KNOTS

AND
LASHINGS
CONTENTS

The Development of Rope, 3

Making Rope, 4
Whipping, 6
Caring for Rope, 7
Bight, Loop, Overhand, 7
End Knots, 9
Knots for Joining, 10
Tying Ropes to Objects, 13
Knots for Loops, 19
Other Useful Knots, 22
Splices, 27
Lashings, 30
Index, 34
Credits, 36
About the E-book Edition, 37
About the E-book Editor, 37

1993 Printing
Copyright 1993
RSVJR
Published by:
TOTEM POLE
SCOUTERS FOUNDATION

2
THE DEVELOPMENT OF ROPE

Fastening things together has always been a part of human knowledge ever since the early
stages of civilization. For the purpose of fastening things, a number of materials have been
used as vines, grass stalks, as well as strips of animal hide and leather thong. Rope probably
developed from the thongs. A single thong was found too weak for some purposes, and so
two or three thongs had to be combined. To twist the leather strips into a solid rope was a
short and natural step.

In modern times, the use of ropes became universal. With the improvement in materials and
methods came improvement in technique of making rope; and the two present methods,
twisting and braiding, slowly evolved. In a twisted rope a few fibers are twisted to the right to
form a yarn, then a few yarns are twisted to the left to form a strand. Three or four strands are
twisted to the right to form a rope. Three ropes are twisted to the left to form a large cable-laid
rope.

The important element in twisted rope is the alternation of directions so that the fibers and
strands pull against each other and overcome their natural tendency to untwist and fray. The
friction of the alternately twisted parts makes a hard compact rope, capable of repelling water
and standing tremendous strains.

The braided type of rope is usually woven by a special braiding machine in much the same
manner as are heavy fabrics. When made this way good cotton rope, such as “spotted cord,"
is smooth, compact, and capable of giving long service before it becomes too soft. Braided
rope is used extensively tor rope spinning.

3
MAKING ROPE

You can make your own rope if you put together any of the machines shown here.

ROPE CRANK

Use 3/4-inch wood for the parts. The hooks

may be made of coat-hanger wire.

Use heavy binder or twine. Tie the end of the

twine to one of the hooks and loop it back and
forth between the hooks and the 6-inch dowel
or pencil. About three strands to each hook will
make a medium-sized rope. The “lay" needs to
be three times the length of what you want the
finished rope to be.

The number of strands will determine the size

of the rope. Note the same number of strands
must be placed on each hook so the finished
rope will be laid evenly.

Insert the crank handle in the cranks and start

rotating it. Hold the strands apart with the rope
wrench until they get fairly tight. Then take hold
of the strands behind the wrench - that is, on
the side away from the machine - and begin
twisting them slowly together as the wrench is
moved forward.

The rope will go into shape itself and remain there, but the wrench should be used to ensure
even twisting and to prevent kinks. The cranks should be turned slowly while the rope is being
formed.

When your rope is complete, take it off the hooks and whip the ends to prevent fraying.

4
 ROPE SPINNER

Tie a loop on each end of a long piece of binder

twine or heavy cord. Attach the twine to the
spinner as shown in the diagram so that you
have three strands. Spin the spinner in a
clockwise direction. When the twine is wound
tight take three of these strands and repeat. A
third person should do this so that the line can
be held stretched out, otherwise it will kink
badly. Spin the spinner counter clockwise until
rope is wound tight. Take rope off the spinner,
whip the ends, and it's ready to use.

SETTING A ROPE

If you are serious about using the rope you make, it should be strained to put the "set" in it.
Take the rope off the machine and tie it between two strong points and put a strain on it.

5
WHIPPING
The ends of every rope should be whipped to keep them from raveling. There are several
methods of doing this. For ropes of polypropylene and other synthetic fiber ropes, whipping
may be done by applying a hot iron or flame to the ends. This fuses the strands. A rule of
thumb is that the length of the whipping should be at least as long as the diameter of the rope.

