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GREAT BRITAIN
 Ion."WI froni Terro 12 19- 1*"W. from Pari*

RAILWAY MAP
of

WoSibts DpbesCendl.E-rtabV l.etp:

 GREAT BRITAIN

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

BY

K. BAEDEKER

With 15 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama

SECOND EDITION
Revised and Augmented

LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER

1890

All righU reserved.

•Go, little book, find send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all thatthee will read or hear,
Where thou artwrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
 ;

PREFACE.

J_ he Handbook to Great Britain, which was published in

response to repeated requests from English and American
tourists, and now appears in a second edition, is intended to
help the traveller in planning his tour and disposing of his
time to the best advantage, and thus to enable him the more
thoroughly to enjoy and appreciate the objects of interest he
meets with. The writer is Mr. J. F. Muirhead, M. A., who has
for several years taken part in the preparation of the English
editions of Baedeker's Handbooks, and has personally visited
the greater part of the districts described.
No one is better aware than the Editor himself of the im-
perfections almost inseparable from the early editions of a
guide-book. For the improvement of this work, however, he
confidently and gratefully looks forward to a continuance of
those valuable corrections and suggestions with which trav-
ellers have long been in the habit of favouring him. Hotel-
bills, with annotations showing the traveller's opinion as to
his treatment and accommodation, are particularly useful.
The second edition of the Handbook to Great Britain has
been carefully revised and brought down to date. The section
devoted to Scotland has, in particular, been considerably ex-
tended and improved, but it is still so condensed as to form
merely a stop-gap for the special Scottish volume which the
Editor hopes to publish on some future occasion. A Hand-
book to Ireland is also contemplated.
In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re-
ceived most material aid from numerous English friends. In
particular he cannot refrain from expressing his acknow-
ledgments to the Deans of the English and Welsh cathe-
drals to several resident members of the Universities of Ox-
;

ford and Cambridge to Professor Kirkpatrick of Edinburgh

;

to the Rev. Robert Gwynne, B.A.; to the Rev. W. S. Lach-

Szyrma (for data on Cornwall) to Professor Tout of Man-
;

chester; to Professor Campbell Brown of Liverpool; to the

superior officials of most of the leading Railway Companies;
and to Messrs. Baddeley and Ward, whose 'Thorough Guides'
may be recommended to those in search of more detailed in-
formation regarding any particular district. The Introductory
V1 PREFACE.

Sketch of Architecture in England, from the pen of Professor

Edward A. Freeman, will also materially enhance the value
of the Handbook.
On the Maps and Plans, the number of which has been
considerably increased in this edition, the Editor has bestow-
ed special care, and he believes that they will often render
material service to the traveller, and enable him at a glance
to ascertain his bearings and select the best routes.
Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to enumerate, not
only the first-class hotels, but others also of more modest
pretensions, which may be safely selected by the 'voyageur
en garcon', with little sacrifice of comfort and great saving
of expenditure. Although changes frequently take place,
and prices generally have an upward tendency, the average
charges stated in the Handbook will enable the traveller to
form a fair estimate of his expenditure. The value of the
asterisks, which are used as marks of commendation is re-
,

lative only; those prefixed to town-hotels and village-inns

signifying respectively that the hoirses are good of their kind.
To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy
towards travellers forms the sole passport to his commen-
dation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly
excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned
against persons representing themselves as agents for Bae-
deker's Handbooks.
 CONTENTS.
Pa^e
I. Money. Travelling Expenses. Passports. Custom
House. Time xvii
II. Routes to and from England xviii
III. Railways, Coaches, and Steamboats x\
IV. Plan of Tour. Excursions on Foot \xii
V. Hotels xxii
VI. Sports and Pastimes x\iv
VII. Outline of English History xxvi
VIII. "Wales and the Welsh Language xxx
IX. Bibliography xxxi
Historical Sketch of Architecture in England , by
Edward A. Freeman xxxiii
Ancient Monuments, by General Pitt Rivers .... lxii

Route Page
1. London 1
2. From London to Dover 12
a. South Eastern Railway via Tunbridge and Folkestone 12
Pensburgt Place. From Ashford to Canterbury ... 13
Hythe 14
b. London, Chatham, and Dover Railway via Canter-
bury IB
Gadshill. Cobham Hall 20. 21
From Faversbam to Margate and Ruinsgate 22
From Ramsgate to Deal 24
3. From London to Maidstone 32
4. From London to Hastings 36
Bodiam Castle 38
Normanburst 40
From Hastings to Rye and Ashfurd . . 42
5. From London to Eastbourne. Newhaven ...."... 43
From Lewes to Newhaven 43
6. From London to Brighton 44
From Merstham to Chipstead and to Reigate .... 46
Excursions from Brighton. The Devil's Dyke .... 51
From Brighton to Hastings 5'J

7. From Brighton to Chichester and Portsmouth 52

Arundel Castle 53
Goodwood 56
Porchester. From Portsmouth to Southampton .... 58
8. From London to Dorking and Guildford 59
From Dorking to Guildford via Leith Hill 61
St. Martha's Church 62
Environs of Guildford 63
9. From London to Portsmouth 64
From Haslemere to the Hindhead 65
From the Hindhead to Farnbam 66
VU1 CONTENTS.
Route Tage
10. Isle of Wight 67
From Yarmouth to Southampton 73
From Cowes to Ryde and Portsmouth 75
11. From London to Winchester and Southampton. New
Forest 75
Aldershot. Farnham 75
Strathfleldsaye. Silcbester 76
Hursley. Otterbourne 80
From Southampton to Salisbury 82
Beaulieu Abbey 84
12. The Channel Islands 84
13. From Southampton to Bournemouth, Dorchester, and
Weymouth 95
Lyinington ..." 95
Corfe Castle. Swanage. Purbeck Island 97
Portland Island 98
14. From London to Salisbury and Exeter 98
Old Sarum. Stonehenge 101
Wilton. Longford Castle 101
Fonthill Abbey. Shaftesbury 102
Lyme Regis. Charmout.h 102
From Exeter to Dartmoor 105
From Exeter to Exmouth 105
From Exeter to Barnstaple 105
15. From London to Bath and Bristol 106
From Reading to Bath via Devizes and Bradford-on-Avon 10G
The Ridgeway. The Blowing Stone 107
From Swindon to Marlborough and Savernake .... 108
Avebury Circle. Silbury Hill. Bowood It 8
From Bath to Wells, to Gloucester, and to Templeombe 112
From Bath to Salisbury 113
From Bristol to Portishead and to Avonmouth . . . 121
From Bristol to Severn Tunnel Junction 121
From Bristol to Frome and to Gloucester 121
16. From Bristol to Exeter. Wells 122
Clevedon 122
From Yatton to Wells 122
Glastonbury 126
Sedgemoor. Nether Stowey.
From Taunton to Minehead
tyuantock Hills .... 127
128
From Taunton to Barnstaple 128
17. From Exeter to Plymouth 129
a. Great Western Railway 129
From Newton Abbot to Moreton Hampstead .... 130
From Newton Abbot to Torquay and Dartmouth . . . 130
Kent's Cavern. Anstey's Cove. Babbacombe. Compton
Castle 132
From Dartmouth up the Dart to Totnes. Kingsbridge 133
Berry Pomeroy Castle 134
From Totnes to Ashburton 134
1). South Western Railway 135
From Okebampton to Holsworthy 135
From Lidford to Launce.ston 135
From Lidford to Plymouth by Great Western Railway 136
From Yelverton to Princetown 136
Dartmoor Forest. Chagford 137,13s
Excursions from Plymouth 141-143
 CONTENTS. 1X

Route Page
18. From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance. Falmouth. . . 143
Looe. Polperro. St. Neot's. Dozmare Pool .... 144
From Par to New ^uay. Fowey 144,145
From Truro to Falmouth 145
From Falmouth to Helston 140
The Lizard 147
St. lvea 14S
From Penzance to Lamorna and the Lugan Rock . . . 150
From Penzance to St. Buryan and the Logan Rock . . 150
From Penzance to the Land's End 151
From Penzance to St. Just 152
From Penzance to St. Ives 152
The Scilly isles 152
19. From New Uuay t0 Bideford 153
Padstow 153
Morwenstow 156
Lundy
Harlland. 159
Westward Ho. Appledore. Torrington 1W)
20. From Bideford to Barnstaple and lllracombe 1B0
From Jlfracombe to Lee and Morthoe 162
21. From Ilfracombe to Lynton (Lynmouth) and Mmehead . 163
a. By Koad 163
Dunkery Beacon . . . • 164
b. By the Coast 165
From Lynmouth toWatersmeet, Uockford, and theDoone
Valley 166
Simonsbath 160
22. From London to Gloucester and Hereford. Valley of the
Wye 169
From Kemble to Cirencester and to Tetbury .... 170
Raglan Castle. Usk 170
Caldicot Castle. Forest of Dean 177
From Hereford to Shrewsbury ISO
23. From Bristol to Gloucester, Cheltenham, Worcester,
Birmingham, and Derby 181
Cotswold Hills. Tewkesbury 102
From Worcester to Oxford Is7
Tutbury 1^«
24. From Worcester to Hereford and Newport 189
Worcester Beacon. Eastnor Park 190
From Ledbury to Gloucester 190
Sugarloaf. Blorenge. Crickhowell 191
25. From Gloucester to Cardiff, Swansea, and Milford . . . 192
Penarth 193
From Cardiff to Caerphilly and Rhymney Bridge . . 194
From Cardiff to Mertuyr i'ydvil 194
Llantwit Major. St. Donat's Castle 190
From Neath to Mertbyr Tydvil. Vale of Neath . . . 197
From Swansea to the Mumbles. The Cower Peninsula 198
From WhitJand to Cardigan. Picton Castle 202
26. From Hereford to Brecon and Swansea 203
From Three Cocks Junction to Moat Lane 203
Tbe Brecon Beacons 201
From Devynock to Llandovery 205
27. From Craven Arms to Llandrindod , Llandovery, and
Carmarthen 205
Vale of Towy. Carmarthen Van. Dynevor Castle . .206,207
*
CONTENTS.
Route Page
From Llandilo to Llanelly and Swansea 207
From Carmarthen to Aberystwith 203
28. From Whitland to Tenby and Pembroke 208
Llawhaden Castle 209
From Tenby to Penally and to Saundersfoot
Oarew Castle. Upton Castle
.... 21U
210 211
Cliff Walk from Tenby to Lydstep Caverns and Manorbier '211
Stackpole Court. The Stack Rocks 212 213
29. From Haverfordwest to St. David's 213
Fishguard. Goodwic 216
30. From London to Oxford 216
a. Great "Western Railway via Didcot 216
From Radley to Abingdon 216
b. Great Western Railway via, Maidenhead and High
Wycombe 217
Hughenden Manor. Aylesbury 217
London and North Western Railway
c. 217
From Vcrney Junction to Banbury 217
31. From Oxford to London by the Thames 218
32. Oxford 223
Excursions from Oxford. Woodstock. Blenheim. . . 233
Stanton Harconrt. Cumnor Hall. Godstow Nunnery. 239
33. From Oxford to Leamington, Warwick, and Birmingham.
Kenilworth 239
Edgehill. Sulgrave 240)
From Leamington to Coventry 241
Abbey
Stoneleigh 044
34. From Warwick to Stratford-on-Avon 244
a. By Railway 244
b. By Road 245
35. From London Harrow, Rickmansworth, and Chesham
to 248
Amersham
Ohenies. 249
36. From London to Birmingham by Rugby and Coventry . 249
Drayton Beauchamp. Menimore 250
From Leighton to Dunstable and Luton 250
From Northampton to Market Harborough 252
From Northampton to Peterborough 252
From Rugby to Leamington, to Market Harborough, and
to Leicester 253
Whitley Abbey. Coombe Abbey 254
From Coventry to Nuneaton 254
From Birmingham to Lichfield and to Walsall . . .
259
37. From Birmingham to Shrewsbury via, Wolverhampton
and Wellington 259
From Dudley Port to Dudley 260
From Dudley to Stourbridge and Kidderminster . . .
260
Boscobel. From Wolverhampton to Stafford .... 261
From Wellington to Market Drayton 261
Environs of Shrewsbury. Wroxeter 263
38. From Shrewsbury to Aberystwith. Central Wales . . .
263
From Welshpool to Oswestry and Oobowen .... 264
Offa's Dyke 264
From Machynlleth to Corn's 265
From Machynlleth to Llanfihangel by road 265
From Glandovey Junction to Barmouth 2G6
 CONTENTS. *i

Route Page
From CHandoveyto Machynlleth by the Llyfnant Glen
• • and Pistyll-y-Llyn 266
Environs of Aberystwith. Devil's Bridge 267
39. From Shrewsbury to Chester 268
a. Via Whitchurch 268
b, Via Ruabon 268
Excursions from Chester. Eaton Hall 276
Hawarden. Beeston Castle 276
From Chester to Mold' and Denbigh 276
From Chester to Manchester via Warrington .... 277
From Chester to Manchester via Northwich 277
40. North Wales 277
a. From Chester to Bangor and Carnarvon. Llandudno.
Anglesey 278
Dyserth Castle. Bodelwyddan 279,280
From Rhyl to Corwen 280
Fairy Glen. Dwygyfylchi. Aber Glen 285
Penrhyn Castle and Quarries. liethesda 287
Carnedd Dafydd. Camedd Llewelvn 2^8
McnaiBridges 288
Isle of Anglesey . 289
b. From Carnarvon to Afon Wen, Port Madoc, and
Barmouth 292
From Afon Wen to Pwllheli 299
Lleyn Promontory 293
Excursions from Barmouth 295
Llanaber and Cors-y-Gedol 296
Road from Barmouth to Dolgelley 296
c. From Barmouth to Dolgelley, Bala, Llangollen, and
Chester 296
Ascent of Cader Idris from Arthog 297
Excursions from Dolgelley. Torrent Walk. Precipice
Walk 298
Tyn-y-Grocs, Rhaiadr-Du, and Pistyll-y-Cain .... 299
Ascents of Cader Idris from Dolgelley 300
The Arans 302
From Bala to Ffestiniog 303
Excursions from Llangollen. Valle Crucis Abbey. Eglwyseg
Rocks. Chirk Castle 304-306
d. From Llandudno to Bettws-y-Coed and Ffestiniog 307 .

Environs of Bettws-y-Coed. Swallow Falls. Moel Siabod.

Fairy Glen, etc 308,309
From Bettws-y-Coed to Bangor. Nant Ffrancon 310 . . .

Excursions from Ffestiniog. Cynfael Falls. Tomen-y-

Mur. Rhaiadr-Du. Raven Fall 311-313
From Blaenau Ffestiniog to Port Madoc by the Toy
Railway 313
e. From Carnarvon to Llanberis and Bettws-y-Coed. . 314
From Llanberis to the Snowdon Ranger 315
From Llanberis to Bethesda 315
f. From Carnarvon to the Snowdon Ranger, Rhyd-Ddu, t*\
and Beddgelert 317
From Beddgelert to Port Madoc 318
From Beddgelert to Ffestiniog 319
Ascent of Moel Hebog. . ' 319
g. Snowdon 319
Ascent from Xlanberis 321
xli CONTENTS.
Route Page
Ascent from Capel Curig. 321
Ascent from Beddgelert and Pont Rhyd-Ddu 321
Ascent from the Snowdon Ranger 322
41. From Chester to Birkenhead and Liverpool 3*22
From Liverpool to Birkenhead, New Brighton, Hoylake,
and West Kirby 330
Knowsley. Childwall Hall. Croxteth Hall. Speke Hall . 33t
From Liverpool to Preston and to Southport .... 331
42. From Liverpool to Manchester 332
a. Via.Newton-le- Willows 332
b. Via Warrington and Glazebrook 332
c Via Atherton 333
From Manchester to Bolton and Blackburn 339
Whalley. Stonyhurst. Valley of the Ribble .... 339
From Manchester to Oldham and Rochdale 339
From Manchester to Hudderslield and Leeds .... 339
From Manchester to London via, Crewe 3'l()

From Manchester to London via Derby 340

43. The Isle of Man 340
44. From Liverpool to London 345
a. Via Crewe and Rugby 345
From Crewe to Chester, to Stoke, and to Whitchurch .345,34G
From Stafford to Shrewsbury, to Uttoxeter, and to
Wolverhampton 346,347
From Lichfield to Walsall and io Derby 349
b. Via Buxton and Derby 349
Melton Mowbray 352
Leicester Abbey. Eradgate Park. Bardon Hill . . .353,354
From Leicester to Burton 354
From Kettering to Huntingdon and Cambridge . . . 354
From Kettering to Oakham and Nottingham .... 354
Elstow 356
From Bedford to Northampton, to Cambridge, to Hit-
chin, and to Bletcliley 356
o. Via Sheffield, Grantham, and Peterborough .... 358
Beauchief Abbey. The Dukeries. Sherwood Forest
Stamford 360,361
Crowland Abbey 363
From Peterborough to Sutton Bridge 363
St. Ives. Hatlield House 363
d. Via Shrewsbury, Birmingham, and Oxford .... 364
4:"). The Derbyshire Peak 364
46. From Liverpool or Manchester to Carlisle 373
From Preston to Blackpool and Fleetwood . . . . . 373
Morecambe. Kendal 374
Eden Hall 374
From Penrith to Keswick, Cockermoutli, ami Workington 3i4
Great Roman Wall 376
From Carlisle to Maryport and to Silloth 376
47. From Carnforth to Ulverston, Windermere (Lnke Side),
Furness Abbey, and Whitehaven 376
From Ulverston to Lake Side 377
48. The Lake District 377
a. Windermere Section 37S
From Bowness to Coniston 380
The Duddon Valley 382
 CONTENTS. X1U

Route Page
From Collision to Dungeon Gill 382
From Windermere to Ambleside, Grasmere, and Keswick 383
From Ambleside to Coniston 385
The Langdales 386
Helvellyn 387
From Grasmere to Ullswater 388
From Windermere to Ullswater 388
b. Ullswater Section 389
From Patterdale to Hawes Water 391
Mountain Ascents from Patterdale 391
c. Keswick and Derwentwater Section 392
From Keswick to Buttermere 394
From Keswick to Thirlmere by the Vale of St. John . 396
From Keswick to Dungeon Gill by the Stake Pass . . 396
From Keswick to Patterdale 397
From Keswick to Wasdale Head 397
Mountain Ascents from Keswick (Skiddaw, etc.) . . . 399
d. Wast Water and Scafell Section 400
Ascent of Scafell Pike 401
49. From London to Sheffield, Leeds, and Carlisle .... 402
Hardwick Hall. Bolsover Castle 402
Kirkstall Abbey 403
From Leeds to Ilkley, Otley, Bolton Abbey, and Skipton 403
From Leeds to Bradford and Halifax 404
Ingleton 405
50. From London to York, Durham, Newcastle, and Berwick 405
From York to Harrogate 409
From Pilmoor to Malton, to Pickering, and to Knares-
borough. Rievaulx Abbey 409
From Northallerton to Stockton and Hartlepool . . . 409
From Northallerton to Leyburn and Hawes. Wenaleydale 410
From Darlington to Barnard Castle and Tebay. High
Force 411
Finchale Priory. Brancepeth Castle 414
From Durham Sunderland
to 414
From Durham Bishop Auckland
to 414
•Tesmond Dene. Tynemouth and the Tyne 416
Alnwick Castle. Alnmouth. Bamborough. Chillingham.
Lindisfarne 417
51. From Carlisle to Newcastle 418
Naworth Castle. Lanercost Priory. The Roman Wall 41S
52. From York to Scarborough and Whitby 419
Oliver's Mt. Bridlington Quay. Flamborough Head . 420
Saltburn 421
53. From Leeds to Harrogate, Ripon, and Thirsk 421
From Ripon to Fountains Abbey 423
54. From YoTk to Beverley and Hull 424
55. From Hull to Lincoln and Nottingham 426
Great Grimsby. Cleethorpes 426
From Lincoln to Boston 429
Southwell 430
Newstead Abbey. Wollaton Hall 431
56. From London toCambridge 431
Saffron Walden 431
Grantchester. Madingley. Cherry Hinton 489
67. From Cambridge to Ely and Hunstanton 440
From Ely to Thetford and Norwich 441
From Hunstanton to Wells 442
xiv CONTENTS.

Route P a8S
.

58. From London to Colchester, Ipswich, and Norwich . .

44Z
Little Mapleatead. Sudbury 442
Clacton-on-Sea. Walton-on-the-Naze 44d
Felixstowe **4
Edmund. Heighani
Caistor St. 44b
From Norwich to Yarmouth and to Cromer 446
From Norwich to Fakenham and Lynn 447

59. From London to Lowestoft and Yarmouth 447

The Norfolk Broada 448
From Yarmouth to North Walsham 449

60. From Cambridge to Newmarket and Bury St. Edmunds . 449

6J. From London to Tilbury and Southend 450

Scotland.
Page
I. Travelling Expenses. Hotels 451
II. Railways, Coaches, and Steamers 451
III. Plan of Tour 452
IV. Outline of Scottish History 453
V. Notes on the Gaelic Language 455

Boute p ase
62. From London to Edinburgh or Glasgow 455
a. Via Leicester, Leeds, and Carlisle 455
From St. Boswells to Kelso and Berwick 456
Jedburgh 456
Abbotaford. Dryburgk 457
From Galashiels to Selkirk. St. Mary's Loch .... 458
From Galashiels to Peebles 458
b. Via York, Newcastle, and Berwick 459
Coldingbam. St. Abb's Head. Fast Castle 459
Excursions from North Berwick. Basa Rock. Tantallon
Castle 460
Musselburgh 460
c. Via Crewe and Carlisle 460
Birrenawark. Environa of Moffat 461
d.By Sea 462
63. From Carlisle to Dumfries and Stranraer 462
Lincluden Abbey. Caerlaverock Castle. Sweetheart Abliey.
Criffel 463
From Dumfries to Glasgow 463
Kirkcudbright • 463
Wigtown, Whithorn 464

64. Edinburgh 464

Excursions from Edinburgh. Craigmillar Castle. Cor-
gtorphine. Blackford Hill. Pentland Hills. Roslin.
Hawthornden. Dalkeith, yueensferry 474,475

65. From Edinburgh to Glasgow 475

a. North British Railway 475
b. Caledonian Railway • •
*<6
Excursions from Glasgow. Hamilton. Bothwell. Falls
of Clyde. Paisley. Ayr. Arrochar. Helensburgh.
Arran! Inveraray. Loch Awe. Belfast, etc. . .480-48.
.
 CONTENTS. *y

Koute Page
66. From Glasgo w to Edinburgh via Loch Lomond, Loch
Katrine. a nd Stirling 482
Asce nt of Ben Lomnnd. Ardlui 483
Falls of Bracklin. Ben Ledi 484
Bannockburn. Cambuskenneth. Dollar. Loch Leven .485,486
From Stirling to Aberfnyle 486
From Glasgow to the Trossachs via Anerfoyle . . . 48fi

67. Ftohi Glasgow to Oban and Inverness. Western Scotland 486

Excursions from Ohan. Dunstaffnage. Staffa and Tona.
Loch Awe and Melfnrt. Circular Tour by Glen Et.ive,
Lnch Etive, and Glencoe to Ballachulish, and back by
Loch Linnhe. The Isle of Skye, et.- 489-491
From Oban to Glasgow or Edinburgh by railway 492 . . .

Glencne. Ascent of Ben Nevis 492

Excnrsions f'Om Inverness. Craig Phadrig. Culloden.
T och Mnree and Gairloch, etc 494,498
From Inverness to Glasgow or Edinburgh 494
From Inverness to Aberdeen 494
68. From Edinburgh to Aberdeen by the Direct Railway
Routes 496
a. North British Railway, via the Forth Bridge . . . 495
St. Andrews . . 496
b. Caledonian Railway 498
Crieff 498
From Perth to Dundee 499
Valley of the North Esk 499
69. From Edinburgh to Aberdeen via. Perth and Blair Athole 600
From Dunkeld to Aberfeldy 501
From Aberfeldy to Loch Tay and Callander. . • . . 501
Falls of Tummel. Loch Kannocli 502
Ben Muich-Dhui. Cairngorm. Lochnagar fV13
From Braemar to Blairgowrie through Glenshee . . 503
70. From Inverness to Thurso and Wick 605
Black Isle 605
Falls of Kilmorack. Struy. Glen Affric. Falls of the
Glomach 50T,
From Dingwnll to Strathpeffer and to Strome Ferry . 506
Dornoch 506
From Lair;4 to Loch Inver, to Scourie, and to Tongue . 507
John o' Groat's Honse 508
71. From Gairloch to Ullapool, Loch Inver, and Durness . . 60S
72. The Orkney and Shetland Islands 510
1. The Orkney Islands 511
2. The Shetland Islands 512
Index 513

Maps.
1 . Railway Map of England and Wales : before the title-
page.
2. The Environs op London: RR. 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, 15, 35, 36, 44,
56, 58, 61; p. 12.
3. The Environs or Dorking and Guildford : RR. 8, 9 ;
p. 64.
4. The Islr of Wimrr: R. 10; p. 65.
5. The Channel Islands R. 12 p. 84. :
;
xvi MAPS AND PLANS.
6. The North Coast op Devon: RR. 19, 20, 21 p. 160. ;

7. The Valley op the Wye R. 22 p. 175.

:
;

8. The Environs op Stratpord-on-Avon RR. 33, 34; : p. 242.

9. The Valley op the Conway R. 40 p. 307.
:
;

10. Snowdonia: R. 40; p. 318.

11. The Derbyshire Peak: RR. 45, 44b; p. 364.
12. The Lake District: R. 48; p. 378.
13. Railway Map op Scotland p. 451. :

14. The Environs op Edinburgh R. 64 p. 474. :

;

15. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs R. 66 p. 482. :

;

Plans.
Railway Plan op London (p. 1); 2. Canterbury Cathe-
1.

dral (p. 27); 3. Brighton (p. 48); 4. Chichester Cathedral

fp. 56); 5. Portsmouth (p. 57); 6. Winchester Cathedral
(p. 77); 7. Salisbury Cathedral (p. 99); 8. Bath fp. 112); 9.
Bristol (p. 113); 10. "Wells Cathedral (p. 113); 11. Torquay
fp. 138); 12. Plymouth (p. 139); 13. Gloucester Cathbdral
fp. 174) 14. Worcester fp. 184)
; 15. Worcester Cathedral
;

fp. 185) 16. Oxford fp. 223); 17. Kenilworth Castle (p. 243)
; ;

18. Birmingham fp. 254); 19. Chester fp. 270); 20. Chester
Cathedral fp. 271); 21. Liverpool fp. 324); 22. Manchester
fp. 334); 23. Lichpield Cathedral fp. 348); 24. York Minster
fp. 408); 25. Durham Cathedral fp. 409); 26. Lincoln Ca-
thedral fp. 427); 27. Cambridge fp. 440); 28. Ely Cathedral
fp. 441); 29. Edinburgh (p. 464): 30. Glasgow fp. 476).
Panorama prom Snowdon, p. 320.

Abbreviations.
= Room; A. = Attendance; B. = Breakfast; D. = Din-
R.
ner; L. = Luncheon. — N. = North, Northern, = etc.; S.
South, E. = East,
etc.; W. = West,
etc.; — M. = Engl, etc.
mile; = Engl, foot; min. = minute; = hour. — L.N.W.R.
ft. hr.
= London & North Western Railway; G.W.R. = Great Western
Railway; N.B.R. = North British Railway, and so on. — E.E.
= Early English architecture); Dec. = Decorated; Perp. =
f
Perpendicular.
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates
the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of
a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles
placed before the principal places on railway-routes indicates their
distance from the starting-point of the route.

Asterisks are used as marts of commendation.

 INTRODUCTION.

I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time.

Honey. In Great Britain alone of the more important states
of Europe the currency is arranged without much reference to the
decimal system. The English Oold coins are the sovereign or
pound (I. = livre) equal to 20 shillings, and the half-sovereign.
The Silver coins are the crown (6 shillings) the half-crown the
,
,

double (4 shillings), the florin (2 shillings), the shilling (s.),

florin
and the sixpenny and threepenny pieces. The Bronze coinage
consists of the penny (d., Lat. denarius), of which 12 make a
shilling, the halfpenny , and the farthing C/4 d.~). The Guinea, a
sum of 21 «. , though still used in popular reckoning , is no longer
in circulation as a coin. A sovereign is approximately equal to 5
American dollars 25 francs 20 German marks or 10 Austrian
, , ,

florins (gold). The Bank of England issues notes for 5, 10, 20,
50, and 100 pounds, and upwards. These are useful in paying
large sums but for ordinary use
; as change is not always readily
,

procured, gold is preferable. The number of each note should be

taken down in a pocket-book for the purpose, in the event of its
,

being lost or stolen of stopping payment of it at the Bank, and

,

thus possibly recovering it. The notes of certain provincial banks

circulate locally, and in Scotland the place of the sovereign is very
generally taken by the one-pound notes of several privileged banks,
which circulate freely throughout the country. Foreign Money does
not circulate in England , and it should always be exchanged on
arrival. A convenient and safe mode of carrying money from Amer-
ica or the Continent is in the shape of letters of credit, or circular
notes, which are readily procurable at the principal banks. A larger
sum than will suffice for the day's expenses should never be carried
on the person and gold and silver coins of a similar size (e.g.
,

sovereigns and shillings) should not be kept in the same pocket.

Expenses. The cost of a visit to Great Britain depends of course
on the habits and tastes of the traveller. If he frequents first-class
hotels, travels first-class on the railways, and systematically prefers
driving to walking, he must be prepared to spend 30-40s. a day or
upwards. Persons of moderate requirements, however, will have
little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook,
in travelling comfortably with a daily expenditure of 20-25«., while
the pedestrian of moderate requirements may reduce his expenses
to 10-15*. per diem, or even less in some of the remoter districts.
Baedek it's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. q
xvnl PASSAGE.

Passports. These documents are not necessary in England,

though occasionally useful in procuring delivery of registered and
poste restante letters. A visa is quite needless.
Custom House. Almost the only articles likely to be in the
possession of ordinary travellers on which duty is charged are spirits
and tobacco, but a flask of the former and 1 /2H) of the latter are
-

allowed for private use. Three pounds of tobacco may be passed

on payment of a duty of 5s. per pound, with the addition (in the
case of cigars) of a slight fine for the contravention of the law for-
bidding the importation of cigars in chests of fewer than 10,000.
Foreign reprints of copyright English books are liable to confis-
cation. The custom-house examination is generally lenient.
Time. Uniformity of time throughout the country is maintained
by telegraphic communication with Greenwich Observatory.

II. Routes to and from England.

It maynot be out of place here to furnish a list of the principal
oceanic routes between the New World and England, and also to
indicate how Transatlantic visitors may continue their European
travels by passing from London to the Continent. An enumeration
of the routes between the Continent of Europe and London may
also prove serviceable to foreigners coming in the reverse direction.
It should, however, be borne in mind that the times and fares
mentioned in our list are liable to alteration.
Routes to England from the United States of America and from Canada.
The traveller has abundant room for choice in the matter of his oceanic
passage, the steamers of any of the following companies affording com-
fortahle accommodation and speedy transit.
Inman Line. Every Wed. from New York to Liverpool; cabin 60-650
dollars. From Liverpool also every Wed.; fare 12-135/. Re turn -tickets
(available for 12 months) issued at reduced rates.
Cunard Line. A steamer of this company starts every Sat. and every
second Tues. from New York and every Thurs. from Boston for Queens-
town and Liverpool. Cabin fare 60, 80, 100, or 125 dollars, according to
accommodation; return-ticket (available for 12 months) 120, 144, 180,
or 220 dollars. Steamers from Liverpool for New York every Sat. and
every second Tues., for Boston every Thursday. Fare 12, 15, 18, or 21
guineas, or 26/.; return-ticket, 25, 30, or 35 guineas, or 45/.
White Star Line. Steamer every alternate Wed. from New York to
Queenstown and Liverpool. Cabin 60-140 dollars steerage 20 dollars. From
;

Liverpool to New York every Wednesday. Cabin 12-221., return (available

for one year) 24-40!. intermediate 7-81.
;

American Steamship Company. From Philadelphia to Liverpool every

Thurs., and from Liverpool to Philadelphia every Wednesday. Cabin 10
to 18gs.; return-ticket 20 to 3Qgs. ; intermediate 6/.
National Steamship Company. Steamers from Liverpool, and also from
London direct, to New York every week. From New York to Liverpool
and from New York to London weekly.
North German Lloyd Line. Between New York and Southampton twice
weekly (from Southampton on Thurs. and Sun.); first saloon 16-23/.,
second saloon 100. 10s. and 13/.
Anchor Line. Steamer between Liverpool and New York monthly.
Saloon 12-25/.; return 22-44/. Also weekly mail-steamer between New
York and Glasgow. Saloon from 9gs., second cabin Ggs., steerage 4/.
Alton Line. From Liverpool every Thurs. and from London fortnightly
 PASSAGE. xix

to Quebec and Montreal, and every alternate Tuea. from Liverpool to St.
John's, Halifax, and Baltimore. Saloon 10-20?*.; intermediate Ggs. Also
to New York weekly (Wilson-Hill Line).
Guion Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Liverpool.
Cabin fare 10-26?.; children under 12 years, half-fare.
State Line. Weekly steamers between New York and Glasgow. Saloon
6 to 8gs.
Dominion Line. From Liverpool weekly and from Bristol fortnightly
in summer to Quebec and Montreal ; in winter from Liverpool fortnightly
to Halifax and Portland. Saloon 10-18?*.; intermediate 6-8?*.
The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 8-IOY2 days.
The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack clothing and
other necessaries for the voyage in small flat boxes or portmanteaus, such
as can lie easily in the cabin, as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the
hold. State-room trunks should not exceed 3 ft. in length, 2 ft. in breadth,
and l'/2 ft. in height. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and ser-
viceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be pro-
vided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may he purchased at the
dock or on the steamer before sailing (from 7s. upwards), is a luxury that
may almost be called a necessary (comp. p. 324). It may be left in charge
of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return -journey. On going on
hoard, the traveller should apply to the purser or chief steward for seats
at table, as the same seats are retained, throughout the voyage. It is
usual to give a fee of 10s. & l h dollars) to the table-steward and to the
state-room steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-
cleaner, the bath-steward, etc. The state-room steward should not be
1
'tipped until he has brought all the passenger's small baggage safely on
to the landing-stage or tender. — Landing at Liverpool, see pp. 324, 330.
Routes from England to the Continent. The following are the
favourite routes between London and the Continent :
—
From Dover to Calais, thrice daily, in I'/i-lVs hr.; cabin 8*. 6d., steerage
6s. 6d. (Railway from London to Dover, or vice vena, in 2-4 hrs. ; fares
20s. or 18*. 6d., 15*. or 13s. 6d., 6s. 9d. or 6s. S'/zd.)
From Folkestone to Boulogne, twice daily, in l'/2-2 hrs.; cabin 8s., steerage
6s. (Railway from London to Folkestone in 2-4 hrs. ; fares same as to Dover,
except 3rd class, which is 6s.)
From Dover to Ottend, thrice daily, in 4-5 hrs. ; cabin 15s., fore-cabin 10s.
From London to Ottend, twice weekly, in 12 hrs. (6 hrs. at sea); 10s.,
7s. 6d.
From London to Rotterdam, twice a week, in 18-20 hrs. (9-10 hrs. at
sea); 20s. or 16s.
From Harwich to Rotterdam, daily (Sundays excepted), in 11-12 hrs.;
railway from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs. (fares 13s. 3d., 10s., 5s. ll'^d.);
fare from London to Rotterdam, 26s. or 15s.
From London to Antwerp, every Sat., in 16 hrs. (8-9 hrs. of which are
on the open sea); 15s. or lis.
From Harwich to Antwerp, daily (Sundays excepted), in 12-13 hrs. (train
from London to Harwich in 2-3 hrs.); 26s. or 15s. (from London).
From Harwich to Hamburg, twice weekly (train from London to Har-
wich in 2-8 hrs.); fares from London 11. 17s. 6d., ll. 15s. 9d., ll. 5s. 9d.
From London to Bremen, twice a week, in 36-40 hrs.; ll. 10*., 15s., or 10s.
From London to Hamburg, thrice weekly, in 36-40 hrs. ; ll. 10*. or ll.
From Queenborough to Flushing , twice daily (Sundays excepted) , in 8 hrs.
(5 hrs. at sea); train from London to Queenborough in V/t hr., from Flushing
to Amsterdam in 6-9 hrs.; through-fare 33*. 6d. or 20s. lid.
From Newhaven to Dieppe, daily, in 6-8 hrs.; 17*. 7d. or 13*. Id. (Rail
from London to Newhaven, or vice versd, in 2-3 hrs.; fares lis. 3d., 7*.
10d., and 4*. 8>/2d.)
On the longer voyages (10 hrs. and upwards), or when special attention
has been required, the steward expects a gratuity of 1*. or more, according
to circumstances. Food and liquors are supplied on board all the steam-
boats at fixed, charges, but the viands are often not very inviting. An official
Interpreter accompanies the chief trains on the Dover and Folkestone routes.
b*
 xx RAILWAYS.
III. Railways. Coaches. Steamboats.

Railways. In proportion to area and population, the railway-

system of Great Britain is more extensive than that of any other
country in Europe, Belgium excepted. The length of lines in
operation amounts to fully 17,000 M., of which 14,000 M. are in
England and Wales and 3000 M. in Scotland. The lines are all in
private hands, by far the greater part of the traffic being mono-
polised by ten or twelve large railway-companies (see table). The
carriages (1st, 2nd, and 3rd class) of the more important companies
are generally clean and comfortable, but those of some of the lines

Gross Train-Miles No. of

Company Miles Revenue run Passengers

Great Western 2477 8,468,6372. 33,046,892 55,098,300

London <fc North Western 1875V2 11,207,008*. 40,543,888 59,333,417

Midland 1800 8,331,120*. 37,638,022 34,581,522

North Eastern 1578 6,837,870*. 25,360,992 38,211,572

Great Eastern 1112 3,965,047*. 17,016,845 73,654,253

Great Northern 936 4,185,030* 18,977,560 28,475,387

London <£• South Western 815 3,305,669*. 12,390,762 39,718,347

Lancashire <b Yorkshire 524 4,181,040*. 15,535,741 42,571,329

London, Brighton, <£

South Coast 476 2,382,209*. 8,849,261 40,679,783

South Eastern 392V2 2,291,790*. 7,222,604 28,656,417

Manchester, Sheffield, &

Lincolnshire 290 2,140,853*. 11,605,553 —
London, Chatham,& Dover 194 1,419,458*. 4,104,277 28,776,962

to the S. of London, as well as of most of the minor railways still

surviving throughout the country, leave much to be desired. The
Midland Railway Co. discontinued the use of second-class carriages
some years ago an example that has lately been followed by the
,

Great Northern Railway on the part of its system not near London
and by other companies. This action has had the effect of im-
proving the third-class accommodation throughout the country, and
of inducing a superior class of travellers to use it , especially on
long journeys. Each company is bound by Act of Parliament to run
at least one train daily ('parliamentary train') at a fare (3rd cl.)
not exceeding Id. per mile; but the 3rd class fares in many of the
fast trains are considerably in excess of this rate. Return -tickets
are usually granted on very liberal terms ; and circular tour tickets
 COACHES. ixl

are issued in all the districts chiefly frequented by tourists (comp.

pp. 277, 451). Smoking is not permitted except in the compart-
ments provided for the purpose. The speed of British trains is
usually much higher than that of Continental rail-ways and a rate,

of 40-50 M. an hour is not uncommon (comp. pp. 106, 455).

On all the English lines the first-class passenger is entitled to carry
11226. of luggage free, second-class 8026., and third-class 6026. The com-
panies, however, rarely make any charge for overweight, unless the excess
is exorbitant. On all inland routes the traveller should see that his lug-
gage is duly labelled for his destination, and put into the right van, as other-
wise the railways are not responsible for its transport. Travellers to the
Continent require to hook their luggage and obtain a ticket for it, after
which it gives them no farther trouble. The railway porters are nominally
forbidden to accept gratuities, but it is a common custom to give 2<2-6<2. to
the porter who transfers the luggage from the cab to the train or vice versa.
Travellers accustomed to the formalities of Continental railway officials
may perhaps consider that in England they are too much left to themselves.
Tickets are not invariably checked at the beginning of a journey, and
travellers should therefore make sure that they are in the proper com-
partment. The names of the stations are not always so conspicuous as
they should be (especially at night); and the way in which the porters
call them out, laying all the stress on the last syllable, is seldom of much
assistance. The officials, however, are generally civil in answering ques-
tions and giving information. In winter foot-warmers with hot water are
1
usually provided. It is 'good form for a passenger quitting a railway-
carriage where there are other travellers to close the door behind him,
and to pull up the window if he has had to let it down to reach the
door-handle.
The figures in the accompanying table refer to 1889; the number of pass-
engers is exclusive of season-ticket holders.
Bradsham , s Railway Guide (monthly; 6(2.) is the most complete; but
numerous others (the ABC Railway Guide, etc.), claiming to be easier of
reference, are also published. Each of the great railway-companies pub-
lishes a monthly guide to its own system (price l-2<2.).

Coaches. There is now practically nothing in England or

Wales corresponding to the diligence of the Continent, as the rail-
way net has substantially covered the entire island. In some of the
most frequented tourist-districts, however, such as Wales, the
Lakes, Devon, and Cornwall, coaches with two or four horses run
regularly in the season, affording a very pleasant mode of locomo-
tion in fine weather. In some places {e.g. between New Quay and
Bideford R. 19) coaches afford the only regular communication.
;

Coaches also ply from London to various points in the vicinity.

The coaches are generally well-horsed and the fares reasonable.
The best places are on the box-seat, beside the driver, who usually
expects a small gratuity. —
The regular charge for one-horse car-
riages is 1«. per mile, carriage-and-pair is. Qd.-2s. per mile (half-
fare in returning; i.e. the one-horse carr. fare to a point 10 M. off,
and back, should be about 15s.); driver extra.
Steamboats. Steamboats play by no means so important a
part in the tourist-districts of England and Wales as they do in
those of Scotland (see p. 452); but lovers of the sea will find no
difficulty in indulging their taste, as the coasts of England are
alive with steamers plying between the various ports. In summer
 ;

xxli PLAN OF TOUR.

steamers run between the chief sea-bathing resorts and the near-
est large towns, and small pleasure-steamers ply on some of the
lakes in the Lake District and on a few of the prettier rivers, par-
ticularly in the S. of England (comp. pp. 133, 142, 145, 448).
Steamers to the Isle of Man, see p. 340 to Scotland, see p. 462
;

to the Isle of Wight, see p. 67 to the Channel Islands, see p. 84.

;

IV. Plan of Tour.

The plan must depend entirely on the traveller's taste
of tour
and the time he has at his disposal. It may, however, be stated
here that all the attractions of the island cannot possibly be visited
in the course of a single summer. Among the most attractive dis-
tricts are the English Lakes (R. 48) Edinburgh and the Scottish
;

Highlands (RR. 64, 66-69) North Wales (R. 40)

; Devon and
;

Cornwall (RR. 17-21); South Wales (RR. 25-29) and the Valley
of the Wye (R. 22); the Shakespeare Country (RR. 33, 34); the
Derbyshire Peak (R. 45) Surrey (R. 8) the Isle of Wight (R. 10)
; ;

and the Channel Islands (R. 12). A glance at the map will show
which groups can be most easily combined but it should be re-
;

membered that even the most widely separated districts are brought
comparatively near each other by the admirable and speedy service
of the railway -system. One of the most characteristic and in-
teresting features of England consists in its cathedral cities , a
round of which alone makes a most delightful tour , while a visit
to two or three can easily be added to an excursion in any of the
districts above named the map again helping to decide. Among
,

the more important cathedrals may be mentioned those of Canter-

bury (p. 25) , Lincoln (p. 426), York (p. 406), Salisbury (p. 99),
Durham (p. 411), Ely (p. 440), Gloucester (p. 170), Norwich
(p. 445), Lichfield (p. 347), Peterborough (p. 362), Winchester
(p. 77) and Wells (p. 123); but many of the others are of nearly
,

equal interest. Those who can manage it should not omit a visit
to either Oxford (R. 32) or Cambridge (R. 56), or both.
The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers,
and in exploring the Scottish and Welsh mountains he will have many
advantages over the traveller by rail or coach. For a short tour a couple
of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the
toilet, a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be found a
sufficient equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to com-
fort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch
or game-bag is far less irksome , and its position may be shifted at plea-
sure. A mure extensive reserve of clothing should not exceed the limits
of a small portmanteau, which may be forwarded from town to town by
railway. The sheets of the Ordnance Survey, published at a very moderate
price, will be found invaluable for the pedestrian (see p. xxxii). —For
hints to cyclists, see p. xxv.
V. Hotels.
The towns, fashionable water-
first-class hotels in the principal
ing places, and most frequented tourist-resorts throughout England
and Wales are generally good and somewhat expensive but in ;
 HOTELS. * x"i

many of the large commercial and Industrial centres the require-

ments of the 'uncommercial traveller' are very inadequately met.
When ladies are of the party, it is advisable to frequent the best
hotels, as the charges of the second-best are often not appreciably
lower, while the comforts are considerably less. Gentlemen
travelling alone, however, will often find comfortable accommo-
dation at a moderate rate in smaller inns of quite unassuming
appearance. —
Temperance Hotels, i.e. houses in which no intoxi-
cating liquors are supplied, abound throughout the country. Their
charges are moderate, but as a general rule their cuisine and fitting
up do not entitle them to rank higher than second-class.
The average charges in a first-class hotel are as follows: room 2*.
6rf.-4i. ; attendance 1*. 6<Z.;plain breakfast it. Gd., with ham and eggs or
meat 2s. -2». 6(2., with fish 2*. 6d.-3i. ; table d'hote dinner 4-5$.} tea, same
charges as for breakfast; hot bath 1*., cold bath in bedroom 6<f. As a
rnle the price of dinner, whether table d'hote or a coffee-room dinner of
3-6 courses, may be approximately stated as equal to the charge for room
and attendance. No charge is made foT lights. 'Pension' as used throughout
the Handbook includes board, lodging, and attendance; D. means table
d'hote dinner. At many hotels in watering-places, it is customary to
supply breakfast also on the table-d'hote system, at a charge of 2s. 6<J.-3s.
Luncheon is generally ordered a la carte; for bread and cheese the or-
dinary charge is 1*. The head- waiter, who presents the bill, and the
'boots' expect a gratuity when the visitor leaves ; but the services of the
former are, strictly speaking, included in 'attendance'.
As compared with Continental hotels, English hotels may be said
as a rule to excel in beds, cleanliness, and sanitary arrangements, while
their cuisine is on the whole inferior. The English table d'hote dinner is
usually dear and seldom so good as its prototype on the Continent; while the
culinary art of hotels off the beaten track of tourists scarcely soars beyond
the preparation of plain joints, steaks, chops, vegetables, and puddings.
Those, however, who are content with simple but substantial fare will
find little to complain of. Beer is the customary beverage (2-3<J. per
glass, 4-6<J. per pint or tankard), but wine is more usual at fashionable
tables d'hote, where beer is sometimes not supplied except in bottles and
at higher rates. Restaurants are not nearly so common in England as
on the Continent, and in most provincial places it is better to go to a
hotel for meals. The dining-room is called the Coffee Room. Smoking is
not permitted except in the Smoking Room and the Billiard Room. Re-
freshments ordered in either of the last are generally paid for on the spot.
Billiard-rooms are not usually found at second-class hotels except in large
towns; the charge is 6<f. per game of 50 points.
In all first-class hotels the visitor has a right to expect a high degree
of comfort; and he need have no hesitation in requiring such small
conveniences as hot water in the morning and before table d'hote, an
abundant supply of towels, pen and ink in his bedroom, etc. In hotels
not lighted throughout with gas there should be a supply of bedroom-
candles on every floor, and not merely at the foot of the staircase. Station
hotels are sometimes convenient, but often noisy. At some of the fashion-
able spas (Harrogate, Buxton, etc.) it is usual to make a fixed charge
per day, covering everything; and if visitors do not wish to be tied
down to the hotel-meals they should make a special agreement.
The Hydropathic Establishments , now so numerous in the popular
tourist-districts of England, Wales, and Scotland, are frequented by pleasure-
seekers as much as by patients, and may almost be described as large
temperance hotels, in which the guests take their meals in common at
prescribed hours and submit to various other general regulations. The
hydropathic treatment may be followed or not, as the visitor pleases. The
usual charge is about 8-10*. a day or 2V2-3 guineas a week.
XX1V SPORTS AND PASTIMES.

VI.Sports and Pastimes

by
W. Blew.
Although there are few places in Great Britain -which do not
offer the visitor more or less facility for sport and pastime, the
stranger -will find the most varied programme when he locates him-
self in some large town. The tendency of the time is to bring as
many amusements as possible within the limits of enclosed grounds.
These enclosures are , almost without exception , the property of a
club, for the members of which the best accommodation is reserved.
The public, however, can obtain admission by payment to the
grounds and to stands not set apart for members. Forth-coming
events are advertised in the papers, and any information on sporting
matters may be obtained by addressing a letter to the editor of one
of the sporting journals such as the Field or the Sporting News.
,

Horse Racing. The chief Race Meetings held in enclosed grounds are
those at Sandown and Kenipton Park (see Baedeker's London), Manchester,
Leicester, Derby, Four Oaks (near Birmingham), and Gosforth Park (near
Newcastle-on-Tyne). There are several annual meetings at each of these
places y and owing to the large sums raced for, and the superior nature
of the arrangements, these 'Gate-money meetings are very popular. Many
1

of the old-fashioned 'open' meetings, however, still survive. There is no

charge for going on the course at Newmarket (p. 449), Epsom, Ascot (see
Baedeker's London), Goodwood (p. 56), and many other places, though, of
course payment must be made for entrance to the stands and paddocks.
,

When the racing season closes, towards the end of November, the enclosed
grounds are used for steeplechases and coursing meetings, the hares being
kept in a pen and 'enlarged' as required. The chief steeplechase of the
year is the Liverpool Grand National , run for in March ; the course is
upwards of 4V2 M. long and the value of the stakes is about 1CHXK The
Grand National Hunters'' Steeplechase is for horses coming under the
delinition of hunters , and takes place on a different course each year.
Hunt Steeplechases, confined for the most part to horses which have been
ridden with specified packs of hounds, are frequent in March and April,
and are growing more and more popular.
Hunting. Nearly the whole of England is hunted over by hounds of
some kind or another, and no difficulty need be experienced in seeing a
pack at work. In most counties hunters may be hired at a charge of
2-3 guineas a day. — The Devon and Somerset Staghounds hunt over Ex-
moor (p. 164) and the Quantocks , pursuing the wild red deer which is
found by the 'tufters.' Horses may be hired at Dulverton (p. 128), Taun-
ton (p. 127), etc. With the exception of the New Forest Pack, all other
packs of staghounds hunt the carted deer. Fox-hunting, however, is the
most popular branch of this sport, and is seen in its glory in the so-called
'Shires', including Leicestershire (the chief), Northamptonshire, and parts
of Rutland and Warwickshire. Most packs are maintained by subscrip-
tion; and though anyone may hunt with them for a day or two without
giving anything, more frequent visitors are expected to contribute to the
support of the hounds. The packs of harriers are very numerous. The
hunting season is opened by the Devon and Somerset Staghounds in the
second week in August; cub-hunting begins in September; and the Royal
Buckhounds meet for forest -hunting at Ascotl on the first Tuesday in
October. Regular hunting begins on Nov. 1st, and lasts till about the middle
of April, though in some counties a May fox is killed.
Fishing. Wherever there is a river in England and Wales, some kind
of fishing may be had; and full information as to the conditions may
generally be obtained at the local fishing-tackle shops. A good deal of
the water is free, but in some cases a charge is made to anglers, while
 ;

SPORTS AND PASTIMES. xxv

in others fishing is granted as a favour only, and the general public are
entirely excluded. Slapton Lea (p. 133) merits notice, as the lake is close
to the sea, and salt and fresh water fishing can he had within a stone's
throw of each other. Deep-sea fishing can be indulged in at any of the
seaside resorts , but it is useless for the stranger to try it without a
fisherman.
Shooting. Though a few hotels advertise the right of shooting over a
considerable area as open to their visitors, this is seldom of much account
and this pastime is practically confined to the owners and hirers of shootings
and their friends.
Aquatics. Boating is practised on all rivers wide and deep enough.
The beauties Thames are well-known, and a favourite trip is to
of the
descend from Oxford to London by boat (see p. 218). The chief rowing
fixture of the year is Henley Regatta (p. 220). —
The Yachting season
begins on the Thames and ends with the regattas on the Devonshire Coast in
September. Comp. pp. 75, 131. —
Sailing on the Norfolk Broads, see p. 449.
Cricket is played everywhere, and the visitor who makes a prolonged
stay will find no difficulty in joining a club. The best cricket is to be
seen at Lord's and the Oval in London (see Baedeker's London) on the ,

grounds of the 'first-class' counties, and at Oxford and Cambridge. The

leading counties are Nottingham, Surrey, YoTk, Lancashire, Middlesex,
Kent, Sussex, and Gloucester. The cricket weeks at Canterbury (p. 26 ; in
Aug.) and at Scarborough (p. 419; Sept.) also deserve notice. The Mary-
lebone Club (at Lord's) is the chief governing body in the cricket world.
Lawn Tennis. Courts open to strangers on payment are found here
and there in old skating-rinks, drill-halls, public gardens, etc., but as a
Tule this game cannot be seen to perfection except in the grounds of clubs
or private persons. Tournaments, open to visitors on payment, take place
in London, Buxton, Leamington, Torquay, and many other centres. Tennis
lawns are often attached to the large hotels in fashionable resorts.
Lack of space forbids more than a mere mention of the following sports
and pastimes, all more or less popular in England Polo, Archery, Football,
:

Hockey, Otter-hunting, Golf, and La Crosse.

Cycling (communicated by Mr. E. R. Shipton). Cycling prospers to

an amazing degree in Britain, where it is estimated that there are about
"500,000 cyclists, men and women, while about 50,000 hands derive employ-
ment, directly or indirectly, from the manufacture and sale of bicycles and
tricycles. The English roads, though inferior to some of the 'chaussees'
of the Continent, are upon the whole above the average; and the American
cyclist will probably find them far better adapted to his requirements than
the ordinary highways of the United States. Speaking roughly, cycling
in Britain is circumscribed only by the area of the island; but as a general
rule the gradients of the roads inland will be found less severe than those
along the coast, while their surfaces are also generally better. The
roads of England and Scotland are usually preferable to those of Wales
and Ireland. The tourist, however, should not plan his route without
regard to the configuration of the country, a knowledge of which is best
attained by consulting a good map. [Black's map on the scale of 4 miles
to an inch, mounted on linen, is portable and well adapted to the cyclist's
use; it may be obtained in sections (at 2s. 6<J. per sheet) from Messrs.
Collins, New Bridge St., Blackfriars, London, S.E., or from any bookseller.]
The American traveller who lands at Liverpool and has either brought
his machine with him or has arranged to have one sent to meet him maj
•profitably begin riding at once. If he turn to the S., he mayjproceed via
Chester, Stafford, and Birmingham to Coventry, whence he may diverge to
take in Stratford-on-Avon, Keniluorth, and Leamington, continuing the jour-
ney to London either direct or via Oxford. Should time admit, the run
may be continued to Reading, Bristol, and through Mid -Devon to the
Land's End; or in shorter stages, as befits the roads, along the beautiful
coast of North Devon. From Cornwall he may return to London via. Ply-
mouth and Exeter; or he may skirt the S. coast to Southampton, Brighton,
and Ramsgale, running thence to London through Canterbury and Maid-
xxvi OUTLINE OP ENGLISH HISTORY.
stone. Should the traveller elect to go northward from Liverpool, he may
visit the English Lakes, Carlisle, the Land of Burns, the Scottish Lakes, the
Highlands, and ao to John o' Qroafs House; returning by Aberdeen, Perth,
Edinburgh, Newcastle, York, Cambridge, etc. The Continental cyclist, land-
ing at Dover, Harwich, or any of the other usual steamboat harbours,
may also begin his riding at once.
The cyclist who contemplates even the shortest tour in Great Britain
will find it decidedly advantageous to become a member of the Cyclists''
Touring Club, which now possesses nearly 25,000 members. It has a re-
sident Chief Consul in the United States (Mr. F. W. Weston, Savin Hill,
Boston) and also a Chief Consul for Continental Europe (Mr. S. A. Stead,
30 St. George's Avenue, Tufnell Park, London, N.). The entrance fee of
this club is 1*., and the annual subscription 2s. 6d. American cyclists who
wish to become members may apply to Mr. Weston. Should they arrive in
England without having been enrolled, they should communicate with the
secretary (Mr. E. R. Shipton , 139 Fleet St., London, E.C.), who, should
their credentials be satisfactory, will send them a provisional certificate
of membership on payment of an additional fee of 2s. Qd. The new member
should then at once buy the Handbook of the C. T. C. (Is.; sold to members
only). This contains a list of 2000 hotels throughout the country, which
charge members of the Club a reduced tariff; the addresses of nearly
1000 consuls (i.e. local resident wheelmen, who are pledged to help their
fellow-members by information and advice) ; the names of over 2000 cycle
repairers ; and much other useful information. The Club has published a
Road Book of the Continent, and is preparing one of Great Britain.

VII. Outline of English History.

The following sketch
of English history may prove useful for
reference in connection with the interesting historical associations
which crowd upon the traveller at every step.

Roman Period (B.C. 55-A. D. 445).

B. C. 55-54. Of Britain before its first invasion by Julius Caesar in
B. C. 55 there is no authentic history. Csesar repeats his invasion in B. C.
54, but makes no permanent settlement.
43 A. D. Emp. Claudius undertakes the subjugation of Britain.
78-85. Britain, with part of Caledonia, is overrun by the Roman general
Agricola, and reduced to the form of a province.
412. Roman legions recalled from Britain by Honorius.
445. The Britons, deprived of their Roman protectors, are unable to
resist the attacks of the Picts, and summon the Saxons, under Hengist and
Horsa, to their aid.
Anglo-Saxon Period (445-1066).
445-577. The Saxons, re-inforced by the Angles, Jutes, and other
Germanic tribes, gradually overrun Britain and thus lay the foundations
of the kingdom of England. To this period belong the semi-mythical ex-
ploits of King Arthur and his knights.
5S8-685. The Northumbrian Kingdom. Christianity re-introduced by
St. Augustine (597). Caedmon (about 665).
685-828. The Three Kingdoms (Northumbria , Mercia, Wessex). The
Venerable Bede (d. 735).
828. Egbert of Wessex recognized as overlord of all English kingdoms.
835-871. Contests with the Danes, who repeatedly invade England.
871-901. Alfred the Great defeats the Danes, and compels them to
make peace. Creates navy, establishes militia, revises laws, re-organises
institutions, is a patron of learning, and himself an author.
979-1016. Ethelred the Unready draws down upon England the ven-
geance of the Danes by a massacre of those who had settled in England.
1013. The Danish king Sweyn conquers England.
1016-1035. Canute the Great, the son of Sweyn, reigns over England.
 OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY *x ™
1035-1040. Harold Harefoot, illegitimate son of Canute) usurps the
throne.
1040-1012. Hardicanute, son of Canute. —
The Saxon line is restored
in the person of —
1042-1066. Edward the Confessor, who makes London the capital of
England, and builds Westminster Abbey. His brother-in-law and success-
or —
1066. Harold, son of Earl Godwin, loses his kingdom and his life at
the Battle of Battingt, where he opposed the invasion of the Normans,
under William the Conqueror.
Norman Dtnasty (1066-1154).
1066-1087. William the Conqueror, of Normandy, establishes himself
as King of the English. Introduction of Norman (French) language and
customs.
1087-1100. William II., surnamed Rufut, after a tyrannical reign, is
accidentally shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell while hunting (p. 83).
1100-1135. Henry I., Beavclerc, defeats his elder brother Robert, Duke
of Normandy, at the battle of Tenchebrai (1106), and adds Normandy to the
possessions of the English crown. He leaves his kingdom to his daughter
Matilda, who however, is unable to wrest it from —
1135-1154.Stephen, of Blots, grandson of the Conqueror. David, King
of Scotland, and uncle of Matilda, is defeated and taken prisoner at the
Battle of the Standard (1138). Stephen appoints as bis successor Matilda's
son, Henry of Anjou or Plantagenet (from the planta genista or broom,
the badge of this family).

Hodse or Plantagenet (1164-1399).

1154-1189. Henry II. Strife with Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, regarding the respective spheres of the civil and ecclesiastical powers.
The Archbishop excommunicates the King's followers, and is murdered
by four knights at Canterbury (1170). Conquest of Ireland (1170-72). Robin
Hood, the forest outlaw, flourishes.
1189-1199. Richard I.,Goeur de Lion, takes a prominent part in the
Third Crusade, but is captured on his way home, and imprisoned in
Germany for upwards of a year. He carries on war with Philip II.
of France.
1199-1216. John, surnamed Lackland, is defeated at Bouvines (1214) by
Philip II. of France, and loses Normandy. Magna Charta, the groundwork
of the English constitution, is extorted from him by his Barons (1215).
1216-1272. Henry III., by his misrule, becomes involved in a war
with his Barons, headed by Simon de Montfort, and is defeated at Lewes.
His son Edward gains the battle of Evesham, where De Montfort is slain.
Hubert de Burgh defeats the French at sea. Provisions of Oxford (1258).
Commons summoned to Parliament (1265). Roger Bacon, the philosopher.
1272-1307. Edward I., Longshants, overcomes the Welsh under Lle-
wellyn, and completes the conquest of Wales. The heir-apparent to the
English throne thenceforward bears the title of Prince of Wales. Robert
Bruce and John Baliol struggle for the crown of Scotland. Edward espouses
the cause of the latter (who swears fealty to England), and overruns Scot-
land. The Scots, led by Sir William Wallace, offer a determined resistance,
Wallace executed at London (1305). The Scots defeated at Falkirk and
Melhuen, and the country subdued. Establishment of the English Par-
liament substantially in its modern form (1295).
1307-1327. Edward II. is signally defeated at Bannockburn by the
Scots under Robert Bruce the younger, and is forced to retire to England
(1314). The Queen and her paramour Mortimer join with the Barons in
taking up arms against the King , who is deposed , and shortly afterwards
murdered in prison.
1327-1377. Edward III. defeats the Scots at Halidon Hill and NevilWs
Cross. Lays claim to the throne of France, and invades that country,
thus beginning the Hundred Years* War between France and England.
Victories of Ships (naval; 1340), Crtcy (1346), and Poitiers (1356). John the
xxviii OUTLINE OP ENGLISH HISTORY.
Good of France, taken prisoner by the Black Prince, dies in captivity
(1364).After the death of the Black Prince, England loses all her French
possessions, except Calais. Order of the Garter founded. Movement against
the corruption of the clergy, headed by the reformer John Wycliffe. House
of Commons holds its meetings apart from the House of Lords.
1377-1399. Richard II. Rebellion of Wat Tyler, occasioned by in-
crease of taxation. Victory over the Scots at Otterburn or Chevy Chase.
Henry of Bolingbroke, Duke of Lancaster, leads an army against the King,
takes him captive, and according to popular tradition, starves him to
death in Pontefract Castle. Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry.

House op Lancastek (1399-1461).

1399-1413. Henry IV., Bolingbroke, now secures his election to the
crown, in right of his descent from Henry III. Outbreak of the nobility,
under the Earl of Northumberland and his son Percy Hotspur, is quelled
by the victory of Shrewsbury, at which the latter is slain (1403).
1413-1422. Henry V. renews the claims of England to the French
crown, wins the battle of Agincourt (1415), and subdues the N. of France.
Persecution of the Lollards, or followers of Wycliffe.
1422-1461. Henry VI. is proclaimed King of France at Paris. The
Maid of Orleans defeats the English and recovers French possessions.
Outbreak of the civil contest called the 'Wars of the Roses', between the
houses of Lancaster (red rose) and York (white rose). Henry becomes
insane. Richard, Duke of York, grandson of Edward III., lays claim to the
throne, joins himself with Warwick, the 'King-Maker', and wins the battle
of Northampton, but is defeated and slain at Wakefield. His son Edward,
however, is appointed King. Rebellion of Jack Cade.

House of Yoke (1461-1485).

Edward IV. wins the battles of Towton, Hedgley Moor, and
1461-1483.
Hexham. Warwick takes the part of Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI.,
and forces Edward to flee to Holland, whence, however, he soon returns
and wins the victories of Barnet and Tewkesbury. Henry VI. dies sud-
denly in the Tower (1471). Edward's brother, the Duke of Clarence, is
said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey.
1483. Edward V., the youthful son of Edward IV., is declared ille-
gitimate, and murdered in the Tower, along with his brother, by his
uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, who takes possession of the throne as —
1483-1485. Richard III., but is defeated and slain at Bosworth by Henry
Tudor, Earl of Richmond, a scion of the House of Lancaster.

House of Tudor (1485-1603).

1485-1509. Henry VII. marries Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and
so puts an end to the Wars of the Roses. The pretenders Lambert Sim-
nel and Per kin Warbeck.
1509-1547. Henry VIII., married six times (to Catherine of Aragon,
Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, and Cath-
erine Parr). Battles of the Spurs and Flodden. Separation of the Church
of England from that of Rome. Dissolution of monasteries and perse-
cution of the Papists. Cardinal Wolsey and Thomas Cromwell, all-power-
•ful ministers. Whitehall and St. James's Palace built.
1547-1553. Edward VI. encourages the Reformed faith.
1553-1558. Mary I. causes Lady Jane Grey, whom Edward had ap-
pointed his successor, to be executed, and imprisons her own sister Elisa-
beth. Marries Philip of Spain, and restores Roman Catholicism. Perse-
cution of the Protestants. Calais taken by the French (1558).
1558-1603. Elizabeth. Protestantism re-established. Flourishing state
of commerce. Mary, Queen of Scots, executed after a long confinement in
England (1587). Destruction of the Spanish 'Invincible Armada' (1588).
Sir Francis Drake, the celebrated circumnavigator. Foundation of the
East India Company. Golden age of English literature Shakespeare, Bacon,
:

Spenser, Jonson, Beaumont, Fletcher, Marlowe, Drayton.

 OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. **ix

House op Stdaet (1603-1714).

1603-1625. James I., King of Scots, and son of Mary Stuart, unites by
his accession the two kingdoms of England and Scotland. Persecution
of the Puritans and Roman Catholics. Influence of Buckingham. Gun-
powder Plot (1605). Execution of Sir Walter Raleigh (1618).
1625-1649. Charles I. imitates his father in the arbitrary nature of
his rule, quarrels With Parliament on questions of taxation, dissolves it
repeatedly, and tyrannically arrests five leading members of the House
of Commons [Hampden, Pym, etc.). Rise of the Covenanters in Scotland.
Long Parliament. Outbreak of civil war between the King and his ad-
herents (Cavaliers) on the one side, and the Parliament and its friends
(Roundheadi) on the other. The King defeated by Oliver Cromwell at
Marston Moor and Naseby. He takes refuge in the Scottish camp, but is
betrayed to the Parliamentary leaders, tried, and executed at Whitehall.
1649-1653. Commonwealth. The Scots rise in favour of Charles II.,
but are defeated at Dunbar and Worcester by Cromwell.
1653-1660. Protectorate. Oliver Cromwell now becomes Lord Pro-
tector of England, and by his vigorous and wise government makes Eng-
land prosperous at home and respected abroad. On Cromwell's death
(1658), he is succeeded by his son Richard, who soon resigns, whereupon
Charles II. is restored by Oeneral Monk. John Milton, the poet; Thomas
Uobbes, the philosopher; George Fox, the founder of the Quakers.
1660-1686. Charles II. General amnesty proclaimed, a few of the re-
gicides only being excepted. Arbitrary government. The Cabal. Wars
with Holland. Persecution of the Papists after the pretended discovery of
a Popish Plot. Passing of the Habeas Corpus Act (1679). Wars with the
Covenanters. Battle of Bolhwell Bridge. Rye House Plot. Charles a pen-
sioner of France. Names Whig and Tory come into use. Dryden and
Butler, the poets; Locke, the philosopher; John Bunyan.
1685-1688. James II., a Roman Catholic, soon alienates the people
by his love for that form of religion, is quite unable to resist the invasion
of William of Orange, escapes to France, and spends his last years at
St. Germain. Sir Isaac Newton ('Principia', 1687).
1688-1702. William III. and Mary II. William of Orange, with his
wife, the eldest daughter of James II., now ascends the throne. The
Declaration of Rights. Battles of Killiecrankie and The Boyne. Grand
Alliance against Louis XIV. Peace of Ryswick (1697). First Partition
Treaty (1698). Second Partition Treaty (1700). Act of Settlement (1701).
1702-1714. Anne, younger daughter of James II., completes the fusion
of England and Scotland by the union of their parliaments. Marlborough''s
victories of Blenheim, Ramilies, Oudenarde, and Malplaquet, in the Spanish
War of Succession. Capture of Gibraltar. The poets Pope, Addison, Swift,
Prior, and Allan Ramsay.

Hanovekian Dr nasty (1714 et seq.).

1714-1727. George I. succeeds in right of his descent from James I.
Rebellion in Scotland (in favour of the Pretender) quelled. Sir Robert
Walpole, prime minister. Daniel Defoe.
1727-1760. George II. Rebellion in favour of the Young Pretender,
Charles Edward Stuart, crushed at Culloden (1746). Canada taken from the
French. William Pitt, Lord Chatham, prime minister ; Richardson, Fielding,
Smollett, Sterne, novelists; Thomson, Young, Gray, Collins, Gay, poets.
1760-1820. George III. American War of Independence. War with
France. Victories of Nelson at Aboukir and Trafalgar, and of Wellington
in Spain and at Waterloo. British conquests in India. The younger Pitt,
prime minister; Edmund Burke; Charles Fox; Shelley and Keats, poets;
Adam Smith's 'Wealth of Nations' (1776).
1820-1830. George IV. Roman Catholic Emancipation Bill. Daniel
CConnell. The English aid the Greeks in the War of Independence. Vic-
tory of Navarino. Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Wordsworth, Coleridge, Soulhey.
1830-1837. William IV. Abolition of slavery. Reform Bill.
xxx WALES AND THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
The present sovereign of Great Britain is —
Queen Victoria, born 24th May, 1819; ascended the thronein 1837;
married, on 10th Feb., 1840, her cousin, Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-
Gotha (d. 14th Dec, 1861).
The children of this marriage are :
—
(1)Victoria, born 21st Nov., 1840; married to the Crown Prince of
Germany (afterwards Emp. Frederick), 25th Jan., 1858.
(2) Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, Heir Apparent to the throne,
born 9th Nov., 1841; married Alexandra, Princess of Denmark, 10th March,
1863.
(3) Alice, born 25th April, 1843 ; married to the Grand-Duke of Hessen-
Darmstadt, 1st July, 1862; died 14th Dec, 1878.
(4) Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, born 6th Aug., 1844; married the Grand
Duchess Marie of Russia, 23rd Jan., 1874.
(5) Helena, born 25th May, 1846; married to Prince Christian of Schles-
wig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg, 5th July, 1866.
(6) Louise, born 18th March, 1848; married to the Marquis of Lome,
eldest son of the Duke of Argyll, 21st March, 1871.
(7) Arthur, Duke of Connaught, born 1st May, 1850; married Princess
Louise Margaret, daughter of Prince Frederick Charles, nephew of the
German Emperor, 13th March, 1879.
(8) Leopold, Duke of Albany, born 7th April, 1853; married Princess
Helen of Waldeck-Pyrmont, 27th April, 1882; died 28th March, 1884.
(9) Beatrice, born 14th April, 1857 ; married Prince Henry of Batten-
berg, 23rd July, 1885.

VIII. Wales and the Welsh Language.

The foimerly independent Principality of Wales (Welsh Cymru),
with an area of 7363 sq. M. and (1881) 1,360,513 inhab., has been
an integral and undisputed part of the British monarchy since 1535.
South Wales was conquered by the Norman French in the reigns
of William II. (1087-1100) and Henry I. (1100-1135), and North
Wales was subdued by Edward I. (1276-84). Wales is by far the
most mountainous part of South Britain, fully one-quarter of its sur-
face being incapable of cultivation, and it contains, especially in its
N. half, a great abundance of picturesque scenery (comp. R. 40).
In all essential particulars travelling in Wales is similar to trav-
elling in England, and the tourist requires no special directions.
Except in the remoter districts English is everywhere understood,
but a few data in regard to the Welsh language are given below
to aid in the pronunciation of proper names. —
The national
Welsh costume is now rare.
Language. Welsh (Cymraeg) is a branch of the great family of
Celtic languages to which the Armoric of Brittany, Cornish, Manx,
and the Gaelic of Scotland and Ireland also belong. Its orthography
is at first somewhat startling to Saxon eyes, but with the exception
of one or two characteristic sounds, the difficulty is not so form-
idable as it appears on the surface.
Most of the consonants of the Welsh alphabet are pronounced as in
English; but / is pronounced like », while and g are always hard. Dd
<;

is pronounced like th like th in think, ff like /, and ch like

in thus, th
the German oft (guttural). The sound of 11, perhaps the most difficult for
a stranger, is produced by forming the mouth as if to pronounce I and
then blowing. This found bears the same relation to I as / does to v.
 ;;

BIBLIOGRAPHY. **xi

A =
passable imitation of it is thl (e.g. Llangollen Thlangothlen). The vowels
a, e, i are pronounced as in the Continental languages (aA, eh, ee), o almost
as in English, and u is a kind of wide sound, the nearest approach to it
in English being > as in fit. When used as a vowel (more often than not)
a is pronounced oo; y is invariably a vowel and is equivalent to the
Welsh u in the last syllable of a word and to « (as in but) in other positions.
A
The circumflex ( ) is often used to denote a long vowel. The letters
j, k, q, x, and z do not occur in Welsh. In combination the initial
letter of a word is often transmuted; thus d and t interchange; also f and
b, and f and m. This change of letter often corresponds to a change of
gender. In pronunciation the accent is always on the penultimate, except
in a few cases when it is on the last syllable.
The following list of Welsh words occurring in the names of places
will be useful. Aber, mouth of a river, confluence of rivers; a/on, river;
bach, bychan (fern, fach, fechan), small; bedd, a grave; bod, a dwelling;
bryn (fryn), hill; bwlch, pass, defile; caer (gaerj, fort; cam, carnedd,
cairn, heap of stones, rocky mountain ; cefn, back, ridge ; elogwyn, precipice
erib (pi. cribau), comb, crest; cwm, valley (comp. combe); din, dinat, a
fortified post; drwi, door, passage; du (ddu), black; dwr, dwfr, water;
eglwyt, church; ffynnon, a well or source; glyn, glen; gwy, water; gwyn,
uyn (fern, gaen, wen), white, fair; llan, church or church-village (lit. en-
closure); llyn (pi. llynnau), lake; maen, faen, vaen (pi. meini), a stone;
maes, foes, a field; mawr, fawr, vawr, great; moel, foel, bare, bald; mynach,
monk; mynydd, mountain; nant, brook, valley (also common in this sense
in French Switzerland) ; newydd, new ; pant, a hollow ; pen, top, head ; pitlyll,
spout, cataract; plat, palace, mansion; pont, bont, bridge; porth, borth,
port, harbour ; pwll, pool ; rhaiadr, waterfall ; rhiw, steep, slope ; rhos, moor
rhudd, red; rhyd, a ford; tych, dry; tal, front, high, head; tan, under;
tomen, a mound; traeth, beach; trwyn, a point (lit. nose); twll, a pit; ty,
a house; tyddyn, a farm; uchaf, highest, upper; y, yr, the; yn, in, into;
ynys, island; yttrad, vale.
If an opportunity presents itself, the traveller in Wales should not
fail to attend an Eisteddfod (pron. eistethvod ; lit. a 'sitting'), or gathering
for competition in music, literature, etc. The best is the National Eisteddfod,
held once a year; but the local 'Eisteddfodau' are also interesting.

IX. Bibliography.
The following small selection of the most recent, the most
is a
interesting, and the most easily accessible topographical and other
books relating to England and Wales. Bulky works, such as county
histories, and older books of which the value is mainly antiquarian
have been purposely omitted. Numerous other works of local in-
terest are referred to throughout the text of the Handbook.
A full list of British topographical works will be found in the 'Book
of British Topography' by John P. Anderson (Satchell & Co., London, 1881),
and a judicious selection of accessible books is given in 'The Best Books'
by W. Swan Sonnenschein , which contains 50,000 titles (2nd ed., 1890).
The asterisks indicate publications of special interest and importance.
'England its People, Polity, and Pursuits, by T. H. Etcott (new ed., 1885).
:

Our Own Country with 1200 illus., published by Catsell & Co. (6 vols.;
,

1879-83).
The Land We Live In, by Wm. Howitt (3 vols., 1854-56).
The British Isles, translated from the French of J. J. E. Rectus and edited
by E. O. Ravenstein (1887).
Notes on England, by H. A. Taint (from the French; 1872).
English Traits, by R. W. Enter ion.
One Hundred Days in Europe, by 0. W. Holmes (1887).
England, Without and Within, by R. O. White (Boston, 1881).
Passages from the English Note -Books of Nathaniel Hawthorne (2 vols.;
Boston, 1870).
xxxiI BIBLIOGRAPHY.
•English Towns and Districts, by E. A. Freeman (London, 1883).
Gilpin's Forest Scenery, edited by Francis G. Heath (London, 18(9).
The Strange Adventures of a Phaeton, by Wm. Black (3rd ed.; Lon., 1872).
Bural Bides in the Counties of Surrey, etc., during the years 1821-1832,
by Wm. Cobbetl (new ed., 2 vols.; London, 1885).
Rambles by Patricius Walker (London, 1873).
Old England and its Scenery (6th ed.; Boston, 1879).
England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by J. Cook (Philadelphia, 1882).
Portraits of Places, by Henry James (1883).
Visits to Remarkable Places, by Wm. Howitt (new ed.. 1888).
Bicycle Tour in England, by A. D. Chandler (Boston, 1881).
"Pennant's Tour in Wales; new ed., by Rhys, 1883 (kept in many of the
Welsh hotels).
Wild Wales, by Geo. Borrow (3 vols.; 2nd ed., 1865).
•Handbook to the Cathedrals of England and Wales, by R. J. King; 6 vols.,
illus. (new ed., 1876 et seq.; London, Murray). This is the standard
work on English cathedrals.
English Cathedrals, by Mrs. Van Rensselaer, with illustrations by Joseph
Pennell (Century Magazine, 1889-90; soon to be published in book form).
Cathedral Churches of England and Wales; illus.; Cassell & Co. (1884).
Abbeys and Churches of England and Wales ; illus. : Cassell & Co. (1887).
'History of Architecture, by James Fergusson (2nd ed. , 1873-6; see vols.
II. and IV.).
•Introduction to the Study of Gothic Architecture, by /. H. Parker (6th
ed., 1881). See the same author's edition of Rickman, his Architectural
Glossary, etc.
•Mediaeval Military Architecture in England, by G. T. Clark (2 vols.; 1884).
The Monumental Efflgles of Great Britain, by C. A. Stothard (new ed., 1876).
Treasures of Art in Great Britain, by G. F. Waagen (translated from the
German by Lady Fastlake; 1854-7).
Anecdotes of Painting in England, by Horace Walpole (new ed., in 3 vols.,
edited by R.N. Wornum ; 1887).
•The Norman Conquest, by E. A. Freeman (6 vols.; London, 1867-79).
See, in particular, chap. 26, vol. V.
The Making of England, by J. R. Green (London, 1881).
The Conquest of England, by J. R. Green (London, 1883).
•The Historic Towns Series, edited by E. A. Freeman and the Rev. W.
Hunt (Longmans; 18S6 et seq.)
Popular County Histories, a series now publishing by Elliot Slock.
The Races of Britain, by J. Beddoe (1886).
Contributions to the Physical History of the British Isles, by Ed. Hull (1883).
Physical Geology and Geography of Great Britain, by Sir A. C. Ramsay
(last ed., 1878; 15j.).
Topographical Botany, by H. C. Watson (2nd ed.; 1883).
British Manufacturing Industries, by G. P. Sevan (14 vols., 1876-8).
Industries of Great Britain, published by Cassell; illus. (3 vols.; 1880).
The Railways of England, by W. M. Acworth; illus. (1889).
Among the numerous comprehensive works of the older English topo-
graphers may be mentioned Brayley and Britten's Beauties of England and
Wales (1801-15; 18 vols.), Camden's Britannia (orig. Latin ed., 1586; 2nd
Eng. ed., 1806), and Lysons' Magna Britannia (6 vols.; 1813).

Ordnance Survey Maps. The whole of England and Wales has been
published on the scale of one inch to a mile, partly in full sheets (40 x 27
inches; 2s. Gd.) and partly in quarter sheets (20X15 inches; 1*.). A new
survey on this scale is in progress, of which 178 quarter sheets have been
published. The whole of Scotland has been issued on the same scale
(each sheet 30 X 22 inches ; is. 9d.). Indexes to show the divisions of sheets
sent post-free on application to Edward Stanford, 26 Cockspur St., Charing
Crofs, London, S.W., agent for the sale of the Ordnance Maps.
 ;

Historical Sketch of Architecture in England

by
Edward A. Freeman.
It follows from the peculiar history of Britain that the history
of English architecture takes a different course from that of the
same art in Gaul and Italy, In these lands it is possible to trace
an unbroken succession of buildings from the time of Roman
dominion down to our own day. There is no sudden break in
architecture any more than in anything else the earliest Romanesque
;

grows out of the later Roman. Direct Roman influences, the imitation
of Roman buildings, the use of Roman materials, go on for ages
in Italy a strongly classical Romanesque survives to meet the
earliest Renaissance, which is hardly to be distinguished from it.
In Britain on the other hand, the complete severance from the
Roman world which followed on the settlement of the Angles and
Saxons hindered any such continuity. But few Roman buildings
lived through the havoc of the English conquest, and those that did
certainly did not supply the Teutonic conquerors with architectural
models. The continuous history of architecture in England begins
with the mission of Augustine in 597, or perhaps a few years
earlier, with the marriage of ^Ethelberht.
The existing Roman Remains in Britain are works of engineering
rather than of architecture. No building, perfect or nearly so,
remains, like the temples and amphitheatres of Aries, Nimes, and
Vienne, no monument like those of Igel near Treves and of Saint
Remy in Provence. It may be safely said that not a single Roman
column is now standing in its own place anywhere in Britain. Even
the using up again of Roman columns in later buildings, so common
in southern lands, may be said to be unknown; an example in
the doorway of Saint Woollos' church in Monmouthshire (p. 187)
seems to be unique. The greatest of all Roman works in Britain is
purely military, the Great Wall, built to defend the Roman pro-
vince of Britain against the independent barbarians to the North
(see p. 376). This is wholly of stone. Most of the surviving Roman
works in Britain are in the late Roman manner of building, where
rows of small stones alternate with courses of narrow bricks. This
construction, common in Gaul and in other Roman lands, but un-
known in Rome itself, may be seen at Leicester, Lincoln, and
above all York at Lincoln too is one arch of a Roman gateway,
, ;

besides the bases and stumps of a row of columns. The nearest

approach to a perfect Roman building is to be found in the Pharos
in Dover castle. Large Roman remains are also to be seen at Bath,
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit, c
 ;

xxxlv HISTORICAL SKETCH

Silchester, Aldborough in Yorkshire, Wroxeter, Saint Albans, and

above Colchester. At the two last places the Roman bricks were
all
largely used in later buildings and were imitated down to a late
time. Remains of Roman country houses are frequently brought to
light by digging, as a very remarkable one lately at Brading in the
Isle of Wight. The mass of Roman remains underground in England
is undoubtedly very large it is the Tarity of whole buildings or large
;

parts of buildings which forms the contrast with more southern lands.
The art of architecture in England began with the first building
of churches. A church of the Roman time at Canterbury was repair-
ed for the use of ^Ethelberht's Christian queen, and new churches
were built by Augustine at Canterbury, by Paulinus at York and
Lincoln, and by others of the early bishops and of the kings who
favoured them. They naturally built in the Roman fashion of the
time, 'more Romano is the phrase often used of these early build-
1

ings but the earliest examples were necessarily small and rude.
;

None is actually standing, unless we accept the church in Dover castle

as the work of Eadbald. But there is little doubt that some of the
masonry of King Edwin's church at York may be seen in the crypt
of the minster. Indeed during the whole five hundred years between
the conversion and the Norman Conquest, we have comparatively
few churches — we have no other buildings —
left, and those for
the most part small and plain. The great cathedral and monastic
churches were all but universally rebuilt soon after the Nor-
man Conquest the buildings of earlier date that remain were
;

mostly preserved by their own obscurity. But there is no greater

mistake than to suppose that Englishmen before the Norman Con-
quest were incapable of building or incapable of building in stone.
The use of wood was common, more common than in later times
but then, as in later times, its use was largely a question of district.
In the eleventh century a church of 'stone and lime' is mentioned
as remarkable in Essex, while a wooden church is mentioned as
remarkable in Somerset. The last was the ancient church of
Glastonbury, the only church of the Britons of which we have any
distinct record which lived on through the English conquest. In the
eighth century a stone church was built to the east of it in the
;

twelfth the wooden structure was itself replaced by a stone one And.

though the surviving churches older than the Conquest are all small
and plain, we have distinct evidence from contemporary descrip-
tions, as of Wilfrith at York and Ripon in the seventh century and
of ^Ethelwald at Winchester in the tenth that large
, , rich and
,

elaborate buildings were perfectly well known.

The style of building doubtless varied inthe space of five
hundred years ; varied very much less than in
but it the five hun-
dred years that followed. The buildings of this date belong to one
general type of Romanesque, one that differs widely from the Nor-
man type of Romanesque that followed it. But it is misleading to
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. xxxv

talk of a 'Saxon' or 'Anglo-Saxon' style. English buildings may

well have had their local peculiarities even then, but there is nothing
about these early buildings which entitles them to be classed as
belongingtoadistinct style from the contemporary buildings on the
continent. Down to the middle of the eleventh century, all Western
Europe had a common style in the course of that century, several
;

countries struck out local types, as in Northern and Southern Gaul

and in Northern Italy; Germany clave to the older style and im-
proved and developed it. The small and plain 'Saxon' buildings
of England are simply ruder examples of the same style as the
great German churches of the twelfth century. But the style is
as little of German as of English origin; it is the common heritage
which the whole West received from the common centre at Rome.
As no great church earlier than the Norman Conquest remains
in England, and not many perfect churches of any scale, our ac-
count of our early buildings is necessarily fragmentary. Small pieces
of work either actually older than the Norman Conquest or at all
events belonging to the fashion of building which prevailed before
the Norman Conquest, are common enough, specially in particular
districts, as Northamptonshire. We have to compare what little
we have left with contemporary descriptions, and with analogous
work in other lands. If the church in Dover castle attached to the Ro-
man Pharos is really Eadbald's work, it must be the oldest surviving
church in England. The large and strange church of Brixworth
in Northamptonshire was either a Roman building turned into a
church or a church built out of Roman materials in the seventh
century. But the most perfect examples of very early churches in
England are two on a very small scale, in Northern and Southern
England severally, the old church at Bradford-on-Avon in Wilt-
shire, built by Saint Ealdhelm between 676 and 709, and the
church of Escomb in Durham. Jarrow and Monkwearmouth, also
in Durham, the former the dwelling-place of Baeda, contain large
portions as old as his day (674-735). On a larger scale and probably
later is the church of Worth in Sussex, a cruciform building. To
reckon up all the examples of small portions of work of this type
would be endless. In all there is a closer tradition of Roman work
than we see in the later Norman form of Romanesque. There is a
tendency to large stones, to flat jambs, to windows with a double
splay (as in the German churches of the twelfth century), to the
fashion of covering walls with horizontal and vertical strips, and to
a peculiar arrangement of masonry at the angles, known as long
and short work. This last too is a Roman feature; it may be seen
on a vast scale in the amphitheatre at Verona. As we have no
aisled church of this date surviving, it is not easy to speak of the
interiors. That columns were used is plain from descriptions;
they are still standing in the crypt at Repton in Derbyshire, where
some other columns remain moved from their places. They belong
xxxvi HISTORICAL SKETCH

to the same general type as those in some of the earlier churches

of Germany, as at Hildesheim. The straight- sided arch is often
used, as inAuvergne and in the gateway at Lorsch, which last has
very much the character of these early buildings in England.
But the distinguishing feature is the towers. Still there is in
these too nothing peculiar to England. They are simply smaller
and ruder examples of a type which went on in use in Germany
and Italy to a much later date and in much more artistic shapes.
They are tall, slender, unbuttressed, with small round-headed
windows, with shafts (sometimes balusters) set in the middle of
the wall, whence the name of midwall shafts. The windows are
set in groups of two or more, but they are never grouped under a
containing arch, as in the Norman style that followed. The towers
seldom keep their finish at the top ; but an original capping may
be seen at Sompting in Sussex, the low four -sided spire so com-
mon in Germany, as at Coblenz. This type of tower, plain and
stern, loftier than the ordinary Norman type, has a singular
dignity of its own which caused it to remain in use for some
while after the Norman Conquest, sometimes even into the twelfth
century. The evidence of Domesday proves that the towers of this
style in the lower town of Lincoln were built between 1068 and
1085, while the minster and the castle were rising on the hill, in
the wholly different Norman style. It is plain that, while the
new fashion prevailed in other respects, men still often built
towers of the elder type by choice. In Lindsey (North Lincoln-
shire) towers of this kind may be almost called common ; there
are several in Northumberland and Northamptonshire ; in some
districts, as Somerset, they are quite unknown. Among the finest,
and those which have the most distinctive character of their own,
are those of Earls Barton in Northamptonshire and Barton-on-
Humber in Lincolnshire, loaded with rude enrichment, Saint Bene't
at Cambridge, and Saint Michael at Oxford. This last, there is
every reason to believe, belongs to the reign of William the Con-
queror, and is contemporary with the work in the castle of some-
what the same kind. That this Primitive Romanesque style, com-
mon to England with all Western Europe, is something quite
distinct from the later Norman Romanesque is best shown by these
examples of the two fashions used side by side.
Of this Primitive Romanesque there is a good deal in some
parts of Gaul, specially towers in the Pyrenees, and buildings
in those parts of Western Switzerland which formed part of the
kingdom of Burgundy. The great church of Romainmotier in Vaud
is plainly kindred with the smaller and fragmentary English build-
ings. In Normandy there is exceedingly little work of this kind,
perhaps not a single tower with midwalls. One cause is this, that
in the middle of the eleventh century, there arose in Normandy,
perhaps under influences from North Italy, a very distinctype dof
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. xxxvii

Romanesque, just as other types arose in Auvergne and elsewhere.

TMsNokman Variety op Romanesque was first broughtinto England
by the Norman tastes of Edward the Confessor, whose great church
at Westminster, consecrated in 1065, was distinctly said by William
of Malmesbury in the next century to have been built in a new
style of building which continued in fashion in his own day; that
is of course the style known as Norman. Introduced under Edward,
its use was confirmed by the actual Conquest under William, and
it gradually displaced the earlier mode of building. By the end
of the eleventh century, most of the great churches of England
had been rebuilt in the new style. The reason seems to have been
mainly that their size was not great enough for the taste of the
Norman prelates, who took in England to building churches on a
gigantic scale, such as they certainly had not been used to in their
own country. It would almost seem that Edward's church, which
was of vast size, set the example. It could hardly have been that
the English churches were condemned for lack of ornament, as
the early Norman buildings are remarkably plain, even more so
than those that went before them. And throughout the pre-
valence of the Norman style the greatest amount of ornament is to
be found in the smallest buildings. And in truth no style can
better dispense with ornament; none can better trust to sheer
stateliness and solemnity of general effect. In this it recalls the
old Doric of Greece.
The Norman form of Romanesque prevailed in England from
the middle of the eleventh century to the end of the twelfth; but
it went through several changes during that time, mostly in the
direction of increased lightness and ornament. The earliest Norman
minsters are of vast size, very massive and very plain, and they
sometimes keep about them some traces of the earlier style. So it
is in Saint Albans abbey, the vastest of all and the plainest of all,
being chiefly built out of Roman bricks from Verulam. The tran-
septs of Winchester cathedral (1079-1093) are of the same date,
and also keep some Primitive traces, but the effect of the stone
church is very different from that of the brick. Norwich cathedral
is a little later (1096-1109) and rather more advanced in style;
but it belongs on the whole to the early Norman type of church
with low massive piers and triforium as large or nearly so as the
pier-arch. Gloucester abbey (1089- 1100) shows another type,
in which the piers, though massive, are very lofty, and the triforium
and clerestory small; this is carried yet further in the abbey of
Tewkesbury (1102-1121). The usual arrangement among the great
churches of this time was the cross shape with a central tower,
and most commonly two towers at the west end, a long western
limb — the choir being under the tower or even west of it — and
a short eastern limb with an apse. The style is easily distinguished
from the earlier style by its use of shafts in the jambs of doors and
 ;

xxxvm HISTORICAL SKETCH

windows, by the single splay of the windows, by the coupling of

belfry windows under an arch, and by the beginning of a system of
surface mouldings which gradually increased in richness. The strips
and long-and-short work of the Primitive style go out of use, and
we get instead flat pilaster buttresses. Two forms of capital are
very characteristic of the Norman style the cushion capital , an
,

imitation of the Doric which lasted through the whole Norman

period, and a rude imitation of the Ionic, which is used only in its
earlier stages. The piers are sometimes square, with shafts in the
angles, sometimes round, hut far too heavy to be called columns
the genuine column is hardly found, except in crypts. The relation
to Roman architecture is quite different in the Primitive style and
in the Norman. In the older style it is not so much that Roman
forms are imitated as that survivals of them are kept on by unbroken
tradition. The Norman style (like the other contemporary forms
of Romanesque) shows a conscious and eclectic imitation of parti-
cular Roman details, as we have just seen in the shafts ; but in its
spirit and feeling it departs much further from Roman work. But
the comparison can hardly be made in England , where no great
Primitive church survives. The difference is well seen by com-
paring a Norman minster with an early German one, as at Hildesheim.
The beginning of a new variety of Norman is seen in Durham
abbey, begun in 1093 by Bishop William of Saint Calais. He
died in 1096 , having finished only the eastern part of the church.
Here we get a less massive proportion ; the round pillars are not
so extravagantly lofty as at Gloucester and Tewkesbury, while they
give a much higher pier-arch and a much lower triforium than
Winchester and Norwich. They are fluted in various forms, a
peculiarity found elsewhere (as in a few at Norwich), but chiefly in
churches coaeval with Durham, as Waltham, Dunfermline, and
Lindisfarne — the last much later in the style. Durham in short
has hit on the most perfect proportions that the style allows it;

is as distinctly the head of Norman Romanesque as Pisa is the

head of the Italian and Saint Sernin at Toulouse of the Aquitanian
variety of the style. The work is more finished than in the earlier
buildings, and more of ornament comes in but the building cannot
;

be called rich. It shows how architecture was affected by the

genius of particular men, and how independent style sometimes is
of date, that after Bishop William's death the transepts were
continued by the monks in a much plainer and ruder style which
anybody would take to be twenty or thirty years older than the work
which is really earlier than itself. Then cameBishopRandolf Flambard
and continued the nave from Bishop William's general design, but
with a certain increase of ornament.
The work of William of Saint-Calais marks a stage intermediate
between the very early and plain and the very late and rich Nor-
man. The beginning of the latter is due to Bishop Roger of
 ;

OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. xxxlx

Salisbury, the minister of Henry the First, a great builder both of

churches and castles. He brought in both great enrichment in
detail and the use of more finely-jointed masonry. Men said that
his buildings looked as if they were all of one stone. This style
and the early Norman can be well compared in the west front of
Lincoln minster, where the plain work of the original founder
Bishop Remigius (1085-1092) is contrasted in a marked way with
the more elaborate detail of the parts bnilt by Bishop Alexander
(1146), the nephew of Roger of Salisbury. This middle Nor-
man style of Roger is perhaps hardly to be found in the whole
of any church of great size but we may assign to it many build-
;

ings and parts of buildings which show a certain increase of light-

ness, but without either the excessive ornament or the classical
tendency of the next stage. Saint Peter's at Northampton may
perhaps pass as an example. In truth the development of art
which was started by Roger was thrown back by the anarchy of
Stephen's day, and took life again under Henry the Second. The
Norman style of his day grows richer and richer, lighter and lighter;
the appropriate surface ornament of the style is now wrought into
most elaborate shapes columns are used wherever the weight to be
;

borne was not too heavy for them ; the capitals forsake the ruder
types of the earlier Norman, either for more elaborate forms of the
old cushion or even for foliage almost reproducing the richness
of the ancient Corinthian. Of this late Norman style we have many
examples ; of course all do not reach the same measure of richness
but the feeling is essentially the same throughout. Such are the
nave of Saint David's cathedra], Selby abbey, Worksop priory, the
western church at Glastonbury (commonly known as Saint Joseph's
chapel), the hall of Oakham castle, the church of Iffley near Ox-
ford, and many others. None departs so widely from the idea of
Norman Romanesque as a massive style as the Galilee or Western
chapel of Durham abbey. There the arches originally rested on
two slender shafts under a single abacus , a feature found in some
Roman buildings and specially adopted by the Saracens. It is
common in cloisters in Aquitaine , Italy, and Sicily , but it seems
a strange shape for the piers of a considerable building. At a
later time it was clearly deemed unsafe, and two other shafts were
added for strength. Through all this time the rule still holds that,
the greater the building, the plainer it is. Very few churches on
the scale of Saint David's are so rich and Saint David's is one of
,

the smaller cathedral churches. Throughout the Norman style,

both early and late, special attention was paid to the doorways.
Small and otherwise plain churches often have a doorway of con-
siderable richness, and Norman doorways have often been preserved
when the rest of the building has been rebuilt in a later style.
The reason doubtless is that a doorway has more of separate exist-
ence than most other features. This is specially true where the
*1 HISTORICAL SKETCH

doorway is under a porch but porches are rare in Norman churches,

;

though there is a fine one at Southwell minster.

During the Norman period we are no longer confined to
churches and their appurtenances as subjects of architectural study.
We have a store of castles and some houses to refer to. It is per-
haps hardly needful to say that at no period of good art was there
any special style for churches or for any other class of buildings.
The different purposes of a church, a castle, a house, a barn, will
cause great differences of form, outline, proportion, among the
different classes of buildings : but the style, strictly so-called, the
details ,the ornamental forms, are always the same. A military
building is likely to have less ornament than an ecclesiastical one ;

but those parts of it which are enriched will be enriched in the

same way. Thus we have mentioned the hall of Oakham castle.
This , like many other early halls and monastic infirmaries , has
columns and arches which might just as well have stood in a church.
The castle, a novelty of Norman introduction, now became a chief
feature in the architecture of England as of other countries. The
usual type of the Norman castle has for its main feature the massive
rectangular keep, which, without changing its essential character,
may either swell into such vast buildings as those of London and
Colchester or sink into the peel-tower of the borders of England and
Scotland, which are simply the Norman keep on a very small scale.
Pre-eminent among the Norman castles of England is the Con-
queror's own fortress planted to keep London in awe. The Tower of
London, built by Gundulf, Bishop of Rochester, shows how the plain
and early Norman style could be wrought into perfectly finished
forms in military as well as in ecclesiastical work. Its most in-
teresting part, the chapel, unites both characters. It is plain but
not rude with columns and an apse in the thickness of the wall.
,

This great building may be compared with the small tower which
Ghindulf built for himself at Mailing in Kent. The castle of
Rochester is not his work, but that of Archbishop William Corbeil
(1126-1139); it is an excellent example of much the same style
as Bishop Roger, a great advance in ornament, but with much of
the massiveness of the elder style living on. And it is now in a
castle rather than a church, in the remains of his castle at Sher-
borne that we can best study the work of Roger himself. Another
type of castle, less usual during this period than the square tower,
and less easily lending itself to architectural forms, was the Shell
kepe, a single wall, commonly polygonal. This is chiefly found when
the castle was built on a mound of earth which might not have
borne the weight of the heavy square tower.
Houses, strictly so called, are still rare, but there are a few
examples. Some of the best are in towns, as at Lincoln and Bury
Saint Edmunds, where they bear the name of Jews, and some have
thought that stone houses in towns at this date were first built by
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. *U

Jews. A
contemporary writer speaks of their 'houses like the
palaces of kings'. There is some other domestic Norman work at
Lincoln, namely Saint Mary's Guild, commonly called John of
Gaunt's stables. There is also a house of very late Norman just
outside Cambridge, called Pythagoras' School. And there area
few others elsewhere. But for the best examples of domestic
architecture at this time, we must look, not so much to houses
strictly so called, as to those parts of castles and monasteries which
were not military or religious. Of monastic buildings of this date
a good deal is left, as very largely at Christ Church, Canterbury.
The great hall of the palace of Westminster, as built by William
Rufus must have been a wonderful specimen of early Norman
,

work, with two rows of pillars and arches, as in the later hall at
Oakham (1175-1191). But it was recast in the fourteenth century,
and the architectural features are lost. Of Romanesque applied in
municipal buildings, in which Italy is so rich, England has now
perhaps nothing to show ; but examples survived not so long ago
at Exeter and Colchester.

We now come
to the great change by which the style known as
Gothic Pointed gradually took the place of Romanesque. This
or
style, it must be remembered, in England supplanted the Norman
variety of Romanesque; in Germany it supplanted a developed
form of that earlier Romanesque which in England died out before
the Norman. This change implies a great deal more than the mere
introduction of the pointed arch. The pointed arch is really as
old as the round, and its shape is actually found in some of the
earliest attempts at the arch in Greece and Italy. It was used by
the Saracens for some centuries before the time to which we have
come, and from them it was brought into the Christian buildings of
Sicily and Southern Gaul at least as early as the eleventh century.
In those countries the pointed arch by itself is no sign of approach-
ing Gothic, and the buildings in which it is used show no other mark
of approach to that style. In England, France, and Germany, the
mere use of the pointed arch was most likely brought in from the
East by the crusaders; so that it is in a sense of Saracen origin
in those countries also. But the Saracens, while using the pointed
arch, had never developed a system of ornament which tho-
roughly suited it. This last is exactly what the architects of
northern countries did, and, in so doing, produced the style called
Gothic, a name absurd enough in itself, as it had nothing whatever
to do with any Goths but which may be accepted
, , as being com-
monly understood. The process by which the new style was deve-
loped out of the old followed somewhat different stages in Eng-
,

land, France, and Germany, but the general result was the same
in all. Each country produced its own characteristic form of
Gothic. Thus in England mouldings developed faster than they
 ;

Xlii HISTORICAL SKETCH

did in France, while in France windows developed faster than they

did in England. We have here to do with the process of change,
the Transitional style between Romanesque and Gothic, as it went
on in England. First of all the pointed arch came in as a con-
,

structive feature , without any new system of ornament ; the

arches are either plain or have Romanesque ornaments. It is not
uncommon to see the great constructive arches of a church the ,

pier-arches and those of the vault, pointed, while all the smaller
arches are still round. There can be no better example than the nave
of Malmesbury abbey, a grand massive design, Romanesque in
everything, except the form of the pier- arches. Gradually the
pointed arch came in in other places besides the main arches;
gradually too the ornament changes from the flat surface of the
,

Romanesque to a system of deep mouldings rounds and hollows,,

affecting the section. As a general rule, the constructive lines

become Gothic, while the mouldings are still largely Romanesque
but sometimes things take the opposite course and we find round ,

arches with Gothic mouldings nearly or wholly developed. This

is a local fashion in Northamptonshire as the Norman doorways
;

were so much admired and often preserved so something in the

,

Norman fashion went on in doorways when it had gone out of use

in other features. The Norman ornaments went on longer in this
district than elsewhere and the round arch went on longer than
,

the ornaments. This Transitional period is a most interesting

study, and there are many fine examples of it. Such are the whole
eastern part of Canterbury cathedral (1175-84), part of the nave
of "Worcester, Glastonbury abbey, both the eastern and the
western church, while a plain type will be found among the
Cistercians, as at Kirkstall. But the most instructive examples
are to be found at Peterborough and Ely, examples of the way
in which, while the Transition was fast going on, men some-
times followed an earlier type for some particular reason. Both
these naves were built quite late in the twelfth century, but, being
adapted to earlier Romanesque work they keep the proportions
,

and general effect of the earlier style though a narrow exami-

,

nation will show that the mouldings are considerably advanced in

the new fashion. But, as soon as the west front was reached,
where adaptation to an earlier model was no longer held needful,
later outlines as well as details came in freely.

The earliest type of English Gothic, called by different writers

Early English and Lancet, had pretty well reached perfection by
the last years of the twelfth century. Saint Hugh's work at Lin-
coln must be reckoned as belonging to it, though it is perhaps not
quite clear of Romanesque traces. The perfect English form of this
style is all but peculiar to England one or two examples may per-
;

haps be found in Normandy. We may define it as the style which

 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. *liii

combines the use of the simple lancet in windows with the use of
the round abacus in shafts. This distinguishes it from contemporary
French work where fully developed tracery in the windows is
,

constantly found along with the square abacus. The English work
also has much bolder mouldings ; it deals much more in detached
shafts — a favourite kind of pillar is a column with small banded
shafts round it the foliage of its capitals is freer, and departs
;

farther from classical models. On the other hand, the French style
is far richer in sculpture, above all in the magnificent doorways
which have hardly any fellows in England. The difference between
the two countries may be best seen by comparing (as has often been
done) the two churches of Amiens and Salisbury, which were
building at the same time. The French church has as much the
advantage in the windows and doorways as the English has in all
the smaller details. But there is a local variety of the English
Early Gothic which comes far nearer to the French style, having
square or octagonal abaci, less bold mouldings, and few or no de-
tached shafts the capitals of the shafts too are far more like
;

French work. This style is found in the West of England and South
Wales ; that it is strictly a lingering of Romanesque feeling is
shown by several of the details showing themselves in the late
Romanesque of Saint David's and the Transitional work at Glas-
tonbury. It is continued in more fully developed Gothic at Llan-
daff cathedral, and it may be best studied at Wells, where it can
be compared with work of the more usual English kind in the same
church. This style is also to be found in several smaller buildings
in the district to which it belongs ; the inner porch of Saint Mary
Redcliff at Bristol, the church of Slymbridge in Gloucestershire,
and the small churches of Whitchurch in Somerset and Cheriton
in Gower will supply good examples.
It was in the thirteenth century, during the prevalence of this
Early Gothic style, that English churches, great and small, put on
those peculiar features which distinguish them from those of the
continent, especially from those of France t. Even in the twelfth
century, the English churches began to throw out much longer
choirs, a practice which perhaps began at Canterbury under Saint
Anselm , and which in the thirteenth century became the rule.
The next stage was to leave off the apse and to use a square east
end, either with a single large window or group of windows, or

+ The words France and French in these comparisons must be under-

stood of France in the strictest sense, or at all events only of the lands
north of the Loire. Southern Gaul, which gradually became French in
a political sense, had nothing to do with France architecturally, save
that some grand French churches were here and there built in those
lands as something quite foreign. But the native style at all times is so
different that, widely as French and English buildings differ from each
other, we may put them together as a single Northern manner of building,
as distinguished from the national architecture of Aquitaine and Provence.
*liv HISTORICAL SKETCH

with a lower Lady chapel beyond it. Even in the Norman period,
though the apse was all but universal in the great English churches
— it remains at Peterborough and Norwich — it was the exception

in the small churches, and from the thirteenth century onwards an

apse in an English parish church is most rare, and the few that there
are are mostly much later than this time. Indeed even in cathed-
ral and other great churches the apse is very rare, being of course,
where it is found, polygonal and not round. So we see at West-
minster abbey, great part of which is really French work on
English soil, and in the smaller abbeys of Tewkesbury and Pershore.
The central tower remained the almost universal rule for great
churches — Exeter and Llandaff are the only real exceptions —
while in France (save in Normandy) it went out of use in the great
churches, and remained far more common in smaller ones than it
is in England. A great English church is usually much longer and
lower than a French one the English church has the better external
;

grouping, while the French church has the grander internal effect;
Saint Ouen at Rouen alone contrives to combine the merits of
both. Again in England there grew up a type of parish church,
wholly different from the minster, but just as good in its own way,
while in France, where a small church has any architectural merit,
it is commonly (not always) by way of reproducing the minster on
a small scale. A French church was always vaulted whenever it
could be a wooden roof, whenever there is one, is a mere shift.
;

P.ut in England the vault is rare indeed in small churches and

is not altogether universal in minsters. It was clearly omitted by
preference , and various forms of enriched wooden roofs were
used instead, not as shifts but as approved substitutes. And the
absence of the vault of course enabled the pillars to be lighter than
when they had to bear such a much greater weight. All these
tendencies reach their fullest development in the latest form of
English Gothic it is there that they are thoroughly wrought into
;

an artistic shape but they begin from the beginning. "We do not
:

see in England, in the thirteenth century any more than in the

fifteenth, the small minster-like churches which we seein France.
New Shoreham is perhaps the only English parish church of this date
which affects the type of the minster, and that might be a minster
in scale as well as in style. These two points of difference, the
absence of the apse and the vault are enough of themselves to
distinguish an English and a French church, and it is perhaps
worth noting that in Ireland the English peculiarities appear in
a more marked shape still. In short the differences between insular
and continental buildings begin in the Early Gothic of the thir-
teenth century, and they go on widening as long as Gothic archi-
tecture lasts.
Of this English style of the thirteenth century the most distinctive
feature of all is the Lancet window, from which it has been well
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. *lv

called the Lancet style. These long narrow -windows are used
alone, or in groups of twos, threes , and greater numbers. Some-
times two or three are grouped under an arch. There we get the
first approach to window tracery. The space above the openings
was pierced with some figure, a circle or quatrefoil this is already
;

usual in openings which are not meant to be glazed as in tri-

,

foria and belfry- windows but it does not as yet grow into
;

actual tracery. The triforium is now commonly lower and the pier-
arch higher than it was in the Norman style; only at Ely, the
same feeling of adaptation to older work which gave the nave its
peculiar character, affected also the work of this date, and the
triforium is unusually large. The work of this date at Ely, in-
cluding the east end is the very finest example of the style in
,

point of detail. All the characteristic features come in and with

,

a remarkable degree of richness. For, while this style can be very

simple, it can also put on an almost lavish amount of ornament.
Sculpture too, in the stricter sense, the carving of the human figure,
takes a sudden leap in the twelfth century attempts of this kind
;

were still very rude in the thirteenth we have admirable sculp-

;

tures on the west front of Wells, not the less admirable as sculp-
tures because the front, as an architectural design, is sacrificed to
them. On the whole , at no period of mediaeval architecture was
there so much richness and freedom of detail as in the days of the
earliest fully developed English Gothic.
Of this style we have many examples in our great churches.
The nave of Lincoln the choir of Southwell the whole eastern
, ,

part of Beverley, much of Worcester, the eastern transept at Dur-

ham, the transepts of York (with their very strange wooden vault-
ing), and specially the whole church of Salisbury, except the
tower and spire, belong to this style. Salisbury is naturally often
quoted as the model of the style, as it is so rare to find a great
church all in one style from one end to the other. But it is surely
far surpassed by the contemporary parts of Lincoln in proportion
and by that of Ely in detail. A
crowd of smaller churches might
be quoted; two remarkable ones are the church of Warmington in
Northamptonshire (with a wooden vault to the nave) and the very
small church of Skelton near York.
Two features which may be traced back to the twelfth century
reached their full development in the thirteenth. The earliest
and the latest chapter -houses are rectangular. That at Worcester
in the twelfth century was round; just as in the case of the apse,
the round form naturally became polygonal, and from the thir-
teenth century onwards we get a remarkable class of polygonal
chapter-houses, usually with a single central pillar, a form of
singular beauty. The earliest is that at Lincoln, which belongs to
our present period ; the rest belong to a time a little later. The
other feature was the tendency to finish the west end of a great
xlvi HISTORICAL SKETCH

church with something other than either the mere ends of the
nave and aisles (as at Norwich) or the aisles ending in towers, as
in most large Romanesque churches. Sometimes, as at Ely and
Peterborough, this took the shape of an actual western transept.
In the magnificent Transitional part of Ely, a single vast western
tower rises in the middle of the transept, a fashion which, on a
smaller scale and in a ruder form, is the rule in Auvergne. At
Peterborough the transept was combined with two small western
towers, only one of which was ever finished. But here a second
addition was made in the shape of a magnificent portico of three
lofty -arches, in the best wOTk of this style, perhaps the grandest
conception for a single feature which mediaeval architecture has
produced. It is in fact the Greek portico translated into Gothic
language. But in other cases all that is done is to disguise the
real shape of the front, whether with or without towers, by a mere
wall, a sheer piece of pretence. So it was in Malmesbury abbey
even in the twelfth century so it is in different shapes, at Lin-
;

coln (where there is a kind of western transept), at Wells (where

the western towers stand beyond the aisles), at Salisbury (where
there are no western towers). In these, and in some other cases,
the shape of the front is not the real constructive shape. This
fashion afterwards went out; the later fronts are either the mere
ends of the nave and aisles, or else there are western towers, some-
times, as at Beverley, with an unreal wall built between them,
but with no screen in front.
Church towers now begin to be taller than they were in the
Norman time; that is, in truth, they fell back on the older
Primitive type. And now their roofs begin to shoot up into tall
spires, first of wood, then of stone. But these are in their first
stage to be mainly studied in parish churches, specially in a district
which takes in North Northamptonshire, the southern part of Lin-
colnshire called Holland, and parts of other counties. These early
spires (known as broach spires) keep their character as roofs by
hanging over the tower, and they are more massive than spires
become afterwards. But there are very few of this kind to be seen
in the great English churches; the low spire of Saint Frideswide
at Oxford (now the cathedral church) stands almost alone.

In the latter part of the thirteenth century another change

comes in. Tracery now begins to be used in the windows, as had
been the case long before in France. Tracery grew very naturally
out of the figures pierced in the head of a window of two or more
lights under an arch. Bring the circles, or other figures, close
to the arches, and pierce the spandrils or spaces between them,
and we at once have the simplest form of tracery, that which uses
only a few simple geometrical figures, circles, quatrefoils, trefoils,
sometimes the spherical triangle, and even the spherical square,
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. "*1tU

which last is very common is Germany and very rare in England.

Windows of this kind may be formed of any size the arches sup-
;

porting circles may be repeated over and over again on different

planes, so that a window of eight lights shall be made up of two
windows of four lights, and those again each of two windows of
two. Such is the great east window of Lincoln minster, the finest
example of this stage the whole eastern part of the church, called
;

the Angels' choir (1255-1280) is of this date , and is as perfect

in its way as the Lancet work at Ely is in its way. The nave of
Lichfield, the chapter-house at Salisbury, the staircase to the
chapter-house at Wells, the north transept at Hereford, the church
of Winchelsea, the ruined abbeys of Tintern and Netley, are other
examples of this style. The earlier among these have fallen away
but very little from the perfect beauty of detail which belonged
to the style in use just before ; but even in the Angels' choir the
mouldings are not so deep nor the foliage so bold as in the eastern
parts of Ely. By those who have divided the mediaeval styles ac-
cording to their windows, this style is called the Geometrical.
The next form in idea is where the lines of tracery cease to be
Geometrical and become Flowing ; that is , the figures no longer
merely rest on the arches, but the mullions themselves are actually
continued in the lines of tracery , but always in various forms of
curves. But the change from the Geometrical forms to these was
very gradual. There is a style of window, of which those in the
choir of Merton College chapel at Oxford are among the very best,
in which the tracery is Geometrical and not Flowing, but which
still differs a good deal from the simple Geometrical of Lincoln.
The design of the tracery is far more elaborate and brings in a
much greater choice of figures. Wesee these forms again in the
nave (1291-1329) and chapter-house at York — a chapter-house
without a central pillar —
while the great west window, the pride
of the nave (1338) has fully developed Flowing tracery. Of this
last the two grandest examples are those at the east ends of Carlisle
cathedral and Selby abbey, the latter of which has a Geometrical
window alongside of it. Heckington church, Lincolnshire, and
Snettisham, Norfolk, are fine examples on a smaller scale ; but the
building of all others in which to study the developement of tracery
is Exeter cathedral (1280-1370). Here it starts from the simple
Geometrical in the eastern Lady chapel, and advances westward.
The truth is that there is in idea a very wide gap between the
stylea which are marked by the use of Geometrical and Flowing
tracery , but that it is by no means easy always to divide them in
practice. All the forms of window-tracery, English, French, and
German, fall into two great classes , admitting of further divisions
according to periods and countries. There is, first, the Geometrical,
the forms of which in the different countries differ less from each
other than the later forms do. There are, secondly, all those forms
xlviii HISTORICAL SKETCH

In which the mullions are continued in the tracery, whether in

straight or in curved lines, which have ben grouped together under
the common head of Continuous. This will take in both the
Flowing and Perpendicular forms in England, as also the Flamboyant
of France, and the contemporary late Gothic of Germany, forms
which differ far more widely from one another than the various
forms of Geometrical , but which agree in carrying on the mullion
into the tracery. And in England the Perpendicular line came in
so very early that its first examples are actually contemporary, not
only with Flowing but with Geometrical forms. In all times of
transition earlier and later forms cannot fail to be used side by
side, and the details which accompany the purely Geometrical and
the purely Flowing tracery differ less from each other than each
does from the details used immediately before and after it. Hence
the Geometrical and the Flowing forms have often been, with some
degree of practical convenience, grouped together under the some-
what unmeaning name of Decorated. But during the whole period
from the time when the simple Lancet windows went out of use
till confirmed Perpendicular became dominant, detail was ever chan-
ging in the direction of the later type of Gothic. The sections of
mouldings and of clustered pillars became less and less bold so ;

does foliage, though it now more commonly, as conspicuously in

the chapter-house at Southwell, directly copies natural forms.
Ornamental arcades with distinct shafts gradually sink into mere
panelling; the triforium gets smaller and smaller; there is a con-
stantly increasing tendency to carry lines straight upwards. The
naves of York and Exeter have much in common but Exeter, both
;

in proportion and detail keeps on a good deal of earlier feeling,

,

while York is an advance in the direction of what was coming.

Exeter is very English ; York has more in common with some of the
great French churches. But the most remarkable example of all is
the work of this date at Ely. The proportions impressed on the
building by the Norman architects, as they influenced the work of
the thirteenth century, influenced that of the fourteenth also. There
is a triforium on a scale such as no architect of the time would have
designed if he had been left to himself; but the details are very
far advanced , and have altogether lost the boldness of the earlier
work to which the fourteenth century reconstruction is adapted. At
Beverley again the nave of the fourteenth century is in many things
adapted to the choir of the thirteenth.
In the matter of towers some of the very grandest in England
,

belong to this time. Several of the great central towers were now
carried up, as at Salisbury, Hereford, Wells, and above all Lincoln,
where the western towers were carried up at the same time. Of
these Salisbury alone had a stone spire; but that at Hereford, and
all three at Lincoln, once had spires of wood covered with lead.
Lichfield alone among English churches, had three stone spires.
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. xlix

At Ely something different from a tower and quite unique in Eng-

land arose. The central tower, which had hitherto stood in fellow-
ship with the single western tower, fell, and was replaced by a
vast octagonal lantern, not exactly a tower, not exactly a cupola,
hut coming nearer to a domical effect than anything else in the
Gothic architecture of England.
The origin of the Perpendicular style, a style peculiar to Eng-
land, iB to he found in the abbey of Gloucester. This was made
out beyond doubt by Professor Willis in his examination of that
church in the year 1860. The distinguishing feature of the style in
the matter of windows is that the mullions are continued in the
tracery, in the shape, not of curved but of right lines. Such right
lines are now and then found in earlier tracery but only incidentally:
:

they now become dominant, and give the character to the style.
But the straight line came in first, not in windows, but in panell-
ing it arose out of a special need in the works carried on at
;

Gloucester by Abbot Wigmore (1329-1337); it is there fully

developed in the panelling, not quite so much so in the window-
tracery. When this date , which is perfectly certain from docu-
ments, was first ascertained by Professor Willis, it showed that the
Perpendicular style was used many years before the date commonly
given to its beginning; and there can be no doubt that it re-
mained for a long time a local style at Gloucester, used there both
in the abbey and in other buildings, but making no way elsewhere.
Its general prevalence began when it was taken up at Winchester,
first by Bishop William of Edington (before 1366) and then by his
successor William of Wykeham (1394-1404). In Edington's work
the style still keeps some slight trace of the earlier style that of
;

Wykeham is fully developed, and clearly set the fashion throughout

the country. Other work of his is to be seen in his two colleges at
Winchester and Oxford, where his chapel and hall at New College
became models for others. In tracing out the growth of this style
we can again, just as we could in the Norman time, mark the per-
sonal action of particular men, which we have been less able to
do in the intermediate styles.
The English Perpendicular style , like the French Flamboyant
which grew up about the same time, was the latest form of Gothic
in England, that which gradually gave way to the introduction of
Italian forms in the sixteenth century. The earlier and the later
examples differ a good deal, but the main principles of the style
remain the same throughout, and the difference between early
and late Perpendicular is certainly not greater than the difference
between the plain Norman of the days of the Conquest and the
enriched Norman of Henry the Second's reign. The leading prin-
ciple of the style is the prominence given to the vertical line in every
thing, a prominence which is often made yet more thorough by the
presenco of strengly marked horizontal lines. This comes out in
Baedeker's reat Britain. 2nd Edit. d
1 HISTORICAL SKETCH

panelling and window-tracery the windows reach a vast size, as

;

the great windows at Winchester, Bath, Beverley, York, and ahove

all Gloucester. There is not so much scope for transitional forms
between the Flowing and the Perpendicular lines as there was be-
tween the Geometrical and the Flowing; still examples are not
wanting; windows in which curved and straight lines are inter-
mingled are seen, as has been said, in the earliest Perpendicular
at Gloucester and also at York. Indeed the growth of the Continuous
style can nowhere be better studied than in the successive woTks
at York: the nave (1291-1329), the presbytery (1361-1370), and
the choir (1380-1400).

In the style which now came in , mouldings lose still more of

their depth ; capitals are less commonly floriated, and with less of
depth when they are ; ornamental arcades altogether give way to
panellings. On
the other hand, the richer buildings become more
loaded with ornament of various kinds than ever. But it is rather
ornament added to the constructive features than the constructive
features themselves brought into ornamental shapes. It is other-
wise however with one very important feature which now for the
first time puts on its full importance. This is that specially English
feature, the wooden roof. This is no longer a mere substitute for a
vault, but a form of equal dignity which is often chosen by pre-
ference. It puts on various shapes. There are the grand hammer-
beam roofs of East-Anglia, which after all seem better suited to halls
than churches; there are the roofs which in a large district on the
borders of Wales are used in churches but which in the West of
,

England are used only in halls, a variety which uses a vast deal of
wood with trefoils and other figures cut in the solid. Then there
are the characteristic coved or cradle roofs of the West of England,
which modern architects are commonly bent on destroying. And
lastly there is the low-pitched tie-beam roof, which is common every-
where, except perhaps in East-Anglia. This last form is connected
with one of the features of the style which has been already men-
tioned, the prominence given to the horizontal line in contrast with
the vertical. This tendency, it should be remembered, came in
before Perpendicular tracery was at all dominant in the windows ; it
begins while the Flowing forms of tracery are still in use, sometimes
even earlier. The roofs and gables became low-pitched, as in one of
the classes of wooden roofs already spoken of the low gable may be
;

seen over the grand Flowing west window of York minster. Out-
side, instead of the high roof, the parapet, pierced or embattled,
becomes a main feature. So with the towers magnificent spires ;

were still built,sometimes in Northamptonshire keeping to the so-

called broach form, but more usually with parapets, pinnacles, and
flying-buttresses. But, as the spire is one form of the high roof,
the tendency of the style is to leave out the spire, and to finish
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. H
the tower Itself with a parapet and pinnacles. Most commonly the
square tower itself is all but sometimes the square is finished with
;

an octagonal sometimes the octagon again supports a spire. In

;

churches again the arches of doors and windows had commonly

been pointed. But all through the fourteenth century, even while
Geometrical tracery is still in use, other alternative forms come in,
and become more usual as Perpendicular advances. A
square-
headed window is often convenient in churches, and constantly so
in houses. The form was therefore used very early , whenever it
was wanted, as also was the segmental arch, most commonly round.
The square-headed form becomes more usual in the Perpendicular
style, but the segmental gives way to the four - centred arch (ans-
wering to the elliptic, three-centred, or flat-topped arch in France
and Sicily), which is used all through the style, but becomes more
common towards the end.
In all these ways the horizontal line comes in after a fashion
in which it does not in the earlier Gothic styles. But the ver-
tical line is still dominant, all the more dominant. The great
work of the Perpendicular style , as applied to ecclesiastical pur-
poses, was to bring out the distinctive type of the great English
parish church as distinguished from the minster. In the interior of
such a church, if the wooden roof is of lower pitch than of old, it
is a substitute for the vault and not a make-shift, and it far more
commonly rests on shafts rising from the ground. Nothing can be
more truly vertical than some of the West of England churches
that follow this type. Even when the shafts do not rise from the
ground, the tall slender pillars, commonly with narrow aTches, have
an upward tendency which the flatter lines of the roof help to bring
out more strongly. The great Perpendicular parish church has
commonly a western tower; the central tower is rather avoided,
and it sometimes gives way to a western one ; the distinction be-
tween nave and chancel becomes less strong, and is sometimes
made wholly by wood work ; aisles to the chancel are more common
than before and chapels are often added beyond the aisles. The
,

apse is still very rare, but it is found at Saint Michael's at Coven-

try, and, as an addition, at Mold and Wrexham in North Wales.
Vaulting is common over small parts of the building, as porches
and chapels, but it is all but unknown over a main body. Ex-
amples are found everywhere ; but there are two districts, Somer-
set and East- Anglia, where fine examples of two distinct types
are specially thick on the ground. The differences in the two
types of roof have been already mentioned. The towers also are
widely different , though singularly stately in both in the East-
;

Anglian churches both the towers and other parts are greatly
affected by their material, which is chiefly flint; cut flint arranged
so as to make forms of panelling is a very distinctive feature. They
r
are also distinguished for the vast number of small windows in the
d*
Hi HISTORICAL SKETCH

clerestory, two in each bay, while in Somerset the large churches

commonly have one large window in each bay, while in the smaller
ones with coved roofs the clerestory is often left out. In York-
shire there is a third type of tower, which evidently follows the
western towers of the minster having a single large belfry-win-
,

dow, where in Somerset there would be two or moTe. In Northamp-

tonshire rich in spires and octagons
, , there is perhaps only one
square tower of great merit, at Titchmarsh. Gloucestershire and
Worcestershire have another type of tower, continued from the be-
ginnings of the Perpendicular style in Gloucester abbey; the
panelling looks as if it were nailed on, which it never does either
in Somerset or in East-Anglia. Of large parish churches in this stylo
(out of the special districts) the two University churches of Ox-
ford and Cambridge may supply good examples also the collegiate
:

(now cathedral) church of Manchester which is purely parochial

,

in its architecture Fairford in Gloucestershire which has a cen-

; ,

tral tower without transepts and which comes within the sixteenth
century and, among very small churches Whiston in Northamp-
; ,

tonshire, (near Castle Ashby, p. 252), from its extraordinary grace

and its extremely late date, 1534. But a full list would be endless;
all that can be done is to pick out a few examples here and there.
In minsters the style is on the whole less happy than in parish
churches. The stateliest example is doubtless to be found in the Per-
pendicular paTts of York but here, though the feeling, as in the
;

earlier nave, is thoroughly Continuous, it is hardly thoroughly Per-

pendicular. The shafts of the clustered pillars have a prominence
unusual in the style, and which gives the building an effect of its
own. And another building which belongs to this period by date can
still less be said to belong to it by style. The nave of Westminster
abbey was built in the fifteenth century and a near examination
,

will show that the details are of that date but the proportions
;

and general effect are utterly unlike anything in the Perpendicular

style; everything is closely adapted to the adjoining work of the
thirteenth century. And, just as in the case of the nave of Ely,
where, in the west front, the architect got free of his model, he
built in the usual fashion of his own time. The series of genuine
Perpendicular buildings begins as we have seen at Gloucester
, ,

and goes on at Winchester. The work of Wykeham at Winchester

keeps all the massiveness and solemnity of earlier style because ,

it is in truth not a rebuilding from the ground but the Norman

,

nave cased in the new style. This should be compared with the
eastern parts of Gloucester, where the Norman work is not cased
but merely overlaid in the peculiar local style, and with the nave
at Canterbury which was rebuilt from the ground. Here we cannot
but feel that there is the same fault as in the Romanesque naves
of Gloucester and Tewkesbury ; the pier-arches are too high and
the clerestory too low ; the triforium has of course vanished. The
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. HU
style perhaps comes out better in a type of building which has a
very lofty clerestory. We see this in Sherborne minster and in
parts of Christchurch in Hampshire. Saint Mary Redcliff at Bris-
tol also comes here, a parish church, but — like Shoreham in
earlier times — ranking architecturally as a minster, and the only
English parish church which is vaulted throughout. It is well to
compare it with great churches of the purely parochial type as ,

Boston, Newark, Saint Michael at Coventry, and Trinity church at

Hull, one of the greatest parish churches in England, supplying a
noble study of tracery, and so far minster-like as to have a cen-
tral tower, but having all the lightness — an enemy might say
flimsiness — of the parochial type, with the slender pillars and
wooden roof. Saint Mary Redcliff was designed for a central tower
which would have been of an oblong shape , the transepts being
narrower than the nave and choir, as at Limoges and some other
French churches. This form was actually carried out in Bath
abbey (1500-1539), the only cathedral church altogether in the Per-
pendicular style, which it shows in a late and for the most part a
poor form. The mouldings are coarse , and the four-centred arch,
often very useful in doorways, windows , and even small chapels,
has thrust itself into the main pier-arches, where it is quite out of
place. The tower is ungraceful, and it was great perversity to make
the belfry -windows and the great east window square-headed.
The one good feature at Bath is the fan-tracery vault of the
choir, imitated in modern times over the nave. This form of roof
is the great contribution of the Perpendicular style to the art of
vaulting. It begins early in the style , as in the cloister at Glou-
cester (1351-77), one of the most perfect examples ; but it did not
come into use over large spaces till much later. The earlier Per-
pendicular vaults forsake the simpler arrangements of earlier times
and do not bring in the compact magnificence of the fan-roof. In
the wooden roofs at York and in many stone roofs, the ribs seem to
run over the vault without much meaning. The flat pier-arches at
Bath point to another tendency of the latest form of the style,
where there almost seems a wish to get rid of piers and arches. In
the two most elaborate examples of late Perpendicular, Saint
George's chapel at Windsor and Henry the Seventh's chapel at
Westminster, the arcades aTe of very little importance. The West-
minster chapel is a wonderful work, but it must be allowed to be
overcharged with ornament; minute enrichment has taken the
place of boldness of design. The really grandest building in late
Perpendicular is the chapel of King's College, Cambridge. Here
the windows and the fan-tracery roof are of the very best kind,
and the ornament throughout , though rich, is not overdone. And
the design is as bold and simple as a Greek temple. In the choir
of a college chapel pier-arches are not needed ; the type of chapel
brought in by William of Wykeham has a short nave of two bays
liT HISTORICAL SKETCH

with of course two arches and one pillar on each side. King's
chapel consists of twelve bays, with no architectural distinction
between nave and choir. There are no aisles, therefore no pier-
arches but there are chapels between the buttresses, as in many
;

French churches.
These three famous chapels, at Westminster, "Windsor, and
Cambridge, have no towers. King's could not have any but a
detached campanile, like Magdalen at Oxford. Otherwise, the Per-
pendicular style which, in the parish church, tends to sacrifice
the central to the western tower, tends in the minster to make
the central tower more predominant than ever. At Winchester,
Gloucester, and Saint Albans, western towers were pulled down,
clearly to give greater predominance to the central one ; and this
at Winchester and Saint Albans without ever actually rebuilding
,

(whatever may have been designed) the old central towers in the
,

new style. At Gloucester the central tower was rebuilt in the

stateliest guise of the local style and it set the fashion to Wor-
,

cester, Malvern, and some smaller examples. On the other hand,

at York the western towers were finished in the new style, while
the central tower kept its Norman massiveness even with Per-
pendicular details. It was seemingly designed to carry some
farther finish, perhaps an imperial crown, like those at Newcastle-
on-Tyne, Edinburgh, and Aberdeen. The York tower may be said
to be in some sort repeated at Beverley, where the mid-tower was
never carried up. The great towers of Durham and its dependency
Howden were carried up with the finish of a smaller square stage,
answering to the octagon in some other cases which was itself to
,

receive a crown. At Durham, as at York, the western towers were

spared, and carried up in the new style. In some cases, both of
larger and smaller churches, a western tower was added to a building
which already had a central tower. So it was at Hereford cathedral,
Malmesbury abbey, Wimborne minster (where the tower of this
date is said to have succeeded an earlier one), Christchurch, Hamp-
shire, and the parish churches of Purton in Wiltshire and Saint
Cuthberht at Wells. These in fact, except in the absence of the
western transept, repeat the outline of Ely as it stood before the
substitution of the octagon for the square central tower. The
strange thing is that this grouping of a central and a western tower,
common in France, was in England not only rare but hardly ever
destined to last when it was used. In most cases either the western
or the central tower has fallen, and it is only at Wimborne and
Purton that this grouping can now be studied.

Meanwhile domestic architecture was fast advancing. In Eng-

land, it should be noticed, nearly all mediaeval architecture that
is not strictly ecclesiastical or military is domestic. The history of
England gave no room for such developments of municipal inde-
 OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. lv

pendence , and thereby of municipal architecture , as were to be

seen in Italy, Germany, and the Netherlands. There are some fine
guild-halls in England, as those of London, York, Exeter, and
Coventry; but the hall itself does not differ essentially from the
hall of a palace or great monastery, and the whole municipal build-
ing nowhere becomes, as often on the continent, a rival to the
minster and the castle. Another thing to be noticed in England
is that country-houses, great and small, manor-houses, parsonages,
houses in villages and open towns , put on an artistic character
much sooner than they did in lands where safety could be had only
either in a castle or in a walled town. The French chdteau com-
monly belongs to the last days of Gothic architecture, and com-
monly supplants an actual castle. In England the simple manor-
house, quite distinct from the castle, existed at least from the
thirteenth century and grew with every developement of art up
,

to the sixteenth. The mere architectural style is of course the

same in a house and in a church of the same date; but some
features are more convenient in domestic buildings ; thus in houses
the square -headed window is more convenient than the pointed,
except in rooms of special dignity, as the hall and chapel. Again
the projecting oriel or bay-window is a specially domestic feature,
for which there is no place in a church. The hall is the main
feature of a mediaeval house, great or small ; at first it was almost
the whole house; gradually the number of rooms increased; the
solar opening into the hall grew into the (with) drawing-room;
towards the end of the fifteenth century the dining-room, as distinct
from the hall, began to creep in. The hall is commonly of the full
height and width of the house, with an open roof; as the art of
making such roofs grew, the old fashion of building halls with
pillars and arches died out. Thus Richard the Second, in rebuild-
ing Westminster hall, the grandest of the class, took away the
arches of William Rufus, and threw the whole into one body, under
one vast timber roof. But sometimes in halls, and more commonly
in barns, the wooden roof is a construction independent of the walls,
and rests on wooden pillars, as in the Bishop's hall at Hereford.
The great oriel window at the upper end of the hall is commonly
a marked feature. The materials of houses depended more on the
district than those of churches, for, though there were wooden
churches , even down to quite late times , especially in Essex and
East-Anglia, yet stone was the usual material. In houses stone
was constantly used in stone districts like Somerset and North-
hamptonshire , while in the western midland counties , timber or
timber and brick, prevailed even in houses of great size (as Speke
Hall near Liverpool), and in the eastern counties brick came into
use very early. Examples of houses of all kinds become more
common as we go on. In the fourteenth century Clevedon^Court in
Somerset is one of the finest; in the fifteenth examples are very
 —

Jvi HISTORICAL SKETCH

common, and at the beginning of the sixteenth English domestic

architecture reaches its perfection in buildings like Cowdray in
Sussex — unluckily dam aged by Are — and Thornbury castle In Glou-
cestershire — unluckily never finished. Cowdray is perhaps the
grandest actual example of a manor-house on a vast scale, keeping
nothing of the character of a castle beyond the gate-house. Thorn-
bury is a mere fragment; but the oriels, round, and not, as usual,
polygonal, are of the most magnificent kind. Both these buildings,
of the reign of Henry the Eighth , belong to the very last days of
Gothic architecture , just before Italian influences came in. The
•work of Wolsey at Hampton Court is of the same kind. Of the
same date too are many of the college buildings at Oxford and
Cambridge the colleges indeed were originally built after the type
;

of large houses; there is hardly any difference in ground-plan

between Haddon Hall in Derbyshire and Queens' College, Cam-
bridge, buildings of the fifteenth century. Some of the gateways
of the Cambridge colleges are specially fine ; and one of the grand-
est pieces of Perpendicular architecture is the Divinity school at
Oxford, with its vast windows and rich vaulted roof. It is a build-
ing by itself, having a design and proportion of its own, quite
unlike that of either a church or a hall.
Barns too, as has been casually implied, were at this time works
of architecture they were plain but not rude, exactly suiting their
;

purpose. The windows are commonly mere slits , hut the gables
and doorways are artistically treated, and the roofs are often
wonders of carpentry. Very fine ones may be seen at Glastonbury,
Wells, Bradford-on-Avon, Frocester in Gloucestershire, and else-
where.
In the middle of the sixteenth century Gothic architecture be-
gan in England, as it had already begun in France, to give way to
the Revived Italian. The change of taste began in the accessory
arts before it touched architecture proper. Thus, at Westminster —
to say nothing of the tomb of Henry the Third and the shrine of
Edward the Confessor, Italian work of the thirteenth century
while Henry the Seventh's chapel is of pure Gothic, though of
the very latest type, his tomb is Italian. So a new taste in wood-
work, cinque-cento or whatever we may choose to call it, begins in
King's College chapel. The change of style in France may be
studied in a very remarkable class of churches of the sixteenth
and the first half of the seventeenth century of which Saint Eustace
at Paris is the head; the general idea, the proportions and the
main lines of the building are still strictly Gothic, but the minuter
details are Italian. In England, where at this time more churches
were pulled down than built up the progress of this age of tran-
,

sition mainly has to be traced in houses. The general conception

remains Gothic; indeed no outline can be more picturesque than
that of an Elizabethan house, with its great windows and endless
 OP ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. Mi
gables. But the Gothic detail loses its purity, and gets mixed up
with Italian features. The Italian details, however, are used after
a Gothic fashion; classical or juasi-classical columns come in again;
but they are used just as the mediaeval builders used their win-
dows and blank arcades, many ranges are placed one over the other.
The earliest house of this kind was most likely Longleat, in the
reign of Edward the Sixth but this, the work of an Italian archi-
;

tect, though still cinque-cento and by no means fully developed

Revived Italian, was too advanced for English taste, and the
struggle of styles may be looked on as going on quite to the time of
the Civil Wars. Indeed in the first half of the seventeenth cen-
tury there is
, ,specially in Oxford what has been called After-
,

Oothic, a distinct return to purer designs. Thus the chapel of

"Wadham college, built by builders from Somerset, is known to be
a work of the seventeenth century, otherwise any one would
have assigned it to the fifteenth. The staircase of Christ Church,
with its single central pillar and fan-tracery, a most bold and ori-
ginal design, is later still, about 1640. In some cases the tracery
of this date forsook the Perpendicular line and fell back upon
Flowing forms.
But meanwhile the more strictly Italian taste was coming in.
Inigo Jones added a classical portico to Saint Paul's, and Arch-
bishop Laud added a porch with twisted columns to Saint Mary's
at Oxford. After the Restoration the Italian taste decidedly pre-
vailed, and any traces of the mediaeval styles are now mere
survivals. But in some districts and under some circumstances the
survivals lasted a long while. Small houses with very good outlines
and with mullioned windows were built into the eighteenth cent-
ury ; in Somerset indeed, perhaps in Northamptonshire, the two
great districts of domestic architecture in stone, the survival may
be said to have met the modern revival ; the mullioned window
never quite went out of use, though it often put on very poor and
meagre forms. But from the time when St. Paul's cathedral was
rebuilt in Italian (1675-1710) till the time when the Houses of
Parliament were rebuilt in Perpendicular(1840-1850), Italian archi-
tecture, varied now and then by attempts at reproducing strictly
Greek fashions, must be looked on as the received style in England.
From the middle of the sixteenth century onwards, the rela-
tions between ecclesiastical and secular architecture become the
exact opposite to what they had been in earlier times. Churehes
were now comparatively seldom built, while secular public build-
ings of all kinds became of more and more importance. Here
is a marked contrast between England and Italy, to some extent
between England and either Germany or France. In all those
countries there was a greater or less tendency far more pre-
,

valent in than in the other two countries, to build new

Italy
churches and to rebuild or recast the old ones in the style which
lviii HISTORICAL SKETCH

had become fashionable. In England there is far less of this. There

is nothing in England answering to the Jesuits' churches on the
continent, to great abbeys like Fulda and Einsiedeln wholly rebuilt
in Italian, or to churches like Wurzburg transformed as far as
might be into Italian from Romanesque or Gothic. The French
fashion of rebuilding the domestic buildings of a monastery in
Italian,but leaving the ancient church, has its parallel in the
designs, sometimes not getting beyond designs but sometimes
more or less fully carried out, for rebuilding various colleges in
Oxford in the prevalent fashion. The rebuilding of London after
the fire caused the building of a good many churches there in the
new style. But on the whole, there is, compared with other
countries, but little in England of ecclesiastical work of this kind.
Saint Paul's stands alone as an Italian church of the first class.
And it should be noticed that Wren, though he despised Gothic
architecture and knew nothing of its details, was quite able, when
he chose, to catch a Gothic outline, as he showed at Westminster and
at Warwick. For at least a hundred years mediaeval architecture
was, as the name Gothic shows, an object of fashionable and
literary contempt, as is nowhere better shown than by several
passages of Addison in the Spectator. A few however, antiquaries
or poets, ventured always to cherish some admiration for the
older fashion, and attention was again drawn to it as part of the
revival of the romantic taste late in the last century. We do
owe something to Horace Walpole after all. The call for a number
of new churches in the first half of the eighteenth century largely
helped on the Gothic revival. There was a very general belief
that Gothic was the right style for a church, but not for any other
building. This would have seemed a strange doctrine to the archi-
tects of any earlier period, pagan or Christian, as they all built
their religious and their secular buildings in the same style. The
earlier attempts at the revived Gothic were naturally very bad in
point of detail, and still worse in point of ecclesiastical arrange-
ment but in point of mere outline we now and then meet with
;

buildings, specially spires in the midland counties, which have

really caught more of the spirit of earlier design, than many more
recent buildings whose detail is immeasureably better.
Along with the practical revival of mediaeval architecture came
the revival of its study. But with this we are hardly concerned,
except so far as it practically influenced buildings. It is clear that
older styles could not be revived till their succession and the nature
of their characteristic detail had been made out, otherwise details
of the thirteenth and the sixteenth century might be jumbled
together. The first at all successful attempt to distinguish the
varieties of English Gothic was made by George Millers, a minor
canon of Ely, in his History of that cathedral. After hiro came
Uicknian, whose useful labours did much to spread knowledge on
 ;

OF ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND. lix

the subject. Since the middle of the present century few churches
have been built in England in any style but some form of Gothic,
though there has been endless diversity of taste and opinion as to
the form of Gothic to be chosen. The style was slower in making
its way into houses and other secular buildings. The building of
the New Houses of Parliament in the latest form of English Gothic
was in one sense the greatest victory of the revival in another way
;

it did it great mischief. For faults which belonged to the building

itself, and which would have been just as keenly felt if the details
had been Italian, were vulgarly attributed to the style chosen.
Since then we have had an Italian Foreign Office, but the latest
great public buildings have again been Gothic, though of another
form.
The history of the Gothic revival can be nowhere better traced
than in the University and College buildings at Oxford. The last
Italian building (if it can be called Italian) was the Taylor Build-
ing in 1842. Before that there had been many attempts at Gothic,
the most successful of which in point of detail was the Martyrs'
Memorial in 1839. Between 1840 and 1850 it seemed established
that the revival was to start from the last days of English Gothic.
This was surely a reasonable doctrine ; no one can wish architec-
ture to remain imitative but a revived art must start from some
;

point, and the last period of good work in past times is surely the
most natural point to start from. From that it may develope afresh
in any direction. But chiefly owing to the writings of Mr. Ruskin,
a new fashion set in. Everything was to be Gothic only it must
;

not be any form of English Gothic. We were to go to Venice and

Verona for details which suited Venice and Verona, but which did
not suit England we were not to learn anything from Cowdray,
;

Thornbury, or Wells. Lastly there has come a stranger fashion still;

of all the styles in the world the one last picked out for imitation
has been the corrupt jumble of Gothic and Italian detail which
prevailed in the time of James the First. This style, if style it
can be called, marks a very interesting stage in the history of art
but surely, for a style to build in, any pure style of any kind
would be better. It is like the macaronic verses with one line
,

in one language and the next in another. On the other hand, some
colleges, like Magdalen and New College, have withstood all these
strange fashions and have steadily built in the latest form of
,

national art.
A modern architect is placed in a position in which no architect
of any other age ever was placed. In all earlier times, Greek,
Roman, Saracen, Mediaeval, Revived Italian, there has been some
one prevalent style in which men built as a matter of course. Even
in periods of transition the only choice lay between the style that
was going out and the style that was coming in, and the result for
a season commonly was a mixture of the two. But now there is
 lx ARCHITECTURAL
no one acknowledged style. We can hardly say that Gothic is now
so fully acknowledged as it was a little time ago, and as to the
form of Gothic there is still no agreement at all. Each architect
practically chooses his own style. That is, he sits down and con-
siders of what past age he shall try and reproduce the architecture.
Such a state of things is altogether new there has been nothing
;

like it at any earlier time. The nineteenth century stands alone

in haTing no one characteristic style. The fact is at least worth
notice in an attempt to sketch the succession of the characteristic
styles of earlier centuries.

Table of the Architectural Styles in England.

\ Primitive or Pre Norman Ronian-
-

I. Romanesque \ esque (pp. xxxiv-xxxvii) Before . . 1066

jNornian 1066—1195
(Early English or
Lancet 1189—1300
Decorated
Perpendicular
}^^ l
iea1
} .... 1300-1377
1377—1547
III. Renaissance or Revived Italian, including Jacobean (see
p. lix), Georgian, Palladian, etc 1547etseq.
The last thirty years or so of each period may be described as a time
of Transition from one style to the following. The Elizabethan or Tudor
style marks the transition from Gothic to Renaissance.

Glossary of Architectural Terms used in the Handbook.

Abacus, the tablet or slab above Bailey, court-yard of a castle.
the capital of a column. Bap, the part of the building be-
Aisle, the side-building of a church tween two pillars in the nave of a
(or hall), attached to the main church, or any similar individual
body, commonly at a lower height. of a series of repetitions.
Apse, the circular or polygonal end- Bay-window, a projecting window
ing of a church or its main body, of any shape, built up from the
commonly of the E. limb, in Ger- ground, often called Bow-window.
many often at both ends. Boss, a mass of carving at the inter-
Arcade, a series of arches supported section of the ribs of a vault, etc.
by piers or columns, either open Broach Spire, a spire springing from
or backed by masonry. a tower without the intervention
Arches may be Round (semicircular, of a parapet or other architectural
etc.) or Pointed (Lancet, etc.). A feature to mark the transition.
Stilted Arch is one in which the Buttress, an external support to the
curve begins above the impost wall of a building; Flying Buttress,
(q. v.). The Four-centred or Tudor one supporting an upper wall with
Arch is a depressed form, in which which it is connected by an arch
the curves must be referred to four above a lower part of the building
different centres. A Containing Arch (as the aisle of a church).
is the outer arch of a window, Campanile, bell tower (Ital.).
enclosing the smaller arches at the Cathedral Church, a church contain-
top of the lights (q. v.). Segmental ing the cathedra or seat of a bis-
Arch, one forming a segment of a hop. A Conventual Church is a
circle. church served by monks or regular
Architrave, the lowest member of the clergy; a Collegiate Church is one
entablature, resting on the abacus served by a body of canons or
(see above) and connecting; one other secular clergy. A Minster is
column with another. a great church, commonly cathe-
Ashlar, hewn or squared stone used dral, conventual, or collegiate.
in building. i Chancel, the same as Choir (q. v.).
 GLOSSARY. lxi

Chantry, a small chapel over or near Herring-bone Work, masonry in which

the tomb of the founder, used for the stones are laid aslant instead
the chanting of masses for his soul. of flat.
Chapter-house, the place of meeting Impost, the point where the arch
of a chapter or monastery. rises from its piers.
Chevron, zigzag moulding or orna- Jamb, the side of a door, window,
mentation. or archway.
Choir, the part of a church set apart Lady Chapel, a chapel dedicated to
for the clergy and other officials, the Virgin_Mary.
commonly the E. part, hut in Lich date, a covered gateway at the
Germany often at both ends. entrance to a churchyard, through
Clerestory, the uppermost of the three which the bodies of the dead are
stages of a great church, standing carried (A. S. lie, a corpse).
clear above the aisles. Lierne-ribs, the smaller intermediate
Cloister, a covered court in a mon- ribs in a vault, not rising from
astery or college, commonly attach- the impost.
ed to the church.
Light, awindow- opening, compart-
Column, the support of an arch or ment of a window.
entablature, keeping somewhat of
Moulding, a general term applied to
classical style and proportion.
all the varieties of outline or con-
Corbel, an ornamented projection or
bracket supporting a weight. tour given to the angles of the
Cornice, the highest member of the
various subordinate parts and fea-
tures of buildings, whether pro-
entablature.
jections or cavities, such as cor-
Crocket, a conventional tuft of foliage
nices, capitals, bases, etc. (Parker).
used in the ornamentation of ga-
bles, etc. Mullion, an upright bar of stone di-
Crypt, a vault beneath a building, viding a window into compart-
wholly or partly under ground. ments (lights).
Diaper, a uniform ornamental pattern Nave, the main body of a church,
covering a flat surface. occupied by the general congre-
Dormer-window, a window rising from gation.
a sloping roof and covered by a moulding partly
Ogee, a curved line or
small gable. concave and partly convex (adjec.
Dormitory, the sleeping-place of a Ogival).
monastery. Oriel, a window like a bay-window,
Entablature, the horizontal mass sup- but supported by corbels and not
ported by the columns in Greek resting on the ground.
architecture, divided into Archi- Panelling, ornamentation of a flat
trave, Frieze, and Cornice (q. v.). surface by recessed compartments.
Flamboyant Style, the late-Gothic style Pargeted, adorned with plaster orna-
of France, so called from the flame- mentation.
like form of its tracery, occasion- Pier, the support of an arch, whether
ally met with in England. taking the form of a column or
Frieze, the middle member of the not.
entablature, often enriched with Presbytery, the part of a church con-
sculpture. taining the high-altar.
Oalilee, a porch or chapel at the Refectory, the dining-hall of a mon-
entrance to a church ; see foot-note astery.
at p. 412. Reredos, the screen at the back of
Gargoyle, a projecting carved water- an altar.
spout, usually in the form of a Ribs, the raised bars of masonry mark-
grotesque animal. ing the joints or intersections of
Oroin, the curve or edge formed by a vault.
the intersection of two vaults. Rusticated Masonry, masonry marked
Half-timbered or Timbered Buildings, by deeply grooved joints round
buildings consisting of wooden each stone, the faces of the stones
beams and posts, with the inter- being generally left rough.
vening spaces filled up with plas- Sedilia, the seats for the officiating
ter, clay, or brick-work. clergy* on the 8. side of the choir,
Hammer -beam, a large projecting near the altar.
beam used to support the rafters Solar, upper room or loft, withdraw-
of a roof in place of a tie-beam. ing room.
 ;

Ixii ANCIENT MONUMENTS.

Spandrel i
the space (usually trian- Triforiwm ('thoroughfare'), the second
gular) between the span or curve stage or story of a church, between
of an arch and the right angle the nave-arcade and the clerestory
enclosing it. (q, v.). In its fully developed form
Splay, the embrasure, or sloping side a passage runs round it.
of a window-opening. Vault, Vaulting the arched ceiling
,

Tie-beam, a transverse beam holding of a building, of stone or brick.

together the sides of a roof or wall. The simplest and most ancient form
Tracery, the ornamental work in the of vault over a rectangular area
heads of windows, etc., formed by is the Cylindrical, Barrel, or Wag-
the crossing or interweaving of bars gon Vault, which springs from two
of stone. Plate Tracery , the sim- parallel walls. Groined Vaulting
plest form, consists, as it were, of is formed by the intersection of
openings punched or pierced in a vaults crossing each other at right
stone surface. In Geometrical Tra- angles. Fan Tracery Vaulting, which
cery the forms are those of regular seems to be peculiar to English
geometrical figures , while in the Perp. architecture, is a form in
later Flowing Tracery great irregu- which all the ribs have the same
larity of outline prevails. curve and produce an effect some-
Transept, the cross-limb of a church what resembling the sticks of a
(or barn). fan.

Ancient Monuments
t>y

General Pitt Rivers, Government Inspector of Ancient Monuments.

The Ancient Monuments Act of 1882 is purely permissive. It enables
the owners of pre-historic and other ancient monuments, who desire to
do so, to place them under the guardianship of H. M. Commissioners of
Works, after which it becomes illegal to destroy them. They continue to
be the property of their owners, as before, but subject to their being pre-
served as National Monuments, and these provisions are binding on future
owners. The fact of a monument being under the Act is consequently no
criterion of its historic value; it merely represents a voluntary arrange-
ment between the Government and the owner. Some of the most import-
ant are not included, whilst those that are under the Act, amounting to
some 40 in all, are not in all cases those which would have been selected
as the best examples. They afford, however, a very fair sample of the
class to which they belong. In the following brief notice of some of the
principal Ancient Monuments of Great Britain, the letter (I) is appended
to those which are included under the Act.
Stone Circles and Collections of Standing Stones. The majority of these
appear to have been sepulchral, but their uses probably varied in different
localities. Amongst these, Stonehenge (p. 101) stands pre-eminent. Its date
has never been ascertained, nor is it likely that much light will be thrown
upon it, until the ground around has been carefully excavated and exam-
ined. It has suffered chiefly from the elements, and is liable to further in-
jury from the same cause. Amongst other monuments of the same class, the
most important are The King of Brogar, in the Orkneys, 15 M. from Kirk-
:

wall (p. 511) Callernish (I), in the Island of Lewis, 16 M. from Stornoway
;

the Stone Circle on Castle Rigg (I), near Keswick, Cumberland; Long Meg
and her Daughters (p. 374); the Rollrich or Eollright Stones (I; p. 187);
and the Circle at Stanton Drew (I; p. 121). —
Cromlechs. These consist
of upright stones, surmounted by one or more cap-stones and they have
,

generally formed chambersjfor the'reeeption of the dead, covered by long

or round mounds, which have been destroyed, leaving the chambers bare.
They belonged for the most part to the Stone Age. Amongst them may
be mentioned Kits Coty House (I ; p. 34) ; Plas Newydd in Anglesey
,

—
:

([>. 289); and the Pentre Evan (I) in Pembrokeshire. Chambered Tumuli.
Among the best examples are the burial places of the Stone Age folk at
Stoney Littletun (I), near Wellow, Somersetshire, 5 M. from Bath; the
 ANCIENT MONUMENTS. Mii

Tumulus at Pley (I), G M. to the N.W. of Stroud Gloucestershire and

, ;

the Chambered Mound at Maeshowe. Long Barrows, of the same pe-

riod , but without chambers . are to be seen in various parts of Great
Britain.— Bound Barrows. The graves of the Bronze Age people are to
be seen spread over the greater part of Great Britain. Some -qf the best,
including the so-called Bowl Barrows, Bell Barrows, and Disc Barrows,
are to be seen on Salisbury Plain, near Stonehenge, or on the road from
Salisbury to Blandford, near Woodyates, about 12 M. from Salisbury. —
British Camps. These usually occupy commanding positions, on the tops
of hills, and are surrounded by one or more banks and ditches. They
were probably used as places of refuge for the inhabitants of the districts
surrounding them, when attacked by neighbouring tribes , and many are
known to have been subsequently occupied in Roman times. Maiden
Castle (p. 97) is one of the most elaborate examples of these structures.
The entrance to the main entrenchment is covered by a series of earth-
works, resembling the Demi-Lunes of a modern fortification. Old'Sarum
(Sorbiodunum ; p. 101) was probably originally a British Camp, though
much altered in Saxon and Norman times. From its historical associations
it is one of the most interesting monuments of this class in the country.
Cadbury Camp (p. 122) ; Worlebury, on the hill above Weston-super-Mare
(p. 127); Cisbury (p. 53); Barbury Castle, between Swindon and Marl-
borough; and the Black and White Catherthuns (I), 5 M. from Brechin,
Forfarshire, may also be mentioned as some of the most interesting. —
Places of Worship and Assembly. These differ from the Camps in having
their ditches inside of the ramparts, instead of outside, or in having banks
without ditches. The most important, on account of its great size, is un-
doubtedly Avebury (p. 108). This has a circle of large stones within the
ditch, and other smaller circles of stones formerly existed in the interior,
which are now partly destroyed. Arbor Low (I; p. 372) is another struc-
ture of the same character, having a circle of 32 stones in the interior,
all of which have fallen; the Circle on Eyam Moor (I; p. 368) is a
smaller example of the same class; Arthur's Round Table, near Penrith,
has a bank and ditch, but no stone circle; Mayborough, close to it, his a
bank constructed of carried stone; the Circles at Thornboroiigh, near Tan-
field, Yorkshire , are of the same class ; the Circle at Knowlton , 7 M. to
the N. of Wimborne, completes the list of these structures. The latter,
though of small relief and little known, is interesting from having an
early Norman church in the centre , which in all probability repla ced
some earlier pagan place of worship. — Dykes and Continuous Entrench-
ments. The Wall of Antoninus, between the Firth of Forth and Firth of
Clyde, marking, as it does, the most northern boundary of the Roman
Empire, is a monument of interest, not only to Scotchmen, but to the
whole civilized world. It is now almost entirely destroyed, with the ex-
ception of a well-preserved portion near Falkirk. The Roman Wall be-
tween Carlisle and Newcastle is comparatively well-preserved. One of the
most interesting of the several Camps, along the line , is that at Chesters
(Cilurnum), near Hexham. Traces of the great entrenchment called Wans-
dyke, having its ditch to the N., may be seen in several places, run-
ning from the Severn on the W., to Savernake Forest on the E. The best
position for seeing this dyke is at Shepherd's Shore, 41. to the N. of De-
vizes. Bokerly Dyke (p. 102), 11 M. to the W. of Salisbury, on the Roman
Road to Badbury Rings, is an entrenchment of high relief, 4 M. in length,
with a ditch to the N. E. It is of special interest, on account of its hav-
ing lately been proved to have been constructed subsequently to the
reign of Honorius, 600 Boman coins having been found in the rampart,
dating up to that period. It probably formed part of the defensive ar-
rangements of the Romanized Britons against their Saxon invaders. Offa's
Dyke (p. 203), running from the Severn northwards to the mouth of the Dee,
and several dykes in Norfolk end Suffolk may also be noted. — Ancient Flint
Mines of the Stone Age. The people of the Stone Age were in the habit of
sinking shafts, 30 or 40 feet deep, in chalk districts, to obtain the kind of
flint, suitable for the construction of tteir implements, and wen the proper
vein of flints was reached, galleries were driven along it in all directions.
lx i v ANCIENT MONUMENTS.
The best example of these is to be seen within the Camp at Cisbury
(p. 53),near Worthing. Another similar collection of flint mines is at
Grimes Graves , near Brandon , Suffolk. —
Vitrified Forts. Examples of
this class of fortification may
be seen at the Hill of Noath, 7 M. to the S.
of Hnntly, Aberdeenshire; at Knockfarrel, near Strathpeffer, Roasshire; at
Craig-Phadrig, near Inverness (p. 493) at Finhaven, near Aberlemno, For-
;

farshire; and Ban Mac Uisneachan, in Loch Ective. —

Cup-marked Stones.
At Ilkley Moor, in Yorkshire; at Drumtroddan (I), 2 M. from Port William,
Wigtonshire; at Aberfeldy, Fortingale, and elsewhere in Perthshire; at
Blackshore, West Kilbride, Argyleshire, and many other places. —
Pictish
Towers. The most perfect example of this class of structure is at Mousa (I),
in Shetland (p 512) ; others are at Carloway (I), 15 M. to the W. of Stornoway,
.

in the Island of Lewis; at Glenelg (I), on the W. coast of Invernessshire;

at Golspie, Sutherlandshire ; and the Dun of Dornadilla, Durness, Suther-
landshire. The most southern monument of this class, somewhat en-
larged and modified in form, is Edin's Hall, near Dunse, Berwickshire. —
Sculptured Stones. These are perhaps the most remarkable monuments in
Scotland, Wales, and the north of England, belonging to the period of the
Celtic Church. Many of them are elaborately carved with the interlaced
patterns and symbols that are peculiar to this period, and by examining
a large series of them, the peculiar forms of the Celtic Cross may be traced
in their development from the Chi-Rho Monogram of the Catacombs at
Rome. Of these, the Pillars at Kirkmadrine (I), 5M. to the S. of Stranraer,
Wigtonshire, are inscribed with the monogram, and are reputed to be the
oldest monuments of this class in Scotland. Others of early type may be
seen in the ruined Priory at Whithorn in the same county. Amongst the
most interesting in other parts of Scotland and Wales are the High Cross
at Ruthwell (p. 462), remarkable for its runic inscription; Fowlis Wester,
5 M. to the N.E. of Crieff; St. Madoes, near Glenearse Station, 7 M. to the
E. of Perth; Rossie Priory, 3 M. to the N. of Inchture Station, in Perth-
shire; Glarais, 6 M. to the S.E. of Forfar, and Eassie, not far from it;
three at Aberlemno, 6 M. to the N.E. of Forfar; a large number from the
neighbourhood of Meigle, in Perthshire, collected in the old school-house
there; Dyce and Monymusk, in Aberdeenshire; and many others. The
largest monument of this class in Scotland is the Suenos Stone, 1 M. to
the E. of Forres, which is elaborately carved with figures on both sides.
In Wales, monuments of a similar character are in the church at Llant-
wit Major (p. 196); several crosses in the grounds at Margam, Glamorgan-
shire (p. 196); an inscribed cross, with a Chi-Rho Monogram, at Penmachno,
4'/2 M. from Bettws-y-Coed (p. 308); and elsewhere. — Ogham Stones.
Stones with Ogham Inscriptions may be seen at Hackness, 5 M. to the
N. W. of Scarborough, in Yorkshire. In Scotland at Logie Elphinstone,
in Aberdeenshire; at Newton, in the New House, near Inverurie, Aber-
deenshire; in the Museum at Golspie, Sutherlandshire, and in the Museum
of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, in Edinburgh. In Wales, at
Eglwys Cymmyn, 6 M. from Whitland ; at Carreg Fyrddyn, near Abergwili,
and in the churchyard of Llandawke, Carmarthenshire; at St. Dogmael;
Dugoed, near Clydai, and in Clydai Churchyard, 6 M. to the S.W. of New-
castle-Emlyn (p. 202); near Margam (p. 196), and elsewhere. — Bound
Belfry Towers. Of these structures, of which such a number are to be
seen in Ireland, Scotland possesses two examples viz. at Brechin (p. 499),
—
:

und Abernethy, in Perthshire. Both are in good preservation. Ro-

mano-British Villages. The two most interesting villages of this period
are those at Woodcuts and Rotherly (p. 102). They are instructive, on
account of having been thoroughly explored, and the excavations in them,
illustrated by means of a series of upwards of 30 models, which are ex-
hibited in the Museum at Farnbam (p. 102), not far from their sites.
The above has no pretension to being a complete list of even the most
important pre-historic and ancient Monuments of Great Britain. It may
however serve to direct the traveller to some of the most accessible spec-
imens of each class.
Jtngrajth. An*t. 'v, Wa*Q*]' *. DflbUj I-fipi
 1. London. +
Arrival. Cabs (see p. 3) are in waiting at the railway-stations and
landing-stages, and Private Omnibuses, holding 6-10 persons, may he ob-
tained at the chief stations on previous application to the Railway Co.
(fare Is. per mile, with a minimum of 3s.). Those who arrive by water
have sometimes to land in small boats (6(1. for each person, 3d. for each
trunk). The watermen with badges are alone bound by the tariff.
Railway Stations. There are in all about 200 railway-stations in Lon-
don, including those of the Underground Railway (see below) and the
suburban stations of the ordinary lines. The following are the terminal
stations of the chief lines. 1. Euston Square Station, near Euston Road
and Tottenham Court Road, for the trains of the London and North
Western Railway to Rugby, Chester, N. Wales, Holyhead (for Ireland),
Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Carlisle, and Scotland. 2. St. Pancrat
Station, Euston Road, for the trains of the Midland Railway to Bedford,
Derby, Nottingham, Leeds, Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle, and Scotland.
3. King^s Cross Station, Euston Road, adjoining the last, for the trains of
the Great Northern Co. to Peterborough, Sheffield, York, Hull, Lincoln,
Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle, and Scotland. 4. Paddington Station,
for the trains of the Great Western Railway to the West and South-West
of England, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, and
Wales. 6. Victoria Station, Victoria Street, S. W., a double station for
the trains of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, the London, Bright-
on, and South Coast Railway, and various suburban lines. 6. Waterloo
Station, Waterloo Road, for the trains of the London and South Western
Railway to Reading, Windsor, and the South-West of England. 7. London
Bridge Station, for the Brighton and South Coast Railway. 8. Charing
Cross Station, close to Trafalgar Square, for the trains of the South Eastern
Railway to Tunbridge, Canterbury, Folkestone, Dover, etc., and of local
lines. 9. Cannon Street Station, the City terminus for the same lines as
Charing Cross. 10. Ludgate Hill, and 11. Holborn Viaduct, City termini
of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and of local lines. 12. Liverpool
Street Station, for the trains of the Great Eastern Railway to Cambridge, Lin-
coln, the Eastern Counties, and local stations. 13. Broad Street Station, adjoin-
ing the last, for the local trains of the North London Railway. 15. Fenchurch
Street Station, near the Bank, for Blackwall, Gravesend, Southend, etc.
Steamers. Steamers ply from London to all parts of the world.
Those from the Continent of Europe, Scotland, etc., land their passengers
at wharves below London Bridge (landing, see above), while the large
Oceanic liners enter the docks lower down the river, the passengers, when
necessary, being sent on to London by special trains. American visitors
to England usually land at Liverpool (p. 823) or Southampton (p. 80). The
custom-house formalities are similar to those described at p. xix. —
Numerous River Steamboats ply on the Thames between Hampton Court on
the W. and Southend and Sheerness on the E., calling at about 45 inter-
mediate piers, most of which are on the N. bank. Between London Bridge,
Chelsea, and intermediate stations the steamers ply at intervals of 10 min.
in summer (fares >/2-2<l.), between Westminster and Greenwich every
/t hr. (3<i.), and between Chelsea and Kew every '/a hr. (6<2.).
l

Hotels. The following are large hotels, with rooms at various rates,
adjoining the principal railway-stations: Grand Midland, St. Pancras
Station; Euston, Euston Square Station ; Geeat Northern, King's Cross;

t For a detailed description of London the traveller is referred to

.Baedeker's Handbook for London (7th edit., 1889), as nothing more is at-
tempted here than a bare outline of the principal sights and a small se-
lection of practical information.
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. \
 ;

2 Route 1. LONDON. Hotels.

Great Western, Paddinytnn Station; Charing Cross, Charing Cross

Station, Strand; Geosvenor, Victoria Station ; Holborn Viaduct, Holborn
Viaduct Station; Cannon Street, Cannon St. Station; Great Eastern,
Liverpool St. ; Terminus, London Bridge Station. — Other large hotels
belonging to companies: Mktropole, Victoria, Grand, Northumberland
Avenue, Charing Cross; Savoy, Thames Embankment, overlooking the
river; Buckingham Palace, Buckingham Palace Gate; Westminster Pa-
lace, Windsor, Victoria St., Westminster; Langham, Portland Place;
First Avenue, Holborn Inns of Court, High Holborn ; Alexandra, 16 St.
;

George's Place, Hyde Park Corner. R. & A. at these generally from 4s.
Gd. or 5s. upwards, table d'hote D. 5-6s. — At the W. End: Claeidge's,
49 Brook St., Grosvenor Sq., aristocratic and expensive; Albemaele, Albe-
marle St.; Buckland's, 42 Brook St.; Berkeley, 77 Piccadilly; Beistol,
Burlington Gardens ; Thomas's, 25 Berkeley Sq. ; Continental, 1 Regent St.;
Lihmee's, 2 George St., Hanover Sq.; Queen's Gate, 98 Queen's Gate ; South
Kensington, Queen's Gate Terrace; Cadogan, 75 Sloane St.; Nobeis's,
48 Russell Road, Addison Road Station; Bailey's, Gloucester Road; and
many others in the streets leading out of Piccadilly, Regent St., and Bond
St. The accommodation at these West End hotels is generally good and
the terms high: R. & A. 5s., D. 5- 10s. — In or near Trafalgar Sq. and the
Strand Morley's, Trafalgar Sq. ; Golden Cross, Somerset, Haxell's,
:

Strand (Nos. 452, 162, 371); Peevitali, 14 Arundel St., Haymarket;

Hummums, Tavistock, (R., B., & A. 7s. 6d.), Covent Garden, Bedford,
Covent Garden; Arundel, 19 Arundel St., on the Thames Embankment.
There are also numerous quiet family hotels in the streets leading from
the Strand to the Thames. Charges at these somewhat less R. & A. from
—
:

3s. Bd., D. from 3s. In Bloomsbury: Buer's (R. 2s. 6d.), Rowland's,
Queen Sq. (Nos. 11, 14), less pretending; Bedford, 93 Southampton Row;
Horseshoe, Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Road (Nos. 264, 235), com-
mercial. —
In Holborn Ridler's, Wood's, Furnival's Inn (quiet); Imperial,
:

Holborn Viaduct; Cocker's, 19 Charterhouse Sq. (quiet). —

In Fleet Street
and the City: Anderton's, Peele's, Fleet St. (Nos. 162, 177); Cathedral,
48 St. Paul's Churchyard; De Keysek's Royal, Embankment, Blackfriars, a
large house (R. & A. from 5s., D. 4s.); Albion, 172 Aldersgate St. ; Geeen
Dragon, 188 BishopsgateWithout City of London,11 Bishopsgate St. Within ;
;

Seyd's, 39 Finsbury Sq. (R. & B. 5s. 6d.), etc. — Temperance Hotels : West
Central, 97 Southampton Row; Armfield's, South Place, Finsbury; Wild's,
30 Ludgate Hill ; Insull's, Burton Crescent, Brunswick Sq., W. C
Boarding Houses and Peivate Lodgings are generally easily obtain-
able in London, through application to a respectable house-agent or by ad-
vertisement. The dearest and best are in the West End e.g. in the streets
:

leading out of Piccadilly and St. James's St. The neigbourhood of the British
Museum is another convenient quarter for boarding and lodging houses at
more moderate prices (R. from 15*., R. with board from 30s. a week).
Restaurants. "Holborn, 218 High Holborn; Criterion, Regent Circus,
two of the largest and best-know n restaurants in London ; "St. James's
Hall, 69 Regent St. and 25 Picca illy; "Verrey, "Cafe" Royal, ^Burlington,
Kiihn, Regent St., first-class and expensive; "Galti, Adelaide St. and 436
Slrand; Simpsons, Gaiety, Romano, Strand (Nos. 101, 343, 399); Savoy Hotel
(see above), with open-air restaurant, high charges; Cavour, 20 Leicester Sq.
"Kettner, 29 Church St., Soho (French; somewhat expensive); "Monico,
15 Tichborne St. ; Frascati, 26 Oxford St. ; -Rainbow, Cock, Fleet St. (Nos. 15,
22); Old Cheshire Cheese, 16 Wine Office Court, Fleet St. (quaint old rooms);
Lake & Turner, 49 Cheapside; Pimm's, 3 Poultry; "London Tavern, 53 Fen-
church St. ; 'Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate (an interesting mediieval building,
handsomely fitted up); White Hart, 63 Borough High St., Southwark;
Three Tuns Tavern, Billingsgate Fish Market, Lower Thames St. (fish-dinner,
from 4 to 5 p. m., 2«.). —
Oysters: Scott, 18 Coventry St., Haymarket;
Rule, 38 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden ; Pimm, 3 Poultry ; Lightfoot, 22
Lime St. ; Smith, 357 Strand.
Simpson, Qatti, Criterion, Kiihn, Verrey, Cafi Royal, Monico,
Cafes.
see above;Vienna Cafi, corner of Oxford St. and Hart St., near the British
"

Museum; Cafi de Paris, Ludgate Hill; Baker's, 1 Change Alley, Cornhill.

 Cabs. LONDON. 1. Route. 3

Cabs. The 'Four-wheelers' have seats for four persons inside, and the
Hansoms, or two-wheeled cabs, have seats for two persons, though often
used by three. The latter are the faster and more comfortable. The fares
are reckoned by distance, unless the cab is expressly hired by time, the
rate being Qd. per mile or fraction of a mile, with a minimum of Is.
Each pers. above two 6d. extra for the whole hiring. Beyond the 4-mile
radius from Charing Cross the fare is Is. per mile. Per hour 2*. for four-
wheelers and 2s. 6<J. for hansoms ; each addit. l /i hr. 6<2. or 8d. For each
article of luggage carried outside 2d. Each driver is bound to produce
the authorised Book of Distances if required. In cases of attempted im-
position the passenger should demand the cabman's number, or order him
to drive to the nearest police court or station. A rough-and-ready means
of calculating fares is to allow Id. per minute in a hansom (less for four-
wheelers).
Omnibuses, of which there are at least 200 lines, traverse the streets
in all directions from about 8 a.m. till midnight. The destination of each
'bus and the principal streets through which it passes are painted on
the outside. 'Buses keep to the left in driving along the street, and stop
when hailed. To prevent mistakes, the passenger should mention his
destination to the conductor on entering. The fares are very low, gener-
ally ranging from 1
fed. to 4<£.
Tramways. Several lines are in operation in the outlying districts.
The cars are comfortable and the fares moderate (i-4(J.).
Coaches. During summer well-appointed stage-coaches, generally start-
ing from Northumberland Avenue, ply to various places of interest round
London, affording, in fine weather, a very pleasant way of seeing the
scenery.
Theatres. London contains about 65 theatres, most of which are in
or near the Strand. Opera is performed at Her Majesty's Theatre or Opera
House, Haymarket, and the Royal Italian Opera or Covent Garden Theatre.
The largest theatre is Drury Lane Theatre, for spectacular plays, panto-
mimes, etc. Among the other leading theatres are the Lyceum (Mr. Henry
Irving and Miss Ellen Terry), the Haymarket, St. James's, Savoy (Gilbert
and Sullivan's operas), Princess's, Adelphi, Strand, Gaiety, Vaudeville, Globe,
Royal Court, Toole's, Garrick, Shaftesbury, Lyric, Terry's, Olympic, Comedy,
and Royalty.
Music Halls. Alhambra, Empire, Leicester Square (with elaborate
ballets); London Pavilion, Piccadilly Circus; Tivoli, Strand; Trocadero,
Shaftesbury Avenue; Oxford, 14 Oxford St., and many others. Concerts —
of high-class music are given at St. James's Hall, the Royal Albert Hall,
the Crystal Palace, St. George's Hall, Prince's Hall, etc.
Places of Entertainment. Tussaud's Waxworks, Marylebone Road;
German Reed's Dramatic Entertainment, St. George's Hall; Egyptian Hall,
Piccadilly; Moore and Burgess Minstrels (Christy MiDStrels), St. James's
Hall; Royal Aquarium, Westminster; Olympia, near the Addison Road
Station, Kensington (a large skating-rink) ; Panorama of Niagara, York
St., Westminster (adm. Is.).
Exhibitions of Pictures. Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Burlington House,
Piccadilly (exhibition of works of modern British artists in summer;
adm. Is.); Grosvenor Gallery; 137 New
Bond St. (Is.); New Gallery, 121 Re-
gent St. (1*.); Royal Society of Painters in Water-Colours, 5 Pall Mall East
(1*.); Royal Institute, of Painters in Water -Colours, 191 Piccadilly (1*.);
Dudley Gallery, Egyptian Hall; Royal Society of British Artists, Suffolk
St., Pall Mall; Dori Gallery, 35 New Bond St. (Is.)
United States Minster, Hon. Robert T. Lincoln, 123 Victoria St., S.W.
(11-3); Consul, John C. New, Esq., 12 St. Helen's Place, Bishopsgate, E. C.
The Lady Guide Association, 16 Cockspur St., Charing Cross, gives
information of all kinds to travellers.

The accompanying table shows the principal sights of London, with

the hours and other conditions of admission.

J*
4 Route 1. LONDON. Principal Sights.

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 Charing Cross. LONDON. 1, Route. 5

London, the metropolis of the British Empire and the largest

city in the world, lies in the S.E. of
England, on both banks of the
river Thames, and. embraces parts of the four counties of Middlesex,
Essex, Kent, and Surrey. At the census of 1881 the aggregate pop-
ulation of the metropolitan parliamentary boroughs (conterminous
with the new County of the City of London) was 3,963,307 it is ;

now about 4^2 millions. The city has doubled in size within the
last half-century, being now about 15 M. long from E. to W., and
9 M. wide from N. to S., and covering 122 sq. M. of ground. The
area included in the Metropolitan Police District, extending for a
radius of 15 M. from Charing Cross, amounts to 690 sq. M. and
contains considerably over 5 million inhabitants.
The principal and larger part of London lies on the N. bank of
the Thames, and includes the City, or commercial and money-making
quarter on the E., and the fashionable West End, with the palaces
of the Queen and the nobility and most of the sights frequented by
visitors. The manufacturing quarters on the right bank of the
Thames, and also the outlying districts to the N. and E. are com-
paratively uninteresting to strangers.
At what period the Britons settled on the spot now occupied by Lon-
don, we have no means of knowing; but the British settlement became
a Roman station in the reign of the Emp. Claudius (41-54 A. D.) and
received the name of Londiniurn, evidently an adaptation of the British
name Llyndun (from Llyn, a pool, and Din or Dun, a hill-fort). Under
the Romans London became a commercial city of no little importance,
and afterwards, as capital of one of the Saxon kingdoms, it continued to
advance rapidly. It became practically the capital of England in the
time of Canute, and received a charter from William the Conqueror.
The present form of its Corporation dates from the close of the 12th cen-
tury. In the 13-15th cent, the city suffered severely from fires, pesti-
lences, and the outbreaks of Wat Tyler (1380) and Jack Cade (1450). The
Great Plague of 1664-66 carried off about 100,000 of its citizens, and the
Great Fire of 1666 destroyed 13,000 houses. Since then its history has
been in the main one of constant progress and growth, the stages of which
are best marked by the erection of its principal public buildings and by
public improvements of all kinds.
Charing Cross, which is the official centre of London, from
which the cab-radius, etc., are measured, and also practically the
centre of the London of the sight-seer, is the open space to the S.
of Trafalgar Square, between the Strand and Whitehall. The name
is probably derived from the ancient village of Cherringe. *Tra-
falgar Square, one of the finest open spaces in London, contains
the Nelson Column and statues of Sir Henry Havelock, Sir Chas.
Napier, Qeorge IV., and Gen. Gordon. To the N.E. is the church
of St. Martin's in the Fields, by Gibbs.
On the N. side of Trafalgar Square stands the **National Gal-
lery, erected in 1832-38 and enlarged in 1860, 1876, and 1887
(adm., see p. 4 catalogues Is. and 6d). From the large number
;

of artists represented, the collections it contains are of the highest

value to the student of art, and there is no lack of masterpieces or
the first rank. The Italian and Netherlandish Schools are admirably
 ;

6 Route 1. LONDON. National Gallery.

represented, the French and Spanish less fully. The Older British
Masters are well illustrated, and the large collection of Turner's
landscapes is unrivalled, but the English water-colourists are al-
most unrepresented. About 1100 pictures in all are exhibited.
Rooms I-IX., reached by the central staircase, contain the Italian
pictures; RE. X-XII. the Flemish and Dutch; R. XTII. the late Italian;
R. XIV. the French ; R. XV. the Spanish RE. XVI-XVII. (at the head of
;

the staircase to the right) the old British; RR. XIX-XXI. the modern
British; and E. XXII. the Turner Collection. In the basement are a
collection of water-colours by Turner and others, some monochrome draw-
ings by Rubens and Van Dyck, several paintings belonging to the National
Portrait Gallery (right), water-colour copies of early Italian painters, and
copies of Velazquez and Rembrandt (left).
Among the chief treasures of the Gallery are Raphael's 'Madonna degli
Ansidei' (No. 1171, R. VI.; bought in 1884 for 70,000/.), Pope Julius II.
(27 , R. VI) , 'Garvagh Madonna' (744, VI), Vision of a Knight (213, VI),
and St. Catharine (168, VI) Titian's Bacchus and Ariadne (35, VII), Holy
;

Family (635, VII), and 'Noli me tangere' (270, VII); Veronese's Family
of Darius (294, VII); portraits by Moroni (697, 1022, VII) and Moretto
(299, VII); good specimens of Giov. Bellini (280, 189, 808, VII); the Rais-
ing of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo (1, VII); Madonna and Child, by
Leon, da Vinci (1093, I); a portrait by Andrea del Sarto (690, I); Fra
Angelico's Christ with the banner of the Resurrection (663, II) ; Botticelli's
Nativity (1034, III) a Madonna by Perugino (288, VI) ; works by Correggio
;

(23, 15, 10, IX); portraits and other works by Rembrandt (775, 672, 243,
757, 45, X); Charles I., by Van Dyck (1172, X; bought for 17,500*.); the
Idle Servant, by Maas (207, X); Triumph of Julius Caesar and the 'Chapeau
de Paille', by Rubens (278, X, and 852, XII) Peace of Miinster, by Terburg
;

(896, X) ; three beautiful little works by Jan van Eyck (222, 186, 290, XI)
good specimens of De Hooghe (834, 835, XII), Cuyj>, Hobbema, Hals, Van
der Heist, I. van Ostade, etc.; landscapes by Claude Lorrain (R. XIV);
characteristic examples of Velazquez and Murillo (R. XV); numerous works
of Hogarth, Reynolds, Gainsborough (XVI, XVII), Constable (XIX), Turner
(XXII), etc. ; two works by Rossetti (XIX).
From Trafalgar Square Pall Mall, with the principal Clubs,
Marlborough House (Prince of Wales), and St. James's Palace, leads
to the S.W. towards the Green Park. A little to the S. of Pall
Mall lies St. James's Park, at the W. end of which is Buckingham
Palace, the London residence of the Queen, containing a fine pic-
ture-gallery (access difficult to obtain).
Northumberland Avenue, leading to the S.E. from Trafalgar
Square to the Thames, contains three huge hotels and the Consti-
tutional Club. On the Embankment is the National Liberal Club.
"Whitehall, leading to the S. from Trafalgar Square, passes
the Admiralty, the Horse Guards (headquarters of the military
authorities), and the various Government Offices (all to the right).
On the other side are Scotland Yard (headquarters of the police),
the United Service Museum (adm., see p. 4), and the palace of
*Whiteh,all, the only relic of which is the fine Palladian Banquet-
ing Hall, now a Royal Chapel (adm. on application to the keeper).
Whitehall is continued by Parliament Street, leading to Parlia-
ment Square, which is embellished with statues of Peel, Palmers-
ton, Derby, Beaconsfitld, and Canning. To the left rise the *Houses
of Parliament, a huge building in the richest late-Gothic (Tudor)
style, by Sir Charles Barry^ The exterior is adorned with innumer-
 Westminster Abbey. LONDON. 1 . Route. 7

able statues, and the interior is fitted up with great taste and
splendour (adm., see p. 4; adm. to sittings of the House of Lords or
House of Commons through a member; the former open to the
public when sitting as a Court of Appeal). The Victoria Tower,
the largest of the three which adorn the building, is 340 ft. high.
— 'Westminster Hall, adjoining the Houses of Parliament on the
W. and forming a kind of public entrance-hall, is part of the ancient
palace of Westminster and dates mainly from the 14th century.
The fine oaken ceiling is a masterpiece of timber architecture.
To the S. of Parliament Square, opposite the Houses of Parlia-
ment, stands **Westminster Abbey, said to have been founded in
the 7th cent., rebuilt by Edward the Confessor (1049-65), and dat-
ing in its present form mainly from the latter half of the 13th cent,
with numerous important additions and alterations. The chapel of
Henry VII. dates from the beginning of the 16th cent., and the
towers from 1722-40. With its royal burial-vaults and long series
of monuments to celebrated men, Westminster Abbey may claim
to be the British Walhalla or Temple of Fame. Admission, see p. 4.
The "Interior produces a very fine and imposing effect, though this is
somewhat marred hy the egregiously bad taste of many of the monu-
ments with which nave, aisles, and transepts are filled. The most inter-
esting monuments are, perhaps, those in the Poets'" Corner (8. transept).
Of the chapels at the E. end of the church (adm., see p. 4) the most note-
worthy are those of Edward the Confessor and the beautiful Perp. ''Chapel
of Henry VII. ; hut all contain interesting tombs. The Cloisters and Chap-
terHouse should also he visited.
To the N. of the abbey stands St. Margaret's Church, with some
interesting monuments and stained-glass windows. On the S. it is
adjoined by Westminster School, one of the oldest and most im-
portant schools in the country. The Westminster Column, to the
W. of the Abbey, commemorates former pupils killed in war.
From Westminster Bridge, which crosses the Thames here, the
*VicTORrA Embankment runs to the N. along the left bank of the
river to Blackfriars, while the Albebt Embankment extends to
the S., on the opposite bank, to Vauxhall Bridge. The lormer is
embellished with Cleopatra's Needle (an obelisk brought from Egypt),
several Statues, and pleasantly laid out gardens. Among the chief
buildings adjoining the Victoria Embankment are Montague House
(Duke of Buccleuch), the National Liberal Club (p. 6), the Savoy
Hotel (p. 2), the Medical Examination Hall, Somerset House (p. 11),
the School Board Office, the Temple (p. 11), Sion College, the City
of London School, and the Royal Hotel (p. 2).
We may now return to Trafalgar Square and proceed to the
N.W. to Piccadilly, a handsome street extending to the W. from
Haymarket. The E. portion of the street contains handsome shops,
business- houses, and concert-halls. To the right is Burlington
v
House, the headquarters of the Royal Academy, Royal Society, and
several other learned bodies. To the left is the Museum of Practical
Geology (adm., see p. 4; entr. from Jermyn St.). The W. half of
8 Route I. LONDON. Kensington Museum.

