Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge

Vol. 13 (3), July 2014, pp. 596-599

Study of Traditional handloom weaving by the Kom tribe of Manipur

Reshma Khatoon1, *AK Das2, BK Dutta2 & PK Singh3
1
Lilong Haoreibi College, Lilong, Manipur-795130, India; 2 Ethnobotany & Conservation of Medicinal Plants Laboratory,
Department of Ecology and Environmental Science, Assam University, Silchar-788011
3
Department of Life Science, Manipur University, Canchipur-795003, Imphal, Manipur
E- mail: [email protected]

Received 03.05.13, revised 05.12.13

In the present paper traditional weaving and related knowledge system of purposively selected villages are discussed, and
in this connection eight plant species are reported, which are used in weaving handloom. Kom tribe of Manipur has very rich
traditional knowledge of crafts. These are the living testimonies of their traditional knowledge and aesthetic value, which
they have inherited from their predecessors. The art of handloom weaving and the techniques they use are indeed admirable.
But the Kom like any other tribal society has also been subjected to the challenges of modernization and open market. As a
result many of their indigenous artistic works in making tools are now in danger. Therefore, every effort must be made to
preserve this traditional knowledge so that they can carry on with their aesthetic beauty & knowledge into prosperity.

Keywords: Kom tribe, Handloom, Weaving, Manipur

IPC Int. Cl.8: D03J 3/00, D03, D01, A61K 36/00

Clothing is the basic need of the mankind and as such Senapati, Chandel and Imphal East. According to the
that leads to the weaving of textiles since time myth of their origin, their forefathers are believed to
immemorial. The woven textile in varied design thus have come out through Khul (Cave). Karunpa came
came to replace the clothes made of bark of a tree and out wearing a stripped cloth made friend with a tiger
the skin of the animal, which was the symbol of as the clothes resembled its skin and killed the tiger.
wandering men for a considerable period of time in The Kom people have traditionally lived in forest and
the history of mankind. Depending on the as such forest have been their lifeline since time
environmental condition man has been concerned immemorial. They are mostly dependent on the forest
with the making of utilitarian fabrics since a long time resources and conserve their plant diversity by
and also they came to discover that textile offered a developing their own culture, custom, folktales, food,
good medium for expression of aesthetic genius. medicine and number of other plants for multifarious
In North Eastern states of India, Manipur enjoy a uses. They have a very rich heritage and culture.
place for its rich heritage of artistic handloom This rich culture is inherited from their forefather
products. There is an immensely rich tribal culture in and this has been passed from generation to another
this region. The beautiful hand woven products of this through oral traditions as well as day today traditional
region reflect on the skills of individual weaver artisans. practices, customs, religious beliefs, log drums, feast
The richness in material culture is also reflected in their of merit, food and drink, ornaments, agricultural
colourful & attractive dress and costume 1-4. implements, rituals and ceremonies, weaving,
Kom is one of 38 recognized scheduled tribes of housing, clothing, rearing of domestic animals, etc.
Manipur (according to Constitution (Scheduled tribes) Traditionally, many of these items have been made
order (Amendment) Act, 2011). They belong to the from plant materials.This vast knowledge is still in
Chin Kuki, one of the major two tribal groups of practice and of great traditional value.
Manipur, i.e. Naga & Kuki. They are found
distributed in 4 districts of the state - Churachandpur, Materials and methods
Ethnobotanical survey was carried out during
—————— 2010-2012 at the selected villages (05 Nos.) namely
*Corresponding author Thayong, Sagang, Khoirentak, Kakching mantak and
 KHATOON et al.: TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFTS AND HANDLOOMS IN MANIPUR 597