AMERICAN WHIPPING

You can use any twine for American whipping, although waxed
sail twine or electrician’s twine is best. Begin by laying a loop of
the twine on the end of the rope. Take several turns around the
end of the rope, spiralig away from the end and drawing each turn
tight. When the whipping is as wide as the diameter of the rope,
pull on the end until the loop has disappeared.

SAILMAKER'S WHIPPING

Begin by unlaying (untwisting) the rope 2 inches. Make a bight in

a 3- foot length of twine and place it around one of the strands.
Re-lay the rope. Wind the twine tightly around the rope end for a
sufficient number of turns. Carry the bight originally formed back
over the end of the same strand around which it was laid. Pull
twine ends tight and tie them with square knot between the rope
ends. Trim ends of twine.

ENGLISH WHIPPING

Make twine into a loop and place it at the end of the rope. Wrap
the twine tightly around the rope. When whipping is as wide as
the rope is thick. slip the end through the loop, pull hard, and trim
off the twine.

6
CARING FOR ROPE
A good rope is expensive and should not be handled carelessly. Keep it clean and free of mud
or grease. If it is damp, do not coil or store it until it is thoroughly dried out. Always keep it in a
dry place. It should never be thrown into a corner to tangle and kink. When a job is finished,
the rope should be placed where it will be available instantly, if necessary, and should be
coiled so that it will pay out smoothly when needed.

COILING ROPE

To coil rope, first shake it out in a straight line so

there will be no kinks. Hold the end with one hand.
With your other hand pull in enough rope to make a
loop about 18 inches long. As you place the loop in
your hand, roll the rope a half-turn with your thumb
and forefinger. This will counteract the twist you put
in the rope as you made the loop and will help to
eliminate kinks.

To make it a flat coil (as shown in the drawing), lay the outer circle first and coil in toward the
center in a clockwise direction. Give a half-turn to each coil to eliminate kinks. If your coil is
too loose, you can tighten it by twisting the center with the palm of your hand.

BIGHT, LOOP, OVERHAND

Knots are formed by using the bight-loop-turn-tuck. Even the most complete knot can be
figured out if you remember these terms.

The bight is formed by laying the end of the

rope against the standing part or long end.

Loops, overhand or underhand, are just what

their names say. With these three turns you
can make any sort of knot.

A turn is wrapping the rope around something

and a tuck is to insert the running end or a
bight into a loop.

7
HANSON KNOT

Tie an overhand knot in the standing part of

the rope by making an overhand lop and
pulling the end through the loop.

Bring the end back through the loose overhand

knot as though you were making a slip knot.

Now, bring the end over the standing pan,

under it, and through the overhand knot. Make
a halt hitch by bending the end across the
overhand knot and under itself so that it lies
next to the standing part.

Tighten the overhand knot first and then the

half hitch. To untie, push on the top loop (A)
and pull on the bottom loop (B).

HANSON KNOT
(Variation)

Tie a figure 8 knot exactly like this one with the

overhand loop over the standing part.

Roll the overhand loop on top of the underhand

loop.

Pass the working end under the first two loops

and over the last two as shown by the arrow.

Following the arrow, reach inside the loop just

formed and pull the overhand loop while holding
the running end against the underhand loop (x).
The overhand not will tighten. Then pull the
working end to jam the knot.

To untie, push on the part marked (A) and pull on

the part marked (B).

8
END KNOTS
Knots in this group are most often used to prevent slipping. They may be tied in either the end
or standing part of the rope to check it from sliding through a block, hole, or part of another
knot. They may be used temporarily to stop fraying when a rope is not whipped.

FIGURE EIGHT KNOT

Often used is such places as the end of a string when

tying a package with a slipknot or in the end of a rope
forming a lariat loop.

STEVEDORE’S KNOT

This is the same as the figure eight, except that it has

an extra loop that gives it more bulk at the end of the
rope if that is required.