Piccadilly, skirting the Green Park, contains many aristocratic

residences and clubs.
Piccadilly ends at Hyde Park Corner, the S.B. entrance of *Hyde
Park, the most fashionable of the London parks, covering an area
of nearly 400 acres. The favourite drive extends along its S. side
from Hyde Park Corner to Kensington Gate and is thronged with
carriages from 5 to 7 p. m. in the season. Parallel to the drive is
Rotten Row, the chief resort of equestrians. The large piece of
artificial water is named the Serpentine. To the W. Hyde Park is
adjoined by Kensington Gardens, with their fine old trees, contain-
ing Kensington Palace, now occupied by the Duke of Teck and
various royal pensioners.
The line of Piccadilly is prolonged towards the W. by Knights-
bridge (with large cavalry barracks) aud Kensington Oore, skirting
the S. side of Hyde Park. To the right, within the park, rises the
Albert Memorial, a magnificent Gothic monument to the late
Prince Consort. Opposite is the Albert Hall, a huge circular
structure in brick and terracotta, used for conceits and oratorios
and accommodating about 10,000 people. At the back of the Albert
Hall is the new Imperial Institute, situated in what used to be the
gardens of the Horticultural Society. Of the Exhibition Galleries
surrounding these gardens, one (to the E.) contains the *India
Museum (adm., see p. 4), a fine collection of Oriental works of
industry and art, and the others collections connected with South
Kensington Museum (see below).
**South Kensington Museum, situated at the corner of Exhi-
bition Road (leading S. from Kensington Gore) and Cromwell Road,
includes a museum of ornamental or applied art, a national gallery
of British art, an art library, an art training school, and a school of
science (adm., see p. 4).
The *"! Art Collection, one of the largest and finest in the world, is
exhibited in three large glass-roofed courta and in the galleries adjoining
them. We first enter the Architectural Court, chiefly containing casts,
but also a few fine original works. The South Court contains small
works of art in metal, ivory, amber, porcelain, etc., many of which are
on loan. The North Court is devoted to Italian art, comprising numer-
ous original sculptures of the Renaissance. — The National Gallery op
British Art, on the upper floor, contains an extensive and representative
•Collection of British Water- Colours, the Sheepshanks Collection of modern
paintings, the famous ""Cartoons of Raphael, etc. On the same floor pre
the * Ceramic Gallery, the "Jones Collection of French Furniture, a "Collection
of Enamels (Prince Consort Gallery), and other valuable works of art.
To the W. of this mnseum is the *Natural History Museum, a
handsome and most convenient structure, containing the extensive
natural history collections of the British Museum.
On the N. Hyde Park is bounded by the Vxbridge Road, the
prolongation of which to the E. forms perhaps the most important
line of thoroughfare in London. Oxford Street, the flrrt of th s
magnificent series of streets, begins at the Marble Arch, or N.E.
entrance of Hyde Park, and is about Vfe M. in length. The squares
 Smithfield Markets. LONDON. 1. Route. 9

near its W.
half contain many of the most aristocratic houses in
London, while its E. half is an unbroken series of attractive shops.
Among the chief streets diverging from it are Edgware Road, Bond
Street (with fashionable shops and picture-galleries), Regent Street
(see below), Tottenham Court Road, and Charing Cross Road (lead-
ing to Charing Cross). Oxford Circus, where Oxford St. intersects
Regent St., is one of the chief centres of the omnibus traffic.
Regent Street, one of the finest streets in London, containing many
of the best shops, extends from Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, to Portland
Place, which ends at the Regent's Park. 'Regent's Park, 470 acres in
extent, is well worthy of a visit and contains the gardens of the
"Zoological Society (adm., see p. 4), the Botanical Society, and the Toxo-
pholite Society. On the S. the park is bounded by Maktlebone Road,
with Tussaud't Waxworks (adm., see p. 4; close to the Baker St. station
of the Metropolitan Railway). Both park and street take their name from
the Prince Eegent, afterwards George IV. To the N. of Regent's Park rises
Primrose Bill, beyond which lies Hampttead.
From New Oxford St. , beyond Tottenham Court Road (see
above), two short streets lead to the left (N.) to the **British Mu-
seum (adm., see p. 4), a huge building with an Ionic portico,
containing a series of extensive and highly valuable collections!
Ground Flook. To the right of the entrance is the section for Print-
ed Books and Manuscripts, containing numerous incunabula, autographs,
and other objects of the greatest interest and value. —
The galleries to
the left contain the Greek and Roman Sculptures, including the famous
""Elgin Maiblet. —
Other galleries on this side (W.) contain the almost
equally important Egyptian and Assyrian Collections. —
The door imme-
diately opposite the main entrance leads to the huge circular 'Reading
Room, which is shown to visitors, on application to the official at the
entrance.
Upper Floor. The W. wing contains the Ethnological Department,
the Mediaeval Antiquities, the Glass and Ceramic Gallery, and the Col-
lection of Prints. —
In the £. wing are the Vases, Bronzes, Terra Cotta
Works, and Gold Ornaments. —
The N. galleries are devoted to the
smaller Etruscan, Egyptian, and Assyrian Antiquities, including an ex-
tensive collection of mummies.
Oxford Street is continued by Holborn, *Holborn Viaduct (a
clever piece of engineering), Newgate St., and Cheapside. To the
leftdiverges the wide Charterhouse Street, leading to the extensive
Smithfield Markets and to the Charterhouse, an interesting old
building used as an asylum for old men (adm. on application to the
porter). Adjoining Smithfield are St. Bartholomew's Hospital and
the *Church of St. Bartholomew, with a fine Norman interior, re-
cently restored.
In Newgate Street, to the left, is Christ's Hospital ('Blue-coat
School'), a school for 1200 boys and 100 girls, founded by Ed-
ward VI. The boys still wear their curious original dress. Just
beyond it are the large buildings of the General Post Office, the
W. section containing the telegraph department.
A
few yards to the S. of Newgate Street rises *St. Paul's Cathedral
(adm., seep. 4), an imposing Romanesque buildingwith abeautifully
proportioned dome, erected by Sir Christopher Wren in 1675-1710
on the site of the older building destroyed by the Great Fire (1666).
10 Route 1. LONDON. The Tower.

The Interior, though somewhat bare and dark, is imposing from the
oeauty and vastness of its proportions. It is second to Westminster Abbey
alone as the burial-place of eminent men, particularly naval and mili-
tary officers. As in the Abbey, the monuments are seldom of artistic
value, but a prominent exception is the monument of the "Duke of Well-
ington, by Stevens, in a chapel of the 8. aisle. The Duke and Lord Nel-
son are buried in the Crypt. The visitor may ascend to the Whispering
Gallery, with its curious acoustic properties, and to the Stone Gallery, which
affords an excellent view of the city.
Cheapside, containing the church of St. Mary-le-Bow, is pro-
longed by the Poultry, leading to the Bank, the space in front of
which is in business-hours the scene of a traffic probably unrivalled
elsewhere. The Bank of England, an irregular and low edifice by
Sir John Soane, is open daily, as far as its business offices are
concerned, from 10 to 3. The printing, weighing, and bullion
offices are shown by the special order of the Governor or Deputy
Governor. — The Royal Exchange, to the S. of the Bank, dates
from 1842-44 (chief business hour 3.30-4.30 p.m. on Tues. & Frid.).
— Opposite the Bank, at the end of the Poultry, rises the Mansion
House, or official residence of the Lord Mayor, erected in 1739-52.
The Lord Mayor's police-court is open daily, 12-2, but the state
and reception rooms are shown only by special permission. In—
Walbrook, behind the Mansion House, is the church of St. Stephen's,
with one of Wren's best interiors. — The Guildhall, or council-
hall of the City, to the N. of Cheapside, was originally built in the
15th cent., but was restored after the Great Fire and provided with
a new facade in 1789. Visitors are admitted to the Great Hall,
with its fine timber roof, and the Museum and Art Gallery also
deserve a visit. The Free Library is open to all.
Bethnal Green Museum (adm., see p. 4), with the 'National Portrait
Gallery, about l'/s M. to the If.E. of the Bank, may be reached by an
Old Ford omnibus from the Bank, by a tramway-car from the Aldgate
station of the Metropolitan Railway, or by train from Liverpool St. Station
to Cambridge Heath.
We may now proceed to the S., through King William Street,
to London Bridge, passing the Monument, a lofty column (202 ft.)
erected in commemoration of the Great Fire (p. 5). London Bridge,
erected in 1825-31, is the most important of the bridges over the
Thames and is the scene of an immense traffic. The oldest bridge
at this point was erectedjby the Saxons, or, perhaps, by the Romans.
The bridge commands a good view of the busy river.
From the N. end of London Bridge Lower Thames Street runs
along the left bank of the Thames, passing the Coal Exchange,
Billingsgate Fish-Market, and the Custom House. The street ends
at Great Tower Hill, opposite the *Tower, the ancient fortress and
state-prison of London (adm., see p. 4).
It is possible that a Roman fort stood here, but the Tower of London
properly originated with William the Conqueror, who in 1078 erected the
'White Towek, forming the centre of the mass of buildings. It contains
a Noiman "Chapel, extensive collections of arms and armour, etc., and,
like many of the other small towers, is full of historical interest. The
Crown Jewels are kept in the Record or Wakefield Tower.
 ;

Somerset House. LONDON. 1. Route. 11

On the E. side of Tower Hill stands the Royal Mint (adm. by

order procured by previous written application to the Deputy-Master
of the Mint), and on the N. is Trinity House, concerned with the
regulation of lighthouses and other matters pertaining to navigation.
— Below the Thames here are the Tower Subway (V^O and (a
little higher up) the new City of London and Southwark Sulway, to
be traversed by an electric railway. The Thames Tunnel, about 2 M.
below London Bridge, is now used for railway traffic only. The
Docks, which begin just below the Tower and extend for several
miles down the river, are described in the Handbook for London.
From St. Paul's we may return to Charing Cross by Fleet
Street and the Strand. Fleet Stbeet, deriving its name from the
old Fleet Brook, is one of the busiest thoroughfares in London and
contains many newspaper and printing offices. To the S. of it lies
the Temple, originally a lodge of the Knights Templar, but now
belonging to the legal corporations (barristers) of the Inner and the
Middle Temple. The Temple Gardens are frequently open.
The 'Temple Church in the Inner Temple, consists of a Sound
,

Church in the Norman style, completed in 1185, and an E.E. choir (1240).
— The fine Gothic 'Hall of the Middle Temple should also be visited.
On the N. side of Fleet St., at the corner of Chancery Lane, are
the Royal Courts of Justice, a huge Gothic pile by Street. At the
back of the Law Courts lies Lincoln's Inn, a corporation similar to
the Temple, with a valuable old library. [Qray's Inn, another Inn
of Court, lies to the N. of Holborn, p. 9.]
The Sthand, which begins here, was formerly entered from
Fleet St. by Temple Bar, removed in 1878. It contains numerous
theatres and newspaper offices. Adjoining the Law Courts is the
church of Cltment Danes, and a little farther on is St. Mary-
St.
le-Strand's. Somerset House, to the left, a large quadrangular
building on the site of an old palace of the Protector Somerset, is
devoted to various public offices. The E. wing is occupied by
King's College. Savoy Street, a little farther on, leads to the left to
the Savoy Chapel, a Perp. building of 1505-11, on the site of the
ancient Savoy Palace. — Covent Gaeden Market lies to the N.
of this part of the Strand.
Among the chief points of interest on the S. or Surrey side of
the Thames are *Lambeth Palace, for 600 years the residence of
the Archbishops of Canterbury (the chapel dating from 1245, the
'Lollard's Tower' from 1434, etc.), with a fine library (adm. by special
permission); St. Thomas's Hospital, on the 'pavilion" system, adjoin-
ing Westminster Bridge; Bethlehem Hospital, a large lunatic asylum
('Bedlam'); St. George's Roman Catholic Cathedral; Battersea Park
*St. Saviour's Church (13-16th cent.), near London Bridge; Barclay
and Perkins' Brewery ; Spurgeon's Tabernacle ; and Guy's Hospital.
The numerous other places of interest in and near London, such as
Chelsea Hospital, Greenwich Hospital, the Ci-ystal Palace, Hampton Court,
Dulwich, Woolwich, Richmond, Kew, and Epping Forest, are described in
Baedeker's Handbook for London.
 — :

12

2. From London to Dover.

a. South Eastern Kailway via Tunbridge and Folkestone.
77 M. Railway in l 3/4-3'/4 hrs. from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and
London Bridge (fores 18s. Gd.. 13s. Gd., 6s. 2V2<*., return 31s., 22s. 6d!., 12s.
bd. ; mail train 20s., 15s., return 33s. Gd., 25s.). On Sat. cheap return-
tickets, available till the following Mon., are issued at 22s. Gd., 17s. Gd ,
and 10s. Gd. Some of the ordinary trains run via RedhiH and rejoin the
direct line at Tunbridge (p. 13). — Passengers starting from Charing Cross
should remember in choosing their seats, that after backing into Cannon
Street the locomotive will he at the other end of the train.
Crossing the Thames and leaving London Bridge Station, the
train passes (5 M.) New Cross (p. 32), St. John's, and (8 3/4 M.)
Grove Park, beyond which the Crystal Palace is visible in the dis-
tance to the right. We then thread a tunnel more than 1 /2 M. long.
11 M. Chislehurst (A. S. 'Gravel Wood'; comp. Ger. Kiesel
Bickley Arms Hotel), beautifully situated on a height in a well-
wooded district. Not far from the station (turn to the right and then
ascend the hill to the left) is Camden Place, formerly the residence
of Camden the antiquary (d. 1623), but perhaps better known as
the retreat of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugenie after the
Franco-German War. Napoleon died here in 1873, and his remains,
with those of his son the Prince Imperial (killed in S. Africa in
1^79), lay in the Roman Catholic church till their removal toFarn-
boTovigli (see p. 76). — 14 M. Orpington is known chiefly as the
place where Mr. Ruskin's works have hitherto been published.
Downe, 3 M. to the S.W. of (1572 M Vhelsfield, was for 40 years
the home of Charles Darwin (d. 1882). Tunnel. Beyond (16'l/ 2 M.)
Halstead, 2'/2 M. to the S.W. of which are the Knockholt Beeches
(see below), we traverse another tunnel, l 3 /^ M. long, and, passing
through rich park-like scenery, reach (201/2 M.) Dunton Green, the
junction of a short branch to Westerham (King's Arms Crown),
;

ascending the valley of the Darent. Westerham was the birthplace of

General Wolfe (1727-59), to whom there is a memorial in the
church.
22 M. Sevenoaks (*Crown; Royal Oak), a prettily situated town
with 6300 inhab., may also be reached from London by the London,
Chatham, and Dover Railway via, Swanley (comp. p. 18).
To the S. E. lies "Knole, the seat of Lord Sackville (minister at
Washington, 1881-8S), one of the noblest baronial mansions in England,
almost unchanged both inside and outside since the times of James I.
and Charles I. Visitors are admitted on Frid. by order obtained from
Messrs. Glasier & Son, 6 Spring Gardens, London, S.W. (lpers.2s., 4pers.6s.,
7 pers. 10s.). The rooms shown to visitors include the Great Ilall, the
Brown Gallery with portraits by Holbein and others), the Spangled Bed-
room dk Dressing-Room (portraits by Lely), the Leicester Gallery (portraits
by Van Dyek, Mytens, etc.), the Ball Room, the Crimson Drawing Room
(portraits by Reynolds), and the Cartoon Gallery (with copies, by Mytens,
of six of Raphael's cartoons). The magnificent park, with fine beeches,
is open to visitors. — Sevenoaks is also a good centre for many other
pleasant walks, one of the most interesting being that to the N.W. to the
famous Knockholt Beeches ("View) and (37a M.) Chevening, the beautiful
seat of Karl Stanhope (son of the historian), with a fine park open to
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 TUNBRIDGE. 2. Route. 13
the public. —About 3>/2 M. to the E. is "Ightham Mote, one of the best
specimens of a moated manor-house in England, with a fine domestic
chapel of the time of Henry VIII.
Beyond Sevenoaks the train penetrates a range of low hills by a
tunnel, 2^ M. long. — 27 M. Hildenborough.
29'/2 M. Tunbridgef.Rose # Crown ; Bail. Rfmt. Rooms), a market-
town with 9340 inhab., an old Castle (adm. by permission of the
owner), and a grammar-school dating from 1553, now in a large
modern building, is the junction of the S.E. line from London via
Redhill and of the main line to Tunbridge Wells and Hastings (R. 41.
The railway from London to (22 M.) Redhill Junction is described in
R. 6. The stations between Redhill and (43 M.) Tunbridge are Nuffield,
Oodttone, (33 M.) JSdenbridge (Crown), also a station on the L.B. S.C. R.
(p. 37)y and (38 M.) Penshurst (Leicester Arms, in the village, 2 M. from
the station). The walk from Edenbridge to Penshurst, via. Hever (5'/2 M.)
and through the quaint and pretty village of Chiddingstone, is very pic-
turesque. Hever (rail, stat., p. 37) is an old embattled mansion-house (14th
cent.; shown on Wed.), where Henry VIH. often visited Anne Boleyn,
and afterwards occupied by Anne of Cleves, who is said to have died
here; it is now a farm-house. The church of Hever contains several
monuments of the Boleyn family. "Penshurst Place, the lovely seat of
Lord de Lisle and Dudley, contains a fine picture-gallery, to which visitors
are admitted on Mon., Wed., and Frid. (12-1 and 3-6). Its chief historical
interest lies in having once belonged to the Sidneys, portraits of many of
whom hang on the walls, including two of Sir Philip Sidney (who was
horn here). The trees in the park are very fine; one avenue is known as
'Sacharissa Walk', from Dorothy Sidney, the 'Sacharissa' of Waller. Good
pedestrians may prolong their walk to (5 M.) Tunbridge or to (6 M.) Tun-
bridge Wells, via Bidborough (fine views).
The next station beyond Tunbridge is (34y2 M. ) Paddock Wood,
whence a branch-line diverges on the left to (10 M.) Maidstone (p.35),
traversing the best hop-district in the kingdom. —
From (42 M.)
Staplehurst omnibuses ply to (6 M.) Cranbrook (George Bull), ;

a small town, formerly of importance for its broadcloth factories,

with a Perp. church and an old grammar-school.
56 M. Ashford (Saracen's Head ; Royal Oak ; Rail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), with 10,000 inhab., is the site of the large workshops of
the S. E. Railway. The parish- church has a good Perp. tower.
Lines diverge here ori the left to Canterbury (see below"), and on
the right to Hastings (p. 42). About 3^2 M. to the N. of Ashford is
Eastwell, occupied for some years by the Duke of Edinburgh, with
a beautiful park.
Fkom Ashford to Canteebdkt, 12 M., railway in l fr hr. (fares 3*.
6d., 2t. id., is. 2'/2<*-). — This line descends the valley of the Stow,
parts of which are very picturesque. —
2 M. Wye; 7 M. Chilham (Inn),
with a ruined Korman castle; 9 M. Chartham, with an interesting E. E.
and Dec. church, containing some fine brasses and old stained glass. The
pretty tracery in the windows of the chancel is of the pattern known par
excellence as 'Kentish'. — 12 M. Canterbury, see p. 25.
60 M. Smeeth, with the seat of Lord Brabourne (Knatchbull-
Hugessen). At (64'/2 M.) Westenhanger is a farm-house incor-
porating the remains of an old royal manor-house, said to have
been the bower of Fair Rosamond. —
65'/2 M. Sandling Junction,
for (2 M.) Hythe and (3t/2 M.) Sandgate.
14 Route 2. FOLKESTONE. From London

Hythe (Sealrook Hotel; Swan), a town with 4470 inhab., has lost its
significance as one of the Cinque Ports, but is now an important mili-
tary station, with the chief School of Musketry of the British army. It
possesses an interesting E.E. Church, with a raised chancel and a remark-
able groined crypt, containing a huge collection of bones and skulls, the
origin of which is doubtful. Either from Westenhanger or Hythe a visit
may be paid to the ruins of Saltwood Castle, formerly belonging to the
Archbishops of Canterbury. Near West Hythe is Stud/all Castle, an ancient
Roman camp. — Sandgate (Royal Kent; Royal Norfolk) is a small water-
ing-place, with one of the coast- castles built by Henry VIII. It was the
birthplace of J. B. Gough, the well-known temperance advocate.
Beyond Westenhanger Saltwood Castle (see above) comes into
view to the right. At (69 M.) Shorncliffe is a permanent military
camp, with accommodation for 5000 men the huts are visible
—
;

to the right. Line to Canterbury, see p. 25. Beyond (70 M.)

Radnor Park the train crosses a lofty viaduct and reaches (71 1/2 M.)
Folkestone, whence a short branch-line leads to Folkestone Harbour.
Folkestone (*Pavilion, near the harbour, with a winter-garden ;

West Cliff; King's Arms; ^Clarendon, R. & A. 3s. 6d. ; Kentish

Temperance; Queen's; Longford, Bates, Norfolk House, private;
Central Cafe, Sandgate Road), a cheerful and thriving seaport and
watering-place, is an ancient town with 19,000 inhab., in a roman-
tic and sheltered situation. Mail-packets start here daily for Bou-
logne. Folkestone was the birthplace of Dr. Thomas Harvey (1578-
1658), discoverer of the circulation of the blood, to whom a
monument was erected here in 1881. The Parish Church occupies
the site of the old priory church of St. Eanswith, founded in 1095,
but has been to a great extent rebuilt. The old Castle has almost
entirely vanished. The favourite promenades are the Lees, a grassy
expanse on the top of the cliff (fine views bard hydraulic lift
; ;

from the beach) the New or Victoria Pier (band); and the Pleasure
;

Gardens, with the large glass pavilion of the exhibition of 1886.

The walk along the beach to (l 3/4 M.) Sandgate (see above) is very
pleasant, and longer excursions may be made to Dover, Hythe,
Saltwood Castle, etc. The Sugar Loaf and other chalk hills to
the N. also afford pleasant objects for a walk. Facilities are also
afforded for circular trips to Boulogne, Calais, etc.
The most interesting part of the line is between Folkestone and
Dover, where it is carried through the chalk cliffs by numerous cut-
tings and tunnels. We penetrate the Martello Tunnel, 766 yds.
long, pass through a long cutting, and enter the Abbot's Cliff Tun-
nel, upwards of 1 M. in length. The line then runs along a ter-
race, supported by a sea-wall , and passes under the Shakespeare
Cliff (-p. 16) by another tunnel, 3/4 M. long.
77 M. Dover. —
Hotels. Lord Warden Hotel, near the Pier and Rail-
way Station, a large house with a view of the sea, high charges; "Dover
Castle, King's Head, both in Clarence St., with a view of the harbour;
Shakespeare Hotel, Beach St., well spoken of; Harp, near the harbour,
R. & A. 3s. 6d. ; Esplanade, facing the sea; Antwerp, Market Place,
commercial; Royal, Clarence St.; "Royal Oak, near the rail, stat., com-
mercial.
 to Dover. DOVER. 2. Route. 15
Porter from the station to the steamer or the town, each package
under 141bs. 2d., over 14lbs. 4d. ; from the steamer to the station or town,
including detention at the custom-house, under 56lbs. Gd., over 561bs. 1*.
Steamers to Calais thrice daily and to Ostend twice daily (p. xix).
Cabs. To or from any part of the town, for 1st class cabs (drawn by
horses) 1*. 6d., for 2nd class cabs (drawn by ponies, mules, or asses) 1*.;
to or from the Castle or Heights 2s. 6d. ; per hour 2s. 6d. or Is. Sd., each
addit. Va nr - !*• 3d. or iOd. ; for each article of luggage id.
Post Office, Northampton St., on the N. side of the inner harbour.
Sea-Baths, at the £. end of the Marine Parade.
Dover, the Roman Dubrae, and the first of the Cinque Ports, is
finely situatedon a small bay, hounded by lofty chalk cliffs, which
are crowned with barracks and fortifications. Near the centre of the
bay the line of cliffs is broken by the narrow valley of the Dour
(Welsh Dwr or Dwfr, 'water'), on the slopes of which great part of
the town is built. Its sheltered situation and mild climate render
Dover a favourite bathing-place and winter-resort. The population,
including the garrison, is about 35,000.
In the Roman and Saxon periods Dover was a place of comparative
insignificance, but after the Norman Conquest it became a harbour and
fortress of considerable importance. In the reign of King John (1216)
Dover Castle offered a long, obstinate, and successful resistance, under
Hubert de Burgh, to the combined forces of the Dauphin Louis and the re-
volted barons. It was off Dover that the Armada received its first serious
check in July, 1588. At the opening of the Civil War Dover Castle was
garrisoned by the Royalists, but it fell into the hands of the Parliament-
arians by stratagem in 1642. Charles H. landed here in 1660, and both
before and since that period Dover has been frequently visited by monarchs
and princes on their way to or from the Continent.
On the height to the E. of the town rises *Dovbk Castle (320 ft.
above the sea), to which visitors are freely admitted, except to the
underground works, for which a special pass is necessary. This fast-
ness, originally founded by the Romans and afterwards strengthen-
ed and enlarged by the Saxons and Normans, is still kept in repair
as a fortress. The remains of the Roman Pharos and the Church of
St. Mary de Castro, an almost unique specimen of a Roman-British
edifice (restored ; roof modern) are interesting. Splendid view of
,

the town and harbour especially from the top of the Keep, built
,

by Henry II. (92 ft. high; walls 23 ft. thick). The coast of France,
21 M. distant, is visible in clear weather. The old towers of the castle
bear the names of the various Norman Governors. See 'The Church
and Fortress of Dover Castle', by Rev. John Puckle (illus., Is.).
Among the smaller objects of interest in the Castle are 'Queen Eliza-
beth's Pocket Pistol' (near the edge of the cliff), a brass cannon, 24 ft.
long, cast at Utrecht in 1544, and presented by Charles V. to Henry VIII.;
a NoTman loophole in the ground-floor of the keep; a well in the top of
the keep, 300 ft. deep ; and an old clock, dating from 1348.
The principal feature of the new fortifications connected with the
old castle is Fort Burgoyne, which stands on the hill to the N.W., beyond
the Deal road, and commands the landward approaches. — On the cliffs
to the E. of the castle is a large Convict Prison.
The Harbotjb. of Dover consists of a large outer tidal basin and
two spacious docks. From the W. side projects the Admiralty Pier,
whence the continental mail-packets depart. This huge structure is
1 6 Route 2. DOVER. From London

780 yds. long and forms one arm of a harbour of refuge, intended
to be one of the most extensive in the kingdom. The pier is a fa-
vourite promenade. The fort at the end mounts two 81-ton guns.
The Western Heights are also strongly fortified and afford exten-
sive views. They are conveniently reached from Snargate St. by
the so-called 'Shaft', which is ascended by a spiral staircase with
480 steps. On the Heights are large Barracks, the foundations of
a Pharos, and an old circular church, known as the Knights Tem-
plar Church. —
Farther to the W. separated from the "Western
,

Heights by a deep valley is Shakespeare Cliff, rising sheer to a

,

height of 350 ft. it takes its name from the well-known passage
;

in 'King Lear' (iv. 6). —

Still farther on are the works in connection
with the projected Channel Tunnel. A
vertical shaft has been
sunk here , and the tunnel excavated for some distance under the
sea in the direction of the Admiralty Pier.
The Maison Dieu Hall erected by Hubert de Burgh (p. 15)
,

in the first half of the 13th cent, as a pilgrims' hospital, has re-
cently been restored, and is now incorporated with the new Town
Hall in Biggin St., on the N. side of the town, near the Dour. The
modern stained-glass windows illustrate scenes in the history of
Dover. —
The churches of *8t. Mary and Old St. James are both
ancient and exhibit some features of interest. In Strond St., near
the Pier, is Trinity Church. —
Near the Priory Station (see p. 32)
are some remains of the old Benedictine Priory of St. Martin (1132),
now incorporated in the buildings of Dover College; they include
the Refectory, a good example of plain Norman work, and a Gate-
house. The Museum (daily, 10-4, except Thurs. and Sun.), in
Market Square, contains antiquities and objects of natural history.
Pleasant walks may be taken along the shore from Dover in both di-
rections, either westward to (6 M.) Folkestone, via the Shakespeare Cliff (see
above), or eastward by SI. Margarets Bay (Granville Arms), with a fine
Norman church, and the South Foreland to (9 M.) Deal (comp. p. 25). The
geologist will find much to interest him in the formation of the cliffs.
The Worth Fall Footpath, a path leading through a tunnel from the E.
end of the town to the top of the cliff, is closed when rifle- shooting is
being practised in the North Fall Meadow. —
Another walk may be taken
to St. Radegund's Abbey, 3 M. to the N.W. ; the ruins are those of a Prse-
monstratensian foundation dating from the end of the 12th century. —
During summer numerous cheap excursions are arranged to Canterbury,
Hastings, Ramsgate, etc. ; also a circular tour to Calais, Boulogne, and
Folkestone.

b. London, Chatham, and Dover Eailway via Canterbury.

78 M. Railway in 2-3'/2hrs. (fares the same as by the South Eastern
Rnilway, p. 12). The trains start from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Ludgate
Hill, and St. Paul's.
Leaving Victoria (see Baedeker s London) the train crosses the
Thames, with a view of Battersea Park to the right, and passes
the stations of Clapham and Brixton. The train from Holborn Via-
duct, Ludgate Hill, and St. Paufs crosses the Thames to Blackfriars,
passing the Elephant and Castle and Loughborough Junction, and
 :

to Dover. BROMLEY. 2. Route. 17

unites with the Victoria branch at (3Y2 M.)Heme Bill. Then follow
Dulwich and Sydenham Hill, beyond which the train passes through
a long tunnel below the grounds of the Crystal Palace (see Baedeker's
London). 7 M. Penge; 8 s/i M. Beckenham.
103/4 M. Bromley (White Hart; Bell), a town of 15,155 inhab.,
pleasantly situated on the Ravensbourne, derives its name from the
broom that still flourishes in the neighbourhood. It contains an old
palace of the Bishops of Rochester, now a private residence, and a
college, or alms-house, founded 200 years ago for the widows of cler-
gymen. In the church is the tomb of Dr. Johnson's wife ('Tetty'),
with a Latin inscription by her husband. A pleasant walk may be
taken to (3 M.) Chislehurst (p. 12) and (6y2 M.)Eltham (p. 33).
About 2'/2 M. to the S. of Bromley and 1 M. from the railway (to the
right) is Hayes Place, where Lord Chatham died (1778) and William Pitt
(1759-1806) was born. It was here that Benjamin Franklin visited Lord
Chatham in 1775 before the latter's famous speech on the American question.
Visitors to Hayes should prolong their walk to (2 M.) Keiton Common,
where there are the remains of an extensive Koman settlement, known
as Caetari Camp and now believed to be the station of IToviomugvi.
From Beckenham onwards the line traverses the fair and fertile
county of Kentlr, where the extensive Hop Gardens soon become
one of the characteristic features of the scenery, presenting an espe-
cially picturesque appearance in August and September when,

thousands of hop-pickers are employed in gathering the beautiful

golden blossoms. Kent is also famed for its fruit, especially for its
apples and cherries. A curious distinction between the 'Men of
Kent', to the W. of the Medway (who claim the superiority), and
the 'Kentish Men', to the E. of it, has been maintained down to the
present day ; and is generally referred to the belief that the former
were the original inhabitants of the country, or to the determined
resistance they offered to William the Conqueror on his march to
London after the battle of Hastings. The 8. E. part of the county,
known as the Weald of Kent, is particularly fertile.
The hop-picking season is very short and requires the employment
of far more labour than the local resources can supply. Large numbers
of men, women, and children therefore come down from London and
other towns to help, and 'hopping' affords a much prized annual outing
to thousands of dwellers in the slums. These visitors are generally ac-
commodated in tents, the gleaming white canvas of which contrasts pleas-
antly with the rich green of the hop-bines. The men cut the hop-bines
close to the ground, pull up the long poles to which they are attached, and
lay them across the 'binns' at a suitable angle for the women and children
to pluck off the hops. The farmer or his representative ('tallyman') comes
at intervals to measure the amount of hops in the binns, as payment is
made by results. A good picker can earn 3-4s. per day. The stripped
poles are piled in stacks for future use, and the despoiled bines are left
to dry and then either burned or used as manure. The hops are taken
to dry in the 'oast-houses' (A.S. atl, a kiln), the curious, extinguisher-like
ventilators (or cowls) of which are so conspicuous among the gardens. A
+ A
knight of Cales, a gentleman of Wales, and a laird of the North
Countree
A yeoman
of Kent, with his yearly rent, will buy them out all three.
—Old Rhyme.
Baedekeb's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 2
18 Route?. ROCHESTER. From London

small quantity of sulphur is used in the drying-process to help in puri-

fying the hops. When cool the dried hops are packed in large sacks,
technically known as 'pockets', holding l'/:i-2 cwt. each. Hops are singu-
larly sensitive to differences of soil and other conditions and vary greatly
in value even in limited districts. The hest gardens are round Maidstone,
and the most delicate variety of hop is the 'golding' of E. Kent. Hops
were introduced into England from Flanders about the beginning of the
15th cent, and now occupy ahout 60,000 acres of English soil, nearly two-
thirds of which are in Kent.
12 M. Bickley. — 14 3 /4 M. St. Mary Cray, with a large paper-
mill and some good brasses. This is
a Perp. church containing
one of four contiguous parishes taking their surname from the small
river Cray. At St. Paul's Cray, s/i M. to the N., is an interesting
E.E. church, with a shingle spire, —
From (il 1/^ M.) Swanley
Junction a branch-line diverges on the right to (8 M.) Sevenoaks
(p. 12) and Maidstone (p. 35). Within easy reach of (20y2 M.) Far-
ningham Road are the interesting old churches of Hort on Kirby (3/4 M.
to the S.E. E. E.)
; Farningham (Lion Inn; l 1 ^ M. to the S.),
,

Sutton - at - Hone (ii/4 M. to the N.), and Darent (2 M. to the N.;

early-Norman, with Roman bricks).
Beyond Farningham Road a branch-line diverges to (4 /2 M.) Southfleet,
]

(6y» Jl.) Roshenille, and (7 M.) Gravesend (see Baedeker's London).

23 M. Fawkham; Ib^/i M. Meopham, with a large Decorated
church (to the left); 27 M. Sole Street. The castle and cathedral of
Rochester now soon come into view on the right, beyond the Medway.
— 33 M. Rochester and Strood. The station lies in Strood, a sub-
urb of Rochester, on the left bank of the Medway and close to the
station of the S. E. Railway (p. 34). There is no railway-station at
Rochester itself, which we reach by a handsome iron bridge, con-
tracted in 1850-56 on the site of a much earlier bridge of stone.
Readers of Dickens will recall the description of Mr. Pickwick's view,
from Rochester bridge, as he leant over the balustrades, 'contemplat-
ing nature and waiting for breakfast'. Above is the railway-bridge.
Rochester {Crown, near the bridge; Victoria fy Bull, commend-
ed in 'Pickwick'; King's Head, all three in the High St.) is a
very ancient city, with a pop. of 21,590, inhabited successively by
the Britons, under whom its name was Doubris ; by the Romans,
who called it Durobrivae ; by the Saxons, whose name for it, Hroff's-
ceastre (perhaps a corruption of Rufus?), is the rugged prototype
of its modern form and by the Normans. It was made a bishop's
;

see early in the 7th century. Rochester was destroyed by the Saxon
Ethelbert, was twice pillaged by the Danes, and was besieged by
William Rufus, son of the Conqueror; and the castle changed hands
more than once during the dissensions of King John and his barons.
It was at Rochester that James II. embarked in disguise on his
flight in 1688. On crossing the bridge we turn to the right into
the Esplanade, from which we enter the castle-grounds, now laid
out as a public garden. The present *Castlb, standing conspi-
cuously on an eminence, was built in 1126-39 by William Corbeil,
Archbishop of Canterbury. The square Keep, 104 ft. in height,
 to Dover. ROCHESTER. 2. Route. 19

which now alone remains, along with the outer walls, is a fine spe-
cimen of Norman architecture, and commands an extensive view
(adm. 3d.). The castle now belongs to the corporation of Rochester.
To the E. of the castle rises the Cathedkal, which, though not
pre-eminent among the minsters of England for either size or ar-
chitecture, is a building of considerable interest. St. Augustine
founded a missionary church on this site about the year 600 and
consecrated the first Bishop of Rochester in 604. At the time of
the Conquest, however, this church was in a completely ruinous
condition, and Gundulf, the second Norman bishop, architect of the
White Tower at London, undertook the erection of a new church,
which was completed and consecrated in 1130. Gundulf also re-
placed the secular clergy of the old foundation by a colony of Bene-
dictines. This church was afterwards partly destroyed by fire,
and the choir and transepts were rebuilt in the E. E. style by Prior
William de Hoo (1201-27), who is, perhaps, identical with English
William of Canterbury (p. 28). The Cathedral was restored in 1825
and again (by Sir G. G. Scott) in 1871-75. The internal length
of the Cathedral is 306 ft., breadth of nave and choir 68 ft., across
the W. transepts 120 ft. In plan it resembles Canterbury Cathe-
dral, having double transepts, a raised choir, and a spacious crypt.
The chief external features are the W. front (Norman), with its fine
recessed doorway the so-called Gundulf s tower, in the angle form-
;

ed by the N.W. transept and the choir; and the mean central tower,
erected by Cottingham in 1825. The figures of Henry I. and Queen
Matilda (or Henry II. and Queen Margaret) at the sides of the W.
doorway are two of the oldest English statues now extant.
Interior (daily services at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. in winter and 5.30 p.m.
in summer; crypt and choir shown by the verger, small fee). The Nave
is Norman in style, except the two easternmost bays, where the junction
between the Norman and later work is effected in a way more curious
than beautiful. The triforium arches are elaborately adorned with diaper
patterns and have the peculiarity of opening to the aisles as well as to
the nave. The W. window and the clerestory are Perpendicular. The
W.Transefts are in the E. E. style, the N. being the earlier and richer.
In the S. transept are the quaint monument of Richard Watts (see p. 20)
and a brass tablet to the memory of Charles Dichens (d. 1870), who lived
at Gad's Hill, near Rochester (p. 20). The chapel adjoining this transept
on the W. was built as a Lady Chapel in the Perp. period.
From the transepts we ascend by a flight of steps to the Choik, which
is a few feet longer than the nave. It is in the E. E. style and has been
skilfully restored by Sir G. G. Scott. The stalls and throne are new, but
some of the old misereres have been preserved. The tiled pavement was
constructed after old patterns still visible in different parts of the church.
Above the pulpit is the fragment of an old mural painting of the Wheel
of Fortune. In the N. E. Transept is the tomb of St. William of Perth
(13th cent.), a Scottish baker, murdered near Rochester when on a pil-
grimage to Canterbury; this tomb afterwards became a frequented pil-
grim-resort and a source of great wealth to the cathedral. Adjacent is
the tomb of Bishop Walter de Merlon (d. 1277), founder of Merton College,
Oxford (p. 229). To the E. of this transept is Bishop Warner's Chapel, in
the archway between which and the presbytery is the beautiful coloured
effigy of Bishop John de Sheppey (14th cent.), discovered behind the masonry
here in 1825. The windows in the S. E. Transept are memorials of Gen.
2*
20 Route 2. ROCHESTER. From London
Gordon, Cnpt. Gill (Professor Palmer's companion in his ill-fated expe-
dition to the Sinaitic Desert in 1S82), and other officers of the Royal
Engineers. A
plain stone coffin in the Saerarinm , or E. end of the
choir, is shown as that of Bishop Gundulf (p. 19). The great glory of
the choir, however, is the beautiful Dec. "Doorway in the S. E. angle,
leading to the Chapteh House (copy in the Crystal Palace; see Baedeker's
London). The figures at the side represent the Synagogue and the Church;
originally both were female figures, hut the latter was mistakenly restored
as a bishop in 1830!
The *Ckypt, reached by a flight of steps adjoining SI. Edmund^s Chapel,
on the S. side of the choir, is one of the most extensive in England.
The W. end belonged to Bishop Gundulf s church and is very plain in style.
A fragment of the old Priory of St. Andrew, coeval with the
Cathedral, is preserved in the garden of the Deanery, to the E.
Three of the old gateways of the cathedral-precincts still remain,
the most important of which is the Prior s Gate to the S.
Turning to the S. (left) on leaving the Cathedral, passing
through the Prior's Gate (see above), and again turning to the left,
we have to the right the wall enclosing the old Grammar School,
founded by Henry VIII. We next turn to the right and pass
through a small gate into the Vines Recreation Ground, for-
merly a vineyard attached to the priory. On the N. (left) side of
this are some remains of the old city wall, and at its S.E. end is
Restoration House, a picturesque red brick mansion, with many
windows, owing its name to the fact that Charles II. passed a night
here on his return to England in May, 1660.
From this point Crow Lane leads to the left to Eastgate,
reaching it a little to the left of Eastgate House, an interesting
Elizabethan structure, now occupied as a Working-Men's Institute
It has been identified with the 'Nun's House' in 'Edwin Drood',
which Dickens describes as standing in the midst of the ancient
and drowsy city of 'Cloisterham'. Proceeding to the W. along the
High Street we soon pass (on the right) the Watts' Charity House,
founded in 1579 by Richard Watts for 'six poor travellers, not
being rogues or proctors', and widely known from the description
of it in Dickens's 'Tale of the Seven Poor Travellers'. —On the
other side of High St., nearer the bridge, is the old Bull Inn
(re-christened the Victoria fy Bult), extolled by Mr. Alfred Jingle
( 'good house - nice
beds'). — Satis House, the residence of Richard
Watts, situated to the S. of the castle, is said to owe its name to the
gracious praise of its accommodation by Queen Elizabeth, who
stayed here on her visit to Rochester; the house has, however, sinct
been rebuilt.
Insummer pleasant steamboat -excursions on the Medway (pier just
above the bridge) may be made from Rochester to (11 M.) Sheerness (p. 22)
and (18 M.) Southend (p. 450), at the mouth of the Thames, affording good
views of Upnor Castle, Chatham Dockyards, etc. Small boats may lie
hired at the Esplanade; charge to (3 J'O Upnor Castle (p. 22), about 3s.
About 2'/2 M. to the N. W. of Strood, on the road to Gravesend, is
GaoVs Hill (Falstaff Inn), the scene of Falstaffs encounter with the 'men
in buckram' (Henry IV., Part I., ii,4) and also mentioned by Chaucer.
It commands an extensive view. Gad's Hill Place, the residence of Charles
 to Dover. CHATHAM. %. Route. 21

Dickens , is an old-fashioned red-brick house near the inn. In the

'Wilderness', reached by a tunnel below the road, are some magnificent
cedars. About 4 M. to the N. are the ruins of Coolin Cattle, the home of
Sir John Oldcastle, the supposed prototype of Falstaff; Cooling Marshes
are the scene of the opening incidents in Dickens's 'Great Expectations'.
A very favourite excursion from Rochester is that to Cobham Ball,
which lies about 5 M. to the W. of the town and Pfa M. to the N. of
Sole Street station (p. 18). Walkers ascend Strood Hill and turn to the
left at the top, into Woodstock Koad; at the end of Woodstock Road the
field-path to Cobham diverges to the right. "Cobham Hall, the line seat
of the Earl of Darnley, lies in the midst of a magnificent park, 7 M. in
circumference. (Tickets of admission to the house, which is open to
visitors on Fridays from 11 to 4 only, may be obtained at Caddel's Library,
King Street, Gravesend, and High Street, Rochester, price It. ; the proceeds
are devoted to charitable purposes.) The central portion of this fine
mansion was built by Inigo Jones (d. 1653) ; the wings date from the 16th
century. The interior was restored during the present century. The fine
collection of pictures includes a "Portrait of Ariosto and "Europa and
the Bull by Titian, "Tomyris with the head of Cyrus by Rubens, and
examples of Van Dyck, Lely, Kneller, etc. — The church of the village of
Cobham, at the entrance to the park, is celebrated for its splendid array
of brasses (14-16th cent.). The village inn is the 'Leather Bottel', in which
Mr. Tracy Tupman sought solitude and solace after the unhappy issue of
his affaire de coeur.
A good view is obtained from * Windmill Hill, the path to the top
of which is reached by crossing the bridge, turning to the right, passing
the S. E. Railway Station on the left, and crossing the canal locks.
Walkers may reach Maidstone (p. 35), 8 M. to the S., by a road lead-
ing through luxuriant hop-gardens (railway, see R. 3). About 4 ! /2 M. from
Rochester we pass Kits Coty House (p. 34); those who do not dread a
slight detour should descend thence to (IV2 M.) Aylesford (p. 34) and follow
the Medway to (3 M.) Maidstone.
34 M. Chatham. (Sun, close to the pier Mitre ; Bail. Refresh-
;

ment Rooms) is continuous with Rochester, though its bustling and

noisy streets form a striking contrast to the old-fashioned quiet of
the latter. It contains 46,800 inhab., and is one of the principal
naval arsenals and military stations in Great Britain. Much of the
town is irregularly and badly built. It is defended by strongly-
fortified lines, as well as by forts on the Medway. These lines are
often the scene of military manoeuvres, reviews, and sham-flghts,
which attract numerous visitors from London. In 1667 the Dutch
fleet under De Ruyter ascended the Medway as far as Chatham,
doing, however, no harm to the town. A Statue of Lieut. Waghorn
(1800-50), one of the chief advocates and promoters of the over-
land route to India, a native of Chatham, was erected here in 1888.
The *Royal Dockyard (adm. 10-1.30; special permission neces-
sary for the ropery, machine-shops, and foundries foreigners only
;

through their ambassadors), founded by Queen Elizabeth, extend

along the Medway for more than 2 M., and embrace an area of
about 500 acres. The wet-docks, graving-docks, building-slips,
wharves, etc., are all on a most extensive scale, one immense basin
having a width of 800 ft. and a quay frontage of 6000 ft. The
largest vessels in the navy can be built and fully equipped here.
The metal mill, for making copper sheets, bolts, etc., is particularly
interesting. About 3000 workmen, besides convicts, aTe regularly
22 Route 2. FAVERSHAM. From London

employed in the dockyard. The Prison contains 2000 convicts. The

Melville Hospital has accommodation for a large number of patients.
The barracks for the Royal Marines here are very spacious.
The military features of Chatham are nearly as conspicuous as
the naval. It is the depot for a large number of infantry regiments,
and about 6000 soldiers are usually in quarters here. The artillery
barracks are very extensive, accommodating 1000 men, while there
are also large barracks at the suburb of Brompton. It is also the
headquarters of the Royal Engineers, attached to whose barracks is
a small museum. In front of the Royal Engineers' Institute is a
bronze Statue of Gen. Gordon (d. 1885), seated on a camel, by E.
Onslow Ford, erected in 1890. Troops bound for India usually
embark at Chatham.
The best view of Chatham is obtained from Fort Pitt, above the
railway-station, which contains a large military hospital and an interest-
ing museum. On the opposite side of the Medway, farther down, stands
TIpnor Castle, built in the reign of Elizabeth, and afterwards used as a
powder-magazine.
Two tunnels. 35!/2 M. New Brompton. To the left are seen
the Brompton Lines. On the same side is Gillingham, with an old
hall of a palace which once belonged to the Archbishops of Canter-
bury, now used as a barn, and a handsome Perp. church, with a
very fine E. window. Gillingham Fort dates from the time of
Charles I. This district is famous for its cherry-orchards. 39 M. —
Rainham ; l 1 /^ M. to the N.E. is Vpchurch, known for its deposits
of Roman pottery. The line now runs parallel with the high-road,
the Roman Watling Street. —
M'^M. Newington, with a church
containing mediaeval brasses. — H1
^ M. Sittingbourne (Bull;
Lion; Rail. Refreshment Rooms), a brick-making town, formerly
visited by pilgrims on their way to Canterbury and by kings on their
way to the Continent.
Sittingbourne is the junction of a branch-line to (4'/2 M.) Queenborough,
the starting-point of the steamers to Flushing, and (7 M.) Sheemess (Foun-
tain, well spoken of; Wellington), an uninteresting town (14,000 inhab.)
at the mouth of the Medway, with strong fortifications and a dockyard
established in the reign of Charles II. Queenborough was so named in
honour of Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III., but a castle built here
by tliat monarch has vanished. A walk may be taken along the cliffs
from Sheerness to (3 M.) Minster, with a church containing the tomb of
Sir Robert Shurland, a lord of the manor, whose story has been com-
memorated in the 'Ingoldsby Legends' ('Grey Dolphin').
52 M. Faversham, pronounced Fevversham (Ship; Rail. Refmt.
Rooms), a small and ancient town with 7200 inhab., once the seat
of a famous abbey, where King Stephen, his wife Matilda, and his
son Eustace were buried. The parish-church is a fine E. E. build-
ing, with curious old paintings and carvings. Faversham is the
junction of the branch-line to Margate and Ramsgate (see below).

From Faveesham to Margate, 22 M., railway in 3/ 4 hr. (fares

5s., 3s., Is. 10d.); to Ramsgate, 27 M., in 1 hr. f fares 6s., is.,
2s. 3d.'). Fares from London to Margate or Ramsgate 15s., 10s. 6d.,
 to Dover. MARGATE. 2. Route. 23

68. 2d. returns 22s. 6d., 16s., 10«. special cheap fares in sum-
— This
; ;

mer. line runs to the E. along the coast. The firs,

station is (6y2 M.) Whitstable , celebrated for its 'natives' , con-
sidered the finest oysters in England. —
IOV2 M. Heme Bay
(Dolphin; Pier), a small -watering -place with a pier and a fine
esplanade.
An excursion may be made to the E. along the clifts to (3M.) Beculver
(King Ethelbert Inn), the Roman Regtilbium, one of the fortresses erected
to defend the channel then separating the district known as the Isle of
Thanet from the mainland. Some remains of the castrum still exist. King
Ethelbert afterwards had a palace here, and still later a Christian church
rose on its site. The church was taken down in 1804, but its two towers,
known as 'The Sisters' and originally erected, according to tradition, by
an Abbess of Faversham, to commemorate the escape of herself and her
sister from drowning, were restored by the Trinity Board as a landmark
for seamen. The sea is here steadily encroaching on the land. Coaches—
ply from Heme Bay to (T1 ^ M.) Canterbury (p. 25).
At (I872 M.) Birchington is the grave of Dante Gabriel Rossetti
(A. 1882), to whom a memorial window has been placed in the
church. Birchington and (20 M.) Westgate-on-Sea (Beach House
Hotel ; St. Mildred's) are also
frequented for sea-bathing, affording
greater quiet than Margate.
22 M. Margate (York; Cliftonville ; NaylandRock; White Hart;
Elephant, D. 3-4s. ; numerous private hotels, boarding-houses, and
lodgings Railway Refreshment Rooms), one of the most popular,
;

though not one of the most fashionable watering-places in England,

is situated on the N. coast of the Isle of Thanet. Pop. 16,000. Its
sandy beach is admirably adapted for bathers, and the Jetty (1240 ft.
long), the Pier (900 ft.), and the Marine Parade afford excellent
promenades. Its other attractions include a Hall-by-the-Sea (con-
certs), a Orotto (adm. 6d.), etc. On Saturdays and Sundays, in the
season, both Margate and Ramsgate (see p. 24) are uncomfortably
crowded with excursionists from London, brought in thousands by
railway and steamer. The Church of St. John is a Norman edifice
restored. On the cliffs a little to the "W. is the Royal Sea-Bathing
Infirmary.
In summer steamers ply daily from Margate to Ramsgate and London,
and coaches to (4'/2 M.) Ramsgate and (16 M.) Canterbury (p. 25), while
numerous special trains (S. E. R.) run to Canterbury in time for the
daily services. The walk to Ramsgate along the cliffs (about 6 M.) is a
very pleasant one. On the way we pass (3 M.) Kingsgate (Inn), so named
because Charles II. and the Duke of York landed here in 1683, with a
modern castle. About V2 M. farther to the S. is the North Foreland, the
Promontorium Acanlium of the Romans, off which the English fleet was
defeated by the Dutch in 1666. Visitors are admitted to the Lighthouse
(small gratuity). Broadstairs (see below) is V/t M. farther on. Other —
walks may be taken to the old mansion of Dandelion and the village of
Qarlinge, 2 M. to the W. to Westgate (see above) ; to Quex, Acol, Minster
;

(5»/2 M.), Salmstone Orange P/4 M.), etc.

The railway now crosses the isthmus, at some distance from
the sea, reaching the coast again at(25M.) Broadstairs (Grand; Bal-
lard's ; Victoria ; Albion), a quieter watering-place than Ramsgate
orMargate, named from trie breadth of its 'stair', or gap in the cliffs,
24 Route 2. RAMSGATE. From London

affording access to the sea. The old flint arch in Harbour St., called
York Oate, was erected to protect this passage. Broadstairs was a
favourite resort of George Eliot and Charles Dickens; the residence
of the latter is named Bleak House. About 1 M. inland is the
pretty little village of St. Peter's containing a church of the 12th
,

cent., with a fine flint tower added in the 16th century. —

Tunnel.
27 M. Ramsgate (* Granville, East Cliff, with good Turkish
and other baths, R. & A. 4s. 6d.-9s., D. 5s. Gd., B. 2s.-3s. Gd.;
Albion; Royal; Royal Oak; Bull; Railway Refreshment Rooms),
a bathing-place and seaport with 22,600 inhab., which may be de-
scribed as a somewhat less Cockneyfied edition of Margate. In the
height of the season (July and Aug. J, however, it is overrun by
nearly as many excursionists and George Eliot calls it 'a strip of
,

London come out for an airing'. The N. sands, extending towards

Broadstairs, are beautifully firm and smooth. The port is formed
by two stone piers, with a joint length of 3000 ft., and is of great
importance as a harbour of refuge. At the head of the W. pier is
a lighthouse. The Roman Catholic church of *St. Augustine, on
tbeW. cliff, ie, perhaps, the masterpiece of the elder Pugin, whose
house, the Grange, also designed by him, is close by. The Gran-
ville Hotel was built by his son E. W. Pugin. Farther to the E. is
East Cliff House, the residence of the late Sir Moses Monteriore
(d. 1885), the Hebrew philanthropist, who erected the Synagogue,
Mausoleum, and Alms Houses near St. Lawrence (see below).
About I72 M. to the W. of Ramsgate is Pegwell Bay (Inns), famous
for picnics and shrimps. It may be reached either on foot or by an
excursion-brake. Ebbsfteel, near the centre of the bay and about 3 M.
from Ramsgate, was the actual landing-place of St. Augustine and his
monks, and traditionally that of Hengist and Horsa.
Steamers ply regularly in summer from Ramsgate to London and
Margate, and coaches and excursion-brakes run to Margate, (17 M.) Canter-
bury, Pegwell Bay, Richborough (p. 25), etc. Special trains run to Canter-
bury in summer, in time for the daily services in the cathedral. —
The dangerous quicksands called the Goodwin Sands, on which several
ships are still lost every year in spite of the light-ships, lie about 7 M.
from Ramsgate and may be visited by sailing-boat. At low water the
sands become quite firm, and cricket-matches are sometimes played on
them. According to tradition these sands were once a fertile island, with
a mansion belonging to Karl Godwin, which totally disappeared during a
tremendous gale. The saying that Tenterden Steeple caused the Goodwin
Sands is generally cited as a striking example of popular haziness on
the relations of cause and effect; but an ingenious theory suggests that
the statement may mean that the disaster arose through the misappro-
priation of funds, intended to maintain a sea-wall, for the erection of the
church. See 'Memorials of the Goodwin Sands', by A. B. Oattie (1890).
FnoM Ramsgate to Deal, 15M., railway (S. E. R.) in 3 /t hr. (fares 2s. 2d.,
Is. 8d —
is. Id.). The first station is (1 M.) St. Lawrence (see above) and the
next (4 M.) Minster (not to be confounded with the place of the same name
near Sheerness, p. 22; Eail. Rfmt. Rooms), where the Deal line diverges to
the right from that to Canterbury (see p. 25). The handsome parish-church
of Minster (St. Mary's), with a Norman nave and E. E. chancel and
transepts, contains some interesting old stalls and miserere carvings. The
nunnery of Minster, founded by King Egbert of Kent in the 8th cent, in
expiation of the murder of his cousins, was at one time of considerable
importance. The high ground above Minster affords a splendid 'View.
 ;

to' Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 25

Soon after leaving Minster the train crosses the Stour and passes
"Richborough (to the right), the .Roman fortress of Rutupiae, constructed
to command the S. entrance of the channel the N. end of which was
,

guarded hy Regulbium (p. 23), and the principal landing-place of the

Roman troops from Gaul. Incredible as it now seems, there is no doubt
that Richborough was formerly close to the sea, and that a broad chan-
nel, forming the regular water-route from Northern France to London, ex-
tended from Sandwich to Reculver. Ebbslleet (p. 24) also is now at a con-
siderable distance from the sea. The deep channel made by the Stour
in the otherwise shallow Pegwell Bay is a relic of this ancient water-
way. The remains at Richborough are among the most interesting sur-
vivals of the Roman period in Britain and should certainly be visited
either from Ramsgate (5 M.) or Sandwich (2 M.). The best-preserved por-
tion is the N. wall of the fortress, 460 ft. in length. Near the N.E. corner
of the enclosure is 'St. Augustine's Cross', a cruciform basement of rubble,
resting on foundations of solid masonry and now believed to have support-
ed a lighthouse. Many thousands of Roman coins have been found at
Richborough, and also Saxon coins and other relics.
9 M. Sandwich (Bell; King's Bead; Fleur-de-Lis), one of the oldest
of the Cinque Ports (p. 41), was formerly one of the most important har-
bours and naval stations on the S. coast, described in the 11th cent, as
'omnium Anglorum portuum famosissimus' , but it is now 2 .M. from the
sea in a direct line, and accessible only by small river-craft. The singular
cognisance of the Cinque Ports, a half-lion and a half-boat, is still every-
where visible at Sandwich. It was surrounded by walls, the site of which
is now occupied by a public promenade ; one of the old gates, the Fisher
Gate, and a Tudor tower, called the Barbican, still exist. A colony of
Flemish artizans settled here in the time of Queen Elizabeth and have
left their mark in the names of the present inhabitants. The most inter-
esting buildings are St. Clement's Church, with its Norman tower; the Hos-
pital of St. Bartholomew, of the 12th cent. ; the Grammar School, 1564
and St. Thomas's Hospital, founded in 1392 but rebuilt in 1864. Queen
Elizabeth visited the town in 1572, and the house she occupied is pointed
out in Strand Street. To the S.E. of Sandwich are excellent golfing-links.
15 M. Deal ( Victoria ; Royal; Black Horse; Walmer Castle; Beach House
Temperance), another of the Cinque Ports, is also frequented for sea-bathing.
Deal Castle, now the private residence of Lord Clanwilliam, was built by
Henry VIII., like those of Sandown and Walmer, as a coast defence. Sandown
Castle, however, where Col. Hutchinson, the Parliamentary leader (p. 430),
died in 1664, has been demolished; it stood at the N. end of the town. The
'Downs', between the Goodwin Sands (p. 24) and the mainland, form an ex-
cellent harbour of refuge in stormy weather; but the Deal boatmen have
still no lack of opportunity of displaying the courage and skill in aiding
distressed mariners for which they have so long been famous. On the S.
Deal is adjoined by Walmer, with Walmer Castle, the official residence
of the Lord. Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died
here in 1852, and the rooms occupied by him, as well as that in which
William Pitt, another Lord Warden, held consultation with Nelson, are
shown in the absence of the present Warden, Earl Granville. Lower
Walmer is an important military depot, with large barracks and a naval
hospital. The low shore near Deal is generally believed to have been
the first landing-place of Julius Cfesar in Britain. — Deal is connected
with (9 M.) Dover (p. 14) by a joint line of the S. E. R. and L. C. D. R.
but fair walkers will find it pleasant to go by the cliffs, passing Kings-
down, St. Margaret's (p. 16), and the South Foreland Lighthouses.

Continuation of Main Line. Beyond Faversham the train

(55y2 M.) Selling, and soon reaches
turns to the S. E., passes —
62 M. Canterbury (Fountain ; Rose ; Fleur-de-Lys Railway ;

Refreshment Rooms), the ecclesiastical metropolis of England,

26 Route 2. CANTERBURY. From London

containing 21,700 inhabitants, and pleasantly situated on the

Stour, which runs through it in two main branches. It is an an-
cient city, with numerous quaint old houses, and has been the seat
of an archbishop since the 6th century. St. Augustine was appoint-
ed Archbishop of all England, but Archbp. Theodore (668-693) was
the first who obtained the practical recognition of his primacy from
the English bishops , and it was not till after the murder of Tho-
mas Becket (1170) that Canterbury became the undisputed centre
of the religious life of England.
The site of Canterbury was occupied in pre-Roman times by the Brit-
ish village of Durwhem ('dwr\ water), which the Romans converted into
one of the first military stations on the high-road to London, Latinizing
the name as Durovemum. When the Saxons or Jutes invaded England
they named it Cantwarabyrig, or burgh of the men of Kent, whence its
present name is derived. Towards the end of the 6th cent. C^ueen Bertha
established a small Christian church on St. Martin's Hill, and in A.D.
597 St. Augustine arrived here from Rome to convert heathen England.
King Ethelbert received him with great friendliness, and embraced Chris-
tianity with 10,000 of his people, while Augustine became the first
Archbishop of Canterbury. The subsequent history of Canterbury merges,
through the archbishops, to a great extent in that of the country at large.
The names of Dunstan (960-9SS), Lanfranc (1070-93), Anselm (1093-1114), Tho-
mas Becket (1162-1170), Stephen Langton (1207-1229), Cranmer (1533-56), Pole
(1556-9), Laud (1633-60), and many others are inseparably connected with
English political and social history. Since the Revolution, however, the
attention of the primates has been more strictly confined to ecclesiasti-
cal affairs.— The present archbishop is the Most Rev. Edward Benson,
D. D., created in 1883. The income of the see is 15,000/.

The Cathedral, which naturally the great centre of attraction

is
at Canterbury, lies near the middle of the town, about ^j% M. from
each of the railway-stations. Emerging from the London, Chatham,
$ Dover Station, on the S. side of the town we see in front of
,

us the pleasure-grounds of the Dane John (Donjon), bounded on

one side by part of the old city-wall ; the Dane John itself is a
tumulus 80 ft. high, surmounted by an obelisk and commanding
a good view. We
turn to the left and then enter Castle St. to the
right ,where the Norman keep of the Castle , now used as gas-
works, rises on the left. (At the back of the Castle, on the river
Stour, stands St. Mildred's Church, containing some Roman work.)
At the end of Castle St. we cross Watling Street (p. 22), which
runs through Canterbury, and then follow St. Margaret's St., pass-
ing St. Margaret's Church , to High Street, which we reach oppos-
ite Mercery Lane, leading to the Cathedral.
The South Eastern Station is on the W. side of the town. We
first follow Station St. to the right for about 100 yds., to the
point where it joins the line of streets leading straight (to the left)
to High Street. We
may first, however follow St. Dunstan St.
,

to the right, which leads in 3 min. Dunstan' s Church, an

to St.
edifice of the 14th cent., with a square and a semicircular tower.
It contains the burial-vault of the Roper family, in which the head
of Sir Thomas More (d. 1535) is said to lie, placed here by his
daughter, Margaret Roper. On the other side of the street is the
CANTERBUhT iM.nLuijsi..
 to Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 27

gateway of the Ropers' mansion. Returning to the end of Station

St., we now follow the street called Westgate Without to the West
Gate, a handsome embattled structure, built at the end of the 14th
cent, on the site of a more ancient one, and the only city-gate now
remaining. To the left, just outside the gate, is the quaint little
Falstaff Inn , with its sign hung from an iron standard. Just
inside the gate , to the right , is the venerable-looking Church
of the Holy Cross (rebuilt at the same time as the gate), containing
an ancient font, an old panelled ceiling (chancel), and some 'mi-
serere' carvings. A little farther on we cross the Stour and enter
the High Stbeet, in which, immediately to the right, is St. Bar-
tholomew's Hospital originally erected by Thomas Becket for the
,

accommodation of poor pilgrims (visitors admitted). On the oppos-

ite side of the street, farther on, is the Guildhall, which contains
some ancient arms and portraits of local notabilities. In Guild*
hall St., here diverging to the left, is the Museum (open 10-11,
free), with interesting collections of Roman and Anglo-Saxon anti-
quities, natural history, and geology. We
have now again reached
Mercery Lane (see p. 26), so called because it used to be devoted
to the sale of small wares to the pilgrims (medallions of St. Thomas,
phials of holy water, etc.). At the S. W. (left) comer stood the
Chequers Inn, the regulaT hostelry of the pilgrims (comp. Chau-
cer's 'Canterbury Tales'); some remains of the old inn may be traced
in the court-yard entered from High Street.
From the end of Mercery Lane we enter the cathedral-precincts
by Christchurch Gate, a tine late-Perpendicular structure, erected
by Prior Goldstone in 1517. From the gateway we obtain a good
general view of the Cathedral, with its W. towers, its noble cen-
tral tower, and its double set of transepts. The present ''Cathe-
dral (Christchurch), which is the third church on the same site,
represents architectural history extending over fourj centuries
(1070-1495), but its general external appearance, at least when
viewed from the W., is that of a magnificent building in the Per-
pendicular style. 'The history of Canterbury Cathedral has been
so carefully preserved by contemporary records and these have
,

been so thoroughly investigated by Professor Willis, and compared

with the existing structure, that we may almost put a date upon
every stone of this magnificent fabric it is therefore our best and
;

safest guide in the study of the architecture of that period in Eng-

land' (Parker). It is said that a Christian church, afterwards used
as a pagan temple, was built here in Roman-British times by King
Lucius ; and that this was presented by Ethelbert, along with his
palace, to St. Augustine (p. 26), who converted the buildings into
a cathedral and monastery. Augustine's cathedral afterwards fell
into decay and became more than once the prey of the flames and
of the pillaging Danes, who carried off and murdered Archbp. Alphege
in 101 1 ;and at the time of the Norman Conquest it had almost
 ;

28 Route 2 CANTERBURY From London

entirely ('isappeared. Lanfranc (1070-89), the first Norman arch-

bishop accordingly undertook the erection of a completely new
,

cathedral a work which was continued by his successor Anselm

,

and the Priors Ernulph and Conrad, and finished in 1130.

The last-named completed the choir in such a magnificent style,
that it was known as the 'Glorious Choir of Conrad'. The choir
of this second or Norman cathedral (the church in which Becket
was murdered) was burned down in 1174; and the present choir,
in the Transition style from Norman to Early English, was erected
in its place by the architect, William of Sens, who may almost be
said to have introduced the Pointed style into England, and his
successor William the Englishman (1174-1180). The old. Norman
nave and transepts remained intact for 200 years more, when they
were replaced by the present Perpendicular structure (1378-1410),
the main credit for which is generally given to Prior Chillenden
(1390-1421). The great central tower, called the Bell Harry Tower,
was added by Prior Qoldstone in 1495. The N. W. tower is modern,
the older one having been pulled down, with doubtful wisdom, to
make one to match its S. W. neighbour. The principal dimensions
of the cathedral are total length 514 ft., length of choir 180 ft.
:

breadth of nave and aisles 71 ft. height of the nave 80 ft., of choir
;

71 ft., of central tower 235 ft., of W. towers 152 ft.

The Cathedral is open to visitors from 9.30 a. m. to the close
of the evening service, except during the daily services at 10 a. m.
and 3 p. m. (4 p. m. in Nov., Dec, Jan., Feb.); a fee of 6d. is
charged for admission to the choir and crypt. The principal en-
trance is by the South Porch, built by Prior Chillenden in 1400,
above which is a panel with a curious old sculpture representing
the altar of Becket's Martyrdom, and a sword lying in front of it.
The figures of the murderers have long since been removed from
the niches, which are now, like those on the W. front filled with,

modern figures of kings, archbishops, and other dignitaries con-

nected with the history of the cathedral. Comp. Dean Stanley's
'Historical Memorials of Canterbury' and Willis's 'Architectural
History of Canterbury Cathedral'.
Interior. The Nave produces an effect of wonderful lightness in spite
of its huge proportions. It is mainly the work of Prior Chillenden (see
above). The stained glass is modern, except the great W. window, which
is put together from fragments of old glass, pieced out where necessary
by modern additions. The monuments are of little general interest. On the
arches of the piers of the great central tower may be seen the rebus
of its builder, Prior Goldstone.
The Nave Transepts are similar in style to the nave, though differ-
ing from it and from each other in details. Parts of Lanfranc's masonry
seem to have been retained as the kernel of the walls and of the piers
supporting the tower. The N.W. transept is of special interest as the scene
of Thomas Becket's murder on Dec. 29th, 1170. The four barons approached
by the door on the W. side of the transept, leading from the cloisters,
through which the Archbishop with his clerks had previously entered the
church where Vespers were being sung. Becket refused to take refuge
,

either in the vaults or roof of the cathedral and was cut down by the
 to Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 29
murderers, standing in front of the wall (still «'» situ) between the chapel
of St. Benedict and the passage to the crypt. What is believed to be the
exact spot where he fell is still pointed out and is marked by a small
square incision in the pavement. The large window of this transept con-
tains figures of Edward IV. (1461-83) and his queen, ElizabethWoodville, who
presented the window to the cathedral. Another window represents the
life and death of Becket. To the E. of the transept, and separated from
it by an open screen, is the Lady Chapel (1449-68), also called the Deans'
Chapel, from the number of these dignitaries buried in it. It occupies the
place of the Norman chapel of St. Benedict, mentioned above, and has a rich
fan -vaulted roof. The corresponding chapel, opening from the S.W.
transept, is dedicated to St. Michael and known as the Warriors' Chapel,
It contains the tomb of Archbp. Stephen Lang ton (1207-29), the champion of
national liberty against King John. Here also is the monument of Mar-
garet Holland, daughter of the Earl of Kent, with her two husbands, the
Earl of Somerset and the Duke of Clarence (son of Henry IV.).
The *Choik, one of the longest in England (180 ft.), is elevated several
feet above the nave, a peculiarity which occurs elsewhere among English
cathedrals only at Rochester, the cathedral of which is evidently an imi-
tation of Canterbury (comp. p. 9). The beautiful Screen between the
nave and the choir is a work of the 15th cent., and is adorned with stat-
ues of six English kings. The grand Norman arches, supported by circular
and octagonal piers alternately, here furnish a striking contrast to those
of the nave. The triforium arcade with its combination of circular and
pointed arches is an excellent example of the transition from Romanesque
to Gothic, and recalls, in some respects, the cathedral of Sens, with which
the architect must have been familiar. The visitor will note the singular
ctirved outline of the choir, caused by the manner in which the walls
trend inward at the E. end. This is due to the fact that William of
Sens, wishing to preserve the towers of St. Anselm and St. Andrew, which
had survived the fire that destroyed the earlier buildings, narrowed his
choir here so as to pass between them. The screens separating the choir
from its aisles were executed by Prior Estria in 1304-5; they are broken
at intervals by the canopied tombs of archbishosp, the most conspicuous
of which is that of Archbp. Chichele (1414-43), founder of All Souls Col-
lege (p. 235). Nearly opposite is a memorial of Archbp. Tail (d. 1883).
The reredos, altar, and archbishop's throne are modern. The oruan is
ingeniously concealed in the triforium, and nothing of it is visible below
except the manuals. Part of the stained glass of the choir-aisles dates
from the 13th century. At the W. end is a painting of Becket's Death, by
Cross. This aisle incorporates some remains of the earlier Norman choir,
and the triforium windows of the N.E. Transept are also by Prior Ernulph.
At the E. end of the N. aisle is the entrance to St. Andrew's Tower (see
above), the ground-floor of which is now used as a vestry. At the E. end
of the S. aisle of the choir is the corresponding Towek of St. Anselm,
also a survival from the older church, with a Decorated window inserted
about 1335. The chapel contains the tombs of Archbps. Anselm (d. 1108;
no monument), Bradwardine (d. 1319), and Meopham (d. 1333). Above it is
a small room, with a grating looking into Trinity Chapel, used by the
guardian of the treasures at Becket's shrine (see below). Among the monu-
ents in the aisle are those of Archbishops Simon of Sudbury (1375-81 ; beheaded
by Wat Tyler), Stratford (1333-69), Kempt (1452-54), Fitz-Walter (1193-1207),
and Reynolds (1313-28).
From the E. end of the choir-aisles flights of steps ascend to the
Trinitt Chapel, which, with the 'Corona' behind it, is the work of
William the Englishman, 'small in body, but in workmanship of many
kinds acute and honest', who succeeded William of Sens, when that
unfortunate architect crippled himself by a fall from the clerestory.
This was the site of the Shrine of Thomas Becket , who was canonized
soon after his death and became the most popular of English saints. It
was, indeed, the fame of St. Thomas that made Canterbury Cathedral,
which had previously been overshadowed by the adjoining Monastery of
St. Augustine, the greatest centre of interest among the ecclesiastical
3<> 2. Route CANTERBURY. From London
establishments of England. His body was interred here in 1220, and the
shrine was adorned with such magnificence that Erasmus, who visited it
in 1512, tells us 'gold was the meanest thing to be seen'. The shrine was
destroyed, its treasures confiscated, and the body of St. Thomas burned by
Henry VIII. (1538); and the only remaining trace of the shrine is the pave-
ment that surrounded it, worn away by the knees of thousands of pious
pilgrims. [According to one version of the story, however, the relics
were not burned but re-interred ; and some remains found here in a
stone coffin in 1888 are believed by many to be those of Thomas Becket.]
The Stained Glass Windows of the chapel, of the 13th cent., depict the
miracles of St. Thomas. On the N. side of this chapel is the handsome
marble Monument of Henry IV. (1399-1413) , the only king buried in the
cathedral. His tomb is shared by his second wife, Joan of Navarre. Be-
hind the tomb is the Chantry of Henry IV. On the opposite side of
Trinity Chapel is the Monument of Edward, the Black Prince (d. 1376),
with a brazen effigy above hang the prince's gauntlets, helmet, and
;

shield. St. Dunstan's Shrine used to be in the Black Prince's Chantry,

where the head of the effigy has lately been discovered. Some remark-
able diaper work and other remains of it are incorporated in the S. E.
screen, near Archbp. Stratford's memorial.
The extreme E. part of the Cathedral is formed by the beautiful
chapel called the 'Corona, which formerly contained an altar with a frag-
ment of Becket's skull. On the N. side stands the Monument of Cardinal
Pole (d. 1559), the last Roman Catholic Archbishop and the last Archbishop
interred in the Cathedral. The Corona also contains the so-called Chair of St.
Augustine (13th cent.), in which the archbishops sit at their installation.
The entrance to the *Crypt, which is very spacious, is from the W.
transept. This is the crypt of the early Norman church, and it has been
supposed that some of its pillars may even have belonged to the original
Roman church on this site. In 15S1 Queen Elizabeth placed the crypt
at the disposal of the French and Flemish refugees in England, who long
carried on their silk manufacture here ; and part of it is still occupied as
a French church by their descendants. The E. part of the crypt formed
the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft and was formerly very richly decorated.
The body of Thomas Becket lay here for 50 years after his death, and
this was the scene of Henry II.'s penance. Traces of interesting old painting
have lately been brought to light in a chapel on the N. side of the crypt.
It is also worth noticing that some of the capitals in the crypt are only
half-carved, their execution having probably been stopped by the fire of 1174.
We now quit the cathedral and enter the precincts, which contain
some interesting remains of the monastery, originally founded by St.
Augustine and re-established by Lanfranc.
The Cloisters, in the late-Perpendicular style, are entered from the
N.W. transept and are in good preservation. The coats-of-arms at the
intersections of the arches are those of benefactors of the cathedral.
On the N. side are two fine doorways, and in the N.W. corner is a curious
hatch communicating with the cellarer's lodgings. — To the E. of the
cloisters is the Chapter House, or Sermon House, to which the congre-
gation retired after prayers; the lower part is E.E, the upper part was
built at the beginning of the 15th century. The panelled ceiling is of
Irish oak. The Chapter House is adjoined on the N. by the Library,
an old Norman structure (restored), containing a collection of Bibles, Prayer-
Eooks, and MSS. Farther to the E. is the Norman Baptistery. — A pas-
sage called the 'Dark Entry'' (see the 'Ingoldsby Legends'), reached by
steps descending from the N.E. transept, leads from the cathedral to the
Prions Gateway and the Green Court which was formerly surrounded by
,

monastic buildings. To the E. of it now lies the Deanery, and on the N.

is the old Strangers'' Hall. The gate in the N.E. corner of the Green Court
was formerly the entrance to this hall. — To the N. of the E. end of the
cathedral is a passage called the Brick Walk, on the right side of which
is a row of arches in an early-Norman style, belonging to the Monks^
Infirmary. At the end of the Brick Walk is an; old house called the
Maister Honours, formerly the state-room of the priory.
 ;

to Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 31

To the N.W. are the remains of the old Archbishop's Palace, including
a fine arched gateway in Palace Street. —
Visitors who wish to enjoy
the view from the top of the Bell Harry or Central Tomer (235 ft.) must
obtain permission from the Dean or one of the Canons in residence.
At the N. W. comer of the Green Court (p. 30) is the King's
School, founded by Archbp. Theodore (7th cent.), 'for the study of
Greek', and refounded by HenTy VIII. it numbers Christ. Marlowe,
;

Thurlow, Harvey (discoverer of the circulation of the blood), and

Robert Boyle among former pupils, and still enjoys a considerable
reputation among English schools. The approach to the upper hall
is by a beautiful external *Staircase, with open arcades at the sides,
the only Norman structure of the kind in the country.
Next to the Cathedral, perhaps the most interesting object in
Canterbury is the quaint little *Church of St. Martin, the 'Mother
Church of England'. It lies on the hill to the E., 3/4 M. from the
Cathedral, and is reached from Mercery Lane by Burgate St., Church
St., and Longport St. The keys are kept at No. 26 in the last, but
during the day the verger is generally at the church.
There is little doubt that there was a Christian church here in pre-
Saxon days, which had been fitted up as a chapel for Queen Bertha,
wife of Ethelbert (p. 26), prior to the arrival of St. Augustine. King
Ethelbert is said to have been baptized here in the old font, the lower
part of which is probably of Saxon date. An old stone coffin is shown
as that of Queen Bertha. Part of the walls, which contain numerous
Roman bricks, may belong to the original church; the chancel was
rebuilt in the E. E. period. The stained glass is modern. —
The churchyard
commands a fine view of the city. On the tomb of Dean Afford (A. 1871),
is the touching epitaph: 'Deveraorium Viatoris Hierosolymam Proficis-
centis' ('the inn of a traveller on his way to Jerusalem').
On the way to St. Martin's we pass at the corner of Longport
,

St., one of the gates of the old *Monastekt op St. Augustine, now
restored and occupied as a Missionary College (adm. free after 3 p.m.;
all day in vacation). It is, however, better to diverge here to the
left and enter by the main *Oate (1300), a little farther down.
The monastery, a Benedictine house, was established by St. Augustine
soon after the foundation of the Cathedral and Christchurch Monastery.
At the Reformation it was seized by Henry VIII. for a palace, and after-
wards passed through various private hands, being finally used as a
brewery. In 1844 the ruins were bought by Mr. Beresford Hope, who
caused a Missionary College for about 50 students to be erected, incor-
porating as much as possible of the old monastery. —
On passing through
the main gateway we find ourselves in a fine court, with the tasteful
modern buildings of the College to the left. These include a large Library,
with a valuable Oriental collection (below, an ancient crypt) a Chapel ;

picturesque Cloisters; and a Sail, being the Guest Hall of the old monas-
tery, with its original oaken roof. To the right are the remains of the
old Church. Within the grounds is the Kent and Canterbury Hospital.
Among the remaining points of interest in Canterbury may be
enumerated St. John's Hospital founded by Lanfranc in North-
, ,

gate St., to the N. of the Cathedral ; St. Alphege's Church, near the W.
end of the Cathedral, dedicated to the martyred archbishop (p. 27)
and containing some old brasses St. Stephen's with some Norman
; ,

work, near the S.E. Station; the ruins of St. Sepulchre's Nunnery,
where Elizabeth Barton, the 'Holy Maid of Kent', was a nun (temp.
32 Route 2. CANTERBURY.

Henry VIII. ), to the S. of the city; the modern Roman Catholic

Church of St. Thomas, with an elaborately adorned interior the large ;

Open- Air Swimming Bath, on the Stour, to the S.W. of the town,
and the extensive Barracks, to the N. E. Parts of the old City
Wall are visible in Broad St., to the E. of the Cathedral.
About IV2 M. to the W. of Canterbury, on the London road, is the
village of Harbledown (the 'Bob up-and-down' of Chaucer) , with the
Hospital of St. Nicholas, originally founded for lepers by Archbp. Lanfranc.
No part of the present buildings is ancient, except portions of the church.
Fine view of Canterbury. —
Barfreslon Church (see below) is 10 M. to
the S.W. —
Coaches to Margate and Bamsgate, see pp. 23, 24.
Feom Canterbury to Ramsgate, 15 M., S. E. Railway in l j-ir z li hr.
(fares 3s. 2d., 2s. 6d., Is. id.). —
2'/jH. Slurry; 61/2 M. Grove Ferry, 5 M.
to the S. of Reculver (p. 23). At (11 M.) Minster we join the Ramsgate
and Deal railway (see p. 24).
From Canterbury to Shorncliffe, 18 M., railway (S.E.R.) in 3/4 nr -

The station is (1 M.) South Canterbury, close to the county cricket-

first
ground. The line runs through the Elham Valley. At (18 M.) Shorncliffe
we join the line mentioned at p. 14 (for Folkestone and Dover).
A short line runs from Canterbury to (6 M.) Whitslable (p. 23).
Canterbury may also be reached from London by the S. E. Railway
via Ashford (see p. 13), a somewhat longer route (70 If.; same fares).
Beyond Canterbury the train passes (65 M.) Bekesbourne and
(68 M.) AdUham, with an E. E. church. From (72 M.) Shepherd's
Well or Sielertswold the ecclesiologist should pay a visit to Barfres-
ton Church (pronounced 'Barson'), a small but highly interesting
Norman building, situated l'/2 M. to the N. E. The walk may be
continued to the S. to Waldershare, the Earl of Guildford's house
and park, 2M. to the E. of Shepherd's Well. The train then pene- —
trates a long tunnel and reaches (75 M.) Kearsney, the junction of
the line to Deal (see p. 25). Kearsney Abbey, the residence of the
Marquis of Ely, is modern. To the N.E. t/g M. from the station, ,

is the village of Ewell, where King John had his first interview
with Pandulf, the Pope's Legate, before resigning his crown at
Dover (1213). —
We now thread another tunnel, pass (77 M.) Dover
Priory, and reach 78 M. Dover Town. Passengers for the Conti-
nent keep their seats and are carried on to the Admiralty Pier, where
the steamers start.
Dover, see p. 14.

3. From London to Maidstone.

42 ! /2 M. South Eastern Railway from Charing Cross, Cannon Street,
and London Bridge in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares 8s., 5s. 6d.,3s. 3d. ; return 12s.
6d., 8s. 6(2., 5».). —
The London, Chatham, anp Dover Line to Maidstone
(41 M.; same times and fares) from Victoria and Ilolborit diverges from
the Rochester line at (17'/2 M.) Swanley (see p. 18) and runs thence via
Olford (for Sevenoaks, p. 12), Wrotham (31 M.), and Mailing (p. 35).
As far as Dartford the South Eastern Railway has two lines,
one running Woolwich and the other via, Eltham.
via.
1. To Dabtfoed via Woolwich. On quitting London Bridge
station the train first traverses the busy manufacturing districts of
Bermondsey and Rotherhithe. It then stops' at (3 M.) New_Cross,
 to Maidstone. ELTHAM. 3. Route. 33

St. John's,and (6 M.) Lewisham Junction. The train next passes

through a tunnel, about 1 M. in length, and arrives at (7 M.)
Blackheath (see Baedeker's London). Then (9 M.) Charlton, close
to the station of which is the old manor-house of the same name.
We next pass through two tunnels, and reach (10 M.) Woolwich
Dockyard, followed immediately by Woolwich Arsenal (see Bae-
deker's London). —
HV4 M. Plumstead, with Plumstead Marshes
on the left. —
13 M. Abbey Wood, a small village of recent origin,
with pleasant surroundings, and some scanty remains of Lesnes
Abbey, an Augustine foundation of the 12th century. To the left is
Crossness, with the pumping-station of the Main London Sewerage.
— Close to(14M.) Belvedere lies Belvedere House, an asylum for aged
seamen. —
1572 M. Erith, pleasantly situated on the Thames, at the
base of a wooded hill, with a picturesque ivy-clad church. The
train crosses the Cray and reaches (17 M.) Hartford (see below).
2. To Dartford via Eltham. Beyond (5Y2 M.) St. John's (see
above) the train passes (7^) ^ ee * n the churchyard of which lies
>

Halley, the astronomer (d. 1741).

9 M. Eltham (Greyhound; Chequers) is prettily situated among
trees, with the villas of numerous London merchants. About i /i M.
to the N. of the station lie the remains of *Eltham Palace,, a fa-
vourite royal residence from Henry III. (1216-72) to Henry VIII.
(1509-1547). Queen Elizabeth often lived here in her childhood.
The palace is popularly known as 'King John's Bam', perhaps
because the king has been confounded with John of Eltham, son of
Edward II., who was born here.
Part of the moat surrounding the palace is still filled with water,
and we cross it by a picturesque old bridge. Almost the only relic of
the building is the fine "Banqueting Hall (key kept in the adjacent lodge),
somewhat resembling Crosby Hall in London in general style and dating
like it from the reign of Edward IV. (1461-83). The hall was long used
as a barn, and some of its windows are still bricked up. The "Roof is
of chestnut. Adjoining the hall on the left is the Court House, a pictur-
esque gabled building, formerly the buttery of the Palace.
There were originally three parks attached to Eltham Palace,
one of which, the Middle Park, has attained some celebrity in mod-
ern days as the home of the Blenkiron stud of race-horses. The
Great Park has been built over. —
The Church of Eltham was
rebuilt in 1874 in the churchyard are buried Bishop Home (d. 1792),
;

the commentator of the Psalms, and Doggett, the comedian, founder

of 'Doggett's Coat and Badge', an annual prize for Thames watermen
(see Baedeker's London). Van Dyck had summer-quarters at Eltham
during his stay in England (1632-41), probably in the palace.
Pleasant walks may be taken from Eltham to (4 M.) Woolwich, across
Shooter's Hill; to (4 M.) Greenwich, crossing Blackheath and Greenwich Park;
and to (3 M.) Chislehurst (p. 12).
131/2 M. Bexley. The train now crosses the Cray to (15!/4 M.)
Crayford and (17 M.) Dartford.
Dartford (Bull; Victoria) is a busy town of 11 ,000 inhab. , with
a large paper-mill, the drug-factory of Messrs. Burroughs & Wel-
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 3
 —

34 Route 3. AYLESFORD. From London

come, a gunpowder-factory, and the City of London Lunatic Asy-

lum. The first paper-mill in England was erected here in the reign
of Elizabeth (1558-1603). The tomb of the founder is in the
church, and from his crest (a fool's cap) foolscap paper derives
its name. Dartford was the abode of Wat Tyler, who began his
revolt here by killing the poll-tax collector (1381). —We now cross
the Darent and skirt the bank of the Thames. 20 M. Qreenhiihe
with villas and chalk-quarries. In the river here are moored two
or three training-ships. Near Greenhithe are Stone Church, supposed
to have been built by the architect of Westminster Abbey and Ingress
,

Abbey, at one time occupied by the father of Sir Henry Havelock.

22 M. Northfleet, with chalk-pits, cement- factories, a fine old
church containing some monuments of the 14th cent., a college
for indigent ladies and gentlemen, and a working-man's club (a con-
spicuous red and white brick building).
24 M. Gravesend (Clarendon; New and Old Falcon; Talbot;
Rosherville), a favourite river-resort of the Londoners, with the pop-
ular Rosherville Gardens, is described with more detail in Bae-
deker's London. A steam-ferry plies to Tilbury (p. 450).
A branch-line runs hence through the Hoo District to (16 M.) Port
Victoria, in the Isle of Grain and at the mouth of the Medway, opposite
Sheerness (p. 22). — One of the most popular excursions from Gravesend
is that to Cobham Hall (p. 21) , which lies about 4 M. to the S. (tickets
obtained at Caddel's Library, King St., price Is.).
287-2*1. Higham, iy2 M. to the S. of which is Gad's Hill (p. 20).
We then pass through a long tunnel (2 M.) , with a break in the
middle, and reach (31 M.) Strood and Rochester (see p. 18).
The train now runs along the left bank of the Medway, afford-
ing a fine view of the cathedral and castle as we leave Rochester.
Beyond the river are the chalk hills forming the 'backbone of
Kent'. Near (34 M.) Cu.vton and (36 M.) Snodland the beauty of
the valley is seriously marred by the numerous chalk-quarries and
lime andcementworks. The scenery, however, improves greatly at
39 M. Aylesford (George Inn), charmingly situated on the river,
with its church rising high above the red-roofed cottages.
Aylesford is the traditional site of a great battle between the British
prince Vortigern and the Saxons under Hengist and Horsa, whose direct
northward march seems to have been deflected to the E. at Rochester
(comp. Green's 'Making of England', p. 35). The name, derived from the
Saxon Bglesford, is supposed to be connected with the Celtic Eglwys, a
ch «™h. Aylesford was the birthplace of Sir Charles Sedley the poet
,

(1639-1701), one of whose family founded an alms-house here in the time

of James I., still existing in an altered form. On the right bank of the
Medway, */4 M. below the village, is the Friars, a seat of Lord Aylesford,
taking its name from an old Carmelite monastery. On the other side of
the river is Preston Hall, a modern Tudor mansion on the site of the
ancient seat of the Colepeppers. The Church, partly of Norman workman-
ship, contains some interesting monuments of the Colepepper family.
Aylesford is the best starting-point for a visit to the interesting
cromlech called "Kits Coty House, which lies on the chalk hills, l'/a M.
tci the N.E., close to the road from Rochester to Maidstone. The crom-
lech consists of three upright stones of 'Sarsen' sandstone, each about
y ft. high, with a fourth, 12 ft. long, lying transversely across them. Each
 ;

to Maidstone. MAIDSTONE. 3. Route. 35

Stone weighs from 8 to lO 1 ^ tons. Tradition makes this monument the

tomb of a British chief, and the name may mean simply the 'tomb in
the wood' (Welsh coed, 'wood'). Recent investigation seems to indicate
that this was the site of a British cemetery and that the whole district
was consecrated to religious uses. In a field between Kits Coty House
and Aylesford is another group of monoliths known as the 'Countless
Stones', from the superstition, frequently met with elsewhere, that they
cannot be counted twice with the same result; and there would seem to
have been a complete avenue of similar stones extending from Kits Coty
House to the village of Addington, 6 M. to the W.
Aylesford is about 3 M. from Maidstone, the walk to which along
the river is very attractive, especially in the hop -picking season. At
(IV2 M.) Allington we cross the river by the lock-gates and reach the
Castle, which once belonged to Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, who was
born here in 1503. From the castle we ascend to the little Church, and
proceed thence by a footpath through the hop-gardens to Maidstone.
Beyond Aylesford the train passes Allington Castle (see above
and (41 V2 M.) Maidstone Barracks station.
to the left)
42Y2M. Maidstone. — Hotels. Star, Mitke, in the High St. Bell, ;

Week St., an old-fashioned house, commended in 'Pepys's Diary' Railway ;

Hotel, adjoining the S.E. Station, R., A., & B. 5s. 3d. — Rail. Refreshment
Rooms.
Railway Stations. The S. E. R. Station is at the W. end of the town,
beyond the bridge; the L. C. & D. Station is at the N. end of Week St.
Maidstone (the 'town on the Medway'), the county-town of Kent,
a prosperous-looking place with upwards of 30,000 inhab., is pleas-
antly situated on both banks of the Medway, which is here crossed
by a substantial modern bridge. The chief object of interest is the
formerly collegiate *Church of All Saints a fine Perp. structure,
,

of which a striking view is obtained from the bridge. It was

mainly built by Archbp. Courtenay, who died here in 1396, and
contains good stalls and sedilia, the interesting tomb of Wootton,
first Master of the College (1417), some old monuments of county
families and an arcaded screen between the nave and chancel.
,

Adjoining the church is the College of All Saints, established

by Archbp. Courtenay and dissolved by Henry VIII. The buildings,
which include a fine arched gateway and two towers, are inter-
esting specimens of 14th cent, architecture. To the N. of the
church is the former Palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury,
now a school of art and science and opposite, to the E. of the
;

church, is a range of out-buildings, with a singular external stair-

case, probably older than any part of the palace itself.
The *Maidstone Museum, in Faith St., installed in Chillington
House, a well-preserved specimen of a town-mansion of the 16th
cent., contains very interesting collections of pictures, antiquities,
and objects of natural history.
Environs. Maidstone lies in the midst of a very attractive country,
and numerous pleasant excursions may be made from it.
1. The walk to Allington, (3 M.) Aylesford, and (H/2 M.) Kit*. Coty
House has been described in the reverse direction above. From the crom-
lech the walk may be extended to (41/2 M.) Rochester (see p. 21), whence
we may return by train.
2. At West or Town Mailing, a station on the L.C.D. Railway, 6 M.
to the W. of Maidstone, are the remains of a Benedictine abbey founded
3*
36 Route 4. TUNBRIDGE WELLS. From London

by Bishop Gundulf of Rochester (p. 19). To the S. is the so-called St.

Leonard's Toirer, the keep of a castle also erected by Gundulf (ca. 1070),
the architecture of which is, according to Parker, of earlier character
than that of any keep in Normandy. Addington, with some British re-
mains (see p. 35), lies about 2>/2 M. to the N.W. of Town Mailing.
3. About 2 11, to the N. E. of Maidstone is Boxley Abbey, a Cistercian
establishment of the 12th cent., now incorporated with a modern man-
sion. To reach it we follow the Rochester road to a point a little beyond
(IV2 M.) Handling, where we diverge to the right by a footpath skirting
.1 small affluent of the Medway. Wemay return to Maidstone across Penen-
den, Heath, famous for its ancient folkmotes and modern political meetings.
4. The Ashford road, leading E. from Maidstone, passes (1 M.) Mole
Park (to the right) and (IV2 M.) Bearsted, with a Perp. church - to wer,
and soon reaches (2 M.) the park of "Leeds Castle, one of the finest
country-seats in Kent, dating mainly from the 13th cent., though other
parts of it are more ancient and more modern. It stands in the midst
of a lake, and its defences were very strong. The castle was given by
William the Conqueror to the family of Crevecreur, but it reverted to
the crown about 1300, and has since passed through many bands, its
present proprietors being the Wykeham-Martins.
From Maidstone, travellers may continue their journey by the
S. E. R. branch to its junction with the main line at (9^2 M.)
Paddock Wood, running through a rich hop-district and passing
(II/2 M.) East Farleigh, (4i/ M.) Wateringbury, and (G1/2 M.) Yald-
2
ing; or they may take the L. C. D. line to (17 M.) Ashford (p. 21).
The intermediate stations on the latter line, which traverses one of
the prettiest parts of Kent, are 2^2 M. Bearsted (see above) 5 M.
:
;

Hollingboume the station for Leeds Castle (see above); 8 M.

,

Harrietsham; 10 M. Lenham, with an interesting E. E. and Perp.

church ; 13 M. Charing, with a ruined palace of the Archbishops
of Canterbury; 15i/ M. Hothfield.
2

4. From London to Hastings.

62 M. South Eastern Railway from Charing Cross, London Bridge,
and Cannon St. in 13/4-3 hrs. (fares 14a., iOs., 5s. 0>/2<Z. ; return, available
for 8 days, 21s., 15s. 6d., available from Sat. to Mon. 18s., 13s., 9s.).
There is also another and longer route (76 M. in 2V2-I hrs.) by the
London, Brighton, & South Coast Railway from Victoria and London Bridge
via Lewes and Polegate.
From London to (29y2 M.) Tunbridge, see R. 2a. The Ash-
ford and Folkestone trains here turn to the E., while the Hastings
train runs due south.
341/2 M. Tunbridge Wells. — Hotels. Calverley, near the S.E.
Railway Station, overlooking Calverley Park; Wellington, Mount
Ephraim, on Mount Ephraim, with view of the Common Royal Kentish, ;
facing the Common, and about equidistant from both railway-stations,
'pens', from 12«. ; Swan, Castle, commercial. —
In the vicinity: Camden,
at Pembury, 3 M. to the N. Hand & Sceptre, at Southborough (p. 38).
; —
Bishop's Down Spa, a hydropathic establishment. —
Numerous Boarding
Houses and Lodgings.
Railway Stations. S. E. R. Station, near the top of High St. ; L. B.
S. C. Station, Eridge Road, near the Pantiles.
Cabs. Per mile, 1st class (1-5 pers.) Is., 2nd class (1-4 pers.) 10d.,
3rd class (1-2 pers.) Sd.; each addit. 1/2 M. Gd., 5d., Ad.; per hour 3s., 2s.,
Is. (id. Between midnight and 6 n.m. fare and a half. Luggage free.
 ;

to Hastings. TUNBRIDGE WELLS. 4. Route. 37

Baths in the New Parade and at the Bishop's Down Spa; Open-Air
Swimming Baths, at the foot of Quarry Road.
Post Office in the Pantiles; numerous pillar letter-boxes.
Music. A band plays in the Pantiles every day at 11 a. m., and either
there or in some other part of the town in the afternoon and evening.
Tunbridge Wells, one of the most popular inland watering-
places in England, with 25,000 inhab. , is finely situated in a
hilly district on the borders of Kent and Sussex , and owes its
present favour rather to its pretty surroundings and invigorating
air than to its somewhat weak chalybeate springs, the want of
any appreciable quantity of free carbonic acid in which puts them
out of competition with Spa or Schwalbach. The springs were
discovered by Lord North about 1606, and Tunbridge soon became
a fashionable watering-place. Somewhat later it seems to have
been a favourite resort of the Puritans who have left traces of
,

their partiality in such names as Mount Ephraim and Mount Zion

and it is still specially affected by adherents of the Evangelical
school. The season is at its height in August and September.
The most prominent architectural feature of the town is the
Pantiles, or Parade, deriving its name from the earlier style of
pavement. Many of the houses in the Parade are very quaint and
picturesque and it is still, as in the days of Queen Anne and
;

the Georges, the favourite promenade of the visitors. It also con-

tains many of the best shops including several for the sale of
,

'Tunbridge Ware', or small articles in wood-mosaic. The Assembly

Booms and the Pump Room, with the chief mineral spring, are at
the lower end of the Pantiles (water 2d. per glass, 2s. per week).
Tunbridge Wells is adjoined on the E. by a breezy Common,
with an area of about 170 acres and Calverley Park is a pleasant
;

open-air resort within the town.

The Environs of Tunbridge Wells are undulating and beautifully
wooded, affording charming rambles in every direction. The soil dries
quickly after rain. The favourite short walks are to the Toad Rock,
on Ruithall Common, 1 M. to the W., and to the High Rocks (adm. 6d.),
ii/4 M. to the S. W., both good examples of the fantastic shapes assumed
by sandstone rocks in the process of unequal disintegration. A round of
about 3'/2 M. will include both.
One of the most popular of the longer excursions is that to Pens-
hurst Place (p. 13), b' M. to the N. W., which may be reached by railway
via Tunbridge (comp. p. 13). Walkers, however, will find the route via.
Bidborough very pleasant: and they may extend their excursion to Sever
(p. 13) and Edenbridge (p. 13), returning from the last by train. — About
6 M. to the S. E. lies Bayham Abbey, the seat of the Marquis Camden,
comprising a mansion in the Elizabethan style and the picturesque re-
mains of a Praemonstratensian Abbey of the 13th cent, (shown on Tues.
and Frid.). About 9 M. farther on is Lamberhurst ('Chequers Inn), described
by Cobbett in his 'Rural Rides' as 'one of the most beautiful villages that
man ever set his eyes upon'. In former times this district was the scene
of a busy manufacture of iron , which continued as long as the forest
furnished charcoal enough for smelting; almost the only trace of it is
now preserved in names such a3 Forge and Furnace Wood. The return
walk may be shortened by taking the train from Front (see below). —
A
very pleasant round may be made as follows. We
follow the road leading
S. from the Wells to f2 M.l Front. anA ~»it thence to the W. across
 ,

38 Route J. BATTLE. From London

'Eridge Park (Earl of Abergavenny: castle not shown), and past the "Eridge
Rocks (open to visitors mi Thurs.) at Eridge Green, to (2 /2 M.) Eridge
l

station. Or we may turn to the N. W. at Kridge Green and cross Broad-

water Wood, either to (2M.) Groombridge (see below), another railway station,
3 M. nearer Tunbridge Wells, or to the (2 M.) high Mocks (p. 37). — Ex-
cursion to Bodiam Castle, either from Etchingham or Robertsbridge, see
below.
The little town of Southborough, halfway between Tunbridge Wells
and Tunbridge, also possesses a chalybeate spring and is frequented by
those who wish quieter and somewhat cheaper quarters.
From Tunbridge Wells to Eastbourne, 30 M., railway in l'/j hr.
(fares 5s. I0d., is. 6d.,2s.6d.). — 3JI. Groombridge^ the junction of lines
to Three Bridges (p. 47), Lewes (p. 43), and Edenbridge (p. 37), Croydon,
and London. —
It M. Mayfield, a village with some quaint timbered houses
and an old 'Palace of "the Archbishops of Canterbury, now a nunnery
(adm. 3-4). This was a favourite residence of the archbishops from Dun-
stan (d. 988) to Cranmor (d. 1556) and dates mainly from about 1350, with
later additions. The Great Hall, now the Chapel, is nearly 70 ft. long.
— 22 /2 M. Hailsham, 4 M. to the W. of Hurstmoneeaux (p. 44); 25 M.
]

—
Polegate Junction, (p. 43). 30 M. Eastbourne, see p. 44.
Beyond Tunbridge Wells the train enters Sussex. 37 M. Frant;
the village (*Inn) lies on a hill 1 M. to the W., on the E. edge of
Eridge Park (see above). —
39 M. Wadhurst, with curious iron
tombstones in the church and churchyard 44 , /2 M. Ticehurst Road
;

3 M. to the S. W. of the village of Ticehurst ; 47t/ 2 M. Etchingham,

with a fine Dec. church. —49 V4 Robertsbridge (George), with the
scanty remains of a Cistercian abbey of the 12th cent., 1 M. to the
E. of the station.
Robertsbridge is the nearest station to Bodiam Castle, which by road
is about 4V= M. off, but by the following route only 2 l /z M. We follow
the cart-track passing the abbey, pass through a gate at the end of it,
and take the path along the right bank of the Rother. After about 1 M.
we reach the high-road, which we follow to the N. for some distance, and
then finish the walk by a path on the left (N.) bank of the stream.
'Bodiam Castle (adm. &d., on Frid. Is., by tickets obtained at the National
School ,near the gate) is a splendid example of a 14th cent, fortress
(ca. 1396), surrounded by a broad moat and possessing fine gateways,
machicholated parapets, a portcullis, etc. It is nearly square in ground-
plan, with circular towers at the corners and rectangular ones between
them. A good echo may be awakened on the N. side. Bodiam is a
favourite excursion from Hastings (see p. 42).

55Y2M. Battle (Star; George), an old town with 3500 inhab.,

famous for the abbey founded here by William the Conqueror(p. 39).
To reach the (Y2 U-) abbey we turn to the left on leaving the station
and then to the right soon skirting the wall enclosing the abbey
,

precincts. To the right lies the Parish Church of Battle, a build-

ing in the transition style between Norman and E. E., with Dec.
and Perp. additions (restored). It contains a few brasses and the line
tomb of Sir Anthony Browne (p. 39), with effigies of him and his
wife. In the churchyard, close to the E. end of the church, is the
grave of Isaac Ingall, a servant of one of the owners of the abbey,
stated on his tombstone to have died in 1798 at the age of 120. —
A little beyond the church we come in sight of the abbey gateway,
in the open space in front of which still remains the old ring used
in bull-baiting (50 yds. from the gate).
 to Hastings. BATTLE ABBEY. 4. Route. 39

*Battle Abbey, one of the most interesting and venerable histori-

cal monuments in England, was founded by William the Conqueror
in fulfilment of a vow made by him during the battle fought hero
with Harold, the English king, in 1066. Though generally known
as the 'Battle of Hastings', the battle is more accurately named
after the heights of Senlac on which William found the Saxons
,

entrenched behind a stockade on his march from Pevensey (p. 52),

and which lie a short distance to the S.E. of the town of Battle. The
abbey, indeed, stands on the very spot where Harold fell. The abbey
was entrusted to the care of the Benedictine Order, and the minster
was consecrated in 1095. At the Reformation (1538) it was presented
to Sir Anthony Browne, Henry VIII. 's Master of the Horse, who con-
verted the monastic buildings into a private dwelling-house and
added the banqueting hall. Since then it has passed through various
hands, and it now belongs to the Duke of Cleveland.
The abbey is open on Tues, from 12 to 4, to visitors provided with
tickets (free) obtained from Ticehurst, the bookseller, in the main street
near the gateway. Visitors are conducted through the ruins in parties
by a guide (who expects a small gratuity), and in the summer months
the crowds of excursionists from Hastings are so great that the tourist
may deem himself fortunate if he have fewer than 60 companions. The
part fitted up as a dwelling-house is not shown.
We enter the precincts of the abbey by a fine late-Decorated * Gale-
house (1338), described by Nathaniel Hawthorne ('English Note-Books'),
as 'the perfect reality of a Gothic battlement and gateway, just as
solid and massive as when it was first built, though hoary and venerable
with the many intervening centuries'. The longer (E.) wing was formerly
the almonry, while the W. wing is now fitted up as a porter's lodge. On
entering the gateway we find ourselves in a large grassy court, on the E.
(left) side of which stand the abbey-buildings, the portions visible to us
(named from left to right) being the Abbot's Lodge, the Porch, the Abbot's
Hall, and the Library (modern). We pass the front of the building and
make our way to the Terrace, at the S. end, where we await our
cicerone, and in the meantime enjoy a fine view of the battle-field, with
the heights of Telharn, whence the Normans first caught sight of their foe,
on the other side of the valley. This terrace marks the site of the old
Quest House, afterwards replaced by Sir Anthony Browne's Banqueting Hall,
itself pulled down about 1750. Two turrets at the W. end and some
traces of the windows and fireplaces are the only remains. From the
terrace we are conducted past the W. front of the abbey and round the N.
end of it to the old Cloisters, one fine arcade of which is still visible, forming
the E. external wall of the present edifice. Farther to the E., on some-
what higher ground than the rest of the abbey, lie the picturesque E. E.
ruins of the 'Refectory (wrongly described as the dormitory), with inter-
esting vaulted chambers below, described as the Day Room, the Monks'"
Parlour, and the Kitchen (perhaps the Calefactory or Scriptorium?). The
last part of the ruins shown on ordinary occasions is the Abbey Church
of St. Martin, which extended from the N. side of the Abbot's Lodge on
the W. to a point opposite the Parish Church (outside the wall) on the
E., a distance of fully 300 ft. The remains of this large edifice are,
however, of the most scanty nature, consisting merely of a few piers
and stones at the E. end; and nearly the whole area is now a garden,
containing some fine old yews and cedars. The guide points out the site
of the High Altar, supposed to be the spot on which the body of Harold
was found after the battle. — The Abbot's Hall, shown only in the absenec
of the family, contains relics of the Battle of Hastings, some good ta-
pestry, and portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Cleveland. — The so-
called 'Boll of Battle AbJifiX.'. .containing a list of the Norman nobles who
 ;;

40 llouk i. HASTINGS. From London

came over with the Conqueror, is a forgery composed at a time when a

Norman lineage had hecome fashionable.
On leaving the alibey-gateway the tourist will find vehicles ready to
take him to "Normanhurst, the handsome modern residence of Lord Bras-
sey, which lies 3 M. to the W. (fare there and back 2s. each; adm., on
Tues., Is., by ticket obtained at the Battle booksellers' or at Dorman's
Library, St. Leonards). The house is finely situated, commanding a most
extensive 'View. —
Those who prefer it will also generally find an op-
portunity of driving to Hastings instead of taking the train.
Beyond Battle the train descends towards the sea and soon reaches
the (61 Y2 M.) Warrior Square Station of St. Leonards (see below).
62 M. Hastings. — Railway Stations. Central or Hastings Station
of the S. E. R., at the top of Havelock Road, Hastings, also used by
the L. B. S. C. trains; Warrior /Square Station, the St. Leonards Station
of the S. E. E. ; Bopeep or West Marina Station, the L. B. S. C. R.
Station for St. Leonards, situated at the extreme W. end of the town,
nearly 1 M. from the Victoria Hotel. —The hotels send Flys to meet the
principal trains ; Cab to most of the hotels Is. Qd. (first-class) or is. (sec-
ond-class).
Hotels. ''Queen's, Carlisle Parade, facing the sea, l /t M. from the rail-
way station and the pier ; Marine, Albion (E. from 2s. fid.), on the Marine
Parade, farther to the E. ; Albany, Robertson Terrace, near the Queen's;
Palace, a new house, to theW. of the Pier, with lifts and electric light
Castle, Wellington Square, a little back from the sea; Royal Oak, Castle
St., commercial: Grosvenoe, White Rock, 'pens'. 8s. — At St. Leonards:
Rotal Victoria, Marina, a large establishment facing the sea, well spoken
of; Grand, Verulam Place, opposite the Pier; Eversfield, Alexandra,
Eversfield Place; Royal Saxon, Grand Parade, all these close to the sea;
Warrior House, Edinburgh, Gifford's ('pens', from 7s. 6d.) , three
private hotels in Warrior Square. —
Hydropathic Establishment, Old
London Road, Hastings. —
Furnished Apartments and Boarding Houses in all
parts of the town.
Restaurants. At the Queen's Hotel, see above; Ballard, 17 Castle St.;
Addison, 32 Rock Place; Buffet at the Hastings Station.
Omnibuses ply at frequent intervals from the Albert Memorial to the
Victoria Hotel, Bopeep, the Alexandra Park, the top of High St., Ore,
and Silverhill (fares Id., 2d., 3d.).
Cabs. First-class cabs for 1-5 pers. 3s. per hr., each addit. '/t '' 9d.
per mile Is. 6d., each addit. */2 M. JW. ; second-class cabs for 1-4 pers.
2s. Gd., 1 l l2d., Is., Gd.; no extra charge for luggage. Carriage drawn by
hand or by donkey or mule, Is. per hr. for 1 pers., each addit. >/4 hr. 3d.
Pleasure Boats. Rowing Boat, per hr. 2s. Gd., each addit. l fe hr. Is.
Sailing Boat, 5-10s. per hr. according to size. Excursion in Sailing Yachts,
Is. each person. — An Excursion Steamer also plies in summer to East-
bourne, Brighton, Dover, etc.
Baths. Hastings Baths, White Rock Place, with a very large swim-
ming basin, baths ls.-2s. Gd. ; Faulkner's Turkish Baths, adjacent, bath
2s. Gd., after 5 p.m. Is. 9d. ; Royal Baths, at St. Leonards, opposite the
Victoria Hotel ; Pelham Baths, Pelham Place, Hastings; Public Corporation
Baths, Bourne St.
Bathing Places for ladies and gentlemen at several points along the
beach, indicated by notice-boards. In rough weather the bathers are ad-
vised not to quit Iheir hold of the rope attached to the bathing-machines.
Hastings and St. Leonards are now virtually one town with
about 50,000 inhnb., in great repute as a bathing resort and winter
residence. St. Leonards, which forms the W. end of the double town,
is purely a wntering-place, consisting mainly of rows of well-built

lodging-houses, while the easternmost part of Hastings retains the

picturesque appearance of an old-fashioned fishing-town and seaport.
 to Hastings. HASTINGS. d. Route. 41

The sea-front of 3M., along -which runs a fine esplanade, is very

striking, and in many respects more than holds its own with any
other watering-place on the S. coast. The hest view of it, with the
hills behind and the ruins of the castle, is obtained from the end of
the Promenade Pier (adm. 2d.'), which runs out into the sea for
more than 900 ft. The pier may be said to indicate approximately
the border line between Hastings and St. Leonards, though nominally
the latter is not reached before the Archway, farther to the W.
Other suburbs are growing up on the hills at the back of the
town, the most important of which is Ore, a group of pleasant villas
on St. Helen's Down (stat., see p. 42).
The name of Hastings is indissolubly connected with the tattle by
which the government of England passed from the Saxons to the Nor-
mans, though it was fought at a spot 7 M. distant (p. 39). Hastings
was also one of the Cinque Ports (i. e. the 'five' great ports on the S. E.
coast; originally, Hastings, Dover, Sandwich, Komney, and Hythe), but
its harbour has now practically disappeared. Traces of an early settle-
ment here have been discovered submerged in the sea, which seems to
have made great encroachments on this part of the coast.
On the West Cliff, above Hastings, are the ruins of the old*Castle
(adm. 3d.), of the history of which little is known, though it claims
William the Conqueror as its founder or restorer. The ruins are,
to use Hawthorne's phrase, 'somewhat scanty and scraggling', but
the grounds in which they stand command a splendid view of the
town and sea, extending on the W. to Beachy Head. A tunnel is
being driven through the cliff from the sea-front, and a lift is to
be constructed for easy, access to the castle.
A little to the E. of the Castle the hill is partly undermined by
St. Clement's Caves (adm. 6d. illuminated on Mon. and Thurs.
;

after 2 p.m.), originally excavated for obtaining sand, and afterwards

a resort of smugglers. Near the entrance to the caves is St. Clement's
Church, one of the oldest in Hastings (Perp.; restored), whence we
may proceed to the left (N.) along High Street. At the upper end
of this street is the Roman Catholic chuTch of St. Mary Star of the Sea.
Close by is the old Church of All Saints, a Perp. edifice with a fine
W. window. "We may return hence to the beach through All Saints'
St. and visit the quaint fishing quarter of Old Hastings, with its boats
drawn up on the beach and its lofty black sheds for holding the nets.
The fish are sometimes sold on the beach here by 'Dutch Auction',
and there a covered Fish Market.
is also
The W.part of Hastings and St. Leonards contain little calling
for special mention. In the centre of the town is the Albert Mem-
orial a Gothic clock- tower erected in honour of the late Prince
,

Consort, and in Queen's Road are the Municipal Buildings. little A

to the W. , in Claremont, is a Public Institution, presented to the
town by Lord Brassey. —
At St. Leonards are two handsome modern
churches: Christchurch, London Road, in the E.E. style, and St.
Paul's, Church Road, in the Dec. style (elaborate interior, with
marble pillars). A new pier is now in course of construction here.
42 Route L HASTINGS.

Walks. The prettiest short walk from Hastings is that to Ecclesboitrtie

Glen, Fairlight Glen, and the Lovers' Sent (3'/2 M.). The best route is the
1

path crossing the East Hill (250 ft.; reached by steps from the Fish
Market; fine view of Hastings) and then descending to (1 M.) the prettily-
wooded Eccletbourne Glen. Crossing this little valley, we ascend again on
its K. side and follow the path along the top of the cliffs to (l'/2 M.) Fair-
light Glen, another little wooded valley. Here we turn to the left and
ascend along the W. side, rounding the head of the valley and passing
the 0/2 M.) 'Dripping Well', now almost dry, beyond which we continue
to follow the path leading along the side of the glen towards the S.E. This
soon brings us out again to the open cliff and ('/» M.) the ^Lovers' Seat, a
rocky ledge commanding a splendid view. Good walkers may vary the
return-route by turning landward from the Dripping Well, at the head
of Fairlight Glen, and ascending past a farm to P/4 M.) the high-road.
Here we may turn to the left (below, to the right, the Hall, Fairlight) and
make our way to 'North's Seaf, on the top of Fairlight Down (600 ft.),
occupying the circular site of Old Fairlight Mill, burned down some years
ago. The "View from this point is very extensive, including the coast
of France ; the tower of Fairlight Church is conspicuous to the E. We
now descend via Ore (p. 41) to Hastings. — Excursion-waggonettes ply at
intervals to the farm above Fairlight Glen, allowing 1 hr. for a visit to
the glen and the Lovers' Seat (return-fare Is. (id.).
Excursion Brakes ply daily in summer to (7 SI.) Battle and (9 M.)
Normanhnrst (see pp. 39, 40; fare for the round 4s. Gd.), and this drive may
lie extended to Ashburnharn House (not shown), the seatof the Earl of Ash-
burnham, containing some relics of Charles I. (shirt worn at his execution,
etc.). For some distance the road runs along the top of a ridge, com-
manding fine views. — Another lovely drive may be taken to (12 M.)
Bodiam Castle (p. 38), via the charming village of (0 M.) Sedlescombe, with
its interesting church, and back by Northiam (near which is an old timbered
house) and Brede. — Crowhurst, 6 M. to the N.W. and 3 M. from Battle,
is another good point for a walk or a drive; it possesses the remains of
an old manor-house and a gigantic churchyard-yew. —Other excursions
may be made (usually by railway) to Hurslmoiiceaux Castle (p. 52), Pevensey
(p. 52), Winchelsea (see below), Rye (see below), etc.
From Hastings to Rte and AsnposD, 27 M., South Eastern Railway
—
in 1 hr. (fares Gs. 7d., is. 5d., 2s. 2 l /id.). The district traversed by this
line has no great scenic beauty, but the towns of Winchelsea and Eye
will repay a visit. — IV2 M. Ore (p. 41).
9 M. Winchelsea (New Inn), an ancient but decayed town, formerly
attached to the Cinque I'ort of Hastings, possesses various memorials of
its former importance, the most immediately striking of which are the
width and regularity iits streets. The "Church of St Thomas (Becket), an
important early-Decorated structure (ca. 1300), of which the nave has long
since been destroyed, contains some good monuments. Alittle to the S.E.
of the church is the Friars, a modern mansion built with the materials
of ;m old Franciscan monastery, of which part of the chapel remains
(adm. on Mon.). Winchelsea was formerly a walled town, and three of
the old gates are still standing Pipe Well Gate, Strand Gate, and Land Gate.
—
:

Near the sea, about halfway between Winchelsea and Bye, is Camber
Castle, one of the coast-defences erected by Henry VIII. ; it commands a
good view of the picturesque , red-tiled town of Eye (see below). About
l 1 /? M. to the W. is Icklesham, with a Norman church.
11 M. Eye (George; Cinque Ports) is another decayed seaport, ruined,
like Winchelsea, by the retirement of the sea; it was also one of the
secondary Cinque Ports. Its harbour is still frequented by a few vessels.
The large Church, restored in 1883, is partly Norman and partly E. E., with
windows inserted at a later dale. The Ypres Tower, at the S.E. corner of the
town, now the police-station, was erected as a watch-tower in the 12th cent,
and is said to derive its name from William de Ypres, Earl of Kent. The
only town-gate remaining is the Land Gate, on the London road. Mermaid
Street is one of the most quaintly picturesque streets in England. After
the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes many French refugees settled in
 LEWES. 5. Route. 43
Rye, and have left their mark on the names of the present inhabitants.
At a later date it was a great resort of smugglers. —
An omnibus plies
from Bye to (10 M.) Tenterden (White Lion), with a fine church, the Perp.
tower of which has been held responsible for the Goodwin Sands (see p. 21).
Beyond Eye the train traverses Romney Marsh, an extensive level tract
with rich pastures. From (18 M.) Appledore a branch-line diverges on the
right to Lydd, Dungeness and New Romney (Ship), formerly one of the
,

Cinque Ports. There is a lighthouse on Dungeness Point. —

21 M. Ham Street.
27 M. Ash/ord, see p. 13.

5. From London to Eastbourne. Newhaven.

65 M. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, from Victoria
or London Bridge, in i 3 /i-3 l l* hrs. (fares 13s., 9s. Gd., 5s.; return, available
for 8 days, 19s., 14*.). — To Newhaven, 57 M., in l3/4 -2'/2 hrs. (fares lis. 3d.,
7s. Vdd., 4s. 8 l /id.; Sat. to Mon. return-tickets 14s., 9s. 6<*., 7s.). Cheap
day-tickets are issued in the season at greatly reduced fares.
From London to (37y2 M.) Hayward's Heath, see E. 6. O.ur line
here diverges to the left. — 44 M. Plumpton : 47 M. Cooksbridye.
50 M. Lewes (Star, with a fine staircase of carved oak
; White
Hart, opposite the County Hall Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), the county-
;

town of Sussex, with 11,200 inhab., is a quaint old place, situated

in the heart of the South Downs It is the junction of lines to Brighton
.

on the W. (see p. 52), Newhaven and Seaford (see below) on the S.,
and Barcombe, East Orinstead, Groombridge, etc., on the N.
The old Castle dates from the Korman period, and has a good gate-
way and a well-preserved keep containing a small museum (adm. 6d);
fine view from the top of the tower. The Priory of St. Pancras, a pic-
turesque ruin to the S. of the town (adm. id.), was founded by Gun-
drada, daughter of William the Conqueror. Adjacent is Souihover Church,
with a Norman chapel, containing the tombs of Gundrada and her hus-
band, William de Warrenne. The Fitzroy Memorial Library was designed
by Sir G. G. Scott. About 2% M. to the W. is Ml. Harry, where Henry III.
was defeated by Simon de Montfort in 1264.
From Lewes to Newhaven, 7M., railway in 15-20 min. The trains go
on to Newhaven Wharf, whence steam-packets ply twice daily to Dieppe
in 4-5 hrs. (through-tickets from London to Paris issued by this route).
Newhaven' (London it Paris Hotel; Bridge Inn), at the mouth of the Ouse,
possesses a modern fort and an interesting Norman church of the 12th
cent., with an apse. —
About 2 M. to the E. is Seaford (Seaford Bay
Hotel), frequented as a sea-bathing place.
The line now skirts Mount Cabum and Firle Beacon (820 ft.),
both of which command extensive views. 53 M. Olynde ; 57'/2 M.
Berwick. To the right is the 'Long Man of Wilmington', a figure,
240 ft. high, cut out on the side of the hill (comp. p. 44); it is
supposed to be of Celtic origin, perhaps the 'God of Journeying'
mentioned by Caesar, and has recently been restored.
61 M. Folegate Junction (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) the point ,

of divergence for lines to Hailsham and Tunbridge Wells (p. 36),

Hastings (p. 40), and Eastbourne.
65 M. Eastbourne. — Hotels. 'Queen's, Albion, "Anchor, Marine
Parade; 'Cavendish, -Burlington (R. & A. from 5s., D. 5s. 6d.), Grand
Parade; Grand, Cliff ('pens', in winter 10s. 6d.); these all first class, facing
the sea. — Sussex, Devonshire Park; Gildhedge, commercial, close to
the station; Southdown, 'pens'. 9s. per day. —
Numerous Boarding Houses
and Lodgings. —
Railway Refreshment Rooms.
44 Route 5. EASTBOURNE.
Gabs, for 1-5 pers., per mile, Bd. each addit. , /i M. ; per hr. 3s.,
Is.

or e;ich •/< hr. 2nd and 3rd class vehicles at lower rates.
addit. 9d. ;

— Omnibus between the town and the station 2d.

Bathing. Use of Bathing Machines (not compulsory before 8 a.m.) Qd.,
per doz. tickets 8*. —
Baths at Devonshire Park, with Swimming-basins, etc.
Eastbourne a watering - place which of late has been rapidly
,

growing in popularity, lies near the S. E. end of the South Downs,

and consists of the new town on the sea and the old town li/2 M.
inland. Pop. 30,000. The sea-front, about 2M. in length, is flanked
with a substantial Esplanade, at the E. end of which is the Great
Redoubt, a circular battery mounting 11 guns, while in the middle
is a martello tower (see p. 52) known as the Wish'. Near Splash '

Point, in the centre of the E. half of the Esplanade, an iron Pier

juts out into the sea for a distance of 1000ft., forming a favourite
resort of visitors. Another rallying - point is Devonshire Park, at
the W: end of the Esplanade with its gardens (bands) large
, ,

pavilion, and lawn-tennis courts. The Church of All Souls is a

handsome modern Byzantine structure and Old Eastbourne Church ;

is an interesting E.E. edifice, with a Norman chancel-arch. Opposite

is the Lamb Inn, below which is a vaulted crypt, also of the E. E.
period. A handsome new Town Hall, with a tower 130 ft. high,
was opened in Oct., 1886. Golf-links have been laid out on the
Downs behind the town.
About 3 M. to the S. "W. of Eastbourne the South Downs termin-
ate in *Beachy Head ('Beauchef'), a bold chalk headland, rising
to a height of 575 ft. above the sea (fine view). It may be reached
cither by road or by a footpath along the cliffs. The Beachy Head
or Belle Toute Lighthouse is 2 M. farther to the W.
Excursions. The immediate environs of Eastbourne afford few in-
teresting walks, and the favourite excursions are those made by carriage
or by rail, such as Eurstmonceaux (p. 52; from Hailsham or Pevensey) and
Pevensey Castle (p. 52). An excursion-brake also runs to (16 M.) Battle (p. 38;
return-fare 5s.)- Pedestrians may walk across the Downs to the N.W. to
(T M.) the scanty remains of Wilmington Priory , an offshoot of a Benedic-
tine abbey in Normandy. The 'Wilmington Giant,' (p. 43) is a little to
the S. This walk may be extended to Michelham Priory, an Augustine
foundation of the 13th cent. , 4 M. to the N. It was once fortified and
is now a farm-house, but there are many interesting remains of the old
buildings. Michelham is 3 M. from Berwick (p. 43) and 2'/2 M. from
Hailsham (p. 52).

6. From London to Brighton.

Railway (London Brighton and South Coast) from London Bridge
, ,

and Victoria stations (51 M.) in H/4-3 hrs. ; from Kensington, '/< hr. longer.
Fares 10s., 6s. (id., 4s. fyfed. Return-tickets available for 7 days are issued
at about a fare and a half, and cheap day return-tickets are often issued
at little more than single fares, sometimes including admission to the Pa-
vilion and Aquarium (p. 45). The 'Pullman Limited Express', leaving
London at 10 a.m. and 3.50 p.m., and Brighton at 1.20 and 5.45 p.m., con-
sists of Pullman day-cars and ordinary first-class carriages only (lighted
by electricity return-fare, for the same day, 12s. Sd.). The lines from
;

Victoria and Kensington unite with the line from London Bridge at Croydon.
Coach from London (Hotel Metropole) to Brighton (Old Ship) daily
 CROYDON. 6. Route. 45
in summer in 6 hrs. (fare 10«., inside 7*. 6d. box-seat 2«. 6d. extra).
;
The district traversed ia fertile and picturesque.
Leaving London Bridge, the train traverses, by means of a lofty
viaduct, 2Y2M. in length, the manufacturing and unattractive
district of Bermondaey. There was formerly an abbey here, where
Queen Katherine, widow of Henry V., died in 1437, and Queen
Elizabeth, widow of Edward IV., in 1492. The Ted brick building
at (3 M.) New Cross is the Royal Naval School, founded in
1843. The line next passes through a deep cutting in the 'London
clay', and amves at (4 M.) Brockley and (5y2 M.) Forest Hill,
prettily situated amid numerous pleasant country-residences. Close
to the railway is a German church. Beyond (6^4 M.) Sydenham we
see the Crystal Palace (see Baedeker's Handbook for London) on
our right, 200 ft. above us. 7 M. Penge; 7'/2 M. Anerley. To the
left stands the dark-red Freemasons' Asylum. Beyond Anerley, on
an eminence to the right, is the Surrey County Industrial School,
where upwards of 1000 poor children are brought up.
At (81/2 M.) Norwood Junction, the station for the pretty and
growing suburb of South Norwood, the line is joined by one of the
West End branches of the same company from Victoria. Just be-
fore joining the main line this branch traverses Tipper Norwood
(Queen's Hotel ; Crystal Palace), one of the chief residential suburbs
on the S. side of London (station at Oipsy Hill).
In a wooded vale about 1 M. to the S. of Upper Norwood lay Beulah
Spa, once much frequented, but now built over. Near it is Slrealham,
where Dr. Johnson often visited Mr. and Mrs. Thrale. — From Norwood
diverges a branch to Epsom and Dorking (comp. p. 62).
lO 1 ^ M. East Croydon, one of the five stations at Croydon
(*Greyhound; Crown; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a very ancient town
with 80,000 inhab., now practically forming a suburb of London.
The main line from Victoria here joins that from London Bridge.
The scenery of the surrounding district, which is thickly dotted
with country-houses, is very pleasing. The lower part of the
town contains the remains of an Archiepiscopal Palace, formerly
the country-residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury. The
extensive remains of the old building include the lofty dining-hall
and the chapel (16th cent.). The Church of St. John the Baptist,
originally built at the beginning of the 15th cent. , destroyed by
fire in 1867, and re-erected by Sir G. G. Scott, contains the tombs
of several archbishops. Near the middle of the town is Whitgift's
Hospital, an Elizabethan institution, connected with which there is
a large grammar-school.
Pedestrians will find that the following round of 10 to 12 M., with its
numerous views of characteristic English scenery, will amply repay the
fatigue (comp. Map, p. 12). Starting from Croydon, we proceed first to the
8. to (2'/2 M.) Sanderstead, a pretty village, with an interesting church and
park, which we reach by following the Brighton road (tramway) to the Red
Deer Inn and then turning to the left. [A slight detour to the left will take
us by picturesque footpaths to Crohamhtirst (pron. Croomhurst).] At
Sanderstead we turn to the left (E.) and walk to (2'/2 M.) Addington,
where the present country-house of the Archbishop of Canterbury is
46 Route 6\ REDHILL. From London

situated; the church, of which the interior is Norman, is interesting

to antiquarians. Archbp. Tait (d. 1883) is buried in the churchyard.
From Addington we proceed to the N. (left) to (l 1 /^ M.) West Wickham,
with an ancient church, 3 /t M. to the S. of which is the picturesque ivy-
clad country-seat of Wickham Court. From Wickham we may return to
Croydon direct, across the Addington Hills, in l'/4 hr. — A railway runs
from Croydon to Sanderstead, Warlingham, and Oxled (for East Grinstead
and Tunbridge Wells).
On the beyond (lO 1 /^ M.) South Croydon, is Purley House,
left,
where John HomeTooke wrote his 'Diversions of Purley'. On a
hill to the right are the large and handsome Warehousemen and
Clerks' Schools.
13 M. Purley, whence a branch- line diverges to Caterham,
4y 2 M. to the S.E. To the left is the Reedham Orphan Asylum,
founded by the Rev. Andrew Reed ; and to the right, farther on, is
the Surrey County Lunatic Asylum. The train now passes through a
long cutting, and penetrates the North Downs by a tunnel upwards
of 1 M. long. At the end of the tunnel lies (18 M.) Merstham, with
a church of the end of the 12th cent, (still interesting in spite of
'restoration'). Near the village is found the so-called 'firestone',
which, originally soft, becomes hard and fire-proof on exposure
to the air, and is accordingly of great value for building purposes.
On the right we obtain a view of Qatton Park, the seat of Lord
Oxenbridge; the Great Hall (adm. on week-days) is very fine.
FromMerstham to Chipstead, a pleasant walk of about 4 M.; to Reigate
(see below), through Gatton Park, another interesting route, 5M. The
rich carvings in the church at Gatton are of Belgian workmanship; the
beautiful altar and pulpit came from Nuremberg, and are ascribed to
Albert Diirer. Gatton is notorious for having been among the rottenest
of rotten boroughs, seven electors at one time sending two members to
parliament.
Just before reaching Iledhill we pass St. Anne's Asylum, ac-
commodating 400 children. —
20 3/4 M. Redhill (Warwick Arms;
Lakers; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), or Warwicktown, with about
10,000 inhab., the junction of the lines to Dover on the E. (see
p. 12), and Reigate, Dorking, Guildford, and Reading on the W.
(see p. 59). To the left, Y4M. distant, is the admirably organised
Agricultural School of the Philanthropic Society, a reformatory for
young criminals (about 300). This society was founded in 1788,
and is the parent of about 100 similar institutions in England. The
white sand of this district is much used in the manufacture o
porcelain.
Nuffield, a village with a picturesque church, 2V2M. to the left of
the railway, possesses several pits of fuller's earth. Not far off there are
distinct traces of a Roman military road leading into Kent, and Roman
coins have frequently been found here. — For other walks in this neigh-
bourhood, see p. 59 (Reigate).
21 '/2 M- Earlswood, beyond which, on the left, is the hand-
some and well - known Asylum for Idiots (600 inmates) also ,

founded by the Rev. Andrew Reed (see above; open to visitors on

Mon.). The train now crosses two tributaries of the small river
Mole, and beyond (2r>i/2 M.) Horley (Chequers) enters Sussex.
 to Brighton. WORTH. 6. Route. 47

29 M.Three Bridges (Refreshment Rooms), the junction of

lines to East Qrinstead (p. 43) and Tunbridge Wells Qp. 13) on the
E., and to Horsham and Ford Junction (see p. 53) on the W.
At Worth, a small village about IV2 M. from Three Bridges, there is
a diminutive 'Church, dating certainly from before the Conquest, but
spoiled by modern restoration. The beautiful 'Forest of Worth is a
favourite resort of painters. Fossil plants are found in great abundance
in a sandstone-quarry near the village. — Field Place, the birthplace of
Shelley (1792-1822), lies 2 M. to the N.W. of Horsham.
The line next traverses a portion of the very ancient Tilgate
Forest, crosses another branch of the Mole, and, threading a tunnel
3
/4 M. in length, reaches (572 M.) Balcombe (Inn), in a- picturesque
district containing much to interest the botanist and geologist.
Beyond Balcombe the train crosses the valley of the Ouse by means
of an imposing viaduct of 37 arches, 1400 ft. long and 100 ft. high
in the middle. To the left we obtain a view of Ardinglty College,
a school for 450 boys. — 37^2 M. Hayward's Heath (Station Hotel).
To the W. (2'/2 M.) is the pleasing little town of Vuckfield (King's
Head; Talbot), with Cuckfield Place, a mansion in a fine park, in the
vicinity. —
Branch-lines diverge from Hayward's Heath to Bors'ted Keynes
and Eatt Grin stead (p. 43) and to Lewes (Newh ven, Eastbourne, Hastings;
see p. 43). Horsted Keynes was the retirement and burial-place of Archbp.
Leighton (d. 1684), whose house, Broadhurst, may still be seen. —About
5 M. to the S.E. of Horsted Keynes (1 M. from She/field Park station) is
Fletching, in the church of which Edward Gibbon (d. 1794) is interred.
To the left lies the Sussex Lunatic Asylum. 4072 M. Keymer
Junction, for Lewes, Newhaven, Hastings, etc.; 4IV2 M. Burgess
Hill; 43'/2 M. Hassocks ('hassock', Anglo - Saxon, small wood).
Ditchling Beacon (856 ft.); 3 M. to the B. of Hassocks, is the highest
point in Sussex. On the top, which commands a wide view, are
remains of an ancient entrenchment, probably of Roman origin.
Hukstpiebpoint Park, 2'/s! M. to the W. of Hassocks, deserves a
visit for the sake of its noble old oaks. Wolstonbury Beacon, in the neigh-
bourhood, shows traces of a cruciform camp, probably British. The walk
across the Downs , past the Devil's Dyke (p. 51) to Brighton, a distance
,

of about 8 M. is very interesting.

, On the Downs graze about half a
million sheep, yielding the famous 'South Down mutton'.
The line passes through the range of the South Down Hills by
means of the Clayton Tunnel, which is 2240 yds. in length, and.
takes 2 min. to traverse. Beyond it is a short tunnel. On the
left we see a portion of Stanmer Park belonging to the Earl of
,

Chichester. The line next passes (4972 M.) Preston Park (PI. B, 2),
whence a branch-line diverges to West Brighton (Sussex Hotel) and
Worthing (p. 52), and it then descends to —
51 M. Brighton. — Railway Stations. The Central Station (PI. D,
E, 4) is at the N. end of Queen's Boad and is connected with the suburban
stations of Preston Park (PI. B, 2: see above), West Brighton (PI. A, 4;
p. 51), London Road (PI. E, 3; p. 52), Lewes Boad (PI. F, 3), and Kemp
Town (PI. G, 5; p. 50; train to the last in 10 min.).
Hotels. In Queen's Boad, leading S. from the station to the beach,
are several small second-class houses, suitable for single gentlemen
only (R. Is. Qd. to 2s., D. Is. 6<2. to 2s. 6d.). —
On the Esplanade, facing
the sea: to the W. of West Street, the prolongation of Queen's Boad,
Grand Hotel (PI. a; D. 6), near the W. Pier, 'pens'. 10s. Od., more in tho
 ;
:

48 Route 6. BRIGHTON. From London

season; Metropole (PI. b; D, 6), a huge new establishment; Bedford

(PI. c; C, 6); Norfolk (PI. d; C, 6); to. the E. of West Street, Hamblin's
(PI. e; D, E, 6); 'Old Ship (PI. f); Harrison's (PI. g; E, 6); Markwell's
Royal (PI. i); Queen's, a large and handsome building (PI. k); Claren-
don (PI. 1), 'pens', from 31. 3s. per week; Royal York (PI. E, 6); "Albion m;
(PI. n); Albemarle (PI. o); Haxell's (PI. r; E, 6); Steine Hotel New
(PI. s ; F, 6), at the chain pier, 'pens'. 31. 10s. per week; Royal Crescent
(PI. w; F,6), farther to the E., on the Marine Parade; Bristol (PI. z; G,6),
at Kemp Town; all these are of the first class: R. from 2s. 6d., B. 2s.
(id. to 3s., D. from 3s. 6d., A. Is. (id. to 2s. 6d. The hotels in the streets
to the N. of the Esplanade are cheaper, and some of them are quite
near the sea: New Ship (PI. t; E, 6), Ship Street; Gloucester (PI. u;
E, 5), North Steine; King's Arms, George St., R. & A. from 3s. 6<f. ; Fifth
Avenue Hotel, Manchester St., 'pens'. 9s. (id. Pavilion, Castle Sq.;
—
;

White Lion (PI. v; D, 5), Queen's Road, commercial. The numerous

Boarding Houses are usually comfortable, and, except during the height
of the season, not exorbitant (5s. 6<Z.-10s. Gd. per day).
Restaurants. Concert Hall (Melisoni), West Street, near the Espla-
nade; Sweeling^s Oyster & Luncheon Rooms, on the ground-floor of the Or-
leans Club, at the corner of West St. and King's Road. On the Esplanade
"Mutton's; Grand Hotel Restaurant ; MarkwelVs (see above); at the Albemarle
Hotel. In East Street, near the Esplanade: Sooth; The Bristol; Cafi
Royal, D. Ss. Continental, King's Road, opposite the W. Pier; Aquarium
Restaurant. —Bodega, 10 Ship St. —
Confectioners Maynard, West St. :

Reynard, North Street; Booth, East Street. —

Ices: La Cremerie, 18 East
Street; Mikado, Esplanade.
Baths. The Sea-bathing Stations are in front of the Esplanade ; the
beach is stony. Bathing-machines (with towels, etc.) for gentlemen (id.,
for ladies 9d. Swimmers may bathe from either of the pier-heads be-
fore 11 a.m., and gentlemen may bathe without a machine at the public
bathing-places to the E. and W. of the piers, indicated by notice-boards,
between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. The bathing-machines are lowered to the
sea by windlasses. —
"Turkish Baths, 59 West Street, bath 2s. 6d., after
6 p.m. Is. dd. (reserved for ladies on Tues. and Frid. forenoon) ; * Warm,
Vapour, Swimming, and other Baths at BrilVs, 77 and 78 East Street, near
the Esplanade; Hobden's, adjoining the Grand Hotel; Brunswick Baths, 2
Western Street. — Electric & Galvanic Baths, 11 York Place.
Theatres. Royal (PI. E, 6), New Road, for operas and dramas. Aqua-
rium Theatre. —
Brighton Alhambra, King's Road, near the Grand Hotel
(music hall).
Music. A band plays two or three times daily on the Piers, in the
Esplanade Gardens to the W., on the roof of the Aquarium (p. 50), and
in some of the 'steines'. —
Promenade and other Concerts are frequently
given in the grounds of the Pavilion (p. 49).
Post Office, Ship Street. —
The Principal Telegraph Of/ice is at the
Old Steine; sub- offices also at the Head Post Office, the New Pier, the
Railway Station, etc.
Cabs. First-class (1-4 pers.), per hr. 3s., per mile Is. ; to the hotels
on the Parade Is. Gd.-2s. Second-class (1-2 pers.), per hr. 2s., per mile
and a half Is. ; to the nearer hotels Is. and to the more distant Is. (id.
Pony-chaises, goat-carriages, etc., cheaper. —
Fare and a half between
12 and 2 a.m., double fare from 2 to 6 a.m. —
For each article of luggage
carried outside, when there are more than 2 passengers, 3d. Donkeys, —
%d. per hr. —Bicycles and Tricycles, Is. per hr. —
Porter to the nearer
hotels, 3d. per package.
Omnibuses run at frequent intervals through the principal thorough-
fares to Hove, Kemp Town, Preston, Lewes Road, Rottingdean, and Port-
slade. — Marine Electric Railway from the Aquarium to Kemp Town (2d.,
return 3d.).
Boats. Sailing-boats , 5-10s. per hr., according to size; Rowing-boats,
2s.Gd. per hr. Without boatmen, cheaper. Sailing parties are organirsd
by the boatmen in summer, each passenger paying Is. j n summeea —
Steamer makes excursions to Hastings, Eastbourne, the Isle of Wight etc.
 •Britnil
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wa#ierADebes"G«i>giEfl2b<,LeipsK-.
 to Brighton. BRIGHTON. 6. Route. 49
Sussex Courtly Cricket Ground, at Hove. — Hove Rink <b Lawn Tennis
Courts, Selborne Road, '/< M. from West Brighton Station (adm. 6d.). Laun
Tennis Courts also in Preston Road (PI. D, 3; 3d.) and in the Pavilion
grounds.
Brighton Races in Aug. and Nov., on the race-course on White Hawk
Down, to the E. of the town (p. 52). —
Good Hunting in the neighbourhood.
Brighton, with a population of 140,400 souls (including Hove),
and an annual influx of over 50, 000 tourists and visitors, lies on the
slope of a hill, in the middle of a broad and shallow bay, which is
terminated on the W. by the point called Selsea Bill, and on the B.
by Beachy Head. Its original name was Brighthelmston from
,

Brighthelm, an Anglo-Saxon bishop, who is reputed to have founded

it in the 10th century, and tun, a town. That the Romans had a
settlement here is proved by the numerous coins and other anti-
quities of the Roman period which have been found from time to
time. The lord of the soil in the 11th cent, was the powerful Earl
Godwin, father of the last Anglo-Saxon king, Harold, who lost his
kingdom and his life at the battle of Hastings (14th Oct., 1066).
The chief attractions of the place are its clear and bracing air,
the fine expanse of sea bordered by white chalk cliffs, its bath-
ing facilities, and its gay crowds of visitors. Thackeray highly ap-
preciated these advantages and has sung the praises of 'Dr. Bright-
1

on' in The Newcomes

'
.

Brighton, now by far the most frequented seaside resort in the

British Islands, was a poor fishing-village down to 1753. After
that year, owing to the commendations of Dr. Russell, a fashionable
physician who had experienced the beneficial effects of sea-bathing
here, the place began to grow in importance. In 1782 George IV.,
then Prince of Wales, first took up his residence at Brighton, and

the result of his royal patronage was the speedy advance of the town
to its present imposing dimensions. The Prince laid out 250,000i.
on the construction of the Royal Pavilion (PI. E,5), an extensive
and tasteless building in the Oriental style [Nash, architect), where
he afterwards spen t several months of each year. William IV. and
Queen Victoria, however, rarely occupied it, chiefly because the
view of the sea is nearly excluded by houses. It now belongs to the
town. The royal stables and riding-school with their immense dome
(80ft. in diameter), to the N. W. of the Pavilion, have been convert-
ed into a ball and concert room (organ-recital on the 1st Mon. of
each month). The handsome and well-shaded grounds are open to
the public adm. to the Pavilion Gd.
;

Passing through the Entrance Hall, which contains busts of eminent

citizens and natives of Brighton, we enter a long Corridor, decorated
in the Chinese manner. From this gallery all the rooms of the ground-
floor may be entered. The Banqueting and Music Rooms at opposite
,

extremities of the corridor, are the most handsomely painted and adorned.
The principal chandeliers cost upwards of 2000!. each. The rooms are
used for lectures, concerts, balls, scientific assemblies, and other public
gatherings. The apartments in the upper story contain various collec-
tions of no great interest.
The building on the N.W. side of the grounds, near the Dome,
BAEDEKEit's Great Britain O.nA W.At*
£
 ;

50 Route a. BRIGHTON. From London

contains the Town Museum (entrance from Church Street), which

boasts of a well-arranged geological and zoological collection, a Free
Library, and a Picture Gallery (adm. daily from 10 a.m.; free).
The Picture Gallery contains a few pictures belonging to the munici-
pality, but is chiefly devoted to loan-collections which are frequently
,

changed. Among the permanent works are Jan Victor (pupil of Rem-
:

brandt), The marriage -contract; West, Rejection of Christ; Downard,

Reading the news, and The naughty child; portraits of George IV., Wil-
liam IV., and Queen Adelaide, by Lawrence; and works by West, Arrni-
tage, and Leatham. The collection of English Porcelain, lent by Mr. Willet,
is one of the most complete in England.
Contiguous to the Pavilion on the E. is the Old Steine, a square
with a grass plot and fountains, named from a reef (Ger. Stein,
I'lem. Steen, a stone or rock), which jutted into the sea here. On
the N. side is a bronze Statue of George IV., by Chantrey.
The Esplanade, handsome road about 4M.
or sea-front, forms a
in length, in or near which most of the visitors reside. The W.
part is called the King's Road (PI. C, D,E, 6). The E. paTt, called
the Marine Parade (PI. F, G, 6), and extending from the Old Steine
to Kemp Town, is protected by a sea-wall constructed at a cost of
100,000Z. Few occupations are more entertaining than to walk or
drive here, watching the motley crowds on the beach and piers.
The sunsets in spring and autumn are often very gorgeous. Large
vessels are often seen sailing past, but none of them touch here,
there being insufficient depth of water.
The most popular promenade is the *New, or West Pier (PI. D, 6
pier-toll 2d.), completed in 1866, 1150 ft. in length, at the end. of
which a band performs morning and evening. On a fine day the scene
here is of a most lively and attractive character. The old * Chain
Pier (PI. F, 6; adm. 1d.~), constructed in 1823, and extending
from the Marine Parade into the sea to a distance of 1130 ft., was
formerly the chief resort of visitors, but is now almost entirely
supplanted by the W. Pier. The end of the Chain Pier commands
a fine view of the sea, the handsome buildings of the town , the
long rows of bathing-machines and the New Pier.
,

The finest rows of houses, such as Queen's Mansions, Bruns-

ivick Square, and Adelaide Crescent (PI. B, C,6), are chiefly situated
on the West Cliff. On the East Cliff lies Kemp Town (PI. H, 6),
which also contains many handsome dwellings. The Madeira Road,
ot the foot of this cliff, is a favourite resort of invalids (electric
railway, see p. 48).
The extensive and admirably-appointed *Aquabium (PL E, 6),
near the Chain Pier (adm. Is. ;after 7 p. m. 6d), is well worthy
of a visit. Externally it makes no great show being built on a
,

site below the level of the road. The entrance is surmounted by

a low clock-tower.
The furf.y large tanks in the interior contain great numbers of fish,
including specimens of the octopus or devil-fish, dolphins, porpni?e>«, sharks,
etc. There are also turtle, seal, and sea-lion ponds, alligators, and stuffed
specimens of fish iind reptiles. Attached to the aquarium are a good
 to Brighton. BRIGHTON. 6. Route. 51

restaurant, a cafe, an orchestra, smoking and billiard rooms, reading-

rooms supplied with newspapers and periodicals, a skating-rink, and a
theatre. The flat roof is laid out with flower-beds and used as a prome-
nade (music, see p. 43).
The old parish-church of St. Nicholas (PI. D, 5), founded in the
14th cent., and occupying an elevated site in the centre of the
town, contains a very ancient circular Font, ornamented with
curious carving. In the graveyard, to the S. of the chancel, is the
tomb of Nicholas Tettersell , captain of the vessel that carried
Charles II. to France after the battle of Worcester. The present
parish - church of Brighton is St. Peter's (PI. E, 4), a handsome
modern Gothic edifice in an open space to the N. of the Grand
Parade. —Several new churches (St. Paul's, "West Street; St.
Martin's, Lewes Road, with a fine pulpit, etc.,) have been built by
the Rev. A. D. Wagner, Vicar of St. Paul's. Trinity Chapel, of
which the Rev. Fred. W. Robertson (d. 1853) was incumbent, is
in Ship St. [Robertson is buried in' the Extra-Mural Cemetery (PI.
G, 3) a few paces from Macaulay's victim, 'Satan' Montgomery
—
,

(d. 1855).] St. Bartholomew's is remarkable for its height.

The *Dyke Road Museum (PI. C, 3) contains one of the finest col-
lections of birds in England. —
Brighton is noted for its colleges
and high-class schools for girls and boys.
Brighton is unfortunately so ill-provided with shade that this
'London-by-the-Sea' has been cynically described as made up of
'wind, glare, and fashion'. Numerous young trees have been
planted in different parts of the town to remedy this defect.
Shelter from the sun may, however, be obtained in the grounds
of the Pavilion (p. 49), or in the Queen's Park (PI. F, 5), situated
in a small depression farther to the E. Adjacent to the Queen's
Park is the so-called German Spa, where Dr. Struve's mineral
waters are retailed.
Excursions. Pleasant walks do not abound, either in Brighton or its
environs. The most attractive are to the W. , through the suburb of Hove
or West Brighton (PL B, 5, 6), with its handsome town-hall in red brick
and terracotta, and to the N. to Preston (PI. C, D, 2, 3), a quiet and pic-
turesquely-situated little place, with an E.E. church and a pretty public
park and cricket-ground. A little to the N. rises Hollingsbury Hill,
with remains of a Roman entrenchment, where Roman coins have fre-
quently been discovered. Beyond it, and about 6 M. from Brighton, is
the Devil's Dyke, a kind of natural amphitheatre, looking like a huge
entrenchment (railway from the central station in 20 min.; also excur-
sion-cars, there and back Is. fid.) The route ascends West Street to the
White Lion Hotel, and then turns to the left, past the church; it after-
wards leads direct towards the N.W., without deflection either to the
right or left. At the top of the Dyke, where there are traces of a
Roman camp, we obtain one of the most diversified views in the whole
county, seeing immediately below us the rich expanse of the 'Wealden'
formation , once a primaeval forest called Coil Andred by the Britons,
Anderida by the Romans, and Andredswald by the Saxons. To the S. is
the far-reaching sea, to the N. the chain of the North Down Hills, to th
W. numerous villages, and to the E. busy Brighton itself. At the sum
mit is Thacker's Dyke Hotel. At the foot of the Dyke is the village o
Poynings, with an interesting old church.
52 Route 6. BRIGHTON.
To the E. we may drive via Rollingdean (excursion-cars there and
back is.), which contains mineral springs, to (7Vz M.) Newhaven (p. 43).
The cliffs, which the road skirts, are rich in fossil formations.—To the
N.E. , Race Course (view).
at a high level, is the
Fbom Brighton to Hastings, 33 M., railway in V-ji-1 hrs. (fares 6s.
8d., is. 8cl., 2s. 10d.). Soon after leaving the station the train crosses the
London road by a fine curved viaduct of 27 arches, 73 ft. high and 400 yds.
long. Afterwards it passes through a tunnel and several deep cuttings in
the chalk hills. To the right, beyond (1 M.) London Road station, are
the Brighton Cavalry Barracks (PI. F, 2); to the left, farther on, Stanmer
Park, seat of the Earl of Chichester. Near (4 M.) Falmer another long
tunnel is passed through. At (8 M.) Lewes (p. 43) we join the line from
London to Eastbourne (see p. 43). The line now skirts Mt. Cdbum and
Firle Beacon (820 ft.) and passes Glynde and Berwick. On the hills to the
right, beyond Berwick, is seen the 'Wilmington Giant' (p. 44). 20 If.
Polegale is the junction for Hailsham and Tuubridge Wells to the N.
(comp. p. 43) and Eastbourne (see p. 43) to the S.
Close to (23 M.) Pevensey & Wesfham (Royal Oak Inn) is Weslham
Church, a fine building, partly Norman. 'Pevensey Castle consists of
two distinct parts, an outer fortress of Roman origin and an inner late-
Norman one of the 12th century. The Roman wall, still about 20 ft.
high at places, encloses a space of about 10 acres and is strengthened
at intervals by round towers ; this was the Roman Anderida. The Norman
castle occupies the S. E. corner of this enclosure. Pevensey is the reputed
landing-place of William the Conqueror. Pevensey Church, to the E. of
the Castle, is Early English. —
About 4 ] /3 If. to the N. of Pevensey is
Hurstmonceaux Castle, an interesting and beautiful example of a fortified
mansion of the 15th cent., constructed of brick (now roofless). Hurst-
monceaux Church, 1 /t M. to the W., is also interesting for its monuments.
Archdeacon Hare (d. 1855) is buried beneath the great yew in the churchyard.
This part of the coast of Sussex is lined with Martello Towers, small forts,
each mounting one gun and intended to be garrisoned by about 10 men;
they were erected at the time of the last war with France, and their
name is said to be derived from a small fort of the same kind in Martella
Bay, Corsica, which offered an obstinate resistance to the British forces.
— 29 If. Bexhill (Devonshire Hotel), a small watering-place; 32 M. St.
Leonards (West Marina station). —
33 M. Hastings, see p. 40.

7. From Brighton to Chichester and Portsmouth.

44 II. Brighton and Sodtii Coast Railwat, in l 3/^ /* hrs. (fares
1
8s.
10J., 6s., 3s. 8y2(l). —
View of the English Channel on the left, and of a
chain of hills on the right. On both sides are pleasant meadow-land
and trees, with numerous windmills.
The station is (1 V2 M.) West Brighton, just before which
first
our line joined by the branch from Preston Park (p. 47), while
is
beyond diverges the branch to the Devil's Dyke (p. 51). 3M. Port-
slade ; 4y4 M. Southwick. —
6 M. Shoreham (Royal George Bucking- ;

ham Arms), which carries on a considerable trade with the opposite

coast of France. The antiquarian will be repaid by a visit to the
churches of Old and New Shoreham, in the Norman and Early
English styles, dating from the time of the Crusades. There is a
popular resort here called the Swiss Gardens. A branch-line to
Horsham (p. 52) diverges here. Beyond Shoreham the train crosses
the wide estuary of the Adur, which is also crossed by a fine suspen-
sion-bridge (left). —
At (8 M.) Lancing is a large public school,
the buildings of which are seen on a hill to the right..
 y ;

CHICHESTER. 7. Route. 53

IO72 M. Worthing (Marine ; Steyne Hotel ; *Boyal Sea House

West Worthing ; Albion) a favourite watering-place (13,000 in-
,

hab.), with a fine sandy beach and a long iron pier, frequented by
those who like quieter quarters than Brighton. At West Worthing
(stat.) aTe large baths and tennis-courts. Excursions may be made
to the N. to the interesting churches of (1 M.) Broadwater and (2 M.)
Sompting, and to the N.W. to (iy2 M.) West Tarring, with fig-
gardens and an E.E. church. Cisbury Hill, 2y2 M. distant, is the
site of a British or Roman encampment. Chanctonbury Ring (814 ft),
5 M. to the N., and Highdown Hill, 4^/2 M. to the N.W., command
extensive and beautiful views. On the summit of the latter is the
tomb of a miller (d. 1793), buried here at his own request.
13 M. Ooring and (1572 M.) Angmering. Near the latter is
a handsome park, belonging to the Duke of Norfolk.
19^2 M. Ford Junction, with a branch-line to the S.E. to (2 M.)
Littlehampton (Norfolk ; Terminus Beach), a small watering-place
;

at the mouth of the Arun. Another branch runs N. to (2y 2 M.)

Arundel, Amberley (p. 56), and (21 2 M.) Horsham (p. 47).
The small town of Arundel (Norfolk Arms Bridge) is situated on the
;

river Aran, 2</i M. to the N. of Ford Junction. In the vicinity is

'Arundel Castle, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Norfolk, which was
founded as early as the 10th century. In 1102 it was besieged by Henry I.,
and afterwards by Stephen, and it was again attacked in 1644 by the
Parliamentary troops and left in ruins. The portion of the building now
used as a residence was begun in 1791. The ancient "Keep, dating from
the 12th cent., and the Dairy (to the E.) are shown on Mon. & Frid. (12-4)
by tickets obtained gratis at the Norfolk Arms. Entrance by the principal
gateway at the upper end of the town ; the top commands a fine pro-
spect of the surrounding country. The tower is tenanted by a colony of
owls (bubo maximus), originally brought from America. The 'Park is
open to the public. — The "Parish Church, erected in 1380 with the
,

adjoining chapel of a Benedictine Abbey which once stood here, is worthy

of notice. The Fitz-Alan Chapel, or chancel (no admission), contains old
monuments of the Arundel family. The Park affords' several charming
walks. The fine modern Roman Catholic Church was built by the Duke
of Norfolk at a cost of 103,000!. The Arun is noted for its mullet, a dish
of which may be obtained at the hotel.
22 M. Barnham, the junction for a short line to (3'/2 M.) Bognor
(Norfolk; Pier; Bedford; Victoria Park), a quiet bathing-place, with
a pier and esplanade. — 26*/g M. Drayton, the nearest station for
(3»/4 M.) Goodwood (p. 56).
The train now traverses a level and fertile tract of country, and
reaches (in I-IV4 hr. from Brighton) —
2872 M. Chichester (^Dolphin, Anchor, Eagle, all in West St.,
facing the cathedral ; omn. from the station) , a town of great an-
tiquity (8092 inhab.), the Regnum of the Romans, the Cissa's
Ceaster of the Saxons (whence the present name). It became the
seat of a bishop after the Norman Conquest, when William trans-
ferred the ancient see of Selsey (founded in the 7th cent.) to this
place. The diocese of Chichester is conterminous with the county
of Sussex, the only instance of such identity in England. As at
Chester, the characteristic square ground-plan of the Romans is
 ;;

54 Route 7. CHICHESTER. From Brighton

marked by the four principal streets, which are named after the
points of the compass and meet each other at right angles in the
centre of the town. At the point of intersection is the handsome
* Market Cross, erected in
1500, hut much damaged by the Puritans.
The line of the town-walls (date unknown) can still be traced
throughout almost their whole circuit and on the N. and E. sides
:

of the town portions of them have been converted into public

promenades.
From the station we approach the centre of the town through
South Street. On the left we soon reach the Canon Qate (15th cent),
leading to the cathedral -precincts. Immediately to the right,
1

within the archway, is the small Vicars' Close, with its fine Hall
of the 14th cent., now used by the Chichester Theological College.
Going straight past the Vicars' Close, we reach St. Richard's
Walk, named alter Bishop Richard de la Wych (p. 55) a nar- ,

row passage on the right leading to the Cloisters (Perp. 16th ;

cent.), which it reaches opposite the S. door of the cathedral. It is

better, however, to pass through the cloisters (good view of the Ca-
thedral), turn to the left, and enter the Cathedral by the E. E.
Galilee Porch on the W.
The *Cathedral originally begun about 1085 completed in
, ,

1108, and burned down in 1114, is in its present form substan-

tially a transitional Norman building of the 12th cent., with some
pointed details introduced after a second fire in 1186. The Lady
Chapel dates from 1288-1304; the spire (277 ft.), erected in the
15th cent., collapsed in 1861 and was rebuilt in 1861-66. The de-
tached Bell Tower, a feature peculiar to Chichester among English
cathedrals, is, despite its weather-worn appearance, one of the most
recent parts of the building, dating from the 15th century. The
absence of the N. W. tower, which fell in 1634, gives a somewhat
lop-sided appearance to the W. facade. The whole edifice has
been restored since 1848. The total length of the church is 410 ft.
nave 172 ft. width of nave and aisles 91 ft. ; across transepts
;

131 ft. height of nave 62 ft.

;
, of choir 65 ft. Comp. 'Architec-
tural History of Chichester Cathedral', by JR. Willis.
The Interior (services at 10 and 4; adm. to choir Gd.), which was
sadly defaced by the iconoclasts in 1643, shows in many respects a strong
resemblance to the early French Gothic style particularly in the super-
,

structure of the choir, the arcades and detached shafts of the presbytery,
and the double aisles of the nave. The outer aisles (E. E.), a peculiarity
which Chichester shares with Manchester alone among English cathedrals,
consisted originally of a series of chapels, afterwards thrown into one. The
Nave proper, with its eight bays, is somewhat narrow in proportion to its
height. The stained glass is all modern. Among the most interesting
monuments are effigies of an Earl and Countess of Arnndel (14th cent.
restored) and of a lady (13th cent.V), a "Tablet to Collins the poet, a native
of Chichester (1719-59), by Flaxman, and a statue of Huskisson, all in
the N. aisle; and the monuments of Agnes Cromwell and Jane Smith,
in the S. aisle, both by Flaxman. Near the N. porch ia an ancient wooden
Chest, brought from Selscy Cathedral (see p. 53). The only old bras3 now
left hangs against one of the buttresses in the S. aisle. The modern
 to Portsmouth. CHICHESTER. 7. Route. 55
Pulpit is a memorial of Dean Hook (d. 1875), author of 'Lives of the Arch
bishops of Canterbury'. — The N. Transept, formerly used as a parish
church, contains a worthless series of portraits of the bishops, from St.
Wilfrid (680) to Sherburne (1508-36), painted in the 16th cent, by an Italian
named Bernardi. This transept is adjoined by the Chapel of the Four
Virgins (entered from the N. aisle of the choir), now used as the
Cathedral Library, and containing some interesting relics. Among the
manuscripts is a copy of the prayer-book of Hermann, Archbishop of
Cologne, with the autograph of the martyr Cranmer, Archbishop of Can-
terbury. The S. Transept possesses a fine Dec. window, filled with
execrable Munich glass, and two other paintings by Bernardi (see above),
representing the foundation of the see at Selsey (680) and the confirmation,
by Henry VIII., of Bishop Sherburne's gifts to the Cathedral. Below is
the tomb of Bishop Moleyns (1446-50).
The Choir, elevated by four steps above the nave, extends three
bays eastward from the tower. The carving of the Choir Stalls and mi-
sereres is very fine. The modern Reredos, with its carved group of the
Ascension, has been left unfinished on the score of its excessive bulk.
The mosaic pavement in front of the altar deserves attention. The choir
is divided from its aisles by beautiful hammered iron screens in imitation
of ancient work. In the S. aisle are two very interesting and well - pre-
served "Saxon Sculptures, brought from Selsey, representing Christ at the
house of Lazarus and the Raising of Lazarus (the latter inaccurately
pieced together) , with hollows left by the abstraction of the jewelled
eyes. This aisle also contains the Cenotaph of Bean Hook (see above), and the
tomb of Bishop Sherburne (d. 1536). — Behind the reredos, where formerly
stood the famous shrine of St. Richard (da la Wych; 1245-53), is the
Presbytery, with its interesting triforium, showing the transition to the
pointed style. The detached shafts of the piers are placed much farther
from the central columns than is usual in other instances when this con-
struction is adopted (comp. ante). — The long and narrow Lady Chapel,
forming the E. termination of the cathedral was restored in 1876. On
,

the vaulting are some remains of the paintings with which the entire
roof of the cathedral was adorned by Bernardi (see above).
In the Cloisters (p. 54) is a tablet to Wm. Chillingworth, the Pro-
testant controversialist, who died at Chichester in 1643. — A fine view
may be obtained from the top of the Bell Tower (open 11-12 and 2-4), but
an order from the Dean is necessary for an ascent of the Central Tower.
The spire is said to be the only cathedral spire in England that is visible
from the sea.
The Episcopal Palace, adjoining the cathedral on the S. W., con-
tains a fine old mediaeval kitchen, now used as a washhouse. The private
chapel of the bishops has been restored.
We now return to the Market Cross, proceed down North Street,
and take the first turning to the right. This brings us to a small
archway leading to *St. Mary's Hospital, originally founded in the
12th cent, as a nunnery, and afterwards refounded as an asylum for
old women. It consists of a large hall with a small chapel (13th
,

cent.) at its E. end. The interesting old windows of the latter

were 'restored' in 1878-86. The misereres here resemble those
in the cathedral. —
Not far from this point, at the N.E. angle
of the town is the Priory Cricket Oround (adm. 6e£.)
, con- ,

taining part of the church of an old Franciscan Monastery, now

used as the Guildhall. —
The restored Church of St. Olave, in
North Street, probably the oldest in Chichester, stands on the
foundations of a Roman building. —
The Museum of the Philo-
sophical Society (open 11-2; adm. 3d.), in South Street, contains
some Roman antiquities and natural history specimens.
56 Route 7. PORTSMOUTH. From Brighton

Excursions fkom Chiohestek. Bosham, a fishing-village, 4 M. to the

W., on a bay of the same name, possesses an interesting church, partly
Saxon, which figures in the Bayeux Tapestry and contains the tomb of
a daughter of King Canute. Harold is said to have here set sail for his
ill-omened visit to Normandy. —
To the S. the country is flat and uninter-
esting On the N. it is more attractive, and affords a number of pleasant
walks, particularly that to (3'/2 M.) Goodwood, the seat of the Duke of
Richmond, with its fine collection of paintings, including specimens of
Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Rubens, Kneller, Reynolds, Lely, Lawrence, and
Gainsborough (open to visitors in the absence of the family). The "Park,
which is open to the public, contains herds of deer and some fine cedars.
A Roman relief of Neptune and Minerva, found at Chichester, is preserved
in a kind of temple here. The picturesque "Race Course, close at hand,
is crowded every July with the members of the sporting world. The
stables, kennels, pheasantry, and tennis-court also deserve notice. —
Boxgove, l'/z M- from Goodwood, contains an Early English "Priori/
Church, with richly decorated and painted vaulting. The curious external
elevation of the presbytery should be noticed. —
A pleasant walk may
also be taken to Big nor, lU'/2 M. to the N.E. (4 M. from Amberley, p. 53),
with the remains of a 'Roman Villa (adm. Is.)
Beyond Chichester the train passes (31!/2 M.) Bo sham (1 M. to
the N. of the -village, see above), and enters the county of Hampshire,
or Hants. Then (3572 M.) Emsworth. The Isle of Wight is -visible
in the distance (left). From (37^2 M.) Havant (Bear; Albany), a
small market-town, where we join the L. S. W. direct line from
London (R. 9), a short branch-line diverges to Hayling Island, with
the favourite bathing-resorts of North and South Hayling (Royal
Hotel). Beyond Havant the hills to the right are crowned with the
forts protecting Portsmouth on the land-side. The train crosses a
narrow arm of the sea and enters the island of Portsea. — 43'/2 M.
Fraiton Junction (for Southsea, p. 58); 44 M. Portsmouth Town;
Ab M. Portsmouth Harbour, the starting-place of the Isle of Wight
steamers (see p. 67).
Portsmouth. —
Hotels. George (PI. a; C, 4), 29 High St.; Stak &
Garter (PI. b; C, 4), adjoining the floating bridge; Bedford. Sussex
(PI. c; E, 3), close to the Town Station, unpretending, R. & A. 4s.; Tot-
terdell's (PI. d; C, 3), St. George's Sq., Portsea; Kerpel's Head (PI.
e; C, 3), on the Hard, Portsea. —
At Southsea Cawte's (PI. f; D, 5) ad-
: ,

joining the Esplanade Pier, well spoken of; Queen's, Grosvenor (PI. i;
D, 5), Pier (PI. k; D, 5), fronting the Common and the sea; Beach Man-
sions (PI. g; F, 6), opposite the Parade Pier, East Southsea; Portland.
— Refreshment Rooms at the Town and Harbour stations.
Cabs. From the station to any part of Portsmouth proper and Portsea,
to the Dockyard and the Harbour, and to Southsea Pier Is.; to other parts
of Southsea Is. Gd., to East Southsea and Southsea Castle 2s.
Tramway-Cars ply at frequent intervals from Portsea to Southsea, from
Southsea to North End, Landport (passing the railway - station), from
Portsmouth Point to North End, etc. —
Omnibuses from the Railway Station
to the Dockyard (id.) and from King*s Road to Bavelock Park.
Steamers to Southampton (several times a day) , Ryde (about every hr.),
Cowes, etc. — Steam Floating Bridge to Oosport from Portsmouth Point
every 10 min. (id.), and Steam Launches from Portsea Pier to Gosport
every 5 min. 0-lzd.),
Theatre Royal (PI. D, 3), Commercial Road, near the railway station.
— Military Music in summer on Governor's Green. Guard-mouoting on
the Grand Parade (PI. C, 5) at 11 a.m.
Baths in Park Road (PI. D, 3), Landport.
TJ. S. Consular Agent, Thos. McC'heane, Esq., CO St. Thomas St.
CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL
-MJonumcniis.ctc.

1. Jane. ,9mitli
1. JLxfTiPuCrvjmfvpn

3. PieJpit

4-. Fnkriowti J.ady

5. Jriirri <€ Jttultr Arundel

6. Collins

7. WTHttskisson
8. MisImpMolryns
9. ./ban ^»«*
10. Bishop .Vlifv/jor/te
.11. Ancient SeZvey ScuJpticres

lilee)
 to Portsmouth. PORTSMOUTH. 7. Route. 57
Chief Attractions. After visiting St. Thomas's Church we may cross
by the floating bridge to Gosport, visit Haslar Hospital and the Victualling
Yard, and cross by one ot the steam-launches to Portsea. Here the
Dockyard will occupy us for l ! /2 hr., after which we may take the tramway
to Southsea. This, however, would necessitate a very early start to
reach the Dockyard before 12 (see below), and many will prefer to be-in
with the Dockyard at 10 a.m. and cross thence to Gosport, recrossing
by the floating bridge to Portsmouth and walking or driving on to Southsea.
A visit to the 'Victory' should not be omitted, and a boat may be hired
to do this in crossing the harbour.

Portsmouth, a strongly fortified seaport and the chief naval

station of England includes the contiguous towns of Portsea,
,

Southsea, and Landport, with a joint population of about 140,000,

Portsmouth proper being the central but smallest part. It is also an
important garrison and one of the few places in England where
,

the soldier is as conspicuous a factor of the population as in most

Continental towns. The largest and handsomest of the numerous
barracks are the Eastney Barracks for marine artillerymen, to the
E. of Southsea. The fortifications include a series of 'lines' and a
number of detached forts, both to seaward and landward.
Portsmouth owes its importance partly to its magnificent harbour
(4^2 M. long), and partly to the sheltered roadstead of Spithead,
between the town and the Isle of Wight. Of architectural beauty
or historical remains the town can make little boast, but its
extensive nautical establishments are extremely interesting. The
*Dockyard (PI. 0, D, 1, 2; open 10-12 a.m. and 1.15-3 p.m.;
to foreigners with permission from the Admiralty only) is a gi-
gantic establishment, where everything appertaining to the build-
ing and equipment of a fleet is constructed. It covers an area of
300 acres, and includes several large fitting and repairing basins
with an aggregate area of 60 acres, besides four spacious dry-docks,
and several building-slips where men-of-war of the largest size
,

are constructed. Among the many interesting sights may be no-

ticed the machinery which supplies the whole navy with block-
sheaves. The Qun-Wharf or arsenal, with its extensive stores of
marine ordnance and ammunition, also deserves a visit (adm. 9.30-
12 and 2-4). Adjoining the Dockyard is a Convict Prison, with
space for 1300 inmates.
The Church of St. Thomas Becket (PI. C, 4), in the High Street,
is an interesting old building, said to have been originally built in
the 13th cent. it contains a monument to the second Duke of Buck-
;

ingham, who was assassinated by Felton in a house at the head of

the street ,now marked 'Buckingham House' (on the E. side,
just below the barracks). Charles II. was married on May
22nd, 1662, to Catharine of Braganza in the Qarrison Chapel,
which belonged to a religious institution founded in the time of
Henry III. A Roman Catholic Cathedral (PI. D, 3) has been built
in Edinburgh Road. The house of John Pounds, the cobbler who
founded the ragged-school system (1 819), is in Oyster Street (PI. C, 4).
58 Route 7. GOSPORT.

The forts on the hills to the N. of Portsmouth should be visited

for the sake of the views they afford of Hampshire and the Isle of
Wight. A boat should also be hired for an excursion in the har-
bour, where a visit may be paid to the old 'Victory', Nelson's flag-
ship at the battle of Trafalgar and on Sunday divine service (10
;

a.m.) may be attended in the 'Wellington', the flag-ship of the Port

Admiral. Off Southsea is a red buoy marking the spot where the
'Royal George' sank in 1782, with 'twice four hundred men'. Phil-
anthropists will And it interesting to visit the Soldiers' and Sailors'
Institute, founded by Miss Robinson, at the foot of High St. (PI. 0,4).
Landpobt, to the E. of Portsea and Portsmouth and N. of South-
sea, was the birthplace of Charles Dickens (1812), whose father was
a clerk in the Dockyard. The Town Railway Station (PI. E, 3)
lies here, opposite the Victoria Park, formed on the glacis of the
old fortifications.
Southsea (hotels, see p. 56), the S. suburb of Portsmouth,
with an esplanade, a canoe lake (E. Southsea), two piers, and other
attractions, is now a fashionable watering-place and decidedly the
pleasantest of the joint towns for a prolonged stay. It is easily
reached by tramway, or by the short new railway from Portsmouth
Town to East Southsea. Southsea Castle, now converted into a
modern fort, was built by Henry VIII.
Gosport (India Arms, Star, both unpretending), with about
8000 inhabitants lies opposite Portsmouth, on the other side of
,

the harbour (ferry, see p. 56). It contains the provision-maga-

zines and bakehouses (Royal Clarence Victualling Yard; open to
visitors under the same conditions as the Dockyard), which were
formerly a part of Portsmouth Dockyard. The steam corn-mill
alone cost more than 75,000i. The Ship - Biscuit Machinery by ,

which 2000 cwt. of biscuit can be baked in 1 hr., is extremely

interesting. The government establishments here also include
a clothes - making department, a brewery, etc., all on a most ex-
tensive scale. —
A little to the S.E. of Gosport is Haslar Hospital,
a spacious building, with accommodation for 2000 sick or wounded
sailors. At -the extremity of Haslar Point is the Blockhouse Fort,
commanding the narrow entrance to Portsmouth Harbour. To —
the W. of the Hospital is the small watering-place of Anglesey
(Anglesey Hotel), forming an outlying suburb of Gosport. —
Stokes
Bay (stat., see p. 67) contains the 'measured mile' for testing the
speed of new government steamships.
A pleasant excursion may be made to Porchester (by rail in '/< hr.),
the earliest seaport on this inlet ('portus castra'). The 'Castle, founded by
the Romans, affords an extensive view. The Keep is of Norman origin. The
outer court is still surrounded by the ancient Roman walls. The church
situated within the castle-walls was founded in 1133; some remains of
the original Norman edifice are still in situ.
Railway from Portsmouth or Gosport to Southampton, 26 M., in 1 hr.
(fares 4s. Gd., 3s., 2s. 3d.). Steamboat from Portsmouth to Southampton
in li/2 hr., preferable in fine weather (fares 3s. and 2s. (id.).—Scenery
between Portsmouth and Southampton attractive.
 ;

REIGATE. 8. Route. 59
After quitting the island of Portsea, the train skirts the base of
Portsdown Hill. 7 M. Porchester, see above. To the right, on the top of
of the hill, stands Nelson's Monument, erected by his comrades at the Battle
of Trafalgar, a useful landmark for shipping.
9 M. Fareham (Red Lion), a busy little town, is the station for
(2!/2 M.) Titehfield (omn. twice daily), which possesses a handsome Early
English church and the remains of Titehfield House, erected in the 16th
cent, for the Earl of Southampton. An omnibus also runs from Fareham
to Lee-on-lhe-Solenl (Hotels), a small seaside resort of recent origin, with
an iron pier. Boarhvnt, 3 M. to the N.E. of Fareham, has a partly pre-Nor-
man church. A new line from Fareham to Netley (p. 82) affords an alter-
native route to Southampton. — The train now passes through a tunnel
600 yds. in length, and shortly afterwards another, about 200 yds. long.
Near Botley the line crosses the small river Hmnble. About 6 M. to the
E. lies Bishop's Waltham (branch-line), with the ruined castle of the Bishops
of Winchester.
20 M. Bishopstoke , pleasantly situated on the Itchen, is the junction
for the lines to Winchester and Salisbury. The train here turns sharply
to the S., and soon reaches (26 M.) Southampton (see p. 80).

8. From London to Dorking and Guildford.

South Eastern Railwat to (30'/2 M.) Dorking in l'A-i 1 ^ hr. (fares is.,
3s., 2s. Id.); to (43 M.) Guildford in 1V»-2V4 brs. (fares 5s., 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d.).
The trains start from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and London Bridge.
[The shortest route to Dorking is by the London, Brighton, and South
Coast Railway from London Bridge and Victoria (25 M. from London
Bridge, 23'/2 M. from Victoria, in 1 hr. 7 ruin, to l 3 /4 hr. ; fares as above)
and the most direct route to Guildford is by the South Western Rail-
way, described at p. 64 (31 M., in '/i-^Vs *>*• 5 fares as above).]
From(5M.)iVew Cross (pp. 12,32) to(22i/4 M.).RedftjU Junction,
the line coincides with the L. B. S. 0. railway to Brighton (R. 6).
At Redhill the Reading, Guildford, and Reigate Branch of the
S. E. R. diverges to the right.
24 M. Reigate (White Hart, well spoken of; Crown), a plea-
sant-looking old town with 19,000 inhab., lying in the midst of
very attractive scenery, is a favourite residence of London mer-
chants. 'Reigate Sand' is much in request for florists and glass-
makers. Below the remains of the old Castle is the Barons' Cave,
in which, according to a baseless tradition, the barons met to con-
cert the terms of Magna Charta. The castle grounds are prettily
laid out. The Parish Church, restored by Sir G. G. Scott, con-
tains curious monuments and some early pillars in the nave.
To the S. of the town are Reigate Priory (Lady Henry Somerset), with
pleasant grounds, and Reigate Park, commanding a beautiful view. To —
the W., on the way to Dorking, lies Reigate Heath, a pleasant spot for a
ramble. — From (i'/2 M.) Reigate Hill, to the N. of the town, is obtained a
charming "View of the Weald of Sussex, enclosed between the North and
South Downs. The descent may be made on the N. side to (IV2M.) Gatton
(p. 46).— Pedestrians will find themselves repaid by walking from Reigate
to (6 M.) Dorking (p. 60), either by the high-road across Reigate Heath
(see above) and through Betchworth, or by following the ridge of the
North Downs to Box Hill (p. 60) and then descending to the left.
Beyond Reigate the train continues to skirt the S. base of the
North Downs. 27 M. Betchworth, a pretty village on the Mole,
the banks of which between this and Dorking are very picturesque.
60 Route 9. DORKING. From London

Betchworth Park lies l'/a M. farther to the W., and may be crossed
by those approaching Dorking on foot. —
29 /.2 M. Boxhill lies at
1

the foot of the hill (590 ft.) so named from the box-plants with
which it is covered. The top of the hill is easily reached and com-
mands a charming view. The descent may be made on the W.
side to Burford Bridge, with a good inn, in which Keats wrote his
'Endymion' (room shown).
30i/
2 M. Dorking (White Horse, R. & A. 4s.; lied Lion,
High St.; Star §
Garter, near the L. B. S. 0. station; *Burford
Bridge Hotel, 1 M. to the N., see above, better than the Dorking
inns for any stay), an old-fashioned little town with 6330inhab., is
delightfully situated in a valley at the foot of the North Downs,
amid some of the most pleasing scenery in England. It is an ad-
mirable centre for the pedestrian who will find charming walks
,

in all directions. The five-toed breed of fowls that takes its name
from this place is well-known to poultry- fanciers. Others will
know the name from the 'Battle of Dorking', a clever little book
by Col. Ohesncy, who depicts the imaginary overthrow here of the
British forces by the invading Teuton. The old custom of playing
football in the streets of the town on Shrove Tuesday is still kept up.
The only object of special interest in the town itself is the
handsome modern Church of St. Martin, with a lofty spire erected
as a memorial of Bishop Wilberforce. The large house on the hill
opposite, beyond the railway, is Benbies, the seat of Geo. Cubitt,
Esq., M.P.
To the E. of the town lies the *Deepdene the lovely country-
,

scat of Lord Clinton, containing a fine gallery of pictures and sculp-

tures, including wOTks by Raphael, Correggio, Veronese, Rubens,
Reynolds, Beechey, Lawrence, Martin ('Fall of Babylon'), Thor-
valdsen, and Flaxman, and also collections of enamels, gems, and
other objects of art (not shown). The *Grounds, including the
beautifully-kept Italian gardens and one of the finest shows of
rhododendrons and tulips in England are always open to the
,

public (10-4). In the preface to 'Coningsby', Disraeli records that

the work 'was conceived and partly executed amid the glades and
galleries of the Dcepdene'. One of the finest points of the park is
the group of Scottish firs known as the 'Glory'. The Deepdene is
adjoined on the E. by *Betchworth Park, also belonging to Lord
Clinton, with some noble chestnut trees and a famous avenue of
limes.
Environs (comp. Map, p. 64). The neighbourhood of Dorking is so
rich in pleasant, walks and drives that it is impossible to do more than
indicate a few of the most attractive. The pedestrian will often feel
surprised at the comparative wildness and solitude of the scenery, and w*ill
find it difficult to realize that he is within so short a distance of London.
The farm-houses near Dorking, and in Surrey generally, are often ex-
tremely picturesque.
Travellers bound fur Guildford (12 M.) are recommended to leave the
railway at Dorking and perform the rest of the journey on foot. The
 to Guildford. DORKING. 8. Route. 61

moat attractive direct route leads along the ridge of the North Downs, coin-
ciding to some extent with the old Pilgrims' Way to Canterbury (p. 25)
and affording a constant series of delightful views. The following round
(18-20 M.), preferable to the direct route from Dorking to Gomshall, gives
as good an idea of the varied scenery in this district as can he obtained
in a day.
Feom Dobking to Guildfokd vii Leith Hill, a walk of 18-20 if. We
leave the town by South Street, and in 5 min. reach a bifurcation, where
we follow the right branch, leading to Coldharbour. We turn again
to the left almost immediately, and reach a finger-post indicating our
way to Coldharbour. We keep straight up the hill, and at (6 min.) the
top choose the right branch of the road. 3 min. Entrance to Bury Hill
Park Farm, with a 'No Footpath' board. About 1 M. farther on, the road,
here running between lofty banks of sand, enters Redlands Wood, appar-
ently so called from the colour of the soil. At (l'/2 M.) some cottages, a
lane to the left leads to Anstiebury Gamp, while our road descends to the
right to the pretty village of Coldharbour (Plough Inn), where the rugged
E. escarpment of Coldharbour Common rises to the right. Beyond Cold-
harbour it is better to avoid the steep road ascending to the right and
to follow the level road in a straight direction, which leads through a
succession of beautiful trees. (A branch to the left leads to the white
gate of Kitlands, with its fine woods, which are open to the public.)
We keep to the right, pass the church and vicarage (left), and reach
(4 min.) a gate across the road. In i/s M. more we reach a second gate,
where we find ourselves just below the tower on Leith Hill, to which we
may ascend either by the direct but very steep path (5 min.), or by making
a detour to the right. The 'View from Leith Hill (965 ft. ; tower gener-
ally open after 12, adm. Id.) is beautiful and extensive, reaching in
clear weather from the South Downs and the English Channel on the S.
to the dome of St. Paul's on the N. It is said that 12 or 13 counties are
visible. So many paths radiate from the heath -clad top of Leith Hill
that it is practically impossible to give accurate directions for the next
part of the route. With the aid of the Ordnance Map and a pocket com-
pass we shall probably find little difficulty in descending across Wotton
Common and through the woods, in a direction a little to the W. of N.,
to the Swiss-looking little village of O/2 hr.) Friday Street ('street or way
of Friga'), picturesquely situated among trees on a large pond. A path
along the E. bank of the stream descends hence to (1 M.) Wotton House,
the home of John Evelyn (d. 1706), the Diarist and author of 'Sylva', to
whose love for trees, inherited by his descendants, is owing much of the
rich variety of the woods in the district. The house, an extensive red
edifice (no admission), contains the MS. of Evelyn's Diary, the prayer-
book used by Charles I, at his execution, and other relics ; it is now occu-
pied by W. J. Evelyn, Esq., a collateral descendant of the Diarist. There
is a pleasing account of a visit to Wotton House in 'Passages frcrn the
English Note-Books of Nathaniel Hawthorne'' (Vol.1, p. 399; Boston, 1870).
The path keeps to the right of the house and debouches on a private
road, which we follow to the left, passing the front gate of Wotton House.
At the (5 min.) lodge-gate we may turn either to the right to reach the
high-road from Guildford to Dorking, or to the left (better), crossing the stream
and taking a path to the right through the wood. On leaving the wood
O/2 M.) we follow the road to the right for a little and then take a field-
path to the left, which joins the high-road at a O/4 M.) cottage known
as Evershed's. [A little to the E. is the picturesque Crossuays Farm.]
Continuing our way to Guildford, we follow the high-road to (V2 M.)
Abinger Homrrur and O/2 M.) Gcmshall (p. 62), where those who aie fatigued
may rejoin the railway. Beyond Gomshall we soon reach (1 M.) Shere
(p. 62), on quitting which (at the sign-post) we choose the upper read to
the right, leaving AlHry (p. 65) telow us to the left. (Another short
digression may le made from the cross-roads to the Silent Pool, lying a
little to the right of the road; key kept at an adjoining cottage.) Ibis
road ascends the Allvry Downs to (1 M.) *NtKlar,ds Coiner, a spot famous
for the beautiful view it ctnmancs. A frger-post here indicates our
 ;

62 Route 8. LEATHERHEAD. From London

way to Guildford across the short turf of the Downs (fine views), passing
several ancient yews. The Church of St. Martha (see below) is a conspicuous
object to the left, on the other side of the valley, along which the pil-
grims' path is supposed to have run. After 1 M. we reach a road, which
M
we follow, to the right, to P/2 ) a finger-post, where we take the field-
path leading in a straight direction to O/2 M.) Guildford (see below).
To the N. a pleasant walk may be taken from Dorking past Denotes
(p. 60) and across Ranmore Common to (6 M.) Leatherhead (see below). The
church of Ranmore is a modern edifice by Sir G. G. Scott, with a spire
conspicuous in many views of the district. — About 2'/2 M. to the N. by
the London road is Mickleham, where Madame d'Arblay (Fanny Burney)
lived and wrote at Camilla Lacey, a house named after one of her novels
her husband was one of a little colony of French refugees settled in the
neighbouring Juniper Hall. The excursion to Mickleham may be easily
combined with an ascent of Boxhill (p. 60) and may be extended across
Noroury Part: (fine yews in the 'Druids' Walk') to Leatherhead (see below).
1

— The walk from Dorking to (6 M.) Eeigate through Betchworth Park

and Betchworth has been mentioned at p. 59.
The direct line of the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway
to Dorking (see p. 59) also traverses a beautiful district. The principal
stations are (8'/a M. from Victoria) Mitcham, (12 M.) Sutton (16 M.) Epsom
,

(see Baedeker's London), and (20 II.) Leatherhead (Swan; Duke's Head),
pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Mole (see also above). The
last station before (23'/2 M.) Dorking is (22V2 M.) Boxhill & Burford Bridge
(comp. p. 60; not to be confounded with the Boxhill stat. of the S.E.R.).
The train still follows the line of the hills, with a pretty wooded
country to the right. — 35 M. Qomshall is the station for the
villages of Qomshall (Black Horse) and Shere (White Horse), the
latter a charming little place, 1 M. to the W. of the station, with
a picturesque church and a timher-built parsonage. About 2^ M.
to the S. E. of the station is Abinger (Abinger Hatch) , a small
village with an interesting and very early church and the old
stocks and whipping-post. Gomshall is also the nearest station
to (21/4M.) Wotton (p. 61).
Beyond Gomshall the line bends to the left (S.), passing to the
S. of Albury Park. 38*/2 M. Chilworth is the station for Albury,
a village about 1 M. to the N. E., the most prominent feature in
which is the large Jrvingite Church in the Perp. style, built by the
late Mr. Drummond. The old Church, said to be the most ancient
in the county, has been converted into a mortuary chapel (no adm.).
Both churches are in Albury Park, which now belongs to the Duke
of Northumberland, son-in-law of Mr. Drummond. Mr. Martin
Tupper (d. 1889), of 'Proverbial Philosophy' fame, lived at Albury.
The village of Chilworth, a little to the W. of the station, is the best
starting-point for a visit to (V2 hr.) St. Martha's Church, which occupies
an isolated and conspicuous position on the hill above it. This interest-
ing Norman edifice is supposed to have been erected for the use of pil-
grims on their way to Canterbury; and a trace of its old purpose remains
in the quasi-pilgrimage still made to it on Good Friday by the people of
the neighbourhood. The 'View from the church is very extensive.
Beyond (40'/2 M.) Shalford the train crosses the "Wey, turns to
the right through a tunnel, and reaches —
43 M. Guildford ( White Lion ; White Hart; Angel; Rail. Re-
freshmt. Rooms), the county-town of Surrey, with about 12,000
inhab., pleasantly situated on the Wey, and well deserving Cob-
 to Guildford. GUILDFORD. 8. Route. 63

bett's description of it as the most 'happy-looking' town he over

saw. It consists chiefly of one main street, many of the buildings
in which are most quaint and picturesque. Guildford is a place
of great antiquity its records extending back to the 10th cent.,
,

while there is also some reason to think that there was a Roman
station on the same site. According to some historians the mas-
sacre here in 1036 of the Norman attendants of Alfred the Atheling,
was among the chief links in the chain of events leading to Duke
William's invasion of England. The town was formerly the centre
of a considerable cloth - making industry, and its corn-market is
still one of the most important in the S. of England.
The most prominent building is the keep of the old Norman
Castle, which stands a little to the S. of the High St., rising to
a height of 70 ft., with walls 10 ft. in thickness; the grounds are
now a public garden. Below the castle are large caverns in the
chalk, which are supposed to have been connected with the crypt
under the Angel Hotel. —Near the top of the High St., on the
N. side, is Abchbishop Abbot's Hospital , a picturesque Tudor
building founded in 1619 for decayed tradesmen and their widows.
It contains some interesting portraits (Wycliffe, Calvin, etc.) and
two good stained-glass windows (in the chapel). —
Opposite the
hospital is Trinity Church, with monument to Archbp. Abbot (d.
1633; in the S. aisle), who was born at Guildford, and Speaker
Onslow. — The Church of St. Mary, in Quarry St., to the S. of
High St., is more interesting, dating in great part from the Norman
period. Visitors should notice the grotesque carvings of the roof
and the paintings in the Baptist's Chapel, attributed to William
of Florence (ca. 1250).
Other more or less noteworthy buildings are the Guildhall
(High St.), a brick and timber edifice of 1682, with some histori-
cal portraits; the Grammar School, at the head of the High St.,
dating from the 16th cent. ; and the Royal Surrey County Hospital,
on the Farnham Road, near the railway-station.
Guildford is a railway-centre of some importance, being the junction
of the Beading and Keigate branch of the S. E. R. with the line of the
S. W. K. to Portsmouth and Farnham (see p. 66) and the L. B. S. C.
line to Horsham (p. 53).
Environs. Visitors to Guildford had better begin their excursions
by an ascent of St. Catharine's Hill, a small height i'/4 M. to the S., between
the high-road and the river, commanding a good view of the surrounding
district. At the top is a small ruined chapel, dating from the beginning
of the 14th century. —
This walk may be made part of a pleasant round
of about 6-7 M. by proceeding to the S.W., via Arlington and Littleton,
to (2 M.) Loseley, a fine Elizabethan mansion (no admission) in a well-
wooded park. Hence we keep due W. to (1 M.) the village of Compton, with
a very interesting Norman church, with an almost unique double-storied
chancel. From Compton we ascend to the top of the (1 M.) Sog's Back
(p. 64) and follow the ridge eastwards (views) back to (IV2 M.) Guildford.
To reach (2'/2 M.) St. Martha's Church (see p. 62) from Guildford , we
leave the town by Quarry St. and the Portsmouth (S.) road, and on passing
the p/a M.) old toll-house, near Shalford Park, take the shady lane to the
left. Near the end of the lane we follow a footpath to the right, crossing
64 Route 9. WIMBLEDON. From London

a small plantation of firs, and reach a cottage at the foot of Chantry Downs,
along which lies the rest of our route. To vary the return-route we may
descend the N.E. side of St Martha's Hill and make for (l l /2 !'•) Newlands
Corner (p. 61) , whence we follow the ridge to (2 3/4 M.) Guildford as de-
scribed at pp. 61, 02.
A breezy walk of 10 M., with unimpeded views on either side, may
he enjoyed by following the road which leads along the curious chalk
rid^e called the Hog's Back (350-500 ft.) to Farnham (p. 75). On reaching
(8 M.) the end of the ridge, Waverley Abbey (p. 66) may be included in the
walk by a digression of l>/2 M. to the S. (in all ll'/a M.). —
Other points
of interest within easy walking distance of Guildford are "Sutton Place
(3'/a 31. to the N.), a Renaissance mansion of the Tudor period, with
highly interesting terracotta decorations; Clandon Park, 2 M. to the N.B.,
on the road to (12 M.) Leatherhead (p. 62) ; and Godalming (p. 65), 4 M.
to the S. A favourite excursion is the ascent of the Hindhead (p. 66),
12M to the S.W., but this is usually accomplished by taking the train to
Haslemere (p. 65).
From Guildford this branch of the S. E. R. is continued to
Ash (the junction of a short branch to Aldershot Town), Aldershot
(N. Camp.'; comp. p. 75), Farnborough (p. 76), Blackwater (the
station for Sandhurst Military College), Wellington College (a well
known public school), Wokingham, Farley, and (67 M.) Reading
(see p. 106).