Sinam kom of Imphal East, Churachandpur, Chandel weaving, the loom used is a simple tension loom. A
and Senapati district. Data were collected through strong bamboo beam is tied between two house posts
direct interviews, observation and participation. Total and from each end of this is suspended a loop of rope
sample of 40 (10 weavers from each village) were made of Pterygota alata (Roxb.) R.Br. of about
selected following the standard methodology with 8 inches long. A wood (Mesua ferra L.) of about
slight modification5-6. Information regarding weavers, 36 inches long is hung through these two loops of
weaving process with regard to looms, yarn, motifs rope to form bar of the loom. The weaver sits on the
and colour used in handwoven textile were collected. ground at a suitable distance from the bar of the loom
Majority of weavers interviewed were the age group according to the length of the cloth required. The
of 26-45 yrs. However persons mostly belonging to weaver then passes behind her back a backstrap
the age group above 50 have accurate information (Kongnanthrui) weaving Pumbeng (Fig. 2) made from
regarding their age old traditions. Participation in hide of a cow. This belt is attached by cane & tied
their feasts, festivals other social events, etc. was of into the grooves at each end of a round stick-Taru
great help in collecting the information. (Tension rod), which is made of Bamboo. Other tools
and equipments required for weaving are:
Study area Tem (Sword) is a flat piece of Mesua ferra L.
Kom tribe is found scattered in 4 district out of the placed between the warp threads to hold them in place
9 districts of Manipur. The areas are Churanchandpur to place the shuttles through (Fig. 3).
district, Chandel district, Senapati district, Imphal Serkhutim with the help of Serkhutim (Porcupine
East district. The Kom tribe mostly occupied the quil) if weft become unven it can be loosened or
foothills or slope of the hills. In the entire state, there placed in position (Fig. 4).
are 44 villages of which 4 are situated in Chandel, 24 Shuttles (Kothai) which is a piece of thin bamboo
in Churanchandpur and 13 in Senapati and 3 in stick about 1 and ½ feet long with an opening on one
Imphal east district respectively. Some sample end and a hole made in the middle (Fig. 5).
villages in each district was studied minutely to know
Tukdak curved like teeth made from Mesua ferra
and record the ethnobotanical knowledge (handloom
L. of about 3ft in length.
weaving) with special reference to Kom tribe.
Heddle hold in place every alternate thread of the warp
Results so that the Tem may be passed between tension rod.
The Kom especially the women traditionally make Tako, Trai are the split bamboo with two pointed
their own clothes. Living in remote areas they are ends placed parallel to Tem to keep already woven
dependent on traditional resources and have part even.
knowledge and skill in weaving. Loin and looms are As the width achieved on the loin loom is narrow,
available in every household. Weaving among women two straps are woven separately and joined together to
is a part of household duties. In addition to obtain the desired width. The main body of the cloth
agricultural products they plant cotton for weaving is patterned with geometric design. The design also
cloths in their jhum fields. It is brought home and consists of tiger, python pattern. Black shawl
dried in the sun. The dried cotton seeds are cleaned in (Ponthle) (Fig. 6) with red and yellow border
a wooden gin. The cotton gins made of Gmelina embroideries became the style mark of the Kom tribe.
arborea Roxb. and gleaned rollers out of Quercus A man with a respectable position in Kom society
serrata Thunb. After separation from the seeds it is wears Paspan the cloth bearing the skin mark of
teased with Patsai- a bamboo bow (Dendrocalamus python God. Kom people have a great belief in
giganteus Munro) to make it soft and fluffy. The Pathen. The art of weaving to have been followed
cotton is rolled and are ready for spinning. The from Chongnu who fell in love with a python God
spinning wheel (Ramhui) (Fig. 1) is made from Mesua (Pathen) still continues in lion looms. Before she
ferra L. and cane, actual spindle is made from the formed in the realm of mortality she copied the marks
Iron and the stem from Callicarpa arborea Roxb. of her lovers’ body in her loom. Variation of cultural
Threads thus, obtained are originally dyed from plant and traditional important dresses are weaved by
sources, i.e. Mallotus phillippensis Muell.- Arg., Kom women. Pasepun is Koms handwoven extraweft
Mahonia manipurensis Takeda. The thread having design sarong. Most of the design are denoting python
been wound into ball is ready for weaving. For marks, spears, animals used in extraweft design.
598 INDIAN J TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE, VOL. 13, NO. 3, JULY 2014