WALL KNOT

This knot is a firm, round, semi-permanent "stopper"

knot tied with the end strands of a rope. Snug it
carefully so that strands tighten evenly. You can trim
the end or twist them together again and whip the end.

SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT

Begin by tying the wall knot, but before snugging,

carry each end through the bight ahead of it so that
each strand runs under two bights.

9
KNOTS FOR JOINING
These knots are used for tying two rope ends together: sometimes the ends of the same rope;
sometimes the ends of different ropes.

SQUARE KNOT

You can loosen the square knot easily by either

pushing the ends toward the knot or by "upsetting"
the knot by pulling back on one and pulling the other
through the loops.

SURGEON'S KNOT

The surgeon's knot is a square knot with an extra

twist. The purpose of the extra twist is to give added
friction to hold until the second crossing is made.

WEAVER’S KNOT

The weaver’s knot is exactly the same knot as the

sheet bend, but tied in a different manner.

FISHERMAN'S KNOT

The fisherman's knot is used for joining two fine lines

such as fishing leaders. It is simply two overhand
knots. one holding the right-hand line and the other
the left-hand line. Pull each of the two overhand knots
taut separately. Then make the whole knot taut so
that the two overhand knots come together by pulling
on the standing parts of each line.

10
SHEET BEND

The sheet bend is an important knot for joining two

rope ends, especially if the ropes are of different
sizes. Sailors named it in the days of sailing ships
when they would “bend” (tie) the "sheets" (ropes in
the rigging of a ship).

Begin with a bight in the larger rope. Then weave

the end of the smaller rope up through the eye,
around the bight, and back under itself. Snug it
carefully before applying any strain to the knot.

DOUBLE SHEET BEND

When the two ropes being tied together vary

widely in diameter the double sheet bend should
be used. The two loops help to hold the bight in
the larger rope. Consider using this also when the
rope is wet or when using some. of the slicker
synthetic fiber ropes.

SLIPPERY SHEET BEND

The slippery sheet bend is simply an ordinary

sheet bend with a bight left in the smaller rope.
This bight makes it "slipper" because it can be
untied quickly, merely by a tug on the tree end of
the rope. It is a valuable knot for use when you
expect to tie an: untie it often.

11
SINGLE CARRICK BEND

The carrick bend is among the strongest of knots, but

requires that both ends be seized onto the standing pans.
To make the carrick bend, begin by making a bight in the
left- hand rope, then weave the right-hand rope through it
as shown. Finish by seizing the ends of both ropes.

THE HUNTER’S BEND

Only three new knots have been discovered during this

century: the Constrictor knot many years ago, the Tarbuck
knot discovered by Kenneth Tarbuck in 1958, and now
Hunter's bend discovered by Dr. Edward Hunter.

Hunter‘s bend is used to join two ropes. It has a distinct

shape, does not distort, and is very easily untied. It is an
excellent knot for nylon rope. Nylon ropes need
something extra in knots for safety, and the double lock of
Hunter's bend makes it ideal for this.

12
TYING ROPES TO OBJECTS
Knots that are used for attaching ropes to things like poles or rings are called hitches. They
are important in camping and all types of pioneering work.

HALF HITCH

The half hitch is the start of a number of other hitches and

is useful all by itself as a temporary attaching knot. It will
hold against a steady pull on the standing part, especially if
a Stopper knot like the stevedore's knot or figure eight is
put in the end.

TWO HALF HITCHES

This is a reliable and useful knot for attaching a rope to a

pole or boat mooring. As its name suggests, it is two half
hitches, one after the other. To finish, push them together
and snug them by pulling on the standing part.

SLIPPERY HALF HITCH

This is occasionally useful but should be considered

temporary. It is actually only an overhand knot around the
object with the end run back through the knot and left
"slippery." It can be quickly untied by pulling on the free
end. The slippery half hitch can be locked by passing the
end back through the eye and pulling tight.