9. From London to Portsmouth.

74 M. London and South Western Railway from Waterloo in2'/2-3hrs.
—
(fares 15*., 10s. 6d., 6s. l l /2d.). but Portsmouth
This is the direct route,
may also be reached by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway,
via Ford Junction (comp. p. 53), from London Bridge and Victoria (same
times and fares).
The train runs at first on a viaduct above the streets of London.
Vauxhall, the first station, is still within the town; but we emerge
into the country near (4!/ 2 M.) Clapham Junction, through which
1200 trains pass daily. The first glimpse of the pretty scenery tra-
versed by the line is obtained after passing through the long cutting
beyond that station. The landscape, bordered on the N. by gently-
sloping hills, and dotted with groups of trees and numerous com-
fortable-looking country-houses, affords a charming and thoroughly
English picture. —
7'/2 M\ Wimbledon lies a little to the S. of Wim-
bledon Common, a favourite golfing-ground for Londoners and form-
erly the scene of the annual meeting of the National Rifle Asso-
ciation (comp. p. 75). Beyond Wimbledon a line diverges to Epsom
(see Baedeker's London). Near (10 M.) Coombe - Maiden, to the
right, is Coombe House. About 2 M. beyond (12 M.) Surbiton
the branch-line to Hampton Court (see Baedeker's London) diverges
on the right. —
14'/2 M. Esher (Bear), a picturesque village, cele-
brated in the verse of Pope and Thomson. Esher Place once the ,

palace of Cardinal Wolsey, has been rebuilt. In the vicinity stands

Claremont, at one time the property of Lord Clive, inhabited at a
later period by the Princess Charlotte (who died here in 1817) and
her husband, Leopold, late King of the Belgians. It was afterwards
assigned as a residence to Louis Philippe and his wife, both of
 ;,

to Portsmouth. HASLEMERE. 9. Route. 65

whom died here, and is now occupied by the Duchess of Albany.
The Sandown Races are run near Esher. —
17 M. Walton is the
station for Walton-on-Thames, 1 M. to the N. (p. 222).
19 M. Weybridge (Hand $ Spear; Lincoln Arms ; *Oatlands
Park, see below), prettily situated near the Thames, 1 M. from the
station. The Roman Catholic church formerly contained the remains
of Louis Philippe, King of France, his consort, and his daughter-
in-law the Duchess of Orleans, which were removed to France in
1876. To the N. is Oatlands Park, formerly a royal demesne, and
afterwards the property of the Duke of Newcastle. The house,
rebuilt in 1794, is now a favourite hotel. In the neighbourhood
rises *St. George's Hill commanding a beautiful view,
(500 ft.),
which includes on the N. "Windsor Castle and Hampton Court. A
little farther on, a branch diverges to Addlestone, Chertsey, and
Virginia Water (see Baedeker's London).
24y2 M. Woking (Albion, Railway Hotel near the station ,

White Hart, in the village, l'/2 M. to the S. ; Rail. Refreshmt.

Rooms), where our line diverges from the line to Basingstoke (Win-
chester, Southampton see p. 75). The floriculturist should visit
;

* Waterer's Nursery at Knaphill (2y M. turning to the left at the

2 ;

station), especially in June, when the rhododendrons aTe in bloom.

The old church, in the E.E. and Dec. styles, was restored in 1878.
The ruins of Newark Abbey lie on the Wey, 2!/2 M. to the E. of
Woking. Woking Cemetery, see p. 75.
The Guildford and Portsmouth line now turns to the left and
runs due S. — 31 M. Guildford, see p. 62. —
The train then
passes through a tunnel and soon reaches —
35 M. Godalming (King's Arms ; Angel), a quaint little coun-
try-town (accent on the first syllable), with many old-fashioned
timber-houses (17th cent.). The Church near the station is a large
building with a Norman tower. On the hill to the N. is the im-
posing new building of the Charterhouse School, removed from
London to Godalming in 1872; it has room for 500 boys. The
library contains the MS. of 'The Newcomes' by Thackeray and many
of the original 'Punch' drawings by Leech, hoth novelist and artist
having been educated at the Charterhouse. The country round God-
alming affords abundance of charming walks. —
36!/2 M. Milford;
38'/2 M. Witley, with an E. E. church containing some brasses.
43 M. Haslemere (White Horse, R. & A. 3s. 6d. ; Railway Inn)
is the best starting-point for a visit to Blackdown and the Hindhead
two fine points of view, and the centre of a district that has become
classic as the residence of many celebrities in literature and art.
Among these are George Eliot, who lived at Brookbank in Shotter
Mill, a little to the "W. of the station, and Tennyson, who has built
himself a house (Aldworth) on the S. side of Blackdown Hill, which
rises about 2 M. to the S.
From Haslemebe to the Hindhead, 2 l /2 M. On leaving the station we
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 5
06 Route 9. HINDHEAD.
turn to the left, soon afterwards turning to the left again, crossing the
railway, and passing to the right of the church. At the 0/2 M.) bifur-
cation we descend to the left, passing a red, gabled house. The long
dark ridge of the Hindhead is now in full view ahead of us. In 5 min.
more we reach a gate on the left, leading to a villa, the garden of which we
cross. Beyond the villa we go diagonally across the field to the right, on the
other side of which is a cart-track ascending the hill (to the left). After
following this track for 10-12 min. and passing through half-a-dozen
gates, we reach the open common near some cottages. To reach Gibbet
Hill, the W. extremity and the highest part of the Hindhead, we ascend
to the right, the track to it leading nearly straight across the moor.
[Another route leads at once under the railway, to the right (S.) of the
station, and turns to the right a little way up the hill. The lane thus en-
tered runs right up to (2 M.) the Hindhead.] The highest point of the
Hindhead (903 ft.), marked by a granite cross, commands a most beau-
tiful and extensive view, including the Hampshire Downs on the S. W.
and Leith Hill (p. 61) on the E. The cross and the name (Gibbet Hill)
attached to this spot commemorate the murder of a sailor in 1786 at a
point (marked by a stone) on the old Portsmouth road, on the N. side of
the hill, and the fact that the murderers were afterwards captured and
hanged on the scene of their crime. The romantic and lonely hollow
round which the road here runs , mentioned by Dickens in 'Nicholas
Nickleby , is called the "Devil's Punch Bowl; and the tourist should make
1

his way along it, either by the old coach-road or by the road on the
ridge of the Hindhead, to the W., to P/4 M.) the Huts Hotel, which lies
a little beyond the point where the roads meet.
From the Hindhead to Farnham via Frensham Ponds and Waver-
ley Abbet, 9-10 3J. Tolerable walkers, who do not wish to return to Hasle-
mere, may extend the Hindhead excursion very agreeably as follows. From
the Royal Huts Inn we follow the Farnham road to the N.W. and after
V3 M. diverge from it to the left by the road indicated by the sign-post
as leading to Churt and Frensham. This leads across a wide expanse of
moor to Churt and (4M.) Frensham Great Pond, a small lake in the middle
of Frensham Common, a sandy heath, with three curiously-shaped mounds
known as the UeoiVs Jumps. We keep to the road, which skirts the E.
(right) side of the pond. At the (V2M.) cross-roads, where there is a
school, we keep to the right, soon reaching P/4 M.) a bridge over the
Wey. To the right is Pterrepont House, a pleasing example of Norman
Shaw's modern-antique style. Ascending the hill for a few minutes more,
we reach Millbridge, where we keep straight on if bound for Farnham direct
(372 M.), or turn to the right at the post-office if going to Waverley
Abbey. In the latter case we turn to the left at (l ] /4 M.) Tilford, and
after >/3 M. more to the right, '/i 31. Bridge, where we keep straight on up
the hill. At the (5 min.) top we diverge to the left and follow the cart-
track through the wood, which rejoins the road V2M. farther on, a little
above the entrance to Waverley Abbey, to which visitors are admitted on
application to the lodge-keeper. The remains of this Cistercian monastery,
of the 12th cent., which is said to have suggested to Walter Scott the
title of his first novel, are fragmentary, but they are very prettily
situated on the bank of the Wey. —Waverley Abbey is 2 M. from Farn-
ham by the direct road. —
Farnham, see p. 75.
Beyond Haslemere are (47 M.) Liphook (Royal Anchor) and
(51 V2 M.) Liss (Spread Eagle), both good centres for pedestrians.
About 5 M. to the N.W. of Liss is Selborne (Queen), the home of
Gilbert White (d. 1793), who has left a full and loving description of the
district in his 'Natural History of Selborne
1
.Walkers to Selborne may
go on to (5 M.) Alton (Swan), a station on the Aldershot, Farnham, and
Winchester branch of the S. W. Railway.
55 M. Petersfield (Red Lion; Dolphin), a small town with
6500 inhab. and a large grammar-school, is the junction of a branch-
line to (9 1 /-.) M.) Midhurst (Angel), a place frequently visited for
 ISLE OF WIGHT. 10. Route. 67
the sake of the fine ruins of *Cowdray, a magnificent 16th cent,
mansion, burned down in 1793.
Beyond Petersfleld the train penetrates the chalky South Downs
by a tunnel, passes (63 4 /2 M.) Rowland's Castle, and reaches (66 M.)
Havant. — Thence to (74 M.) Portsmouth, see R. 7.

10. Isle of Wight.

Railway from London (South Western Railway from Waterloo Station,
comp. R. 9; or London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway from Victoria
or London Bridge, see E. 7) to Portsmouth Harbour in 21/2-4 hrs. (fares
15s. 6d, 10*. 10d., 6*. 2d.); to Ryde, Isle of Wight, in 3-5 hrs. (fares 17*.
1<J., 12*., 7*. id. ; return, available for a month, 29s. lid., 21s. id., lis.
Id.). Another direct route from London to the Isle of Wight is by the
South Western Railway to Stokes Bay, to theW. of Portsmouth, and thence by
steamer in >/4 hr. to Ryde (same time and fares). Through-tickets via Stokes
Bay are also available via Portsmouth. —
Steamboat from Portsmouth to
Ryde in 25 min., at frequent intervals during the day, fares Is. and 8d.;
return-fares Is. tid., Is. Steamers from Southampton, see p. 74; from Ly-
minglon, p. 73. Steamers also ply from Portsmouth and Southsea to Sea
View and Bembridge in l-l'/4 hr.
In favourable weather the finest points of the island may be visited
in Three Days : —
1st Day. From Ryde to Shanklin by rail (fares 2*., 1*.
id., Id.) in 25 min. ; thence on foot to Shanklin Chine, and to Ventnor
via Bonchurch, in IV2 hr. ; in the afternoon to Blackgang and back in
4Vz hrs. by coach (comp. p. 70). —
2nd Day. From Ventnor to Freshwater
and Alum Bay by coach in 3>/2 hrs., visiting the Needles, and returning by
coach to Freshwater (fare about 7».) ; from Freshwater to Newport by train
in 3/i br. — 3rd Day. Excursions from Newport; from Newport to Cowes,
rail in '/4 hr. —Alternative routes for the second and third days 2nd Day.
: —
From Ventnor to Newport (10 M.) by coach (p. 70) ; excursions from New-
port. — 3rd Day. From Newport to Yarmouth and Freshwater by train
(p. 73), in /4 hr., visiting Alum Bay and the Needles; in the afternoon
3
back to Newport, and thence to Cowes. —
Three days spent in this
manner will show the chief beauties of the island, but those who have
time to spare will prefer to spend at least 7-10 days here. To see —
as much as possible in One Dat, take an early train from Ryde to
Ventnor, arriving at the latter place in time for the coach (10 a.m.)
to Freshwater and Alum Bay, and back to Freshwater (as above); in the
afternoon proceed by train from Freshwater to Newport, and visit Caris-
brooke Castle ; then to Ryde or Cowes by late train. —
Two Days: —
1st Day. From Ryde to Newport by train ; to Carisbrooke Castle on foot;
from Newport to Shanklin by rail; from Shanklin to Ventnor on foot;
spend nigbt at Ventnor. —
2nd Day. Coach (as above) to Freshwater and
Alum Bay (visiting the Needles), and back to Freshwater; train from
Freshwater to Newport; railway to Cowes; steamboat to Portsmouth or
Southampton.
The fares of the Isle of Wight railway are very high, and third-class
carriages are generally provided only on one or two trains daily, running
at an inconveniently early hour. As, however, the distances are short,
the traveller will find that the numerous coaches, supplemented by a
little walking, will make him comparatively independent of the railway.
— In the height of the season the i8land is crowded with visitors, and
accommodation is often difficult to obtain unless previously ordered.
A trip round the island (occupying 5-7 hrs.), for which an oppor-
tunity is usually afforded thrice a week in summer by steamers from
Ryde and Cowes, is very pleasant in fine weather.
The *Isle of Wight, the Vectti of the Romans, lying from 3 to
6 M. distant from the 8. coast of England, contains within a com-
5*
68 Route 10. RYDB. Isle of

paratively narrow compass a remarkable variety of charming scenery.

In circumference it measures about 65 M. ; from E. to W. it is 22 M.
long, and from N. to S. 13 M. broad. Pop. (1881) 73,652. The
highest points are St. Catherine's Hill (p. 71) to the S.W., which
is 830 ft. high, and Shanklin Down to the S.E., 795 ft. in height.
The Undercliff on the S., and Alum Bay and Freshwater Cliffs on
the "W. are the finest points.
Hyde. — *Piee Hotel, R. A. from 4j. fid., D. 5s. ; -Esplanade ;
<fe

Siviee's; Eagle, all on the beach, with a fine view. In Union Street,
reached by turning to the right at the end of the pier, and then taking
the first street to the left Kent ; Yelf's. All these are first-class hotels,
:

the Pier and the Esplanade being the most expensive: R. <fc A. 4s. Gd.,
D. 3s. (id. to 5s.— Higher up (beyond Yelfs), about >/3 M. from the Pier,
Ceown, R. & A. 3s. 6d., commercial. —
"Young's Restaurant 30 Union
—
,

Street; Albany, on the Esplanade. Private lodgings not exorbitant. —

Post Office, Union Street. —Regattas in Aug. and Sept. —
Theatre, at the
top of Union St. — Baths at the end of the short pier (adm. 6<J.).
The railway at Ryde runs out to the end of the pier (Pier Head Sta-
tion), and travellers with through-tickets to Ryde are conveyed without
extra, charge to the Pier Gates or St. John's Road (town) stations. Passen-
gers for other parts of the island are taken on without change of carriage.
Coaches run from Ryde in summer to Ventnor, Shanklin, Osborne,
Newport, and other places of interest.
Ryde, an agreeable and thriving watering-place (11,422 inhab.),
surrounded by numberless villas, affords many pleasant walks. The
Promenade Pier (adm. 2d.), l /% M. in length, is a favourite and
fashionable promenade (*Restaurant) along one side run an electric
;

tramway-line and the pier railway (see above). The Museum, in

George St. contains objects of local interest. To the W. of the
,

pier is the building of the Royal Victoria Yacht Club. To the S.E.
of Ryde lie a number of picturesque country-seats, and the pleasant
villages of Spring Vale, Sea View (Crown), with a long pier (steamers
to Portsmouth), and St. Helen's (p. 69). The surrounding district is
finely wooded.
To Quake Abbet and Fishbouene, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. (there
and back). Starting from the Crown Hotel, we descend Thomas Street
to the N., and take the first ttirning to the left (Spencer Road; over one
of the gates in which we observe the figure of a stag) ; we then walk
straight on till we reach (10 min.) a small gate. To the right, on the
other side, is a second gate, opening on a footpath, which leads in 10 min.
to Binslead Church. The figure of a man on a ram's head over the gate-
way here is said to have been a Saxon idol. We
next turn to the right,
and reach a point where we see a road on the left, a narrow wood-path
on the right, and another road between the two. Wetake the last or
intermediate track, arriving after a few paces opposite the gate of a private
dwelling, where we take the path to the left. Emerging from this on to
the high-road we turn to the right, and in 10 min. reach the inconsiderable,
but prettily-situated ruin of *Quarr Abbey, an old Cistercian monastery,
founded in 1132. The name is derived from the neighbouring quarries,
which are rich in fossils and much visited by geologists. —
From the ruin
we proceed in a straight direction, passing through the gate and archway,
to 0/4 hr.) Fishbourne or Fishhouse (Inn, well spoken of), picturesquely
situated amid luxuriant wood at the entrance of Wootton Creek. Charming
view. We return to Ryde by the same road.
From Rtde to Newpoet. The direct railway route is by Small-
brook, Ashey, Haven Street, Wootton, and Whippingham (20-25 min. ; fares
2s., Is. 5d., Is. or 872<J. ; comp. Map). Whippingham is the station for
 ;

Wight. SHANKLIN. 10. Route. 69

Osborne (see p. 75). In Whippingham Church, designed by the late Prince
Consort, the Princess Beatrice was married to Prince Henry of Batten-
berg, in 1885. It contains a medallion of the Prince Consort by Theed and
a font designed by Princesses Christian and Louise. The Queen attends
the service here when she is residing at Osborne. —
Newport may also
be reached by railway from Ryde or Ventnor via Sandown (see below).
From Ryde to Ventnor, 12 M., railway in V2-V4 hr. (fares from
St. John's Road 3s., 2s., 11 1/2^, from the Pier Head 4s., 2s. 10d.,
Is. 4'/2 d 0- — From the Pier Head the train runs along the pier,
stopping at the Pier Qaies at its landward end, to St. John's Road,
in the upper part of the town of Ryde. The railway then runs S.
to (4 M. from St. John's Road) Brading (Bugle; Wheatsheaf), a small
and ancient town at the foot of Brading Down. The ancient stocks
and bull-baiting ring are still preserved here. The Church contains
the burial-chapel of the Oglanders, a family which came over to
England with William the Conqueror ; their ancestral seat of Nun-
well, in the midst of a handsome park, is in the neighbourhood.
Near Brading the remains of a large *Roman Villa, with tesselated
floors, were discovered in 1880 it is supposed to have been the
;

residence of the Roman governor of the district. A

series of Roman
coins (A. D. 222-350), numerous tiles, window-glass, and a human
skeleton have been found among the ruins.
A branch-line runs from Brading to St. Helen's and (3 M.) Bembridge,
at the month of Brading Harbour or estuary of the Yar, part of which
has lately been reclaimed. Bembridge (Royal Spithead Hotel) is frequent-
ed for sea-bathing and has direct steamboat communication with Ports-
mouth (see p. 67). Adjoining it are excellent golfing links. — About 1 M.
to the S.E. of Brading, at the foot of Bembridge Down (355 ft.), is the
church of Yaverland, with a Norman door and chancel-arch. Towards
the sea Bembridge Down ends in the fine Culver Cliffs.
6 M. Sandown (Sandown Hotel; Pier; King's Head; York,
well spoken of, R. & A. 4s.), the junction for Newchurch, Horringford,
and Newport (p. 72), a thriving town and frequented bathing-place
with 3100 inhab., a pier, and an esplanade.
8Y2 M. Shanklin. — ''Daish's, in the town, with pleasant garden
•Hollier's; '''Hinton's Royal Spa, on the Esplanade; Marine Hotel, near
the station; Clarendon. — Numerous boarding-honses on the Esplanade.
Coaches ply from Shanklin to Blackgang, Carisbrooke, and Newport,
to Cowes and Osborne, and to Freshwater and Alum Bay. — Cab from
the station to the village or cliffs, for 1-2 pers., with one horse Is., with
two horses Is. 6d., to the shore 2s. 6<J. or 3s. 6<f. ; each addit. pers. 6(2. or 9d.
Shanklin, situated in a pleasant valley about 300 ft. above the
level of the sea, has grown with extraordinary rapidity from a little
village to an extensive watering-place. Its population, which was
355 in 1861, had increased to 2764 at the census of 1881. The beach
is good, and there is a handsome new pier. The picturesque old
Rectory is completely overgrown with unusually fine myrtles.
Close to Shanklin is *Shanklin Chine ('ravine', or 'cleft', from the
Anglo-Saxon cinan, German gdhnen, to yawn or gape; Inn),
a deep fissure in the cliffs, opening towards the sea. To reach it we
proceed straight from the station, in an easterly direction, for about
5 min. then turn to the right through the village, and, about 100
;
70 Route 10. VENTNOR. Isle of

paces beyond Daish's Hotel, descend to the left. A little farther on,
a footpath descends, to the right, to the seaward entrance of the
Chine (20 min.), closed by a gate (adm. 3d.). The ravine, with its
luxuriant vegetation, precipitous sides, and small brook, presents a
beautiful picture. On a shield over a small fountain are some lines
written by Longfellow when staying here in 1868. We traverse the
chine in about 10 minutes. Quitting the upper end, we take the
footpath to the left, which soon crosses the carriage-road, and leads
us in 20 min. (with beautiful retrospective views) to Luccombe
Chine, another, but less attractive ravine. Without descending (left),
we go straight on through the gate. About '/3 M. farther on, the
path descends through wood to the 'Landslip', which it traverses
to (i/4 hr.) —
Bonchurcb. (^Ribband's Hotel), lying picturesquely at the E.
extremity of the *Undercliff, a curious rocky plateau or row of cliffs,
V4-IV2 M. in width, owing its position and appearance to a suc-
cession of landslips, and extending to Blackgang Chine (p. 71),
a distance of 6-7 M. (To reach the village and hotel we ascend
to the right.) The old churchyard (gate opened by attendant)
contains the graves of John Sterling (a plain stone in the S.W.
corner), whose life was written by Carlyle, and of the Rev. W.
Adams, author of the 'Shadow of the Cross'. The tiny church is
of Norman origin. The lovely *Ohurchyard of the new church,
a little farther up the hill, should also be seen. The Pulpit Rock
and Hadfield's Lookout or Flagstaff Rock, in the grounds of Under-
mount (not open to the public), and *St. Boniface Down (785 ft.),
command magnificent views. Either continuing to follow the road, or
returning to the path along the cliffs, we reach, in 20 min. more —
Ventnor. — Hotels. '-Marine, board 3*. 3s. per week, R. extra;
Royal; Queen's, 'pens'. 10s. Bd. a day; Esplanade, all admirably situated,
with view of the sea. In the town, high up, Ckab & Lobster, with a pretty
s

garden, R. & A. from 3s. 9<f., 'pens'. 10s. 6(2. per day. —
Second class:
"Commercial, D. 3s.; Globe; Crown & Rose, moderate; Terminds Hotel,
at the station, unpretending, R. & A. 3s. —
Solent Temperance Hotel,
high up, with fine view. In the vicinity are various other hotels and
numerous lodging-houses.
Coaches. In summer the following excursion- coaches ply regularly
from Ventnor: To Freshwater Bay, the Needles, Alum Bay, and back,
1.
starting about 10 a.m. and reaching Ventnor again at 7 p.m. (fare to
Freshwater and hack 6s., to Alum Bay and hack 7s. Gd.). A stoppage for
luncheon is made at the Freshwater Bay Hotel. —
2. To Blackgang Chine,
Carisbrooke Castle, the Roman Villa, and Newport, returning via Rookley,
Appuldurcombe Park, and Wroxall (11 a.m. to 6' p.m. ; fare 5s. ; luncheon
at the Blackgang Chine Hotel or at the Red Lion Hotel, Carisbrooke).
— 3. To Arreton, Osborne, and Cowes, returning by Newport and Oodshill
(11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; fare 5s.; luncheon at Cowes). —
4. To Bonchurch,
Shanklin, Sandown, Brading, and Ryde (11 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. ; 5s., to Shank-
lin and back 3s. luncheon at Sandown Hotel).
;
—
5. To Blackgang, every
morning and afternoon (fare Is. 6d., there and back 2s.).
Ventnor, beautifully situated on Ventnor Cove, is much fre-
quented, like many other parts of the island, by persons suffering
from complaints of the chest. In winter the climate is almost Italian
 ;,

Wight. VENTNOR. 10. Route. 71

in its mildness , frost and snow being of rare occurrence, while in

summer the heat is tempered by sea-breezes. Pop. (1881) 5493.
The Royal Victoria Pier was opened in 1887. About 1 M. to the
W. is Steephill Castle, once occupied by the Empress of Austria,
with a beautiful garden, which, however, is rarely open to the
public. Opposite is * Ventnor Public Park, commanding a beautiful
view of the whole of the Undercliff from its highest point.
Excursions. The principal excursion is to Blackgang (coach, see
p. 70). The road runs at a high level, passing the Royal Hotel,
Ventnor Park, Steephill, and the Ventnor Consumptive Hospital,
to (2 M.) St. Lawrence, a neat little village, the old church of which
is the most ancient in the island, and was long the smallest in Great
Britain. On the left side of the road stands the new church,
beyond which, on the same side, but far below the road , are the
ivy-clad remains of a small Roman Catholic chapel. [About l l fa M.
to the N. of this point is Whitwell, with an interesting Norman
and E. E. church.] Farther on we pass the prettily-environed villa
of Mirables, and the fishing-village of Puckaster, near which is
Lloyd's Signal Station (left), and reach (i 1^ M.) Sandrock (*Royal
Sandrock Hotel), with a mineral spring, being the modern part of
the village of Niton (White Lion), which lies a little to the land-
ward. Below the village, on the southernmost point of the island
is St. Catherine's Lighthouse. About 1 M. beyond Sandrock is
Blackgang (*Blackgang Chine Hotel), up to which point the road
has wound along the foot of the Undercliff. The fine marine views,
with the bright green of the trees and bushes, here recall the scenery
of the Mediterranean. Around aTe numerous country-houses and
villas, standing in the midst of tasteful pleasure-grounds and gardens.
Adjoining the hotel is the ravine called ''Blackgang Chine, to which
a steep path, partly cut into steps, descends; the rocks here reach a height
of 500 ft. Weenter through a bazaar, where we are expected either to
purchase something or make a trifling payment (6d.). Below is a fine
stretch of beach. We return to the top leisurely in >/2 nr
- —Above Black-
gang is St. Catherine's Sill (830 ft.), commanding a most extensive view
over land and sea.
From Ventnor to Freshwater Bat and Alum Bat (22 M.
coach in 372 nr8 -fare 5a. or 6s.).
i
As far as (5 l /2 ni.) Blackgang
the route is the same as above. Beyond Blackgang a new military
road runs straight along the coast to Freshwater Bay, but the coaches
usually follow the more picturesque old road described below.
This diverges to the right beyond the village of Chale (Clarendon
Hotel), and enters a flatter and less attractive district, destitute of
the luxuriant vegetation through which we have just passed. King-
ston, a little farther on, has a small church picturesquely situated
on the roadside. Near (lO 1 ^ M.) Shorwell is the fine old mansion
of Northcourt, the seat of Lady Gordon, lying in the midst of
beautiful woods. About 2</2 M. farther on is Brixton, with a pic-
turesque old church, restored in 1852. Next come (15 M.) Mot-
tistone and (16 M.) Brooke; the manor-house of the latter, on the
 ,

72 Route 10. NEWPORT. Isle of

left, ispleasantly embowered in groves of noble trees. Opposite is

a small new church. Above us, on the right, is Mottistone Down,
700 ft. above the level of the sea. About 1 M. before reaching
Freshwater Bay we obtain a view of Yarmouth (p. 73), the Solent,
and the mainland to the right. From (20 M.) Freshwater Bay (p. 74)
we may proceed to (2 M.) Alum Bay (p. 74), where the coach
waits long enough to allow of a visit to the Needles (p. 74).
From Vbntnoe to Newport, 15 M., railway in 35 min. (fares
3s. 6d., 2s. 8d., is. 3d.), passing Wroxall, Sandown (p. 69), Al-
verstone, Newchurch, Horringford, Merstone, Blackwater, and Shide.
The coaches, which are preferable to the railway, generally run
via, Blackgang (comp. p. 71). The duect road via, Godshill (10 M.)
ascends between Wroxall Down (right) and Eew Down (left) to (2 M.)
Wroxall (rail, stat., see above). To the left lies the noble *Park of
Appuldurcombe, containing the magnificent mansion of that name,
now used as a school. On the highest point in the park stands a
granite obelisk, 70 ft. high, and partly destroyed by lightning, erected
in memory of Sir Robert Worsley, author of a complete history of the
Isle of Wight, and a former owner of this estate. Splendid *View.
4^2 M. Godshill (Griffin), with a large and interesting church
situated picturesquely on the top of a knoll. Beyond (6Y2M.) Book-
ley the road passes near Gatcombe Park. — 8 M. Blackwater;
9Y4 M. Shide (railway stations, see above).
10 M. Newport. — Bugle ; Warburton ; Star. — Wheatsheap,
good second-class house, ordinary at 1.15 o'clock, Is. (id. ; Rose & Crown,
quite unpretending. — Coaches ply in summer to Ventnor (comp. p. 70),
Hyde, etc.
Newport the capital of the Isle of Wight with 9430 inhab.
, ,

lieson the river Medina, which is navigable up to this point. The

Medina divides the island into two portions, or hundreds, called the
East and West Medina, each comprising 16 parishes. Newport was
once the 'new port' of Carisbrooke (see below), whence the name.
The imposing Church contains a tasteful *Monument to the memory
of the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Charles I. (see p. 73),
by Marochetti, erected by Queen Victoria. In Sept., 1648, Charles I.
was brought from Carisbrooke to take part in the negotiations for
the so-called 'Treaty of Newport', and was lodged in the Grammar
School. On the fruitless issue of the negotiations Charles was re-
moved (Nov. 30th) to Hurst Castle in Hampshire (p. 95), which
he soon left for Whitehall and his death (Jan. 30th, 1649). —
About 1 M. to the'W. of Newport rises —
^Carisbrooke Castle. (It is reached by ascending the High
Street to the monumental cross where we turn to the left at the
, ;

cross-roads we descend the road bearing slightly to the right, which

almost immediately begins to ascend and leads to the castle.)
This ancient, ivy-clad stronghold of the lord of the island is
picturesquely placed on the top of a steep eminence (admission
id., no gratuity).
 Wight. YARMOUTH. 10. Route. 73
The earliest building was Saxon, but the Keep, the oldest existing
portion, isof Norman origin. The other parts date chiefly from the 13th
cent., while the ontworks were added by Queen Elizabeth. Charles I. was
detained captive here for a considerable time before his execution; and
his son Henry, Duke of Gloucester, and his daughter, Princess Elizabeth,
were afterwards imprisoned here. The princess died in the castle 19 months
after her father's death, and the young prince was released two years
later. The remains of the rooms where Charles was imprisoned, and of
the chamber in which his daughter breathed her last, may still be seen.
The castle-well, 200 ft. deep, from which the water is drawn by a donkey
inside a large windlass wheel, is always an object of interest to visitors.
We may ascend to the top, and walk round the walls of the castle, the
view from which embraces an extensive and thoroughly English land-
scape, with numerous houses and villages: close by is the village of
Carisbrooke, farther off Newport and the River Medina, and in the distance
the Solent and the coast of Hampshire. — The restored Church of Caris-
brooke (Red Lion ; Waverley), contemporaneous with the castle, possesses
a simple, but handsome and well-proportioned tower. A Roman Villa, with
a tesselated floor, was discovered at Carisbrooke, near the castle, in 1859
(adm. 6d.).
Another very pleasant excursion may be made to the S. E. to the village
of (3 M.) Arret on, lying in a picturesque valley, the dwelling-place of
Legh Richmond's 'Dairyman's Daughter', whose remains repose in the
churchyard. A walk of '/z hr. from this point will bring us to the summit
of *Arreton Sown, which commands one of the finest and most varied
prospects in the island. To the N.E. the view is terminated by Portsmouth
and Gosport, while to the S. the eye rests on the fertile valley of the
Yar, which separates the central chain of hills from the southern. At the
top are two large barrows, in which some ancient armour has been disco-
vered. —Arreton and Arreton Down may also be conveniently visited from
Ryde or Ventnor, by taking the train to Horringford (p. 72), which is 1 M.
from Arreton.
From Newport to Yarmouth and Freshwater, 12 M., railway
in 35-40 min. (fares 3s., 2s., Is.). The first station isfl'^M.)
Carisbrooke (see above). To tlie right extends Parkhurst Forest. —
5 1 /2M. Calborne is the station for Shalfleet (with a Norman church)
and for the fishing-village of Newtown, with its large salt-works,
on Newtown Bay. —7 M. Ningwood.
9'/2 M. Yarmouth (*6eorge Hotel; Bugle ; King's Head), a small
town in a flat district at the mouth of the Yar (not to he con-
founded with the stream of the same name in the E. part of the is-
land). The church of St. James contains the monument of Sir Ro-
bert Holmes, governor of the island in 1667-92. The Castle was
erected by Henry VIII. Good boating and bathing are enjoyed here.
From Yarmouth to Southampton. When time is limited we may ,

save ourselves the return-journey to Newport by taking one of the

steamers which ply 3-4 times a day from Yarmouth to Lymington (fare
Is. 9d. or Is. 2d.). The passage occupies about '/« hr. From Lymington to
Bishopstoke (Southampton), by train in 1 hr. Passengers may book through
from Yarmouth to London (Waterloo). —Excursion steamers ply from
Yarmouth to Ryde, Cowes, Bournemouth, etc.
12 M. Freshwater, the terminus of the line aad the station for
(1 M.) Freshwater Gate, (2 M.) Totland Bay and (3 M.) Alum
,

Bay, to all of which omnibuses ply in connection with the trains.

Freshwater Gate (*Freshwater Bay Hotel, R. & A. 4s. 6d., D. 5s.,
finely situated; Albion, well spoken of; Temperance Hotel), taking
its name from a cleft in the rocky coast-line, opposite Freshwater
74 Route 10. COWES.

Bay, is now a rising little sea-bathing resort and a good starting-

point for boating expeditions and other excursions. In the neigh-
bourhood are 'Lord Holmes' Parlour and Kitchen and other re-
1

markable caves. Farringford, the marine residence of Lord

Tennyson, the Poet Laureate, lies about 1 M. to the W. The bay
contains two isolated rocks resembling the Needles. Coach to Vent-
nor, see p. 70.
The *Walk along the cliffs from Freshwater Bay to Alum Bay
isone of the most enjoyable excursions in the island. From the
Freshwater Bay Hotel we ascend along the edge of the downs, over-
looking the sea, to (V2 hr.) High Down (485 ft. J, which is marked
by a beacon and affords a splendid *View of the sea to the S., the
Solent and the Hampshire coast to the N, and of the W. part of
the island. Totland Bay (see below) lies below us on the N. Con-
tinuing to follow the edge of the chalk cliffs for 2-2'/2 M. more, we
come in sight of Alum Bay and the Needles. (The best view is
obtained from the fort at the point, but visitors are not always ad-
mitted.) At the point we are about 1 M. from the Needles Hotel
(see below), which lies a little inland from the bay.
In fine weather it is, perhaps, preferable to make the excursion from
Freshwater Bay to Alum Bay by boat, as this affords a better view of the
Needles and the fine cliffs (boat with boatmen 10-15*. or more). The
perpendicular Freshwater Cliffs, 400-500 ft. high, consist of chalk with
clearly defined layers or ribbons of flint. The finest are those of 'Main
Bench, where numerous sea-fowl breed in spring. Before reaching the
Needles we pass the entrance of "Scratchell's Bay, a small but imposing
recess, where the action of the water on the lower strata of the chalk-
cliffs has formed a magnificent natural arch, 200 ft. in height.

*Alum Bay (* Royal Needles Hotel, R.& A. is., luncheon 2s. 6<2.),
so named because alum is found here, is remarkable for the curious
and pleasing effect produced by the vertical stripes of red, yellow,
green, and grey sandstone, contrasting with the white chalk of the
rest of the cliffs. The *Needles aTe three white, pointed rocks of
chalk, resting on dark-coloured bases, and rising abruptly from the
sea to a height of 100 ft. On the outermost is a lighthouse. A
new pier has been built in the bay, and numerous excursion-
steamers call here in summer.
Totland Bay (Totland Bay Hotel), about I1/2 M. to the N. of
Alum Bay, is another charming little watering-place, with a pier
and good boating and bathing. Steamers ply to Lymington, etc.

From Newport toCowes, 4M., railway in 16-20[min. (fares Is.,

9d., 4d.). — The road (4i/M.) passes the Union Workhouse (right)
2
and (left) Albany Barracks and Parkhurst Prison. Those who prefer
it may descend the Medina in a rowing-boat.
West Cowes. —
"Marine; *Gloster Fountain ; Vine; Piek; Globe.
;

— Steamboats to Southampton and to Byde and Portsmouth several times

daily.
West Cowes, a busy little town prettily situated, containing
,

6500 inhab., and possessing the best harbour in the island, is the
 ALDERSHOT. 11. Route. 75

headquarters of the Royal Yacht Squadron the 150 members of ,

which are the owners of craft varying in size from 40 to 500 tons,
and employ 1500 of the best English sailors as crews. Regattas take
place frequently in summer and autumn, the chief one in August.
There is a good bathing-beach to the W. of the pier.
Opposite West Cowes, on the other side of the estuary of the
Medina, which is about V2 M. broad lies the quiet and pleasant
,

little town of East Cowes (Medina Hotel Prince of Wales} steam-

; ;

ferry (V2^0 every few minutes. In the environs are the fine
country-seats of East Cowes Castle and Norris Castle (Duke of Bed-
ford). The grounds of the latter are bounded by those of the royal
marine residence of Osborne, which is beautifully situated and fitted
up with great magnificence (not shown to visitors).
Travellers intending to return to London may now take the steam-
boat from Cowes to Portsmouth (40 min. ; fares 2*. Id. and 1*. 7<f.), whicli
calls at Ryde on its way. The passage along the coast from Cowes to
Eyde is picturesque; the shores are luxuriantly wooded, and good views
are obtained of Norris Castle and Osborne. — Travellers bound for Southamp-
ton may either go direct by steamer (1 hr. ; fares 2s. Id. and Is. Id.) or
to Portsmouth by steamer, and thence by railway. In the former case
they enjoy a pleasant sail up Southampton Water, the mouth of which is
protected by Calthot Castle, one of the forts built by Henry VIII. About
2'/z M. farther up, to the left, lies Hythe (Drummond Arms), and on the
opposite shore is seen Netley Hospital (p. 82; abbey not visible). In mid-
stream lies the guard-ship 'Invincible'.

11. From London to Winchester and Southampton.

New Forest.
Sooth Western Railway from Waterloo to (66V2 M.) Winchester in 13/ 4«
21/2 hrs. (fares 13s. (W., 9s. 8d., 5s. (id.); to (79 M.) Southampton in
SVi-S'A brs. (fares 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. Gd).
From London to (2472 M.) Woking, see R. 9. Beyond Woking
the train passes Woking Convict Prison for invalid prisoners and
the Brookwood Lunatic Asylum (both to the right), and reaches
(27^2 M.) Brookwood. To the left lies Woking Necropolis, an im-
mense cemetery, 2000 acres in extent , to which a special funeral
train runs daily from London (private station in Westminster Bridge
Road). In one corner is a crematorium. —
About Y2 M. to the S.
of Brookwood station is Bisley Common, the new meeting-place of
the National Rifle Association (comp. p. 64).
About IV2 M. beyond Brookwood, on the left (S.), diverges the loop-
line to (7'/2 M.) Aldershot, (IOV2 M.) Farnham, (19 M.) Alton, and (35 M.)
Winchester.
Alieiahot(Royal ; Imperial), now a busy town with 20,000 inhab. (includ-
ing the soldiers), has grown to its present size through the establishment
here in 1854 of a large Military Camp, 9 sq. M. in extent, and capable of
accommodating 20,000 men. The military manoeuvres which take place
here from time to time are on an extensive scale and well worth seeing.
The most commanding point of view is the eminence called Caesar's Camp,
on which stands the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, formerly
on the top of the Green Park Arch in London.
Farnham (Bush, well spoken of; Lion <fc Lamb) is a pleasant little
76 Route 11. BASINGSTOKE. From London

town with 4500 inhab., situated in the midst of a hop-district second in

importance to Kent alone. The Cattle, now the palace of the Bishop of
Winchester, was originally built in the 12th cent., hut dates in its present
form mainly from 1662-84; the Keep is probably of the 13th century,
William Cobbett (d. 1835) was born at Farnham in the 'Jolly Farmers',
Bridge Sq. — About l'/2 M. to the E. of Farnham is Moor Park, where
Swift acted as secretary to Sir William Temple (d. 1699) and made the
acquaintance of 'Stella'. Waverley Abbey, see p. 68.
From Alton (Swan) a visit may be paid to Selborne (p. 66), which lies
"5 M. to the S.E. —
Near (337'2 M.) Alresford is Tichborne House, a name
well known from the notorious law-suit, which is said to have saddled
the estate with a debt of 9O,00OL — 35 M. Winchester, see helow.
The train now passes between the Chobham Ridges on the right
and the Fox Hills on the left, and crosses the Guildford and Read-
ing railway (p. 64). — 33 M. Farnborough (Queen's, at the North
Camp), one of the stations for Aldershot Camp, which begins a
little to the S. of it. To the right lies Farnborough Hill, the
present home of the Empress Eugenie, who has built a chapel (to
the left of the railway) for the remains of her husband and son
(comp. p. 12). About 250 acres of ground in the environs of
Farnborough are occupied by strawberries, cultivated for the London
market. — Near (BQ 1 /} M.) Fleet the line skirts a small lake on ;

the right (3/4 M.) is Elvetham House, where Queen Elizabeth was
entertained in 1591 by the Earl of Hertford. —
39 M. Winchfield,
with a fine church partly Norman, partly Gothic. About 2 M. to
the S.W. (omn.) is Odiham (George), with an old castle where
King David of Scotland was imprisoned after his capture at Neville's
Cross (p. 414). To the N. lies Eversley, the home of Charles Kingsley
(d. 1875) for 33 years.
The line now passes through (41 M.) Hook and the village of
Old Basing, where a battle took place between the Saxons and
Danes in 871. It contains the scanty ruins of Basing House, built
by the first Marquis of Winchester in the reign of Edward VI.,
which resisted the Parliamentary troops for four years and was finally
stormed by Cromwell himself (1645).
48M. Basingstoke (Red Lion; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), with
6680 inhab., is the junction of lines to Salisbury (R. 14) and Read-
ing (p. 106). Close to the station, on the right, is a ruined chapel of
the 16th century. The Parish Church is a Perp. building, restored.
To the N.W. is (6 M.) Strathneldsaye, the seat of the Duke of Wellington,
with the camp-bed and other memorials of the Iron Duke, of whom
a bronze statue has been erected here. His charger 'Copenhagen', which
he rode at the battle of Waterloo, is buried in the garden. —Silcliester,
4 M. to the W. of Strathfieldsaye, is a very ancient place, with interesting
and extensive Roman remains.
The remainder of the route to Winchester traverses the chalk
downs and presents no features of special interest.
66 /2 M. Winchester.
] — Hotels. George, corner of High St. and
Jewry St., well spoken of; "Rotal, St. Peter St., with a garden, quiet;
Black Swan, R. & A. is. dd. ; Eagle, near the S.W. station, unpretending.
Cabs. From either of the stations to must of the hotels 1*.; from
station to station Is. 6<Z.; per hr. 3s., each addit. '/s hr. Is. 3d. Each
article of luggage carried outside 2d.
 to Southampton. WINCHESTER. 11. Route. 77
Railway Stations. South Western Station, at the upper end of the
town Great Wettern Station (for Oxford, London via Beading, etc.), at the
•,

lower end of the town, near the river.

Fishing in the Itchen ; apply to Mr. Chalkley , fishing-tackle maker,
near the Cathedral.
Winchester, a city of great antiquity and the seat of a bishop,
with 19,500 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the slope of a chalk-
hill on the W. bank of the Itchen.
Before the Roman invasions Winchester was known under the name
of Caer Gwent (white castle), which was Latinised as Venta Belgarum, the
Belgae being the British tribe which had its settlement here. In 496 the
Saxong took possession of the town, and named it Winleceatter (ceaster =
castrum). Winchester was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of Wessex,
was converted to Christianity by Birinus, the Apostle of the West of
England, in G35, and was afterwards the seat of government of Alfred the
Great and Canute the Dane. After the Norman Conquest Winchester for
a time rivalled London in commercial importance, but soon lost its pre-
eminence, especially after its visitation by a serious fire in 1141. Down
to the Reformation, however, it maintained a position of great ecclesiasti-
cal dignity. Now-a-days the city has that quiet and venerable appearance
which we are wont to associate with the seat of a cathedral; and the
woollen manufacture for which it was once famous has entirely died out.
See Dean Kitchiri's 'Winchester' ('Historic Towns' series; 1890).
To reach the Cathedral we descend the High Street , with its
curious old pent-house, and turn to the right by a narrow passage
close to the City Cross, a monument of the 15th cent, (restored).
The *Cathedral (daily service at 10 and 4, with fair music),
a stately edifice incorporating every style of English architecture
,

from the Norman to the Perpendicular, was founded by Bp. Walk-

elin in 1079, close to the site of a Saxon church of the 7th century.
The choir and transepts were finished in 1093, the conversion of
the nave from Norman to Perpendicular was begun by Bishop
Edington before 1366, and the whole was completed in 1486. The
builder (or transformer) of by far the greater part of the nave was
Bishop William of Wykeham, the renowned architect, ecclesiastic,
and statesman, who occupied the see from 1366 to 1404. The
church is the longest in England, measuring 560 ft. in all ; the
breadth across the transepts is 208 ft. The arms of the transept are
flanked with aisles, and still retain the form of a pillared basilica
with arcades. The first employment of Pointed architecture is seen
in the addition to the choir on the E. The *W. Facade, with its
spacious portal, was begun in 1350 by Bishop Edington, finished in
the 15th cent., and restored in 1860; the statue of William of Wyke-
ham is modern. The general effect of the exterior is somewhat
heavy and unimposing, and the stunted proportions of the only
tower detract considerably from its dignity. The Dec. and Perp.
work at the E. end is, however, very fine. The Cathedral is dedicated
to SS. Peter and Paul and the Holy Trinity; the choir is also popul-
arly supposed to be dedicated to St. Swithin (Suetonius day, July
;

15th), whose traditionary connection with the weather is ascribed

to the legend that the removal of his body to the shrine prepared for
it was delayed for 40 days by rain.
78 Route 11. WINCHESTER. From London
The Interior of the church is very impressive owing to the beauty of
its proportions, the great length (250 ft.) of the Nave, and the fine groining.
Visitors should notice the remaining traces of Walkelin's Norman nave,
such as the arches in the triforium. The fact that the core of the piers
is also Norman perhaps accounts for their unusual massiveness. One of
the most characteristic features of Winchester is its fine * Chantry Chapels,
most of which were founded by Bishops of Winchester between 1350 and
1486. The most interesting of all is that of Bishop William of Wyheham,
designed by himself (1366-1404), in one of the bays on the 8. side of the
nave ; and the nave also contains that of Bishop Edington (p. 77). On
the wall of the N. aisle, nearly opposite the chantry of William of
Wykeham, is a brass tablet to the memory of Jane Austen (1775-1817),
the novelist. Above it is a curious old epitaph. Also in the N. aisle,
not far off, is the ancient sculptured Font, in black marble, dating from
the 12th century. At the W. end of the N. aisle is a Cantoria, or singing
gallery. Much of the old stained glass was destroyed by the Puritans, but
that in the * W. Window dates in part from 1350.
The Tkansefts are the oldest part of the church as it now stands, and
show the Norman work of Bishop Walkelin almost untouched (1079-1093).
The later Norman work, necessitated by the fall of the tower early in the
12th cent., is easily recognized by its finer jointing. The S. arm con-
tains memorials of Bishop Wilberforce (d. 1873) and of Izaak Walton (d. 1683;
in the Silkstede Chapel), whose memory is indissolubly associated with
the Itchen and other streams of the neighbourhood. The mural paint-
ings in the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, in the N. transept, are curious,
though much damaged by neglect (13th cent.).
The Choir is separated from the nave by an oaken screen, designed
by Sir G. G. Scott. On passing it we are struck with the immense
thickness of the piers supporting the tower, which owe their unusual
solidity to a desire to prevent a repetition of the fate of the first tower,
which fell soon after its erection. Under the tower is the ancient tomb
which is said by a dubious tradition to hold the bones of William Rufus
(d. 1100). The oaken "Stalls of 1296, darkened with age, are richly carved.
The pulpit was presented by Prior Silkstede in 1498, but the bishop's
throne is modern. The painted glass of the ~E. Window dates from
about 1520. Prolonging the choir towards the E. is the Presbytery, con-
taining a fine reredos of the 15th cent, (restored) and an altarpiece (Rais-
ing of Lazarus) by West. The presbytery is enclosed at the sides by
handsome stone screens (1500-26), above which lie six richly coloured
wooden mortuary chests, containing the bones of Ethelwolf, Egbert,
Canute, and other kings, preserved from the old cathedral. The identity
of the different skeletons, however, has long been lost.
Behind the reredos is the Feretory, a raised platform for the shrines of
the patron saints of the cathedral. The E. end of the feretory is adorned
with fine tabernacle-work, and in the middle is the entrance to a vault
called the Holy Hole, probably a receptacle for relics. To the right and
left (N. and S.) of the feretory are the chantries of Bishops Gardiner (1555)
and Fox (1528), and farther to the E. those of Bishop Waynflete (1447-86)
and Cardinal Beaufort (d. 1447). Between the last two is the site of the
once famous Shrine of St. Swithin (p. 77).
The part of the Cathedral to the E. of the feretory, including the aisles,
is mostly in the E.E. style, and the work of Bishop Lucy (1189-1204). To
the E. it terminates in the Lady Chapel, flanked by two smaller ones.
The Lady Chapel, one bay of which is E.E. and the other Perp. (15th cent.),
is adorned with mural paintings ascribed to Flemish or German artists
of the 15th century. The marriage of Queen Mary with Philip of Spain
was celebrated here in 1554, and the chair preserved in the adjoining
chapel to the N. is supposed by some to be that in which she sat during
that ceremony. The statue of Bishop North (d. 1820) in the Lady Chapel
is by Chantrey. The chapel to the S. was fitted up as a chantry by Bishop
Langlon (d. 1501), who is buried here, and that 1o the N., the Chapel
of the Guardian Angels (12 th cent.), contains the monuments of two bishops
and of the Earl of Portland (d. 1634), Lord High Treasurer of Charles I.
 to Southampton. WINCHESTER. 11. Route. 79
In the N. transept is the entrance to the Cbipt, the W. part of which,
recently cleared out, shows Walkelin's original plan and is a fine spe-
cimen of early-Norman substructure. The E. part is the work of Bp.
Lucy (p. 78), and the easternmost bay was added by Prior Silkstede (p. 78).
The Close to the S. of the church , with its smooth turf and
abundant foliage, forms a striking contrast to the grey and venerable
Cathedral. The entrance to the Deanery , which contains some
remains of the old priory , is distinguished by its three pointed
arches of the 13th cent. , and some Norman arches of the old
chapter-house are also visible. The passage between these and the
S. Transept leads to the Library, which contains a fine copy of
the Vulgate and some relics taken from the coffin of "William Eufus.
We quit the Close by a gate in the S. E. corner, pass through
the handsome King's Oate and by St. Swithin's Church and turn ,

to the left into College Street, which soon brings us to the College,
the second lion of Winchester. (We apply for admission at the
porter's lodge at the second gateway to the right ; fee.) 'Win-
chester School , or St. Mary's College which is connected with
,

New College, Oxford, was also built by William of Wykeham in

1373 - 96 and , though extensive new buildings have become
,

necessary, the older parts remain nearly unaltered. It has ranked

for centuries among the leading public schools of England, and is
attended by 400-500 boys.
The parts shown to visitors include two quadrangles, surrounded by
the picturesque old School Buildings; the entrance to the Kitchen, with a
singular picture of a 'Trusty Servant'; the Chapel, containing a carved
oak pulpit from New College, Oxford; the Cloisters, with the names of
Bishop Ken (1646) and other eminent Wykhamists cut in the stone; the
Dining Hall; and the old lavatory, known by the boys as 'MoaV, while
they call the shoe-blacking place Edom' (Ps. lx. 8).
l
— The new buildings,
also in the form of a quadrangle, lie to the W. of the old. —
At the back
are the *.Cricket Fields, prettily situated on the river, and affording a
good view of the College.
If we continue our way along College Street, we reach, after
a short distance, on the opposite side of the street and beyond
the river the ruins of Wolvesey Palace, a Norman structure built
,

by Bishop Henri de Blois in 1138. Here, in 1554, Queen Mary re-

ceived her bridegroom Philip of Spain a short time before the
,

celebration of their marriage in the Cathedral. The present Epis-

copal Palaceis at Farnham (p. 76).
From Wolvesey Palace the visitor may skirt the river to Soke
Bridge at the foot of High St. If time allow, he should cross the
,

bridge and ascend to ('^hr.) the top of St. Giles's Hill, which affords
an admirable *View of the city. —
At one time Winchester is said
to have possessed no fewer than ninety churches. Of the eleven
now in existence the most interesting, after the Cathedral, is St.
John's Church, in St. John St., at the foot of St. Giles's Hill, the
aisles of -which are considerably wider than the nave. The style is
partly Norman, and partly E.E.
At the foot of High St., a little above the bridge, is the Ouild-
hatl, a. modern building by Sir G. G. Scott, containing a small
80 Route 11. WINCHESTER. From London

museum (open on week-days, 10-4). —Ascending to the top of

the High St., passing the City Cross and the Pent House (see p. 77),
we reach the West Gate, a fortified gateway of the 13th century.
— Adjacent (left) is the County Court, with a fine hall, belong-
ing to a castle erected here by William the Conqueror, but afterwards
altered and heightened (13th cent.). On the wall hangs a curious
relic known as 'King Arthur's Round Table', said to date from the 6th
cent, but repainted in the time of Henry VIII. —
King Alfred is said
to be buried in Hyde Abbey, Jewry St., part of which is now a barn.
About 1 M. to the S.W. of the town lies the *Hospital of St. Gross
(adm. for 1-3 pers., It.), which may he reached either through Southgate
Street, or by a path along the bank of the Itchen. This peculiar in-
stitution was founded in 1136 by Bishop Henri de Elois for the mainten-
ance of 13 poor men, unable to work, and for the partial support of
100 others. A remnant of the ancient hospitality is still maintained, any
one who applies at the porter's lodge being entitled to the refreshment
of a horn of ale and a slice of bread, unless the daily quantum has al-
ready been distributed. The 'Church, completed before the year 1200,
and lately restored, is a beautiful example of the transition from the
Norman to the E.E. style of architecture. Among the most interesting
features are the exquisitely delicate late-Norman mouldings, a curious
triple arch at the S. transept (external), and the modern polychrome
painting in the supposed original style. The quadrangle and its surround-
ings also form a most delightful picture. Visitors are conducted to the
Refectory, with its fine open roof, and to the Kitchen. The former con-
tains an ancient triptych, attributed to Durer (Flemish?).
On the opposite bank of the Itchen, not far from the hospital, is "St.
Catherine's Bill crowned by a group of trees and a labyrinth cut in the
,

turf, and affording an admirable view of the ancient town.

From St. Cross we may continue our walk along the Itchen to (2 M.)
the pretty village of Twyford (see below), —
Admirers of the 'Christian
Year' may combine in one excursion from Winchester a visit to (i*jt M.)
Hursley and (5'/2 M.) Olterbourne, livings held by the Rev. John Keble
(d. 1866), who is buried in the churchyard of the former. The church
was rebuilt by him with the profits of the 'Christian Year'. Hursley
House occupies the site of the house of Richard Cromwell, many of whose
family are buried in the church.

Beyond Winchester the Railway continues to descend the

valley of the Itchen. — In the village of Twyford, near (70 M.)
Shawford, Franklin wrote part of his autobiography. 73 M.—
Bishopstoke (Junction Hotel), the junction of lints to Portsmouth
on the left and Salisbury on the right, with Dear's large factory
for food for horses, dogs, and cattle. —
76 M. Swathling 77 M. ;

St. Denys 78 M. Northam.

;

79 M. Southampton. — Hotels. 'South Western Railway Hotel,

a large house at the terminus; Radley's, opposite the station, R. & A.
5s., high charges for porterage of luggage; Matcham's Dolphin, Royal,
Stab, Crown, all in High St. ;Pier, on the Quay. —
•Flower's Temperance,
Queen's Terrace; Goodridge's, Railway, near the station. —Bail. Refresh-
ment Roams.
Cabs. Per mile Is., for each addit. '/« M. 3d.; per 1/2 hr. Is. Gd., 3/4 hr.
2s., 1 hr. 2s. Gd., each addit. 1/4 hr. Gd. With 2 horses Is. Gd., id., 2s.,
2s. Gd., 3s., 8d.
Boat to NetUy Abbey with one man 3s., with two men 4s.; there and
back, including stay of 2 hrs., 7s. By time first hr. 2s., each addit. hr.
:

Is. —
Small boats at the West Quay, without rower, Gd. per hr.
 ,

to Southampton. SOUTHAMPTON. 11. Route. 81

Tramway from the Terminus through High St. and Above Bar to the
Park, and thence on the left to Shirley and on the right to Portswood
(2d. or 3d.). —
Omnibuses from the Bar Gate to Bitterne, Tolton, etc.
Steamers to the Channel Islands, see R. 12; to the Isle of Wight, see
R. 10. Steamers also run from Southampton to Hi/the, Portsmouth, Havre,
Cherbourg, and St. Malo; and it is the starting-point of the mail-packets
to the West Indies and the Cape of Good Hope. The steamers of the North
German Lloyd also call here on their way to and from America (for New
York on Thurs. & Sun.).
Post and Telegraph Office, Oxford St., close to the Railway Terminus.
Swimming Baths on the W. shore, at the foot of Manchester St.
Railway Stations. The Terminus or Socks Station is near the Docks
and about '/tM. from the High St.; and there are suburban stations at
Southampton West, Northam, and St. Denys.
Southampton, the second town of Hampshire, with 60,235 inhab.
is beautifully situated on Southampton Water, between two rivers
flowing into that arm of the sea, the Itchen on the E. , and the Test or
Anton on the W. The town was already in existence at the time of
the Saxons, and it is said that here Canute the Dane gave the
famous rebuke to his flattering courtiers. After the Conquest
the town carried on a considerable traffic with Venice, Bordeaux,
and Bayonne. In 1189 Southampton was the place of embarkation
of the Crusaders under Richard Coeur-de-Lion ; and later, in 1345
and 1415 respectively, it saw the armies of Edward III. and
Henry V. take ship for the invasion of France. Philip of Spain,
consort of Queen Mary, landed here in 1554, and Charles I. resided
here for a considerable time.
The main body of the Pilgrim Fathers, who had been living in Hol-
land, left Delfthaven, in July, 1620, in the 'Speedwell', which brought
them to Southampton. Here they found the 'Mayflower', a ship hired
for their voyage, and a small body of co-religionists from London. The
two ships proceeded to Plymouth, where the 'Speedwell' was pronounced
unseaworthy, and the whole of the voyagers were crowded into the
'Mayflower'. Comp. p. 139.
Southampton owes its importance to its admirably-sheltered
harbour, and to the phenomenon of double tides, which prolong
high water for two hours. The Bocks, including four large dry
docks two tidal basins (16 & 18 acres in area), and a closed dock,
often contain several steamers of very large size (2000-4000 tons
burden), the fitting up and arrangements of which will repay a
thorough inspection. About 2000 vessels, with an aggregate tonnage
of two millions, enter the port yearly (steamers, see above).
The chief relic of the ancient fortifications of the town is the
Bar Gate in the High Street, erected in the 11th cent, as the N.
city gate, and lately restored, but still exhibiting the original
Norman arch. The part above the archway is used as the Guildhall.
Here are preserved the rude paintings of Sir Bevis of Southampton
and the giant Ascupart, whom he overcame in single combat, for-
merly on the buttresses of the gate. (*View of the town from the
roof.) The South Gate and the West Gate also formed part of the
old circumvallation. The former, with a tower once used as a
prison, is near the *Town or Victoria Pier (toll Id.). Among the
Ragnuggp's ftrpat. Rrjjtajn,, 2 nA Edit. 6
82 Route 11. SOUTHAMPTON. From London

guns of the Saluting Battery on the adjoining Platform, or Parade,

is one dating from 1542. Adjacent is a Statue of Prince Albert.
Considerahle remains of the old walls and towers still exist on the
W. side of the town. The old castle has, however, been destroyed,
except part of the foundations. In Queen's Park is a monument to
Oen. Gordon.
The picturesque High Street, with many old houses, runs to the
N. from the Town Pier. The Church of St. Michael (St. Michael's
Square, to the W. of the High Street) contains a good *Font (12th
cent.). In Winkle Street, near the quay, is the small hospital
called Domus Dei, or God's House, erected in the 12th cent., and
little altered in appearance since then the *Chapel is now used for
;

religious services by the French residents of Southampton. A tablet

commemorates the fact that the Earl of Cambridge, Lord Scrope,
and Sir Thomas Grey, who were executed for a conspiracy against
the life of Henry V. in 1415, are interred here. The Hartley In-
stitution, founded for educational and literary purposes, in the
High Street, has an imposing facade in the Italian style. It contains
a small picture-gallery and museum. — Near the West Shore, in
Blue Anchor Lane, to the W. of the High St., are some remains of
an ancient Norman dwelling known as King John's House.
The Ordnance Survey fy Map Office, a Government establish-
ment of great interest and importance, has its seat at Southampton,
in a large building on the W. side of the prolongation of the High
Street towards the N. About 400 men are employed in it.
At the end of Above Bar St. is the Park, containing statues of
Dr. Watts (1674-1748), who was a native of Southampton, and Lord
Palmerston (d. 1865). Farther on are Southampton Common and
Bevois Mount, the latter (now built over) taking its name from Sir
Bevis of Southampton, the legendary hero of the town.
The Environs afford many interesting walks. About 2>/2 M. to the
N. lies the prettily-situated Priory of St. Denys, of which the remains are
now very scanty. On the other side of the Itchen (to reach which we
must return from the Priory to the bridge) stands Bitterne, the Clausen-
tvm of the Romans, where, in the grounds round Bitterne Manor, some
Roman remains —
still exist. To the S.E. lies (3 M.) '-Netley Abbey (adm.
2cJ.),a Cistercian monastery founded by Henry III. in the 13th cent., and
situated in a spot of singular loveliness. Interesting and picturesque
remains of the E.E. church and other buildings. [The excursion to the
abbey may be made by steamer or small boat (p. 80) the whole way ; by
railway (to within 1 M.) in 18-27 min. ; by floating-bridge across the Itchen,
near the docks, to Woolston, in 5 min., and thence by railway, in 8-10 min.,
or on foot; or, lastly, by carriage (fare 5-7s.).] A mile to the S. lies the
large Netley Military Hospital, with accommodation for upwards of 1000
patients.
"Beaulieu Abbey (p. 84) may be reached directly from Southampton by
crossing Southampton Water by steamer (6<Z.) to (20 min.) Hythe (Drum-
mond Arms), and walking thence to (4'/2 M.) the Abbey. The Abbey lies
on the borders of the New Forest (see p. 83), and may also be easily
visited from Brockenhurst or Lyndhurst (p. 83).
From Southampton to Salisbury, 28'/2 M., railway in l-l'/4 hr. (fares
5s., 3*. Gd., 2s. bd.). — This line diverges at (0 M.) Bishopstoke (p. 80)
from the main line to Winchester and London. —13 M. Romsey (White
 to Southampton. NEW FOREST. 11. Route. 83
Horse; Dolphin), the junction of a line to Andover (p. 98). The prettily
situated little town, with a Norman *Priory Church, lies about 2 l
J2 M.
from the station. In the neighbourhood is Broadlands, the country-seat
of Lord Palmerston (d. 1865). — 28'/2 M. Salisbury, see p. 99.
From Southampton to Portsmouth, see p. 58.

To the S.W. of Southampton, stretching westwards from South-

ampton Water lies the so-called *New Forest an ancient royal
,
,

hunting demesne, containing some of the most characteristic wood-

land scenery in England. The extent of the district included
in the name is about 140 square miles, but little more than two-
thirds of this now belongs to the crown. Many of the oaks and
other trees are very fine, but there are also large tracts of heath
and cujtivated land the comparative absence of water will,
;

however, strike most visitors as a drawback. The deer with

which the Forest was formerly stocked have almost entirely dis-
appeared, but it contains large numbers of hogs and small, rough-
looking horses. The naturalist will also find much to interest him
in its fauna and flora, and for entomologists it is a particularly
happy hunting-ground. The most convenient centre from which
to explore the Forest is Lyndhurst (see below), but the pedestrian
may also fix Ms
headquarters at Brockenhurst (p. 95).
Lyndhurst (*Crown, R. & A. 4s. , an unpretending country
hotel, often full in summer numerous lodgings), the capital of
;

the New Forest, is a pleasantly situated village, 1 l 2 M. from

/
Lyndhurst Road Station (p. 95 omn. several times a day, Is inside,
;

6<)!. outside). The church, rebuilt in 1863, contains a fine fresco

of the 'Ten Virgins' by Sir Fred. Leighton (E. wall) and a piece of
very realistic sculpture by Cockerell (under the tower). Near the
church is the Queen's House, the residence of the Deputy Surveyor
of the Forest ; in the Verderers' Hall (open to visitors) is an old
stirrup, which one absurd tradition calls that of William Rufus,
while another relates that dogs small enough to pass through it were
exempt from the 'expeditation', or removal of the middle claw,
formerly inflicted on dogs of private persons living in the Forest.
The pedestrian alone can thoroughly explore the New Forest, but
the hurried traveller may see its chief beauties in the course of a single
day's drive (or walk) from Lyndhurst by taking the following round of
about 15 M. (one-horse carr. about 15s. and gratuity). — We first drive
to the N. to (2 3/4 M.) Minstead (Trusty Servant Inn), stopping on the
way to visit (1 M.) the Kennels of the New Forest Hunt (fee to keeper).
For Minstead we turn to the left about '/3 M. farther on, the road in a
straight direction leading to (2 M.) Cadnam. Beyond Minstead we pass
between Castle Malwood on the left and Castle Malwood Lodge (Sir Wm.
Vernon Harcourt) on the right, and after about 1 M. turn to the left and
follow the road crossing the high-lying Stoney Cross Plain. In the pretty
wooded valley below us to the right is the Rufus Stone, erected last
century by the Earl of Delaware, a descendant of the founder of the State
of Delaware, on the supposed spot of the death of the king (see in-
scription). [We may send the carriage on to the (1 M.) Stoney Cross Inn,
(Compton Arms), while we make the short digression to the monument.]
At Stoney Cross we bend to the left and begin our homeward journey by
making for (3>/2 M.) "Boldreaood, where we inspect the 'King' and 'Queen'
6*
84 Route 12. CHANNEL ISLANDS. Plan of Tour.

oaks and other magnificent trees. About IV2 M. farther on is the "Mark
Ash Wood, an imposing forest sanctuary with hundreds of noble beeches.
We then proceed by a new road through Knight Wood, with its famous
oak (about 20 ft. in girth), to the (2 M.) main road, and then follow the
latter to the N. E. (left) to (l l /2 M.) Batik, where the red house of Miss
Braddon (Mrs. Maxwell) is conspicuous on the hill to the right. Thence
to Lyndhurst, 1 M. —
Walkers may shorten some of the above distances
by footpaths. A map of the New Forest from the Ordnance Survey (1 inch
to the mile) may be obtained at Southampton or Lyndhurst for Gd.
By the direct road Beaulieu Abbey (see p. 82) is 7 M. from Lynd-
hurst, but a pleasant detour may be made via Brockenhurst (p. 95), which
lies 4 M. to the S. of Lyndhurst and 6 M. to the W. of the abbey. —
Beaulieu, pronounced Bewley (Montagu Arms), is picturesquely situated at
the head of Beaulieu Creek, where the little river Exe flows into it. The
Cistercian abbey of Beaulieu was founded by King John in 1204, and
possessed the privilege of a sanctuary down to the dissolution of the
monasteries. Margaret of Anjou and her son Prince Edward found
shelter here shortly before the battle of Tewkesbury, so fatal to the red
rose of Lancaster. Passing under an ivy-clad portal, we reach the Abbot's
House, now used as a residence by Baron Montagu. The "Church of
the village, in the E. E. style, was the refectory of the Abbey. On the
E. wall is a curious monument with an inscription in the form of an
acrostic, the name being formed by the initial letters of the lines.

12. The Channel Islands.

The Channel Islands are usually visited by steamboat from South-
ampton or Weymouth, as mentioned below; but as the hours aresome-
times changed, the traveller should consult the railway and steamboat
time-tables. Steamers also ply from Plymouth. In all cases the sea-passage
is frequently lengthened through fog.
1. Fkom Southampton (p. 80). Mail-steamers ply daily (except Sun.)
from Southampton to (8 hrs.) Guernsey and (10 hrs.) jersey, usually
starting at midnight (Sat. at 10.30 p.m., for Jersey only). They sail in
connection with the London & South Western Railway, the mail-trains of
which leave London (Waterloo) at 9.45 p.m. (Sat. 7.45 p.m.) and run along-
side the boats. Through-fares from London 33«., 28s., 25s. return-tickets,
;

available for one month, 48s., 38s., 30s.; 2nd and 3rd class passengers may
travel in the saloon for 5s. extra. Fares from Southampton 20«., 14s.;
return 33*., 23s.
2. Fkom Weymouth (p. 98). Steamers daily (except Mon. ; in con-
nection with the trains of the Great Western Railway ; shortest sea-passage),
starting at 2.15 a.m., and reaching Guernsey in i'/z, and Jersey in 6 3/4 hrs.
Fares the same as the above. Travellers from London (Paddington) leave
at 9.15 p.m., so that the whole journey occupies 9'/2-ll 3/4 hrs.
3. Fkom Plymouth (Sutton Pool ; p. 139). Steamers start for the Chan-
nel Islands every Mon. and Thurs. at 8 p.m. ; fares to Guernsey 16s., 12s.,
9s. ; return 27s. 6d., 20s., 15s. ; to Jersey 18s., 14s., 10s. ; return 30s., 22s., 16s.
September is the best month for a visit to the Channel Islands.
Few travellers will care to make this trip unless they can spend a week
at least among the Islands, but a fortnight, a month, or more may be
pleasantly passed in exploring them. The following Plan fok a Week's
Tour will be found convenient. 1st Day St. Peter Port , in Guernsey,
:

and excursion to St. Sampson, Bordeaux Harbour, and VAncresse Bay. —

2nd Day: From St. Peter Port to Moulin Euet, the Creux Mahie, lAhou
Island, and other points on the S. and S.W. coast of Guernsey. — 3rd
& 4th Days: Visits to Alderney and to Sark (note the days on which
steamers ply to these islands, p. 89). — 5th Day: From Guernsey to Jersey.
St. Helier's. Excursion to Gorey and Mt. Orgueil. — 6th Day: From St.
llelier's to St. Aubin's, St. Brelade's Bay, the Corbiire, the Etac, the Greve
au Lancon, the Greve au Lecq, and back through the interior of the island.
— 7th Day: Excursion from St. Helier's to Bouley Bay and the N. Coast.
— The only adeciuatu method of exploring these Islands is on foot. But
 —

GUERNSEY
»<fe* Eoffeis SoquzauEbrd*
ZaMlin

'Jfommet

" Creridum

Castle Comet'

W\£peT iDe"bes ,|
>Pog'Esrta.b t Leipsk
>WK)
00.000 i v i EJometces
 History. CHANNEL ISLANDS. 12. Route. 85
Excuksion-Bbakes (fare 2*. 6tf.), plying daily (including Sun.) from St.
Peter Port in Guernsey and from St. Helier's in Jersey, afford a convenient
means of visiting the principal points of interest, which, in the case of
each island, are included in the course of three drives. Programmes of
the routes may be obtained at the livery-stables or from the guides that
accompany the cars. Carriages, 20-25*. per day.
Jersey and Guernsey have each a local copper coinage, exactly corre-
sponding to British pence and half-pence. With this exception British
money alone is legally current in Jersey, but both in that island, and to
a greater extent in Guernsey and Alderney, French gold and silver coins
and local 11. notes are also in circulation. In many shops in Guernsey
a premium of Is. per U. is given for British money. The custom-dues
are light. Tobacco, cigars, and tea are cheap, so are the inferior spirits
and cordials used in the Islands. High-class wines and spirits are,
however, little cheaper than in England, and provisions generally are
quite as dear.
Those who desire a longer account of the Islands are referred to the
special histories by Falle, Duncan, Tupper, and Hoikins, to the account of
Inglis, and to 'The Channel Islands', by Ansted and Latham. Victor
Hugo' i 'Toilers of the Sea' should be read by visitors to Guernsey; Miss
Sesba Strettorfs 'The Doctor's Dilemma' by visitors to Saris.
The group usually known as the Channel Islands consists of
Jersey, Ouernsey, Alderney, and Sark, together with a number of
islets and rocks. Their joint area amounts to about 75 sq. M.,
and in 1881 they contained 87,731 inhabitants. Geographically
they belong to France, lying in the bay of St. Malo, within a distance
of 10-30 M. from the coast of Normandy, while Alderney, the most
northerly of the group, is fully 50 M. from England. They have,
however, belonged to England for seven centuries, being a remnant
of its Norman possessions lost in 1204. The beautiful scenery of
the Islands comprises views of wild grandeur and pleasing rural
landscapes within a very limited space. The rocky coasts of the larger
islands, indeed, vie with the finest scenery of the kind in Great
Britain. The strategic position of the Islands is so important that
the British government has spent vast sums on their defences. St.
Peter Port, St. Helier's, and other points are defended by strong
forts ; while the numerous martello-towers, watch-houses, etc. —
now left to decay — are relics of an obsolete system of defence.
The good roads in the larger islands are also military works.
History. The early history of the Islands is wrapped in obscurity.
The original inhabitants who have left traces of their presence in the
,

cromlechs were probably of Celtic (Breton) race. The Roman occupa-

,

tion of Gaul extended to these islands , and Jersey is mentioned under

the name of Caesarea in the Itinerary of Antonine. Christianity seems
to have been introduced in the 6th cent, by two missionaries from the
Continent, whose names have been perpetuated in St. Helier's, in Jersey,
and St. Sampson, in Guernsey. At a later date they were occupied by
Rollo and his Northmen, and they became part of the duchy of Normandy
in 932. Under the first four Norman kings of England the Islands were alter-
nately under English and Norman rule, but since the accession of Henry II.
(1154) they have been permanently united with England. They remained,
however, under the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the Bishop of Coutances
down to the Reformation , when they were annexed to the see of Win-
chester. King John is said to have granted a charter to Guernsey, and
it seems at least certain that the Islands have enjoyed a distinct political
existence since his reign. In the Civil War Jersey espoused the cause of
the King, and Guernsey that of the Parliament, a divergence of which
 ;

86 Route 12. CHANNEL ISLANDS. Language.

traces are still noticeable. During the French and American wars the is-
landers reaped a rich harvest by privateering and smuggling. Since then
their legitimate trade, and with it their prosperity, has steadily increased.
The Geological Formation of the Islands is almost entirely granitic,
stratified rocks occurring only in Jersey and Alderney. The granite is
generally of the syenite variety, and is much quarried for building pur-
poses. The coasts are generally very rugged, forming numerous bold
headlands and capacious bays. The Islands contain no hills of great ele-
vation, the highest being about 365 ft. (in Sark). Jersey is well wooded.
The Climate is very mild and equable , the mean annual temperature
being about 51° Fahr. , and is admirably adapted for persons with
weak chests. The rain-fall, amounting to 30-35 inches, is rather high,
but the rapid evaporation prevents undue humidity. Snow and frost
are rare. The so-called 'Summer of St. Martin', resembling the Indian
Summer of America, usually sets in about the middle of October.
The Soil is fertile, producing good crops of fruit, wheat, and turnips
and in Jersey potatoes are extensively cultivated for exportation. Large
quantities of grapes and tomatoes, ripened under glass but generally
without artificial heat, are exported from Guernsey. Figs, medlars, etc.
also reach maturity in the open air; and American aloes, palms, mag-
nolias, and similar plants flourish. The chief manure used is Vraic, or
sea-weed, the regular gathering of which forms one of the most character-
istic sights in the Islands. The small and finely-shaped cattle peculiar
to the Channel Islands are widely known and highly prized under the
name of Alderneys; they are remarkable for the quantity and quality of
the milk they yield, and make dairy-farming a very profitable pursuit.
The chief varieties of fish are the turbot, mullet, John Dory, lobsters,
crabs, conger-eels, oysters, and a kind of sand-eel called the 'lancoiC.
The vegetation of the Islands is very rich and varied, and the naturalist
will also find much to interest him in the birds of Guernsey and the
zoophytes of Sark (p. 91).
The vernacular Language is the old Norman French, varying consid-
erably in the different islands t ; and commoner in Guernsey than in Jersey.
English, however, is very generally spoken in the towns, where there is
a large admixture of English residents attracted by the climate and
scenery. French is the official language of the courts. The inhabitants
have preserved many of their old laws and customs, and are in several
respects different both from their English and their French neighbours.
In matters of government the Islands form two divisions or bailiwicks,
one consisting of Jersey alone, the other of Guernsey and the smaller
1
islands. Freeman styles them 'distinct commonwealths Each bailiwick
.

is presided over by a lieutenant-governor and a bailiff, or judge, appointed

by the Crown and assisted by a 'States Assembly'. The latter body in-
cludes the 'jurats' (see below), the rectors of the parishes, and a number
of elected deputies. Judicial affairs are managed by a Royal Court, con-
sisting of the bailiff and twelve 'jurats', or magistrates. The laws relating
to property are very peculiar, those of succession being specially elaborate.
All male inhabitants are bound to serve in the local militia.
In approaching the Channel Islands from Southampton or Wey-
mouth, the steamer first comes in sight of the dangerous rocks called
the Casquets, where the only son of Henry I. perished hy shipwreck
in 1120 tt, and where the Victory, a man-of-war, was lost with 1100
men in 1744. They are now marked by a triple flashing light.
+ Students of the patois will find excellent material in the poems and
texts published in the Guille-Alles Library Series, edited by J. L. Pitts,
with English translations and notes (Bichard, Guernsey).
tt Such is the tradition, but as a matter of fact the catastrophe seems
to have taken place upon Les Caltes Razes reef near Barfleur. William of
Malmesbury, writing in the year of the accident, says: 'the king's son set sail
from Barfleur and the ship was driven on a rock not far from the shore\
 Guernsey. CHANNEL ISLANDS. 12. Route. 87

Alilerney (p. 89) lies about 8 M. to the E. The first stopping-place

is St. Peter Port, the capital of Guernsey, where cabs and porters
await the arrival of the steamer.
Guernsey ('green isle' ; Latin, Sarniaj, the second in size of
the Channel Islands, is triangular in form, and measures Q 1 /^ M.
in length from S.E. to N.W. and about 6 M. in breadth at its
widest part. The S. coast consists of a bold and almost uninter-
rupted cliff, rising perpendicularly to a height of 270 ft., from
which the land slopes gradually down to the flat beach on the N.
The climate of Guernsey is one of the most equable in Europe, the
summer being cool and the winter mild, and hence it is the chief
resort of the invalid visitors to the Channel Islands. The coast-
scenery is finer than that of Jersey, but the interior is thinly wooded
and less attractive. Pop. (1881) 32,659.
St. Peter Port. — Hotels. 'Old Government House, on the hill, R.
from 2*. 6d., 'pens'. 8*. 6<J.-10«. "Royal, facing the sea, 'pens'. 8». Gd. ;
;

Carlton or Plaiderie, Pollet Str., R. & A. from 2s., 'pens'. 7*. ; Victoria,
High St., with windows on the Esplanade, commercial, with baths, 'pens'.
7-8s. ; Channel Islands Hotel, facing the sea; Ceown, facing the har-
bour, plain, 'pens'. 5«. —Numerous private lodgings.
Cab from the pier to the hotels 2s.; Porter from pier 6<J.
Excursion-Cars, see p. 85. —Carriage, 20s. per day.
Boats. Small rowing-boats, 6d. per hour. Sailing-boat, with man, to
Herm 10*. ; to Sark (l /z hr. with good wind), 20s.
l

Bathing Places, on the S. side of the bay; adm. 3d. Public Bathing
Places adjoining.
St. Peter Port, a town of 16, 500 inhab. , is picturesquely situated
on a rising ground in a shallow bay on the E. side. The old town
next to the sea is somewhat poorly built, though quaint and pictur-
esque, but the modern quarters beyond and on each side contain
numerous substantial edifices. At the S. end of the broad Esplanade
which skirts the harbour is the Gothic Town Church (St. Peter s),
perhaps the most important specimen of mediaeval architecture
(early 14th cent.) in the Islands, lately restored and decorated.
Behind the church is the commodious Market, 200 ft. in length,
where fine displays of fish, flowers, and vegetables are usually to be
seen. The arcades to the right are known as the French Market, be-
cause the fruit and vegetables sold there come chiefly from France.
At the E. end of the latter is the entrance to the Guille-Alles Library
and Reading Room, founded by two natives of the town (open daily,
except Sun., 10-9; tourists are invited to use the place without
charge). From the S. side of the church the steep Cornet St. ascends
to Hauteville St., No 38 in which is *Hauteville House, a large house
of gloomy exterior, the former residence of Victor Hugo, whose
'Toilers of the Sea' has its scene in Guernsey. The house (shown
daily; small fee) contains numerous interesting memorials of the
poet. The glass-covered room at the top, the floor of which is also
a massive slab of glass, admitting light to the house below, was
Hugo's study, and commands a beautiful view of the port and neigh-
bouring islands.
88 Route r.>. GUERNSEY. The Channel

From the N. or White Rock Pier, at which the steamers lie, the
Avenue St. Julien ascends to the fashionable quarter of the town,
near Cambridge Park, at one end of which is Castle Cary, the resi-
dence of several of the governors, and conspicuous from the sea.
Near the other end is the Candie Library, for which visitors may
obtain a ticket on written application. Farther S. is the prominent
Victoria Tower (view; key at the Militia Arsenal opposite;
small
fee), built to commemorate the visit of Queen
Victoria and Prince
Albert in 1846. Still farther to the S. are the Orange Club (visitors
admitted on introduction) and the large but unattractive building
of Elizabeth College. In Manor St. is the Royal
Court House, where
the States meet, with several portraits.
On a rocky islet in the harbour, connected with the shore by a
long breakwater, rises Castle Cornet (no admission), the old re-
sidence of the governor, and formerly considered a strong fortress.
Part of it is said to be of Roman workmanship. In 1672 it was
blown up by an explosion of gunpowder. The infant daughter of
the governor, Viscount Hatton, was discovered next day
unhurt and
asleep amid the ruins, and lived to be the Countess of Winchelsea
and mother of 30 children. Farther to the S., on the cliff overlook-
ing the bathing-places (p. 87), is Fort George, one of the strongest
fortresses in the Islands.
The chief attraction of Guernsey consists in the coast-scenery on
the S.E. and S. There aTe inns at various points of the coast, but
the best plan is to fix our headquarters at St. Peter Port.
About I1/2 M. to the S. of St. Peter Port is Fermain Bay, with a
sandy beach backed by walls of rock. On the height, 2 M. to the
i/

high (key cottage to the

S., rises the Boyle Column, 150 ft. at first

W.), erected in honour of Sir John Doyle, a former governor of

the island, and commanding an extensive view. The view
from
quite as
the promontory of Jerbourg, 1/2 M. to the S., is, however,
flue. *Moulin Huet Bay, to the "W. of the point, and 21/2
M. from
St. is one of the finest spots in Guernsey.
Peter Port, The cliffs
here, 200-300 ft. in height, are very imposing. Farther on is the
charming Saints' Bay. Round the next point is Icart Bay, with the
picturesque cove of Petit Bot (Rfmts.) in its N.W. angle. The most
interesting points farther on are the Gouffre (Hotel), a kind of rocky
cauldron at the mouth of a small gorge, 41/2 M. from the harbour;
inter-
the Ccrbiere (5 M.), a headland remarkable for the green veins
secting its pink and gray granite; and the Creux Mahie (6V2 M.),
a cavern 200 long, accessible by a steep and difficult descent
ft.

from the cliffs above. The points from Fermain Bay to the Gouffre
may be visited in the course of a fatiguing but interesting walk
(2-3 hrs.) along a narrow path skirting the slopes and tops of the
cliffs.

The church of St. Martin, 2'/2 M. to the S.W. of St. Peter

Apolline, near St.
Port, has a pretty porch ; and the Chapel of St.
 Islands. ALDERNEY. 12. Route. 89

Saviour's, 4 M. to the W., is a curious example of very early archi-

tecture (ascribed to the 5th cent.).
At the S."W. angle of the island are (71/2 M. from St. Peter Port)
Pleinmont Point and Caves, and off the coast the Hanois Rocks and
lighthouse. The deserted -watch- house on the cliff, above the Oull
Rock (echo), is identified with the 'Haunted House' in the 'Toilers
of the Sea'. A
good road skirts the low N. W. coast, with its pictur-
esque wide bays, defended by forts and batteries. Near the village of
L'Eree (Inn) is a well-preserved dolmen, known as the Creux des
Fees. Off the coast here is the small island of Lihou, with some
picturesque rocks, once the seat of an old priory (12th cent.).
Omnibuses (2d.) run to the N. from St. Peter Port to St. Samp-
son, the second town of the island, with important quarries of blue
granite, which is largely About halfway we
exported to London.
pass, Y2 M to the left, Ivy Castle, a picturesqueNorman ruin; and
a little farther on an Obelisk in memory of Admiral Lord Saumarez
(1757-1836), a native of St. Peter Port. Beyond St. Sampson is
Vale Castle, or St. Michael's Castle, above the small bay known as
Bordeaux Harbour, noted for its fine zoophytes. A pleasant walk
may be taken thence to L'Ancresse Bay and Common (with nu-
merous Celtic remains), at the N. extremity of the island, return-
ing to St. Peter Port by Vale Church (1117) and 'Doyle's Road'.
About 3 M. to the E. of Guernsey lie the islets of Herm and Jethou
(occasional excursion-steamers ; boat, see p. 87), both overrun by immense
numbers of rabbits. Herm possesses a small 'creux' like that in Sark
(p. 91); but the only part of the island now open to visitors is the 'Shell-
beach 1 , one of the happiest hunting-grounds for the conchologist in Great
Britain. The channels to the E. and W. of these islets are known as the
Great and Little Russel.
The islands of Alderney and Sark should be visited from Guern-
sey before we go on to Jersey.
Steamers leave St Peter Port for Alderney and Cherbourg on Tues.,
Thurs., and Sat. at 9 or 9.30 a.m., returning on Wed., Thurs., and Sat.
or Sun. (fares to Alderney 4s. ; to Cherbourg 8s. and 12*., return, avail-
able for a month, 12s. and 16s.); for Sark, several times weekly (return-
fare 2s.) ; for Granville on Mon. (fare 8s.); for St. Malo on Tues. (fare 8s.).
The above data refer to the summer months. —Steamers from Guernsey
to Jersey, see p. 84 (fares 6s., 3s. 6<2.).

Alderney (French Aurigny, Latin Aurinid) the third in size

,

of the Channel Islands lies 20 M. to theN. of Guernsey, and is 4 M.

,

in length and IV2 M. in breadth. In 1881 it contained 2039 in-

habitants, most of whom are English. Of great military importance,
it is defended by a series of strong forts and batteries, the most
important being Fort Albert, on the N.side, the guns of which com-
mand the harbour of Braye, where the steamer lands its passen-
gers. The costly but ill-designed breakwater is often damaged
by the violence of the sea. About 1 M. from the pier, in the centre
of the island, is the small town of St. Anne (Scott's Hotel, 'pens'.
8s. Gd.; several small Inns ; lodgings), with a new church in the
E.E. style, designed by Sir G. G. Scott, and erected to the memory
 ,

90 Route 1-2. SARK. The Channel

of John Le Mesurier, the last of the hereditary governors. As in

Guernsey, the S. and S.E. coast of Alderney consists of a range of
almost perpendicular cliffs, from the top of which the land slopes
gradually down to the flat but rocky shore on the N. The scenery
of the granite and porphyry cliffs is very grand and varied, but it
is generally difficult to reach the beach at their base either by land
or water. Among the finest points are the Lovers Chair and the
Hanging Rock (Roche Pendante), the latter a curious isolated col-
umn of sandstone, 60 ft. high. The geological veinings of the rocks
are often singular. Alderney is separated from the islet of Burhou
by the channel called The Swinge, and from Normandy by the Race
of Alderney, 7 M. wide, which is very dangerous in rough weather.
Through this channel the remnant of the French fleet escaped after
the Battle of La Hogue in 1693.
Sark (Dixcart Hotel, 7s. 6d. per day, luncheon 2s.; Victoria, 6s.
per day ; Royal), also called Serk or Sercq, 3V2 M. long and l 3 / 4 M.
wide in the middle, with 578 inhab. (in 1881), lies 6 M. to the E.
of Guernsey. A visit to this most picturesque island should on no
account be omitted. Those who devote to it only the interval be-
tween the arrival and departure of the steamer from Guernsey should
visit the Coupee, the Gouliot Oaves (at low water), Dixcart Bay
(lunching at Dixcart Hotel), the Creux Derrible, and, if time and
energy permit, the Seigneurie.
The steamer which rounds the S. end of Sark in going, the N.
end in returning, lands passengers at the picturesque Creux Har-
bour on the W. side, to the N. of the Buron Islets, whence a
,

tunnel leads through the high cliffs to the interior of the island
(boat from the steamer at low water 5d. each). The road from the
harbour ascends to the Victoria Hotel. Keeping straight on past
the hotel, we pass through a gate into a pretty avenue of eluis, at
the end of which, near the school, we bear to the left. A few
yards farther on we turn to the right, and passing a conspicuous
windmill, reach the hamlet of Vaurocque. Hence the main road leads
to the left (S.) direct to (40 min. from the harbour) the *Coupee^
a natural causeway, 100 yds. long and only from 5 to 8 ft. broad,
with a nearly vertical descent of 290 ft. on one side, uniting theN.
and S. parts of the island, known as Great and Little Sark. A little
beyond the Coupe'e a faintly-marked path leads off to the left, across
the common, to the curious 'creux', called the Pot (steep and
difficult descent). We may follow the cliffs to the S. end of Little
Sark, where there are some abandoned silver-mines, returning by
the road. — The road leading due W. from Vaurocque (see above)
soon forks, near a farm. The path to the right (pass through the

t An amusing story is told of an inhabitant of Little Sark, who, on

returning home in the evening, used to judge of his ability to cross the
Coupe'e by walking along a dismounted cannon by the side of the path.
If his potations had in any degree impaired his equilibrium, he judged
it safer to lie down and sleep off the effects before 'trying the pass'.
 Islands. JERSEY. 12. Route. 91

gate, skirt the wall, and bear to the right at the ruined cottage)
leads to the Gouliot Caves, -which are extraordinarily rich in bril-
liantly coloured zoophytes. The final descent to the Caves, access-
ible only at low water, requires caution. Opposite lies Brecqhou
or He des Marchands, separated from Sark by a narrow channel not-
ed for its irregular and powerful currents. A frigate is said once
to have safely navigated the channel, which it had entered through
an error. The path to the lett at the farm (see above) leads past a
Monument to Mr. F. Pilcher and others, drowned off the~coast in
1862, to the fisherman's port of Havre Oosselin, where a ladder
affords the only means of embarking or disembarking. —A road
diverging to the left (sign -post) from that between Vaurocque
and the Coupee leads to the prettily situated Dixcart Hotel, beneath
which is the charming Dixcart Bay. Farther to the N. is Derrible
Bay, with the *Creux Derrible, a natural shaft or funnel in the cliff,
nearly 180 ft. high, the bottom of which may be entered at low
water. Thence we return to the Victoria Hotel. — The Seigneurie,
or manor of the 'Lord of Sark', is reached by the road running N.
from the W. end of the avenue of elms (p. 90). The well-kept
grounds are open to the public on Mon. and Thurs. the house oc-
;

cupies the site of a church founded by St. Maglorius in the 6th

century. On the N.W. coast of the island are the interesting Bou-
tiques Caverns, probably once used by smugglers, and a picturesque
group of detached rocks called Lea Autelets.
Jersey ('grass isle'), the largest and most important of the Chan-
nel Islands, lies 18 M. to the S.E. of Guernsey and 16 M. from
the French coast. It is 10 M. long from E. to W. and 5-6 M. wide
from N. to S. The land is high on the N. side, and slopes down to
the S. and E. The N. coast consists of a lofty and picturesque wall
of cliff, penetrated by numerous small inlets, while the other coasts
expand in large and open bays, with fine sandy beaches. The inter-
ior, which is intersected by several streams , is also picturesque,
especially the small valleys and the old roads, almost concealed
by hedgerows and trees. In 1881 the island contained 52,455 in-
habitants, who carry on an active trade with England, France, Hol-
land, India, and Newfoundland. Large quantities of potatoes, pears,
and apples are annually exported to Covent Garden. Among the
vegetable curiosities of the island is the 'Cow Cabbage' , which
grows to a height of 8-10 ft. and is made into walking-sticks.
English is much more generally spoken than in Guernsey.
The steamer (see p. 84) from St. Peter Port takes about 2 hrs.
to reach (30 M.) St. Helier's, the capital of Jersey, picturesquely
situated in the beautiful Bay of St. Aubin, on the S. of the island.
St. Helier's.— Hotels. Bkee's Stopfokd Hotel, David Place, at
some distance from the harbour, 'pens'. 8s. 6<J.-12s., R. & A. from 3s.;
United Service Hotel, David Place, near Bree's, 'pens'. 7s.; Yacht Club,
near the pier, 'pens'. 8s. 9d., B. & A. frnm 2s. 3d.; Mahine, commercial,
'pens'. 8s. 3d., with swimming and Turkish baths, Minob's Pbivate Hotel,
92 Route V>. ST. HELIER'S. The Channel

'pens'. 8s. 6d., these both facing the sea, at the W. end of the Esplanade;
British, Broad St., 'pens'. 8s.; Star, near the Pier, unpretending, 'pens'.
6s. — French Houses: Pomme d'Or, facing the sea, 'pens', from 7s.; Palais
de Cristal, 62 King St., 'pens'. 8 fr.; Hotel de l'Europe, Mulcaster St.,
8 fr. — Boarding Houses and Lodgings numerous, but often full in the
season.
Restaurants at most of the hotels; Cafi Parisien, at the Palais de
Cristal, see above.
Theatre, Gloucester St., adm. ftd.Ss. —
Pavilion, Springfield Road,
concerts several evenings weekly. —
Band on the pier and in the People's
Park, each once a week in summer.
Post Office, Grove Place. —
Baths, Victoria Baths, George Town; at
the Marine Hotel, see p. 91.
Steamers from Jersey to Granville and St. Malo (fares 10 fr., 6 fr. 25 c;
return, available for a month, 15 fr., 9 fr. 40 c). The days of starting
vary with the season, and are announced in the daily papers. —
To
Guernsey, daily, comp. p. 84. —
The Southampton steamers start from the
Victoria Pier, the farthest from the town, the Weymouth steamers from
the Albert or S. Pier. At low water passengers land in small boats (Qd.
each).
Cabs. For the first mile Is., each additional mile or fraction 6<J.;
from the harbour to the town Is. 6<J. ; per hour 2s. Gd., each addit. '^hr.
is. —Omnibus from the harbour to the town Gd.
Excursion Cars, see p. 85. —
Carriages, 25s. per day.
Railway to Corbiere, 7'/2 M., in 1/2 hr. ; to Gorey, 6 M., in 22 min. Trains
several times daily. Return-tickets entitle the holders to break the journey
at any intermediate station.
St. Heller's, a well-built and flourishing town with 31,000 in-
hab., combines the character of a busy seaport with that of a fashion-
able watering-place. It is a favourite residence for retired officers
of the army and navy and it contains many schools, the chief of
which is Victoria College, a handsome building on the E. side of
the town (1852).
The harbour is enclosed by substantial piers, but is dry at low
water. To the N. is the Town Church, a Gothic edifice of the 14th
cent., lately restored. Opposite the E. end is Royal Square, the
former market-place, with a curious gilt statue of George II. The
square was the scene of the death of Major Pierson at the Battle
of Jersey in 1781, when an attempt by the French to seize the town
was successfully repulsed. On the S.E. side of the square is a block
of buildings containing the Cohue Royal or court-house, the Salle
des Etats, or parliament-house, and the Public Library (17,000 vols.).
The two former are shown by an usher (small fee) in the Cohue ;

Royal is a copy of Copley's 'Death of Major Pierson' (see above),

and Conway, by Gainsborough. Broad St., lead-
a portrait of Gen.
ing W. from Royal Square, contains an obelisk in memory of Pierre
Le Sueur (1811-1853), five times mayor of St. Helier's, and is con-
tinued by York St., with the Hotel de Ville, to the Parade, an open
space planted with trees and embellished with a monument to Gen.
Don, a former governor. Farther to the W. is the People's Park,
above which rises the Oallows Hill. —
To the N.E. of the town is
the Maison St. Louis, a house of the Jesuits.
On a ridge to the E. of the harbour rises Fort Regent (no adm.),
a strong and massive modern fortress, erected at a cost of nearly
 Islands. MONT ORGUEIL. 11. Route. 93

l,000,000t. In size, and as a defence, this stronghold eclipses the

picturesque old Elizabeth Castle, situated on a rock in the middle
of the harbour (permit for the latter on application at the Governor's
Office, No. 8, Stopford Road). On an adjoining rock are the rnins
of a very ancient structure, which tradition names the Hermitage of
St. Helier or Elericus (p. 85).
The excursions from St. Helier's may be conveniently grouped
into the folio-wing three sections, which comprise all the most inter-
esting parts of the island. They may be made by the excursion-cars
(p. 85), or partly by rail (p. 92) and partly on foot. The pedestrian,
however, may perform the circuit of the island without returning at
night to St. Helier's, as there are fair inns at many different points
(comp. below and p. 94).
1. From St. Helier's to Gorey and E. Jersey. Eastern Rail-
way to Gorey in 22 min., skirting the flat coast most of the way,
affording a view of the wide Qrouville Bay with Fort Henry in the
centre. Near the first station, Oeorge Town, are the Victoria Baths.
Pontae (10 min.) is the station for the village of St. Clement, with
an old church containing some curious frescoes. — The small vil-
lage of Oorey (British Hotel; Hotel de France; steamer to Cartaret
and Port Bail, every second day, fare 5«. 4<J.) is the seat of the
Jersey oyster-fishery, which, however, is not so productive as for-
merly. It lies near a lofty headland crowned with *Mont Orgueil
Castle, an imposing and picturesque ruin, part of which is said to
date from the Roman period. The Chapel of St. Oeorge, with short
thick piers and colonettes, is interesting. Charles II. resided here
for some time during his exile, and for three years (1637-40) it was
the prison of William Prynne, the pamphleteer, who wrote here
a poem on the castle. On a clear day the spires of Coutances Cathe-
dral can be seen from the battlements.
Beyond Gorey we proceed on foot along the coast to the N.
Beyond Anne Port and St. Catharine's Harbour is (1 hr. from Gorey)
the breakwater of Pierre Mouillee. This massive work, 800 yds.
long, was constructed in 1843-55 at a cost of 250,0002. as the be-
ginning of a harbour of refuge, before it was discovered that the
set of the tides, etc., rendered the enterprise entirely useless. Beyond
Verclut Point is Flicquet Bay, bounded on the N. by an almost de-
tached headland called La Coupe. On the next headland, the Cou-
peron, is a dolmen ; and beyond it is the secluded little bay of
*Rozel (Hotel), a favourite point for picnics from St. Helier's. From
this point we may return by the road leading to the S. through the
interior of the island, passing first St. Martin's Church (12th cent.),
with an elegant tower disastrously 'restored'. Farther on is La
Hogue Bie, or the Prince's Tower (adm. 6d.), a modern structure
erected on an interesting ancient tumulus. [The name, from
Hougue, a low hill of artificial origin, may be related to the A.S.
hoga and howe, Norse hbge, and German hoch^\ The *View from
94 Route 12. ST. AUBIN'S.

the top very fine, embracing the whole island, with its park-like
is
interior and indented coasts to the E. the coast of Normandy is
;

visible. About 1 M. farther on is the hamlet of Five Oaks, beyond

which we pass St. Saviour's Church, the Government House, and
Victoria College (p. 92), reaching St. Helier's after about 10 M.
walking from Gorey.
Those who have less time to spare may proceed from Gorey direct
to St. Martin's Church or to La Hogtie Bie, reaching St. Helier's after a
walk in the former case of 6 M., in the latter of about 4'/^ M. The direct
road from Gorey to St. Helier's via Grouville is about 3 M.
2. From St. Helier's to St. A-Ubin's, Corbiere, and W. Jersey.
The Western Railway 92) and the road skirt the edge of the
(p.
broad, flat St. Aubin's Bay. At low tide the sands may be crossed
on foot.
,

St. Aubin's near the station, 6s. per day; Sommerville,

{^Nicolle s,

8s. 6d.-10s. 6(i.) is a small town with a harbour and an old castle
built on a detached rock like Elizabeth Castle at St. Helier's.
Beyond St. Aubin's the road leads to the W. to (l'/2 M.) St. Brelade's
Church, one of the oldest churches in the Channel Islands (1111), situated
on the W. shore of the attractive bay of the same name. Adjoining the
church is the Fisherman's Chapel, a still earlier structure. At high tide
the sea washes over the churchyard. The little inlet of Seauport, on the
W. side of the hay, contains some very picturesque rock-scenery. About
2 M. beyond the church is La Corbiere (see below), which may also he
reached by the cliffs.
To the S. of .St. Aubin's are the pretty grounds of Noirmont Manor
(admission usually granted on application at the lodge). The avenue leads
to Noirmont Point, to the W. of which is Portelet Bap, with granite quar-
ries. Janvrin Island in this bay (accessible at low water) derives its
name from a sea-captain who, with his whole crew, died here of plague
in 1721, while in quarantine.

The railway runs inland from

St. Aubin's (only 3-4 trains daily
beyond Aubin's) crossing the sandy plateau of Le Quenvais.
St. ,

La Moye, the fourth station from St. Aubin's, is the most convenient
for those desiring to explore St. Ouen's Bay, etc. (see below), on
foot. The terminus of the railway is at (7y2 M.) La Corbiere, the
S.W. extremity of the island, where there is a lighthouse (permit
obtained at the Hotel de Ville in St. Helier's). Fantastic rocky
scenery.
La Corbiere forms the S. headland of the wide and open Bay
of St. Ouen, which occupies almost the whole of the W. coast. At
the opposite end of the bay, 5'/2 M. to the N., is the Etae, another
detached mass of rock. Accommodation maybe obtained at the inn in
the adjoining village. About 3/4M. farther on is a detached pinnacle
of rock, 160 ft. high, known as La Pule, and 8/4 M. beyond is Cape
Orosnez, the N.W. point of the island, marked by a picturesque
ruined arch. The adjoining *Oreve au Lancon is frequently visit-
ed for its curious caverns and fissures, which, however, are most
easily reached from Plemont Point, on the opposite side. goodA
view obtained here of the other Channel Islands. A walk of l'/^M.
is
along the coast brings us to thu *Oreve de Lecq (Hotel and Inn),
 s

BROCKENHURST. 13. Route. 95

another fine bay, with some curious caves and a ruined breakwater.
The return to (7y2 M.) St. Helier's may be made hence through the
heart of the island, passing St. Mary's Church (1320), the hamlet of
Six Roads, and St. Lawrence's Church (1199) ; or the excursion may
be continued along the N. coast to join the following.
3. From St. Helier's to Botjley Bay and the N. Coast.
This excursion affords a good idea of the luxuriant woods and rich
pastures of the interior of the island. The first part of the route
lies through the picturesque Val des Vaux, the birthplace of Lem-
priere (1750-1824). A little beyond the (3 l/2 M.) Church of the
Trinity (1163), a striking *View is disclosed of the bay, the azure
sea, and the coast of Normandy in the background. The scenery
of (i l /i M.) *Bouley Bay is very bold, the cliffs rising at one point
to a height of 250 ft. About i/2 M. to the E. is Rozel (p. 93).
About l'/2 M. in the opposite direction is Bonne Nuit Harbour, be-
hind which are the pink granite quarries of Mont Mado. About
2-2'/2 M. farther on are the curious cove of La Houle, Sorel Point,
the Les Mouriers Waterfall, and the cavern of Creuz de Vis or
Devil's Hole (2d.'), all well worthy of a visit. They are almost im-
mediately followed by the Crabbe, a deep and narrow gorge, about
1 M. from the Greve de Lecq (see above).

13. From Southampton to Bournemouth, Dorchester,

and Weymouth.
Railway from Southampton to (30 M.) Bournemouth East in l-l'/ 2 hr.
(fares 6j. 3d., is. 3d., 2*. 6d.); to (60y2 M.) Dorchester in 2i/4-23 /« hrs. (fares
12j. 6d., 8*. 9d., 5*. Id.); to (68 M.) Weymouth in 2»/i!-3 l/4 hrs. (14*., 9s.
9d., 5«. 8d.). — The line traverses the New Forest (p. 83), affording
charming views of that district and afterwards of the sea (to the left).
Travellers by this line start from the station at Southampton
West, as the through - trains from London (Waterloo) pass to the
N. of the town without running in to the Terminus at the Docks
(comp. p. 81). —
At (3'/2 M.) Redbridge, whence a branch runs to
Romsey (p. 82), the train crosses the head of Southampton Water
(view to the left) and turns to the S. —
4 M. Totton. At (7 M.)
Lyndhurst Road (New Forest Hotel) we reach the borders of the
New Forest (omn. to Lyndhurst, see p. 83). —
14 M. Brockenhurst
(Rose$ Crown), i.e. 'Badgers' Wood', the nearest station to Beaulieu
Abbey, and a good starting-point for excursions in the New Forest
(comp. p. 83). Part of the interesting church is believed to be
Saxon. On Balmer Lawn, near Brockenhurst, the annual Races
for the ponies of the New Forest take place in August.
From Brockenhurst diverges the line to (5 M.) Lymington (Londes-
borough Arms; Angel), the starting-point of the steamers to Yarmouth
and Totland Bay in the Isle of Wight (comp. p. 73). Lymington is cele-
brated for its yacht-building yards. —
About 6 M. to the S., at the mouth
of the Solent and best reached by water, is Hurst Castle, one of Henry VIII.
coast-defences, and for a time the prison of Charles I. (comp. p. 72).
From Brockenhurst to fiorchestr and Weymouth, see p. 97.
 ;
,

96 Route 13. BOURNEMOUTH.

The new Bournemouth line, opened in 1888, passes Sway, Mil-
ton (for Milford-on-Sea), and Hinton Admiral. —
26V2 M. Christ-
church (King's Arms , well spoken of) is a seaport with an an-
cient *Priory Church, a beautiful Norman and E. E. edifl.ce, pos-
sessing a remarkable North Porch. The lack of a central tower
is, however, severely felt. The screen separating the nave and
choir is a fine Perp. work of 1502. Below the cross is a monu-
ment to the poet Shelley (d. 1822). Some of the other monuments,
the Lady Chapel and the Salisbury Chapel built by Margaret
—
, ,

Countess of Salisbury, about 1535, are also interesting. Near

the river Avon is Constable House a Norman building ; and in
,

the grounds of the hotel are the very scanty remains of an old Castle.
— About 2 M. to the S. is *Hengistbury Head, which commands a
magnificent sea-view, including the Isle of "Wight.
28Y2 M. Boscombe, with the house of Lady Shelley , widow of
the poet's son (see above). —30 M. Bournemouth East; S&fe M.
Bournemouth West.
Bournemouth. —
Hotels. 4 Royal Bath, East Cliff, with good sea-
view; Highcliffe, West Cliff; Mont Dore, a combination of hotel, sana-
torium, and bath-house, in the style of the Mont Dore of Auvergne;
Royal Exeter (Newlyn's) , Exeter Park ; Stewart's , Richmond Hill
Boscombe Chine, 2 M. to the E. ; Grand, East Cliff; Pembroke; Lans-
downe, East Cliff; Bellevue, opposite the Pier; Bourne Hall; Impe-
rial; Central; Beanksome Temperance; Waverley Temperance. —
Hydropathic Establishment, West Cliff. —
Numerous Boarding Houses
(5-8s. per day) and Lodgings. — Lockyer's Restaurant, Quadrant.
Steamers ply in summer from Bournemouth to Swanage, Poole, the
Isle of Wight, Portsmouth, Weymouth, etc.
Excursion Brakes run to (672 M.) Heron Court, (18 M.) Corfe Castle, the
New Forest (ca. 20 M.), (19 M.) Blandford, etc.
Music. Bands perform daily on the Pier and in the Public Gardens.
Bournemouth, a fashionable watering-place and winter-resort
of recent growth, on Poole Bay, with 17,000 inhab., .owes much of
its which it is embosomed.
salubrity to the luxuriant pine-woods in
It liesmainly on two small hills, flanking the sheltered valley of
the Bourne the banks of which are laid out as public gardens,
,

with pleasant walks. The sandy beach affords excellent bathing,

and the Pier provides an agreeable marine promenade. Several of
the churches are handsome modern buildings with lofty spires.
Pleasant walks may be taken along the coast in both directions.
Among the chief features of interest are the 'Chines' (comp.
p. 69) in the sandstone cliffs (particularly to the W.), the most
picturesque being Boscombe Chine (2 M. to the E.), Alum Chine,
(3 M.) *Branksome Chine, and Durley Chine. Rhododendrons grow
very luxuriantly in and about Bournemouth and at the blossoming
;

season (June) a visit should be paid to the magnificent plantations

of these shrubs at (6^2 M.) Heron Court.
From Bournemouth to Poole and Broadslone (with direct connection
with the Midlands and North of England), see p. 97.
Through - trains perform the direct journey from London (Waterloo)
to Bournemouth East in 2V2-3 1 /* hrs. (fares 22s., 16s. 5d., 9s).
 DORCHESTER. 13. Route. 97

Beyond Brockenhurst (p. 95) the Dobchesteb, Line traverses

the S. margin of the New Forest, passing (19 M.) Holmesley and
reaching the extremity of the Forest at (25 V2 M.) Bingwood ( White
Hart; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), the junction of a branch -line to
(8 M.) Christchurch and (12'/2 M.) Bournemouth East (p. 96).
The train then crosses the Avon and enters Dorsetshire, one of the
many counties claiming the title 'Garden of England' on the score
of the richness of their vegetation. At (30 M.) West Moors a
branch-line diverges on the N. to Salisbury (p. 99). —
At (35 M.)
Wimborne (Crown; King's Head) there is a fine old * Minster or
collegiate church, illustrating all the styles from Norman to Perp.,
and possessing a perhaps unique library, in which the volumes
»Te still chained to the shelves. Near Wimborne are Cranborne
Manor, a seat of the Marquis of Salisbury, and Canford House
(Lord Wimborne), containing Assyrian antiquities brought home by
Sir A. H. Layard. The railway forks here, the right branch leading
into Somerset (Bath, Wells), while our line keeps to the left. —
41 M. Broadstone $ New Poole Junction is the diverging point of a
short line to (5V2M.) Poole (Antelope; London), a brisk little sea-
port, with 12,300 inhab. and a good harbour, Parkstone, and 10 M.
Bournemouth West (p. 96). —The train then skirts Poole Harbour
to (43M.) Hamworthy Junction and (46 M.) Wareham (Red Lion ;

Bear) an ancient and decayed town with earthen ramparts.

,

Wareham the junction of a branch-line to (6 M.) Corfe Castle and

is
(11 M.) Swanage. —
*Corfe Castle, erected on the Purbeck Downs soon
after the Norman Conquest, occupies the site of the hunting-lodge where
Edward the Martyr was assassinated in 979. It was a frequent residence
of King John, and in the Civil War was stoutly defended against the
Parliamentarians by Lady Bankes. — Swanage (Royal Victoria, well spoken
of; Ship) is a pleasant little watering-place with a good beach.
Purbeck Island, the peninsula on which both these places lie, is famous
for its potter's clay and a stone resembling marble. The coast scenery is
interesting (Tilly Whim, St. Albany's Head, Stud land, with its tiny Norman
church, etc.).
The train now follows the valley of the Frome. Near (51 M.)
Wool are the ruins of Bindon Abbey (12th cent.), and about 3 M.
to the S. is Lulworth Castle (16th 55 ! /2 M. Moreton.
cent.).
6OY2 M. Dorchester (King's Arms Antelope), the county-town
;

of Dorsetshire, an ancient place with 7570 inhab., was the Dur-

novaria of the Romans. The Dorset Museum contains one of the
best provincial collections of antiquities in England. A statue, by
Roscoe Mullins, of the Rev. Wm. Barnes (d. 1886), author of
poems in the Dorset dialect, was erected in St. Peter's Churchyard
in 1889.
To the S. of Dorchester are the Maumbury Rings, the most perfect
Roman amphitheatre in England, 220 ft. long and 165 ft. wide. In the
neighbourhood are Poundbury and Maiden Castle, two large entrenched
c.imps, the origin of the first being doubtful, while the second is almost
certainly British. Huge flocks of South Down sheep graze on the sur-
rounding hills. —
Dorchester is the junction of lines to Bridport and
Yeovil (p. 102).
Baedekek's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 7
98 Route U. ANDOVER. From London

68 M. Weymouth (Burdon ; Gloucester ; Royal ; Victoria Great ;

Western; Crown), a thriving watering-place with 13,700 inhah.,

situated at the mouth of the Wey, in the centre of a beautiful bay.
It was a favourite resort of George III., whose visits brought it
into fashion. The beach is admirably adapted for bathing, and the bay
for boating. The Nothe ,a promontory dividing the town into two
parts, is a fine point of view.
Excursions may be made by steamer from Weymouth to Lulworth
Cove, Swanage, Bournemouth, Lyme Regis, etc., and on land to the Fort
(tine view), Osmington (with an equestrian figure of George III. cut in the
chalk), Corfe Castle (p. 97), and Abbotsbury, with a ruined monastery and
a large swannery.
The chief object of interest in the neighbourhood, however, is Portland
Island, 4 M. to the S. (branch-railway, fares 6d., id,, 3d.), with its con-
vict-prison (1600 inmates), its quarries, and its Breakwaters. The last,
3
consisting of two huge stone causeways (the larger l /4 M. long and 100 ft.
broad), enclosing an immense harbour of refuge, were constructed by con-
vict labour in 1847-72., contain 6,000,000 tons of stone, and cost more
than 1,000,000?. Portland Castle was built by Henry VIII. Portland Is-
land, the S. point of which is called the Portland Bill, is really a penin-
sula, united with the mainland by a curious strip of shingle called the
C/iesil Bank (comp. German 'KieseP), extending to (10 M.) Abbotsbury,
and full of interest for the geologist (see Damon's 'Geology of Weymouth
and Portland'). The chief villages in the island are Chesillon (Eoyal Vic-
toria), the terminus of the railway, and Castleton (Royal Breakwater Hotel).
— From Weymouth to the Channel Islands, see R. 12.
From London Weymouth is reached either by the G. W. R. (160 M.)
or the L. S. W. E. (145 M.) in 4V4-6 hrs. (fares 29s. 6c?., 20s., 12s. Vfrd.).

14. From London to Salisbury and Exeter.

1711/2 M. Railway (South Western, from Waterloo) in 4V2-6 3 A, hrs. (fares
35s., 25s., 14s. 3'/^.). FromLondon to Salisbury r83'/2 M.) in 2-3 hrs. (17s.
bd., 12s. 3d., 6s. llVad.); from Salisbury to Exeter (87'/2 M.) in 2-3V2 hrs.
(17s. bd., 12s. 3d., 6s. ild.). —
Exeter may
also be reached by the Great
Western Railway via Taunton (194 M., in 4 1 /4-6 1 /4 hrs.; fares as above;
comp. R. 16).
From London to (48 M.) Basingstoke, see R. 11. About 3 M. —
farther on the Winchester line diverges to the left. The district
now traversed is somewhat unattractive. 59 M. Whitchurch (White
Hart). About 2 M. to the E. is the paper manufactory of the Bank
of England, and 6 M. to the N. is Kingsclere, with training-stables
for race-horses. •
—
60 M. Hurstboume, the station for Hurstbourne
Priors, the seat of the Earl of Portsmouth surrounded by a pic-
,

turesque park.
66 M. Andover (Star $ Garter; White Hart), an agricultural
town with 5870 inhab., is the junction of lines to Savernake and
Swindon (N.) and Romsey (S. for Southampton). About li/2 M.
;

to the S. is Bury Hill, with an extensive and well-defined British

camp (view). An important annual fair, chiefly for sheep and hops,
is held at Weyhill, 3 M. to the N.W. —
Near (72i/2 M.) Grately
rises *Quarley Hill, crowned with an ancient and extensive en-
trenchment, and commanding a fine view. A little beyond (78 M.)
Porton (right) is seen the fortified hill of Old Sarum (comp. p. 101).
 .

Monuments:
SMJJSiMf CATVORAL L Herman
Tert 2. Old Bishop

i. RobPlarilBungtrfbrd
s. mil. Langespee, fhe 1st.
6. Sir John. Cheney
7. SirJoJai de MaUacute
8. WUUL<mgespee,Qit2na.
9 Boy Bishop
id. Bishop Mtford

11. a Bri&port
12. » JgriZfe
13.Aodteyb Chantry
Ur.Szngafard »
IS. iSrr Thorn. Gorges

r :

Cloisters
 :;

to Exeter. SALISBURY. Id. Route. 99

8372 M. Salisbury. — Hotels. 'White Hakt, St. John's St., R.

& A. is. Gd. Red Lion, Cathedral, Milford St. *Angel, near the station,
; ;

R. & A. it. Thkee Swans, Winchester St. — Rail. Rfmt. Rooms.

;

Salisbury, the county-town of Wiltshire, -with 15,660 inhah.,

is pleasantly situated at the confluence of the three small rivers
Wiley, Avon, and Bourne. It owes its existence to the trans-
ference of the episcopal see from Old Sarum to this site (1220),
and has had a peaceful and comparatively uneventful history.
The lofty spire of the Cathedral dominates all views of the
town. We may enter the cathedral-precincts by St. Anne's Oate,
near the White Hart Hotel, or by the similar archway at the end
of High St. The beautiful *Close consists of a large expanse of
velvety sward, shaded by lofty trees and affording an unimpeded
view of the most graceful and symmetrical of English cathedrals.
On the turf of the Close, to the N. of the Cathedral, are the found-
ations of the old Campanile, pulled down by Wyatt (see below).
Another old archway (Harnham Oate) is still standing at the S. W.
corner of the Close.
*Salisbury Cathedral , a splendid example of pure Early
English , enjoyed the rare advantage of having been begun and
finished within a period of 40 years (1220-1260), and is remark-
able for the uniformity harmony and perspicuity of its con-
, ,

struction. Mr. Fergusson has well pointed out that there is scarcely
a trace of foreign influence in the building , the square E. end in
particular taking the place of the apse of the Norman churches and
fixing the future character of English choirs ; and he adds that it
is 'one of the best proportioned and, at the same time, most poetic
designs of the Middle Ages' ('History of Architecture', Vol. 11).
The various parts of the building all unite to lead the eye to
the central point, the richly-adorned *Spire (1250), which is the
loftiest in England (406 ft.). The ground-plan of the Cathedral
is cruciform, with two sets of transepts. The sculptures on the
W. front were nearly all destroyed by the Puritans, but have been
replaced. The chief dimensions of the Cathedral are as follows
length 473 ft., breadth across the W. transepts 230 ft., breadth of
nave and aisles 99 ft., height of nave 81 ft. The usual entrance is
by the N. Porch, which is open 9-6 in summer, 9.30-4 in winter;
daily services at 7.30 a. m., 10 a. m., and 4p.m. (3p.m. in summer).
The 'Interior is finely proportioned and impressive, but produces a
somewhat cold and bare effect, due in part to the want of stained glass
and in part to the ruthless manner in which Wyatt swept away screens,
monuments, and chapels in his 'restoration' at the close of last century,
The restoration carried out more recently by Sir O. O. Scolt was for-
tunately characterised by a more modest and judicious spirit. The
columns throughout are adorned with slender shafts of Purbeck marble.
The Nave, consisting of ten bays, is somewhat narrow in proportion
to its height. It contains several monuments, few, however, left in their
original positions. Among the most interesting are the following (begin-
ning at the W. end of the S. aisle and returning by the N. aisle):
Herman (? lith cent.); tombstones of two Bishops of Old Sarum (see p. 101
ll-12th cent.), the first of which is believed to be the oldest monument
7*
100 Route 14. SALISBURY. From London
in the church; Robert, Lord Hungerford (d. 1469), with effigy in ala-
baster; William Longespie (d. 1226), first Earl of Salisbury, son of Henry II.
and Fair Kosamond, one of the founders of the Cathedral, with effigy
in marble; *Sir John Cheyney (d. 1509; N. aisle), the standard-bearer of
Henry VII. at Bosworth, with a fine alabaster effigy; Sir John de Munt-
acule (d. 1389); 'William Longespie, 2nd Earl of Salisbury, killed in the
Holy Land in 1250; tomb of a k Boy Bishop'', i.e. a choir-boy elected
as bishop, according to an old custom, on St. Nicholas Day (Dec. 6th) and
bearing the title till Holy Innocents' Day (Dec. 28th). The modern
Pulpit is by Sir G. G. Scott. The *Stained Glass in the W. window is
from Dijon. — In the N.W. Transept are three monuments by Flaxman.
The Choik (adm. 6<i!.) is separated from the nave by a modern metal
screen by Skidmore. The vaulting has been coloured in accordance with
the index afforded by a few traces of the original decorations. The
stalls, pulpit, and reredos are modern. On the N. side of the choir is
the fine Perpendicular Chantry of Bishop Audley (1520), and on the S. the
Hungerford Chantry, a good example of 15th cent, iron-work (1430). —
The E. extremity of the Cathedral is occupied by the "Lady Chapel, with
five lancets filled with modern stained glass. Adjacent, at the E. end of
the N. choir aisle, is the monument of Sir Thomas Gorges (d. 1610) and
his wife (d. 1635), the builders of Longford Castle (p. 101). —
Before leaving
this part of the building we should visit the N. E. Transept, with the
interesting and curious brass of Bishop Wyville (d. 1375). From the S.E.
Transept, containing the monument of Bp. Bridporl (d. 1262), a door
leads to the Vestry and Muniment Room.
We enter the beautiful "'Cloisters, with their smooth green sward and
two old cedars , from the S. W. Transept. They are of somewhat later
date than the body of the Cathedral and are in excellent preservation. —
On the E. side of the Cloisters is the "Chapter House, an octagonal build-
ing of the end of the 13th cent. (52 ft. high). It is adorned with quaint
carvings, but those on the *Doorway by which it is entered are finer.
Fine view from the battlements of the Tower, 212 ft. above the ground
(entr. from the Great Transept). The W. piers of the tower have settled
a little, and the apex of the spire is 2 ft. out of the perpendicular.
Opposite the W. front of trie cathedral is the Deanery, to the S.
of which is the so-called 'King's House', an interesting mansion of
the 14-15th cent, with a projecting porch, now used as a training-
college for school-mistresses. To the N. of the Deanery is another
dwelling of the 15th cent, called the 'King's Wardrobe'. — A gate
at the S. E. angle of the Cathedral leads into the lovely grounds
of the *Bishop's Palace, an irregular building of various dates.
Among the most interesting secular buildings is the Halle of John
Halle, with a fine timber front, in Canal St., built as a dwelling
by a rich wool-merchant in 1470, restored in 1834, and now used
as a shop. Not far off is the late-Gothic Poultry Cross, also restored.
In St. Ann St., leading to the E. from the White Hart Hotel,
is the Salisbury and South Wilts Museum (open free, Mon. 8-9 p. m.,
other days 2-5, to strangers at other times also), containing geologi-
cal, ornithological, and antiquarian collections. Attached to it is
the Blackmore Museum, the chief feature of which is a collection
of American antiquities. — In St. John's St., below the White Hart,
is the old King's Arms, the secret rendezvous of the Royalists after
the battle of Worcester. A bronze statue of Prof. Fawcett (d. 1884),
a native of Salisbury, was erected in the market-place in 1887.
Philip Massinger, the dramatist (d. 1640), Joseph Addison (d. 1719), and
 to Exeter. STONEHENGE. 14. Route. 101
Henry Fielding, the Dovelist (d. 1754), all resided at Salisbury. The 'Vicar
of Wakefield', by Oliver Goldsmith (d. 1774), issued from the press here.
Environs. Interesting excursion to Stonehenge, lying 9 M. to the N.
(carriage there and back, with one horse 13-15*., with two horses 21*., and
fee ; excursion-brakes sometimes make the trip in summer, fare 5s.). The
road usually selected leads by (1 M.) Old Sarum, the largest entrenched
camp in the kingdom, once the site of a Roman fort, and afterwards of a
Saxon town. It stands on a high mound affording an admirable view of
Salisbury. The cathedral, removed to Salisbury in 1258, originally stood
here, and a fragment of the old building still remains. The 'Ordinal of
Offices for the Use of Sarum' became the ritnal of all S. England. At the
neighbouring village of Stratford is a house once inhabited by the elder
Pitt, who was first returned to parliament in 1735 as member for the
rotten borough of Old Sarum. 8 M. Amesbury (George), prettily situated in
a slight depression on the Avon. In the neighbourhood are the pictur-
esque seat of Amesbury Abbey, so named from a former religious house, and
Vespasian's Camp, of British origin, but afterwards turned to account by the
Romans. The old abbey-church deserves a visit. Gay wrote the 'Beggar's
Opera' at Amesbury Abbey, when on a visit to the Duke and Duchess of
Queensberry. — About l'/i M. to the W. lies 'Stonehenge (called by the
Saxons Stanhengest, i. e. 'hanging stones' ; formerly Choir Qaur or Ctr Gawr,
Giant's circle or temple) the imposing ruins of an ancient sanctuary,
,

the origin and object of which are unknown. When complete it seems to
have consisted of two concentric circles enclosing two ellipses. Of the
outer circle 17 stones are still standing, partly connected with each
other by flat slabs lying across their tops. In the middle is the so-
called Altar, a slab of blue marble. The sacred road leading to the circles
can be traced by its banks of earth. The isolated stone at some distance
from the rest is known as the 'Friar's Heel'. Most of the larger stones
are of 'Sarsen' sandstone, and the others are of granite. —
Salisbury Plain,
an undulating plateau in the midst of which Stonehenge lies, formerly
a sterile tract, has been converted into a fertile district by the advance of
agriculture. All around are baTrows and tumuli. — We may return to Salis-
bury through the beautiful valley of the Avon, passing (2'/2 M.) Great Durn-
ford, with the British camp of Ogbury Hill, and (2'/2 M.) Heale House,
where Charles II. spent some days after the Battle of Worcester (1651).
Wilton (Pembroke Arms) a small town with 8600 inhab. and im-
,

portant carpet-manufactories, 3 M. to the W. of Salisbury, possesses a

handsome modern "Church, in the Lombard style, elaborately embel-
lished with marble. — Near the town stands Wilton House (shown on
Wed., 10-4; fee Gd), the seat of the Earl of Pembroke, famed for its
valuable Greek and Roman Sculptures, and its "Collection of pictures by
Van Dyck, Holbein, Diirer, Poussin, Reynolds, and other masters. The
first earl, the friend of Shakspeare, died in 1600; almost all the subsequent
earls have been eminent as lovers of art. The drawing-room is adorned
with paintings of scenes from Sir Philip Sidney's 'Arcadia', which was
written here. The grounds are also worth seeing. The Italian Garden con-
tains a pavilion designed by Holbein. —
The road to Wilton passes (IV2 M.)
Bemerlon, where George Herbert was rector from 1630 to his death in 1635.
'Longford Castle, the seat of the Earl of Radnor lies on the Avon,
,

3 M. to the S.E. of Salisbury. The 'Collection of pictures (shown on

Tues. and Frid.) is fine ,but the best three (by Holbein Velazquez,
,

and Moroni) were sold to the National Gallery in 1890 for 55,000J. There
is also an exquisite specimen of metal-work in the shape of a steel chair
presented by the town of Augsburg to Emp. Rudolf II. in 1574.
From Salisbury to Bath, see p. 113.
Beyond Salisbury the train passes through a tunnel, 450 yds.
long. 86 M. Wilton, see above the church-tower is visible to
;

the left. — 92 M. Dinton (Wyndham Arms), the birthplace of

the first Lord Clarendon (1609-1674). About 2 M. to the S. W. of
(96 M.) Tisbury (Eenett Arms) is Wardour Castle, the seat of Lord
102 Route 14. SHERBORNE. From London

Arundel, with a fine collection of paintings and antiquities (daily,

11-i). — 101 i/o M. Semley, the station for Ilindon and Shaftesbury.
Near Hindon, a small town 3 M. to the N., is Fonthill Abbey, where
lieckford, the author of 'Vathek', lived in complete seclusion; the princely
mansion he erected has given place to a less pretentious structure. —
Shaftesbury (Grosvenor Arms), with 8500inhab., lies 3 M. to the S. (omn.
l.«.) and is said to be one of the oldest towns in England. A nunnery
was founded here by King Alfred in 880. In the neighbourhood is St.
Giles, the seat of the Earl of Shaftesbury. — About 10 M. to the S. of
Semley, in Cranbome Chase, lies Rushmore, the seat of the well-known
archseologist , Gen. Pitt-Rivers, with a small collection of paintings (in-
cluding some Grseco-Egyptian mummy-portraits from the Fayoum), some
13th cent, windows, etc. (shown to visitors). Near it are King John's House,
traditionally a hunting-seat of King John, and the Wych Mm (in the Lar-
mer Grounds; band on Sun., 3-5 p.m.). At Farnham, 2 M. to the S.E., is
an interesting Museum and near it are the sites of the Romano-British
,

villages of Woodcuts Eotherly and the ancient Vindogladia (in Bokerly

, ,

Dyke; 6 M. from the museum). Pleasant drives and walks in Rushmore

Park and the Chase Wood (apply at the lodges).
Beyond (105 M.) Oillingham (Phoenix), withlarge bacon-curing
factories, we
pass through a tunnel 715yds. long. —
112M. Temple-
combe Junction (Royal Hotel Rfmt. Rooms), where lines diverge
;

to Bath and Wells (see p. 112) and to Burnham on the N.W.,

and to Wimborne (p. 97), Broadstone (p. 97), and Bournemouth
(p. 96) on the S. —118 M. Sherborne ("Digby; Antelope), with
oOOOinhab., pleasantly situated on the Yeo. In the 8th cent, it
became the seat of a bishopric, transferred to Old Sarum in 1078.
The old "Minster is a fine Norman structure, afterwards converted into
the Perp. style and recently restored. The vaulting and the choir are
specially noteworthy. The Grammar School dates from about 1550. Sher-
borne Castle, part of which was built by Sir Walter Baleigh, is situated
in a beautiful park, open to the public. Near it are the remains of the
old castle (12th cent.).
123 M. Yeovil Junction, for (3 M.) Yeovil (Three Choughs;
Mermaid), an ancient glove-making town of 8480 inhab., situated
in a pretty and diversified district. Fine Perp. church. Yeovil is
the junction of lines to Dorchester (p. 97), Durston (for Taunton,
p. 127), and Chippenham (p. 108). —
125 M. Sutton Bingham;
•

131 Y2 M. Crewkerne (George), with a Perp. church (15th cent.)

with a fine W. front. Just short of (139 72 M.) Chard Junction,
whence a branch runs to (3 M.) Chard (George) and (15 M.) Taun-
ton (p. 127), we see to the left *Ford Abbey, a Cistercian founda-
tion of the 12th cent, now a private mansion. —
M-i^M. Axmin-
ster (George Three Cups), formerly noted for its carpets.
;

From Axminster a coach runs several times daily to (5 M.) Lyme

Regis (Cups; Lion), a picturesquely-situated seaport, where the Duke of
Monmoulh landed in 1685. It is now frequented as a bathing-place. About
l'/2 M. to the E. is the pretty village of Charmouth (Coach & Horses;
George), visited for sea-bathing. —
Whitchurch Canonicorum, 3 M. to the N.E.
of Cbarmouth, has an interesting church (Norman to Perp.). A visit should
be paid to the 'Dowlands Landslip (6d.), 3 M. to the W. of Lyme.
148 M. Seaton Junction, where carriages are changed for Colyton
and the small watering-place of (4 M.) Seaton (Beach ; Clarence
Pole Arms), with admirable cricket and lawn-tennis grounds. — ;
 ;;
,

to Exeter. EXETER. 14. Route. 103

155 M. Honiton (Dolphin Angel), "with an old church; the fine

;

lace towhich it has given name, first introduced by Dutch refugees,

is now chiefly made at the neighbouring villages. —
From (159 M.)
Sidmouth Junction a branch diverges to (3 M.) Ottery St. Mary
(King's Arms) with a fine church (a reduced copy of Exeter
,

Cathedral, with the only other pair of transeptal towers in England

see p. 104), and (9M.) Sidmouth (Knowle; Bedford; York), a fa-
vourite "watering-place, with a fine old Gothic church and an espla-
nade. —
163 M. Whimple; 166 M. Broad Clyst; 169 M. Pinhoe.
1711/2 M. Exeter. — Arrival. There are three railway-stations in
Exeter: 1. Queen Street Station, near the centre of the town, for the
South Western Railway ; 2. St. David's, to the W. of the town, near the
river, for the Great Western Railway, but connected with the Queen
St. Station; 3. St. Thomas's Station, a second station of the G. W. R., on
the other side of the Exe. — The hotel-omnibuses meet the trains.
Hotels. "Rougemont, a large and well-equipped establishment, close
to the Queen St. Station, R. & A. is. 6d., table d'hote at 7 p.m. 5s.;
"Clarence, quietly situated in the Cathedral Yard, R. & A. is. 6d., D. 5s.
Queen's, Queen St.; New London, Half Moon, High Street; Globe, Ca-
thedral Yard Museum, unpretending, R. & A. 2s. 3d.
; — Mail. Rfmt. Rooms.
Tramways from the end of High St. to St. David's Station and to the
suburbs. —Cabs. Drive within the town Is.; to Heavitree Is. 6d. to Mt.
;

Radford Is. 6<J. ; beyond the municipal boundaries Is. per mile.
Exeter, the capital of Devonshire and one of the chief places
in the "W". of England, an ancient town with 47,000 inhab., is
pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Exe and forms a good
starting-point for exploring the beautiful scenery of S. Devonshire.
It has been described ('Escott's England') as being 'as good a
specimen of an English county-town , at once prosperous in busi-
ness, and with a quiet air of aristocratic distinction about it, as
could be found within the four seas'.
The origin of Exeter is very ancient. The Romans Latinized the
name of the British town of Caerwisc into Isca, while the modern form
is derived from the Anglo-Saxon Exanceaster. It is the one English city
in which it is certain that human habitation has never ceased from the
Roman period to the present day; and it is the one city which did not
fall into the hands of the Anglo-Saxons before their conversion to Chris-
tianity. It was repeatedly besieged during the various civil contests that
have raged in England, and was the scene of many interesting historical
events. William of Orange remained several days at Exeter after his
landing at Torbay, and was joined here by many men of rank. The
episcopal see has existed here since 1050, when it was transferred from
Crediton. Comp. Freeman's 'Exeter' ('Historic Towns Series'; 1887).
Exeter carries on a considerable foreign trade, and vessels of 150 tons
can ascend to the town by means of a ship-canal first constructed in the
12th century. The chief industrial products are gloves and agricultural
machinery, and the city is the principal market for the 'Honiton lace'
made in the neighbourhood.
Close to the Queen Street Station rise the ruins of Rougemont
Castle, founded by William the Conqueror and situated within the
grounds of Rougemont Lodge. The castle is mentionedin 'Richard III.'
iv. 2. Part of the hill above the old moat has been converted into a
promenade called the Northernhay, shaded with fine elms (views)
and containing a statue of Lord Jddesleigh (d. 1886), by Boehm.
104 Route 14. EXETER. Cathedral.

From the station Queen St. leads to the S. towards High St.
and the centre of the city. In it, to the left, is the Albert Mem-
orial Museum, containing Devonshire antiquities, a cabinet of nat-
ural history a library, and a school of art (daily, except Thurs.,
,

free). On the staircase is a statue of Prince Albert, by Stephens.

On reaching the High St. we cross it, and continuing in the
same direction reach the Cathedral Yard. The *Cathedral (services
at 10.30 and 3 adm. to choir 6d.), though comparatively small and
;

unimposing, is in -virtue of its details one of the most admirable

examples in England of the Geometrical Decorated style.
Nothing now remains of the church used as a cathedral on the
transference of the see to Exeter in 1050 (see p. 103); and the
oldest parts of the present building are the massive transeptal
towers, dating from the early part of the 12th cent, and an al-
most unique feature in English churches (see p. 103). The rest of
the cathedral was built (or altered from Norman to Dec.) between
1280 and 1370, mainly from the designs of Bishop Quivil (d. 1291).
The elaborate W. facade was added by Bishop Brantyngham (1370-
1394); and the whole was lately restored under the superintend-
ence of Sir G. G. Scott. One of the chief characteristics of the ex-
terior is the large size and number of the buttresses. The Cathe-
dral is 408ft. long, 76ft. wide, and 66ft. high; width across tran-
septs 140 ft. ;height of towers 166 ft. —
"We enter by the North
Porch.
The ^Interior (open 10-3) is distinguished by great lightness and ele-
gance, due in part to the absence of a central tower, though the full effect
is marred by the obtrusive position of the organ. The long unbroken line
of vaulting is particularly fine. The perfect symmetry of the building has
often been pointed out. 'Not only does aisle answer to aisle, and pillar
to pillar, and window tracery to window tracery, but also chapel to
chapel, screen to screen, and even tomb to tomb, and canopy to canopy'
('Architectural History of Exeter Cathedral', by Archdeacon Freeman).
The triforium here has not the dignity of a distinct story, but is simply
a low blank arcade. Most of the stained glass is poor. The "Minstrels'
Oallery on the N. side of the Nave, with figures of angels playing on
musical instruments, dates from 1400. On the S. side of the great W.
door is the Chantry of Bishop Qrandisson (d. 136!)), formerly *S<. Radegunde's
Chapel; and at the W. end of the N. aisle is another small chapel de-
dicated to St. Edmund. The modern Pulpit, at the W. end of the nave,
is a memorial of Bishop Patteson (d. 1871), the missionary bishop. The
N. Transept contains a curious clock of the 14th cent, and a statue of
Northcote, the painter (d. 1831), by Chantrey. It is adjoined by the Sylke
Chantry (16th cent.) and St. Paul's Chapel. Corresponding to the latter is
St. John's Chapel in the S. Transept, opposite the entrance to which is the
monument of Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon (d. 1377). From the corner of
this transept we enter the narrow Chapel of the Holy Ghost, beyond which
is the E.E. Chapter House, containing the cathedral-library.
The Choir is separated from the body of the church by a stone screen
of the first half of the 14th cent., lately restored. It is surrounded by
various small chapels and chantries, and contains the tombs of several
bishops. The reredos and choir-stalls are modern, but the misereres (1194-
1206) and sedilia are old, and also the beautiful "Episcopal Throne (1308-
26). Part of the glass in the Perp. E. window is ancient. — The Lady
Chapel contains the interesting monuments of Bishop Simon de Apulia
(d. 1223), Bartholomeus Iscanus (d. 1184), and two other bishops.
 Environs. EXETER. 14. Route. 105

Visitors should ascend the N. tower (entr. in N. transept) for the sake
of the view. The large bell here, called 'Great Peter', weighs 6 tons.
The Cloisters are now being rebuilt on the old foundations, with an
attempted reproduction of the old vaulting and tracery (Dec).
"Within the Cathedral Close are the Episcopal Palace and the
Deanery. One of the houses on the N. side has a good bay-window,
dating from the end of the 15th century. The pretty grounds of the
Palace (shown in the absence of the family) are reached by following
the road to the S. of the cathedral (entr. by arched door), of the E.
end of which they command a good view.
In the High Street, not far from the Cathedral, is the Guildhall,
a quaint-looking building of the 15-16th cent., containing some
interesting portraits. The upper part projects over the footway, and
forms a kind, of arcade supported by columns. Some of the private
houses in the High Street, and the College of Priest Vicars in South
St. , are also interesting old buildings. Several of the Churches
of Exeter (e. g. St. Pancras) are of considerable interest, and the
handsome Training College for Schoolmasters may also be mentioned.
A good view of the town is obtained from Mt. Dinham, a small hill
on the left bank of the Exe, crowned with the handsome modern Church
of St. Michael. — A still better view is obtained from the Reservoir, at
the 0/2 hr.) top of the long hill leading through the pleasant suburb of
Pennsylvania, on the N. W. side of the town (apply at the keeper's cottage).
The walk may be extended to (3 /4 M.) Duryard Park (adm. id.), whence
we may return by a drive leading down to the valley of the Exe.
Excursions. Coaches leave the chief Exeter hotels every Sat. in sum-
mer for Chudleigh (p. 130) , DawUsh (p. 129) , Budleigh (see below) , or
Tiverton (p. 129), all pleasant drives of 20-25 M. (there and back) ; return
fare in each case 3s. 6<2. — An opportunity is afforded of a visit to
Dartmoor (p. 137) from Exeter by trains leaving Exeter (G. W. K.) at
10.50 a.m., and running (via Newton Abbot) in connection with the coach
starting from Bovey Tracy (p. 130) at 12.30 p. m. The coach varies its route
daily, visiting flaytor Hocks, Hound Tor, Bowerman's Nose, Manaion, the
Becky Falls, Moreton, Dunsford Bridge, Ashburton, Bolne Chase, Buckland,
etc. The train for Exeter leaves at 7.24 p.m., arriving at 9.26 p. m. Fares
lor the round 4s., box-seat 5s. (Is. less on Tues.). The above data are
subject to alteration; enquiry should be made on the spot.
From Exeter to Exmootu, IOV2 M., South Western Railway in >/2 hr.
(fares Is. 9<*., Is. id., i0 l fed.). This short branch descends along the E.
bank of the Exe. — 5'/2 M. Topsham (Globe), formerly the port of Exeter.
— IOV2 M. Exmouth ("Imperial; Beacon; London), a pleasant little water-
ing-place, at the mouth of the Exe, with a fair beach and an esplanade.
The hill called the Beacon, rising above the town, affords good views. —
From Exmouth an omnibus runs to Budleigh Salterton (Itolle Arms), an-
other charming little watering-place, 4'/2 M. to the E.
From Exeter to Barnstaple, 39'/2 M., S. W. Railway in i 3/4 hr. (fares
8s. 2d., 5s. 9d., 3s. id.). The scenery on this line is pretty and thoroughly
Devonian. — 772 M. Crediton (Angel ; Ship) was once the seat of the
bishopric of Devonshire, now centred in Exeter (comp. p. 103). At
(1 l'/a M.) Yeoford the railway to Tavistock and Plymouth diverges to the
left, skirting Dartmoor (see p. 137). At (13 3/4 M.) Copplestone is an ancient
cross. Beyond (18 M.) Lapford we enter the valley of the Taw, which we
follow all the way to Barnstaple. The scenery becomes more open. Fine
view of Barnstaple as we approach. — 39'/2 M. Barnstaple , and thence
to Bideford and Torrington (left) and Ilfracombe (right), see R. 20.
From Exeter to Barnstaple by the Exe Valley, see p. 128; to Torquay,
Tavistock, launceston, and Plymouth, see R. 17a and R. 17b; to Bristol,
see R. 16.
 106

15. From London to Bath and Bristol.

liS'/a M. Geeat Western Railway (Paddington Station) in 2 l li-i 3 /i hrs.
(fares 20s. 10d., lbs. Id., 9s. 1072 <Z.). From Bath to Bristol, ttljz M., in
V3-V2 h r- —This line (London to Penzance) is now the only line in England
on the 'broad gauge' system , the rails being 7 ft. apart ; the carriages
are very comfortable and the rate of speed attained is very high. The
7774 M. between London and Swindon are traversed by the 'Flying Dutch-
man' in rather less than I72 hr., or an average of 53 miles per hour.
The 'narrow gauge is also laid as far as Exeter.
1

In quitting London the train passes Kensal Oreen Cemetery on

the right, near Westbourne Park. The first stations beyond the
precincts of London are (4y4 M.) Acton and (5 3/4 M.) Ealing. At
(7'/2 M.) Hanwell, to the left, is the large Middlesex Lunatic Asy-
lum, with room for 1000 inmates. From (9 M.) Southall, where
we cross the Grand Junction Canal a line diverges to the left to
,

Brentford. 13y4 M. West Drayton (branch to Uxbridge).

liSy2 M. Slough. (Crown; Royal) is the junction of the line to
Eton and Windsor, for a description of which as well as of Stoke
,

Poges, Burnham Beeches, and other places in this neighbourhood,

see Baedeker's Handbook for London. Aview of Windsor Castle is
obtained to the left. The scenery of the Thames Valley between
Slough and Goring (see below) is very pleasing.
24 M. Maidenhead (p. 221), prettily situated on the Thames, is
the junction of a line to Wycombe and Oxford (see p. 223). From
(31 M.) Twyford a branch diverges to Henley-on-Thames (p. 220).
36 M. Beading {Great Western, at the station; Queen's; Vastern
Temperance ; Oeorge, unpretending, R. & A. 3s.), the county-town
of Berkshire, is an ancient and flourishing town with 42,000 in-
habitants. The" Benedictine Abbey, founded by Henry I. in 1121,
and containing his grave, was once one of the wealthiest in England;
a few ruins now alone remain. The gateway has, however, been
restored. Several parliaments were held in the great hall of the
abbey. Archbishop Laud, beheaded in 1645, was the son of a tailor
of Reading. Huntley fy Palmer's well-known biscuit manufactory
employs 3000 hands. The churches of St. Mary (16th cent.), St.
Lawrence, and Oreyfriars are interesting. The nursery gardens and
seed-farms of Sutton & Sons cover 3000 acres of ground.
Reading may also be reached from London by the S. W. Railway via
^isco* (4372 M.), or by the circuitous route of the S. E.R. via Beigate and
Ouild/ord (67 M. comp. p. 64).
;

Another branch of the G.W.R., traversed by slow trains only, runs from
Reading to Bath via Devizes (70 M. in 4-5 hrs. ; fares 12s. bd., 9s. id.,
5s. lid.). The following are the principal stations. —17 M. Newbury
(Queen; Chequers), with 8000 inhab., formerly the seat of an important
cloth-trade, and the scene of two battles in the Civil War (1643 and
1644), in the first of which Lord Falkland fell (monument on the battle-
field). Branch-lines run hence to Didcot (p. 107) to the N. and Winchester
(p. 76) to the S. —2572 M. Bungerford (Bear; Three Swans), on the Kennel,
a favourite angling resort. April 16th, called 'TuMday', is celebrated with
curious old-lashioned ceremonies. About 4 M. to the N.W. is Litllecote
Hall, a good specimen of a 16th cent, manor-house, containing numerous
family portraits :inrt other objects of interest (notshown). —
34 M. Sartrnake,
 WANTAGE. 15. Route. 107
the junction of a line to (6'/2 M.) Marlborough and (19'/2 M.) Swindon (see
p. 108). Savernake Forest contains a splendid avenue of beeches and some
gigantic oaks. Another line runs 8. to Andover Junction (p. 98). —
50 M.
Devizes ('Bear; Castle), a busy town with an active trade in grain. The
name is derived from its Roman name, Gastrum Divisarum or Ad Divisas.
The old Castle, erected in the reign of Henry I. and destroyed in the
17th cent., has almost completely disappeared. The churches of St. John
and St. Mara have vaulted Norman choirs, and the Museum (adm. 6d.)
contains a fair collection of Wiltshire antiquities. —
At (58 M.) Holt Junc-
tion we cross the Chippenham and Frome line. —61 M. Bradford-on-Avon
(Swan), with the highly interesting little Saxon "Church of St. Lawrence,
which is believed to date from early in the 8th cent. (comp. p. xxxv).
The Bridge is also noteworthy. —
oB'/z M. Limpley Stoke. — 70 M. Bath,
see p. 109.
Reading is also the junction of a line to Basingstoke (p. 76).
Near (4iya M.) Pangboume (p. 220) is Basildon Park, with a
good collection of pictures. Beyond (&43/i M.~) Goring (p. 219), with
an interesting church, the train crosses the Thames for the last
time. From (47 3/4 M.) Moulsford (p. 219) a branch diverges to
Wallingford (Lamb), a small town founded by the ancient Britons,
and surrounded by a Roman entrenchment.
53 M. Didcot Junction (Junction Hotel Rail. Rfmt. Rooms),
;

whence the line to Oxford (R. 30a) and Birmingham (p. 254) diverges
to the N. and one to Newbury (p. 106) to the S.
6O1/2 M. Wantage Road is united by a steam-tramway (fare 6d.)
with (3 M.) Wantage (Bear, R.&A. 3s. 6d.), the birthplace of Alfred
the Great (849-901) and of Bishop Butler (1692-1752), with
a handsome church of the 14th century. A statue of King Alfred,
by Count Gleichen, was erected in the market-place in 1877.
From Wantage a very pleasant walk, (about 10 M.) may be taken by
the Ridgeway or Ickleton Street, a grass -grown Roman road, along the
breezy top of the chalk downs, and then down to Uffingion (see below).
About l'/2 M. on this side of TJffington, near the little village of Kingston
Lisle, is the famous 'Blowing Stone' of King Alfred, described in 'Tom
Brown's School-Days', and supposed to have been anciently used as a military
signal. It lies below a tree in front of some cottages on the road de-
,

scending from the Ridgeway to Kingston Lisle. Various ancient entrench-

ments are visible on the Downs. Instead of descending to the Blowing
Stone we may follow the ridge to the 'White Horse Hill' (see below).
64 M. Challow. From (661/2 M.) Uffington, the home of 'Tom
Brown', with a most interesting E. E. * Church, a branch-line runs
to (31/2 M.) Faringdon (Bell ; Crown), once a residence of the Saxon
kings, now famous for its ham and bacon (40-50,000 swine slaugh-
tered here annually).
About 2i/a M. to the S. of Uffington is White Horse Hill (890 ft.), so
called from the huge figure of a horse cut in the turf, 370 ft. in length
(visible from the railway); it has existed here for over 1000 years and is
said to have been made by Alfred the Great to commemorate his victory
over the Danes at Ashdown (873). At the top of the hill, which commands
an extensive view, i3 Uffington Castle, an entrenchment probably of Danish

not a bit like stairs, but I never saw anything like them anywhere else,
with their short green turf, and tender blue-bells, and gossamer and thistle-
down gleaming in the sun and the sheep-paths running along their
,
 108 Route 15. SWINDON. From London

sides like ruled lines" (Tom Brown's School-Days). —

On the other side
of the Manger is the Dragon's Mill, where St. George is said to have
slain the dragon; and the cromlech known as Wayland Smith's Forge, im-
mortalized in 'Kenilworth', lies on the Ridgeway about 1 M. farther
to the W.
Beyond (Tl 1 /^ M.) Shriveriham the train enters Wiltshire. —
77'/4 M. Swindon (Ooddard Arms, in Old Swindon, 1 M. from
the station; Railway Refreshment Rooms), where the line reaches
its highest point (300 ft.) and most trains stop for 10 min., is the
junction of lines to Gloucester (p. 170), Highworth, Marlborough,
ami Cirencester (direct). About 200 trains pass through the station
daily. Swindon, with a population of 22,500, consists of an old
town, 1 M. from the station, and the new town, a creation of the
Great "Western Railway, occupied almost exclusively by railway
artificers and employes, who are said to draw nearly 300,000i. a
year in wages. The extensive works of the railway-company are
open to visitors on Wed. afternoon. About 50 locomotives are gen-
erally kept here in readiness for service.
About 2 M. to the E. of Highworth (see above), on the road to Fa-
ringdon, and 8 M. to the N. E. of Swindon, is Coleshill House (Earl of
Radnor), a good example of Inigo Jones (1550).
From Swindon to Maelbokough and Saveenake, W/a M., railway
in 3/4-l hr.— 14 M. Marlborough (Ailesbury Arms; Castle & Ball) is known
for its large College, established in 1845 and now one of the great public
schools of England. The oldest part of the college was formerly the man-
sion of Lord Seymour, where Thomson wrote part of his 'Seasons'' while
the guest of the Countess of Hertford. A handsome new chapel was
opened in 1886. — About 6 M. to the W. is "Avebury Circle, one of the
most extensive and interesting monuments of the kind in existence, and
generally looked upon as older than Stonebenge. To the S. of it is
Silbury Hill, a large artificial mound 170 ft. high, supposed to be of
British origin. — 19'/2 M. Savernake, see p. 106.
83 M. Wootton Bassett. From (88 M.) Dauntsey a short branch
diverges to (6 M.) Malmesbury (King's Arms), the birthplace of
Thomas Hobbes (1588-1679), with the ruins of a fine *Abbey
Church (12th cent.) and a Gothic town-cross. William of Malmes-
bury, the chronicler (d. ca. 1143), was a monk in the abbey. About
2 M. to the S. of Dauntsey station is Bredenstoke or Clack Abbey,
incorporating the remains of an Augustine priory of the 12th century.
94 M. Chippenham (Angel; George), an ancient town with 6766
iuhab., deriving its name from A. S. ceapian, 'to buy', is well
known for its corn and cheese markets. It also possesses an iron-
foundry and manufactures silk and cloth. Fine old Norman church.
About 3'/2 M. to the S. E. of Chippenham (2 M. from Calne) is Bo-
wood, the handsome seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne, with a fine col-
lection of paintings of all schools. The park is open to the public. To
the S. of Chippenham (3 M.) lies Lacock Abbey, founded in 1232 as a nun-
nery, but now a private residence.
Chippenham is the junction of lines to Calne (5'/4 M. to the E. ; Lans-
downe Arms), with important pig-killing and bacon-curing industry, and
to T t-owl ridge, Westbury (for Weymouth, Salisbury, etc.), Frome, Witham
i

(Wells, etc.), and Yeovil (p. 102).

Beyond Chippenham the train follows the pretty valley of the
Avon. Near (98^4 M Corsham (Methuen Arms) is Corsham Court,
)
 —

to Bristol. BATH. 15. Route. 109

the seat of Lord Methuen, containing a valuable collection of pic-

tures (upwards of 220, exclusive of family portraits), to which stran-
gers are admitted on written application. The train then enters
the Box Tunnel, l 3/4 M.in length, constructed at a cost of 500,000 1.,
and near (102 M.) Box, famous for its stone quarries, passes into
Somersetshire and re-enters the Avon Valley. lOi^/^M.Bathampton.
107 M. Bath. — Railway Stations. Great Western Station, at the end
of Manvers St., on the S. side of the town; Midland Station (for Gloucester,
Worcester, Birmingham, the Somerset and Dorset line, etc.), in Green
Park, to the W. of the town. — Hotel omnibuses meet the chief trains.
Hotels. 4 Grand Pump Room Hotel (PI. a; C, 2), a large establish-
ment adjoining the baths ; Yobk House (PI. b ; C, 2), York Buildings,
quiet; White Lion (PI. d; C, 3), High St. ; Castle (PI. c; C, 2), Northgate
St.; "Christopher (PI. e; C, 3), near the Abbey, commercial, R. & A.
3s. 6d. ; Rotal (PI. f ; B, 3), Railway (PI. g; B, 3), both opposite the G. W.
R. Station ; Fernley's Temperance (PI. h ; B, C, 3), near the Abbey.
Gabs. For 2 pers., with 2 horses, 1*. 6<J. per mile, 3s. per hr. ; with
1 horse or 2 ponies or mules Is. or 2s. ; with 1 pony or mule or 2 donkeys
6d. or Is. 6d. Each addit. pers. 6<2. per mile. Fare and a half between mid-
night and 6 a. in. Ordinary luggage free. — Bath Chain, Is. per mile or hr.
Tramways starting from the G. W. R. station run through some of the
principal streets to Grosvenor, on the N. side of the town (fares Id. and Id!.).
Music. Band twice daily in the Victoria Parle, Sydney Gardens, or
Institution Gardens (season-ticket 7s.) ; thrice a week in the Pump Room,
where vocal concerts are also given (season-ticket 6s.). — High-class
concerts take place in the Assembly Rooms.
Theatre Royal (PI. C, 2), Beaufort St. ; closed in June, July, and August.
Post Office (PI. D, 2), York Buildings, close to the top of Milsom St.
Bath, the chief place in Somerset, is a handsome town of 53,761
inhab. beautifully situated in the valley of the Avon and on the
,

slopes of the surrounding hills, and is perhaps unrivalled among

provincial English towns for its combination of archaeological,
historic, scenic, and social interest. It is a city of crescents and
terraces, built in a very substantial manner of a fine grey limestone
(oolite) and rising tier above tier to a height of about 600 ft.
,

Among the most characteristic streets are the Royal, Lansdown, and
Camden Crescents, the Circus, and Pulteney Street, all of which
recall similar streets in Edinburgh. Milsom Street is the fashion-
able shopping resort.
Tradition ascribes the discovery of the springs of Bath to an ancient
British prince named Bladud, who was afflicted with leprosy and ob-
served their beneficial effects on a herd of swine suffering from a similar
disease. The therapeutic value of the waters did not escape the keen
eyes of the bath-loving Romans, who built here a large city, with ex-
tensive baths and temples, of which numerous remains have been discovered
(comp. p. 110). Their name for it, Aquae Sulit, was taken from a local deity
Sul, whom they identified with Minerva. For a century and a half after
the departure of the Romans, Bath remained in possession of the Britons,
but about 577 it was taken and destroyed by the Saxons, whose name for
it was Akemanceaster (from a local corruption of Aquae, and man — place).
At a later date it reappears in history! under thejname of Aet Bathum
t'at the bath'), and after the Norman Conquest it became the seat of a
bishop. The beginning of its modern reputation as a watering-place'may
be placed about 1660, but it did not reach the zenith'of its prosperity till
the following cent. , when it became for a time the most fashionable
watering-place in England. This was mainly due to the indefatigable
exertions of the famous master of the ceremonies, Beau Nash (d. 1761),
110 Route 15. BATH. From London

who introduced order and method into the amusements and customs of
the place. Among the innumerable visitors of eminence in the 18th and
early 19th cent, may be mentioned Chatham, Pitt, Canning, and Burke,
Nelson, Wolfe, and Sir Sidney Smith, Gainsborough and Lawrence, Smol-
lett, Fielding, Sheridan, Miss Burney, Goldsmith, Southey, Landor, Miss
Austen, Wordsworth, Cowper, Scott, and Moore. Perhaps no other English
town of the size has oftener been the theme of literary allusion —
from
'Humphrey Clinker' and the 'School for Scandal' down to the 'Papers of
the Pickwick Club'. The competition of the Continental Spas and other
causes afterwards diverted a great part of the stream of guests, and the
'Q.ueen of all the Spas' subsided into a quiet and aristocratic-looking
place, patronised as a residence by retired officers and visited by numer-
ous invalids. Of late years however Bath has shown marked signs of
, ,

revival as a fashionable resort. For some time it was an important

cloth -making centre, and it is mentioned in connection with this in-
dustry in Chaucer's 'Wife of Bath's Tale'.
The hot Mineral Springs to which Bath owes its name are
what is known as a 'lime sulphated water', and are efficacious in
rheumatism, gout, dyspepsia, biliary and liver complaints, and skin-
diseases. The daily yield of the springs is upwards of half-a-million
gallons. The water, used both for bathing and drinking, rises at
a temperature of from 116 to 120° Pahr. , which is reduced,
when required, by means of cooled mineral water. The Pump
Room (PI. C, 2), close to the W. end of the Abbey Church (p. Ill),
is a large edifice in the classical style ,with a motto from Pindar
( Aptatov (xsv 88(op) on the portico. Visitors are admitted free to
the Pump Room, as well as to inspect the various baths, etc. The
charge for a single glass of the mineral water is Id. At one end
of the room is a statue of Beau Nash (p. 109). — Below is a list of
the baths, all of which are within a stone's throw of the Pump Room.
New Royal Baths, adjoining the Grand Hotel (bath 2s. -3s. Gd., fee 3d.;
swimming bath Gd.-is., reserved for ladies on Mon., Wed., and Frid.);
King's and Queen's Baths, Stall St., adjoining the Pump Room (1st class
bath Is. 6d.-3s. Gd., 2nd class Gd.-ls. Gd., fee l-3d.); Royal Private Baths,
Rath St. (1st class 2s., fee 3d.; 2nd class Is. Gd., fee Id.); Tepid Swimming
Bath (88° Fahr.), Bath St. (6d. and 9d.) Gross Public Swimming Bath (73°),
;

at the end of Bath St. (id., with towel Id.); Hot Bath (120°), Bath St.,
for the poor ; Kingston Baths, Church St. The new King's Baths are, per-
haps, the most perfectly equipped baths in Europe.
Th King's Baths stand on the site of the Roman Baths first ,

discovered in 1775, which are supposed to have been founded by

Emp. Claudius and to have occupied an area 900 ft. long and
350 ft. wide. Recently more important discoveries were made, and
the splendid *Roman Baths (PI. C, 2, 3; adm. free 11-1 and
,

3-5) now shown include five large baths (one in a hall 110 ft. long
and 68 ft. wide) , besides several smaller ones with the hypo-
,

causts for heating the different chambers. One of these baths

is still coated with the Roman lead (for details, see Davis's 'Guide
to the Roman Baths'). In 1886 the corner-stone of the new King's
Baths (opened 1889) was laid on 'Roman masonry 1700 years old,
thus connecting in work and object the modern and the ancient
world'. — A little to the N. of the baths is the large General
Hospital, a national institution for poor patients under treatment
 to Bristol. BATH. 15. Route. Ill

with the -waters, and to the S. is the United Hospital, used by local
patients.
The Abbey Church. (PI. C, 3) is a handsome Perp. edifice of
the 16th cent., sometimes called the 'Lantern of England' from
the number and size of its windows. The central tower, 162 ft.
high, is oblong in form owing to the narrowness of the transepts.
The church, 225 ft. in length, is the third which has occupied
the same site. The first was that of a nunnery said to have been
erected here in the 7th century. The second was a Norman cathe-
dral, begun on the transference of the see of Wells to Bath (1090),
and completed in 1160. After the return of the bishop to Wells
in the beginning of the 13th cent. this church
, the nave of
,

which alone was as large as the present building, was suffered

to fall into a state of complete ruin, and Bishop Oliver King (1495-
1503) undertook the erection of a new one. The ladders on the
W. front refer to a dream of this prelate in connection with the
building. The church was finally consecrated in 1616. In 1864-
1875 a judicious restoration was carried out by Sir G. G. Scott,
chiefly at the cost of the Rev. Prebendary Kemble. Bath Abbey
Church is still the secondary cathedral of the diocese of Bath and.
Wells, though since 1542 the chapter of Wells has had the sole
right of electing the bishops, formerly shared with the monks of Bath.
Interior. The most noteworthy features are the fine W. window, the
fan-vaulted roof (added by Scott in accordance with the original design),
and the small chantry of Prior Bird (c. 1500), on the S. side of the chancel,
with its fine carving. Among the numerous monuments , most of them
tasteless, are those of Waller, the Parliamentary general (<1. 1668; S.
transept); Beau Nash (d. 1761; on wall of S. aisle, E. end); Quin, the
actor (d. 1766; at E. end of N. aisle of choir, just by the door, with in-
scription by Garrick grave-stone in the middle of the nave, also with a
;

rhymed inscription); Malthus (d. 1834), the political economist (in the
porch of N. door in W. front); Bishop Montague (d. 1618), an altar-tomb
in the nave; Mary Frampton, with an epitaph by Dryden, on the S.E.
wall; and W. Hoare, E. A., by Chantrey, to the E. of Prior Bird's chapel.
Among the many other churches of Bath the only one demanding
mention is the Roman Catholic Church of St. John (PI. B, 3), in
the South Parade, near the G. W. R. Station, with its graceful spire.
The Royal Literary and Scientific Institution (PI. C, 3; open
11-4; 6d. on Tues. and Frid. free on other days), in the North
,

Parade, near the Abbey, contains an interesting collection of Roman

antiquities found in or near Bath, and also cabinets of geology
and natural history. —
The Ouildhall (PI. C, 3), in High St., to
the N. of the Abbey, has a fine banqueting-room with some portraits
of historical interest. —
Among the numerous schools of Bath are
the New Kingswood School , for the sons of Wesleyan ministers,
and the Officers' Daughters' College, two conspicuous buildings,
1

nearly opposite each other, on the ascent to Lansdown.

The Tictoria Park on the N. W. side of the town, is a well-
,

kept pleasure-ground, 50 acres in extent. It is open free, but when

the band plays, 6d. is charged to non-subscribers for admission to
112 Route 15. BATH. From London

the inner circle. To the E., at the end of Great Pulteney St., are the
Sydney Gardens (PI. D, 4 adm. 3d. ; when the band plays, 6d.).
;

An admirable view of the town, though somewhat circumscribed

by foliage, is obtained from ('/4 hr.) *Beechen Cliff (PI. A, 3; 390 ft.
above the Avon), on the S. side of the town. To reach it we cross
the foot-bridge ('/2^0 behind the G. W. R. Station and ascend
straight on, soon coming to notices which point out the way. At
the top we follow the path along the ridge towards the W., and
regain the town by the Ilolloway and the Old Bridge. — Another
good point of view is Sham Castle, on the hill about l 1 ^ M. to the
E. of the G.W.lt. Station, and best reached by Pulteney Street and
the so-called North Road.
Bath is surrounded with 'Downs', softly rounded hills, the tops of
which afford charming views. The most important are Lansdown (800 ft.,
2 M. to the N.), Claverton and Coombe Down (550ft.; 2-3 M. to the S.),
and Hampton Down (600 ft.; l>/2 M. to the E.), with Sham Castle (see
above). Little Solbury (ca. 600 ft.; 3 M. to the N.E.) is a flat-topped hill
with clearly defined earthworks. A walk or drive over Lansdown as far
as the third milestone, and thence (for walkers only) across the race-course
to (1 M.) Prospect Stile, will afford the visitor one of the finest views in
the W. of England. On the way we pass (2 M.) Lansdown Cemetery, with
the tomb of Beckford of Fonthill (p. 102) and a tower built by him, the
top of which commands an extensive view (Bath not visible). This walk
may be lengthened by returning through North Stoke (with an ancient
church), and thence through Upton or Bitton to the railway.
About 2 M. to the S. E. of Bath, beyond Widcombe (with an old
church and manor-house), is Prior Park, now a Roman Catholic college, but
formerly the seat of Ralph Allen (d. 17G4), the original of Squire Allworthy
in 'Tom Jones
1
.Through his building enterprise and sturdy belief in
the good qualities of the Bath stone, Mr. Allen justly shares with Beau
Nash and the architect Wood the credit of creating modern Bath. Near
Prior Park is Pope^s Tower, erected to commemorate Pope's connection
with the district. W. S. Landor (d. 1864) is buried in Old Widcombe
Churchyard. — The village of Claverton, in the charming Warleigh Val-
ley, 3 M. to the E., is best reached by train to Bathampton (p. 109) or
Limpley Stoke (p. 107). —Farley Castle, reduced to a ruin in the Parlia-
mentary Wars, lies 7 M. to the E. and may be reached by train to Fresh-
ford and thence by a field-path (2 M.). — The old manor-houses of
South Wraxall and Chadfield (near Box, p. 109), in the Tudor style, are
also worth a visit. —
The church and manor-house of St. Catherine's
(5 M. to the N. E., beyond Batheaston), in a pretty valley, both date
from about 1500. —
In a hollow to the E. of Lansdown, H/2 M. from
the town, is Charlcombe, traditionally the mother-church of Bath.
From Bath to Wells (fares 5s. Gd., is., 2s. 2i/2<*.). The quickest
railway-route from Bath to Wells is by the Somerset and Dorset line via
Bvercreech and Glastonbury (see below; l>/2-2 hrs.), but Wells may also be
reached by the G.W.R. via Bristol and Yatlon (see R. 16; 2-2>/2 hrs.) or
via Westbury, Witham, and Shepton Mallet (see below; 2V4-3'/2 hrs.). For
those who do not object to a little walking, perhaps the pleasantest way of
making this excursion is to take the train to (I8V2M.) Masbury (see below)
and walk thence to (3 M.) Wells. — Wells, see p. 123.
From Bath to Gloucester, 41 M., railway in 172-2 hrs. (fares 7s. 6d.,
bs.Sd., 3s. Gd.). The trains start from the Midland Railway Station, and
join the main line from Bristol at (10 M.) Mangotsfield Junction (p. 121).
From Bath to Templecombe, 37 M., Somerset and Dorset railway
in 11/4-2 hrs. (fares 7s. 8d., 6s. id., 3s. id.). The trains leave Bath from
the Midland Station. —
The first part of the route is very pretty. At
(IOV2 M.) Radstock (Waldegrave Arms) we cross the G. W. R. line from
Bristol to Frome. —
At (I8V2M.) Masbury, whence Wells may be reached
«;-i^Sr
t **.

fa

Wagner ADebes -
Geog>Estal>' Lrrpsic
"Warier fcDiji^s'Oo^EsLartLdp
 to Bristol. BRISTOL. 15. Route. 113
by a pleasant walk of 3 M., we cross the Mendip Hills. Beyond Masbury
we have a fine view to the right, including Wells Cathedral and Glaston-
bury Tor (p. 128). — 211/2 M. Sheplon Mallet (George; Hare & Hounds),
the church of which has a fine panelled roof. This is the junction for
the G. W. R. line from Yatton (p. 122) to Witham (p. 126). 261/2 M. —
Evercreech Junction, is the junction for Glastonbury (Wells) and Burnham
(see p. 127). — 29 M. Cole, for Yeovil to the right and Bruton and Westbury
to the left. — From (33 M.) Wincanton (Greyhound; Bear) excursions may
be made to (3'/2 M.) Penselwood and the curious 'Pen Pits', the object of
which is still a bone of antiquarian contention, and to (3V2 M.) Stavordale
Priory. The whole district is rich in early historical interest. At (37 M.)—
Templecom.be (p. 102) we connect with the main S.W. line from London
to Exeter (R. 14), though the Somerset & Dorset trains run on to Broad-
stone and Bournemouth (p. 96).
From Bath to Salisbury, 41 M., Great Western Railway in li/2-2 3 /4hrs.
(fares 8«. 6d., 5s. &d., 3s. 5d.). —
From Bath to (123/4 M.) Holt Junction, see
p. 107. —Our line here turns to the right (S.). 15 3/4 M. Trowbridge (George),
an ugly factory-town, with a good Perp. church (end of 15th cent.). Crabbe,
the poet, was rector here for 19 years (1813-32), and is buried in the chancel
of the church. — From (17 M.) Westbury (Lopes Arms) a line diverges on
the right to Frame (p. 121). There is a fine church at Edington, 41/2 M.
to the W. — 2IV2 M. Warminster (Bath Arms; Lamb) is the station for
"Longleat (41/2. M. to the S.W.), the magnificent seat of the Marquis
of Bath, considered the finest Elizabethan mansion in England (shown
on Wed. and Frid., 11-4). It contains an interesting collection of por-
traits. —
Beyond Warminster we pass two British camps, Battlesbury and
Scratchbury, on the left, and reach (251/4 M.) Heytesbury (Angel), where
Heytesbury Park, the seat of Lord Heytesbury, contains some good Italian
and Spanish pictures. —
At (38'/2M.) Wilton we join the line from Salis-
bury to Exeter (see p. 101). —
41 M. Salisbury, see p. 99.

Continuation op the Railway to Bristol. The first station

beyond Bath is (108 M.) Tiverton, with a large cloth-manufactory
and a cottage in which Fielding is said to have written 'Tom Jones'.
The train now runs parallel with the Bath branch of the Midland
Railway. 1 1 1 M. Saltford. —
At (1 14 M.) Keynsham (Lamb & Lark), a
•

Roman mosaic (Orpheus and the beasts), now at Bristol, was found
during the construction of the railway. A little to the N. lies Bitton,
with an interesting church, parts of which are supposed to be of
ante-Norman date. The difficulties overcome in making the railway
from Keynsham to Bristol will interest engineers. Beyond Bris-
lington the train threads two tunnels and crosses the Avon.
118 /2 M. Bristol.
l —
Hotels. *Rotal (PI. a; E,4), pleasantly situated
in College Green, close to the Cathedral and nearly 1 M. from the station,
with postal telegraph office, R. & A. 4s. 6d., table-d'hote 4*. Gd. ; Grand
(PI. b; F, 3), Broad St., well spoken of, R. & A. from 4». ; 'Royal Talbot
(PI. c; G, 4), Victoria St. —George (PI. d; H, 5), near the station;
Cathedral (PI. f; E, 4), near the College Green; Colston Temperance
(PI. e; E, 4), College Green, well spoken of. —
At Clifton: 'Clifton Down
(PI. g; B, 4), a large establishment, with fine view of the Suspension
Bridge, etc.; *St. Vincent's Rocks (PI. h; B, 4), with a similar view,
suitable for a prolonged stay; Imperial (PI. i; C, 1), near the Clifton
Down Station, well spoken of; Montague Hotel, Kingsdown Parade.
Restaurants. Grand Hotel Restaurant Wine St. Dunlop, Baldwin
, ;

St. ; Miller (Nattris), Wine St. ; The Rummer, in the Market, adjoining the
Exchange; Refreshment Rooms at the Railway Station.
Cabs with one horse Is. per mile 6d. each •/« M. addit. ; with two
,

horses 1*. (M. and 9d. Per hour 2s. 6d. and is. ; each addit. 1/4 hr. Gd. and
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nrl V.i\it.
g
 ;

114 Route 15. BRISTOL. History.

9d. For each passenger beyond two, 6d. extra. Each package carried out-
side 2d. Double fares between midnight and 6 a.m.
Tramways. 1. Fromthe Railway Station (PI. H, 4), to the Drawbridge
(PL F, 4), and to Botwells, below Clifton Suspension Bridge (PI. A, 4),
every 12 min. (fares Id., 2d.). — 2. From the Drawbridge to Redland,
every 12 min. (2d., 3d.). — 3. From J&astville to Redland every 12 min.
(2d., 3d). — 4, 5, 6. From Bristol Bridge (PI. G, 4), to St. George's everv
>/ t hr. (2d.), to Tottenlown every 6 min. (Id), and to Bedminster (PI. G, 6)
everv 10 min. (Id.). —7. From the Drawbridge (PI. F, 4) lo Horfield (2d.).
Steamers ply from Bristol to Ilfraeombe, Cardiff, London, Liverpool,
Glasgow, Plymouth, Penzance, Torquay, Milford, Swansea, Chepstow (in sum-
mer), Belfast, Dublin, Cork, Waterford, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Bordeaux, etc.
Boats. Small boat up and down the Floating Harbour 6d., more than
1 pers. 3d. each ; across the Avon below the Feeder id. and 2d. ; across the
Feeder id. and 2d.; ferry across the Frome id.
Post Office (PI. F, 3), Small St., opposite the Assize Courts.
Theatres. Prince's Theatre (PI. E, 4), Park Row; Old Theatre Royal
(PI. F, 4), Kin- St.
TJ. S. Consul, John D. Delille, Esq.
Principal Attractions. 'Cathedral (p. 117) ; ~St. Mary Redcliffe (p. 115)
"CliftonDown, "Durdham Down, and 'Suspension Bridge (p. 120); St. Peter's
Church & Hospital (p. 116); Mayor's Chapel (p. 118).
Bristol, an ancient and interesting commercial town, the see of
a bishop, and at one time the chief seaport of West England, is
situated at the junction of the Avon and the Frome, 7 miles above
the point where their united waters reach the Bristol Channel. It
lies partly in Somerset and partly in Gloucester, but forms a city
and county of itself. Its trade chiefly with the West Indies,
,

America, and Ireland, is still very important, though it has been

outstripped in the commercial race by Liverpool and other places.
Among the chief of its numerous manufactures are soap, tobacco,
leather, boots and shoes, glass, brass and copper wares, chocolate,
cotton, and sugar (formerly the staple). It possesses a laTge har-
bour and docks, and the Avon has been made navigable for vessels
of large tonnage. The population in 1881, including that of Clifton,
was 206,503. The spring tides rise to a height of 40 ft.
Bristol (Anglo-Saxon, Bright-Stow or Brig-Stow) has no certified
history earlier than the Norman Conquest, but by the 12th cent, it had
attained considerable wealth and importance. The old castle, in which
King Stephen was imprisoned by Queen Matilda, was razed by Cromwell,
and few traces are left of it (p. 116). In the 15-16th cent. Bristol was
the second city of England and. carried on a lucrative trade with all
parts of the world. Among the numerous naval expeditions it sent out
were those of the great explorer Sebastian Cabot (1498, etc.), who was
probably born at Bristol. The fair fame of the city was sullied by the
practice of kidnapping, extensively carried on here to provide labourers
for the American Colonies; and Bristol was also one of the British towns
principally concerned in the slave-trade. In the Civil War the town was
besieged and taken, first by the Royalists (1643), and then by Gen. Fair-
fax (1645), to whom it was surrendered by Prince Rupert with almost no
resistance. In 1831 the discussion of the Reform Bill was accompanied at
Bristol by serious riots, in which numerous lives were lost and an immense
amount of property destroyed. The 'Great Western', one of the first two
British steamers to cross the Atlantic Ocean, was built at Bristol and started
from this port for its first Oceanic voyage in 1838. In 1888 the port of Bristol
was entered by 815 vessels with an aggregate burden of 577,524 tons.
According to Macaulay (History of England', chap, iii) the streets of
Bristol in 1685 were so narrow, that a coach or cart was in danger
 St. Mary Redcliffe. BRISTOL. 15. Route. 115

of being wedged between the houses or breaking into the cellars, 'Goods
were therefore conveyed about the town almost exclusively in trucks drawn
by dogs , and the richer inhabitants exhibited their wealth not by riding
in gilded carriages but by walking the streets with trains of servants in
rich liveries, and by keeping tables loaded with good cheer'. The hospitality
of its wealthy sugar-boilers was famous, and one of their favourite beverages,
made of Solera sherry, was widely known as 'Bristol milk'. Fuller relates
that this concoction was the first 'moisture' given to infant Bristolians,
and it is mentioned with approval in Pepys's Diary (13th June, 1668).
Comp. 'Bristol Past and Present 1
by NicholU and Taylor (1881-2) and
Towns Series'), by the Rev. W. Hunt (1887).
'Bristol' ('Historic

From the Railway Station (PI. H, 4), a handsome modern struc-

ture in the joint occupation of the Great "Western and Midland com-
panies, Victoria Street, traversed by a tramway and passing a more
curious than beautiful Statue of Neptune (16th cent.), leads direct
to the (Y2 M.) centre of the town. [To the right diverges Temple
Street, with the Temple Church, originally erected for the Knights
Templar about 1145, but dating in its present form chiefly from
the 14-15th centuries. The tower is 5 ft. out of the perpendicular.]
We may, however, diverge at once to the left, down Pile Street,
to (5 min.) the church of *St. Mary Bedcliffe (PI. G, 5), the lofty
spire of which is visible as soon as the station is quitted. This
church (usually entered from the S.side) is unquestionably as nearly
faultless an example of its kind (rich Perp.) as exists in the coun-
try, and justifies Queen Elizabeth's description of it as 'the
fairest, the goodliest, and most famous parish-church in England'.
It was founded in the 13th cent., but by degrees rebuilt, mainly
by the Canynges, grandfather and grandson, each 5-6 times Mayor
of Bristol, in the 14- 15th centuries. The most noteworthy fea-
tures of the exterior are the *N. Porch (earlier than the body of
the church but recently restored) the tower
, , and the spire
,

(285 ft. top half modern). The church is 240 ft. long, and 117 ft.
;

wide across the transepts.