Fig. 1-6—Indigenous handloom weaving of the Kom tribe

Table 1—Plant species used by Kom tribe in weaving

Name of species Local name Mode of uses
Callicarpa arborea Roxb.(Verbenaceae) Mondol Piece of this wood is used in making spindle of spinning wheel
Dendrocalamus giganteus Munro Unan Used in making Patsai- a bamboo bow to tease the cotton to make it soft
(Poaceae) and fluffy.
Gmelina arborea Roxb. (Verbenaceae) Kwang Used in making wooden gin for cleaning dried cotton seed.
Mahonia manipurensis Takeda U-napu As a dyeing agents for thread.
(Berberidaceae)
Mallotus phillippensis Muell.-Arg. Ureirom laba As dyeing agents for thread.
(Euphorbiaceae)
Mesua ferra L. (Clusiaceae) Khersai Wheel of the spinning machine is made from this wood; also a piece of
the wood hung between lopes of ropes acts as bar of the loom.
Quercus serrata Roxb. (Lauraceae) Sasho As gleaned rollers to make thread from cotton.
Pterygota alata (Roxb.) R.Br. Paiya Used as rope for binding bamboo beam in a weaving loom.
(Sterculariaceae)

Pumbeng is the traditional lower garment having they have a cultural significance in their weaving.
striped pattern over the body with the two parallel Every component of handloom is made of different
strips of geometric design. Pumbang is the traditional plant resources. There are eight plant species which
shawl used by the men. The lower borders are are used in weaving handloom (Table 1). There has
extended to a frill as décor. been little change in the existing weaving tools as
compared to earlier days. They still use bamboo, cane,
Discussion wooden spools, etc. Originally, they used natural dye
It is true that handloom weaving play a very but nowadays they have switched over to synthetic
important role in the social and economic life of the dye available in the market. Though men do not take
Kom tribe throughout the ages. Apart from part in weaving they use Korcham (Dao), roam in the
agriculture, weaving provide highest employment to dense forest to pick up and choose the supplest of
the Kom people. Although the Kom people have cane, choicest of bamboo and hardness of wood to
distinctive clothes of their own. They do not just make lion loom tools for their women. The use of
create something individualistically as they weave but these vanishing eco-friendly and indigenous
 KHATOON et al.: TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFTS AND HANDLOOMS IN MANIPUR 599

household artifacts could be revived by innovative funding for making handloom of this community
funding. Weaving on the lion loom is an extremely viable, verify, modify and scientifically validate of
slow and highly time consuming process but its these practices for their wider used and application.
continuation in hilly areas has certainly got a
significant place in building up their internal Conclusion
economy. With the exposure to the outside world and Handloom weaving is the most culturally and
the assistance given by the weaving section of the traditionally practiced industry in Manipur. Knowledge
government industries, a handful of persons have of traditional practices provides valuable inputs to
started using the fly shuttle loom that gave a great make efficient use of these industries incorporating
boost to the economy of the self employed persons of plant species for sustainable development. Though
the Kom tribe. among the Kom weaving is one of the traditional
sources of income and livelihood but younger
Traditional significance of the study and some generation are showing less interest in weaving to
constructive recommendations continue such an important practice. This is due to the
The study has been taken up on a priority basis impact of modernization. Effort should be made that
keeping in mind the vanishing traditional knowledge the traditional and culturally important heritage of
of the tribal with special reference to Kom tribe. Such women that are at risk and eroding should not wither
study will be helpful in creating awareness among the away due to the effect of modernization on their
tribal. The handloom products are mainly confined to culture. The study has been taken up to conserve and
the local markets due to the fact that most of these are preserve the traditional craft and cultures of the
cultural-specific items suitable for local use only. Kom tribe of Manipur at large.
Besides purchase by local consumers, a part of the
products reaching local market are also bought by Acknowledgement
traders and middlemen who resell the products in The authors are thankful to Kom Headman and the
other markets. Since, the weavers have no marketing Community to share their valuable knowledge and for
organization of their own, they are often forced to sell cooperation and for sharing their knowledge of weaving.
their products in a buyers market. The profit margin
thus is very low, but they cannot withhold sale since References
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