13
CLOVE HITCH

This is one of the most widely used knots. Because it

passes around an object in only one direction, it puts
very little strain on the rope fibers. Tying it over an
object that is open at one end is done by dropping one
overhand and one underhand loop over the pst and
drawing them together.

CLOVE HITCH OVER BAR

This is the same knot as the clove hitch, but this

method of tying it must be used if the bar is closed at
both ends or it's too high to toss loops over. This hitch
is used in starting and finishing most lashings.

TIMBER HITCH

This is an important hitch, especially for dragging a

heavy object like a log. It will hold firmly so long as
there is a steady pull; slacking and jerking may loosen
it. The timber hitch is also useful in pioneering when
two timbers are "sprung" together.

When it is used for dragging, a simple hitch should be

added near the front end of the object to guide it.

14
RUNGS

Two kinds of hitches which you can use in

keeping the rope tight and firm in lashing
and in securing the wooden rungs of a
rope ladder. Are (1) the Lever Hitch,
otherwise known as the Marline-Spike
Hitch, and (2) the Magnus Hitch.

Study carefully the illustrated steps in

trying these hitches and master them.

Note that the Magnus Hitch is similar to the

Rolling Hitch or Stopper Hitch which is
used to secure small line to a larger line
when the strain is parallel or nearly parallel
to the axis of the larger line.

Rolling Hitch becomes a Magnus Hitch

when used to secured a line to a spar or a
post and bears a strain either parallel or
perpendicular to the spar.

Unlike in the Rolling Hitch, the second turn

in the Magnus Hitch is not usually jammed
inside the first turn and the end is usually
tied to the standing parts or secured with
two half hitches. This kind of knot
resembles the clove hitch and is
sometimes called the Mooring Hitch.
These two hitches have advantages over
each other in their uses.

The Lever or Marline-Spike Hitch is better

used in tightening the wrapping and/or
trapping of a lashing because it can be
instantly tied and instantly released.

The Magnus Hitch on the other hand is

better used for securing the wooden rungs
of a rope ladder because it can better
secure the rungs tightly and firmly.

15
SLIPKNOT

This knot is not as satisfactory as two half

hitches because, unless strain is put on it, it
may slide, especially on a vertical object like
a post. Basically, it is an overhand knot
around the standing part.

It will be more secure if a stopper knot, like a

simple overhand or figure eight, is tied in the
end of the rope.

PIPE HITCH

The pipe hitch is useful for lifting a bar or

post straight up, as in pulling it out of the
ground. To tie it, take four or five turns around
the post. Cross the end over and finish with
two half hitches around the standing part. An
added hitch is usually taken higher on the
post with the standing part to keep the post
vertical.

ANCHOR BEND

This hitch, which is also called the

fisherman's bend, is one of the strongest
hitches. Begin by taking two turns around the
post or ring. Then bring the end over the
standing part and through the loop. Finish as
in two half hitches. This can be made more
secure by seizing the ends of the rope.

16
TAUT-LINE HITCH

Can be tied on a line that is taut. When used for

tying a tent guy line. you can tighten or loosen the
line by pushing the hitch up or down on the
standing part.

Pass rope around the peg. Then bring the end

under and over the standing part and twice
through the loop formed. Again, bring the rope
end under, over, and through the loop formed.
Tighten hitch around the standing part.

MASTHEAD KNOT

The masthead knot is used principally for

decorative purposes today. Originally, its purpose
was to place a strap around a temporary
masthead to which other straps could be made
fast. This knot is started with three overlapping
hitches. The inner bights of the two outer hitches
are led in regular sequence over and under to the
opposite sides of the knot, while the upper bight
of the center hitch is merely extended.

17
HITCHING TIE

This is a common method of hitching animals.

Notice that it is a type of slipped hitch.

STOPPER HITCH

This is formed the same way as the taut-line

hitch except that turns 1 and 2 are reversed.