Interior (open to visitors free). The narrowness of the nave and
transepts is remarkable, and the latter have the rare addition of side
aisles. The reredos of Caen stone is also very beautiful, while the
Lady Chapel is a blaze of rich colouring. The visitor should also
notice the groined roof and a window in the lower belfry fN.W. corner
of church), in which most of the old coloured glass has been collected
and arranged. There is an effigy of William Canynges the Elder (d. 1396)
in the S. aisle of the nave, and one of the Younger (d. after 1467) in the
S. transept. On one of the piers of the tower, at the W. end of the nave,
hangs the armour of Sir William Penn (d. 1670), father of the founder of
Pennsylvania; and in the adjoining; belfry we are shown a rib of the
famous Dun Cow slain by Guy, Earl of Warwick (comp. p. 243; really
a bone of a whale, said to have been brought home by Sebastian Cabot).
— Above the N. porch is the muniment room in which Thomas Chatterton
(d. 1770), 'the marvellous boy, the sleepless soul that perished in his
pride', professed to have diseovered the Eowley MSS. (shown by the
verger on application). His uncle was sexton of the church. Within
the enclosure to the N.E. of the church is a memorial of Chatterton,
who was born in an adjoining street. —
A long-established annual event
at this church is the Rush-Bearing, which takes places on Whitsunday,
when the Mayor and Corporation attend in state and the floor is strewn
with rushes.
8*
116 Route 15. BRISTOL. St. PetirS.

We now follow Redcliffe Street which leads northwards to

,

(7 min. 3 Bristol Bridge (PI. G, 4), crossing the 'Floating Harbour'

formed by the diversion of the course of the Avon. A statue of
Samuel Morley, M. P. (d. 1886), adjoins the bridge. On the left in
Kedcliffe St., at the corner of Ferry Lane, is Canynges' House (see
p. 115), now forming part of the premises of Messrs. Jefferies and
Sons, publishers, who are always ready to show the Canynges rooms
to strangers. Beyond Bristol Bridge, High St. leads to the centre of
the town, reaching at the end of Corn St. the long line of streets
running N. E. from the Drawbridge (p. 117), which form perhaps
the chief artery of traffic and contain the handsomest shops and
public buildings. In the meantime, however, we leave High St. to
the right by*'Mary-le-Port Street (PI. F, 3), still consisting to a great
extent of quaint houses of the 14-15th centuries. At the end of
the street is *St. Peter's Hospital (PI. G, 3), one of the most per-
fect specimens of domestic architecture of its kind in the W. of
England, originally erected in the 12th cent, and partly rebuilt in
1608. Visitors are admitted to the handsome court-room. The build-
ing was formerly used as a mint, and afterw*rds as a hospital. Close
by is St. Peter's Church, the mother-church of Bristol, the tower of
which (except the upper story) is early-Norman. The poet Savage
(d. 1743) is buried at the back of St. Peter's Church.

Beyond Mary-le-Port St. we pass through Peter Street into Castle

Street (PI. G, 3), taking name from the extensive feudal fortress,
founded probably at the end of the 11th cent., which formerly stood
on this site (p. 114). Scarcely any relic of the castle remains ex-
cept the entrance to the banqueting hall, now incorporated in a pri-
vate house (in Tower St.). Parts of the outer walls may also he seen
amid the modern buildings on the N. and E.
We may now return through Dolphin St. into Wine Street (PI.
F, 3), at No. 9 in which (right) Robert Southey was born in 1774.
To the right diverges the narrow Pithay (Norman putt, a well, and
Jiaie, an enclosure), a genuine though dingy relic of Old Bristol, to which
Macaulay's remarks, quoted at p. 114, still apply literally. Old Tower Lane,
diverging to the left from the Pithay, leads along the line of the old City
Walls, some remains of which are visible, to St. John's Church (see below).
— In Union Street, a little to the N. of Dolphin St., is St. James's Church
(PI. G, 3), one of the oldest in Bristol, still retaining much of the ancient
Norman work. The small circular window is a good example of a fea-
ture more common in foreign than in English Romanesque churches of
the same period.
Wine St. ends junction with High St. (see above), opposite
at the
which Broad W., containing, to the left, the
Street diverges to the
Guildhall (PI. F, 3), a modern building in the Elizabethan style.
At the end is a gateway arch of the old City Wall, strangely sur-
mounted by the spire of St. John's Church (PI. F, 3; 15th cent.),
the body of which was itself part of the wall. Beyond the archway
is Christmas Street, leading to the quaint and steep lane called
Christmas Steps, at the top of which are sonic curious stone seats
 7

Cathedral. BRISTOL. 15. Route. 1 1

and the chapel of a 16th cent, alms-house (1504; dedicated to the

Magi).
Returning to Wine St. we next enter Corn Street (PI. F, 4),
mainly consisting of substantial banks and insurance-offices, among
which the elaborate facade of the Wilts <y Dorset Bank (1853) is
conspicuous. The bank occupies the site of the 'Bush Inn', where
Mr. Pickwick and Mr. Winkle took up their quarters on their
search for Miss Arabella Allen. Adjoining the bank is the Council
House, containing a valuable collection of old plate and a fine por-
trait by Van Dyck. On the other side (left) is the Exchange (PI.
F, 4; 1740), in front of which are four singular metal tables,
known as the Nails These belonged to the Tolsey (mentioned in
' 1
.

Scott's 'Pirate'), the forerunner of the Exchange, and were used by

the merchants for making payments (hence, it is said, the phrase
'pay on the nail'). Three of them bear dates (1594, 1625, 1631).
Nearly opposite the Exchange diverges Small Street (PI. F, 3),
containing the Post Office and the Assize Courts. The latter, form-
ing the back of the Guildhall (p. 116), incorporate Colston's House
(p. 1 19), of which some interesting remains are pointed out to visitors.
Corn St. is prolonged by Clare Street, from which a short street
on the right leads to St. Stephen's Church (PI. F, 4), a late-Gothic
building of 1470, with a fine restored tower, of which Mr. Freeman
notes that it 'is remarkable for having aesthetically dispensed with
buttresses'. Tradition says St. Augustine preached here.
Marsh
Street, to the left (S.), leads to the Central Free Library (PI.
F, the earliest Protestant free library in England (1613), containing a
4),
fine sculptured mantel-piece by Grinling Gibbons. Farther on, beyond
the Custom House, is Queen's Square (PI. F, 4, 5), the principal scene of
the riots of 1831, with an equestrian statue of William III. by Eyshraek.
David Hume was a clerk at No. 16 Queen's Sq. (S. side) in 1734.
Clare Street ends at the Drawbridge over the Floating Harbour,
across or pastwhich nearly all the tramway-lines run. Crossing the
bridge and turning to the left, we soon reach the pretty, open space
named College Green (PI. E, 4), originally the burial-ground of the
abbey (see below) among the buildings round it are the Cathedral,
;

St. Augustine's Church, the Mayor's Chapel, and the Royal Hotel.
Immediately in front is a Statue of Queen Victoria, by Boehm.
The Cathedral was originally erected in the 12th
(PI. E, 4)
cent, (begun in 1142), church of an Augustine abbey, by
as the
Robert Fitzhardinge, a Bristol merchant, and progenitor of the Berke-
ley family. It was, however, rebuilt two centuries later, while the
nave, destroyed in the 14th cent., was rebuilt by Street in harmony
with the choir and transept in 1868. The main body of the structure
is of the Dec. order, resembling in many respects the German Gothic
of the period (13-14th cent), but the Chapter House (1155-1170),
a remnant of the original church, is a fine example of late-Norman.
The Elder Lady Chapel (c. 1210) is good E.E., and the Cloisters
(incomplete) are Perpendicular. The W. front has a deeply recessed
 1 18 Route 15. BRISTOL. Mayor's Chapel.

doorway and two towers (1888). The Tower, 127 ft. high, is a Perp.
addition of the 16th century. The Cathedral is 300 ft. long, 68 ft.
wide, and 56 ft. high. —
The bishopric of Bristol was founded by
Henry VIII. in 1542, and refounded by Pope Paul IV. in 1551.
Since 1836 it has been linked with the diocese of Gloucester (the
conge d'elire being addressed to the two chapters alternately). Daily
choral services at 10 and 4.
Interior. The absence of clerestory and triforium makes this church
unique among English cathedrals, the aisles being of the same height as
the nave, and the arches rising clear up to the spring of the vaulting.
The singular flying arches across the aisles, resembling timber-work, take
the place of the usual flying buttresses. The arches in the aisles of the
Nave are a clever imitation of those in the choir, but the architect (Street)
has allowed himself a few slight deviations from his model, which do
not seem to he improvements.
At the E. end of the N. aisle of the nave are two modern brass tab-
lets of good design, and the remains of an old reredos, destroyed to make
room for a large monument. The North Transept contains tablets to
the memory of Southey, Hugh Conway (d. 1885), and Mary Carpenter (d. 1877),
all natives of Bristol.— On the E. this transept is adjoined by the Elder
Lady Chapel, a pure E.E. structure (ca.1210), containing some grotesque
carvings.
The most striking feature in the Choir is the fine Dec. East Window
(a so-called Jesse window), most of the stained glass in which dates
from the beginning of the 14th cent.; the arrangement of its tracery
symbolises the Trinity. The choir also contains some interesting monu-
ments of the Berkeley family (p. 117) and of the old abbots. Several of
these occupy the singular recesses in the walls, which are characteristic
of this cathedral. A tablet below Abbot Newland's tomb points out
the grave of Bishop Butler (see below). Some of the old miserere car-
vings deserve attention. — At the E. end of the S. choir-aisle is the Berke-
ley Chapel, added about 1340; it is entered by a vestibule containing
some unique work of this period (Perp.). The Sooth Transept contains
a monument to Joseph Butler (1692-1752), author of the 'Analogy', who was
Bishop of Bristol from 1738 to 1750. From this transept we enter the
Cloisters, from the E. side of which we obtain access to the gem of
the cathedral, the 'Chapter House, perhaps the most beautiful Norman
chamber in the kingdom. Its rich mouldings and interlaced arcade are of
the most exquisite workmanship. Like other early chapter-houses in Eng-
land it is rectangular in shape. It contains a curious old carving in stone
(the 'Harrowing of Hell'), somewhat similar to the sculptures at Chichester
Cathedral (p. 55) and believed by some to be of Saxon origin.
The body of the church is open free to visitors, but the sub-
sacristan (gratuity optional) keeps the keys of the Chapter House, Elder
Lady Chapel, and Berkeley Chapel.
To the W. of the Cathedral is *College Gate, an admirably-
preserved Norman archway, with a smaller one by its side, belong-
ing to the old abbey-buildings. The mouldings are very elaborate.
The superstructure, with restored oriel windows, is Perpendicular.
— To the S. of the Cathedral is a fragment of the old Bishop's
Palace , burned by the rioters in 1831 , when the Cathedral was
saved by the vigour and determination of a Nonconformist lawyer. —
On the other (N.) side of College Green, nearly opposite the Cathe-
dral, is the*Church of St. Mark (PI. E, 4), known as the 'Mayor's
ChapeV, a little gem of Gothic (E.E. to Perp.) architecture, contain-
ing some curious old monuments and some old stained glass. [The
 ;

Clifton. BRISTOL. 15. Route. 119

key kept by Mr. Janet, 9 Lodge St. ; comp. PI. E, 3.] In Unity
is
the large new 8chool(Vl. E, 4) of the ancient and still existing
St. is
company of the Merchant Venturers, incorporated in 1551, of which
Sebastian Cabot was the first governor.
Bristol occupies a leading position among English cities for the extent
and number of its charitable institutions ; and the first place among its
philanthropists is unanimously accorded to Edward Colston (1636-1721),
whose memory is kept green by the annual 'Colston Banquets' on Nov.
13th, now utilised for a display of political oratory. The Colston Ball
(PI. F, 4), in Colston St., with a fine organ, is used for public meetings
and popular concerts ; it can accommodate an audience of 2-3000 persons.
Colston is buried in the church of All Saints (PI. F, 3), where a statue
of him has been erected. — The well-known Tttuller Orphanages, origin-
ally established in 1836, and now containing upwards of 2000 children,
are at Ashley Down on the N. side of the town (cab 2s. Bd.). The Or-
phanages are still conducted on the principle of trusting to the volun-
tary and unsolicited contributions of the charitable, and possess no endow-
ments or regular income of any kind. About 1,250,0002. have been received
in this way since the scheme was started, and about 110,000 pupils have
been supported. Visitors are admitted to the different houses on week-
days (Mon. excepted) at 2.30 and 3 p.m. (also 3.30 p.m. in summer); the
most interesting is the oldest, the day for which is Wednesday.
j*rom a visitor's point of view , Fry's Chocolate and Cocoa Works
(1100 hands), in Union St. (PI. F, 3), and W. D. & H. O. Wills's Tobacco
Factory in East Street, Bedmingter (PI. G, 6), are among the most interest-
ing of the large manufactories of Bristol. — The charming little 'Arno'*
Vale Cemetery, at the S.E. corner of the town, contains the grave of
Robert Hall (d. 1831).
The pleasantest approach to the high-lying and beautiful suburb
of Clifton (Hotels, see p. 113) is from College Green, either through
Park Street (PI. E, 4) or over Brandon Hill (PI. D, 4 260 ft. ;

*View). — We may also reach the foot of the Suspension Bridge

by tramway (see p. 114).
PaTk Street ascends from the N. "W. angle of the Green. No. 10
is the house in which Hannah More and her sisters kept a school.
To the left diverges Great George St.. Farther up, to the right,
stands the large and handsome Blind Asylum (PI. E, 3 open to ;

visitors on Mon., "Wed., & Thurs., 11-12 & 2-4; concert on the first
Mon. of each month at 3 p.m.). Adjacent is the Bristol Museum
(PI. D, 3 adm. 6d. on Sat. and Mon. 2d.), containing a fine statue
; ;

of Eve by Baily, collections of natural history, geology, industrial

products, and antiquities, and a library of 60,000 volumes.
Behind the Museum, in Tyndall's Park, is Bristol University College
(PI. D, 3), opened in 1876, and attended by students of both sexes. There
is a Medical School affiliated to it.— To the N. of the College is Bristol
Grammar School, founded in 1531.
Beyond the museum, Park St. is prolonged by Queen's Road,
in which, straight in front of us, we soon see the Victoria Rooms
(PI. D, 3), a handsome building in a Grecian style, with Egyptian
details. Opposite it (to the right) is the Fine Arts Academy (PI. D, 3),
containing a collection of modern paintings. An annual Exhibition
is held here in spring (adm. Is. ; Qd. on holidays).
From this point White Ladies Road, to the right, leads straight
to Durdham Down (nearly 1 M.), passing near Clifton Down Station
120 Route 15. l'.lilSTOL. Clifton Down.

(p. 121 PI. C, 2) and the mouth of the long tunnel (1 M.) extend-
;

ing hence below the Downs to the Avon. The nearest way to ('/2 M.)
Clifton Down and the Suspension Bridge is to the left, through
Queen's Road (PI. C, 3), and then, at Victoria Square (PI. 0, 4),
to the right. The lofty spire of Christ Church (PI. B, 4), situated at
the E. end of Clifton Down, now serves as our land-mark.
*Clifton Down (PI. A, 1-4; 235 ft.) is an elevated grass-grown
plateau of limestone formation, dotted with fine trees and fringed
with the villas of well-to-do Bristolians. On the W. it is hounded
by the Avon, here flowing through a deep and highly picturesque
gorge, the rocky wall of which is named *St. Vincent's Rocks. In
the face of the rocks is the Giants Cave (view), formerly used as
an oratory, now approached from the observatory (tunnel 6d., ob-
servatory 6tf.). The gorge is crossed by a noble ^Suspension Bridge
(PI. A, 4; toll Id.), with a single span of 700 ft. and 250 ft. above
the surface of the water it originally spanned the Thames at Hun-
;

gerford near Charing Cross, but was re-erected in its present position
in 1864. On the height adjoining the bridge is an Observatory
(315 ft.), containing a camera obscura and commanding a lovely
view. On the W. bank, a little below the bridge, a deep wooded
hollow known as *Nightingale Valley descends to the river-gorge,
and both here and on the Observatory hill are extensive traces of
British earthworks, with later Roman modifications. A zigzag path
descends to the Hotwells, which have been known for 400 years
hut have now completely outlived the reputation they enjoyed in
the days of 'Humphrey Clinker' and Miss Burney's 'Evelina'. All
that now remains is a pump erected by the Merchant Venturers.
Those whose time is limited may return to Bristol from the Hotwells
by tramway; but even the most hurried visitor should at least go as far
as the centre of the bridge in order to enjoy the view up and down
stream. [The Avon is a tidal river, and it is very desirable to visit the
bridge at high water, when its ugly, muddy bed is covered.] Those who
have more time should either cross the bridge to the beautiful Leigh
Woods on the other side of the Avon, or continue to follow the route
described below.
To the N. , Clifton Down is continued by *Durdham Down
(310 ft), which has been secured for public use. By crossing Durd-
ham Down on the river side we reach the ( 3/4 M.) Sea Wall, which
commands a tine view. A
little farther on is a picturesque tower,
known as Conk's Folly, now forming part of a villa. On the land-
ward side of Durdham Down are the ^Zoological Gardens (PI. B, 2;
a dm. 6<L). Nearer Clifton is Clifton College (PI. B, 2), founded in
1862, now attended by 650 pupils, and ranking among the chief
public schools of England. Its close forms one of the prettiest
cricket-grounds in the country. Near the College stands All Saints
(PI. C, 2), a modern church by Street, noticeable for the unusual
design of its nave and aisles. — We may return to Bristol by the
tramway starting from St. John's Church (PI. C, 1) and traversing
White Ladies Road, or by train from Clifton Down Station (PI. C, 2).
 Environs. BRISTOL. 15. Route. 121

Excursions. About 3'/2M. to the N.W. of Clifton lies King's Weston, a

country-house on the Avon, with a beautiful park. Adjacent, to the E.,
is King's Weston Down, with a well-defined British camp, and to the W.,
Penpole Point, commanding a charming view. At the S.W. base of the latter,
near the mouth of the Avon , is the village of Shirehampton (see below).
Ahout IV2 M. to the N. of King's Weston, in a pleasant dale, is Blaize
Castle, containing a fine collection of paintings. The grounds (visitors
admitted on Thurs. after previous application) command excellent views
of the Bristol Channel and the coast of S. "Wales. On Blaize Hill is
another of the numerous ancient entrenchments round Bristol. —Dundry
Church, with its fine tower, 4 M. to the S.E., on the top of a lofty down
(790 ft.), is a fine point of view and itself a conspicuous object in the
view from Clifton Down (p. 120)< — Among the more distant points of
interest within the limits of a day's excursion from Bristol are Chepstow
and Tintern Abbey (p. 176), Wells (p. 123), Glastonbury (p. 126), the Ched-
dar Cliffs (p. 122), Bath (p. 109), Weston (p. 126), and Clevedon (p. 122).
Fhom Bristol to Portishead, IIV2 M., railway in '/2-8/« hr. (fares
2s., Is. 4d., il l /id.). The line skirts the 8. bank of the Avon, passing
Clifton Bridge, Pill, and Poribury. — Portishead (Boyal Pier Hotel) is a
small watering-place and residential suburb on the Severn estuary.
From Bristol to Avonmouth, 9 3/< M., railway in >/2 nr (fares Is. 6<2.,
—
-

Is. id., 9<Z.). This line passes the suburban stations of Lawrence Hill,
StapletonRoad, Montpellier, and Clifton Down (p. 120), penetrates the Downs
by a tunnel 1740 yds. long, and emerges on the E. bank of the Avon near
Cook's Folly (p. 120). &/t M. Sea Mills; l 3 /t M. Shirehampton (see above). —
9 3/4 M. Avonmouth (Hotel) has a pier and extensive docks (now belonging
to the city of Bristol).
From Bristol to Severn Tunnel Junction (for S. Wales) 17 M., ,

G. W. Railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 5s., 3*. 8d., 2s. 6d. or 2s.). — The first
stations are Lawrence Bill and Staplelon Road, the birthplace of Hannah
More (d. 1833). Near Ashley Hill are the Orphan Asylums of George
Muller (see p. 119). Beyond Filton and Patchway the train passes through
a tunnel 3 /t M. long and reaches Pilning. At New Passage passengers for-
merly left the train to cross the estuary of the Severn by steamer. In
Pec, 1886, however, the "Severn Tunnel, one of the greatest triumphs
of railway engineering, was opened for passenger traffic, and travellers
keep their seats. The estuary here is upwards of 2>/4 M. wide, but the
total length of the tunnel is 4'/' ". The crown of the arch is at a depth
below the bed of the river varying from 40 ft. to 100 ft. The tunnel is
26 ft. wide and 20 ft. high, and is traversed by two lines of rails. The
difficulty of construction was greatly increased by the frequent flooding of
the tunnel by land-springs tapped in the progress of the work, and the
total cost was nearly two millions sterling. The tunnel shortens the
direct railway journey from London to Newport by 14 M. and that from
Bristol to Newport by 55 M. ; and it has led to the opening of an im-
portant new railway route from the W. of England to the N. of England
and Scotland. — We join the South Wales Railway at (17 M.) Severn
Tunnel Junction (comp. p. 192), on the other side of the Severn.
From Bristol to Frome, 24</4 M., G. W. Railway in I-I1/4 hr. (fares
—
5s. Gd., 3s. 9d., 2s. 3d.). The most important intermediate stations are
(7 M.) Pensford (interesting on account of the great stone circles of Stanton
Drew, 1 M. to the W.) and (16 M.) Radstock (Waldegrave Arms). —
24y2 M.
Frome (Crown; George), a thriving agricultural and woollen-manufacturing
town, possesses a noble Dec. chuTch, splendidly restored by the Rev.
W. J. E. Bennett, the late incumhent (d. 1886). Bishop Ken (d. 1711) is
buried in the graveyard, under the chancel-window. At the W. end of
the church, outside, is the Bennett Memorial Cross. The church is ap-
proached by a set of stone 'Stations of the Cross', erected by Mr. Bennett.
We here join the line from Chippenham and Westbury to Yeovil (comp.
pp. 108, 102). Longleat (p. 113) lies 3 M. to the S.E.
From Bristol to Gloucester, 37!/2 M., railway in I-IV2 hr. (fares
5s., 3». li/2<*.). 3 M. Fish Ponds. At (6V2 M.) Mangolsfield our line
unites with that from Bath. From (11 M.) Yale a branch-line diverges to
 ;

122 Route 16. CLEVEDON. From Bristol

Iron Acton and (8 M.) Thornbury (Swan), the latter with a fine cruciform
church and a large Tudor castle, built by the Duke of Buckingham in 1511
hut never tinished (p. lvi). To the right, 6 M. off, lies Badminton, the large
house and park of the Duke of Beaufort. —
15 M. Wickwar. Near (17 M.)
Charfield, to the left, lies Tortworth Court, the seat of the Earl of Ducie;
the park contains the largest chestnut in England, 50 ft. in circumference,
and mentioned in a document of the 13th century. —
From (22 M.) Berkeley
Road a branch-line diverges to Lydney (p. 192) and the Dean Forest
(p. 177), crossing the Severn by a magnificent bridge at Sharpness (p. 192).
The first station on this branch is (2 M.) Berkeley (Berkeley Arms), a small
town with 1200 inhab., the birthplace of Edward Jenner (1749-1823), the
discoverer of vaccination. "Berkeley Castle is an ancient baronial castle,
with a moat and keep, still occupied as a dwelling (Lord Fitzhardinge
open on Tues. and Frid., 2-4). It contains some portraits of the Berkeley
family, the cabin furniture of Admiral Drake, and other interesting relics.
It was in this castle that Edward II. was murdered in 1327. —
24 M.
Coaley Junction is the station for DursUy (Old Bell), a small wool-manufac-
turing town, with a Dec. church. —27 M. Frocester (p. lvi); 28'/2 M.
Slonehouse, the junction for Nailsworlh and Stroud. —
37'/2 M. Gloucester,
see p. 170.
From Bristol to Taunton and Exeter, see B. 16

16. From Bristol to Exeter.

Wells.
75'/2 M. Gkeat Westekn Railway in 13/4 -4 hrs. (16s. 6d., 12s. 8d\, 6s.
—
3'/2<J.). The train passes through a flat country, with few views of the sea.
Beyond the suburban station of (1 M.) Bedminster the train
affords a view of the Suspension Bridge (p. 120) to the right and
passes between Dundry Hill (790 ft. p. 121) on the left and Leigh
;

Down on the right. 5 M. Flax - Bourton ; 8 M. Nailsea; 12 M.

Yatton, the junction for Clevedon and "Wells, with an interesting
church, visible to the left of the line.
Clevedon (Royal; Rock; Pier, E. & A. from 3s. Gd. ; Bristol), a small
watering-place 4 M. to the N.W., is much frequented by the Bristolians.
Henry Hallam (d. 1859), the historian, and his son Arthur, the subject of
Tennyson's 'In Memoriam', are buried in Clevedon pariah-church (St. An-
drew's). Coleridge lived at Myrtle Cottage here for some time after his
marriage and the abandonment of his Susquehanna scheme(1795). "Clevedon
Court, the 'Castlewood' of 'Esmond', a fine old baronial mansion, with a
facade of the 14th cent., was seriously injured by fire in 1882; visitors
are admitted to the grounds on Thurs., 12-3. Above Clevedon rises Dial
Hill, an excellent point of view; at its base are the ruins of Walton
Church and Walton Castle. About 4 M. to the N.W. is a British entrench-
ment named Cadbury Camp.

Fkom Yatton to Wells, 18 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 3s. 5d.,

2s. 8d., Is. 8d. or ls.5'/2 d-)- The flrst station is (1V2 M Congresbury,
2 M. to the E. of which is Wrington, the birthplace of John Locke
(1632; cottage still standing), with a fine church-tower. 8 M. —
Axbridge (Lamb), an ancient little town, with interesting brasses
in its church. — Near (9*/2 M.) Cheddar (Cheddar Cliffs Hotel;
Bath Arms) are *Cheddar Cliffs (400-500 ft.) the highest lime-
,

stone cliffs in the country, and the *Cheddar Caverns, containing

interesting stalactites (adm. to each of the two principal caves Is.;
Cox's by far the finer).
 to Exeter. WELLS. 16. Route. 123

The environs of Cheddar comprise many other charming points for

excursions, among which may be mentioned Black Down (.1065 ft.)i the
highest of the Mendip Hills, 3 M. to the N. The pastures of the district
are very rich, and 'Cheddar Cheese' has long been famous. — About 3'/s M.
to the S. of Cheddar station is Wedmore, where King Alfred made peace
with the Danes in 878. The interesting church dates from the 13-15th
centuries.
167-2 M. Wookey is the station for the Wookey Hole, a curious
cavern, near which large quantities of bones (elephant, hyaena, etc.")
have been found.
18 M. Wells. — Hotels. Swan, Sadler St., near the cathedral, well
spoken of; Stak, High St.; Mitre, Sadler St., B. & A. is. — There are
two Railway Stations at Wells, the Great Western, and that of the Somer-
set & Dorset Line (comp. p. 112).

Wells, a small and ancientcity with 4600 inhab., is prettily

situated at the foot of the Mendip Hills. It has been the see of a
bishop since the 10th cent, (see below) and is perhaps the most
characteristic cathedral-city in England (Plan, see p. 115).
In Wells the interest of 'the cathedral church and its appurtenances
is not only primary but absorbing. They are not only the chief orna-
ment of the place; they are the place itself. The whole history of Wells
is the history of the bishoprick and of its church. It was never a royal
dwelling-place; it was never a place of commercial importance; it was
never a place of military strength. The whole interest of the city is
ecclesiasticar {Freeman's 'History of the Cathedral Church of Wells').
The "Cathedral, dedicated to St. Andrew, is, in its present
condition, predominantly an E.E. building of the first half of the
13th cent., and Bishop Joceline (1206-1242) is commonly called
the 'Fundator Alter', though recent researches assign a considerable
share in the work to Bishop Fitz- Joceline (1174-91), one of his pre-
decessors (comp. p. xlv). It is the third church on the same site.
The first (perhaps of wood) was erected in the 8th cent, by the
Saxon king Ina, as a collegiate church for a body of secular clergy.
This was afterwards replaced by a Norman cathedral (1135-66), some
fragments of the masonry of which still Temain. The bishopric was
founded in 909 by Edward the Elder, as the bishopric of Somerset,
and for a time the see was afterwards removed to Bath (comp.
p. 111). The church as designed by Bishop Joceline was finished
by the erection of the Chapter House at the end of the 13th century.
Thereafter a complete transformation of the E. part of the church
seems to have been taken in hand, beginning with the Lady Chapel
(ca. 1320), while the Presbytery, as it now stands, dates from about
1350. The upper part of the Central Tower, 165 ft. high, also be-
longs to the early part of the 14th century. The Vicars' Close was
added in the 14th cent, and partly altered in the 15th. The upper
part of the W. Towers and Cloisters are Perpendicular. —
Though
comparatively small in size (383 ft. long; 82ft. wide across the
nave and aisles ; 67-73 ft. high), Wells Cathedral takes rank among
the finest churches in England, and some authorities do not hesitate
to give it the first place of all. The best general *View of it is
obtained from the Shepton Mallet road, about l /t M. from the city.
1 24 Route 16. WELLS. From Bristol

Mr. Freeman asserts that the group of ecclesiastical buildings at Wells

has no rival either in its own island or beyond the sea. 'To most of
these objects, taken singly, it would be easy to find rivals which would
equal or surpass them. The church itself cannot from mere lack of bulk
hold its ground against the soaring apse of Amiens, or against the windows
ranging, tier above tier, in the mighty eastern gable of Ely. The cloister
cannot measure itself with Gloucester or Salisbury; the chapter-house
lacks the soaring roofs of York and Lincoln; the palace itself finds its
rival in the ruined pile of St. David's. The peculiar charm and glory
of Wells lies in the union and harmonious grouping of air. It has pre-
served its ancient buildings and arrangements more perfectly than any
other English cathedral; and it has been uninterruptedly in the possession
of a chapter of secular canons. Comp. the Introduction, p. xliii.
We enter the Cathedral Close by Browne's Gate (the 'Dean's
Eye'), in Sadler St., or by the Penniless Porch ('Palace Eye'), in
the market-place, built by Bishop Beckington (1443-1464). The
chief exterior glory of the Cathedral is the beautiful West Facade,
147 ft. wide, and most elaborately adorned with arcading and sculp-
tures (600 figures in all). It was the first part of the present church
to be completed, and has lately been restored with great care and
tact. The sculptures, which are believed to be the work of native
artists, were added about 1280, almost at the same time that Nic-
colo Pisano was reviving the art of sculpture in Italy. Beautiful
as this facade is, it shares with the W. fronts of Lincoln and Rouen
the reproach of being architecturally a mere mask, since the towers
are really placed outside of the aisles of which they affect to form
the ends. The North Porch, with its fine mouldings, is a noteworthy
example of the beginning of the E.E. period. Before entering the
Cathedral we should also notice the exterior of the Chapter House
and the curious gallery running along the Chain Gate and connecting
the church with the Vicars' Close.
Interior (services at 10 a. m. and 3 p. m.; adm. to choir 6<f.). The
best view of the interior, which has been restored, is obtained from the
W. end, and the general effect is rich and imposing. The Nave, which
is 192 ft. long, is somewhat narrow in proportion to its height, and it
has the distinct character (according to Mr. Freeman) of having its main
lines horizontal rather than vertical. Among the first features to strike
the eye are the curious inverted arches inserted in 1338 to prop up the
central tower, and forming the general outline of a St. Andrew's Cross. The
foliage of the capitals is very elaborate, and is interspersed with birds
and animals. The triforium is carried backwards over the aisles. At the
E. end of the nave are two interesting Chantries of the 15th cent. (Bishop
Jiubwith, d. 1424; Hugh Sugar, d. 1489), and on the S. side, in the centre,
is a Minstrels' Gallery, also of the Perp. period. The stained glass in the
W. window dates from the beginning of the 16th cent., and was mainly
brought from abroad. The colouring on the vault a modern reproduc-
is
tion from traces of the original design. The stone pulpit was erected in
1541-47. — The Transepts resemble the nave in general character and
are flunked with aisles. The capitals of the piers here are very rich and
quaint. The fan-vaulting above the cross is fine. The S. transept contains
some interesting monuments, including the remains of the Perp. chantry
of Bishop Beckington (d. 1464). In the N. transept, the W. aisle of which
is shut off by a Perp. screen and divided into two chapels, is a curious old
Clorl\ with figures set in motion at the hours, originally constructed by a
monk of Glastonbury about 1325 (works modern ; original in S. Kensington
Museum).
The "Choir, which is separated from the nave by a Perp. screen
 to Exeter. WELLS. 16. Route. 125
surmounted by the organ, forms with the Presbytery and Lady Chapel
one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical interiors in this country. The
general style is Early or Geometrical Decorated. The stalls are modern,
but the old misericords have been preserved. The fine window at the
E. end and the adjoining windows in the clerestory are filled with ancient
glass; and a memorial window to Bishop Ken (d. 1711) was inserted in
theN. aisle in 1885. At the back of the altar is a low Screen, forming the
end of the choir proper. The Presbytery, in a rich Dec. style, is connected
with the Lady Chapel by a small transept containing four chapels. Bishop
Joceline (p. 123) is interred in the centre of the choir, though his tomb
has been destroyed ; and there are several interesting monuments of bishops
and others in the aisles and chapels.
The apsidal termination of the cathedral is formed by the'LADi Chapel,
with its 'matchless grouping of slender pillars and no less matchless har-
mony of colour It also belongs to the early Dec. period, and the stained
1
.

glass, made up chiefly of fragments from other parts of the church, is of

contemporary date. The Chapel of St. John, or S.E. transept, contains a
brass of 1618 with a curious Latin epitaph.
The octagonal "'Chapter House , with its beautiful Geometrical
window-tracery, dates from about the year 1300, and is a fine example
of the period. The ribs of the vaulting radiate from a large shafted column
in the centre. The Chapter House is reached from the Cathedral by a
beautiful "Staircase, with admirable details, ascending from the E. aisle
of the N. Transept and leading also to the bridge above the Chain Gate
(p. 124). The separation of the Chapter House from the Cloisters is not
unusual in churches of the old or secular foundation. Below the Chapter
House is a curious Undercroft or Crypt (entered from the N. choir-aisle),
containing various antiquarian relics.
The Central Tower, ascended by a staircase from the S. Transept,
affords an extensive *View.— From the S.W. corner of the same transept
we enter the spacious Perp. Cloisters, which have no walk on the N.
side. The Chapter Library is over the E. alley of the cloisters.
To the S. of the Cathedral, beyond the cloisters, is the picturesque
"Episcopal Palace, built by Bishop Joceline (p. 123) and surrounded with
a moat and bastioned wall by Bishop Ralph of Shrewsbury (1329-63). The
most interesting features are the ruins of the Great Hall, added in 1274-
92, and the Dec. Chapel. The actual residence of the bishop is on the E.
side of the quadrangle. The vaulted lower floor, originally used fur cel-
lars, has been converted into a dining-room and entrance-hall. The grounds
are shown by the lodge-keeper on application (sometimes also the crypt).
— On the N. side of the Cathedral stands the Deanery, a good example of
a mansion of the 16th cent., with turrets, buttresses, and battlements. It
has suffered considerably from modern restoration, but not so much as
the Archdeaconry (late 13th cent.), a little farther to the E., opposite the
N. porch. Some of the Canons'' Houses are also interesting 15th cent,
buildings. Another important member of the group of ecclesiastical build-
ings at Wells is the "Vicars' Close, a highly picturesque enclosure, con-
taining a chapel, a library, a common hall, and residences for several
priest and lay vicars (originally 42). One house has been restored to its
original condition as in the 16th century. The Vicars' Close communi-
cates with the Cathedral by a unique Gallery or Bridge (1460), passing
above the Chain Gate (comp. p. 124).
After the cathedral group the most interesting building iii Wells
is St. Cuthberl'sChurch, near the G.W.It. station, originally an E.E.
edifice, but transformed in the Perp. period. The W. tower is par-
ticularly fine. Near this church are Bishop Bubwith's Almshouses.
— A good view of the city is obtained from the Tor Hill, on the
way to which we pass the copious Springs of St. Andrew, the chief
of the 'wells' that give name to the city. They feed the moat of
the Episcopal Palace.
126 Route 16. GLASTONBURY. From Bristol

Among the short excursions in the neighbourhood of Wells the most

popular is that to Wookey (see p. 123), 2 M. to the W.
A branch-line runs S. from Wells to (5'/2 M.) Glastonbury (George,
a quaint 15th cent, structure; Grown; Red Lion), an ancient town, re-
nowned in fable as the spot where Joseph of Arimathcea founded the first
Christian church in England, and as the Isle of Avalon, where King Arthur
and Queen Guinevere were buried. In sober fact "Glastonbury Abbey t
can trace its foundation back to the 6th cent, and is 'the one great in-
stitution which bore up untouched through the storm of English Conquest,
the one great tie which binds our race to the race which went before
us, and which binds the church of the last 1300 years to the earlier days
of Christianity in Britain' (Freeman ; comp. p. xxxiv). King Ina founded
a monastery here in the 8th cent, and dedicated it to SS. Peter and Paul ; and
in the 10th cent. St. Dunstan, who was born and educated at Glastonbury,
built a church of stone to the E. of the primitive British church of wattles
and timber. These two churches stood side by side till the 12th cent.,
when both were pulled down to make way for a Norman edifice on a
larger and grander scale. Scarcely was this finished, however, when it
was burned down by a fire, which also destroyed the ' Vetusta Ecclesia'',
or little wicker chapel of the early missionaries, carefully kept as a sacred
relic. Henry II. immediately began to rebuild the church on a yet larger
scale, and it was finished about a century after his death. Its length
when completed was 528 ft., and it covered the entire area occupied by
the two earlier churches. The Abbey was suppressed and dismantled by
Henry VIII., who hanged the last abbot on Glastonbury Tor. The ruins,
now in the grounds of a private house (adm. 6d.), were long used as the
stone quarry of the district and are thus comparatively scanty. The most
interesting are those of the "Chapel of the Virgin or St. Joseph, erected
by Henry II. on the exact site of the Vetusta Ecclesia, at the W. end of
the great church which he began. There also exist a transeptal chapel,
parts of the S. wall of the nave and choir, two piers of the great
tower, and some traces of the cloisters. Nearly all are in the transition
Norman style, but the crypt below St. Joseph's Chapel is a 15th cent,
addition. The most important relic of the secular buildings of the abbey
is the massive stone Kitchen, with four large fire-places, probably dating
from the 14th century. Among the buildings which led Mr. Parker to
describe Glastonbury as 'a perfect store of domestic antiquities' are the
George Inn (see above), originally erected as an inn for pilgrims to the
abbey; the so-called Tribunal, also in the High St.; and the Abbofs Barn,
in Chilkwell St. The church of St. John the Baptist has a fine Perp. tower.
An Archaeological Museum was founded at Glastonbury in 1837. The site
of the Glastonbury Thorn, which sprang miraculously from Joseph of
Arimathsea's staff, and always blossomed on Christmas Day, is marked by
a stone inscribed 'I. A. A. D. XXXI'. (on Wearyall Hill, to the right of the
road from the station to the town). The tree was cut down by a Puritan
fanatic. — A good view of the abbey and district is obtained from the top
of Glastonbury Tor (500 ft.). The tower is a relic of an old pilgrims' chapel.
— Close to Glastonbury is Shapwich Moss, a happy hunting-ground for bot-
anists. — From Glastonbury to Highbridge and. Templecombe, see p. 113.
Beyond "Wells the railway from Yatton runs on to Shepton Mallet
(p. 113) and Witham (p. 112).

Beyond Yatton (p. 122) the Mendip Hills come into sight on
theleft. At (16% M.) Worle a short loop-line diverges to (2 M.)
Weston-super-Mare (Royal, 'pens', from 10s. 6d. Imperial; York;
;

Pier; Claremont; Railway; Plough), a fashionable and well-shel-

tered watering-place with 12,885 inhab. , situated on the Bristol

t See Willis^ 'Architectural History of Glastonbury Abbey'.

 to Exeter. BRIDGWATER. 16. Route. 127

Channel opposite the islands of Steep and Flat Holm. The beach
is marred by the muddy deposits of the Severn, but the bay affords
abundant opportunity for rowing and sailing. One of the favourite
promenades is the iron pier connecting the mainland with the
rocky islet of Bearnback. There is also a long esplanade.
Among the numerous pleasant points near Weston-super-Mare areWoWe
Hill (306 ft.), I /* M. to the N., crowned hy an old camp and commanding a
1

magnificent view ; Uphill Old Church, 2 M to the S., on a rocky promon-

.

tory affording an extensive view, Woodspring Priory (adm. 6<J.), 4 M. to

the N. ; Brean Down, projecting into the sea to the S., beyond Uphill.
2174 M. Bleadon-Vphill. At (24'/4 M.) Brent Knoll the coni-
cal green hill of that name rises to the left. —
We now cross the
Axe and reach (27 M.) Highbridge, where the G. W. Railway inter-
sects the Somerset and Dorset line from Burnham (Queen's Cla- ;

rence), a small watering-place l'^M. to theW., to(12M.) Glaston-

bury (p. 126 ; fares 2s. Id., ls.8d. Is.), Evercreeeh Junction (p. 112),
—
,

and Temjplecombe (p. 102). 30 3 /4 M. Dunball.

33Y4 M. Bridgwater (Royal Clarence; Bristol; Railway), an an-
cient town of 12,000 inhab., on the Parrett, 6 M. from the sea. It
was taken by storm by Gen. Fairfax in 1 645. The handsome Church
of St. Mary, dating from 1420, possesses a slender spire, 175 ft.
high, and contains a valuable altar-piece ('Descent from the Cross')
of the Italian School. St. John's is a tasteful modern edifice. The
'Bath Bricks' manufactured here are made of the peculiar slime
deposited by the river. During spring-tides the Parrett is subject
to a 'Bore', or tidal wave, 6-9 ft. in height; similar phenomena are
observed on the Severn and a few other narrow rivers where the rise
of the tide is considerable. Bridgwater was the birthplace of Admiral
Blake (1599-1657), the house still standing near the iron bridge.
About 5 M. to the S.E. of Bridgwater lies Sedgemoor, where the
Duke of Monmouth was defeated in 1685: the last light deserving the
name of battle that has been fought on English ground. — At Nether
Stowey, 8 M. to the W., Coleridge lived in 1796-98 and wrote his 'Ancient
Mariner'. In 1797 Wordsworth was his neighbour at Alfoxden House.
Nether Stowey lies near the Qucmtock Hills, among which numerous
pleasant excursions may be made.
The train now follows the valley of the Tone to (39 M.) Durston,
whence a branch-line diverges to Yeovil (p. 102). [The first station
on this branch is Athelney , the reputed scene of King Alfred's
legendary adventure with the cakes.] To the right rise the Quantock
Hills (see above). The fine church-towers of Taunton soon come
into sight on the left.
45 M. Taunton (* London; Castle; * Railway; Clarke's; Nag's
Head, plain, R. &A. 2s. 3d.), the county-town of Somersetshire,
is an ancient and well-built town with 16,610 inhab., situated in
the picturesque and fertile vale of Taunton Deane. The church of
*St. Mary Magdalene is a large and good example of the Perp. style,
with double aisles, a finely carved roof, and a fine modern pulpit.
The tower, 155 ft. high, is elaborately embellished with pinnacles,
battlements, and carvings. St. James's Church has also a good tower.
 ;

128 Route 16. MINEHEAD.

The Castle, originally founded about 700 A.D., dates in its present
form from the lith cent., with additions of the 13th and 15th cen-
turies. It now contains the interesting museum of the Somersetshire
Archaeological Society (adm. 1d.~). The GreatHall, entered from the
inner ward, was formerly the Assize Court; and it was here that
Judge Jeffreys held the 'Bloody Assizes' of 1685, when hundreds of
prisoners were condemned to death or the plantations. The other
most prominent event in the history of the town is its memorable
defence by Adm. Blake against the Royalists in 1645. Among the
other chief buildings are the large Independent and Wesleyan Col-
leges (visible to the right and left as we continue our journey; see
below), the Barracks, the Shire Hall, and the Somerset County Club.
From Taunton to Minehead, 2i 3 /t 31., G. W. Railway in V/t hr.
(fares 5s. 3d., is., 2s. 3d. or 2s. l fed.). This line forms the direct railway-route
to Exmoor and Lynton (see R. 21) from the K. — The train diverges from
the main-line at (2 M.) Norton Fitzwarren and follows a beautiful valley
between the Quantock Hills on the E. and the Brendon Bills on the W.
5 M. Bishop's Lydeard, with a Perp. church; 9 M. Crowcombe Heathfleld;
ll 3/4 M. Stogumber; 15 M. Williton; 16 3/4 31. Watchet (West Somerset Hotel),
a pretty little seaport. —
19 M. Washford (Inn) is the station for "Cleeve
Abbey, an interesting Cistercian ruin, : /2 M. to the S. (adm. Is.), the chief
features of which are the gate-house (13th cent.), part of the cloisters
(15th cent.), the dormitory, the refectory (15th cent.), the common room,
and the foundations of the church. —
20/4 M. Blue Anchor. — 23 M. Dunster
(Luttrell Arms, a quaint 16th cent, house), with a majestic Elizabethan
castle (seen to the left of the railway), situated in a large park, to
which visitors are admitted on Tues. and Frid. (tickets at the inn). Ad-
jacent is Conegar Mill, surmounted by a tower. The Church is a Perp.
(nave) and E.E. (choir) edifice, with a fine Perp. screen.
24 3/4 M. Minehead (Beach Hotel, close to the station and the shore,
R. & A. 4s. ; Feathers, in the town, '/j M. from the station, well spoken
of) is a rising little watering-place at the E. base of North Hill, with a
fair beach, an esplanade, golf-links, etc. It is a good starting-point for
exploring Exmoor (see p. 16'i), and the Exmoor Stag Hounds hold some of
their meets in the vicinity. In summer coaches ply twice daily to (7 M.)
Porlock and (19 31.) Lynmouth (see p. 166). Among the pleasantest points
in the vicinity are Dunster (2'/2 M.; see above), Cleeve Abbey (6 M.; see
above), Oreenaley Point (l ! /2 M.), Bossingion Beacon (5'/2 M.), Selworthy (5M.
on the way to Porlock), Orabhurst Hill, near Dunster, and the Brendon
Hills (see above).
From Taunton to Barnstaple, 44 V2 M., railway in l 3 /4 hr. (8s. 6<2.,
6s. Id., 4s. 3d. or 3s. 9<J.). This line, skirting the S. slopes of Exmoor Forest
(p. 164), forms the direct railway approach to Ilfracombe (p. 161). — The first
stations are Norton Fitzwarren (see above), Miloerton, (9 M.) Wiveliscombe,
Venn Cross, and Morebath. —
From (21 M.) Dulverton (Carnarvon Arms, at
the station ; Red Lion, in the village), which lies 2 H. to the N. of the
line, a visit may be paid to (5'/2 M.) the For Steps, a rude stone bridge
over the Barle, whence the pedestrian may go on to (19 M.) Lynton (p. 166).
From Dulverton a branch-line descends the valley of the Exe to Bampton,
(12 M.) Tiverton (see p. 129), and (26 M.) Exeter (p. 103). — The next im-
portant station is (3'i M.) South Molton (George), a small market-town,
whence there is a fine drive over Exmoor, via Simonsbath (p. 168), to
(20 31.) Lynton (p. 166). —
Farther on the train passes Castle Hill, the seat
of Earl Fortescue and crosses the Bray by a viaduct 100 ft. high. —41 31.
Swimbridge. — ;
441/2 31. Barnstaple, see p. 163. From Barnstaple we may
go on by railway to Ilfracombe (p. 161: through-carriages from Taunton)
or Bideford (p. 159), or by coach to (18 M.) Lynton (p. 166; 5s.).
From Taunton a branch-line also runs to llminster (George) and (15 M.)
Chard (p. 102) in 3
/t hr.
 TEIGNMOUTH. 17. Route. 129

52 M. Wellington (Squirrel King's Arms), a small town from

;

which the Duke of "Wellington takes his title. It lies at the foot of
the Black Down Hills, one of which is crowned with the (1 hr.)
Wellington Monument. The train now passes through the White
Ball Tunnel, 5/g M. in length, and enters the county of Devon,
renowned for its leafy lanes and wooded 'combes' or hollows
(Welsh cwni), for its clotted cream and its cider. —
From (603/4 M.)
Tiverton Junction a branch diverges on the right to (7 M.) Tiverton
(Palmerston; Angel), a town of 10,500 inhab., pleasantly situated
at the confluence of the Exe and the Leman, and long represented
in Parliament by Lord Palmerston. It contains a large Church of
the 15th cent., the remains of an old Castle, BlundeWs Orammar
School (an old foundation), and a Lace Factory employing 1500
workpeople. To Dulverton and Exeter, see p. 128.
63 M. Collumpton (White Hart), a small town of great anti-
quity, has an interesting church of the 16th century. The line
uow follows the valley of the Culm.
751/2 M Exeter, see p. 103.
-

17. From Exeter to Plymouth.

a. Great Western Railway.
53 M. Railway in ls/4 -3 hrs. (fares 11*. 6d., 7*. 10d., 4». V/id.).
The Great Western Railway from Exeter to Plymouth tra-
verses a picturesque district, and affords a constant succession of
charming views. Soon after leaving Exeter (p. 103) we obtain a
fine view, to the left, of the mouth of the Exe. Beyond (41/2 M.)
Exminster, to the right, is Powderham Castle, seat of the Earl of
Devon (visitors admitted 11-5, in the absence of the family, on pre-
vious written application to the steward). 81/2 M. Starcross (Courtenay
Arms), the station for Powderham, lies opposite Exmouth (p. 105).
12 M. Dawlish (London ; Albert; Royal), a favourite little sea-
bathing resort, under the lee of the Oreat Haldon (818 ft.). The
bathing arrangements here are much better than those at most Eng-
lish watering-places, a comfortable dressing-pavilion connected ,

with the sea by a small tram-car, being substituted for the usual
miserable bathing-machines. —
Near Dawlish the train reaches
the coast and trends to the right. To the left is the curious
1

detached rock known as the 'Parson ; the 'Clerk' and other similar
rocks, which formerly stood close by, have been washed away.
16 M. Teignmouth (Royal, on the Den, facing the sea; Lon-
don; Queen's), a large watering-place, prettily situated at the
mouth of the Teign, which is here spanned by a long bridge of
34 arches, 1670 ft. long. From the middle of the grassy promenade
called the Den a handsome pier runs out into the sea. Numerous
pleasant walks and drives in every direction, one of the pleasantest
being to the top of the Little Haldon (800 ft.).
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 9
 ;

ViO Route 17. TORQUAY. From Exeter

The line now skirts the estuary of tlioTeign, commanding a good

view of the Haytor and Rippon Tor on Dartmoor (p. 137), as it
bends round t —
20 M. Newton Abbot (*6lobe, Commercial, in the town, y 2 M.
from the station; Queen's, near the station), a pleasant little town
in the valley of the Leman the junction of lines to Moreton
,

Hampstead and to Torquay and Dartmouth. Its two lions are Ford
House (on the Torquay road), a good specimen of the Tudor style,
and the Stone on which William III. was first proclaimed king
of England in 1688 (in the centre of the town). The Grammar
School celebrated.
is A little to the W. is Bradley House, parts of

which date from the 14th century.

Fkom Newton Abbot to Moreton Hampstead, 12 M., railway in
i/2- 3 /.ihr (fares 2s., ls.6d., Is. 2d.). This line affords the most convenient
approach to the E. side of Dartmoor (p. 137). The first part of it follows
the valley of the Teiyn (pron. Teen). —W\i M. Teigngrace ; 4 M. Heath-
field, the junction for (2V« M.)
Chudleigh, Trusham, and (6>/2 M.) Athlon.
Chudleigh (Clifford Arms) is frequently visited for the sake of''Chudleigh
1

abruptly from
Rock (fine view from the top), a b od limestone crag rising
a wooded ravine, which is traversed by a
small stream. In the rock are
Cavern (with stalactites adm. bd.) and
two interesting caverns: Chudleigh ;

the Pixies' Hole. Other pleasant excursions may be

made from Chudleigh.]
excursions
6 M. Bovey Tracey (Union; Dolphin) is a good centre for
to (3 M.)' Haytor, (4 M.) Manalon, etc. The coach
mentioned at p. 105 starts
Bovey Tracey was long the demesne of the Tracey family, and the
here
parish-church is said to have been built and dedicated to St. Thomas ot
Canterbury by Sir William Tracey, one of the archbishop's murderers.
little village,
8V2 M Lustleigh (Cleave Hotel), a romantically-situated rock-girt and
is the station for visitors to (1 M.) "Lustleigh
Cleave, a
is a pile of
boulder-strewn upland valley. On one of the enclosing hills
delicately poised
rocks known as the Nutcrackers, from a logan stone so
as to crack a nut in its oscillation. Lustleigh is
also the nearest station
21/2-M. to the W., sur-
for Manaton (Half Moon), a beautiful little village
rounded by tors (views). Bowermaris Nose, 1 M. from Manaton, is a
resemblance to a man, seated.
curious natural formation, bearing some
\ walk may also be taken to (1 M.) the Becky Falls
and Horsham Steps.
a small town
12 M Moreton Hampstead (White Hart; White Horse),
mainly
with 2000 inhab., on the E. skirts of Dartmoor, is visited by tourists
Chagford
as a stepping-stone to the more suitable headquarters
at (p. 1„»),

5 M to the N.W. (omn.). A good road leads from

Moreton Hampstead
across Darlmoor to (12 M.) Two Bridges (p. 138),
whence we may go on
or to (b M.)
to (8Vs) Tavistock (p. 137), to (9 M). Horraoridge (p. 136),
1'rincetoun (p. 136).

From Newton Abbot to Torquay and Dartmouth, 15 M., G.W.

Railway in 1-1 1/4 hr. (fares 3s. Yd., 2s. id., Is. 6d.)
2 1/2 M. —
Kingskerswell; 5 M. Torre, the station for the N. part of Torquay.
Torquay station is on the W. margin of the town.
6 M. Torquay (Plan, see p. 138). — Hotels. Imperial (PI.
a;

C, 0, a large establishment, finely situated in

grounds overlooking the sea,
M. from the station (cab B.2s. Qd.-ls., A. Is. 6d., tabled hote 5s.
2s.)-,
1V-.
Gd~, B. 2-3s., toilet lights Is. 6d., board (R. & A. extra) 10s 6<J. —
'Torbay
(Pl d- C, 3) to the W. of the harbour, with
sea-view, R. & A. from 4s. bd.
ViCTOEii & Albert (PI. e, B, 3), Belgrave Koad; Royal (PI. b), Queen s
the harbour (PLC, 3),
(PI c), in the centre of the town, overlooking
commercial and family hotels; Western (PI. U
A, 3), at the railway-
station- Jordan's Temperance, unpretending.
—
Numerous Private Hotels,
 —

to Plymouth. TORQUAY. 17. Route. 131

Boarding Rouses, and Lodgings. — The hotel omnibuses meet the prin-
cipal trains.
Cab with one horse for 1-3 pers., for 1/2 M. 6d., 1 M. Is., 2 M. 1*. Gd.,
each addit. '/ill. 6d. ; for more than 3 pers. 1*., Is. 6<J., 2*. 6<J. By time:
2*. or 3*. per hr., 1*. or is. 3d. for each addit. i/2 hr.; after 9 p.m. (7 p.m.
in winter) minimum fares 1». Gd. or 2s. Luggage up to 112 lbs. free (for
the station-cabs, 2d. for each package carried outside).
Steamers and Sailing Yachts make excursions in summer. — Bowing
Boat 1j. per hr. ; with boatman, 1*. Gd. for the 1st, lj. for each addit. hr.
Bathing Machine Gd. — Public Baths at the head of the Pier (PI. C, 4).
Theatre in Abbey Road; performances daily in the winter season.
A Band plays daily (12-1) on the Strand.
Torquay, a town of modern growth, with 30,000 inhab., beauti-
fully situated at the N. W. angle of Tor Bay, is a favourite resort
of persons with delicate chests, on account of its mild and equable
climate; and it contests with Brighton and Scarborough the title of
Queen of English watering-places. In winter the thermometer
seldom descends to 36° Fahr., while in summer the maximum heat
is about 77°. The town occupies a considerable space of ground,
spreading over a number of small hills, which rise in terraces above
the sea and are dotted with well-built villas embosomed in a
,

luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation scarcely paralleled elsewhere in

England. 'It reminds one of Newport', says an American writer, 'in
the luxuriousness of its foliage, the elasticity of its lawns, and its
masses of flowers'. The bathing and boating are excellent, and the
environs abound in charming walks and drives. An admirable
view of the town is obtained as we approach it from the railway-
station, but it is seen to greatest advantage from a boat in the bay.
In the town itself almost the only points calling for notice are the
Harbour and Pier (adm. id.; PI. C, 4), the ruins of Tor Abbey
(PI. A, 3; 12-14th cent.; not open to the public), and St. Michael'*
Chapel (PL A, 1 ; E.E.), on a commanding site near Torre station.
The *Museum (PI. D, 3; adm. Is., or by member's order), in the
Babbacombe road, chiefly contains a well-arranged collection of
the bones found in Kent's Cavern (p. 132). The Church of St.
John (PI. C, 3), a modern Gothic edifice, is a handsome and pro-
minent feature of the town. The industrial specialty of Torquay is
the manufacture of articles in terracotta ; visitors are admitted to the
works of the Torquay Terracotta Co. at Hele Cross, near ToTre station
(PI. A, 1), and the Watcombe Terracotta Co. (p. 132). Torquay is
an important yachting station, and an annual regatta is held here
in Aug. or Sept., while good packs of fox-hounds and harriers
are within easy reach. Beyond the Imperial Hotel a public walk,
commanding a good view of the bay, leads to a spot called the
Land's End, in the rocks beyond which is a natural arch known as
'London Bridge' (PI. D, 4). Daddy Hole Plain (PI. D, 4), the elev-
ated plateau above, is another good point of view; we reach it by
retracing our'steps to the Parkhill Road (comp. PI. C, D, 4).
Excursions. The following 'Walk need not take more than a short
half-day, unless prolonged by boating or bathing. Starting from the harbour
9*
132 Route 17. DARTMOUTH. From Exeter

we pass through Torwood St. and ascend the Babbacombe road (PI. D, E, 3)
till we reach a point where a notice-board indicates the way to Kent's
Cavern. Here we turn to the right and soon diverge from the road to
the right (sign-post) to visit Kent's Cavern (PI. E, 2 5 open 10-5; 1-3 pers.
Is. 6<J., each addit. pers. 6<2.), a limestone cave less interesting for its extent
or stalagmites than for the extraordinary quantity of bones and flint
implements found here, and their important testimony to the antiquity
of man (comp. p. 131) — We then return to the road and follow it to the
foot of the bill, where a sign-post shows the uphill way to the left to
O/2 M.) *Anstey's Cove (PI. F, 1). A notice-board to the right, with an
inscription in verse, marks the point where we leave the road to descend
to this pretty little bay, where boats and bathing-machines may be
hired. — We may now either cross the ravine and take a path along the
cliffs, or return to the road and follow it to (1 M.) Babbacombe (PI. D, 1;
Royal Hotel), where we descend to the right (sign-post) to 'Babbacombe
Bay, another rock-girt bay, where beautiful effects of colouring are pro-
duced by the white beach, the red cliffs, the green trees, and the blue sea.
Boats may be hired here, but bathers must go on to Oddicombe Beach,
forming an additional wing of Babbacombe Bay. Simple refreshments
may be obtained in the quaint little Cary Arms Inn. The 'View from
Babbacombe Down embraces a long line of coast in both directions. At
Mary Church, adjoining Babbacombe, is a handsome modern Roman
Catholic Church. From Babbacombe we may go on by boat or by road
to (P/i M.) Watcombe, with its imposing OiantRock and its terracotta works ;

or we may return direct across Warberry Hill (PI. D, 2; view) to (2 M.)

Torquay. — With the above excursion may be combined a visit to Jlsham
Grange (PI. F, 2), a farm-house of the 15th cent., formerly belonging to
Tor Abbey, and situated at the head of a beautiful combe.
To the W. a pleasant walk may be taken through typical Devonshire
lanes to (l 3/4 M.) Cockington , with its ivy-clad church; (4 M.) Marldon,
the church of which (14-15th cent.) contains several monuments of the
Gilberts of Compton (see below) ; and (5 M.) Compton Castle (now a farm),
erected in the first half of the 15th century. Longer excursions may be
made to (8 M.) Berry Pomeroy Castle (p. 134) , Dartmouth and the Dart
(see below), Teignmouth (p. 129; by the coast), Dartmoor (p. 137), etc.
On resuming the railway - route to Dartmouth we soon reach
(8 M.) Paignton (Esplanade, table d'hote is. 6d. Oerston ; Com-
;

mercial), with an interesting church and an excellent sandy beach.

— From (1072 M.) Churston a branch diverges on the left to
(2 M.) Brixham (Bolton ; Globe), a small fishing-town with a statue
of William III. erected to commemorate the two hundreth anni-
,

versary of his landing here in 1688. About 1 V4 M. to the E. is Berry

Head, with traces of Roman occupation; and in the other direc-
tion, not far from the Bolton Hotel, is Brixham Cavern, second to
Kent's alone in the interest and extent of its bone relics.
The railway ends at (14Y2 M.) Kingswear (Royal Dart), whence
passengers are ferried across the Dart to —
Dartmouth. [Castle opposite the landing-stage King's Arms,
, ;

Commercial, unpretending), a quaint little seaport of 5600 inhab.,

with a roomy and very picturesque harbour, formerly of much
greater importance than at present. It is mentioned by Chaucer
in the Prologue to the 'Canterbury Tales' ('Dertemouthe'). Steam-
ers for the Cape of Good Hope leave Dartmouth once a fortnight.
The interesting old *Church of St. Saviour's (14th cent.), on the way
towhich we pass the quaintly-carved arcade of the so-called Butter
Walk (1640), contains a coloured wooden screen, galleries with
 to Plymouth. TOTNES. 17. Route. 133

the carved and gilt arms of the merchant families of Dartmouth,

a curiously carved stone pulpit, a massive oaken frame round the
altar-piece, a fine brass slab to John Hawley (in front of the altar),
and oaken pews for the Corporation. —
A pretty tree-shaded road
leads along the Dart to the (1 M.) Castle at its mouth, now fitted
up as a coast batteTy (fine view from the top of the castle-mound).
Adjacent is St. Petrock's Church.
From Dartmouth a charming excursion may be made up the river
Bart to (10 M.) Totnes (see below) by a small steamer plying daily in summer
(l'/4 hr. ; fare Is. 6d., is. 3d.). As we leave Dartmouth we pass the Bri-
tannia training-ship. Our first stopping-place is (3 M.) DiUisham, opposite
which is Qreenway Souse, at one time the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh,
who is said to have been in the habit of smoking his pipe on the 'An-
choT Bock' in mid-stream (marked by an iron 'anchor'). Beyond (6V2M.)
Duncannon we enter the prettiest part of the course, the winding reaches
of Sharpham, wooded down to the waters edge. — The landing-place at
Totnes is about 1 j* M. below the bridge (see below).
A coach runs daily from Dartmouth to (15 M.) Kingsbridge (fare 3*.).
The route follows the coast past ffVaM.) Stoke Fleming (old church) to (6 M.)
Slapton Sands (Sands Hotel) and (8 M.) Torcross Hotel ('pens'. 6s. Gd.)
and then leads inland (to the right) to Charlton and Kingsbridge. Slapton
Lea is a small lake, affording excellent perch, pike, and roach fishing.
Pedestrians may follow the coast to (4 M.) Stai-t Point (Lighthouse),
(5 M.) Prawle Point (Inn), and (6 9.; in all 15 M.) Salcombe ("Marine
Hotel, on the estuary, with gardens, 3-3'/2 gs. per week; Victoria; King's
Arms), a charming little watering-place on the W. side of the estuary
(ferry), whence a small steamer plies to (6M.) Kingsbridge (King's Arms;
Albion), a pleasant-looking little town at the head of a small arm of the
sea. The climate in this corner of Devonshire is so mild that oranges,
citrons, myrtles, and aloes nourish in the open air all the year round.
— From Kingsbridge coaches run to (10 M.) Kingsbridge Road (p. 134 ; fare
2s.), the nearest railway-station, and to (20 M.) Plymouth (p. 139; thrice
a week, 2s. 6d.) via Modbury. Kingsbridge also communicates with Ply-
mouth by steamer.

Continuation op Railway to Plymouth. Beyond Newton Ab-

bot the train leaves the valley of the Teign, threads a tunnel, and
descends into the valley of the Dart, which it crosses at Totnes.
29 M. Totnes (Seymour, Seven Stars, near the bridge Castle, ;

at the head of the main street) is an ancient little town of 4100

inhab., 'hanging from E. to W. on the side of a hill' (Camden) and
containing numerous quaint old houseswith piazzas and projecting
gables. From the station we ascend to the castle (p. 134) by the
road passing a sign-board which indicates the way to the Castle Hotel
and leading through an old gateway (North Gate).
Arriving by water (see above) we cross the bridge and ascend
the steep main street (Fore Street), passing a road leading to the
right to the station. Farther up, also to the right (in the pavement),
is the so-called 'Brutus Stone', the very stone, according to hoary
tradition, on which Brutus of Troy first set foot on landing in Bri-
tain Beyond this we pass through the ohl East Gate, spanning
!

the street, and reach the *Church (key at a cottage on the N. side), a
good Perp. building (15th cent.), with a fine tower. The interior
134 Route 17. IVY BRIDGE. From Exeter

(restored) contains a carved stone rood-screen, a good "W. window,

and a curious monument (W.end) of Kit Blackball and Ms four wives.
At trie Castle Hotel, a little farther up the main street, we turn
to the right and reach the entrance to the *Castle, the grounds en-
closing which are open to the public (free ring). The only relic
;

of the Castle , a Norman foundation

ascribed to a follower of the
Conqueror is the keep , consisting of two circular stages placed
,

one on the top of the other, like a larger and smaller cheese. Fine
view from the top (to the W. two curiously-clipped yews). A shady
walk skirts the moat on the W. side of the castle-enclosure.
Totnea is the nearest railway-station to "Berry Pomeroy Castle (adm.
lid.),a picturesque ivy-clad ruin, 2^4 M. to tlie E. The castle was origin-
ally erected in the Norman epoch, hut the oldest existing parts date from
the 13th century. In its prime the mansion was so extensive that it 'was
a good day's work for a servant but to open and shut the casements'.
About 2 M. to the N. of Totnes is Partington, with an old Hall. The
Dart above Totnes is also pretty. At Little Hempston is a well-preserved
quadrangular rectory of the age of Richard II. (1377-99), with a great hall.
Fbom Totnes to Ashburton, 9'/s M., railway in '/2 hr. (fares Is. lid.,
Is. 5d., Vlzd.). This pretty little line ascends the valley of the Dart and
forms an easy approach to the S. part of Dartmoor. —3 M. Staverton,
with a picturesque bridge across the Dart. -1M. Buckfastleigh (King's
Arms), a small serge-making town, with an old Cistercian abbey ( 3 /4 M.
to the N., on the river), lately rebuilt by French monks.
9'/2 M. Ashburton (London; Golden Lion), a 'Stannary' town (see
p. 137), with a handsome church, is a starting-point for various Dartmoor
excursions. The favourite is that through the "Buckland Drive and Holne
Chase (open on Tues., Thurs., and Sat.), to theN., a round of about 10 M.
(carr. and pair 15s.). About 1 M. above Holne Bridge, on the Dart, is a
fine piece of rock scenery called the Lover's Leap. Another pleasant walk
or drive is that to (3 M.) Buckland Beacon, (2 M.) Rippon Tor, (i l /i M.)
Ilaytor, and (?j\ M.) Rock Inn, whence we may go on to (3 M.) Bovey Tra-
—
cey (p. 130) or (5 M.) Lustleigh (p. 130). Widdecombe in the Moors, with
a handsome Perp. church (the 'Cathedral of Dartmoor'), lies 6 M. to the N.,
near the centre of the moor. Two Bridges (p. 138) is 12 M. to the W. Holne
(Inn), the birthplace of Charles Kingsley (1819-75), lies 3 M. to the W. of
Ashburton.
Beyond Totnes the line, skirting the S. base of Dartmoor, passes
through a very pretty district. Before reaching (36M.) Brent (Carew
Arms) we penetrate a long tunnel. —38 M. Kingsbridge Road, the
station for (10 M.) Kingsbridge (p. 133). —
As we approach (41 ^M.)
Ivy Bridge (^London; King's Arms), the pleasantest headquarters
for exploring S. Dartmoor (see p. 137) we cross a lofty viaduct
,

(110 ft. high), from which we enjoy a charming glimpse to the

right up the valley of the Erme. The view to the left is also at-
tractive. From the Blatchford Viaduct, 2 M. father on, another
fine view is obtained to the right. Beyond (43'/2M.) Cornwood
the train crosses another viaduct and descends to (47y 2 M.) Plymp-
ton (George), the birthplace of Sir Joshua Reynolds, with an old
grammar-school (17th cent.) which he attended. We then cross
the Plym, come in sight of the fortifications of Plymouth, pass the
suburban stations of Mutley and North Road and enter the Mill
,

Hay Terminus at (53 M.) Plymouth (see p. 139).

 to Plymouth. OKEHAMPTON. 17. Route. 135

b. South Western Railway.

59 M. Railway in 2-3 hrs. (fares 11». 6d., Is.lOd, it. id.). This line
skirts the N. side of Dartmoor (p. 137).

From Exeter to (11 72 M.) Yeoford, see p. 103. Our line here
diverges to the left (S.) from the line to Ilfracombe. An omnibus
plies regularly from Yeoford to (11 M.) Chagford (p. 138). —
17 M. Bow, beyond which Cawsand Beacon (1800 ft.), an outlying
spur of Dartmoor, is visible to the left. Beyond (19^2 M.) North
Tawton we cross the Taw and pass (22'/2 M.) Sampford Courtney.
26 M. Okehampton (White Hart; Plume of Feathers), a small
town on the N. margin of Dartmoor, with the remains of a partly
Norman castle (3/iM. to theW.). Yes Tor (see p.138) may be ascended
hence without difficulty in about 2 hrs.
From Okehampton to Holsworthy, 20 M., railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 4*.,
2». 10<2., 1*. 8d). —
This branch-line is the most direct route to Bude
(p. 156). 6'/2 M. Ashbury (820 ft.; Eastacombe Hotel), in a breezy situa-
tion. — From (10 M.) Ilalwill a branch diverges to (13'/2 M.) Launceston
(see below; 'fclir.; fares 2*. 9d., 2*., Is. V/id.).
20 M. Holsworthy (Stanhope; White Hart), with a church possessing a
lofty Perp. tower. A coach plies hence twice daily in summer to (9'/2 M.)
Bude (p. 166 ; fare 2s. 6d.)i passing Stratton (p. 15B). The Holsworthy & Bude
Canal, constructed in 1819-26, is interesting for its inclined planes, in-
genious substitutes for the ordinary locks.
Beyond Okehampton we obtain a view of its castle to the right,
and cross the Okement by the Meldon Viaduct. From (32>/2 M.)
Bridestowe ('Briddystow') we may ascend Great Links Tor, 2 M. to
the E. of the station. (The village is 1 !/2 M. to the W. of the railway.)
A good Dartmoor walk may be taken from Bridestowe along Tavy
Cleave, skirting 'a magnificent range of castellated tors', to Lidford.
36 M. Lidford (Manor Hotel; Castle, in the village; Bail. Re-
freshment Rooms), which is also a station on the G. W. R. system
(see below), is an ancient place with the remains of a castle and
was formerly a Stannary town. The old Stannary Court here was
notorious for its abuses, and 'Lidford Law', like 'Jeddart Justice'
(p. 456) hanged a man first and tried him afterwards. About
,

i/ M. to the W. of the G. W. R. station is Lidford Cascade, 100 ft.

2
in total height (fee 2d.) its volume may be much increased by
;

letting off the water in the mill- pond above (fee). The (1 M.)
*Lidford Gorge (bridge) is among the finest ravines of its kind in
England (path open on Mon.).
From Lidford to Launceston, 12 /2 M., G. W. Railway in '/2 hr. (fares
j

2«. 5d., 1*. 9d., Is.). The intermediate stations are (i J2 M.) Coryton,
l

with the fine Elizabethan mansion of Sydenham and

noble trees 0/t M.
its
to the W. of the station), and (8 M.) Liflon. Beyond the latter we enter
Cornwall and follow the winding course of the Tamar.
12'/2 M. Launceston (Kings Arms; White Hart; Railway), an ancient
town with 5500 inhab., situated on the slope of a steep hill, from which
it derived its original name of Dunheved ('hill top'). The hill is crowned
with the circular keep and parts of the walls (12 ft. thick) of a Castle,
at one time supposed to be of British^ origin, but now recognised as a
Norman work (view). In a small dungeon, near the E. gate, George
Fox, the Quaker, was imprisoned in 1656. The church of St. Mary Mag-
136 Route 17. TAVISTOCK. From Exeter
dalene, lately restored, is a handsome granite edifice in the Perp. style,
with curious carvings on the outside of the walls. At the White Hart
Hotel is a fine Norman gateway, forming the sole relic of an old Augustine
priory; and near the King's Arms is another gateway of later date, which
originally belonged to the town-walls.
Launceston is the nearest railway-station to Tintagel, Boscastle, and
Camelford (see R. 19) , and has become of greater importance as an access
to this part of the Cornish coast since the opening of the new S.W. line
from Halwill (1886; see p. 135), which enables the company to run through-
carriages from London to Launceston (223V2 M., in 6 1 /2-7hrs. ; fares 44s.
Id., 81s. Id., 18s. 3'/2<Z.). Coaches ply daily from Launceston, in connection
with the morning -express from Waterloo (reaching Launceston about
4 p.m.), to Camelford (p. 153; 16 M., 21/4 hrs., 4s.), Wadebridge (p. 153;
27 M., 4 hrs., 6s. 6d.), and Padstow (p. 15a ; 35 M., 5 hrs., 8s. &d.), connect-
ing on Mon., Wed., & Frid. with the coach to New Quay (p. 144), and
on Tues., Thurs., & Sat. with that to Bude (p. 156; 20 M., 4»/4 hrs., 6s.
and 5s.). None of these routes repay the pedestrian.
The ascent of Broun Willy (see p. 153) is sometimes made from Laun-
ceston (4 hrs.). We follow the road to Camelford for 3 M., then diverge
to the left and pass (4 M.) Five Lanes (Inn). About 2 M. farther on we
leave the road and cross the moors to the W. (right), reaching the top
in 1 hr. more. View from Brown Willy and ascent, of Row Tor, see
p. 154. The descent may be made to Camelford or Bodmin (p. 144).
Fbom Lidfoed to Plymouth by the G. W. R., 23 M., in 1 hr. (fares
—
To the right rises Brentor (see below). Beyond
4s. 10<Z., 3s. 3d., Is. lid.).
(3 M.) Mary-Tavy, also to the right, is Kelly College, for the sons of naval
officers. — 6 M. Tavistock, see p. 137.
Beyond Tavistock the train threads a tunnel and passes the village
of Whitchurch on the left. Fine views of the W. slopes of Dartmoor. —
10 M. Borrabridge (Roborough Arms) is the station for Buckland Abbey,
a Cistercian foundation of the 13th cent., with lies l'/z M. to the S.W.
There are few remains of the old buildings, but the mansion, which be-
longs to the representatives of the Drake family, contains some relics of
Sir Francis. The village, Buckland Monachorum, has an interesting church.
— H1/2 M. Yelverlon (Rock Hotel), the junction of the line to Princetown.
[From Yelveeton to Peincetown, IOV2M., railway (Dartmoor Railway)
This line ascends rapidly in a series of
in V2 hr. (fares 2s., Is. 8d., lO^fed.).
sharp curves, the average gradient being 1 65. The views in all directions
:

are charming, and the construction of the railway itself is an object of

interest. — l'/2 M. Dousland, the station for Walkhampton, with its con-
spicuous Perp. church. The 'Tors' of Dartmoor are visible on both
sides, while behind us the hills of Cornwall form the background. —
IOV2 M. Princetown (1400 ft. above the sea; "Duchy Hotel), a small town
of modern origin forms a convenient starting-point for excursions in
,

Dartmoor Forest (p. 137), near the centre of which it lies. The large
Convict Prison here was erected at the beginning of the present century
for French prisoners-of-war, of whom it is said to have contained 9000 in
1811. In the war of 1812-14 upwards of 2000 American seamen, who
refused to serve in the British navy against their country, were also con-
lined here. Part of the adjoining moorland has been reclaimed by con-
vict labour. Princetown is about 15 M. from Chagford or Moreton Hampstead
(see p. 130).i
Sheep's Tor now comes into view on the left. The line follows the
windings of the Plym. Near (15 M.) Bickleigh (p. 143), to the left, is the
Dewerstone, rising above the confluence of the Meavy and the Plym. We
now descend the pretty Bickleigh Vale (p. 143) to (19 M.) Marsh Mills. —
22 M. Mutley. —221/2 M. Plymouth (North Road; see p. 139). 23 W. Mill Bay,
the G. W. B. terminus.
Beyond Lidford the S. W. R. runs parallel for some distance
with the Gr. W. R. To the right of (37V 4 M.) Brentor station rises
Brentor (1114 ft.), an isolated volcanic cone surmounted by the
 to Plymouth. DARTMOOR. 17. Route. 137

small church of St. Michael de Rupe, dating from the 13th cent,
(fine view from the churchyard key of the church kept at the
;

Stag's Head Inn). Farther on the line crosses the G. W. R. The

train then enters the valley of the Tavy, which it descends to —
4272M. Tavistock (Bedford, -well spoken of; Queen's Head;
Temperance), a pleasant-looking town on the Tavy which flows
,

into the Tamar The scanty remains of Tavistock Abbey,

close by.
originally founded in the 10th cent, and once an institution of
considerable importance, are close to the Bedford Hotel, which in-
corporates some parts of the old edifice. Adjacent is the Parish
Church, a fine Perp. edifice, restored in 1846. In the vicarage-garden
are three inscribed stones of the Romano-British period. Tavistock
is the centre of an important mining district, in which lead, silver,
copper, tin, and manganese aTe found. It was one of the Stannary
Towns (Latin Stannum, tin), or towns in which were held the Tin
Parliaments for deciding all questions connected with the tin-
mining of the district. Sir Francis Drake (p. 139) was the son of
a mariner of Tavistock , and a statue of the famous admiral , by
Boehm, has been erected at his birthplace Fiuford, 1 M. to the W.
— Tavistock is also a station on the 6. "W. R. (see p. 136).
A coach plies daily in summer from Tavistock to (18 M. ; 3 hrs.)
Litkeard (p. 144; fare 3js.), passing Gunnitlakt (near the M Orwell Bocks,
p. 142}, St. Ann't Chapel (near Calstock, p. 142), and Callington. Near the
road, about 4 M. from Tavistock, is the Devon Great Cotuolt Mine, which
formerly yielded 1000-1200 tons of copper ore per month, but is now
worked mainly for arsenic.
Tavistock is one of the chief starting-points for excursions in
Dartmoor Forest, a few of the most interesting points in which are
described below, while others have been already mentioned.
Dartmoor Forest, so named from the river Dart, is a high-lying
moorland district, about 25 M. long from N. to S., and 12 M. wide from
E. to W. The mean elevation is about 1500 ft. It has been described
as 'a monstrous lump of granite covered with a sponge of peaty soil',
and one of its most characteristic features are the 'Tors', or huge blocks
of granite that crown most of the hills. Numerous small streams rise
on Dartmoor, and their pretty wooded valleys often afford a pleasing
contrast to the barren scenery of the higher parts of the Forest. These
streams, with their numerous little falls and 'stickles' (rapids), are
generally well stocked with trout. The moor also offers much to interest
the antiquarian, as it abounds in menhirs, stone circles, and other relics
of the ancient Britons, though many supposed ancient monuments are
now regarded as cattle-pens and deserted mining-shafts of no great age.
The air is bracing and the climate in summer is often pleasant and
invigorating; but rain is very prevalent at all seasons. Dartmoor ponies
are a sturdy and sure-footed race. The pedestrian will find abundant
opportunity for his prowess , but should be on his guard against bogs
and mists. It is prudent to keep pretty closely to the beaten tracks, and
a good map and pocket compass are indispensable to all who are not
accompanied by a guide. The best carriage-roads aTe those from Tavistock
to Ivy Bridge, and from Horrabridge to Chagford, Horeton Eampstead,
and Ashburton, intersecting each other at Two Bridges (see p. 138). The
visitor to Dartmoor will find good headquarters at Princetown (p. 136), Two
Bridges (p. 138), and Chagford (p. 138), while Okehampton (p. 136) and
Ashburton (p. 134) or Ivy Bridge (p. 134) are conveniently placed for its
N. and S. districts respectively.
 ;

138 Route 17. PRINCETOWN. From Exeter,

One of the commoner excursions from Tavistock is to the top of

Brentor (p. 136), which lies about 4M. to the N.; but this ascent is better
made from Lidford —
(p. 135). Walkers may follow the ridge from (3 M.)
Mtiry-Tavy (p. 136) to (5V2 M.) Hare Tor and (2y2 M.) the Great Links Tor
(p. Id5), whence they may descend to the W. to (2 M.) Bridestowe (p. 135),
or go on over Yes Tor (see below) to (6 M.) Okehampton (p. 135).
y% From Tavistock a road leads due E. through Dartmoor, soon passing
a number of tors. The first on the left is Cock's Tor (1470 ft.), beyond
which are the Staple Tors. Opposite are Feather Tor and the curiously-
shaped Vixen Tor. About 1 M. beyond (4 1 /! M.) Merrivale (Inn), to the
S. (right) of the road, are some interesting stone circles and avenues.
About this point, too, we may turn to the left to visit the (I1/2 M.) Great
Mis Tor (17U0ft.), which commands an admirable view. The road to
Princetown (8 M. from Tavistock) diverges on the right after 3/t M. more
and passes the prison (see p. 136). Our road leads in a straight direction
to (2V4 M.) Two Bridges (Saracen's Head), a pleasant stopping-place for the
pedestrian or angler. A little to the N. is Crockern Tor, on which the
Stannary Parliaments (p. 135) were originally held. Not far off is Witt-
man's Wood, a singular group of ancient dwarf-oaks , the only relic 01
the 'Forest'. The road here forks, the N. arm leading to Chagford and
Moreton Hampstead, the S. arm to (12 M.) Ashburton (p. 134), on the S. E.
margin of the Forest. The latter coincides to some extent with the course
of the Bart, the wooded scenery of which is very fine at places. The road
to Moreton Hampstead maintains a N.E. direction and crosses some of the
highest ground in the Forest. Near (3'/2 M.) Post Bridge (Temperance
Hotel) is Clapper Bridge, a picturesque old structure of granite slabs
over the Dart. At Merripit, 1 M. beyond Post Bridge, a road diverges
on the right to (5 M.) Widdecombe (p. 131). About l 3 /4 M. farther on a
track on the right leads to the Vitifer Tin Mine and (2 M.) Grimspound, a
curious enclosure, the object of which is uncertain. After 3 M. more we
reach Bector, where the road to (2'/2 M.) Chagford diverges to the left, while
that to (3 M.) Moreton Hampstead (p. 130) continues in the same direction.
Chagford (Moor Park ; Globe ; Three Crowns ; King's Arms) is a small
town with 1500 inhab., conveniently situated for various interesting ex-
cursions in Dartmoor (information given by Mr. James Perrott). Among
the most attractive spots in the vicinity are Holy Street Mill (1 M. to the
W.), Iiushford Castle (iy2 M. to the N.), Gidleigh Castle (2i/2 M. to the
N.W.) , and Cranbrook Castle (a British camp) and Fingle Bridge (3'/2
and 4 M. to the N. E.). A longer excursion may be made to Castor Rock,
the Gidleigh Antiquities, and Cranmere Pool,& round of about 18 M. (7-8 hrs.
guide desirable). The antiquities are spread over a wide area, and include
several curious stone circles and avenues, a British slab-bridge, crom-
lechs, etc. Cranmere Pool (drained) is a lonely hollow surrounded with
morasses, and not easily found without help. The ascent of Cawsand
Beacon (p. 135) may be combined with this excursion; and those who do
not wish to return to Chagford may make their way from Cranmere Pool
to (8M.) Lidford, (9 M.) Two Bridges, or (6V2 M.) Okehampton.
From Two Bridges (see above) the active pedestrian may explore much
of the most characteristic scenery of Dartmoor by walking due N. to
(16 M. 7 hrs.) Okehampton (p. 135).
; The route leads by (6 M.) Cat Hill
(1970 ft. ; top marked by a turf mound) and (2 M.) Cranmere Pool (see above);
and Yes Tor (2050 ft.; p. 135), the highest point in Dartmoor, may be
included by a digression to the left. No inn is passed on the way.
From Princetown (p. 136) a pleasant route for walkers leads through
the S. part of Dartmoor to (14 M.) Ivy Bridge (p. 134). The most inter-
esting points passed on the way are the (21 J2 M.) Nun's Cross, a granite
cross, 7'/2 ft. high, (5 M.) Erme Pound, and the (2>/2 M.) Three Barrows
(1524 ft.), a fine point of view.
Beyond Tavistock the L. S. W. R. runs considerably to the W.
of the Or. W. R. —
49 M. Beer Alston. Beyond (51 '/.2 M.) Beer
Tavy and skirt the E. hank of the Tamar(jp. 142).
Ferris we cross the
 to Plymouth. PLYMOUTH. 17. Route. 139

To the right is the Royal Albert Bridge (p. 142). 55 3/4M. St. Bud-
eaux (for Saltash, p. 142) 57 M. Ford ; 58 M. Devonport (see p. 141).
—
;

59 M. Plymouth (North Road Station), see below.

Plymouth.. —
Hotels. Duke of Cornwall (PI. a; D, 3), opposite
Mill Bay Terminus j Royal (PI. b; D, 3), Millbay Road, near the station;
"Grand (PI. c; D, 6), finely situated on the Hoe, the only hotel with a
view of the Sound, R. & A. 6s.; Harvey's (PI. d; E, 2), a quiet family
hotel, Lockyer St.; Albion (PI. e; D, 3), Millbay Road; Globe (PI. in;
E, 2), Bedford St.; Mount Pleasant (PI. f; D, 3), adjoining the Duke
of Cornwall, unpretending; "Chobb's (PI. g; E, 2), Old Town St.; Far-
ley's (PI. h; D, 2), Union St. —
In Devonport: Royal (PI. j), Thomas's
(PI. k), both in Fore St. (PI. A, 2). —
In Stonehouse: Brunswick. Mat- —
thew's Restaurant, Bedford St. ; Railway Refreshment Rooms at the principal
stations.
Cabs. Under 1 M., 1-2 pers. Sd., 3-4 pers. Is.; each additional V2 M.
id. or 6<*.
Tramway from the E. end of Union St., Plymouth (PI. C, 2), to Stone-
house and Devonport; fares l'/isd., 2d.
Theatre (PI. D, 3), in the same building as the Royal Hotel.
Railway Stations. 1. Millbay Station (PI. D, 3), terminus of the G. W.
R., near the Docks and the Hoe; 2. Devonport and Stonehouse Station (PI.
B, 2), belonging to the L.S.W.R. 3. North Road Station (PI. E, 1), in the
;

N. suburb, 1 M. from the sea, a joint station of both lines ; 4. Cornwall

Station (PI. B, 1), of the G.W.R., at Devonport; 6. Mutley Station (P).
E, see above.
1),
Excursion Steamers (Rome's, etc.) ply in summer at frequent inter-
vals, and at moderate fares, to the Breakwater, Ml. Edgcumbe, Eddystone
Lighthouse, the Tamar, the Yealm, etc. See advertisements in the daily
papers. —
Deep Sea Steamers also ply regularly from Plymouth to various
British, European, and other ports. —
Ferries from the Admiral's Hard,
Stonehouse, to Cremill (Mt. Edgcumbe) ; from Mutton Cove, Devonport, to
Cremill; from the Barbican to Turn Chapel; from Ferry Road, Devonport,
to Torpoint. Fares id. or 2d.
Post Office, in Guildhall Sq.
Chief Attractions. The Hoe (p. 140); Devonport Dockyard (p. 141);
Breakwater (p. 140); Mt. Edgcumbe (p. 142); trip up the 'Tamar (p. 142);
Eddystone Lighthouse (p. 143; for good sailors only); Barbican (p. 140);
Municipal Buildings and Guildhall (p. 141); the Museum (p. 141); the
collection of drawings in Plymouth Library (p. 141).
Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, the 'Three Towns', with
a joint population of 170,000 souls, together form one of the most
important seaports in England, thanks to the Sound, in which the
largest vessels can ride safely at anchor, and to the excellent
harbours afforded by its arms, the Cattewater, or mouth of the Plym t
Sutton Pool, and the Hamoaze, or estuary of the Tamar. Plymouth
was first fortified in the 14th cent., and it is now a stronghold of the
first class, its defences including a girdle of outlying forts. The
various barracks can accommodate a garrison of 5000 men.
Plymouth has long been known as one of the chief naval and mer-
cantile harbours of Great Britain, and it witnessed the departure of many
of the most noted expeditions of Drake, Hawkins, Cook, and other famous
mariners. It was from Plymouth that the English fleet under Lord How-
ard of Effingham issued to encounter the Armada (1588), and heTe also
the Mayflower set sail for its Transatlantic destination on Sept. 6th, 1620
(comp. p. 81). In the Civil War Plymouth held out for the Parliament-
arians when all the rest of Devon and Cornwall was in the hands of the
Royalists, and defended itself successfully during a siege of four years.
It was also the first large town to proclaim William of Orange king. The
140 Route 17. PLYMOUTH. From Exeter

town now carries on a considerable trade with the West Indies, South
Ameriia, Australia, the Cape, the Baltic, and the Mediterranean, and
numerous large merchant vessels are almost always to be seen in the
(Jattewater. The chief exports are copper, lead, tin, granite, marble,
china-clay, bricks, and fish. Many of the emigrant ships for Australia,
New Zealand, and British North America start from Plymouth. The
Hamoaze is reserved for men-of-war.
On the sea-front of the town is the *Hoe (PI. D, E, 3), an elevat-
ed promenade commanding an admirable view of the Sound. In
the middle of it rises a Statue of Sir Francis Drake (p. 137), who is
said to have been playing bowls here when news was brought him
that the Armada was in sight (see Kingsley's Westward Ho /',
'

chap. xxx). The statue erected in 1884, is a replica of that at

,

Tavistock (p. 137). To the E. is Smeaton's original Eddystone

Lighthouse (adm. Id.), re-erected here when replaced by a new one
on the rock (p. 143). The*View from the top is very extensive, in-
cluding (on a clear day) the Eddystone Lighthouse, 14 M. to the S.
Beyond Smeaton's Tower is the Citadel (PI. E, 3), erected in 1670,
and now somewhat out of date as a fortress (view from the ram-
parts). Outside its walls is a Marine Laboratory, opened in 1888,
with an aquarium below. Below the Hoe are a fine Promenade Pier
(adm. 2d. band) and the Bathing Places for ladies and gentlemen.
;

The *Sound, or roadstead of Plymouth, about 3 sq. M. in ex-

tent, is one of the finest bays on the S. coast of England, and is
generally alive with shipping of the most varied description. In the
middle lies the small fortified St. Nicholas or Drake's Island (PI. C,
D, 4). To the W. rises Mount Edgcumbe (p. 142). To the E.
is the rocky islet of Mewstone. On the S. side the entrance to the
Sound is defended by the *Breakwater, a stupendous piece of gra-
nite masonry, 1 M. in length constructed in 1812-40 at a cost of
,

1,580,000^. The top forms a pleasant promenade, and it may be

reached from Plymouth by an excursion-steamer (6d. ; landing in
boat Id.) or by small boat (about 2s.). At the W. end is a small
Lighthouse, the top of which affords a good view (small gratuity to
the keeper). Just inside the Breakwater is a circular fort like
those at Portsmouth (p. 56). The entrance to the Cattewater (PI.
F, 4) is also sheltered by a breakwater, 1000 ft. long, projecting
from Mount Batten Point. 'Kitchen Middens' found here prove
the existence of a prehistoric population near Plymouth. —
Visit
to Mt. Edgcumbe, see p. 142.
From the back of the Citadel we may descend to the quaint
bit of old Plymouth known as the Barbican, which lies on the
edge of Sutton Pool (PI. E, F, 3). The 'Dutch auctions' of fish here
are amusing. —
Ferry across the Cattewater, see p. 139.
"We next make our way through Southside St., Notte St., and
St. Andrew s St. to the Church of St. Andrew (PI. E, 2), dating
from the 15th cent., and restored by Sir G. G. Scott in 1874-75.
It contains some interesting monuments. Adjoining the church is
a Perp. building named the Prysten House. — The church faces
 to Plymouth. PLYMOUTH. 17. Route. 141

Guildhall Sq. on the right side of which are the Municipal

,

Offices and on the left the Guildhall, two handsome modern

Gothic edifices. The fine hall in the latter, 148 ft. long, is adorned
with stained-glass windows representing scenes from the town's
history. The Mayor's Parlour, on the other side, contains a portrait
(with quaint inscriptions) of Sir Francis Drake (1545-96), 'fellow
traveller of the Sunn', who once sat for Plymouth in Parliament
and presented the town with the aqueduct, which supplies it with
water from Dartmoor, 24 M. distant. —
The fourth side of the square
is occupied by the new Post Office (PI. E, 2).
Among the other objects of interest in Plymouth are the building
comprising the Royal Hotel and the Theatre (PI. D, 3), with an Ionic por-
tico; the Roman Catholic Cathedral (PI. D, 2); the Home of the Sitters of
Mercy, North Road; the Clock Tower, at the junction of George St. and
Lockyer St.; the Athenaeum (PI. D, 3), containing a museum and a gal-
lery of art; the Plymouth Library, Cornwall Str., near the Market (PI.
E, 2), with a fine collection of prints and drawings (Da Vinci, Rubens,
Ruyadael, Correggio, etc.) and three paintings by Reynolds (open on Mon. 5
at other times on application to the librarian).

Storehouse (PI. 0, 3, 4) is the seat of the "Royal William Vic-

tualling Yard, a huge establishment for the -victualling of the navy,
constructed in 1835 at an outlay of 1,500, OOOi. and covering 14 acres
of ground. The gateway (Durnford St.) is surmounted by a colos-
sal figure of William IV. The bakehouse and the cooperage are of
special interest. From two to three million pounds of salt-meat are
always kept on hand in this yard, and the other stores are in like
proportions. — To the N. stands the Royal Naval Hospital (PI. C, 2),
which has accommodation for 1200 patients. * In Durnford St. are the
Royal Marine Barracks (PI C, 3), with room for 1500 men (handsome
mess-room) and at the back of them are the Qreat Western Bocks.
;

Devonport(Pl.A,B,2, 3), situated' to the W. of Plymouth, and

at a considerably higher elevation, is the headquarters of the naval
and military officials, and is the most fashionable part of the town
for residences. (Tramway, seep. 139, ending close to the entrance to
the Dockyard; boat from the Admiral's Hard, PI. B, 3, Id. or 3d.)
The "Dockyard (PI. A, 2, 3) resembles that at Portsmouth (p. 56),
but is not so large (visitors admitted 10-11.30 and 2-4; special
order requisite for the Ropery) it affords regular employment to
;

about 3000 workpeople. To the N. of the Dockyard is the GunWharf

(PI. A, 2), and beyond that is the Keyham Steam Yard (PI. A, 1), a
most imposing establishment with huge steam-docks and a steam-
hammer capable of striking with a force of 100 tons. The finest
private houses are in Higher Stoke. The blockhouse at the top
of Stoke Hill commands an excellent view, and so does the top of the
Devonport Column (PI. A, 2; 125 ft.). Mt. Wise is a fine prome-
nade, with parade-ground and batteries.
Excursions from Plymouth.
Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from Plymouth both by
sea and land. The town lies in the S.W.. angle of Devonshire, one of the
 ;

1 42 Route 17, PLYMOUTH.

most attractive counties in England; and the adjoining parts of Cornwall
are scarcely less interesting.
1. Strangers should not omit a visit to 'Mount Edgcumbe, the seat
of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, which is reached by the ferry from Ad-
miral's Hard (fare 2d. or 3d.) to Cremill (PI. A, 4; Mt. Edgcumbe Arms);
excursion-steamers also ply to Cawsand (King's Arms), in Cawsand Bay,
opposite the Breakwater. The house itself is not shown, but the park is
open to the public on Wed. (on other days by special permission obtained
at the Manor Office, Emma
Place, Stonehouse). The "Park, which occupies
the whole peninsula between the Sound and the Hamoaze, contains magni-
ficent trees and is traversed by beautiful walks. Camellias and palms
grow here in the open air. The Gardens (special order necessary) are
tastefully laid out in the Italian, the French, and the English style, and
include a large orangery. A visit to Mt. Edgcumbe requires at least 2 hrs.
guide to the chief points 2s. 6d.
2. By the Tamar to Weir Head. This excursion may be accomplished
by steamer (return -fare Is. &d. half- a- day) or by a boat chartered for
;

the occasion (a day). The Tamar ('great water') separates Devon from
Cornwall. Passing through the Hamoaze, we reach the actual mouth
of the Tamar, 3 M. to the N.W., which is crossed by the *Royal Al-
bert Bridge of the G.W.R. line to Cornwall. This gigantic iron structure,
750 yds. long, 10 yds. wide, and 100 ft. above the water, was built by
Brunei in 1859 and cost 250,000Z. The two chief arches have each a
span of 450 ft. The tubular principle (comp. p. 288) has also been adopted
here but the train runs on a roadway suspended from the tubes.
,

Considerable difficulty was experienced in its construction owing to the

depth of the water (65 ft.), and the foundations of the piers are 20 ft.
below the bottom. At the W. end of the bridge lies Saltash (Green
Dragon), a quaint-looking fishing- town, whence visitors may walk on to
the bridge (3d.). The women of Saltash are famous for their rowing, often
beating the men at regattas. Beyond the bridge the Tamar again expands,
and at high water resembles a beautiful lake. To theN.W. the Great Mis Tor
(p. 137) is visible. The second branch to the right is the Tavy. To the
left, opposite the mouth of the Tavy, is Landulph, in the church of
which is buried Theodore Paleologus (d. 1637) a scion of a famous race.
,

On the left, 4 M. above Saltash, is Pentillie Castle, with beautiful grounds.

At Cotehele, 2 1 /^ M. farther on, the river is very narrow. Cotehele House,
a Tudor mansion, with a fine baronial hall and interesting old tapestry and
furniture, is generally open to visitors. The river now makes a bend
to the right and reaches Calstock (Ashburton Hotel) and Morwellham Quay.
Time for tea is generally allowed at Calstock by the steamers. Fine
view from Calstock church. The most picturesque part of the river begins
here, the "Morwell Rocks rising precipitously to a height of 300 ft. The
steamers rarely get quite so far as Weir Head (about 20 M. from Ply-
mouth), but there is much fine river-scenery farther on, which may
be visited by small boat.
3. To St. Germans and Port Eliot, 10 M. This excursion is made by
boat on the St. Germans River or Lynher Creek, which diverges from the
Hamoaze to the left, below Saltash. On the right, 2 M. from Saltash,
is Trematon Castle the grounds of which are open to the public on
,

Wednesdays. Opposite is Antony House, situated in a fine park, and con-

taining a good collection of pictures (special permission necessary). Farther
up, the river is luxuriantly wooded. St. Germans (Eliot Arms), a station
on the G-. W. E., possesses a Church showing an interesting mixture of
the Norman. E. E., and Perp. styles. St. Germans was the seat of the
old Cornish bishopric, and the names of 12 bishops are preserved in the
church. Close by is Port Eliot, the seat of Earl St. Germans, with a
park to which visitors are admitted by the gardener.
4. To Oreston Quarries and Saltram, 4 M., a charming small-boat
trip on the Caltewater. Saltram House, the seat of the Earl of Morley,
ontains a fine collection of pictures, including 16 portraits by Sir Joshua
Keynolds and specimens of Titian Rubens, and Correggio. Visitors re-
,

quire an order from the Earl. The finely-wooded park is open to the
 CORNWALL. 18. Route. 143

public on Mondays. This excursion may be combined with the following

by walking from Saltram to Plym Bridge and Marsh Millt (see below).
5. To the Vale of Bickleigh. This excursion is most conveniently be-
gun at Marsh Mills (p. 138), whence we may walk through the narrow
wooded valley to (4'/2 M.) Bickleigh (p. 138). The road through the vale
is not open except on Mon., Wed., and Saturdays. To the right is Bo-
ringdon Bouse, lying high and commanding a wide view. Beyond Bick-
leigh the walk may be extended to Bhaugh Prior, the valley of the Cad,
and the villages of Meavy and SHeepstor (comp. p. 138).
6. To Rome Head and Whitesand Bay. This excursion is best made
by taking the excursion -steamer to Cawsand (p. 141), which is about
2 M. from Eame Head, the southernmost promontory of the peninsula
on which Mt. Edgcumbe stands. Whitesand Bay, with its fine sandy
beach and background of cliffs (hathing dangerous), extends in a beautiful
curve from Eame Head to Looe Island. Walkers may return via Mill-
brook to (4 M.) Cremill (p. 141).
7. To Eddystone Lighthouse, 14 M. Excursion-steamers ply frequently
to the lighthouse in summer, but passengers are seldom landed. The first
lighthouse erected here in 1697 was washed away six years after its com-
pletion; the second, of wood, was burned down in 1755. The third, or
Smeaton's Lighthouse, a tower of masonry, 95 ft. high, stood here from
1757 to 1882. It had then to be removed, owing to the insecurity of its
base, and has been re-erected on the Hoe at Plymouth (p. 140). The
present lighthouse, 135 ft. in height, was built by Sir J. N. Douglass, at
a cost of 80,000{. The light-keepers are three in number, each of whom
has a month's holiday in summer.
From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance, see R. 18. —
Dartmoor,
see p. 137.

18. From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance. Falmouth.

80M. G.W. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 17*., 11*. Sd.,7s.Sd.). Trains start
from Millbay Station (p. 138) and stop again at the Devonport Station.
The line is remarkable for its numerous lofty viaducts. —
Steamboats
also ply at intervals from Plymouth to Falmouth and Penzance.
The county of Cornwall, which this railway traverses, offers much to
interest, the chief attraction being the grand rocky scenery of the coast near
the Land's End. The climate is exceedingly mild ; myrtles and certain kinds
of palms thrive luxuriantly in the open air, while orange-trees and
vines only require the protection of matting in winter. The average tem-
perature in winter is 50°, in summer 60° Fahr. The great economical
importance of Cornwall arose from its rich mines of copper, tin, lead, and
silver; but foreign competition has for some years past closed many mines.
The tin-mines of Cornwall were worked by the Phoenicians long before
the Christian era. The maximum production of copper ore in Cornwall
and Devon was reached in 1861, when 180,000 tons , worth upwards of
1,000,OOOJ. , were brought to the surface. Nowadays , it has been said,
one must go to Nevada to see Cornish miners. The pilchard and other
fisheries are also important. The Celtic origin of the inhabitants is
still often perceptible in their dark hair and complexions. Their ancient
language, closely akin to Breton and Welsh, is now extinct; the last
person who spoke it is said to have died in 1777 (see p. 146). The prefixes
Tre', 'Pol', and 'Pen', which occur so frequently in names, mean 'dwelling',
'pool', and 'summit' or 'head'. Several books in Cornish are extant,
Cornwall is famous for its 'squab' and other pasties, made out of such
heterogeneous materials that the devil, according to a local proverb,
will not enter the county for fear of being put into a pie. The Prince
of Wales bears the title of Duke of Cornwall , and has valuable estates
in the county. — Geological travellers should procure Sir Henry de la
Beche's 'Geology of Cornwall, Devon, and West Somerset'.
Soon after leaving Devonport (p. 141) the train crosses the
Tamar by the Royal Albert Bridge (p. 142; *View), and reaches
144 Route 18. NEWQUAY. From Plymouth

(4*/-2 MSaltash (p. 142). The line skirts the Lynher, a scene of
great beauty at high tide. 9'/2 M. St. Germans (p. 142); ii 1 /^ M.
Menheniot (omn. to Looe).
18 M. Liskeard (Webb's, on the Parade; Stag), a small town
with 4500 inhab., is a good centre for a few pleasant excursions.
On the coast, 7 M. to the S. (railway in 1 hr.), is Looe (Ship), a small
seaport, embowered in myrtles and other exotics. The road to it (9 M.)
skirts a canal and passes St. Keyne't Well, the subject of a ballad by
Southey. About 4 M. to the W. of Looe, also on the coast, lies Pol-
perro ("Oliver's Tourist; Ship), perhaps the quaintest and most charac-
teristic of Cornish fishing -villages, tightly wedged into a narrow ra-
vine. —To the N. a picturesque walk of about 7 M. may be taken from
Liskeard to (2 3 /4 M.) St. Clear (with remains interesting to the anti-
quarian), the (3'/4 M.) Hurlers, three stone circles, and the (1 M.) Devil's
Cheesewring (i.e. cheese-press), a curious pile of granite rocks, 30 ft. high.
About 1 M. to the E. of St. Cleer is Trevethy's Cromlech. — At St. Neot's
(Carlyon Arms), S'/a M. to the N.W. of Liskeard, is a fine Perp. church
of 1480, with celebrated stained-glass windows of the 14-15th cent (comp.
p. 144). Between St. Neot's and the Cheesewring is Dozmare Pool, the lake
into which King Arthur is said to have thrown Excalibur (p. 155). The
Cornish man-demon Tregeagle is condemned to empty the pool with a
limpet-shell, a penalty for unjust stewardship when in his human form.
— Coach from Liskeard to (18 M.) Tavistock, see p. 136.
Beyond Liskeard the train crosses the lofty Moorswater Viaduct
and reaches (21 M.) Doublebois. Several viaducts. 27 M. Bodmin
Road, on the Fowey, is the junction of a branch-line to (3*^ M.)
Bodmin and (10 >/2 M.) Wadebridge.
Bodmin (Royal; Town Arms), the county-town of Cornwall, is an an
cient little place with 5000 inhab. and a large church of the 12-15th cent
(restored), accounted the finest specimen of a Cornish mediaeval cnurch.
— From Wadebridge (Molesworth Arms) a coach runs to Padstow (see
p. 153).
The train now
turns to the S., passes, on the right, Restormel
Castle, built in the reign of Henry III., and reaches (30!/2 M.)
Lostwithiel (Royal Talbot), a small town on the Fowey, which was
once represented in parliament by Addison (1704). It is a good
trout-fishing centre and possesses a line church-steeple, surmount-
ed by an open-work lantern. The so-called 'Palace of the Dukes of
Cornwall' is interesting to antiquarians. —
35 M. Par (Royal),
with silver smelting- works and pilchard -fishery, is the junction
of railways to New Quay on the N., and to (4 M.) Fowey on the S.
Feom Pae to New Quay, 21 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 3s. 9<J., 3s. 2d.,
is. (Jd.). The intermediate stations are St. Blazey, Bridges (the starting-
point for a visit to the 'Luxulion Valley), Bugle, Victoria, and St. Golitmb
Road. — New Quay (Red Lion, well spoken of; Great Western, E. & A. 5s.;
Cocks's Hotel; Proufs Private Hotel; Commercial, unpretending) is a rising
little watering-place. Its batbing-beach, or rather its beaches, consists of
several small sandy coves, surrounded with tall cliffs and separated from
each other at high-water by rocky bluffs. Good views are obtained from
the cliffs at the back of the Great Western Hotel and from the high ground
above the harbour (at the W. end of the town). The rock-bound coast
both to the N. and S. is fine, particularly at "Bedruthan Steps, 6V2 M. to the
N. From Bedruthan we may go on to (7 M.) Padstow fp. 153), and cross
thence (ferry) to Rock (Inn), 15 M. from Tintagel (p. 154). The cliff-walk
southwards, to (23 M.) Owithian fp. 145), on St. Ives Bay (p. 148), is also
verv fine and easy; inns at (7 M.) Perrcm Porth, (4 M.) St. Agnes, and
(6 M.) Portreath. —
Coach from New Quayjo Camelford, etc., see R. 19. fj
 ;;

to Penzance. TRURO. 18. Route. 145

Fowey (Fowey Hotel; Ship), pron 'Foy', which has been described
as a 'miniature Dartmouth', is a small seaport, with a picturesque har-
bour, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The 'Gallants of
Fowey' in the 14th cent, are said to have helped largely in the foundation
of England's naval greatness before the time of Drake and the other 'Sea-
dogs of Devon'.
The beauty of the district now traversed is marred by numerous
mines and the white refuse of kaoline or china-clay, -which is
,

found here in great abundance. 40 M. St. Austell (White Hart

Globe) is a busy little mining-town. The handsome church is in
good preservation; and its exterior, together with the interior
of St. Neot's (p. 144) , affords a good idea of a Cornish mediaeval
church. About 3 M. to the N. rises Hensbarrow Beacon (1030 ft.
view) which Carew (1602) calls the 'Archbeacon of Cornwall'
—
,

('Survey of Cornwall'; p. 138). 47 M. Grampound Road, the sta-

tion for (2Y2 M.) Probus, with a fine church-tower, and (4M.)
Tregony. Near Truro we cross two long viaducts.
54 M. Truro (*Red Lion, R. & A. 3s. 6d. *Royal), the mining
;

capital of Cornwall, is an ancient town with 10,700 inhab., situated

at the head of a pretty creek of the Fal. In 1877 it became the
seat of the resuscitated bishopric of Cornwall, and a handsome E.
E. Cathedral (consecrated in 1887), by Pearson has been erected
,

on the site of the old church of St. Mary a part of which (Perp.)
,

has been incorporated in the new building (S. side of choir). The
interior (300 ft. long) is very imposing. The Baptistery is a memo-
rial of Henry Martyn (1781-1812), the missionary, a native of
Truro. —
The *Museum (adm. 6d. free on Wed. after 2 p.m.) con-
;

tains Cornu-British antiquities and Cornish birds. The Red Lion

Hotel, dating from 1671, formerly belonged to the Foote family,
and was the birthplace of Samuel Foote (1720-77) the actor and ,

playwright.
Among the interesting points near Truro are the grounds of (3 M.)
Tregolhncm, on the opposite bank of the Fal ; the ancient ruined church
of St. Piran, 8M. to the N.W., long hidden by the sand which had been
blown over it, and believed to be the oratory where St. Piranus officiated
in the 6th cent. ; and the Isnioc Cross, at St. Clement's, l 1 /^ M. to the S.E.
Numerous pleasant excursions may be made on the Fal (to Falmouth, see
below), and omnibuses ply to Probus, St. Agnes, etc.
Fbom Tkdko to Falmouth, H'/aM., railway in 20-30 min. (fares 2*. 6<J.,
it. 9d., 1«. id.). After passing through a series of cuttings and tunnels, we
reach (5 M.) Perranwell, near which is the country-seat of Carclew, with
fine gardens containing many exotic plants. —9 M. Penryn (King's Arms),
at the head of Penryn Creek (view to the left), carries on an extensive
trade in granite and contains some traces of the once famous Olasney Abbey.
[A much pleasanter way of proceeding from Truro to Falmouth is by
the little steamer which plies up and down the Fal every day in sum-
mer (10 M., in 1 hr. ; fare 1*., 9d.). For the first 2 M. we descend what
is known as Truro Lake or River, a ramification of the Fal. On entering
the Fal proper we have Tregothnan (see above) to the left, while farther on
the woods of Trelissick cover the bank to the right. The steamer then
reaches the Carrick Road, or wider part of the Fal estuary, passes the
mouth of Restronguet Creek (to the Tight), and enters Penryn Creek, at
the mouth of which Falmouth lies.]
Falmouth (Falmouth, on the neck of the peninsula , near the station,
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 1Q
 ;

1 46 Route 18. REDRUTH. From Plymouth

with a sea-view both to the back and front; "Oreen Bank, H/2 M. to the
N.W. of the station and 3 /t M. from the landing-stage, with a view of the
harbour, B. & A. 4s., table d'hote is. Gd. ; Royal, in the town, well spoken
of), a small and somewhat foreign-looking seaport with about 6000 inhab.,
was formerly an important mail-packet station, but is now chiefly known
as a watering-place. It is still, however, a port of call for vessels wailing
for orders and for yachts. The scenery of the estuary of the Fal is very
picturesque, and charming water-excursions may be taken in Falmouth
Harbour (sailing boat 2s., row-boats Is. per hr.). In fine weather ex-
cursion-steamers ply to the Lizard, Penzance, etc., and trips are also made
by sailing-yachts. Falmouth has bi-weekly steamboat communication
with London (I1/2 day) Dublin, etc. The bathing is good. Palms and
,

other tropical plants grow here in the open air without protection, and
the visitor should try to obtain access to one of the lovely private gardens.
The chief object of interest at Falmouth is Pendennis Castle, an old
Tudor fastness at the E. extremity of the peninsula on which the town
stands p/4 M. from the station). It is celebrated for its siege in the Civil
War and is still maintained as a fortress. The "View from it is very
fine. A pleasant drive has been constructed round the promontory, passing
below the castle. On the opposite side of the estuary (steam-ferry;
return -fare &/id.) is St. Mawes Castle, another coast-defence erected
by Henry VIII. — On the way to Pendennis we pass the remains of
Arwenack House, the seat of the once powerful but now extinct family
of the Killigrews (memorial obelisk in front). Excursions may also be
made to (2 M.) Penryn (p. 145), at the head of Penryn Creek, and to
Flushing (ferry ifad., starting behind the Green Bank Hotel) on its N. bank,
whence we may walk across the hill to Mylor, on Carrick Road (p. 145).
A coach plies daily in summer from Falmouth to Penryn and
(12'/2 M. ; fare 2s. 6<2.) Helslon (see below), where it corresponds with coaches
for the (11 M.) Lizard and (13 M.) Penzance (see below). The direct road
from Falmouth to the Lizard (18 M.) leads by Qweek, at the head of the Hel-
ford Estuary, and through Trelowarren Park (carr. and pair 30s. ; driver 5s.)
in the season a four-horse brake runs by this route from Falmouth to
Lizard Town and Kynance Cove (see p. 147). Near Trelowarren House
is a very singular series of underground chambers, a standing puzzle
to archaeologists. The coast-route (for pedestrians; about 25 M.) leads
via, (2 M.) Maenporlh, (2 M.) Mawnan Smith, (2 M.) Helford Passage (ferry),
(1 M.) Manaccan, and (4 M.) St. Keverne (Inn), and thence by the cliffs to
(3'/2 M.) Coverack, (2 M.) Black Head, (4 M.) Poltesco (serpentine works),
(t M.) Cadgwith (p. 148), and (3 M.) Lizard Town (p. 148). The direct walk-
ing distance from Helford Passage to Lizard Town, via, Newtown, is 10 M.
Beyond Truro numerous mines are passed, many of which have
been abandoned owing to the low price of metals. At (59 M.) Chace-
water we cross the valley by a high wooden viaduct. In the dis-
tance, to the N.W. rises St. Agnes's Beacon (630 ft.).
,

63 M. Redruth (Tabb's; London), a market-tovm with 9335 in-

hab., formerly important from the numerous copper-mines in the
neighbourhood. The Hunt Memorial Museum contains minerals.
About 3 M. to the S. E. is Qwennap, where Wesley used to preach
to the miners open-air meetings of 20-30,000 Wesleyans still
;

occasionally take place here. —

Farther on, Carnbrea Hill (750 ft.),
with British remains and a curious old castle or house perched
on the top, rises to the left. 66 M. Camborne (Abraham's; Com-
mercial) a mining- town with 13,610 inhabitants. The Dol-
,

c.oath Copper Mine here is upwards of 2000 ft. deep. From—

(l>8'/2 M.) Gvinear Road a branch-line runs to (8 M.) Helston
(Angel; Star), the usual starting-point for a visit to the interesting
 to Penzance. THE LIZARD. 18. Route. 147

coast-scenery of the Lizard (see below). Coaches run hence to Fal-

mouth (p. 145), to (11 M.) the Lizard (see below; fare 2s.), and to
(13 M.) Penzance (p. 149 ; fare 2s. 6d.). The road to Lizard Town
calls for no special remark. About halfway the prettily-situated
mansion of Bochym is passed on the right.

The name *Lizard (Coinish, Mencage) is given to the whole

peninsula S. of a line drawn from Oweek, at the head of Helford River,
to Looe Pool, but is more specially applied to the town and headland
at its S. extremity. The peninsula is an elevated plateau, descend-
ing in cliffs to the sea, and its interior is as unattractive as its
coast scenery is the reverse. The charms of the latter are chiefly
owing to the varied colours and forms of the serpentine rock.
Botanists will be interested in the fact that the rare and beautiful
Cornish heath, Erica Vagans, grows here in abundance. Tourists
usually proceed direct from Helston to LizaTd Town, and make the
latter the centre of their excursions, but those with leisure should
spend a night both at Mullyon on the "W. and Cadgwith on the E.
— The road from Helston to (1 1 M.) Lizard Town is uninteresting.
Good walkers, with time to spare, will prefer to follow the coast,
the chief points of interest on which are (3/4 M.) Looe Pool; 2 M.
Looe Bar, formed of pebbles cast up by the sea (supposed to be
caused by Tregeagle, p. 144) ; 3 l fe M. Ounwalloe, with a chuTch
of the 15th cent. Then (2*/2 M.) *Mullyon Cove and Cave; the cave,
which is entered by a beautiful natural archway, may be penetrated
at low tide for 200 ft. (fine view from within). It was once a great
resort of smugglers. The village of Mullyon (Old Inn; King's Arms)
lies about 1 M. inland. The Perp. church has some features of
interest, including some remarkable carved oaken pews. The com-
fortable but unpretending Old Inn is kept by Mary Munday, a Corn-
ish character whose praises have been sung by Professor Blackie in
a poem inscribed in her visitors' book. Continuing to follow the
cliff-walk (coast-guard route marked by white paint) beyond Mul-
lyon Cove, we pass the bold headlands of Pradanack Head and Vellan
Head and reach (5 M.) *Kynance Cove (small lodging-houses ; re-
freshments), one of the most celebrated points on the Cornish coast.
The serpent ine cliffs here are beautifully veined and coloured, and
numerous picturesque rocks are scattered about the little bay, with
its floor of silvery sand. Various more or less appropriate names
have been given to the different features of the Cove, such as
Steeple Rock and Qull Rock. On Asparagus Island the semi-
,

detached promontory on the "W. side of the Cove, is the Devil's

Bellows, a narrow interstice formed by one rock overlying another,
through which the water is propelled in clouds of spray (seen to
advantage at low tide only). Adjacent is the Letter Box, a curious
Assure in the rock. The cave in Asparagus Island is known as the
Devil's Throat; those on the mainland are called the Kitchen and
10*
 ;

1 48 Route 18. ST. IVES. From Plymouth

Parlour. Geologists will notice that the action of the sea causes the
granite to cleave in cubes, while the serpentine assumes the most
varied forms. From Kynance Cove we may either proceed direct to
(l'/^M.) Lizard Town, on theE. side of the promontory, or continue
our walk round the coast to the (2t/2 M.) Lighthouses (open to
visitors, except onMon. and after the lamps are lit; fine view), on
Lizard Head, the most southerly point in England (49° 57' 39" N.
la t.). On the way we pass Pistol Meadow, so called from the weapons
cast up by the sea after the wreck of a man-of-war at the beginning
of last century, and the little harbour of Polpeor. Farther on are
the columnar Bumble Bock and the Lion's Den formed by the
,

falling in of the roof of a cavern in the cliffs. The Lighthouses

are about l ji M. from Lizard Town.
Lizard Town {Hill's Lizard Hotel , R. & A. 2s. 6c?. Lugg's
;

Mrs. Boxces Boarding House, and several others, on the promontory,

with sea-view), a small village, frequented as summer- quarters, is
11 M. from Helston by the road and 15 M. by the shore. The
bathing-place is at Housel Cove , to the E. of the Lighthouses.
Part of the ordinary path between Lizard Town and the shore runs
along the top of the low walls of turf and stone which form the
fences in this part of Cornwall. The church of the Lizard, the south-
ernmost church in England, is at Landewednack, a little to the E.
Serpentine is freely used here as building material. The Raven
Hugo (or Ogo), Dolor Hugo, and other caverns on the E. coast are
best explored by boat. —
Cadgwith (*Star), 2 Y2 M. to the E. of Lizard
Town, is chiefly visited for the sake of the Devil's Frying Pan, a
singular natural amphitheatre somewhat resembling the Lion's Den.
The coast between Cadgwith and Helford River is also very fine,
though not so much frequented by tourists (comp. p. 147).
Those who have come to Lizard Town by the E. coast, and have not
time to follow the whole of the W. coast of the peninsula, are recom-
mended to visit the Lighthouses and go on thence to Kynance Cove, Mull-
yon Cove and Mullyon , in time to catch the afternoon coach from Li-
,

zard Town to Helston , which passes the cross-roads IV2 to the E. (in-
land) of Mullyon. This will be in all a walk of 9V2 M. The coast-guard
path all round the coast is clearly marked by whitewash on stones and
rocks, at intervals of 50 yds. or less.
The Coach Route from Helston to (13 M.) Penzance (p. 149;
fare 2s. 6d.) calls for little remark , except that a good view of
St. Michael's Mt. (p. 149) is enjoyed towards the end. Walkers,
however, will find the coast-route (20 M.) interesting.

Continuation op the Railway. 71 M. Hayle, with large engine-

works. 73 M. St. Erth is the junction of a line to (4 M.) St. Ives,
passing Lelant and Carbis Bay , the latter a popular picnic resort.
St. Ives {"Tregenna Castle, charmingly situated above the station,
with view, R. & A. is. Gd., D. As. iid. ; Western, Queen's, in the town),
a quaint little fishing-town, situated on perhaps the most beautiful bay
in Cornwall, with a splendid sandy beach. It is said to owe its name to
St. la, an Irish princess who was martyred here about A. D. 450. The
beat views are obtained from the Tregenna Hotel and the Battery Rocks.
 ;

to Penzance. PENZANCE. 18. Route. 149

The mean temperature of St. Ives in winter is said to be only 4° Fahr.

less than that of Rome, and it has become a favourite bathing and
winter resort. The pilchard fishery is prosecuted here with great success.
The church is an interesting Perp. building, with carved bench-ends. A visit
should be paid to the very ancient church (?5th cent.) of (4Va M.) Owithian,
on the other side of the bay, formerly buried in the sand. Good walkers
may follow the coast from St. Ives to (15 M.) St. Just (p. 152) and (7 M.)
the Land's End (p. 151), or cross the country to& M.) Penzance (see below).
The churchyard of St. Hilary, near St. Erth, contains tombstones from
the time of Constantine the Great down to the present day.
From St. Erth. the train runs nearly due S. to (77 M.) Marazion
or Market Jew (Godolphin; Marazion), a prosaic little town, not
answering the expectations aroused by the ascription of its name
('bitter Zion') to an early colony of Jews, who traded with the
Phoenician miners (see Max Muller's 'Are there Jews in Cornwall'
comp. p. 143).
Marazionis the station for *St. Michael's Mount, the Ictis of the an-
cients, a curious rocky islet, rising precipitously to a height of 230 ft.,
and connected with the shore by a natural causeway, >/2 M l°ngi uncovered
-

for about 3 hrs. at low water. It may be described as a miniature copy

of Mont St. Michel in Normandy. Its earliest occupant, according to the
legend, was the Giant Cormoran, slain by the redoubtable Jack. The
priory at the top was dedicated to St. Michael, who is said to have ap-
peared to some hermits here very early in the Christian era, and St. Keyne
(A. D. 490) was the first of a long series of pilgrims. The castle, which
has for many years been the seat of the St. Aubin family, contains an
4
interesting hall and chapel. Fine View from the square church-tower.
There is a small fishing-village (Inn) at the foot of the Mount.
80 M. Penzance. — Hotels. Qdeen's, on the Esplanade, R. & A.
from 4s. 6d., D. 5*. : *Union, Ohapel St., comfortable, but with no view
of the sea, R. & A. 4*.; Western, Alverton St., R., A„ & B. 6s. ; Mount's
Bay, private hotel, next door to the Queen's ; Railway, Stab, unpretending.
Penzance, i. e. 'Holy Headland', is a seaport with 11,700 inhab.,
beautifully situated on the N.W. shore of Mount's Bay. It is one of
the headquarters of the pilchard and mackerel fisheries and also,

trades in copper, tin, china, and granite. Potatoes are extensively

cultivated in the environs and sent in large quantities to London.
The climate of the district is extremely mild, and frost and snow
are rare phenomena; but the annual rainfall (43 inches) is much
above the average. The handsome new Public Buildings in Alverton
St., include the large 'St. John's Hall', the guildhall, a library, and
a museum. The Library contains rare Cornish books and a valuable
collection of prints and. autographs. The Esplanade, to the S., is
the pleasantest part of the town, and the Pier (near the station)
affords good promenades and views. Another fine point of view is
Lescudjack Castle, a British earthwork on a hill near the railway-
station. Sir Humphrey Davy, the natural philosopher, was born at
Penzance in 1778, and a statue has been erected to him in front
of the Market Hall.
Perhaps the pleasantest short walk in the neighbourhood of Pen-
zance is that to fi/s M. Bleu Bridge, a small slab-bridge with an ancient
inscribed stone. To reach it we turn to the left at the Three Tuns Hotel,
near the railway-station, and then immediately to the right. The third
turning to the right O/4 hr. from the hotel the fourth turning if we
;

count a narrow footpath) descends to the bridge. — A visit may also be

150 Route Id. PENZANCE. From Plymouth
paid on foot to (3 SI.) Marazion aud St. Michael's Mi. (p. 149), but the
latter may also be reached in summer by a small steamer (fare each
—
way 6d.) Qulwal Church, 1 M. to the N.B., has a curious inscribed 'menhir'.

Excursions from Penzance.

Penzance may be made the traveller's headquarters for several
days , as the district of the 'Land's End' affords numerous at-
tractive excursions in which the lover of natural beauty and the
,

antiquarian will each find his reward. Many of the most important
copper and tin mines in Cornwall are also within easy reach and ,

the traveller should not neglect an opportunity to explore one of

these. Comp., however, p. 143.
1. To Lamorna and the Logan Rock by thb Coast, 11 M.
This excursion may be recommended to good walkers, though the
cliff-scenery is not so fine as that nearer the Land's End. We leave
the town by the Esplanade and pass the deserted Wherry Tin Mine
and (1 M.) Newlyn. The Church of St. Peter at Newlyn contains a
reredos after Leon, da Vinci and a memorial window to Lord Iddes-
leigh (d. 1886). At (3 M.) Mousehole is a large cavern, and a little
inland, in Paul Church, is the tomb of Dolly Pentreath (d. 1777),
usually said to be the last person who spoke Cornish. The Rev.
W. S. Lach-Szyrma, however in his 'Short History of Penzance'
,

states that he had found two or three persons in Mousehole who

could count up to 20 in old Cornish. Lamorna Cove, 5'^ M. from
Penzance, has been somewhat spoiled in appearance by the granite
quarries. About iy2 M. inland, near Boleit, are the remains of a
stone circle known as the Pipers § Merry Maidens, said to have been
turned into stone for dancing on Sunday. Lamorna is 5^2 M. from
the Logan Rock (see below) by the coast.
2. To St. Buryan and thb Logan Rock, 9 M. (carr. about 10s.).
The road passes (% M.) Alverton and diverges (^2 M.) to the left
from the road to St. Just (see below). It then passes through the
beautiful avenue of Trereife (pronounced 'treeve') and crosses
Buryas Bridge. On the left is Tresvennick Pillar, a British monu-
ment, popularly known as the 'Blind Fiddler'. The road to San-
creed (and St. Just) diverges to the right, iy2 M. farther on,
and after 3/4 M. more our road quits the direct route to Penzance
and leads to the left. 2 M. St. Buryan (Ship), a village with an
interesting church of the 15th cent., the tower of which is con-
spicuous far and wide. The interior contains a fine carved screen
and the churchyard an interesting old cross. The next village is
(3 M.) Trereen (Logan Inn), where tourists quit their vehicles to
visit ( 3/4 M.) the *Trereen Dinas, a bold and fantastic rocky head-
land, with the Logan Bock. (A guide, useful when time is limited,
may be obtained here fee Is. more for a party.)
; ;

The Logan Bock is a mass of granite weighing 70 tons, but so poised

that it can be rocked ('logged), though with some difficulty since Lieut.
Goldsmith's exploit (see below). A little climbing is necessary to reach the
rocking stone, and those whose heads are not perfectly steady may leave
 to Penzance. LAND'S END. IS. Route. 151

the guide to show how it moves. The guide, too, will relate how Lieutenant
Goldsmith, a young naval officer, a nephew of the poet, had the folly to
upset the rock in 1824 with the aid of a boat's crew ; and how the task of
replacing it, which he had to undertake by order of the Admiralty, cost
him 20002., though he had merely succeeded in canting it over, not moving
it more than a couple of feet or so. There is another rocking-stone on'the
promontory, called the 'Logan Lady 1 .

The "Cliff Scenery between the Logan Rock and (6 M.) the Land's
End is unsurpassed in England, and walkers are recommended to prolong
their excursion in this direction and return to Penzance by the road described
below. The finest points are the two bold promontories of Tol Pedn
Penaith Oholed headland of Penwith') and Pardenick. The cliffs are
100-280 ft. high.
3. To the Land's End, 10 M. (carr. 10s. 6d., with a fee of 2s.).
The road diverges to the right from that to St. Bury an (p. 150)
at a point 3^2 M. from Penzance. To the right rises Cam Bran
(690 ft.), on the top of which "Wesley is said to have frequently
preached to huge crowds of miners. Farther on, y4 M. to the left,
is the circle of Boscawen, about 5 M. from Penzance, which con-
sists of 19 stones, a number constantly recurring in these circles.
At the village of Crows-an-Wra, 2^2 M. from the fork, are a curious
old circular dwelling (to the right) and a stone cross (to the left).
Alongside our road runs the old pack-horse track. The small en-
closure to the right, 1 M. beyond Crows-an-Wra, is a disused
Friends' Burial Ground. At the (2'/2 M.) village of Sennen (in-
teresting church) the Inn still has for its sign the 'First and Last
Hotel in England', though there is now a Hotel (R. & A. from 3s.)
at the Land's End. itself, 1 M. farther on, while the very last
house in England is a small cottage near the Land's End Hotel,
where tea and other refreshments may be obtained. The "Land's
End, the ancient Bolerium, the most westerly point in England
(long. 5° 41' 31" W.) is a granite promontory, 60-100 ft. in height.
It commands a fine sea-view, including the Scilly Islands (p. 152),
20 M. to the S.W. The Longship Bocks, y% M. from the point, are
marked by a lighthouse. The cliff scenery on both sides is varied
and imposing. Among the numerous detached rocks to which names
have been given are the Armed Knight to the S. of the Land's End
and the Irish Lady to the N., by the S. horn of Whitesand Bay
(numerous shells). The view in this direction is bounded by the
bold promontory of Cope Cornwall and the Brisons.
The last two routes are combined by the great majority of tourists,
who take one of the Brakes which start daily in summer from Pen-
zance for the Land's End, going via the Logan Rock (13 M.) and return-
ing by the direct route. They start about 9 a.m. and regain Penzance
about 6 p.m., allowing i ] /2-2 hrs. at the Logan Rock and 2-2>/2 hrs. at
the Land's End, and also a few minutes at St. Buryan (p. 150). The
return-fare is 3t. 6<2.; single journey 2j. — Those who take the coach
miss the fine cliff-scenery between the Logan and the Land's End (see
above). A good plan is to drive from Penzance to the Logan Rock,
send the carriage on to Sennen (see above), walk along the cliffs to
the Land's End, and drive back to Penzance direct from Sennen (in all
8-10 hrs). Those who can should arrange to spend a night at the Land's
End for the sake of the sunset and sunrise.
152 Route 18. ST. JUST.

4. To omnibus twice daily in 1 hr. (fare 6d.).

St. Just, 6 1 /2 M.,
The road but it passes within a mile or so
itself is uninteresting,
of the hut-village of Crellas, the hill-fort of ChUn Castle and ,

a large Cromlech, all of which are among the most interesting anti-
quities in Cornwall. The omnibus, however, does not allow time
-for a visit to these, and will therefore be of little use to the
tourist. — St. Just in Penwith (Commercial Inn), a small mar-
ket town, has an Early Perp. church, with interesting Irish tracery
and one of the oldest Christian tombs in England. Near it is an open-
air amphitheatre in which Cornish miracle-plays were represented.
St. Just is the best starting-point for a visit to Bottallack Mine, 2 M. to
the N.W., which extends for 400 ft. under the sea (permission must he ob-
tained beforehand; make enquiry at the Penzance hotels). Cape Cornwall
(p. 151), IV2 M. to the W., is a fine point of view. The clifl'-walk from
St. Just to the Land's End (7 M.) is fine, though scarcely equal to that be-
tween the Land's End and the Logan.
5. To St. Ives. This excursion may be made either by railway
as already described (p. 148) or by road. The direct distance is
about 8 M., but tourists will probably prefer a more circuitous
route, so as to include a visit to some of the interesting British
remains in the district between Penzance and St. Ives.
Among these are Chysawster, a hut-village, 4 M. to the N. of Penzance;
Mulfra Cromlech or Quoit, 5 M. to the N.W. ; Zennor Cromlech, 5 M. to the
S.W. of St. Ives, said to be the largest monument of the kind known ; the
Lanyon Cromlech, 2 l /i M. to the S.W. of the Mulfra Cromlech; the Nine
Maidens, part of a atone circle, near Morvah, 2 M. beyond Lanyon; the
Holed Stone {'Men-an-tol' prob. used for initiations) and the Written, Stone
;

('Men scryfa'), also near Lanyon; and the beehive-hut a,t Bosphrennis, near
Mulfra. To the S. of the Nine Maidens is the Ding Dong Mine, said to have
been worked long before the Christian era.
6. To the Scilly Isles, 40 M. steamer thrice weekly in 4 hrs.
,

(fares 7s. 5s. ; return 10s. 6d. 7s. 6d.). This sail affords a good view
, ,

of the Cornish coast, but the sea is often rough. About halfway we
pass the Wolf Lighthouse. The shadowy land of Lyonnesse —
'A land of old upheaven from the abyss
'By Are, to sink into the abyss again' —
stretched from the Scilly Isles to the mainland and now lies sub-
,

merged with all the 140 parishes, which the matter-of-fact old
chroniclers assign to it.
The Scilly Isles the Cassiterides of the ancients are about 50 in
, ,

number, but only five are inhabited (pop. 4200). The largest is St. Mary's,
with a circumference of 9 M. and a population of 1500. On this lies the
capital, Hugh Town (Hugh House Hotel; Tregarthen's Inn), with Star
Castle, a fortress erected in the reign of Elizabeth. The churchyard con-
tains the graves of those drowned in the 'Schiller' in 1875. The rocky
coast-scenery is fine, the chief points being Peninis, Old Town Bay, and
Giants Castle. Holy Vale is picturesque. A good view of the group is
obtained from Telegraph Tower. Tresco (Canteen Inn), the second of the
group in size, is the most interesting. Near the ruins of Tresco Abbey is
the splendid 'Mansion of the proprietor of the islands (Mr. T. A. Dorrien-
Smith), picturesquely placed on a rocky height. Its sub-tropical gardens
are the finest in the British Isles (fee to gardener). There is also a large
cave in this island, named the Piper's Hole, shown by the landlord of the
Canteen Inn (fee for a party 5s.)- Dolphin Church is pretty. One of the
most profitable occupations in the islands is the growing of the narcissus
 CAMELFORD. 19. Route. 153
for Covent Garden, to which hundreds of thousands of this beautiful
flower are sent every spring.

Travellers who have reached Penzance and the Land's End via
Plymouth, and wish to return by the N. coast, are recommended to
go by railway from Penzance to New Quay, the starting-point for
75 M. of the finest coaching in England (to Bide ford; see R. 19).
Pedestrians may follow the coast the whole way but if their time
;

is limited they should reserve their walking for the coast to the N.
of New Quay, especially from Ilfracombe to Lynmouth and Porlock
(pp. 164, 168). Those who have already visited the intermediate
points of interest may take the steamer from Hayle (p. 148) to Il-
fracombe.

19. From New Quay to Bideford.

75 M. Coaching Route. The stages are: 1. From New Quay to (29 M.)
Camelford (fare 6s. 6<2.), thrice weekly (Tues., Thurs., and Sat.), starting
about 8 a.m. and connecting at Camelford with the coach to Bude (through-
fare 16*.). —2. From Camelford to Tintagel, Botcattle, and (20 M.) Bude (9s.
6d.) thrice a week, starting about 11.30 a.m. —
3. From Bude to (16 M.)
Clovelly Cross (6s.) and (26 M.) Bideford (8s.), thrice weekly (Mon., Wed.,
and Frid.).
Travellers by this fine route may make their first halt at Tintagel,
after which they should also visit at least Boscastle and Clovelly. Tin-
tagel and Boscastle are only a few miles apart , and those who spend a
night at either may easily visit the other on foot. Bude is not so inter-
esting, but the present coaching arrangements almost necessitate the
spending of a night there. From Clovelly there is daily communication
with Bideford, while steamers ply frequently to Ilfracombe.
New Quay, see p. 144. The first part of the road is com-
paratively uninteresting, though there is some fine cliff-scenery,
accessible to the pedestrian alone, between New Quay and Padstow
(comp. p. 144). 3 M. St. Columb Minor, with a lofty church-tower.
8 M. St. Columb Major (Red Lion) , with an interesting church.
St. Columb Road Station (p. 144) lies 2 3 /4 M. to the S. (omn.). A
little to the S. E. of St. Columb Major is Castle Dinas, the legend-
ary site of a hunting-seat of King Arthur and residence of the old
Cornish kings. The road now turns to the N. and traverses a some-
what bleak district. At (17 M.) Wadebridge (Molesworth Arms), a
pleasantly - situated little town, the junction of a line to Bodmin
(p. 144), we cross the head of the Camel estuary by a bridge that
was in Carew's time 'the longest, strongest, and fayrest that the
Shire could muster'. To the left (W.) we obtain a view of Pad-
stow, at the mouth of the river.
A coach runs 3-4 times daily along the pretty estuary of the Camel
to (8 M.) Fadstow (Commercial Inn), a place of no interest in itself, but
a good starting-point for a boating excursion along the fine rocky coast.
Part of the road from Wadebridge to Camelford is finely wooded.
29 M. Camelford (Queen's Arms; Darlington Arms), the Camelot
of Arthurian legend is the nearest starting-point for an ascent of
,

Brown Willy (1370 ft. ; 2-3 hrs.), the highest summit in Cornwall,
commanding an extensive but monotonous view. Along with its N.
154 Route 19. TINTAGEL. From New Quay

neighbour, Row Tor (1296 about 6 M. to the S.E. The

ft.), it rises
name is a corruption of Bryn highest hill.
Vliella, i.e.

The coach by which we have travelled thus far goes on to Laun-

ceston (see p. 135), while we now take our places in that which
runs to Tintagel and Bude. The road passes the extensive Delabole
Slate Quarries (2 M. to the W. of Camelford), which have been
worked since the days of Queen Elizabeth and produce 150,000 tons
of slate per annum. 6 M. (from Camelford) Tintagel, or more
correctly Trevena (*Wharncliffe Arms), a small village V2 M.
from the sea , in the very heart of the district consecrated to
Arthurian legend. The coach stops here to allow of a hurried
visit to the castle, but the traveller should spend at least one day
here or at Boscastle. Tintagel Church, to the W. of the village, is
partly of Saxon origin. To reach the sea we descend a small
valley, at the bottom of which is a cottage (refreshments), where
we obtain the key for the enclosure on the 'Island'. The remains
of the Castle, 'Dundagil by the Cornish Sea', are here above us to
the left, on the mainland portion of Tintagel Head, and are most
easily reached by a grassy track ascending from the valley at a
point a little above the cottage. The keep, the oldest part of the
existing ruins, is probably of Norman construction, though it is
not unlikely that a Saxon if not also a British, stronghold once
,

occupied the same site. Between this part of the promontory and
the so-called 'Island' is a deep chasm, which is supposed to be
of comparatively recent origin or is at least much wider than of
,

old. On the other side we see the rough path ascending to the top
of the Island, to reach which we must again descend to the little
cove in which the cottage stands with apparatus used in loading
,

boats with slates. The path leads to the locked gate, for which we ob-
tained the key (not required for the castle itself). The whole Island
seems to have been included in the fortified area, and there are
some ruins near this doorway. On the top of the plateau are the
remains of the foundation-walls of a small chapel, an old well, and
a so-called hermit's cave. The *View of the grand rocky coast from
the extreme point of the headland is very imposing extending ,

from Trevose Head on the S. to Hartland Point on the N. There is

a curious 'pillar rock' on the S. side of the point.
Among the sea-birds flocking round the promontory the visitor may
chance to see a specimen of the red-legged Cornish chough, a rare bird,
in the form of which, says the legend, King Arthur still haunts the Soene
of his Kound Table.
Familiar as the Arthurian Legend is, the following brief abstract of
it,taken from 'An Unsentimental Journey through Cornwall', by Mrs. Craik,
may not be unwelcome. 'Uther Pendragon King of Britain, falling in
,

love with Ygrayne, wife of the duke of Cornwall, besieged them in

their twin castles of Tintagel and Terrabil, slew the husband, and the
same day married the wife. Unto whom a boy was born, and by ad-
vice of the enchanter Merlin carried away from the sea-shore beneath
,

Tintagel, and confided to a good knight, Sir Ector, to be brought up as

his own son, and christened Arthur. On the death of the king , Merlin
 to Bideford. BOSCASTLE. 19. Route. 155
produced the youth, who was recognized by his mother Ygrayne, and
proclaimed king in the stead of Uther Pendragon. He instituted the
Order of Knights of the Round Table, who were to go everywhere, pun-
ishing vice and rescuing oppressed virtue , for the love of God and of
some noble lady. He married Guinivere, daughter of King Leodegrance,
who forsook him for the love of Sir Launcelot, his bravest knight and
dearest friend. One by one, his best knights fell away into sin, and his
nephew Mordred raised a rebellion, fought with him, and conquered him
at Camelford. Seeing his end was near , Arthur Dade his last faithful
knight, Sir Bedevere, carry him to the shore of a mere (supposed to be
Dozmare Pool) and throw in there his sword Excalibur, when appeared
a boat with three queens, who lifted him in, mourning over him. He
sailed away with them to be healed of his grievous wound. Some say
that he was afterwards buried in a chapel near, others declare that he
still lives in fairy land, and will reappear in latter days, to reinstate the
Order of Knights of the Bound Table, and rule his beloved England, per-
fect as he once tried <o make it, but in vain.' — The reader will scarcely
need to be referred to Sir Thomat Malory's 'Morte d' Arthur' and Tenny-
son's 'Idylls of the King'.
From Tintagel to Boscastle by the *Cliffs, 4Vs-6 M. (2-3 hrs.), a
charming walk. There is a kind of path for most of the way, but
there is a good deal of 'up and down' on the walk, and the crossing of
the 'Rocky Valley' (see below) is rather rough. Beyond Barrett Nose, the
headland to the N. of Tintagel Head, we reach Bossiney Cove. The de-
tached rocks off Willapark Point are called the Sisters and Lye Rock, and
farther on are Long Island and Short Island. Beyond Bossiney Cove
we reach the so-called BockyValley, the picturesque and somewhat chaotic
channel of a little stream, which here enters the sea. Our path deserts
us here and we are left to choose our own line in crossing the valley;
but the scenery is pretty enough to make a slight detour acceptable and
may even tempt to an exploration of the valley up to the Mill, about
1/2 M. inland. Beyond the next promontory we skirt two small bays,
cross anolher depression, and pass a slate-quarry. To the left lies tha
island of Qrowar. We then reach the deep and gloomy Blackpit, the bottom
of which may be reached by an easy path. The promontory beyond this,
also named Willapark, and crowned by a tower, forms the S. buttress of
Boscastle Harbour. To reach the village we turn to the right.
Another favourite coast walk from Tintagel is to Trebarwith Sands,
l'/a M. to the S. Not far off is a fine cave, accessible by boat only.
The road from Tintagel to Boscastle (about 3 M.) affords only
occasional views of the sea. After about 1 M. beyond Bossiney, we
,

have a good view to the left of the *Rocky Valley, stretching down
to the shore. About ^4 M. farther on, to the right, is a board indi-
cating the way to St. Nighton's Kieve, a small waterfall of the stream
which lower down flows through the Rocky Valley.
ifter obtaining the key we follow the lane which here diverges to
the right, and after passing four gates on the right, we come to (12 min.)
a grassy lane on the same side. On reaching the fields we bend to the
left, still following the (rack, cross a stile, and pass two white gates,
below the second of which is the padlocked entrance to the 'Fall,
prettily embowered in wood. In returning we vary the route by cross-
ing a stile between the padlocked gate and the second white door men-
tioned above and following the path that descends along the stream.
To the left, */2 M. farther on, is the hamlet of Trevalga, beyond
which we next reach (3/4 M.) Forrabury. Another 1/2 M. brings us
to Boscastle (9 M. from Camelford).
Boscastle, i.e.'Bottreaux Castle' (Wellington, R. & A. 4s. 6d.,
table d'h6te B. 2s. 6d., table d'hote D. 3s. 6rf.) is a quaint little place,
which improves on acquaintance. Though quite near, the sea is
156 Route 19. BUDE. From New Quay

not visible but a walk down either side of the curiously tortuous
;

littleharbour soon brings it into sight. The entrance to the harbour

is singularly picturesque, and should be viewed from the promon-
tories on both sides. To the right we obtain a distant view of
handy (p. 159), made conspicuous at night by its lighthouse. The
coach stops here long enough for a visit to the harbour.
To Tintagel and St. Mghton's Kieve, see above. —
About l /i M. to the l

E., reached via Forrabury (p. 155), is Minster, with an interesting little
church (key at Boscastle), formerly the chancel of an 'alien' priory of
Angevin monks. —
To reach "Pentargain Cove, with its tiny waterfall, we
cross the bridge (starting from the hotel) and ascend the steep road to
the right. In /^ M. we reach a hoard, on the right, indicating the way
1

to a farm-house, where the key is obtained (small fee expected). The

gate to unlock is on the other side of the road, opposite the notice-board,
and the path down to the cove is unmistakable.
Pentargain Cove may also he taken' in as part of the interesting hut
somewhat long and fatiguing cliff-walk to Bude, a distance of 14 M. (6-7
hrs.). Some of the finest points to the N. of Pentargain are High Cliff
(700 ft.), Cambeak, Crackington Cove, Hazard Point, Mill-hook Mouth, and
the Black Rock. Refreshments may be obtained at a farm-house at St. Oen-
ny^s (no inn), not quite halfway. All but very energetic pedestrians will
take various opportunities of cutting off the sinuosities of the coast.
The road fromBoscastle to Bude (16 M. coach thrice weekly, ;

6s. ; and pair about 30s.) passes nothing calling for special
carr.
description. The view as we approach Bude, passing Marhamchurch
on the right, is attractive. Bude or Bude Haven (Falcon; Bude), a
rising little watering-place, is a convenient starting-point for ex-
ploring a fine coast and is connected by coaches with Boscastle,
,

Tintagel, Camelford, Clovelly, Bideford, Holsworthy, and Laun-

ceston. Bude Castle, on the left bank of the stream, is a modern
mansion.
The finest bits of the coast in the immediate vicinity of Bude are
Compass Point (with its tower) , the S. arm of the haven , and Efford
Beacon (view), a little farther to the S. —
In the opposite direction the
favourite excursion is to follow the cliffs to (4 M.) the Duck Pool, and
then to proceed inland, through the Combe Valley, to (3 l /2 M.) Kilkhampton
(see below), whence we return to (5M.)Bude vid (^jiVL.) Stration(se,e below).
Near the point where we turn inland is Stoic the site of Sir Richard
,

Grenville's house (see Westward Ho').

'
—
Following the coast from the
Duck Pool (see above), we pass (1 M.) the Lower Sharpnose, (1 M.) Slaribury
Mouth, and (1 M.) the Upper Sharpnose, and reach (3 j\ M.) Morwenstow
(Inn), now a well-known place through its late vicar, the Rev. R. S. Hawk-
er (d. 1875) whose Cornish ballads should be familiar to all visitors
,

to this iron-bound coast (see the interesting Life of him, by the Rev. S.
Baring -Gould ; also Hawker's 'Footprints of Former Men in Cornwall').
The church of Morwenstow is a most interesting building, said to have
been originally founded by St. Morwenna, a Welsh princess of the 5th cen-
tury. The oldest parts of the present structure are Norman. Over the
door of the vicarage is a curious rhymed inscripton. A little to the S. is
Tonacombe, a fine example of a manor-house of the 16th century. On the —
coast, just to the N. of Morwenstow, is the lofty Hennacliff, whence the
walk may be prolonged to (7 M.) Hartland Quay and 0. h ^.) Hartland
l

Point (see p. 1°9).

The road from Bude to Bideford passes (l!/2 M.) Stratton (Tree
Inn), a little to the N.W. of which is Stamford Hill, where Sir
Beville Grenville (tomb in Kilkhampton Church) defeated the
 toBideford. CLOVELLY. 19. Route. 157

Parliamentarians in 1643. One of the curious inclined planes on

the Bude fy Holaworthy Canal (p. 135) is within i l /2 M. (S. E.)
of Stratton. — About 372 M. beyond Stratton we reach. Kilkb.am.p-
ton (Inn), with a partly Norman, partly Perp. ^Church, containing
some fine carved benches. The halfway house is West Country Inn,
572 M farther on. At (472 M.) Clovelly Cross, 16 M. from Bude,
-

the coach is met by a waggonette, which receives passengers for

(I72 M.) Clovelly (no extra charge).
Those who prefer to walk should take the second turning to the right,
following the telegraph wires, and so reach the New Road Gate (see be-
low) and the village. Carriages cannot go farther than the New Road
Gate, and luggage is taken thence to the village on sledges or on don-
key-back.
Clovelly (*JVew Inn, halfway down the street, R.&A. 3s., table
d'hote 3s. 6d. *RedLion, small, at the pier, R. & A. 3s.), decidedly
;

the quaintest and perhaps the most beautiful little village in all
Devon, lies in a narrow and richly-wooded combe, descending ab-
ruptly to the sea. It consists of one main street, or rather a main
staircase, with a few houses climbing on each side of the combe so
far as thenarrow space allows. The houses, each standing on a higher
or lower level than its neighbour, are all whitewashed, with gay
green doors and lattices, and the general effect is curiously foreign-
looking, though, perhaps, Amain is almost the only foreign parallel
that can be suggested. Clovelly is a Paradise for artists, and exquis-
ite subjects for sketches present themselves at every corner.
One of the most characteristic views is that looking down the main
street, with the sea far below and in the background. The views
from the quaint little pier and (better still) from the sea, with the
pier in the foreground, are also very striking. The foundations of
the cottages at the lower end of the village are hewn out of the
living rock. The New Inn, which contains an interesting collection
of china, is often full in summer and it is advisable to telegraph
for rooms beforehand. Otherwise visitors may have to put up
with the clean but lowly accommodation of a fisherman's cottage.
The following is Dickens's description of this wonderful little village,
taken from 'A Message by the Sea'.
u
'And a mighty sing'lar and pretty place it is, as ever I saw in all
the days of my life , said Captain Jorgan, looking up at it. Captain Jor-
1

gan had to look high to look up at it, for the village was built sheer up
the face of a steep and lofty cliff. There was no road in it, there was no
wheeled vehicle in it, there was not a level yard in it. From the sea-
beach to the cliff top, two irregular rows of white houses, placed oppo-
site to one another, and twisting here and there, and there and here,
rose like the sides of a long succession of stages of crooked ladders, and
you climbed up the village or climbed down the village by the staves
between, some six feet wide or so, and made of sharp irregular stones.
The old pack-saddle, long laid aside in most parts of England as one of
the appendages of its infancy, flourished here intact. Strings of pack-
horses and pack-donkeys toiled slowly up the staves of the ladders, bear-
ing fish and coal, and such other cargo as was unshipping at the pier
from the dancing fleet of village boats, and from two or three little
coasting traders. As the beasts of burden ascended laden or descended
,

light, they got so lost at intervals in the floating clouds of village smoke,
 ;

153 Route 10. CLOVELLY. From New Quay

that they seemed to dive down some of the village chimneys, and come
to the surface again far off, high ahove others. No two houses in the
village were alike in chimney, size, shape, door, window, gable, roof-tree,
anything. The sides of the ladders were musical with water, running
clear and bright. The staves were musical with the clattering feet of
the pack-horses and pack-donkeys, and the voices of the fishermen urging
them up, mingled with the voices of the fishermen's wives, and their
many children. The pier was musical with the wash of the sea, the
creaking of capstans and windlasses, and the airy fluttering of little vanes
and sails. The rough sea-bleached boulders of which the pier was made,
and the whiter boulders of the shore, were brown with drying nets. The
red-brown cliffs, richly wooded to their extremest verge, had their soft-
ened and beautiful forms reflected in the bluest water, under the clear
North Devonshire sky of a November day, without a cloud. The village
itself was so steeped in autumnal foliage, from the houses giving on the
pier, to the topmost round of the topmost ladder, that one might have
fancied it was out a-bird's-nesting , and was fas indeed it was) a wonder-
ful climber".
Clovelly, being the only harbour in Bideford Bay, W. of the Taw,
has long been an important herring -fishing place. Its name occurs in
Domesday, and some authorities even maintain that there was a Roman
station here and that the name is a corruption of 'Clausa Vallis'.
After familiarising himself with the quaint beauties of Clovelly,
not forgetting to explore the 'back-staircases', the tourist makes
his way to the *Hobby Drive, an avenue 3 M. in length affording ,

at intervals charming views of land and sea, including the coast of

South Wales (adm. 4d., weekly ticket Is. carr. Is., with two horses
;

Is. Qd. closed on Sun.).

•
We enter the drive by the New Road
Gate (p. 157) and emerge at the other end on the Bideford road,
near the 8th milestone from Bideford. We may vary the route in
returning by following this road to ( 3 /4 M.) Clovelly Cross (p. 157),
and visiting the adjacent circular earth-works known as Clovelly
Dikes or Ditchen Hills (extensive view).
Hobby Drive belongs to the owner of Clovelly Court, the grounds
immediately surrounding which are entered by Yellery Oate, op-
posite the New Road Gate and a little farther to the W. (adm. 6d.
closed on Tues. and Sat., but open free on Sun.). The walk along
the seaward side of the park to (li/4 M.) Gallantry Bower (390 ft.),
affords perhaps
,
the most perfect combination of sea and wood-
,

land scenery in England. The *View from the lofty bluff is

magnificent. From Gallantry Bower we descend to (1/2 M.) *Mouth
Mill, a romantic, rock-strewn little cove at the end of a wooded
combe through which we may return to the road a little to the
,

W. of Clovelly. Perhaps the best plan is to take the higher of the

two tracks on the E. side of the cove this leads back through part
;

of the grounds of Clovelly Court (fine trees) and brings us out

(bending to the left) on a road near the house and church. But
we can scarcely go wrong in following the general direction of the
stream. The whole round is about 5 M.
In calm weather Mouth Mill may he reached by small boat (about
2*. Qd.), an excursion which reveals Gallantry Bower to full advantage.
Those who are equal to a very rough and uncomfortable walk
may at low water scramble alon^ the shingle to the E. of Clovelly as
 to Bideford. tTJNDY. 19. Route. 159

far as (2'/2 M.) Bucks Mill, whence a lane ascends to the Bideford Road.
On the way we pass a curious natural archway of rock and one or two
small waterfalls descending from the cliffs (apt to disappear in dry wea-
ther), the first of which is the Freshwater of 'Westward Ho !' (chap. v.).
According to a local tradition the inhabitants of Bucks are the descendants
of ship-wrecked Spaniards.
The road running due W. from Clovelly Cross leads to (4 MJ- Hart-
land Town {King's Arms), and thence to (2 M.J Stoke and (1 M.) Hartland
Quay. [A mail-brake runs daily from Clovelly to Hartland Town ; fare 1».]
The church at Stoke, sometimes called the 'Cathedral of North Devon',
is a handsome edifice with a lofty Perpendicular tower and a fine rood-
screen. Hartland Abbey, •/« M. to the N. E. of Stoke , is a modern man-
sion, built on the site of an Augustine monastery and incorporating some
remains of the E.B. cloisters. The cliff- scenery at Hartland Point, the
extreme N.W. angle of Devon, 2 M. to the N. of Hartland Quay and
4 M. by road from Hartland Town, is very imposing. There is a light-
house here. A pleasant drive may also be made to Blackmouth Mill, on
the coast 3 /« M. to the N. of Hartland Quay, by a private road through
the grounds of Hartland Abbey (permission obtained at the King's Arms).
Clovelly is the nearest point for a visit to (17 M.) Lundyf (sailing-
boat 20-30j.), which should not be attempted except in calm weather,
Mail-skiff from Instow, see p. 160; steamer from Ilfracombe, see p. 161.
The island, which was formerly a gTeat resort of pirates and smugglers,
is 3'/2 M. long and 1 /i- 3 /t M. broad. It belongs to a family named Heaven,
and contains about threescore inhab., who occupy themselves in farming
and in the lobster and other fisheries. A walk round the island reveals
much fantastic rock scenery, to many points of which appropriate names
have been given. Probably the best-known is the towering Shutter Sock
at the S. end of the island, which plays a prominent part in one of
the most powerful scenes in 'Westward Ho ' (chap. xxxn). A good view
!

is obtained from the top of Ihe Lighthouse, about 2'/2 M. from the Shutter.
In summer Clovelly is frequently visited by an excursion-steamer
from Ilfracombe, by which some may prefer to continue their journey;
but it is not convenient for the transport of luggage, as passengers embark
in small boats.— Besides the tri-weekly coach from Bude, passing Clovelly
Cross, Clovelly has daily direct communication with (11 M.) Bideford by
a mail-brake (fare 3s.), starting from New Road Gate.
Fbom Clovelly to Bideford. For this part of the route even
pedestrians may follow the road; but whether walking or driving
the traveller should go by the lovely Hobby Drive (p. 158) for the
first 3 M. The mail-brake takes this route in summer, and it is as
easy to catch the Bude coach at the London Lodge of the Hobby
as at Clovelly Cross. The road for 5 M. or so beyond the Hobby
Gate lacks interest, though relieved by views of the sea. It passes
the hamlets of West and East Bucks (comp. above). Refreshments
may be obtained at the Hoops Inn, halfway between Clovelly and
Bideford. Beyond (2 M.) Fairy Cross and (3 /4 M.) Ford the road
becomes pleasantly shaded. Those who have time should diverge
to the left at a point about 1 M. beyond Ford and follow the some-
what longer road via. Abbotsham, a village with a small but inter-
esting church. As we approach Bideford we have a view to the
left of the estuary of the Taw.
Bideford (Royal, new, on the right bank of the river, near the
station ; New Inn, in the highest part of the town, with view , Tan-

t 'Island' is a pleonasm, as the 'y', i. e. 'ey', in Lundy means island.

 ;;

160 Route 20. BARNSTAPLE. From Bideford

ton's, on the river, near the bridge ; Newfoundland, unpretending

Rail. Buffet), a small but busy port and fishing-town, is pleasantly
situated on the Torridge, about 3 M. above its estuary. The 'little
white town of Bideford' (pron. 'Biddyford'), well known from the
description in 'Westward Ho !', contains little to arrest the tourist
but before leaving it he should ascend to (•/* hr.) Chudleigh's Fort
for the sake of the view. We cross the long bridge (24 arches),
originally built in the 14th cent, but afterwards widened, and ascend
past the station, soon turning to the left and passing through a farm-
gate (2d.). The fort, a small modern earthwork on the site of an
earlier fortification, commands an extensive view up and down the
Torridge.
Omnibuses (fare Is.) and mail-brakes (6<Z.) run daily from Bideford
Station to Westward Ho (Royal Hotel; Pebble Ridge Hotel), a rising little
watering-place, 2'/2 M. to the N.W., named from Kingsley's well-known
novel. To the N. are the Northam Burrows, one of the best golfing-grounds
in England. They are separated from the sea by the Pebble Ridge, resem-
bling Chesil Bank at Portland (p. 98). —Still farther to the N. &ji M.),
at the point where the Torridge flows into the estuary of the Taw,
lies Appledore (Inn), the busy little foreport of Bideford.
From Bidefoed to Tokeington, 5 M., railway in 12 min., passing
(left) Wear Clifford, a village with a Perp. church and a 15th cent, manor-
house (fine hall). Near Bideford lies Torrington (Olobe), a small and
ancient town, where General Fairfax won a decisive battle over the Royal-
ists in 1646.
From Bideford to Barnstaple and llfracombe, see R. 20.

20. From Bideford to Barnstaple and llfracombe.

24 M. Railway in 1V4-1 3 A hr. (fares 4s. Gd., 3s., Is. liy2 d.).
Bideford, see above. The train descends the E. bank of the
Torridge to (3 M.) Instow Quay (Marine Inn) a small watering-
,

place and port at the mouth of the river, opposite Appledore (see
above). A mail-skiff plies hence every alternate Thurs. to Lundy
(p. 159 ;fare 5s., return 7s. 6d). — The train now turns to the right
and ascends the 8. bank of the estuary of the Taw. 6 M. Fremington.
9 M. Barnstaple (Qolden Lion ; Fortescue Arms ; Rail. Rfmt.
Rooms), locally Barum, a thriving and well-built town with 12,500
inhab.,|is situated on the N. bank of the Taw, about 8 M. from the
sea. It was an important seaport at an early period in English
history, and still carries on a considerable trade. It possesses three
railway-stations, all connected with each other: Barnstaple Junction
(L. S. W. R.J, for London via Exeter and Salisbury, and for Bideford
and llfracombe Barnstaple (0. W.R.), 3/4 M. from the first, for
;

London via Taunton andBristol, and for llfracombe and Barnstaple

;

Town Station, !/2 M. from the first, on the N. side of the Taw. The
only buildings of interest in the town are the Parish Church, dating
in part from the 14th cent. but freely restored ; the Grammar
,

School, formerly St. Anne's Chapel ; Queen Anne's Walk, a colon-

nade of last century ; and the new Literary Institute. There is also
an interesting church at Pilton, l fa M. to the N., and another at
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 to Ilfracombe. ILFRACOMBE. 20. Route. 161

(4 M.) Swimbridge, a station on the railway to Taunton (p. 128).

A pleasant Promenade skirts the river on the E. side of the town,
and the Rock Park may also he mentioned.
From Barnstaple to Taunton, see p. 128; to Exeter, see p. 105. —
Coaches also run from Barnstaple to (18 M.) Lynlon (fare 6s.).
The Ilfracomhe train crosses the Taw to the Town Station (see
p. 160), and runs along the N. hank of the river. It then turns to
the right (N.) and stops at (14 M.) Wrafton and (15 M.) Braunton,
the church of which has an E.E. chancel, a Perp. tower, and some
good carved pews. Braunton Burrows lie to the S.W. —
21 M.
Morthoe fy Lee (Fortescue Inn). The village of Morthoe (see p. 162)
lies 2 M. to the W., and Lee (p. 162) ahout the same distance to
the N. The train then descends the E. side of the Slade Valley to —
24 M. Ilfracomhe. — Hotels. Ilfracombe Hotel, an extensive
building facing the sea, with large swimming and other baths, etc.,
R. & A. from 4*., table d'hote B. 2s. 6d., D. 6s., 'pens', in winter 31. 3s.
per week; *Royal Clarence, High St., R. & A. from 3s. 8d., table d'hote
D. 4s. 6<2., table d'hote B. 2s. 6d. ; "Belgrave Private Hotel, near the
Ilfracombe Hotel; Britannia, at the Pier; Queen's, Great Wkstkkn,
Victoria, all in High St. — Hotel and railway omnibuses meet the prin-
cipal trains.
Cabs. With 1 horse (for 1-2 pers.) Is. per mile; each addit. '/s M. Gd.;
each addit. pers. 3d.; with 2 horses Is. Gd., 9<J., Gd. by time (1-4 pers.)
;

2s. Gd. per hr. and Is. each addit. Vz It. for one-horse cabs 3s. 9<J. and
;

Is. Gd. for two-horse cabs. To Watermouth Castle and back (1-4 pers.)
4s., with stay of 1 hr. 5s.; to Lee Beach and back, with stay of 1 hr.,
1-2 pers. 6s., 3-4 pers. 7s.; to Morthoe Church and back (1-4 pers.), with
2 hrs. stay, 8s.; to Combe Martin, with stay of 1 hr., 7s. Donkey-carriages,
V2 M. Gd., 1 M. 8d., each addit. V2 M. 4<J. ; per hr. Is., each addit. '/s 1".
Gd. (bargaining desirable for the longer excursions, to the Downs, etc.).
Sailing Boats per hr. for 1-5 pers. 2s. 6d., each addit. pers. Gd. —
Rowing Boats 10s. Gd. per day, Is. Gd. per hr. (1-4 pers.), each pers.
beyond four Gd. extra. Boat to or from a steamer 3d. each pers.
Steamers ply regularly to Swansea (6s., 4s.) and Bristol, and excursion-
steamers also ply occasionally to Clovelly (return-fares 4s. Gd., 3s.), Lundy
(4s. Gd., 3s.), and Lynmouth (single 2s. Gd., return 3s. 6d.).
Coach to Lynton, see p. 166.
Bathing Coves for ladies and gentlemen in Wildersmouth Bay, below
the Tor Walks and approached by tunnels through the rock.
Ilfracombe, picturesquely situated at the mouth of the Bristol
Channel, is one of the most fashionable watering-places in Devon,
with ahout 7000 residents. Its chief attractions are its fine air
(which, teste Charles Kingsley, 'combines the soft warmth of South
Devon with the bracing freshness of the Welsh mountains'), the
picturesque rock-bound coast, and the numerous pleasant excur-
sions that may be made in all directions. Formerly it was a seaport
of some consideration, and it contributed six vessels to the English
fleet at a time (14th cent.) when Liverpool sent only one.
The only building calling for mention is the prominently-
situated Parish Church, a Perp. structure with Norman and E.E.
features. Two memorial stones outside the S. aisle of the chancel
record the names of seven local centenarians. —
The top of Capstone
Hill (180 ft.), the conical turf-clad bluff to the E. of Wildersmouth
Bay, commands an excellent view of the town. At its foot is the
Baedeker's Gieai_Britain. 2nd Edit. \\
1 62 Route 20. ILFRACOMBE.
Victoria Promenade, where a band plays and con-
a covered arcade
certs are given. To the
on the outer side of the harbour, is
E.,
Lantern Hill, a similar knoll, crowned with the ruins of an ancient
chapel, now converted into a harbour-light. A pleasant walk may
also be enjoyed on the Pier (ld.~), after which we may skirt the S.
side of the harbour to Rapparee Cove and ascend the lofty Heles-
borough (450 ft. extensive view; donkey nearly to the top, Is.).
;

The most frequented resort near Ilfracombe is the *Tor Walks,

a promenade running along the seaward side of the hills to the W.
of the town and almost challenging comparison with the Great
,

Orme Drive at Llandudno (p. 282). The entrance (adm. Id.) is

near the Baths, Northfleld Road. From the middle of the Tor Walks
we may descend to the pretty little White Pebble Bay, on the W.
side of Tor Point. By climbing the fence at the end of the Tor
Walks and keeping to the left (inland) across the downs, we can
join the path to Lee described below.
Environs. Walk to Lee and Mokthoe, 5-6 M. Starting from High
St. we follow Church St. and proceed in a straight direction, passing to
the left of the church, to a narrow lane ascending to the open cliffs (Lee
Downs). Or we may ascend Church Hill, pass to the right of the church,
and climb a zigzag path, at the top of which we turn to the left and
soon reach the above-mentioned lane (to the right). The walk along the
Downs to (2 ! /2 M.) Lee is very pleasant. A little way down the descent
to Lee Beach we pass a stile and notice-board on the left, indicating
the nearest way to "Lee Hotel, which lies in the valley about '/z M. from
the sea. We may return from Lee by the road, which passes through
Slade Valley. —
Those who wish to prolong the walk to Morthoe ascend
the steep track to the W. of Lee Beach, and soon reach P/2 M.) a sign-
post pointing the way on the left to (211.) Mortboe station (p. 161). We
keep straight on, however, and pass through two gates, beyond the
second of which is a sign-post showing the way to Bull Point. At the
gate which we next pass we descend to the left along the hedgerow and
soon strike the path again. On crossing the brook at the bottom of the
combe we take the higher path, ascending to the left, which soon brings
us to the (1 M.) road, close to a white gate. To visit O/2 M.) Bull Point
Lighthouse we pass through this gate, to which we have to return in
any case to pursue our route to Morthoe. For the latter we follow the
road towards the left, passing through several other gates, to (l'/2 M.)
Morthoe (Chichester Inn), with an E.E. church (restored), containing the
interesting tomb of William de Tracey (1322), generally confounded with
Thomas Becket's murderer (see pp. 28, 130). About 1/2 M. farther on is
Barracane Bay, the beach of which is composed almost wholly of shell-
debris and adjoining this on the W. are the extensive sands of Wolla-
;

combe Bay. (Donkey from Barracane Bay to Morthoe 3-6d. ; seat in a

vehicle from Morthoe to Morthoe station Sd.) About 1 M. due W. of
Morthoe is Morte Point, a savage rocky promontory that does not belie
its name, commanding a fine view. It is reached by passing across the
land of a farmer who charges 2d. for the privilege. There is a local
saying to the effect that 'Morte is the place on earth which Heaven
made last and the Devil will take first'. We may now return to Ilfra-
combe by coast, road, or railway (see p. 161).
Another popular short walk is to Two Pots (730 ft.), 21/2 M. to the
S. We may go by the old Barnstaple road along the ridge, leading S.
from Church St., and return by the new road through the valley.
A third favourite excursion is the walk or drive to (4»/4 M.) Combe
Martin which is described helow as part of the charming route to
,

Lynton and Lynmouth (B. 21). Hele, Berry Narbor, and Watermouth, see
 COMBE MARTIN. 21. Route. 163
below. Excureions may also be made to Chambercotnbe, to (7 M.) Braunton
and Braunton Burrows (p. 161), to (6 M.) Georgeham, Bideford, Barnstaple
(coach via Braunton 3s., return-fare 4«. Gd.), etc.
No one should leave Ilfracombe on his return towards the E. without
having seen Clovelly (p. 157).

21. From Ilfracombe to Lynton (Lynmouth) and

Minehead.
Comp. Map. p. 160.
37 M. This route may be accomplished
either by road or by cliff-
path along the coast. All tolerable pedestrians are strongly advised
to choose the latter, which is one of the most charming walks in
England. In either case the journey should be broken for at least
a night or two at Lynton or Lynmouth (p. 166). —
During summer
Coaches ply daily from Ilfracombe to (17 M.) Lynton (fare 4-5». ; return
Is.), and from Lynton to (20 M.) Minehead (6s. 6d.); and it is possible to
make the entire journey in one day. Walkers may obtain night-quarters
at Combe Martin, Hunter's Inn, Lynton, and Porlock.

a. By Road.
We leave Ilfracombe by Larkstone Terrace and skirt the S. base
of Helesborough (p. 162) to (l'/> M.) Hele, below which, to the left,
is the pretty little Hele Bay. The old road to Lynton here diverges
to the right, passing (2 M.) Berry Narbor, the birthplace of Bishop
Jewell (1522-71), a village with a Perp. church and an old manor-
house (now a farm), and rejoins the new road at (l'/2 M.) Combe
Martin (see below). We
continue to follow the coast-road. l*/4 M.
(2 3 /4M. from Ilfracombe) Watermouth, a picturesque little harbour,
with a large modern castle. By crossing a small stone bridge to the
left we may visit the Smallmouth Caves , in a rocky little glen
descending to the sea. Opposite the castle is an iron gate admitting
to a path by which the foot-passenger may cut off about '/2 M. After
about 1 M. more we reach Sandabay, and VaM. farther we find our-
selves at the seaward end of the long village of Combe Martin
(King's Arms), which stretches inland for a distance of l J /4 M. The
church, partly E.B. and partly Perp., has a beautiful Perp. tower,
100 ft. high. The hill to the left is named the Little Hangman
(755 ft.) and beyond it, farther to the E., is the Qreat Hangman
;

or Ourt Down (1030 ft.). At the end of Combe Martin a rough

cross-country road diverges to the left to Trentishoe (p. 165) and
so to Lynton, but the coach-road ascends to the right (inland),
affording good retrospects of the coast. At (4^4 M.) Blackmore Oate
(formerly a toll-bar) we turn to the left and descend to (i 3/t M.)
Parracombe (Inn), 6 M. from Lynton, beyond which we again
ascend and soon obtain a view of the sea near Heddon's Mouth.
The last part of the route descends through the valley of the West
Lyn , which beyond (4 M.) Barbrook Mill is very picturesque.
From (3/4 M.) Lyn Bridge (Inn) the descent to Lynton is rather
steep. At the ( 3 /4 M.) fork those bound for Lynton (p. 166) keep
11*
164 Route 21. EXMOOR. From Ilfracombe
to the left, while those for Lynmouth (p. 166) descend to the
right.
To continue our journey to Minehead we cross the bridge at
Lynmouth and ascend the long and steep hill (fine retrospects) to
the right to (2 M.) Countisbury (Blue Ball Inn). About halfway
up, a path on the left diverges to Sillery Sands.
Beyond Countisbury the road skirts the N. margin of Exmoor
Forest, a tract of hilly moorland, about 30 sq. M. in extent, and in
many respects resembling a miniature Dartmoor (seep. 137), though
the granite tors of the latter are here replaced by the less rugged
outlines of slate and sandstone formations. Itis known for its ponies,
of which the genuine breed is now rare, its red cattle, and its
sheep. It is the only part of England where the red deer still
occurs in a wild state, and the Exmoor stag -hounds attract
numerous visitors (comp. p. 128). Good fishing is afforded by
the numerous streamlets traversing the Forest. The highest
point of Exmoor is Dunkery Beacon (1707 ft. p. 164), and many
;

of its other hills attain an elevation of 1200-1600 ft. For excur-

sions into or across Exmoor, see pp. 167, 168.
About 1 M. from Countisbury a road on the right descends to
the valley of the Brendon (p. 167). To the left we have fine views
over the Bristol Channel, with the Welsh coast in the background.
Farther on we pass, on the left, the Old Barrow (1135 ft.) and the
entrance to Glenthorne (p. 168 seen below, to the left), and then
;

at (2'/2 M.) County Gate (1060 ft.) we leave Devon and enter
Somerset. To the right are Malmsmead and the Badgeworthy Glen
(p. 167). A road on the same side diverges to (*/2 M.) Oare Church
and the Exmoor Kennels (seen below, to the right). On the right,
3'/2 M. farther on, a road diverges to Oareford, and at the so-called
(1 M.) White Stones another on the same side leads to (5M.) Exford
(White Horse), an angling resort on the Exe. The old road to
West Porlock and Porlock (good views) diverges to the left about
/i M. farther on, while the easier but less attractive new road leads
i

in a straight direction to (2*/2 M. 13 M. from Lynmouth)

;
—
Porlock (Lorna Boone ; *Ship, unpretending Castle), a pictur-
;

esque little village about /2 M. from the sea, between Porlock Hill
]

and Bossington Beacon. About 1 M. to the W., on the old road, is

West Porlock, and */2 M. beyond it, on the coast, is the little har-
bour of Porlock Weir (*Anchor Inn).
Porlock is the best starting-point for an ascent (2-3 hrs.) of Dunkery
Beacon (1707 ft.), which rises about 4 M. to the S. Driving is practicable,
via luckham, to a point within easy reach of the top, but the best
pedestrian route is by Homer Woods and Clontsham. The summit,
which is marked by a cairn, commands an extensive view, including
Brown Willy (p. 153), Dartmoor, the Bristol Channel, and the S. Welsh
coast. —The descent may be made on the S.W. side to (3i/2 M.) Exford
(see ahove), whence we may go on to (4 l /2 M.) Simontbath (p. 16S).

Beyond Porlock the road leads somewhat circuitously to (2 M.)

Tlolnicote, where it skirts the park of Sir Thomas Acland (to the
 to Minehead. VALLEY OF ROCKS. 22. Route. 165

right). The coach goes straight on to (41/2 M.) Minehead , but

carriages should diverge to the left and follow the much pret-
tier road through Selworlhy Green. The two roads reunite at a
point about 2!/2 M. from Minehead (see p. 168).

b. By the Coast.
As far as (-I'^M.) Combe Martin this route coincides with that
just described. Instead, however, of traversing the whole length
of this village , we turn to the left at the fountain, nearly oppo-
site the King's Arms Hotel and ascend towards Holstone Down
(1185 ft.). [We may, however, go on to the end of the village
before turning to the left. The roads unite on the top of the
Down, and sign-posts keep us right.]The steep ascent from Combe
Martin is the worst bit of the walk, and the view is limited.
After about 2 M., however, we reach the top of the moor, beyond
which we have easy walking and views of increasing attractiveness.
As we descend to (3 M. ; 5 M. from Combe Martin) Trentishoe, we
have a good view of the sea in front of us. From Trentishoe we
descend rapidly to a beautifully-wooded little combe through ,

which we proceed to (3/4 M.) *Hunter's Inn (unpretending), charm-

ingly situated in a valley about 1 M. from the sea (angling-ticket Is.
per day). From this point we may go on to (5 M.) Lynton by road,
joining the coach-road (p. 163) after 3 M. Walkers, however, turn
to the left and follow the path along the side of the combe in
which the inn lies. This is finely wooded at first, but changes its
character completely before reaching the sea at (1 M.) *Heddoris
Mouth, where the scene is one of singular wildness. From Heddon's
Mouth a path has been cut along the cliffs to (H/2M.) *WoodaBay,
one of the finest walks in England. Here our path merges in a
cart-track and at the fork we take the lower branch to the left,
,

soon, however, again ascending. Beyond Wooda Bay we reach Lee

Bay, and at its farther side we pass through (IV2 M.) a gate
opening on a private road across the grounds of Lee Abbey , a
modern mansion, which we pass on the left.
The promontory to the N. of the Abbey is called "Duty Point, and
permission to visit it may be obtained at the house. A legend relates
that a lady of the family of Whichchalse, the former owners of Lee
Abbey, here put an end to her grief by throwing herself into the sea.
— To continue our walk to Lynton we need not return to the Abbey, but
may make our way along the cliffs to the Valley of Rocks (see below).
We leave Lee Abbey grounds by another lodge-gate and enter
the so-called (V2 M.) *Valley of Books, with the Castle Rock (good
view from the top) to the left and the Cheesewring to the right.
The road through the valley leads to (IV2 M.) Lynton, but it is
better to follow the cliff-path (the *North Walk'), which diverges
to the left and leads round the rocky mass known as Ragged Jack,
beyond the Castle Rock. This path brings us ont about halfway
1 66 Route 21. LYNTON. From Hfracom.be

between Lynmouth and Lynton, the one lying below us to the left
and the other above us to the right.
Continuation of the route to Minehead, see p. 168.
Lynton and Lynmouth. — Hotels at Lynton: "Valley of Eocks,
table d'hote 5*., B. & A. is. 6d. "Castle, E. & A. 4*. Gd., D. 4s. Gd., these
;

two with fine views; Lynton Cottage, an annexe of the Castle, in pretty
grounds; Crown. — AX Lynmouth: Bath, well spoken of; Lynd ale Hotel,
E. & A. 3*. 6<2., table d'hote B. 2s., D. 3s.; -Toes Park Hotel, a depen-
dance of the last, on a hill overlooking the sea, E. 2s. 6<2., D. 3s.; Lyn-
mouth Private Hotel, with restaurant.
A Cliff Eailway (gradient 1 1 3/<)j opened in 1890, now connects Lyn-
:

mouth and Lynton, beginning near the pier and ending near the Vallev
of Eocks Hotel 0/2 min. ; return-fare 4d.). The railway is worked by
water-power, and the cars are drawn by steel ropes.
Lynton and Lynmouth, though actually as well as nominally
distinct, are in so many ways complementary to each other
that it would be inconvenient to treat of them separately.
Lynmouth, one of the loveliest villages in England, lies below,
at the mouth of the East Lyn and West Lyn, two little streams
which unite their waters just before reaching the sea. Lynton
stands 400 ft. higher, at the top of the steep cliff enclosing the
narrow little valley. Lynmouth has the advantage of being close
to the sea (though the bathing is not good), and is the natural
starting-point for many of the pleasantest valley-excursions. Lyn-
ton, on the other hand, enjoys finer views and a much more open
and bracing situation. There is a small pier at Lynmouth with a ,

tower at the end of it it commands a good view of the place.

;

Shelley stayed at Lynmouth for some time in 1812, soon after his
marriage with Harriet Westbrook. The 'myrtle-twined' cottage he occupied
was the last on the left, looking towards the sea; but it has been rebuilt
since his time.
The streams near Lynmouth afford excellent trout, salmon-peel, and
salmon fishing. Tickets are issued for various districts at charges rang-
ing from Is. for a day to 30-40s. for the season (information at the hotels).
The prettiest way from Lynton to Lynmouth or vice versa (about
,

Y2 M.), is through the grounds of the Lynton Cottage Hotel. Close

to the Lyndale Hotel is the gate of *Qlenlyn (adm. 6d. 1-3 pers.
;

Is. ;closed on Sun.), in the grounds of which is a pretty walk

(7-2 M.) along the lower course of the West Lyn. The mingled
rock, wood, and water scenery recalls the Torrent Walk at Dol-
gelley (p. 298). —
Perhaps the best view of the two villages and
their immediate surroundings is obtained from Summerhouse Hill or
Lyn Cliff, 'eight hundred feet of upright wall, which seem ready
to topple d own into the nest of be-myrtled cottages at its foot'; the
top is reached in Y2 nr by a path ascending from Lynmouth.
'

Excursions from Lynmouth and lynton.