DRAW HITCH OR
HIGHWAY-MAN’S HITCH

This is a useful knot when going down and you

want to use the rope again. Simply pull the
loose side and you will retrieve the rope. Be
careful enough to check first the knot by pulling
the load side before using it. Failure in tying
this knot will result in accident.

SINGLE BLACKWALL

This is a simple halt hitch over a hook. It will

hold only when subjected to a constant strain.
A stopper knot in the end will make it a little
more secure, but human life should never be
entrusted to it.

DOUBLE BLACKWALL

This hitch is somewhat safer than the single

blackwall, but it, too, should be considered
temporary. For a stronger, more permanent tie
over a hook, use the bowline.

18
 CAT'S-PAW

The cat's-paw is a better way to attach a rope to

a hook than either of the blackwalls. It will not
slip and needs no constant strain to hold. For two
loops and turn them inward one or two complete
turns. Hang these "eyes" over the hook or other
subject.

KNOTS FOR LOOPS

These knots are used to hold loops - either permanent or "running" like a cowboy's lariat. The
bowline and its variations are important for rescue work and on board ship where they have
scores of uses.

BOWLINE

The bowline has been called the king of knots.

It will never slip or jam it properly made and,
thus, is excellent for tying around a person in a
rescue. Begin by forming an over- hand loop in
the standing part. Then take the tree end up
through the eye. around the standing part and
back where it came from.

19
FRENCH BOWLINE

This is a double bowline because it provides two

nonslip loops (which can be of different sizes).
With it a person can sit in one loop and have the
second loop as a back support, leaving his hands
free. It is excellent for rescue work or for seamen
working over the side of a ship. Begin by making
an overhand loop as in the regular bowline. But
then pass the end through the “eye” twice before
bringing it back around the standing part and
through the original eye. The bottom drawing
shows details of the final knot.

BOWLINE ON A BIGHT

Like the French bowline, the bowline on a bight

forms two loops, but they may be of the same size
or differ. Start by making a good-size bight and an
overhand loop as shown in figure A, and bring the
end up through the loop. Open the end loop and
bring it down and around the entire knot as in
figure B. Set the knot securely before putting
weight on it as in figure C.

20
MAN-HARNESS KNOT

The principal use of this knot is to make a loop

in the middle of a rope that is being used for
hauling or climbing. A man can then use the
loop as a harness over his shoulder so he can
put his full weight to its best use. Form an
underhand loop as shown at top. Grasp the
loop at A and lay it over the part of rope shown
by the arrow. The result will be as shown in the
middle drawing. Now grasp the rope at B and
draw it up under and over as shown at bottom.
This forms the bight which becomes the loop
for your shoulder. Draw the knot tight before
using it.

ALPINE BUTTERFLY

This is the best knot for making a nonslip loop

in the bight of a rope. Simply make a bight of
the required size with two small overhand
loops turned inward at the top. Overlap the
loops and bring the bight up and through from
front to back. Adjust as necessary.

21
FIGURE EIGHT ON A BIGHT

Much used by mountain climbers, it makes a nonslip

loop in any pan of the rope. It can be tied quickly and
easily in difficult situations. This can be another loop
end knot that can be used to form a running loop.

ROVER NOOSE

The same use as a man harness knot.

OTHER USEFUL KNOTS

MILLER’S KNOT

This is a close relative of the clove hitch and is used

in tying sacks with heavy string or cord. Note that the
first turn around the sack leads over the forefinger
and the others pass under all fingers. In the middle
drawing, the forefinger A is about to draw the cord
end B under C to complete the knot. The final result
is shown in the third drawing.

22
STRANGLE KNOT

The strangle knot has many applications. For

example, it may be used as an emergency
whipping, or in place of the miller's knot. In
the strangle knot, the important point is to
cross the second turn over the first and to
pull the end under both turns.

PACKER'S KNOT

The packer's knot is one of the best ways to

begin to wrap a package. It is simply a figure
eight knot tied around the standing part. In
wrapping packages or bundles, make the
first turn by passing the loop of the packer’s
knot around the package and pulling it tight.

STRAP KNOT

This knot is designed, especially, for tying flat

leather straps. It is merely two interlocked
loops. They should be pushed together. With
a strap knot, leather belts or straps can be
linked together to form an emergency rope.

23
SHEEPSHANK

This knot is used to shorten a

rope that is fastened at both
ends. Take up the slack as
shown in figure 1. Make an
underhand loop as shown at Bin
figure 2 and slide it over the B1
bight and pull tight. Do the same
to the other end to complete the
knot. The sheepshank is only a
temporary knot as it stands. But it
can be made more permanent by
adding a second halt hitch to
each end as shown in figure 3.

TOGGLES

A toggle is a small piece of wood

or metal often used to lock a knot
that may have to be loosened
quickly or to help it hold better.
Two examples are shown. At left
is one end of a sheepshank with
a toggle inserted to make sure
the knot does not slip. At right is
a lark's-head with toggle.
Removing the toggle releases
the hitch.

24
BELAYING

This is a sailor’s term for attaching a rope to a cleat.

Begin with a turn as shown in the drawing. Then
make one or two figure eight movements as in the
second drawing. Finish with a hitch (underhand
loop) pulled snug, unless the rope needs to be
loosened quickly.

MOORING HITCH

This is a good knot to moor a boat because it can

be released quickly. It also holds fast. It is difficult to
tie under tension. The mooring hitch is a slippery
knot that gives a secure hitch.

25
DIAMOND HITCH

The diamond hitch, long used by prospectors, traders, and trappers in loading packhorses, is
also a handy way to lash your pack to a six-point frame. Its advantage is that a pull on any
section of the line makes every other section tighter. Begin by tying one rope end at point 1,
using a clove hitch. Loop the rope over points 2 and 3 as shown in A. Before pulling the line
through the bight between points 1 and 2. twist the other center strands two or three times as
shown. Then loop the rope over the other points in numerical order as shown. When the hitch
is nearly complete, pull the rope to tighten all sides and tie it at point 1 (over the starting hitch)
with a hitch or knot. Drawing D shows the diamond hitch completed around a pack. Note the
"diamond" in the center.

26
SPLICES
Splices join ropes permanently and leave the rope almost as strong as it was originally. The
strongest of them is the short splice. It makes a small bump in the rope, however, so it will not
pass over a block. The long splice is a little less strong, but with it the rope remains the same
diameter. The eye splice and back splice have special purposes.

SHORT SPLICE

Begin by unlaying (untwisting) the ropes a few

turns. If the rope is large, make temporary
whippings on the ends of the strands.

A) Alternate the strands of the two ropes.

B) Tie strands down to prevent more

unlaying.

C) Tuck strand 1 over an opposing strand

and under the next strand.

D) Tuck olstrand2goes over strand 5,

under the second, and out between the
second and third.

E) Repeat operation with strands 1 and 3

from same rope end.

F) Remove tie and repeat operation on

other rope end. Make two or more
tucks for each strand. Then roll the
tucks and cut oft ends. You can smooth
the splice by rolling it under your foot
on the floor.

27
LONG SPLICE

A) Unlay each rope end about 15 turns. Place the

two rope ends together, alternating strands of
each end.

B) Using opposite pairs, unlay one end 4 and fill its

place with the "partner" strand 2. Repeat
operation exactly with another pair of strands 1
and 6 in opposite direction.

C) Trim the longer strand 4 and tie each pair of

opposing strands 2 and 4 with an overhand
knot, tucking each strand twice. The tuck goes
over one strand, under the second, and out
between the second and third. Strands 3 and 5
are simply tied with an overhand knot. Strands 1
and 6 are halved, and opposite strands tied with
an overhand before tucking.

D) Roll and pound all tucks into the rope and then
clip the individual strand ends.

BACKSPLICE

The backsplice is a method of preventing fraying or

raveling in the end of a rope. It is more durable and
permanent than whipping.