1. To Wateesmeet, Bockfokd, and the Doone Valley, 10 M. We
leave Lynmouth by the road leading to the E., between the Lyndale Hotel
and a chapel, and beyond the last house take the path to the left. This
soon brings us to O/2 M.) a small bridge over the East Li/h, which we
cross. We then follow the path on the right bank of the stream, which
 to Minehead. DOONE VALLEY. 21. Route. 167
here runs through a narrow and richly wooded glen , with lofty wood-
clad or rocky hills on either side (fine views). After about i'/4 M. we cross
the river by a stone bridge, and in >/4 M. more reach a wooden bridge,
just below the confluence of the East Lyn and Combe Park Water,
which is known as the "Watersmeet. The best plan is to continue to
ascend on the left bank as far as the actual junction (just opposite a
cottage-villa on the other side) and pursue the path a few yards farther
to the rustic bridge over the Coombe Park stream. [Those who do not
wish to walk farther may now return to Lynmouth by the road, on the
left bank.] We then retrace our steps to the wooden bridge mentioned
above, cross to the right bank of the E. Lyn, and follow the path, which
continues to ascend the stream, passing at the back of the above-mentioned
cottage. Farther on, the path runs high above the river, passes through
Nutcombe Wood, crosses an open hillside, and re-enters the woods by a
wooden gate. A little farther on, a path diverges to the right to the
so-called "Long Pool, a dark and gloomy stretch of the river, at the end
of which is a small waterfall. Returning to the main path we soon
reach a bridge crossing to (2 M. from Watersmeet) Rockford (Inn). We
now follow the road, also leading along the left bank of the East Lyn,
or, as it is here called, Brendon Water, to (1 M.) Millslade (Abbey Inn).
The walking part of the excursion may be conveniently shortened by
hiring a pony-carriage (either at the inn or at a house at the other end
of the village) from Millslade to Malmsmead and back (5«. ; to Malmsmead,
and back to Lynmouth 8s.; waiting at Malmsmead included). — As we
leave Millslade the road from Countisbury (see p. 164) joins ours on the
left, while opposite begins the direct pedestrian route over the moors to
the (2 3/4 M.) Doone Valley. 2 M. Malmsmead consists of a group of two
or three small farmhouses, at which tea and plain refreshments may be
obtained. Carriages must be left here and the rest of the way pursued
on foot. We ascend the valley of the Badgeaorthy Water by a cart-track
for about l fa M., and then follow a footpath which runs along the stream.
After about '/a M. more a stream descending from the right into the Badge-
worthy Water is said to be that which suggested the 'Waterslide' in
Mr. Blackmore's well-known novel. Readers of 'Lorna Doone' will be
disappointed if they expect to find a close resemblance between the
descriptions of the book and the actual facts of nature. The 'Waterslide'
is a very mild edition of the one up which little John Ridd struggled so
painfully; and the *Doone Valley itself, instead of being defended by a
'fence of sheer rock' and approached by 'three rough arches, jagged,
black, and terrible', is enclosed by rounded though somewhat bleak moor-
land hills. The home of the Doones is a side-valley opening to the right
about >/» M. beyond the Waterslide; and remains of the foundations of
their huts may be observed on each side of the mound which divides it
into two branches. Towards the close of the 17th cent, this valley was
the stronghold of the Doones, a band of outlaws, who lived here, like a
Highland clan on the Lowland borders, by levying black-mail on the
country round. The tradition of their terrible strength and cruelty is
said to linger still in the neighbourhood ; particularly the story of their
fiendish cruelty in wantonly murdering a sleeping infant, an act which
finally roused the country to exterminate the entire nest of vipers. But
see 'Lorna Doone'.
By the direct road-route via Countisbury (comp. p. 164) Millslade,
,

and Malmsmead, the Doone Valley is 8V2 M. from Lynmouth, and walkers
may make it 1 M. shorter by passing direct from Millslade over the moor
to Badgeworthy (see above). We may now return by any of the routes
above indicated or we may farther vary the route by following the road
;

from Rockford (see above) to 0/2 M.) Brendon Church and ( 3/4 M.) Ilford
Bridges, near Combe Park date. We are here about 2>/2 M. from Lynton
or Lynmouth. The road straight on leads to Lyn Bridge (p. 163) and Lyn-
ton f that to the right descends by the Combe Park Water to a point
above the Watersmeet (see above) and so to Lynmouth, Summerhouse Hill
may be included by a digression from either road (sign-posts). —Walkers,
who wish to see some of the wildest parts of Exmoor, may proceed to
168 Route 21. GLENTHORNE. From Ilfracombe

the W. over the hill between the Badgeworthy valley and the (3'/2 M.)
Chalk Water valley and descend (left) along the latter stream to (l'/s M.)
Careford (p. 164), which is 2 M. by road (via. Oare) from Malmsmead.
2. To Simonsbath, 10 M. For this excursion, which takes us into
the heart of Exmoor, we may start from either Lynton or Lynmouth.
From the former we proceed by Lyn Bridge to (2!/2 M.) Ilford Bridges
(p. 167), while from the latter we reach the same point by the road
by which we began our walk to Watersmeet. From Ilford Bridges we
follow the road leading due S. (to the E. the road to Brendon, see above),
and after 1/2 M. turn to the left, passing Bridge Ball. We next O/4 M.)
turn to the right, beyond the gate of Brendon Parsonage, and thence
follow the road which leads to the S., straight across Exmoor (p. 164),
to (6'/2 M.) Simonsbath. The Forest proper is entered at (2V2 M.) the
so-called Two Gates (now one only), where we pass into Somerset. To
the left is the head of the Doone Valley (p. 167) ; to the right rise Chap-
man Barrows (1570 ft.) and Exe Head Mill. About l'/4 M. farther on we
cross the Exe. —
2 : /2 M. Simonsbath (Inn), on the Barle, is named from
a pool a little higher up, which tradition connects with Sigismund, the
dragon-slayer. From Simonsbath we go on (S.E.) by the Tor Steps to
(16 M.) Dulverton (see p. 128) or (due S.) to (10 M.) South Molton (p. 128).
The return-route to Lynmouth may be varied by proceeding to the E.
Exford, and thence to the N. to (5 M.) the White Stones (p. 164;
to (4'/2 M.)
10 M. from Lynmouth). —
A coach plies from Lynmouth to Dulverton
(p. 128; fare 6i. 6d.).
Other excursions which no visitor to Lynton-Lynmouth should fail
to make are those to the (1 M.) Valley of Rocks, (1 M.) Lee, and (4 M.)
Heddon's Mouth, and to (7 M.) Qlenthorne by the cliff-path (see below).
These should be preferred to the Simonsbath route. Short walks may
be taken to (2 M.) Countisbury via the Tors, to Hollardy Hill, at the E.
end of the North Walk (p. 165), to Sillery Sands (p. 164), etc.
Coaches to Ilfracombe, see p. 163; to Minehead, see p. 163; to Barn-
staple, see p. 161. —
Excursion Steamers ply in summer between Lyn-
mouth, Ilfracombe, and Bristol (p. 113).
Continuation of Coast Route to Minehead. From Lyn-
mouth to (2M.) Countisbury we follow the road described at p. 164.
Instead of continuing in a straight direction through the village,
we turn to the left, pass to the right of the church and follow an
,

obvious cliff-path, affording lovely views. To the left is the pro-

montory called the Foreland. This path ends after less than 1 M.,
near the edge of a wide and deep combe. We must choose our own
line in crossing this, and perhaps the easiest, though not the
shortest way, is to keep up the side of the combe to a point where
it becomes a good deal shallower. On the other side of the combe
we strike a cart-track, which we descend to the left (towards the
sea) as far as a (!/ 2 M.) gate. Beyond this the cart-track continues
to descend to Countisbury Cove, but we follow the higher path to
the right. At the next fork we take the lower path and follow it,
avoiding all divergences either up or down. After passing nu-
merous combes some wooded and some bare, we reach a small
,

iron gate (4 M. from Countisbury), marking the entrance to the

grounds of Glenthorne and a little later the footpath passes
,

through an archway and joins the avenue. This brings us in sight

of (!/2 M.) *Glenthorne House (not shown), picturesquely situated
on a small plateau overlooking the sea. Visitors are admitted to
all parts of the beautiful little glen, and those who do not fear a
 to Minehead. CULBONE. 21. Route. 169

small addition to the walk should follow part at least of the wind-
ing avenue leading to the road (3M. iy2 M. only in a straight line).
;

In continuing our coast-walk from Glenthorne House we cross

a small paddock, a road, and another field, and reach a gate leading
into the woods, where the coast-path proper is resumed. At first
it is sometimes not clear which of numerous diverging paths we
should follow, but as a rule we avoid descending and keep to the
right. In a short time we reach a deep wooded combe, which we
have to ascend towards the right for a considerable distance (partly
in zigzags) before we reach a feasible point for crossing. On the
other side we descend to the left, and reach a cart-track leading to
the right along the face of the cliffs, here mostly clothed with wood.
We keep as much as possible at the same level, avoiding side-
paths up and down, till we reach (4M. from Glenthorne) Culbone,
in a narrow little combe containing what is said to be the smallest
church in England (33 ft. long and 12ft. wide); refreshments at a
cottage. Until lately pedestrians were allowed to continue their
walk by a pleasant road leading through the grounds of Ashley
Combe, the seat of Lord Lovelace, whose first wife was Lord Byron's
daughter Ada (d. 1852). The house stands on an artificial plateau,
with a tunnel below it. This road, however, is now closed, and we
have to follow the old road, which runs a little lower down through
the luxuriant woods here clothing the steep slopes descending to
the sea. l'^M. Porlock Weir (* Anchor), 1/2 M. beyond which are
West Porlock and (1 M. farther) Porlock (p. 164). This is the end
of the finest part of the coast walk, and the traveller will not lose
much by completing his journey to (61/2 M.) Minehead by coach
(comp. p. 165). Those, however, who prefer to continue walking
proceed N. E. from Porlock to (1 M.) Bossington Beacon. They then
follow the top of the ridge, passing (1 M.) a cairn marking the
highest part of North Hill. About 2M. farther on they may diverge
to the left to visit (}/-i M.) Oreenaley, and make their way thence
by the coast to (l'^M.) Minehead ; or they may proceed to (O/2 M.)
Minehead direct along the ridge. Minehead, see p. 128.

22. From London to Gloucester and Hereford.

Valley of the Wye.
144 M. Great Westebn Railway in 4V4-6'/2 hrs. (fares 25*. 6d., 19*.
3d., 12*. S'/^d. ; return 42*. 6d., 32*. 3d.) ; to Gloucester (114 M.) in 3-4'/4 hrs.
(fares 20*., 15*., 9*. 6d. ; return 34*., 26*.).
From London (Paddington) to (7774 M.) Swindon, see R. 15. The
Gloucester linenow Tuns towards the N.W. and passes (81 M.)
Purton (p. liv) and (85V2 M.) Minety. —
91 M. Kemble Junction.
From Kemble to Cieencester, 4V2 M., railway in 10-15 minutes. —
Cirencester (Fleece; King's Head), pronounced Cisseter, the Corinium of
the Romans, is an ancient town with 8500 inhab., situated on the Churn,
amid the Cotswold Hills. 'Our town of Cicester in Gloucestershire' is
mentioned by Shakespeare (Richard IT., v. 6). It possesses one of the
 170 Route 22. GLOUCESTER. From London
chief wool-markets of England, and is also a hunting-centre of some re-
putation. The Parish Church, which has been carefully restored, is a
handsome Perp. building; it has a chapel with a beautiful fan-vaulted
roof, numerous brasses, and a tower 134 ft. high. The "Gorinium Museum
contains a good collection of Roman antiquities found in the neighbour-
hood. About 1 M. to the S. W. of the town is the well-known Royal
Agricultural College, A pleasant drive may be taken in Oakley Park,
belonging to Earl Bathurst, an ancestor of whom ('who plants like Bath-
urst') was frequently the host of Alexander Pope; Swift also writes
of his visits to Oakley. —About 3 M. to the W. is Thames Head, the reputed
source of the Thames. — An omnibus runs from Cirencester to (8 M.)
Fairford (p. 187; 1*. Gd.).
Another branch-line runs from Kemble Junction to (7 M.) Tetbury
(White Hart).
We now enter Gloucestershire. Beyond the long Sapperton
Tunnel we emerge in the picturesque valley of the Stroudwater. —
99 M. Brimscombe. —102 M. Stroud (Imperial; George ; Railway),
a cloth-manufacturing town with 7535 inhab., picturesquely situated
on the side of a hill. — 105 M. Stonehouse, which is also a station
on the Midland line from Bath to Gloucester (see p. 112). Beyond
Stonehouse the line runs side by side with the Midland Railway
for a short distance, and affords line views to the left of the Welsh
hills beyond the valley of the Severn. To the right rise the Cotswolds.

114 M. Gloucester. — Hotels. 'Bell, Southgate St., B. & A. is.;

Spread Eagle, Foregate St. ; New Inn, Northgate (see p. 171) ; Ham, South-
gate St.; Wellington, opposite the stations; Fowler's Temperance. —
Railway Refreshment Rooms.
American Consular Agent, Mr. Charles E. Portlock.
Cabs for 1-2 pers. Is. per mile, each addit. pers. Gd. ; per hour 2s. Gd.
— Tramways traverse some of the principal streets.
Railway Stations. The stations of the O. W. Railway (for London,
Hereford, Cheltenham, South Wales, etc.) and the Mid. Railway (for
Cheltenham, Birmingham, Bristol, etc.) adjoin each other in Station Boad.
Steamers (small and crowded) ply in summer to Tewkesbury (p. 182),
calling near Deerhurst (p. 183), and through the ship-canal to Sharpness
(p. 170).

Gloucester, a city and county of

itself, the capital of Gloucester-
shire, and the see of bishop (see p. 118), contains 36,550 inhab.
a
and is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Severn, on the
site of the British Caer Glowe ('fair city') and the Roman Glevum.
It carries on a considerable trade in agricultural produce and in the
minerals of the Forest of Dean (p. 177) and also imports large
quantities of corn and timber for Birmingham and the Midlands.
Its trade is facilitated by the Gloucester and Berkeley Ship Canal,
which joins the estuary of the Severn at Sharpness, 17 M. lower
down , where the river is crossed by a bridge 3/4 M. long. The
most outstanding event in the history of the city is the siege
of 1643, when it successfully resisted the Royalists for a month and
compelled them to retire. In consequence of this 'malignity' its
fortifications were dismantled at the Restoration. The ground-plan
of the Roman settlement is still preserved in the four main streets,
which meet at right angles in the centre of the town and are named
nfti-r the points of the compass (Northgale, Southyate, etc.).
 to Hereford. GLOUCESTER. 22. Route. 171

The *Cathedral (Holy Trinity), a very handsome and elaborate-

ly adorned building, occupies a site that has been consecrated to
religious purposes since the 7th century. A nunnery was founded
here by Wulphere, the first Christian king of Mercia, about 670,
and was followed by a monastery (821) which was transferred
,

from secular canons to Benedictine monks in 1022. In its pre-

sent form the body of the church is the work of Abbot Serlo, at
the end of the 11th cent. but this Norman core was most skil-
;

fully altered andrecased, chiefly in the 14th cent., and the general
external appearance of the edifice is thoroughly Perpendicular.
The interior of the Nave, the Crypt, and the Chapter House are
Norman; the Cloisters date from 1351-1412; the W. Facade and
the beautiful S. Porch were added in 1421-1437 the stately
;

*Tower (225 ft. high), with its beautiful tracery and pinnacles,
and the Lady Chapel belong to the second half of the 15th century.
The Cathedral suffered considerably in the Civil Wars, when the
Parliamentarians are said to have stabled their horses in the clois-
ters (1641). The whole edifice has undergone a careful restoration
under the superintendence of Sir G. G. Scott and Mr. Waller.
The ogee arch is one of the leading features of the later work
(14-15th cent.). The Cathedral is 420 ft. long and 144 ft. wide;
height of nave 68 ft., of choir 86 ft. The nave is open free; the E.
part, including the crypt, chapter-house, and cloisters, on payment
of 6d. the daily services are at 10.30 a. m. and 3p. m. The church
;

was raised to cathedral dignity in 1541, having previously been

included in the diocese of Worcester. It is now associated with
Bristol the two chapters receiving the conge d"elire alternately
,

(comp. p. 118). Comp. the handbook by Waller and the illustrated

account by Moore (Is.).
Interior. With the exception of the two westernmost hays, the arches
of the Nave are all Norman. The massive circular piers are unusually
lofty (30'/2 ft.), while the triforium (perhaps in consequence of this) is very
low (comp. p. xxxvn). The vaulting is E.E. (ca. 1240). Most of the stained
glass i3 modern, but there are two ancient windows (easily distinguish-
able) in the N. aisle. In this aisle is a good monument to Mrs. Morley
(d. 1784), by Flaxman; and there is a statue of Dr. Jenner (1749-1823), a
native of the county (comp. p. 122), at the W. end of the nave. The Dec.
tracery of the windows in the S. aisle dates from about 1318. In the Tran-—
septs, we meet, according to Mr. Willis, the earliest known approach
to the Perp. style, engrafted on the Norman frame-work. The vaulting
under the tower is apparently supported by curious flying arches, which
are perhaps unique. The reliquary in the N. transept is one of the few
pieces of E.E. work in the church (13th cent.).
The 'Choib, which begins one bay to the W. of the central tower, is
a magnificent example of pure Perp. character. The form of the tracery,
the elaborate vaulting, the panelled walls, the vast E. window, the rich
stalls, taken all together, produce an effect unsurpassed perhaps by any
other choir in England. Even the most unobservant visitor will see at
a glance how the choir proper forms a kind of Perp. 'cage' inside
the original Norman frame, the screen enclosing it being carried on all
sides up to the roof. Or it may be compared to a veil or film of
tracery thrown over the original walls. Mr. Willis believes that some of
the Norman columns were pared down to harmonise with the new design.
 172 Route 22. GLOUCESTER. From London
The date of this (ca. 1351) shows that the Perp. style was originated and
completed by the masons of Gloucester. In the ambulatory of the choir
the original Norman arches and piers are left undisguised. The E.
'Window of the choir, the largest in England (72 ft. by 38 ft.), is filled
with fine stained glass of the 14th century. The window is actually wider
than the side-walls that contain it. The somewhat unusual feature of a
window at the W. end of the choir is due to the fact that the latter is
much higher than the nave. The Stalls, with grotesque miserere carvings,
date from the 14th cent. the Reredos is modern. The beautiful lierne
;

vaulting of the choir should also be noticed. Between the Presbytery

and the X. ambulatory is the * Tomb of Edward II. (murdered at Berkeley
Castle in 1327), surmounted by a beautiful canopy. The possession of the
body of this unfortunate monarch proved a source of great wealth to
the cathedral, and the small pulpit, or desk, at which the priest stood
toreceive the contributions of the pious pilgrims , still stands at the
W. end of the ambulatory. From the X. E. angle of the ambulatory
projects Abbot Botelefs Chapel (ca. 1445), containing the '-Tomb of
Robert Garthose (d. 1135), Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the Con-
queror, with a curious effigy in Irish bog-oak. The corresponding
chapel (both chapels are polygonal) at the S. E. angle is dedicated to
St. Philip, and there are also chapels at the ends of the ambulatory ad-
joining the transepts. The one to the S., dedicated to St. Andrew, has
been restored and adorned with elaborate coloured decorations by Mr.
Gambier Parry (comp. p. 440). —"We now ascend to the Triforium of
the choir, reached by winding stairs in the W. turrets of the transepts,
which occupies the whole width of the choir-aisles, and affords access to
five small chapels corresponding to those below. The passage at its E.
end, just above the entrance to the Lady Chapel (see below), is known
as the 'Whispering Gallery', as a whisper uttered close to the wall at
one extremity is distinctly audible at the other.
The E. termination of the cathedral is formed by the "Lady Chapel
(ca. 1490), a fine Perp. structure with old stained glass (15th cent.) and good
lierne vaulting. It has been narrowed at the W. end so as not to obstruct
the light of the great E. window of the choir. There is a small chapel on
each side, containing the tombs of two bishops. Above the chapels are
small galleries, which may have been used by choristers.
The "Cloisters (1350-1410), which have no rival in England, are en-
tered by a door at the E. end of the X. aisle of the nave. The exquisite
fan-vaulting is the first known instance of its kind in the country. The
S. walk of the cloisters contained the Scriptorium of the monks, and
the X. walk their Lavatory. —From the E. walk of the cloisters we
enter the Chapter House, which is Xorman, except at the E. end,
where a large Perp. window has been inserted. A staircase ascends from
it to the "Cathedral Library, which contains a copy of Coverdale's Bible
(1535) and an Anglo-Saxon MS. of the 10th century.
The Crypt, entered from the S. Transept, is mainly of Norman work-
manship, though probably including relics of the Saxon abbey (p. 171),
and preserves the original plan of the E. end of the church.
The top of the Tower (225 ft. ; visitors seldom admitted) commands a
very extensive view. In the lower part of it hangs 'Great Peter , a bell 1

weighing nearly 3 tons. The chimes play at 1, 5, and 8 p.m.

The triennial musical festivals held alternately in the cathedrals of
Gloucester, Hereford, and Worcester, for the performance of oratorios
and other pieces of sacred music, are very numerously attended.
To the N. of the Cathedral lie some remains of the Monastic Buildings
of the Benedictine abbey in which the see took its rise (see p. 171).
These include the so-called 'Little Cloisters' (Perp.) and several E.E.
arches. Three or four ancient Gateways to the cathedral -precincts still
remain, the most interesting being the West Gate (12th cent.), in St. Mary's
Square. The modern cross opposite the latter is a memorial to Bishop
Hooper, who suffered martyrdom on this spot in 1555. The new Episcopal
Palace adjoins the monastic remains. The picturesque "Deanery, to the
N. of the W. front of the cathedral, carefully restored by Sir G. G. Scott,
 to Hereford. GLOUCESTER. 22. Route. 173

is the old Prior's Lodge. The E. end of the fine room now used as the
Dean's Library, and once probably the Prior's Chapel, is- pure Norman of
the 11th or early 12th cent.; and the curious 'slype' beneath it is of the
same period. The back part of the Deanery is of timber and dates from
the 12th or 13th cent. ; it contains a large room in which the Gloucester
Parliament of Eichard II. (1377-99) was held.
Gloucester contains about 12 other churches, of which the most
interesting are St. Mary le Crypt (Perp.), St. Nicholas (Perp.),
St. Mary de Lode, and St. Michael, from the tower of which the
curfew is still sounded every evening. Near the docks are the
scanty remains of Llanthony Priory originally an offshoot from the
,

priory of that name in Monmouthshire (p. 191). The New Inn

is an interesting brick and timber edifice erected about 1450 for
,

the accommodation of pilgrims to the shrine of Edward II. (p. 172).

— On the S.E. side of the town is a Public Park, with a chalybeate
spring. The Museum, in Brunswick St., contains Roman antiquities
found in the neighbourhood, the horns of the cow from which Dr.
Jenner (p. 171) procured his original stock of lymph, etc. (adm. on
Mon. & Wed., 11-1 and 2-4, 2d.; Sat. 11 to 6 or to dusk, Id.). In
Southgate St. is a timber-framed house once occupied by Robert
Raikes (1735-1811), a native of Gloucester and the founder of the
first Sunday School in England and there is another interesting
;

old house in a passage opposite the Fleece Inn in Westgate St. —

Numerous pleasant walks and drives may be taken in the environs.
From Gloucester to Bristol and to Bath, see R. 15; to Cheltenham
and Birmingham, see B. 23. Excursions may easily be made to the Forest
of Dean (p. 177) and the Valley of the Wye (p. 174).
Passengers for Ross and Hereford sometimes change carriages at
Gloucester and proceed by the South Wales Railway (G.W.R.). On
quitting the town we obtain a good retrospect of the cathedral, and
afterwards enjoy a succession of fine views of the valley of the
Severn. About 2 M. from Gloucester we pass (on the right) Highnam
Church, the interior of which was elaborately painted by the late
Mr. Gambier Parry (p. 172), whose house, Highnam Court, is seen
on the same side farther on. — At (12172 M.) Orange Court our
line diverges to the right from the line to South Wales (R. 24).
Farther on we pass Blaisdon Hill on the right, while 1 M. to the
left is Flaxley Abbey, the residence of Sir Roger de Coverley's
'Widow' (Mrs. Roevy). To the right, at (125 M.) Longhope, rises
May Hill (1000 ft.). 12772 M. Micheldean Road, the station for
(I72M.) Micheldean, a small town on the N. margin of the Forest of
Dean, with a church containing a fine oaken roof. The train now
enters Herefordshire, a pleasant cattle - grazing district, which,
according to Camden ('Britannia') 'would scorne to be considered
seconde to any other county throughout all England for fertilite of
soile', adding 'that for three W.W.W. — wheat, wool, water — it
yieldeth to no shire in England'. The traveller should not omit to
taste its perry and cider. To the left, in front of us, rises the Penyard.
132 M. Robs (*Royal, near the church, with a fine view, R. &A.
1 74 Route 22. THE WYE. From London
from 4s. Gd., B. 2-3s., D. 3s. Gd.-bs. ; Swan; King's Head), a pretty
littletown -with 3725 inhab., stands on a Mil overlooking the Wye,
which is here crossed by a picturesque bridge. The "Church, a hand-
some Dec. and Perp. building, with a lofty spire, conspicuous in all
views of the town, contains the tomb (in the chancel) of John Kyrle
(d. 1724), the 'Man of Ross' immortalized in Pope's well-known
poem, as well as some interesting monuments of the Redhall family.
Kyrle also planted the elms in the churchyard, and inside the
church are two offshoots from one of these (now dead) which ,

forced their way below the wall. The house of this eminent philan-
thropist on 500i. a year is in the market-place and is marked by his
bust. Opposite is the Town Hall, a quaint little building, supported
by pillars of red sandstone. A
lovely view of the Wye is obtained
from the Prospect Walk, adjoining the churchyard.

*Valley of the Wye. Ross is the starting-point for a visit to

the Lower Wye, the 'devious Vaga' of the poet, which presents
some of the finest river-scenery in the country. The river also flows
past Tintern Abbey, one of the most beautiful of England's ecclesias-
tical ruins, while Raglan, one of the most interesting of English
castles, is within easy reach of its banks. The Wye flows to the S.
from Ross, passing Monmouth, and joins the Severn near Chepstow
(p. 177), which is 27 M. distant as the crow flies, but about 40 M.
by the windings of the river.
The traveller has his choice of road, rail, and river; the last route
is preferable, and it may be combined with digressions on foot. A boat
with one boatman from Ross to Goodrich Castle costs 6s., to Symond's
Yat 10s., to Monmouth 15s., to Tintern 25s., to Chepstow 30s.; with two
men about one-half more. For boats apply at the Hope & Anchor Inn.
Boats may also be hired at (IOV2 M.) Monmouth. Perhaps the best plan
is to go by boat to Tintern and to walk thence to (5'/4 M.) Chepstow, as
the lower (tidal) part of the Wye, except at high tide, is disfigured by
ugly mudbanks. This walk also includes the Wyndcliff (p. 176), con-
sidered the finest single point in the valley. Those who have only one
day at their disposal should visit Symond's Yat and Tintern by rail, and
walk from the latter to Chepstow by the Wyndcliff. Monmouth is the
best stopping-place for those who devote two days to the trip. The rail-
way skirts the river nearly the whole way, and most of the stations are
close to its banks. The times and fares from Ross are as follows to :

(71/2 M.) Symond's Yat in 25 min. (fares Is. 6d., Is., Wj-id. or Vfcd.); to
(13 M.) Monmouth in 35 min. (2s. 10d., 2s. 2d., Is. id. or Is. Id.); to (22 M.)
Tinlern in 1 hr. (4s. Gd., 3s. 3d., 2s. kd. or Is. 10d.); to (271/2 M.) Chepstow
in l'/2-f 3 A hr. (6s., 4s. Id., 3s. or 2s. 31/W.). Like the Severn, the Wye ia
famed for its salmon ('there is salmons in both'), and the fishery brings in
a yearly rental of 20,000Z. The lower Wye forms the boundary between
Gloucestershire and Monmouthshire. The 'coracle', a primitive British
boat made of hides or canvas stretched over a frame of timber or wicker-
work, may still be seen on the Wye; and Gilpin ('The Wye Tour') tells
of an adventurous boatman who went from the Wye to Lundy (p. 159)
and back in one of these frail craft.
Leaving Ross by boat we obtain a good view of Wilton Castle
(12-16th cent.), on the right bank, and beyond it we pass under
Wilton Bridge, "wrn+.nn Oastle at one time belonged to Thomas
CUDUCESTIM
Statute Miles
 to Hereford. MONMOUTH. 22. Route. 175

Guy, who bequeathed it to the London hospital that bears his name.
About 4^2 M. farther on, on the same bank, are Ooodrieh Court,
a modern imitation of a mediaeval mansion, and *Goodrieh Castle,
a fine ruin dating partly from the 12th cent. (adm. 6<2.). It was at
Goodrich Castle (in 1793) that Wordsworth met the little heroine
of 'We are Seven'. Below Goodrich we pass under (1 M.) Kerne
Bridge (rail. stat. Inn)
; beyond which the river makes an im-
,

mense loop, and the scenery becomes more varied. To the E.

lies the Forest of Dean (p. 177). At the end of the loop near ,

(3^2 M.) Lydbrook (stat.; Queen's Head), we again pass under the
railway. Farther on, at (3 /4 M.) the *Coldwell Bocks, the Wye doubles
back upon itself, flowing towards the N. for 2*/2 M. and then
returning to within 600 yds. of its former channel. The tourist may
leave the boat to navigate this bend, while he ascends *Symond's
Yat (650 ft.), the hill at the neck of the loop , commanding an
exquisite view of rocks, and woods, and meadows, not unlike the
view from the Marienburg at Alf , on the Moselle. Close by is
Symond's Yat Station (Saracen's Head; Prospect House Rocklea ;

Temperance Inn). Boats may be hired at the Rocklea Inn for excur-
sions to Lady Park Cave (adm. 6d.), etc. Symond's Yat is separated
from the Great Doward by a defile named the 'Slaughter', and both
hills are crowned with ancient encampments. The river then flows
through the richly-wooded park of the Leys, and the valley becomes
more open. Monmouth is 101/2 M. from Ross in a direct line, and
about twice as far by the river. The road misses a great part of the
scenery.
Monmouth. (Beaufort Arms, high charges; King's Head; Bridge;
Angel), a town with 6115 inhab., which Gray calls 'the delight of
the eye and the very seat of pleasure', is beautifully situated on a
rising ground at the confluence of the Monnow and the Wye. The
old Castle, of which some remains still exist, was the birthplace
of Henry V. (1388-1422), the 'Prince Hal' of Shakespeare. The
room in which he was born is still pointed out. On the old bridge
crossing the Monnow is an interesting Gateway of the 13th cent.,
adjoining which is a small Norman chapel. The romancing chron-
icler Geoffrey of Monmouth (d. 1154) was born here, and a build-
ing (of much later date) is known as 'Geoffrey's Study'. The caps
for which Monmouth was formerly celebrated ('wearing leeks in
their Monmouth caps', Henry V., iv. 7), are no longer made here.
— There are two railway-stations at Monmouth May Hill, near
:

the bridge, and Monmouth Troy, to the S. of the town. Passengers

for Tintern and Chepstow sometimes have to change carriages at
the latter, the train going on to Raglan, Usk, and Pontypool Road
(see p. 176).
The "View from (21/2 M.) Kymin Hill (700 ft. above the river ; ascent
1 hr.), on the opposite bank of the Wye, ia very extensive and beautiful.
About 1 M. to the S.E. of this hill is the Bucistone, a rocking-stone, or
'Logan Stone' (*View). The silly exploit of Lieut. Goldsmith with the
176 Route 2i>. TINTERN. From London
famous 'Logan' near the Land's End (p. 147) was emulated here in 1885
by a party of excursionists; but the stone has since been replaced with
great cost ;md labour.
Monmouth is a good centre for numerous charming excursions and ,

the tourist is advised to interrupt his descent of the Wye long enough
at least for a visit to Raglan (Beaufort Arms), 7 M. to the S.W. ; railway
(G. W. R.) in '/< hr. ; fares Is. Gd., iOd., 8d. 4 B.aglan
Castle (adm. 6tf.),
now a picturesque ruin, was built in the 14-15th cent., and in 1646 wa3
gallantly defended against the Parliamentarians for 10 weeks by the
Marquis of Worcester, then in his 84th year. It was the last fortress to
hold out for the king. The second marquis, the son of the heroic royalist,
is distinguished for having invented and constructed the first steam-
engine, which was set up at Eaglan as a pumping engine. Lord Raglan,
the English commander in the Crimean War, took his title from this spot.
— Beyond Raglan the train goes on to (12 M.) TJsk (Three Salmons), an
ancient place with an old church and castle and a noted salmon-fishery,
and (18 M.) Ponlypool Road (p. 191). — Other interesting places near Mon-
mouth are (8 M.) Skenfrith Castle, (13 J /2 M.) Grosmont Castle, and (9i/2 M.)
White Castle.
Below Monmouth the valley of the Wye soon again contracts, and
is enclosed by steep wooded hills. The railway from Monmouth to
Chepstow skirts the river nearly the whole way. On the right bank,
2 M. from Monmouth lies Pennalt near which is Troy House,
, ,

a seat of the Duke of Beaufort. On the opposite bank are various

traces of the industries carried on in the Forest of Dean. At (4 M.)
Bigsweir we reach the highest point where the flow of the tide is
perceptible. About 2 M. to the E. is St. Briavels (p. 177). The
train next passes (3 ] /2 M.) Tintern Parva and Tintern Station, both
on the right, and after rounding another loop reaches (l J /2 M.) the
ivy-clad *Xintern Abbey, one of the most romantic ruins in Eng-
land, lying in a green meadow on the right bank of the "Wye
(adm. 6d.).
The abbey was founded by Cistercian monks in 1131, but the church,
the chief feature of the ruins, dates from the end of the following cen-
tury. The building, which is 228 ft. long, is a fine specimen of Dec.
Gothic. The roof and central tower are gone, but the rest of the struc-
ture is still well preserved. The window-tracery and other decorations
are very beautiful. The secular buildings are much smaller and less im-
portant than those of Fountains Abbey (p. 423). The village of Tintern
(Beaufort Arms, R. & A. is., sometimes over-crowded in summer; George;
Rose & Crown) is close to the abbey. The railway-station (see above) is
1 M. distant by road.

The river -scenery between Tintern and (7 M.) Chepstow is

very charming, though it loses much of its attraction at low tide
(see p. 174). We skirt the base of the wooded Wyndcliff (see
below), and farther on pass the fine rocks known as the "Twelve
Apostles (to the right). As we approach Chepstow we have a good
view of the castle.
As, however, the Wyndcliff is one of the points that no
visitor to the Wye should miss many will prefer to walk from
,

Tintern to (5^4 M.) Chepstow. We follow the road leading to

the S. from the Abbey to (274 M.) the 'Moss Cottage', and pass
through the cottage (fee Gd.) to a winding path which ascends, partly
in steps, to the top of the *Wyndcliff (900 ft.). At the top we turn
 to Hereford. CHEPSTOW. 22. Route. 177
to the right and descend a little to reach the
small out-look plat-
form, -which commands one of the finest views of river-scenery in
Europe, remarkable for the beauty and variety of its foliage. The
Severn is seen in the distance. In descending we do not return to
the Moss Cottage, but keep to the S. (left) at the point on the
summit -where we turned to the right, and regain the road at a point
73 M. nearer Chepstow. After i/2 M. more we turn to the left, and
then follow the main road to (2*/4 M.) Chepstow. On a Tuesday,
however, we may walk through *Piercefield Park, from near the
point where we regain the road to within 3/4 M. of Chepstow.
In summer a coach plies daily between Tintern Abbey and Chepstow
(fares 1». 6d.. return 2s. tid.), starting from the latter about 11 a.m.
Chepstow (*Beaufort Arms, R. & A. is. George), a town with
;

3600 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the W. bank of the "Wye,

which is here crossed by two bridges, 2'/2M. above its junction with
the Severn. It is a station on the S. Wales line from Gloucester to
Cardiff (see p. 192). *Chepstow Castle (adm. 6d.), on a height com-
manding the river, dates mainly from the 13-14th cent, and is an
extensive and interesting ruin, enclosing four courts. The third
court, known as the Chapel, seems to have been the original Nor-
man keep. Martin's Tower was for 20 years the prison of the regi-
cide of that name (d. 1680; buried in the church), and Jeremy
Taylor was also confined here in 1656. A good view of the castle
is obtained from the bridge. The Church of St. Mary near the ,

bridge, has a Norman nave and a fine Norman W. doorway. Some

parts of the town-walls and an old gateway are still in situ.
From Chepstow an excursion may be made to Oaldicot Castle (adm.
on previous written application), 6>/2 M. to the S.W., and to Caerwent, a
Roman camp ( Venta Silurum), Pfe M. to the N. of the castle. Freeman
describes Caldicot as surpassing in masonry and details every military
building he had seen, being fully equal to the best ecclesiastical work.
The Forest of Dean, the triangular district between the Wye and the
Severn, as far N. as a line drawn from Ross to Gloucester, was formerly
a royal domain like the New Forest (see p. 83) ; and the crown land still
amounts to about 25,000 acres. It is now in great part a busy mining dis-
trict, producing large quantities of coal and iron; but there are also exten-
sive tracts of picturesque woodland, which repay exploration. It is tra-
versed from N. to S. by the railway from Berkeley Road to Lydbrook;
and visitors may conveniently alight at Speech House Station and make
the Speech House Inn (well spoken of) their headquarters. The Speech
House contains the Verderers' Court (comp. p. 83). The trees of the
Forest are chieQy oaks and beeches. Among the pleasantest points are
the Holly Wood, close to the Speech House; the Sigh Beeches, 2 M. to the
N. W. ; the Spruce Drive and Danby Beeches 3>/2 M. to the S. E. ; the
,

Great Oak, 4 M. to the W. ; Pleasant Stile, Langham Place, the Ruardean

Hill (855 ft.), the highest point in the Forest, and St. Briavels (p. 176),
with a ruined castle and an interesting church. Visitors interested will
easily find an opportunity of inspecting a colliery or an iron-mine.

Beyond Ross the Hereford line passes several country-seats. Sta-

tions Fawley and Holme Lacy. The grounds of Holme Lacy House, a
large red mansion to the right, are open to the public in summer the ;

fine gardens on Tues. forenoon. The Wye is crossed several times.

Baedekek's Grat Britain. 2nd Edit. 12
178 Route 22. .HEREFORD. From Londoh

144 M. Hereford (*Oreen Dragon; City Arms, commercial;

Mitre, R. &A. 3s. 9d., these three in Broad St. Greyhound, Merton,
;

unpretending Railway Refreshment Rooms), an episcopal city with

;

19,825 inhab., pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Wye, is

of very ancient origin. It was at one time strongly fortified, and
remains of the old walls are still traceable. The see dates from 673,
when it was detached from that of Lichfield. The Castle, built to
hold the Welsh in check, and described by Leland as 'one of the
fayrest, largest, and strongest castles in England', has almost wholly
disappeared but its name survives in Castle Green, a pleasant pro-
;

menade on the river near the cathedral. In the centre of the Green,
which occupies the site of the outer ward of the Castle, is a Column
to the memory of Lord Nelson. Hereford carries on an extensive
trade in the agricultural produce of the district. The cattle and
sheep of Herefordshire are highly valued. Hereford was the birth-
place of David Garrick (1716-1779) and Nell Gwynne (d. 1687).
The *Cathedb.al (SS. Mary fy Ethelbert), the fourth church on
the same site, begun in 1079 on the destruction of its predecessor
by the Welsh (1055) and not finished till 1530, naturally shows
,

an interesting mixture of architectural styles. The nave, S. tran-

sept, choir, and piers of the tower are Norman ; the Lady Chapel
is E.E. (1226-46); the N. transept was rebuilt in 1250-88; the N.
porch was erected, about 1290. The central tower dates from the
14th, and the cloisters from the 15th century. The addition of the
outer N. porch (about 1530) completed the building as it now
stands. The W. facade was marred at the end of last century during
the 'renovation' undertaken by Wyatt (p. 99) in consequence of
the fall of the W. tower (1786), but the whole building was after-
wards restored with success by Sir G. G. Scott (1856-63).
The daily services of the cathedral are held at 10 a.m. and
4.30 p.m. Visitors are requested to inscribe their names in a book
and contribute Qd. to the building expenses. The usual entrance
is by the *North Porch, the outer portion of which is Perp. and the
inner E. E. (see above). The principal dimensions of the Cathe-
dral are: length 342 ft., breadth of nave and aisles 73 ft., length
of transepts 146 ft., height 64 ft.
Interior. The first thing to strike the visitor on entering the Nave
is the contrast presented by its severe and massive piers and arches to
the Dec. features of the exterior. The arches are adorned with chevron
mouldings. The clerestory and triforium are poor, dating only from the
restoration of last cent, (see above), and the unsuitable ornamentation
of the ceiling is also modern. The oak pulpit is Jacobean. Among the
monuments in this part of the church are those of Bishop Sooth (1516-36),
in the N. aisle, and Sir Richard Pembridge (d. 1375), in the S. aisle. Near
the latter is the Norman Font, of the 12th century. — The N.W. Transept,
perhaps the most beautiful part of the edifice, is a fine specimen of the
Karly Dec. style, with tall, narrow windows, arches of unusual form,
and elaborate diaper ornamentation. The modern stained-glass window in
memory of Archdeacon Freer, by Hardman, is very rich. The transept
contains numerous monuments, of which the most interesting are those of
Bishops Peter de Aquabhmca (1240-68), and "Thomas de Cantilupe (1276-82;
 to Hereford. HEREFORD. 22. Route. 1 79

the last Englishman canonized before the Reformation). The exterior of

this transept should also be examined. — The S.W. Transept is Norman,
with later alterations, and some authorities believe it contains part of the
oldest work in the building. On its W. side is a curious old fireplace,
an unusual feature in a church. Its £. aisle, now used as a Vestry, con-
tains a glass-case, with various interesting objects, including the 'Here-
ford Use' of about 1270. — Above the crossing rises the Great Central
Tower (165 ft.), the curious woik in the lantern of which resembles a
large cage with bars of stone. The 'Choir is separated from the nave
by an elaborate Metal Screen, executed by Skidmore from a design by
Sir G. G. Scott, and there are also good metal gates at the ends of the
choir-aisles. The main arches and triforium of the choir are Norman, the
clerestory E. E. The E. extremity was rebuilt in the present century.
The Episcopal Throne and the Stalls date from the 14th cent.; the Altar,
Sedilia, Reredos, Stained Glass Windows, and Tiled Pavement are modern.
To the left of the altar is an interesting old Bishop's Chair, dating from
the 11th century. Opening off the N. choir-aisle is Bishop Stanbury's
Chantry, a small chapel of the end of the 15th century. To the W. of
it is a door leading into the Cathedral Library ,which was formerly ac-
cessible only by the gangway across the large window in the N. W.
transept (see above). The library contains many volumes of great interest
and value, nearly all of which are chained to the shelves. In the S.
choir-aisle the famous "Hereford Mappa Mundi, a quaint map of the world
executed at the end of the 13th cent., is hung in its original frame,
protected by modern doors of oak. Both aisles contain the monuments
of several bishops. — The choir ends at the E. Transepts, which date in
their present form mainly from the 14th century. From the S.E. transept
a passage called the Vicars' Cloister, with a carved wooden roof, leads
to the Vicars' College (see below).
The easternmost arm of the cathedral is the Lady Chapel, a good
example of E.E., containing, among others, the fine tomb of Baron de
Grandison (d. 1358). On the S. side, behind a lofty stone screen, is the
Chantry of Bishop Audley (1492-1502), who, however, is buried in the
chantry he built at Salisbury after his translation to that see (p. 99). A
door at the N.W. angle of the Lady Chapel leads to the Crypt, said to
be the only one in England of later date than the 11th century. — The
Cloisters (15th cent.) are entered from the S. side of the nave. In the
E. walk is the doorway of the old Chapter House , of which little else
remains. The tower at the S.E. angle of the cloisters is traditionally
known as the 'Ladye Arbour'.
The College of Vicars Choral , to the S. of the cathedral , is an
interesting Perp. edifice (1476-1500). The Episcopal Palace,
between the cathedral and the river, contains a Norman hall. The
Cathedral Grammar School, at the E. end of the Cathedral, was
founded in the 14th century.
After the cathedral the most interesting building is probably
the so-named *Old House, in the square called the High Town, a
picturesque example of a half-timbered dwelling (16th or early
17th cent.), now used as abank. In St.Peter's Sq., alittle to theE.,
is St. Peters Church, containing 14 oaken stalls of the 15th century.
The Church of All Saints, in High St., to the W., contains similar
stalls of somewhat later date. Both churches have lofty spires.
From High Town (see above) Widemarsh St. leads to the N. to
for old
(!/3 M.) Coningsby Hospital, a neat little building (1614)
soldiers and servants, on the site of a commandery of the Knights
Templar, of which a Norman archway still remains. It is also
known as the Black Cross Hospital, from the ruins of a priory of
12*
 ;

180 Route 22. HEREFORD.

Black Friars in the garden. The most striking of these relics is
the *PreacMng Cross. —
Another -walk may he taken westwards from
High Town through High St. and Eign St., across the railway
hridge, and along Whitecross St. and Whitecross Road to (l!/ 4 M.)
the White Cross erected in the 14th cent, to commemorate the
,

cessation of the Black Death (1349). To the left, about 200 yds.
from the road, are the Kennels of the North Herefordshire Hunt.
— A good view is obtained from the Town Waterworks, 1 M. to
the S.W., reached from High St. by Broad St., King St., Nicholas
St., Barton St., and Broomy Hill. —
The Museum, in Broad St.,
contains local antiquities fossils,
and birds.
,
—
There are two
railway-stations at Hereford the Barrs Court Station of the G.W. and
:

L.N.W. railways, on the N.E. side of the town, and the Barton Station
of the Midland Railway, adjoining the above-mentioned hridge.
Hereford is a fairly good centre for excursions, of which those up
and down the Wye are the first to suggest themselves. In both directions
the pedestrian or cyclist will meet with much characteristic English river-
scenery, and numerous small but comfortable inns make it a comparatively
easy matter to extend the walk in the one direction to Ross, Monmouth,
or Chepstow (comp. p. 174 et seq.), or in the other to Hay, Builth, or
Rhayader (comp. p. 203). —
Among other places of interest within the
compass of a day's excursion are Leominster (see below); Malvern (p. 189)
the Black Mis. (p. 191); Dinedor Hill, a Roman camp 3 M. to the S. (view);
Holme Lacy, 4 M. to the S. E. (p. 177); Kilpeck Church, 71/2 M. to the S.W.,
with grotesque Norman sculptures (see p. 1M0) St. EthelberCs Camp, 6 M. to
;

the E.; and Tewkesbury (p. 182).

Feom Hereford to Shrewsbury, 51 M., railway in H/t&h hrs. (10«. &d.,
Is. bd., 5s. bd. or 4s. 3d.). — The train traverses rich pasture-land, and
penetrates DinmoreHill, 'a specula to see all the country about' (Leland), by
a tunnel % M. long. —The first station of importance is (13 M.) Leominster,
pronounced Lemster (Royal Oak; Talbot; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), an ancient
town with 6000 inhab., deriving its name from a priory founded here in
the 7th century. The Church of SS. Peter and Paul, one of the finest
parish-churches in the country, contains features of all the principal
architectural styles from Norman to Perpendicular. It is adjoined on the
N. by an older Norman church. Other interesting buildings are Sutton
House and the Clarke Alms Houses (18th cent.). [From Leominster a
branch-line diverges on the left to New Radnor.] — From (18 M.) Wooff-
erlon (Refreshmt. Rooms) a branch-line runs to the E. to Tenbury, Stour-
bridge, and Birmingham. To the right rises Titlerstone Clee (1780 ft.).
23 M. Ludlow (Feathers; Angel), a very interesting town with 5100 in-
hab. and many fine old wooden houses, is prettily situated at the con-
lluence of the Teme and the Corve. It was formerly the seat of the Lords
President of Wales and retains many signs of its former importance. Their
"Castle, which is still magnificent in decay (adm. 6d.), was built in the
12th cent, and played an important role in many historical events. Milton
here wrote his Gomus\ to celebrate the appointment of the Earl of Bridge-
i

water to the office of Lord Marcher; and a great part of Butler's i Hudi-
bras'' was also written within its walls. The hall in which 'Comus' was
'presented' is still in situ, and there are remains of a circular Norman
chapel. The "Collegiate Church of St. Lawrence, the stately Perp. tower
of which is conspicuous from the railway (to the left), contains good
stained glass and many interesting monuments. Near the castle is a Mu-
seum, with an extensive collection of Silurian fossils. — Pleasant ex-
cursions may be made from Ludlow to the Vignals (4 M. ; view), Bringe-
wood Chase (3)1.; view), Hay Wood, Dovmton Castle, Wigmore Castle,
Staunton Lacey (with a pre-Norman church; 2'/2 M. to the N.), etc.
31 M. Craven Arms (Craven Arms; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is the
 CHELTENHAM. 23. Route. 181

junction for the Central Wales Railway to Llandrindod , Swansea, Car-

marthen, and Pembroke. To the N. E. (right) another branch runs to
(18 M.) Much Wenlock (Gaskell Arms; Raven), a small town with the fine
ruins of a Oluniac * Priory, which was founded in 1080 and exhibits an
interesting mixture of Norman and Gothic architecture. A third branch
runs to the left to Bishop's Castle. About 1 M. to the S. of Craven Arms
is *Btokesay Castle (13th cent.), surrounded by a moat, one of the finest
castellatedmansions in England.
Farther on, the line runs parallel with Watting Street. To the right
are the Stretton Hills (1675 ft.). Beyond (38 M.) Church Stretton (Church
Stretton Hotel) we pass three unimportant stations and reach —
51 M. Shrewsbury, see p. 262.
From Hereford to Malvern and Worcester and to Newport and Cardiff,
see R. 24; to Brecon and Swansea, see R. 26.

23. From Bristol to Gloucester, Cheltenham, Wor-

cester, Birmingham, and Derby.
Midland Railway (no second class) to (37'/2 M.) Gloucester in 3/«-l'A hr.
(fares 5s., 3s. i'hd.); to (431/2 M.) Cheltenham in 1 hr. 5 min.-2 hrs. (fares
5*. I0d., 3s. Id.); to (651/2 M.) Worcester in 13/4-3 hrs. (fares 8*. 8d., 6s. Sd.);
to (90'/2 M.) Birmingham in 21/4-4V2 hrs. (fares 12s. id., 7s. Sd.); to
(130 M.) Derby in 3>/4-43/4 hrs. (fares 18s., 10s. id.). — Travellers by this
line may also book through to Manchester (5 l /4-6'/2 hrs. ; 24s. id., 13s. Id.),
Liverpool (5»/4-7 hrs.; 24s. Id., 13s. 9<Z.), Edinburgh (1H/4 hrs.; 56s., 30s.
5i/2<*.), and Glasgow (ll 3
Ahrs.; 56s. 6d., 30s. 51/21*.).
From Bristol to (3772 M.) Gloucester, see p. 121. Beyond Glou-
cester, the cathedral tower of which is well seen to the left, we
pass Churchdown and soon reach —
4372 M. Cheltenham. — "Plough, High St., an old and
Hotels.
very comfortable house, with the largest stable-yard in England, R. & A.
4s., D. 4*.; Queen's, in the Promenade; Royal; Fleece, commercial;
Bellevue, Lansdown, private hotels; Walter's Temperance.
Restaurants. George's, High St. ; Lock's, Clarence St. ; Baylet/s, High
St.; Railway Refreshmt. Rooms.
Cabs. For 1 pers. Is. per mile, 2 pers. Is. 6d., 3 or more pers. 2s.;
for each addit. >/2 M. 6d. — Omnibuses ply from the railway - stations
into the town, and the hotels send omnibuses to meet the principal trains.
Coach daily in summer to (16 M.) Broadway (p. 187).
Railway Stations. Great Western Station, St. James Sq., for London
3
(3V2-4 /4 hrs. ; fares 20s., 15s., 10s. Id.), Oxford, etc.; Midland Railway Sta-
tion, Queen's Road, for Gloucester, Bristol, Birmingham, and the North.
Theatre Royal, Montpellier St. — Assembly Rooms, High St., for
balls, concerts, etc. Visitors apply to the Committee. —Music. The Town
Band performs in the morning and afternoon in the Montpellier Gardens
and other parts of the town.
Cheltenham, a frequented and well-built inland watering-place
with about 50,000 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the Chelt, in a
fertile plain, bounded on the S. E. by the Cotswold Hills. Its
springs were discovered at the beginning of last cent., but it was
not till after the visit of George ill. in 1788 that it became a
fashionable resort. The waters are chalybeate and saline, and are
considered efficacious for dyspepsia and affections of the liver. The
Pump Boom is in the Pittville Gardens, a large recreation-ground
to the N. of the High St., and there is also a spa in the Montpellier
Gardens. Among the residents are numerous retired civil servants
and officers, while in winter the town is crowded with fox-hunters.
182 Route l'.J. TEWKESBURY. From Bristol

Anglo-Indians form so large a part of its society, that the town has
been called 'Asia Minor'. The Cricket Week, held in August in the
College Grounds, is a source of attraction to many visitors. Chelten-
ham is a renowned educational centre, and its College, a large build-
ing in the Bath Road, ranks high among the public schools of Eng-
land (600-700 pupils). It possesses a Museum, to which visitors
are admitted on application. There is also a Ladies' College, at-
tended by upwards of 500 pupils.
The principal business-street of the town is the High Street,
nearly 2 M. long, which intersects it from E. to W. The Prome-
nade, a shady avenue leading to the S. from the High St., con-
tains a large Winter Garden, and is adjoined by the Montpellier
Gardens, with the Montpellier Rotunda, used in winter for balls and
concerts. —The parish-church of St. Mary was erected in the 14th
cent and has been restored. It possesses a fine rose-window and
contains a brass of the Greville family. In the churchyard is a
mutilated cross of the 13th century. —
Among modern buildings
may be mentioned the Public Library and School of Art, near the
G. W. R. station, and the Grammar School, in the High Street.
The environs of Cheltenham, including the Cotswold Bills, afford many
pleasant excursions. Among the places most visited are Leckhamplon Hill
(980 ft.; view) , 2 M. to the S. ; Charlton Kings, ii/2 M. to the E. ; South-
am de la Bere, a manor-house of the 15th cent., 2Vz M. to the N. E.,
on the road to Evesham; Winchcombe (fine church) and "Sudeley Castle
(with the grave of Katherine Parr), 4'/2 M. beyond Southam; Andovers-
ford (Frog Mill Inn) 7 M. to the E., on the line to Chipping Norton
,

(p. 187); the Seven Springs, another claimant to he the source of the
Thames (see p. 174), 3>/2 to the S. ; and the Soman Villa at Chedworth,
9 M. to the S. E. —Railway-excursions may be made to Berkeley Castle
(p. 122), Tewkesbury (see below), Gloucester (p. 170), Evesham (p. 187), and
Worcester (p. 183).
Beyond Cheltenham the train next reaches (47 M.) Cleeve, the
station for Bishop's Cleeve, with a large church, 1 M. to the N. E.
— 51 M. Ashchurch the junction of a line to (2 M.) Tewkesbury
is
(see below) and (13 M.) Malvern (p. 189), and of another to Eves-
ham (p. 187) and Stratford-on-Avon (see p. 245).
Tewkesbury (Swan; Bell), the Btocessa of the Romans and Theocs
byrig of the Saxons, a small and ancient town with 5000 inhab., at the
confluence of the Severn and Avon, is frequently visited for the sake of
its noble abbey-church. It is no longer famous for its mustard as in the
days when Falstaff averred that Poins's wit was 'as thick as Tewkesbury
mustard' (Henry IV., Part II. 11. 4). Tewkesbury Abbey was founded in
715, and its "Church, dating mainly from the early part of the 12th cent.,
ranks among the most important Norman edifices in the country. It has
been restored and is still used. [Visitors are admitted from 9.30 a. m.
till dusk or 6.30 p.m., and are expected to contribute 6d. towards the
Restoration Fund; adm. to the roof, triforium, or tower Gd. extra for
1 pers., 3d. each for a party.] The hexagonal choir, with its radiating
chapels, is in the Dec. style; and many of the windows, chantries,
vaults, and other details are either Dec. or Perpendicular. The chief
features of the exterior are the massive Norman Tower (132 ft. high),
an E. E. chapel on the E. side of the N. transept, the chevet of chapels
at the E. end, and the curious recessed Porch and Window of the W.
facade, the composition of which is probably unique. The interior, both
of'nave and choir, is very impressive, The vaulting of the nave has
 to Derby. WORCESTER. 23. Route. 183
been coloured by Mr. Gambier Parry (p. 440), who has been much more
successful than the decorators of the ceiling of the choir. The handsome
tiled flooring of the choir is copied from anciemt patterns found during
the restoration. Among the most important of the numerous interesting
monuments are the "Despenser Tomb (14th cent.), on the N. side of the
choir; the Founder's Chapel, at the E. end of the choir, erected over the
tomb of Robert Fitz-Hamon (d. 1107), the builder of the original Norman
church; the brass below the central tower, marking the supposed grave
of Prince Edward of Wales, killed at the battle of Tewkesbury (see be-
low) ; the Warwick Chapel, on the N. side of the choir, erected by Isabel
*
Despenser about 1425; and the tombs of numerous Abbots. The stained
glass in the choir dates mainly from the 14th century. The remains of
the secular buildings are, with the exception of the Gate Bouse, com-
paratively uninteresting. The town contains numerous timber houses of
the 16- 17th centuries. —
The so-called 'Bloody Meadow', 1/2 M. to the
S. of the town, was the scene of the battle of Tewkesbury in 1471, at
which the Yorkists gained a decisive victory (see above).
Tewkesbury is the nearest railway-station to Deerhurst, situated on
the Severn (a pleasant trip by boat), 2 /2 M. to the S., and possessing a
l

fine pre-Norman "Church. The tower is an excellent specimen of pre-Nor-

man architecture. An interesting pre-Norman * Chapel has also been
brought to light at an old farm-house, near the church. A stone found
here, bearing the date 1056 (now in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford;
p. 231) makes either the church or chapel (for authorities differ as to
which it belonged to) the earliest dated ecclesiastical building in England.
The train to "Worcester n«<v enters Worcestershire, passes (53 M.)
Bredon (with a fine Dec. church) and (55*/2 M.) Eckington, and
crosses the Avon close to (56 M.) Defford. Beyond (60 M.) Wad-
borough we cross the railway from Worcester to Evesham.

65Y2 M. Worcester. — Hotels. Stab (PI. a; C,3), Foregate St., near the
Foregate station, R. & A. 6s.; Beix (PI. b).Unicorn (PI. c), Ceown, all in
Broad St. (PI. C,4); Hop Market (PI. d; C,3), Foregate St.; Great Western
(PI. h; D, 3), close to the joint railway-station.
Cabs. For l-2pers., per drive is., 3 pers. Is. 6(2., 4 pers. 2*.; luggage
up to 561b a. free, beyond 56lbs. 1*. per cwt. —
Tramways traverse some
of the streets. —
In summer a small Steamer plies to Holt and other places
on the Severn.
Railway Stations. 1. Joint Station (PI. D, 3) of the Great WesternRail-
way and the Midland Railway, at Shrub Hill, 1/2 M. to the E. of the centre
of the city; 2, 3. Foregate Street Station (PI. C, 3) and Henaick (PI. A, 4),
for the G. W. R. trains to Hereford and South Wales.
Race-Course (PI. A, 2, 3), by the river; races in March, July, and Nov.
Worcester, an episcopal city with 42,000 inhab., is pleasantly
situated on a height on the left hank of the Severn in a fertile ,

and picturesque district. Its principal industrial products are gloves,

of which 500, 000 pairs are made annually, porcelain, boots and shoes,
vinegar, and Worcester sauce. Its hop-market is very important.
Worcester is a place of great antiquity. It seems to have been al-
ready a British town of some importance (Caer Ouorangon?) when the
Romans captured it and made it one of their military stations. The
Saxons called it Wigorna Ceaster, of which the present name is a soft-
ened form. At first the town was included in the bishopric of Lichfield,
but it was elevated to the position of an independent see in 680. The
castle was built in the 11th cent., and was occupied by several of
the earlier English sovereigns. Worcester was frequently besieged and
burned during the wars of the middle ages, and indeed no other English
town of equal importance has had a more checquered history. The last
and most celebrated siege was that of 1651, when Charles II. and his
Scottish troops were defeated by Cromwell before the town after a very
 ;

184 Route l>3. WORCESTER. From Bristol

severe struggle, and the young prince narrowly escaped capture. The city
motto, 'Civitas in Bello in Pace Fidelis', refers to this period of loyalty.
A good general view of Worcester and its Cathedral is obtained
from the Bridge over the Severn (PI. B, 4). The slender spire, which
is so prominent on the E. hank, belongs to the Church of St. An-
drew (PI. C, 4), and was erected in the middle of last century.
The *Cathedeal (PI. C, 5), dedicated to Christ and the Blessed
Virgin Mary, lies on the river, at the S.end of the main thorough-
fare formed by Foregate St., the Cross, and High St. In plan it is
a double cross with very short transepts, and with a chapter-house
and spacious cloisters on the S. side. Its length is 450 ft; its
width in the nave 78 ft. and across the W. transepts 126 ft.
,

and its height 60-67 ft. In general characteristics it is E. E.

and Dec, but it includes specimens of all styles from the Nor-
man down to the latest Perpendicular. The present church oc-
cupies the site of one built by St. Wulfstan in the 11th cent.,
of which the crypt, the two W. bays of the nave the interior of
,

the chapter-house and some portions of the walls now alone

,

remain. The oldest parts of the church as re-erected are the choir
and lady-chapel which date from the first quarter of the 13th
,

century. The N. side of the nave belongs to the Dec, and the S.
side to the early Perp. period but they are very similar in general
;

appearance. The central tower, 196 ft. high, was completed in

1374, and shows traces of the transition from Dec. to Perpendicular.
The whole edifice was restored under the superintendence of Sir
G. 0. Scott, and this restoration, though urgently needed and carried
out with great taste, has somewhat impaired the interest of the ex-
terior by depriving it of its air of venerable antiquity. Visitors are
admitted from 9 to 6 in summer, and from 9.30 to 5 in winter 6d. ;

is charged for adm. to the choir and crypt, and Qd. extra for the as-
cent of the tower (week-day services at 10.15 a.m. and 4.15 p.m.}.
The most famous bishops of Worcester were Wulfstan II. (1062-95),
Hugh Latimer (1535-39), and Stillingfleet (1689-99 see p. 185).
;

The usual entrance to the Cathedral is by the N. Porch (1386).

The imposing "Interior has, in its magnificent groined roof, extend-
ing in an unbroken line for 420 ft. , a feature that perhaps no other
English cathedral can match. The modern decoration has been carried
out with great skill and judgment, the tiled flooring being particularly
worthy of notice. The
stained glass is modern. With the exception of its
W. end, the Nave in its present form is later than the choir, and there
are differences of detail between its N. and S. sides (see above), the ad-
vantage lying with the older work on the N. The unusual arrangement
of the triforium and clerestory of the two Transitional Norman bays at
the W. end should be noticed. The arched recesses in the wall of the
S. aisle (resembling those at Winchester) prove that the lower part of it
is a relic of the Norman cathedral. The W. end of the nave was com-
pletely altered, and the W. entrance was blocked up towards the close of
the 14th century. At the W. end of the S. aisle is a mural monument to
Bishop Gavden (d. 1662), believed to he the real author of the t Eikon
Basilike\ ascribed to Charles I. The handsome modern Pulpit is the
gift of the late Lord Dudley, who bore a great part of the expense of
the restoration.
WmtESTmi CATUE1IMML
 to Derby. WORCESTER. 23. Route. 185
The W. Transepts contain a good deal of Norman masonry, partly
concealed by later work, of which the Perp. veil
of tracery in the S.
arm is noteworthy. The difference between the Norman and later masonry
is easily recognised. In the E. wall of the N. arm is a Norman arch,
below which has been placed the monument of Bishop Bough (d. 1743),
a master-piece of Roubiliac. Bishop Stillingfleel (d. 1699) is also buried
here. The 8. arm is almost entirely filled by the Organ,
another gift of
the Earl of Dudley.
The "Choir is separated from the nave by one of these elaborate
screens which may be looked upon as the signs -manual of Sir G.
G.
Scott s restorations; and there are also metal gates at the ends of the
aisles. The choir dates from the purest E. E. period, and impresses by
its richness and uniformity. As at Salisbury (p. 99), slender shafts of
Purbeck marble play an important part in the general design. The
carving of the bosses and capitals is very delicate, and the modern paint-
ing of the groined roof is effective. The 'Stalls date from 1379, and have
been restored and supplemented by modern work; the misereres are very
quaint. The Episcopal Throne and the Reredos are modern; the Pulpit
dates from 1504. Near the centre of the choir is the Monument of King
John (d. 1216), who died at Newark (p. 361) and was buried here at his
own request; the monument consists of a sarcophagus -tomb of the
16th cent., surmounted by an effigy of the 13th, said to be the earliest
existing effigy of an English monarch. To the right of the altar is the
Chantry of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII., who died at Lud-
low Castle (p. 180) in 1502 and was interred here the chantry is a good
;

specimen of the Tudor style. Adjacent are the monuments of Lord Dudley
(d. 1896) and Lord Lyttelton (d. 1876). The S. aisle of the choir is adjoined
by an E. E. chapel.
Beyond the sanctuary, forming the E. termination of the Cathedral, is
the Ladt Chapel, erected before the choir, which was built to har-
monize with it in structural and ornamental treatment. On the 8. wall
is a tablet to the memory of Izaak Walton's wife, a sister of Bishop Ken,
with a quaint epitaph, doubtless written by her husband; and near it is
a fine effigy of the 14th century. The episcopal effigies in front of the
altar are those of Bishops de Blois (d. 1236) and de Gantilupe (d. 1266).
The sculptured Arcade running round the Lady Chapel and the E. Tkan-
septs is of considerable interest. In the N.E. Transept is the Monument of
Mrs. Bigby (d. 1820), by Ghantrey.
The "Crypt, entered from the S.W. Transept, resembles that of Glou-
cester in preserving the apsidal termination of the earlier Norman church.
It differs, however, from that and other Norman crypts in the lightness
and elegance of its supporting columns. The groined roof is also fine.
The Perp. Cloisters, entered from the S. aisle of the nave, have
been carefully restored. In the N. walk of the Cloisters is a tombstone
bearing the single word 'Miserrimus'. The somewhat prosaic explanation
is that it marks the grave of a Minor Canon, who was deprived of his
preferments on refusing to take the oath of supremacy on the accession of
William III. Wordsworth's well-known sonnet takes a more romantic view.
From the E. side of the Cloisters we enter the decagonal 'Chapter
House, one of the earliest examples of vaulting borne by a single column
in the centre. The masonry of the walls is mainly Norman, while the
windows are of later insertion.
From the top of the Tower (adm. 6<J.), which contains a set of
chimes, a fine view, extending to the Malvern Hills, is enjoyed.
The Chapter Library, now housed in the triforium of the S. aisle
of the nave, contains about 4000 printed vols, and some interesting MSS.
— Triennial Musical Festivals, see p. 172.
Among the remains of the Benedictine Priory, with which the
Cathedral was originally connected the most important is the
,

*Befectory, to the S. of the Cloisters, a fine hall of the 14th cent.,

120 ft. long, with a Norman crypt below. It is used for the Cathe-
 ;

186 Route -23. "WORCESTER. From Bristol

dral Grammar School, and has lately been restored. The present
coiling is an imitation of the original. To the W. of the Cloisters
are some fragments of the Dormitory, and to the E., on the N. side
of College Green, are the ruins of the Questen Hall (1320). The —
principal entrance to the College Green is the so-called Edgars
Tower or St. Mary's Gate at the S. E. angle of the Cathedral
,

it perhaps dates from about 1500. To the S. of the College Green

stood "Worcester Castle, of which no trace has been left. *View of
the Severn, with its two bridges, and of the suburbs on the left
bank, from the S.W. side of the close. The Malvern Hills form
the background.
A little to the N.W. of the Cathedra], on the river, is the old
Episcopal Palace, now the Deanery (PI. C, 4). The present residence
of the Bishop is Hartlebury Castle, 11 M. to the N. of "Worcester.
A little to the S. of the Cathedral, in Diglis St., are the Royal
Poucelatn Wobks (PL C, 5), established in 1751, which cover five
acres of ground and employ over 600 hands (visitors admitted from
10 a.m. till dusk; 6<L). The various processes of manufacture and
the collertion of old "Worcester are very interesting. Worcester
china is noted for its hard enamel finish, and a high pitch of artistic
excellence has been attained both in form and decoration.
Following the High Street, which leads to the N. from the
neighbourhood of the Cathedral, we soon reach, on the left, the
Guildhall (PI. C, 4; open 10-6 in summer, 10-4 in winter), a sub-
stantial building in the Queen Anne style. It is adorned with statues
of various monarchs and with allegorical figures of Justice, Plenty,
Chastisement, Peace, and Industry. The hall, 110 ft. long, contains
two brass cannon, one of which was used at the battle of Worcester.
Opposite the Guildhall is the Market House.
The High Street is prolonged towards the N. by the Cross, a
street so named from the old City Cross, long since removed, and
this in turn is prolonged by Foregate Street, the principal street in
the town. To the right is the Hop Market (PI. C, 3), which presents
a busy scene in the hop-season. The Public Library cf Museum
(PI. C, 3), also in Foregate Street, contains a good collection of nat-
ural history specimens (open daily, 10-8).
Among the other churches of Worcester the most noteworthy are
St. Stephens (beyond PI. B, 1), with a good interior, and Holy Trinity
(PI. D, 3), near the railway-station, with (he fine timber-roof (14th cent.)
from the Guesten Hall (see above). —
The Cominandery (PI. C, 4), in Sid-
bury, originally a hospital, but now a college for the blind, is a fine
specimen of domestic architecture of the time of Henry VIII. The—
house from which Charles II. escaped by the hack-door, as his enemies
were entering at the front (comp. p. 182), is pointed out, opposite the
Corn Market (PI. C, 4). —
A visit may also be paid to Lea & Perrins'
Manufactory of 'Worcester Sauce", to the Vinegar Works of Hill, Evans,
<£• Co. (with a cask holding 114,600 gallons), find to the Glove Manufac-
tories of Messrs. Dent and Fownes Brothers.
The immediate environs of Worcester offer little to interest the tourist
but excursions may be mad'! to D/oitw'ch (p. 187), Evesham (p. 18 7)
 ;

to Derby. DBOITWICH. 53. Route. 1 87

Malvern (p. 189), Warwick (p.241), and Stratford (p. 245).—From Worcester
to Hereford, see R. 24.
From Worcester to Oxford, 57 M., G. W. R. in 2-31/2 hrs. (12s. 6<f.,
9s. 6<J., 5s. lOd. or 4s. 9d.).—8 M. Pcnhore (Coventry Arms; ThTee Tuns),
with a handsome abbey-church, with a square tower of the 14th cent.
HV2 M. Fladbury, also with a fine church (Perp.). We then cross the Avon.
14 M. Evesham (Grown; Northwich Arms; Railway), a small town
with 5115 inhab., in a fertile valley, celebrated for its orchards and
market-gardens. The little town is historically noteworthy as the scene
of the battle in which Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., defeated
and slew Simon de Montfort in 1265. Of Evesham Abbey, founded in the
8th cent., nothing now remains except the fine "Bell Tower (1533) and
a Norman Gateway, the former is visible from the train, above the
trees to the left, as we enter the station. Simon de Montfort was buried
in the abbey. Within the churchyard are the churches of St. Lawrence
(fine fan -vaulting) and All Saints, both erected by the monks of the
abbey. —
About 2 M. to the S. E. of Evesham is the village of Wickham-
ford, the church of which contains the flat tomb (near the altar) of Pene-
lope Washington (d. 1697), bearing the Washington coat-of-arms. Broadway
(Lyngon Arms), a quaint little place 3 M. farther on in the same direction,
with interesting Elizabethan houses, is a favourite resort of American
artists and authors. Coaches daily in summer to (5 M.) Evesham (Is.) and
(16 M.) Cheltenham (p. 181; a beautiful drive over the lotswolds; 5s.).
19 M. Honeybourne is the junction of a line to Stratford-on-Avon (p. 245)
and Warwick (p. 241). — 25 M. Campden, with the ruins of a large man-
sion of the 17th cent., which was burned down to prevent its falling
into the hands of the Parliamentarians. Near the town is Campden
House, belonging to the Earl of Gainsborough. — The small hospital of
(29 M.) Moreton-in-the - Marsh (White Hart) claims to possess the chair
used by Charles I. at his trial. Near (34 M.) Adlesirop we pass, on the
right, Daylesford House, once the seat of Warren Hastings, who died here
in 1818 and is buried in the churchyard. The mansion-house at Adlestrop,
a fine Tudor edifice, belongs to Lord Leigh.
36 M. Chipping Norton Junction, the station for a branch to (4 M.)
Chipping Norton (White Hart; Blue Boar), a small town with woollen
cloth and glove factories and a fine Perp. church. The first part of the
name is said to he derived from the Saxon word 'ceapian', to bargain
(comp. 'K6i>ing' in Sweden). About 2 M. to the N. are the Rollright
Stones, the scanty remains of a stone circle like Stonehenge. The branch
goes on to Banbury (p. 240). — From the same junction another line
leads to the W. to Cheltenham and Gloucester (see p. 182). From (39 M.)
Shipton, (40 M.) Ascott-under-Wychwood, or (44 M.) Charlbury, with a finely-
situated church, a visit may be paid to Wychwood Forest, a fine woodland
district.
Beyond Charlbury to the left, lies Blenheim Park, but little
, is seen
of it owing to the numerous cuttings through which the train here passes.
Near Handborough the train crosses the Evenlode, a tributary of
(50 M.)
the Isis, the course of which has been followed from Moreton. From
(54'/2 M.) Yarnton Junction a branch-line runs to Witney and Fairford
(Bull); the latter contains a fine church, with exquisite stained- glass
'Windows, ascribed (wrongly) to Albrecht Diirer. —
We now join the
main G. W. line, and soon reach (57 M.) Oxford (p. 223).
On leaving Worcester the train threads a tunnel and passes
(67!/2 M.) Fernhill Heath. To the right is Westwood House, the
seat of Loid Hampton. —
71 M. Droitwich (Royal Brine Baths
Hotel; Raven, well spoken of; George), a town with 4000 inhab.,
famous for Its brine springs, which have their source 170 ft. below
the surface of the earth and contain 35-40 per cent of pure salt. The
springs were known to the Romans, and are now again frequented
by bathers while many thousand tons of salt are also produced
,
188 Route 23. TAMWORTH.
for uommcrci.il use. Droitwich is the junction of the G. W. R. line
to Kidderminster (p. 260) and Wolverhampton (p. 260). 75 M. —
Stoke Works, with rock-salt deposits and copious brine-springs.
Beyond (78 M.) Bromsgrove (Golden Cross), a nail-making town,
with 15,000 inhab. and quaint gabled houses, the train ascends
one of the steepest railway-inclines in England (1 37). —
8I72M.
:

Barnt Green is the junction of a line to Alcester, Redditch (famous

for needles), Broom (for Stratford), and Evesham (p. 187).
93 M. Birmingham (New St. Station; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), see
p. 254.
The first stations beyond Birmingham are Saltley, Castle Brom-
wich, and (96 M.) Water Orton, the junction of a line to Walsall
and Wolverhampton (see p. 260). From (101 M.) Whitacre a line
runs to the right to Nuneaton and Leicester (p. 352).
lllVz M. Tamworth (Castle; Peel Arms), a town with 5000
inhab., on the Tame, lies partly in Staffordshire and partly in War-
wickshire. The old Castle, the relics of which are scanty, was erected
by Robert Marmion, a celebrated Norman baron whose name and
,

description were appropriated by Scott for his well-known hero.

The Church, also an ancient building, contains effigies of the
Marmion family and a monument to Sir Robert Peel. The curious
double winding staircase in the tower also deserves notice. In the
market-place is a bronze statue, by Noble, of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850),
who represented Tamworth in parliament. Drayton Manor, the fam-
ily-seat of the Peels, lies 2 M. to the S. and the great minister is in-
terred in the church of the village of Drayton Bassett. —
Tamworth
is also a, station on the Trent Valley Line of the L. N. W. R. (p. 349).
12472 M. Burton-on-Trent (Queen; White Hart; Bowling Green;
George), famous for its breweries of pale ale and other kinds of beer,
is situated on the left bank of the Trent here crossed by a long
,

bridge. Pop. (1881) 39,285. It is a place of ancient origin, and

the churchyard contains some relics of an Abbey founded at the
beginning of the 11th century. The lions of the place are the huge
breweries of Bass fy Co. and Allsopp fy Co. The former covers
130 acres of ground, employs 2000 men, brews annually 800,000
barrels of ale and stout, uses 60,000 railway trucks, and pays
300,000t. a year for malt tax and excise duty. Permission to visit
either of these may be obtained on application at the office, where
the traveller inscribes his name in a book kept for the purpose
(gratuity of Is., more for a party, to the attendant).
From Burton branch-lines diverge on the left to Uttoxeter (p. 346), the
Potteries (p. 345). and Crewe (p. 345), and on the right to Ashby-de-la-
Zouche (p. 354), Leicester (p. 352), etc.
Near (129 M.) Repton-Willington we cross the Dove. Repton,
1 M. to the E., possesses a well-known grammar-school, established
in an old priory. Below the chancel of St. Wystan is a pre-Norman
*Crypt, approached by two staircases of similar date.
On the Dove, 4 1 /* M higher up, lies Tulbury (Castle Inn), with a castle
-
 ;

MALVERN. 24. Route. 1 89

partly built by John of Gaunt, and used as one of the numerous prisons
of Mary, Queen of Scots. The parish-church of Tutbury has a Norman
facade, which has been spoiled by restoration. Near Tutbury alabaster
quarries are worked.
1351/2 M. Derby, see p. 350.

24. From Worcester to Hereford and Newport.

Great Western Railway to (30 M.) Hereford in 1V4-1 1 /* hr. (fares
6s. 3d!., 4s. id., 2s. lid. or 2s. frfrd.); to (71>/4 M.) Newport in 3-4V4 hrs.
(fares 12s. 10d., 9s. 10d., 6s. Vz<*-)-
The and stops again at (1 M.) Henwick
train crosses the Severn
(p. 183). Beyond (4 M.) Bransford Road the Malvern Hills come
into view on the right. —
7y2 M. Malvern Link 8% M. Great ;

Malvern 9 3/4 M. Malvern Wells.

;

Malvern. — Hotels. At Great Malvern: Imperial, near the station,

with pleasant grounds and brine baths, 'pens', from 31. 3s. per week;
"Abbey, "Bellevoe, "Foley Arms, all on the hill; Tddor Private Hotel;
Beauohamp, commercial, E. & A. 4s. 6(2., 'pens'. 31. 3s. per week ; Rayner's
Hydropathic; Leicester House Hydropathic, patients 42s., boarders
30s. a week. Also numerous Boarding Houses (5-10s. per day) and Lodgings.
— At Malvern Wells: Essingston Hotel; Hornyold Arms. — At North
Malvern: North Malvern Hotel. —
At West Malvern: Westminster Arms
Hotel.
Assembly Booms and Gardens in Great Malvern, with concerts (adm.
6d.). Spa and Pump Boom on the W. side of Worcester Beacon (adm. 6d.).
Cabs, Is. per mile or fraction of a mile for 1-2 pers.; each addit. pers.
6d. Carriage <fc Pair is. per hr., Is. 6d. for each addit. 1 /i hr., 21s. per
day; to Worcester and back 8s.; to the British Camp and back by the
Wyche 8s.; to Eastnor Castle and back 12s.
Malvern, an inland health-resort, famous for its bracing air
and pleasant situation, includes the town of Great Malvern (pop.
8000) and the villages of Malvern Link, Malvern Wells, Little
Malvern, North Malvern, and West Malvern, all consisting mainly
of villas, hotels, and hydropathic establishments. The first four
lie at the E. base of the Malvern Hills, a small chain 10 M. long
and 1000-1450 ft. high, forming the watershed between the Severn
and the Wye while the other two are on the N. and W. slopes
;

of the same range. The chief centre is Great Malvern, which

contains the Assembly Rooms and Gardens, the best hotels and
boarding-houses, and the principal shops but visitors in search of
;

quiet or economy will probably prefer one of the villages. The

principal springs are the Chalybeate Well and St. Ann's Well
(756 ft), at Great Malvern, and the Ho ly Well (680ft.), above
Malvern Wells. Malvern is a great educational centre the chief ,

school being Malvern College.

The beautiful *Priory Church, belonging to a priory founded
in the 11th cent., is externally a Perp. edifice, with a tower appa-
rently modelled on that of Gloucester Cathedral. The nave, how-
ever, and part of the rest of the interior are Norman.
Among the points of interest are St. Anne's Chapel (13th cent.); the
tiles at the back of the choir; the old stained-glass windows (the finest
in St. Anne's Chapel) ; the miserere carvings ; the mosaic in the reredos
 190 Route 24. MALVERN. From Worcester

and some of the monuments. —

The only other relic of the priory i9 the
Gateway, a little to the N. To students of early English literature Mal-
vern Priory is of interest as claiming to he the monastery of William
Langland, author of 'Piers Plowman's Vision', which begins on a 'May
mornynge on Maluerne hulles'. Organ recitals are given in the church on
Wed. afternoons.
Malvern Parva, 1M. to theS. of Malvern Wells,
Little Malvern or
also contains the interestingremains of a Norman church, consist-
ing of the tower and chancel.
Excursions. The Worcester Beacon (1444 ft.), the highest of the Mal-
vern Hills, rises immediately above Great Malvern and may be ascended
by easy paths in V« nr (P ouv 01 mule, about Is.). The route passes the
-
'

Priory Church and St. Ann's Well. The "View is very extensive, reach-
ing on the W. to the hills of Brecknock and stretching on the E. over
an apparently boundless plain. Hereford, Worcester, Gloucester, Chelten-
ham, and Tewkesbury are all within sight.
'Twelve fair counties saw the blaze
From Malvern's lonely height.'
The North Hill (1326 ft. '/z hr.), to the N. of the Worcester Beacon,
;

may also be ascended; and we may follow the ridge to the S., along an old
fosse dividing Worcestershire and Herefordshire, to the (1 M.) Wyche (see
below). Beyond the Wyche the walk may be continued along the ridge
to Wind's Point (830 ft.; British Camp Inn) and (3 M.) the "Herefordshire
Beacon (1370 ft.), the top of which has been converted into a strong British
Gamp, capable of holding 20,000 men. According to tradition, this was the
scene of the capture of Caractacus by the Romans in A. D.75.
The Bound of the Hills is a favourite drive from Great Malvern,
and may be made in an exeursion-brake plying from the Bellevue Hotel
(Is.). We skirt the E. slope of the hills, pass through the (l'/a M.) Wyche
Pass (800 ff .), to the S. of the Worcestershire Beacon, and return along the
W. side of the range via (IV2 M.) West Malvern and (1 M.) North Malvern.
Excursion-brakes also ply to (8 M.) Eastnor Park, the collection of
paintings and armour in which is shown to visitors on Tues. and
Fridays. The road to it leads by Malvern Wells, Malvern Parva, and
Wind's Point (see above), the last part traversing the beautiful park sur-
rounding the castle.
Excursions may also be made to Worcester, Evesham, Gloucester, Stoke
Edith Park (tickets obtained at the booksellers'), Ledbury, Tewkesbury, etc.
Beyond Malvern Wells the train penetrates the Malvern Hills
by a long tunnel. 11 M. Colwall, with an old church. Farther on,
Eastnor Castle (see above) and an obelisk in Eastnor Park are seen
to the right. Another tunnel, nearly 1 M. long, is then threaded.
— 1GM. Ledbury (Feathers), a busy little town, manufactures cider,
perry, sacking, and cordage. The large Church is an interesting
study in architectural styles, from Norman to Perpendicular.
From Ledbuky to Gloucester, 19 M., railway in 3/4-l'/4 hr. (3j. 5d., 2s.9d.,
is. ild. or Is. Id.). This line traverses a park-like district, with numerous
orchards. The intermediate stations are Dymock, with a massive church-
—
tower (to the left), Newent, and Barber's Bridge. 19 M. Gloucester, see p. 170.
19 M. Ashperton; 22 M. Stoke Edith, with the beautiful park
of Lady Foley; 25 M. Withington, with encaustic tile works.
30 M. Hereford, see p. 178. —
34i/ M. Tram Inn. About
2

V2 M. from (37 M.J St. Devereux is the interesting late-Norman

*0hurch of (t/2 M.) Kilpeck, with its elaborate sculptures, which
has been described as 'facile princeps amongs its fellows of the
same type'. — From (40V2 M.) Pontrilas a branch-line runs through
the 'Golden Valley' to (11 M.) Dorstone and (16 M.) Hay. The
 to Newport. ABERGAVENNY. 24. Route. 191

scenery now improves. To the right rise the Black Mountains. —

47V2 M. Pandy is the nearest railway-station for Llanthony Abbey,
5 M. to the N. W. The ruins consist of the church and chapter-
house and afford an interesting example of Transition Norman
,

(12th cent.), though part is as late as the 14th century. The Prior's
Lodge is now an inn. Walter Savage Landor (d. 1864) lived here
for some years. Llanthony Monastery, the home of Father Ignatius,
lies about 4 M. farther up the valley. —48*/2 M. Llanvihangel is
6Y2 M. from Llanthony Abbey.
Beyond Llanvihangel the Sugarloaf (1955 ft.), a spur of the
Black Mts. comes into view on the right. From (51 M.) Aberga-
,

venny Junction a line (L. N. W.) diverges on the right to Rhymney

Bridge (for Cardiff), Merthyr Tydvil (p. 194), Dowlais etc. Good
,

view to the right up the valley of the Vsk.

52 M. Abergavenny (* Angel; * Greyhound; Swan) is an ancient
town with 8000 inhab., situated at the junction of the Vsk and the
Gavenny, and enclosed by the Sugarloaf (1955 ft.), the Blorenge
(1908 ft.), Skyrrid-Vawr (1600 ft.), and other well-wooded hills
(see below). It occupies the site of the Roman Gobannium and
possesses the remains of a Norman castle (adm. Id.) and a modern-
ized Benedictine priory-church of the 14th cent, with several an-
cient monuments. Good fishing may be obtained in the Usk (day-
tickets for trout 2s. 6d., for salmon 5s.).
The Sugarloaf (1955 ft.) may be easily ascended from Abergavenny in
l'/s-2 hrs. (pony 5*.); "View fine and extensive. The descent may be made
on the W. side to Crickhowell (see below). — The Blorenge (1908 ft.;
IV2 hr.) commands an even finer view of the valley of the Usk, and Skyr-
rid-Vawr (1600 ft.), 4 M. to the N. E., is also a good point of view.
Abergavenny is a good starting-point for a visit to Llanthony Abbey
(see above), which may be reached direct by road (IOV2 M.; carr. & pair there
and back 25j.) or partly by rail via Llanvihangel or Pandy (see above). —
Another pleasant excursion may be taken up the finest part of the valley
of the Usk to (B 1 ^ M.; omn. Is. 6<Z.) Crickhowell (Bear), a village with
the remains of an old castle. Above Crickhowell the Usk valley is also
picturesque, and walkers or drivers will be repaid by following it to
(20 M.) Brecon (p. 204). — Tolerable walkers, who have one day at Aber-
gavenny, should ascend the Sugarloaf and return via Crickhowell.
From Abergavenny to Cardiffby the L. N.W.R. route, see above andp. 194.
Beyond (54V2 M.) Penpergwm we cross the Usk. — 61 Y2 M.
Pontypool Road (Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), the junction of lines to Mer-
thyrand Swansea (p. 193) and to Raglan and Monmouth (p. 176).
The manufacturing town of Pontypool (Crown; Clarence) lies
l J /2 M. to the W. —
68 M. Caerleon (Angel), on the Usk, the Isca
Silurum of the Romans, and the traditional residence of King
Arthur.
Near the church is an interesting Museum of Roman antiquities (adm.
the road opposite which leads to the well-defined Amphitheatre and
6<J.),
a mound known as King Arthur's Round Table. Caerleon was at a very
early period the seat of an archbishop, whose see was transferred in the
11th cent, to St. David's (p. 214).
At (71 y4 M.) Newport we join the railway described in R. 25.
192

25. From Gloucester to Cardiff, Swansea, andMilford.

Great Western Railway to (56 M.) Cardiff in i l lr-2 l /i hrs. (fares lis.,
8s., 5s. 9<2.); to (102 M.) Swansea in 3-4 hrs. (fares 20*., lis. 3d., 10s. Gd.
or 8s. Gd.), to (170 M.) Milford Haven in 5-73/4 hrs. (fares 33s., 24s., 17s. 9<f.
or 14s. 2 1 /id.). This line traverses the S. part of Wales (see p. xxx).
From Gloucester to (J 1 /? M.) Orange Court, see p. 173. Our
line here diverges to the left (S.J from that to Ross (see R. 22),
follows the right bank of the Severn, and skirts the E. margin of
the Forest of Dean (p. 177). 11 M. Newnham (Victoria). To the
left we have a good view of the Severn bridge mentioned at p. 122.
Beyond (14^4 M.) Awre we cross the line from Bristol to Sharpness
and Lydbrook, in the heart of the Forest of Dean; and at (19 M.)
Lydney those who wish to explore the Forest change carriages. —
The train then crosses the Wye by a tubular bridge, 630 ft. long,
and reaches (277-2 M.) Chepstow (see p. 177). Excursion through
the valley of the Wye, see pp. 174-177. —
Beyond (32 M.) Port-
skewett, the ruins of Caldicott Castle (p. 177) are seen to the right.
At (35 ] /4 M.) Severn Tunnel Junction our line unites with that
from Bristol (see p. 121).
44^2 M. Newport (* Westgate King'sEead ; Bail. Rfmt. Rooms),
;

a flourishing seaport at the mouth

of the Usk with 35,385 in-
,

hab., extensive docks, and a large export-trade in iron and coal,

is also an important railway - centre for the mining district of S.
Wales. The remains of the old Castle date from the 11th century. The
Church of St. Woollos has a good Norman interior and a massive
square tower (comp. p. xxxiii). Newport was the scene of Frost's abor-
tive Chartist rising in 1839. Caerleon (see above) lies about 3 M.
above Newport. —
Railway to Pontypool and Hereford, see R. 24.
Beyond (49 3 /4 M.) Marshfield the train crosses the Rhymney and
enters Glamorganshire, the southernmost county in "Wales.
56 M. Cardiff. - Hotels. Royal, 65 St. Mary St., R. & A. 4s.-,
Park, Crockherbtown (Queen St.), R. & A. from 4«., D. 2s.. Gd.-ls., board 10s.
Gd.; "Angel, Castle St., near the castle; Gkeat Western, at the E. end ot
St. Mary St., near the G. W. R. station. —
Queen's, 84 St. Mary St., com-
mercial; Alexandra, near the Taff Vale Station; Rafers Temperance,
Westgate St., behind the Royal ; Dock Hotel, unpretending. —
Philharmonic
Restaurant, St. Mary St.; Refreshment Rooms, at the G. W.R. station.
Tramways traverse some of the main streets. —
Omnibus from the E.
end of St. Mary St. to the Docks (fare Id.) and Penarlh (id.), from High
St. to Llandaff (3d.), etc.
St., not far from the Royal Hotel.
Post Office in St. Mary
TJ. Consul, Major Evan Jones, 52 Mount Stuart Sq.
S.
Royal Theatre, St. Mary St. —
Philharmonic Hall, St. Mary St.
Steamers ply from Cardiff daily to Bristol; 1-3 times weekly to Cork,
Swansea, Belfast, and Glasgow; also in summer, at irregular intervals to
Ilfracomoe, Weston, and Burnham. A small steamer also plies from the
Docks to Penarth.
Railway Stations. Great Western Railway Station, at the E. end of
St. Mary St.; Taff Vale Station, in Queen Street (Crockherbtown), nearly
1 M. to the W. ; Rhymney Station, adjoining the last; Docks Station of the
Taff Vale Co.
Cardiff (the 'Caer', or castle, on the Taff), a well-built and
 CARDIFF. 25. Route. 193

rapidly growing town with 105,000 inhal)., is situated on the 'taff,

2 M. above its mouth, and is the principal outlet for the coal and
iron of the surrounding district. The magnificent docks (see below)
were built by the late Marquis of Bute, the lord of the manor, to
whose spirit and energy the town owes much of its importance.
At the beginning of the present cent, the population of Cardiff was
little over 1000 ; and its recent growth may be estimated by the fact
that it was the only town of any considerable size that doubled its
population between 1871 and 1881. Cardiff, with an export of 8
million tons, now more than rivals Newcastle (p. 414) in the ex-
tent of its coal-trade. The annual number of vessels clearing the
port is about 13,000, of upwards of 5 million tons burden, a total
exceeded by Liverpool and London alone among English ports.
The main thoroughfare is St. Mary Street, which is prolonged
by High St. t leading to the castle and the bridge over the Taff.
,

Cardiff Castle (adm. by order obtained at the Bute Estate Office),

originally erected in the 11th cent., has been elaborately restored,
and is occasionally occupied by the Marquis of Bute. The castle was
the prison of Robert Curthose, eldest son of the Conqueror, who died
here after nearly 30 years' captivity. The ancient keep (14th cent.)
is still preserved; but the lofty clock -tower and other prominent
features of the exterior are modern, and most of the inhabited
rooms are quite new. The most interesting of the frescoes are those
in the Banquet Hall, illustrating the history of the Castle. —A
good view of the Castle is obtained from the prettily laid-out
Sophia Gardens, on the opposite bank of the river, which contain
the scanty ruins of an old Grey Friars Monastery. The Church of
St. John, in Church St., to the E. of High St., was built in the 13th
cent., but the fine Perp. tower is a later addition. — The Free
Library, in Working St., is well fitted up; upstairs is an Art Gallery,
with a few modern paintings (open 10-5, on Wed. & Sat. 10-9).
The *Docks, reached by crossing the canal at the E. end of St.
Mary St., consist of four main basins with ample accommoda-
,

tion for large vessels, and 5 M. of quays. Additional docks were

opened in 1889 at Barry, 8 M. to the S. W. (railway in 35-40 min.).
The South Wales College, established in the former Infirmary
in Newport Road, is attended by about 150 students.
The most interesting excursion from Cardiff is to Handaft Cathedral
(see p. 195), reached by railway, by road, or by a pretty field-path (2 M.).
At the mouth of the Taff estuary 4 M. from Cardiff, lies Penarth
,

(Penarth Hotel, on Penarth Head; Marine Inn, in the town), the marine
residence and bathing-resort of the Cardiffians, now containing about
10,000 inhabitants. It may be reached by railway, omnibus, or steamer
(comp. p. 192). The commercial part of the town lies on the N. side of
the Head, adjoining the extensive Penarth Docks; while the other side
is occupied by comfortable-looking villas, separated from the sea by an
Esplanade. The water is muddy and the beach covered with large peb-
bles; but fine salt-water swimming-baths have been erected. Above the

t The name High St. is now officially extended to St. Mary St.
Baedekek's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 13
1 94 Route 25. MERTHYR TYDVIL. From Gloucester

Esplanade are the Windsor Gardens (adm. Id.), affording pleasant walks
and views. A more extensive view is obtained from Penarth Head (200 ft.),
near the foreign-looking church. Geologists will find much to interest
them in the stratification of the cliifs at the E. end of the Esplanade.
From Cardiff to Caerphilly and Rhymney Bridge, 24 M., Rhymney
Railway in 1 hr. (fares 4s. 2d., 2s. 10d., 2s.). This line, which starts from
the Rhymney Station (p. 192) , forms part of the L. N. W. route to S.
Wales (comp. p. 191). The whole of this district is covered with a
dense network of railways, constructed chiefly for the mineral traffic
and of comparatively little importance to tourists. —
8 M. Caerphilly (Castle
Inn), on the Rhymney, is often visited for the sake of its 'Castle, a
picturesque and extensive ruin of the 13th cent. (adm. 3d.). Its system
of fortification is very elaborate, and seems to have included arrangements
by which the surrounding country could be laid under water. Soon after
its erection it came into the possession of the Despensers, the notorious
favourites of Edward II. (1307-1327), and that monarch once found shelter
here, just before his fall. The date of the destruction of the castle is
unknown. The 'Leaning Tower', at the S. E. corner (60 ft. high), seems
to owe its inclination to an attempt to blow it up with gunpowder. The
castle now belongs to the Marquis of Bute. —
15 M. Ystrad, prettily
situated in the valley of the Rhymney, which contracts above Caerphilly.
— 16 M. Hengoed is the junction for the G. W. R. line from Pontypool
to Swansea. — 22 M. Rhymney, with large iron-works, employing 7000 men.
— At (24 M.) Rhymney Bridge we join the line from Abergavenny to
Merthyr Tydvil (see p. 191).
From Cardiff to Merthyr Ttdvil, 241/2 M., Taff Vale Railway in
3/4-l hr. (fares 4s., 3s., Is. ll'^d-)- This line ascends the valley of the Taff,
the natural charms of which have to a great extent disappeared before
the steady advance of iron-works and coal-pits. —4V2 M. Llandaff Station,
I1/4 M. to the E. of the town (see p. 195). — From (7 M.) Walnut Tree
Junction Bridge (junction of line to Llantrissant, p. 197) we may visit
3
( /4 M.) Castell Coch ('red castle'), a finely-situated feudal chateau (13th
cent.; restored) belonging to the Marquis of Bute. Wine is made every
year from the small vineyard below the castle. —
At (13 M.) Newbridge
or Pontypridd Junction a line, diverging to the left, ascends the valley
of the Rhondda, the most important of the Glamorganshire colliery districts,
to (IOV2 M.) Treherbert, while another, to the right, leads to Caerphilly
(see above) and Newport (p. 1 &2) The 'Bridge from which Pontypridd takes
its name is a singularly graceful sione bridge spanning the Taff in a single
arch, 140 ft. wide and forming a perfect segment of a circle. It was
constructed in 1755 by a stone-mason named Edwards, after two unsuc-
cessful attempts. The cylindrical tunnels in the 'haunches' of the bridge
were made to lighten the masonry and so diminish the inward thrust. —
From (16 M.) Aberdare Junction a line runs to l h O M
Aberdare (with
large iron -works) and (10'/2) Hirwain Junction (p. 197). —
At (18 M.)
Quaker's Yard Junction we cross the G. W. R. line from Pontypool to
Hirwain. — Farther on we pass under the Neath Valley Railway (p. 197).
24*/2 M. Merthyr Tydvil (Castle, R. & A. 4s.; Bush, near the station,
both commercial) a busy but mean-looking and uninviting town with
,

about 50,000 inhabitants. It is of ancient origin, taking its name from

the virgin saint, Tydvil the Martyr (5th cent.) ; hut its importance is wholly
of modern growth, and three-quarters of a century ago it was an incon-
siderable village. It is the great centre of the iron-working district of
S. Wales, and the night aspect of the valley in which it lies, lit up by
the lurid glare of innumerable furnaces, is very impressive. At the Cy-
farthfa Iron Works, about 1 M. from the station, the newest and best
processes for smelting iron and converting it into steel may be seen.
Above the works is Cyfarthfa Castle, the residence of the senior partner.
— An omnibus runs from Merthyr to (2 M.) Dowlais, with the Dowlais Iron
& Steel Works, wich are on a still more extensive scale. Within their
precincts are some remains of the old castle of Morlais, formerly the
residence of the Welsh princes of Brecon. Visitors are courteously ad-
mitted to either establishment on application at the office.
 to Milford. LLANDAFF. 25. Route. 1 95
Travellers who do not wish to return to Cardiff may go on from
Merthyr eastwards to Abergavenny (p. 191), northwards to Brecon (p. 204),
or westwards to Swansea (p. 197).
About 5 min. after leaving Cardiff the train stops at (58 M.)
Ely, the station for Ilandaff (Red Lion), 1 M. to the right, the
smallest city in England (700 inhab.), now practically a suburb
of Cardiff and a favourite residence of rich Cardiffians. It is in-
teresting as the seat of perhaps the oldest episcopal see in Great
Britain, established by SS. Dubritius and Teilo at the end of the
6th century. On our way from the station to the cathedral we pass
the large castellated gateway of the old Bishop's Palace (destroyed
by Owen Glendower). Near the gateway is a Cross, on an ancient base.
The *Cathedral, pleasantly situated amid trees, at the foot of a
slope rising above the river Taff, occupies the same spot as the ear-
liest church of SS. Dubritius and Teilo. This, however, which seems
to have been a very small edifice, was removed by Bishop Urban
(1107-1133), who undertook the erection of an entirely new church.
In the E. E. period Urban' s church was extended westwards as
far as the present W. front and the only remains of it are
,

the Norman arch between the Presbytery and Lady Chapel, part
of the S. wall of the former, and the Norman doorways incorpo-
rated in the aisle-walls. The Chapter House is also E.E., of a some-
what later date the Lady Chapel is early Dec. the Presbytery and
; ;

the walls of the aisles both in nave and choir were rebuilt in the
late Dec. period; and the N. W. tower was built by Jasper Tudor,
uncle of Henry VII., while the S. W. tower (E. E.) seems to have
been left standing. At a later date the building was completely
neglected; the W. end of the nave collapsed at the beginning
of last cent., and the cathedral became an absolute ruin. About
1735-40 a sort of Italian temple was made within the walls, occu-
pying the presbytery, choir, and E. end of the nave and this ab-
;

surd erection remained till 1843, when the restoration which cul-
minated in the present church was begun. The architect was Mr.
Prichard, to whom is due also the S.W. tower (195 ft), replacing
the original E. E. tower, pulled down in 1786. —
The cathedral
is 175 ft. long from E. to W., and 72 ft. wide across the nave and
aisles. The daily services are at 10 a. m. and 5 p.m., the latter
choral.
'There may beother churches which, in some points, come nearer
to ideal perfection, but then there is none which has in the same way
risen to a new life out of a state of such seemingly hopeless ruin'.
The Exterior of the building, owing to the lack of transepts, suggests
a large parish-church rather than a cathedral. The W. facade, however,
the central part of which belongs to the E. E. edifice, is fine, and has
been compared to those of Ripon Cathedral and St. Remi at Rheims. Mr.
Freeman comments on the satisfactory effect produced by the perspicuity
of its construction, which is in no way disguised by the ornamentation.
The "Interior, being open from end to end, is very impressive. Among
the chief points of interest are the grand late-Norman "Arch between the
presbytery and the Lady Chapel; the '-Altar-piece by Bossetti; the Lady
Chapel; the Chapter House, which is of very unusual form (square, with
13*
196 Route 25. NEATH. From Gloucester

a central pillar); the monuments of Sir David Matthew, standard-bearer

of Edward IV. (N. aisle of presbytery) and Sir William Matthew (d. 1528;
N. aisle of nave); and the supposed tomb of St. Teilo, on the S. side of
the presbytery. The way in which the E. bays of the ritual choir are blocked
up is supposed to be due to the former existence of a pair of small tran-
septal towers. The roof throughout is modern; so also is the stained glass,
which includes some good specimens of Morris. — In the churchyard
is a Memorial Cross to Dean Conybeare (d. 1857), an eminent geologist.
— The group of neat modern buildings on the slope above the cathedral
include the Deanery and the Canonry. Adjacent is the Cathedral School,
founded by Dr. Vaughan, Dean of Llandaff.
Between Cardiff and Llantrissant the train crosses the Ely
sixteen times. 60 M. St. Fagans, with the seat of Lord Windsor,
takes its name from an early missionary, said to have been sent
from Rome in A. D. 180. — 67 M. Llantrissant ("Windsor Arms),
picturesquely situated on a hill at some distance to the N. of the
station, is the junction of a branch -line to (6 M.) Cowbridge
(Bear), a small town with the remains of some old fortifications.
Cowbridge is the nearest railway-station to (5V2 M.) Llantwit Major,
with an interesting double church, dating in its present form from the
13- 14th centuries. It represents, however, a monastic foundation of the
5th cent., to which was attached a famous College ('the first Christian
school of learning in Britain'), where Gildas, Taliesin, and other emi-
nent Welshmen were educated. The epithet of 'New Church', generally
applied to the E. part of the structure, which is really the older, is
supposed to have come into use at the Eeformation, when the old mon-
astic church became the 'new' parish -church. —
Near Llantwit is a
ruined castle locally known as the Old Place.
On the coast, about 2 M. to the W. of Llantwit. is St. Donat's Castle,
a picturesque castellated mansion of the 16th cent., containing some fine
wood-carving by Grinling Gibbons. A room is shown in which Arch-
bishop Usher found shelter in 1645-46.
75'/2 M. Bridgend (* Wyndham Arms ; Bear, Castle plain), the
junction for the Llynfi Valley Railway (to Maesteg), is a small
town, with 7000 inhab. and the scanty remains of a Norman castle.
Visits may be paid to Ogmore Castle, a Norman fragment, 2>/2 M. to
the S. W. to the (2 M.) ruins of Ewenny Priory, founded in 1146 and
;

(according to Mr. Freeman) 'perhaps the best specimen of a fortified eccle-

siastical building, the union of castle and monastery in the same struc-
1
ture ; to Coity Castle (13-14th cent.) and Coity Church (good window tra-
cery), 2 M. to the N. E.; and to Southerndown (Marine), a small watering-
place, and Dunraven Castle, a modern mansion finely situated on a rocky
promontory, 5-6 M. to the S. Dunraven is believed to occupy the site of
a royal residence of Caractacus. Near it are the Nash Cliffs, a fine bit of
coast-scenery.
Near (88 M.) Port Talbot, the outlet for the copper, coal, and
iron of the Vale of Afon, are the fine mansion and grounds of
Margam Abbey with the ruins of a Cistercian monastery of the
,

12th century. The orangery contains a collection of orange-trees,

raised from a cargo that was wrecked here on its way to London for
the use of Queen Mary, wife of William III. —
ijl 1 /^ M. Briton

Ferry, the port of Neath.

94 M. Neath (*Castle; *Mackworth; Vale of Neath Arms), a town
with 10, 450 inhab., situated at the mouth of the Neath and surrounded
by coal, iron, tin, and copper works. About 1 M. to the N. are the
 to Milford. SWANSEA. 25. Route. 1 97

ruing of Neath Abbey, founded in 1111. The Castle, of which only

the entrance-gate and towers remain, lies to the right of the station.
From Neath to Meethtk Tydvil, 24 M., railway in i ] /4hr. (fares it. 9d.'
3s., 1*. lid.). This railway ascends the beautiful '-Vale of Neath, with
numerous waterfalls, wooded ravines, and picturesque crags. The finest
falls are near Pont Neath Vaughan (Dinas Hotel; Angel), where the ra-
vines of the Neath, the Hepite, the Mellle, and the Perddyn, each con-
taining a series of falls, converge. Pont Neath lies 3 M. above (7 M.) Qlyn
Neath (Lamb & Flag, '/t II. from the station), the nearest railway-station.
— I6V2 M. Hirwain (p. 194). — 24 M. Merthyr lydvil, see p. 194.
From Neath to Brecon, see R. 26.
On leaving Neath we pass the ruins of the castle on the right,
and those of the abbey (a little farther on) on the left. 101 M. —
Lnndore (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) the junction of the short line
,

to (1 M.) Swansea, lies in the middle of a district blackened and

desolated by the smoke of innumerable copper-works.
Swansea (Mackworth Arms, high charges *Longlands Tem-
;

perance, R. & A. from 3s.; Cameron Arms; Castle; Great Western

Temperance), Welsh Abertawe, a busy town of about 100, OOOinhab.,
situated at the mouth of the Tawe, in the N.W. angle of Swansea
Bay, is the chief seat of the copper trade of England, and perhaps
the most important copper-smelting centre in the world.
About 20,000 tons of copper (valued at 3-4 millions sterling) are ann-
ually produced by its foundries. No copper is found in this part of Wales,
but the ore is brought hither from Cornwall and foreign countries owini;
to the abundance and cheapness of fuel, there being about 250 coal-pits
within a radius of 15 M. This abundance has also led to the erection of
numerous iron, zinc, lead, tin-plate, and other manufactories, while the
docks are entered annually by 5000 vessels with a burden of upwards of
2,000,000 tons. About 2,000,000 tons of tin-plates, value 3,000,000*, are
exported annually, while the total valne of the trade of Swanse^ (import
and export) is estimated at 8-10 millions sterling. In certain states of the
wind Swansea is completely enveloped in the smoke of the copper-works,
which, however, is said to be less unhealthy than one would suppose.
In Swansea itself, the name of which may be a corruption of
'Sweyn's Ey', or island, there is little to detain the traveller, and
visitors to the Gower Peninsula (p. 198) are advised to proceed
at once to the Mumbles. The scanty remains of the Castle, dating
from the 14th cent, are hidden among the buildings adjoining the
Post Office, in Castle St. ; but a view of the fine arcaded parapet
(comp. p. 212) round the keep may be obtained by descending the
narrow lane to the right. —
Near the Victoria Station (L. N. W.)
and the extensive Docks is the Royal Institute of South Wales, con-
taining a small museum of local antiquities (adm. id.). —
In the
Alexandra Road , not far from the O. W. R. Station is the Free ,

Library and Institute of Science and Art. The nave of the Parish
Church of St. Mary is ugly and featureless, but the Dec. chancel, the
reputed work of Bishop Gower (p. 212), is interesting, and contains
a few old brasses and monuments. —
Permission to visit one of the
large Copper Works, or the Siemens Steel Works (with 1300 men),
at Landore , is generally obtainable on previous application. The
'tapping' of a blast-furnace at night is an imposing sight.
1 98 Route 25. THE MUMBLES. From Gloucester

A good general view of Swansea is obtained from the hill

named the Oraig which rises a little to the W. of the G. W. R.
,

Station. To reach the top we may follow the steep road named
Mount Pleasant, bearing to the right beyond the Grammar School
and leaving the Work House to the left. —
Kilvey Hill, on the
opposite (E.) side of the river, is also a good point of view. A —
fine view of Swansea Bay is obtained from the end of the W. Pier,
which is 2000 ft. long.
Steamers ply regularly from Swansea to Bristol, Glasgow, Liverpool,
and Belfast, and in summer to Ilfracombe (2 hrs.) and Padstow.
From Swansea to Brecon, see p. 205.

From Swansea to the Mumbles (Oystermouth), 5 M., Steam

Tramway, starting near the Victoria Station (p. 197), hourly during
the day (fare Ad. in 'reserved car' 8d.).
; —
The pleasant road skirts
the sands of Swansea Bay, the natural beauty of which triumphs
over many disadvantages. For the first 3 M. the L. N. "W. Railway
(see p. 199) runs between the sea and the road. At Swansea Bay
Station, St. Helen's Road, the steam-tramway unites with the horse-
tramway from Gower St. Farther on we pass (on the right) the
Swansea Cricket Ground and Park Wern, the latter containing a
large colony of wild white rabbits. At (3 M.) Black Pill is the
Mumbles Road Station of the L. N.W. Railway. To the left are the
remains of a submerged forest. —
The tramway-terminus at the
Mumbles is about */2 M. from the hotels.
The Mumbles (*Ship § Castle ; George ; Mermaid ; Lodgings) is
a small watering-place which has developed out of the fishing-
village of Oystermouth and has assumed the name that in strict
parlance belongs to the detached rocks off the S. horn of Swansea
Bay. The name is supposed to be derived from the resemblance of
these rocks to projecting breasts (mammae). The oyster-beds here
are nearly exhausted. The bathing is tolerable, and a good view of
Swansea is enjoyed across the bay; but, as there is nothing of
special interest, the traveller had better sleep at Langland Bay or
Caswell Bay (see below; pony chaise Is. 6d.-2s. 6d.) visiting ,

Oystermouth Castle on the way. A visit may also be paid to the

Lighthouse on Mumbles Head.
The Mumbles forms the usual and most convenient portal to the "Gower
Peninsula, which projects from the SW. corner of Glamorganshire, and
is about 15 M. long and 5-6 M. broad. Though comparatively little known,
the whole of this peninsula is picturesque enough to repay a stay of several
days but the finest scenery, that of the S. coast, may be fairly explored in
;

one day's walk. It is emphatically a district for the pedestrian, as beyond

the railway-termini there is no convenient transport for visitors (omnibuses,
see p. 199), while many of the finest points are inaccessible except on foot.
Inns are few and far between, and those who explore the district
thoroughly must now and again be content with farm-house or coast-
guard accommodation. Two-thirds of Gower are occupied by the English-
speaking descendants of Flemish or Norman colonists, who have cooped
up the original Welsh inhabitants in the N. W. corner (comp. p. 208). The
churches, though rudely built, possess various features of interest; their
 to Milford. GOWER. 25. Route. 199

towers, resembling those of Pembrokeshire (p. 209), combine the character

of a campanile and a stronghold. The student of mediaeval architecture
should provide himself with Freeman's 'Notes on the Architectural Anti-
quities of Gower' (1850). The antiquarian will also find much to interest
him in the peninsula.
The railway-stations nearest to the centre of the Peninsula are Llan-
morlais, to the N., and Killay , on the E., both on the ramification of
the L. N. W. Railway which extends hence to Craven Arms and Shrews-
bury (comp. pp. 201, 205). Omnibuses also ply between Swansea and
several of the villages in Gower, generally leaving Gower early in the
morning and returning about 6 p.m.
The following pound of about 25 M. from the Mumbles, or 20 M. from
Caswell Bay, will give a fairly adequate idea of Gower scenery. Ample
time (9-10 hrs.) should be allowed for the excursion, as some of the
walking is rather rough. — From the tramway- terminus at the Mumbles
(see above) we follow the road for 150 yds. farther and take the road
leading inland (to the right), past Oystermouth Castle, a picturesque and
extensive ruin of the 14th cent, (small fee to the keeper). At the top of
the hill, a few hundred yards farther, just beyond the school, we diverge
to the left from the direct road to Caswell Bay, in order to visit the pretty
little ( 3/4 M.) Langland Bay ("Langland Bay Hotel, D. 4s.), where there
are a few villas. From Langland a steep lane leads us back to the P/j M.)
main road, where we turn to the left. 1 M. Caswell Bay ("Hotel, un-
pretending, R., B., & A. 5«.) is a charming little sandy cove, flanked with
rocks and enlivened with one or two private residences in addition to the
hotel. The bathing here and at Langland Bay is, however, rather dangerous
on account of the strong outward currents. From the hotel we follow
the road for 5 min. more; then diverge to the left through the bracken
and gorse, cross a stile, and descend to (5 min.) Brandy Cove, a small
green inlet owing its name to smuggling traditions. We cross this cove
and follow the path leading round the cliffs (easier than the cart-track
over the top of the promontory) to 0A hr.) Pwll-du Bay ('Poolth-dee';
Beaufort Arms, small), with its curious banks of pebbles. Fine view of
the Pwll-du Head , a bold mass of limestone on the other side of the bay.
[From Pwll-du a path leads inland through the well-wooded Bishopston
Valley to (2 M.) Bishopston (p. 201).] From the inn we ascend a rough and
steep track to (8-10 min.) the hamlet of High Pennard, where we take a
lane to the right (inland) , following it to the left when it bends and
regaining the cliff-track near (8 min.) a farmhouse, with a pond in front
of it. About 4 min. beyond the farm is a ruinous stone cattle-shed, opposite
which begins a faintly marked path, descending deviously to the left to
Bacon Hole, a cave on this side of the W. promontory of the bay, almost
in a straight line below the shed. The cave is interesting to scientific
visitors owing to the fact that large deposits of prehistoric bones were
found here in 1850, but its appearance is insignificant. The limestone
cliffs, however, along this part of the coast are very fine, though scarcely
so grand or varied as those near Tenby (see p. 209). We now return to
the track on the top of the cliffs (though experts, who think it worth
while, may follow a difficult and even dangerous path along their face to
two other caves) and in about 10 min. reach another stone hut, in a line
with which, to the left, is Minchin Head, easily recognised by the knob
of white limestone at the top. Below this knob is Minchin Hole, a cave
extending into the rock for a distance of 170 ft. The descent to it , over
slippery turf, requires caution and a steady head, but those who do not
care for this scramble should not miss the 'View of the coast from the
top of the promontory.
Continuing to follow the track over the head of the cliffs, we cross
the elastic turf of Pennard Burrows and soon come in sight of the large
Union Workhouse, on the slope of Oefn Bryn. In l /i hr. we see the hamlet
of James Qreen to the right , and in 5 min. more the ruin of Pennard
Castle. To the left the cliffs here recede, leaving room for the sandy bay
of Shire Combe. At low tide we may descend to the beach and pass through
the natural archway at the W. end of this bay, but at high tide we must
200 Route 55. ROWER. From Gloucester

cross the, neck to reach *Threa Cliffs Bay. The origin of the name appears
when we look hack at the rocks separaling it from Shire Combe Bay. A
small stream here enters the sea. Three Cliffs Pay is hounded on the W.
by a tine promontory called the High Tor, which may be rounded at low
water. On the other side extend the beautiful sands of Oxwich Bay, along
which we can walk all the way to (2 M.) the church (a typical example
of a Gnwer church) and parsonage of Oxwich, nestling under the cliffs at
the W. extremity. Here also is a coastguard's cottage, where refreshments
and a bed may he obtained. Amid the woods to the right, as we cross
the bay, are visible the village, church, and old castle of Penrice. The
village" of Oxwich lies a little inland (to the N.) of the church, while Ox-
wich Castle (16th cent.) now incorporated with a farm-house , stands on
,

the top of the cliffs.

[Those who do not care to see the Culver Hole (see below), or to go on
to the Worms Head, may turn inland at Oxwich and proceed via. Pen-y-
liitch and Reynoldston to (5'/2 M.) Arthur's Stone (see below).]
From Oxwich we may ascend the rough road passing to the right of
the castle, and then descend through the village of Slade, to Port Eynon
Bay, another level expanse of sand. A walk of a /t hr. from Oxwich brings
us to Port Eynon (Inn, small) where primitive summer-quarters and good
bathing may be had. Here a hoy may be engaged to show the way to
Culver Hole, an interesting cavern on the other side of the promontory
bounding Port Eynon Bay on the W. The cave consists of a spacious
chamber in the limestone rock, the lofty and narrow opening of which is
filled with solid masonry, leaving only a small and low entrance. This
work is usually ascribed to smugglers of byegone days, though it is diffi-
cult to see how they could have approached it by sea except in very calm
weather. From a point on the top of the cliff an easy zigzag path winds
down the grassy jSlope to the cave, but the last part of the descent is un-
pleasant for ladies.
[The walk along the cliffs from Port Eynon to (8-9 M.) the Worms
Head, passing the Paviland Caves and "Mewslade Bay, is very fine, hut
would necessitate another day in Gower. The 'Worms Head, perhaps
the grandest piece of rock -scenery in the peninsula, consists of a long
narrow promontory, stretching into the sea for about 1 M. and quite
detached from the mainland at high-water. Near the point is a curious
'Blow Hole', resembling the Devil's Bellows at Kynance Cove (p. 147), and
making a sharp whistling sound when the wind or sea is high. — Visi-
tors to the Worms may obtain accommodation at a farm-house at Bhossily,
a village about 1 M. from the neck of the headland. Rhossily is 6 M. by
road from Reynoldston (see below), at which is the nearest decent inn.]
Starting from Port Eynon on our return-journey, we walk across the
sand-hills to ( 3 Ai M.) the village of Horton, which we see in front of us.
Thence we follow the road in a straight (N.E.) direction to (2 M.) Penrice
fcomp. above), with its church, and beyond it make a rapid descent, at
the foot of which is the iron gate of the avenue to Penrice House. To
visit the ivy-clad ruins of Penrice Castle (permission necessary), dating in
part from the 12th cent., we pass through this gate, leaving the grounds
at the other end of the avenue by the lodge on the main road to Swansea.
I
Those who wish to visit Arthur s Stone, the best-known cromlech in
Gower, here turn to the left, and then, at P/4 M.) the cross-roads, where
there is a building curiously supported on stone props, to the right. Our
road crosses the ridge of Cefn Bryn and leads to (1 M.) the road from
Reynoldston to Killay (p. 199), at a point near a so-called 'Holy Well'.
Hence we proceed to the left for ] /3 M., and then leave the road by a
grass-track to visit Arthur's Stone, which lies on the moor about l |^ M.
to the right. The cap-stone of this large cromlech is 14 ft. long, and
weighs 25 tons. Arthur's Stone is about 4>/2 M. from Llanmorlais (p. 19-).
— In returning we may vary the route by proceeding to the W. to (1 M.)
Reynoldston ('Arthur's Stone Hotel, unpretending), where the road turns
to the S. and soon reaches ( 3 /t M.) the Swansea road, at a point about
l'/2 M. to the W. of that at which we quitted it.]
For Caswell Bay we turn to the right on reaching the Swansea road
 to Milford. LLANELLY. 25. Route. 201

(see p. 200). After about 1 M. we pass the church of Nicholailon on the

right, and 1 M. farther on reach the houses of Penmaen, with the West
Gower Workhouse (p. 199) above us on the left. At C/4 M.) Penmaen Church,
now of no interest through unskilful restoration, a road diverging to the
left leads to the summit of Gefn Bryn (690 ft. ; 'View). Our road descends
to (1 M.) the village of Pari Mill, 1/2 M. beyond which are the new Schools,
the mouth of the llston Valley, and the small Oower Inn, a convenient
centre for several excursions. Pennard Castle (p. 199) lies about 1 M. to
the S. Beyond the Gower Inn the road ascends past Kilvrough House to
(IV2 M.) a lime-kiln (on the left). Here we quit the road by a gate on
the right and follow a path, which crosses fields, stiles, and another road,
to P/« M.) Kittle. At Kittle we join the road which descends to the bottom
of the valley and then ascends steeply to O/4 M.) Biihopston (Tnn). (Walk
through the valley to the sea, see p. 199.) Passing through Bishopston, we
follow the road for 1 M. farther, and turn to the left at the foot of the
hill, where it strikes another road at right angles. A few hundred yards
farther on, by a stone wall, we turn to the right and follow the road to
M.) Caswell Bay (p. 199).
(3/ 4
From the point at which we quitted it (see above), the road to
(7 M.) Swansea runs to the N.E. to (3 M.) Eillay Station, and then almost
due E. to (2 M.) Sketly and (2 M.) Swansea (p. 197).

After leaving Landore (p. 197) the train penetrates a tunnel

and near (105 M.) Gowerton intersects the L.N.W. line from Cra-
ven Arms to Swansea (comp. p. 199). —
To the right, at (10772 M.)
Loughor are the ruins of a Norman castle. We then cross the
,

estuary of the Llwehwr (Loughor), or Burry.

lll'/2 M. Llanelly (Stepney Arms), a manufacturing town and
mineral port, with 20,000 inhabitants. Large quantities of coal are
exported hence to France, Spain, and the Mediterranean. Llanelly
is the junction of a line to Llandilo (p. 207) and Llandovery
(comp. p. 206). —
Beyond Llanelly the train quits the mineral
district, and the scenery improves. The line is carried along the
shore on an embankment. — H5 J /2 M. Pembrey and Burry Port,
with large copper-works. —120 M. Kidwelly (Pelican), pleasantly
situated on Carmarthen Bay, with a picturesque ruined castle (14th
cent.) and an interesting church (Dec). —
The train now ascends
the left bank of the estuary of the Towy. From (124^2 M.) Ferryside
(White "Lion), a small seaside resort, we have a good view of the
ruins of Llanstephan Castle, on the opposite side of the estuary.
Walkers may follow the coast from Llanstephan (ferry 3d.) to (19 M.)
Tenby (p. 209), via (3'/2 M.) Laugharne (pron. 'Larne'), with an old castle,
still inhabited, (4V2 M.) Pcndine, (5'/s M.) Amroth, and (3 M.) Saundertfoot.
From Ferryside the train ascends along the Towy (views)
to (130 M.) Carmarthen Junction (Rail. Refreshment Rooms), the
junction for (1 M.) Carmarthen, Lampeter, and Aberystwith (see
p. 208). We have a good view, to the right, of the Vale of Towy and
the town of Carmarthen. — The train crosses the Towy. 139 M.
St. Clears (Station Hotel) was the centre of the 'Rebecca Riots' of
1843, the object of which was the abolition of turnpike - gates.
(The name is an allusion to Gen. xxiv. 60.)
145 M. Whitland (Yelverton Arms) is the junction of lines to
Tenby and Pembroke (see R. 28) and to Cardigan.
202 Route :>5. MILFORD.
Fkom Whitland to Cardigan, 27>/2 M., in iy2 hr. (5*. 10d., Is. id., 2s.
lid. or 2s. 3 l /id.). This line ascends the prettily-wooded valley of the Afon
Tci?. — I6V2 31. Crymmych Arms is the nearest railway-station for (11 M.)
Newport (Llwyngair Arms; Commercial), to which a coach plies daily
(fare 2s. Gd.). Crymmych Arms is also the starting-point for a walk
along the Precely Hills to (61/2 M.) Precely Top (1735 ft.), the highest point
in Pembrokeshire. — Beyond Crymmych Arms the train crosses the cul-
minating point of the line (690 ft.) and descends (fine views of the coast)
to (20 ] /2 M.) Boncath and (24 M.) Kilgerran, the latter with a ruined castle
(13th cent.), on a high cliff overlooking the most picturesque part of the
narrow valley of the Teifi. — 27V2 31. Cardigan (Black Lion), a small and
dull town, at the mouth of the Teifi, with 4000 inhab. and the scanty
remains of an old castle. A coach runs hence through the pretty valley
of the Teifi, passing the picturesque ravine at the Henllan Falls, to (10 M.)
Newcastle Emlyn (Salutation Hotel), a good fishing-station, and (19 31.)
Llandyssil (p. 203). The road running northwards to (20 M.) New Quay
(p. 208) and (23 M.) Aberayron (p. 208) offers few attractions to the tourist,
but some of the coast scenery is fine.
Beyond Whitland the Precely Hills (see above) are visible to
the right. — 162 M. Haverfordwest (*Castle ; Salutation, com-
mercial), a small town on the Cleddau , with 6000 inhab. and
the shell of an old castle prominently situated in its midst. The
interesting Church of St. Mary contains a good effigy of a pilgrim
(16th cent.). Near the river are the ruins of an Augustine Priory
(E.E.). Haverfordwest was the capital of the Flemish colony
settled in Pembroke at the beginning of the 12th cent, (see p. 208).
About 4 ] /2 M. to the S. E. is 'Picton Castle (order obtained at the
estate-office in Haverfordwest) an admirable specimen of the fastness of
,

a Norman baron of the 11th cent., though somewhat marred by modern

additions. It lies in the midst of a beautiful park. —
Coaches ply from
Haverfordwest to (16 M.) St. David's (see p. 214), to (15 M.) Fishguard (fare
2s. 6d. ; see p. 216), and to (7 M.) Little Haven.
As the train leaves Haverfordwest we obtain good views of the
castle and priory to the right. At (167 M.) Johnston Junction the
line forks one branch going to (170 M.) Milford and the other to
,

(171 M.) New Milford. As we approach the former we see the scanty
ruins of Pill Priory in a valley to the right.
Milford (Lord Nelson), a town with 4000 inhab., lies about
6 M. above the mouth of Milford Haven a splendid harbour, in
,

which the whole English navy could ride securely at anchor.

It was formerly a considerable seaport, and it is frequently men-
tioned in Shakespeare's 'Cymbeline'; but the attempts of modern
enterprise and capital to revive its importance have hitherto re-
sulted only in a conglomeration of large but deserted docks, quays,
and lines of railway. On a building near the station is a tablet
recording, in amusingly pompous language, the visit of George IV.
in 1821. Henry VII. landed here in 1485, as Earl of Richmond,
on his way to claim the crown.
New Milford or Neyland (*South Wales Hotel, R. & A. from
3s. 6d.), which lies a little farther up the Haven, directly opposite
Pembroke Dock (p. 213), is the terminus of the G. W. Railway
and the starting-point of steamers to "Waterford and Cork. Steam
Ferry to Pembroke Dock (Hobbes Point, p. 213) 2d., return- fare 3d.
 HAY. 26. Route. 203
Pleasant boating-excursions may be made in 'fflilford Haven, and its
various ramifications explored. In fine weather a boat is the best means
of passing from the one Milford to the other; but the road (5 M.) is also
not unattractive. The Haven is protected by fortifications.

26. From Hereford to Brecon and Swansea.

Midland Railwat from Hereford to (38 M.) Brecon in i 3 /t hr. (fares 5*.,
3s. V/zd.); to (78 M.) Swansea in 4 hrs. (fares Us. 4<J., 6s. 5Vs<*0- This
route traverses much of the finest scenery in South Wales, and a visit
to the Upper Valley of the Wye (see below) may be combined with it.
The train starts from the Barton Station (see p. 180). The first
few stations are unimportant. Near (9 M.) Moorhampton a well-
preserved portion of Offds Dyke (p. 264) is visible. At (13'/2 M.)
Eardisley a line diverges to Kington, Presteign, and New Radnor.
Beyond (17 M.) Whitney we cross the Wye and pass Clifford Castle
(to the left), the traditional birthplace of 'Fair Rosamond'.
21 M. Hay (Crown; Blue Boar), an old Norman border-town,
with 2000 inhab. and the scanty remains of a castle. The name,
like the Hague in Holland, means a hedge or enclosure (French haie).
The station here is in England (Herefordshire) and the town in
Wales (Breconshire). Those who wish to explore the Upper Wye
(see below) on foot may begin at Hay; and a pleasant walk may
also be taken to the S. across the Black Mts. to (12 M.) Llanthony
(p. 191). —
2472 M. Olasbury. Good view of the Wye Valley.
26 M. Three Cocks Junction (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms; Three
Cocks Inn, */2 M. to the E.) is the junction for the Mid-Wales Rail-
way (Cambrian) through the Upper Valley of the Wye. To the left
rise the Black Mountains (p. 191).
Feom Thkee Cocks Junction to Moat Lane, 48 M., railway in 3-3 hrs.
This line follows the upper course of the Wye,
(fares 9s. lid., 6s. lid., 4s.).
the beautiful scenery of which is, however, best explored by the ped-
estrian. — From (7 M.) Boughrood a visit may be paid to Craig Pwll Du,
or rock of the black pit, below which is a waterfall 25 ft. high. — 91/2 M.
Aberedw, at the mouth of the romantic glen of the Edw , with an old
church. — 14 M. Builth or Builth Wells (Lion; Crown), a small town
with chalybeate and sulphur springs and the earthworks of a castle.
About 2'/2 M. to the W. is Cwm Llewelyn, where Llewelyn , the last native
Prince of Wales, was defeated and slain by the English in 1282. — At
(16 M.) Llechryd Junction (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) our line intersects the
Central Wales Railway (L.N.W. ; Builth Road station; not to be confounded
with the Mid-Wales Railway) from Craven Arms to Carmarthen and Swansea
(comp. p. 205). — 20 M. Neiebridge-on-Wye (New Inn); 24 M. Doldoalod.
261/2 M. Rhayader (Lion), a small town beautifully situated on the
Wye and surrounded by lofty hills. "Cwm Elan, or valley of the Elan,
5 M. to the S. W., is a beautiful little glen; 1 M. farther on is Nant Qwyllt,
occupied by Shelley after his marriage with Harriet Westbrook. — The
train now leaves the Wye and runs towards the N., passing the flannel-
making town of (3OV2M.) Llanidloes (Trewythan Arms), to (48 M.) Moat
Lane, where it reaches the line from Shrewsbury to Aberystwith (see p. 265).
From Rhayader the walker may follow up the Wye to its (18 M.)
source on the slopes of Plinlimmon (2460 ft.), halfway to Aberystwith
(p. 267). There are few pleasanter walking-tours of a week's duration
in England than that afforded by a descent of the Wye from the source to
the mouth, a distance of 130 M. The lower course, from Ross to Chep-
stow, is described at p. 174 et seq.
 —

204 Route 2(5. BRECON. From Hereford

29 M. Talgarth (Ashburnham Arms). The finely-shaped Brecon

Beacons (see below) now come into view on the left. On the same
side is Llyn Safadden or Llangorse Pool. —
33!/2 M. Talyllyn (Rail.
Refreshmt. Rooms) is the junction of a line to Dowlais and Merthyr
Tydvil (p. 194). The train now passes through a tunnel, on emerg-
ing from which we have a fine view of the Vsk, with the Brecon
Beacons in the background. To the right, as we enter Brecon
station, is the Memorial College, erected in commemoration of the
Nonconforming clergy of 1662.
§38 M. Brecon (Castle, R. & A. 4s.; Wellington), the capital of
Breconshire or Brecknockshire, is a town of 6623 inhab., charmingly
situated in a depression at the confluence of the Vsk and the Honddu.
In the Ely Tower, a fragment of the old castle, in the garden of the
Oastle Hotel, took place the famous conference between the Bishop
of Ely and the Duke of Buckingham which resulted in the overthrow
of Richard III. The top commands a good view of the Beacons. •

The * Priory Church of St. John (keys kept in a white cottage to

the left of the entrance; fee 6d.), a good E.E. and Dec. edifice,
with a massive tower, has been well restored by Sir G. G. Scott.
Mr. Freeman considers it the noblest specimen of a class of churches
not uncommon in Wales, where massiveness of effect is produced
by simplicity of construction. It is reached by the bridge over the
Honddu, and on the way to it we pass part of the embattled wall of
the old priory. —About V2M. beyond the Llanfaes Bridge, crossing
the Usk, is Christ College, with a good E. E. chapel, formerly be-
longing to a Dominican priory. The house in the High St. in which
Mrs. Siddons (1755-1831) was born bears an appropriate tablet.
The Priory Walk, on the Honddu, and the Captain's Walk, on the
Usk, are two pleasantly shaded promenades.
An admirable view of Brecon and the Beacons is obtained from the top
of Pen-y-Crug, a hill I1/2 M. to the N.W. of the town. To reach it we turn
to the right beyond the Castle Hotel and pass the (V4M.) Cemetery. About
V2 M. farther on, a little beyond the milestone, we take a path leading
across a field to Pen-y-Crug Farm; passing through the farm-yard, we
reach the open hillside and in 10 min. more gain the top, where there
are distinct remains of an ancient camp. — Another good point of view
is Slwch Tump, on the E. side of the town, reached by following Free
St. from the station and passing under the line.
Another pleasant object for a short walk is afforded by the Frwdgrech
Waterfalls. We cross the Llanfaes Bridge (see above), at the S. end of the
town, and continue in a straight direction, along the Llandovery Road,
passing a toll-gate, to (Vs M.) a point where the road forks. We take the
branch to the left, which is lined with numerous holly and other trees
and leads to P/3 M.) Frwdgrech Lodge (on the left). Just beyond this we
cross a bridge, on the other side of which are three roads. We follow
that in the centre and reach ( 3/4 31.) the bridge crossing the stream which
forms the falls, one immediately below and the other a little above the
bridge. The falls are small, but their setting is pretty.
The twin peaks of the "Brecknock or Brecon Beacons, rising 5 M. to
the S. of Brecon, are the highest peaks in S. Wales, and among the most
gracefully-shaped mountains in the kingdom. The direct route from Brecon
to the top takes walkers 3-4 hrs., but driving is practicable to Blaengwdi
Farm (see p. 205). As far as (IV4 M.) the bridge beyond Frwdgrech Lodge,
 ;

to Swansea. BRECON. 26. Route. 205

see above. Here we take the road to the left and ascend to (l'/s M.)
Blaengwdi Farm. Beyond the farm we turn to the right, and 1/3 M. far-
ther on follow a narrow lane to the left, which brings ub to the W. part
of a_ shoulder extending to the (l'/2-2 hrs.) top of 'Pen-y-Fan (2910 ft.), the
loftier peak. —An alternative route from Brecon is the following. We
tarn to the left at the turnpike-gate, ^3 M. beyond the Llanfaes Bridge
(see p. 204), and follow the high-road, which is steep at first, to (2>/2 M.)
Pant Farm. Beyond the farm we turn to the right and pass through a
gate leading to the E. arm of the shoulder above mentioned. —
Many,
however, prefer to ascend from (14 M.) Torpantau, a station on the line
to Merthyr (see p. 194), on the S. side of the Beacons, and to descend by
one of the above routes. The Beacons, however, do not show to advan-
tage from the S., and the pleasantest part of this route is the descent. —
The 'View from the top includes the Black Mts. on the E., the Carmar-
then Van on the W. , and the Valley of the Usk and Llangorse Pool to
the If. In clear weather Cader Idris is sometimes visible to the N.W.
and the Bristol Channel to the S.
Among other points for easy excursions from Brecon are (6 M.) Llan-
gorse Pool (see p. 204), a great resort of anglers ; Y Caer Bannau, the old
Roman camp of Bannium, 2'/z M. to the W. ; and (9 M.) Bwlch, reached by
a beautiful walk or drive through the Usk valley, or from (7 M.) Taly-
bont station, on the Merthyr line (p. 194).
As the train leaves Brecon we have another beautiful view of
the Beacons and the Usk. 4072 M. Cradoc, 3/4 M. to the N. of Y
Caer Bannau (see above) 42 M. Aberbran.
; —
46*/2 M. Devynock
(Usk and Railway ; Pont Senny ; Bull), a pleasantly-situated village
at the confluence of the Senny and the Usk.
A very picturesque drive may be taken from Devynock to (1272 M.)
Llandovery (see p. 206), but there is no public conveyance. The road tra-
verses some of the prettiest scenery in South Wales, passing from the
valley of the Usk to that of the Towy. The chief place on the way is
(3 M.) Trecastle (Black Horse ; Three Horseshoes). Farther on, the road
winds through the romantic pass of Cwm Dwr, and near Llandovery it
crosses the little river Bran.
The train now turns to the S. and begins to ascend through a
bleak and wild valley. The Carmarthen Van rises to the right. Just
beyond (56!/2 M.) Penwyllt in the valley below us to the right,
,

lies Craig-y-Nos, the Welsh home of Adelina Patti (Mme. Nico-

lini), with a large winter-garden and a theatre. Near Penwyllt we
cross the watershed and begin the descent into the valley of the
Tawe, the beauty of which is marred by many signs of metallurgical
industry. — At (60 M.) Colbren Junction the line to Neath (p. 196)
diverges to the left. Farther on we have a retrospect of the Carmar-
then Van on the right. —
78 M. Swansea (Midland Stat.), see p. 197.

27. From Craven Arms to Llandrindod, Llandovery,

and Carmarthen.
84 M. Central Wales Railway (L.N.W.) in 3-4'/4 hrs. (fares 17s.
12«. 3d., Is. l /-id). —
Through-carriages run by this route, parts of which
are very picturesque, from Manchester and Liverpool to Swansea, and from
London to Tenby.
Craven Arms, see p. 180. —
i2 l /-2 Knighton (Norton Arms
Swan), a small town, 6V2 t0 the M
N of Pwteign (p. 203), the
- -

county-town of Radnorshire. Offds Dyke (p. 264) passes through

 206 Route 27. LLANDOVERY. From Craven Arms

Knighton. — At (15 M.) Knucklas we quit the valley of the Heme,

and near (19 M.) Llangunllo we cross the watershed (975 ft.) be-
tween that river and the Wye.
32 M. Llandrindod Wells (Rock House, 'pens'. 8s. 6i. Old
;

Pump House; Llanerch; Bridge; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), a pleasant

inland watering - place on the Ilhon, with chalybeate and saline
springs. Spa Grounds have been laid out adjoining the springs,
and there is a small lake for boating. The Ithon affords fair angling.
Fine view from the top of the Little Hill (850 ft.), to the E. of the
village. Drivesmay be taken to (10 M.) Cwmhir Abbey (Cistercian; 12th
Rhayader (p. 203), to (8 M.) Buillh (p. 203), etc.
cent.), to (12 M.)
Beyond Llandrindod the train descends to (37i/2 M.) Buillh
Road, where the line intersects the Mid-Wales Railway from Three
Cocks to Llanidloes (p. 203). For Builth Wells, see p. 203. —
Farther on the train crosses the Wye and begins again to ascend.
Just beyond (391/2 M.) Cilmery we pass the glen of Cwm Llewelyn
(p. 203). 441/2 M. Llangammarch Wells (Epynt House), with a
mineral spring.
48 M. Llanwrtyd Wells (Dol-y-Coed, at the Wells, 1 M. from
the station, 'pens'. 7-8s. Neuadd Arms, Bellevue in the village,
;

2 M. from the station; Askomel Arms, at the station), another

/3
prettily-situated little spa, with sulphur and chalybeate springs.
Excursions may he made to the top of the Sugar Loaf (1000 ft.) to ;

(5V2 M.) Abergwessin (Grouse Inn), with a handsome modern church; to

Twin Short Catti's Cave; to the Nanthir Ravine; and to numerous other
points in the picturesque environs.
The next bit of the route, as the train ascends to the water-
shed (830 ft.) between the Wye and Towy, is somewhat bleak and
uninteresting, but beyond the Sugar Loaf Tunnel (1000 yds. long)
we obtain a fine view towards the S. — 55 M. Cynghordy.
591/2 M. Llandovery (Castle, in the town ; North Western, at
the station), a small town on the Towy, with 2050 inhab. and the
insignificant remains of an old castle. The largest building is the
Welsh Collegiate Institute. Llandovery is a good centre for excur-
sions in the valleys of the Towy and the Bran.
The finest part of the s Vale of Towy is above Llandovery, and may
be enjoyed by walking or driving to (10 M.) Ystradffin, though walkers may
with advantage extend their explorations a few miles farther. Near
Ystradffin is Twm Shon Cattfs Cave. — The Carmarthen Van (2630 ft.),
a mountain second in height and interest among those of South Wales to
the Brecknock Beacons alone, may be ascended from Llandovery in 4-5 hrs.
A carriage may be taken to (9 M.) Blaenatt, a farm 4 M. from the top.
— From Llandovery to Devynock, see p. 205.
From (63i/ M.)Llanwrda a picturesque drive may be taken to
2
(I61/2 M.) Lampeter (p. 208), passing (8 M.) Pumpsaint and
Dolaucothie with remarkable caves, said to be the remains of
—
,

Roman gold-mines. 65 M. Llangadock (Red Lion) is another

starting-point for an ascent of the Carmarthen Van.
70 M. Llandilo (Cawdor Arms; Castle; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms),
a picturesquely-situated little town with 1600 inhab. , is a good
 to Carmarthen. CARMARTHEN. 27. Route. 207

centre for excursions. It is one of the three places where, accord-

ing to tradition, the miraculously multiplied body of St. Teilo was
buried. Our line here diverges to the right from the main line to
Llanelly and Swansea (see below). The town has given its name
to a slate formation well known as the 'Llandilo Flags'.
About IV2 M. to the W. of the town is Dynevor Castle, an interesting
Norman ruin in a beautiful park (keys kept by the head-gardener.) The
modern mansion is the residence of Lord Dynevor. The park begins
>/4 M. from the town. Spenser places the cave of Merlin 'amongst the
woody hills of Dinevowr', 'a little space from the swift Barry' ('Faery
Queene\ Hi. 3). — Excursions may also be made to Qrongar Hill (see below),
Golden Grove (see below), falley Abbey (a picturesquely situated ruin, 7'/2M.
to the N.), and Castell Carreg Cennen (a finely-placed ruined castle of the
end of the 14th cent., 4 M. to the E. ).
From Llandilo to Llanellt and Swansea, 25 M., railway in l-H/2 hr.
Most of the stations are unimportant. — 13 M. Pontardulais is the junction
for the line (G.W.R.) to (7 M.) Llanelli/ (p. 201). The Swansea line (L.N.W.)
keeps to the left bank of the Llwchwr estuary and crosses the S. Wales
main line at (17 M.) Gowerton, whence a branch runs to Penclamdd and
Llanmorlais (p. 199). 20 M. Killay (p. 199). From (22 M.) Mumbles Road
the line runs along Swansea Bay to (26 M.) Swansea (Victoria Station ; p. 197).
Beyond Llandilo the train continues to descend the Vale of
Towy. Dynevor Castle is seen to the right. To the left, near
(73 M.) Golden Qrove, is the mansion of that name, the seat of
the Earl of Cawdor, where Jeremy Taylor wrote several of his works.
The present house is, however, quite modern. To the N. rises
Qrongar Hill, the subject of the well-known poem by Dyer (A. 1758),
who was born at its foot.
Farther on we pass the ruins of Drysllwyn Caslle to the right.
,

83 M. Abergwili, with the palace of the Bishop of St. David's.

84 M. Carmarthen (*Ivy Bush ; Boar's Head ; Rail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), the county-town of Carmarthenshire, is an ancient place
with 10,500 inhab., on the Towy. It occupies the site of the Roman
Maridunum. The battlemented wall near the station forms part of
the County Gaol, which incorporates the remains of the old castle.
On the river, near the station, is the Parade Walk (reached from
Spilman St. by Parade Road), an esplanade commanding a good
view of 'winding Towy Merlin's fabled haunt'. Coracles (see
,

p. 174) may still frequently be seen on the river. —

At the end of
Spilman St. is the Church of St. Peter, a large and handsome Dec.
building, recently restored.
The interior contains some interesting monuments, among which may
be mentioned the altar-tomb of Sir Rhys-ap-Thomas (d. 1527) and his wife,
on the S. side of the chancel; the memorial of Lady Anne Vaughan, with
a curious inscription; the monument (near the S. door) of Bishop Farrar,
who was burned in the market-place under Queen Mary (1555); and the
modern tablet to 5ir Richard Steele, who is buried in the chapel at the
E. end of the S. aisle (see also p. 208).
On the W. side of the town are the County Lunatic Asylum,
the South Wales Training College, and an obelisk to General Picton
(d. 1815).
From the Parade a pretty walk known as Pond Side leads to the
(2 M.) Gmli river. We
may return by the Conwil road, or go on to Bron-
208 Route 27. LAMPETER.
wydd Arms Station (see below). — Another pleasant walk may be taken
to (2 M.) Llangunnor, on a lofty site overlooking the Vale of Towy. We
cross the bridge, follow the Llandilo road, keep to the left at P/2 M.) the
fork, and then ascend the (V3 M.) lane to the right. The 'White House'
of Llangunnor was the scene of Sir Richard Steele's death in 1729. —
Excursions may also be made from Carmarthen to Grongar Mill (p. 207),
Dynevor Castle (p. 207), and other places in the Towy valley.
From Carmarthen Junction (p. 201) to Swansea, Whitland (for Tenhy),
etc., see R. 25.
From Carmarthen to Abektstwith, 56 M., railway in 4 hrs. (fares
lis. 5<J., 8s. 3d., is. 8<f.). This line traverses an uninteresting district,
but it forms the most direct route from Swansea, Tenby, etc., to Aberyst-
with. As far as (15 M.) Pencader it belongs to the G. W. Railway, but
beyond that to the Manchester and Milford Railway, which derives its
name from its original conception as a link in a direct through-line from
Manchester to Milford. The carriages are poor, and the pace slow. — The
line diverges to the left from the railway to Llandovery and ascends the
pretty valley of the Owili. From (15 M.) Pencader the G.W.R. line runs
to (372 M.) Llandyssil (Porth Hotel; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), whence a
coach plies to Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan (see p. 202) and a car to
New Quay (p. 202). — At (I6V2 M.) New Quay Road we enter the valley
of the Teifi.
27 M. Lampeter ("Black Lion, unpretending, R. & A. 2s. 9d.), a clean
little agricultural town with 1500 inhab., owes much of its prosperity to
St. David's College, the oldest and largest of the Welsh colleges and the
only one with the right of granting degrees (B.A. and B.D.). It is now
attended by 150 students, and there is a school in connection with it for
100 boys. The library of 40,000 vols, is rich in theological, historical,
aud classical works, and contains some MSS. A large horse-fair is held at
Lampeter annually on May 8th. — There is a British Camp I1/2 M. from
Lampeter, and a Roman camp a little farther on. — A good road leads
to the W. from Lampeter to (13 M.) Aberayron (p. 202), and one to the
E. to (8V2 M.) Pumpsaint and (21 M.) Llandovery (p. 206).
To the left, at (29 M.) Derry Ormond, is a lofty view-tower on a hill.
About 12 M. to the S.E. of (34 M.) Pont Llanio is Llanddewi-Brefi, with
an interesting church, where St. David is said to have held a synod in the
6th cent, to take measures for checking the Pelagian heresy.
42 M. Strata Florida, the station for Strata Florida Abbey (12th
cent.), which lies 3 M. to the E. The Abbey, the name of which is a
Latinised form of Ystrad Ffl&r, or plain of the Fflur, is an almost effaced
ruin, with only one late-Norman arch remaining. Recent excavations have
laid bare the ground-plan and brought to light some fine pavements, tombs,
and other interesting architectural details. About 3 M. beyond the Abbey,
in a hollow amid bleak and desolate moorland, are the Teifi Pools, where
the Teiii takes its rise.
The train now crosses the watershed between the Teifi and the Tstwilh,
and descends into the prettily wooded valley of the latter. 50 M. Llanilar,
with an interesting church. As we approach Aberystwith we have a view
of the sea and town to the left.
56 M. Aberystwith, see p. 267.

28. From Whitland to Tenby and Pembroke.

27 M. Tenby and Pembroke Railway to (16 M.) Tenby in •/« hr.
(fares 3s. id., 2s. id., Is. id.); to (27 M.) Pembroke Dock in P/rP/t hr.
—
(fares 5s., 3s. 9d., 2s. 3>/2<2.). Through-carriages from London to Tenby
and Pembroke are attached to the morning-express from Paddington.
Whitland Junction, see p. 201. The train now enters Pem-
brokeshire, a county which has acquired the name of a 'Little
England beyond Wales' owing to the fact that it is mainly peopled
 ;

TENBY. 28. Route. 209

by the descendants of a colony of Flemings settled here by Henry 1.

(in 1107; comp. p. 198). To this day they have preserved their
distinctive character, and little or no Welsh is spoken in the county
to the S. of Haverfordwest. Visitors should also note the peculi-
arly massive church-towers that are characteristic of Pembroke-
shire and they will find much to interest them in its numerous
,

fine castles. So many 'Ogham' inscriptions have been found in

Pembrokeshire (on Caldy p. 208 at Treffgarne etc.) that it has
; ,
,

been supposed that this character originated here. —

5 M. Narberth
(Rutzen Arms), a small market-town with a ruined castle.
About 4 M. to the N.W. of Narberth is Llawhaden Castle,, long a
residence of the Bishops of St. David's. It owes its ruinous condition to
Bishop Barlow, who stripped the lead from its roof (1536-49). The chief
feature of the picturesque ruins is the gateway. —
Llawhaden Church is
also interesting.
12 M. Saundersfoot (Cambrian Hotel; Hean Castle), a little
seaport l 3/4 M. to the S. of the station (omn. 6<J.), is frequented as
a bathing-resort and has a good sandy beach. The environs are
picturesque and full of pleasant objects for excursions. On the way
from the station to the village is the interesting old Church of St. Jssel.
16 M. Tenby. — Hotels. "Royal Gate House, R. & A. 4»., D. is.
White Lion; Coburg, a comfortable family house; these three near each
other, with views of the sea. —
Tudor Temperance, in the centre of the
town. — Boarding Houses and Lodgings. —
Hotel omnibuses meet the trains.
Steamers ply in summer from Tenby to Bristol once weekly, and to
Ilfracombe and to Milford (fine view of the grand rock-bound coast) oc-
casionally. —
Rowing Boat with one man, Is. 6<J. per hr. ; 9<J. each addit.
V* hr. Sailing Boat, with two men, 2s. and Is.
;

Cab with one horse, first hour 2«. 6d. ; each addit. 1/4 hr. 6d. ; with
two horses 3s. and Vfad. ; per mile Is. or i». 6d. : each addit. Vz M. 6d. or 9d.
Tenby, a small town with about 5000 inhab., is finely placed
upon a bold rocky promontory, jutting out between two beautiful
sandy bays and towering to a considerable height above them. The
sands are smooth, firm, and extensive, the climate is mild and
equable, and the coast-scenery in the neighbourhood is of a high
order. Indeed, in many respects, Tenby is one of the pleasantest
seaside-resorts in the kingdom. The neighbourhood of Tenby is
'the prince of places for a naturalist', and even those who have no
claim to this title will find much to interest them in Mr. Gosse's
'Tenby: a Seaside Holiday'. George Eliot and Mr. Lewes lived
and worked here for some time in 1856.
The long and lofty wall, with its towers and gateways, known
as the 'Arches' and passed on the way from the railway-station, is
a remnant of the town-fortifications as strengthened to resist the
threatened attack of the Armada in 1588.
The Parish Church of St. Mary, in the principal street, is an
E.E. edifice (1256), with Perp. and modern alterations. Its chief
external feature is the lofty spire (150 ft).
The interior contains some interesting monuments, of which may be
mentioned the old tombs, with effigies, to the E. and W. of the N. door
(14th and 15th cent.) ; that of the wife of Thomas ap Rhys, In the N. aisle
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 14
210 Route 28. TENBY. From Whitland
of the chancel ; and that of Tliomas White (d. 1482), mayor of Tenby, who
helped the Earl of Richmond (Henry VII.) to escape after the battle of
Tewkesbury. A good effect is produced by the singular elevation of the
chancel above the rest of the church.
At the end of the headland on which the town lies are the in-
significant ruins of Tenby Castle and a Statue of Prince Albert. A
band plays here in summer, and the promenade affords a good view.
Here, too, is the Tenby Museum (adm. 6d.), with a collection illus-
trating the natural history (fine shells) and geology of the neigh-
bourhood, and containing some mementoes of the French landing
at Fishguard (p. 216). — The real geological ending of the pro-
montory is the detached St. Catharine's Rock, on which is mounted
a small battery. The coast on both sides is still defended by mar-
tello towers (p. 52).
The charming little cove to the N. of the point is known as
Tenby Bay, while the larger sweep to the S. is called the South
Sands. The fine rocky promontory that bounds the latter on the
S. is named Oiltar Point, and commands a splendid view of the
bold rocky coast to the W. and of the island of Caldy (lighthouse).
The direct route to it across the sands is l^M. long; but for the
sake of a gentler ascent we may approach from the landward by
following the railway as far as the Black Rock (at the bridge) and
then bearing to the left across Penally Burrows, leaving the village
of Penally to the right. — Tenby is the best headquarters for ex-
ploring the S. W. corner of "Wales, and a few of the favourite ex-
cursions are given below. Good walkers should visit a part at least
of the fine coast between Tenby and St. Gowan's Head.
From Tenby to Penally. By the path along the railway the distance
is about l'/4 M., by the road 2 M. The latter, the 'Marsh Road', runs
to the W. at first for about I1/4 M., and then ascends to the S. (left) past
a white farm-house. At the next fork we also keep to the left. Penally
(Crown Inri) , a pretty little village with a restored church containing
,

an altar-tomb of the 13th cent, and a Norman font, is one of the three
alleged burial-places of St. Teilo (see p. 207). — On the way to Penally
we may digress to visit the cave called Hoyle's Mouth (a light desirable).
We diverge from the road to the right Vi M. beyond the Marsh Bridge,
pass through the O/s M.) second gate on the left, and ascend by the in-
distinct path straight up (not the well-marked track to the left) to the
(1 min.) cave, the mouth of which is hidden among the trees.
Fkom Tenby to Saundersfoot, 3-4 M. Good walkers should go by
road and return by the cliffs ; the walk may be shortened by taking the
railway (p. 209). By Road. Just outside the town, walkers may save •/* M.
by following the old road to the right, which rejoins the new road about
1 M. from Tenby. After 1 M. more we keep to the right. — By the
Cliffs. We follow the path from the Gas-works to (1 M.) Waterwinch, and
then skirt the top of the cliffs. The best view is obtained from the high
ground at the base of the Monlstone Promontory, l'/4 M. beyond Waterwinch.
To Caeew Castle, 6V2-8V2 M. The shortest road (6 ! /2 M.) leads via
(l 3 /4 M.) Gumfreston, with an interesting church, but the pleasantest
(8'/2 M.) follows the Ridgeway, a range of low hills running parallel with
the railway from Penally to Pembroke. "Carew Castle (pron. Carey;
adm. 3d.) is a picturesque and fairly-preserved ruin, on a creek of Mil-
ford Haven. It is of different dates . the oldest part being apparently
that adjoining the gate-house (early 12th cent.). In the village (Carew
Inn; Castle Inn), near the castle -entrance, is an ancient Cross, 14 ft.
 to Milford. TENBY. 28. Route. 211

high, supposed to be Saxon or Danish. The Church, '/s M. to the 8., is

a Dec. structure, with a Perp. tower. The nearest railway-station is (4 M.)
Lamphey (see helow). — On the opposite bank of the creek on which Carew
stands is Upton Castle, a smaller and less interesting ruin.
Cuff Walk from Tenby to Lydstep Caverns and Manorbier, 8 M.
— Those who have already visited Giltar Point (p. 210) may save a little
by following the road to Lydstep , though the walk over the cliffs,
passing another bold headland named Proud Qiltar, is fine. By road we
pass through (2 M.) Penally (see p. 210) and continue to follow the
main (lower) road, passing P/3 M.) the Hut Barracks of a body of sol-
diers belonging to the garrison of Pembroke. Shortly before reaching
(l 3/4 M.) the village of Lydstep, some of the old cottages in which have
evidently seen better days, we have a fine view of the coast to the
left, with the lofty rocks at the W. end of Lydstep Bay, and Lydstep
House nestling among the trees in the corner. At the far end of the
village we turn to the left and descend to (3 min.) the lodge of Lydstep
House. Passing through the gate, we turn to the right over the grassy
hill, and almost immediately come in sight of Lydstep Cove, with a cottage
where light refreshments may be obtained in summer. The ^Caverns are
to the right and left of this cove; with the exception of the 'Smugglers'
Cave', which has a landward entrance, they are inaccessible except at low
water (see tide-tables in the 'Tenby Observer'). — We now make our way
to the top of the cliffs, and follow them to (3 M.) Manorbier. There is a
more or less distinct path nearly all the way, and stiles over the walls
and fences. The cliff formations are very fine, and the transition from
the limestone to old red sandstone Is well marked, On (i 3/« M.) Old
Castle Head is a clearly- defined cliff- castle. Beyond this we continue
to follow the shore-line, passing some curious Fissures in the cliffs, formed
by the falling in of caves, and finally descend past a Cromlech to (IV4 M.)
Marlbrbier Bay. On the left side of the cove, at a little distance from
the sea, stands 'Manorbier Castle (adm. 3d. ; when two flags are flying,
6d.), a large and good example of a feudal stronghold, dating chiefly
from the 12-14th centuries. The ruined tower adjoining the gate-house
and the square building with the large hall are supposed to be early
Norman. Part of it has been fitted up as a modern residence. Oiraldus
Cambrensis, the chronicler, born in the castle in 1146, was a member
of the De Barri family to which it then belonged. Manorbier Church, on
the opposite slope of the bay, is a curiously irregular building, with a
Norman nave. It contains a monument of the De Barri family (see above).
The village of Manorbier (Lion Hotel) lies above the castle, a little
more inland. — From Manorbier good walkers may continue their route
along the coast to (8 M.) Stackpole and (3 M.) St. Gowan's Head (see p. 212).
The railway-station of Manorbier (see below) lies 1M. to theN. of the village.
Excursion -brakes ply in summer from Tenby to (14 M.) Stackpole
Court, (I71/2 M) St. Gowan's Chapel, and (20i/2 M.) the Stack Socks (fare
5s. lid.), but these places may be more easily visited from Pembroke. —
Lamphey Palace (see below) may be reached by railway or by driving
along the Ridgeway (8 M.). — A boating excursion may be made to Caldy
Island (p. 210). — Other places of interest within easy reach are Narberth
Castle (p. 209), Llawhaden Castle (p. 209), Pembroke (p. 212), and Milford
Haven (p. 213), while St. David's (p. 214) may be visited by spending one
night there and taking the mail-cart (see p. 218).
As the train leaves Tenby we have a view to the left of Giltar
and Caldy Island. Beyond (17 M.) Penally (p. 210) the line runs
through an unattractive district, bounded on the N. by the Ridge-
way. 20 M. Manorbier; the village (see above) lies 1 M. to. the S.
— At (24 M.) Lamphey we may alight to visit the ruins of
Lamphey Palace (see below), a former residence of the Bishops of
St. David's, which lies a little to the N.
On leaving the station we turn to the left, and after 100 yds. reach
14*
212 Route 28. PEMBROKE. From Whitland
an iron swing-gate admitting to the grounds of Lamphey Court, in which
the ruins lie. We follow the path, which soon joins the drive, and pass
through (6 min.) an old archway, beyond which we have a lofty garden-
wall to our right. At the end of this is a gate to the right (not the
door in the wall), through which we pass and proceed to another gate,
admitting to the ivy-clad ruin. The principal remains are the Chapel,
with a good Perp. window, and the Hall, with an arcade like those at
Swansea Castle and St. David's Palace, all three being ascribed to Bishop
Gower (1335). — About IV2 M. to the S.E. of Lamphey station is Hod-
geston Church, the Dec. chancel of which is also said to have been built
by Bishop Gower.
25 1 /4 M. Pembroke (Lion; King's Arms, both near the castle),
a meanly-built town with about 10,000 inhab., consists mainly of
one street, upwards of Y2 M. long, with the railway-station at one
end and the castle at the other.
The *Castle (adm. 6d. key kept by the saddler nearly opposite
;

the Lion) is externally one of the finest ruins in "Wales. The interior
is extensive, but it is surpassed by Beaumaris in picturesqueness,
and by Carnarvon in magnificence of domestic arrangements. The
castle was originally built by Arnulf de Montgomery at the end of
the 11th cent., but the buildings of the outer ward were not added
till the 14th century. In the Civil War the Castle was taken by
Cromwell after a siege of six weeks. The Gateway, with its slen-
der flanking turrets, is very imposing as seen from the inside; and
the Great Hall has a fine roof. At the other end is the massive
and lofty Norman Keep, with a domed roof, which is still in good
preservation, except that the floors are gone. Climbers may ascend
the staircase with the aid of a rope, and will be repaid by the
*View from the top. From the hall a flight of steps descends to a
huge cavern in the living rock, one of the most striking features
of the castle. Henry VII. was born at Pembroke Castle in 1456. A
good view of the ivy-draped ruins is obtained from the bridge, on
the road to Pembroke Dock. A walk has also been formed round the
exterior of the castle, skirting the inlet of Milford Haven on which
it stands and passing the mouth of the above-mentioned cavern.
Monkton Priory, an ancient Norman structure on the hill oppo-
site the Castle, somewhat resembles Dorchester Abbey (p. 219).
The Dec. choir, now roofless, formed the monks' church. To reach
the priory from the castle we cross Monkton Bridge (to the S.) and
ascend to the right.
Pembroke is the nearest railway -station to Staclcpole Court, St. Gow-
aris Head, and the Stack Rocks (comp. p. 211). The total round, return-
ing by the direct road from the last, is about 17 M. Parties should take
luncheon with them, as no inns are passed. — From the station the
road leads to the S., passing St. Daniel's Church, on the top of the ridge,
to (3 M.) the entrance to the park of Stackpole Court, the seat of Earl
Cawdor, containing a few good pictures and a 'hirlas horn' (p. 288). The
house is not shown, hut the well-timbered park and fine gardens are
open to visitors. [A slight detour may he made, before the park is entered,
to Cheriton Church, which lies a little to the N.J Beyond the house our road
turns to the right, and then, 1 M. farther on, to the left. 1 M. Bosherston
Church, with an old cross in the churchyard. — About 1 M. to the S. of
Bosherston, and 7'/2 M. from Pembroke, is *St. Gowan's or St. Govan's
 to Milford. PEMBROKE. 28. Route. 213
Head, a bold limestone promontory rising 160 ft. above the sea. In a
narrow chasm by which the headland is intersected is perched St. Cowan's
Chapel, which tradition connects with the Arthurian knight Gawain. The
present chapel can scarcely be earlier than the 13th century. About 1 J3 M.
to the W. of St. Gowan's is the Huntsman's Leap, a deep and narrow fissure
in the cliff, which gets its name from having been cleared by a fox-hunter,
who, as the story goes, died of retrospective alarm A little farther on
—
!

is Bosherston Mere. The 'Stack Bocks, two columnar masses of lime-

stone, standing about a stone's throw from the mainland, are 2>/2 M.
farther to the W. Just on this side of them is the "Cauldron, a huge and
magnificent chasm, which the sea enters by a natural arch. In summer
the Stacks are covered with myriads of eligugs (a species of auk), puffins,
and other sea-birds. The whole of this part of the coast is fine, and good
pedestrians may follow the line of the cliffs to (8 M.) Angle, on Milford
Haven. All are recommended to go as far the Wash, an inlet 7z M. to
the W. of the Stacks. —
The direct road from the Stack Rocks to (6'/2 M.)
Pembroke leads by Warren and Monkton (see p. 212).
The road from Pembroke to (2 M.) Pembroke Dock (see below) crosses
the bridge on the N. side of the castle and runs in a N.W. direction.
From Pembroke excursions may also be made to Gareie, Lamphey,
Milford Haven, etc.

On leaving Pembroke we have a good view of the castle to the

left just before the train plunges into a tunnel. 27 M. Pembroke
Dock or Pater [Bush, not far from the station), a Philistine-looking
town with 8-10,000 inhab. , depends solely on its dockyard for
interest as well as existence. From the station we reach the ( J /) M.)
entrance by following the street leading to the main street and then
turning to the left. Visitors are conducted over the *Dockyard,
which covers 90 acres and employs 2-3000 men, by a policeman
(fee discretionary), but are allowed more time than at Portsmouth
or Plymouth; it is closed from 12 to 1.15 p.m.
Those who wish to cross to Milford Haven turn to the left on leaving
the dockyard and walk along the wall, passing a Hut Encampment, to
Hobbes Point (ferry 2d.).
A fine view of the beautiful *Milford Haven, the 'blessed Milford'' of
Imogen ('Cymbeline', iii. 2), is obtained from the Barrack Hill, at the
top of which is a fort. Comp. p. 203.

29. From Haverfordwest to St. David's.

16 M. Coach between St. David's and Haverfordwest thrice a week
(Tues., Thurs., and Sat.), leaving the former about 6.30 a. m. and the latter
about 4 p.m. (fare 2s. 6<Z., outside 2s.). A Mail-Cart also runs daily in
connection with the London mails (fare 5s. ; return 7». 6d.).
The road from Haverfordwest (p. 202) to St. David's traverses
a hilly, bleak, and somewhat uninteresting district. 4 M. Keeston
Hill (Inn). On a hill 1 M. to the right is Keeston Castle, an insigni-
ficant ruin. — 2 J /2 M. Roch Castle, a conspicuous ruined tower,
t/2 M. to the right of the road it was built in the 13th cent, by
;

Adam de Rupe. The deep valley which it overlooks forms the W.

boundary of 'Little England' (p. 208); beyond this we are again in
a purely Celtic district. We
now enjoy a good view of St. Bride's
Bay, while the retrospect is also fine. —From (2t/2 M.) Newgate
Bridge (Inn) the road skirts the coast nearly all the way to St. David's.
About 1^2 M. farther, to the left, is a tumulus marking the site of
 ;

214 Route 29. ST. DAVID'S. From Haverfordwest

Poyntz Castle, a moated grange of St. David's. —

2 M. Solva (Cam-
brian Hotel), a pretty little seaport at the mouth of trie Solva river.
16 M. St. David's (Grove, at the E. entrance to the city; *City,
to the N.), the ancient Menapia or Menevia, is situated on the brook
Alan, IV2M. from the sea, at the extreme W. point of the S.Welsh
peninsula, and in the midst of a strikingly desolate and out-of-the-
world district. It has been the seat of an episcopal see from the
6th cent., and is thus nominally a city, though in fact it is merely
an irregularly-built village with 1000 inhabitants.
A lane known as the 'Popples' leads from the centre of the vil-
lage to the main gateway of the Cathedral Close flanked by an
,

octagonal tower and a round bastion, beyond which we suddenly

obtain a *View of the Cathedral and its associated buildings, situ-
ated, like other Welsh cathedrals (see pp. 195, 286), in a hollow t.
The *Cathedral of St. David, the most important and inter-
esting church in Wales, is in its present form substantially a Trans-
itional Norman building (comp. though subsequent addi-
Introd.),
tions and alterations have stamped a Dec. character on its ex-
late
terior. The foundation of the see is ascribed to St. David, the
patron saint of W
ales, who is sometimes said to have been born among
the cliffs of St. Bride's Bay (p. 213), towards the close of the 5th
century. The church he erected has, however, completely disap-
peared. In 1180 Bishop Peter deLeia began to rebuild the cathedral
after it had 'beene often destroyed in former times by Danes and
other pyrats, and in his time was almost quite ruinated'. The tran-
septs and choir of Leia's church were destroyed by the fall of the
tower in 1220 and rebuilt between that date and 1250. The E. E.
Lady Chapel, completing the present ground-plan, was added in
1290-1328. Various alterations were made in the Dec. period by
Bishop Oower (1328-47; comp. pp. 216, 212), the 'Menevian
Wykeham' (comp. p. 77), who raised the walls of the aisles, in-
serted Dec. windows, and added a stage to the tower, the upper-
most story of which is Perp. (ca. 1520). The W. front was rebuilt
with little judgment at the end of last cent., but has, with the rest
of the edifice, been skilfully restored by Sir G. G. Scott (1862-78)
and his son. The Lady Chapel, however, is still roofless. —
Arch-
bishop Laud was Bishop of St. David's from 1621 to 1626, and Con-
nop Thirwall, the historian of Greece, from 1840 to 1874.
As a whole the Exterior is not very imposing, though considerable
variety of outline is given by the chapels at the E. end and the lofty
erection adjoining the N.E. transept. The S. side, with its porch, is
superior to the N. side, which is somewhat disfigured by heavy buttresses,
rendered needful by the unsafe condition of the walls. The principal
dimensions are as follows: total length 290 ft.; length of transepts 120 ft.
breadth across nave and aisles 70 ft. ; height of nave 46 ft. ; height of
tower 126 ft. English services are held on Sun. at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.

t Fentoifs 'Pembrokeshire' and the large work on St. David's Cathedral,

by the Rev. W. B. Jones (now Bishop of St. David's) nnd Mr. E. A. Free-
man, will be found at the Grove Hotel.
 to St. David's. ST. DAVID'S. 29. Route. 215
and on week-days at 8.30 a.m. and 4 p.m. ; Welsh services on Sun. at
9 a.m. and 6 p.m. and on Wed. at 7 p.m. We enter by the South Porch.
The 'Interior is much more richly decorated than the exterior, and
the predominant reddish colour of the stone produces a warm and pleas-
ing effect. The general effect of the Nave (1176-98) 'is extremely strik-
ing from the remarkable richness of the architecture, and especially
from its great multiplicity of parts characters sufficiently marked to
:

have been conspicuous anywhere, but which are the more strongly
forced on the eye from their utter contrast with the rugged and weather-
beaten aspect of the church without' (Jonet & Freeman). In this respect
it differs strongly from any other Norman nave in the country, and some
of the massive solemnity characteristic of a Norman interior has been
sacrificed to the desire for variety. The arrangement of the triforium
and clerestory is unusual, and their ornamentation very rich and varied.
The fret-work "Roof, added in the Perp. period (ca. 1500), harmonizes
wonderfully well with the Norman work below. The original builders
contemplated a vaulted roof, and the shafts to support it are still in situ.
From the aisles we enter the Tbansepts by Norman doorways in-
stead of arches. The W. walls of the transepts seem to be part of the
original church, while the rest dates from after the accident of 1220
(p. 214), with later alterations. They offer a good exhibition of 'a pe-
culiar form of incipient Gothic, found in this church and several others
in South Wales and the West of England.' In the N. transepts is the
Shrine of St. Garadoc (d. 1124).— Attached to the E. face of the N. tran-
sept is a singular building, originally erected after 1220 as a Chapel of
St. Thomas, and now used as the Chapter House and Vestry. It contains
a beautiful E. E. piscina. It is in three stories, the second and third
having been originally the chapter-house and the treasury.
The Lantern in the interior of the Tower is formed by four fine
Transitional arches, of which three are pointed and one (to the W.) cir-
cular. The roof is Decorated. The space below the tower forms the
greater part of the ritual Choib, which is separated from the nave by an
elaborate Rood Screen, erected by Bishop Gower (1328-47), who is buried
in one of its canopied recesses. The Stalls and Bishop's Throne date from
the second half of the 15th century.
To the E. of the ritual choir, and separated from by it by a wooden
parclose or screen, is the Pkesbytert (1220-1248), which is similar in gen-
eral style to the nave, except that the advance towards the E.E. style
is indicated by the substitution of pointed for circular arches. The E.
end contains two tiers of lancet windows, the lower of which are filled
with mosaics, by Salviati of Murano. On the N. side of the presbytery
is the Shrine of St. David (d. 601), an E.E. monument which may mark
his burial-place. Opposite is the monument of Bishop Anselm (d. 1247),
and in the middle that of Edmund Tudor (d. 1456), father of Henry VII.
Adjoining the presbytery on the E. is Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, a
good Perp. structure of the beginning of the 16th century. In its W.
wall, at the back of the high-altar, is a curious recess with a pierced
cross (also visible from the presbytery). Beneath this is an equal-armed
cross, in relief, which may be a relic of the church that preceded Bp. de
Leia's (see p. 214). The chapel is bounded on the E. by a solid wall,
and is entered from the aisles of the presbytery. It would seem that
the space between the E. end of the presbytery and the vestibule of the
Lady Chapel (see below) was open to the sky, until appropriated by Bishop
Vaughan for this chapel. It is obvious that the aisles of the presbytery
have also been lengthened towards the E.
The Lady Chapel (1290-1328), which has not yet been restored, is ap-
proached by a vestibule with a fan-vaulted roof. On the S. side of it is
the tomb of its founder, Bishop Martyn (d. 1328).

f
To the N. of the nave of the cathedral are the ruins of St.
Mary's College, built by Bishop Houghton (1362-89), the most pro-
minent feature being the tall slender tower of its chapel. The space
216 Route 30. ABINGDON. From London

between the college and the cathedral was occupied by a cloister

attached to the former. —
To the W. of the cathedral, on the op-
posite bank of the Alan, are the picturesque and extensive remains
of the *Episcopal Palace, built by Bishop Oower (p. 214) about
1347. The most prominent feature is the beautiful arcaded parapet,
of which we have already seen foreshadowings at Swansea (p. 197)
and Lamphey (p. 212). The Oreat Hall has a fine porch and rose-
window, and the Chapel also remains. The chief Domestic Apart-
ments are on the E. side of the quadrangle. The whole place stands
on a series of vaulted crypts. Mr. Freeman considers it to be alto-
gether unsurpassed by any existing English edifice of its own kind.
— The fortified Wall, enclosing the cathedral-precincts, is also
attributed to Bishop Gower, and may be traced throughout nearly
its whole extent. The only remaining gateway is mentioned at p. 214.
The Cliffs near St. David's, though not remarkable for their height,
are picturesque and varied in outline. Among the most interesting points
are St. David's Head (100 ft. above the sea), a spur of Cam Llidi, 2 l fe M.
to theN.W., cut off from the mainland by an ancient stone fortification;
the ruined Chapel of St. Non, the mother of St. David, due S. of the
city; and Capel Stinan (2 M. due W.), built by Bishop Vaughan (1509-22),
on the site of an ancient pilgrimage-chapel dedicated to St. Justinian, the
confessor of St. David. —
Off the coast lies the island of Ramsey, a great
resort of woodcocks in October. To the W. lie the Bishop and his Clerks,
a group of rocks of which Fenton ('History of Pembrokeshire', p. 126),
quoting George Owen (16th cent.), says that they 'preache deadly doctrine
to their winter audience, such poor seafaring men as are forcyd thether
by tempest; onlie in one thing they are to be commended, they keepe
residence better than the rest of the canons of that see are wont to do'.
On the coast, 16 M. to the N.E. of St. David's, is Fishguard (Com-
mercial; Oreat Western), a small town in a land-locked bay, near Strumble
Head, on which a French force of 1400 men landed in 1797, only to he
captured by the local militia. Goodwic, 1 M. from Fishguard, is a small
watering-place. The neighbourhood abounds in meinihirion, cromlechs,
crosses, and other antiquities. Coach from Fishguard to Haverfordwest,
see p. 202. From Fishguard we may continue our northward progress
along the coast to (7 M.) Newport (p. 202), Cardigan (p. 202), etc.

30. From London to Oxford.

a. Great Western Railway via Didcot.
63'/2 M. Railway from Paddington Station in l 3/4-3 hrs. (fares lis., 8s.
id., 5s. Si^d.; return 18s. 6d., 14s.).
This is the quickest route to Oxford.
From London to (53 M.) Didcot, see R. 15. The Oxford branch
here diverges to the right from the main line of the G.W.R., tra-
verses a fertile and pleasing district, and crosses the Thames (or
Isis~),of which many beautiful views are obtained. From (56 M.)
Culham with a training-college for schoolmasters a visit may be
, ,

paid to Dorchester (see p. 219). "We now recross the Isis, pass
Nuneham Park (p. 218), and once more cross the river. —
58V2 M.
liadley, with an interesting church.
Eadley is the junction of a line to (2y2 M.) Abingdon (Crown <£ Thistle,
Queen's), a town of 6600inhab., with a busy trade in corn. Few remains
are left of the Abbey, once of considerable importance, si. Helen's
Chnrch is a lar^e edifice, with a fine spire; and Christ's Hospital, an old
 to Oxford. HIGH WYCOMBE. 30. Route. 217
almshouse, has interesting features. Cumnor Ball (p. 239), 5 M. to the
N., was originally a seat of the Abbots of Abingdon.
Beyond Radley the train again crosses the Isis. Bagley Woods
are seen to the left, and farther on Iffley is passed on the right. As
we approach Oxford we have a fine view of the city, with its towers
and spires, to the right. — 63'/2 M. Oxford, see p. 223.

b. Great Western Railway via Maidenhead and High Wycombe.

63 M. Railway from Paddinglon Station in 3 hrs. (same fares as above).
From London to (24 M.) Maidenhead, see p. 106. The Oxford
line now turns to the N. The next stations are Cookham (with a
picturesque church; p. 221) and (29 M.J Bourne End, where a short
branch diverges on the left to Great Marlow (p. 221). —
30 M.
Woobum Oreen, with an interesting church; 31V2 M- Loudwater.
34y2 M. High Wycombe (Bed Lion; Falcon), a town with
6000 inhab. and manufactories of lace and beechwood-chairs. The
Parish Church is a large and handsome building.
About 2 M. to the N. lies ffughenden Manor, seat of the late Earl of
who is buried in the village-church.
Beaconsfield (d. 1881),
M. Prince's Risborough (George), a small town amid the
42*/2
Chiltem Hills, named from an old castle of the Black Prince, of
which no trace remains. On one of the hills is a curious old Cross,
cut in the turf, and said to a commemorate a victory of the Christian
Saxons over the Danes.
Branch-lines diverge from Risborough to (9 M. ; left) Watlington and
to (7 M. ; right) Aylesbury (George; Crown), the latter the county-town
of Buckinghamshire and a great agricultural centre, famous for its ducks
and milk. Waddesdon, a magnificent modern mansion, 6 M. to the N.W.,
is the seat of Baron Ferd. de Rothschild.
48 M. Thame (Spread Eagle), with an old church, where John
Hampden died in 1643. Near (56 M.) Wheatley is Cuddesden Palace,
the residence of the Bishop of Oxford. —
63 M. Oxford, see p. 223.

c. London and North Western Railway.

78 M. Railway from Euston Station in 2i/3-2 3/« hrs. (fares as above).
From London to (47 M.) Bletchley, see R. 36. The Oxford line
here diverges to the left from the main line. — 55 J /2 M. Verney
Junction.
From Vekney Junction to Banbdky, 22 M., railway in 50 min. (fares
3«. 9d.,2s. Gd., is. iOd.). The chief intermediate station is (17 M.) Bucking-
ham (White Mart; Swan), a lace-making town with 4000 inhabitants. Near
the town begins a magnificent avenue of elms, 2 M. long, leading to Stowe,
the princely seat of Earl Temple. Stowe formerly contained one of the
finest art-collections in the country, but was dismantled in 1848. The
pleasure-gardens, in the taste of last century, have been deservedly com-
memorated by Pope (no admittance). —
22 M. Banbury, see p. 240.
Another line runs from Verney Junction to Aylesbury (see above).
65!/2 M. Bicester (King's Arms), a small town with an old pri-
ory-church ; 72 M. Islip. — 78 M. Oxford, see p. 223.
 218

31. From Oxford to London by the Thames.

A by rowing-boat on tbe Thames between Oxford and London
trip
has now become quite a popular institution, and in fine weather is cor-
dially recommended to oarsmen. The scenery all the way is full of charm
and interest. From London Bridge to Oxford the distance is 112 M., but
this may be advantageously shortened to 96 M. or to 69 M. by beginning
or ending tbe river- excursion at Richmond or Windsor. With proper
precautions the trip is quite safe for practised oarsmen, and even for ladies;
tut a wide berth should be given to all mill-streams, weirs, and 'lashers'.
Boats may be hired from Salter, Timms, or Crissal, of Oxford, who
let boats specially for these excursions at rates varying from 30s. for a
,

canoe or skill" up to 51. for an eight-oared boat and 61. for a large four-
oared shallop. These charges are for one week (after which an extra sum
is paid for each day), and include the sending of the boat to London or
bringing it back from London. —
Steam and Electric Launches may also
be hired; and eight charging-stations for the latter have been established
between Caversham and Strand-on-the-Green.
Locks. There are 32 locks between Oxford and Richmond , at each
of which a charge of 3d. is made for pair-oared boats, 6<2. for four-oared
boats, and Is. 6d. for launches, tbe payment entitling the boat to repass
the same day without farther toll. When the gates are closed the atten-
tion of the lock-keeper is attracted by shouts of 'lock! lock!' Care should
be taken in the locks to keep the gunwale from catching on the side-
walls. At several of the locks there are inclined planes with rollers for
small boats.
Steamers. In summer a small steamer plies between Oxford and
Kingston, when the state of the water allows, taking two days in each
direction.
Inns. There are good hotels on the banks at frequent intervals, but
equally comfortable accommodation at much more moderate charges may
often be obtained at the inns a little way back from the river. When
ladies are of the party, and at popular holiday-seasons, accommodation
should be secured beforehand by letter or telegram. Those who prefer
to 'camp out' may hire tents mattresses, and ground-sheets from the
,

above-mentioned boat-owners, and also at various places in London. Heavy

luggage should be sent by rail, as there are many railway - stations
close to the river.
The following description is necessarily little more than a note of a
few of the chief places of interest passed on the way. Those who wish
more details are advised to purchase Taunt's Map and Guide to the Thames
(2s. Gd. ; cheap edition Is. illus. edit. 15s.), Reynold's Oarsman's and
,

Angler's Map of the Thames (Is. 6d., coloured 2s., mounted on cloth in
case 4s. &d.), or Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is.). The first is most
readily obtained by direct application to Taunt & Co. 9 Broad St., Ox-
,

ford. The words 'right' and 'left' (r. 1.) are here used with reference
,

to boats descending the river.

Among common sights on the Thames below Henley are Bouse Boats,
in which whole families sometimes find summer-quarters, while on the
banks and islands are often seen the tents of camping- out parties.
The start is usually made from one of the boat-builders' yards
close to Folly Bridge. On
the left are the College Barges, and the
mouth of the Cherwell. The straight reach from here to (2 M.) the
lock at Iffley, with its interesting church and mill (p. 239), is the
scene of the university boat-races.
3 M. (1.) Sandford (King's Arms), with a Norman church. A
little farther on, to the left, are the beautiful woods of *Nunehain
Courtenay (Col. Harcourt) , a favourite spot for picnics from Ox-
ford, and (teste Hawthorne) 'as perfect as anything earthly can be'.
 WALLINGFOKD. 31. Route. 219
On a small eminence in the park is a picturesque Conduit, which for-
merly stood at Carfax in Oxford. The avenues on the river-bank, afford-
ing views of Oxford, Radley, and Abingdon, were laid out by 'Capa-
1
bility Brown . Visitors are admitted to the park on Tues. and Thurs. after-
noons, by tickets obtained on written application to the steward; but may
land at any time on a portion of the bank reserved for the purpose.
The Thames now runs through flat meadows. 73/4 M. (r.)
Abingdon, see p. 216. — 10 M. Culham Lock, whence a bridge
with arches of four different shapes, leads to Sutton Courtney, on
the right. To the right of the following straight reach, between low
meadows, is a tree-crowned hill, known as Wittenham Clump; a
little farther on the church-spire of Appleford rises among the trees
on the right. About 1/2 M helow (13 M.) Clifton Lock is (1 .) Clifton
-

Hampden (Barley Mow) with a picturesque church and vicarage,

,

embosomed in trees.
16 M. Day's Lock, whence there is a pretty view, embracing
Sinodun Hill (r.), on which there is a Roman camp.
To the left is the small river Thame, about 1 M. from the mouth of
which lies Dorchester (Flew de Lyt; George, well spoken of), a village
with about 1200 inhab., not to be confounded with Dorchester in Dorset-
shire (p. 97). This now unimportant village was the seat of a bishop
(of Hercia) from the 7th cent, till after the Norman Conquest, when the
see was removed to Lincoln. An Augustine abbey was founded here in
1140. The -Abbey Church, which Mr. Freeman describes as 'a church of
the very rudest and meanest order, as far as outline and ground-plan are
concerned, developed to abbatial magnitude, and adorned with all the
magnificence that architecture can lavish upon individual features', dates
in its present form mainly from the close of the 13th cent., but also
comprises much earlier (Norman) and later work. It has lately been
restored. The fine 'Jesse' window of the chancel, with stone effigies of
the descendants of David, is interesting. Visitors to Dorchester are recom-
mended to leave their boat at Day's Lcck, as the Thame is not very
suitable for rowing.
Beyond Day's Lock the low banks are picturesquely wooded at
a little distance from the river. A
pretty retrospect of Dorchester
church is obtained just after the houses of Shillingford (1.) come
in sight in front. The Swan Inn, at the Berkshire (r.) end of
(I8V2 M.) Shillingford Bridge, is a favourite resort, often full.
20 M. Benson or Bensington Lock. The village (White Hart,
moderate) lies out of sight, on the left.
21 M. (r.) Wallingford (Lamb; Oeorge; Town Arms, unpre-
tending), an ancient town of 3000 inhab., with the remains of an
old castle. Sir William Blackstone (A. 1780), the eminent jurist,
is interred in St. Peter's Church. —
25 M. Moulsford (Beetle and
Wedge) is an angling resort. The trial eights of Oxford University
are rowed in the reach between this point and (26^2 M.) Cleeve Lock.
At (27 M. 1.) Goring (Miller of Mansfeld) and (r.) Streatley
;

(Bull ; Swan), two pretty villages united by a long bridge, one of

the most picturesque parts of the course of the Thames is reached,
extending beyond Mapledurdam (p. 220). Below Goring the Thames
Valley is crossed by a range of chalk-hills, and the banks are
thickly wooded.
 220 Route 31 HENLEY. From Oxford

31 V2 M. (r.) Pangboume (Elephant & Castle; George), a pictur-

esque little village opposite which lies Whitchurch -with an old
,
,

church containing several good brasses. A little farther down, on

the left bank, is Hardwick House. Opposite is Purley (not Horne
Tooke's; comp. p. 46).
33 V2 M. (1.) Mapledurham (Roebuck, on the right bank, 1 M.
below the lock), with Mapledurham House, a fine Elizabethan
mansion, the home of Pope's friend, Martha Blount.
38 M. (r.) Reading, see p. 106. Oarsmen making a stoppage
here should leave their boats at Caversham Bridge (Hotel), just
above the town, or at Caversham Lock, just below it. The Queen's
Hotel, Friar St. is the most easily accessible from the river.
,

41 M. Sonning (White Hart; French Horn), a delightful

(r.)
little village, with an ancient stone bridge. The church contains
some interesting brasses. At the islands a mile below Sonning, we
keep to the left. —
At Shiplake (1.), 1/2 M at> ove (43 V2 M Shiplake
-

Lock, is the church in which Tennyson was married.

44 M. (r.) Wargrave (George & Dragon; White Hart; Bull),
with a church containing a monument to Thomas
a resort of artists,
Day, author of 'Sandford and Merton'. The humorous sign-board
of the first-named inn painted by G. D. Leslie R. A., and J. E.
,
,

Hodgson, A. R. A., is now kept indoors.