Begin by unlaying the rope and making a crown knot

as shown in drawings A, B, C. The ends are then
tucked with the over-and-under movement. See
drawing D.

Finish by trimming the ends and smoothing the splice

by rolling it on the floor with your foot.

28
EYE SPLICE

The eye splice is the strongest type of rope loop.

Like the short splice, it is woven "one over, one
under." Strands may be loosened for tucking by
twisting the rope in the direction opposite the lay.

Begin by unlaying the end tour or five turns.

A) Tuck strand 2 over strand c, under b, and

then out between strands a and b.

B) Tuck strand 1 once over strand to and

under a.

C) Turn rope over and tuck strand 3 under

strand c and over next strand.

D) Tuck each strand in turn over and under

tor several tucks.

RACKING SEIZING

Racking seizing is used to lash together two

parallel ropes. Start with a timber hitch “in the
seizing material and then wrap it around the
ropes in a figure eight pattern as shown in figure
1. Make as many turns as necessary. When this
is done, bring the turns together as shown in
figure 2. Now begin winding round and round
back toward the eye splice, laying the lashing
into the spaces between the turns of the first set
as indicated by the numbers in figure 2. The
seizing may be finished by making frapping turns
and fastening with a clove hitch.

29
LASHINGS

For lashing or binding together timbers with rope, it's important to use ropes of correct
thickness and length. For staves or spars up to t-1/4 inches in diameter, use tough twisted or
braided line. For spars up to 3 inches in diameter, you need 1/4- inch rope. For spars over 3
inches in diameter use 3/8-inch rope. As to length, figure 1 yard of rope for each inch of the
combined diameter of the spars. For example, when you are lashing 3-inch and 4~inch
timbers together, you will need 7 yards of rope.

Frapping turns are used to draw the lashing tight.

SHEAR LASHING

The shear lashing is used for forming shear legs

of timbers in pioneering bridges. Begin by laying
the spars parallel to one another. Tie a clove hitch
around one spar. Then bind the two timbers
together by laying seven or eight turns around
them, loosely, one turn beside the other. Then
make two frapping turns around the lashing
between the spars. Fasten the rope end with a
clove hitch around the second timber. Open out
the two timbers to form shear legs.

Sometimes shear lashings are used to lash two

spars together to keep them parallel (to extend a
flagpole, for example). In that case, do not use
trapping turns.

Sometimes, in this type of lashing it is necessary

to put a long, tapered wedge behind the lashing
to tighten it.

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DIAGONAL LASHING

A diagonal lashing is used to "spring" two

spars together; that is, to lash together two
spars that do not touch where they cross.
Begin with a timber hitch around both spars.
Tighten it to draw the two close together.
Three or four turns are then taken around
one fork; three or four more. around the
other. The turns should be beside each
other, not on top of each other. Then take
two trapping turns about the lashing at the
point where the spars cross. Finish with a
clove hitch around either spar.

SQUARE LASHING

A square lashing is used whenever spars

cross at an angle, touching each other
where they cross. Start with a clove hitch
around the up- right, directly below where
the cross- piece will be. After tightening it,
twist the free rope end and the standing part
around each other to hold the loose end.
Now wrap the rope behind the upright, down
in front of the crosspiece, and around behind
the upright. Do this three times, keeping
outside the previous turns on the crosspiece
and inside them on the upright. Then make
two trapping turns between the timbers and
strain them tightly. The lashing is then
finished with a clove hitch on the crosspiece.
Make all turns as tight and secure as
possible.

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TRIPOD LASHING

The method for forming a tripod is similar to

shear lashing. Begin by laying the three spars
on the ground pointing in alternate directions.
Make a clove hitch or timber hitch around one
of the outside spars. Now take seven or eight
loose lashing turns around all three spars and
two trapping turns in the spaces between.
Finish with a clove hitch on the center spar and
hoist the tripod into place.