47M. (1.) Henley (Red Lion; Angel; Royal; Catherine Wheel;
White Hart), the 'Mecca' of boating men, and also much frequent-
ed by anglers, is a well-built town of 4600 inhab., surrounded
with wooded heights. The famous regatta, which attracts many
thousands of visitors from London, usually takes place about the
beginning of July.
It was on a window at the 'Ked Lion' that Shenstone wrote his
famous lines:
'Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round,
Where'er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome at an inn'.
About 2 M. below Henley, on the left bank, is Qreenlands, the
residence of the Rt. Hon. W. H. Smith, M. P. — 49 M. Hambledon
Lock (Flower Pot).
51 M. (1.) Medmenham (*Ferry Boat, near the abbey), another
convenient halting-place for the night. The Abbey was founded at
the beginning of the 13th cent., but little of the old building now
remains. About a century ago it acquired some notoriety from its
connection with the so-called 'Medmenham Monks' of John Wilkes
and Francis Dashwood, a club or society which was popularly be-
lieved to extend its motto, 'Fay ce que voudras', to the wildest ex-
tremes of licence.
To the right, at (53 M.) Hurley Lock, is Lady Place, the resi-
dence of the Lord Lovelace who played so conspicuous a part in the
Revolution of 1688. Farther on, on the same bank, is Bisham
 to London. WINDSOR. 31. Route. 221

Abbey, in the Tudor style, originally a priory, but now a private

residence. Queen Elizabeth lived here for three years in the reign
of her sister Mary. Bisham Church is an interesting Norman structure.
55 M. (1.) Great Marlow (* Anglers; Crown; George & Dragon;
Greyhound; Railway, at the station), with 4730 inhab., a well-
known fishing - station , with a graceful suspension-bridge and a
lofty church-spire. One of the houses bears an inscription recording
that Shelley lived in it in 1817 his 'Revolt of Islam' was composed
;

partly in his boat on the Thames and partly during walks in the
neighbouring woods. A regatta is held here every two years, alter-
nating with Maidenhead. The Quarry Woods (r.), just below Mar-
low, are a favourite spot for camping -out parties (permission
necessary). — Passing Bourne End (p. 217), on the left, we now
soon reach (59 M.; r.) Cookham (Ferry; King's Arms; Bel & Dra-
gon), one of the most picturesque villages on the Thames with ,

good fishing (perch, pike, roach) and a favourite pool for bathing.
1. *Clieveden, the seat of the Duke of Westminster, charmingly

situated amid rocks and hanging woods (visitors admitted to the

grounds, during the absence of the family, on application to the
head-gardener). A little to the E. is Dropmore, the beautiful
grounds of which (open daily, except Sun.) contain some magni-
ficent pines, the largest araucaria in England, and other fine trees.
The next part of the river is unsurpassed for quiet loveliness.
62 M. (r.) Maidenhead (*Ray Mead, near the river; Lewis's,
well spoken of; Bear; New Thames, R. & A. from 3*. 6d., B. 2s.-
2s. 6d., D. from 4s.), a small town with 8200 inhab., is a con-
venient place for passing the night. The Thames is here crossed
by two bridges. Nearly opposite is the pretty village of Taplow
(Orkney Arms).
64 M. (r.) Bray (George), with a large church, containing some
excellent brasses.
The famous 'Vicar of Bray' is said to have hcen Simon Aleyn (d.
1588), who lived in the reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and
Elizabeth, and thrice changed his creed. Other authorities maintain that
the 'Bray' of the song is in Ireland. — Near Bray is 'Ockwells, a fine
specimen of a timhered manor-house (15th cent.), with an interesting
interior.

On Monkey Island, where the stream is very swift, is an inn,

frequented by anglers. Numerous countTy-houses on both banks. —
67 M. Boveney Lock, l 1 ^ M. beyond which lie Eton (left) and —
69 M. (r.) Windsor (* White Hart, Castle, High St.; Bridge House
Hotel, near the bridge on the N. bank; Christopher, at Eton), a
town with 19,000 inhab., well-known as the ancestral residence of
the English sovereigns. A detailed description of Windsor, Windsor
Castle, and Eton is given in Baedeker's London. The best scenery
on the Thames lies between Oxford and Windsor, and many tourists
begin or end the excursion here (boat-charges Vs'Ve less).
Rounding the next bend, we pass under the Victoria Bridge,
222 Route 31. OHERTSEY.
M. (l.j Datchet (Manor House; Royal Stag), the scene of
70</2
Sir John Falstaff's unpleasant experiences at the hands of the 'Merry
Wives of Windsor'. It is a favourite haunt of anglers. Beyond the
(71 M.) Albert Bridge, the next bend is avoided by means of a 'cut'
rejoining the river at (72 M.) Old Windsor Lock, with waterworks
for supplying Windsor Castle. A little farther down is the (r.)
Bells of Ouseley Inn, noted for its ale and about 3/4 M. farther on
;

is Magna Charta Island, where King John signed the charter the ;

little house is said to cover the very stone that served him for a
table. Opposite (1.) rises Cooper s Hill, with a well-known military
engineering college and the Holloway College (for ladies); below
it is the famous field of Runnimede, where the Barons encamped

in 1215.
76 M. (1.) Staines (Angel; Pack Horse), with a substantial
granite bridge. — 78 M. Penton Hook Lock, with a somewhat
dangerous weir. — A little farther down, on the left, is Laleham,
where Dr. Thomas Arnold lived before he became headmaster of
Rngby. Matthew Arnold (d. 1888) is buried in Laleham church
yard. About 1 M. to the N.W. of the station is St. Anne's Hill
(view) with the summer residence of Charles James Fox.
,

79y2 M. (r.) Chertsey (Bridge; Crown; Swan), a small town

with 7800 inhab., Y2 M. from the river, which is here crossed by a
bridge. Scanty remains of the old abbey still exist, and the house
in which Cowley the poet died in 1667 is marked by an inscription.
82 M. Shepperton Lock opposite which, at the mouth of the
,

Wey, is (r.) Weybridge (see p. 65), with a Roman Catholic chapel

in which Louis Philippe (d. 1850) was interred. Shepperton
(Anchor) and Halliford (*Ship Red Lion), lie on the left bank.
;

To the right is the Oatlands Park Hotel, between which and

London a coach plies in summer.
84 / 2 M. (r.) Walton- on- Thames (Angler; Swan).
[

85 72 M. (1.) Sunbury (*Magpie; Flower Pot), with a lock.

87 /a ^- 0-3 Hampton (Lion), 1 M. from Hampton Court Palace.
l

On the opposite bank is Oarrick's Villa, where the famous actor lived
from 1754 till his death in 1779. Then (88i/2 M.) Moulsey Lock
and Hampton Court Bridge, beyond which the river makes a wide
bend, skirting Hampton Court Park (see Baedeker's London), on
the left, and Thames Ditton (Swan) and Surbiton on the right.
9i 1 / 2 M. (r.) Kingston (Sun Griffin Southampton), a town with
; ;

20,000 inhab. (see Baedeker's London). The river is crossed here

by a bridge with five arches.
93 M. (1.) Teddington. Here we pass the last lock. An almost
unbroken line of villas extends hence to (1.) Twickenham (see Bae-
deker's London), opposite Eel Pie Island. Then on the Tight ap-
pears Richmond Hill, with the Star and Garter Hotel.
96 M. Richmond Bridge. For a description of the Thames hence
to (112 M.) London Bridge, see Baedeker's London.
 .. . .

\.JslwwUiui Muspwn
Z.Bodieian Library
ZJRotoodcal Gardens
Church.es .

* Cathedi-al
.

6. S* Marys
7 . i? Mary Magdalen.
8,tf2firhaels'
9 St Peter in the East
.

XO.Clarendorv Buildings 3i J>rvrnity School

CoUee*es. 32. Hertford CoU.
lLJRSmds Coll. 33^tartyrs Memorial
ttJalaol&Tl. 3*. Post Off.
KiJtrazenose Coll. 3 ^Radeliffe httuTnary
l<r. Christ Church CoU. Colleges. 36. " Library
15 Carpus Christi, CoU
. ts.Or'utl Coll. C.4. 37. Shdlban Ball
lQE.reter CoU. Zb.Fembroke CoU,. B*. 38. StJIaryffall
17..Jesus Coil. 25. thorns CbW D.3. 39. Taylor {jLst.
W.Xebls CoU. Zb.&Johnls CoU,. C.2. 40. Theatre
mJlutcobv CoU 27 Trinity
. CoU.. C.2. kl.TowriKaU
ZQJbxgdalen, CoU. 28. University Coll. C.3.4>. *2. University Galleries
ZLXerton, CoU ZS.Wddham, CoU. C.2.3. *3. '
Ibisemtv
ZUVerr CoU. 30. Worcester CoU,. B.2. t*. " " Press
S. Mrrn.rfiol,! C0U£8&
B
Wagiinr/. L)pVw^'Genri i
E stAb'.Leipsir
 ;
;

223

32. Oxford.
Railway Stations. stations of the London & North Western and
The
Ch'eat Western Railways near each other, on the W. side of the town.
lie
— The principal hotels send omnibuses to meet the trains.
Hotels. "Randolph Hotel, Beaumont St., near the Martyrs' Memo-
rial; Clarendon, Cornmarket St.; Mitke, High St., an old-fashioned house.
Charges at these: K. 2s. 6d.-3*., B. JU. 6d.-2s. 6d., D. 3-5s., A. 1j. 6d. —
Second class: King's Arms, at the corner of Park St. and Holywell St.;
•Roebuck, 'Golden Cross, George, Cornmarket St. ; Railway; Wilber-
fobce Temperance, Queen St. —Lodgings easily procurable, especially
'out of term'. The charges of hotels and lodgings are raised in 'Com-
memoration' and 'Eights Week' (p. 227).
Restaurants. The Queen, Queen St.; Boffin, Horn, High St. (Nos. 107,
142) ; The Grill ; Boffin, at the N. end of St. Aldate's St.— Confectioners.
Boffin, Horn, see above.
Photographs. Hills & Saunders, Cornmarket St., opposite the Claren-
don Hotel; Taunt & Co., 9 Broad St.; Gillman, 107 St. Aldate's St.
Post Office (PI. 34; B, C, 3), St. Aldate's S*.., near Carfax.
Tramways. 1. From the Railway Station to Carfax (Id.), and thence
over Magdalen Bridge (id. from Carfax) to the cricket-grounds at Cowley
(3d.). —2. From Carfax to the Corn Market, whence one branch leads to
a point near Medley Lock (where the 'Upper River' begins; fare 2d.), an-
other to Summertown. — 3. From Carfax, past Christ Church and over
Folly Bridge, to New Hinksey (fare Id.).
Cab for not exceeding l>/« 31., for 1 pers. Is, each addit. pers. 6d.
for each addit. Vz M. 6d. for each pers. ; from the stations to the town,
2 pers., 1*. 6d. ; per hour for 1-2 pers. 2*. 6d., each addit. pers. 6d. Fare
and a half between midnight and 6 a.m. Luggage up to 112 lbs. free.
Guides, lj. per hour, are of little use.
Boats may be hired on the Isis, for the 'Lower River' at Christ Church
Meadow (p. 229) and for the 'Upper River' at Medley Lock (see above). The
latter is frequented mainly by the less serious oarsman and the votary
of 'centre-boarding' (sailing), while the lower river is left to those in
training for the races. The Cherwell is also available for boating. The
course where all the college-races are decided extends from Iffley (p. 239) to
the College Barges, which are moored to the bank at Christchurch Meadow.
The principal races (the 'Eights') are rowed in the middle of the summer
term; the 'Torpids' in the Lent term.
Baths. Turkish Baths, Merton St. (2s. 6d. ; swimming-bath 1*.); Hot and
Cold Baths (6d.) at the Racquet Courts, Holywell, and Museum Terrace.
— River Baths University Bathing Place, on the Isis, near Clasper's Boat
:

House (towels 3d.); on the Cherwell, near the Parks (towels 6d.).
Principal Attractions. Christ Church (p. 227) ; Merton College (p. 229)
Christ Church Meadow (p. 229); Broad Walk (p. 229); St. Mary's Church
(p. 230); Radcliffe Library (p. 230) and view from the top; Bodleian Li-
brary (p. 230); Divinity School (p. 231); Theatre (p. 231); University Musevm
(p. 232); Taylorian Institute (p. 236); New College (p. 232); Magdalen College
(p. 233), with its beautiful grounds; Balliol College (p. 236); All Souls
College (p. 235); Exeter College (p. 235), with its garden; St. John's College
(p. 236), with its gardens; gardens of Worcester, Wadham, and Trinity
Colleges (pp. 237, 232, 236). A college-chapel service should be attended at
New College, Magdalen, or Christ Church; and the visitor should also see a
boat-race and a cricket or football match in the Parks. The 'Procession of
Boats' on the Mon. of Commemoration Week (p. 227) is a highly charac-
teristic sight. Visitors may wander at will about the colleges and college-
gardens. The chapels are generally open for 2 hrs. in the forenoon and 2 hrs.
in the afternoon, and admission to them when closed, as well as to the
halls and libraries, may be obtained on application to the porter (small fee).

Oxford, with 40,862 inhab., the county-town of Oxfordshire,

an episcopal see, and the seat of one of the most ancient and cele-
224 Route 32, OXFORD. History.

brated universities in Europe, is situated amid picturesque environs

at the confluence of the Cherwell and the Thames (often called in
its upper course the Isis). It is surrounded by an amphitheatre of
gentle hills, the tops of which command a fine view of the city,
with its domes and towers. Oxford is on the whole more attractive
than Cambridge to the ordinary visitor who should therefore visit
,

Cambridge first, or omit it altogether if he cannot visit both.

Oxford (called Oxeneford in Domesday Book, but possibly a corrup-
tion of Ousenford, or ford over the Ouse or water) is a town of some
antiquity, the nucleus of which seems to have been the nunnery of St.
Frideswide, established on the site of the present cathedral, probably in
the 8th century. The earliest documentary occurrence of the name Oxford
is in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle under the year 912. In the 11th cent,
the town was a place of military importance and the scene of several
meetings of the Witenagemot. The foundation of the University is popu-
larly ascribed to King Alfred in 972, but this story may be dismissed as
entirely apocryphal. The first gathering of masters and scholars, not
attached to monastic establishments, took place in the 12th cent., while
it was not till the following cent, that anything like colleges in the
modern meaning of the word — i.e. endowed and incorporated bodies of
masters and students within the University —
came into existence (comp.
below). We first hear of theological lectures about 1130, and of legal
studies a little later (but both of these are doubtful); while by the be-
ginning of the 13th cent. Oxford ranked with the most important univer-
sities of Europe. About this period the University seems to have been at
times attended by as many as 3000 students, but during the religious
troubles of the reign of Henry VIII. the number fell to 1000. During the
Civil War Oxford was the headquarters of the Royalists, and the colleges
loyally devoted their plate to the King's service. Since then the history
of the town has been blended with that of the University, which in turn
connects itself by a thousand links with the intellectual and moral devel-
opment of England. It is impossible here to enter into detail, but a re-
minder may be s;iven of the 'Methodist Movement' of 1729-35 and the 'Trac-
tarian Movement' of 1833-45. — The old 'Town and Gown Riots', of which
the most serious (in 1354) resulted in the death of fifty students, are now
practically things of the past.
'The world, surely, has not another place like Oxford; it is a despair
to see such a place and ever to leave it, for it would take a lifetime
and more than one, to comprehend and enjoy it satisfactorily' (Nat.
Hawthorne). — Comp. Maxwell Lyte^s excellent 'History of the University of
Oxford' (1887), Boase's 'Oxford' ('Historic Towns Series'; 1887), BrodricVs
short 'History of Oxford' (1886), or Andrew Lang's 'Oxford' (1890).
The universities of Oxford and Cambridge (see p. 431) have preserved
so many of their mediteval institutions unaltered, and differ so materially
from the other universities of Great Britain, as well as from those in
Continental Europe and America, that a short account of their constitu-
tions and position will, perhaps, not be out of place.
Each of the sister-universities is composed of a number of independent
Colleges and Balls, of which Oxford now possesses twenty-four and Cam-
bridge nineteen. The germ of these colleges, which are an institution now
peculiar to England, is found in the 'hostels', 'inns', or 'halls', in which
at an early period the students combined to obtain the services of a
common teacher (comp. above). Many of the colleges have been richly
endowed by kings and private persons; the halls differ mainly in being
smaller, poorer, and unincorporated. The government of each university
consists in the last resort of the entire body of graduates who have kept
their names on the university registers, which is called the Senate at Cam-
bridge and Convocation at Oxford. Proposals or statutes are, however, in
the first instance brought before a small representative Council (called at
Oxford the Hebdomadal Council, at Cambridge the Council of the Senate),
 ;

History. OXFORD. 32. Route. 225

consisting of the chief university officials, a few heads of colleges, and
some senior members of Senate or Convocation. At Oxford the measures,
before being submitted to Convocation, must receive the approval of
Congregation, which consists of the officials and resident members of
Convocation. Corresponding to this at Cambridge is the Electoral Roll,
the function of which is to elect the Council of the Senate. The prin-
cipal executive officials are the Chancellor, elected by the Senate and
Convocation, and the Vice- Chancellor, who at Oxford is nominated from the
mumber of the heads of colleges by the Chancellor, while at Cambridge
he is elected by the Senate. The former is a person of royal blood or a
"nobleman of high rank and reputation, while the duties of the office are
performed by the Vice-Chancellor. The Proctors are two officers selected
from the different colleges in rotation to preserve order among the students
they are aided by four pro-proctors and a number of subordinate officials,
popularly known as Bull-dogs. The internal affairs of each college are
managed by a Head, who bears the title of Master, Principal, Provost,
Warden, Rector, or President (at Christ Church, Dean). He is assisted by
fellows, who are selected from the most distinguished Graduates and
have the Tight to elect the Head. It is not generally necessary that the
Fellows should have been students of the college in which they obtain
their fellowships, though at Cambridge this is usual. The Fellows and Tu-
tors are colloquially known as Dons.
The Undergraduates, or students, now live either in one of the colleges,
where two or more rooms are assigned to each, or in private lodgings in
the town, approved by the university authorities. They dine together in
the college-halls, attend service in the college-chapels on Sundays and
several times during the week (except those who have conscientious
scruples), and are not allowed to remain out beyond midnight without
special reason. The 'Non-Collegiate Students', i.e. students of the Univer-
sity, not members of a college, who live in lodgings in the town, now
form about Vi2th of the whole number of undergraduates. At lectures,
dinner, and chapel, throughout the day on Sundays (at Cambridge), and
after dark on other days, the undergraduates are supposed to wear an
academical costume, consisting of a black (or dark-blue) gown and a
curious square cap known as a 'trencher' or 'mortar-board'. The Bachelors
and Masters of Arts also wear an academical dress, differing in some details
from that of the students, while Doctors, on state occasions, are resplen-
dent in robes of scarlet and other brilliant hues. At the services on Sun-
days, festivals, and the eves of festivals, Cambridge graduates and under-
graduates wear white surplices instead of their black gowns. At Oxford,
while Christ Church and Keble follow the Cambridge practice, the use
of the surplice is generally restricted to the Heads, Fellows, and Scholars.
The chief subjects taught at Oxford and Cambridge include ancient
languages, mathematics, philosophy, history, theology, law, medicine, and
natural science. The university year is divided into four 'terms' at Ox-
ford and three at Cambridge, and does not include much more than half
of the calendar year. At Oxford all students, who have not previously
passed an equivalent examination, have to present themselves at latest
after one year of residence for 'Responsions' (in student parlance, 'Smalls'),
an examination in classics and elementary mathematics, entitling them to
continue their studies for a degree. The corresponding examination at
Cambridge is called the Previous Examination (vulgo 'Little-go'). These
are followed by the first Public Examination or 'Moderations' at Oxford
and by the General Examination at Cambridge. The subjects are classics,
mathematics of a somewhat more advanced character, and the Greek New
Testament, to which Cambridge has recently added English history and
an English essay. The pass examination for the ordinary degree of
Bachelor of Arts (B.A.) takes place at the end of the third year of resi-
dence. At Cambridge it consists of a special examination in one of sev-
eral specified branches of study at the option of the candidate. At Ox-
ford the candidate for the ordinary degree is examined in three selected
subjects from the following groups: (1) Greek and Roman history and
philosophy (in the original languages); (2) English, Modern Languages,
Baedekeb'3 Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 15
226 Route :}-J. OXFORD. University Regulations.

Political Economy, and Law; (3) Geometry, Mechanics, Chemistry, and

Physics; (4) Scriptural and Theological Subjects. One of the selected
subjects must lie either ancient philosophy and history, or a modern
language (French or German). Those students, however, who desire to
distinguish themselves in their academical career are not content to take
1
merely the ordinary 'pass degree ('poll' at Cambridge; Greek, ol tioMoI),
hut proceed to the 'Honours' examination. At Oxford|honours may be taken
in any one of eight 'schools': Literae Humaniores (including classics, ancient
history, and philosophy), Modern History, Jurisprudence, Natural Science,
Mathematics, Oriental (Indian or Semitic) Subjects, Theology, and Modern
Languages and Literature. Successful candidates are placed in four classes
according to the position they attain, and it requires a very high standard
of scholarship to obtain a 'first'. The highest prestige attaches to those who
have obtained a first-class in Literae Humaniores. At Cambridge the hon-
our-degrees are obtained in a similar manner, ten 'Triposes' taking the
place of the Oxford 'Schools'. The greatest interest centres in the exam-
ination for mathematical honours, where the successful candidates in
the earlier parts of the examinations are arranged in a 'Tripos', of three
classes, called respectively Wranglers, Senior Optimes, and Junior Opti-
mes. The first man in the examination is named the Senior Wrangler.
There is a farther examination for which only high wranglers ever enter.
Bachelors of Arts who have paid all the requisite dues and fees become
Masters of Arts (M.A.) after three years, and are thenceforth entitled to
a vote in the University Convocation or Senate. Both universities also confer
the degrees of Bachelor and Doctor of Medicine, Law, Theology, and Music.
The system of teaching at Oxford and Cambridge differs from that of
most other universities in the- practically subordinate position occupied by
professorial lectures, which in most cases stand practically out of all
relation to the general studies of the undergraduates. Professorial teach-
ing is, however, beginning to be more highly valued. The teaching func-
tions of the colleges were formerly confined to the preparation of their
own students by tuition for the examinations but now most of the Honours
;

Lectures given by colleges are open to all members of the University.

Most of the Fellowships, generally ranging from 2002. to 300?. a year, were
formerly granted for life, provided the holder remained unmarried and
took holy orders. Now, however, they are of two kinds, some ('Prize'
Fellowships) being held for 6-7 years and without restriction as to mar-
riage, residence, or profession; while the tenure of others is conditional
on the performance of tutorial or other college work. There are also
numerous Scholarships for undergraduates, varying in value from 302. to
1202., with free rooms. Some of the colleges are extremely wealthy, such
as Trinity College at Cambridge (p. 436), and Christ Church and Magdalen
at Oxford (pp. 227, 233). The total revenue of Oxford University and
Colleges is upwards of 400,000/. , and that of Cambridge about 250,0002.
Oxford has in its gift 450 ecclesiastical livings (value 190,0002.), and Cam-
bridge 370 livings (value upwards of 100,0002.). The number of students at
each college or hall varies from 12-20 to 600 (Trinity College, Cambridge).
Oxford and Cambridge are the most aristocratic universities of Great
Britain, and the cost of living is higher than at any of the others. From
1502. to 2002. may be taken as the rate per annum at which a resident
undergraduate may live at either university with comfort, though some
have been known to confine their expenses to 1002. Non-collegiate students
in private lodgings can, of course, live more cheaply, and a few colleges
(such as Keble at Oxford and Selwyn at Cambridge) make a special point
of economy. The number of student-clubs is legion, including associations
for all kinds of athletic sports, gymnastics, music, theatricals, whist,
chess, and various scientific pursuits. The most important institution
of the kind at each university is the Union Debating Society (pp. 237,
437). The well-known annual boat-race between the sister-universities
is described in Baedeker's London, and the inter-university cricket-match
excites scarcely less interest. Both universities possess volunteer rifle-
corps. The best time for a visit to either university is the week at the end
of the summer term, when thousands of visitors flock to see the degrees
 ;

Christ Church. OXFORD. 32. Route. 227

conferred and enjoy the hospitality of the colleges. This period of mingled
work and play (the latter predominating) is named Commemoration or
the Encaenia at Oxford, and Commencement or the May Week (bo called,
though held in June) at Cambridge. Another pleasant time for a visit is
the 'Eights Week'', in the middle of the same term , when the principal
college cricket-matches and boat-races are held. The visitor should avoid
the vacations at Christmas, at Easter, and in summer ; the last, known as
the 'Long', extends from June to the beginning of October. It is almost
1
needless to add that an introduction to a 'Don will add greatly to the
visitor's pleasure and profit.
Details about the inner arrangements of the colleges and daily life
of the undergraduates will be most easily found in the Student's Hand-
books to the Universities, Dickens's Dictionaries of Oxford and Cambridge
(U. each), or the University Calendars.
Oxford contains 21 colleges and 3 halls, with about 50 pro-
fessors, 30 readers or lecturers, numerous tutors and fellows, and
3000 students. As the railway-stations lie in the least attractive
part of the town, the visitor should drive at once, by omnibus or
cab, passing the Castle (p. 238), to Christ Church, with which a
round of sight-seeing is conveniently begun.
*Christ Church (PI. 14; C, 4), known among its own members
as the 'House' (Md.es Christi), was founded by Card. Wolsey in 1525,
on the site of a nunnery of the 8th cent. (comp. p. 224), and was
renewed by Henry VIII. in 1546. It is one of the largest and most
fashionable colleges in Oxford, and is attended by 250-300 under-
graduates. The 'Fellows' are here called 'Students'. The handsome
gateway, called Tom Oate, was begun by Wolsey, but the upper
part of the tower was added by Wren in 1682. The bell ('Great
Tom') in the latter weighs 7^2 tons, and every night at five minutes
past nine it peals a curfew of 101 strokes, indicating the number
of students on the foundation. The Great Quadrangle, or Tom
Quad, is the largest and most imposing in Oxford.
In the S.B. corner is the fine fan-vaulted entrance to the 'Hall (adm.
2d.), a beautiful room with a ceiling of carved oak, 115 ft. long, 40 ft.
wide, and 50 ft. high. It contains numerous good portraits, including
those of Wolsey and Henry VIII. by Holbein, Queen Elizabeth by Zucchero,
John Locke by Lely, Gladstone by Millaix, two by Gainsborough, and three
by Reynolds. Good old glass in the S. oriel window.— The Kitchen (small
fee to the cook), the oldest part of Wolsey's building, is an interesting
specimen of an old English kitchen ; it is reached by a staircase descend-
ing from the door of the hall.
The "Cathedral (PI. 4) of the diocese of Oxford, originally the
church of the priory of St. Frideswide (p. 224), serves at the same
time as the chapel of Christ Church. In its present form it is
mainly a late-Norman or Transitional building of the second half
of the 12th century. The Lady Chapel was added in the 13th,
and the Latin Chapel in the 14th century. The lower part of the
tower (144 ft. high) is Norman, but the belfry-stage and the octa-
gonal spire (perhaps the oldest in England) are E. E. "Wolsey
removed half of the nave to make room for his college quadrangle
and the cathedral as it now stands is the smallest in England. Daily
services are held at 10 a.m. and 5p.m. adm., free, 10-1 and 2.30-4.30.
;

The building has been skilfully restored by Sir G. G. Scott.

15*
228 Route 32. OXFORD. Cathedral.

Interior. The most striking feature in the NAve is the curious

arrangement of the arches, which are double, the lower ones springing
from corbels attached to the massive piers. These last are alternately cir-
cular and octagonal. The pointed arches of the clerestory are the
nearest approach to the E.E. style in the main part of the church. The
timber roof is generally ascribed to Wolsey. The pulpit and organ-screen
are Jacobean. The most interesting tombs in the nave those of Bishop Berke-
ley (d. 1753) and Dr. Pusey (d. 1882). The beautiful W. window of the S.
aisle was executed by Morris, from the design of Burne Jones. —
A good
general view of the interior is obtained from the platform in the S.
Transept. In the E. wall of the aisle of this transept is an old stained-glass
window, from which the head of St. Thomas of Canterbury, now replaced
by plain white glass , is said to have been struck by a Puritan trooper.
— The Choir resembles the nave in general character, though probably of
somewhat earlier date. The beautiful groined roof, with its graceful
pendants, is also attributed to Wolsey, but Sir G. G. Scott considers it
still earlier. The E. end is intended to reproduce as far as possible the
original Norman arrangement. The *Windows at the E. ends of the
choir-aisles are also by Burne Jones. The Stalls and the elaborate Epis-
copal Throne (a memorial of Bishop Wilberforce) are modern. The S.
choir-aisle contains a bust of the late Duke of Albany (d. 1884).
Adjoining the N. aisle of the choir is the Ladt Chapel, an E.E. ad-
dition of the middle of the 13th cent., occupying a very unusual position.
The E. window is by Burne Jones. On the N. side are a series of inter-
esting monuments: Sir George Sowers (d. 1425) and Lady Montacule
(d. 1353), with fine effigies-, the Prior's Tomb (ca. 1300); and the so-called
Shrine of St. Frideswide (15th or 16th cent.), more probably a watching-
chamber. On the pier at the foot of the monument of Sir George Nowers
is the tablet of Robert Burton (d. 1639), author of the 'Anatomy of Melan-
choly', with an inscription by himself. — To the N. of the Lady Chapel
is the Dec. Latin Chapel (14th cent.), so called from the daily reading
of the college-prayers in Latin. The flowing tracery of the windows and
the vault-bosses deserve attention. The new E. window has poor tracery,
but good stained glass (by Burne Jones; St. Frideswide). — The E.E.
Chapter House is entered by a fine late-Norman door in the E. side of
the Cloisters (Perp.), to the S. of the Nave (canon's order necessary).
We now return through the Great Quadrangle, passing the
Dean's house on the right, and enter Peckwater Quadrangle (1705).
On the S. side is the Library (1761), containing a valuable collection
of books and a few paintings and drawings by Italian masters (Eaphael,
etc.; 11-1 and 2-4, in vacation 9-6; adm. 3d.). The pictures include a
Nativity by Titian and a curious Butcher's Shop by A. Carracci. In the
entrance-hall is a statue by Chantrey, and on the staircase are a bust of
Persephone by Hiram Powers and a statue of John Locke by Rysbrack.
The curiosities of the library (upstairs) include a letter of Charles II.
and a Latin exercise book of the Duke of Gloucester, son of Queen Anne,
with corrections by his tutor Bishop Burnet (1700).
To the S. of Tom Quad are the modern Christ Church Meadow
Buildings, the great gate of which forms one of the chief ap-
proaches to the Broad "Walk and the river (comp. p. 229).
To t>e N. is Canterbury Quad. Here we leave the college by
Canterbury Gate, on the site of Canterbury College, an extinct cor-
poration of which Wycliffe (d. 1384) was once Warden, and which
numbered Sir Thomas More (beheaded 1535) among its students.
Among the most distinguished members of Christ Church are Sir Philip
Sidney, Locl;e, Camden, Ben Jonson, the Wesleys, Wellington, Peel, Pusey,
Ruskin, and Gladstone. This was also the Prince of Wales's college.
From Canterbury Gate, King Street leads to the E., with the
side of Oriel College to the left. To the right is the entrance to —
 ;

Oriel. OXFORD. 32. Route. 229

Corpus Christi College (PI. 15; C, 4), founded in 1516 by

Fox, Bishop of Winchester.
The vaulted roof of the gateway leading to the quadrangle ia fine,
and the latter contains a curious old sun-dial with a perpetual calendar.
In the S.B. corner is the Chapel (with an altar-piece by Kubens), and be-
side it ia the passage to the cloisters and to the newer part of the college,
added in 1706. The Library is rich in illuminated MSS. and incunabula.
Bishop Hooker was a student of Corpus, and his rooms are still pointed
out other eminent members are Cardinal Pole, Biahop Jewell, Kehle, and
;

Thomas Day, author of 'Sandford and Merton\

On leaving Corpus we turn to the right (B.J, and, passing the
chapel, reach the entrance (to the right) of —
*Merton College (PI. 21; C, 4), the oldest in the University,
founded by Walter de Merton in 1264 and intended by him ex-
clusively for the education of parish-priests.
The 'Chapel (10-5) is one of the finest in Oxford; the choir was built
by the founder and consecrated in 127U, while the ante-chapel and tower
date from 1417-24 (college serviced on Sun. at 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., 5.45 in
summer term ; parish-service at 3 p.m.). The masaive tower is one of the
landmarks of Oxford. The windowa of the ante-chapel are excellent
examples of early - Perpendicular. The chapel contains two very fine
brasses of the 14th and lath cent., and Anthony a Wood (d. 1699), the
chronicler of Oxford, is buried in the ante-chapel. The Library, built at
the end of the 14th cent., is the most ancient in England and contains
many rare books and MSB. The Inner Quadrangle ia a good example of
the Jacobean style. Duna Scotus, Steele, and Bodley (founder of the Bod-
leian Library) are among the most distinguished alumni of Merton, which
has also contributed aix archbishops to the see of Canterbury. Harvey (dis-
coverer of the circulation of the blood ; comp. p. 436) was Master. The
garden commands a fine view: to the E. is Magdalen Tower, to the W.
the Cathedral , in front Christ Church Meadow (PI. C 4, 5).
, The latter,
which is intersected by the "Broad Walk, an avenue of noble elms, may
be reached by the lane between Merton and Corpus. The Broad Walk is
the scene of 'Show Sunday\ formerly a fashionable promenade on the
evening of the Sunday in Commemoration Week (p. 227), but now almost
wholly resigned by 'Gown' to 'Town'. A delightful walk may be taken
from Christ Church Meadow along the Isis, passing the College Barges
(p. 223), to the Cherwell and Magdalen College (comp. p. 233).
Incorporated with Merton is St. Alb an Hall (PI. 37), founded
in 1230, with a facade of 1600. Among the eminent names connected
with this small institution are Massinger, Whateley, and Speaker
Lenthall. — We now return to the W. end of Merton St., where
—
Oriel St. diverges to the right. In it, to the right, stands
Oriel College (PI. 23 C, 4), founded by Edward II. in 1326.
;

The present buildings date mainly from 1630-37, and though des-
titute of marked architectural merit form a picturesque and
pleasing whole. The library was erected in 1788. Sir Walter
Kaleigh, Bishop Butler, John Henry Newman, Abp. Whateley,
Keble, Dr. Thomas Arnold, Bishop Wilberforce, Thomas Hughes,
and Pusey were members of Oriel. —
In the same street, a little
farther on, is St. Mary Hall (PI. 38; C, 3), established in 1333
it is known in the undergraduate world as 'Skimmery'. Opposite,
on the N. side of High St. is St. Mary's (PI. 0, 3), the Univer-
,

sityChurch (sacristan, Swan Court, High St.). The handsome spire

dates from 1300, the choir from 1460, the nave from 1488, and
 —

230 Route 32. OXFORD. Bodleian.

the S. porch with its curious twisted pillars (p. lvii) , added by
Dr. Owen chaplain of Abp. Laud from 1637. A slab in the
, ,

chancel pavement records that Amy Rohsart was buried in the choir
in 1560. The University Sermons, preached here on Sun. forenoon
and afternoon, are preceded by the special 'Bidding Prayer' for the
University. —
At the back (to the N.) of this church rises the —
*Radcliffe Library (PI. 36 C, 3), founded in 1737 by Dr. Rad-
;

cliffe, court-physician to William III. and Mary II. The building

is a handsome rotunda, embellished with columns, and surmounted
by a dome resting on an octagonal base; Mr. Freeman considers it
'the grandest of all English-Italian designs'. The books have been
removed to the University Museum and the building is now used
,

as part of the Bodleian (10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; adm. 3d.). In clear

weather an admirable * View of Oxford and the country round is
obtained from the foot of the dome. —
Opposite the W. gate of the
Radcliffe Library rises the old gate-tower of
Brasenose College (PI. 13; 0, 3), or the King's Hall, founded
in 1509. The site of this college was originally occupied by a much
older institution, called Brasenose Hall, possibly because it was
built on the site of a brewery ('Brasenhus') , though there is no
evidence to support this conjecture. The form 'brazenose' appears
in a document of 1278, and is perpetuated by a large brazen nose
affixed to the college-gate and by the Latin phrase ('Collegium
Aenei Nasi') in the official documents of the college.
The gate and the Hall have preserved their original character unaltered.
A new quadrangle was added in 1888, entered by a gateway in the 'High'
adjoining St. Mary's (p. 229). The Library and the Chapel, completed in
1C63 and 16U6, show an unpleasing medley of Gothic and classic forms.
The books of Brasenose contain the names of Foxe ('Book of Martyrs'),
Burton ('Anatomy of Melancholy'), Bishop Heber, Rev. F. W. Robertson,
Dean Milman, and the Rev. H. Barham ('Ingoldsby Legends').
The large quadrangular block of buildings to the N. of the
Radcliffe Library contains the Old Examination Schools (comp.
p. 234), begun in 1439 and completed in 1613-18. The principal
entrance is by a Gothic gateway on the E. side. The side of the
tower facing the court is adorned with columns of all the five Roman
architectural orders, and with a statue of James I., supported by
figures of Religion and Fame. The tower is crowned with an open
parapet and pinnacles. — Since the erection of the New Schools
(p. 234), however, the whole of this quadrangle has been absorbed
by the *Bodleian Library (PI. 2, C 3 open 9 to 3, 4, or 5, accord-
;

ing to the season; adm. for a visitor 3d., unless accompanied by a

member of the university in academic dress), which was originally
established in 1445, opened as a libray in 1488, and practically
re founded and rebuilt by Sir Thomas Bodley in 1597-1602. The
entrance is in the S.W. corner of the quadrangle.
The library contains about 460,000 printed volumes, 27,000 vols, of
MSS., drawings, and 50,000 coins. It also possesses a collection of models
of ancient temples and other buildings and a Gallery of Portraits. In
the part of the reading-room open to visitors are glass-cases containing
 Museum. OXFORD. 32. Route. 231

autographs of celebrated persons, antiquities, curiosities of writing, re-

markable early printed books, MSS. distinguished for their age or their
illumination, and beautiful or singular bindings. In the portrait gallery
are Sir Thomas Bodley's chest and various historical relics.
We quit the Schools by the Proscholium or Pig Market, 'a rare
example of an original ambulatory', the latter name commemorating
the unworthy use to which the adjoining building was put in the
reign of Charles I., and find ourselves opposite the —
"Divinity School (PI. 31 C, 3), built in 1445-80 on a scale of
;

great magnificence (see p. lvi). The groined ceiling is remarkable for

its beautiful tracery and pendants. In this hall the trial of CranmeT,
Latimer, and Ridley was held in 1555. During the Civil Wars and
the Commonwealth it was, like the other Schools, used as a store-
house for corn, but at the end of the 17th cent it was restored
by Sir Christopher Wren. — To the W. is the Convocation House,
used for the conferring of degrees, the election of professors, meetings
of Convocation, and other university purposes.
To the N. of the Schools rises the Sheldonian Theatre (PI. 40,
C, 3 porter generally at hand, 3d.), built by Sir Christopher Wren
;

in 1664-69 at the expense of Archbishop Sheldon. This handsome

edifice, which can accommodate upwards of 3000 persons, is used
for the Encaenia, or annual commemoration of founders, when prize-
poems and essays are Tecited and honorary degrees conferred. On
this occasion the undergraduates occupy the upper gallery and ex-
press their opinions frankly as to the different recipients of degrees.
The ceiling is adorned with paintings by Streater, court-painter to
Charles II., representing the triumph of Religion, the Arts, and the
Sciences over Envy, Rapine, and Ignorance. Among the portraits are
those of George IV., Sir Christopher Wren, Alexander I. of Russia, and
Frederick William IV. of Prussia, the last two by Ger.ird. The view
from the cupola, which was added in 1833, resembles that from the dome
of the Radcliffe Library (p. 230).
The Theatre abuts on Broad St. and is adjoined on the W. by the
Ashmolean Museum (PI. 1 adm. 11-4, 3d. unless accompanied by
;

a member of the University), established by Elias Ashmole in 1682.

The original collection, formed by a Dutchman named Tradescant, is
partly in the University Museum, while the books have been placed in
the Bodleian Library. The collection of antiquities formed by Ashmole
himself is, however, still kept in this building; among these are 'King
Alfreds Jewell', watches which belonged to Queen ElUabeth and Oliver
Cromwell, and other interesting historical relics. In the sunk floor arc
some of the Arundel Marbles, a collection of ancient sculptural fragments
and inscriptions, formed by an Earl of Arundel in the 17th century.
|Most of the inscriptions are in a room on the ground-tloor of the Old
Schools, and the rest of the sculptures are in the University Galleries.]
Also in Broad St. to the E. of the Theatre is the Clarendon
, ,

Building (PI. 1(T; C, 3), built in 1713, in part with the profits of
the sale of Lord Clarendon's History of the Rebellion, the copyright
of which was presented to the University by his son. The Clarendon
was long occupied by the University printing-press, but now
contains offices of the governing body of the University.
To the E. of the Clarendon buildings, at the end of Broad St. and
232 Route 32. OXFORD. New College.

Holywell St., is tlie Indian Institute, a building in an Oriental style, in-

tended for students qualifying for the Indian Civil Service. Its museum
is open 10-4 in winter and 10-6 in summer.
—In Holywell St., a little to
the E. of the Indian Institute, is a Music Room.
From the end of Broad St., Park St. leads N. to Wadham Col-
lege (PI. 29, 3; on the right), founded in 1613, and built in a
uniform and pleasing style.
The Qate-Tower and the timber-ceiling of the Hall deserve inspection,
an d the Chapel (see p. lvii), with some stained glass of 1622, is also fine.
The "Gardens are among the prettiest in Oxford. Among the alumni of
Wadham are Sir Christopher Wren, Lord Chancellor Westbury, and Ad-
miral Blake. The Royal Society (see Baedeker's London) grew out of meet-
ings for scientific discussion held here in the time of the Commonwealth
(ca. 1648). Most of the leaders of the English Positivists (Congreve, Fred-
eric Harrison, Beesly) came from Wadham.
A little to the E. of Wadham is Mansfield College (PI. D, 2 build-
;

ings finished in 1889), a theological college in connection with the

Congregationalist body, and intended to serve as a centre for the more
orthodox Nonconformists in Oxford. —
Adjacent is the site of Manchester
New College, a similar institution connected with the Unitarians, recently
transferred from London to Oxford.
Farther to the N., at the beginning of the Parks, is the Uni-
versity Museum (PI. 43; C, D, 2), a modern Gothic building (1857-
60), containing valuable geological, chemical, anatomical, zoolo-
gical, and other collections (open daily, 2-4). The chemical
laboratory is well equipped.
Nearly opposite the Museum is Keble College (PI. 18; C, 1, 2),
built in 1868-70 as a memorial of the Rev. John Keble, author of
the 'Christian Year', and intended to afford the opportunity of a uni-
versity career to those whose means do not permit them to study at
the older and more expensive colleges. The buildings are of varie-
gated brick, and the Chapel, entered from the archway at its W. end
(open 10-12 and 2-4, in summer till 5.30), is gorgeously adorned
with mosaics. Keble resembles the Halls in having no Fellows.
The library (2-4) contains Holman Hunt's 'Light of the World'.
In front of Keble is the TJniversity Park (PI. D, 1, 2), one of
the most charming recreation-grounds inEngland. The scene during
an important cricket-match is very bright and varied. The Univer-
sity Observatory stands in the Park.
From Keble we now return, passing Wadham College, to the
end of Broad St., and follow Catherine St., which leads hence in a
straight direction towards the S. To the left stands Hertford Col-
lege (PI. 32; C, 3), on the site of Hart or Hertford Hall, which
was founded about 1282. In 1822 the buildings were occupied by
Magdalen Hall, which was dissolved in 1874, but immediately re-
founded as Hertford College. Among the members «f Magdalen Hall
and Hertford College were Thomas Hobbes, Lord Chancellor Claren-
don, and Dean Swift. — New College St. leads hence to —
*New College (PI. 22; D, 3), which in spite of its name is one of
the oldest and most interesting buildings in Oxford. It was founded
by William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester (p. 77), in 1386, and
 ,

Magdalen. OXFORD. 32. Route. 233

a great part of the building still retains its original appearance. The
upper story of the principal quadrangle dates, however, from 1678,
the garden-wing was added in 1684, and new buildings were added
in 1880 by Sir G. G. Scott.
The "Chapel, which is, the earliest building in England
perhaps,
erected from the foundations entirely in the Perp. style, contains the
silver-gilt crozier of the founder. The stained-glass windows in the ante-
chapel and the upper lighls of the other windows are old (14th cent.), the
lower lights in the chapel itself are partly by Flemish (S. side) and partly
by English CN. side) masters. The large W. window was executed in 1777
from designs by Reynolds. The fine altar-screen was restored in 1789.
The organ is said to be one of the best in England. [Divine service is
held daily at 8 a.m. (7.30 a.m. in summer) and 5 p.m.; adm. 11-1 and
2-4 free, at other times Is.] The smaller quadrangle, adjoining the chapel,
with its "Cloisters and Tower, was not built till the rest of the college was
completed. A manifold echo may be awakened here. The tower, the
last work of William of Wykeham, seems to have been meant partly as
a fortification. The beautiful "Gardens, 'a sweet, quiet, sacred, stately
seclusion' (Hawthorne), afford a good view of the bastions of the old city-
wall. A gate in the city-wall leads to the 'Slype' (good view of the out-
side of the wall and of the tower) and to the range of new buildings
facing Holywell. Sydney Smith, Augustus Hare, and numerous bishops and
archbishops were students of New College.
On quitting New College we turn to the left, pass beneath an
archway, and reach the ancient church of St. Peter in the East
(PI. 9; D, 3), with a Norman *Crypt and Choir of the middle of the
12th century. The S. wall of the nave and its line doorway date
from the same period the pillars and arches are of the 13th cent.
;

the N. windows of the 14th cent., the W. and S. windows and the
porch of the 15th century. —
A few paces to the S. is —
St. Edmund Hall (PI. D 3, 4)
, a small institution founded
,

in 1226 and rebuilt in 1559. Its quadrangle contains a remarkably

fine wisteria. Bishop Wilson, the Metropolitan of India, was a
student here. — We now regain the High Street, where we turn
to the left (E.) and soon reach, at the end of the street —
*St. Mary Magdalen College (PI. 20, D 4 pronounced Maud-
;

lin), founded by Bishop Waynflete in 1457, but not built till

1474-81. This college has perhaps the best claim to be regarded as the
most beautiful in Oxford.
We enter the quadrangle by a new gateway erected in 1S85. In the
corner to the right, on a level with the first-floor windows, is an old stone
pulpit, from which a University sermon used to be preached on the festi-
val of St. John the Baptist. To the left are part of old Magdalen Hall
and the newly-built 'St. Swilhin's Quad? (Bodley & Garner); immediately
9Pposite is the President's House. In a small court to the right is the so-
called 'Founder's Tower', a graceful ivy-clad structure. The chambers oc-
cupied by the founder were carefully restored in 1857 and contain some
valuable old tapestry, representing the marriage of Prince Arthur, elder
brother of Henry VIII., with Catherine of Aragon. The Chapel (service
daily at 10 a.m. and 6 p. m., adm. to choir by ticket from a Fellow; adm.
to the ante-chapel, 11-12.30, free) was successfully restored in 1833 and
contains an elaborate reredos with numerous statues. The First Quadrangle
is surrounded with cloisters, one side of which is modern. In the S. £.
corner is a flight of steps leading to the Hall, a fine room with carved
oak panelling of 1541. A small passage connects the cloister with the
Chaplain's Quadrangle, a small court affording a good view of "Magdalen
 ;

234 Route 32. OXFORD. Queen's.

Tower. The latter, erected in the Perp. style in 1492-1505, is one of the
chief architectural glories of the city; it is said to have been built under
the superintendence of Wolsey, when Bursar of the College. The choir
sings a Latin hymn on the top of this tower at 5 a.m. on May Day, a
custom supposed (but without sufficient reason) to have originated as an
annual requiem for Henry VII. (d. 1509). The Library contains some
valuable MSS. (including Wolsey's copy of the Gospels) and early printed
books. The tasteless Fellows* Buildings harmonize very badly with the
—
older parts of the college. The college "Grounds should also be visited;
Addison's Walk is said to have been a favourite resort of the essayist when
an undergraduate, and the Water Walks along the Cherwell, of which it
forms a part, are very beautiful (reached by turning to the right in the
inner quadrangle). Behind the inner quadrangle is a paddock containing
deer. — The names of Wolsey, Hampden, Addison, Professor John Wilson,
Charles Keade, Collins, and Gibbon are among the most eminent on the
books of Magdalen. The Fellows of Magdalen in 1688 earned a memor-
able place in history by their courageous resistance to James II. 's un-
constitutional interference in the election of the president of the college.
On leaving Magdalen we see almost opposite us the gate
(built in 1632) of the Botanic Garden. To the left is Magdalen
Bridge the regular approach to Oxford from the E.
, A
little
to the right we enjoy a capital view of the whole length of the
High Street or 'The High.', the principal street of the city, flanked
on both sides with a long array of picturesque and interesting
buildings. Wordsworth has devoted a sonnet to the 'stream-like
windings of that glorious street', Hawthorne calls it 'the noblest
old street in England', and Sir Walter Scott admits that it rivals
the High St. of Edinburgh. We
now follow it towards the W.,
passing the back of St. Edmund's Hall nearly opposite which, to
,

the left, are the New Examination Schools (PI. D, 4), a hand-
some building by Jackson, with a line entrance-hall. Visitors (3d.
each, if unaccompanied by a member of the University) may enter
any of the Viva Voce rooms and witness the examination. Next
door are the Buildings of the Non- Collegiate Students.
A little farther on, to the right, is Queen's College (PI. 25
D, 3), founded in 1340 by Robert de Eglesfield, confessor of Phi-
lippa, consort of Edward III., and named by him in honour of his
royal mistress. No part of the original building now remains the ;

present college dates from 1692, and its chapel from 1714.
The Hall, a well-proportioned room designed by Wren, is adorned
with portraits of the founder and various benefactors of the college. The
buttery contains an old drinking-horn, presented by Queen Philippa. The
Library, which inherited a bequest of 50,000J. in 1841, is the largest col-
legiate library in Oxford. Queen's was the college of the Black Prince,
Henry V., Cardinal Beaufort, Addison, Wycherley, and Jeremy Bentham,
Opposite, on the S. side of the High St., is University College
(PI. 28; C,3), which pretends to have been founded by King Alfred,
but has no substantial proof of an earlier origin than 1249, when
William, Archdeacon of Durham, left a sum of money for the sup-
port of a number of masters, who, however, were not incorporated
till 1280. University College is thus younger than Merton (p. 229)
as an incorporated college, though it represents the earliest en-
dowment for scholastic purposes in Oxford.
 Exeter. OXFORD. 32. Route. 235
The present buildings date from 1634-74 and 1850. The imposing Go
thic front, with two tower-gateways, is one of the most conspicuous or-
naments of the High Street. On the W. gateway are statues of Queen
Anne (outside) and James II. (inside), on the E. gateway are Queen Mary
and Dr. Radcllffe. Shelley was an undergraduate at University College
and the names of Lord Chancellor Eldon, Lord Herbert of Cherhury, the
hymn-writer Faber, Robert Lowe (Lord Sherbrooke), and Dr. Radcliffc
are also on the books.
A few paces farther on, on the N. side of High St., is —
*AU Souls College (PI. 11; C, 3), founded in 1437 by Arch-
bishop Chichele, to provide masses for the souls of those who died
in the Hundred Years' War with France. The second quadrangle,
with its two towers, was added in 1720.
The Gateway, with its fine vaulted roof, and the Fint Quadrangle are
in the state in which they were left by the founder. The entrance to the
Chapel (open 12-1 and 2-4), under the E. turret, has some exquisite fan-
tracery in the roof; inside is a very handsome reredos. The New Quad-
rangle, on the N. side of which is the Library, makes a somewhat im-
posing impression in spite of its questionable taste ; it commands a good
view of the Radcliffe (p. 230). The library contains Wren's original designs
for St. Paul's. All Souls is singular in having practically no under-
graduates, though it has 50 fellowships, mostly held by lawyers. Jeremy
Taylor, Herrick, and Blackstone were members of All Souls.
All Souls is adjoined by the church of St. Mary , already men-
tioned at p. 230. On the same side, a little farther on, is All Saints'
Church, built in 1705-8. At this point Turl Street, so named
from an old entrance to the town at the N. end (A. S. thyrl, a hole),
diverges to the right. In it, on the right, is —
Lincoln College (PI. 19; C, 3), founded by a Bishop of Lincoln
in 1427. The chapel, dating from 1631, contains some good stained
glass brought from Italy at that period. In the quadrangle to the
right are two luxuriant vines. John Wesley was a fellow of Lincoln,
and Mark Pattison was Rector.
In the same street, separated from Lincoln College by a lane, is
Exeter College (PL 16; C, 3), founded by Walter of Stapleton,
Bishop of Exeter, in 1314. All the buildings have been repeatedly
restored, and several of them were erected in the present century.
The ~ Chapel is a very successful modern revival of 13th cent. Gothic
(adm. 10-12 and 2-4, free). The Ball, built in 1618 and restored in 1818,
is also noteworthy. The new buildings next the 'High', including the
Principal's Souse, are by Jackson (1889). The Fellows' Garden, to which
visitors are admitted after 1 p.m. affords a good view of the Bodleian
Library and the Divinity School. The large chestnut ;it the foot of the
1
garden is known as 'Heber's Tree because it overhung Heber's rooms in
,

Brasenose (see p. 230). Among the famous alumni of Exeter are Lyell,
Dyce (the Shakespearian commentator), F. D. Maurice, and J. A. Froude.
Opposite Exeter College stands Jesus College (PI. 17; C, 3),
founded by Queen Elizabeth and Dr. Hugh Price in 1571, rebuilt
in 1621-67, and restored in 1856.
The Chapel dates from 1621, and contains some oaken wainscoting of
that period. The Hall contains a fine Jacobean screen and some portraits,
including one of Charles I., ascribed to Van Dyck, and there is a fine
portrait of Queen Elizabeth by Zucchero in one of the common-rooms.
The valuable Welsh MSS. belonging to Jesus College have been deposited
in the Bodleian (p. 230). In the Bursary is a huge silver punch-bowl,
 236 Route 32. OXFORD. St. John's.

holding eight gallons. This college was originally intended for Welsh
students only, and divine service is still held in the chapel in Welsh twice
a week. It has been prolific of Welsh bishops.
Wenow proceed to the N. end of Turl Street and cross Broad
Street. Here, facing us, is the gateway leading to Trinity College
(PI.27; C, 2), established in 1554 on the site of a Benedictine
college suppressed by Henry VIII. The Chapel, built in 1694 in
the classical style contains a beautiful carved screen and altar-
,

piece by Grinling Gibbons. The new buildings are by Jackson. In

the Garden is a celebrated avenue of limes. Ohillingworth, Selden,
Landor, the elder Pitt, Lord Selborne, Cardinal Newman, and E.
A. Freeman are among the members of Trinity. —
In Broad St.,
to the W. of Trinity College, lies —
Balliol College (PL 12; C, 3), commonly said to have been
founded in 1263 by John Balliol whose son was for a short time
,

King of Scotland. None of the present buildings are older than the
15th cent., and the S. front, with its massive tower, has lately
been rebuilt..
The Gothic Chapel, built by Butterfield in 1858, supplants one of the
most perfect architectural groups in Oxford, consisting of the old chapel
and library. The new Sail is by Waterhouse (1876). Balliol is one of
the largest colleges in Oxford, and its standard of scholarship is very high.
It is much frequented by Scottish students. The library contains some
ancient Bibles and valuable MS8. Wycliffe was for a time Master of Balliol,
an office now held by Mr. Jowett. Besides several Archbishops of Can-
terbury, the hooks of the college contain the names of Adam Smith, Sir
William Hamilton (the metaphysician), Southey, Lockhart, Cardinal Man-
ning, De in Stanley, Matthew Arnold, and Swinburne.
To the W. of Balliol rises the church of St. Mary Magdalen
(PI. 7; C, 2, 3), founded in 1320. The tower dates from 1511-31,
but the rest of the building has been so frequently altered and
restored that almost nothing remains of the original structure. To
the N. of the church stands the Martyrs' Memorial (PI. 33 C, 2), ;

designed by Sir G. G. Scott and erected in 1841 to the memory

of Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley, who were burned in front of
Balliol College in 1555 and 1556. The monument is in the richest
Gothic style, and is adorned with statues of the three martyrs, by
Weekes. — To the N.W. of the Memorial, at the corner of St. Giles
Street and Beaumont Street, is the Taylor Institution (PI. 39;
B, 2), erected as a building for the teaching of modern languages,
and also accommodating the University Galleries (PI. 42 B, 2). ;

The galleries contain a collection of paintings and sculptures, casts

from the antique, the original models of Chantrey's busts and statues,
some fine water-colours by Turner, and a very valuable series of drawings,
including 157 by Raphael and 53 by Michael Angelo (open daily, 12-4, ex-
cept for a few weeks in the Long Vacation ; adm. to visitors, unaccom-
panied by a member of the University in academic gown, 2d.). On the
ground-floor of the S.W. wing is the Ruskin Drawing School (open, Mon.
& Thurs. 2-4, Wed. and Sat. 12-4).
Nearly opposite, in St. Giles St., is St. John's College (PI. 26;
C, 2"), founded in 1555.
The old quadrangle belonged to the College of St. Bernard, founded
by Archbishop Chichele about 1410; the Hall is of the same period, but
 Union. OXFORD. 32. Route. 237

has been restored. The Chapel, consecrated in 1530, was restored in 1843.
From the first quadrangle a vaulted passage with delicate fan- tracery leads
to the second quadrangle, built mainly by Archbishop Laud (1631), Pre-
sident of St. John's, who is buried in the chapel. The S. and E. sides
are occupied by the library. The oriel windows on the garden-side are
very picturesque. The * Gardens of St. John's, with their beautiful lawns,
are among the finest in Oxford. The Library contains several relics of
Abp. Laud, including the skull-cap in which he was executed; also some
fine MSS. and early printed works. Among eminent members of St. Johns
are Abp. Juxon, Dean Mansel, and the poet Shirley.
Beyond John's the road forks, the right branch, Banbury
St.
Road, leading past St. Giles's Church (PI. 6 C, 1), built about the
;

year 1200 ,to Norham Gardens (right) with Lady Margaret's

,

Hall (p. 238). The left branch, Woodstock Road, leads to the Roman
Catholic Church of St. Aloysius, Somerville Hall (p. 238), and the
Radcliffe Infirmary (PI. 35 C, 1) and Radcliffe Observatory, both
;

built at the end of last century with funds bequeathed by Dr. Rad-
cliffe (comp. p. 230).
Beyond the observatory we turn to the W. into Observatory
Street, from which Walton Street diverges to the left. In the latter
stands the University Press (PI. 44 B, 1), built in 1830. Farther
;

on in the same street, opposite the end of Beaumont St., is Wor-

cester College (PI. 30 B, 2), erected in 1714 on the site of the
;

Benedictine foundation of Gloucester College (1283; afterwards

Gloucester Hall).
The chapel presents one of the richest Renaissance interiors in Eng-
land, and the hall contains a few paintings. The Library has some valu-
able MSS. The shady 'Gardens, which contain a small lake, though less
trim than some of the others, are very beautiful. Lovelace, De Quincey,
and F. W. Newman studied at Worcester.
We now descend Beaumont Street, and church of St. Mary
at the
Magdalen turn to the right into Corn-market Street.
Here, to the
left , stands St. Michael's Church. (PI. 8 C 3) with a tower
; , ,

probably built by Robert d'Oily (11th cent.), as part of the town-

wall the rest of the church dates from various later periods.
; To —
the right, a little way back from the street, are the rooms of the
Union Society (PI. B, 3), famous as a debating-society and under-
graduates' club, founded in 1823.
Many of the most eminent of England's parliamentary speakers owe
part of their success to their training in tbe debates of the 'Union'. Meetings
for debate are held every Thurs. evening during term. The premises
include reading, writing, smoking, and coffee rooms, a library, and a large
hall in which the debates are held. The library is adorned with frescoes
by Rossetti, Morris, and others. Visitors may be introduced for a few
days by a member.
A little farther on, Cornmarket Street joins High Street at
Carfax (PL B, 3), the name of which is supposed to be a corruption
of Quatre Faces or Quatre Voies. The picturesque old conduit that
formerly stood here was removed toNunehaminl787(comp. p. 218).
To the right is St. Martin's Church, with a tower of the 13th century.
Crossing Carfax, we follow St. Aldate's Street (pron. St. Old's),
which forms a S. prolongation of Cornmarket Street. On the left
2!5S Route 32. OXFORD. Excursions.

stands the Town Hall (PI. 41; B, C, 3), and on the right are the
Post Office and the Church of St. Aldate (PI. 5; B, 4), a Dec. edi-
fice of the 14th century. The Aims-Houses to the S. of this church
were founded by Card. Wolsey and endowed by Henry VIII., but
wore not completed till 1834. —To the W., behind the church, lies
Pembroke College (PL 24 ; B, 4), founded in 1624, with a fine mod-
ern hall and a newly decorated chapel. This was the college of
Dr. Samuel Johnson (rooms above the gateway), George Whitfield,
Sir Thomas Browne, Francis Beaumont, and the patriotic Pym.
From Carfax Queen Street Igads W. to the remains of the
old Castle (PI. B, 3; in New Road), now consisting of little more
than a Norman tower within the walls of the County Gaol. The
Empress Matilda was besieged in this castle by Stephen in 1141, but
escaped during the night and found refuge at Wallingford (p. 219).
At the end of Queen St. is New Inn Hall St., leading to the
N. past New Inn Hall (PI. B, 3), which has been a place of
education, with short interruptions, since about 1350.
Oxford possesses three halls for ladies, the discipline and tuition
of which are assimilated as closely as possible to those of the men's
colleges. Lady Margaret Hall and St. Hugh's Hall are situated in
Norham Gardens (PI. C, D, 1) Somerville Hall, named in honour
;

of Mrs. Somerville, the mathematician, is in Woodstock Road (PI.

C, 1). The scholarship of the lady-students is tested by the ex-
amination-papers of the University, but they have a separate class-
list and are not allowed to take a degree.

Excursions from Oxford.

Perhaps the most popular is that to Woodstock and Blenheim, which
may be reached either by railway (comp. E. 33) or by road (carr. and
pair there and back 20s.). Choosing the second and pleasanter of these
alternatives, we leave Oxford by St. Giles Road and drive to the N.W.,
via Wolvercote and Begbrooke, beyond which we skirt Blenheim Park, to
(Sll.) Woodstock (Bear), a small and ancient town with 7500inhab. and
manufactories of leather gloves. Woodstock Manor was an early residence
of the English kings, but no trace now remains of the palace built by
Henry I. Edward, the Black Prince, was born at Woodstock in 1330,
and here Henry II. constructed the bower in which he concealed 'Fair
Rosamond'. The Princess Elizabeth was confined in the gate-house for
some time by her sister Queen Mary. Chaucer was at one time a
resident in Woodstock, and its name is also connected with literature
by means of the romance of Walter Scott. A little way beyond the
church is the entrance to 'Blenheim Park, with the magnificent palace
of the Duke of Marlborough. Woodstock Manor was presented to the
first Duke of Marlborough in recognition of his numerous victories, and
parliament voted him a sum of 500,0002. to build a residence. The park
is about 12 M. in circumference and is stocked with deer. The Palace
was built by Vanbrugh, and is a good example of his heavy though
imposing style ('Lie heavy on him, Earth, for he Laid many a heavy
load on thee'), with a Corinthian portico in the centre and two projecting
wings. The length of the facade is nearly 400 ft. The interior is richly
adorned with tapestry and painted ceilings by Thornhill. The best works
of the valuable collection of paintings have recently been sold, but there
still remain interesting examples of Reynolds, Gainsborough, Hudson, and
others. The Gardens are very extensive and attractive, and contain tern-
 !

GODSTOW. 32. Route. 239

pies, cascades, and fountains in the taste of the period. The park is
always open to pedestrians, and the house and gardens are shown on
Mon., Wed., and Frid. from 11 to 1 or 2 (fee for each Is.). Carriages
must he accompanied by one of the lodge-keepers (fee 2s. 6<J.).
About 372-4 M. to the S. of Oxford, beyond South Hinksey, rises Boar's
Hill, a favourite point for short walks. The walk may be continued to
Abingdon (p. 216); or we may turn to the left at the end of Bagley Wood,
cross the Thames at Sandford Mill and return to Oxford by Littlemore
,

(of which Newman was chaplain) and Iffley (p. 218). The last-named village,
which affords a good view of Oxford possesses an interesting Norman
,

church. This is a round of 7-8 M.

About 6 M. to the W. of Oxford lies Stanton Harcourt, the ancient
seat of the Harcourt family, reached by a pleasant walk passing Cumnor
and (4 M.) Bablockhythe, where we cross the 'stripling Thames' by a ferry.
The old manor-house was built in the reign of Edward IV. and con-
tains a room in which Pope spent two summers. The curious old kitchen,
which still remains, has been described as 'either a kitchen within a
chimney or a kitchen without one'. Pope, who wrote most of his 'Iliad
here, has given a playful and picturesque account of Stanton Harcourt in
one of. his letters. Near the village are three large stones known as the
DeviVs Quoits. — Cumnor Hall (destroyed) is known to all readers of Kenil-
worth and friends of the unfortunate Amy Robsart. The church contains
the tomb of Anthony Forster, with a highly laudatory inscription
Shotover Hill (600 ft.), 4 M. to the E., commands a fine view of Oxford
and its environs. It was a favourite resort of the undergraduate Shelley.
About l'/2 M. farther is Cuddesden (p. 217), with the palace of the Bishop
of Oxford and a large theological college.
A pleasant walk of 9-10 M. may be taken along the E. bank of the
Cherwell to Islip (p. 217), Oddington, and Charlton-on-Otmoor. The church
of the last-named contains a fine rood-screen of carved oak (ca. 1500). A
detour may be made to include Water Eaton, on the W. bank, with a good
Elizabethan manor-house.
Archaeologists may pay a visit to the 'British Village', near Stand'
lake, about 7 M. to the S.W. of Oxford. A little to the E. of Standlake,
is Gaunt House, a moated dwelling-house of the 15th century.
Excursions may also be made from Oxford to Dorchester (p. 219),
Wantage and the Vale of the White Horse (p. 107), Wychwood Forest
(10-12 M. to the N.W.), etc.
Boating on the Thames is a very favourite recreation at Oxford, two
of the favourite points for excursions being Iffley and Nvneham (see p. 218).
Another river-resort is Oodstow Nunnery, 2 M. above Oxford. The building
dates from the 12th cent., but the ruins are very scanty, and their chief
interest arises from the fact that Fair Rosamond was educated here. About
1 M. to the W. of Godstow is Wytham Abbey, an Elizabethan mansion on the
site of an early religious house. Visitors to the country round Oxford
should be familiar with Matthew Arnold's 'Thyrsis' and 'The Scholar Gypsy'.
The direct route from Oxford to Cambridge (77 M., in 3-4 hrs., fares
13s., 8s. 2d., 6s. 5d.) runs via Bletchley (see p. 250) and Bedford (p. 355).
The trains, however, are often slow and their connection imperfect; so
that it is almost as quick to go via, London.

33. From Oxford to Leamington, Warwick, and

Birmingham.
Kenil worth.
66 M. Gkeat Western Railway in l'/j-3'/4 hrs. (fares lis. 6d., Ss.Sd.,
5s. 6<J.). Through-trains from London to Birmingham by this route (129 M.)
take 274-4 hrs. (fares 17s. id., 13s. 6d., 9s. 5rf.).
After leaving Oxford the train makes its first halt at (572 M.
j
Woodstock Road, the station for Woodstock and Blenheim (p. 238).
241 > RouU3:i. LEAMINGTON. From Oxford

The park lies to the left. —

19 M. King's Sutton, with a fine church
containing an ancient -wooden pulpit (branch-line to Cheltenham,
p. 181).
23 M. Banbury (Red Lion; White Lion), an old town with
3600 inhab., on the Cherwell, famous for its cakes and ale. Ban-
bury Cross, immortalised in iiursery-ihynie, has recently been re-
stored. Of the old castle nothing now remains but the moat and a
fragment of the wall.
From Banbury branch-lines diverge to Blisworth (p. 251) and Bucking-
ham (p. 217). —
Among places of interest near Banbury are Broughton
Castle, Wroxton Abbey, and Compton Winyates.
From(31 /2M. ^Fenny Compton lines diverge to Stratford (p. 245)
1

on the left and to Towcester and Blisworth (p. 251) on the right.
The former passes near Edgehill, 5 M. from Fenny Compton and 2 M.
from Kineton station, where the first battle between the Eoyalists and
Parliamentarians took place in 1642. —About 3 M. to the S.W. of Mor-
ion Pinkney, on the line to Blisworth, is Sulgrave, the ancestral home of
the Washington family. The manor-house was built by Lawrence Wash-
ington about the middle of the 16th cent, and bears the Washington coat-
of-arms (conip. p. 187) on the porch. The distinguished American anti-
quary, Mr. Henry Waters, has almost conclusively proved George Washing-
ton's descent from the Sulgrave family.
To the left rise the Burton Dasset Hills.
42 M. Leamington. —Hotels. 'Regent, in the Parade; Clarendon,
Lansdowne Place; '-'Manor House, Avenue Road, near the stations, with
a yarden. —
Crown; Bath; Great Western, High St.; Avenue, 'pens'.
7s.; Guernsey Temperance. —
Numerous Boarding Souses and Lodgings.
Baths. "Royal Leamington Bath <£• Pump Rooms, Lower Parade, with
swimming basin and Turkish biitlis; Hudson's Sulphur & Saline Springs,
High St.; Old Spring Pump Room (Earl of Aylesford's), Bath St. ; Oldham's
Open-air Swimming Baths; Free Fountain (saline), Bath St.
Cabs. Per mile 1-2 pers. Is., 3-4 pers. Is. 6dl., each addit. Vs M. Gd.
;

per hour 2s. Gd., for each addit. */2 hr. Is. Each article of luggage car-
ried outside 2d!. —
Tramway to Milverton (2d.) and (2 M.) Warwick 0d.).
Leamington, or Leamington Priors, a well-built watering-place
with 23,000 inhab., is situated on the Learn, a tributary of the
Avon, which is here crossed by three bridges. The streets are wide
and pleasantly interspersed with trees and gardens. At the end of
last century Leamington was still a small village and it owes
,

its subsequent prosperity to the mineral springs discovered here in

1797. These are of three kinds, chalybeate, saline, and sul-
phureous, and are found efficacious for dyspepsia and affections of
the liver. The Royal Pump Room (see above) is adjoined by the
Pump Room Garden (free) opposite which are the tastefully laid
,

out *Jephson Gardens (adm. 3d. band). Leamington is also noted

;

for its schools, the chief of which is Leamington College.

The new Municipal Offices, a handsome Renaissance struct-
ure, with a campanile, are situated on the Parade, near the
middle of the town. The "'Church of All Saints is a modern Perp.
building in the form of a Greek cross and of a somewhat foreign
,

appearance. The well-proportioned interior contains a handsome

rcrodos. The church stands near the Victoria Bridge (view), over
the 'high-complexioned Leain'.
 to Birmingham. WARWICK. 33. Route. 241

Among the best points for short walks are Warwick Castle (p. 242),
2i/z M. to the W. ; Guy's Cliff (p. 243), 3 M. to the N.W. ; and Offchurch
Bury, with a fine park, 3 M. to the N.E. — The excursion to Kenilworth
(p. 243), 6 M. to the N.W., may be made by railway (see p. 242), but is
pleasanter by road. Guy's Cliff and Stoneleigh Abbey (p. 244) may be in-
cluded in the round. — Chesterton, 5 M. to the S., has a Perp. church.
Excursions may also be made from Leamington to Stratford-on-Avon
(p. 245), either by railway via. Warwick and Hatton (p. 244), or by road
(10 M.); to Coventry (p. 253), to Hampton Lucy, Compton Winyates, Compton
Verney, etc. The student of English history will find the battle-fields of
Evesham, Tewkesbury, Bosworth, Naseby, and Edgehill all within reach.
Feom Leamington to Coventry, 9 M., L.N. W. Railway in 25-30 min.
(fares Is. 6<J., Is., S l J2d.). The intermediate stations are (1 M.) Milverton,
and (5 M.) Kenilworth (see above). 9 M. Coventry, see p. 253.
From Leamington to Rugby, see p. 253.
Beyond Leamington the train crosses the Avon.
4472 M. Warwick (Warwick Arms, R. & A. 3s. dd.; Wool-
pack), a quaint old town with 11,800 inhab., situated on a hill
rising from the Avon. It is a place of great antiquity, having been
originally a British settlement, afterwards occupied by the Romans.
Legend goes back for its foundation to King Oymbeline and the
year one! Its present name is Saxon. Many of the houses have re-
tained their mediaeval appearance, and two of the old gates, the
East and West Oate, are still standing. The picturesque ivy-clad
house at the bottom of the main street, near the station, formerly
belonged to the Knights of St. John. From the station a footpath
leads to the old Priory of St. Sepulchre, now a private residence.
In the centre of the town is the Church of St. Mary (open 10-1
and 2-4), a large Perp. edifice, rebuilt after a fire in 1694. The
E. end escaped destruction. The exterior suffers from the poor
tracery of the windows in the rebuilt portion and from the in-
,

congruous parapet added to the roof. The tower has been restored.
The Interior makes a much more satisfactory impression, especially
the Chancel (1394), which contains two fine recumbent effigies of the
Beauchamp family (14th cent.) and some curious epitaphs on brasses in
front of the altar. A mural monument was erected in 1888 to Walter
Savage Landor (1775-1864), a native of Warwick. In the Chapter House,
to the H. of the choir, is the tomb of Fulke, Lord Greville (d. 1628), the
friend of Sir Philip Sidney. —
Below the choir is an interesting Norman
Crypt. — On the S. side of the choir is the chief glory of the church
the "Beauchamp Chapel (adm. 3d.), a florid Perp. structure of 1464, re-
calling the Chapel of Henry VII. at Westminster Abbey. Among the
numerous interesting monuments are those of Richard Beauchamp, Earl
of Warwick (d. 1499) , the builder of the chapel; Robert Dudley, Earl of
Leicester (d. 1588), the favourite of Queen Elizabeth, with his wife Lettiee;
Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick (d. 1589), the brother of the last; and
an infant son (the 'Noble Impe', says the inscription) of Lord Dudley.
The beauty of the first of these monuments shows that there was at
least one English sculptor of the time not unworthy of comparison with
his contemporaries, Donatello and Ghiberti.
Above the Market Hall, not far from the church, is the Museum,
containing collections of birds, fossils, and local antiquities (open
11 to 4 orf5; adm. 6<&, free on Mon. and Tues.).
At the W. end of the High St. beyond the Warwick Armse
,

is the Ley cester Hospital established by Lord Dudley for twelv,

,

Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 16

 ;

242 Route 33. WARWICK. From Oxford

poor brothers in 1571, in a quaint half-timbered building of earlier

date (open till 7 p. m. small fee to the Brother who acts as guide).
;

The quadrangle is very picturesque, and the building contains several

interesting relics, such as a Saxon chair, said to be 1000 years old, and
a piece of needle-work by Amy Eobsart. The Spanish cedar beams of
the hall look as white and fresh as if set up last week. The Bear and
the Ragged Staff, the cognizance of the Warwick earldom, is frequently
repeated, as in the Beauchanip Chapel (p. 241), and indeed throughout
the town. The chapel, built over the West Gate of the town (comp.
p. 241), is also older than Lord Dudley's foundation.

On a commanding position overlooking the Avon, at the S.E.

end of the town, rises *Warwick Castle, the ancient and stately
home Warwick. The castle which is one of the
of the Earl of ,

finest and most picturesque feudal residences in England, prob-

ably dates from Saxon times but the oldest portion now stand-
;

ing is the huge Cesar's Tower, nearly 150 ft. high, which
seems to have been built soon after the Norman Conquest. The
great bulk of the residential part belongs to the 14th and 15th
centuries. The roofs of the Great Hall and several other rooms
were restored in the old style after a destructive fire in 1871.
The outstanding event in the history of the castle is its success-
ful defence by the Parliamentarians during the Civil War. Visi-
tors are admitted to the castle after 10 a.m. by tickets (Is. each)
obtainable at a shop opposite the gate.
From the Porter's Lodge a short avenue cut in the solid rock leads to
the Outer Court, with Csesar's Tower (see above) to the left and Guy's
Tower (128 ft.) to the right. The top of the latter affords an admirable
"View; the dungeons below Oa?sar's Tower are interesting. The double
gateway between them leads to the beautiful "Inner Court, with its velvety
turf. Opposite us is the mound on which stood the original keep.
The Interior contains an interesting collection of paintings, old ar-
mour, and curiosities. In the Oreat Ball are the sword and other relics
of the legendary Count Guy of Warwick (comp. p. 243), the mace of
1
Warwick the 'King-Maker the helmet of Cromwell, and the armour in
,

which Lord Brooke was killed at Lichfield. The windows of this and
many of the other rooms afford fine views of the Avon. Among the paint-
ings are a portrait of Ignatius Loyola by Rubens (in the Gilt Drawing Room)
Charles I. by Van Dyck (in the Passage); and several other portraits by
the same masters. In the Cedar Drawing Room is a fine Venetian mirror,
and in the Gilt Drawing Room an inlaid table of great value.
On issuing from the interior we are conducted by another commis-
sionnaire to the Conservatory, which contains the famous -Warwick Vase,
found in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli. The beautiful "Park contains magni-
ficent cedars and other trees.
An admirable "View of the castle is obtained from the bridge over
the Avon, a little way from the lodge. 'We can scarcely think the scene
real', says Hawthorne, 'so completely do those machicolated towers, the
long line of battlements, the massive buttresses, the high-windowed walls,
shape out our indistinct ideas of the antique time'. — The view is per-
haps even better from an old mill, reached by the road descending
from the lodge to the river.
Warwick is a good centre for excursions, the most popular of
which are those to Kenilworth and Stratford, both reached either
by road or railway. Koute to Stratford, see p. 244. — To reach Kenil-
worth by railway we join the L.N.W. line at Milvcrton or Learning-
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* E A T x AX*

KENILWOBTH CASTLE
 to Birmingham. KENILWORTH. 33. Route. 243

ton (see p. 240) ; the railway-station at Kenilworth is 8/4 M. from

the castle. The pleasant road-route is described below.
Fkom Wakwick to Kenilworth, by road, 5 M. j carr. with one horse
there and back 9s. 6<Z., with two horses 20s., including the driver's fee.
A pleasant round may he made by returning via Stoneleigh Abbey and
Leamington (carr. for the round 15s., with two horses 25s.). —
The road
leads to the N., and soon reaches (l'/i M.) "Guy's Cliff, the seat of Miss
Bertie Percy, to which visitors are admitted in the absence of the family.
The name is derived from Guy, Earl of Warwick, whose feats in slaying
the Dun Cow (comp. p. 242) and other monsters form part of English
legendary lore. On the river, a little below the house, is a cave in which
he is said to have lived as an anchorite after his return from the Holy
Land, daily receiving alms from the Countess Felice, who did not recognize
her husband in his disguise. At his death, however, he revealed himself
to her, and the two were buried together in the cave in Guy's Cliff. Near
the cave is a small chapel. The house contains some interesting paint-
ings, including several by Bertie Qreatheed, son of a former owner of Guy's
Cliff, a highly-gifted young artist who died in 1804 at the age of 22. Mrs.
Siddons lived at Guy's Cliff for some time before her marriage, as com-
panion to the Mrs. Greatheed of the time. — A few yards down the road
which diverges to the right a little beyond the above-mentioned glade,
by a picturesque old mill said to be ot Saxon date , a beautiful view of
Guy's Cliff House is obtained. —
About V* M. farther on to the left, is
,

Blacklow Sill, on which is a monument to Piers Oaveston, the unfor-

tunate favourite of Edward II., who was slain here in 1312. —
In '/« M.
more we have a pretty view, to the left, of Wootton Court. We soon
reach (V2 M.) the village of Leek Wootton.
About l'/z M. farther on are the first houses ot Kenilworth (King's Arms
Inn, see below; Abbey; Castle, opposite the castle, indifferent), a small
straggling town with 4150 inhabitants. The castle is about 1 M. farther
on. The King's Arms Inn contains the room in which Walter Scott made
his first sketch of 'Kenilworth'. "Kenilworth Castle, one of the finest and
most extensive baronial ruins in England, was originally founded by
Geoffrey de Clinton, chamberlain of Henry I., about 1120. In the 13th
cent, it passed into the hands of Simon de Montfort, and was main-
tained for six months by his son against the royal forces (1266). In 1362
Kenilworth came by marriage to John of Gaunt, who added largely to
it. The castle afterwards became royal property, and in 1563 was pre-
sented by Queen Elizabeth to her favourite, the Earl of Leicester. Lei-
cester spent enormous sums of money in enlarging and improving the
building, and in 1575 entertained his royal patroness here in the magnificent
style immortalised by Scott. Cromwell gave the castle to some of his of-
ficers, who demolished the stately pile for the sake of its materials and
scattered its costly collections. After the Restoration it passed into the
hands of the Earls of Clarendon, who still retain it. Perhaps no other
English castle has had more varied points of contact with English history,
from the stormy and semi-barbarous times of Simon de Montfort down ,

through the pompous and courtly luxury of the Elizabethan period, to the
iconoclastic days of the Protectorate; while under the touch of the 'Magi-
cian of the North' it has renewed its youth in our own era, and, ruin
though it be, is more familiar and present to contemporary thought than
almost any occupied mansion in the country.
We enter (adm. 3d.) by a small gate to the N.W. of Leicester's Gate-
house (now occupied as a private dwelling), and passing along the wall
turn to the right and obtain a view of the main part of the building.
The part nearest us (to the right) is the Norman Keep or Caesar's Tower,
which seems to have had three or four stories; the walls are 15-16 ft.
thick. Beyond this, to the W., is a vacant space formerly occupied by
the Kitchen, crossing which we reach (at the N.W. angle) the Strong or
Mervyn's Tower, built by John of Gaunt (ca. 1392); the 'small octangular
chamber' on the second door is that assigned by Walter Scott to Amy
Robsart. The Pleasance, of which it 'commanded a delightful view',i
16*
244 Route 33. STONELEIGH.
now an orchard and vegetable garden. The grotto in which Amy was
discovered by the Queen adjoined the Swan Tower, at the apex of the
Pleasance. At right angles to Mervyn's Tower is the "Banqueting Sail,
also built by 'time-honoured Lancaster', with two fine oriels at its S. end.
The three apartments next in order, on the S. side of the quadrangle, are
known as the White Hall, the Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber,
and also date from the Lancastrian period. The large pile at the end,
with Tudor windows, was erected by the Earl of Leicester, and in spite
of its comparative youth needs support which the Norman keep disdains.
The buildings just described form the Inner Court; and the outer line
of defence, with the Swan, Lunn's, Water, and Mortimer Towers, may also
be traced. The Great Lake lay to the W. and S. of the outer wall; and
the Tilt- Yard lay outside Mortimer's Tower, at the S.E. angle of the
enclosure. The Chapels ,those of the original Norman building and of
John of Gaunt, have disappeared. Comp. the Plan.
If time permit, we may, before leaving Kenilworth, visit the ParishChurch,
with some Norman details, and the adjacent fragmentary ruins of Kenil-
worth Priory, founded by Geoffrey de Clinton (p. 243).
About 3 M. to the E. of Kenilworth is Stoneleigh Abbey, the seat of
Lord Leigh, a large mansion erected last century. It occupies the site
of a Cistercian abbey, of which a gateway (16th cent.) remains, and con-
tains a good collection of paintings and some fine wainscoting (state
rooms shown to visitors). Fine oaks in the park. —
About 6 M. to the N.W.
of Warwick 4 M. from Kenilworth and 2>/2 M. from Kingswood (see
,

below) is Wroxhall, a modern mansion, incorporating some remains of

,

a priory of the 12th century. The church is also interesting.

Excursions may also be made from Warwick to Leamington (p. 240),
Edgehill (p. 240), Coventry (p. 253), etc.
Beyond Warwick the train quits the valley of the Avon. —
49 M. Hatton the junction of a line to Stratf ord-on - Avon (see
,

below). —
53 M. Kingswood ; 551/2 M. Knowle, with an Idiot Asy-
lum and a handsome church 58Y2 M. Solihull (George), a prettily
;

situated village with an interesting restored church, in the Dec. and

Perp. styles. The train then passes two or three other small sta-
tions and traverses the manufacturing suburbs of Birmingham.
G6 M. Birmingham (Snow Hill Station), see p. 254.

34. From Warwick to Stratford-on-Avon.

W/2 M. Railway in 1/2 hr. (fares 2*. Sd., Is. 9d., Is. I1/2 <*.). Carriages are
changed at Hatton. — Warwick is 8M. from Stratford by the direct road
on the right bank of the Avon, and 10 M. by the pleasanter road on the
left hank. Carriage with one horse 8-10i., with two horses 15-20s.
Stratford may also be reached by railway from Fenny Compton (p. 240),
Honeybourne (p. i87), and Broom Junction (p. 188)

a. By Raihoay.
From Warwick to (i 1 /^ M.) Hatton, see above. —
Our train
here diverges to the left (S.) from the main G. W. It. line to Bir-
mingham. — 6^2 M. Claverdon; 10 M. Bearley, the junction of a line
to (7 M.) Alcester (p. 188); U1/2 M. Wilmcote, the birthplace of
Mary Arden, Shakespeare's mother.
1 4-
'/2
,\T. Stratford-on-Avon, see below. Beyond Stratford the
railway is continued to Honeyhourne (p. 1>S7).
 ;

STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 34. Roule. 245

b. By Road.
We leave Warwick by the road leading past the Leycester
Hospital (p. 241), and at first follow the right bank of the Avon.
At the fork we keep to the left, soon seeing to the right the spire of
the fine new church of Sherborne. At (2 M.) Barford we cross the
river, and about l 1 /^ M. farther on we pass the village of Wasperton
(to the right) with a restored church.
, —
About i/2 M. beyond
Wasperton our road diverges to the right from the high-road and ,

reaches (1 M.) Charlecote and the N. extremity of Charlecote Park

(see p. 247 view of the house to the right). The road now skirts
;

the E. side of the park and then (% M.) turns to the right and
skirts its S. side. After s /t M. we pass the lodge-gate at the S.W.
angle of Charlecote Park. The pretty village of Alveston lies among
trees to the right, H/2 M. farther on in a loop of the river, of
,

which the road forms the chord. %

M. Tiddinglon, with some
quaint old houses. After I1/4 M. more we reach the bridge leading
across the Avon to Stratford. —
The direct route from Warwick to
Stratford (8 M.) follows the right bank of the Avon but at some
,

distance from the river.

Stratford-on-Avon (Red Horse, see p. 247; Shakespeare Hotel,
with rooms named after Shakespeare's plays, R. & A. 4s. 6d., table
d'hote 58. ;Temperance next door to the Red Horse Falcon, un-
, ;

pretending Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is a clean and well-built little

;

country-town of about 8200 inhab., with wide and pleasant streets

containing numerous quaint half-timbered houses. It is a place
of some antiquity and is mentioned in a Saxon charter of the
,

8th century. Though not without importance as an agricultural

centre it owes its prosperity chiefly to the memory of the great
,

dramatist born here in 1564, whose name and form have been im-
ported, in one shape or another, into the trade-mark of almost
every saleable article in the townt. It is a singular fact that the
annual number of pilgrims to Stratford-on-Avon does not exceed
13,000 or 14,000 (mainly Americans), while over 30,000 annually
visit the birthplace of Burns (comp. p. 481). Visitors are recom-
mended to purchase the map of the town (price 2d.), published at
'Ye Five Gables', Chapel St.
^Shakespeare's House, in which the poet was born on April
23rd, 1564, is in Henley St. it is now national property, and is
;

kept in scrupulously good order. It is open to visitors from

9 a.m. to 8 p. m. in summer, and till dusk in winter (adm. (id.

t 'I am sure, sir', said a worthy Stratfordian to Mr. J. W.

Hales, 'we
ought to be very much obliged to Mr. Shakespeare for being born here,
for I don't know what we should have done without him'. —
To write
about Stratford is to write about Shakespeare, and the day has long
gone by when it was possible to confine the poet, as Dugdale the antiquary
did, to three lines at the end of a long article: 'One thing more in refer-
ence to this ancient town is observable, that it gave birth and sepul-
ture to our late famous poet, Will Shakespeare'.
 246 Route 34. STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
museum 6d. extra). The house has undergone various vicissitudes
since Shakespeare's day, but the timber framework remains sub-
stantially unaltered, and the recent restoration has been directed
towards a reproduction of the building at it stood in 1564.
Interior. The small chamber facing the street, on the first floor,
has been consecrated by tradition as that in which the poet was born. For-
merly the walls of all the rooms were covered with the inscribed names
of visitors; but these were concealed with whitewash during the reno-
vation of the building in 1864. An exception, however, was made in
favour of the birth-room, where the signatures of Walter Scott (scratched
on the window), Byron, Thackeray, Tennyson, Kean, and Dickens are
pointed out. No new names are now allowed to be added. The back-room
on the upper floor contains a very interesting old portrait of Shakespeare
(the 'Stratford Portrait'), formerly in the possession of the Clopton family
(see below), and showing the poet in the same dress as in the bust at the
church (p. 247). Below the Kitchen, on the ground-floor, is a dark Cellar,
probably the only room in the building that has not been changed since
the poet's boyhood. — The rooms to the right on the ground- floor are
fitted up as a Shakespeare Museum, and contain a most interesting collection
of portraits , early editions , and other relics of the great dramatist, in-
cluding his schooi-desk and signet-ring. — The Garden at the back of the
house contains a selection of the trees and flowers mentioned in Shake-
speare's plays.
From Henley St. we may now pass through HighStreet, where, on
the right, picturesque half-timbered house, bearing the date
is a
1596, and said to have been the home of the Harvard family, of
which the founder of the famous American university was a scion.
At the corner of Chapel Street, to the left, is the Town Hall, on the
outside of which is a statue of Shakespeare; inside are portraits of
Shakespeare by Wilson and Garrick by Qainsborough (small fee).
At the other end of Chapel St., also to the left, is New Place,
the site of the house in which Shakespeare resided on his return
to Stratford in later life, and where he died on April 23rd, 1616.
In the middle of last century, the house, said to have been built by
Sir Hugh Clopton about 1530, came into the possession of the Bev. Francis
Gastrell, who razed it to the ground owing to a quarrel about the r;ites,
having previously cut down the poet's mulberry-tree to save himself from
the importunities of visitors! The adjoining house (adm. 6<j.) contains
another but less interesting Shakespeare Museum throiigh which we ob-
,

tain access to a small garden with the foundations of Shakespeare's house,

an old well, and a thriving scion of the mulberry. —Behind (entr. from
Ch;ipel Lane) are the New Place Public Gardens (open all day, free Sun. 2-6).
;

Opposite New Place, at the corner of Chapel Lane and Church

St., stands the Guild Chapel, rebuilt by Sir Hugh Clopton (sec
above) and still, like the parish-church and the grammar-school,
externally much the same as in the poet's days. It is adjoined by
the old Guild Hall, where Shakespeare may often have seen the
performances of strolling players; while the upper story, substan-
tially unchanged, is the Grammar School in which he was educated,
founded in the second half of the 15th century.
At the end of Church St. we turn to the left and follow the road
named Old Town to the *Church of the Holy Trinity, a 15th cent,
edifice, with a lofty spire, charmingly situated amid trees on the
bank of the Avon. The church (adm. 6d.) has lately been restored.
 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 34. Route. 247

The imposing 'Interior contains many monuments of interest; but

'the mind refuses to dwell', as Washington Irving says in his well-
known sketch, 'on anything that is not connected with Shakespeare.
His idea pervades the place; the whole pile seems but as his mau-
soleum. The feelings, no longer checked and thwarted by doubt,
here indulge in perfect confidence; other traces of him may be false or
dubious, but here is palpable evidence and absolute certainty'. The
Grave of the poet is on the N. side of the chancel, and is covered by a
slab bearing an oft-quoted inscription, attributed to himself (of which
'rubbings' may be obtained in the town, price 1».). On the wall above
is the familiar Bust, executed soon after Shakespeare's death by Gerard
Johnson. The original colouring has been reproduced. The stained-
glass window above, representing the Seven Ages, was erected with the
contributions of American visitors. — Close to Shakespeare's tomb are those
of his wife, Anne Hathaway (d. 1623); his daughter, Susan Hall {A.
1619); his son-in-law, Dr. Hall; and Thomas Nash, the first husband of
his granddaughter Elizabeth. — Among the other monuments are several
of the Clopton Family, and the altar-tombs of Dean Balsall, the builder
of the chancel, and John Combe, the money-lender. — Within the altar-
rails is the font in which Shakespeare was christened.
The visitor should request the verger to show the registers containing
the entries of Shakespeare's baptism and funeral, and also the autograph-
book in which he has collected the signatures of the most eminent of
recent visitors to the church.
The one jarring note in Stratford is the Shakespeare Memorial
Theatre (6d.), a building, erected in 1879, in the spick-and-span
red brick and terracotta style which is associated with industrial
museums. It lies on the Avon a little above the church, at the end
of Chapel Lane. Annual memorial performances are held here in
April. The institute includes a gallery of Shakespearian paintings
and a library of Shakespearian books. Visitors should ascend the
tower for the *View of Stratford. — Higher up is the 'great and
sumptuous Bridge upon the Avon', built by Sir Hugh Clopton
(p. 246). It commands a charming *View up and down the Avon.
In Bridge Street, which leads from the bridge into the town,
is the Bed Horse Hotel, containing the room in which Washington
Irving wrote his delightful paper on Stratford-on-Avon. The chair
he sat in and the poker with which he meditatively poked the fire
are still shown as 'Geoffrey Crayon's Throne and Sceptre'.
About 1 M. to the W. of Stratford is Shottery, which is best reached
by a footpath, starting either from Evesham Place, or from a point near
the G. W. R. Station. "Anne Hathaway'* Cottage is still standing here in
substantially the same condition as when Shakespeare courted his future
wife. It has now been divided into three dwellings, and the one nearest
the road is still occupied by a descendant of the Hathaway family (Mrs.
Baker). It contains an old settle, a carved bedstead, some 'ever-lasting
linen sheets', and other relics of 300 years since. In front of the cottage
is a small garden, gay with old-fashioned flowers. — From Shottery the
walk may be continued to Luddington, where Shakespeare was married,
2 M. to the S.W. The church has, however, been rebuilt.
An excursion should also be made to Charlecote, the mansion where,
according to the story, Shakespeare was brought up before Sir Thomas
Lucy for deer-stealing, still occupied by a descendant and namesake
(H. S. Lucy, Esq.) of that worthy 'Justice Shallow'. Visitors are freely
admitted to the park, but a special permission (apply beforehand in
writing) is required for the house. We cioss the bridge over the Avon,
turn to the left, pass through Tiddington and Alveston (comp. p. 246),
and reach (S'/a M.) the lodge-gate of Charlecote. Passing through the gate
248 Route 35. HARROW. From London

and crossing the park, which is still well-stocked with deer, we soon
come in sight of the house, an extensive red brick building in the Eliza-
liethan style, containing some good paintings. Visitors not provided with a
special permit should not cross the small stream (lowing past the house.
To the left is visible the spire of Hampton Lucy Church, a handsome
structure by Eickman and Scott, which may be reached by turning to the
left on leaving the park at the other end. —
Charlecole Church (comp. p. 245)
contains several monuments of the Lucy family, including one to the wife
of Sir Thomas Lucy (see p. 247), with a fine epitaph, ascribed to the
knight himself, which should go far to prove that Shallow, if indeed
meant for Sir Thomas, is a caricature of the original.
All lovers of Shakespeare will find much that is most suggestive and
interesting in the quaint little villages around Stratford; and longer ex-
cursions may be made to Warwick (p. 241), Leamington (p. 240), Kenil-
worth (p. 243), Evesham (p. 18T), Edgehill (p. 240), etc.

35. From London to Harrow, Bickmannsworth, and

Chesham.
26 II. Railway from Baler Street Station in I-I1/4 hr. (fares 3s. iOd.,
2s. IOd., Is. iid.). This line is a recent extension of the St. John's Wood
branch of the Metropolitan Railway.
Passing the suburban stations of St. John's Wood, Marlborough
Road, Swiss Cottage, Finchley Road, West Hampstead, Kilburn-
Brondesbury, and Willesden Green, the train quits London and
enters a pleasant open country. To the N. of (6 M.) Kingsbury-
Neasden, with the works of the Metropolitan Railway Co., lies the
Brent or Welsh Harp Reservoir.
10 M. Harrow-on-the-Hill (King's Head; Railway Hotel). The
large Public School here, founded by John Lyon, yeoman, in 1572,
is scarcely second to Eton, and has numbered Lord Byron, Sir Rob-
ert Peel, Sheridan, Spencer Perceval, Viscount Palmerston, and
numerous other eminent men among its pupils. The older portion
of the school is in the Tudor style. The chapel, library, and speech-
room are all quite modern. The panels of the great school-room are
covered with the names of the boys, including those of Byron,
Peel, and Palmerston. The number of scholars is now about 500.
Harrow Church has a lofty spire, which is a conspicuous object in
the landscape for many miles round. The churchyard commands a
most extensive *View. A flat tombstone, on which Byron used to
lie when a boy, is still pointed out. —
12 '/a M. Pinner (Queen's
Head, a quaint 'Queen Anne' building), a prettily situated little
town with 2500 inhabitants. A little to the W. lie Ruhlip Park
and Reservoir. —
About 3 M. to the S.W. of (147s M.) Northwood
lies Harefleld, the scene of Milton's 'Arcades'.
18 M. Rickmansworth (Swan ; Victoria), a small paper-making
town (5500 inhab.) on the Chess, near its confluence with the Colne,
is a good centre for excursions. Large quantities of water-cress are
grown here for the London market. To the S.E., on the other side
of the Colne, lies Moor Park (Lord Ebury), -with its fine timber.
Walkers are advised to quit the railway here and proceed to (9'/2 M.)
fbesh-im on foot through the "Valley of the Chess. We turn to the right
on leaving the station, pass under the railway arch, follow a path to the
 to Chesham. CHESHAM. 35. Route. 249
left,cross the railway by a foot-bridge, and enter Riekmansworth Park,
with its fine old trees. The walk across the park brings us in 25 min.
to a road, which we cross obliquely to a meadow-path leading to (1/4 hr.)
the high-road to Chenies, at a point near the village of Ghorley Wood 0/2 M.
from the station, see below). About l 3/4 M. farther on we turn to the ri»ht
(sign-post) for (1/2 M.) the picturesque and neatly built villige of Chenies
("Bedford Inn). The "Mortuary Chapel attached to the church here contains
the tombs of the Russells from 1556 to the present day, forming an almost
unique instance in England of a family burial-place of this kind (admission
only by order obtained at the Bedford Estate Office, Montague Street,
Kussell Square, London; key kept by Mr. White, whose house adjoins
the above-mentioned sign-post). The finest monument is that of "Anne,
Countess of Bedford (d. 1558), the builder of the chapel. Lord William
Russell (beheaded in 1683) and Lord John Russell (d. 1878) are both buried
here. Adjoining the church is a fragment of the old manor-house. —
To
reach Chesham we follow the lane between the church and the manor-
house, and then turn to the left along a path through wood on the slope
of the valley of the Chess. View of the Elizabethan mansion of Latimeri,
on the other side of the stream. After about '/< hr. we pass through two
gates. 20 min. Lane, leading to the left to Chalfont Road station (see be-
low). In 10 min. more we descend to the right to the road and follow it
to the left to (2 M.) Chesham (see below).
A pleasant walk may also be taken from Riekmansworth to (5 M.)
Chalfont St. Giles (see below).
20 M. Chorley Wood and (22 M.) Chalfont Road are each about
iy2 M. from Chenies (see above). They are also nearly equidistant
(3-3 l l2 M.) from the charming little village of Chalfont St. Giles,
containing the cottage in which Milton lived in 1665-68, finishing
'Paradise Lost' and beginning 'Paradise Regained'. It has been
left unchanged since the poet's time and contains a few relics (adm.
Qd., a party 3d. each). About 3 M. to the S. of Chalfont St. Giles,
on the way to Beaconsfield (see Baedeker's London) is Jordans, ,

the burial-place of William Penn (A. 1718). —

The present terminus
of the railway is at (26 M.) Chesham (Crown; George), a quaint
old town with 9000 inhab., mainly employed in the manufacture
of furniture and other articles in beech- wood, cricket-bats, etc.
Ducks and water-cress are also extensively produced. Fine view
from the Park.
Amersham (Griffin; Crousn), 3 M. to the S. of Chesham, with 2500
inhab., is another seat of the beechwood-chair industry.

36. From London to Birmingham

via Rugby and Coventry.
113 M.L.N. W. Railway (Euston Station) in 2 3/4-3»/2 hrs. (fares 17s. id.,
13s. Gd., 9*. 5c?.). Luncheon-baskets may be obtained at Euston and the
other chief stations. The country traversed is somewhat monotonous.
Beyond Camden Town, with the principal dep6t of the North
Western Railway, and Chalk Farm the train threads the Primrose
,

Hill Tunnel, 1160 yds. long. Near (3 M.) Kilbum is another tun-
nel, after which we see Kensal Green Cemetery (see Baedeker's Lon-
don) on the left. —
572 M. "Willesden (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), an
important railway-junction, passed daily by 700 trains. Beyond
(8 M.) Sudbury a view is obtained to the left of Harrow- on-the-Hill.
IIV2 M.. Harrow; the station is 1 M. from the town of Harrow-
'250 Route :i(i. DUNSTABLE. From London

on-the-Hill (p. '248). —

Near (13i/2 M.) Pinner (jp. 248), to the right,
are the red brick buildings of the Commercial Travellers' Schools.
Beyond Pinner we notice the ingenious arrangement by which the
locomotives supply themselves with water, without slackening
speed, from troughs laid down between the rails. — 16 M. Bushey.
— 17^2 M- Watford (Clarendon; Maldon) is pleasantly situated
on the Colne among the woods of Cassiobury (Earl of Essex) and
,

the Grove (Earl of Clarendon). A pretty public walk crosses the

park of the former, but neither house is shown. Watford is the junc-
tion of a line to (7 M.) St. Albans (see p. 357), and of another to
(4 M.) Rickmansworth (p. 24S). —
We now pass through another
tunnel, upwards of 1 A I. long, and cross the Grand Junction Canal.
— 24^2 M. Boxmoor, the station for Hemel Hempstead. — 28 M.
Berkhampstead; in the pretty valley to the left lies the town of
Great Berkhampstead (King's Arms), birthplace of the poet Cowper
(1731-1800), with the remains of a castle and a Dec. church. As
the train approaches (32 M.) Tring (Rose & Crown), a small and
ancient town with a handsome church, we obtain a view of the
Chiltern Hills, which give name to the 'Stewardship of the Chiltern
Hundreds', a nominal office conferred upon members of parliament
wishing to resign their seats.
About 2'/2 M. to the W. of Tring is Drayton Beauchamp, where the
'Judicious Hooker' was rector (1585), when visited by Cranmer and Sandys,
as narrated by Izaak Walton.

Beyond Tring the train traverses the Chiltern Hills by a deep

cutting and enters Buckinghamshire. 36 M. Cheddington is the
junction of a line to Aylesbury (p. 217). — 40V2 M. Leighton is
the station for Leighton Buzzard ('Beau Desert'; Swan), a small
town V2 M- t° the W., with an E. E. church and a market-cross.
About S l /2 M. to the S. (1 M. from Cheddington) is Mentmore, a seat
of Lady Rosebery (ne'e Rothschild), containing a fine collection of paint-
ings, tapestries, etc. (access sometimes obtainable on written application).
Fbom Leighton to Dunstable and Luton, II1/2 M., railway in i/a-1 hr.
(fares Is. 10d., Is. Gd., ll 1 /^.). —
6 M. Dunstable (Sugurloaf; Red Lion;
Saracen's Head), a town with 4600 inhab. and manufactories of straw
bonnets and baskets. Dunstable larks are sent in large quantities to
London. The Priori/ Church (restored) is a fine Kurman building, dating
in part from the reign of Henry I. (1100-35). Charles I. slept at the Red
Linn Inn here when on his way to Naseby. — ll'/a M. Luton, see p. 357.
From Leighton an excursion may be made to Woburn ('Bedford Arms),
7 M. to theN., with an ivy-clad church. Woburn Abbey, the seat of the
Duke of Bedford, built in 1747 on the site of a Cistercian abbey, contains
a good collection of art (shown on Frid. 10-4, by order obtained at the Park
,

Farm office). The large deer-park and pleasure-grounds are also very fine.
47 M. Bletchley (Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), the junction of lines to
Oxford (p. 223) on the left, and to Bedford (p. 355) and Cam-
bridge (p. 431) on the right. Woburn (see above) is about 5 M. to
the E. of Bletchley. —
52 M. Wolverton (Victoria Rail. Rfmt.
;

Rooms), on the Owe, with the carriage - building works of the

L.N. W.R., is the junction for (4 M.) Newport Pagnell (Anchor;
Swan), a small lace and paper-making town, with a large church.
 to Birmingham. NORTHAMPTON. 36. Route. 251

A steam-tramway runs from Wolveiton to (2 M.) Stoney Stratford

and Deanshanger. The train then crosses Wolverton Viaduct and
enters the well-wooded county of Northampton. At (60 M.) Boade
the line.£orks, the old trunk-line running straight to Rugby, while
a new loop-line runs to the right via Northampton rejoining the
,

main line just before Rugby.

The first station on the main line beyond Roade is (63 M.)
Blisworth (Hotel), the junction of a line to Towcester and Strat-
ford-on-Avon (comp. p. 240), of another to Banbury (p. 240),
and of a short one to Northampton (see below). Beyond Blisworth
the train crosses the Grand Junction Canal, and soon after threads a
tunnel 500 yds. long. 70 M. Weedon, with extensive barracks, a
powder-magazine, and a large military depot, is the junction of a
line to Daventry. The line here follows the direction of theold
Roman road known as Watting Street. Beyond (76 M.) Welton a is

tunnel l l fo M. long, on emerging from which the line enters "War-

wickshire and is rejoined by the loop-line above mentioned. Rugby
(see p. 252) is reached almost immediately afterwards.

Leaving Roade (see above) by the loop-line, we pass through

a cutting and a short tunnel and soon reach —
66 M. Northampton. —
Hotels. George, Peacock, in the Market
Place; Angel, Plough, Bridge St. — Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms.
Cabs. From the railway -stations into the town, with luggage,
1-2 pers. Is., 3 pers. Is. 6d., 4 pers. 2s.; beyond the borough, Is. per mile.
Railway Stations. Castle Station, on the S.W. side of the town, for
the L. N. W. trains; Bridge St. Station (L. N. W.), for trains to Peter-
borough; Midland, near the centre of the town, for trains to Bedford.
Northampton, the capital of the shire of that name is a well-
,

built town with 57,555 inhab. situated on the N. bank of the Nene,
,

and widely known for its manufactures of boots and shoes. It is

a place of considerable antiquity, and was the seat of numerous par-
liaments in the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries. In 1460 the Lan-
castrians were defeated near Northampton and Henry VI. taken
,

prisoner by the Earl of Warwick.

The busiest parts of Northampton are the Drapery and the large
Market Square. Among the buildings adjoining the latter are the
Gothic Town Hall, built in 1864; the Corn Exchange ; and the
church of All Saints, with a tower of the 14th cent, and containing
a statue, by Chantrey, of Spencer Perceval, who was assassinated
in the lobby of the House of Commons in 1812. St. Peter's Church,
restored by Sir G. G. Scott, is an interesting Norman structure
(p. xxxix). The remains of the old Castle, built in the 11th cent.,
are scanty. The Castle Hill Chapel contains a tablet to Dr. Dod-
dridge, the Nonconformist theologian, who ministered here for 22
years. The old Hospital of St. John also deserves attention.
The most interesting building in Northampton is, however, the
*Church of St. Sepulchre, supposed to have been built by Simon de
252 Route 36. RUGBY. From London

Liz at the beginning of the 12th cent., and one of the few round
ohuTches of England, (comp. pp. 437, 442). This church, which
lies to the N. of the town, contains numerous E.B. additions, in-
cluding a fine spire, and has been restored by Scott.
About 1 M. to the S. of Northampton is "Queen Eleanor's Cross, the
best survivor of those which Edward I. erected at every point where the
body of his wife rested on its way to interment in Westminster. Not
far off is Delapre Abbey, on the site of an old Cluniac religious house. —
Althorp, the seat of Earl Spencer, 5 M. to the N.W. of Northampton,
contains some good pictures (including a fine series of family-portraits by
Reynolds, Van Dyck, Kneller, Lely, etc.) and a magnificient and celebrated
collection of rare and curious books, including many incunabula. Near
Althorp is Burleston, an interesting experiment in co-operative farming. —
Excursions may also be made to Earl's Barton and Castle Ashby (see below).
From Northampton to Market Harborough, 18M., railway in'/2- 3/4hr.
(fares 2s. 9d., Is. lid., Is. 5V2<J.). The kennels of the celebrated Pytchley
Hunt are at (8 M.) Brixworth, which possesses a large church, perhaps formed
out of a Roman building (p. xxxv). — 18 M. Market Harborough, see p. 354.
From Northampton to Peterborough, 42 M., railway in i'/^l'A hr.
—
(fares 6*. 10<*., 4s. 5d., 3s. &/-2 d.). About 2 M. to the S. of (6M.) Ashby is Castle
Ashby, the seat of the Marquis of Northampton, the gardens of which are
open on Tues. and Thurs. (house on Tues.). Yardley Chase, the park be-
longing to it, has a circumference of 7 M. Ashby is also the station fur
(l l /4 M.) EarVs Barton, famous for its church with a pre-Norman tower
(p. xxxvi). Winston, near Ashby, has an interesting church (see p. Hi).
— 10 M. Wellingborough, see p. 355. — 14 M. Itigham Ferrers (Green Dragon),
1 M. from the station, was the birthplace of Abp. Chichele (1362-1443) and
contains a handsome church, a school, a college, and other buildings erected
by him. — 21 M. Thrapstow, the junction of lines to Huntingdon and Ketter-
ing (p. 354). —
26 M. Oundle (Talbot), a small town on the Nene, withanE.E.,
Dec., and Perp. church. At Fotheringay, 3'/2 M. to the N., Mary, Queen of
Scots, was tried and executed. The castle was destroyed by James I., but
the interesting Perp. church remains. Warmington, 2 M. to the S. E. of
Fotheringay, has a good EE. church (p. xlv). —
42 M. Peterborough, see p. 362.
From Northampton to Bedford, see p. 355.
Beyond Northampton the Rugby train passes stat. Althorp
Park (see above). To the left is Great Brlngton Church, containing
some brasses of the Washington family (comp. p. 240). Beyond
Kilsby we rejoin the main line (comp. p. 251).

83 M. Rugby [Royal Oeorge; Horseshoes; Laurence Sheriffe's;

Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms; cab to the town, l-2pers. Is., each addit,
pers. 6d.), a town with 9890 inhab., 1 M. from the station, is an
important railway-junction (the 'Mugby Junction' of Dickens). It
appears in Domesday Book as 'Rocheberrie' and in Elizabeth's
time as 'Rokebie'. The famous School, founded by Laurence Sheriffe
in 1567, and provided with endowments which now bring in 7000J. a
year, is attended by 60 foundationers and 350-400 other boys. Its
most interesting associations cluster round the name of Dr. Thomas
Arnold, who was head-master here from 1828 to 1842 and is buried
in the chapel. The scene of 'Tom Brown's School Days' is laid at
Rugby. St. Andrew's is a 14th cent, building, restored by Mr. Butter-
field. Rugby is a good hunting-centre. —
About IV2M. to the E. of
Rugby is Hilton Hall, where Addison long resided; an avenue in
the garden is known as Addison's Walk.
 to Birmingham. COVENTRY. Route. 36. 253

From Rugbx to Leamington, 15 M., railway in '/a hr. (fares 2». 6cJ.,
3d). The intermediate stations are Dunchurch,
Is. 9d., Is. Birdingbury, and
Marlon. — 15 M. Leamington, and thence to Warwick, see pp. 240, 241.
From Rugby to Nuneaton and Stafford, see R. 44a. This line forms
part of the through-route of the L.N.W.R. from London to Liverpool.
From Rugbt to Market Harborough, 17'/2 M., railway in Vs-'A hr.
—
(fares 3s. 2d., Is. ltd., Is. 5'/2<*.). About 4 M. to the E. of Stat. Yelvertoft
is the field of Naseby, where Charles I. was defeated by Cromwell in 1645.
— 17'/2 M. Market Harborough, see p. 354.
From Rugby to Leicester, 20 M., railway in 3/< hr. (fares 2». 8d.,
Is. 8d.). 8 M. Ullesthorpe, see p. 354. — Leicester, see p. 352.

At Rugby our line diverges to the left from the main through-
route of the North Western Railway from London to Liverpool (see
R. 44a). After passing (89 M.) Brandon & Wolston, we soon see
the three graceful spires of Coventry.
94 M. Coventry (Queen's King's Head; Craven Arms), an an-
;

cient city with 47,370inhab., possesses extensive manufactories of

ribbons and watches, and is famous for its artistic work in metal.
It is also the headquarters of the manufacture of bicycles and
tricycles, an industry that has now attained important dimensions.
The early history of Coventry is Tather obscure, but a religious house
of some kind seems to have existed here in the time of Canute. Accord-
ing to the well-known legend (versified by Tennyson) Coventry received
its municipal independence in the 11th cent, from Leofric, Earl of Mercia,
through the self-sacrifice of his wife, Lady Godiva ('I, Lurichi, for the
love of thee, doe make Coventre tol-free'). Her memory is kept green
by a periodical procession and by a statue in St. Mary's Hall (see below),
while 'Peeping Tom' is pilloried in a bust at the corner of Hertford Street.
At a later date Coventry was the meeting-place of several parliaments,
and it became for a time (1102-85) a bishop's see, the beautiful cathedral-
1
church of which was destroyed by Henry VIII. The 'Coventry Plays
are a valuable collection of miracle-plays and mysteries performed here
in olden times. The phrase 'to send to Coventry' has never been quite
satisfactorily explained. No reminder is needed of the march through
Coventry of Falstaff and his ragged regiment.
Coventry contains many quaint old buildings and much to inter-
est the student of architecture and archaeology. Chief among these
are the churches of St. Michael and Holy Trinity, adjoining each
other on the E. side of the Cross Cheaping. *St. Michael's Church,
an edifice of red sandstone, is a noble specimen of the Perp. style,
with a spire, 300 ft. high, considered one of the finest in Europe
it was re-opened in 1890 after an extensive restoration. The in-
terior is of great breadth, being provided with double aisles, and is
adorned with numerous stained-glass windows, most of which are
modern. —
Trinity or the Priory Church, another fine Perp. struc-
ture, also has a lofty spire (237 ft.). It contains an interesting
stone pulpit of the 15th cent, and a curious old fresco. —
The third
of the 'three tall spires' of Coventry is that of the old Grey Friars
Monastery, to which the modern Christchurch has been attached. —
The Church of St. John, on theW. side of the town, is an interesting
14th cent, building, restored.
Among secular buildings the place of honour belongs to *St.
Mary's Offildhall, to the S. of St. Michael's, a singularly interesting
254 Route 36. BIRMINGHAM. From London

specimen of English municipal architecture in the middle ages

(14-15th cent). The great Hall (with its oaken roof and tapestry),
the Mayoress's Parlour, and the Kitchen are among the most
noteworthy rooms. —
Near St. John's is Bablake Hospital, and in
Grey Friars Lane is Ford's Hospital, two interesting examples of
the domestic style of the 16th century. —
Many of the narrow old
streets,which reminded Hawthorne of Boston, contain picturesque
houses with the upper stories jutting over the street. Near the —
station is a statue of Sir Thomas White.
In the Foleshill road, to the N. of Coventry, is the house in which
George Eliot {Mary Anne Evans; 1820-80) lived with her father before
his death; and Rosehill, where she frequently visited Mr. and Mrs. Bray,
is also close to the town. Arbury Farm, where she was horn, and Griff,
where she spent the first twenty years of her life, are between Coventry
and Nuneaton. —The Coventry Canal connects Coventry with Oxford on
the one side, and with the Mersey and Trent on the other.
Among the interesting points in the neighbourhood of Coventry are
Whitley Abbey, l'/2 M. to the E.; Stoneleigh Abbey (p. 244), 5 M. to the S;
Kenilworlh (see p. 243), 5 M. to the S.W. (a beautiful road); the Norman
church of Wyken, Z l jz M. to the N.E. ; and Combe Abbey, the seat of Lord
''raven, 4 M. to the E., where Elizabeth, daughter of James I., spent
part of her girlhood, and to which she retired after the death of her hus-
band, the Elector Frederick (King of Bohemia).
From Coventry to Leamington and Warwick, see p. 241.
From Coventry to Ndneaton, 9'/2 M., railway in 20-30 min. (fares
Is. Sd., is. 3d., 9V2<Z.). The only intermediate station of any note is (6'/aM.)
Bedworth, a small town with 5180 inhab. At (9 J /2 M.) Nuneaton (see p. 349)
the line joins the main route from London to Liverpool.
Beyond Coventry the view is much interrupted by numerous
deep cuttings. Beyond (99V2 M-) Berkswell, the church of which
has a NoTman crypt, the train crosses the Blythe by a fine viaduct.
Picturesque old bridge to the left. 103 M. Hampton is the junction
of a line to Tamxeorth (p. 188). At (109 M.) Stechford the direct
line to Walsall (p. 259) and Wolverhampton (p. 260) diverges to
the right. Soon afterwards the train enters the spacious New St.
Station at (113 M.) Birmingham.
Birmingham. —
Railway Stations. The Central or New Street
Station (PI. 1J,3, 4), New
Street, is one of the largest railway-stations in
the world with a fine iron and glass roof, 1100 ft. long, and
(11 acres),
sood refreshment-rooms. It is used by the L.N. W. trains for London
(via Coventry and Rugby), to Stafford, Crewe, Liverpool, and the North,
to Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Derby, etc., and also for the Midland trains
to London (via Leicester), Sheffield, Derby, Worcester, Gloucester, Bath,
Bristol, etc. — The Hill Station (PI. F, 1) of the G. W. Railway, also
Snow
with good refreshment-rooms, lies about tys M. to the N., and serves for
trains to London (via Warwick and Oxford), Worcester, Malvern, and
South Wales. —
There are also several suburban stations.
Hotels 'Qceen's (PI. a; D, 4), at the New St. Station; Great
Western (PI. b; F, 2), at Snow Hill Station, R. & A. 5s., D. 5s.; Grand
(PI. c; E, 2), Colmore Row; "Plough & Harrow, 135 Hagley Road, old-
fashioned, moderate charges; Colonnade (PI. f; D, 3), New St.; Cobden
(PI. d; E, 3), at the corner of Corporation St. and Cherry St., a large tem-
perance house, R. & A. 2s. Gd. 'ordinary' at 1.15 p.m. 2s.; Midland (PI. e;
D, 3), New St., commercial, R. & A. from 4s.; Stork (PI. g; F, 3), Cor-
poration St.; White Horse (PI. i; C, 1), at the corner of Congreve St.
and Great Charles St., unpretending; Swan (PI. h; K,4), at the corner of
New St. and High St., commercial; Acorn, Temple St. (PI. D 3) small.
Wagner *Debes' Ceog*Zstab*Ieip sic
 to Birmingham. BIRMINGHAM. 36. Itoute. 255

Restaurants. Birmingham Restaurant, 101 New

St. (PI. D, 3, E, 4);

Lissittr <t Miller, 20 Bennett's Hill (PI. D, Bryan, 62 New St. ; Pat-
2, 3) ;

tison, 7New Union Passage; Garden Restaurant,

St. and 54 High St. ; Nock,
with vegetarian dinners, 25 Paradise St. (PI. C, 2); Arcadian, 18 North
West Arcade (PI. F, 3), Corporation St. (fish-dinners); Refreshment Rooms,
at the Central and Snow Hill Stations; also at most of the hotels.
Cabs. For 1-2 pers., IV2 M., 1*.; per hour 2». 6d., each addit. >/4 hr.
6d. Double fare 12-6 a.m. For each package carried outside, 2d.
Tramways. Steam Tramways , Horse Tramways , and Omnibuses tra-
verse most of the principal streets and ply to points in the environs. The
chief starting-points are Old Square (PI. F, 3), John Bright Street (PI. C, 3),
Albert Street (PI. F, 4), and Suffolk Street (Pi. B, 4). —
A Cable Tramway
runs from Colmore Row to New Inn. —Electric Tramway from Wellington
Road to Bournbrook. — Fares 1-6<J.
Coaches generally ply in summer to Berkswell (p. 259) and other
places of local interest, starting from the Grand Hotel (p. 254).
Theatres. Theatre Royal (PI. D, 3), New St.; Prince of Wales (PI. A,
1), Broad St.; Grand (PI. G, 3), Corporation St.; Queen's (PI. F, 1), Snow
Hill. — Gaiety Concert Hall, Coleshill St.; Dcfy^s Music Hall, Smallbrook
St. (PI. C, 5); Canterbury Music Hall, Digbeth (PI. E, 5).
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. C, 2), Paradise St., opposite the Town
Hall; numerous branch-offices and pillar letter-boxes.
United States Consul, John Jarrett, Esq:., 53 Union Passage; vice-
consul, F. M. Burton, Esq.
Public Baths, all with first and second class swimming-baths and
hot and cold private baths: Kent Street Baths, with Turkish and vapour
baths; Woodcock Street Baths; Monument Road Baths, with Turkish and
vapour baths; Northwood Street Baths. Turkish balh 1»., first-class swim-
ming or warm bath 6d., second-class 3d. —
There are also Turkish and
Warm Baths in Broad St., High St. and the Crescent.
Birmingham (450 ft. above the sea), the fourth town of England
in size and population, and the see of a Roman Catholic bishop,
stands on a series of gentle hills in theN.W. corner of Warwickshire.
At the census of 1881 it contained 400,000 inhab., now about
450,000. In plan it is irregular, and many of its older streets are
narrow and crooked ; but much has been done to improve it within
the last 20-30 years by the erection of handsome buildings and the
formation of new and spacious thoroughfares. It is the chief centre
in England, if not in the world, of the manufacture of brass, iron,
and other metallic wares of all kinds, and it is the most important
industrial town in England after Manchester. In spite of its numerous
tall chimneys and often smoky atmosphere, Birmingham has the
reputation of being healthier than most large manufacturing towns.
In the social and political sphere Birmingham has always, with the
exception of the unhappy lapse of 1791 (p. 258), been distinguished as a
centre of liberality and freedom of thought. It claims to be 'the most
open and hospitable to ideas, to be regarded as the most fully developed
example of the English city of the future —
in a word as the city
wherein the spirit of the new time is most widely, variously, energeti-
cally assuming visible form and shape' (Macdonald). Nowhere has the
system of municipal government been more fully developed, and nowhere
has a municipality been more distinguished for enlightened promotion of
popular culture. Trades Unions were very powerful in Birmingham and
managed to a great extent to prevent the introduction of machinery. Hence
'the manufactures of Birmingham are to this day in a great degree con-
fined to those branches of industry which require comparatively a much
greater amount of manual labour than machinery' (Fawcett). About 200
separate trades are carried on by its 'small masters'.
256 Route 36. BIRMINGHAM. History.

The early history of Birmingham is very shadowy, hut it is not im-

probable that it occupies the site of a small Roman station on the Ick-
nield Way (p. 349). The name, which appears in Domesday Book as
'Bermingeha', is supposed to be derived from 'Berm' or 'Beorm', the name
of some Saxon tribe. During the middle ages it appears under the pro-
tection of the De Berminghams, whose connection with it ceases in 1546.
In 1538 it is described by Leland as a good market town with many
smiths 'that use to make knives and all mannour of cuttinge tooles and
many loriners that make bittes and a great many naylors'. In 1643 Bir-
mingham was taken and partly burned by Prince Rupert. Under Charles II.
it advanced rapidly, and its manufactures of firearms became considerable.
Birmingham owes its modern importance chiefly to the improvements in
steam-machinery carried out here by Watt and Boulton at the end of
last century, and to the use it was thus enabled to make of the adjacent
fields of coal and iron. In 1700 it contained only 15,000 inhab.; in 1801,
73,670; in 1841, 182,892; and in 1861, 296,076. Its main interest to
tourists is centred in a visit to some of its large industrial establish-
ments, most of which are willingly shown on previous application,
especially to anyone provided with an introduction. The industries
of Birmingham employ in all about 100,000 work-people and produce
goods to the annual value of 4 or 5 millions sterling. About 10,000 are
engaged in the manufacture of guns and rifles, producing upwards of
600,000 gun-barrels yearly. No fewer than 4 million military rifles were
proved here in 1855-64 (including the period of the Crimean War), and770,O0O
guns were sent from Birmingham to the United States during the Civil
War. Among the most interesting manufactories are the steel- pen
works of Gillott & Son, Graham St., and those of Messrs. Perry, 36 Lan-
caster St.; the 'Regent Works' of Manton, Shakespeare, & Co., Clissold
St., for making buttons ; the electro-plate manufactory of Elkington & Co.,
Newhall St. (PI. B, 1); the glass and crystal works of Osier, Broad St.
(PI. A, 1); the lighthouse lens and plate-glass works of Chance Brothers
& Co., Smethwick; Hardnian's stained-glass works in Newhall Hill; the
Gun-Barrel Proof-House, Banbury St.; the bronze-foundry and art metal-
works of Winfield & Co., Cambridge St. (PI. B, 1) ; the papier-mache
works of McCallum & Hodson, Summer Row (PI. C, 1); and the Bir-
mingham Small Arms Factory at Smallheath. Other important branches
of industry represented in Birmingham are the rolling and stamping of
iron and other metals, the manufacture of iron roofs and girders, the
making of steam-engines, machinery, tools, bolts, screws, rivets, wire,
pins, and small steel goods of all descriptions, jewellery, and the produc-
tion of chemicals. At Heaton's Mint and Metal Works, in Icknield St., a
great part of the bronze and copper money of England and many other
countries is coined. The same firm manufactures seamless copper tubes.
A lively account of Birmingham and its industries is given in Elilm
BurriCs 'Walks in the Black Country'. — 'The Arab sheikh eats his pillau
with a Birmingham spoon, the Egyptian pasha takes from a Birmingham
tray his bowl of sherbet, or illuminates his harem with glittering can-
delabra made of Birmingham glass, or decorates his yacht with cunningly
devised pictures painted by Birmingham workmen on Birmingham papier-
mdchi. The American Indian provides himself with food, or defends him-
self in war, by the unerring use of a Birmingham rifle; the luxurious
Hindoo loads his table with Birmingham plate, and hangs in his saloon
a handsome Birmingham lamp ; the swift horsemen who scour the plains
of South America urge on their steeds with Birmingham spurs, and deck
their gaudy jackets with Birmingham buttons ; the negro labourer hacks
down the sugar-cane with Birmingham hatchets, and presses the luscious
juice into Birmingham vats and coolers; the dreamy German strikes a
light for his everlasting pipe with a Birmingham steel and tinder, carried
in a Birmingham box; the emigrant cooks his frugal dinner in a
Birmingham saucepan, over a Birmingham stove, and carries his little
luxuries in tins stamped with the name of a Birmingham maker'.
The only public building in Birmingham that has any claim to
 St. Martin's. BIRMINGHAM. 36. Route. 257

antiquity is the "Church of St. Martin (PI. E, 5), an imposing Dec.

edifice, in the Bull Ring, originally dating from the 13th, hut re-
built in the present century. It contains the tombs of some of the
De Berminghams, the original lords of the manor (see p. 256). The
interior contains a fine stained-glass window by Burne Jones, a
native of Birmingham. In the Bull Ring, to the N. of the church,
is a monument to Nelson.
From St. Martin's the High St. leads to the N., passing the large
Market Hall on the left. Farther on, to the left, diverges NbwStbbet
(PI. E, 4, D, 3), the principal business - street of the town, with
most of the best shops. In it, immediately to the left, is the
handsome modern Tudor building, by Barry, in which the Grammar
School (PI. E, 4), founded by Edward VI. in 1552, is now installed.
Its endowments yield upwards of 26,000i. yearly, and several
branch-schools have been opened. Adjacent, also to the left, is the
Exchange, at the corner of Stephenson Place, a short street leading
to the Central Station (p. 254). Opposite diverges Corporation St.
(p. 258). New Street, farther on, passes the Theatre Royal (p. 255),
the Colonnade Hotel (p. 254), the Masonic Hall, and the Society of
Artists (right), and ends in an open space (PI. C, 2), round which
are grouped the most handsome modern buildings in Birmingham.
Immediately opposite the end of New St. is the —
*Town Hall (PI. C, 2), a large and imposing building in the
Corinthian style erected in 1832-50 in imitation of the temple
,

of Jupiter Stator at Rome, and somewhat recalling the Madeleine at

Paris and Girard College at Philadelphia, which were built after
the same model. It stands on a rusticated basement, 22 ft. high,
pierced with round-headed arches. The large hall in the interior,
145 ft. long, contains a fine organ with 4000 pipes and four man-
uals. A recital is usually given on Sat., at 3 p.m. (adm. 3d.). The
Triennial Musical Festival is celebrated here. — To the W. of the
Town Hall is the Birmingham and Midland Institute, in the Italian
style, containing lecture and reading rooms, and natural history and
industrial collections. The metallurgical school is especially im-
portant , and the penny lectures are a characteristic feature. It is
adjoined by the Central Free Library, which contains 104,000 vols.,
including a splendid collection of Shakespearian books (8600 vols.).
In Paradise Street opposite the Town Hall , is the General Post
,

Office, containing a statue of Sir Rowland Hill, who spent part of

his boyhood at Birmingham. To the W. of the post-ofnce, opposite
the Midland Institute , is Queen's College a school of medicine
,

and theology.
The imposing edflce to the N.E. of the Town Hall, at the end
of Colmore Row, is the new Council House, in the Grecian style,
completed in 1878 at a cost of 250,000Z. There is a fine mosaic
by Salviati above the entrance. The back part of this pile (entr.
from the side) contains the Corporation Art Gallery and Museum
Baedekeb's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 17
258 Route 36. BIRMINGHAM. Mason College.

(open free; on Mon., Tucs., Thurs., & Sat. 10-9, Sun. 2-5, Wed.
and Frid. 10-4 in winter and 10-6 in summer), among the chief
contents of which are a series of paintings by David Cox (1783-
1859 ; a native of Birmingham), a large collection of weapons,
and a collection of Wedgwood ware.
The small square at the hack of the Town Hall is embellished with
a Monumental Fountain, erected in honour of the Right Hon. Joseph Cham-
berlain, and statues of George Dawson (d. 1876), the essayist and lecturer,
and Sir Josiah Mason (see below). In Hatcliff Place is a statue of James
Watt (PI. C, 2; d. 1819), and at the end of New St. one of Sir Robert Peel
(d. 1850). In front of the Council House is a statue of Joseph Priestley
(1733-1804), the theologian and chemist, who was pastor of a Unitarian
Church in Birmingham for some years. In the 'Church and King Eiof
of 1791 his house, containing his valuable apparatus and MSS., was burned
down and he narrowly escaped with his life.
In Edmund St., on the N. side of the small square just men-
tioned, is the Mason College (PI. C, 1, 2), a tasteful red brick
edifice, built by Sir Josiah Mason in 1875-80 at a cost of 60,000£.
and endowed by Mmwith 140,000£. more. It is now attended by
500-600 students, and is completely equipped with Faculties of
Arts and Science, a series of excellent laboratories, and a library
of 18,000 vols. In the same street, farther to the E., at the corner
of Margaret St., is the new School of Art (Pl.D, 1), built in 1884-85,
and the firstmunicipal school of art in England.
Colmorb Row (PI. D, E, 2), which leads to the E. from the
Town Hall to Snow Hill, with the Great Western Hotel and Station,
is perhaps the best-built street in the town. It contains numerous
substantial insurance-offices and banks, the Union Club, and the
Qrand Hotel (p. 254). — To the S. of it, in a small open space, is
St. Philip's (PI. E, 2), a church of the Queen Anne period, occu-
pying the highest ground in Birmingham. One of the stained
glass windows is by Burne Jones (p. 257). In the churchyard is an
obelisk in memory of Col. Burnaby, erected in 1885.
Another handsome modern thoroughfare is Corporation
Street (PI. E, F, G, 3), which contains the New Qrand Theatre
(PI. G, 3), and the new Victoria Courts (PI. G, 2). On the Stork
Law
Hotel (PI. g; F, 3) is a tablet commemorating a visit of Dr. Johnson
to his friend Hector. The Rom. Cath. ^Cathedral of St. Chad (PI. F, 1),
in Bath St., is a good specimen of Pugin's work and is in the Dec.
style. It contains an oaken pulpit of the 16th cent., from Louvain,
and stalls, throne, and lectern of the 15th cent, from St. Maria in
Oapitolio at Cologne. —
The Oratory of St. Philip Neri, Hagley Road,
is interesting as the home of Card. Newman the church is Italian
;

in style.
Among the n merous valuable private collections in Birmingham, per-
haps the most generally interesting is the "Dickens Collection of Mr. W.
R. Hughes, City Treasurer, numbering more than 30C0 items, including
all the original editions, extra illustrations, portraits, biographies, criti-
cisms, books from Dickens's library, letters, autographs, prints, proof-
sheets, etc. Mr. Hughes also possesses (Jeorge Eliot and Herbert Spencer
collections.
 Aston Hall. BIRMINGHAM. 36. Route. 259
Birmingham possesses several public parks, the largest of which are
Cannon Hill Park to the S., Smallheath Park to the 8.W., and Aston Park
to the N.E. A chief attraction of the last is *Aston Hall (open from 10,
on Sun from 2, to dusk), a fine old Jacobean mansion, now containing
collections of various kinds. The Aston Lower Grounds contain an aquarium,
a large assembly-hall, running- tracks, gardens, etc. —
The Botanic Gardens
(acini. 6d., Mon. 2d.) are at Edgbaston, the fashionable west-end suburb of
Birmingham, which also contains a public park with a small lake. Sigh-
gate Park, to the S., commands an excellent view of the town.
On the N. Birmingham is adjoined by the manufacturing suburb of
Handsworth, in which stood the Soho Works of Watt and Boulton (p. 256),
dismantled in 1860. Large engine-works, however, are still carried on by
a grandson of the former at Smethwick (farther to the W.), under the style
of James Watt <fc Co. Watt's house is still standing at Heathfield (tram-
way), and contains some interesting relics. Both Watt and Boulton are
buried in the parish-chureh of Handsworth, where they are commemorated
by monuments by Chantrey and Flaxman. — The old Crown Bouse, at
Deritend (beyond PI. G, 5), is an interesting half-timbered edifice.
Environs. Among the most interesting points within easy reach of
Birmingham are (7 M.) Sutton Park (see below) reached by railway in
,

Vs hr.; Packwood House, with its interesting garden, near Knoutlefp. 244);
Berkswell (p. 254) ; Halesowen Church, with the grave of the poet Shenstone
(d. 1763) in the churchyard, and the ruins of an abbey; the Clent Hills;
Dudley Castle, 8 ! /2 M. to theN.W.; Boumeville, to the W., with the ex-
tensive cocoa and chocolate manufactory of Cadbury Brothers; Tamworth
Castle, etc. —
Longer excursions (1-2 hrs. by rail) may be made to Lich-
field (seebelow), Warwick, Slratford-on-Avon, Kenilworth, etc.
From Birmingham to Lichfield, 16 M., L.N. W. Railway in 1/2-I hr. —
Leaving the Central Station (p. 254), the train passes the suburban
stations of Vauxhall and (2V2 M.) Aston (see above). A little to the W.
of (6 M.) Erdington is the Oscott Roman Catholic College, which contains
some fine old paintings. — 8 M. Sutton Coldfleld (Royal Hotel; Swan), a
small town with an old church. Sutton Park, famous for its hollies, is
a favourite resort of picnic parties from Birmingham. —
16 M. Lichfield,
see p. 347.
From Birmingham to Walsall, 17 M., Midland Railway in 8/4 hr.
— 5'/2 M. Castle Bromwich; HV2 M. Sutton Coldfleld (see above); 12'/2 M.
Sutton Park. —
17 M. Walsall (George; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a town
of 60,000 inhab., containing large manufactories of saddlers' ironmongery,
and the centre of an important coal-district. This was the scene of the
labours of i Sister Dora'', who is commemorated by a statue (1886) and by
a stained-glass window in the large Church of St. Matthew. —
Walsall is
the junction of lines to Wolverhampton, Lichfield, etc.
From Birmingham to Wolverhampton, see R. 37 ; to Warwick and Oxford,
see R. 33; to Worcester, see R. 23; to Derby, see R. 23.

37. From Birmingham to Shrewsbury via

Wolverhampton and Wellington.
42 M. Great Western Railway in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares 8*. 3d. 6j.,
3s. 6<Z.).
Leaving the Snow Hill Station, the train passes Hockley, Soho
(see above), and Handsworth, where a line to Stourbridge (p. 260)
diverges to the left. —
6 M. West Bromwich (Dartmouth ; Great
Western) a busy iron-manufacturing town of recent origin with
, ,

about 50,000 inhab., possesses a large park, commanding a beau-

tiful view. —
7 M. Swan Village, the junction of a line to Dudley
(p. 260). The large Gas Works here, built at a cost of 120,000f.,
supply all the towns within a radius of 10 miles. —
8y2 M. Wed-
17*"
260 Route 37. WOLVERHAMPTON. From Birmingham

nesbury (Anchor; Dartmouth Arms) is an ancient town with 25,000

inhab. and large manufactories of railway axles and tires and other
iron goods. The Perp. Church contains some good carving. The —
next stations are (10 M.) Bradley, (11 M.) Bilston (24,000 inhab.),
and (12 M.) Priestfield, all busy places with manufactures of iron
and steel, beyond which we soon reach Wolverhampton.
Wolverhampton may also be reached from Birmingham by the L.
N. W. Railway and by the Midland Railway from New Street. For the
Midland route, see p. 259. The chief stations on the L. N. W. route
(13 M., in V2-1 hr.) are: 4 M. Spon Lane; 6V2 M. Oldbury a growing
—
,

manufacturing town with 12,000 inhabitants. 7 M. Dudley Port is the

junction of a line to (3V2 M.) Dudley (Castle; Dudley Arms), one of the
largest and most important towns in the 'Black Country', with an exten-
sive iron-trade, manufactures of anvils and vices, and 46,235 inhabitants.
The picturesque ruins of "Dudley Castle, belonging to the Earl of Dudley,
crown a wooded hill rising above the station and date mainly from the
16th cent. the keep is of the 13th century.
; They afford an excellent
survey of the great coal and iron district of England, including numerous
large manufacturing towns the view is perhaps most impressive by night,
;

when the flames issuing from the chimneys and furnaces envelope the
scene in a curious lurid glare. The caves below the castle, formed by
quarrying for limestone, are interesting (guide necessary). In the market-
place is a Renaissance Fountain, presented to the town by the late Earl
of Dudley, of whom a marble statue was erected in 1888. The Geological
Museum contains specimens of the minerals of the district. [From Dudley
a line runs S. to (5y2 M.) Stourbridge (Talbot), a glass-making town with
10,000 inhab., and (12 M.) Kidderminster (Lion; Black Horse), a town of
27,600 inhab., iamed for its manufactures of Brussels and other carpets.
Kidderminster was the scene of the labours of Richard Baxter (1615-91),
to whom a statue has been erected in the Bull Ring. His pulpit is in the
vestry of the New Meeting House.]
13 M. Wolverhampton. —
Hotels. Stab & Gaktek, Victoria St.;
Peacock, Snow Hill; Talbot; Coach & Houses. — Rail. Rfmt. Rooms.
Cabs. Per mile Is., each addit. 1/2 M. Gd. ;
per 1/2 br. Is*, each addit.
'A hr. Gd.
Tramways run from Queen Square, in the centre of the town, to
Tettenhall (p. 261), Bilston, Willenhall (every 20 min.), and Sedgley. —
Omnibus Penn, five times daily.
to
Theatre, at the corner of Garrick St. and Cleveland Road. Theatrical
performances are also given in the Exchange.
Railway Stations. North Western & Midland, at the foot of Lichfield
St.; Great Western, in Sun St., near the other. The former station is
known as the high-level, the latter as the low-level station.
Wolverhampton, the largest town in Staffordshire, with 85,000
inhab., derives itsname from Wulfruna, sister of Ethelred II., who
founded a college here in 996. It is the capital of the 'Black Coun-
try', an extensive coal and iron mining district, in which vegeta-
tion is almost entirely replaced by heaps of slag and cinders. It
lies, however, on the verge of this district, and the country to the
N. and W. are of the normal and pleasanter green hue. The special
manufactures of Wolverhampton are locks (370,000 a week), tin-
plate, and japanned goods. The well-known lock-manufactory of
the Messrs. Chubb is open to visitors daily, except Sat., 10-1 and
2-6. Wolverhampton is also an important agricultural market.
The most interesting building in Wolverhampton is the vener-
able *Church of St. Peter, in the market-place, a handsome Gothic
 to Shrewsbury. WELLINGTON. 37. Route. 261

structure of the 13-1 5th cent., occupying the site of a church of the
10th cent, and recently restored. It was formerly a collegiate
establishment. Bishop Hall (d. 1656) was one of its prebendaries.
The Interior contains a stone pulpit of the 15th cent., an ancient
font, and several old monuments, including that of Col. Lane, who help-
ed Charles II. to escape after the battle of Worcester (1651.) and shared
his hiding-place in the royal oak at Boscohel (see below), and a bronze
statue of Admiral Leveson (temp. Charles I.), by Le Sueur. The stained-
glass windows are modern — In the Churchyard is a rudely-carved cross
or pillar, the origin of which is obscure. The Tower commands an ex-
tensive view of the Black Country, the blazing furnaces of which present
a most weird spectacle after dark.
The Town HaU, in North Street, is a large and handsome
modern building in the Italian style, with a Mansard roof; the Free
Library and Exchange also deserve notice. In Lichfield Street
is the Art Gallery, containing the fine Cartwright Collection of
Pictures and other objects of art. The Blue Coat School dates from
the 18th century. The Orphan Asylum is a handsome Elizabethan
structure (250 children). Near the Agricultural Hall is a Statue of
the Bight Hon. C. P. Villiers, one of the leaders of the anti-corn-
law agitation, who has represented Wolverhampton in parliament
since 1838. Queen Square is adorned with a bronze equestrian
Statue of Prince Albert, by Thornycroft. There is also a Public Park.
The elder Edwin Booth, the tragedian, was originally an artisan
in Wolverhampton, working in the 'Old Hall Tin Factory'.
Environs. About 2 M. to the H. W., on the road to Shifnal (see below),
is the pretty village of Teltenhall, the church of which contains a curious
stained-glass window. In the churchyard are some fine yews. — Botcdbel,
Where Charles II. lay in hiding after the battle of Worcester, under the
care of 'Unparalleled Pendrell', is 8 M. to the N.W. of Wolverhampton
and 2 M. to the N. of Albrighton (see below). The royal oak has now
disappeared, but a hiding-place in the floor is shown in which the king
was concealed. — Longer excursions may be made to (10 M.) Enville,
with its beautiful gardens, Bridgenorth, and Bag ley.
Fkom Wolveehami'ton to Staffokd, 15 M., L. N.W. Railway in >/2 hr.
(fares 2s. 9d., 2s., Is. 3 l fad.). Beyond (3 M.) Four Ashes the railway intersects
the old Roman Watling Street. — 7 M. Penkridge, with a handsome red
church (right). At (15 M.) Stafford we reach the main L.N.W. line (see
p. 346).
Beyond Wolverhampton the train passes Codsall Albrighton, ,

and (25 M.) Shifnal (Jerningham Arms), a picturesque little town

with half-timbered houses and a fine church. To the E. is *Tong
Church, a singularly pure example of early Perp. (1401-11).
32 M. Wellington (Wrekin Hotel), a nail-making town of
6200 inhab., lies 2'/2 M. from the N. base of the Wrekin (1320 ft.),
a solitary hill of trap rock , which has foT some time been conspic-
uous to the left. The top, on which are some fortified remains,
commands an extensive *View.
From Wellington to Market Drayton, 29 M., railway in Vs-'A nr -

(fares 3s. 6d.,2s. 6d.,ls. i^fed.). Unimportant stations. From Market Drayton
(Corbet Arms) lines go on to Crewe (p. 345) and Stoke (p. 346).
Wellington is also connected by railway with Coalbrookdale , Much
Wenlock and Craven Arms (p. 180).
(p. 181),
Farther on the train crosses the Severn.
262 Route 37. SHREWSBURY. From Birmingham

42 M. Shrewsbury (Raven, Castle St., R. & A. 4s., table d'hote

4s.; Lion, WyleCop; George; Crown; Clarendon), the county-town
of Shropshire or Salop, an ancient place of 26,480 inhab., with
narrow steep streets and quaint old houses, picturesquely situated
on a hill surrounded on three sides by the Severn. Its name is derived
from Scrobbesbyrig , an appellation meaning wooded hill (comp.
'shrub', 'scrub'), assigned to the British town found by the Saxons
on this spot. As an important position on the Welsh march, it was
formerly surrounded with walls, of which few traces remain. The
Severn is crossed here by two bridges, the Welsh and the English.
Shrewsbury is celebrated for its cakes, and visitors may still enjoy
'a Shrewsbury cake of Pailin's own make' ('Ingoldsby Legends' ).
Not more than h;ilf-a-day need be devoted to Shrewsbury.
Above us, to the left as we quit the station, rises the Castle,
originally founded by a vassal of William the Conqueror (entrance
by a gate on the left, just beyond the Presbyterian Church).
On reaching the fine inner gate we obtain a view of the mansion form-
ed out of the ancient keep. Visitors are not admitted to the interior,
but may follow the path to the right, leading to a modern Watch Tower,
which commands a fine view of the Severn and the country round
Shrewsbury. —
The walk outside the N. wall of the castle enclosure
-

leads to a covered bridge communicating with the station.

To the right, opposite the church, is the Free Library, with anti-
quities f rom Wroxeter, etc. —A little farther on, a street diverging
from Castle St. leads to the *Church of St. Mary, with its lofty
spire, which we enter by the porch on the N. side. The architecture
is of various periods, ranging from Norman to late-Perpendicular.
The ^Interior, with its fine stained glass, is more pleasing than the
exterior. The Nave is late-Norman, the Transept E. E., and the Trinity
Chapel (to the S. of the choir) Perp. (15tu cent.). The last contains a
monument of the 14th cent, and a memorial to Bishop Samuel Butler (d.
1840; see p. 263); and in the Chantry Chapel, on the N. side of the
chancel, is the tomb of Admiral Benbow (d. 1702). The ceiling is of oak.
The Jesse Window, at the E. end, dates from the 14th century.
On leaving St. Mary's we pass the Salopian Infirmary and the
churches of St. Alkmund and St. Julian, and then descend to the
S. (left), through the steep Wyle Cop, to the English Bridge over
the Severn. Beyond the bridge we follow the road in a straight direc-
tion, passing under the railway, to the *Abbey Church, which is in
part a Norman structure and belonged to a monastery built by the
founder of the castle. Among its chief features are the fine W.
window (Perp.) and the recessed Norman doorway. The interior
contains some interesting monuments. In front of the church is the
Holy Cross, and to the S. of it, in a coal-yard, is the line Stone Pul-
pit of the Refectory, almost the only relic of the monastic buildings.
On recrossing the bridge we turn to the left (Beeches Lane)
and follow the line of the Town Walls, passing the only remaining
tower and the handsome Eye fy Ear Hospital to St. Chad's Church,
,

a large circular building of the end of last century. Opposite is

the *Quarry, a park on the Severn, with fine lime-trees.
 ,

to Shrewsbury. SHREWSBURY. 37. Route. 263

We may follow the walk along the, river to the Welsh Bridge,
on the N. side of the town, and return through the Mardol to the
centre of the town. —
The Market Hall, in a square off the High
St., is an Elizabethan edifice of 1595; opposite to it is a statue of
Lord Clive (d. 1774), by Marochetti. At the beginning of the High
St. are two interesting half-timbered houses, one bearing the date
1591. At the end of the street, to the left, diverges *Butcher's
Row, an admirable example of the street-architecture of the 15th
century. Many of the other private houses of Shrewsbury preserve
their mediaeval aspect substantially unchanged.
The Grammar School of Shrewsbury, founded by Edward VI.
ranks among the best public schools of England. Bishop Samuel
Butler was at one time head-master here, and Sir Philip Sidney,
Wycherley, and Judge Jeffreys were pupils. The handsome new
buildings of the school are in the suburb of Kingsland, on the right
bank of the Severn, opposite the Quarry (p. 263). Farquhar wrote
his comedy of 'The Recruiting Officer' at the Raven Hotel (p. 262).
Environs. Battlefield Church, 3'/2 M. to the N. of Shrewsbury, marks
the scene of the battle in which Henry IV. overthrew Hotspur and his
allies in 1403. It was on this occasion that Sir John Falstaff fought 'a
long hour by Shrewsbury clock'. About l 3 /» M. to the W. of the town is
Shelton Oak, a fine hut now decayed tree, 45 ft. in girth, from which
Owen (ilendower is said to have watched the progress of the contest. —
The ruins of Haughmond Abbey, 4 M. to the N. E., founded about 1100,
deserve a visit. They are in a mixed Norman and Pointed style; the nave
of the church has an oaken roof. Haughmond Hill affords a line view of
Shrewsbury. — About 5 M. to the S. E. lies Wroxeter, with the interest-
ing remains of the Roman city of Uriconium, a 'British Pompeii', forming
an enclosure with a circumference of about 3 M. It is believed to have
been burned by the West Saxons in the 6th cent., and the skeletons of
three persons overtaken by the flames have been discovered among the
ruins. Many of the antiquities found here are now in the Shrewsbury
Museum (p. 262). — At Acton Burnett, 8 M. to the S. E., is an old castle
in which Edward I. held a parliament in 1283. The church, restored in
1890, is a good specimen of E.E. work, inclining to Decorated. The road
to Acton Burnell passes (5 M.) Pitchford Hall, a quaint half-timbered man-
sion of the 15th century. —Excursions may also be made to Condover Hall,
Buildwas Abbey (12 M.), the Wrekin (p. 261), Stokesay Castle (p. 181), etc.
From Shrewsbury to Hereford, see p. 180; to Chester, see R. 39. —
Shrewsbury is a convenient starting-point for a visit to Central Wales,
see R. 38.

38. From Shrewsbury to Aberystwith. Central Wales.

81 M. Cambbian Railway in 3>/2-4 hrs. (fares 15s. 5d., 10s. 5<J., 6s. Wfad.).
This line crosses the centre of Wales, and has direct connection from various
points with the Southern Welsh places described in RR. 24-29 and the
Northern Welsh places of R. 40.
On leaving Shrewsbury the train crosses the Severn and runs
almost due west. From (5 M.) Hanwood a branch-line diverges on
the left to Minsterley. Near (15 M.) Middletown we skirt the base
of the Breidden Hills (to the right; p. 264). At (17 M.) Butting-
ton Junction we join the main Cambrian line.
20 M. Welshpool (Royal Oak; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a small
town with 5000inhab., situated near the Severn, which here be-
264 Route 38. MONTGOMERY. From Shrewsbury

comes navigable for barges. It contains the Powysland Museum

(10-4, 3d.; Sat., 1-4, free), and carries on a considerable trade in
flannel. Fine view from the churchyard.
About f M. to the S. of Welshpool stands *Powys Castle (shown in
the absence of the family), the venerable seat of the Earl of Powis, called
by the Welsh Castell Goch (i. e. Ked Castle) from the colour of the sand-
stone of which it is built. It was founded in the 12th cent., but has been
much added to and modernised. The fine gateway is flanked by two
massive round towers. The castle contains some good portraits and
tapestry and a valuable collection of Indian curiosities brought home
by Lord Clive, an ancestor of the Karl. The state-bedroom is still kept
exactly as it was when once occupied by Charles II. The beautiful Park
is open to the public (entrance in the main street of Welshpool); fine
view from the terraces in front of the castle.
Among the other excursions that may be made from Welshpool are
those to Guilsfield, 3 M. to the N., with a fine old church; to the water-
fall of the Rhiw, near Berriew, 4V2 M. to the S., and on to (3 M.) Mont-
gomery (see below); and to the N.E. to (4 M.) the Breidden Hills, the
highest summit of which, Moel-y-Golfa attains a height of 1300 ft. On
,

Breidden Hill (1200 ft.) is a pillar commemorating Rodney's victory over

the French in 1782 (view). Nearly all the hills near Welshpool are sur-
mounted with remains of ancient fortifications.
Fkom Welshpool to Oswestry and Gobowen, 19'/2 M., railway in
/4-lV< hr. (fares 3s. Gd., 2s. d., is. V/vd.). This line passes through a pretty
3

district, which would repay the pedestrian, who, however, should make a
detour through the glen of the Tanat. From (10 M.) Llanymynech a
branch-line diverges to (9 M.) Llanfyllin (Wynnstay Arms), celebrated for
its ales and sweet bells. It is the nearest station to (10 M.) "Pistyll Rhaiadr,
the highest waterfall in Wales, the route to which passes through (6 M.)
Llanrhaladr-yn- Mochnant (Wynnstay Arms). — 16 M. Oswestry ( Wynnstay
Arms; Queen's; Rail. Re/reshmt. Rooms), an interesting old town with
8000 inhab. and a picturesque church-tower. At Old Oswestry is a British
Camp. Oswestry is a convenient starting-point for an excursion to Pistyll
Rhaiadr (see above),- a brake runs twice weekly (Wed. & Sat.) in summer
to (14 M.) Llanrhaiadr (see above; fare 2s., return 3s.). — At (WfoM.)
Gobowen we reach the railway from Shrewsbury to Chester (see R. 39).
26 M. Montgomery. The small town of Montgomery (Green
Dragon), which lies 2 M. to the S. E. of the station, is interesting
for the finely-situated ruins of the old * Castle, dating from the 11th
century. An extensive British Camp on an adjoining hill commands
a fine view. The Church contains some old monuments.
Offa's Dyke, a boundary -wall erected by King Offa of Mercia (8th
cent.), and extending from Flintshire to the mouth of the Wye (p. 174),
passes within a mile or two of Montgomery (to the E.) and may be con-
veniently visited thence.
From (30 M.) Abermule a short branch-line diverges on the left
to Kerry, with an interesting, partly Norman church. 34 M. —
Newtown (Boar's Head), a flannel-manufacturing town with 7170
inhabitants. The new church contains a fine screen removed from
the old church. Robert Owen (1771-1858), the Socialist, was
born, died, and is buried here. —
About 1 M. to the S., on the
road to Builth, is a fine waterfall, 75 ft. high.
3872 M. Moat Lane (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) the junction of
,

the line to Llanidloes, Builth, Brecon, and Merthyr Tydvil (see

p. 203). — From (40 M.) Caersws a mineral line runs to the once
celebrated Van Lead Mines. The line now quits the Severn and
 to Aberystwith. MACHYNLLETH. 38. Route. 265

enters the pretty wooded valley of the Carno. About l 1 ^ M. to

the N.E. of (45 M.) Carno lie three picturesque little lakes. We
now cross the highest point of the line (690 ft.). —
52 M. Llan-
brynmair; 5 M. to the S. is the beautiful *Waterfall of the
Twymyn, 140 ft. high. — From (56Y2M.) Cemmes Road (Dovey
Hotel) a short branch-line runs through the pretty valley of the
Dovey to (7 M.) Dinas Mawddwy (Buckley Arms).
About IV2 M. to the S. E. of Dinas Mawddwy is Mallwyd (Peniarth
Arms), a charmingly-situated village, with some fine yews in the church-
yard. Walkers may go on from Dinas Mawddwy to (7 M.) the Cross Foxes
Inn (p. 298) and (1 V2 M.) Dolgelley (p. 297); or they may cross the Bwlch-y-
Groes Pass to (1 Mj Llanuwchllyn (p. 302).
61 1/2 M. Machynlleth (Lion, R. & A. 4s.; Queen's, near the
station; Rail. Refreshment Rooms), pronounced Machunthleth, a
small town. with 2000 inhab., believed to be the Roman Maglonn,
is prettily situated on the Dovey, at the foot of the Arran-y-Oessel
(2225 ft.). It affords convenient headquarters for excursions, owing
to its central situation and extensive railway-communications but ;

the want of a good hotel is a drawback. The fishing in the neigh-

bourhood is good. The Welsh seat of the Marquis of Londonderry,
Plas Machynlleth, adjoins the town on the 8.
Among the favourite points within easy reach are Barmouth (p. 294),
Dolgelley (p. 298), Cader Idris (p. 301), Mallwyd (see above), Llyfnant Glen
(p. 266), Llanidloes (p. 203), Plinlimnion (see below), and Aberystwith (p. 267).
The finest short excursion is to take the train to Glandovey (p. 266), and
walk back to (9 M ) Machynlleth (see below).
From Machynlleth a short railway threads a pretty valley to Corris
or Abercorris (Braich Goch Inn, rustic), whence a pleasant walk may be
taken to (11 M.) Dolgelley. The first part of the road, as we ascend
to the col (660 ft.), whence Cader Idris is well seen , is flanked with
slate-quarries. When the Tal-y-Llyn valley is reached we turn to the
right. The road skirts the E. cliffs of Cader Idris, and beyond another
col reaches the Cross Foxes Inn. Thence to (8 1 /* M.) Dolgelley, see p. 298.
[A public conveyance plies from Corris to Tal-y-Llyn (p. 266).]
The road from Machynlleth to (20 M.) Llanidloes (p. 203) is pretty at
each end, but dull in the middle. The only house of entertainment is
the (12 M.) Stay-a-Little Inn.
The ascent of Plinlimmon (2460 ft.), which lies about 10 M. to the
8. of Machynlleth, may be made from the head of the Llyfnant valley.
The view is disappointing, and the mountain has been described as 'sodden
dreariness'. Duffryn Castell Inn is 3'/2 M. to the S. of the summit, on
the high-road between Llanidloes and Devil's Bridge.
The road from Machynlleth to (18 M.) Aberystwith (p. 267) is not of great
interest, but walkers will be repaid by going as far as Llanfihangel (p. 266),
with digressions to the Llyfnant Valley (see p. 266) and Bedd Taliesin (p. 266),
the grave of the Welsh Homer (in all about 8 M.). The route recom-
mended is as follows. We
follow the hill-road to (3M.) Glas-Pwll (see p. 266),
but just before reaching it diverge to the left to (1 M.) QalU-y-Bladur
Farm (p. 266) for a view of Pistyll-y-Llyn (p. 266). From the farm we
descend into the valley at the 'Rhaiadr Gorge, and follow the track
leading down the stream to the (4 M.) main road, at the entrance of the
valley. We then follow the road to the left, passing Glandovey Station,
Glandovey Castle, and (2 M.) Eglwys Fach. At Furnace, !/s 1. farther
on, we leave the high-road and proceed through the main valley (left),
in a due 8. direction , to (3 M.) Bedd Taliesin (p. 266). Thence we may
either proceed to the right to (1 M.) Tre Taliesin (Inn), on the main road,
or continue in a straight direction to (2 M.) Tal-y-Bont (Hotel), which also
lies on the main road, 3 M. to the N. of Llanfihangel (p. 266).
266 Route 38. ABERDOVEY. From Shrewsbury

The train now descends the green valley of the Dyfi. or Dovey.
At (65V2 M.) Olandovey Junction (Rail. Refreshment Rooms) the
line forks the left branch going to Aberystwith, and the Tight
,

branch running N. to Barmouth (p. 294).

Feom Glandovey Junction to Bakmouth, 22 M., railway in 1 hr.
(fares 4s. 2d:, 2s. 10d., is. 9 1 /2<Z.). This beautiful line skirts the coast nearly
the whole way. The view, to the left, of the estuary of the Dovey is fine
at high-tide. —
6 M. Aberdovey (Dovey; Haven; Britannia), a small water-
ing-place at the mouth of the Dovey, with good sands and a mild cli-
mate. The line here turns to the N. —
10 M. Towyn (Corbet Arms;
Cambrian), a popular sea-bathing resort, with an ancient church, which
has been partly rebuilt. It contains 'St. Cadfan's Stone', a time-worn
relic, with an inscription that has never been satisfactorily deciphered.
[A short railway, starting from the Pendre Station, 1 M. to the B. of the
Cambrian station, runs from Towyn to (7 M.) Abergynolwpn, about 3'/2 M.
beyond which is Tal-y-Llyn Botel, a favourite resort of anglers, on a
lake at the S. base of Cader Idris which may be ascendpd hence by
,

active climbers in 2'/2 hrs. The route follows a small valley to Llyn-y-Cae
(p. 301) ,whence a steep climb brings us direct to the top.] Beyond —
Towyn Cader Idris soon comes into view to the right. 16'/2 M. Llwyngwril.
— 20 M. Barmouth Junction, and thence (to 22 M.) Barmouth, see p. 294.
From Glandovey Junction the Aberystwith train descends the
left bank of the Dovey to (66Y2 M.) Olandovey. Above the station
is the pretty little Olandovey Castle.
*Fkom Glandovey to Machynlleth by the Llyfnant Glen and Pistyll-
y-Llyn, 9 M. This walk (comp. p. 265) is especially beautiful in autumn,
from the station we follow the high-road to Machynlleth for 1/2 M., and
then ascend the lane to the right (sign-post, 'Llyfnant Valley'). At the
O/3 M.) fork we keep to the right. The track ascends through a beauti-
fully wooded valley, and then descends to (2>/2' M.) Olas-Pwll, a small
house embosomed among trees. At Glas-Pwll we cross a foot-bridge over
a tributary brook and immediately reach another bridge over the main
stream. The fall of Cwm Rhaiadr lies to our right, about 3 /t M. up this
stream, the best route ascending on the right bank (i. e. to our left as
we ascend). The gorge with the fall is very picturesque. Instead of
returning to the road at Glas-Pwll we may scramble up the high side of
the gorge and so reach the road on the N. side of the valley, by which
we proceed to the right to O/2 M.) Oallt-y-Bladur Farm. [If we return to
the road at Glas-Pwll, we follow it for 150 yds., and then turn to the
right to reach the farm.] Near this farm we obtain the best view of the
fall of Pistyll-y-Llyn, which lies about l1 /; M, to the S.; it is unnecessary
to go nearer. We now return to the (1 M.) Machynlleth road, which leads
to the N. of Glas-Pwll. After about I1/4 M., at the foot of a descent,
we cross a stream and ascend the middle track, avoiding those which lead
to the right and left through gates. After 5 min. we pass some cottages
on the right and soon obtain a view of the Dovey valley to the left. The
road then dips once more, but re-ascends to the (3/i M.) point from which
we make our final descent to the high-road through the Dovey valley.
Machynlleth soon comes into sight; and a well-marked footpath to the
right, at a cottage, cuts off a corner. —
1 M. Machynlleth, see p. 265.
The train skirts the S. side of the Dovey Estuary, the at-
now
tractions of which vary with the state of the tide. —
73 M. Borth
(Borth Hotel), a small watering-place, with a good sandy beach.
A walk may be taken from Borth to (5 M.) Bedd Taliesin (p. 265),
with the burial cairn of Taliesin, the greatest of the Welsh bards
(6th cent.). — 7572 M Llanfihangel (p. 265), a pretty
• - little spot;
77 M. Bow Street. The train now makes a wide sweep to the left
and enters (81 M.) Aberystwith from the S.ll.
 to Aberystwith. ABERYSTWITH. 38. Route. 267

Aberystwith (*Queen's; Bellevue, both facing the sea, R. & A.

4s., table d'h6te 4s. 6<f. *Lion or OogerddanArms, an old-fashioned
;

house; Talbot, these two in the town; Lodging Houses) situated ,

at the confluence of the Ystwith and Rheidol, which here unite just
before entering the sea, is a watering-place with 6650 inhabitants.
The beach, which is well adapted for bathing and yields cornelians,
agates, and other pebbles, is flanked by a Marine Promenade, end-
ing at a pier. To the S.W. on a rocky promontory descending
,

abruptly to the sea, are the ruins of an old Castle, erected by Gil-
bert de Strongbow at the beginning of the 12th cent., and finally
destroyed by Cromwell. The grounds afford an admirable view of
the "Welsh mountains, including (in clear weather) Snowdon. Ad-
joining the castle grounds stands the University College of Wales
(150 students), opened in 1872, burned down in 1885, and since
rebuilt. It is an imposing though somewhat irregular building
with large laboratories etc. The churchyard contains some old
,

tombs with quaint epitaphs. At the N. end of the bay rises the
Pen Olais or Constitution Hill (450 ft.), and 1 M. to the S. of
the town is Pen Dinas (400 ft.), two good points of view. The
column on the top of the latter is to the memory of the Duke of
Wellington. Most of the lead mines in the neighbourhood are closed
owing to the low price of lead.
The country round Aberystwith is unattractive, but walks may be
taken to (2'/4 M.) Alll-Wen and (5 M.) Twll Twrw, or the Monk's Gave, both
on the coast to the S.; to Llanbadr-Fawr, with its fine church, 1 M. in-
land; and to Nant Eos, 4 M. to the S.E. A railway-excursion may also
be made to Strata Florida (p. 208).
No one should miss the excursion to (12 M.) the Devil's Bridge, to
which brakes ply daily in summer (return-fare 4j.), returning (15 M.) via
Pont Erwyd. The direct road follows the ridge on the S. side of the
valley of the Rheidol, affording pleasant views. The brakes stop at the
Bafod Arms Hotel (R., A., & B. 5s. ; cold luncheon 2*.), close to the
bridge. The "Pont-y-Mynach , or Devil's Bridge, is a small bridge con-
stucted by the monks of Strata Florida in the 11th or 12th cent, over the
deep gorge of the ilynach, at its junction with the wooded valley of the
Ilheidol. Both rivers form beautiful waterfalls near the junction. The
old bridge is now surmounted by another added in 1753, but is well
seen from below. Most of the best view-points are within the grounds
of the hotel, for admission to which a fee of it. is charged. Walkers
should visit the "Parson's Bridge, which spans the Kheidol gorge l'/z M.
farther up (to the N.). On the road just above (on the left bank) is the
church of Yspytty Cynfyn, which the excursion -brakes pass on their
return to Aberystwith; and l'/j M. farther on is Pont Erwyd (Inn), in front
of which the river flows through a rocky 'gut', forming falls of some size
alter rain. The rest of the road to Aberystwith is through a somewhat
bleak district, disfigured by numerous lead-mines. — About 4 M. to the
S.E. of the Devil's Bridge is Hafod a large mansion in a well-wooded
,

park. Near it is the church of Eglwys-Newydd, containing a fine monu-

ment by Chantrey. From Hafod we may descend the valley of the Ystwith,
passing Pont Rhyd-y-Groes (Inn), to (7 1 /* **.) Trawscoed, whence we may
return to Aberystwith by train. —
Strata Florida (p. 208) is 6 M. to the S.
of Hafod.
A mail-cart runs daily from Aberystwith to (16 M.) Aberayron (p. 208).
From Aberystwith to Carnarvon, comp. RR. 40b and 40c.
 268

39. From Shrewsbury to Chester.

a. Vid Whitchurch.
43 M. L. N. W. Railway in lV4-2>/4 hrs. (fares 6s. IOd., 5s. 2d., 3s. 2>/2<Z.).
The first stations are Hadnall, Yorton, and (12 M.) Wem. The
notorious Judge Jeffreys (1643-89) was created Baron by Wem
James II. — 21i/ M. Whitchurch (Victoria; Swan), a town with
2
4000 inhah., is the junction of the Cambrian Railway to Whitting-
ton and Oswestry (p. 264) and of the L. N. W. line to Crewe
(p. 346). The church contains a monument of Talbot, first Earl of
Shrewsbury, killed at Bordeaux in 1453. About 4 M. to the N. E.
is Combermere Abbey, the seat of Viscount Combermere, with a
fine park (open to visitors) and a large lake or mere, the pike-
fishing in which is famous. —
The following stations are unimpor-
tant. — 43 M. Chester, see p. 269.
b. Vid Ruabon.
42 M. Railway (Great Western) in 1-2 hrs. (fares 6s. IOd., 5s. 2d.,
iis. '2 l /id.). This line, skirting the eastern margin of North Wales, is more
attractive than the one above described, especially in the Dee valley.
The train leaves the Severn to the left and crosses the battle-
field of Shrewsbury (p. 263). Beyond (7 1 i M.) Baschurch, a village
/
with remains of a British hill-fort, we traverse a flat and maTshy
district. The Breidden Hills are visible in the distance, with Rod-
ney's monument (p. 264). —From (16 M.) Whittington, a prettily-
situated village, with the ruins of an old castle, a pleasant excur-
sion may be made to Ellesmere, 8 M. to the N., with a small lake.
Near (18 M.) Oobowen, the junction for the line to Oswestry and
Welshpool (see p. 264), we cross Watt's Dyke, an embankment re-
sembling Offa's Dyke, and supposed like it to have been erected by
the Mercian Saxons to defend themselves against the Britons. Near
(20 M.) Preesgweene the train crosses the charming valley of the
Ceiriog, here the boundary between Shropshire and Wales, by a
viaduct 100 ft. high. —21 1/4 M. Chirk (*Hand Hotel), a prettily-
situated village near the left bank of the Ceiriog.
To reach Chirk Castle (p. 306) from the hotel we follow the main
street and turn to the riglit at the post-office, avoiding the descent to the
left. We then pass a new road to the right, and, after again avoiding a
descent to the left, soon come in sight of the park-gate. To the left of
the road we have a view of the fine aqueduct and viaduct crossing the
valley of the Ceiriog (see p. 307). There is also a footpath from Chirk
to the Castle, which is nearly </2 M. shorter than the road. —
About
1 31. to the S.E. of Chirk, overlooking the valley of the Ceiriog, is Brynki-
nalt, the seat of Lord Trevor, partly built by Inigo Jones. The Duke 01
Wellington spent many of his holidays here when a hoy (adm. to grounds
by order obtained at the Hand Hotel). —
Tramway from Chirk to Olyn
Ceiriog, see p. 307.
Beyond (231/2 M.) Cefn the train crosses the valley of the Dee by
a viaduct 145 ft. high and 1450ft. long, commanding an exquisite

*View in both directions. To the left is Pont Cysylltau (p. 307),

in the distance are the Berwyn Mts. On the right we skirt Wynn-
slay I'urk (see p. 30G), with its fine old oaks.
 CHESTER. 39. Route. 269

25 M. Buabon (Wynnstay Arms; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), near

which are some important iron and coal mines, is the junction of
the railway to Llangollen, Corwen, and Dolgelley (see R. 40c). The
church contains several monuments of the "Wynn family. The valley
of the Dee and other environs afford numerous charming -walks.
The line now runs parallel with Offa's Dyke and Watt's Dyke,
through a district abounding in coal and iron. To the right, near
Wrexham, is Erddig Hall, picturesquely situated on a hill.
30 M. Wrexham (Wynnstay Arms), a well-built market-town
with 11,000 inhab. sometimes called the metropolis of North
,

Wales. The handsome *Church, built in 1472 on the site of an

earlier building, contains a monument by Roubiliac; the tower,
added in 1506, is adorned with numerous figures of saints.
From Wrexham an alternative line to Cheater, opened in 1890, runs
via Hope, Buckley, and Hawarden (p. 276), crossing the Dee by a swing-
bridge 527 ft. long.
33 M. Gresford, the birthplace of Samuel Warren (1807-77),
author of 'Ten Thousand a Year', with a fine church. The line
runs nearly parallel with the Dee, a short way from its left bank.
To the left, in the distance, rise the Clwyd Hills (p. 280). 40 M.
Saltney, with extensive works. The train now crosses the Dee by a
huge cast-iron bridge, and passes through a short tunnel.
42 M. Chester. —
Railway Stations. General Station (PI. F, G, 1),
an extensive and handsome building, used in common by the L. N. W.
E. and the G. W. R., '/z M. from the centre of the town (to the N. E.);
Northgate Station (PI. D, 1), Victoria Road, for the 'Cheshire Lines'. —
The hotel-omnibuses meet the trains.
Hotels. 'Gbosvenob (PI. a; D, 3). Eastgate, a modern building in the
old timbered style, R. from 2«. 6d., A. is. 6<J. ; 'Queen (PI. b ; F, 1), connect-
ed by a covered way with the General Station , R. & A. is. ; Blossoms,
just outside the East Gate (PI. E, 3), commercial, R. & A. 3*. Hop Pole,
;

Gbeen Dragon, Westminster Temperance, unpretending. — Railway Re-

freshment Rooms; Bolland, confectioner, Eastgate Row.
Cabs. For 1-2 pers. is. per mile ; Gd. for each 1/2 M. additional ; 3-6
pers. Is. Gd. and 6(2.; per hour Is. Gd.\ each addit. '/« hr. Gd. Fare and
a half between midnight and 6 a. m. No charge for ordinary luggage.
Tramway from the General Station through the town to Grotvenor
Bridge, Eaton Park (fares 3d. inside, 2d. outside), and Saltney.
Steamers (small), starting near the Suspension Bridge, ply up the
Dee in summer to (3 M.) Eccleston Ferry (4d.), Eaton Bridge (Gd., return
9<J.), and Farndon.
Boats on the Dee 6d. to 3». per hour, 4-20s. per day, according to
the size ; charges doubled on Bank Holidays. — Swimming Baths, in the
Dee, near the Suspension Bridge. — Horse Races on the Roodee (p. 271)
in May. — Post Office (PI. E, 3), St. John Street. —
Booksellers, Phillipson
& Bolder, Eastgate Row (also photographs, etc.).
Chester, the capital of Cheshire and the seat of a bishop,
with 36,788 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the right bank of
the Dee, a few miles above its estuary, and is perhaps the most
quaint and mediaeval-looking town in England. Strangers arriving
in Liverpool should unquestionably devote a day to this most
interesting little city even though unable to extend their tour
,

into North Wales, of which Chester forms the usual portal. Every
270 Route 39. CHESTER. Walls.

efforthas been made to carry out modern improvements in such a

way with the characteristic fea-
as to interfere as little as possible
tures of the place. Chester formerly carried on a considerable
shipping trade, most of which has been lost through the silting
up of the Dee. Monthly markets are held for the sale of Cheshire
cheese in the Cheese Market (PI. D, 3), behind the Town Hall.
History. Whether or not a settlement of the early Britons occupied
the place of modern Chester is uncertain, hut the Romans at once recog-
nised the importance of the position, and for four centuries, beginning
about A. D. 60, Deva, or the camp upon the Dee, was the headquarters
of the famous XX'h Legion. Its claim to rank as a colonia has not been
established but its very name , a softened form of the Saxon ceaster,
,

meaning the camp (Latin castrci), proves its importance as a military

post. The original Saxon name in its full form was, however, Laege-
ceashr, which like Leinster and the Welsh Gaerleon, was a translation of
the later Roman name, Castra or Civitas Legiormm. Innumerable Roman
remains have been found in different parts of the city, and are now preserved
in the Grosvenor Museum (p. 275). After the departure of the Romans
Chester was possessed in turn by the Welsh, the Saxons, and the Danes.
In 607 it was destroyed by jEthelfrith of Northumbria, who on the same
occasion massacred the 1200 monks of Bangor Isycoed , 'the last great
victory of English heathendom over British Christianity.' It may then,
1

according to one view, have lain desolate for nearly three centuries, till
the Danes found refuge in it in 894 and maintained it for a year against
King Alfred. Sixteen years later it was rebuilt by jEthelred of Mercia and
his wife jEthelflaed, who extended the walls so as to embrace the site of
the castle. Chester was the last English city to yield (in 1070) to William
the Conqueror, who created his nephew, Hugh Lupus , Palatine Earl of
Chester, and entrusted him with the task of curbing his Welsh neigh-
bours. The earldom reverted to the crown under Henry III. (1237), and
still furnishes a title to the heir-apparent of the throne. In the Great Civil
War the citizens held out stoutly for Charles I. for two years (1644-46),
but were finally starved into surrender. The modern history of the town
has been uneventful, and it has not shared in the growth of most English
towns of similar size. The present bishopric of Chester dates from the
reign of Henry VIII. (1541), though the see of Lichfield was transferred
to Chester for a few years in the 11th cent. (1075-1085), and all through
the. middle ages the bishops of Lichfield were as often as not called bis-
hops of Chester.
Chester still bears distinct traces of its origin in a Roman
castrum and the older part of it forms an oblong, intersected by
.

two main streets at right angles to each other and surrounded by

walls, a walk round which forms the best introduction to the city.
The present *Walls, constructed of red sandstone are not older ,

than the 14th cent, and it is doubtful whether even the foundations
contain any work of an earlier period. On three sides, however, the
line of the Roman walls is followed, while the S. wall has been
pushed considerably forward. The circuit of the walls is nearly 2 M.,
and the paved footway on the top, 4-6 ft. in width, affords a de-
lightful walk, commanding admirable views of the city and its
surroundings. The gates are modern.
Walk round the Walls. Leaving the General Railway Station (PI. F, G, 1),
we pass through City Road and Foregate Street, and reach the walls at 0/2M-)
the East Gate (PI. E, 3). Here we ascend the steps to the right and follow the
walls towards the N. (right), obtaining almost at once a splendid view of
the Cathedral (p. 272). At the N. E. i;ngle of the walls is the Phoenix Tower
(PI. D, 2), the most interesting of those still remaining, with an inscription re-
ewESTii c&rHitBitAL
 Rows. CHESTER. 39. Route. 271

cording that Charles I. hence witnessed the defeat of his troops on Row-
ton Moor in 1645. The view from the top includes the ruined castle of
Beeston (p. 276), on a hill 10 M. to the S. E. Along the N. wall, part
of which seems of earlier workmanship than the rest (possibly Norman),
runs the Shropshire Union Canal, taking the place of the ancient moat.
After crossing the North Gate (PI. C, 2) we reach a watch-tower called Mor-
gan's Mount (PI. C, 2 ; "View from the platform, including Moel Fammau and
Flint Castle), and then, a little further on, Pemberton's Parlour, a semicircu-
lar tower, with an inscription recording repairs made on the walls in 1701.
Beyond Pemberton's Parlour an opening has been made in the wall for
the railway, close to Bonwaldesthorne's Tower (PI. B, 2), at the N. W. angle
of the old city. This is connected with an out-lying tower named the
Water Tower, to which ships used to be moored in the days when the
tidal waters of the Dee washed the walls of Chester. It is now used as
a museum (adm. 6<J); and there are also some interesting Roman remains
(hypocaust, columns, etc.) in the little garden at its foot. From the top
of the Water Tower an admirable view is obtained of the estuary of the
Dee and the Welsh Mts. Proceeding towards to the S., we again cross the
railway, and, after passing over the Water Gate (PI. B, 4), observe below us
(right) the Roodee or Koodeye (PI. A, B, 4, 5), a picturesque race-course
(see p. 269). The name is said to be derived from a cross erected to mark
the spot where an image of the Virgin was found, which had been thrown
into the Dee by the sacrilegious natives of Hawarden. In front is Gros-
venor Bridge, crossing the Dee in a single bold 6pan of 200 ft., one of the
largest stone arches in Europe. Within the walls, at their S.W. angle,
is the Castle (see p. 275). The wall now skirts the Dee, and at Bridge Gate
(PI. D, 5) we pass the picturesque OH Bridge, of the 13th cent., and the
huge ifills of Dee, which have existed here in one form or another for 800
years. On the left we get a good view, from the Bridge Gate, of the Bear
and Billet Inn (p. 272). On the opposite side of the river is King Edgar's
Field, containing the so-called Edgar's Cave, with a rude Roman sculpture.
The story goes that in 971 King Edgar of Mercia was rowed from this point
to St. John's Church by six subject kings or chieftains. Farther up, the
Dee is crossed by a Suspension Bridge (PI. F, 4). At the point where the
wall again turns to the N. we ascend the Wishing Steps, as to which tra-
dition declares that he who can rush up and down these steps seven times
without taking breath may very deservedly count upon the fulfilment of
any wish he may form. From the next part of the wall, the only part
where the houses of the city are built against it, we have a view to the right
of St. John's Church (p. 275) and the Bishop's Palace. Crossing the New
Gate (PI. E, 4), we now regain the East Gate, where we started. fj<

The most characteristic and indeed the unique feature of Chester

consists in the *Bows, found in the four main streets converging at
the market-cross. In the Eastgate, Bridge , and Watergate Streets
(PI. C, D, 3) the Rows appear as continuous galleries or arcades occu-
pying the place of the front rooms of the first floors of the houses
lining the streets, the ceiling of the ground-floor forming the foot-
path, while the upper stories form the roof. These covered passages
are approached from the street by flights of steps and contain a
second row of shops, those in Eastgate Row being the most attractive
in the city. In Northgate (PI. C, 2, D, 2, 3) the rows occupy the ground-
floor and recall the arcades of Bern and Thun. The most interesting
parts of the Rows are in Eastgate and Bridge Street, the most quaint
of all being the Scotch Row on the "W. side of the latteT. The
Watergate Rows are somewhat less interesting but the street con-
,

tains the three finest specimens of the old timber-built houses, in

the number of which Chester excels all other English cities. Qod's
272 Route 39. CHESTER. Cathedral

Providence House (PL D, 3), to the left (S.), is so called from the
inscription it bears, which is said to be a grateful commemoration of
immunity from the plague in the 17th century. The house was ori-
ginally built in 1652, and in 1862 it was carefully reconstructed in
the old style and as far as possible with the old materials. Farther
on, on the same side, is Bishop Lloyd's House (PI. C, 3 1615), with ;

a richly carved and pargeted front. Passing the end of Nicholas St.
and turning down a small entry on the left, we reach the *Stanley
House or Palace (PL G, 4; 1591), the oldest timber house of im-
portance in Chester, originally the town-residence of the Stanleys
(now divided into small tenements). The Yacht Inn (PI. C, 4),
where Swift once lodged, is also in Watergate St. On the opposite
side of the street stands Trinity Church (PL C, 3), containing the
tombs of Matthew Henry (d. 1714), the commentator, and Thomas
Parnell (d. 1718), the poet.
The Bear & Billet Inn , at the foot of Bridge St. (PI. D, 5), was for-
merly the town-mansion of the Shrewsbury family. The Falcon Inn, in
Bridge St., has recently been to a great extent rebuilt. The antiquarian
should visit the vaulted crypts in the basements of houses in Eaatgate
St. (No. 34), Watergate St. "(Nos. 11 & 13), and Bridge St. (No. 12). They
belonged to old religious houses formerly on the same sites, and appar-
ently date from the 13th century. At No. 39, Bridge St., the remains of
a Roman hypocaust are still in situ.
The "Cathedral (Pl.D, 3), which lies near the centre of the city,
and approached by Northgate St. and Werburgh St., is built of
is
new red sandstone, with a massive central tower, and embraces de-
tails of various styles of architecture, from Norman to late-Perpendi-
cular. A
careful restoration of the entire edifice was recently car-
ried out under the superintendence of Sir G. G. Scott and Mr.
Blomfleld. The dimensions of the cathedral are as follows length :

355 ft., width 75 ft., across the transepts 200 ft., height 78 ft,
tower 127 ft. The nave and transepts are open to visitors daily
till 5 or 6 p. m. according to the season adm. to the choir, lady
;

chapel, and chapter-house 6d. each or 2s. 6d. for a party of 5-15;
,

to the Norman crypt 6d. each to the tower Is. each

; , or 2s. 6d.
for 5. The daily services are at 10. 15 a. m. and 4.15 p. m. on ;

Sun. at 3.30 (no sermon) and 6.30 p.m. also. Organ recital on Sun.
after the evening service.
The site of Chester Cathedral seems to have been already occupied
by a Christian church in the Roman period, and afterwards by a Saxon
church and a convent dedicated to SS. Oswald and Werburgh. The relics
of the latter saint, who was an abbess of Ely in the 8th cent., were brought
hither by Elfreda, daughter of King Alfred, in the year 875. The convent
was transformed into a Benedictine abbey by Hugh Lupus (p. 276), with
the aid of monks from Bee in Normandy, at the head of whom was Anselm,
afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. The extensive abbey was not com-
pleted till nearly 200 years after the death of Lupus (d. 1101), and the
Norman church which he founded does not seem to have stood more than
a century before its re-erection in the Gothic style was undertaken. Parts
of the Norman building still exist however in the present cathedral
, ,

(see below). The next oldest portions of the existing church are the E. E.
Lady Chapel and Chapter House (1200-1270). The greater part of the choir
is of the early-Dec. period, with geometrical tracery; while the central
 Cathedral. CHESTER. 39. Route. 273
tower, the W. front, and the upper parts of the nave and S. transept
are late-Perp. (ca. 1485-90). The abbey-church of St. Werburgh became
the cathedral of Chester in 1541 (comp. p. 272). Considerable remains of
the secular buildings of the abbey still exist (see post), and aiford a good
opportunity for studying monastic arrangements.
Perhaps the best general view of the exterior of the cathedral is ob-
tained from the city-wall to the E., whence an interesting historical
study may be made of the different forms of tracery in the windows, from
the E. E. of the Lady Chapel to the late-Perp. of the clerestory of the S.
transept. The W. front contains a fine Perp. window, but its general effect
is somewhat poverty-stricken, and it is besides partly masked by its struc-
tural connection with the King's School, a fine modern building by Blom-
field on the site of the old episcopal palace, which itself replaced the
abbot's lodging. Among the other notable points of the exterior are the
Tudor S. W. Porch with its parvise, the flying buttresses, the curious
insertion of a doorway in the structure of one of the windows of the N.
choir-aisle , the singular dip of the mouldings of two of the adjoining
windows, the apsidal termination of the S. choir-aisle, and the fine toothed
ornamentation on the cornice of the Lady Chapel.
Interior. Entering by the S. Doorway, we find ourselves at the W.
end of the Nave, which is raised by a few steps above the level of the rest
of the church. This is the best point for a general view of the interior,
the rich warm colour of the stone producing a very pleasing effect. The
elevated W. part of the nave is late-Perp., while the rest of the bays of
the nave and also the S. aisle and the S. transept are in the Dec. style. The
wall of the N. aisle is Norman, and at its W. extremity is an interesting
fragment of the Norman church , restored as a baptistery. At the other
end of the aisle is a Norman doorway, leading to the cloisters. The fan-
vaulting of the nave is of oak, and was designed by Sir G. G. Scott. The
large boss in the centre bears the arms of the Prince of Wales (Earl of
Chester). At the W. end of the S. aisle is the Consistory Court, with
Jacobean fittings. Two flags suspended at the W. end of the S. wall of
the nave were present at the battle of Bunker's Hill. — The N. Tkan-
sf.pt, which we enter by passing under the handsome modern organ-
screen, is of great interest for the examples it contains of early and late
Norman workmanship , the lower and earlier portion showing much
smaller stones and much wider joints. The windows and the flat roof
are Perp. additions. This transept contains the monument of Bishop Pearson
(d. 1686), the learned author of the 'Exposition of the Creed'. The stained
windows are modern. A memorial to Randolph Caldecott (1846-S6), the
artist, was placed here in 1883. —
The South Transept, as large as the
choir and four timet.' as large as the N. transept, is a curious result of the
disputes between monastic and secular clergy which formerly played so
large a part in the ecclesiastical history of England. The monks of St.
Werburgh, anxious to extend their church, were unable to build towards
the N. on account of the monastery-buildings, and could do so towards
the S. only by annexing the neighbouring parish-church of St. Oswald.
To effect this scheme they gave the parishioners a new church in another
part of the town, and ultimately in the 1415th cent, built the present S.
transept, on the site formerly occupied by St. Oswald's. Towards the
end of the 15th cent., however, the monks were compelled to re-admit
the parishioners to their old place of worship; and down to 1880 the
S. transept was separated by a partition from the rest of the cathedral
and used as a parish-church. Another church (St. Thomas's) has now
again been erected for parochial use, the partition has been removed, and
the transept has been restored.
'Choir. The early -Dec. architecture of the choir is richer and finer
than that of the nave. The triforium, only indicated in the nave, is here
a distinct feature. The "Stalls (15th cent.) are perhaps the finest specimen
of wood-carving of the kind in England, equalled if anywhere by those
at Lincoln alone. The Episcopal Throne , the Pulpit , the rich marble
flooring, and the painted oak vaulting are all modern. The Altar is con-
structed of olive, oak, and cedar-wood from Palestine, and the tesselated
p.- —— ir'g fif-nt Rriiiin.i 2ml Ji'rlit 13
274 Route 39. CHESTER. Cathedral.

border in the floor in front of it i3 composed of fragments from the Temple

enclosure at Jerusalem. Most of the metal work in the choir is by
Skidmore of Coventry, The large candelabra by the altar are of Italian
cinquecento work. —
The N. Aisle of the choir still contains a few relies
of the original Norman building, such as the base of an old pier at the
W. end; and the point where the Norman apse ended is indicated by a
line of dark marble in the floor. The present E. end of the aisle is
late-Perp. (ca. 1500). The interesting little Canons' Vestry, now entered
from this aisle, but originally from the N. transept, is partly E. E.,
partly Norman (W. side). The S. Aisle now again terminates in an apse,
restored as a memorial of Mr. Thomas Brassey, the railway-contractor,
and reproducing the original form of the E. E. choir. In the middle of
this aisle is a tomb, which an absurd tradition describes as that of Emp.
Henry IV. of Germany (d. 1106), who is really interred in the Cathedral
of Spires; it probably the resting-place of an abbot.
is
The Ladtt Chapel, now entered from the N. aisle by a doorway oc-
"'

cupying the place of one of the original windows (comp. p. 273), is a good
specimen of pure E. E., restored in the original style. The chapel to
the N. of the Lady Chapel formerly sheltered the shrine and relics of St.
Werburgh, and now contains the canopied tomb of Bishop Graham (d. 1865).
The Tower, the lower part which seems to be of the 14th cent., while
the upper part is Perp., commands a good view (fee Is. see p. 272). ;

The 'Chapter House and its vestibule, entered either from the N.
transept or from the cloisters, are also in the E. E. style, and are some-
what earlier than the Lady Chapel, with which they vie in beauty. In
the vestibule we should notice the graceful way in which the mouldings
of the pillars run continuously up to the vaulting, without the interposi-
tion of capitals. The Chapter House, which like other early chapter-houses
is rectangular, contains the cathedral-library. The modern stained glass
in the fine E. window, depicting the history of St. Werburgh, is the best
in the cathedral. The side-windows have double mullions.
Cloisters and Refectory. The conventual buildings of St. Werburgh
lie to the N. of the church, instead of occupying the more usual posi-
tion to the S., a fact which is probably due to the want of space on
that side between the church ana the boundary of St. Oswald's parish.
From the cathedral we enter the Cloisters by the Norman door at the
E. end of the N. aisle. The style of architecture is Perp., and on the S.
and part of the W. side the arcades are double. In the S. cloister, which
has been lately rebuilt, we see the Norman work in the N. wall of the
nave ; and at its W. end diverges a Norman passage leading to the N. W.
front of the cathedral. A narrow vaulted chamber in the early-Norman
style extends along the W. cloister from N. to S. The E. cloister is
bounded by the Fratry (lately restored), the Maiden Aisle (a passage leading
to the old infirmary), and the vestibule of the chapter-house (see above).
Near the N. E. corner is the staircase leading to the Dormitory, which formed
the second story of this part of the building. Several of the early abbots
were buried in the S. cloister, as is Dean Howson (d. 1885), one of the
authors of a well-known 'Life of St. Paul
1
. —
To the N. of the cloisters
stands the "Refectory, an interesting E.E. structure, part of which has
been cut off by a passage made from the cloisters to Abbey Square. It con-
tains a very fine E. E. 'Lector's Pulpit, with a staircase in the wall (near
the S.E. corner), an arrangement seldom met with elsewhere in England.
In Market Square, to the W. of the cathedral, stands the new Town
Hall (PI. D, 3), a building in the Italian style with a tower 160 ft.
high. Nearly opposite, to the N. of the King's School (p. 273), is
the Abbey Gateway (14th cent.), leading into Abbey Square.
We now follow Foregate St., as far as Park Road , leading to
Orosvenor Park (PI. F, 3, 4), presented to the town by the late Mar-
quis of Westminster, to whom a statue by Thornycroft has been
, ,

erected. A good view of the river is obtained from the S. side

 ;

St. John's. CHESTER. 39. Route. 275

of the Park. The path leading to the W. from the statue leads straight
to St. John's. Near the church is the 'Anchorite's Cell', in which,
according to a curious legend, King Harold lived as a hermit after
the battle of Hastings, where he had been wounded, but not slain.
The *Church of St. John (PI. E, 4), finely situated above the
Dee, dates from the close of the 11th cent., and occupies the site of
an earlier Saxon church. It was here that Peter de Leia, Bishop of
Lichfield, set up his throne when he transferred the seat of his di-
ocese to Chester in 1076 (p. 270), and thus St. John's may claim to
rank as the second cathedral in the city. The present building,
however, is a mere torso, consisting of little more than partof the nave
of the original collegiate church, which was perhaps a finer edifice
than St. WerburgVs itself. The choir and chancel, now in pictur-
esque ruin, were crushed by the falling of the central tower in
1470 the W. front was destroyed by a similar accident a century
;

later and the massive detached tower on the N. W. also fell in 1881.
;

We enter by the N. porch, which has been admirably restored ; above

it is the ancient and battered effigy of an ecclesiastic. The "Interior is an
excellent example of simple yet stately Norman architecture. The beau-
tiful triforium is in the Transition style and dates from about a century
later than the bays below ; the clerestory is E. E. On the S. side of
the chancel is an E. E. crypt or 'chapter-house', containing four interest-
ing Saxon crosses of the 9-lOth centuries. The ruins of the choir exhibit
some very Norman details (key kept by the sexton,
fine late or transitional
who is to be found either in the church or at No. 1, Lumley Place, a
little to the N.). According to two singularly parallel and baseless legends,
Henry V. of Germany and Harold, the Saxon king, both spent their last
years in seclusion at Chester and were buried in St. John's (see p. 274 and
above). — Near St. John's is the Episcopal Palace.
From the middle of Bridge St. (p. 272), Grosvenor St. leads
direct towards the S.W. to the entrance of the castle, passing on the
left the Grosvenor Museum and School of Science and Ar' (PI. D, 4
m
daily, adm. 3d.). The museum contains Roman altars, coins, and
inscribed stones found in the city , and other objects of local in-
terest. On the right is an Obelisk to the memory of Matthew Henry
(p. 272). The equestrian statue in front of the castle is that of
Field- Marshal Viscount Combermere (d. 1865), in bronze, by
Marochetti. To the right, opposite the castle, are the Militia Bar-
racks. The Castle (PI. D, 5), originally built by the first Norman
Earl of Chester, now consists of a series of modern buildings, used
as assize-courts, gaol, and barracks. The only relic of the Norman
period is Julius Caesar's Tower, on the side next the river (S. W.), a
square keep used as a powder-magazine. This tower has been recased
with red stone, and has thus lost its venerable appearance.
The ancient history of the city is centred in that of its castle, upon
which a flash of historical interest was also cast in modern times by the
abortive attempt of the Fenians to capture it in 1867. — In the upper story
of the tower is a beautiful little E. E. Chapel, which is most unjuatifiably
used as a storehouse.
The Church of St. Mary (PL D, 5), a good Perp. building ad-
joining the castle on the E., contains a few old monuments.
18*
276 Route 39. HA WARDEN.
The King's Arms Kitchen, a small inn close to the East Gate (reached
by the narrow passage to the N., inside the gate), is the meeting-place of
a mimic corporation , said to have been established by Charles I. The
room in which the society meets has been fitted up in the old-fashioned
style,with a tiled floor; its walls are covered with wooden panels bearing
the names of the officers of the corporation for the last 200 years. The
chair of the 'Mayor' is a handsome piece of oak-carving, above which
are hung the mace and sword of state.