TRIPOD LASHING FOR

LIGHT STRUCTURES

Hold spars as in drawing. Place rope end in

groove between spars. Wrap lightly a few times
around spars and bring rope end up in groove.
Finish with square knot and open tripod.

TRIPOD LASHING FOR

LARGE STRUCTURES

Lay the three spars on the ground pointing in

alternate directions. Starting at the middle of
the rope, weave around the spars a few times
with each rope end. Tighten with two trapping
turns in the spaces between spars. Finish with
square knot and swing middle spar over.

It may take a little practice to judge how tight

the wraps should be made and still allow for
the tripod to set up.

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JAPANESE SQUARE LASHING

Begin by using the rope doubled. Loop the bight

around one spar and wrap just like the regular square
lash with rope doubled. When trapping, split the
ropes apart and trap in opposite direction with each.
Finish with square knot.

FILIPINO LASHING

Begin by using the rope doubled. Loop the bight

around the two spars and insert the running end into
the bight and wrap around the two spars just like the
regular diagonal lashing. Finish by splitting the two
ropes and wrap around one spar in opposite direction
and finish with square knot.

JAPANESE SQUARE
LASHING MARK II

Begin as with the Japanese lashing, but instead of

using two ropes together, use each one separately
and wrap in opposite directions. Frap using ropes in
opposite directions and finish with a square knot.

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INDEX
Alpine Butterfly, 21
American Whipping, 6
Anchor Bend, 16
Backsplice, 28
Belaying, 25
Bight, 7
Bowline, 19
Bowline on a Bight, 20
Caring for Rope, 7
Carrick Bend, Single, 12
Cat's Paw, 9
Clove Hitch, 14
Clove Hitch Over Bar, 14
Coiling Rope, 7
Development of Rope, The, 5
Diagonal Lashing, 31
Diamond Hitch, 26
Double Blackwall, 18
Double Sheet Bend, 11
Draw Hitch, 18
End Knots, 9
English Whipping, 6
Eye Splice, 29
Figure Eight Knot, 9
Figure Eight on a Bight, 22
Filipino Lashing, 33
Fisherman's Knot, 10
French Bowline, 20
Half Hitch, 13
Hanson Knot, 8
Highwayman's Hitch, 18
Hitching Tie, 18
Hunter's Bend, The, 12
Japanese Square Lashing, 33
Japanese Square Lashing Mark II, 33
Knots for Joining, 10
Knots for Loops, 19
Lashings, 30
Long Splice, 28
Loop, 7
Making Rope, 6
Man-Harness Knot, 21
Masthead Knot, 17
Miller's Knot, 22
Mooring Hitch, 25
Other Useful Knots, 22
Overhead Knot, 7
Packer's Knot, 23
Pipe Hitch, 16
Racking Seizing, 29
Rope Crank, 4
34
Rope Spinner, 5
Rover Noose, 22
Rungs, 15
Sailmaker's Whipping, 6
Setting a Rope, 5
Shear Lashing, 30
Sheepshank, 24
Sheet Bend, 11
Short Splice, 27
Single Backwall, 18
Single Matthew Walker Knot, 9
Slipknot, 16
Slippery Half Hitch, 13
Slippery Sheet Bend, 11
Splices, 27
Square Knot, 10
Square Lashing, 31
Stevedore's Knot, 9
Stopper Hitch, 18
Strangle Knot, 23
Strap Knot, 23
Surgeon's Knot, 10
Taut-Line Hitch, 17
Timber Hitch, 14
Toggles, 24
Tripod Lashing, 32
Tripod Lashing for Large Structures, 32
Tripod Lashing for Light Structures, 32
Two Half Hitches, 13
Tying Ropes to Objects, 13
Wall Knot, 9
Weaver's Knot, 10
Whipping, 6

CREDITS
KNOTS, BSA
BSP BOOK VOL. 1 & 2
FUN WITH ROPES & SPARS, John Thurman

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