Excursions from Chester.

Eaton Hall, an example of an English aristocratic mansion adorned
,

with all the resoiu'c^s of modern art and fitted up with lavish expen-
diture is the seat of the Duke of Westminster , a descendant of Hugh
,

Lupus (p. 270). It is finely situated on the Dee, 3!/2 M. to the S. of

Chester, and may be reached either by road or by river (steamer or small
boat, see p. 269) in summer a public brake leaves Chester daily for Eaton
;

Hall at2 p.m., returning at 5 p.m. (fare Is., return Is. Gd.). Visitors
to the hall pay a fee of Is. at the door, and tickets of admission to the
gardens (also Is.) may be obtained at the Grosvenor Hotel, from the
Chester booksellers, or at the garden-gate; the proceeds are devoted to
charitable objects. In approaching by steamer we may alight either at
Bccleston Ferry (4<2.), about i'/sM. below the hall, and walk through the
park, or at Eaton Bridge (fare Gd.) just above it. The stable-yard en-
trance by which visitors are admitted is at the N. end of the building.
The present house, the fourth on the same site, is a magnificent Gothic
pile erected by Waterhouse in 1870-82. In front of it is a bronze Statue of
Hugh Lupus by G. F. Watts. The interior is most sumptuously fitted up,
,

and contains numerous modern paintings , including several family-por-

traits by Millais and a few works of Rubens. To reach the Gardens, with
their extensive greenhouses and fine terraces , we turn to the right on
leaving the house. Visitors are allowed to inspect the house and wander
about the gardens without an attendant, and no gratuities are expected.
The Stud Farm (a group of red buildings, visible from the garden-lodge,
to the right of the avenue to Eccleston) contains several race-horses of
renown. Those who wish to return to Chester by the steamer should
make enquiries beforehand as to when and where they can meet it; for
the convenience of visitors to Eaton Hall it often puts in at the bank at
the end of the park, 1 /iM. above Eccleston Ferry. The return-route may
be varied by following the avenue that leads N. W. from the fine iron
gates at the front of the house to (2'/2 M.) the Overleigh Lodge, a few
hundred yards from the Grosvenor Bridge (tramway, see p. 269).
Ha warden. About 6 M. to the E. of Chester lies " Hawarden (pro-
nounced Harden) , the residence of the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone,
a station on the new railway to Wrexham (from Northgate or Liverpool
Road station; comp. p. 269). The house stands in a picturesque park,
containing the ruins of an old castle. Visitors are admitted to the park
and to the old castle from sunrise to sunset; the modern mansion is not
shown. The ruins of the "Old Castle consist mainly of a massive cir-
cular keep, the top of which commands a good view" of the Dee valley;
it probably dates from the end of the 13th cent., and contains a chapel.
Hawarden Church, in which Mr. Gladstone often reads the Lessons, is an
E. E. building, restored, after a destructive fire in 1857, by Sir G. G. Scott.
— About 2 M. to the N. W. of Hawarden (2'/2 M. from Queen's Ferry,
p. 278), are the romantic ruins of Ewloe Castle (13th cent.), in the woods
near which Henry II. was defeated by Owen Gwynedd.
Beeston Castle. A visit may also be paid to Beeston Castle (open
on Mon., Wed., Frid., and Sat.), commandingly situated on a lofty rock,
10 M. to the S. E. of Chester and 3/t M. from Beeston Castle station
(p. 345). The castle belongs to Lord Tollemache, whose park of Peck-
forton is adjacent and may be visited on application at the lodge.
FnoM Chester to Mold and Denbigh, 29'/^ M., railway (L. N. W.)
in li/3 hr. (fares 5s., is., 2s. b^hd.). 5 M. Broughton Hall; 9 M. Hope,
 NORTH WALES. 40. Route. 277

both within easy reach of Hawarden (see p. 274). At (10 M.) Hope
Junction we cross a line running N. to Connah's Quay (p. 278) and
S. to Wrexham (p. 269). — I31/2 M. Mold (Black Lion), a busy little
coal-mining town, with a good 15th cent, church, containing some fine
painted windows. About l*/? M., to the S. is Tower, the curious seat of
the Wynnes, with a lofty square tower of the 15th century. About 1 M.
to the W. is Maes Garmon, where a column erected in 1736 marks the
scene of the 'Alleluia Victory', said to have been gained by the Christian
Britons over the Saxon and Pictish pagans in 420. Pedestrians may walk
from Mold to Ruthin (p. 280), either direct (9 M.), or over the top of Moel
Fammau (p. 280), the highest, of the Clwydian hills ("View of the Vale
of Clwyd, etc.). —
At (29V2 M.) Denbigh we reach the railway from Rhyl
to Corwen.
From Chester to Manchester via Warrington 31 M. , railway
(L. N. W.) in 11/4-2'A hrs. (fares 6*., it. Gd., 2s. iOd.).
,

—From (7 M.)
Helsby a branch diverges to JTooton (p. 322). 9 M. Frodsham, with a Nor-
man church close by, is the junction of a line to Runcorn (p. 345). At —
(16 M.) Warrington we join the Liverpool and Manchester railway (p. 332).
From Chester to Manchester via Northwich, 34 M., railway pChe-
shire Lines') in l l /-i-i 3/t hr. (fares 6s., As. Gd., 2s. IOd.). —
This line tra-
verses a rich salt-district. Most of the stations are uninteresting. Near
(13 M.) Hartford it crosses the main L. N. W. line (comp. p. 340). —
15 M.
Northwich (Angel; Crown), the principal town of the salt-district, with
12,300 inhab. and several salt-mines and brine-springs. An interesting
visit may be paid to the Marston Mine, 300 ft. deep, with a roof sup-
ported by huge pillars of salt. Nearly two million tons of salt are annually
obtained within a radius of 7 M. from Northwich. The frequent sub-
sidence of the earth, owing to the pumping out of the brine, gives a sin-
gular appearance to many parts of the town. —
21 M. Knutsford (Angel),
a small town with 3600 inhabitants. The train now passes Tatton Park,
on the left, an extensive domain belonging to Lord Egerton. —
The train
traverses the pretty valley of the Bollin. 28 M. Altrincham, with 11,250 in-
hab., contains numerous villas of Manchester merchants. —
34 M. Man-
chester, see p. 333.
From Chester to Liverpool, see R. 41; to Bangor and Carnarvon^
see R. 40 a; to Crewe, see p. 345.

40. North Wales.

The district usually included under the name
of North Wales con-
sists of that part of the principality lying to the N. of a line drawn from
Aberystwith to Shrewsbury. It contains some of the finest mountain,
coast, and valley scenery in the kingdom; and few districts of similar
size can vie with 'Snowdonia' in the amount and variety of its natural
attractions. From three to six weeks, or longer, are necessary for any
approach to an exhaustive tour, but a flying visit to some of the finest
points may be made in a few days. Numerous circular tours, varying in
length from a few days to several weeks, have been arranged by the L.
N. W. and G. W. railways, which, along with the Cambrian Railway,
afford the chief means of communication in the N. and S. halves of the
district respectively. The tours may be begun at Chester, Shrewsbury,
Llandudno, and many other points, and the utmost facility is given for
breaking the journey, adopting alternative routes, and the like. The
visitor to Chester who cannot devote more than three days to N. Wales
may apportion his time as follows. 1st Day. Proceed by early train to
Bangor, visit the Menai Bridges, go on by train to Carnarvon, visit the
castle, and take an evening train to Llanberis. 2nd Day. Ascend Snowdon,
making an early start, and take the afternoon coach through the Pass of
Llanberis to Bettws-y-Coed. 3rd Day. Proceed by railway to Blaenau
Ffestiniog; then by the 'Toy Railway' to Port Madoc; by railway to Chester
(or Shrewsbury) via Barmouth and Dolgelley, stopping for the night, if time
permit, at the latter. Alternative routes for 2nd and 3rd days 2nd Day. :
278 Route 40. NORTH WALES. From Chester

Ascend Snowdon and descend to Beddgelert ; visit Pont Aberglaslyn; drive

through Nant Gwynant to Capel Curig and (if there be time), to Bettws-
y-Coed. 3ed Day. Visit the waterfalls, etc., near Bettws, and return through
the Vale of Conway (taking the steamer, if the hour suit, at Trefriw) to
Conway and Chester. It is needless to say that either of these arrangements
involves a good deal of hurry and fatigue, while the walk over Snowdon
to Beddgelert should not be attempted except by fairly robust pedestrians.
— A more leisurely tour of a week, for moderate walkers, may be laid out
as follows. 1st Day. Early train to Llandudno; walk or drive round the
Great Orme's Head ; in the afternoon by train to Bettws (Conway Castle may be
included if time allows). 2nd Day. Fairy Glen and Falls of the Conway
(5 51.); walk or drive through the Pass of Llanberis to Llanberis (1572 M.).
3rd Day. Ascend- Snowdon and descend to Beddgelert. 4th Day. Walk
or drive from Beddgelert to Ffestiniog by the old road (13 M.). Cynfael
Falls. 5th Day. Railway (or on foot) to (372 M.) Duffws; 'Toy Railway'
to Port Madoc; railway to Barmouth and Dolgelley (or walk from Bar-
mouth to Dolgelley, 10 M.). 6th DaY. Ascent of Cader Idris (up and down
372-5 hrs.); Torrent Walk (5 M); Precipice Walk (6-7 M. , if time and
strength permit). 7th Day. Railway from Dolgelley to Chester, stopping
at Llangollen if desired, to visit Dinas Bran and Plas Newydd. —
Tour-
ists who wish to see as much as possible of N. Wales in a single day
will, perhaps, best effect their purpose by joining the coach-route No. 5
(p. 281) from Llandudno. Or they may go to Carnarvon and take the
coach, starting about 11 a. m., which makes the round of Snowdon via
the Snowdon Ranger, Beddgelert, Pen-y-Gwryd, and Llanberis (35 M., in 7
hrs.). In summer a train (L. N. W. R.) runs from Chester to Llanberis
direct , stopping at Rhyl and following stations , and returning in the
evening. As the coaches run in connection with the trains, this route
affords opportunity for a great variety of day-excursions in Snowdonia.
Tourists will find a slight knowledge of the pronunciation of Welsh
names desirable, and they should therefore make acquaintance with the
chief peculiarities of the Welsh alphabet (see Introd.).
Of the following tours, grouped under the general heading of 'North
Wales', the sub-routes a., b., and c. draw a cordon round the district
described, while the others deal with the interior of the circle. To Snowdon,
as the great focus of attraction , a separate section has been allotted.
Aberystwith and Machynlleth , frequently included for touring purposes in
N. Wales, are described in E. 38 ('Central Wales'). Those who wish to
combine S. Wales in one general tour with N. Wales will find no difficulty
in joining this route to RR. 24-29, either from Aberystwith or Shrewsbury.
For other general remarks on Wales, see the Introduction.

a. From Chester to Bangor and Carnarvon. Llandudno.

Anglesey.
Comp. Maps, pp. 307, 318.
6872 M. Railway (L. N. W.) in 2V«-3V 2 hrs. (fares 12s. Sd., 10s.,
5s. Sy-zd.). To Bangor, 60 M., in 13/ 4 -2V2 hrs. (fares lis. Id., 8s. 9d., 6s. 3d.);
to Llandudno, 48 M., in 173-274 brs. (fares 9s., 7s., 5s.). — This is the line
traversed by the Irish Mail to Holyhead (p. 290). The railway skirts the
sea nearly the whole way, while on the other side (left) we have more
or less distant views of the mountains.
On quitting the station the train traverses a tunnel, passes
through the city-wall, and crosses the Shropshire Union Canal and the
Dee. To the left lies the Roodee (p. 271), with the castle beyond it.
The line skirts the Dee. Before reaching (6 M.) Sandycroft we cross
a small brook and enter Flintshire and Wales. 7 M. Queen's Ferry,
near Hawarden (p. 276); 9 M. ConnaKs Quay (p. 276). We now
skirt for several miles the desolate and sandy estuary of the Dee
(the 'Sands of Dee'). 13 M. Flint (Royal Oak), the county-town
 to Carnarvon. RHYL. 40. Route. 279

of Flintshire , is a smoky little town with 5130 inhab. and some

chemical works. To the right are the 'rude ribs' of the old Castle,
the scene of the meeting between Richard II. and Bolingbroke
('Richard II', in. 3) it is said to have been built by Edward I. On
;

the Cheshire coast, on the other side of the estuary, are the small
watering-places of Parkgate and West Kirby (p. 331).
Beyond (16 M.) Bagillt, on a wooded knoll to the left, are the
ruins oiBasingwerk Abbey, a Cistercian house founded by the Earl of
Chester towards the end of the 12th century, l&fz M. Holywell;
the little town (King's Head) lies l'/2 M. to the S. of the station
and takes its name from the sacred Well of St. Winifrid (adm. 2<2.).
This well was formerly held in great veneration, ranking as one of
the 'Seven Wonders of Wales', and still attracts Roman Catholic pilgrims.
It was believed to have risen on the spot where the head of St. Wini-
frid fell to the ground, cut off by a pagan prince whose advances she
had rejected. The red vegetable growth on the stones is believed by the
vulgar to be the stains of St. Winifrid's blood. The Perp. chapel built
over the well is attributed to Margaret, mother of Henry VII.
Near(21M.) Mostyn is Mo sty<n Hall, the seat of the ancient fam-
ily of thatname, where the 'King's Window' is shown as that through
which the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., escaped from
the soldiers of Richaid III. The hall contains a collection of Welsh
antiquities and some rare old MSS.
Downing Ball, 1 M. from Mostyn, was the birthplace (1762) of Pennant
(b. 1762),author of the 'Tour in Wales'. It now belongs to the Earl of
Denbigh and contains the 'Pennant Collection'' of MSS. and antiquities.
The scenery now improves, and a row of wooded hills rises to the
left. To the right we soon come in sight of the lighthouse on Air
Point, the N.W. extremity of the Dee estuary, axii oiHoylake(j>. 331),
at the N.E. end. Near (27 M.) Prestatyn we obtain a good view
of Moel Fammau (p. 280) and the other Clwydian hills to the left,
while the Great Orme (p. 282) may be descried on our right, in front.
30 M. Rhyl (* Westminster, Belvoir, Queen's, facing the sea,
Y3 M. from the station Royal, Mostyn Arms, in the town Alexan-
; ;

dra, Bee, near the station; Hydropathic; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), a

frequented sea-bathing resort with a fine expanse of firm sandy
,

beach, an esplanade and a pier (adm. 1d.~) 700 yds. long.

, Rhyl
possesses little attraction for the tourist except as a convenient
starting-point for excursions in the Vale of Clwyd, at the mouth of
which it lies. The end of the pier affords a fair though distant
view of Penmaenmawr, Carnedd Llewelyn and other Snowdonian
,

mountains. In summer a steamboat usually plies to Liverpool (2s.

6d.), Llandudno (2s.), and the Menai Straits (comp. p. 281 ; 3s.).
About 3 ] /2 M. to the S. E. of Rhyl lie the ruins of Dyserth Castle, the
direct and uninteresting road to which crosses the new Gladstone Bridge.
A pleasanter way is to take the train to Rhuddlan (p. 280) and walk
thence to (3 M.) Dyserth. The castle, which is of early Norman origin,
is strikingly situated on a lofty rock (view). The walk may be prolonged
towards the N. E. to (2>/2 M.) Newmarket, close to which is the extensive
tumulus known as the 'Cop'; and from Newmarket we may go on either
to (3 M.) Prestatyn (see above) or to (4 M.) Mostyn (see above). On the way
to the former we pass the extensive Talargoch Lead Mine. — A public con-
280 Route M. DENBIGH. From Chester

S.W., the
vevance runs daily from Rhyl to Bodelwyddan, 5 M. to the
beautiful modern church of which, with its lofty spire, was erected by
Lady
Willoughby de Broke in memorv of her husband. It is in the Dec. style
of the 14th cent., and the interior is elaborately
adorned with marble,
carved oak, and stained glass. Bodelwyddan is 3 M. from St. Asaph (see
°
°Feom Rhyl to Cokwen, 30 M., railway (L. N. W.) in l»/4-2V< hrs.
(fares 6s 4s. 6d., 2s. 51/2^.). This line traverses the Vale of
Clwyd, a pretty
and fertile valley (20 SI. long}, with no pretension to scenic grandeur.
3 M. Rhtiddlan, with a ruined castle of the i2th cent. (adm. Id.).
6 M. St. Asaph ('Plough; Kinmel Arms), a quiet little episcopal seat
situated on an eminence between the Clwyd and the Elwy. The Catiie
*

deal, which is the smallest in the kingdom, being only 182 ft. in length,
(not one-third of the length of Winchester), is in its present
form mainly-
a Dec building of the 15th cent., though part of the
nave and aisles
date from the second half of the 13th century. It was recently restored by
Scott. The exterior is verv plain, the most conspicuous
feature being the
massive square tower, 100" ft. in height (small charge for ascending). The
interior contains carved oak stalls, some good modern stained glass, and a
few monuments, the most interesting of which are those of a bishop of the
14th cent. (S. transept) and of Mrs. Hemans, the poetess (d. 1835). The see
of St. Asaph was founded bv St. Kentigern about the middle of the 6th
cent., and derives its name "from his successor (d. 596).
The church is
closed except during divine service (on week-days, 8.15 a.m. and 3.15 in
summer; the latter at 5 p. m. in winter), and the keys are kept by Mr. Ro-
binson, lower down in the same street. — About 3V2 M. to the S.W. of
St. Asaph, in the pretty vallev of the Elwy, are
the Cefn Caves, in which
numerous organic remains were found. The caves are only 2'/4 M. from
Trefnant, the station beyond St. Asaph.
the same
11 M. Denbigh (Grown; Bull), the capital of the county of
name, with 6500 inhab., picturesquely situated on the Clwyd and com-
manded by a ruined castle. The latter (adm. 2d.), dating from the reign
of Edward I., commands an extensive view. In 1563 it
was granted by
Queen Elizabeth to Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who afterwards entertained
the Virgin Queen here with great magnificence. The castle afforded
shelter to Charles I. after the battle of Rowton (p. 270),
but was dis-
mantled at the Restoration. It has recently been partly restored, and the
St. Hilary
interior is used as a recreation-ground. The ancient church of
(supposed to have been the garrison-chapel), the extensive remains
ot

another large church begun bv the Earl of Leicester but never

finished,

and the old parish-church at Whitchurch (1 M. to the E.) are all inter-
esting. Henry M. Stanley i3 a native of Denbigh. Denbigh is the junction
of a line to Mold and Chester (see p. 276).
I41/2 Llanrhaiadr. The church, 3 /4 M. to the W., contains a line
M.
contributions
'Jesse' window, said to have been purchased with the
of pilgrims to the adjoining sacred well of Ffynnon Dyfnog.
18 M. Ruthin (Castle; Wynnstay Arms), a quaint little
Welsh town
with a
of 3000 inhab., contains an interesting church, recently restored,
The shared the
fine oaken ceiling in the N. aisle and a modern spire.
Castle
Parliamentarian
fate of manv Welsh strongholds in being captured by the
general Slytton and was dismantled after the Restoration. A
handsome
modern mansion has been erected on part of the site. Ruthin is a good
of the
starting-point for an ascent of Moel Fammau (1823 ft.), the highest
Clwvdfan ran^e, which lies 41/2 M. to the N.W. The "View includes the
entire Clwvd valley, Snowdon, Chester, Liverpool, etc.
-
25 M. D^wen,
with a church containing a fine rood-loft of the 15th century. —
At (30 M.)
Corwen we join the line from Chester to Dolgelley (see p. 303).
On leaving Rhyl the train crosses the estuary of the Clwyd.
affording a view, to the left, of Rhuddlan Castle, the tower of St.
Asaph cathedral, and the spire of Bodelwyddan church.
l
/2 M M
Abergele <y Pensarn (Ilesketh Arms, Bee, at Ahergele Cambrian,
;
 y ;

to Carnarvon. LLANDUDNO. 40. Route. 281

near the station), the former 1 M. inland, the latter a small sea-
bathing resort adjoining the station.
Beyond Abergele, on the heights to the left, is the imposing
turreted mansion of Owrych, 400 yds. long, with a central tower
a great extent
100 ft. high like Chatelherault (p. 480), it consists to
;

merely of frontage, built for effect. Immediately beyond Gwrych, the

huge but shallow cave of Cefn Ogo is conspicuous in the cliffs to the
left. —39 2 M. Old Colwyn (Marine Hotel) 41 M. Colwyn . —
Bay (*Pwllychrochan Hotel, with fine grounds ; Colwyn Bay Hotel
Coed Pella Hotel Imperial, near the station Hydropathic), a rising
; ;

watering-place, with good bathing, and numerous pleasant walks

among the wooded hills and valleys to landward. To the W. is the
village of Llandrillo (Rhos Abbey Hotel) now joined to Colwyn,
,

with a curious fishing-weir, in which large catches are sometimes

made, and the small and ancient Capel St. Trillo, built over a spring.
The train now crosses the neck of the promontory ending in the
Great Orme and Little Orme, while the fine estuary of the Conway
comes into view in front, backed by the mountains of the Snowdon
range. From (45^2 M.) Llandudno Junction (Junction Hotel
Ferry Farm Hotel ; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms) a short branch-line diverges
to Llandudno, 3 M. to the N. This is also the point of divergence of
the railway toBettws-y-Coed and Ffestiniog (R. 40d.).
Llandudno (comp. Map, p. 307). —
Hotels. Imperial, Queen's,
Adelphi, St. George's, all well situated on the Esplanade, with view of
the sea ; R. & A. about 4s. 6d., D. 4-4*. 6d., 'pens'. ll-13s. per day, 3!/2-
4gs. per week. Royal, Church Walks; Tudno Castle, near the station,
D. 3*. 0d., R. & A. from 3*. 6<J., 'pens'. 8s. 6d. (except in July and Aug.);
Prince of Wales, Lloyd St., R. & A. 3«., table d'hote 3s.; Alexandra,
Clonmel St. —
Numerous Boarding Houses (7-10s. a day). Hydropathic —
Establishments, on the Esplanade (patients 42. per week in summer, 31.
5s. in winter; visitors 31. 10s. and 31.) and under the Little Orme's Head.
Cabs. 1. By distance: Carriage with two horses Is. 6<J. per mile,
one horse or two ponies Is. , one pony or two donkeys 9d. , one donkey
or 1-2 goats 6<*. >/2 M. 9d., Gd.
each, addit. id.j 3d. 2. By time: per —
hour 5s., 3s.,
;

2s., each addit. •/« nT

Is. 6(2.;
,

«
3d., 9<J., Gd., id.
-
—
3. Special fares for the 'Marine Drive' round the Great Orme's Head: 8s.,
5s., 4s., 2s. —
Bath-chairs Is. per hr., and 3d. for each addit. 1 lt hr.
Horses 2s. per hr., ponies Is. Gd., donkeys or mules Gd.
Coaches. 1. Public brakes ply round the Great Orme's Head at frequent
intervals (fare Is.). 2. To the Little Orme's Bead, and back by the Olod-
daeth Woods (Is.), also several times a day. 3. Colwyn Bay (see above), going
by the Vale of Mochdre and returning by Llandudno Junction (fare 2s. 6<J.).
4. To Conway, the Sychnant Pass, Dwygyfylchi, Penmaenmawr, and back.
5. Circular tour to Conway, Trefriw, Llanrwst, Bettws-y-Coed, Capel Curig,
Llyn Ogwen, Pass of Nant Ffrancon, Bethesda (allowing time for a visit
to the quarries), Penrhyn Castle, Penmaenmawr, Conway, and Llandudno,
starting at 8 a.m. and returning at 7.30 p.m. (fare for the whole distance
of 66 M., 12s. ; intermediate distances in proportion).
Steamers. The vessels of the Liverpool, Llandudno, and Welsh Coast
Steamboat Co. ply twice daily each way between Liverpool and ilenai
Bridge, calling at Llandudno, Beaumaris, and Bangor. The voyage from
Llandudno to Liverpool takes 2 3/4 hrs. (1st class 4s. 6d., 2nd class 2s. 6<J.;
return 7s., 4s. 6<2.), that from Llandudno to Menai Bridge f J /2 hr. (2s., re-
turn 3s.) Special excursion-steamers also make frequent trips in summer
to Beaumaris, Bangor, and Menai Bridge, and back (4-6 hrs.; fare 2s. , re-
2S>2 Route 40. LLANDUDNO. From Chester

turn 3s.; to Carnarvon 3s.), to Rhyl and back (4'/2 hrs. ; fare 2s., return
2s. 6d.).— A small steamer also plies In summer from Deganwy (p. 284),
2 31. td the S. of Llandudno, up the river Conway to Conway and Tre-
friw (l'/2 hr. ; fares is.Gd., Is.; return 2s. 6d., Is. 6<t) ; the time of start-
ing depends on the tide.
Boats. Sailing-boats 3s., Rowing-boats 2s. per hour.
The Llandudno Promenade Band plays daily in the season from 11 to
1 at the end of the pier, and from 7 to 9.30 p. m. on the Esplanade.
Llandudno, the most fashionable of Welsh watering-places, is
delightfully situated on the narrow peninsula between Conway Bay
and Orme's Bay, facing the latter, the graceful swell of which is
finely bounded by the bold limestone headlands called the Oreat
and the Little Orme. Of late the town has extended to the S.E.,
across nearly the whole width of the flat neck of the peninsula, and
there are now several houses on Conway Bay also. On this side,
however, the beach is wet and somewhat muddy, contrasting un-
favourably with the smooth and firm sands of Orme's Bay, while on
the other hand it affords a fine view of the Welsh mountains, to
which the houses on the N. bay tunrtheir backs. The population of
Llandudno in 1881 was 4838, and in the season it is frequented by
about 20,000 visitors.
The climate of Llandudno is bracing in summer and comparatively
mild in spring and autumn. The annual temperature is 50.5° Fahr.
Llandudno is a good starting-point for many of the finest excursions in
North Wales, and the two Orme's Heads afford several pleasant walks
and drives in the vicinity of the town. The bathing is good and safe.
Like Brighton, however, Llandudno lacks shade.
After a walk to the end of the Pier (adm. 2d.), which is 1250ft.
long and commands a capital view of the town and bay, the visitor
should lose no time in exploring the *Great Orme's Head. This
huge rocky promontory, rising precipitously to a height of 700 ft.
above the sea, shields Llandudno most effectually from the keen N.W.
winds and forms a grand feature in almost every view of the town.
The "Marine Drive, 5'/2 M. long, which has been constructed round
the face of the cliffs, is one of the finest drives in Great Britain. We
enter it at a toll-house (Id., carriages 6d.) a little to the N. of the pier.
The road ascends steadily, with nearly vertical walls of rock above and
below, to O/2 M.) Pentrwyn, the N.E. angle of the promontory, where we
obtain a good view of the coast to the E. of Llandudno, with the Clwyd
hills in the background. On an exceptionally clear day the Isle of Man,
the hills of Cumberland, and the coast of Lancashire may be seen to the
right. In '/2 M. more we pass a footpath on the left, leading up to a
farm-house ('Old Farm Refreshments'), and 1/4 M. farther on is another,
diverging at the foot of a bluff crowned with a flag-staff, and ascending to
the (5 min.) old church of St. Tudno (p. 283). At the extreme N. point
of the promontory, 3/4 M. farther on, is a Lighthouse (visitors admitted),
below which is the Hornby Cave, where the brig 'Hornby' was wrecked
in 1824. After passing the lighthouse we gradually obtain a splendid "View
of Anglesey, Puffin Island, the coast of N. Wales from Bangor to Conway,
the Conway estuary, and the mountains of Snowdonia. Among the nearest
and most conspicuous of the lastare (named from right to left) Moel Wnion,
the rounded top of Y Foel Fras, Penmaenmawr (on the coast), Tal-y-Fan,
Penmaenbach, and Conway Mountain (the last two in the foreground, near
Conway). Farther back, to the right of Y Foel Fras, is Carnedd Llewelyn,
beyond and to the right of which the peaked summit of Snowdon itself
may be descried on a clear day. We now descend along the S. side of
 to Carnarvon. ORME'S HEAD. dO. Route. 283

the headland, passing (l'/g M. from the lighthouse) the scanty remains
of Qogarth Abbey. Conway Castle (p. 284) is well seen almost straight
ahead. On reaching the toll-house at the other end of the drive we turn
to the left, leaving Conway Bay on the right, and return to Llandudno
by Abbey Eoad. The direction just described is the preferable one in which
to make the circuit of the Great Orme.
Walkers should not omit to ascend to the top of the Great Orme,
either direct, by a steep road ascending from Church Walks, at the N.
end of the town, or by the path ascending to St. Tudno's Church from
the Marine Drive (see p. 282). In the former case we pass Kendrick's Cave
and Camera Obscura and enjoy fine views of Llandudno as we ascend.
Near the top, where the road forks, we keep to the right, and in 4 min.
more we reach a gate where a placard points out the path to the old
church. [The other branch of the road leads to the Telegraph Station,
now an inn.] We 1
pass the 'Farm Refreshments on the left, cross a field,
and soon come in sight of the church.
St. Tudno's Church is a small building of a most primitive and unpre-
tending character, dating from the 15th cent, (restored in 1855), but oc-
cupying the site of an older structure (12th cent.). It is said to mark the
site of the cell of St. Tudno, a hermit of the 7th cent., who has be-
queathed his name to the modern watering-place (Llandudno, i.e. church
or village of Tudno). The interior contains an ancient font and two in-
cised coffin lids of the 13th century. The church of St. Tudno is much
frequented on Sun. evenings in summer, and the service is sometimes
held in the open air. From the church we may continue our walk to the
lighthouse (p. 282) or ihe signal-station, enjoying extensive views of land
and sea. — The old copper mines, above the Happy Valley, are believed
to have been worked by the Romans and ancient Britons.
The *Iiittle Orme's Head looks much less rugged than its big
brother, but a closer acquaintance will show that its cliffs are fully
as picturesque and imposing.
To reach them we follow the road along the shore towards the E.,
which begins to ascend about l'/i M. from the town. About 1 /i M. beyond
the house at the foot of the ascent there is a break in the wall to the
left, where we leave the road and ascend across turf to a small gate On
passing through the gate we may ascend to the left, direct to the top of
the headland, or make the entire circuit of it by following the path to
the right, soon passing through another gate in an iron fence. The sum-
mit is marked by a cairn, from which a most extensive and beauliful
view is obtained, including Llandudno and Snowdonia (comp. p. 2S3) on
(he W., and the Clwydian hills and vale on the E. The seaward edge of
the headland, with its cliffs descending sheer into the sea from a height
of 300-400 ft., is also very fine.
On regaining the high-road we may continue our walk to 0/4 51.) a
point where four roads meet. That to the left leads to (2'/2M.) Llandrillo
(p. 281) and (1 M.) Colwyn Bay, passing near the old farm-house of Pen-
rhyn, to which two curious legends attach. Either of the roads to the
right will bring us, more or less directly, to the (1 M.) pleasant wooded
grounds of Gloddaeth House , the seat of the Mostyn family. The curious
tower of Llandrillo Church, with double-stepped battlements, is seen in
the distance, to the left. The direct route from Llandudno to (2 M.) Glod-
daeth diverges from the shore-road beyond Craig-y-Don Terrace.
The low wooded hills to the S. of the Little Orme's Head afford many
pleasant rambles. The best point of view is "Pabo Hill, which rises
about 2 M. to the S. of the Little Orme , and about 3 M. , in a direct
line, to the S.E. of Llandudno. We may either reach it by the Gloddaeth
woods (see above) , or follow the Conway road to a point >/2 M - beyond
the village of (13/4 M.) Eglwys Rhos, with its pretty church, and then
diverge to the left. By the latter route we pass the old mansion of
(2'/4 M.) Bodyscallen, the grounds of which are open on Tues. and Thurs.,
2-5 p.m. — The favourite boating-excursions (comp. p. 282) are to the caves
in the cliffs of the Great and Little Orme, which can only be reached
by
284 Route 40. CONWAY. From Chester

water. In fine weather both these excursions are very enjoyable, and the
sheer precipices of the two headlands are seen to great advantage from
below. Perhaps the most interesting cave is the Llech, in the Great Orme,
which is said to have been fitted up as a marine summer-house by a far-
back member of the Mostyn family. Good deep-sea fishing may also be had.
Conway (see below), with its picturesque castle, is within 4 M. of
Llandudno, and may be easily reached byroad, by river, or by rail.
In the last case the traveller should alight at Llandudno Junction and
walk across the Suspension Bridge. About halfway between Llandudno
and Conway lies Deganwy (Deganwy Castle Hotel), commanded by a small
hill (250 ft. ; view), which is crowned with the scanty ruins of a castle
built by Hugh Lupus (p. 270). Deganwy is the starting-point of the small
steamer which ascends the Conway to Trefriw (conip. pp. 283, 307). The
small pier lies a little below (to the N. of) the railway station. At Con-
way the steamboat-pier is just above the bridges.
From Llandudno Junction to Bettws-y-Goed wad. Ffestiniog, see R. U)d.

Beyond Llandudno Junction the train crosses the wide mouth

of the Conway by an iron Tubular Bridge, 410 ft. long and 18 ft.
above high-water mark, constructed by Robert Stephenson and Fair-
bairn in 1846-48, and similar to that over the Menai Strait, though
on a smaller scale (see p. 288). The road crosses the river by a
graceful suspension-bridge (V2^0 D Y Telford, close to the railway.
45^2 M. Conway (Castle; Ersicine Arms ; Castle View), also called
Aberconway, is an ancient and picturesque little town on the left
bank of the Conway, formerly strongly fortified, and still surrounded
with walls, which are pierced by four Moorish-looking gates built
at the time of the Crusades. Among the few remaining mediaeval
buildings is the Plas Mawr, a timber house dating from 1584, and
said to have been once occupied by Queen Elizabeth and the Earl
of Leicester; it stands in a lane leaving the High St. nearly oppo-
site the Castle Hotel. The Church of St. Mary mainly in the Dec.
,

style, contains a fine rood-loft and the monument of Nicholas Hooker,

the 41st child of his father and himself the father of 27 children.
*Conway Castle is finely situated on a rock rising above the
river, and as seen from the E. (e. g. from the suspension bridge) is
perhaps the most beautiful ruin in Wales. It was built by Ed-
ward I. in 1284, to hold the Welsh in check, and was designed by
Henry de Elreton, the gifted architect to whom we also owe the
castles of Carnarvon and Beaumaris.
In shape the castle is an irregular oblong, the walls of which, 12-15 ft.
in thickness , are strengthened by eight massive , circular towers. Each
of the towers was formerly surmounted by a graceful turret, as at Car-
narvon, but only four of these now remain. We enter (adm. 3d.), at the
N.W. angle, by a (light of steps ascending to the W. front. From the
terrace at the top we pass, to the left, through a portcullised gateway, into
the Great Court. To the right is the Banqueting Sail, 130 ft. long and
32 ft. wide; the roof and floor are gone, but the level of the latter may be
traced by the fireplaces. The Chapel was at the E. end of the hall. Near
the E. end of the court is the old well, beyond which we pass into the
Inner Court, enclosed by the dwelling-rooms of the castle. The N. E. or
Queen's Tower contains Queen Eleanor's private oratory, with a beautiful
oriel window. The tower opposite (S.E.), called the King^s Tower, has a
dungeon below it. The so-called 'Broken Tower\ to the W. of the last,
lost much of its picturesqueness by reconstruction. The terrace at the
 to Carnarvon. ABER. 40. Route. 285

E. end of the castle, where there was formerly an entrance from the river,
affords a good view of the Conway. For a view of the town of Conway
visitors should ascend to the top of the walls.
Edward I. himself was hesieged by the Welsh in this castle, and is said
to have been in imminent danger until the subsidence of 'Conway's foaming
flood' allowed reinforcements to reach him. In the Great Civil War it was
held for the king, first by Archbp. Williams, a native of Conway, and then
by Prince Kupert, but had to yield to the Parliamentarians.
On leaving the castle, visitors may take a pleasant stroll along the
wooded knoll of Bodlondeb, rising from the Conway just to the N. of the
town. The walk may be extended (W.) to (2 M.) Conway Mount (807ft.), or
the Town Bill, on the top of which are traces of a fortified camp (fine view).
We may follow the ridge westwards to Allt Wen, and descend into the
Sychnant Pass (550 ft.), whence we may either return to (2 l /2 M.) Conway
by the main road, or go on to (1 M.) Dwygyfylchi (see below), Penmaenmawr
(2 M. see below), or the (3/4 M.) Fairy Glen (see below).
;

As the train leaves Conway we have a view of Llandudno and the

Great Orme to the right, and of Conway Mount to the left. We pass
under Penmaenbach by a tunnel, beyond which Anglesey and Puffin
Island come in sight on our right, in front. To the left are Dwygy-
fylchi (see below) znAFoel Llys (1180 ft.). 50 M. Penmaenmawr —
(Penmaenmawr Hotel; Mountain View), a pleasant little marine
resort, is delightfully situated at the foot of the hill of the same
name ('great head of the rock' 1550 ft.), a huge mass of crystalline
;

rock descending almost vertically to the sea and forming the north-
ernmost buttress of the Snowdon range.
A pleasant and easy walk may be taken to the pretty little Fairy Glen
(adm. id.), either direct (l 3/4 M.), or via, the village of Dwygyfylchi (Doo-
i-gi-vulchy) and the Sychnant Pass ('dry valley'; 2>/2 M.). The top of Pen-
maenmawr Hill (ascent 1 hr.), with its numerous granite quarries, is crown-
ed with the remains of an ancient fort and commands a view ranging from
Snowdon on the S. to the Isle of Man on the N. Good walkers may follow
the semicircular ridge, of which Penmaenmawr forms the N.W. horn, to
(2 hrs.) Foel Llys (1180 ft.), and descend thence to their starting-point. On
a hill about halfway round the semicircle are the Meini-Birion ('long
stones'), a circle of standing stones of doubtful origin. The direct route
from Penmaenmawr to the (2 M.) Meini-Hirion is through the 'Green Gorge'.
52Y2 M. Llanfairfechan (Queen's), a small watering-place. —
55 M. Aber (Bulkeley Arms), a village situated ^2 M. from the
coast, at the mouth of a lovely glen. Aber lies immediately oppo-
site Beaumaris in Anglesey, and it was once possible to cross the
sands at low water; several persons, however, were drowned in the
attempt in 1817. In the middle of the village is a mound called
the Mwd, said to have been the site of a castle where Llewelyn
received the summons of Edward I. to surrender his principality.
The "Glen of the Aber, the entrance to which is flanked by Maes-y-
gaer (753 ft.; view) on theE. and Fridd-du on theW., is one of the prettiest
of the smaller valleys in Wales. About '/2 M. from Aber the road crosses
the graceful Pont Newydd, but the path to the head of the glen and the
(IV2 M.) "Aber Falls keeps to the right and soon crosses a foot-bridge.
The larger fall ('Rhaiadr Mawr') descends in a series of leaps, with a
total height of 180 ft., and after rain is of considerable volume. The
smaller fall, 1 /2 M. to the W., lies on the way to Moel Wnion (1905 ft.;
'Oonion'), the ridge of which offers a pleasant route for returning to
Aber (l-ii/jhr.). — Aber and Llanfairfechan are starting-points for the ascent
of Camedd Llewelyn (p. 288 ; 4-41/2 hrs.), via T Foel Fras (3091 ft.).
 286 Route 40. BANGOR. From Chester

Beyond Aber, Penrliyn Castle (p. 288) is a prominent object on

the right, rising from the woods. The train crosses the valley of
the Ogwen and threads two tunnels, between which the short
branch-line to Bethesda (p. 237) diverges to the left.
60 M. Bangor. — Arrival. The Railway Station lies at the S.W.
extremity of the town, '/2 M. from the cathedral; the principal trains are
met by hotel-omnibuses and cabs. The Steamboat Pier is at the other
end of the town, i'/4 M. from the station.
Hotels. The *George, a large and finely-situated house, command-
ing a view of the Menai Strait and Bridges, lies outside Bangor, I1/4 M.
to the W. of Bangor station, and V* M. from the Menai Bridge station;
R. & A. from 4s. 6<2., table d'hote D. 4s. Gd. — '-British, near the railway-
station, R. & A. from 4s.; "Castle, near the cathedral, similar charges;
Railway, Williams's Temperance, near the station. — In Upper Bangor,
/4 M. from the station, Bellevoe, pleasantly situated, but not so convenient
3

for a short stay, R. & A. 3s. — Railway Refreshment Rooms.

Cabs. Per hour 2s. Gd., each addit. l lt hr. 8d. — From the railway
station to any part of the town is. ; to the George Hotel Is. Gd. ; to Menai
Bridge 2s.; to Penrhyn Castle 2s. Gd. ; to Bethesda 5s. Gd. ; to Penrhyn
Quarries 6s. Gd. ; to Beaumaris 7s. Carriage and pair about one-half
more. Driver's fees and moderate luggage included.
Coaches. Coach daily through the Pass of Nant Ffrancon to Llyn
Ogwen, C'apel Curig, and Bettws-y-Coed (21 M. in 5 hrs.; 6s.). Omnibus to
Beaumaris via the Suspension Bridge several times a day (7 M.; Is. Gd.).
Steamers. To Llandudno and Liverpool daily in summer, fares 5s.,
3s., return 8s., 5s. (comp. p. 281); sometimes also up the Menai Strait to
Carnarvon. Small steamer to Beaumaris several times daily from Garth
—
Point (in 20 min.; fare Gd.). Garth Ferry (steam-launch) across the strait, 2d.
Boats. Sailing-boats 3s. per hr., Is. for each addit. Vz hr. rowing
;

boats 2s. and Is. Boat to Menai Bridge 4s., Britannia Tubular Bridge 5s.,
Puffin Island 10s., Carnarvon 12s. Gd. Return-fares one-half more.
Bangor ('high choir'), the seat of a bishop, is a brisk little
town with 11,370 inhabitants. Lower Bangor, containing the rail-
way-station and the business-portions of the town, occupies the
lower part and the mouth of a narrow valley, and consists mainly
of one long and irregular street. Upper Bangor, the pleasantest re-
sidential quarter, is beautifully placed on the ridge separating this
valley from the Menai Straits. The town is an excellent centre for
excursions in N. Wales, but lacks the bathing and other attractions
of a seaside place. Port Penrhyn, the harbour of Bangor, lies to the
E. of the lower town, and carries on a busy traffic in slates.
The Cathedral, in a low-lying situation near the middle of
the town, is among the smallest and plainest of English minsters,
but possesses some architectural interest. The original church on
this site seems to have been erected in the 6th century, and was
followed by three others, the first of which was destroyed in 1071,
the second during the Welsh wars of Edward I. (ca. 1282), and the
third by Owen Glendower in 1404. The choir was rebuilt about
1496, and the rest of the building early in the 16th century. A
complete restoration was undertaken in 1870, under the superin-
tendence of Sir Gilbert Scott. In style it affords examples of E. E.,
Dec, and Perpendicular. The central tower has not yet been com-
pleted.
 to Carnarvon. BETHESDA. 40. Route. 287

Interior. The interior of the church is plain but harmonious. The

nave and aisles have flat timber roofs, while the choir has good vaulting.
The nave, the presbytery, and the choir-windows are Perpendicular. The
rest of the choir, the transepts, and the S. aisle-windows are Decorated.
In the S. transept is the tomb of Owen Gwynedd, Prince of Wales (d. J.169).
— The Sun. services are held at 8, 11.30, and 4, week-day services at 8
and 5 (3 in winter).
The Bishop's Palace and the Deanery, adjoining the Cathedral, are
unpretending buildings.
Bangor is the seat of the University College of North Wales,
which is established in a large and plain building at the E. end of
the town. The college, founded in 1883, has 130 students, numer-
ous open scholarships, and excellent biological and other labora-
tories. Visitors should apply at the university-building.
In the High St., between the Cathedral and the station, is a
Museum, containing a small ethnological collection. The steep slope
of the gorse-clad hill forming the S. boundary of the valley in which
the town lies has been laid out as Recreation Grounds, affording
admirable views to seaward, including the Great Orme's Head. A
wall at the top shuts out the view of the Snowdon region, but the
visitor may see it by extending his walk to Felin Esgob, or the
Bishop's Mill, 1/2 M. to the S. — The Menai Park in Upper Bangor
commands fine views of the Menai Strait and Bridges.
Penrhyn Castle and Quarries. Tourists who do not walk or drive
the whole way may take the train to (G M.) Bethesda (Is., 9d., 6d.), visit
the (1 M.) Slate Quarries, and walk back to Bangor via the Castle (6 M.).
Public waggonettes also ply between Bangor and Bethesda (fare 6(2.). The
milestones count from the E. end of Bangor, 1 M. from the station.
Bethesda (Douglas Arms, Victoria, Waterloo, all second class), now a
busy and ugly little quarry men's town with about 10,000 inhab., was for-
merly a small and pretty village named Glan Ogwen. Most of the quar-
rymen are Methodists. — To reach the quarries we cross the bridge V2 M.
to the S. of the centre of the town and ascend to the left to 0/j M.) the
entrance, where we meet the guide. No charge is made for admission, but
the guide expects a small fee. The interesting blasting operations take
place at 25 min. past each hour; the dinner-hour (11.30 to 12.30) should
be avoided.
The Penrhyn Slate Quarries, the largest in the world, employ up-
wards of 3000 quarrymen and produce about 360 tons of slate per day.
The general appearance of the quarry is that of a huge amphitheatre, the
successive steps or terraces of which are each about 50 ft. in height. At
present the quarry is about 1000 ft. deep, and it is calculated that there
are still 1800 ft. of slate to exhaust before the underlying Cambrian grit
is reached. Small tramway-lines traverse each terrace to convey the slate
to the hydraulic lifts, which raise it to the surface, whence it is dispatched
to Port Penrhyn by a small narrow-gauge railway. The quarrymen, who
(in good times) earn 25-30*. a week, work in gangs of four, two devoting
themselves to the actual quarrying of the slate, and the other two split-
ting and dressing it. The latter operations are interesting to watch, and
the visitor may try his hand at splitting, a feat by no means so easy as
it looks. Only about 10-15 per cent of the slate quarried is of any com-
mercial value. Four different kinds of slate — red, blue, green, and gray
— are found in this one quarry. The dressed slates are classed in different
sizes, named queens, duchesses, countesses, and ladies. Each size must be
of a certain thickness; thus if a 'queen' is found thinner than the standard
she must be cut down to a 'duchess'. — Various little objects carved in
slate may be purchased at the entrance.
In returning from Bethesda to Bangor by road we enjoy a fine view
288 Route 40. PENRHYN. From Chester

of the sea, Anglesey, the Great Orme, and Penmaenmawr, while hehind
us are the Mts. enclosing the pass of Nant Ffrancon (p. 310). — Penrhyn
Castle is also prominent. We reach the entrance to the park at the model-
village of Llandegai, with its pretty church (containing the tomb of Archbp.
Williams, p. 285), 3 M. from Bethesda and 1 M. from Bangor. — Instead
of keeping to the high-road all the way, we may descend from the bridge
leading to the quarry (see p. 287) by a cart-track on the W. side of the
stream, which rejoins the road at a bridge about 1 M. to the N. of Bethesda.
Penrhyn Castle (adm. on Tues. and Thurs., 2-5, by tickets ob-
tainable at the Bangor hotels; 1 pers. 2s., each addit. pers. Is., no gra-
tuities), the seat of Lord Penrhyn, owner of the quarries, is a large and
handsome building, in which the difficulty of accommodating the Norman
style of architecture to modern domestic requirements has been skilfully
grappled with. The keep is an imitation of Rochester Castle. The interior
(visitors ring at the entrance in the keep) contains fine carvings in oak,
ebony, slate, and Anglesey marble, a 'Hirlas Horn (an heirloom of the
1

Elizabethan period), and a few good pictures. 'View from the towers. On
leaving the house we should walk through the shady park to Port Pen-
rhyn (p. 286).
is a good starting-point for ascending CarneddDafydd (3430 ft.)
Bethesda
and Camedd Llewelyn (3482 ft.), twin-peaks, inferior in height to Snow-
don alone among Welsh mountains. The ascent of the former takes 2-3 hrs.,
and the top of Camedd Llewelyn, with which it is connected by a narrow
saddle, flanked on the W. by line precipitous cliffs, may be reached in lhr.
more. The "View from these summits is very similar, embracing the sea,
Anglesey, and the Ormes to the N. the Conway valley to the E. ; Moel
;

Siabod and Cader Idris (in the distance) to the S.; the pyramidal Tryfan
and the Glyders with Snowdon in the background, to the S.W. and
, ;

Elidyr Fawr to the W. — The descent may be made to Capel Curig (p. 316),
Aber (p. 285), or Tal-y-Cafn (p. 307). —A coach runs daily in summer
from Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen (return-fare 2s. Qd.).
The drive from Bangor to Bettws-y-Coed, through Nant Ffrancon, is
described in the reverse direction at p. 310. — The ascent of Snowdon may
be made from Bangor in one day with the aid of the train to Llanoeris
via Carnarvon.
The two magnificent bridges, crossing the Menai Strait and con-
necting the mainland -with the island of Anglesey, form the great
centre of interest in the neighbourhood of Bangor. The *Suspen-
sion Bridge, 2 M. to the W. of the town, was constructed by Tel-
ford in 1819-26, and is a marvel of strength and elegance. To reach
the still more wonderful *Britannia Tubular Bridge, 1 M. to the
S., we cross the Suspension Bridge (id.') and follow the road to the
left on the Anglesey bank.
The Suspension Bridge is 580 ft. long from pier to pier, and 1000 ft.
over all; and the roadway is 100 ft. above the level of the water at high
tide. Each of the 16 chains by which it is supported is 1735 ft. in length
and is passed through 60 ft. of solid rock at each end. By applying at
the cottage at the Anglesey end of the bridge, the traveller may be con-
ducted underground to the place where the chains are fastened. The Menai
Bridge is still the longest suspension-bridge in England; but it is not so
long as the suspension-bridge over the Danube at Budapest, that over the
Hudson at New York, and some others. The bridge commands a line
view of the Menai Strait, the Tubular Bridge, etc.
The Tubdlak Bridge, which was built by Eobert Stephenson in 1846-
50, consists of two parallel rectangular tubes or tunnels, formed by the
combination of innumerable small tubes, firmly rivetted together. The
material is wrought iron, in plates of 1 /-2-i inch in thickness. The tubes
rest upon five piers, one on the shore at each end and three in the water.
The central tower, resting on the Britannia rock which gives name to
Ihe bridge, is 230 ft. high, and the line of rails is 104 ft. above the water
 to Carnarvon. ANGLESEY. 40. Route. 289

The entire bridge is 1840 ft. in length; each of the two central spans is
460 ft. long, each of the side- spans 230 ft. The total weight of iron
in the bridge is upwards of 11,000 tons. In the construction of the bridge
the chief difficulty was found in floating the large central sections of the
tube, each weighing 1600 tons, into their site with the aid of pontoons,
and then elevating them and placing them on the towers by huge hydrau-
lic engines. Allowance has been made, by the use of movable rollers,
for the expansion of the metal by the summer-heat, which sometimes
increases the length of the structure by nearly a foot. On buttresses at
each end of the bridge are colossal stone figures of lions couchant, 12 ft.
high and 25 ft. long. To the inexperienced eye this bridge may at first
appear somewhat insignificant, but a closer inspection, especially from be-
low, soon produces a more adequate appreciation of its enormous pro-
Sortions. To examine the interior a pass from the engineer at Bangor
tation is required. To reach the beach below the bridge we follow a
footpath diverging to the right (N.) at the Anglesey end.
The excursion from Bangor to the Bridges may be made in many ways.
Menai Bridge station (p. 290) is not far from the Suspension Bridge, and
Treborth (p 291) is near the Britannia Bridge. The Beaumaris omnibus
.

(p. 286) crosses the Suspension Bridge. Pedestrians may walk from Bangor
to the Bridges, cross the Suspension Bridge, follow the Anglesey shore to
Beaumaris (4V2 M.) , and return thence by steamer (in all about 12 M. of
walking). The Bridges may also be visited by boat (p. 286).
The Island of Anglesey ('Isle of the English') or Mona (Mod,
derivation uncertain) , which is about 300 sq. M. in extent and
contains 51,416 inhab., offers few picturesque features beyond
Beaumaris Castle, the walk along the Menai Strait, Penmon Priory,
Red Wharf Bay, and the island of Holyhead. It contains, however,
numerous cromlechs, menhirs, and other antiquities.
On a knoll adjoining the Holyhead road, lU M. from the Tubular
Bridge, rises the Angletey Column, erected in 1816 in memory of the Mar-
quis of Anglesey, second in command at Waterloo. The top (90 ft.; adm.
3d.) commands a splendid ^Panorama of Anglesey, the Menai Straits, and
the Carnarvonshire Mts. — Plas Neaydd, seat of the Marquis of Anglesey,
lies l'A M. to the S. ; the grounds, containing two cromlechs, are open to
the public in the absence of the family.
Beaumaris (Williams- Bulkeley Arms, opposite the pier, R. & A. from
1
4s., D. it. 6(2., 'pens . 10s. Gd.; Liverpool Arms), is a quiet little watering-
place, the chief charm of which is the fine view it commands of the op-
posite coast, with the Snowdonian mountains in the background. The
Church dates from the 13th cent., with a choir of the 16th century. The
name Beaumaris, locally pronounced 'Bewmorris', is derived from its
low-lying site ('beau marais'). — Routes from Bangor, see p. 286. The
Liverpool steamers also call here in summer (comp. p. 281).
"Beaumaris Castle (adm. 2(2.), to the N. of the town, is another of
the Welsh fortresses due to the vigour of Edward I. and the genius of
Henry de Elreton (comp. pp. 284, 291). It is an extensive ruin, and in
ground-plan is not very dissimilar to the castles of Carnarvon and Con-
way; but it cannot compete with either of these ruins in external pictur-
esqueness. The castle proper is surrounded by an outer line of circum-
vallation, also strengthened with circular towers. The interior of the large
central court is, however, very beautiful. We enter the quadrangle on the
S. side, and see before us, at the N. end, the remains of the Great Ball,
70 ft. long and 24 ft. broad, lighted by five beautifully-traceried windows
and draped with luxuriant ivy. On the E. side of the court, on the first
floor, is the Chapel, an E. E. room with a Dec. arcade round it and four
squints at the W. end. The various remains of the domestic apartments
are also interesting. At the S. end of the court are the bases of large
circular towers and other indications that apartments similar to those at
the N. end once stood here. Fine views may be obtained from the top
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 19
290 Route 40. ANGLESEY. From Cluster

of the walls. The history of the castle is uninteresting, if we except the

fact that it held out for Charles I., hut had to yield to the inevitable
General Mytton (p. 280).
The grounds of Baron Bill, the seat of the Bulkeley family, on the
hill behind Beaumaris, are open to the public on Thurs. and Sun. after-
noons. The lofty Obelisk, prominent in most views of Beaumaris, is a
memorial to Sir Rich. Bulkeley (d. 1875). —
Benllys, the seat of Col. Lewis,
1 M. to the N.W. of Beaumaris, contains a few paintings, and in the garden
of the lodge next the town ('Curiosity Lodge') is a collection of old stone
fonts and querns.
From Beadmaris to the Tubhlak Bridge, 6 M. The well-shaded
road skirts the shore nearly all the way to the (4'/2 M.) Suspension Bridge
and commands various fine views of the Strait and the opposite mainland.
At low tide the strait contracts to the width of a fair-sized river, expos-
ing large tracts of sand on each side; and it is then not difficult to
realise that it was formerly fordable at the time of ebb (comp. p. 285).
After 2 M. we pass the gates of a drive to Baron Hill, and beyond them
M
reach the ferry to Bangor (2d. ; Inn). After 2 . more the road ascends to
Menai Bridge Village (Victoria; Bulkeley Arms); the railway-station is
on the other side (see below). About V3 M. beyond the village we reach
a gate on the left, from which a path leads through a fir-plantation and
across a causeway to the curious little Llandisilio Church, romantically
situated on an islet. Returning to the road and following it for 1 M. far-
ther, we reach the Anglesey Column and the Tubular Bridge (see p. 289).
Llanfair railway-station (see below) is V2 M. beyond the Column.
Fkom Beaumaris to Penmon Priory, 4 M. Passing the Castle and
crossing the Green towards the N., we reach the road again at (V2 M.) a
modern house called the Friars. Here we take the branch to the right,
and in a few hundred yards turn inland. If we keep to the road we
pass near (2 3/4 M.) Castell Lleiniog, a small Norman stronghold, dating
from 1080. [A detour may be saved by following the shore all the way.]
Penmon Priory, a Benedictine house, was originally founded in the 6th
cent., but the Norman Church, restored in 1854, is the oldest part of the
present buildings. (Key of church kept by the clerk, near the lighthouse,
V2 M. farther on.) To the S. of the church is the ruined Refectory, dating
from the 13th cent. ; the lintel of the window in the S.E. corner is formed
of an ancient British cross. To the E. is a curious old Dovecote. Refresh-
ments may be obtained in the house between the church and the refectory,
on the site of the old prior's lodgings. Interesting old cross in the deer-
park, to the W.
Puffin Island (Priestholm, Ynys Seiriol), separated from the N. E. point
of Anglesey by a channel V2 M. wide, contains the tower of a very an-
cient church, erected in connection with Penmon. The island is frequented
in the breeding-season by great quantities of puffin-auks.
Red Wharf Bay, on the N. coast of Anglesey, 6 M. from Beaumaris
(8 M. by road via Pentraeth), is a picturesque inlet, with smooth and firm
sands. There is a small Hotel at the W. end, and at the E. end is the
village of Llanddona, l'/z M. from which is Bwrdd Arthur, or Arthur's
Table, a height affording the most extensive view in Anglesey.
From the Britannia Bridge (p. 289) the railway runs on, passing Llan-
fair (see above) to Gaerwen, the junction of a line to (18 M.) Amlwch (Di-
norden Arms; 'Bull Bay Hotel, I 3 /* M. to the N.W.), a small town and
watering-place on the N. coast of Anglesey. The railway ends at (22 M.)
Holyhead (Marine Hotel; North Western), the starting-point of the mail-
steamers to Dublin (60 M., in 4 hrs.). The chief object of interest near
Holyhead is the bold, rocky scenery of the "North and "South Stack (light-
house on the latter). Good view from Eolyhead Mountain (720 ft.). The
Breakwater is l J /a M. long.
Continuation of Railway to Carnarvon. Beyond Bangor the
and stops at (61 M.) Menai Bridge
train passes through a long tunnel
Station (view of Suspension Bridge comp. p. 288). Our line di-
;
 to Carnarvon. CARNARVON. 40. Route. 291

verges here from the Dublin mail-route to Holyhead, which runs

to the right through the Tubular Bridge (p. 290). Good views to
the right of the Menai Strait and Bridges. 62 M. Treborth ; 6i lfa - M
Port Dinorwic, the port of the Llanberis slate-quarries.
68'/2 M. Carnarvon. —
Hotels. * Rotal, near the railway-station,
old-fashioned, E. & A. 4*.-, 'Royal Sportsman, Castle Street; Castle,
Castle Sq. ; Queen's, Prince of Wales, Bangor St., unpretending.
Coach daily round Snowdon, via Beddgelert and Llanberis, starting
about ii a.m. and regaining Carnarvon about 6 p.m. (a round of 35 M.).
Ferry Steamer from Victoria Pier, below the Castle, to Anglesey,
several times daily (3d.).
Carnarvon or Caernarvon (Caer-yn-ar-Fon, the 'fort opposite
Mona'), an ancient town with 10,170 inhab., is situated on the
Menai Strait at the mouth of the river Seiont, near the site of the
Roman Segontium. an old-fashioned place, with narrow and
It is
irregular streets and a castle usually regarded as the finest in the
,

kingdom. The central position of the town and its convenient

railway-connections make it a good starting-point for excursions.
The Twt Hill (190 ft.), behind the Royal Hotel (lane to the left,
just beyond the hotel), commands a general view of the town and
castle.
North Road and Bangor Street lead in an almost straight line
from the station to the (V2 M.) * Castle, which occupies the whole
TV. end of the town and is washed on two sides by the waters of the
Seiont and the Menai Strait. It is one of the most imposing and
extensive mediaeval fortresses in Europe and is built entirely of
,

hewn stone. Before entering the castle the visitor should walk round
it, or better still
, cross the Seiont and view it from the oppo-
,

site shore. Carnarvon Castle was begun by Edward I. in 1283, and

may be looked upon as the masterpiece of his architect, Henry de
Elreton (comp. pp. 284, 289). It was not finished, however, till
the reign of Edward II. The castle has recently undergone con-
siderable restoration. Visitors are not admitted to the restored apart-
ments. The principal Gateway (adm. 4d.), on the N. side, is sur-
mounted by a mutilated figure of Edward I.
The ground-plan of the castle is an irregular oblong or oval, origin-
ally divided into two courts by a wall. The walls, 8-14 ft. in thickness,
are strengthened hy several polygonal towers, surmounted by graceful
turrets. Iron standards bearing numbers have been placed in the interior
to mark the site and shape of the different apartments formerly existing
here, and lines are cut in the grass with the same object. Passing through
the principal gateway, we enter the upper court close to the line of demar-
cation between it and the lower court. The most generally interesting
part is the Eagle's Tower, at the W.
end (to the right), in which Edward II.,
the first 'Prince of Wales', is said to have been born in 1284. Most
authorities consider that this has been conclusively disproved; but Sir
Llewelyn Turner, Deputy Constable of the Castle, maintains the ac-
curacy of the popular tradition. The small chamber, which is pointed
out as that in which the prince was born, measuring 12 ft. by 8 ft., is
on the first floor of the tower, on a level with the gallery round the
walls, and overlooking the Menai Strait. The turrets of the Eagle
Tower, the name of which is derived from the eagles placed on one of
them, command a fine view.. The interior of the Queen's Tower has been
19*
292 Route do. NANTLLE. From Carnarvon
restored, and now contains a Masonic Lodge and the armoury of the Royal
Naval Volunteers. —
At the opposite end of the castle is the Queers
Gate, formerly approached by a drawbridge, but now closed. Tradition
points out this gate as the place where the infant Edward was exhibited
to the people as a 'prince of Wales who could speak no English'. There is
also a postern in the base of the Eagle's Tower, from which a flight of
steps descends to the river. —
The 'shouldered arch' is sometimes called
the Carnarvon arch from its general use in this castle.
The Town Walls of Carnarvon still exist, and visitors may
walk round them in than half-an-hour. On leaving the Castle
less
we should turn to the right and pass round its river-front, where
the quay is covered with slate from the quarries of Llanberis (p. 314).
Beyond the Eagle Tower begins an Esplanade, which skirts the
outside of the wall on this side, and forms a pleasant walk along the
Menai Strait. The towers are now occupied by the County Gaol,
the Royal Welsh Yacht Club, the North Wales Training College,
and the vestry of St. Mary's Church (at the N.W. angle).
The site of Segontium, one of the most important Roman stations in
Wales, lay about V2 M. to the E. of Carnarvon, on the road to Bedd-
gelert, and traces of it may still be seen on the outskirts of the town and
near the church of Llanbeblig, the mother-church of Carnarvon. From Llan-
beblig we may walk across the fields to the Park on the S. bank of the
Seiont, and return to the town by the Aber ferry (comp. p. 291).
From Carnarvon to Llanberis, see p. 314; to Beddgelert, see p. 317;
to Afon Wen, Port Madoc, and Barmouth, see below.

b. From Carnarvon to Afon Wen, Fort Madoc, and Barmouth.

451/2 M. Railway (L. N.W.) from Carnarvon to (18 M.) Afon Wen in
3/4-l hr. (fares 3s. id., 2s. 3d., is. 6rf.); from Afon Wen (Cambrian Rail-
way) to (27'/2 M.) Barmouth in I1/4-I1/2 hr. (fares 5s. Id., 3s. 6d., 2s. 3i/2<Z).
The first part of this sub-route, completing the 'outer circle' of rail-
way round North Wales, is comparatively little traversed by tourists,
most of whom make their way from Carnarvon to Port Madoc via Snowdon
and Beddgelert (comp. p. 317). —
Comp. Map, p. 318.
As
the train leaves Carnarvon we have a good retrospect of the
castle to the right. It then crosses the Seiont. 3^4 M. Dinas, the
junction of the narrow-gauge line to Snowdon Ranger and Rhyd-ddu
(p. 317). —
7 M. Pen-y-Groes , the junction of a short line to
(2 M.) Nantlle ('Nanthly' Inn), a conglomeration of slate-quarries.
;

Fine view to the left, up the valley, of Snowdon and the rocky hill
called Old Meredith, resembling an upturned face.
The walk from Nantlle, through the pass, to the Carnarvon and Bedd-
gelert valley, passes two or three small lakes and commands a still finer
view of Snowdon. The distance to the Snowdon Ranger is about 6 M.
— On the coast, 4'/2 M. to the S.W. of Pen-y-Groes, is the village of
Clynnog (Newborough Arms), with a large and handsome Perp. church
15-16th cent.), the holy well of St. Beuno, and a good cromlech.
11 M. Pantglas lies nearly opposite the Rivals ('Yr Eifl';
1890 ft.), a graceful hill or group of hills to the right. On the E.
peak are the remains of a British stronghold called Tre'r Ceiri
(*View). —
Moel Hobog (p. 319) also comes into view on the left.
18 M. Afon Wen (Rail. Rfmt. Rooms) is the point where the
L.N. W.R. joins the Cambrian system (carriages changed). The station
 to Barmouth. PORT MADOO. 40. Route. 293

(there is no village) lies on Cardigan Bay, and commands fine

views both seawaid and landward.
From Afon Wen to Pwllheli 4 M. , railway in 10 min. (fares 9<J.,
Gd., 4<f.). — Pwllheli, ,

pron. Poothlhely (Grown; Tower; Madryn Arms), the

terminus of the Cambrian Railway, is a small and quiet bathing-place,
with perhaps the finest sandy beach in Wales and a new esplanade opened
in 1890. Fine view from the Carreg-y-Rimbill, or Gimlet Bock, on the W.
side of the harbour.
Pwllheli forms the most convenient headquarters from which to
explore the lleyn Promontory, a district little known and of compara-
tively small attraction. The inn-accommodation is of the scantiest. The
principal excursions from Pwllheli are along the coast to (14 M.) Aberdaron
(Ship Inn; omn. or mail-cart 2s.), and to the N.W. to (T/2 M.) Nevin (Nan-
horon Arms; omn. or mail-cart is.). Pwllheli may also be made the
starting-point for the ascent of the Rivals (p. 292), which lie about 6 M.
to the N. (better from Nevin). — Aberdaron is about 3 M. from Braich-
y-Pwll, the 'Land's End' of N. Wales, and the walk thither reveals some
fine coast-scenery. A conspicuous feature in the views is Bardsey Isle,
which lies about 2 M. off the point and may in fine weather be reached
from Aberdaron (boat about il.). The island was formerly a favourite
burying-place , and contains according to tradition the graves of 20,000
saints. It also contains the scanty remains of a once famous abbey.
From Afon Wen the railway to Port Madoc runs to the E., along
the N. coast of Cardigan Bay, to (22y2 M.) Criccieth (George IV.;
White Lion), a small sea-bathing resort, the chief attraction of
which is its nearness to the finest part of Snowdonia. Its ruined
Castle (adm. Id.), on a hill between the station and the shore, was
probably built by Edward I. it commands a good view of the Mts.
;

of Carnarvon and Merionethshire , and of Harlech Castle (p. 294)

on the other side of the bay. —
Beyond Criccieth the train quits
the coast for a short distance. Fine mountain-view to the left.
28 M. Port Madoc (Sportsman ; Queen's, close to the station),
the port for the Ffestiniog slate- quarries is the starting-point of
,

the 'toy-railway' to Ffestiniog (p. 313), and of the direct road to

Beddgelert and Snowdon from the S. (Coach to Beddgelert, 8 M.,
several times daily; fare 2s. 6d. ; comp. p. 319.)
About 1 M. to the N. of Port Madoc, on the road to Beddgelert, lies
Tremadoc, a village at the foot of a picturesque line of cliffs. Both places
take their name from a Mr. Madocks, M. P., who founded them at the
beginning of this cent, and at the same time reclaimed the Traeth-Mawr
(see Map, p. 318) by building a huge embankment across the mouth of
the estuary. Shelley, who spent part of 1812-13 at Tanyrallt, Tremadoc,
took a keen interest in the Faust-like undertaking of Mr. Madocks , and
freely spent his energies and money in promoting it. Moel-y-Qest (750 ft.),
the hill to the W. of Port Madoc, commands an extensive panorama.
Beyond Port Madoc the train crosses the above-mentioned em-
bankment, or 'Cob', which affords a grand *View of Snowdon, rising
at the head of the valley to the left, with Moel Hebog to the left
of it, and the Glyders, Cynicht, and Moelwyn to its right.
30 M. Mynffordd is the junction for the Toy Railway to Ffesti-
niog (p. 314) , which is here carried over the Cambrian line. —
31 M. Penrhyndeudraeth, a quarrymen's village, also a station of
the Ffestiniog line (p. 313). Harlech Castle is visible to the right,
in the distance. We now round the head of the estuary and turn
294 Route 40. HARLECH. From Carnarvon

to the S. Beyond (33 M.) Talsarnau a series of fine retrospects

(right) is obtained of Snowdonia, while the graduated hills of the
Lleyn promontory are visible beyond Cardigan Bay. The line here
runs across the Morfa Harlech, a level tract reclaimed from the sea.
36 M. Harlech (* Castle; Lion), the old capital of Merionethshire,
is a small place with only a few hundred inhabitants. Its Castle
(adm. 4<I), one of the numerous buildings of Edward L, has been
well described as 'the ideal castle of childhood —
high-perched,
foursquare, round-towered, and impressively massive'.
The well-known 'March of the Men of Harlech' commemorates the
capture of the castle by the Yorkists in 1468. It was the last stronghold
in N. Wales to hold out for Charles I. The castle commands a magni-
ficent panorama of sea and mountain; and another very fine view ofSnow-
donia may be obtained from the top of Moel-y-Senicl, l'/2 M. to the E.
Prom Moel-y-Senicl we may make our way to Cwm Bychan and the Rhi-
nogs (more conveniently reached from Llanbedr; see below).
38Y2 M. Llanbedr and Pensarn. The village of Llanbedr (Vic-
toria), situated on the Afon Artro, one of the best trout-streams in
Wales, lies about 3/4 M. to the S. of the station. The peninsula of
Mochras, l 1 /^ M. from Llanbedr, is celebrated for its rare shells,
and the neighbourhood abounds in cromlechs and other antiquities.
Llanbedr is the usual starting-point for a visit to Cwm Bychan,
the Ehinogs, and the pass of Ardudwy, an excursion comprising the finest
scenery in this part of Wales. Public conveyances ply in summer to and
from (5'/2 M.) Cwm Bychan; but the best plan is to hire a carriage to
Cwm Bychan, send it to meet us at Maes-y-Uarnedd (see below), and walk
round through the pass. This involves a drive of 12 M. and a walk
of about 2 hrs. "Cwm Bychan is a lonely and romantic hollow, con-
taining a small lake, and enclosed by the precipitous crags of the Ehinog
Fawr (2345 ft.) on the S. and the Craig Dwrg (2100 ft.) on the N. A good
echo may be awakened on the shore of the little llyn. The carriage-road
ends here, but all who are able should go on to a point about 100 yds.
beyond the lake, and then proceed to the right to the 'Roman Steps',
a rude staircase of slabs of rocks, believed to have been formed either
by the ancient Britons or the Romans. This leads to the (1 hr.) head
of the pass named Bwlch-y-Tyddiad, whence the path descends to the
N. to the village of (5 M.) Trawsfynydd (p. 303). We, however, soon
diverge from the path and cross the valley to the right, skirting the E.
side of the Rhinog Fawr, so as to reach the "Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, or
pass of the 'Gate of Ardudwy', a well-marked depression between the
Rhinog Fawr on the N. and the Rhinog Fach on the S. The scenery here
is remarkably wild and sombre. Our route now leads nearly due W.,
and about 1 hr. after leaving the Bwlch-y-Tyddiad we reach the farm
of Maes-y-Garnedd , whence we may drive back to (6V2 M.) Llanbedr.
— The Rhinog Fawr, which is most easily ascended (2 hrs.) from Pen-y-
Bont, 2 M. from Llanbedr on the road to Cwm Bychan, commands a wide
and interesting view, taking in Snowdon on the N. and Cader Idris on the S.
Beyond Llanbedr we have a view to the left of the Rhinogs,
Llethr, and Diphwys, while the rounded green Moelfre rises in the
foreground. 41 Y2 M. Dyffryn, another starting-point for a visit to
the Ardudwy pass (see above). The ascent of Moelfre from Dyffryn
takes 2 hrs. Between Dyffryn and Barmouth we pass on the left
the woods of Cors-y-Oedol and the church of Llanaber (p. 296).
45Y2 M. Barmouth. — Hotels: Coks-t-Gedol in the main street;
,

Marine, well spoken <>f, on the Esplanade, facing the sea; Barmouth (R.
 to Barmouth. BARMOUTH. 40. Route. 295
& A. 3«.), Lion, unpretending, in the main street; Tal-t-Don, a small
private hotel, near the station. —
Lodgings may also be easily procured
(dear in Aug. and Sept.).
Boats on hire for fishing, and for excursions by sea or river. The
usual charge for a boat to Penmaen Pool, at the head of the estuary, is 6j.
Barmouth, a corruption of the Welsh Ab&rmaw ('the mouth
of the Mawddach'), a thriving watering-place, is situated at the N.
entrance of the beautiful estuary of the Mawddach, on a narrow
site between the sea and a barrier of rocky hills. It is within easy
access of much of the grandest scenery in Mid-Wales, but in itself
cannot vie as a marine residence with either Llandudno or Tenby.
The sands are extensive and well adapted for bathing, but lack the
charms of the curving outline and rocky boundaries of the bays at
the places just mentioned, while another serious drawback is the
fact that the railway has been carried between the town and the sea.
The lofty railway-embankment has, however, the merit of protecting
the place from the loose sand with which it used to be inundated;
and the new Esplanade, to the N. of the station and on the seaward
side of the railway, bears ample witness to the need of some such
screen. The town is also destitute of a landward view.
About Y2 M. to the S. of the station the railway crosses the
estuary of the Mawddach by a fine ^Bridge or viaduct, V2 M. in
,

length, including a footway, 8 ft. wide (toll 2d., weekly ticket 6<Z.).
The *View up the Mawddach from this bridge, especially at high
water, is charming. The wide expanse of the estuary resembles a
large lake surrounded with wooded hills, which are backed by loftier
and more rugged mountains, while the beauty of the scene is greatly
enhanced by the delicacy and variety of the colouring.
On the left or N. side of the estuary the background is formed by
the Llawllech range, culminating in the rounded Diphwps. To the right
is the range of Cader Jdris (p. 301), the most prominent peak being the
Tyrau Mawr, to the left of which appears the true summit. In the minor
ridge in front, farther to the E., is a hill known as the 'Giant's Head",
from its resemblance to an upturned face. The most conspicuous hill
at the head of the estuary, straight in front of us, is Moel Offrwm (1200 ft.),
behind which, a little to the left, towers Rhobell-Fawr (2410 ft.). The
prospect to seaward includes the Lleyn (p. 293) and Bardsey I tie (p. 293).

Excursions from Barmouth.

'Panorama Walk. At the end of Porkington Terrace, near the bridge,
we quit the road and ascend the steep lane to the left. Where the lane
forks (6 min.) we keep to the right; 4 min. gate; 8 min. another gate
(sign-post), where the grassy track, ascending to the right, is to be avoided.
In 3 min. more (sign-post) we turn to the right, bend back a little, and
pass through a gap in the hill to the (4 min.) lodge, where we pay id,
for admission to the 'Panorama Walk ,a path skirting the brow of the
hill to the right, 200 ft. above the Mawddach estuary. The beautiful view
is a 'bird's-eye edition' of that from the bridge (see above). The sloping
summits of the Aram (p. 302) however , here form a more prominent
feature in the background to the
,

E.— We may now return to the lodge

and descend to the Dolgelley road, which we may follow along the bank
of the estuary to (2 M.) Barmouth. Or we may make our way back to
the point where we quitted the lane (at the sign-post, beyond the second
gate) and follow this lane for a few yards more. We then turn to the
296 Route. 40. YARMOUTH. From Barmouth.
left and ascend the hill,passing (5 min.) the small farm of Gwastadannes.
A short way beyond the farm the path forks; the branch to the right,
uphill, leads to Cell-Fawr and Llanaber (see below), while that on the left
descends to Barmouth.
Llanabee and Coes-t-Gedol , S'/a M. About l 3/i M. to the N. of
Barmouth, on the road to Harlech, is the interesting church of Llanaber,
an B. E. building of the 13th cent., with a fine interior (key kept at an
adjoining cottage). The solitary lancet window at the E. end is an un-
usual feature. The entrance-lodge to Cors-y-Gedol is 2 3/4 M. farther on,
opposite the church of Llanddwywe. The drive thence to Cors-y-Gedol,
formerly the seat of the ancient but now extinct family of the Vaughans,
is nearly 1 M. long. The grounds contain some fine timber, and in
the house, which is shown to visitors on previous written application to
the owner (Mr. Ed. F. Coulson), are paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt,
Hogarth ('Strolling Players rehearsing in a barn'), Reynolds, and Turner.
About Vz M. from the house (follow the cart-track to the right,
beyond the farmyard) is a cromlech called Arthur's Quoit, said to have
been hurled by that doughty monarch from the top of Moelfre (p. 294).
— This excursion to Cors-y-Gedol scarcely repays the pedestrian, but
should be made either by carriage or by train to Dyffryn (l 3/4 M. from
Cors-y-Gedol House). A pleasant round for walkers (about 7 M. in all)
may be made as follows From Barmouth to Llanaber, l3/4 M. ; from
:

Llanaber across the Llawlleeh range, passing the farm of Cell-Fawr

(see above), to the Panorama View, 3'/4 M. ; back to Barmouth, either by
the Dolgelley road or by the route above described, 2 M. This round
may be increased to about 11 M. by extending the walk to Cors-y-Gedol
and returning thence over the hills, while robust walkers may include the
ascent of Diphwys (2467 ft. ; View), which will add 2'/2-3 hrs. to the excursion.
The ascent is most often made from Penmaenpool (see below; 2 1 /2-3 hrs.).
The "Road feom Baemouth to Dolgelley, along the N. bank of the
Mawddach, forms one of the finest drives in Wales, and is preferable to
the railway. About 2 M. from Barmouth the road quits the Mawddach
for a time. 2'/2 M. Pont-ddu (Halfway House), pleasantly situated in a
little wooded glen with a waterfall. Diphwys may be ascended hence in
l'fe hr. The road to the left ascends to some abandoned gold mines.
Beyond Pont-ddu the road returns to the estuary and affords fine views
of the opposite shore. IV2 M. Bridge crossing to Penmaenpool (see above);
IV2 M. Llanelltyd. It then crosses the Mawddach, here an ordinary stream,
and soon reaches (2 M.) Dolgelley (p. 297).
As the centre from which railways branch to the N., E., and S., Bar-
mouth affords facilities for numerous longer excursions, such as those to
Llanbedr and Mochras (p. 294); Cwm Bychan and Drws Ardudwy (p. 294);
Harlech (p. 294); Towyn (p. 266); Aberdovey (p. 266); and Machynlleth
(p. 265). —
The ascent of Cader Idris (p. 297) is often made from Bar-
mouth, occupying about 7-8 hrs. (there and back), but the actual start-
ing-point is Arthog (p. 297), to which we proceed by train.
From Barmouth to Aberystwith, see p. 267.

c. From Barmouth to Dolgelley, Bala, Llangollen, and Chester.

71 M. Railway in 372-4 hrs. (fares 14s. Qd. , 10s. 2d. , 5s. lid.); to
Dolgelley, 9'/2 M., in '/i hr. (fares 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is.). The line from Bar-
mouth to Dolgelley belongs to the Cambrian Co., but the G. W. R. Co.,
whose system we join at Dolgelley, has running powers as far as Barmouth.
On leaving Barmouth the train crosses the estuary of the Maw-
ddach by the bridge mentioned at p. 296, commanding a magni-
ficent view up the river to the left, and a survey of the Lleyn
peninsula to the right. l 3 /4 M. Barmouth Junction (Rfmt. Rooms),
at the S. end of the bridge, is the point where our line leaves the
Cambrian route running S. to Aberdovey and Aberystwith (p. 267).
 to Llangollen. DOLGELLEY. 40. Route. 297

3 M. Arthog (Arthog Hall Hotel) is a small village at the foot

of the spurs of the Cader Idris ridge. The Arthog Lakes, 1 M. to the
E., are frequented by anglers (apply at the hotel). The 'Barmouth
Ascent' of Cader Idris begins here (see below) and a guide (Is.
,

per pers. ; unnecessary) generally meets the moniing-trains.

Ascent of Cader Idris fkom Arthog (Barmouth), 3 hrs. From the E.
end of Arthog village, a few hundred yards to the S. of the -station, we
follow the lane ascending to the right. Beyond the trees we pass through
a gate, and after ascending for a few min. more, turn to the left by a
path leading to a stream (not to be crossed) which we follow to the farm-
house of (25 min.) Pant-y-Llan. Beyond this the track (indistinct) crosses
two fields and reaches the old Dolgelley and Towyn road, which we follow
to the left (E.) as far as the farm of Hafod-y-Fach. Here we diverge to
the right, through a gate, and follow a rough track which soon brings
,

us out on the open mountain-side. On gaining the (20 min.) top of the
ridge, the summit of Cader Idris comes into view, and the rest of our
course is plain-sailing, as we have simply to follow the ridge.
The direct route runs to the right of Tyrem Mawr (2000 ft.), on its
S. slope, and those who do not care to make the whole ascent should
at least climb to the top of this, the prominent W. peak of the Cader
ridge (l'/« hr. from Arthog), commanding a view not inferior to that from
the highest point. We now follow the grassy ridge (fine views on both
sides) and about 1 M. farther on, near a wall, our track is joined on the
left by the bridle-path from Dolgelley (p. 300) and on the right by that
from Towyn (p. 266). We now turn to the right and soon begin the final
part of the ascent. Where two tracks are visible we should keep to the
right. After about Va hr. w e pass a good spring, a little beyond which
is the point where the ponies are left and the Tal-y-Llyn route (p. 265)
joins ours. A climb of 5 min. up a steep winding path now brings us to
the summit (2925 ft.), which is marked by a cairn and a small stone hut
(very dirty inside). The 'View is described at p. 301. — Good walkers
on their way to Dolgelley should descend by the 'Foxes' Path' (p. 300).
Descent to Tal-y-Llyn and Towyn, see p. 266.
Beyond Arthog the train skirts the Mawddach estuary, affording
line views of the mountains on the opposite side. At (7!/2 M.)
Penmaenpool (George Inn) the river is crossed by a bridge and ceases
to be navigable. The line now bears to the right, and we obtain a
view of the four peaks of Cader Idris (p. 301). As we cross the
Wnion ('Oonion') we have a peep to the left of the Oanllwyd glen
(p. 299), down which flows the Mmvddach, uniting with the Wnion
to form the estuary.

9V2 M. Dolgelley. — Hotels. *Royal Ship, R. & A. 4». Golden

;

Lion; Angel, all in the centre of town, about '/4 M. from the station and
on the other side of the river. —
Lodgings, moderate.
Brakes make the round of the Torrent and Precipice Walks (see
p. 298) during summer.
Fishing. Trout abound in the Wnion, the Aran, and several lakes in
the vicinity, permission to fish in which may be obtained at the hotels.
The salmon-fishing in the Mawddach, at Tyn-y-Groes, is preserved.
Dolgelley (pron. Dolgethly), the county-town of Merionethshire,
an irregularly-built little place with 2500 inhab., on the left bank
of the Wnion, near the N. base of Cader Idris, is the centre of some
of the finest scenery in Wales. The Church , recently restored,
contains an efflgy of a knight. Welsh woollen goods are made here.
298 Route 40. DOLGELLET. From Barmouth
Excursions from Dolgelley.
Torrent Walk, a round of 5'/2 M. The Torrent Walk itself is only
1 M. long, and visitors may drive to one end, and send the carriage round
to meet them at the other. We quit the town by the Machynlleth road,
which leads to the E., crossing the Aran. After l'/4 M. we leave the
road by a lane to the left, nearly opposite a small quarry, and soon reach
(V2 M.) a bridge, on this side of which, to the right, is the entrance to
the 'Walk'. The "Torrent Walk ascends along the side of an impetuous
little mountain stream, and offers a perfect combination of rock, and wood,
and water. The stream forms a continuous series of foaming rapids,
cataracts, and waterfalls, with most picturesquely placed boulders hemming
its course, while the narrow ravine is clothed from top to bottom with
luxuriant trees the branches of which extend from side to side of the
,

torrent. At the upper end of the glen we cross a small foot-bridge into a
road, where we turn to the right, pass the entrance-gates of Caerynwch,
and soon regain the main (Machynlleth) road. Here we turn to the right
and follow the road to (2'/2 M.) Dolgelley; or we may proceed to the left
to (1 M.) the Cross Foxes Inn, whence the old road, commanding good
views of Cader Idris, descends direct to (3 M.) Dolgelley.
Nannau and the Precipice Walk, 6-7 M. We cross the railway at
the station, follow the Bala road (to the right) for about 250 yds., and
then take the first turning to the left, a lane leading through a gate to
a house. Behind the house we turn sharp to the right, along a wall
(avoiding the path leading straight up the hill), and after a few yards
ascend to the left through trees. In about 3 min. after leaving the cottage
we emerge from the wood into the fields, and almost immediately cross
a wall by a stile. Here we keep straight on, with first a low wall, then
a hedge, and lastly a wood on our right. We then bear to the left,
crossing the field diagonally, in the direction of a plantation, which we
enter by another stile (4 min. from the last). Our path leads through
the plantation to (3 min.) the small farm of Tydden Bach, round the front
of which we pass into a lane and then turn to the right. 3 min. Gate,
beyond which the lane forks. We keep to the left for 3 min. more;
then turn to the right and follow a grassy lane to (13 min.) Maes-y-Brynar
Farm. (Driving is practicable to this point, by another route.) At the
farm we turn to the left and follow a rough cart-track (sign-post), which
leads in 9 min., trending to the right, to the S. end of Llyn Cynwch. The
hill to the right of this lake is called Moel Offrwm (1200 ft. ; view), or
the 'hill of offering'. At its foot lies Nannau, the old mansion of the
Vaughans, finely situated in a beautiful park. — To reach the Precipice
Walk, we pass through the gate at the S.W. (left) corner of Llyn Cynwch
and climb a stile to the left. A few yards farther on (about 1 hr. from
Dolgelley) we cross another stile and reach the "Precipice Walk, which
runs round the steep slopes of Moel Cynwch. At first the walk is a mere
green track along a grassy hillside, with rock cropping out, and has little
that is precipitous about it. In 5 min. we reach a stile, where we have
a fine view of Cader Idris and the estuary of the Mawddach. [Those who
make the circuit of the Precipice Walk in the opposite direction may
quit it here, and descend to Dolgelley or to Llanelltyd and Cymmer Abbey
(p. 299).] 6 min. Another stile. This is the most precipitous bit of the
walk; though nowhere sheer, the slope approaches the perpendicular so
closely and the path is so narrow that a moderately steady head is
desirable. The view of the Mawddach flowing in the narrow Ganllwyd
glen below us is very fine. We reach another stile in 7-8 min., near the
point where the path bends round the N.side of the hill.
[To reach Tyn-y-Qroes we leave the Precipice Walk at a point about
5 min. beyond this stile. Just below is a wall running almost parallel
with this section of the walk, and from this wall another descends at
right angles towards the valley. Crossing the first wall and descending
to the left of the second, we soon reach a wood, through which a steep
and faintly-marked path descends to a cart-track on the left bank of
the river. By following this to the right for 1 M. we reach the bridge
 to Llangollen. TYN-Y-GROES. 40. Route. 299
crossing to Tyn-y-Oroes Inn (see below). On our way we see the large
wheels of a copper-mine to the right. This descent is scarcely adapted
for ladies, but good walkers are adyised to vary their homeward route
by visiting Tyn-y-Groes and following the road to Llanelltyd (see below).
They should, however, first follow the Precipice Walk far enough to get
a view of Nannau.]
8 min. Stile. This is practically the end of the Precipice Walk.
Rhobell Fawr (2409 ft.) is conspicuous to the left and Nannau House
(p. 298) soon comes in sight. We then again reach Llyn Cynwch and
pass along its W. side to the (12 min.) gate by which we entered.
The above is the preferable direction in which to make the circuit
of the Precipice Walk, as the scenery improves as we proceed. The
circuit from Maes-y-Brynar takes about 1 hr.
Ttn-t-Gkoes, Rhaiade-Do, and Pistyll-y-Cain, 8 M. (there and back
16 M.). Crossing the railway, we turn to the left and follow the Bar-
mouth road for about IV2 M. Here, a little short of Llanelltyd Bridge, a
farm-road diverges on the right to (4 min.) Cymmer Abbey, a Cistercian
foundation, the ruined church of which, dating from about 1200, is worth
a visit. The key is kept at the adjoining farm, which incorporates the
old 'Abbot's Hall'. (Route hence to Precipice Walk, see p. 298.) Returning
to the road and crossing the bridge over the Mawddach we now reach
O/4 M.) Llanelltyd, where we turn to the right and follow the road
ascending the *Glen of Ganllwyd. To the right, beyond the Mawddach,
rises Moel Cynwch (p. 298), with the Precipice Walk. After 2 M. the road
bends to the left, and the valley contracts and increases in picturesqueness.
/4 M. (4>/2 M. from Dolgelley) Tyn-y-Groes Inn (Oakley Arms, plain),
3

a favourite little anglers' resort.We may vary our route in returning to

Dolgelley from this point by crossing the bridge in front of the inn and
proceeding to the right to the ( 8/4 hr.) Precipice Walk (comp. above).
Beyond Tyn-y-Groes we pass the wooded grounds of Dolmelynllyn on
the left, and reach a (V2 M.) bridge over the Camlan. To reach the fall of
O/3 M.) *Rhaiadr-Du (a pleasant digression of V3-V2 ^-) we cross the bridge
and ascend to the left along the stream, at first by a cart-track and then by
a path. The fall is not large, but its surroundings are picturesque.
About 1 /i M. beyond the bridge the road forks, and we keep to the
right, crossing another bridge over the Eden. We then pass through a
gate (or over a stile) and enter the wooded glen of the upper Mawddach,
which runs to our right, half hidden among the trees. About 12 min.
after leaving the gate we see to our right a small foot-bridge, leading to
a cottage on the other side of the stream. We, however, keep to the
road on this side and in ' '4 hr. more pass two new houses and reach the
entrance to the Gunpowder Worts, beyond which the ground is private,
though visitors are admitted between sunrise and sunset. Driving is
practicable to this point, and carriages may be left here while we go on
to visit the Falls. No smoking is allowed on the premises, and matches
and cigar-lights must be left at the entrance. A new path to the Falls
has been made. The fall of Pistyll-y-Cain is on the Afon Cain, just above
its junction with the Mawddach, a few yards from the new bridge (to the
left); and the Rhaiadr Mawddach is reached by keeping straight on for
2 min. more. The ' Pistyll-y-Cain, plunging from a height of 150 ft. into
a deep rocky cauldron, is one of the most graceful waterfalls in Wales.
The Rhaiadr Mawddach is wider, but neither so high nor so picturesque.
We may now return to Dolgelley, either by the route already tra-
versed, or by crossing the Mawddach by the bridge a little above the fall
and descending on its E. bank. If we select the latter route we turn to
the left after about V« nr -i and wind round the hillside to the 0/2 hr.)
valley of the Afon-yr-Allt, a feeder of the Mawddach, along which we
may descend to the right, passing an old copper-mine, to the 0/2 hr.)
track on the left bank of the Mawddach mentioned above. Thence we
either cross the bridge to Tyn-y-Groes (see above), or return to Dolgelley
by the Precipice Walk (comp. p. 298).
The Torrent Walk , the Precipice Walk , and the Tyn-y-Groes and
Pistyll-y-Cain excursion may all be included in one long day, somewhat
300 Route 40. CADER IDRIS. From Barmouth
as follows. Drive to one end of Torrent Walk 0A hr.) ; walk through it
(i/ nr.) ; drive from the other end to Maes-y-Brynar or Nannau 3
2 ( /« hr.) ; make
the circuit of the Precipice Walk (1 hr.); drive from Maes-y-Brynar to
the Gunpowder Works near Pistyll-y-Cain (3 hrs.); visit the three Falls
(1 hr.); drive hack to Dolgelley (2 hrs.). This makes 8'/2 hrs., without
including stoppages. Good walkers could do the entire round in the same
time, descending directly from the Precipice Walk to Tyn-y-Groes (p. 299).
The total distance would he 21 M., equivalent to 25-30 M. on a level road.
Ascent of Cader Idkis. After that of Snowdon this is the most
popular ascent in Wales, and the view from the top is considered hy
many to surpass that from the higher mountain. From Dolgelley there
are three recognized routes to the top (2>/4-4 hrs.), hut the third of those
described below should be reserved for the descent, as the climb up the
steep 'scree' known as the 'Foxes' Path' is very fatiguing. Mountaineers,
however, who do not object to a scramble and who wish to make the
descent to Barmouth, Towyn, or Tal-y-Llyn, may prefer the Foxes'
Path as the shortest and in many ways the most interesting of the three
routes. Guides (6s.) may be dispensed with in good weather by those
who have had any experience in mountain-climbing. Ascent from Arthog,
see p. 297 ; from Tal-y-Llyn, see p. 265.
1. By the Bridle Path (2V2-3 hrs. ; pony 6-7s.). Weleave Dolgelley
by the road leading S.W. from the church, and where it branches, just
outside the village, at a letter-box, we keep up hill to the left. This is
the old road to Towyn (p. 266), which ascends steadily for about D/2 M.
and then becomes more level. '/« M. (2 M. from Dolgelley) Llyn Owernan,
a small lake on the right, with a cottage (formerly an inn) at its farther
end, opposite which the Foxes' Path route begins. We, however, follow
the road for V2 M. more, cross a small bridge, and turn to the left, just
on this side of a second bridge. The bridle-path crosses a stream, and
ascends through a plantation, keeping the direction of the depression
between the saddle of Cader and Tyrau Mawr (p. 297). In about 40 min.
after leaving the road , the path reaches the top of the ridge and joins
the route from Arthog at two stone posts. Thence, see p. 297.
2. Along the Ridge via Mynydd Moel (Aran route; 372-4hrs.). As there
is no regular path, this ascent should not he attempted in bad weather
without a guide. Leaving the town hy the Dinas Mawddwy road (S.E.)
we cross the bridge over the Aran and turn down a lane to the right.
After J/2 M., opposite Pandy Mill, we bend to the left, and a little farther
on turn sharply to the right, through a gate. About 3/4 M- beyond Pandy
Mill the lane quits the Aran (which here turns to the right), passes some
farm-steadings, and reaches the open side of a spur of Mynydd Moel, the
easternmost summit of the Cader ridge. The direct route to the top of
Mynydd Moel leads to the right, hut it is better to keep somewhat to the
left, in order to avoid the marshy hollow of the Aran, and to strike the
ridge a little more to the E. To the right lies the little Llyn Aran, in
which the stream takes its rise, The top of Mynydd Moel (2835 ft. ; cairn)
commands a very fine and extensive view, including Dolgelley, which is
not visible from the Pen-y-Gader. The easy walk along the ridge from
Mynydd Moel to the summit of Cader takes 15-20 minutes. Llyn-y-Gader
and Llyn-y-Gafr (p. 301) soon come into view on the right. Good walkers
may continue their walk along the ridge to Tyrau Mawr and (2 hrs.)
Arthog (comp. p. 297), returning to Dolgelley by an evening-train.
3. By the Foxes' Path (2V4-2 3/4hrs.). From Dolgelley to(2V 4 M.)the cottage
at the S.W. end of Llyn Gwernan, see above. Here we leave the road hy
a wicket on the left, and follow a path over a grassy hill, with a little
coppice. In 6-7 min. we cross a wall hy a stile, and soon reach a point
from which we have a fine view of the whole range of Cader; the steep
stony slope to the left of the summit is the 'Foxes' Path'. We then
descend to (3-4 min.) a gate, ascend along a wall, on the other side of
which is a small wood, and soon reach the open hillside. After 5 min. we
turn to the right through a gate at a sheepfold and go straight on, soon
with a wall to our right. 5 min. Brook with a low wall and a small
ladder, just beyond which we pass a soft piece of ground. 8 min. Gate
 ;

to Llangollen. CADER IDBIS. 40. Route. 301

in a wall; 2min. Stream crossed by stepping-stones; 3 min. Llyn-y-Gqfr,
a small lake, well stocked with trout. Beyond this point the path ceases,
but the route can scarcely he missed. Crossing the stream issuing from
Llyn-y-Gafr, we have a sharp climb of about >/< h*. to surmount the
rock-strewn ridge intervening between Llyn-y-Gafr and Llyn-y-Gader, a
somewhat larger lake finely situated below the wall of rock rising
perpendicularly to the summit of the mountain. At the S. end of Llyn-y-
Gader begins the steep slope of loose shingle, called the i Foxet' Palh\
which is about 900 ft. in height and inclined at an angle of 35°. Its
ascent is extremely fatiguing, but there is no danger, though the hind-
most members of a party should beware of falling stones. The usual time
required to ascend this scree is '/a -8/* h r At the top of the slope we turn
-

to the right and pass over smooth turf to (5 min.) the cairn and the hut
on the extreme summit.
[In descending, the 'Foxes' Path' (the top of which is indicated by a
small cairn) is easy, as the loose shingle yields to our weight and carries
us down with little exertion. We can scarcely go wrong after passing
Llyn-y-Gafr, where the faintly-defined path begins and follows the general
direction of the stream issuing from the Llyn. A little below the lake we
cross the brook by the stepping-stones. At the gap in the wall, we keep
to the right, on this side of the wall. Llyn Gwernan now soon comes into
sight and determines our course.]
*Cader Idris (2925 ft.),or the chair of the giant Idris, is one of the
most beautifully shaped mountains in England, presenting a long row of
wall-like precipices towards the estuary of the Mawddach on the N., while
on the three other sides it sends off spurs towards the Arans, Plinlimmon,
and Cardigan Bay. The total length of the Cader ridge from E. to W.
is about 7 M. ; above the general level of the ridge rise the four main
summits (named from E. to W.) of Mynydd Moel, Pen-y-Gader (the top),
Cyfrwy, or the 'Saddle', and Tyrat, Mater. The 'View from the cairn on
the summit is very extensive. On the N. is the beautiful estuary of the
Mawddach, backed by the Llawllech range of hills, culminating in Diphwys
(to the right), while beyond these again rise the Carnarvon Mts., visible
in their entire extent from Bardsey Isle, at the end of the Lleyn pro-
montory, on the left (S.W.), to Carnedd Llewelyn on the right (N.E.).
The peak of Snowdon, rising above the Bhinog Fach, is easily distinguish-
able, and the other summits may be identified from the map (Moel Hebog
and the Rivals to the left of Snowdon; Moel Siabod, the Glyders, etc., to
the right). To the right, more in the foreground, is the rounded outline
of Rhobell Fawr, to the left of which we have a view of the Ganllwyd glen
and the Precipice Walk. The dark little tarn almost vertically below the
summit on this side is the Llyn-y-Gader (see above). To the N.E. we have
a fine view of the valley of the Wnion, extending to Bala Lake; Dol-
gelley, however, is hidden. The peaks to the left of Bala are the
Arenigs, those to the right the Arans, while Moel Fammau, with its
tower, rises in the extreme distance beyond the lake. More to the right
are the Berwyns, and almost due E. are the three peaks of the Breidden
Hills, near Shrewsbury. In exceptionally clear weather even the Wrekin
(p. 261) is said to be visible in this direction. To the S. is the somewhat
featureless expanse of rounded green hills, of which Plinlimmon is the
highest point, while the Carmarthen Van may sometimes be descried in
the extreme distance. To the W. we have Cardigan Bay and the coast
as far S. as St. David's Head. Tal-y-Llyn is not visible, but we enjoy
(S.W.) a pretty peep down the green valley of the fiysynni, with the
Bird Bock. From the S. side of the summit-plateau, a short way from
the cairn, we obtain a striking view of the "Llyn-y-Cat, an ideal mountain
tarn, situated in a wild rocky hollow at the foot of almost vertical crags.
Those who do not wish to return to Dolgelley may descend either to Arthog
(2 hrs., to Barmouth 3 hrs. ; comp. p. 297), or to Tal-y-Llyn (IV2-2V2 hrs.
p. 265), or to Towyn (2V2-3 hrs. to Abergynolwyn, see p. 266).
Excursions may also be made from Dolgelley to Towyn (p. 266), by
the coast-road 20 M., by the mountain-road 17 M. ; to Tal-y-Llyn (p. 265),
new road 9 l k M., old road 8V2 M. ; to Dinat Mawddwy (p. 265), lO'/a %.,
 ;;

302 Route 40. THE ARANS. From Barmouth

old road 9 M. ; to Machynlleth (p. 265), old road WkM., new road 16 M..
Visitors bound for Machynlleth may include Dinas Mawddwy or Tal-y-Llyn
from the former a railway runs to Machynlleth down the pretty valley
of the Dovey, while a visit to the Llyn requires but a short digression
from the Machynlleth road. At the highest point (860 ft.) of the road to
Tal-y-Llyn lies the little Llyn Trigraienyn, or 'Lake of the Three Pebbles',
named from three huge boulders, which Idris is said to have shaken out
of his shoe. — From Dolgelley to (10 M.) Barmouth by road, see p. 296.
Continuation op Railway Journey. Beyond Dolgelley the
train passes the mansion of Dolserau, near which is the Torrent
Walk (p. 298). 12i/2 M. Bont Newydd, the nearest station for the
ascents of Moel Offrwm (p. 298) and Rhobell Fawr (2409 ft.
2Y4 hrs., via Llanfachreth). On leaving Bont Newydd we enjoy a
fine retrospect (right) of the complete outline of Cader Idris. The
line ascends the charming valley of the Wnion, and the Arans (see
below) soon come into sight on the right. —
16 M. Drws-y-Nant.
Drws-y-Nant isthe starting-point for the shortest ascent (lV4-l'/2 hr.)
of Aran Mawddwy (2972 ft.), the highest mountain in Mid-Wales. The
twin -summit of Aran Benllyn (2902 ft.) is 70 ft. lower. Though 47 ft.
higher than Cader Idris, Aran Mawddwy is not such an imposing mountain,
nor is the view from the top so fine. Bala Lake (p. 303) is conspicuous.
— The descent may be made via P/2 hr.) Aran Benllyn to (1 hr.) Llanuwchllyn
(see below), or on the S. side to (2 hrs.) Dinas Mawddwy (p. 265).

About 3 M. beyond Drws-y-Nant we reach the highest point of

the line (760 ft.) and enter the bleak valley of the Dwfrdwy. —
22'/ 2 M. Llanuwchllyn (*Goat Inn, plain), another good starting-
point for the ascent of the Arans (2 hrs.; see above). Good walkers
may also start here for the ascent of Arenig Fawr (2800 ft. 4 hrs.),
;

descending to (1 hr.) Arenig station (p. 303). A

fine walk leads
over Bwlch-y-Groes ('Pass of the Cross' ; 1950 ft.), and through the
wooded valley of the Dovey to (12^2 M.) Dinas Mawddwy (p. 265).
Llanuwchllyn is only 1 M. from the S. end of Bala Lake (600 ft.),
the E. side of which the train skirts. To the left, beyond the lake,
we see the Arenigs and the small church of Llanycil, To the
right rise the Berwyns (p. 303). —
27 M. Bala Junction, at the
N. end of the lake, is the station for a branch-line to (8/4 M.) Bala
and Ffestiniog (see p. 303). Between Bala Junction and the town
a fine view is obtained^to the left.
Bala (* White Lion, 'pens', in summer 3Z. 3s. per week; Plas
Goch; Bull's Head), a small town with 1500 inhab., lies near the
N. end of Bala Lake, or Llyn Tegid the largest sheet of water in
,

Wales (31/2 M. long and 1/2 M broad). The town itself is of little
-

interest, it may be made 'the starting-point of several pleasant

but
excursions. The most prominent building is the Calvinistic Me-
thodist College. The statue in front of the Methodist Chapel is
that of the Rev. Thomas Charles (d. 1814) the originator of the
,

British and Foreign Bible Society who is buried in the church-

,

yard of Llanycil (see above), the parish- church of Bala. The

mound named the Tomen-y-Bala commands a good view of Bala Lake
and the valley of the river Dee which here issues from the lake.
,
 ,

to Llangollen. BALA. 40. Route. 303

The lake affords good perch and pike fishing, and trout -streams
abound in the neighbourhood.
Excursions from Bala. Though the scenery of Bala Lake is not
imposing, it pleasant to walk or drive round it (11 M.). The walker
is
may cut off 4 M. by taking the railway between Bala and Llanuwchllyn
(p. 302). The two chief hotels keep boats for excursions on the lake. —
Bala is one of the recognised starting-points for a visit to Pistyll Rhaiadr
(p. 264), the highest waterfall in Wales. Wetake the train to (7 M.)
Llandrillo (see below), and walk thence across the Berwyn Hills (c. 2500 ft.)
to (7'/2 "0 the waterfall. Whether the traveller returns to Bala or goes
on to Oswestry (see p. 264), this excursion requires a whole day. —
The new Liverpool Reservoir ('Lake Fyrnwy'), in the Valley of Llanwddyn,
10 M. to the S. of Bala, is interesting, especially to engineers. When
completed it will be 5 M. long and 15 M. in circumference, i. e. larger
than Bala Lake. The direct route (a fair mountain-road) ascends the
Birnant Valley, passes Moel-y-Gei/r (2055 ft.), to the right, at (7 M.) the
head of the pass, and then descends to (3 M.) Rhiaargor, at the N. end
of the reservoir. About 3 M. farther on is the village of Llanwdden (Inn)
the site of which will be submerged, and 2 M. beyond it is the large
embankment forming the S. end of the reservoir. Active pedestrians
may combine this excursion with the last by sleeping at Llanrhaiadr
(p. 264), 10 M. from Llanwdden (12 M. by high-road) and 4 M. from
Pistyll Rhaiadr. —
The ascent of the Arans and the walk by the Bwlch-y-
Oroes to Dinas Mawddwy are brought within easy reach of Bala by the
railway to Llanuwchllyn (see p. 302). —
The Arenigs, see below.
From Bala Junction ToBLAENAuFFESTiNioG,25V2M.,railway(G.W.R.)
in 1 hr. 10 min. (fares 5s. 6d., 3s. 8d., 2s. Id). As we leave the junction
we see Bala Lake to the left. »/4 M. Bala Town (p. 302). The line
now runs through the valley of the Tryweryn, and the Arenigs soon
come into view on the left. Beyond (3'/4 M.) Frongoch the bare slopes of
Mynydd Nodal rise on the left. —
8'/4 M. Arenig (Rhyd-y-Fen Inn, at the
foot of Arenig Fach, M. from the station), a small station situated
'/2
between the two Arenigs. The ascent of Arenig Fater (2800 ft.), to the S.
of the station, takes I-IV2 hr. Extensive "View from the top, including
Snowdon, Cader Idris, the Arans, and the sea. At the N.W. base of the
mountain, 3/4 M. from the station, lies the little Llyn Arenig. The descent
may be made to Llanuwchllyn (comp. p. 302). The ascent of the Arenig
Fach (2264 ft.) may be made from the inn in 8/4 hr. —
At Llyn Tryweryn
the line reaches its highest point (1190 ft.) and begins the descent through
the barren Gwm Proesor. The Rhinogs (p. 294), and soon afterwards
Cader Idris (p. 301), are seen to the left. — From (17 M.) Trawsfynydd
walkers may reach (14 M.) Llanbedr via the Bwlch Tyddiad and the
Roman Steps (comp. p. 294). —
The line here turns to the N. On the
right is Tomen-y-Mur (p. 312); in front Geft) the Moelwyns. —
20 M.
Maentwrog Road, 2 M. from Maentwrog (p. 313). The train now sweeps
round the valley of the Cynfael, commanding a fine view of the Ffestiniog
mountains. 22 M. Ffestiniog Village (p. 311). — 25'/2 M. Blaenau Ffestiniog
(p. 311).

Beyond Bala the train passes through a short tunnel and de-
scends the well-wooded valley of the Dee. On the right we pass the
large mansion of Pale (occupied by the Queen in 1889), just before
reaching (31 M.) Llandderfel, the church of which, also to the
right, contains two curious wooden relics known as St. Derfel's
horse (stag?) and crozier. —
34 M. Llandrillo (Dudley Arms, J /2 M.
from the station) is the starting-point for the walk to (3 hrs.) Pistyll
Rhaiadr (see above). Cader Fronwen (2573 ft. view), the nearest
;

of the Berwyns, may be ascended in H/2 hr.

38 M. Corwen (Owen Glyndwr, 1 /i M. to the E. of the station;
304 Route 40. LLANGOLLEN. From Barmouth

Kail. Refreshment Rooms), a small town with 2500 inhab., is a good

centre for anglers (fishing in the Dee, Alwen, etc.). The church
contains a curious monument to Iorwerth Sulien, one of its early
vicars and outside is the shaft of a cross ascribed to the 8th cen-
;

tury. The rude cross on the lintel of the S. door is said to he

the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger. It was at Corwen that this
famous patriot assembled his forces before the battle of Shrewsbury
and most of the land round the town belonged to him. Railway —
(L.N.W.) from Corwen to Rhyl, see p. 280.
Beyond (41 M.) Carrog we pass Owen Olendower's Mound on
the left, while on the other side are the slopes of the Berwyns
(Moel Ferna, 2070 ft.). —
43 M. Glyndyfrdwy (Inn), a small fishing
station from which Owen Glendower took his name. The river
,

makes a long curve to the left, which the railway avoids by a tunnel
V2 M. long. On emerging from the tunnel we have a charming
glimpse, to the left, of the wooded valley, with Moel-y-Oamelin
(1897 ft.) and Moel Morfydd (1804 ft.) in the background, while in
front are the romantic church of Llantysilio and Bryntisilio, the
summer-home of Sir Theodore and Lady Martin (Helen Faucit).
471/2 M. Berwyn (Chain Bridge Hotel p. 305). ;

49 M. Llangollen. — Hotels. "Hand Hotel, an old and com-

fortable house, close to the Dee, R. & A. 3s. 9d., D. is. (harper in the
hall); Royal Hotel, well spoken Gkapes.
of, similar charges. —
Fishing. Information may he Evans, chemist.
obtained of Mr.
Llangollen (pron. Thlangothlen) , or the 'church of St. Collen',
a neat little town with 3000 inhab., is delightfully situated on the
river Dee in a hollow surrounded with hills.
, Its Welsh flannel
and beer have a reputation. The town is a favourite resort of
anglers who find good sport in the Dee and its tributaries. The
,

fishermen of the Dee still use the 'coracle', or ancient British boat,
made of skins (now-a-days tarpaulin) stretched over a slight frame-
work of wood. The Church, a low Gothic building, near the centre
of the town, contains a good oaken ceiling. In the churchyard is
a monument to the Ladies of Llangollen and Mary Carryl (see
p. 305). The Bridge over the Dee. a plain structure with four
pointed arches, is reckoned for some inscrutable reason among the
'Seven "Wonders of Wales'.
The ruins of Dinas Bran, or Crow Castle 0/2 hr. ; donkey Is.) sur-
mount the boldly-formed hill (910 ft.) on the N. side of the *Vale of
Llangollen. We cross the bridge over the Dee, proceed a few paces to
the right, and then ascend to the left to a bridge over the Ellesmere Canal.
On the other side we find ourselves opposite a sign-post, pointing on the
right to the Trevor Rocks, on the left to the Eglwyseg Rocks, and straight
on to Dinas Bran. The path to the latter ascends through a few fields,
crossing two cart-tracks, and reaches the open hillside at a gate just above
a house where refreshments are sold. The ruins at the top are of very
early origin, but are not so picturesque as they appear from below. The
-View includes the finely shaped Eglwyseg Rocks on the N., the valley
of the Dee on the E., Llangollen to the S., Moel-y-Geraint and the Ber-
wyns to the S.W., and Moel-y-Gamelin to the N.W.
The view from " Moel-y-Geraint (1000 ft. ; '/« hr.), or the Barber's Hill,
 to Chester. VALLE CRUCIS. 40. Route. 305
on the other side of the river, is similar to that from Dinas Bran, but
more extensive. The ascent begins by a steep lane near the Grapes Hotel.
From the top we may descend to Berwyn (p. 309) and include a visit to
Valle Crucis Abbey (see below) in our round.
Plas Newydd (i.e. 'New Place'), the residence of the celebrated 'La-
dies of Llangollen', is situated about V3 M. to the 8. of the bridge. To
reach it we turn to the left at the end of Castle Street and then ascend
to the right of the Grapes Hotel. Where the road forks we keep to the
left, and almost immediately reach a path with a railing on the left,
which leads to the house. Admission fid. — The 'Ladies of Llangollen'
were two Irish damsels, Lady Eleanor Butler and the Hon. Sarah Pon-
sonby, who swore 'eternal friendship', devoted themselves to a life of
celibacy, and secretly left their homes together in 1776. At first they
settled at Denbigh, but afterwards removed to Llangollen, where they
lived together for half-a-century. Their romantic story, and the half-
masculine dress they affected, made them widely known, and they re-
ceived visits from many eminent personages. Lady Eleanor Butler, who
was 17 years older than her companion, died in 1829 at the age of 90, and
Miss Ponsonby died two years later. Their faithful servant, Mary Carryl
(see p. 304), who had bought for them with her savings the freehold
of Plas Newydd , died in 1809. — The house now belongs to General
Yorke, who has built an additional wing, which he occupies in summer.
Both inside and out it is decorated with good carvings in oak; and it
contains a few relics of the 'Ladies', curiosities, paintings, and the like.
We may now either return to Llangollen direct, or extend our walk
round Pen-y-Coed, the hill to the S.E. of Plas Newydd. In the latter case
we pass O/2 M.) to the right of Pengwern Hall, now a farm-house, but
originally (10th cent.) the residence of Tudor Trevor, the ancestor of the
Mostyn family.
One of the pleasantest walks in the neighbourhood of Llangollen is
the round of 5-0 M. to Berwyn (l 3 /4 M.; also reached by rail), the Chain
Bridge., Llanlytilio Church, and Valle Crucii Abbey. Good walkers may
add the ascent of Moel-y-Gamelin. — Walkers cross the bridge and then
follow (to the left) the well-shaded towing-path of the above-mentioned
Canal (p. 30i). After about 1 M. the canal turns to the left, while the
shortest route to P/2 M.) Valle Crucis (see below) leads across the bridge
to the right. Continuing to follow the canal we soon reach ( 3/4 M.) the
Chain Bridge (Inn), opposite Berwyn station, perhaps the most charming
spot on the Dee. A little beyond the inn we pass a weir, where the canal
issues from the Dee, and reach the romantically-situated little church of
Llantysilio (service in English at 3.30 p.m.).
Behind Berwyn and Llantysilio rises the hill called Braich-y-Qwynt,
and we may proceed from the latter to Valle Crucis (about 1 M.) round
either side of this hill or over its top. If we keep to the N. side of the
hill we turn to the right on reaching the high-road to Ruthin on the
other side; if we choose the S. side we turn to the left. The abbey
lies a little to the E. of the road (bell at the entrance; charge fid.).
"Valle Crucis Abbey, founded in the year 1200 by Madog ap Gruf-
fydd Maelor of Dinas Bran, and dissolved in 1535, is the most important
monastic ruin in N. Wales. It was a Cistercian establishment, dedicated
to the Virgin Mary. The chief part of the ruin is the Church, in theE.E.
style, which is 165 ft. long (transepts 98 ft.) and 67>/2 ft. wide. The W. front
(probably completed about 1250), with its three Dec. windows over the
doorway and a rose-window above, is in good preservation. The E. end,
which contains three lancet windows, seems to be the oldest part of the
edifice. On the S. side the church is adjoined by some remains of the
conventual buildings, including the chapter-house, with the dormitories
above it. The juxtaposition of three different styles of doorway here
(Norman, E. E., and Flamboyant) should be noticed.
We now return to the road and follow it (to the right) for about
'A M. to the second milestone from Llangollen. Opposite this, in a field
to the right, stands Eliseg's Pillar, erected by Concenn in the 8th or
9th cent, in memory of his great-grandfather Eliseg, Prince of Powys,
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit, 20
306 Route 40. CHIRK.

The present inscription dates from the renovation of the monument in

1779. The name of the valley is usually attributed to this 'cross', though
some authorities explain it by the shape of the valley itself.
The ascent of Moel-y-G-amelin (1897 ft. l'/2 hr.) may be made either
;

direct from Llantysilio or from the Oernant slate-quarries on the Ruthin

road, about 2 M. beyond Eliseg's Pillar. The view is extensive, including
Snowdon, the Arans, the vale of Clwyd, and the valley of the Dee.
Excursion to the Eglwyseg Rocks. We cross the railway and canal,
and at the sign-post mentioned at p. 304 either turn to the left and proceed
round the N. side of the Dinas Bran or take the lane to the right,
,

which leads round the other side of the same hill. In either case we
reach the nearest point of the rocks not far from Tan-y-Caste.il Farm,
2 M. from Llangollen. The ''Eglwyseg Rocks, the name of which (pron.
Eglooiseg) is probably connected with Eliseg (see p. 305), are a line of
bold limestone cliffs, beginning near Dinas Bran and sweeping round in
a semicircle for a distance of about 4M. They form the W. escarpment
of a dreary upland plateau stretching towards the E. The breezy walk
along their summit to the World's EncT (to which there is also a carriage-
'

road), 5 M. from Llangollen, is very delightful in fine weather.

Chirk Castle. This excursion may be made either by railway to
(11 M.) Chirk (changing carriages at Ruabon, p. 307; i/t hr.), or by
carriage (London and Holyhead road; 9 M.), or on foot (direct 4 M.,
via Pennant 6 M.) The direct walking-route, which is also practicable
for riders, leads over the E. end of Glyn Bill. We follow the road to
the left of the Grapes Hotel, cross the bridge, and where the road forks
O/4 M.) keep uphill to the right. In 4-5 min. the road again forks, and
we again keep to the right. We now skirt the wooded hill of Pen-y-Coed
and pass (8 min.) the picturesque modern house of Tyndwr. At the
(5 min.) cross-roads we keep straight on and ascend steeply, passing
through a gate and avoiding two green tracks to the left (the second op-
posite a gate). After 8 min. our track bends to the left, while another
leads to the right through a gate. In 1/4 hr. we pass two large beeches
and in 7 min. more join the road at the top of the hill. During the
whole ascent we enjoy fine views over the valley of the Dee. At the
(3 min.) cross-roads we keep straight on. We now descend, passing
(7 min.) a cottage and soon reaching (5 min.) a farm where Chirk Castle
is in full view. Our road keeps to the left, and in 7 min. reaches the
park-gate and lodge, whence a drive of about V2 M. leads to the castle,
passing a small lake on the left. Offa"s Dyke (p. 264) crosses the park,
but the swelling is scarcely distinguishable. At the castle we ring the
bell at a postern on the right, at the top of a few steps (open on Mon.
and Thurs., 11-1 and 2-5; adru. for 1-5 pers. 2s. 6d., each addit. pers. 6<Z.).
'Chirk Castle, a rectangular structure with massive round towers at the
angles, enclosing a large quadrangle, was erected by Roger Mortimer
in the reign of Edward I. (1272-1307), on the site of an ancient fortress;
but many of the details are of Elizabethan or later date. During the
Civil Warit was seized by the Royalists and besieged in vain by its
owner, Sir Thomas Myddelton, at that time one of the Parliamentary
leaders. The interior contains oak-carvings , family-portraits , and an
ebony 'Cabinet presented to Sir Thomas Myddelton by Charles II., the in-
terior of which is adorned with silver plaques and a series of exquisitely
coloured paintings on copper, ascribed to Rubens. The ramparts command
a fine "View of the beautiful Park and the surrounding country. —
The
village of Chirk lies about l'/2 M., and the station l'/4 M. to the E. of
the castle (see p. 268).
Good walkers may combine the excursion to Chirk with a visit
to Wynnstay, the seat of Sir Watkin Wynn, 6 M. to the E. of Llangollen,
near Ruabon. The house is not shown, but visitors are admitted, on ap-
plication to the large Park
, which contains some good timber and
,

numerous deer. The three towers in the park afford extensive views.
A pleasant walk may be taken from Llangollen along the Dee to (10 M.)
Corwen. The high-road' on the S. bank commands the most open views,
but the road on the N. bank is shadier and more picturesque.
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 LLANRWST. 40. Route: 307
Another pleasant walk may be taken to (3 M.) Olyn Ceiriog (New Inn
Hotel), whence a tramway for slate and passengers runs to (6 M.) Chirk.
Continuation op Railway Journey. As -we leave Llangollen
the castle of Dinas Bran (p. 304) and the Eglwyseg Rocks (p. 306)
are conspicuous to the left. Near (51 Y2 M.) Trevor we have a view
to the right of the Dee Viaduct of the Shrewsbury and Chester railway
and of the imposing aqueduct of Pont-y- Cysylltau, constructed by
Telford for the Ellesmere canal. 521/2 M. Aerefair ('Akryvire'),
with large iron- works. To the right is Wynnstay Park (p. 306).
54 M. Ruabon (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), the junction of the
Barmouth and Dolgelley branch with the main G. W. R. line from
Chester to Shrewsbury (p. 262). Carriages often changed here.
From Ruabon to (71 M.) Chester or (89 M.) Shrewsbury, see R. 39 a.

d. From Llandudno to Bettws-y-Coed and Ffestiniog.

3OV2 M. Railway (L. N. W. R.) to (18 M.) Bellas-p-Coed in »/4 -l hr.
(fares as. 6d„ 2s. 8d., It. 11<*.): from Bettws to (12y2 M.) Blaenau Ffestiniog
—
in '/2- 3 /4 hr. (fares 2s. 6d., is. 10d., Is. l/td.). In summer a small Steamer
plies from Deganwy (p. 284) to Trefriw (see below) in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares 1j. 6<i.,
is.), but the scenery up to this point is fairly well seen from the railway. —
Pedestrians will find the walk along either side of the river (16-17 M.)
repay them; the road on the W. side affords the best views.
From Llandudno to (3 M.) Llandudno Junction, see p. 281.
Carriages are generally changed here. The line follows the winding
course of the Conway, through the pretty valley of which it runs
all the way to Bettws. Beyond (4*/2 M.) Glan Conway we have a
view of the Carnarvon Mts. to the right, including Carnedd Llewelyn,
Foel Fras, and the rounded Moel Eilio (in front). From (83/4 M.)
Tal-y-Cafn, walkers may pay a visit to the British earthworks at
Pen-y-Oaer and the waterfalls of Dolgarrog (see Map), crossing the
river by the ferry (Id.) and rejoining the railway at Llanrwst (in
all,
3Y2-4 hrs.) The ascent of Carnedd Llewelyn (p. 288) from Tal-
y-Cafn takes about 4 hrs. —
About 1 M. beyond Tal-y-Cafn the
small church of Caerhun, on the site of the Roman Conovium, is
seen on the other side of the river; and, farther on, Pen-y-Oaer
and the falls of Porthlwyd and Dolgarrog are also visible. The small
village of Trefriw ('Trevrioo'; Belle vue Hotel), where the steamer
stops , also lies on the right bank, about 1 M. from Llanrwst. Its
chalybeate springs the water of which may be seen coming down
,

from the heights, are about ltyj M. to the N. In summer an omn-

ibus for Trefriw meets the trains at Llanrwst.
14 M. Llanrwst ( Victoria, on the river Eagles fy Owydir Arms),
;

a small town with 2500 inhab., is picturesquely situated, */2 M. from

the station, on the right bank of the Conway, which is here crossed
by a bridge ascribed to the "Welsh architect Inigo Jones. The church
contains the burial-ohapel of the Gwydir family, a finely carved
rood-loft, and the stone coffin of Llewelyn ap Jorwerth.
About '/a M. from Llanrwst, on the other side of the Conway, is
Owydir Castle, long the seat of the Wynnes, but now the property of Ba-
20*
 ;

308 Route 40. BETTWS-Y-COED. From Llandudno

ron Willoughby de Eresby; the modern mansion contains some inter.

esting tapestryand beautiful oak-carvings (visitors admitted).
The environs of Llanrwst are very picturesque; and pleasant walks
may he taken to (2 M.) the old church of Llanrhychwyn ('Thlanry-
chooin'), to Trefriw and (4 M.) Llyn Crafnant (thence to Capel Curig
3 M.), and to Bettws-y-Coed via Llyn-y-Parc (6 M.; comp. Map).
The scenery between Llanrwst and Bettws is the best on the
line. To the right the Falcon Bock rises above the Gwydir woods.
The train crosses the Conway and then the Llugwy, affording a
glimpse to the right of the Llugwy valley, with Moel Siabod in the
background.
18 M. BettWS-y-Coed. —
Hotels. Royal Oak, near the station (sign
by David Cox, now kept indoors), R. & A. is. Gd., D. 4s. Gd.; "Waterloo,
/3 M. to the S.; Gwtdir Aems; Glan Abek; Swan, Temperance, plain.
]

Lodgings.
Coaches run in summer to Capel Curig (5'/2 M. ; fare 2s.), Llanbevis
(16 M. ; 4s., return 6s), Bangor (QffiU M. ; fare 6s.), Beddgelert (.lVfc M. ; 5s.,
return 8s.) , and Port Madoc (25'/2 M. ; 7s. 6d.). Brakes also run to the
Swallow Falls, Fairy Glen, and other points.
Fishing. There is good fishing within easy reach of Bettws in the
Conway, Lledr, Llugwy, etc. (particulars at the hotels).
Bettws-y-Coed (pron. Bettoosycoed), or the Chapel in the Wood,
is charmingly situated at the confluence of the Conway and the Llugwy,
in a basin surrounded with luxuriantly- wooded cliffs and hills, and
is perhaps the most popular resort in Wales for artists, anglers, and
tourists. The Llugwy is crossed opposite the village by the Pont-
y-Pair, a romantic structure of the 15th cent., below which the
stream runs in a most picturesquely broken course, while about 3/4 M.
to the S. is the Waterloo Bridge, crossing the Conway. Near the
railway-station is the old Church, shaded with yew-trees and now
used for interments only. Bettws is within 8 M. of the W. base of
Snowdon , and only 4 M. from Moel Siabod but no mountain is
,

visible from its somewhat confined situation.

The Environs of Bettws, with their beautiful woods, streams, and
waterfalls, are full of interest for walkers. A good introduction to the
beauties of the neighbourhood is afforded by the general view obtained
from Llyn Elsi or the hill above Capel Garmon. To reach the former,
which lies about l 3/i M. to the S.W., we ascend to the left by a path
behind the new church. At a direction-stone we keep to the right. Beyond
a small farm the path leads across the moorland plateau to the S., in
the direction of the valley of the Lledr, and turns to the right at a cairn,
soon reaching the lonely little tarn of Llyn Elsi. The most conspicuous
feature of the "View hence is the beautifully-formed Moel Siabod ('Shahod'
2865 ft.). Behind Moel Siabod rises Snowdon; and the Glyders, Carnedd
Dafydd, and Carnedd Llewelyn are also well seen.
The road to Capel Garmon, a small village 2 M. to the S.E., crosses
Waterloo Bridge (see above) and turns to the left. If the view alone is
the object, it is enough to ascend to the top of Oallt-y-Foel (800 ft.), the
hill which here rises to the left (ascent in 3/i hr. from Bettws); but a
pleasant round may be made by going on to Capel Garmon and the Crom-
lech, 1 M. beyond it, and then returning to (3'/z M.) Bettws by the high-road.
The following Round of about 18 M. embraces most of the other
favourite points near Bettws. Those who prefer driving will find public
conveyances plying to the Swallow Falls, the Fairy Glen, and the Conway
Falls. The walk across the hill from Pont-y-Uyfyng to Dolwyddelan,
though not more than 4 M. in direct length, is rather rough and fatiguing
(especially after rain) and takes l'/«-2 hrs.
 to Ffestinioy. BETTWS-Y-COED. 40. Route. 309
We leave the village by the main Holyhead road, which runs to the
W. from Pont-y-Pair. After 3 /< M. we reach a small gate on the right,
which leads to the so-called Miner's Bridge, a kind of ladder crossing
the picturesque We
little Llugwy. then return to the road, and l'/4 M.
farther on reach the Swallow Falls Hotel, opposite which is a gate leading
to the *Swallow Falls, or Rhaiadr-y-Wermol (probably corrupted from
'Rhaiadr Ewynawl', i. e. the foaming cataract). These picturesque falls
are three in number, and after rain are very fine. Visitors should follow the
path to the foot of the middle fall and to the head of the uppermost fall.
Beyond the Swallow Falls the road bends a little to the left, still
skirting the Llugwy, the placid and glassy surface of which above the
falls affords a pleasing contrast to its broken and chafing course below.
To the left we have a fine view of Moel Siabod, with Snowdon to the
right in the distance. We cross the Llugwy, 3/i ^- above the falls, by
the Ty Hyll Bridge , which is said to derive its name ('ugly cottage')
from the primitive specimen of domestic architecture adjoining it. After
I1/4 M. more, where the valley narrows and turns to the right, we reach
another bridge, affording a view (to the left) of the Pont-y-Gyfyng , a
picturesque bridge of one arch, below which the river forms a series of
cascades. A few hundred yards farther on we pass the small Tyn-y-Coed
Hotel and in about 3min. more reach the Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel (well spoken of).
iMoel Siabod (2865 ft.; "View) may be ascended from this point in
3 We
I\ hr. cross the river by the wooden bridge opposite the hotel,
pass to the right through a plantation, cross a wall, and turn to the left.
We soon reach the open hillside, where our course is plain.]
We should follow the road for a few hundred yards beyond the Tan-
y-Bwlch hotel, in order to obtain one of the best views of Snowdon, which
rises before us in its full extent. The four peaks, named from left to
right, are Lliwedd, Y Wyddfa (the summit), Crib Goch (in front), and Orib-
y-Dysgyl. About 1 M. beyond Tan-y-Bwlch is Capel Ourig (p. 316).
After our sight of Snowdon, however, we retrace our steps to the
Pont-y-Oyfyng, cross it, and where the cart-track forks keep to the left,
passing almost immediately afterwards a little church. At a school a
little way farther on, we ascend to the right, and soon after, where
the path again forks, near a cottage on the hillside, keep to the
left. The track here is very rough and stony. In a few min. more (20-25
min. from Pont-y-Gyfyng) we pass through a gate and 10 min. later
reach the top of the ridge, where the mountains on the other side come
into sight. The path at the top, and in descending, is often very ill-
defined, but by following the general direction of the water-course we
cannot go far astray. Another gate is passed soon after we begin the
descent, and in about 10 min. a ruined hut comes in sight, which serves
as our next landmark. We keep to the left of the bed of the stream
(generally dry). In 10 min. more we cross a stream by a slab-bridge and
ascend straight to the above-mentioned hut. Beyond the hut we still fol-
low the water-course, and in 1 /i hr. cross two streams. After the second
of those we keep to the left, pass through (10 min.) a gate, and in 5 min.
more reach Dolwyddelan (p. 310), on the high-road and railway from
Bettws to Ffestiniog. The nearest inn is Elen's Castle, a few yards to the
right. The station is on the other side of the river, beyond the bridge.
For Bettws we turn to the left and follow the road down the pretty
* Valley of the Lledr, with its varied colouring and picturesquely broken
stream. l 3 /« M. Pont-y-Pant (Hotel), at the prettiest part of the valley.
After li/a M. more we pass under a railway-bridge. The track to the left
leads straight to (2V2 M.) Bettws, but we follow the road and reach
(l'/4 M.) another bridge, which we leave to the right. About '/« M.
farther on is yet another bridge, which we cross. The rough lane to the
right (stile) leads to the Fairy Glen, which is entered by 0/4 M.) a small
gate on the right (adm. 2d.). [The key of the glen is kept at a cottage
on the left a little way up the lane, indicated by a notice-board; but in
summer the custodian is generally to be found in the glen itself.]
The "Fairy Glen is a romantic little dell, with a charming combina-
tion of waterfall, rock, and wood. There is no path along the stream,
310 Route 40. NANT FFRANCON. From Llandudno
and we have to return to the gate by which we quitted the lane. Here
we turn to the right and soon cross another stile. Just before we reach
the main Corwen road (view of Moel SiabodJ, a gate on the right (adm.
2d.) admits to the path descending to the "Conway Falls, 50 ft. high.
We now return to the gate, enter the main road, follow it for
150-200 yds. to the right, then turn to the right, cross the bridge over
the Conway, and follow the Penmachno road to ('/2 M.) the Pant Bridge.
The self-styled 'janitor' in the old
1
toll-house here keeps the key admitting
to the so-called 'Roman Bridge , which spans the stream just below Pant
Bridge (small gratuity). — -We now descend by a cart-track near the left
bank of the Machno, and soon reach Pcmdy Mill, a favourite 'bit' with artists.
The "Machno Falls are approached through the mill-garden (gratuity).
Just below the falls the Machno joins the Conway, and our path (a stony
cart-track) descends near the latter stream to a row of cottages. Beyond
these, where the track forks, we keep to the right, and soon reach the
Bettws and Dolwyddelan road at the bridge before the one we crossed
(comp. p. 309), which is about IV2 M. from Bettws. When we again
reach the bridge which we crossed on our way to the Fairy Glen (see
above) we may either cross it and follow the road to the left, or we may
follow the cart-track on the other bank and cross by Pont-y-Pair.
From Bettws-y-Coed to Bangor, 201/2 M., coach in 4V2 hrs. (fare 6s.).
This 'Drive affords a great variety of scenery. — From Bettws to (5>/2 M.)
Capel Gurig, see p. 309. (Ascent of Snowdon, see p. 321; drive through
the vale of Llanberis, see pp. 315, 316.) The Bangor road turns to
the N. and ascends through the bleak Llugwy valley. The three-peaked
"Try/an (3000 ft.) soon comes into view on the left; on the central peak
are the 'Shepherd and his Wife', two upright rocks resembling human
figures (ascent, by the W. side, in l-l'/2 hr., recommended to good climb-
ers). We pass the highest part of the road about 9 M. from Bettws, shortly
before reaching Llyn Ogwen, a mountain-lake 1M. long. The coach stops
for about 1/2 hr. at the small Temperance Inn at the W. end of Llyn
Ogwen, and this affords time for a flying visit to the gloomy and romantic
little "Llpn Idwal, which lies about 1 /i M. to the S. of the road and takes
its name from a Welsh prince said to have been drowned here by his foster-
father. High up on the rocks on its W. side is a curious cleft known
as the Twll Du ('black cleft'), or the 'Devil's Kitchen', which extends back
for about 500 ft. and is 200-300 ft. deep, while it is only about 6 ft. wide.
After heavy rain the stream descends from the cleft in a fine cataract.
The waters of Llyn Ogwen are discharged at its W. end in a series of
cascades called the 'Falls of Benglog. These falls break through
the rocky barrier at the head of 5 'Nant Ffrancon (Vale of the Beavers),
which, however, is seen to much greater advantage by those coming in
the opposite direction. The mountain-background at the head of the pass
(behind us) is formed by Y Glyder Fawr (3275 ft.) and Y Qlyder Fach
(3250 ft.). The road descends along the E. side of the valley, skirting
the base of Carnedd Dafydd (p. 288). Near the foot of Nant Ffrancon
the Penrhyn Slate Quarries (p. 287) come into view on the left, and we
soon reach Bethesda, whence the route to Bangor is described at p. 286.
Walkers may leave the coach at Bethesda and visit the Slate Quarries,
as described at p. 287; the quarrymen, however, stop work at 5.30 p. m.
Pleasant excursions may also be made from Bettws to (6 M.) Llanrwxt
via, Llyn-y-Parc (comp. p. 308), and to (6'/2 M.) Pentre Voelas. The fine
drives to Beddgelerl and Llanberis, skirting respectively the E. and N.
base of Snowdon, are described at pp. 318, 315. For those who start from
Bettws the ascent of Snowdon begins at (IOV2 M.) Pen-y-Pass (see p. 321),
which is passed by the coaches between Bettws and Llanberis.
Continuation op Railway Journey. Beyond Bettws the train
follows the Conway for about 1 M. more, and then turns to the right
into the picturesque *Valley of the Lledr. Fine view of Moel Siabod
to the right. 22i/ M. Pont-y-Pant (Hotel), see p. 309. The peak
of Snowdon soon comes
2
into sight on the right. — 24 M. Dolwyd-
 to Ffestiniog. FFESTINIOG. 40. Route. 311

delan (Benar View; Eleris Castle; Owydir Arms, all unpretending),

pronounced 'Dolooithe'lan' is a quarrymen's village, at the foot of
,

Moel Siabod. About 1 M. farther up the valley is Dolwyddelan

Castle, the birthplace of Llewelyn the Great. The old Roman
road 8arn Helen ascends the Cwm Penamnaen to the S. of the
, , ,

station. The ascent of Moel Siabod takes about 2 hrs. we leave ;

the valley almost opposite the castle. Route across the E. spur of
Moel Siabod to Tan-y-Bwlch (2 hrs.), see p. 309. Passing Dol- —
wyddelan Castle on the right, we next reach (26 M.J Roman Bridge,
the name of which is unexplained. Good view of Snowdon, to the
right. The train then turns to the left and quits the Lledr valley
by a tunnel more than 2 M. long, emerging amid the slate-quarries
and rubbish heaps of Blaenau Ffestiniog. Comp. the Map, p. 318.
30y2 M. Blaenau Ffestiniog (North Western Hotel, close to
the L. N. W. R. Station Queen's, near the G. W. R. Station)
; a ,

small town of recent origin , occupies a fine situation at the head

of the valley of the Dwyryd ('Dooyrid'), surrounded by mountains,
which are, however, greatly disfigured by slate -quarries. Pop.
10,000. The Palmerston Quarry is the most important. The work-
ings here resemble mines more than the open-air quarries at
Penrhyn (p. 287), and a visit to them is therefore less convenient.
An extensive landslip occurred here in 1883, when it is estimated
that five million tons of rock fell.
The terminus of the G. W. line to Bala (see p. 302) lies about Va M -

to the E. of the L. N. W. Station. It is adjoined by the terminus of the

1
'Toy Railway (p. 313), which, though called Duffies, lies really in Blaenau
Ffestiniog. The Blaenau Station of the Toy Railway is close to the L.
N. W. R. Station.
The tourist headquarters are at Ffestiniog Village which lies ,

3^2 M. to the S., at the corner where the main valley is joined
by the Cynfael. The easiest way to reach it is by the G. W. R.
(p. 302). Walkers proceed to the left throngh the town, pass the
termini of the G. W. and Toy railways and follow the road down
,

the E. side of the valley, generally near the railway.

Ffestiniog Village (*Pengwern Arms, R. & A. from 3s. 9d. ; Abbey
Arms, well spoken of), a small place with a few hundred inhab.,
is charmingly situated on a projecting hill rising between the val-
leys of the Dwyryd and the Cynfael. The best point of view is
the mound at the back of the church reached by a track to
,

the left of the churchyard-wall. To the left we look down the

pretty vale of the Dwyryd to Cardigan Bay; opposite is Moelwyn
(2529 ft. ; ascended from Blaenau Ffestiniog in 2 hrs.), and to the
right Manod Mawr (2171 ft.), rising above Blaenau. Fair trout and
salmon fishing in the Dwyryd and in Llyns Tecwyn and Oarnedd.
The first steps of the visitor to Ffestiniog are directed to the pretty Falls
of the Cynfael. Opposite the Newborough Arms Inn, just beyond the
church, we pass through the gate to the left, cross the farmyard, and
follow the obvious path leading through the fields. After '/2 M. a grassy
track descends on the right to the Lower Fall, which is chiefly interesting
for its romantic setting. We then follow the path along the N, bank
312 Route 40. RHAIADR DU. From Llandudno
of the stream, which Hows through a narrow wooded gorge, forming an
uninterrupted series of rapids and cascades. A few yards above the lower
fall is a singular rock known as 'Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit' from the tradition
that a local sage and bard used to preach from its flat top. A little farther
on, the path crosses the stream and continues to ascend on the S. bank.
One of the best points of view is the so-called 'Goat's Bridge'', a slab of
rock spanning a narrow part of the stream. The Higher Fall, descending
in two leaps, is reached a little farther on. Many visitors turn here,
but the ravine is still very picturesque higher up, and the stream forms
other little falls. The path passes under a railway-bridge, crosses a wall,
traverses a plantation carpeted with heather crosses another wall
, , and
reaches a farm-road, which leads to the left after a few yards to the
Ffestiniog and Trawsfynydd road. Pont Newydd (see below), l'/4 M. from
Ffestiniog, lies a few paces to the left.
Crossing Pont Newydd, we may ascend the lane to the right for V4 M.
and then descend by a road to the right which turns to the left on
,

reaching the stream and leads along its N. bank. At the C/2 M.) fork
we ascend to the left, avoiding the descent to the stepping-stones. In
13 min. more we pass Cym Cynfael, a lonely farm-house, once the
home of Hugh Lloyd (see above). The road here is a mere grassy track;
farther on, it becomes very stony, and ascends to the left round a rocky
knoll. At the top we come in sight of the *Rhaiadr Cwm, a graceful but
narrow fall, where the Cynfael is precipitated over a lofty barrier of rock.
Just above the fall the track joins the high-road from Ffestiniog to Bala,
at a point about 3'/4 31. from Ffestiniog, for which we turn to the left.
A good view of the fall is obtained from the road after we have gone a little
way towards Ffestiniog. To the right, about 1 /t M. from the road and
not visible from it, lies Llyn-y-Morwynion, or the 'Lake of the Maidens',
about l>/4 M. below which, and also '/* M. from the road, is a spot called
the Beddau-Gwyr- Ardudwy, or 'Graves of the Men of Ardudwy'. Accord-
ing to the legend , the men of Ardudwy had carried off a number of
women from the vale of Clwyd, but were overtaken and slain here by
the injured husbands and fathers. The women, however, rather than
return to their homes, drowned themselves in the Llyn-y-Morwynion.
The road to (IV4 M.) Pont Newydd diverges to the left about 1 M.
from the point where we join the Bala road. In descending we have a
view of Moelwyn and the mountains backing the estuary of the Dwyryd.
The Bala road joins the Trawsfynydd road at the Ffestiniog station.
Tomen-y-Mor, Rhaiadk Do, and the Raven Fall. This excursion
may be begun at Maentwrog Road Station, which is 2 M. from Ffestiniog,
on the road to Trawsfynydd. From the station we follow the road to
O/4 M.) a small school, where it is joined by that leading to Maentwrog
(see below). Here we turn to the left, and after a few hundred paces we
leave the high-road by the second cart-track (very stony) to the left. This
passes under the railway; and after about 12 min., just beyond a small
cottage, we come in sight of Tomen-y-Mur (pron. 'Tommen-y-Meer') a
circular mound about 30 ft. high on the top of a grassy hill (reached
,

from the path in 10 min.). It is supposed to mark the site of the Roman
station Heriri Mons, from which the 'Sarn Helen' (p. 311) and other Roman
roads diverged. It commands an extensive sea and mountain view. We
now return to the school-house and descend towards Maentwrog for about
V4 31. We then turn to the left, opposite a private road leading to
Maentwrog. After V2 M. the lane turns to the right, opposite a gate ; '/4 M.
farther on, where it forks, we ascend to the left. We next reach an open
spot commanding a good view of the Vale of Ffestiniog, and soon pass
O/2 M.) a cottage on the right, where we begin the descent to the lovely
wooded glen of the Prytor. After 3 min. we descend to the left to a door
in a wall. The path on the other side descends steeply to the track leading
along the stream. Ascending this to the left, we soon come (3 min.) in
sight of 'Rhaiadr Du (pron. 'Dee'), or the 'Black Fall', most romantically
placed. To reach the other fall, which is lower down, we return by the
path to (5 min.) a wicket-gate and bear to the right to (3 min.) an old
limekiln. Here we turn sharply to the left and descend for about 300 yds.,
 to Ffestiniog. MAENTWROG. dO. Route. 313
when a small path on the right leads to the various points of view for
the Haven Fall. Visitors should not go too near the brink. We
now
return to the limekiln, and 4-5 min. beyond it, at a gate, rejoin the main
track from which we diverged to visit Rhaiadr Du. Our route now
descends through a charming wooded glen to p/j M.) the high-road, which
we follow to the right to (3/4 M.) Maentwrog (see below).
[In coming from Maentwrog we follow the Harlech road for »/4 M.
and leave it by a red gate on the left, just before a bridge. In a few
paces more we pass another gate, beyond which there is a placard in-
dicating the house of the guide to the falls. The track to the latter
leads straight on, up the hill, and the guide may be dispensed with.]
Maentwrog (Grapes Hotel), pron. 'Mantoorog', is a small village
on the S. side of the valley of the Dwyryd, at the foot of a low and
partly wooded hill. It derives its name from the stone (maen) of
St. Twrog, a rude uninscribed monument, 4 ft. high, at the "W. end
of the church. On the opposite side of the valley is Tan-y-Bwlch
(p. 314). The mansion of Plas (p. 314) is also a conspicuous ob-
ject. The distance by road from Maentwrog to Ffestiniog is 3 M.
The road may be quitted at the (2V4 M.) foot of the last long hill
up to the village, and the footpath through the vale of the Cynfael
followed (stile to the right, at the bridge).
The above excursions may be accomplished in one day by tolerable
walkers. Llyn Morwynion and the Graves of the Men of Ardudwy may
be left out without much loss, and Tomen-y-Mur might also be omitted.
The stages are as follows: From Ffestiniog to the Cynfael Falls and up
the valley to Pont Newydd l'/2 M.; from Pont Newydd to the Rhaiadr
Cwm l'/s M.; back to Pont Newydd by the Bala road 21 /* M. ; from Pont
Newydd to Maentwrog Road l 1 /* M. thence to Tomen-y-Mur and back
;

2 M. ; visit to Rhaiadr Du and the Raven Fall, and down to Maentwrog

4 M. ; from Maentwrog to Ffestiniog 3 M. This makes in all 15-16 M.,
for which 6-7 hrs. should be allowed.
Excursions may also be made from Ffestiniog to (3 M.) Tcm-y-Bwlch
and (16 M.) Beddgelert (see p. 319) , and via (5 M.) Trawtfynydd to the
(5 M.) Gate of Ardudwy (p. 291) or Pistyll-y-Cain (p. 299). The ascent of
the Manods (p. 311) does not repay the exertion , but Moelwyn (p. 311) or
Cynicht (p. 319 ; 4 hrs.) may be climbed.
From Blaenau Ffestiniog to Port Madoc by the 'Narrow
Gauge Railway', 13 M., in 1 hr. (fares 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 8d.;
return-tickets 4s. 4cZ., 3s. Gd., 2s. 4aY).
This 'Toy Railway', in which the gauge is only 2 ft. and the carriages
and locomotives correspondingly tiny, was originally a tram-line (made in
1836) for conveying slate, and was opened as a passenger-line in 1869. It
runs along the N. side of the Dwyryd valley, of which it affords charm-
ing views. The engineering skill shown in the construction of the line
is very great, and some of the curves are astonishingly abrupt. In approach-
ing Tan-y-Bwlch station we sometimes see the train we here meet and
pass steaming along the other side of the ravine in a direction parallel
to our own. The open first-class carriages afford the best views (to the
left in descending). Passengers should beware of putting their heads out
of the windows, as the train runs within a hand's-breadth of the walls of
the rocky cuttings. The railway is seen to greatest advantage in ascending.
The train starts from the terminus at Duffws (710ft; see p. 311)
and almost immediately stops again at Blaenau Ffestiniog. 2*/2 M.
Tan- y- Oris iau (630 ft) is the best starting-place for the ascent of
Moelwyn (1 V2 nr • ^
e tuen P ass through a tunnel 3
/4 M. long,
,

beyond which we have a view of the valley with the village of

,
314 Route 40. LLANBP:EIS. From Carnarvon

Ffestiniog perched on a hill on the other side. We

next thread
another tunnel, pass a lake on the left, and a small waterfall on the
right, and bend to the right round the glen of Tan-y-Bwlch. 6 M.
Tan-y-Bwlch (400 ft; *Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel, in the valley, 1 M.
below), the crossing-station of the line, lies at the head of the most
abrupt curve. Beyond Tan-y-Bwlch we see Maentwrog (p. 313) on
the other side of the valley and the mansion of Plas immediately
below us (visitors admitted to the grounds). Fine views of the
estuary of the Dwyryd. 10 M. Penrhyn, a quarrymen's village. At
(11 M.) Mynffordd Junction we cross the Cambrian railway (see
p. 293). We then cross Traeth Mawr by along embankment (view
of Snowdon to the right) and reach (13 M.) Port Madoc (see p. 293).

e. From Carnarvon to Llanberis and Bettws-y-Coed.

Railway from Carnarvon to (9 M.) Llanberis in J /2 hr. (fares Is. 8d.,

Is. 3d., ild.). Coach from Llanberis to (15V2 M.) Bellws-y-Goed in 23 /4-3 hrs.
(fare is.). The coaches run in connection with the morning-trains. A
coach also leaves Carnarvon about 11 a. m. and makes the round of
Snowdon via Beddgelert and Bettws, reaching Llanberis in the evening (in
time for table d'hote at the Victoria).
As the train quits Carnarvon station we see Twt Hill (p. 291")
to the left, and after crossing the Seiont we obtain a good retro-
spect of the castle to the right. Our line then diverges to the left
from the line to Afon Wen (p. 292) and ascends the wooded valley
of the Seiont, crossing the stream several times. Beyond (7M.) Cwm-
y-Glo we pass through a tunnel (view of Snowdon to the right) and
reach Llyn Padarn (2 M. long) the larger of the two Llanberis
,

lakes, the beauty of which has been spoiled by slate-quarries.

9 M. Llanberis. — Hotels. 'Victoria, a large house, finely situated
just outside the village, 300 yds. from the station, with a garden, R. & A.
4s. Gd., table d'hote at 7 p.m. 4s.; Padarn Villa, well spoken of; Castle,
Snowdon Valley, Vaenol Aiims, an unpretending inn, at Old Llanberis. —
Lodgings in the village.
Carriage to Pen-y-Pass 5s. 6d. ,Pen-y-Owryd 6s. Capel Gurig 10s.,
,

Beddgelerl lis., Bettws-y-Coed 16s., and Bangor via Capel Curig 26s.
Guides and Ponies for the ascent of Snowdon, see p. 321.
Llanberis, the 'Chamonix of Wales', with about 2000 inhab., is
situated at the head of Llyn Padarn, at the N.W. base of Snow-
don, and near the foot of the celebrated Pass of Llanberis. The
immediate neighbourhood is, however, becoming more and more
disfigured by huge slate-quarries. The two Lakes of Llanberis are
both surrounded by wild and barren hills, descending abruptly to
the water's edge. Llyn Peris to the S. E., IY4M. long, is the more
striking of the two, but is sadly encroached upon by the Dinorwic
Slate Quarries. Behind the Victoria Hotel, at the lower end of
Llyn Peris, is the picturesque Dolbadam Castle, a solitary tower,
whence there is a good view up the pass of Llanberis. The small
village of Old Llanberis lies 2 M. to the S. E., at the beginning of
the pass. Llanberis is the starting-point for the easiest ascent of
Snowdon (see p. 321).
 to Bettws-y-Coed. LLANBERIS. 40. Route. 315
About V2 M. to the S. of the Victoria Hotel is the romantic waterfall
of "Ceunant Mawr ('great chasm'). We
follow the lane diverging from
the road immediately opposite the approach to the hotel, turn to the right
after 300 yds. (the Snowdon route leading straight on), cross the stream,
and a little farther on turn to the left through a little gate and round the
back of some cottages. The path then leads direct to the falls. From
the village we may also ascend past the handsome new Church and join
the above route at the cottages. The fall, which is 60 ft. high, makes a
singular bend in the middle ; after heavy rain it covers the whole face of
the rock.
The Dinorwic Slate Quarries, rising tier over tier above Llyn Peris,
are very productive and scarcely less imposing than those of Penrhyn.
The blasting operations take place during the first few minutes of each
hour; notice is given by a fog-horn, and the paths near the quarry are
closed for the time being.
From Llanbekis to the Snowdon Ranger, 4 M. (13/4 hr.). We as-
cend past the Ceunant Mawr waterfall (see above) and follow the cart-
track along the right (W.) side of the valley. On the opposite side of
the cwm is seen the Snowdon track. Beyond some cottages the cart-track
narrows to a bridle-path. Soon afterwards it bends to the right and ascends
through the lonely Maes Cwm to (1-1V4 hr.) Bwlch-y-Maes-Cam (1100 ft.),
the head of the pass, where a fine mountain-view breaks on our gaze,
the most conspicuous summit at first being that of T Oarn. Snowdon is
also well seen in our rear, and Llyn Cwellyn comes into sight as we
descend. We pass through the small red gate to the left, and cross the
field to (200 yds.) a similar red gate. Beyond this point the path is very
ill-defined, but by bearing to the right we soon strike the Snowdon track
(p. 322) and reach a gate with miry ground on both sides of it, whence
a zigzag green track descends to a small farm just above the road and
the railway. The Snowdon Ranger (see p. 317) lies a little way to the left
and is reached in about '/2 hr. (or less) from the time we left the top of
the pass. Ascent of Snowdon from this point, see p. 322.
[In the reverse direction we cross the railway at the level crossing a
little to the N. of the Snowdon Ranger and pass through the (5 min.)
farm-yard. The path at first is scarcely marked, but the zigzag green
track, ascending to (20 min.) the gate with wet ground on both sides, is
distinctly visible. After passing through the gate we diverge to the left
from the well-marked Snowdon track and ascend across the grassy slope,
soon reaching the lower of the above-mentioned red gates. The ascent
to the top of the pass from this side takes about 3 /t hr.]
The easy ascent of Moel Eilio (2300 ft. 5 *View), which rises to the S. of
Llanberis, is worth making if time permit.
From Llanberis to Bethesda, 8 M. This mountain-walk is the short-
est route from Llanberis to Nant Ffrancon and Bangor. We
pass over
the bridge between the lakes and then ascend to the left (see note as to
the blasting, above). Farther on we cross a dreary moor, with a reser-
voir in the middle, pass a little to the left of the small hills Drysgol
Fawr and Moel-y-Ci, and then descend by SI. Anne's Chapel to Bethesda
(p. 287). The route however, is intricate and requires the aid of a good
map or guide. —
With this walk may be combined (comp. Map) the ascent
of the Elidyr Fawr (3033 ft. ; 2V2 hrs. from Llanberis), which commands
a good mountain-panorama, with Anglesey and the Menai Strait.
From Llanbbbjs to Bettws-y-Coed. The coach runs along the
W.side of Llyn Peris, passing a small castellated building on the left,
descends to (2 M.) Old Llanberis (see above), and enters the *Pass
of Llanberis, the wildest valley in N. Wales. The road now ascends
pretty steeply, between the towering precipices of Snowdon on
the right and Y Garn and the Glyders on the left.
A fine mountain-route (3-4 hrs.) leads from Old Llanberis across the
range separating the Pass of Llanberis from Nant Ffrancon. We turn to
the left a few yards beyond the Church, which possesses an interesting
 ;

316 Route M. PEN-Y-UWRYD.

roof of the 15th cent., and follow a path up the hill. From the highest
cottage we ascend steeply to the right of a wall, and when the wall
turns we keep to the right by a streamlet. The path soon ends, but
our route leads to the E., across the ridge to the S. of the summit
of Y Gam (3107 ft.). Fine view of Snowdon to the right. Beyond the
ridge we descend to Llyn-y-Cwn ('Lake of Dogs') and the head of the
Twll Du or Devil's Kitchen (p. 310), where we obtain a splendid *View.
From Llyn-y-Cwn it is a climb of about 3 j\ hr. (3 hrs. from Old Llanberis)
to the top of Y Glyder Fawr (3275 ft.; "View of Snowdon and the Pass of
Llanberis). To reach Llyn Ogwen (p. 310) we descend to the right of the
Devil's Kitchen (caution necessary in misty weather) to Llyn Idwal.
As we ascend the valley rapidly grows narrower and wilder.
,

Good retrospect of the Llanberis lakes and Dolbadarn Castle. To

the right is the huge hollow of *Cwm Glas, high up between the
towering cliffs of Crib-Goch and Crib-y-Ddysgyl. Numerous traces
of glacial action are visible on the rocks. About l 1 ^ M. from Old
Llanberis we pass a small foot-bridge on the right, and soon after
(Y4 M.) reach a huge fallen boulder (on the left), erroneously
named the Cromlech. We then cross the Pont-y- Oromlech, and as-
cend to (iy2 M) Oorphioysfa or Pen-y-Pass (1200 ft.; Inn), the
head of the pass, commanding a fine view in both directions. [As-
cent of Snowdon, the summit of which is nowhere visible from the
Pass of Llanberis, from this point, see p. 321.] About 4 /2 M.
beyond the inn the road turns sharply to the left, and we have a
charming view down Nant Gwynant (p. 318) to the right, with Cy-
nicht in the background. Moel Siabod (p. 309), seen to little ad-
vantage from this side, is prominent infront. At (Y2 M.) *Pen-y-
Gwryd Inn ('Pen-y-Goorid'; 970 ft.), patronised by anglers and by
tourists making the ascent of Snowdon from this side (comp. p. 321),
the road through Nant Gwynant to Beddgelert diverges to the right
(see p. 318).
The ascent of Moel Siabod (2865 ft.) from Pen-y-Gwryd takes about
2 hrs. (descent to Dolwyddelan, see p. 309, in I-IV2 hr.). The shortest
ascent of Y Glyder Fawr (see above; l'/2-2 hrs.) is also made from Pen-
y-Gwyrd or Gorphwysfa. The route, which can scarcely be missed, leads
straight up the ridge extending from Gorphwysfa (see Map).
Beyond Pen-y-Gwryd the road descends the somewhat uninter-
esting Nant-y-Owryd, with a view of the Capel Curig lakes in the
distance, to (4 M.) Capel Curig ('Kappel Kerrig'; *Royal; Bryn-
ij/rcft, plain), situated amid some of the finest scenery of N. Wales,

and much frequented by mountaineers. It commands admirable

views of Snowdon. Visitors to the Eoyal Hotel are entitled to fish
in the Llyniau Mymbyr, two small lakes adjoining the village.
Among the ascents most frequently made from Capel Curig, after
Snowdon (see p. 321), are those of Moel Siabod (p. 309; ly2 hr.), Carnedd
Dafydd (p. 28S 21/2-3 hrs.), Carnedd Llewelyn (p. 288 2y2 -3 hrs.), Pen Llithrig
; ;

(2623 ft.; l'/4 hr.), and Creigiau Gleision (l'/4 br), between Llyns Cwlyd
and Crafnant. A pleasant walk may be taken to Trefriw (p. 307), either
via (2V2M.) Llyn Cwlyd (9M.; 3Vz-4V2 hrs.), or Toy Llyn Crafnant (6 3 /4 M.
2'/2-3 hrs.), or by Llyn Geirionydd (7>/2 M. ; 3-4 hrs.).
From Capel Curig to (5y2 M.) Bettws-y-Coed, see p. 309.
 SNOWDON RANGER. 40. Route. 317

f. From Carnarvon to the Snowdon Banger, Bhyd-Ddu,

and Beddgelert.
Railway to (12V2 M.) Rhyd-Ddu in 1-2 hrs. (fares 2s. 2d., Is. 8<f., is.
3d.).Omnibus from Rhyd-Ddu to (4 M.) Beddgelert in 8/4 hr. From Car-
narvon we may also reach Beddgelert via Llanberis whence a coach
,

run9 via Pen-y-Gwryd to (14>/2 M.) Beddgelert in 2'/a hrs. (fare 4s.); comp.
R. 40e. Another coach, starting in the morning, runs all the way from
Carnarvon to (13 M.) Beddgelert (fare 3s. 6<J. ; see p. 317).
From Carnarvon to (3'/4 M.) Dinas, see p. 292. We here leave
the L. N. W. Railway and proceed by the narrow-gauge line of the
Dinas and Snowdon District Railway, which diverges to the left.
The line at once begins to ascend, commanding a view to the right
of the Rivals (p. 292) and the Menai Strait. From (57 2 M.) Tryfan
Junction a short branch diverges on the right to (3 M.) Bryngwyn,
on the slope of Moel-y-Tryfan (fine view). The train now follows
the valley of the Owrfai to (7 M.) Waenfawr and (8 M.) Bettws
Oarmon. The latter is the station for the picturesque Nant Mill,
of which we have a view to the left a little farther on. To the left
is Moel Eilio, and to the right, in front, is Mynydd Mawr (2295 ft.),
with the precipitous Craig Cwm Bychan, at the foot of Llyn Cwellyn.
The train now skirts the N. side of the lake, which is about 1 M.
long, while in front we see the summit of Snowdon ('Y Wyddfa'),
with the lower peak of Yr Aran (2264 ft.) to the right.
lO 1 ^ M. Snowdon Banger Station (*Jnn, unpretending), on the
N. side of Llyn Cwellyn, is one of the regular starting-points for
the ascent of Snowdon (see p. 322), and is frequented by anglers
(trout and char) in Llyn Cwellyn. The top of Mynydd Mawr (see
above), on the other side of the lake, commands a good view. From
the Snowdon Ranger to (4 M.) Llanberis, see p. 315.
Beyond the Snowdon Ranger the train crosses a ravine, with a
waterfall to the left, and aacends steadily. Fine views. Moel
Hebog (p. 319) rises in front.
I2Y2 M. Bhyd-Ddu (Cwellyn Arms, a rustic inn), pronounced
'Ruddthy', the terminus of the railway, is finely situated at the foot
of Snowdon, which here presents a very imposing appearance.
Rhyd-Ddu is only 3V2 M. from the summit (ascent, see p. 322). A
road beginning opposite the inn ascends past Llyn-y - Dywarchen
to Bwlch-y-Felin (750 ft.) and then descends between Mynydd
Mawr and Y Gam to (6 M.) Nantlle (p. 292).
Rhyd-Ddu is 4 M. from Beddgelert (omn. , see above). The
road runs near the E. bank of Llyn-y-Oader, and soon reaches the
highest point of the route (600 ft.). About 1 M. from Rhyd-Ddu
we pass on the right Pitt's Head , a rock supposed to resemble
, ,

that statesman ;farther on is another rock inscribed Llam Trwsgyll,

commemorating the step ('llam') made by the giant Trwsgyll from
this point to the other side of the stream.
4 M. Beddgelert. — Hotels. "Royal Goat, a few hundred yards
from the village, on the road to Port Madoc, R. & A. 4»., table d'hote
4s. Bd. ; /Sabacen's Head, Prince Llewelyn, in the village. —
Lodgings.
318 Route 40. BEDDGELERT. From Carnarvon
Coaches run from Beddgelert to Port Madoc (8 M. ; fare 2s. 6d.),
Beltws-y-Coed (17'/z M.; 5s., return 8s.), Llanberis iW/t M.; 4s.), Pen-y-
Gusryd (8 M.), and Capel Curig (12 M.).
Fishing may be obtained in the Colwyn, the Glaslyn, and numerous
fakes and tarns (particulars at the hotels).
Beddgelert, the 'gem of Welsh, villages', is charmingly situated
at the junction of the Colwyn and Olaslyn, near the S. base of
Snowdon, and is in every respect one of the best centres for tourists
in N. Wales. It is much less shut in than Bettws-y-Coed, and is
surrounded by mountains instead of hills its environs are not
;

marred by slate-quairies like those of Llanberis while its romantic

;

situation has more individuality than that of Dolgelley. It derives

its name, meaning 'Grave of Gelert', from the touching legend of
Llewelyn's hound, of which this is said to have been the scene.
The grave is marked by a few rude stones in a small shaded enclosure
in the second field to the S. of the village.
We reach it either by a footpath beginning close to the wooden
bridge at the confluence of the streams, or by passing through the shrub-
bery in front of the Goat Hotel and turning to the right. Wales, however,
does not monopolize this pathetic story any more than Switzerland does that,
of William Tell; and similar legends have been current in Ireland, France,
India, and Persia. Beddgelert is the principal scene of Southey's 'Madoc'.
About 1 Y2 M. to the S. of the village, on the road to Port Madoc
(see below), is the highly romantic **Pass of Aberglaslyn, en-
closed by sheer walls of rock 800 ft. high, which barely leave room
for the road and the little river Olaslyn , here crossed by the
Pont Aberglaslyn. The richly-tinted rocks, the fine sky-line of the
cliffs, the clear sea-green colour and picturesque brokenness of the
river, the grouping of the trees, and the romantic ivy-draped bridge
combine to make this one of the loveliest scenes in Wales. The
best point of view is on the Port Madoc road, a little beyond the
bridge. We may return to Beddgelert by the footpath on the E.
side of the Glaslyn (rough, and very wet after rain), or along the
top of the ridge, the Craig-y-Llan, on the same side of the stream.
From Beddgelert to Bettws-y-Coed, 17 [ /2M., coach daily in
2!/2 hrs. (fares 5s. : to Capel Curig 3s. 6d.). This fine drive, through
the picturesque *Nant Gwynant, completes the circuit of Snowdon,
joining the Llanberis and. Bettws road at (8 M.) Pen-y-Gwryd
(p. 316). The road runs towards the N. E., at the foot of Yr Aran
(p. 322), and soon reaches (2 M.) the pretty little Llyn-y- THnas.
About 1 M. farther on we have a view to the left, up Cwm-y-Llan,
of the summit of Snowdon; to the right, in front, Moel Siabod (p. 309)
is conspicuous. We then pass (1 M.) Llyn Qwynant and ascend
steeply, following the course of the Gwynant, to (4 M.) Pen-y-
Gwryd (p. 316). The mountains in front are the Olyders (p. 310).
From Pe~n-y-Gwryd to (9V2 M Bettws-y-Coed, see p. 314.
Fkom Beddgelert to Pokt Madoc, 8 M., coach several times daily
in 2 hrs. (fare 2s. Gd.). This road passes through (li/2 M.) the beautiful
"Pass of Aberglaslyn (see above) and descends the expanding valley of the
Glaslyn, skirting the slopes of Moel-Ddu. To the left rise the strikingly
formed Cimicht (p. 319) and Moelwyn (p. 311). A fine retrospect of Snowdon
 to Beddgelert. SNOWDON. 40. Route. 319
also gradually opens out. Pedestrians may save about 1 M. by diverging
to the left at (4>/2 M.) the Olaslyn Inn and following the tramway across
the marsh. The road trends to the right and soon passes under a fine
range of ivy-clad crags. In front rises Moel-y-Qest (p. 293). 7 M. Tremadoc,
and (8 M.) Port Afadoc, see p. 293.
From Beddgelebt to Ffestiniog. The new road (16 M.) crosses the
Pont Aberglaslyn (p. 318), turns to the right, and leads to the S. to
(9 M.) Penrhyndeudraeth (p. 293). Here we turn to the left and ascend
the valley of the Dwyryd, passing (4 M.) Tan-y-Bwlch Hotel (p. 314). —
The old road (13 M.), shorter and more picturesque than the new one, but
very rough for carriages, diverges to the left about '/« M. beyond an Inn,
and l'/2 M. on this side of Penrhyn. It leads over the Bwlch-y-Maen Pass,
and descends, passing below the Toy Railway, to Tan-y-Bwlch. — The best
route for walkers (11 M.) is the mountain-path, which branches to the left
from the road, just beyond a small stream, V4 M. past the Pont Aberglaslyn.
We cross (l 1 /4 M.) the small vale of Nant-y-Mor and O/2 M.) the Cwm Croesor
(slate-tramway). The track then runs along the W. slopes of the Moelwyns
to (2 l /2 M.) Tan-y-Bwlch. — The ascent of either Cynicht or Moelwyn may
be combined with this route. The top of the fine conical '-Cynicht (2370 ft.;
pron. 'Cunnicht' or 'Cnicht'), which has been called the Welsh Matterhorn,
is reached, by ascending the ridge on the hither side of Cwm Croesor
(see above), in about 2'/s hrs. after leaving Beddgelert. To reach the top
of Moelwyn (2529 ft. ; p. 311) we cross the Cwm Croesor and ascend to the
left. Robust walkers, however, may easily ascend both summits (from
Cynicht to Moelwyn 1 hr.) and descend to Ffestiniog (Tan-y-Grisiau or
Tan-y-Bwlch, see p. 314) in about 7 hrs. — Ffestiniog, see p. 311.
Ascent of Moel Hebog, 172-2 hrs. We may ascend by a path to the
N. of the Goat Hotel, passing a small farm, and turning to the right be-
yond a gap in a wall; or we may follow the Carnarvon road for a short
distance, cross the Colwyn by a small bridge, bend to the right, and as-
cend by the more northerly of the two spurs. The last part of the former
route is rather steep. The top of Moel Hebog (2578 ft.) affords a charm-
ing bird's-eye view of Beddgelert, and the panorama includes Snowdon,
the Glyders, Moel Siabod, Cader Idris, the Rivals, and Cardigan Bay.
Among other peaks which may be ascended from Beddgelert are those
of Yr Aran (2800 ft.), the S. spur of Snowdon; Mynydd Mawr (2293 ft.;
p. 317); and T Oarnedd Goch (2315 ft.).

g. Snowdon.
Snowdon (3571 Welsh Eryri, the highest mountain in Eng-
ft.),

land or Wales but 835 ft. lower than Ben Nevis in Scotland
,

(p. 495) deserves its rank as monarch of Welsh mountains as

,

much for the grandeur of its form as for its height. It consists of a
group of five distinct peaks: Y Wyddfa ('the conspicuous'), the
central and highest; Crib-y-Ooch ('red peak') and Crib-y-Ddysgyl
('Thusgil') on the N ; Lliwedd ('triple-crested') to the S.E. and ;

Yr Aran, to the S. The best view of the entire group is that from
Capel Curig (see p. 316) and the summit is , perhaps , best seen
,

from the road near Port Madoc (see above) or from the Traeth Mawr
embankment (p. 293). The view from the Nantlle valley (p. 292)
is also celebrated. Notwithstanding its name, Snowdon is 800 ft.
below the snow-line and its summit is generally free from snow
,

from April to the end of October. Snowdon like nearly all the
,

mountains of North Wales, belongs to the Cambrian and Silurian

systems, and consists mainly of slate, grit, and porphyry, sur-
mounted by felspathic lava.
320 Route 40. SNOWDON.
The four recognised ascents of Snowdon are those from Llanberis (p. 314),
C'apel Curig (Pen-y-Gwryd or Oorphwysfa; p. 320), Beddgelert {Rhyd-Ddu;
p. 317), and the Snowdon Ranger (p. 317). None of these is attended
with danger, if reasonable caution be observed; and travellers who
have had any experience in mountaineering may dispense with guides
in clear weather. The Llanberis track is particularly distinct and easy,
while it is also the least interesting. Those who wish to see the moun-
tain to greatest advantage are recommended to ascend from Capel Curig,
the finest and steepest route, and descend to Beddgelert (or vice versd).
Travellers who begin and end their excursion at Llanberis should descend
to Pen- y- Pass, and return through the fine Pass of Llanberis. Experts
will find abundant opportunity of testing their skill and nerve, especially
among the crags and precipices of Crib Goch and CwmGlas (p. 316); but
great caution is necessary when off the beaten track, and it should not be
forgotten that Snowdon has a long list of victims.
At the top of Snowdon is the so-called Snowdon Hotel, consisting of
two small huts where beds and refreshments may be obtained. A meal
of ham and eggs, bread and butter, and tea or coffee, is furnished at a
fixed charge of 2s.; and supper, bed, and breakfast cost 8s. Malt liquors
and spirits are also provided at charges that cannot be called unreasonable.
Guides. The charges for guides are as given below, and travellers
should not encourage their habit of asking for an additional douceur,
unless they have had unusual trouble. The guides should carry light
wraps, etc. Solitary travellers will generally find a companion at the hotels.
The **Vibw from the top of Snowdon though scarcely so
,

wild and grand as some of the mountain-panoramas in Scotland

(e. g. the mountains of Skye, p. 491), is very extensive and varied,
including the greater part of North Wales, a wide expanse of sea,
and upwards of twenty lakes and tarns. The view at sunrise or
sunset is particularly fine (night -quarters, see ahove); hut the
summit is often swathed in mist for days at a time, and visitors
should prepare themselves for a possible disappointment. The mist,
however, is not always an unmixed evil, as some of the finest
effects are produced by its surging or dispersal.
View. One of the most striking features is formed by the subsidiary
ridges and huge hollows of Snowdon itself, which fill up the immediate
foreground: to the N. and N.E. Crib-Goch and Crib-y-Ddysgyl, with the
deep depression of Cwm Qlas; to the S.W. and S. Lliwedd (with a mem-
orial cross to a tourist killed in 1888) and Yr Aran, with the Cwm-y-
Llan between them; to the W. and N.W. the less sharply-defined ridges
of Llechog and Clogwyn-du'r-Arddu. To the N., beyond Crib Goch, the view
extends to the Sea, Anglesey, the Menai Strait and Bridges, and, in the
background, the Isle of Man. The lower end of Llyn Padarn at Llan-
beris is seen a little to the left of N., and to the right of it rises the
pointed Elidyr-Fawr, next to which come the lofty Oarnedd Dafydd and
Camedd Llewelyn. To the right of the latter, and somewhat nearer, are
the Olyders, just behind which is the pyramidal Tryfan. To the N.E.
stretch the Clwydian Bills, and due E. is Moel Siabod, with the Capel
Curig lakes to the left of it. In the foreground are Glaslyn and Llyn
Llydaw, with the green Nant Gwynant behind the latter. To the right of
Siabod, in the background, are the Berwyns, and still farther to the right
(S.E.) are the distant summits of the Arenigs and the Arans. Almost
in the same direction, but much nearer, rise Moelwyn. and the finely-
shaped Cynicht. Almost due S. rises Cader Idris, with a bit of Plinlimmon
behind it. To the right is Cardigan Bay, seen in its full extent from St.
David^s Head on the S. to the Lleyn Promontory on the N. To the S.W.
rises Moel Hebog, to the right of which, and farther off, are the sharp
peaks of the Rivals. The chief sheets of water visible to the S.W. andW.
are the Nanllle Lakes, Lhm-y-Gader, and Llyn C'wellyn. To the N. (right)
Cumbrian Mts. N.E
CarneddDafydd Cwm G!as Moel Fammau Moel-_y- Camelyn
3430 1823 18S7
Pdnmaenmawr ! Y Glyder- MoelSiabod
1553 -fawr3275 I-fach325o HUH
YTryfen
3000 !

Wagner & Dfbes' G«0# Eat fib' T.eipsi

Panorama from the Top of Snowdon.

 ;;

Ascents. SNOWDON. 40. Route. 321

of the last rises Moel Eilio, beyond which the eye regains its starting-
point. In clear weather the Wicklow Mts. (70 M. distant) are visible to the
W. and the Cumbrian Mts to the N.E. ; and it is said that even a part of
Scotland may sometimes be distinguished. Comp. the Panorama.
Ascbnt or Snowdon from Llanberis (5 M., in l^-^/g hrs.
guide 5s. with descent to Beddgelert, Snowdon Ranger, or Capel
;

Curig 10s.; pony There is a distinct and easy bridle-path all

5s.).
the way to the top. During the season the ascent is sometimes
made by hundreds of persons in one day. Most walkers will easily
outstrip the slow-moving ponies.
Weleave the high-road by the lane opposite the Victoria Hotel (comp.
p. 314) which ascends through wood to the left of the stream and the
,

Ceunant Mawr (p. 315). Soon after quitting the wood the path turns,

sharply to the left and ascends the ridge. The route beyond this can
hardly be mistaken. On the other side of the valley we see the palh
leading to the Snowdon Banger (see p. 315). In front the summit is seen
towering to the right of Crib-y-Ddysgyl, while the retrospect includes the
sea and the island of Anglesey. About 3 M. from Llanberia, at a height
of about 2000 ft., we reach a Refrethmenl Hut. A few hundred yards to
the right is the Llyn Dd'u'r Arddu. Beyond the hut the path turns to the
left and becomes steeper (fine views). It then ascends to the right, and
beyond a ruined hut and spring of fresh water it is joined on the right
by the Snowdon Ranger track and on the left (80 yds. farther on) by the
path from Pen-y-Gwryd (p. 316). A stiff climb of '/* hr. more brings us
to the huts at the summit. If strength permit, the traveller should di-
verge to the left before reaching the spring and ascend to the top of Crib-
y-Ddysgyl (p. 319), for the sake of the fine "View into the abysses of Cwm
Glas (p. 316). View from the summit, see p. 320.
Ascent op Snowdon prom Capel Curig, 9 M., in S 1^-^ 1 ^ hrs.
(from Pen-y-Gwryd or Pen-y-Pass 2-3 hrs.). Ponies may be ob-
tained at Capel Curig (10s.) or at (4 M.) Pen-y-Gwryd (5s.), guides
at Pen-y-Gwryd or Pen-y-Pass (5s.). Tourists may also drive from
Capel Curig to (5 M.) Oorphwysfa {Pen-y-Pass ; 1200 ft.), where
the actual ascent begins (see p. 316).
The track diverges to the left from the road a few yards on this side
of the Pen-y-Pass Inn and ascends gradually round an offshoot of Crib
,

Goch. After about 1 M. we pass the tiny Llyn Teyrn on the left , with
some deserted cottages, and V2 M. farther on reach Llyn Llydaw (1500 ft.),
a fine sheet of water, upwards of 1 M. long, overhung by black and rugged
cliffs. Our route crosses the lake by stepping-stones near its E. end (often
under water in wet weather) and then runs to the left along the N. bank.
[A footpath, diverging from the pony-track not far from the road, ascends
rapidly at a higher level, under the peaks of Crib Goch and Crib-y-
Ddysgyl, rejoining the pony- track at the upper part of the zigzag men-
tioned below] In about 10 min. the track turns to the right and ascends
through the Cwm Dyli (splendid view of Y Wyddfa in front) to the small
tarn oi'Glaslyn (2000 ft.), lying at the foot of a precipice descending sheer
from the summit of the mountain. From Glaslyn we ascend by a rough
zigzag path, and after a stiff climb of '/z- 3/* hr. join the Llanberis route
at the top of the ridge (see above). Hence to the top 1 /i hr.
Ascent of Snowdon from Beddgelert, 672 M. , in 3-4 hrs.
guide 7s. 6d., pony 7s. 6d.; from Pont Rhyd-Bdu, 31/2 M., in iy 2 -2
hrs.(guide 5s.). These two routes unite very soon after leaving the
high-road, and the best plan for visitors at Beddgelert is to drive
to Pont Rhyd-Ddu (omn. daily) and begin the ascent there. The
distant views of sea and lake and mountain are very fine.
From Beddgelert (p. 317) we follow the Carnarvon road to a point a
Baedekeb's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 21
322 Route 40. SNOWDON. Ascents.

few yards short of (2 3/4 M.) PitVs Head (p. 317), where we ascend to the
right past a farm-house (Ffridd-Uchaf) and across a grassy slope with a
hollow to the right. Wejoin the Pont Rhyd-Ddu track about 3/4 M. from
the road. — From Pont Rhyd-Ddu (p. 317) we start from the road crossing
the railway a little to the N. of the station , and follow a cart-track
leading to a slate-quarry until it joins the P/4 M.) Beddgelert route, where
we ascend to the left. —After crossing the cart-track from Pont Bhyd-
Ddu, the path, which is rather ill-defined at places, bends slightly to the
right , crosses some rough ground , and passes through a wall near a
sheepfold. We then go straight across the field and soon pass a small
cairn , marking the spot where a tourist died from exhaustion in the
snow. Fine view of Lake Cwellyn, Moel Hehog, Mynydd Mawr, the sea,
Carnarvon, and Anglesey. A few yards farther on, the path leads through
a wall, near a spring, bends round, and passes again through the wall.
We are now on the shoulder of Llechog, from which we have a fine view
into Cwm y Clogwyn (to the left), with its four small tarns. The Nantlle
lakes (p. 292) are in sight to the W., between Mynydd Mawr and Y Gam,
while the summit of Snowdon rises beyond the cwm. The path along
the shoulders is well marked (fine views). Farther on, it bends to the left
and ascends to the narrow ridge of 'Bwlch-y-ifaen, from which the cliffs
descend almost perpendicularly on either side; the fine hollow to the right
is the Cwm-y-Llcm. Persons subject to giddiness may find this part of the
jiscent a little trying, but the path is quite safe and is constantly tra-
versed by ponies. A short hut stiff climb now brings us to the top.
Ascent op Snowdon from the Snowdon Ranger (4 M. , in
IV2-2V4 nl s, guide 7s. 6d., pony 7s. 6d.).
'

>

From the Snowdon Eanger Inn to (20-25 min.) the point where the
route to Llanberis diverges to the see p. 315. The Snowdon path
left ,

leads straight on, and though it is sometimes indistinct, the general

line towards the summit can scarcely be missed. By keeping well up the
hill we avoid the marshy ground to the west. In about 1 hr. from the
start we pass Llyn F/ynnon-y-Owas on the right and begin the steep part
of the ascent, which zigzags up the shoulder of Clogwyn Dv?r Arddu, with
the hollow of Cwm Clogwyn to the right. Farther up the path becomes
very stony, and by diverging a few yards to the left we can look down
upon the tiny Llyn Du'r Arddu (p. 321). The views from the latter part
of the route, which joins the Llanberis track '/4 hr. from the summit,
are very fine. Either this route or that from Pont Rhyd-Ddu is recom-
mended as a descent fori* those who wish to reach Carnarvon.
Any of the above-described routes may he chosen for descending, and
the directions given for the ascent will be found available for the de-
scent. A good alternative descent to Beddgelert is the following. At the
lower end of the Bwlch-y-Maen (see above), instead of turning to the
ri^hl along the Llechog shoulder, we keep to the left in the direction of
the summit of Yr Aran (2800 ft.), the S.- outpost of Snowdon. From the
Bwlch-Cwm-y-Llan we'may now descend through the Cwm-y-Llan (see p. 320),
passing some mines, to the road through Nant Gwynant (p. 318), which
we reach 1/2 M. to the S. of Llyn Gwynant. (To Pen-y-Gwryd, see p. 318.)
Or we may proceed, to the top of Yr Aran and descend on the other side
direct to Beddgelert (p. 317).

41. From Chester to Birkenhead "and Liverpool.

IGV2 M. Railway (joint l. N. W. and G.tW. line) in 3/4 -l hr., includ-
ing'the steam-ferry' across the Mersey (fares 2s. Id., 2s. id., is. bd.}.
The line traverses^the'peninsula between the estuaries of the
Dee and the Mersey, commanding fine views of both. From (8 M.)
Hooton branch-lines diverge on the one side to Parkgate and West
Kirhy (a sea-bathing resort on the Dee), and on the other to Helsby
 LIVERPOOL. 41. Route. 323

(for "Warrington and Manchester). —

9*^ M. Brorriborough. A
little to the N. is Eastham Ferry (Ferry Hotel), whence steameTs
ply on the Mersey to Liverpool. The works of the Manchester Ship
Canal (p. 339), which enters the Mersey here, include three large
locks, 600, 450, and 150 ft. long. The outer gates weigh nearly
300 tons apiece. — HV2 M. Spital, so named from an old hospital
for lepers. 13 M. Bebington, with a church of the time of Henry VIII.
The suhurhs of Liverpool now come into sight beyond the Mersey.
— 14 M. Bock Ferry, with frequent steamer-communication with
Liverpool. — A little farther on, the train enters the spacious
Joint Station at Birkenhead.
15^2 M. Birkenhead (Queen's; Woodside), a busy seaport of
modern origin, with 83,324 inhab., on the left bank of the Mersey,
which is here 8/4 M. wide, practically forms an outlying part of Liver-
pool, and is connected with it by the Mersey Tunnel and several
steam-ferries. At the beginning of this century the site of Bir-
kenhead was occupied by a hamlet with scarcely 100 inhab., which
had sprung up round the old Priory ofByrkhed, founded in the
11th cent.; the ruined priory-church of St. Mary, built in 1150,
stands near the river, in the graveyard of the modern church.
The "Docks of Birkenhead cover an area of 170 acres , the largest
being the Great Float, with a surface of 120 acres and a minimum depth
of 20 ft. The two landing-stages are 800 ft. and 350 ft. long respectively,
the Quays have a joint length of over 10 M.. and there are numerous
large ship-building Wharfs. The celebrated Alabama was built here in
1862 by the Messrs. Laird, whose huge ship-building establishment con-
tributes largely to the importance of the town. —
Among the most pro-
minent buildings are the Town Ball; the large Market; and St. Aidant
College, in the suburb of Claughton, for Anglican students. In the middle
of the town is Hamilton Square, surrounded with handsome buildings and
adorned with a Statue of John Laird. On the N.W. side of the town
(tramway) is 'Birkenhead Park (rail, stat., see p. 330), 180 acres in extent,
laid out by Sir Joseph Paxton, the designer of the Crystal Palace at
Sydenham, and adorned with several small lakes.
From Birkenhead to New Brighton, Hoylahe, and West Kirby, see p. 330.
Through-passengers for Liverpool are carried by the train down
to Woodside Ferry , whence a steamer conveys them across the
Mersey to the Landing Stage (PI. A, 3) in Liverpool. It is in-
tended ultimately to run the train on to Liverpool through the
Mersey Tunnel, which is at present used for local traffic only.
Liverpool. — Eailway Stations. 1. Lime Street Station (PI. D, 4), in
the heart of the town, for the main L. K. W. service to London Man- ,

chester, Edinburgh, Glasgow, etc. —

2. Exchange Station (PI. B, 3), a hand-
some building, for trains to Manchester, Lancashire, Yorkshire, and Scot-
land. — 3. Central or Ranelagh Street Station (PI. D, 5), for the Cheshire Lines,
Or. N. R., Midland, and Manchester, Sheffield, & Lincolnshire Co. (to Sheffield,
London, Manchester, Derbyshire, Lincoln, etc.). —
4. Woodside Station,
in Birkenhead (see above), for the Gt. W. and L.N.W. trains to Chester,
Birmingham, Warwick, London, and Wales. —
6. Mersey Tunnel Station
(PI. B, 4), James St., for local trains to Birkenhead, New Brighton,
Hoylake, and West Kirby. —
Cab from the Lime St. or the Central Station
to any of the undernoted hotels, Is.
Hotels. 'Adelphi (PI. a; D, 4), at the head of Ranelagh St., near the
Central Station, R. & A. 4s. -7*. 6<f., D. 3-6s.; *Nokth Western Hotel
21*
 ;;

324 Route 11. LIVERPOOL. Steamers.

(PI. b; D, 4), at the Lime St. Station, K. & A. 4-6s., no table d'hote
^Lancashire and Yorkshire Hotel at the Exchange Station (PL B 3)
, ,

*
Grand (PI. c. ; D, 4), Imperial (PI. d; D, 4), Lime St., opposite the station
-Shaftesbury Temperance (PI. e ; D, 5), Mount Pleasant, E. & A. from 3s.
'Laurence's Temperance, 20 Clayton Sq. (PI. C, 4); Alexandra (PI. f_
B, 3), 51 Dale St. ; Compton (PI. g; C, 4), 39 Church St., commercial, R. &
A. 5s. Angel (PI. j ; B, 3), 22 Dale St., E. & A. is. 6<*.
;

Restaurants. "Beards Paw, 53 Lord St. ; Wilson, Castle St. ; Refreshment

Rooms at the Central, Lime St., and Exchange Stations, and at the Landing
Stage (PI. A, 3); also at the North Western, Adelphi, Grand, Alexandra,
Angel, and other hotels (see ahove). —
Sainsbwy's (Andersons) Luncheon
Rooms, Exchange St. East, are crowded at midday by business men, and
form one of the characteristic sights of Liverpool.
Cabs. For any distance not exceeding 1 M., Is. ; for each additional
1
/2 M., 6d. By time, 6d. per l k hr. These fares include 200Z&S. of luggage
on a four-wheeled cab, and lOOHis. on a hansom. Between midnight and
6 a.m. a fare and a half. Fares for two-horse cabs about double.
Tramways run through most of the principal streets and to the various
suburbs. The chief starting-point is the Pier Head (PI. A, 3). — Omnibuses
along the Docks, see p. 329.
Steamers. A. Eiver Steamers, starting from the S. end of the Land-
ing Stage (PI. A, 3), ply to Birkenhead (Woodside; every few min. fare ;

id.; between midnight and 3.30 a.m., Gd.), Bgremont {Id.), Eastham
(p. 323; id.), New Brighton (p. 331; 3d.), New Ferry (2d.), Rock Ferry
(p. 323; 2d.), Seacombe (id.), Tranmere (id.). The Birkenhead steam-ferries,
before the opening of the tunnel, conveyed about 20 millions of passengers
annually. —
B. Sea-Going Steamers ply to Llandudno, Bangor, and Beau-
maris, daily in summer, in 4hrs. ; to Penzance, Falmouth, and Plymouth, at
irregular intervals (fares 25s., 15s.); to Milford and Bristol in 28 hrs. (12s.
Gd., 6*.); to the Isle of Man, see p. 340; to Dublin, daily (fare 8s.-13s.
Gd. ; deck 3-5s.) to Glasgow several times a week in 20 hrs. (12s. (id, 6s.);
;

and to various Continental ports. — The American Liners, or rather their

tenders, also start chiefly from the N. end of the Landing Stage. Other
steamers leave Liverpool at more or less regular intervals for Egypt,
India, South America, and indeed for almost every part of the globe.
Shipping and Forwarding Agents. United States Express Co. (Wheatley
& Co.), 10 North John Street; Pitt & Scott, Corf's Buildings, Preeson's
Eow. See also p. 330. —
Steamer Chairs may be obtained at Bidston'i,
Copperas Hill (opposite Adelphi Hotel) and 21 Lime St.; also from hawkers
on board the steamers.
Theatres. Shakespeare (PI. E 3) Fraser St.
, , , London Road ; Court
(PI. D, 4), Queen Sq.; Alexandra (PI. D, 3, 4), Lime St.; Prince of Wales
(PI. C, 4), stalls 5s dress circle 4s.; Gaiety, Camden St.; Bijou (PI. D, 5),
,

Bold St. Grand (PI. C, 4), Paradise St., stalls 2s.; Rotunda, Scotland Eoad;
;

Royal, Argyle St., Birkenhead.

Music and Concert Halls. Star Music Ball (PI. C, 4), Williamson Sq.
Philharmonic Hall (PI. E, 6), Hope St., with room for 2500 persons;
St. Jameses Hall, Lime St. ; Sefton Hall, Park Eoad. — Hengler's Circus,
West Derby Eoad. —
Organ Recitals in St. George's Hall (p. 326), on Thurs.
at 3 p.m. and on Sat. at 3 and 8 p.m. (adm. 6<Z. ; on Sat. evening id.).
Baths. George's Public Baths (PI. A, 4), belonging to the Corporation,
adjoining the Landing Stage, with salt-water, swimming, and other baths
Corporation Baths also in Cornwallis St., Lodge Lane, Margaret St., and
Steble St. (bath b'd.-ls.) Turkish Baths, Mulberry St., Duke St., and Werle St.
;

General Post Office (PI. B, 5), in the Eevenue Buildings.

United States Consul, Thomas H. Sherman, Esq., 26 Chapel St.
Principal Attractions. The "Bocks (p. 329); St. George's Hall (p. 326);
the Exchange and Town Hall (p. 327); Revenue Buildings (p. 327);
Prince's and Sefton Parks (p. 328); a river-excursion to Birkenhead (p. 323)
and New Brighton (p. 330), or upstream to Eastham (p. 323). — To gain
some idea of the characteristic feature of the city the visitor is advised
to drive from one end of the Docks to the other (6V2 M. ;fare id.) on
the top of an omnibus (p. 329), which affords the best views.
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 History. LIVERPOOL. 41. Route. 325
Liverpool, the second city and principal seaport of England, is
situated on a sloping site on the right bank of the estuary of the
Mersey, about 3 M. from the open sea, and in 1881 contained
552,425 inhab. (with the suburbs 740,000), including about 150,000
Roman Catholics and many Welsh and Irish. It is also the seat of a
bishopric, created in 1880. Opposite Liverpool the Mersey is about
1 M. wide, but above the city it expands and forms a basin 3 M.
across. Its mouth, which is strongly fortified, is partly closed by
large sandbanks, leaving two channels, the Queen's and the Formby,
for the entrance of vessels. The highest ground in the city is about
250 ft. above the sea. Owing mainly to its magnificent river and
imposing series of docks, Liverpool makes a more pleasing impres-
sion than Manchester and many other large towns. The group of
buildings round St. George's Hall has few equals in the country.
History. The name of Liverpool is popularly derived from an
extinct bird, the Liver, which once haunted the Mersey and is still sup-
posed to figure in the town-arms; but a more probable etymology con-
nects it with the Welsh Llyvrpwl, 'the expanse of the pool'. The name
of the manor of Liverpul first occurs in a charter (1207) of King John,
who built a castle and founded a town here. The growth of the town
during the following centuries was slow. For the siege of Calais in
1338 it furnished but one small bark with six men, and even in the reign
of Elizabeth (1565) it possessed only 12 ships and contained only 138 house-
holders. From 1588 to 1592 the borough of Liverpool was represented in
Parliament by Sir Francis Bacon. In the Civil War Liverpool sided wiih
the Parliamentarians, and with the aid of hastily thrown-up fortifications
held out against Prince Rupert in 1644 for three weeks. The beginning
of its commercial importance may be dated from the Restoration, and
the first dock was constructed in 1709. At this time the little town
contained about 5000 inhab., a number that increased to 12,000 in 1730,
to 26,000 in 1760, and to 77,700 in 1801, while during the present century
its growth has been extraordinarily rapid. In 1723 it already possessed a
trading fleet of 131 vessels. The most lucrative occupation of the Liver-
pool shippers was long the nefarious traffic in negro slaves with the
Spanish Main, in which it was the first English town to engage. With
this was conjoined a smuggling trade in various English manufactures,
and in the rum, sugar, and tobacco of the Spanish colonies. About 1840
regular steam-communication was opened between Liverpool and New York,
and this may be said to have established the modern pre-eminence of Liver-
pool. The importation of raw cotton from the United States forms the great
staple of its commerce, while it also carries on a large trade with Ireland
(cattle, butter, and other provisions), Canada (timber), India, Africa,
Australia (grain), China, the West Indies, and South America. The exports
consist chiefly of manufactured articles, including a large quantity of the
cotton goods made in the Manchester district, but the coal and salt of Wales
and Cheshire also figure largely. The total value of the exports in
1889 was 115 3/4 millions sterling, of the imports 111 millions, as compared
with 88 and 144 3/4 millions at London (see also p. 329). The commercial
fleet of British vessels belonging to the port at the beginning of 1890 con-
sisted of 935 steamers and 1378 sailing vessels, with a joint burden of
1,881,862 tons. This is larger than the registered tonnage of either London
or Glasgow. The principal industries of Liverpool are ship -building,
sugar-refining, iron and steel-working, rope-making, and the manufacture
of chemicals. The distinguished natives of Liverpool include the Right
Hon. W.E. Gladstone (b. 1809; see p. 328), whose father, Sir John Glad-
stone, was a prominent Liverpool merchant; Mrs. He mans (1793-1835),
William Roscoe (1753-1831) , and Mrs. Oliphant. Nathaniel Hawthorne was
U. S. consul at Liverpool from 1853 to 1857; his office was in Brunswick
326 Route 41. LIVERPOOL. St. George's Hall.

St. (PI. B, 4; coinp. p. 328). Comp. Sir J. A. Picton's 'Memorials of Liver-

pool' (1875).
Immediately opposite Lime Street Station stands *St. George's
Hall (PI. D, 3, 4), the finest architectural feature of Liverpool,
erected in 1838-54, at a cost of 300,000?., from the designs of
H. Elm.es. It is in the form of a Graeco-Roman temple 600 ft. ,

long and 170 ft. wide and consists of a large central block with
,

two wings. On the E. facade is a fine Corinthian colonnade with

16 columns, and at the S. end is a similar portico, the tympanum
above which contains emblematical sculptures (commerce, art,
etc.). The N. end is semicircular. The W. facade with its pil- ,

asters and windows, is the least satisfactory of the four.

The "Great Hall, 170 ft. long, 90 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high, is finely
decorated and is used for public meetings, concerts, etc. The organ is
one of the largest in the world (recitals, see p. 324). The hall contains
several statues of local and other celebrities, and has a handsome mosaic
pavement (boarded over). The arched roof is of stone. The wings to
the N. and S. of the hall are occupied by the Courts of Assize. Over the N.
vestibule is the Small Concert Ball, in elliptical form. The rest of the
building is devoted to public offices.
Opposite the E. facade of St. George's Hall are equestrian sta-
tues ofQueen Victoria and the late Prince Consort, by Thornycroft,
between which is one of the Earl of Beaconsfield. To the N. of St.
George's Hall, rises the Wellington Monument, a column 115 ft.
high, surmounted by a colossal statue. Adjacent, to the N. of the
Railway Station, is the Alexandra Theatre (PI. D, 3, 4).
To the N. of St. George's Hall is an imposing group of buildings
in the Grecian style (PI. D, 3). The edifice to the right, with a
Corinthian portico is the County Sessions House.
, —
This is ad-
joined by the Walker Fine Art Gallery (daily 10 till dusk),
,

erected in 1877 by Sir Andrew B. "Walker, and containing a good

collection of modern paintings including *Dante's Dream , by
,

Rossetti. Annual exhibitions of art are held here. —

The circular
building next the gallery is the Picton Reading Room, with a re-
ference-library of 70,000 volumes. —
To the left of the Picton
Reading Room is the Free Public Library and Museum, erected in
1860 expense of Sir Wm. Brown.
at the
comprises a well-stocked Library of 80,000 vols. (10-10; on Frid. 10-2),
It
spacious Reading Rooms, and a Museum (Mon., Wed., Thurs., & Sat., 10 till
dusk). The chief attractions of the last are the zoological collection
presented by the late Earl of Derby, and the Egyptian, Anglo-Saxon,
and other antiquities given by Mr. Mayer.
At
the back (W.) of St. George's Hall is St. John's Church (PI. I),
3), apoor building which is to be replaced by the proposed cathedral.
From the N.W. corner of the square, Dale Street (PI. B, C, 3),
a well-built street with good shops and several important public
buildings, leads to the S.W. towards the Docks. A little way down
this street, on the left, are the Municipal Offices (PL C, 3), a huge
edifice in a mixed style, erected in 1860 at a cost of 100,000/., with
a tower '210 ft. high. Opposite is the Central Police Court (PI. C, 3).
 Revenue Buildings. LIVERPOOL. 41. Route. 327
At the back of the Municipal Offices, facing Victoria St., are the
County Court and Stamp Office (PI. C, 3).
Farther on are the Conservative Club (left) , the Junior Reform
Club (left), and the Reform Club (right). At the end of the street, to
the right, rises the *Town Hall (PI. B, 3), the oldest public build-
ing in Liverpool , erected in 1754 by Wood , the architect of the
terraces at Bath. It is a rectangular structure in the Corinthian
style, surmounted by a lofty dome. The portico was added about
1804. The building, which includes the official business and
reception rooms of the Mayor, contains a statue of Canning, by
Chantrey, and some portraits by Lawrence.
The Town Hall forms one side of a quadrangle, the other sides
of which are occupied by the Exchange (PI. B, 3), a large building
in the French Renaissance style by Wyatt, erected in 1864 et seq.
at a cost of 220,000J. The main front faces Tithebarn St.
The pediment in the centre of the N. side ia adorned, on the face turned
towards the quadrangle, with an allegorical group of sculpture; and on
the parapet are statues of Columbus Drake
, , Mercator Raleigh, Cook,
,

and Galileo. In the centre of the quadrangle is a bronze statue of Nelson.

The fine News Room in the W. wing is 175 ft. long, 90 ft. wide, and 50 ft.
high. The cotton-brokers, however, prefer to transact most of [their
business on the 'Flags' of the quadrangle instead of under cover. This is
one of the 'sights' of Liverpool. The busiest hours are 12-1 and 2-4.
A little to the N. of the Exchange, in Tithebarn St., is the Exchange
Station (PI. B, 3; p. 323).— From the Exchange Chapel Street leads to the
Docks (p. 329), passing the church of St. Nicholas (PI. A, 3), the patron
saint of mariners. This church was the first founded in Liverpool, of
which it was the original parish-church; the present building, however,
dates only from last cent., while the tower, with its lantern, was erected
in 1815 on the fall of an older one.
From the town-hall, Water Street (Pl.B, 3), containing the offices
of the Cunard and several other steamboat-companies, leads S.W.
to the Docks, while the busy Castle Street, the 'embodiment of
Liverpool's character and the centre of its system', leads to the S.E.,
passing St. George's Church (PI. B, 4), erected on the site of King
John's castle (p. 325). Castle St. ends in Canning Place, in which
are the Revenue Buildings (PL B, 5), a huge and heavy pile in the
Ionic style, with a central dome, occupying the site of the first
Liverpool dock, and comprising the Custom House, Post Office,
Inland Revenue Office, and Dock Board. In front of the N. side is
a Statue of Huskisson (1770-1830), the free-trader, member of
parliament for Liverpool (see p. 332). — Opposite the E. end of the
custom-house is the Sailors' Home (PI. B, 5), in an Elizabethan style.
A little to the N. of the Sailors' Home, in School Lane, is the Blue-
coat Hospital (PI. C, 4), erected in 1717, an institution similar to the well-
known Christ's Hospital in London. Opposite the school is St. Peter's
Church (PI. C, 4), at present the pro-cathedral of the new diocese of
Liverpool (services on Sun. at 3 p. m. and on week-days at 5 p. m.). —
In Eliot Street, a little to the W. of the Central Station (PI. D, 5; p. 323),
is St. John's Market (PI. C, D, 4), the chief provision-market of Liverpool,
a huge covered structure 560 ft. long.
At the end of Hanover St., near the Sailors' Home (see above),
begins Duke Street (PI. C, 5), which we may now follow towards
328 Route 41. LIVERPOOL. Sefton Park.

the S.E. It was in this street (No. 32) that Mrs. Hemans was born;
and Hawthorne's 'Mrs. Blodgett' lived at No. 153. Kent Street, the
fifth cross-street to the right, leads to an open space containing
St. Michael's Church (PL C, 6), with a good Grecian portico and the
highest spire in Liverpool. Opposite Kent St. diverges Colquitt
Street, in which stands the Royal Institution (PL D, 6), founded
mainly through the exertions of William Boscoe (d. 1831 ; p. 325),
the author of the lives of Lorenzo de' Medici and Leo X. Opposite
is a Gallery of Art, containing early Italian, Flemish, and German
paintings, and casts of the vEgina marbles and other Greek sculptures.
Among the paintings which are more interesting to the student of
,

art than to the ordinary visitor, the following may be mentioned Filippo
:

Lippi, Birth of the Virgin Simone Memmi, Christ with the Doctors of the
;

Temple Roger van der Weyden, Descent from the Cross ; Holbein, Pro-
;

digal Son; cartoons by Romney and Gibson (Falling Angels); a striking

sketch by Tintoretto. The statue of Roscoe is by Chantrey. —
Adjoining
is the Royal Institution School, the oldest school in Liverpool.
Colquitt Street ends at Bold Street, with many of the best shops.
Here we may proceed to the left to Ranelagh Street and the Central
Station (p. 323), passing at the foot of Bold Street, to the right, the
Lyceum (PI. C, 5), with a library of 70,000 vols, and a fine reading-
room. If we turn to the right on reaching Bold St. we soon come to
St. Lnke's Church (PI. D, 6), a handsome modern Gothic structure,
built in 1811-31 and occupying a fine elevated site.
From this point Renshaw St. (PI. D, 5) leads back to Lime St.
(p. 326), passing the Unitarian Chapel in which Roscoe (d. 1831)
is interred. Leece St. ascends to Rodney Street (PI. D, 5, 6), at
No. 62 in which W. E. Gladstone was born in 1809. —
Following
Hope Street towards theS., we pass a handsome Unitarian Church
(PI. E, 6) and the end of Mount Street, in which stands the Liver-
pool Institute (PI. D, 6) originally established as a Mechanics'
,

Institute but now used as a high school. It is adjoined by the

,

Government School of Art. —

Hope St. ends at *St. James's Cemetery
(PL D, 7) picturesquely laid out in an old quarry and containing
,

the mausoleum of Huskisson (p. 327), with a statue by Gibson.

The S. end of St. James's Cemetery is skirted by Upper Parliament
Street, from which, opposite Catharine St. (PI. E, 7), diverges Prince's
Road, a boulevard containing the Greek Church (in a Byzantine style), the
Church of St. Margaret (with an elaborately-decorated interior), a Synagogue
(in a Moorish style), and the Welsh Presbyterian Church (Gothic). Prince's
1'^oad ends at (7z M.) Prince's Park, 40 acres in extent.
At Streatlam Towers, between St. Margaret's and the Synagogue, is the
'Bowes Museum of Japanese Art, formed by Mr. J. L. Bowes, Hon. Con-
sul for Japan, and probably the most comprehensive and valuable collec-
tion of the kind in the world, Japan itself not excluded (Sat., 2.30 to
5.30 free on other days, 2-4, by tickets obtained at the Japanese Consulate,
;

11 Dale St., Is. each; proceeds devoted to charity). The contents in-
clude paintings (8-19th cent.) lacquer ware (10-19th cent. ; *Cabinet by
,

Tokugawa Shogun), wrought -iron work, bronzes, pottery, cloisonne

enamels, wood and ivory carvings, embroideries, crystals, weapons, etc.
To the N.W. of Prince's Park is "Sefton Park, with an area of 400
acres purchased and laid, out by the Corporation at a cost of 410,000!.
,

From the park we may return to the centre of the town by tramway. —
 Docks. LIVERPOOL. 41. Route. 329
The Church of SS. Matthew and James, on Mossley Hill, overlooking
Sefton Park, is a handsome red building, with a fine tower.
Starting again from Lime St. we may now follow the London
Road towards the E., passing the (4 min.) Statue of George III.
(PL E, 4). On reaching Moss Street we follow it to the left (W.) to
Shaw Street, which is perhaps the most regularly-built street in
Liverpool. Immediately to the right rises Liverpool College, a large
and handsome school for boys , in the Tudor style , by Elmes
(p. 326). In Salisbury St., to the S. of Shaw St., is the large Ro-
man Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier.
From Moss St. (p. 328) Daulby Street and Pembroke Place,
passing the Royal Infirmary (rebuilt at a cost of 75,000f.), lead S.
to Ashton Street, which contains the old buildings of Liverpool
University College , incorporated in 1881 and constituted one of
the colleges of Victoria University (comp. p. 338) in 1884. The
main part of the new Victoria Buildings of the college lie to the
right, in Brownlow Hill, and consist of the Arts section and office,
the Victoria Jubilee Tower (erected by the people of Liverpool in
commemoration of Queen Victoria's jubilee) the library, and the
,

engineering laboratories, built, fitted up, and presented to the

town by Sir A. Walker. The chemical laboratories (abutting on
Brownlow St.; PL E, 5) are excellently fitted up. To the W. is the
Medical School. —
We next enter Mount Pleasant (PL E, 5), which
brings us back with a semicircular sweep to Lime Street. On the
right we pass the large Workhouse (PL E, 5; with room for 4000
inmates) and on the left the Medical Institution, the Convent of
Notre Dame, and the Young Mens Christian Association.
The Botanic Gardens are in Wavertree Park (pron. 'Wartree'), '/* "•
to the E. —
To the N. extends the district of Everton, formerly a subur-
ban village. It is largely inhabited by Welsh people. 'Everton Toffee''
may still be purchased at one of the cottages near Everton Brow, where
it was originally made.
To the N. E. of the city lies Stanley Park (reached by tramway, p.
324), laid out by the Corporation at a cost of 150,000*., and command-
ing fine views of the Welsh and the Cumbrian Mts. — To the E. is News-
ham Park, with the Seamen's Orphanage (tramway). Adjacent is the large
Cattle Market. — The Ancient Chapel of Toxteth Park, on the S. side of
the town, was the scene of the ministrations of Richard Mather, father
of Increase Mather, and grandfather of Cotton Mather, of Massachusetts.
The most characteristic and interesting of the sights of Liver-
pool however, consists in its *Docks, which flank the Mersey for
,

a distance of 6-7 M. There are now in all upwards of 50 docks and

basins with a total water-area of 370 acres and 24 M. of quays.
,

The docks of Birkenhead (see p. 323) are under the same manage-
ment (Mersey Docks and Harbour Board), and are reckoned as belonging
to the harbour of Liverpool. The amount of dock-dues received in the
year ending July 1st, 1890, was l,110,057j. , paid by 23,633 vessels of
9,654,006 tons. —A. line of tram-omnibuses (p. 324; fare 2d.) traverse.?
the whole of the streets skirting the Docks, affording easy access to any
particular point.
The row of docks is interrupted near its centre by the principal
"Landing Stage (PL A, 3) for steamers, consisting of a huge pon-
330 Route 41. LIVERPOOL. Docks.

toon or floating quay 2060 ft. long, connected with the shore by
,

eight bridges. The predecessor of this stage was destroyed by fire

in 1874, just when it was about to be opened, after an outlay of
400,000t. ; but its reconstruction was begun at once and finished
in 1878. 'Sea-going steamers start from the N. end of this pier,
known as Prince's, while the river ferry-boats ply from George's,
or the S. end. The open space opposite the principal approach to
the Landing Stage is known as the Pier Head (PI. A, 3), and is a
busy terminus of numerous omnibus and tramway lines.
Cabin-passengers by the Transatlantic steamers are generally landed
by tenders at the N. end of the Landing Stage, but sometimes at the
Alexandra Dock. Their baggageMs conveyed by machinery to a Customs
Examining Hall on shore, where licensed porters are in waiting to carry
it to the cabs (each trunk 6d., smaller articles 3d.). Agents of the prin-
cipal railway companies meet the steamers at the Dock'or Landing Stage,
and baggage may be 'checked' to any station on their systems at a charge
of 2*. per package. Comp. p. 324 and p. xix.
The following^ are the principal docks, named from N. to S. The
.

Hornby Dock was opened;,in';1885. Next to it is the Alexandra Dock, the

largest of all, with a water-area of 44 acres. Most of the large Transat-
lantic 'liners' now dock here (apply to steward; fee), and it is also ex-
tensively used by grain-laden vessels. The ingenious arrangements for
conveying the grain from the docks to the huge storehouses, '/4 M. distant,
by means of endless revolving belts in subways, are extremely interesting;
as are also the similar contrivances for distributing the grain at the store-
houses, which are on the 'silo' system. The visitor should apply for an
order to see the warehouses at the office of the Liverpool Grain Storage U
Transit Co., Fenwiek St. (PI. B, 3, 4). — The Langton Dock (21 acres)
was constructed, like the Alexandra, to enable vessels of the largest size
to enter without discharging cargo, as was formerly necessary at neap
tides. The Canada Dock, used by vessels trading in timber, and the fol-
lowing three docks, Huskisson (timber), Sandon (with several graving-
docks), and Wellington, are also on a large scale and can accommodate
vessels of the largest size. A little farther up the river is Salisbury Dock,
with a clock-tower, which is illuminated at night. The Victoria Dock
(PI. A, 1) is used by emigrant-ships. Waterloo Dock (PI. A, 1) is partly
surrounded with huge Corn Warehouses, holding 200,000 qrs. of grain.
The arrangements for unloading resemble those at the Alexandra Dock
(admission on application to the Dock Board). Behind George's Dock (PI.
A, 3, 4) are the Goree Piazzas, No. 1 in which was the scene of a com-
mercial enterprise undertaken by Washington Irving. The experiment
proved disastrous, and the shock threw Irving into a lethargic condition,
one of the first signs of recovery from which was the composition of
'Rip van Winkle'. George's Dock is connected with Canning Dock (PI.
A, 4), the oldest now in existence, constructed in 1717. It lies opposite
the Custom House (p. 327). The Albert Dock (PI. A, 5), for E. Indiamen,
diners from most of the Liverpool docks in being completely surrounded
with warehouses (as in London). Adjoining King % t Dock (PI. A, 6) is the
Tobacco Warehouse, in which about 20,000 hogsheads of tobacco generally
lie in bond. The Queen's (PI. A, 7 ; Russian vessels), C'oburg, and Brunswick
Docks are also fine large basins. The last is adjoined by extensive ship-
building yards. The row of docks closes on the S. with the Toxteth,
Harrington, and Herculaneum Docks, the name of the last embalming the
memory of the once important Liverpool manufacture of pottery.
From Liverpool to Birkenhead, New Brighton, Hoylake, and West
Kikby, 9 M., railway in i/g hr. This line passes under the river by the
Mersey Tunnel ,a huge structure resembling the Thames Tunnel in
London, begun in 1880, anil opened for traffic in 1880. It is about 1 M.
in length, and is at present used for local traffic only; though ultimately
to be connucled with the main railway - systems on both banks of the
 Environs. LIVERPOOL. 41. Route. 331

Mersey. The Liverpool Station is: in James St. (PI. B, 4). Lifts convey
passengers between the streets and the platforms. Trains run to Birken-
head (Hamilton Square, with passenger lifts; 3-4 min.) at frequent inter-
vals (fares 3d. , 272d. , 2d.). At Hamilton Square the line forks , the left
branch leading to Birkenhead Central and Green Lane and, to be prolonged
to join the L. N. W. E. and G. W. B. joint line at RockferryHp. 323).
The right branch goes on to (2'/2 M.) Birkenhead Park (p. 323), a where it
emerges from the tunnel, and (3 1/* il.)lBirkenhead Docks. ^ Here the line
again forks, one branch running to Wallasey, Warren, and (o*/2 M.) New
Brighton, the other to (8 M.) Hoylake and (9 M.) West Kirby (see p. 322). —
New Brighton^ Jfan'ne1
; Royal Ferry ; Mew Brighton; Queen's), a favourite
resort of 'trippers , lies on the Cheshire side of the Mersey, 5 M. to the
N.W. of Birkenhead. The Pier (Refreshmt. Rooms), 560 ft. long, affords
a fine view of the shipping and docks of Liverpool, the Irish Sea, and
the mountains of Wales. By the pier is a large Palace <& Winter Garden.
Near the end of the Promenade is the strongly-fortified Rock Battery.
i

Frequent steamers to (4 M.) Liverpool (see p. 324) ; also to Birkenhead. —

Hoylake, a small watering-place on the estuary of the Dee, is much fre-
quented by golfers, its links being among the best in England.
Among the other attractive river-excursions that may be made from
Liverpool are those to Seacombe (p. 324) and Eastham Ferry (p. 323). —
The most interesting of the numerous manor-houses near Liverpool is
Knowsley, the seat of the Earl of Derby, situated 5 M. to theN.E., in the
midst of a large park. The house contains paintings by Eubens, Rembrandt,
Teniers, Van de Velde, and Claude Lorrain, and a series of family-por-
traits, beginning with the first Earl of Derby, step-father of Henry VII.
— Ghildwall Hall, 3 M. to the E., with remains of an old priory, belongs
to the Marquis of Salisbury. — Croxteth Hall, the seat of the Earl of Sefton,
lies Sty* M. to the N.E. — Speke Hall, 7 M. to the S.E. of Liverpool, is
another interesting old manor-house.
From Liverpool to Preston, 26'/z M., railway in 3/4-l'/4 br. (fares
4s. 6d., 3s. bd., 2s. 5d.). We start from the Exchange Station. — The
train crosses the Leeds and Liverpool Canal twice and reaches (4 3/4 M.)
Aintree, where the Liverpool race-meetings take place. — ll'/i M. Ormskirk
( Wheatsheaf ; Talbot), a busy market-town with 6650 inhab. The 'Church,
with its huge embattled tower and spire, contains the burial-vault of the
Earls of Derby. In the vicinity are (3 M.) Scarisbrick Hall, (3 M.) Lathom
House (Earl of Lathom), and (2 M. to the N.) the scanty ruins of Burscough
Priory. — From (14 M.) Burscough lines diverge to Southport and Wigan
(p. 373).— At (26 l/2 M.) Preston we join the main L. N.W. line (p. 373).
From Liverpool to Southport, 18 M., railway in 3/4-lV2 hr. (fares 2s.,
— We
Is. 8d., Is. 3d.). start from the Exchange Station. 2'/2 M. Bootle,
a borough with about 30,000 inhab., at the mouth of the Mersey, is practi-
cally a suburb of Liverpool. 5 M. Waterloo is also a suburb of Liverpool,
with the villas of numerous Liverpool merchants. — 6 M. Blundellsands <fr
Crosby. The little watering-place of Crosby (Blundell Arms) lies 1 '/2 M. to
the W. of the station. In the neighbourhood is Ince Hall, with a large
collection of paintings and sculptures. — Near (11 M.) Formby are Altcar
Flats, where the 'Waterloo Coursing Meetings' are held. — 15 M. Ainsdale.
18 M. Southport ("Victoria; Prince of Wales; Royal; Queen's; Scaris-
brick Arms ; Pearjeanfs Temperance ; Palace ; Hydropathic ; numerous lodging-
houses) is a pleasant and handsomely-built modern watering-place with
32,000 inhab. , frequented annually by many thousands of visitors from Li-
verpool, Manchester, and the manufacturing towns of Yorkshire. The
broad sandy beach is fairly adapted for promenading and bathing, though
a huge expanse of wet sand is exposed at low tide. The Winter Garden
(concerts daily), which comprises a good Aquarium and a small Theatre,
the long Pier (with tramway), Kew Gardens, and the 'Botanic Gardens (3 M.
to the N.W.) attract numerous visitors. The Esplanade affords a fine view
of the Welsh and the Cumberland hills, while the Isle of Man is also visible
in clear weather. — Steamers ply regularly from Southport to Lytham
(p. 373) and Blackpool (p. 373). The railway goes on to Preston (p. 373).
From Liverpool to Manchester, see E. 42; to London, see E. 44.
 332

42. From Liverpool to Manchester.

a. From Liverpool to Manchester via Newton-le- Willows.
31 »/s 31- L.N.W. Railway in 3
li-l'/t hr. (fares 5s. 6d., is., 2j. 6d.).
This line, constructed in 1830 at a cost of 1,000,000*., is one of the oldest
of existing railways. The crucial part of the undertaking was the filling
up of Chat Moss, a huge and dangerous swamp, 12 sq.M. in extent and in
places 30 ft. deep. The accomplishment of this task and the success of this
railway were of the utmost importance in stimulating the extension of the
railway-system. The manufacturing district traversed is uninteresting.
After leaving Lime St. Station (p. 323) tlie train stops at
(i l /i M.) Edgehill, near the Botanic Garden (p. 329). From —
(ll'/2 M.) St. Helen's Junction a branch-line leads N. to St. Helen's
(Raoen), a town with 57,325 inhab. noted for its manufactures
,

of plate -glass, and thence to Rainford (p. 333) and Ormskirk

(p. 331), while another runs S. to Widnes and Runcorn (Royal Hotel),
the latter a river-port with 15,000 inhab., situated on the Mersey,
12 M. above Liverpool. —
15 M. Earlestown is the junction of a
line to Warrington (see below) and Chester (p. 269). At (16 M.) —
Newton-le- Willows we cross the main line of the L.N.W. Railway
from London to Carlisle and the North. At (16!/2 M.) Parkside Mr.
Huskisson was killed at the opening of the railway (comp. p. 327).
— 19'/2 M. Kenyon is the junction of a line to Bolton (p. 339).
Beyond (21 M.) Qlazebury fy Bury Lane the train crosses Chat Moss
(see above). At (2672 M.) Patricroft is the Iron Foundry established
by James Nasmyth, one of the largest in England. 27 /2 M. — l

Eccles (Cross Keys) prettily situated on the Irwell, is a favourite

,

residence of Manchestrians.
31 1 /-2 M. Manchester (Exchange Station), see p. 333.

b. From Liverpool to Manchester via Warrington and Glazebrook.

34 M. 'Cheshire Lines' Railway in 3/t-l 3/t hr. (fares 5s. 6d., is., 2s.
Gd.). As far as (25 M.) Glazebrook (see p. 333) this line coincides with the
main Liverpool and London line of the Midland Railway (see R. 44b).
We start from the Central Station in Ranelagh Street (p. 323).
The train then stops at (1 M.) St. James's and (272 M.) St. Michael's,
crosses Toxteth Park (p. 329), and reaches (37 2 M.) Otterspool. To
the right a view is enjoyed of the Mersey. 6^/2 M. Oarston (p. 345);
I274 M. Furnworth, the junction of a loop-line to Widnes.
I874 M. Warrington (Patten Arms ; Lion), a busy town on the
right bank of the Mersey, with 35,260 inhab. and manufactories
of cotton, iron, and glass. It is a place of considerable antiquity, and
is believed to have been a Roman station. The Parish Church, a fine
building in the Dec. style, has been restored. —
From Warrington rail-
ways radiate to Wigan (p. 373), Bolton (p. 339), Chester (p. 269), etc.
Beyond Warrington the line runs nearly parallel with the
celebrated 1>iiidgewatbr Canal (35 M. long), one of the oldest
in England, connecting Manchester and Liverpool.
The canal was constructed by lirindley for the Duke of Biidgewater
in 1758-71. The Unite sank all his capital in the undertaking, but ultim-
 MANCHESTER. 42. Route. 333

ately made a large fortune by the facilities it afforded for conveying the
produce of his large coal-fields to Manchester and Liverpool.
At (25 M.) Olazebrook the direct line to London diverges to the
right. —
34 M. Manchester (Central Station), see below.

c. From Liverpool to Manchester vid Atherton.

37 M. Lancashire and Toekshike RiiLWAY in 3/t-l 3
/i hr. (fares 5s.
6d., 4j., 2j. 6d.).
We from the Exchange Station (p. 323). The district tra-
start
versed uninteresting and most of the stations unimportant. 11 M.
is
Rainford is the junction of lines to Ormskirh (p. 331) and St. Helen's
(p. 332). Near Wigan (p. 373), which the Manchester line avoids
hy a loop, we ctoss the main L.N.W. line. A
little farther on the

direct Manchester line diverges to the right from that to Bolton

(p. 339). 26 M. Atherton; 29 M. Walkden; 34 M. Pendleton;
36 M. Salford. —
37 M. Manchester (Victoria Station), see below.

Manchester. —
Railway Stations. 1. Central Station (PI. E, 5), at
the corner of Windmill St. and Lower Mosley St., for the trains of the
Midland Railway and Cheshire Lines to London, Liverpool, Chester,
Buxton, Matlock, Derby, etc. —
2. London Road Station (PI. G, H, 5), for
the L.N.W. trains to London, Stafford, Birmingham, etc., and also for the
Sheffield & Lincolnshire Railway (in connection with the G.N.R.). —
3.
Exchange Station (PI. E, 2), on the N. side of the town, for the L.N.W.
trains to Liverpool, Leeds, Chester, Wales,' and Scotland, and G. W. B.
trains to Chester and Wales. —4. Victoria Station (PI. F, 2), adjoining
the last, for the Lancashire and Yorkshire lines to Liverpool Bolton,
,

Preston, Oldham, York, Leeds, Scarborough, etc. —5. Oxford Road Station
(PI. F, 6), for trains to Altrincham, etc. —In addition to these stations,
which are connected with each other by a loop-line, there are several
secondary or suburban stations at which the trains generally stop before
quitting Manchester. The chief of these is that at Salford (PI. D, 3).
— Single cab-fare (see below) from the stations to the hotels.
Hotels. •'Queen's (PI. a; G, 4), 2 Piccadilly, a long-established house
near the London Koad Station, R. <fe A. from 4s. 6d. ; 'Victoria (PI. b;
E, 3), Victoria St., R. & A. from 2*. 6d., table d'hote 3s. 6d. ; 'Grand
(PI. c H, 4), Aytoun St., with lift, R. & A. 4s.-5s. (id., table d'hote is. 6d.,
;

'pens'. 10s. 6d.-12s. 6d. ; Gkosvenor (PI. d; E, 3), Deansgate, R. & A from
it.; Albion (PI. e; G, 3), 21 Piccadilly, R. & A. from 4s. 6<2. ; Clarence
(PI. 0, Waterloo (PI. g), in Piccadilly (6 & 8, PI. G, 3, 4); Trevelyan
Temperance (PI. F, 3), 50 Corporation St., well spoken of, R. & A. 4s.;
Royal (PI. m; F, 3), 2 Mosley St.; the last six commercial.
Restaurants. Atlantic, 5 Cross St. (PI. E, 3, 4; entr. from Newmar-
ket), for men only ; Victoria, at the above named hotel (PI. E, 3) ; Parker,
18 St. Mary's Gate and 10 St. Ann's Sq. (PI. E, 3) ; Prince's Cafi, opposite
Prince's Theatre (PI. E, 5); Manchester Limited Restaurant Co.," under the
Exchange (PI. E, 3) ; Beresford's Luncheon Rooms, Market Place and Chapel
Walks; Royalty Luncheon Rooms, Princess St.; *Old Swan (German), Pool
St., Market St.; Continental, Peter Sq. —Refreshment Rooms at the stations.
Cabs. Per mile, 1-2 pers. 9d., 3-4 pers. Is. for each additional third
;

of a mile 3d. or id. By time for each l /i hr. 6d. or Vfed. For each
,

article of luggage carried outside 2d. Double fares from midnight to 7 a.m.
Complaints may be made at the Town Hall (p. 337).
Tramways. Manchester is covered with a network of tramways, tra-
versing the main streets and extending to all the suburbs (fares ld.-3d).
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. F, 3), corner of Market St. and Spring
Gardens. Numerous branch-offices and pillar letter-boxes.
Theatres. Royal (PI. E, 5), Peter St., stalls 6s., dress circle 6s., upper
334 Route 42. MANCHESTER. History.

circle 2s. Qd., pit is.; Prince's (PI. E, 5), Oxford St.; Comedy (PI. E, 4),
Peter St.. dress circle and stalls 5s.; Queen's (PI. K, 4), Bridge St., dress
circle 2s., pit 6d. ; «. James's (PI. F, 5), Oxford St.
Concerts. Concert Hall (PI. E,5), Peter St.; Salle's Concerts, Free Trade
Hall (PI. E, 4), every Thurs. in winter; Manchester Vocal Society's Con-
certs; De JongVs Concerts, Free Trade Hall, every second Sat.
Popular Resorts. "Bellevue Gardens, Longsight, to the S.E., with
•zoological collection, dancing-saloon, restaurant, fire-works, lake forhoating,
etc., much frequented by the lower classes. They may he reached by
tram or by train from London Road to Longsight. — Botanic Gardens,
Chester Road, Old Trafford, to the S.W. — Circus, Oxford St., and Peter
St. — Panorama (Trafalgar) , at the corner of Deansgate 'and Quay St.
(PI.E, 4; adm. Is.).
Baths. Herriolt's, 9 Stevenson Sq.,near the InfirmaryfPl.G, 4); JHj'son,
40 Hyde Road; Bartholomew, 112 Stockport Road; Constantine, 21 Oxford
St. —
Corporation Baths, in Store St., Leaf St., Baker St., and Osborne St.
American Consul, W. J. Orinnell, Esq.

Manchester, the chief industrial town of England, and the great

metropolis of the cotton -manufacture, is situated on the river
Irwell, a tributary of the Mersey, in a gently undulating plain.
Manchester proper lies on the left bank of the Irwell, which here
receives two smaller streams, the Medlock and the Irk; hut in
ordinary speech the name is used to include Salford, on the oppo-
site bank, which really forms one town with Manchester, though
a distinct municipality, returning its own members to Parliament.
In 1881 the population of the united city was 569,909 (Man-
chester, 393,676; Salford, 176,233), but Manchester alone, the
municipal boundaries of which have been extended, now (1890)
contains nearly as many. The population includes a large German
clement, whose influence may perhaps be traced in the zeal and suc-
cess with which music is cultivated here. Besides cotton goods, Man-
chester also manufactures large quantities of silk, worsted, chemi-
cals and machinery. Its chief interest for the stranger lies in its
,

huge manufactories and warehouses, and in the bustling traffic of its

streets. Most of the streets of the older part of the town, centering
in the Town Hall, are narrow, but many improvements have recently
been effected. The suburbs on the other [hand , such as Cheetham
Hill, Broughton, Old Trafford, and Fallowfield, are generally well
laid out and handsomely built. Many of the largest mills and fac-
tories are now in the villages around Manchester, and the town
itself is becoming more of an emporium and less of an actual centre
of manufacture. The rivers unfortunately do not add much to the
attractions of the town, as their waters are black with mill-refuse.
Since 1847 Manchester' has been the seat of a bishop.
History. Manchester occupies the site of the Mancunium of the Ro-
mans and the second half of the name represents the Saxon corruption
,

of the Latin Castrum (comp. p. 270). In the 10th cent, wejhear of Edward
the Elder repairing and garrisoning the village of Manigceaster, and a
line of Norman barons seems to have derived their title from this place.
Towards the end of the 14th cent, it was already known as an in-
dustrial place of some importance the manufacture of woollen and
,

linen goods having, according to report, been introduced by Flemish im

migrants in the time of Edward III. Under Henry VIII. (1509-1547) Man-
MANCHESTER. *P*
 ;

Infirmary. MANCHESTER. 42. Route. 335

cheater appears as the principal town of Lancashire, but its size cannot have
been very great, as even in 1720 it did not contain 10,000 inhabitants.
After the middle of the 18th cent, its progress began to be more rapid,
and the population rose from 20,000 in 1760 to 94,000 in 1801. The first
application of steam to machinery for spinning cotton was made here in
1789, and gave a great impetus to the cotton-manufacture. The advance
was aided by the construction of the Bridgewater Canal (see p. 832), unit-
ing Manchester and Liverpool ; and in 1830 the Manchester and Liverpool
railway (see p. 332) was opened. A 'Ship Canal', to connect Manchester
with the sea, is now approaching completion (see p. 339). The increase
of the city during the present century has been very rapid, and the po-
pulation has multiplied sixfold within 80 years. Comp. W. E. A. Axon"!
'Annals of Manchester' (1886).
The name Manchester School began to be used some 50 years ago
to designate the political party that agitated for the repeal of the corn-
laws and for the general recognition of the principles of free trade.
The chief manufacturing town of England very naturally became the
centre of the movement, and the head-office of the Anti-Corn-Law League
was established in Newall Buildings, Market St. (comp. p. 838). Eichard
Cobden, the leader of the party, was a partner in a Manchester firm of
cotton-printers, and in 1839 the Manchester Chamber of Commerce, at
his instigation, opened the free-trade campaign by petitioning Parliament
against the corn-laws. After the triumph of the principles of free trade,
the name Manchester School stuck to the political party grouped round
Cobden and Bright, though the city of Manchester was by no means in-
variably of the same mind as these politicians. The leading principles
of Manchestrianism may be described as the development of complete
freedom of trade and unrestricted competition, and the adhesion as far as
practicable to a policy of non-intervention in foreign affairs. The ex-
pression has become domiciled in several Continental states, where it is
sometimes used as a term of reproach for those who prefer peace and
material welfare to the honour of their country.
No traveller should quit Manchester without having seen one at least
of its great factories. A letter of introduction is desirable; but those who
have none may send a written request to the head of the firm whose estab-
lishment they wish to inspect. Among the most interesting manufactories
are the following Birley's Cotton Spinning Mills at Chorlton-upon-Medlock
:

Dewhurst's Cotton Spinning Mills in Salford (with a chimney 245 ft. high);
Wood & Westhead's Smallware Manufactory, Brook St.; Worthington's
Umbrella Manufactory, Great Bridgewater St.; Fairbairn's Engineering
Works, Ancoats; Hoyle's Print Works, Mayfield; Nasmyth's Bridgewater
Foundry at Patricroft (p." 332).
We begin our walks through'Manchester at the London Road
Station (PI. G, H, 5 p. 333), near which most of the principal
;

hotels are situated. London Koad is prolonged towards the N. by

Piccadilly (PI. G, 4), one of the chief streets of the city.
Here, to the left, rises the Royal Infirmary (PI. G, 4), a large
building founded in 1753 but since extensively altered and pro-
,

vided with a handsome Ionic portico. One wing was erected partly
from the proceeds of a concert given by Jenny Lind. -About 20,000
patients are annually treated here.
The pavement in front is adornedSwith four bronze statues. To the
left is the Duke of Wellington (1769-1852), by Noble, surrounded by four
allegorical figures. —
In the centre are statues of Dalton (1766-1844),
founder of the atomic theory, and James Watt (1736-1819), the inventor of
the steam engine. —
To the right is Sir Robert Peel (1788-1850), by Marshall.
Piccadilly is continued by Market Stbbbt (PI. E, F, 3) the ,

main artery of traffic in Manchester. To the left, halfway down the

street, is the new Post Office (PI. F, 3). Market St. ends opposite
336 Route 42. MANCHESTER. Cathedral.

the Exchange (PL E, 3), a massive structure in the classical style,

erected in 1864-74 by Mills and Murgatroyd, with a Corinthian por-
tico, and a campanile 180 ft. high.
The Great Hall, 200 ft. long and 190 ft. wide is covered with a dome
,

80 ft. high. On cotton-market days (Tues. and Frid., 1-2) it is crowded

with 'buyers and sellers from all parts of Lancashire, and presents a scene
<if great hustle and apparent confusion. Strangers are admitted to the
galleries on application to the keeper. — In St. Ann's Square, adjoining
the Exchange, is a Statue of Cobden (p. 335), by Wood.
We now turn to the right and proceed to the N. through Victoria
Street to (5 min.) the Cathedral (PI. E, 2), situated in an open
space facing the Irwell. The building is in the Perp. style and
dates mainly from the early half of the 14th cent., but restoration
has given it a somewhat modern aspect. A new N. porch was added
in 1889. It is the parish-church for the vast parish of Manchester
and was made collegiate under a warden and fellow in the 15th
century. It was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1847 and
is one of the smallest of English cathedrals, being only 220 ft. long
and 112 ft. broad. Its great comparative width is due to the fact
that chapels have been added on both sides of the original church
so as to form double aisles. The square tower , 140 ft. in height,
was rebuilt in 1864-67. Part of the exterior is decorated with
quaint carvings.
Interior (adm. free; services at 11 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.). The Nave is
impressive owing to its unusual width, but the Ciioik is the most interesting
part of the interior. Both nave and choir have flat timber ceilings. The
oaken Choir Stalls, dating from about 1505, are finely carved (quaint
misereres). The stained glass is modern. Perhaps the most attractive
chapel is the Lady Chapel, added about 1518. The outer N. aisle of the
choir (rebuilt) is known as the Derby Chapel, and contains monuments to
members of that family. Off this chapel opens the small Ely Chapel, with
the monument of Bishop Stanley of Ely (d. 1515), who was Warden of Man-
chester Collegiate Church in 1485-1509 and built the beautiful clerestory of
both nave and choir. At the E. end of the N. aisle of the choir is a
"Statue of Humphrey Chelham (see below), by Theed. At the E. end of
the S. choir-aisle is the small Fraser Chapel, erected in 1887 to the memory
of Bishop Fraser (d. 1885), of whom it contains an effigy. To the S. of
the choir is the octagonal Chapter House.
A the E. of the Cathedral, in Shudehill, is Smithfield
little to
Market (PI. G,which may be visited on Saturday evening, when
2),
the factory operatives lay in their supplies for the week. To —
the S. of the Cathedral is a Statue of Cromwell (PI. E, 3). To —
the N. stands *Chetham College or Hospital (PI. E, F, 2), with a
Blue Coat School established by Humphrey Chetham in 1651, and
a library of 40,000 vols, (open 10 to 4, 5, or 6).
The library is probably the oldest free library in Europe. The build-
ing itself (small gratuity to boy who acts as guide) , enclosing a quad-
rangle, dates from the reign of Henry IV. (1422-1461) and is the most
ancient and interesting in Manchester. It originally formed part of the
collegiate buildings attached to the old church. The Dining Hall has a
dais and screen. The Library (with a fine carved oak buffet and some old
portraits), and the Dormitories are also interesting.
The large red building adjoining Chetham College is the Qram-
mar School, of which De Quincey is the most famous alumnus
 ,

Town Hall. MANCHESTER. 42. Route. 337

(rebuilt since his time). Immediately to the N. are the Exchange

and Victoria Stations (PI. E F 2) the latter adjoined by the
, , ,

Workhouse (PI. F, 1).

Passing the "Victoria Station and crossing New Bridge Street, we
now ascend Great Ducie Street to (6 min.) the * Assize Courts (PI.
E, 1), an imposing Gothic edifice, erected in 1864 from the designs
of Waterhouse, at a cost of 100,000Z.
The fine entrance, on the W. side i8 adorned with the statues of
,

eminent lawgivers that of Moses crowning the apex of the gable. The
,

capitals of the columns in the portico represent the judicial penalties of

former times. The slender pointed tower rising from the centre of the
building is 210 ft. high. The large central Hall, 100 ft. long, 48 ft. wide,
and 75 ft. high, has a window (at the N. end), representing the signing
of Magna Charta. — Behind the Assize Courts is the large County Gaol.
Deansgate (PI. E, 3, 4, 5), one of the busiest thoroughfares
in Manchester, begins to the S.W. of the Cathedral, and ends at
Knott Mill Station (PI. D, 6) in the district supposed to be the
,

exact site of the Roman Mancunium (p. 334). To the left, at the
corner of Lloyd St. (PL E, 4), are the new School Board Offices.
John Dalton Street, the fifth cross-street on the left, leads to Albert
SauARE (PI. E, 4), which is embellished with statues of Prince
Albert (d. 1861), by Noble, under a Gothic canopy by Northington,
and Bishop Fraser (A. 1885), by Woolner. On the W. side of the
square rises the *New Town Hall (PI. E 4) , another enormous
,

and imposing Gothic pile by Waterhouse (see above) erected in ,

1868-77 at a cost of 775,000*. The clock-tower is 286 ft. high

(*View from the top) ; it contains a fine peal of bells and a carillon.
The Interior (adm. 6d.) contains 250 rooms. The great *Hall, 100 ft.
in length, is adorned with frescoes of scenes from the history of Manchester
by Madox Brown, and contains statues of Gladstone and Villiers. On the
roof are the arms of English towns and counties.
In King St. (PI. E, 3, F, 4), a little to the N., is the Free Reference
Library (open 9-10, on Sun. 2-9), occupying the old Town Hall.
Adjoining the Town Hall is the Memorial Hall (PI. E, 4), com-
memorating the ejection of the Nonconforming clergy in 1662.
Passing the N. side of the Town Hall through Princess St.
,

and crossing Cooper St., we reach Mosley St. (PL F, 4), another
busy thoroughfare. Opposite us, at the corner of Princess St., is
the City Art Gallery (formerly the Royal Institution; PL F, 4),
a building in the Greek style by Barry, with an Ionio portico.
It contains a collection of pictures, casts of the Elgin Marbles in the
British Museum, and a statue of Dalton (p. 335) by Chantrey. Annual ex-
hibitions of art are held here.— Immediately to the N. of the Royal In-
stitution is the Athenaeum (PI. F, 4), a kind of club for young business-
men (quarterly subscription 6». 6<J.), with a good library.
If we turn to the right on reaching Mosley St. from Albert
Square (see above), we soon reach St. Peter's Church (PL F, 6),
containing an altar-piece after Carracci. In Peter Street running ,

hence to the W., stands the Tree Trade Hall (PL E, 4), in the
Italian palatial style by Walters , erected in 1856 on the site of
,

the earlier edifice of the Anti-Corn-Law League (comp. p. 335).

Baedeker's, Great Britaim 2nd BUL. 22
338 Route 4-2. MANCHESTER. Owens College

The hall is 130 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, and 53 ft. high, and can
accommodate 6000 persons.
The ground on which the original Free Trade Hall was erected was
the property of Mr. Cobden , and was placed by him at the disposal of
the League. On Aug. 16th, 1819, it was the scene of the 'Massacre of
Peterloo', the name given in Manchester to a collision between the cavalry
and yeomanry and the Manchester Reformers, when several lives were lost.
To the left of the Free Trade Hall are the Royal Theatre (p.
334) and the Young Men's Christian Association. Behind the Free
Trade Hall is the large new Central Station (PI. E, 5; p. 333).
From Mosley St., opposite Peter St., diverges Oxford Street
(PI. F, 5, 6), a long street leading S.E. to the suburban districts of
Rusholme, Fallowfield, Cheadle, etc. —
It contains the Oxford Road
Station (PI. F, 6; p. 333), All Saints' Church (PL F, 6), the School
of Art, and the Rom. Cath. Church of the Holy Name, with an elaborate
interior. — Farther out (iy 4 M. from the Town Hall) is the *Owens
College, founded in 1845 by John Owens, who left 100,000£. for the
purpose, and transferred to the present handsome Gothic edifice (by
Waterhouse) in 1873. The buildings were extended in 1886-87.
The college was incorporated by Act of Parliament in 1874, and in
iSSO it was constituted one of the colleges of Victoria University (see below).
It is now attended by about 1200 students, taught by about 80
profes-
sors and lecturers, and includes a medical school and faculties ot arts,
law, and science. It possesses a good Library, well-furnished laboratories,
and a Collection of Natural History. Mr. Stanley Jevons (d. 1882) and Sir
Henry Roscoe were professors at the Owens College.
Victoria University, incorporated by Royal Charter in 1880 and em-
powered to grant degrees , has its seat at Manchester and comprises at
present the Owens College, Liverpool University College (p. 329), and the
Yorkshire College (p. 403). In 1887 the University received an annual grant
of 2000J. from the public funds.
The Manchester Art Museum, in Ancoats (to the E. of PI. H, 4),
opened in 1886 may be called the Bethnal Green Museum of Manchester
,

(open free, week-days and Sundays). The objects exhibited are furnished
with explanatory labels. Concerts, lectures, and classes are also held here
for the people of the district.
Salford (p. 334), or Manchester on the right bank of the Irwell,
contains little to interest the stranger, the greater part of it con-
sisting of monotonous streets of warehouses and workmen's dwell-
ings. The Rom. Cath. Cathedral (PI. C, 2, 3), a good building by
Pugin the Elder , with a spire 240 ft. high and a fine W. front,
is much obscured by adjoining houses.
To the N.W., by the Irwell, lies Peel Park (PI. A, 2), a
skirted
public park, prettily laid out, containing a museum and a library. The
Museum, is a large building in the Renaissance style, with a fair collection
of antiquities and other objects of interest. The Art Gallery contains
modern paintings and sculptures. The building also includes the Salford
Free Library. The handsome wrought-iron gateway of the park commem-
orates the visit of Queen Victoria in 1857, and the park also contains
statues of the Queen, Prince Albert, Cobden, and Sir Robert Peel. The —
Whitworth Pari, near Oxford St. (beyond PI. F, 6), 24 acres in extent, a
bequest of Sir Joseph Whitworth, was opened in June, 1890. The Whit-
worth Institute, in the park, with a picture gallery, a commercial museum,
etc., has been founded for the promotion of the fine arts.
Manchester possesses several other public parks, some of them of con-
siderable size. Botanic Gardens, see p. 334. —
"Bellevue Gardens, see
 Ship Canal. MANCHESTER. 42. Route. 339

p. 334.The celebrated attempt to rescue Fenian prisoners in 1867 was

made near the old Bellevue Prison, in the Hyde Eoad.
Those who wish to pay a visit to the works of the 'Manchester Ship
Canal, which none interested in inland navigation should omit, apply for
an order at the Company's Offices in Deansgate. The canal, which is
35 M. long and 26 ft. deep, with a minimum bottom depth of 120 ft., is to
be finished in 1892 at an estimated cost of 6,000,000!. It begins at Old Traf-
ford (conveniently reached by tramway from Deansgate to the end of
Trafford Road) and enters the Mersey at Eattham (p. 323). The docks at
the Manchester end, on both sides of the Irwell, have an area of 114 acres,
and the quay-frontage will be 5 J/4 M. long. The locks and sluices at
Trafford and other points of the canal are among the most important works
of the kind ever executed. It is hoped that the canal will practically make
Manchester one of the principal seaports in Great Britain. Comp. p. 323.
From Manchester to Bolton and Blackburn, 25 M. , Lancashire
and Yorkshire Railway in Vi-l'/s br. (fares 4*. 6d., 3s. 6<J., 2*. 2%d.). —
10'/2 M. Bolton-le-Moors (Swan; Victoria), a prosperous town of 112,350
inhab., with large cotton-mills, bleaching and dye-works, engine factories,
and iron-foundries. Crompton (1763-1827), the inventor of the spinning-
mule, resided at Bolton and is commemorated by a statue in Nelson
Square. In the vicinity are the (2 M.) Hall-in-the-Wood, an old timber
house where Crompton perfected his invention, and (3 M.) Smithills Ball,
an interesting old manor-house. — 25 M. Blackburn (Old Bull), a well-
built industrial town of 116,850 inhab., the staple products of which are
cottons, calico, and muslin. Hargreaves (d. 1788) the inventor of the
spinning-jenny, was born here.
[From Blackburn branch-lines diverge on the left to Preston (p. 373)
and on the right to Hellifteld (p. 404). The latter passes Whalley (Whalley
Arms), with a ruined abbey, and Clitheroe (Swan), with a ruined castle.
About 5 M. to the N.W. of Whalley is the Jesuit college of Stonyhurst
(250 pupils), containing a museum with some interesting historical relics,
some fine illuminated MSS., a Roman altar, and a collection of paintings.
From Clithero pleasant excursions may be made in the valley of the
Ribble and to the Hill of Pendle, a famous haunt of Lancashire witches.]
From Manchester to Oldham and Rochdale, IC/2 M., railway in 3/4-
l>/2 hr. (fares 2s., Is. 6<J., lO1^.). Departure from Exchange and Victoria
Stations (p. 333). — 6V2 M. Ashton-under-Lyne (Boar's Bead; Railway), a
busy cotton-spinning town with 43,490 inhabitants. Our line here diverges
to the N. from that to Huddersfield and Leeds (see below). — 7'/2 M.
Oldham (Angel; Albion), a busy town with 134,000 inhab., a museum,
and extensive manufactories of cotton, hats, and machinery. — 10'/2 M.
Rochdale ( Wellington ; Duckworth's; Railway), a town with 68,865 inhab.,
situated on the Roche, is one of the chief seats of the flannel and
woollen industry, in which about 100 mills are here engaged. It pos-
sesses some interest in economical history as the place where the first
impulse was given to the great movement of co-operation by the form-
ation, in 1844 , of the Society of Equitable Pioneers, which consisted of a
few mill-hands , with a capital of 281. The society now contains 11,340
members and possesses a capital of 353,4701. John Bright (d. 1889) lived
and is buried at Rochdale.
Feom Manchester to Huddersfield and Leeds, 42'/a M., railway in
IV2-2V4 hrs. (fares 7s., 5s. 3d., 3s. Id.). To (6V2 M.) Ashton, see above.
Near (8 M.) Stalybridge (Castle), a cotton-spinning town with 40,000 inhab.,
the train enters a bleak moorland-district, and begins to cross the ridge
of limestone hills stretching northwards from the vicinity of Derby
(comp. p. 350) to the Lake District and the Scottish border. — Beyond
(10'/2 M.) Mossley we enter Yorkshire. From (13 M.) Greenfield a short
branch-line diverges to Oldham (see above). — 14 M. Saddleworth (Commer-
cial), a manufacturing town with 20,000 inhab., in a bleak hollow at the
foot of some picturesque rocks. The railway, the road, the Huddersfield
Canal, and the river Tame here all run parallel through a deep valley.
We penetrate the ridge by one of the longest tunnels in England (3 M.). —
26 M. Huddersfield (George; Imperial; Queen; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), one
22*
 ;

340 Route 43. ISLE OF MAN.

of the centres of the English cloth and woollen manufacture, is a well-built

modern town of 80,000 inhab., situated on the Colne, on the W. margin
of the limestone hills. The environs are pretty, and contain some Roman
remains. — 30V2 M. Mirfield (Rail. Buffet) is the junction for Bradford
Cp. 404), and a little farther the line to Wakefield (p. 402) diverges to
the right. 33V2 M. Dewsbury (Royal; Rail. Buffet), a manufacturing place
with 30,000 inhah.; 35 M. Batley. —42Vz M. Leeds, see p. 402.
Fkom Manchester to London via Ceewe, 189 M., railway in 4'/j-
61/2 hrs. (fares 24a. 6d.20s., 15s. &/*d.; return 49*., 40s., 30s. lid.). The
,

remarks made at p. 345 as to sleeping -carriages, etc., apply also to

Manchester trains. — The train starts from London Road Station (p. 333),
and after passing several small suburban stations crosses a gigantic viaduct
over the valley of the Mersey and part of the town of Stockport. —
6 M. Stockport (George; Buckley Arms; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a large
cotton -manufacturing town on the Mersey, with 59,530 inhabitants.
The huge Union Sunday School contains 80 class-rooms , with accommo-
dation for 5000 children. — 8 M. Cheadle Hulme is the junction of the
line to Macclesfield (see below). — 14 M. Alderley Edge (Queen's Hotel),
with the house and park of Lord Stanley of Alderley, is a favourite resi-
dence of wealthy Manchestrians. — At (31 M.) Crewe we join the through-
line of the L.N.W. Co. from Liverpool to London (see p. 345). — Other
L.N.W. trains between Manchester and London leave this line at Cheadle
Hulme (see above) and proceed through the Potteries (see p. 346) to rejoin
the main line at Norton Bridge (p. 346) or Colwich (p. 347). The principal
intermediate stations on this route are Macclesfield (Macclesfield Arms;
(>ueen's), an important centre of the silk industry, with 37,500 inhab.
Stoke-upon-Trent (p. 346); and Stone.
Fkom Manchester to London via Deebt, 191'/2 M., railway in 4 1 /»-
5>/2 hrs. (fares 24s. 6d., 15s. 5V2<*. ; returns 49s., 30s. lid. ; comp. p. 349).
The train starts from the Central Station (p. 333) and proceeds via, several
suburban stations to (9 M.) Stockport ( Tiviotale), where it unites with
the route of the Midland Railway from Liverpool (see p. 349).
From Manchester to Liverpool, see R. 42; to Chester, see p. 277; to
London via, Sheffield, see R. 44c; to Wigan (also accessible by the L.K.W.R.
from the Exchange Station), see p. 333.

43. The Isle of Man.

The usual routes to the Isle of Man are the following — :

From Liverpool to Douglas 75 M. steamer daily in winter and

, ,

twice daily (Sat. thrice) in summer (Sun. excepted) from the Prince's
,

Landing Stage, in 3V2-4V2 hrs. (fares 6s., 3s.; return 10s. 6d., 5s. 6d.).
From Barrow to Douglas, 46 M., steamer in 3 hrs., daily in summer
and twice weekly in winter (fares as above).
From Fleetwood to Douglas, 54 M. , steamer in summer daily, in
3 hrs., starting on the arrival of the 2 p.m. train (fares as above).
From Dublin to Douglas, 94 M., steamer in summer on Tuesdays and
Fridays, according to tides (fares 6s., 4s.; return 10s. Gd., It. 6d.).
From Silloth to Douglas, 66 M., steamer twice weekly in summer
(on the way to Dublin; comp. p. 376), calling at Whitehaven (fares 5s., 3s.).
From Belfast to Douglas, 90 M., steamer once a week; oftener
during July and August (fares 6s. 6d., 4s.; return 10*., l s., 5*. 6d).
;

From Glasgow (Greenock) to Douglas, 140 M., steamer twice a week

in summer, calling at Ramsey (fares 10*., 5s.; return 15*., 7*. 6d.).
From Liverpool to Ramsey , 85 M. , steamer 5 times weekly in
u miner, in 6 hrs. (fares 6*., 3s.; return 10*. fid., 5s. 6<Z).
From Fleetwood to Ramsey, thrice weekly, via Douglas (see above).
From Whitehaven to Ramsey, 30 M., steamer fortnightly, in 2 hrs.
(thrice weekly in July and Aug.; fare 6s., 3s.; return 10s., 5s.).
A Railway connects Ramsey, Peel, Douglas, and Castletown, and extends
to Port Erin and Port St. Maty, giving access to most places of interest.
 ISLE OF MAN. 43. Route. 341

The Isle of or Mann , is in the Irish Sea, between Eng-

Man ,

land, Scotland, and Ireland hence its heraldic emblem (the three
;

legs, or triune), and its Manx name, Vannin oxMannin, signifying

'middle'. The nearest point of the mainland (16 M.) is Burrow Head,
Wigtonshire. The length of the island is about 32 M. its breadth about ,

12 M. its area 220 sq.M. MoTe than half of the population (about
,

54,000) are in the four towns, Douglas, Ramsey, Castletown, and

Peel. The central part of the island is mountainous and beautifully
diversified; streams, flowing through narrow leafy glens, with pre-
cipitous sides form numberless cascades.
, The whole island,
however, has become practically one large playground for the opera-
tives of Lancashire and Yorkshire and their tastes have been so
;

extensively catered for, by the erection of dancing saloons and the

like at every point of interest as to seriously interfere with the
,

enjoyment of the scenery for its own sake. The hilly region ends
with the valley of the Sulby, to theN. of which is a plain, unbroken
except by low sand-hills, and including the Ourragh, once a bog in
which the fossil elk has been found. The highest point is Snaefell
(2034 ft.), the top of which commands a view of England, Ireland,
and Scotland. On the S. coast are many fine precipitous cliffs. The
water is everywhere clear, and the smooth sandy shores affoTd safe
and pleasant bathing. Good fishing is plentiful both in the rivers
(trout) and the sea (mackarel, etc.).
History. The early history of the island is so mythical as to have
little value, especially as there is no ancient Manx literature. Its hero,
Afannonan Mac-y-Lheir (son of Lear), warrior, legislator, merchant, and
magician, is said to have been slain by St. Patrick, who converted the
Manx to Christianity (5th cent.). After this the island is supposed to
have been under the sway of a long series of Welsh princes, and from
the 10th to the 13th cent, it had Scandinavian rulers, many of the local
names being evidently of Norse origin. In 1263 Alexander III. of Scot-
land subdued the island; hut the Manx were so oppressed by the Scots,
that by their desire Edward I. took it under his protection. Among the
numerous subsequent rulers, or 'Kings', were William Montacute, Earl
of Salisbury, Sir William Scroop, and Earl Percy (1399). In 1405 Henry IV.
gave the kingdom to Sir John Stanley, and it remained with the Derby
family till 1825, when the royal rights were purchased of the Duke of Athole,
a descendant of the seventh earl, for 416,000*.
The political constitution of the island, said to be the oldest in
Europe, is unique. The government is vested in the Lieutenant Governor,
appointed by the Crown ; the Executive Council, including the two 'Deem-
sters' (judges), the Clerk of the Rolls, the Receiver-General, the Bishop,
the Archdeacon, and the Vicar-General and the House of Keys, consisting
;

of 24 members elected by male or female owners and male occupiers.

These three together constitute the Court of Tynwald (see p. 343). Acts
of the British Parliament do not extend to the Isle of Man, unless it is
specially named; and it is exempt from all imperial taxation. The island
is divided for civil jurisdiction into two districts, and each of these into
three 'Sheadings'. The first part of the title of the Bishop of Sodor and
Man is derived from the 'Sudreys' (the Hebrides), once included in the
see.— The Manx language, resembling Gaelic, is fast dying out.
A good general view of the coast is afforded by a trip round the is-
land in one of the large steamers which leave Douglas once or twice a
week during the summer, calling at Ramsey and making the circuit of
about 80 M. in 6 hours (fares 3i., 2s.). —
Living in the Isle of Man is
 ;

342 Route 43. DOUGLAS. The Isle

cheap as compared with fashionable resorts in the S. The leading hotels

at Douglas, Ramsey, etc., are good; but many of the so-called hotels at
the smaller points of interest are merely wooden barracks adapted only
for the refreshment of the passing traveller. —
Man is famous for a breed
—
of tailless cats. The best guide to the island is Brown's (Isle of Man
Times Office, Douglas).
Douglas. — Hotels. *Fort Anne, in a commanding situation at the
S. end of the bay; Villiers, a large house close to the pier; Peveiul,
Grand, Granville, Regent (R. & A. 3*. tid.), Athole, Central, all on
the Esplanade; Castle Mona. —
Innumerable Boarding Bouses facing
the sea (from 5*. per day).
Coach frequently in summer to Port Erin (return-fare 5s.). Excursion
Brakes to Laxey, Ramsey, etc. —Yachts for sailing excursions. Two —
Theatres. — Bellevtie Gardens. —
Victoria Baths. —
Tramway round the
bay &d.).
Douglas, the capital of the island, with 18,000 inhah., lies on
a fine bay, with a Tower of Refuge in the middle of it. Handsome
new streets have displaced most of the old town and a fine Pro-
,

menade skirts the shore. The Victoria Pier is 1400 ft. long, the Iron
Pier (adm. Id.) 1000 ft., and the Red Pier 540 ft. The three huge
Dancing Pavilions at Derby Castle, Falcon Cliff, and the Palace, of
iron and glass, are conspicuous features. The Castle Mona Hotel was
formerly the residence of the dukes of Athole (see p. 341). Port
Skillion, at the foot of Douglas Head reached by ferry across the
,

harbour (id.'), has excellent open-air bathing for gentlemen. At

Oovernment House is a small Collection of Local Antiquities.
Walks. Among the most interesting points near Douglas are Douglas
Head (view), the S. arm of the bay; the Nunnery, a modern but very
picturesque mansion, on an ancient foundation (reached by crossing the
bridge at the head of the harbour and turning to the right) Port Soderick,
;

3 M. to the S.; and (IV2 M.) Braddan, with its old and new churches
and Runic monuments.
Longer Excursions. A good glance at the inland scenery is obtained
by driving along the 'Long Road' and the 'Short Road', together 40 M.
in length (excursion-brakes, 2s. Sd.-is. each pers. ; 6-7 hrs.). The route
leads by Braddan (see above), St. Trinian's ruined chapel, and Greeba to
(8 M.) Ballacraine, where we turn to the right and ascend Glen Mooar,
passing the entrance to (10 M.) Glen Helen (p. 344). To the left is the Spooyt
Vane Waterfall. 15 M. Kirk Michael (p. 344); 1G M. Bishopscourt (the
episcopal palace , mostly rebuilt by Bishop Wilson) ; 18 M. Ballaugh
(p. 344); 21 M. Sulby (p. 344), 1 eyond which, to the right, are Lezayre
Church and Ballakillingan and Milntown Parks, at the foot of Skyhill. We
then reach (24 M.) Ramsey, where a stay of 1-2 hrs. gives time for a visit
to the (1 M.) Albert Tower (view). In returning by the 'Short Road', we
skirt Slieu Lewaigue and pass (4 M.) Ballaglass , the (6 M.) Dhoon Glens
(adm. 4<i.), and (8V2 M.) laxey, a thriving mining-village with 2000 inhab.,
in a beautiful glen. Its 'Mining Wheel', 721/2 ft. in diameter (view from
the top; fee 3d.), is one of the 'Lions' of the island. We then pass Onchan,
with its curious church and monuments, and descend rapidly into (16 M.I
Douglas. — Excursion-Brakes also ply direct to fT'/a M.) Laxey (see above
fare Is., return-fare Is. Gd.). — Perhaps the finest route from Douglas
to Ramsey is by the so-called 'Mountains Drive^ (18 M.), crossing the
shoulder of Snaefell (p. 341), an ascent of which may be combined with
this route, and descending through Sulby Glen (p. 344) to Sulby, where it
joins the above-mentioned route. — The following round is recommended
to the moderate walker : walk from Douglas via Braddan (see above) to
(21/2 M.) Union Mills (p. 343) ; train to St. John's (p. 343) ; visit Glen Helen
(p. 344; there and back 6 M.), and 'go on to (4 M.) Glen Meay (p. 344)
 of Man. CASTLETOWN. 43. Route. 343

and (2'/2 M.) Peel (p. 344). —

Other excursions may be made to Cattletown
(see below) , Port Erin (coach, see p. 342), etc.
From Douglas Port Erin, 16M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 2s.
6d., 1*. id.; no second class). —
M. Port Soderick; 6V2 M.
3'/2
Santon; 9 M. Ballasalla (Rushen Abbey Hotel), with the ruins of
Rushen Abbey, founded in the 11th century. IOV2 M. Castle- —
town (George, Union, both unpretending) is the ancient capital
and seat of government of the island. The chief attraction is Castle
Rushen, formerly the palace of the Kings of Man, and until lately
the prison of the island (adm. 4d.).
The present building occupies the site of a castle of the 10th cent.,
which was besieged and almost entirely destroyed by Robert Bruce in
1313. Many mysterious stories are connected with some of its unfrequented
apartments. The keep, banqueting-hall, and chapel formed the royal resi-
dence; the late Rolls Office was occupied by the Derby family. The glacis
was constructed by Card. Wolsey while he held the island as trustee
for one of the Stanleys, then a minor. From the castle-tower, Snowdon,
Anglesey, the Mourne Mountains, and parts of Cumberland are visible. The
clock in the S. tower was given by Queen Elizabeth and is still going. —
In the market-place are an antique Sun Dial and a monument to Governor
1

Smelt (1833). King William ! College, an excellent school of over 200 boys,
contains a collection of local fossils. Near the college is Hango Hill, where
William Christian (Illiam Dhone) was executed in 1602 as a traitor to the
6 th Earl of Derby (then King of the Island). —
Excursions may be made
to Derby Haven, on the curious peninsula of Langness; to (l'/s M.) tlalew
Church, with some curious relics; and to Rushen Abbey (see above).
11 1/2 M. Ballabeg; 13 M. Colby. —
15 M. Port St. Mary (Cliff
Hotel), a pleasant little seaport, now aspiring to be a seaside resort.
Walkers are advised to quit the train here and go by the Chaimt to
Port Erin (2-21/s hrs.). We follow the road (soon becoming a cart-track)
which leads to the right, opposite the Cumberland Inn, near the harbour.
5 min. Fislard. At (7 min.) a gate the track bends to the right; 5 min. Gate;
4 min. Gate, beyond which is the house where we pay (2<J.) for admission
to the enclosure containing the 'Chasms, fissures resembling those men-
tioned at p. 211. We now follow the cliffs as closely as possible to (1 M.)
'Spanish Head, which commands a view of the Calf of Man. From Spanish
Head we can either keep on round the coast, or shorten the walk by
striking inland to Cregneesh and following a track across the Mull Hills
to (1 M.) Port Erin (see below).
16 M. Port Erin {Udall's; Falcon's Nest; lodgings), a very pic-
turesque little watering-place, at the head of a narrow and deep
bay the mouth of which is partly protected by the striking ruins
,

of a huge breakwater, destroyed by a storm. The N. arm of the bay

is formed by the lofty "Bradda Head, surmounted by a view-tower.
Port Erin and Port St. Mary are good starting-points for visits by
boat (experienced boatman necessary) to some of the grandest coast scenery,
the Calf of Man, the Chickens Lighthouse, etc.
From Douglas to Peel, 12 M., railway in hr. (fares Is. %
10i., 1.".). —
21/2 M. Union Mills, 1 M. from Braddan (p. 342);
5'/2 M. Crosby.To the right, at the foot of Oreeba, lies St. Trinian's
(p. 342). — 9 M. John'sSt. ,
where our line diverges to the left
from that to Ramsey (carriages sometimes changed). A little to
the right (N.) of the station is the Tynwald Hill, a circular mound
thrown up in very remote times for legislative meetings ; and here
all new Manx laws are promulgated on July 5th.
 ;

344 Route 43. RAMSEY.

About 2 M. to (lie N. of St. John's (com]i. p. 342) ia the entrance
(Sirixs Collage Hotel, 1>. U. Gd.) to 'Glen Helen (adm. 6d.), one of the
prettiest little valleys in the island, with the (1 M.) Rhenass Falls. In —
the opposite direction lies (4 M.) Glen Meay (adm. id.), another small
glen with a waterfall, opening to the sea, whence we may go on to (3 M.)
reel (comp. p. 342).
12 M. Peel (Creg Malin, on the shore; Peel Castle) is a small
town at the mouth of the Neb, with 4000 inhah., engaged in
Ashing, boat-building, and net, sail, and rope-making.
Peel Castle (adm. 3d.), dating in its present form mainly from the
15th cent., is a picturesque ruin, to which much historic and legendary
interest attaches. It lies on St. Patrick's Isle, connected with the main-
land by a causeway (ferry across the harbour Id.). 'Fenella's Tower' is
pointed out as the scene of Fenella's escape in Scott's 'Peveril of the Peak'.
The Round Tower (50 ft. high) in the centre of the enclosure is of uncer-
tain origin. The oldest part of the ruined Cathedral, also within the
castle enclosure, is the choir (1226-47).
On the White Strand (1 M. to the W.) fossil pebbles are found. On
Peet Hill (450 ft.), a high tower, termed Corrin's Folly, was built by a
Nonconformist of that name, as a burial-place; it affords a good general
view of the tnwn and castle.
From Douglas to Ramsey, 26 M., railway in lV2-l 3/4 nr (fares -

From Douglas to (9 M.) St. John's, see p. 343.

3s. 6d., 2s. 2d.).
11 M. Poortown ; 12 M. St. Qermains. —
16 M. Kirk Michael (Mitre
Northern Railway) the churchyard of which contains several in-
,

teresting Runic monuments. A little farther on Bishopscourt

(p. 342) is passed on the right. —
19 M. Ballaugh near the
Curragh (p. 341). —
21 M. Sulby Glen (Hotel).
,

This is the best starting-point for a visit to ''Sulby Glen, a wider and
more open valley than most of the Manx glens, somewhat recalling parts
of the Highlands. A walk of 3 ! /2 M. from the station along the road
through the valley brings us to the Tholt-e-Will Hotel, in the grounds of which
(adm. kd.) are the Alt and the Tholt-e-Will Falls (the latter insignificant).
Tholt-e-Will lies near the N.W. base of Snaefell (p. 341), which may be
easily ascended hence. —From this point we may reach Ramsey via Glen
Auldyn, to the N.E. of Snaefell.
22 M. Sulby Bridge 24 M. Lezayre.
; —
26 M. Eamsey {Queen's,
Albert, Prince of Wales, on the Esplanade; Mitre, in the town;
Old Swan, unpretending; lodgings), a small town with 4500 inhab.,
is situated on the N.E. coast of the island, in the middle of a still
finer bay than that of Douglas. The sandy beach affords excellent
bathing, and there are a Promenade and a Pier, 2200 ft. long.
The environs are pretty, and pleasant walks may be taken to (1 M.)
the Albert Tower, and to (IV2 hr.) North Barrule (1850 ft.), and thence
along the ridge to (4 M.) Snaefell (p. 341). To the S. of the town the shore
is rocky, and at low tide we may follow it to Port Lewaigue (pronounced
league) and other rocky little creeks at the foot of Mnughold Head. On
the hill is Kirk Maughold, with a very curious church and monuments.
One of the favourite excursions is that to Sulby Glen (see above), with
which may be combined Glen Auldyn (see above). —
The Ballaglass Falls
and Ballure Glen are also picturesque. —
On a drive to (7 J/2 M.) the Point
of Ayre, the N. extremity of the island (fine sea view), we pass (4>/2 M.)
kirk Bride. The return may be made by Andreas, with a very lofty
church-tower and some Runic monuments. About 1 M. to the S. of the
village is the old fort of Ballachurry, a grassy mound of unknown date.
— Beyond the Point of Ayre, the coast is lined with high sandy 'Broughs',
which extend far down the W. side of the island.
 345

44. From Liverpool to London.

The traveller from Liverpool to London has a choice of the lines of
four different companies. The most direct route is by the London h North
Western Railway to Euston Square, via Crewe and Rugby. The route of
the Midland Railway (to St. Pancras) passes Matlock, Derby, Leicester, and
Bedford, traversing the beautiful Derbyshire Peak (E. 45). The trains of
the Great Northern Railway, to King's Cross, run by Manchester, Shef-
field, Retford, Grantham, and Peterborough. The Great Western Railway
to Paddington passes Chester, Shrewsbury, Birmingham, Warwick (Strat-
ford-on-Avon), and Oxford. The fares are the same on all the lines (29«.,
21*. 9d., 16<. 6d. ; no second class on the Midland Railway). The time
occupied by the fast trains (4'/2-5 hrs.) is about the same on each route.
Drawing-room carriages are attached to the principal day-expresses (no extra
charge), and sleeping-cars to the night-trains (berth 5-6*. extra). On ar-
rival passengers need not leave the latter until convenient. —
The jour-
ney may be broken at any of the intermediate stopping-places. Luncheon-
baskets may be obtained at the London and other chief stations; and
hot luncheons may be ordered in advance through the guard (charge 3*.,
including wine or beer).

a. From Liverpool to London via Crewe and Rugby.

202 M. London & North Western Railway (Euston Square) in 4>/j-7
hrs. (fares, see above).Passengers leaving London by the 7.15 a.m. express
reach Liverpool in time for the American steamers starting in the afternoon.
The tiain starts at Lime Street Station (p. 323) and passes
through deep cuttings in the red sandstone. 1 M. Edgehill; iy2 M.
Wavertree, with the lofty campanile of its church to the right. The
large church at Sefton Park (p. 328) is visible on the same side.
From (4 M.) Allerton a branch-line diverges to Oarston, a town on
the Mersey with 7840 inhabitants. Beyond (8 1 /2 M.) Ditton, junc-
tion of a line to Warrington (p. 332), the train crosses the Mersey
by a long iron viaduct. 16 M. Runcorn (p. 332); 18 M. Sutton
Weaver. We now cross the Weaver. From 22 M. Acton Bridge, on
the main L.N.W. line, a branch diverges to (i 1^ M.) Northwich
(p. 277).
We now traverse the fertile district which produces the famous
Cheshire cheese. Beyond (32 M.) Hartford the line passes through
the smiling Vale Royal, watered by the Weaver. To the right
is the manor-house of Vale Royal, the seat of Lord Delamere. The
hills of Wales are visible to the right.
43*/2 M. Crewe (*Crewe Arms, connected with the station by a
covered passage Royal; Railway Rfmt. Rooms), a town of 24,375
;

inhab., is the seat of the railway-works of the L.N.W.R., which

employ 7000 men. A
Public Park was opened in 1888. Crewe is also
an important railway-junction, 500 trains passing through it daily.
Crewe Ball, a modern Elizabethan mansion, is a reproduction of the
original building by Inigo Jones, which was burned down in 1866.
From Crewe to Chester, 31 M., railway in >/2-l hr. (fares 3s. 8(2., 3s.,
Is. 9d.). 9 M. Beeston Castle (Tollemache Arms), see p. 276. —
31 M.
Chester, see p. 269.
From Crewe to Stoke-upon-Trent, 15 M., railway in V*' 3/* hr. (fares
2s. 6d., Is. This line takes us into the heart of the Pot-
lid., 1«. 3d.).
teries, abusy manufacturing district in the N.W. of Staffordshire, where
the celebrated English earthenware and porcelain are made. This district
346 Route 44. STAFFORD. From Liverpool

occupies the upper valley of the Trent for a distance of about 10 M., and
is rich in iron and coal ; but most of the clay and other materials used
in the manufacture of pottery is brought from a distance. The towns
and villages it contains have gradually increased to such an extent that
the district may now almost be described as one large and scattered
town, with upwards of 300,000 inhabitants. In every direction rise chim-
neys, furnaces, warehouses, and drying-houses. The importance of this
industry is in great measure owing to the enterprise of Josiah Wedgwood
(1730-1795), a native ofBurslem (see below), who established his works at
the village' of Etruria, I1/2 M. to the S.W. of Stoke (see below). Minion
and Copeland also did much to promote this industry.
Stoke-upon-Trent ("Railway; Wheatsheaf; Bail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a
town with 19,263 inhab., is the capital of the busy district known as the
Potteries (see above). In front of the large station are statues of Wedg-
wood (d. 1795) and Minton (d. 1836; see above). A
visit should be paid
to the show-rooms of Minton or Copeland. —
At Burslem, to the N. of
Stoke, is the Wedgwood Institute, containing a school of art and a museum ;
it is elaborately adorned with porcelain plaques and friezes.
From Ceewe to Whitohdkch, 13 M., railway in 20-40 min. (2s. Gd.,
Is. 9<*., Is. 2d.). — 9 M. Nantwich (7490 inhab.). 13 M. Whitchurch, see p. 268.
From Crewe to Manchester, see p. 340.

On leaving Crewewe have a view of the tower of Crewe Hall

(p. 345), among trees, to the left. Beyond (52J/2 M.) Madeley
we cross the line from Wellington to Newcastle-under-Lyme, a town
with 16,000 inhab., in the Potteries (see above). —
63 '/2 M. Norton
Bridge (Railway Hotel), junction of a line to Stone and Stoke (comp.
p. 340). —
We now pass Stafford Castle (see below) on the right.
68V2 M. Stafford (North Western; Swan; Vine ; Bail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), the county-town of Staffordshire, with 19,980 inhab., situ-
ated on the Sow, 3 M. above its junction with the Trent. It carries
on an extensive manufacture of boots and shoes. Near the station,
but on the other side of the river, is St. Mary's Church, a handsome
cruciform edifice, with an octangular tower and a late-Norman nave
(1189). It contains a few old monuments. Close by, at the corner
of Greengate, is the picturesque old High House. Nearly opposite
theHigh House is St. Chad's , a restored Norman church. The
Museum, in Eastgate, contains books and MSS.,
a collection of old
presented by Mrs. Salt. Izaak Walton (1593-1683) was a native of
Stafford, and a walk on the river-side, near the station, bears his
name.
About IV2 M. to the N.W. of the town, on the Newport Road (pass-
ing the back of the station) , is Stafford Castle , a square building with
towers at the corners, finely situated on a hill commanding an extensive
view. It belongs to Lord Stafford, but is now untenanted, except by the
keeper (visitors admitted). Part of the old Norman keep is extant.
From Stafford to Siirewsbuky, 29 M., railway in 3/4-l ! /4 hr. (fares
5s. 2d., 3s. dd., 2s. 5'/2^.). Near (11 M.) Newport (Shakespeare), with a fine
15th cent, church, are Aqualate Hall, with a sm;\ll lake, and Chetwynd
Park. — 19 M. Wellington, and thence to (29 M.) Shrewsbury, see p. 262.
From Stafford to Tttoxeter, 15 M., railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 2s.,
Is. Sd., is. 3d.). Near (5V2 MJ Ingestre is Ingestre Park, the seat of the
Karl of Shrewsbury. At (11 M.) Chartley are the ruins of an old castle of
that name and another fine park. At Chartley Hall is shown a room in
which Marv, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned for some time. —
15 M.
Uttoxeter (White Hart; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), pronounced Uxeter, is a
pleasant little town of 4700 inhab., on the railway from Stoke (see above) to
 to London. LICHFIELD. 44. Route. 347

Derby (p. 360). It was at Uttoxeter market that Dr. Samuel Johnson's
father kept the book-stall, at which his son on one occasion refused to
take his place. The penance he in after-life imposed upon himself for
his disobedience is well known. Entering the market at the time of
high business he stood for an hour in the rain, with his head bare, in
front of the stall which had once been his father's. — Near Alton, on the
railway to Macclesfield, 7>/2 M. to the N. of Uttoxeter, is *Alton Towers,
the picturesque seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury. Its splendid collections
have been to a great extent dispersed and the house is seldom shown;
but the beautiful grounds (adm. is.) well deserve a visit. — Leek (George),
another station on the same railway, has a fine church and an art-gallery.
Near it are the ruins of Dieulacresse Abbey, incorporated in a farm-house.
From Stafford to Wolverhampton, 15 M., railway in 25-40 minutes.
Wolverhampton, and thence to Birmingham, see pp. 259, 260.
Beyond Stafford the line turns to the left (E.). To the left lie
Ingestre Hall and Park (p. 346). From (75 M.) Colwich (Stafford
Arms), with a Dec. church (to the right), a line runs N.W. to
Stone, where it .unites with the line from Norton Bridge to Stoke
(see p. 346). This is sometimes used as an alternative route by
the Manchester express-trains. About 1 M. to the E. is Shugborough
Park, the seat of the Earl of Lichfield and birthplace of Anson
(1697-1762), the voyager. Wolseley Hall and Park are also visible
to the right. The train follows the pretty valley of the Trent. —
From (79 M.) Rugeley Junction a branch runs to Rugeley (Shrews-
bury Arms), the square church-towers of which are seen to the right,
and Walsall (p. 259). Near (81 M.) Armitage we leave the Trent,
which here turns to the N. To the right are Beaudesert Park, the
seat of the Marquis of Anglesey, and the hilly district called Can-
nock Chase, formerly a royal forest, and now an important mining
region (coal and iron). As we approach Lichfield we have a view
of its graceful cathedral-spires to the right. The L.N.W. Trent
Valley Station is l'/2 M. from the town (omn. 6d.).
86 M. Lichfield (*Oeorge, the scene of Farquhar's 'Beaux' Stra-
tagem', St. John St., It. & A. 4s.; Swan; Anglesey, unpretending),
pleasantly situated on an arm of the Trent, is a small town with
8360 inhab., a fine cathedral, and many interesting associations
with Dr. Samuel Johnson, who was born here in 1709.
The name of Lichfield is probably derived from the A. S. leccian, to
irrigate, and refers to its well-watered situation. The chief industry of
the town is brewing. According to Johnson the citizens of Lichfield 'are
the most sober, decent people in England, are the genteelest in proportion
to their wealth, and speak the purest English'.
The house in which Johnson was born is at the corner of the
Market Place (reached from St. John St. by Bore Street opposite ,

the Clock Tower) and Sadler Street and is recognisable by the

,

three wooden pillars in front. Opposite is the Church of St. Mary,

with a tall spire, the register of which contains an entry of John-
son's baptism. The market-place contains a colossal Statue of John-
son, erected in 1838, with bas-reliefs of scenes from his life on the
pedestal. Johnson's father and mother are buried in the Church
of St. Michael, to the E. of the town, where their tombs are marked
by epitaphs composed by their son (in the central aisle). The free
 348 Route H. LICHFIELD. From Liverpool

Grammar School, attended by Johnson, Addison, and Garrick was

rebuilt about 1850. The old Three Crowns Inn, in the
market-
place, entertained Johnson and Boswell when they
visited Lich-
field in 1776, and it was the scene of the 'comfortable supper'
after which the sage uttered the above encomium on his
native place.
The * Cathedral, a building of red sandstone, dedicated
to
St. Chad (d. 672), the patron-saint of Lichfield, and situated
in a small but picturesque close at the N. end of
the main line
of streets, dates mainly from the 13-14th centuries.
The diocese of Lichfield was formerly of immense size, having
at first conterminous with the kingdom of Mercia,
been
and no fewe? than
twelve other modern sees once lay wholly or in part within
its borders
At the end of the eighth century the bishop of Lichfield bore for
a short
time the archiepiscopal title. —
The first cathedral, built in the 7th cent
was perhaps on the site of the present church of St. Chad (p. 349)-
but the
earh st ildl g on the P Te sent site was a Norman church
f ,,™ j? dating from
?e°*l w
JooViZ' *t
J
* lf , *l
dest P art 0f the existing building is the lower
u - part
° f th ? !r h0l,r ' erected about 120°i the transepts followed
th « na e dates from about 1250, and the W. front
loan £•', 7 from about
lady-chapel and presbytery belong to the beginning
the h£
*T 14th century,
The cathedral-close was formerly surrounded by a wall
of
and moat, and m 1643 the cathedral was defended against the Puritans
who battered down the central tower and demolished many
carvines
monuments, and windows. It was, however, soon restored
'

Lichfield Cathedral is sometimes styled the 'Queen

of English Minsters',
and though surpassed by other cathedrals in age, size,
grandeur of site, and
elaborate decoration, it has yet a good claim to the
title in the exquisite
symmetry, proportion, and picturesqueness of its general
effect. The most
conspicuous external features are the three beautiful
spires and the fine
™k
a?a
l h Voo ^\ -
l L
C ei tra Ste ple
!
W ^w
ren) is 260 ft., and those at the W.
%£
S?p most graceful
the < i ^ 2*
e
-
Fagade ' dating from about 1280 is °°e of
and harmonious in England; >

and it has an advantage

,°J?£ T a front as that of Peterborough (p. 362) in its organic
with the rest of the building. It is covered with niches
tues, now almost all filled with modern figures.
connection
for about 100 sta-
The door of the N. tran-
sept is a fine piece of E.E. work.
cathedral are: length 403 ft.; width of nave,
—
The main dimensions of the
I
65 ft.; width across tran-
septs, 149 ft.; height, 60 ft. The daily services are at 10 a.m. and 4 p
We enter by the W. portal.
m
The 'Interior (adm. at any hour of the day ; no fee) is worthy
of
the exterior; its proportions are very harmonious
and pleasing, while
the red hue of the stone gives an impression
of great richness and
warmth The Nave is in the early-Dec. style, with a beautiful
triforium.
I he aisles are unusually narrow. Most of the ancient monuments have
been destroyed but many of the modern ones are interesting,
those of Lady Mary Wortley Montague, Johnson, and Garrick.
such as
lastThe
is provided with an epitaph by Johnson. In the N. aisle is a
monument
erected by Miss Seward (d. 1809) to her parents, with an inscription
Mr Walter Scott referring to the poetess herself. The Tkansepts are E Ebv
with Perp. insertions. "•".,
The "Choir, which deflects palpably towards the N. , was erected
but the E. half, forming the Presbytery
?™ lt i^OO;
lcLJO, while the clerestory of the W. part was also altered.
was rebuilt in
,

The junction
of the E.E. and Dec. styles is easily distinguishable. The reredos
were designed by Scott. The floor, in Minton tiles, represents and stalls
the earlv
history of the diocese. At the E. end of the S. aisle is a celebrated
ment, the "Sleeping Children of Mrs. Robinson, by Chantrey; and monu
at the
corresponding place in the N. aisle is the kneeling figure of Bn »J£!I
(d. 1836) , also by Chantrey. —
At the E. end of the choir is the Lady
Chapel, built about 1300. and terminating in a polygonal apse
(the onlv
UCKF8EU) CATHEDRAL
 to London. NUNEATON. 44. Route. 349
Gothic apse in an English cathedral). The 'Stained Glass Windows, dating
from 1530-44, were brought in 1802 from a convent near Liege. —
A door
in the N. aisle of the choir opens on a vestibule leading to the 'Chapter
House, an octagonal room, with a ribbed roof supported by a central
shaft. A room above contains the diocesan Library, among the treasures
of which are an illuminated MS. of 'Chaucer's Canterbury Tales' and
a Saxon copy of the Gospels ('St. Chad's Gospels'; not later than 700).
— In the Dean's Codkt, on the S. side of the ^cathedral, are busts of
Dr. Johnson and Garrick, by Westmacott.
The Episcopal Palace is on the N. side of the close, and on the
S. is a Theological College. —
In Beacon St., opposite the Minster
Pool, the Museum, containing local antiquities and a few paint-
is
ings. At the S. end of St. John St.,
V2 M
from *he cathedral, is
-

St. John's Hospital, a curious old structure, with eight large

buttress-like chimneys and a chapel. Near this is the City Station,
connected by a loop-line with the Trent Valley Station (see p. 347).
Environs. To the N.E. of Lichfield lies Stowe Pool, along which a
pretty walk leads to Stowe and the ancient church of St. Chad, containing
the tomb of Lucy Porter, Johnson's step-daughter. —
Wall, the site of the
Roman Etocetum, is situated 2 M. to the 8., on Watling Street fp. 366).
Kemains of ancient earthworks are still visible. Another Soman road,
named Icknield Street, leads from Lichfield towards the N.E.
Fkom Lichfield to Walsall, 13 M., railway in >/2- 3 /4 hr. (fares 2*.
3d., is. 8d., It. id.). This line traverses a busy coal-mining district.
Stations uninteresting. 13 M. Waltall, see p. 259.
Feom Lichfield to Dekby, 23>/2 M., railway in 3/i hr. —
This railway,
which is the N. prolongation of the line just described, follows the general
direction of the Icknield Street (see above).
Beyond Lichfield the train passes between the parks of Fisher-
wick (left) and Tamhorn (right) and crosses the Tame. From (91 M .)
Tamworth (p. 188), where our line intersects the Midland Railway
from Birmingham to Derby (R. 23), the train follows the direction
of the Anker. At (9872 M.) Atherstone (Red Lion), in the Three
Tuns Inn, Henry of Richmond passed the night before the Battle
of Bosworth (1485), the field of which lies about 5 M. to the N.E.
104M. Nuneaton (Newdegate Arms; Bull; Rail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), a ribbon-making town of 8465 inhab. with an old Gothic
,

church and the remains of a nunnery, fitted up as a church.

120 M. Rugby, and thence to (202 M.) London, see pp. 262-249.

b. From Liverpool to London via Buxton and Derby.

220 M. Midland Railway in 5-6 1 /* hrs. (fares, etc., see p. 345). There
are no second-class compartments on the Midland Railway, but the third-
class carriages are well fitted up.
From Liverpool to (25 M.) Olazebrook, see p. 333. The London
line here diverges to the right from that to Manchester. At (38 M.)
Tiviot Dale, one of the stations of Stockport (p. 340), our line is
joined by the direct line of the Midland railway from Manchester
(Central Station) to London (comp. p. 340), while the trains from
London Road come in at (41 M.) Romilly. Beyond (42% M.)
Marple we enter Derbyshire, and the hills of the Peak District
(R. 46) become visible to the left, at some distance.
We now traverse the valley of the Ooyt, the beauties of which
 350 Route 44. DERBY. From Liverpool

are marred by factories. At (&6 l /i M.') New Mills we obtain, on the

left, adistant view of Kinder Scout (p. 370), and farther on we pass
the conical Chinley Chum (1490 ft.). The L.N.W. line from Man-
chester to Buxton here runs parallel with ours, on the right side
of the valley. Beyond (51 3/ 4 M.) Chapel- en-le-Frith (King's Arms),
one of the starting-points for an exploration of the Peak (comp.
p. 370), the line passes below the L.N.W. Railway, threads the
Doveholes Tunnel, l l /% M. long, and reaches its culminating point
(1)85 ft.) at (55V2M-) Peak Forest Station. It then descends rapidly,
through the Oreat Rocks Dale, to (60 M.) Miller's Dale, the junc-
tion of a short branch to Buxton (p. 370). We here enter the roman-
tic * Valley of the Wye, and the scenery between this point and Mat-
lock is the most attractive on the line (best views to the left). Two
tunnels. 623/ 4 M. Monsal Dale, exquisitely situated in a narrow
part of the valley. Beyond the Longstone Tunnel the valley expands,
and the train quits the bank of the river for a little. 66 1 /2M. Bake-
well (p. 366). The train now penetrates a tunnel, passing Haddon
Hall (not visible). 70 M. Rowsley (Peacock), the nearest station
for Haddon Hall and Chatsworth (see p. 366; omnibuses Is.). Beyond
Rowsley the Wye flows into the Derwent, the broad valley of which,
here called Darley Dale, we now follow. 72'/4 M. Darley. Beyond
(74'/4 M.) Matlock Bridge the train passes through the High Tor
Tunnel and reaches (Jb 1 /^ M.) Matlock Bath (see p. 365).
Beyond Matlock the train threads another long tunnel. 76'^M.
Cromford (*Greyhound, plain, It. &A. 3s.), the 'cradle of the cotton
manufacture'; the village and Willersley Castle, the seat of the
Arkwright family, lie about 7-2 M. to the right. It was here that
Richard Arkwright (p. 373) built his first cotton-mill in 1770. —
About l'/2 M. beyond Cromford our line is joined on the right by
the High Peak Railway, for mineral traffic. — 79 M. Whatstandwell
Bridge; 81 M. Arnbergate (Hurt Arms), the junction of lines to
Chesterfield (p. 402) and Sheffield (p. 359) and to Mansfield (p. 429).
— 84 M. Belper (Lion), a small hosiery and cotton manufacturing
town with 11,000 inhabitants. — 86 M. Duffield, with the remains
of a fine Norman castle (11th cent.), is the junction of a line to
(81/2 M.) Wirksworth.
We now quit the hilly district and enter the wide plain of
Central England. The town of Derby soons come into sight on the
right, before entering the station of which we cross the Derwent
Canal and the Derwent.
91 ^M. Derby. —
Hotels. 'Midland, at the Midland Railway Station,
1 M. from the centre of the town; "St. James's, central, E. & A. 4s.;
Royal; Bell; Wood's Temperance. — Sail. Refreshmt. Rooms.
Tramways run from the centre of the town through the principal
streets to the Midland Station (fare id.) on the E., to the Great Northern
Station on the N.W., and to various other points in the suburbs.
Cab Is. per mile; from the Midland Station into the town Is. Gd.
Derby, the county-town of Derbyshire, with about 96,000 in-
Roman Derventio.
hab., lies on the Derwent, opposite the site of the
 to London. DERBY. 44. Route. 351
William the Conqueror presented the town and its environs to his
natural son, 'Peveril of the Peak'; but the last relics of the castle erected
by the latter are said to have disappeared in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
In 1745 Derby was the most southerly point reached by Charles Stuart
and his Highlanders in their attempted march to London. The manu-
facture of silk, hosiery, elastic fabrics, cotton, iron, porcelain, and
ornaments of Derbyshire spar is briskly prosecuted here. The extensive
works of the Midland Railway cover 230 acres and employ 10,000 men.
Starting from Victoria St. , in the centre of the town , we
proceed to the W. through the Wardwick, which contains the new
Museum fy Library (adm. 10-4), to the Fbiab Gate, the broadest
and best-built street in the town. Immediately to the right is
St. Werburyh's Church, where we turn to the right and pass through
Cheapside into Sadler Oate, leading to the Market Place, with
the Town Hall. The Iron Oate, opposite the Town Hall, leads N.
to All Saints' Church, with a fine Perp. Tower (175 ft. high) of
the 16th cent., the architectural glory of the town, to which an in-
congruous body has been added.
The interior contains monuments by Roubiliac, Chantrey, and Nol-
lekens ; an almost unique wooden effigy of an abbot ; a curious incised
slab with the figure of an abbot; a fine iron chancel-screen; and the
monument of Bess of Hardaick (p. 402; by the S. wall). Doles of bread
are distributed here and at St. Werburgh's after the morning service.
A little farther to the N., at the end of Queen St., is the lofty
tapering spire of St. Alkmund's (205 ft.), a modern edifice, which
is adjoined by the Rom. Cath. Church of St. Mary, by Pugin (good
interior). — From this point we descend Bridge St. to the right
to St. Marys Bridge, with an interesting little chapel (14th cent.).
We now retrace our steps through Bridge St. and Queen St.,
and near the end of the latter, beyond the small church of St. Mi-
chael, we descend to the left for a glance at the Old Silk Mill (now
a laundry), the first silk-mill in England, erected in 1718 on an is-
land in the Derwent by John Lombe.
The Arboretum, a well laid out park, •/« M. to the S.W. of the Mid-
land Station (tramway via Osmaston St.), contains a curious headless
cross, said to have been used as a pay-table between the townsmen and
peasants during the plague of 1665. On the way we pass the ivy-clad
church of St. Peter (14th cent). In Osmaston St. are the "Show Rooms of the
Derby Crown Porcelain Co. — Derby Qrammar School was founded in 1160.
Samuel Richardson (1689-1761), the author of 'Clarissa Harlowe'; Joseph
Wright (1734-1797; 'Wright of Derby'), the painter; and Ilutton (d. 1815),
the topographer, were natives of Derby. Dr. Erasmus Darwin wrote many
of his works at Derby, and died here in 1802.
Derby is said to be the Stoniton of 'Adam Bede', and the County Sail
in St. Mary's Gate the scene of poor Hetty's trial.
Derby is a very convenient starting-point for excursions to Chatsworth
and the Peak (comp. R. 45). Among the most interesting points in the
immediate neighbourhood are Kedleston Hall, 4 M. to the N.W., with a
fine park and a collection of paintings; Chaddesden, IV2 M. to the E.;
Elvaston Castle, 4 M. to the S.E.j and Duffleld (p. 350).
&JThe two principal lines of the Midland Railway part company at
Derby, the one running to the S.W. to Burton (p. 188), Birmingham (p. 254).
Worcester (p. 183), and Gloucester (p. 170), while the other runs S.E,
to Leicester, Bedford, and London (see below). — Alton Towers (p. 347)
may be reached from Derby via Uttoxeter in 1 hr.
Beyond Derby the train follows the valley of the Derwent, and
352 Route U LEICESTER. From Liverpool

joins the Loudon and Scotland trunk-line of the Midland Railway

at (101 M.) Trent Junction (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), at the con-
fluence of the Soar and the Trent, whence the branch-line to Nott-
ingham diverges (p. 429). The line turns to the S., crosses the
Trent and the Soar, and enters Leicestershire, celebrated for its
short-horned cattle, its sheep, and its hunters. —
IO71/2 M. Lough-
borough (Bull's Head), a town with 14,735 inhab., who make lace
and prepare yarn for hosiery. It contains a good cruciform church,
restored by Scott and a large bell - foundry, at which the 'Great
,

Paul' of St. Paul's Cathedral was cast in 1882. To the right, in

the distance, are the heights of Chamwood Forest, culminating in
Bardon Hill (902 ft.). The train follows the valley of the -Soar.
About 1 M. to the S.W. (right) of (109i/2 M.) Barrow-on-Soar lies
Quorndon, the headquarters of the well-known Quorn Hunt. Farther
on, to the right, is Mount Sorrel, with granite-quarries. —
115 M.
Syston.
Syston the junction of a line to (10'/2 M. ; to the E.) Melton
is
Mowbray (Harborough ; Oeorge; Bell), a small town with 5770 inhab., and
the metropolis of fox-hunting in the Midlands, with numerous hunting-
boxes and extensive stahling. In winter it is crowded with sportsmen.
Melton Mowbray is also famous for its pork-pies and Stilton cheese. The
parish-church is a fine E.B. edifice, with Dec. details. Beyond Melton
Mowbray the line goes on to Peterborough (see p. 362).— About 3 M. to the
N.W. of Syston is Rothley Temple, in which Lord Macaulay was born in 1800.
120 M. Leicester. — Hotels. Bell, Stag & Pheasant, Humber-
stone Gate; Royal; Wellington; White Hart; Blue Lion: Temperance.
Tramways (Id., 2d.) run from the Clock Tower (see below) through
the principal streets to the various suburbs.
Railway Stations. Joint Midland & L. N. W. Station, near the centre
of the town; O. N. R. Station, Belgrave Road, to the N.
Leicester, the county-town of Leicestershire, is an ancient place
with 143,153 inhab., situated on the river Soar. It is one of the
chief seats of the stocking-manufacture, and the making of boots
and elastic fabrics is also extensively carried on.
Tradition ascribes the original foundation of Leicester to King Lear,
and the present town occupies the site of the Roman Ratae, of which
several interesting relics are preserved. Richard III. spent the night be-
fore the battle of Bosworth (p. 354) in the Blue Boar Inn at Leicester, now
demolished, and his body was brought back here for burial. His stone
coffin is said to have been afterwards used as a horse-trough for the inn.
A building near the Bow Bridge (p. 353), bears the inscription 'Near this
:

spot lie the remains of Richard III., the last of the Plantagenets, 1485.'
In the Civil War Leicester held out for the Parliament, and was taken in
1642 by Prince Rupert.
In the centre of the town, at the intersection of the five main
streets, is a handsome Memorial Cross or Clock Tower, erected in
1868, with effigies of Simon deMontfort, SirT. White, Ald.Newton,
and William of Wyggestone, four benefactors of Leicester. Proceed-
ing to the W., through High St. , we pass the 'Brick Tower', a quaint
Elizabethan dwelling, and reach St. Nicholas, an ancient church,
with some massive Norman masonry in the interior and thin Roman
bricks in the clerestory. On the W. it is adjoined by the so-called
Jewry Wall, the chief Roman relic in Leicester.
 to London. LEICESTER. 44. Route. 353
This wall derives its name from the fact that the Jews were formerly
restricted to this part of the town. It is composed of rubble and Roman
bricks, and is 75 ft. long and ahout 20 ft. high. On the E. side are fonr
large archways; the W. side is concealed. —
Farther to the W. is the
Wett Bridge over the Soar, beyond which is Bow Bridge (see p. 352), over
an arm of the river. Adjacent is an interesting Roman pavement.
To the S. of St. Nicholas, reached through Harvey Lane, is the
site of the old Castle of Leicester built soon after the Norman
,

Conquest and afterwards occupied by Simon, Earl of Montfort, and

the Dukes of Lancaster, of which nothing remains except the
modernised Great Hall, now used for the county-assizes. Adjacent
is a large earthwork called the Mount or Castle View, on which the
castle-donjon or keep formerly stood it commands a fine view of
;

the town (entrance through the yard of a public-house). To the

S. of the Mount is Trinity Hospital, founded in 1531. Close to the
castle, of which it formed the chapel, is the *Chureh of St. Mary,
an interesting old building, exhibiting specimens of all the architec-
tural styles from Norman to late-Perpendicular.
The archway to the S. leads to the Nbwark (i.e. the new work),
originally an addition to the castle, from which another old gate (re-
stored), adjoining the Militia Barracks, opens into Oxford St.
To the S. of the Memorial Tower is the Mahket Plach, con-
taining the Market House, with a curious outside-staircase in front.
— In Horsefair St., to the S. of the market, are the new Municipal
Buildings, withaclock-towerllSft. high. —
Atthe end ofHorsefair
St. we turn to the left into Market St. and cross Belvoir St. into King
St. To the left diverges the New Walk, leading to the Municipal
Museum, which contains a good collection of Roman and other an-
tiquities, etc. The Art Gallery, Hastings St., contains a fine work
by G. F. Watts ('Fata Morgana').
Farther to the S., in De Montfort Sq. , is a Statue of Robert Hall
(1764-1831), the celebrated preacher, who lived at Leicester for many years.
From the Memorial Cross, Church Gate leads N. to St. Marga-
ret's Church, with a Perp. tower. —
The old TownHall contains some
fine carving (Mayor's Parlour). —
Wyggestone's Hospital (p. 352),
founded in 1513 for 25 men and women, now occupies buildings in
the Hinckley Road ; the charity also supports several schools.
About 3/t M. to the N. of the town are the insignificant but pictur-
esque ruins of Leicester Abbey, dedicated to 'St. Mary of the Meadows',
where Cardinal Woluy died in 1530. The abbey was erected in the 12th
cent., but the remaining ruins, except the gateway in the E. wall, date
only from the 16th century. (The entrance is on the N. side of the
enclosure.) A house has been built with part of the old" materials. The
most convenient way to Teach the abbey is to follow the Belgrave Road
to the (3/t M.) G. N. B. Station (tramway Id.), whence the Abbey Park
Road leads N. to the ('/a M.) abbey-enclosure. To the left lies the *Abbey
Pari, with its pretty flower-beds.
About 6 M. to the N.W. of Leicester is Bradgate Park (open to
the public), the seat of the Earl of Stamford, with a fine avenue of
chestnuts; the old house, now in ruins, was the birthplace of Lady
Jane Grey (1535-54), whose father, the Duke of Suffolk, belonged to the
family of the Barons Grey of Groby, a village in the neighbourhood. It was
at Bradgate Park that Roger Ascham found his former pupil immersed in
Baedkktch's frrfiat. RHtain 0-nfl V.t\it. OQ
354 Route U. KETTERING. From Liverpool

Plato, while the rest of the family were hunting in

— Nearly 2 M. farther on are the picturesque ruins ofCharnwood Forest.
— An interesting excursion may be made from LeicesterUlverscroft Priory.
to Bardon Hill
12 M. to the N.W., which is most easily reached by railway (see below)!
"Bardon Hill (902 ft.) lies almost exactly in the centre of England and
commands a very extensive prospect.
From Leicester to Bdrton , 30'/2 M., railway in l-l'/j hr. (fares is.
Id., 2s. frhd.).— 14i/2 M. Bardon Station lies 1 M. to the S.W.
of Bardon
Hill (see above). Adjacent, but rather nearer Coalville, the following
station, is the Cistercian monastery of Mount St. Bernard, the only
'mitred abbey' in England, built by Pugin the Elder. From (16 M.) Coal-
ville a branch diverges to Nuneaton (p. 349), passing Market Bosworth
near which, in 1485, Richard III. was defeated and slain by Henry, Earl
of Richmond. — 21 M. Ashby-de-la-Zouch (Royal; Queen's Bead), a pros-
perous manufacturing town in the middle of an extensive coal-field. The
old Castle, built in the time of Edward IV. (1461-83) and now in ruins,
gave a night's lodging to Mary Stuart in 1569, but is, perhaps, more
familiar from the role it plays in 'Ivanhoe'. The old Church contains
the tomb of the Countess of Huntington, Wesley's friend, and a curious
'linger -pillory' for disturbers of divine service. The Ivanhoe Mineral
Baths attract numerous patients. Near Ashhy are the romantic ruins of
Grace Dieu Nunnery. — 30V2 M. Burton, see p. 188.
From (124 M.) Wigston branch-lines diverge to Nuneaton and
Birmingham (p. 254), and to Rugby (p. 252).
About 3 M. to the S.E. of Ullesthorpe, on the latter line, is Lutter-
worth, where Wycliffe was rector from 1375 till his death in 1384; his
alleged pulpit and other relics are preserved in the church.
136 M. Market Har borough (Angel; Three Swans; Peacock),
another great hunting-centre, is a small town -with 5350 inhabitants.
The Church is a fine Perp. structure of the 14- 15th cent. with a ,

'broach' spire (see Introd.). There are traces of a Roman camp in the
vicinity, and the town itself is probably of Roman origin. Charles I.
had his headquarters here before the battle of Naseby (1645), and the
house in which he slept is still pointed out. Naseby lies 7 M. to the
S.W. — From Market Harborough branch-lines radiate toStamford (p. 361),
Rugby (p. 252), Peterborough (p. 362) Nottingham (p. 430), etc.
,

147 M. Kettering (Royal; George), a town of 11,100 inhab.,

with an interesting late-Perp. church. In a house on the N. side of
the town is the room in which the first missionary meeting in Eng-
land was held in 1792 by Andrew Fuller and a few other Baptists.
From Kettering to Huntingdon and Cambridge, 48 M., railway in
—
2 hrs. (fares 7s. 2d., 3s. $ l fcd.). 9 M. Thrapston, from which a visit may be
paid to the architecturally interesting churches of O/2M.) Islip and (2V2 M.)
Lowick (monuments and stained glass) and also to (i 3 /4 M.) Drayton, a
very fine specimen of a mediaeval manor (15th cent.). At (lfi/2 M.) Kimbollon
is a fine old castle belonging to the Duke of Manchester, containing a
collection of paintings ; Catherine of Aragon died here in 1536. —
28 M.
Huntingdon, and thence to (48 M.) Cambridge, see p. 352.
From Kettering to Oakham and Nottingham, 52 M., railway in
l-2 ] /2 hrs. (fares 6s. 10<Z., 4*. 3>/2<Z.). This line forms an alternative route
for some of the Midland expresses to the N. — 18 M. Manion, junction of
a line to Peterborough (p. 362). Uppingham, 4 M. to the N. (omn.), has a
well-known public school. — 22 M. Oakham (George; Crown), the county-
town of Rutland, with 3000 inhabitants. The walls of the Norman hall
(now a court-room) of the old Castle (p. xxxix) are covered with horseshoes,
siiven, in accordance with an ancient custom, by kings, queens, and peers
who passed through the town. Among them are those given by Queen
Klizabeth, Queen Victoria, and the Princess of Wales. — 33 M. Melton
Mowbray, see p. 352. — 52 M. Nottingham, see p. 430. The line rejoins
the main line at Trowell, near Ilkeston (p. 402).
 to London. BEDFORD. 44. Route. 355

The train follows the Ise, passing through beds of Northampton

iron-stone. At (lb&ifeM.') Wellingborough (Hind; Angel), a town
with 13,796 inhab. and a tasteful church, we cross the L. N. W.
line from Peterborough (p. 362) to Northampton (p. 251). Ecton,
3 M. from Wellingborough, was the birthplace of Benjamin Frank-
lin's father. Benjamin Franklin visited the place and inspected
the house in 1758. The train now intersects a range of hills and
enters the valley of the winding Ouse, which we cross six times
before reaching Bedford. Beyond (167 M.) Oakley diverges the
Midland branch to Northampton (p. 251). To the left rises the
Saxon tower of the church of Clapham.
170 M. Bedford. — Hotels. 'Swan, on the river, at the 8. end of High
St., R. & A. 4j. 6<f. ; Red Lion, High St., well spoken of; Geokge;
Clarence, unpretending; Tempekance, at the Midland Station.
Railway Stations. The station of the Midland Railway is on the W.,
the L.N.W. Station on the S.E. side of the town.
Bedford, the county-town of Bedfordshire and the place from
which a suffragan of the Bishop of London takes his title, is a quiet
agricultural town with 19,532 inhab., on the Ouse.
Now, as in the days of Camden, more than two centuries ago, Bed-
ford is 'more eminent for the pleasantness of its situation and antiquity
than anything of beauty or stateliness'. Its site seems to have been oc-
cupied before the Roman period, and it has been identified with the
Saxon Bedicanford. In the 11th cent, a Norman castle was erected here
to command the ford, and its important situation involved it in most of
the internal struggles of England. The last siege it underwent was in
1224, when Henry III. captured the town and razed the castle.
From the Midland Station, near which are Howard's Britannia
Iron Works (reaping-machines and other agricultural implements)
the Midland Road leads in 10 min. to the High Street, the main
street of the town. Near the bridge at its W. end is the site of the
old Castle (no admission), marked by an artificial circular mound,
15 ft. high and 150 ft. in diameter. Apleasant walk may be taken
on the Embankment.
To most visitors the chief interest of Bedford will probably
centre in its reminiscences of John Bunyan (1628-88 see p. 356).
;

The Bunyan Meeting occupies the site of the building in which he

preached, and the vestry contains a chair which belonged to him
and a door from Bedford Gaol.
The chapel was adorned in 1876 with a pair of handsome bronze doors,
the gift of the Duke of Bedford, containing ten reliefs from the 'Pilgrim's
Progress'. In the possession of the minister of the Meeting are Bunyan's
cabinet, staff, jug, and will (in his own handwriting); also versions of the
'Pilgrim's Progress' in 70-80 languages and dialects. The Literary & Scien-
tific Institute, in Harpur St., possesses Bunyan's copy of Foxe's Book of Mar-
tyrs. On St. Peter's Green, at the end of the High St., is a bronze Statue
of Bunyan, by Boehm, presented to the town by the Duke of Bedford.
Bunyan was confined for 12 years (1660-72) in the old county -gaol,
which stood on the now vacant space in High St., at the comer of Silver
St., and was taken down in 1801. It was, however, during a subsequent
imprisonment of six months in 1675-6 that he wrote the 'Pilgrim's Pro-
gress'. This was in the town-gaol on Bedford Bridge, which was removed
in 1765. The offence for which he was imprisoned is described in his in-
dictment as 'devilishly and perniciously abstaining from coming to church
23*
356 Route U. BEDFORD. From Liverpool

to hear divine service, and for being a common upholder of several unlaw-
ful meetings and conventicles, to the great disturbance and distraction of
the good subjects of the kingdom, contrary to the laws of our Sovereign
lord the king'. His treatment between the autumn assizes of 1661 and the
spring assizes of 1662 was very lenient, but for the rest of the time his
confinement was somewhat rigorous.
Among the churches of Bedford the most important is that of
St. Paul's, a handsome Gothic
structure, practically rebuilt in 1879.
— The venerable church of St. Peter, at the E. end of High St.,
NoTman doorway and some ancient stained-glass
possesses a line
windows. The tower contains some Saxon work. St. Mary's also—
has some Saxon work and a Norman tower.
Few towns of the size of Bedford can compete with it in the number
and extent of its schools and charities, and with one-fourth of its popula-
tion under tuition it may fairly be called the 'metropolis of schools'.
This is mainly due to the liberality of Sir William Harpur (d. 1574), at
one time Lord Mayor of London, who presented to his native town some
land in Holborn, which has increased in value from 40/. to upwards of
15,00CW. a year. The principal schools are Bedford Grammar School, one
of the leading public schools of England (650 pupils), and the Modern
School (550 pupils) adjoining it, both in Harpur St.
The Ouse is a capital river for boating (boats for hire at the Embank-
ment), and Chetham, the well-known boat-builder, has his yard at Bedford.
An illuminated River Fete is held here in summer.
Environs. About 1 M. to the S. of the town lies the village of Elstow,
the birthplace of John Bunyan in 1628, still containing the cottage in
which he lived after his marriage. To reach it we cross the bridge at
the S. end of the High Street, and at the O/2 M.) bridge over the rail-
way turn to the right (road to Luton). Bunyan's cottage, indicated by a
notice , is one of the first on the right. The church of Elstow is an
interesting building, partly in the Norman and partly in the E. E. style,
with a massive detached tower (Perp.). The keys are kept by the clerk
(fee), next door to the Swan Inn. Bunyan was wont to practise the art
of bell-ringing in the tower, and the sacristan does not hesitate to point
out the very bell that he used to ring, showing the grooves worn by the
rope in the stone archway under which Bunyan stood, in dread lest the
bell should fall upon him. Two memorial-windows have been erected
to Bunyan, with scenes from the 'Pilgrim's Progress' and the 'Holy War'.
Even the unpretending village-green acquires interest when we remember
Bunyan's account of the sudden awakening of his conscience while he
was playing tip-cat here one Sunday afternoon. — John Howard, the
philanthropist, lived at the village of Cardington, 2'/2 M. to the S. E. of
Bedford, from 1758 till his death in 1790.
From Bedfoed to Northampton, 21 M., Midland Railway in 40 min.
—
(fares 2s. lid., is. 9d.). 11 M. Olney (Bull), where the poet Cowper resided
with Mrs. Unwin in 1768-1800 and wrote many of his poems. The so-called
'Olney Hymns' were the joint production of Cowper and his friend John
Newton, vicar of the parish. The house in which the poet lived, at
the corner of the market-place, still exists. — 21 M. Northampton, see p. 252.
From Bedford to Cambridge, 29 M. , L.N. W.R. in l-l'/4 hr. (fares
5s., 3s. Id., 2s. 5 l /2d.). At (8 M.) Sandy, the Eoman Salinae, this line inter-
sects the main G. N. R. line (comp. p. 363). — 29 M. Cambridge, see p. 431.
From Bedford to Hitchin, 16 M., Midland Railway in s/4 hr. (fares
2s. 2d., Is. 4<f.). The first station on this line is (2>/2 M.) Cardington (see
above). At (16 M.) Hitchin we reach the main line of the G. N. R. (p. 363).
From Bedford to Bletchlet, 16 M., L.N.W. railway in 1/2-V4 hr. (2$, 6d.,
1*. Sd., Is. id.). This line runs for a time nearly due S., parallel with the
Midland (p. 357), and then diverges oflf to the W. About 3V2 M. to the S.E.
of (12 M.) Woburn Sands is Woburn Abbey (p. 250). — At (15 M.) Fenny Stratford
the train crosses Waiting Street (p. 349), the Ouse, and the Grand Junction
Canal. At (16 M.) Bletchley we join the main line of the L. N. W. R. (p. 260).
 to London. ST. ALBANS. 44. Route. 357
Beyond Bedford the Midland Railway crosses the Onse and con-
tinues to traverse a flat and fertile district. At (176 M.) Ampthill
we pass a chain of low hills. The small town of Ampthill (King's
Arms; White Hart), from which Lord Ampthill (d. 1884), late
ambassador in Berlin, derived his title, lies about 8/4 M. to the B.
of the station. Before reaching the station the line passes through
a tunnel, below part of Ampthill Parle, which is famous for its
venerable oaks and its magnificent avenue of limes. Ampthill
House, a seat of the Duke of Bedford, lies to the left, near the
entrance of the tunnel. Close by is the site of the old castle where
Catherine of Aragon resided during her trial (marked by a cross
with an inscription by Hor. Walpole). The train now traverses a
pretty, undulating country, while the section of the cuttings shows
we are in a chalk district.
189 M. Luton (George; Bed Lion), a busy town of 24,000inhab.,
on the Lea (Lea-town), famous for its manufacture of straw-hats.
On Monday mornings the market in the Straw-plait Halls is some-
times attended by 2000 people. The parish-church, with its fine
embattled tower, possesses a chapel founded in the reign of Henry VI.
(1422-61) and contains a curious font.
From Luton a branch-line runs to (5 M.) Dunstable (p. 250) and (12 M.)
Leighton Buzzard (p. 260). It is also connected by a short branch with
Hatfield, on the main line of the Great Northern Kailway (see p. 363).
Beyond Luton the Midland line runs for some distance parallel
with the G.N. R. line to Hatfield (see p. 363). On the right is Luton
Hoo House , a handsome mansion in a prettily-wooded park with ,

an artificial lake. Beyond (192 M.) Chiltern Green the line crosses
the G. N. R. and passes into Hertfordshire.
199 M. St. Albans (Peahen; George, both near the Abbey, un-
pretending) lies a short distance to the E. of the site of Verulamium,
the most important town in the S. of England during the Roman
period, of which the fosse and fragments of the walls remain. Its
name is derived from St. Alban, a Roman soldier, the proto-martyr
of Christianity in our island, who was executed here in A.D. 304.
Holmhurst Hill, near the town, is supposed to have been the scene
of his death. The Roman town fell into ruins after the departure
of the Romans, and the new town of St. Albans began to spring up
after 795, when Offall., King of Mercia, founded here, in memory
of St. Alban, the magnificent abbey, of which the fine church and a
large square gateway are now the only remains. Pop. (1881) 10, 930.
The *Abbey Church is in the form of a cross, with a tower at
the point of intersection, and is one of the largest churches in Eng-
land. It was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1877, when the
new episcopal see of St. Albans was created. It measures 550 ft.
in length (being the second longest church in England , coming
after Winchester), by 175 ft. in breadth across the transepts; the
fine Norman Tower is 145 ft. high. The earliest parts of the exist-
ing building, in which Roman tiles from Verulamium were freely
358 Route 44. ST. ALBANS. From Liverpool

made use of, date from the 11th cent. (ca. 1080); the Choir -was
built in the 13th cent, and the Lady Chapel in the 14th century.
An extensive restoration of the building, including a new B.E. W.
Front, with a large Dec. window, has been accomplished. See
Froude's 'Annals of an English Abbey'.
The fine Interior (adm. tickets procured at the booksellers' in
tiri!. ;

the town or from the verger) has recently been restored with great care.
The Nave, the longest Gothic nave in the world, shows a curious inter-
mixture of the Norman, E.E., and Dec. styles; and the change of the
pitch of the vaulting in the S. aisle has a singular effect. The 'Stained
Glass Windows in the N. aisle date from the 15th century. In the N. Tran-
sept some traces of old fresco-painting have been discovered, and the
ceiling of the Choik is also coloured. The Screen behind the altar in the
presbytery is of very fine mediaeval workmanship, and has lately been
restored and fitted with statues. Many of the chantries, or mortuary
chapels of the abbots and other monuments deserve attention. The
,

splendid brass of Abbot de la Mare is best seen from the aisle to the S.
of the Presbytery. In the Saints Chapel are the tomb of Duke Humphrey
of Gloucester (d. 1447), brother of Henry V., and the shrine of St. Alban.
A door at the N. end of the transept leads to the Tower, the top of
which commands a magnificent "View.
The Gate, the only remnant of the conventual buildings of the
abbey, stands to the W. of the church. It is a good specimen of
the Perp. style. It was formerly used as a gaol, and is now a school.
About 3 /4 M. to the W. of the abbey stands the ancient Church of St.
Michael, which is interesting as containing the tomb of the great Lord
Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans, who died at Gorhambury
House here in 1626. The monument is by Rysbrack. To reach the church
we turn to the left (W.) on leaving the cathedral and descend to the
bridge over the Ver. The keys are kept by Mr. Monk, shoemaker (to the
left, between the bridge and the church). The present Gorhambury House,
the seat of the Earl of Verulam, f/2 M. to the W. of St. Michael's, is
situated in the midst of a beautiful park, and contains a good collection
of portraits.
St. Albans was the scene of two of the numerous battles fought
during the Wars of the Roses. The scene of the first, which ushered in
the contest, and took place in 1455, is now called the Key Field; the
other was fought in 1461 at Barnard's Heath, to the N. of the town, just
beyond St. Peter's Church.
summer a coach plies daily between St. Albans and London (fare 10s.).
In
For a notice of the remaining stations the chief of which is
,

(212 M.) Hendon, see Baedeker s London. The handsome station of

St. Pancras in (220 M.) London is one of the finest in the world.

c. From Liverpool to London via Sheffield, Grantham,

and Peterborough.
238 M. Railway in 6 hrs. (fares, etc., see p. 345). At first we travel
by the Manchester, Sheffield, <Sc Lincolnshire Railway, which runs in con-
nection with the Great Northern Railway and joins it at Retford (see
p. 361). Through-carriages run from Liverpool to London. —
The express-
trains from Manchester to (203 M.) London by this route perform the journey
in 41/1 hrs. (fares 24s. 6d., 20s., 15s. &jid.}.
From Liverpool to (25M.) Glazebrook, see p. 332. 35 M. Cheadle
(White Hart), with 6930 inhab. 38 M. Stockport, see p. 340. At
;

(43 M.) Godley Junction we join the Manchester line. The train now
enters Longdendale, an elevated moorland district, flanked with hills.
 to London. SHEFFIELD. 44. Route. 359
Longdendale is filled with the huge reservoirs of the Manchester Water
Works, with an aggregate capacity of 5,000,000,000 gallons. The largest
is that at Woodhead (see below), holding 1,235,000,000 gallons.
48 M. Dinting, where the Etherow is crossed by a viaduct 136 ft.
high, is the junction of a short line to (1 M.) Olossop (Norfolk
Arms ;Howard Arms), a town with 17,000 inhab., close to the N.
margin of the Peak (R. 45). —
Beyond (5572 M.) Woodhead we
pass through a tunnel 3 M. long, one end of which is in Cheshire
and the other in Yorkshire. At (5872 M.) Dunford Bridge the
line enters the valley of the Don, which it follows to Sheffield.
64 M. Penistone (Rose fy Crown ; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a
small town with 2255 inhab., is the junction of lines to Hudders-
fleld (p. 339) and Barnsley. —
Our line now turns to the S. Beyoad
(68 M.) Wortley we enter Wharncliffe Chase, a pretty, wooded
district. The hill called the Dragon's Den takes its name from the
tradition that the Dragon of Wantley was slain here. Wharncliffe
Lodge (left) was the home of Lady Mary "Wortley Montague.
76 M. Sheffield. — Railway Stations. Victoria, on the N.E. side of
the town, close to the Don, for the G. N. R. and the Manchester, Sheffield,
& Lincolnshire Eailway. Midland, in Sheaf St., at the S.E. corner of the
town, for the Mid. Railway. — Cab from either station into the town Is.
Hotels. Victoria, connected with the Victoria Station; Wharncliffe,
King St. ; Midland, Midland Station; Royal, Waingate, opposite the Town
Hall. — King's Head; Clarence; Angel; Wainworth Temperance.
Theatres. Theatre Royal, Tudor St.; Alexandra Theatre, Blonk St.
U. S. Consul, Ben. Folsorn, Esq., Bank Buildings, Bank St.
Sheffield, one of the principal manufacturing towns of England,
with 316,288 inhab., lies in the district of Hallamshire, in the West
Riding of Yorkshire at the confluence of the Don and the Sheaf.
,

Though itself unprepossessing and smoke-begrimed, it is pleasantly

situated at the E. base of the range of hills forming the backbone
of England, and its immediate environs are varied and picturesque.
It was described by Horace Walpole as 'one of the foulest towns of
England in the most charming situation'.
The history of Sheffield is comparatively uneventful, and the time of
its foundation is doubtful. At the Norman Conquest it belonged to Earl
Waltheof , the 'last of the Saxon barons', who forfeited his head by an
unsuccessful rising against William the Conqueror. The manor finally came
into the possession of the Howards, whose representative, the Duke of
Norfolk, still owns a large part of the town. Mary, Queen of Scots, passed
twelve years of her captivity here in the custody of the Earl of Shrews-
bury, but the old castle in which part of that time was spent was demolished
in the Civil War. Sheffield seems to have early acquired a reputation
for its blades, and the Miller in the 'Canterbury Tales' is furnished with
a 'Sheffield thwytel in his hose'. In 1736 its population was only 14,105,
and even in 1801 it did not exceed 45,000. In the present century the his-
tory of Sheffield has been closely connected with that of Trades Unionism.
Sheffield enjoys a world-wide reputation for its Cutlery, Files, Silver
and Plated Wares, Armour Plates, Steel Guns, Shells, and other heavy Iron
and Steel Goods. The town itself is almost entirely given over to facto-
ries and business-premises, while the residential suburbs spread up the
slopes of the hills on every side. Few visitors to Sheffield will fail to
take some interest in the wonderful mechanical processes that may here
be studied to perfection, such as file and saw grinding, electro-plating,
plate-rolling, and the conversion of iron into steel by the Bessemer process.
 360 Route 44. WORKSOP. From Liverpool

Almost the only interesting public building is *St. Peter's

Church, in a prominent situation in the centre of the town.
Originally dating from the 14th and 15th cent. (Dec. and Perp.), the
church has undergone considerable alterations at various times; but the
last restoration, in 1876-80, aimed at a return to the ancient plan. The
Shrewsbury Chapel contains monuments of the Earls of Shrewsbury, in-
cluding that of Queen Mary's gaoler (p. 359), with an epitaph by Foxe.
In Church St., to the S. of St. Peter's, is the Cutlers' Hall, in
the Corinthian style, containing a few portraits and busts.
The Cutlers' Company was incorporated in 1624, and the office of
Master Cutler is still the highest honorary dignity that the townspeople
have to bestow. The annual banquet, held on the first Thurs. in Sept.,
is used, like the Lord Mayor's Feast, for a display of political oratory.
The chief privilege of the company is the right of granting trade-marks.
High the E. prolongation of Church St., leads to the Markbt
St.,
Place, with the Meat and Poultry Market. To the N. are the Market
Hall and the Corn Exchange. Adjacent, at the corner of Castle St.,
is the Town Hall. —
The Firth College, at the corner of Bow and
Leopold St., is affiliated to Victoria University (p. 338).
On the W. side of the town, 1 M. from St. Peter's, is the Weston
Park, which is embellished with a statue of Ebenezer Elliot, the
'Corn Law Rhymer', born near Sheffield in 1781. Here also is the
Public Museum (cnpenonMon., Tues., & Sat. 10-9; on "Wed. & Thurs.
10 till dusk), containing antiquities, objects illustrating the local
manufactures, and a gallery of modern pictures. —
Meersbrook Hall,
acquired by the town in 1889 contains the Buskin Museum in-
, ,

cluding paintings (one by Verrocchio), drawings (Turner, Ruskin),

photographs, casts, minerals, coins, etc. The grounds are now a
public park.
About l'/a M. to the S.E. of St. Peter's is the Manor House of the
Earl of Shrewsbury, where Mary, Queen of Scots, spent much of her
time during the 12 years she was in charge of the sixth Earl. A little —
to the W. is Norfolk Park, from which we return to the centre of the
town by the Norfolk Road, passing Shrewsbury Hospital. —
Visits may also
be paid to the Botanical Gardens, to the S.W. of the town (member's
order necessary) and the Cemetery, with the grave of James Montgomery,
;

the poet (also to the S.W.).

Among the interesting points in the environs of Sheffield are the
ruins of Beauchieff Abbey, with the restored church, 4M. to the S.; Wharn-
cliffe Woods (p. 359), to the N,W. ; Worksop and the DukeHes (see below), etc.
Sheffield may also be made a starting-point for a visit to the Derby-
shire Peak (K. 45). Coaches run daily in summer to (12V2 M.) Baslow
(p. 368; for Chatsworth), to (11 V2 M.) Ashopton (p. 370), and to (17 M.) Castle-
ton (p. 369). A good route for walkers ascends the valley of the Rivelin
to (18 M.) the Snake Inn, and crosses thence into Edale (comp. p. 370).
Beyond Sheffield our line runs towards the E. —
80 1/2 M. Wood-
house is the junction for Rotherham and Chesterfield (p. 402), and
(89M.)SWreoafcs for Mansfield. —
92 M. Worksop (Lion ; Royal), an
agricultural town with ll,000inhab., manufactures malt. The Church,
a Norman building with later alterations, is a relic of an old priory.
The district round Worksop is known as the 'Dukeries', from the
number of ducal residences it contains. The most interesting is Wel-
beck Abbey, the seat of the Duke of Portland, which lies 4 M. to the
S. W. It is approached by a tunnel 2 M. long, leading to a curious
series of underground apartments, including a large library, a ball-room,
 to London. GRANTHAM. 44. Route. 361

a picture-gallery (with good paintings), and a riding-school. — Worksop

Manor, adjoining the town on the S.W., has been sold by the Duchess of
Norfolk to the Duke of Newcastle. — Clumber Park, the seat of the
Duke of Newcastle, lies % 1/t M. to the S.E. It contains a good collection
of portraits.— Other fine country-houses within access are Thoresby, the
seat of Earl Manvers (formerly of the Duke of Kingston), and Rufford
Abbey, belonging to Capt. Saville. All these mansions are surrounded with
finely-wooded parks, open to the public. — About 10 M. to the 8. is Sher-
wood Forest, the greenwood home of Robin Hood, still containing many
fine trees. Ollerton (Hop Pole) affords good headquarters.
At (100 M.) Retford (White Hart) the train joins the main line
of the G. N. railway and turns to the S.
Retford is also the junction of a line running N.E. to Gainsborough, Hull
(p. 425), and Grimsby (p. 426).
The region now traversed is famous for its fruit-culture. —
118 M. Newark -on -Trent (Clinton Arms; Midland; Saracen's
Head; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), an old town with 14,000 inhab. and
large breweries.
The Castle Grounds were opened as a public garden in 1889.
The old Castle, dating from the 12th cent., was dismantled after sus-
taining three sieges in the Civil War. King John died here in 1216. The
Parish Church, a Perp. edifice with a lofty spire, contains an unusually fine
brass. — Newark is the junction of the Nottingham and Lincoln line (see
R. 55) and of a line to Melton Mowbray (p. 352).
At (129 M.) Barkstone a branch-line diverges on the left to
Boston (p. 429) and Lincoln (p. 426).
133 M. Grantham (Angel, well spoken of; George, both near
the church, lfc M. from the station; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is
a small and ancient town with 17,000 inhab. and large iron-
works. Its principal attraction is its fine church, to reach which
we turn to the left on leaving the station (on the side next the town).
On the way we cross St. Peter's Hill, an open space adorned with a
statue of Sir Isaac JVeicton (1642-1727), who was born at Woolsthorpe,
7 M. to the W., and educated at Grantham grammar-school. The
*Ch reft of St.Wulfram is a handsome structure, mainly in the E. E.
style of the 13th century. It has a graceful spire, 280 ft. high, and
contains some interesting monuments.
The Angel Inn is a quaint old building, formerly belonging to the
Knights Templar and dating from the 13th cent., when King John is said
to have held a court here (1213). It was here, too, that Richard IH. signed
the death-warrant of the Duke of Buckingham.
Grantham is the first stopping-place of the 'Flying Scotsman" express
from London to Edinburgh, after an unbroken run of 105 M. Lines radiate
hence to Nottingham, Lincoln, and Boston (via, Sleaford).
About 3 M. to the N.E. is Belton House, the seat of Earl Brownlow,
with some good paintings. — Belvoir Castle, the seat of the Duke of
Rutland, 5 M. to the W., contains tapestry, armour, and pictures.
From (150 M.) Essendine a branch-line diverges on the left to
Spalding and Boston, and another on the right to (4 M.) Stamford.
Stamford (Oeorge; Stamford Arms) is an ancient town, with four fine
churches, two old gateways, and the scanty remains of a priory. The
'Stamford Mercury' was the earliest English newspaper (1712). About
l'/2 M. to the S. is Burghley House (open 11-5), the seat of the Marquis
of Exeter, a fine Renaissance building, with some good paintings, and
carvings by Grinling Gibbons. —At Bourn, on the line to Sleaford, was
 ;

362 Route 44. PETERBOROUGH. From Liverpool

the ancient Saxon camp, in which 'Hereward, the last of the English',
made so determined a stand against the Conqueror.
162 M. Peterborough (*GVeat Northern Hotel, at the G. N. R.
station, R. &
A. 4s. ; Angel, Bull, in the town), an ancient city
with 22,400 inhab., ontheiVene. To reach its celebrated cathedral
we walk straight from the station towards the E., passing the
Church of St. John (lately restored), with a 15th cent, tower, and
crossing the market-place.
The *Cathedral is one of the most important Norman churches
left in England, though the first glance at the exterior does not
seem to bear out this assertion. The elaborate and somewhat for-
eign-looking * West Fafade, with its recessed arches (81 ft. high),
gables, paTvise, and sculptures, is, however, a later addition (ca.
1220?), and forms, as it were, a screen in front of the original "W.
wall. The cathedral is 471 ft. long, 81 ft. wide, and 81 ft. high
the great transept is 202 ft. in length, and the N.W. tower 188 ft.
high. The daily services are at 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. The building,
now being restored, is open free of charge adm. to the tower 6<Z.
;

The present building is the third church on this site. The first was
founded by Peada, King of Mercia, in 656, as the church of the Bene-
dictine monastery of Medeshamstede, which afterwards became one of the
most important of English abbeys. This church was destroyed by the
Danes in 870-3. The second was founded in 971 and burned down in
1116. The oldest part now standing is the choir, consecrated about 1140.
The great transept dates from 1155-77, the late-Norman nave from 1177-93,
and the W. transepts, in the Transition style, from 1193-1200 (see above).
A series of uniform Dec. windows was added throughout the church in
the 14th cent., and the retro-choir, or 'New Building', is a Perp. fan-vaulted
structure of 1438-1528. The spires and pinnacles of the flanking turrets of
the W. facade are of the Dec. and Perp. periods. The N.W. tower, behind
that of the W. front, was added about 1265-70. The fine central tower,
which was erected in the 14th cent, in place of the Norman lantern, was
condemned as unsafe in 1883, and has been rebuilt by Mr Pearson. Pe-
terborough was made a bishop's see in 1541.
From the market-place we enter the cathedral-precincts by the Western
Gateway, dating originally from 1177-93; to the left is the chancel of the
Becket Chapel (Dec), now used as a museum of natural history. We then
reach a spacious court in front of the W. facade of the cathedral, with
two other old gateways, that on the right leading to the Bishop's Palace,
that on the left to the Deanery (the old Prior's Bowse).
The "Interior gives an impression of unusual lightness for Norman
architecture. In 1643 it suffered very severely from the ieonoclasm of the
Puritans, who destroyed the reredos, the fine stained-glass windows, and
most of the monuments and sculptural decoration. In the course of the
recent restoration it was found that the apparently solid Norman piers
were merely shells filled with rubble, and that their builders had strange-
ly neglected to go down to the solid rock, here only 3-4 ft. below the
original foundations. The clerestory and triforium of the Nave are very
important in size, and the effect produced is remarkably good. The painted
wooden ceiling dates from the 12th century. The arches of the central tower
were changed from circular to pointed at the close of the 14th centurv.
To the N. of the W. door is a portrait of Old Scarlett (d. 1594), the sexton
who buried Catherine of Aragon and Mary Stuart (see p. 363); to the S.
is the ancient Font. —On the E. side of the N. Transept are two blocked-
up arches, leading to the site of the Lady Chapel (1290), of which little re-
mains. The timber roof of the transepts is probably the earliest of the
kind in England. —The Choir or Presbytery has an apsidal termination.
 to London. HUNTINGDON. 44. Route. 363
which is still in situ, standing within the 'new building'. The fine roof
is of the Perp. period. In the N. choir-aisle is the grave of Queen Cathe-
rine of Aragon (d. 1548) ; and in the corresponding part of the 8. aisle
is a slab showing the former resting-place of Mary, Queen of Scott (d. 1587),
whose remains are now in Westminster Abbey (see Baedeker's London).
The monuments of both were destroyed by the Puritans.
Onthe S. side of the nave are the extensive remains of the
Cloisters, the Refectory, and other monastic buildings.
About 2 M. to the W. of Peterborough is Milton Pari. —
The inter-
esting ruined church of *Crowland Abbey (12-15th cent. ; adm. 6<J.), 9V2 M.
to the N. of Peterborough, may be reached by carriage, or by train to
Peakirk or Eye Oreen (see below) each about 5 M. from the abbey.
,
—
Excursions may also be made from Peterborough to Fotheringay and War-
mington (see p. 252).
From Peterborough to Sutton Bridge, 28 M., railway in I1/4 hr.
(fares 3*. 10d., 2». i^id.). The first station is (6 M.) Eye Oreen (see above).
9 M. Thorney, with a ruined abbey. From (21 M.) Wisbech (Rose it Crown),
a small town on the Nene, a line runs E. to Watlington. —
28 M. Sutton
Bridge. Trains from Peterborough run through to (39 M.) Lynn (p. 441),
where they join the lines for Yarmouth, Norwich, etc.
From ^Peterborough to Northampton, see p. 262; to Boston, see p. 429.
Leaving Peterborough , we obtain a good view of the cathedral
to We no w traverse the flat district known as the Fens. From
the left.
(169 M.) Holme a branch diverges to (6 M.) Ramsey (Anchor), with
a few relics of a Benedictine abbey, and (11M.) Somersham, on the
line from Huntingdon to March. About 2 M. to the right of the line
is Stilton, which has given its name to a well-known cheese.
I78Y2 M. Huntingdon (Oeorge; Fountain), a small town on
the Ouse, with 4230 inhab. was the birthplace of Oliver Cromwell
,

(1599-1658), the entry of whose birth is preserved in the register

of St. John's Church. The Grammar School in which the Protector
was educated has been restored. The restored churches of St. Mary
and All Saints are worthy of notice. The poet Coviper (1731-1800)
lived at Huntingdon with the Unwins in 1765-67. To the right,
near the station, is Hinching brook, the seat of the Earl of Sandwich.
From Huntingdon a joint line of the G.N.R. and G.E.R. runs E. to
(6 M.) St. Ives (Unicorn), a place of great antiquity, believed to have been
a Saxon settlement. Its foundation is ascribed to a Persian saint, St. Ivo.
Lines radiate hence to March, Ely (p. 440; Norwich, Yarmouth), and Cam-
bridge (j». 432).
186 M. St. Neofs (Cross Keys), with a good Perp. church. At
(193Y2 M.) Sandy we cross the L.N.W. line from Oxford to Cam-
bridge (p. 356). —
206 M. Hitchin (Sun; Rail. Refresh. Rooms),
a thriving little country-town, with manufactories of lavender-
water. It is the junction of lines to Cambridge and Bedford (comp.
p. 356). —
213 M. Knebworth, with the seat of Lord Lytton. —
220 M. Hatfield (Red Lion ; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a small market-
town on the Lea, with a large church.
Immediately to the E. of the town, in a beautiful park is "Hatfield
,

House, the seat of the Marquis of Salisbury, a stately Jacobean mansion

(1611), containing interesting family-portraits and a valuable collection of
historical MSS. (visitors admitted in the absence of the family). There
are also a few remains of the original palace here, built in the 12th cent,
by the Bishops of Ely, and afterwards a royal residence. It was in this
older house that the Princess Elizabeth received the news of her acces-
 ;;

864 Route 45. DERBYSHIRE PEAK. The Derbyshire

sion to the throne ; and a fine oak in the Park is pointed out as marking
the limits of the walks allowed her while confined here. Charles I. was
also imprisoned for a short time at Hatfield. The grounds are fine.
About 2'/2 M. to the N. of Hatfield is Brocket Ball, successively the resi-
dence of Lord Melbourne (d. 1848) and Lord Palmerston (d. 1865).
From Hatfield lines diverge to St. Albans (p. 357), Luton (p. 357), and
Hertford (Salisbury Arms; comp. Baedeker s London).
231 */2 M
New Southgate, the station for Colney Hatch Lunatic
-

Asylum, the extensive buildings of which lie to the right 233 M. ;

Woodgreen, the station for the Alexandra Palace.

238 M. London (King's Cross), see Baedeker's London.

d. From Liverpool to London via Shrewsbury, Birmingham,

and Oxford.
229 M. Gkeat Western Railway in 6-8 hrs. (fares, see p. 345). Through-
trains run daily by this route; the journey may be broken at Hatton
(p. 244) for a visit to Stratford-on-Avon (p. 245).
The different sections of this route have
been already de-
scribed. From Liverpool to (16'/2 M.) 41 from Chester
Chester, see R. ;

to (42 M.) Shrewsbury, see R. 39 from Shrewsbury to (42 M.) Bir-

;

mingham, see R. 37; from Birmingham to (66 M.) Oxford, see

R. 33; from Oxford to (63 M.) London (Paddington), see R. 30.

45. The Derbyshire Peak.

The known as the Peak includes the high-
hilly district generally s,

lands in the N.W. of Derbyshire and parts of the adjacent counties. It

may be said, roughly, to extend from Ashbourne (p. 373) on the S. to
Qlossop (p. 359) on the N., and from Buxton (p. 370) on the W. to Chester-
field (p. 402) on the E., comprising an area 30 M. long and 22 M. broad.
The district belongs partly to the gritstone, and partly to the limestone
formation. The highest summits are Kinderscout (2080 ft.), on the N. ; Axe
Edge (1810ft.), near Buxton; and Mam Tor (1710ft.), near Castleton. In
spite of the name, the hills have rounded and not pointed summits, and
there is nothing in the scenery which can be called mountainous. The
so-called High Peak, in the N. part of the district, consists mainly of a
series of bleak moorland hills or plateaux, little diversified by wood or
water. The chief centres of attraction are the rocky and wooded valleys,
of the Dove (p. 372), the Derwent (at Matlock, p. 365), and the Wye (Bux-
ton, p. 371) the ancient house of Haddon (p. 366) ; the modern mansion
;

of Ghatsworth (p. 367) ; and the Castleton Caverns (p. 369). All of these may
be visited from Derby, though rather hurriedly, in 4 days. 1st Day: From
Derby by train to Cromford , 16 M. ; from Cromford by road to Matlock,
2 M.; from Matlock by train to Rowsley, 4^2 M. from Kowsley to Had-
;

don Hall by road, 2 M. ; from Haddon to Chatsworth by road , 572 M.

from Chatsworth to Edensor V« M. [Or from Haddon to Edensor 6 M.,
,

leaving Chatsworth for the next morning.] —

2nd Day From Edensor or
:

Chatsworth to Eyam and Castleton by road , 16 M. ; visit the Caverns if

time allows, ascend Mam, Tor. —
3rd Day: From Castleton to Chapel-en-
;

le-Frilh by road, direct 7V2 M. or through Edale 9-12 M. ; from Chapel-

en-le-Frith to Buxton by railway; from Buxton through Cheedale to Mill-
ers Dale on foot, 6 M. ; back to Buxton by train. [Or we may go on
by train from Miller's Dale to Bakewell, and walk or drive thence to
(11 M.) Alstonefield.] —
4th Day: From Buxton to Alstonefield by road,
14 M.; through Dovedale by footpath, 4 M. ; from the lower end of Dove-
dale to Ashbourne by road , 4 M. ; from Ashbourne to Derby by railway,
30 M. — The round may be equally well made in the opposite direction
and those staying in Manchester may begin it at Buxton (train from Man-
 Peak. MATLOCK. 45. Route. 365
cheater to Buxton in 1-iVa hr.; fares 3*. 9d. , 2*. 9<T , 1*. ii'/WO- The
Peak may also be approached from Sheffield (comp. p. 360).
Railway from Derby to (16 M.) Cromford, see R. 44b. Cromford
lies at the lower (S.) end of the narrow part of the Derwent Valley,
the picturesque limestone formations of which have made Matlock
famous. The direct Toad to (1 M.) Matlock turns to the right, a
few hundred yards from the station, beyond the bridge.
A pleasant round may be made by turning to the left and proceeding
through the village and along the Wirksworth road to the (IV2 M.) Black
Bocks, a good point of view. We then follow the road to O/2 M.) Middleton
Cross, turn to the right, and at the (IV2M.) farther end of Middleton follow the
road slanting down the hill to O/2 M.) Rider Point. Here we turn to the right
and descend the valley called the Via Gellia to (1 M.) the Pig of Lead Inn,
whence we proceed to the left to P/2 M.) Bonsall and (IV2 M.) Matlock Bath.
Matlock. — Hotels. At Matlock Bath: 'New Bath, with baths and
a wonderful lime-tree in the garden, D. As. Gd., R. & A. from 4«., board
Ss. ; Royal, with baths ; Temple ; Tekeace ; these first-class, on the hill-
side, with views. — Rutland Akms, Devonshire, Hodgkinson's, plain.
— At Matlock Bridge: Old English; Crown; Brown's Temperance. —
At Matlock Bank: Queen's Head; Wheatsheaf, both unpretending. Also
Smedley's, Matlock Hodse, Rockside, and several other hydropathics.
Excursion-Brakes in summer to Eaddon, Chatsworth, Dovedale, etc.
As there are several Malverns (see p. 189) , so there are also
four Matlocks — Matlock Bath , Matlock Bridge , Matlock Village,
and Matlock Bank — extending along the Derwent for about 2 M.
and containing a joint population of about 6000. The first of these
is situated in the very centre of the romantic gorge which the Der-
went here forms, and is the best headquarters for tourists. Matlock
Bridge lies in the floor of the valley, at the N. end of the gorge,
and is the railway-station for Matlock Bank, situated on the hill-
side above, and consisting to a great extent of hydropathic estab-
lishments, boarding-houses, and lodgings. Matlock Village lies on
the N. side of the High Tor, opposite Matlock Bank. The tepid
springs (68°), for bathing, are at Matlock Bath, and may be used at
the New Bath Hotel, the Royal Hotel, and the Fountain Baths. —
Directions for finding the way to points of interest in the vicinity
are unnecessary, as the sign-posts and placards are only too con-
spicuous.
On the right (E.) side of the ravine, opposite Matlock Bath, is the
"High Tor, an abrupt limestone rock, rising 400 ft. above the river and
commanding a good 'View of the valley (adm. id.). At the top, on the
side farthest from the valley, is the so-called "Fern Cave (adm. id.), a
curious narrow fissure in the rock, 150 ft. deep. The Roman Cave is a
similar but less striking crevice. The large house on the hill to the E. is
Riber Ball, built by Mr. Smedley of the hydropathic establishment. A new
carriage-drive leads from the top of the High Tor to Matlock Bridge and
Village.
On the W. side of the valley rise the Heights of Abraham, (adm. Gd.
"View), a buttress of the Masson (1110 ft.). Near the tower marking the
Heights are the Rutland Cavern (adm. Gd.) and the Old Roman Cave.
On the side of the hill, at the back of the Matlock Bath hotels, are
the 'Recreation Grounds (adm. Gd.; '-Views), containing a Concert Pavilion
and the Victoria and Speedwell Caverns. — Of the other caverns at Matlock
(very inferior to those of Castleton, p. 369) the best is the Cumberland
Cave* (adm. Gd.). — A visit may be paid to one of the Petrifying Wells
366 Route 45. HADDON. The Derbyshire

(adm. 'id.). —
The new "Promenades, on both hanks of the Derwent, are
to be connected by an ornamental bridge.
Longer excursions may be made to Bonsall, Cromford, and the Black
Bocks; to (6 M.) Crich Stand (view) and thence to (2V2 MO the ruins of
Wingfield Manor; to the (9 M.) Rowtor Rocks; to (12 M.) Chesterfield
(p. 402); to B addon and Chatsworth; and to (9 M.) Lathkill Dale.
Railway prom Matlock Bridge to (4^2 M.) Rowslby, see
R. 44b. — DarleyDaleis the best station for a visit to the picturesque
Rowtor Rocks (3 M. to the W. entered through the Druid Inn).
;

Rowsley (* Peacock Inn), a small village pleasantly situated

at the confluence of the Wye and the Derwent, is the starting-point
for a visit to (l'/^M.) Haddon Hall. Excursion-brakes ply to Had-
don (6d.) and Chatsworth (Is.).
The road to Haddon turns to the left at the station and passes under
the bridge. At the 'Peacock' we follow the road to the extreme left and
reach (1 M.) a bridge over the Wye. Here we leave the road by a stile
to the right, on this side of the bridge, and follow a path (indistinct at
first) along the river and through the park to (10 min.) Haddon Hall.

*Haddon Hall, picturesquely situated on a slope rising from the

Wye, is an almost ideal specimen of an old English baronial man-
sion, and, though unoccupied, is still in fair preservation (adm.
free gratuity to the custodian).
;

Held at an early period by the Avenel family, Haddon came in the

12th cent, into the hands of the Vernons, who retained possession of it
for 400 years. By the marriage of the fair Dorothy Vernon (see below) it
passed to the Rutland family, who still own it, though the Duke lives at
Belvoir (p. 361). The building encloses two court-yards. The N.E. tower
and part of the chapel are late-Norman; the great banqueting-hall. be-
tween the two courts, and most of the adjoining block date from the l4th,
the E. range of buildings from the 15th, and the S. facade and the ter-
raced gardens from the end of the 16th century.
Interior. The rooms are generally shown in the following order. The
Chaplain's Room, containing a pair of jack-boots, a leathern doublet, etc.;
the "Chapel, with some fine Norman work and a stained-glass window
of the 15th century; the Kitchen, with enormous fire-places; the "Ban-
queting Hall, 35 ft. long and 25 ft. wide, with a dais, a minstrels' gal-
lery, and some old paintings; the panelled Dining Room, with an oriel
window overlooking the garden; the Drawing Room, hung with old
tapestry; the EarVs Dressing • Room and Bedroom; the fine "Ball Room
or Gallery, 100 ft. long, with oaken wainscoting and floor; the Ante-
Room; the State Bedroom, hung with tapestry, with a bed, dressing-
table, and looking-glass said to have been used by Queen Elizabeth;
the Archers' Room, in the oldest part of the building; and the Eagle or
PeveriVs Tower, the top of which commands a fine view. We
then_ return
to the Ante-Room (see above) and descend to the garden by a flightof
steps, said to have been used by Dorothy Vernon when she eloped with
Sir George Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland (16th cent.). The charming
"View here of the S. facade, the terrace, and the old yew-trees is
familiar from engravings and photographs.
To reach Chatsworth from Haddon by carriage (pedestrian route,
see p. 367), without returning to Rowsley, we follow the road from
the above-mentioned bridge to (2*/2 M.) Bakewell {Rutland Arms,
frequented by anglers), the 'Badequelle' of Domesday, a delight-
fully situated little town, with 2500 inhabitants. The large*C7wrcft,
with its lofty octagonal spire, has a Norman doorway, and contains
an ancient font and the monument of Dorothy Vernon (d. 1584)
 Peak. CHATSWORTH. 42. Route. 367

and her husband (see above). A Cross in the churchyard is believed

to date from the 8th or 9th century. The baths are unimportant.
About i*lt M. to the N.W. of Bakewell is the village of Athford
(Devonshire Arms), with a pretty church. The walk may be continued
to (iy» M.) Montal Dale (p. 350).
At Bakewell we turn to the right and proceed by a circuitous
route (direct path 1 M. shorter) to (3!/2 M.) Edensor (*Chatsworth
Hotel), a model village, on the outskirts of Chatsworth Park. The
church contains a memorial-window to Lord Frederick Cavendish
(assassinated in 1882), who is buried in the churchyard.
Direct Walk from Haddon to Chatsworth, 3y2 M. (iy«-lVs hr.).
We ascend the flight of steps by the cottage opposite the entrance
to Haddon and follow a footpath, which almost immediately joins a
cart-track. The track passes to the left of an old bowling-green and
ascends by a fence, and at the top, to the left, follows a wall, to
(8-10 min.) a gate, opening on a lane. To the right is a farm-house. We
pass through (2 min.) another gate and follow a green lane. At (9 min.)
a gateway, with two stone posts but no gate, we keep to the left branch
of the lane and cross a ridge between two valleys. At the end of the
ridge we enter the wood by a (3 min.) gate and after 8 min. more ascend
to the left. We then (1 min.) ascend to the right by a track skirting
a drain. At (4 min.) the top of the wooded hill we proceed to the
left along the wall for 180 yds. to a gate, passing through which we cross
a field diagonally to (5 min.) another gate. This opens into a beech-plan-
tation, on leaving which we emerge upon a sloping pasture. The path is
now indistinct, but by bearing a little to the left, somewhat in the line of
a dry water-course, we reach (7-8 min.) a stile in a wall, opposite a dam,
which crosses a small pool to the left of a farm-house. In ascending the
cart-road on the other side we keep to the right beyond the gate, and
come te (5 min.) a broad green drive. Here we proceed to the right,
towards the lodge, and at the end of the drive enter the wood by a
(3 min.) stile adjoining a gate. The path crosses another green drive and
enters Chatsworth Park by (5 min.) another stile. Chatsworth is now in
sight; the way to the O/4 hr.) bridge is to the left.
*Chatsworth, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Devonshire,
is a striking contrast to Haddon , the one being as redolent of
modern, as the other of mediaeval state.
The huge Palladian residence of the Cavendishes, 560 ft. long, was
built in 1687-1706, on the site of an earlier edifice, in which Mary Stuart
was for a time a prisoner. The N. wing was added in 1820. The interior
contains a large collection of paintings, drawings, and sculptures by emi-
nent masters, exquisite wood-carvings ascribed to Grinling Gibbons, and
historical and other curiosities. Visitors are admitted from 11 to 4, on
Sat. 11-1 (gratuity to the attendant).
Interior. Passing through the handsome iron gates, we are conducted
to the Sob-Hall, where we await the attendant. The Great Hall (60 ft.
long), is adorned with frescoes by Verrio and Laguerre. The Chapel, with
the altar at the W. end, is lavishly embellished with marble, Derbyshire
spar, wood-carving, and paintings by Verrio. The State Apartments, in the
third story, are adorned with wood-carvings, Derbyshire spar and marble,
and paintings by Verrio and Thorrihill. The State Dressing Boom contains
a piece of wood-carving in imitation of point-lace. In the Old State
Bedroom, the walls of which are hung with stamped leather, are
the coronation - chairs of George IV. and Queen Charlotte, and in the
Music Boom are those of William IV. and Queen Adelaide. Behind a half-
open door is a clever piece of illusive painting by Verrio (a fiddle on the
wall). The State Drawing -Room contains Gobelins tapestry from Ra-
phael's cartoons. The State Dining-Room has some fine wood-carving.
On the central table lies the rosary of Henry VIII. The Corridors of
 ;

368 Route 42. EYAM. The Derbyshire

the third story form the "Sketch Gallery, containing upwards of 1000
original drawings by Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Titian
Correggio, Rubens, Rembrandt, Diirer, Holbein, Claude Lorrain, and other
great masters (admirably lighted). — We now descend to the "Picture
Galleet, which contains works by Van EycJe, Tenters, Titian, Tintoretto
Murillo, Holbein, etc. It is adjoined by the Billiard Room, with well-
known works by Sir Edwin Landseer. — The chief treasure of the Library
is Claude's 'Liber Veritatis'.— The '"Sculpture Gallery, adjoined by the
"Orangery, contains a Venus by Thorvaldsen (with a bracelet) ; Napoleon
Napoleon's Mother, and Endymion, by Canova; a Girl spinning by Scha-
dow, etc.
From the Orangery we enter the 'Gardens (small fee to the gardener)
which are fine but formal, with artificial cascades, fountains, surprise water-
works, etc. The Emperor Fountain throws a jet 265 ft. high. The Great Con-
servatory, 280 ft. long, was erected from a design by Sir Joseph Paxton, the
builder of the Crystal Palace, who was at the time head-gardener to the Duke
of Devonshire. — On a height to the N.B. of the house is the Hunting
Tower (90 ft. high), commanding an extensive view. Queen Mary's Bower
a low square tower surrounded by a moat, near the bridge over the Wye'
'

is said to have been a frequent resort of Mary Stuart (see p. 367).

"Chatsworth Park is 9 M. in circumference.
From Chatsworth or Edensor we now strike northwards towards
(16 M.) Castleton by road (no public conveyance).
Those who prefer it may return to Bakewell (p. 366) and take the train
thence to Chapel-en-le- Frith (p. 370), which is 8 M. from Castleton.
About 1/-2 M. from the Chatsworth Hotel, at the fork, we take
the right branch, which leads to (IV2 M.J Baslow (Peacock Royal ;

*Hydropathic), a pleasant-lying village, from which coaches ply in

summer to (12>/2 M.) Sheffield (p. 360 fare is. 6d.). Beyond Bas-
;

low the road skirts the left bank of the Derwent, which it crosses
near (IV2 M.) an Inn, where we turn to the left and pass the vil-
lage of Calver (to the left). At (}/3 M.) another Inn the main road
to Castleton via Hathersage (p. 369) diverges to the right. We go
straight on and soon reach ( 2/3 M.) Stoney Middleton (Moon Inn),
beyond which we enter the rocky Middleton Dale. After 3/4 M. the
road to (^ M.) Eyam turns to the right.
The road ascending straight through the dale leads to (5 M.) Tideswell
(George; Cross Daggers), a small town with a fine Dec. ''Church. Tides-
well is 5 M. due S. of Castleton, and 3 M. to the N. of Miller's Dale (p. 371).
Eyam (Bull's Head), pron. 'Eem', a prettily-situated village
with 1000 inhab. is memorable for its terrible visitation by the
,

plague in 1665-6, which carried off 260 out of its 350 inhabitants.
Thanks mainly to the heroic exertions of the rector, the Rev. Wil-
liam Mompesson, the village was strictly isolated from the rest of the
country-side, and the plague thus prevented from spreading. The rector
himself escaped, but he lost his wife. The victims of the disease were
generally buried near the spot where they died, and the fields round
Eyam are'sprinkled with tombstones. The churchyard contains a Saxon
Cross. Near the church is an arched rock, known as Cucklet Church, which
Mr. Mompesson used as a pulpit during the plague. A pleasant path leads
from Eyam across the moors to (5 M.) Hathersage (see p. 369).
To continue our route to Castleton via. Hathersage we follow the
road leading to the E. from Eyam, which affords a view of Mid-
leton Dale and the tower of Stoney Middleton church to the right.
After about 1 M. we turn to the left, and 3/4 M. farther on we rejoin
the main road through the Derwent valley (comp. above). Beyond
 Peak. CASTLETON. 45. Route. 369

(Y2 M.) Qrindleford Bridge (Inn) the road runs through a narrow
and flnely-wooded part of the valley, which farther on again expands.
3 M. Hathersage (George, well spoken of; Ordnance Arms), a vil-
lage which manufactures pins and needles.
The church, dating from the 14th cent., contains some good brasses.
The grave of Little John, the lieutenant of Robin Hood, is pointed out
in the churchyard. — About M. to the
l : /4 W. are Biggar Tor and an
interesting British fort named Carl Work.
Our road now leads to the "W. through Hope Dale. At (2 M.)
Mytham Bridge (Inn) we leave the Derwent, which turns to the N.
(to Ashopton, p. 370, 3 M.), and follow its affluent the Noe. At
(2i/ M.) Hope (Hall Inn) the road to Edale
(p. 370) diverges to
2
the right. —
l 1 /^ M. Castleton (Castle; Bull's Head), at the head
of Hope Dale, the centre for excursions in the wilder N. part of
is
the Peak. Perched on a steep rocky height (260 ft.) above the
village is Peveril Castle, a stronghold taking name from its first
owner, the natural son of William the Conqueror (adm. Id.; view).
The Church contains a fine Norman archway between the nave and
the chancel. The Museum contains Derbyshire spar, etc.
The three Caverns all lie near, and may be visited in half-a-day. Those
who are pressed for time should at least view the entrance of the Peak
Cavern and descend the Blue John Mine. The charge for admission to
each cavern is 2*. for 1, 3«. 6d. for 2, 4«. 6d. for 3, 5*. for 4-5 pers., and
1j. for each pers. additional. Bengal lights extra. Guides are in atten-
dance all day.
The Peak Cavern, at the foot of the castle-rock, extends for upwards
of 2000 ft. into the hill. Its arched entrance (42 ft. high) is imposing;
the other features of interest include a chamber 220 ft. square, a subter-
ranean river known as the Styx, and several natural archways. The view
of the landscape, framed in the entrance as we come out, is striking.
The Speedwell Cavern lies about %
M. to the W., at the foot of the
Winnats (see below). We descend by a rocky staircase to a subterranean
canal >/a M. long, driven into the hill by miners in an unsuccessful search
for lead-ore. We traverse this canal in a boat; and at the end of it
reach a large 'Cavern, where the water is precipitated into an abyss of
unknown depth. The height of the roof has not been gauged ; but it is
estimated that the floor is about 850 ft. below the surface of the hill. Ner-
vous persons are advised to leave the Speedwell unvisited, as the passage
of the canal is decidedly 'eerie'.
The "Blue John Mine V2 M. to the W. of the Speedwell
lies about
Mine. From the beautiful shape and loftiness of its chambers, the
fine incrustations and crystallisations, and the great depth to which we
descend by a natural vertical passage, this is perhaps the most interesting
of the three. This gigantic chasm seems to have been formed by a con-
vulsion of nature not by water. The Blue John Mine is the only place
,

where the beautiful spar of that name is found.

The best route from the Speedwell Mine to the Blue. John Mine is
through the *Winnats (i.e. Wind Gates), a turf- grown mountain -pass,
1 M. long, flanked with tall limestone rocks.
A little farther to the W. rises Mam Tor (1710 ft.), the top of which
affords a good view of Hope Dale, Edale, Kinder Scout, and Eyam Moor.
The name of 'Shivering Mountain' is given to this hill from the liability
of its S. face to disintegration from frost. —
A pleasant walk (2 hrs.)
leads from Castleton to Ashopton (see p. 370) via Win Hill (1530 ft.).
Coach to Sheffield (fare It. 6d.), see p. 360. A public conveyance
also runs in summer to Buxton (ll'/s M. ; fare 2*.).
The Dibbct Routb from Castleton to (8M.) Chapbl-en-lb-
Babdeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit, 24
 ;;

370 Route 45. CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH. The Derbyshire

Frith leads to the W., passing the Blue John Mine and the S. side
of Mam Tor. It is worth while, however, to make the detour through
Edale (see below), which adds about l 1 /^ M. to the distance for
walkers and 5-6 M. for drivers while those who keep to the direct
;

route should diverge to the right by the road between Mam Tor and
Lord's Seat in order to obtain a peep at the green Edale valley.
To reach Edale from Castleton by road, we retrace our steps to
(l'/2 M.) Hope (p. 369), and then follow the road along the Noe to the left.
4 M. Car House; 1 M. Lady Booth; 3/4 M. Edale Mill, beyond which a road
leads to the right to Oiler Brook Booth. About '/a M. farther on we reach
another road to the right, ascending to O/3 M.) the village of Edale (Inn).
— "Walkers, however, may proceed direct from Castleton to Edale by a
footpath crossing the ridge between Mam Tor and Back Tor, reaching the
road above described at a point a little short of (2 !/2 M.) Edale Mill.
Edale is a sequestered and somewhat bleak little valley, watered by the
Noe and enclosed by dusky green or moorland hills with great variety of
outline. The hills to the N. belong to the plateau of Kinder Scout (2080 ft.),
the highest part of the Peak while to the S. are Lose Hill (1570 ft.), Back
;

Tor, Mam Tor (see above), and Lord^s Seat (1818 ft.). Those who have
time should ascend Orindslow, at the back of Edale village, for the view
and they may prolong their walk thence across the plateau (no right of
way) to the (4 M.) Snake Inn, in Ashopdale, 7 M. from Glossop (p. 359)
and 6V2 M. above Ashopton (p. 360).
Carriages continue from Edale village to follow the road on the
floor of the valley to (1 M.) Barber Booth, where they turn to the left and
ascend the steep hill leading to the gap between Mam Tor and Lord's Seat
(comp. above) and to the (l'/4 M.) high-road. Pedestrians save nearly
2 M. by a footpath ascending from Barber Booth to the S.W. towards the
Stake Pass and joining the Chapel-en-le-Prith road a good deal lower
down (a boy may be taken as a guide from Barber Booth). — The road
going straight up the valley from Barber Booth ends in a path leading to
(3M.) Edale Cross (1800 ft.) and (31/2 M.) Hayfield (see below).
The road descending between Mam
Tor and Lord's Seat to Edale
(see above) is about 3*/2 M. from Castleton. The high-road con-
tinues to run towards the W. Roads diverge on the right for Hay-
field (see above). After 4 M. we reach (J 1 ^
M. from Castleton) —
Chapel-en-le-Frith. (King's Arms ; BulVs Head), a town with
3500 inhab. (comp. p. 350). The Midland Station (p. 349) is in
the town the L. N. W. Station, on the Manchester and Buxton
;

branch, is 3/j M. to the S. By the latter line the railway-journey

to Buxton takes about
y4 hr. by the former (via Miller's Dale,
,

p. 372) about 1/2 It. (fares Is., 8d., 5i/2 d.). The Mid. Railway
passes under the L. N. W. Railway by the Doveholes Tunnel (p. 350).
Buxton. — Hotels. Palace, near the stations, R. & A. from 5s. 6d., D.
5a., B. 2s. 6d., 'pens'. 14s. 6d. ; St. Ann's, in the Crescent, R. & A. from
4s. 6d., 'pens'. 13s. 6<Z.; Crescent, also in the Crescent, R. & A. from
4s., 'pens'. 12s. 6<Z.
; Royal, R. & A. from 4s., 'pens', in winter 10s. 6<f .

"Old Hall, family hotel, facing the entrance to the Gardens, R. & A.
from is. 6d., 'pens'. 12s. —Lea Wood, on the Manchester Road; Burling-
ton George ; Shakespeare, commercial ; Eagle, in High Buxton, R. & A.
;

from 3s. Gd. — At the Buxton hotels the prevailing custom is to have
table-d'hote meals and pay a fixed price per day. — Numerous Boarding
Houses and Lodgings, and several small Hydropathics.
Cahs with one horse Is. per mile, each addit. '/a M. Gd. ; with two
horses Is. (id. & $d.; per hour 3s. & is., each addit. '/4 hr. 9d. & Is.
Buxton, one of the three chief inland watering-places in Eng-
 Peak. BUXTON. 45. Route. 871

land and the highest town in the country (1000 ft. above the sea),
contains a resident population of about 6000, which is doubled or
trebled during the summer-season. It has a fine bracing climate,
apt at times to be rather cold. The Hot Springs for which it is
famous (Bath having the only other hot springs in England) seem
to have been known to the Romans, and were several times
visited by Mary Stuart when in the custody of the Earl of Shrews-
bury (comp. p. 359). They rise from fissures in the limestone rpck
at a constant temperature of 82° Fahr. , and are efficacious in rheu-
matism and other ailments. The Tepid Baths are at the W. end of
the Crescent, the most prominent building in the town, and they
are adjoined by the Chalybeate Wells. At the other end of the
Crescent are the Hot Baths. In front of the Orescent is a grassy
knoll known as the Slopes, and to the W. are the Pleasure Gardens
(adm. id. or Gd. ; music daily). The S. side of the Gardens is
skirted by the Broad Walk, with its well-built villas. The large
domed building, near the Palace Hotel, is the Devonshire Hospital.
The Environs of Buxton are rather bleak, but afford opportuni-
ties for a few delightful excursions.
Poole's Cavern, 1 M. At the end of the Broad Walk is a board in-
dicating the path to this cave, which crosses two fields and passes Buxton
College. At the road we turn to the right, and after 100 yds. reach the
entrance to the cavern (adm. is. ; for a party 6<J. each). Poole's Hole,
named after an outlaw who used it in the time of Henry IV. (ca. 1400), con-
tains some fine stalactites, but is inferior to the Castleton Caves (p. 369),
and has been vulgarised by being lighted with gas. The Wye rises here.
The Duke's Drive is a carriage-road about l'/4 M. long , constructed
by the Duke of Devonshire in 1795, and connecting the lower road through
Ashwood Dale with the higher one to Longnor. It begins and ends not
much more than Vz M. from Buxton , so that the round is about 2 1 /2 M.
Excursion-brakes run daily (return -fare 1*. 6d.) to the (5 M.) Cat A-
Fiddle Inn (ca. 1700 ft.) , on the road to Macclesfield, the highest inn in
England (extensive view). — Walkers may combine with this excursion
an ascent of Axe Edge (1810 ft.), the second summit of the Peak, which
rises 2>/2 M. to the S. of Buxton. — Other favourite points are ~Cheedale
(p. 372); the Corbar Wood Walks, Hi M. to the N.W.; the Diamond Bill
(named from the quartz crystals found on it) , l'/2 M. to the S. ; Solo-
mon's Temple, 1 /i M. beyond Poole's Hole; the Qoyt Valley (p. 349), to
theN.W.; and the rocky chasm called LuiTs Church, 9 M. to the S.W. —
Coaches ply in summer to Haddon and Chatsworth (pp. 366, 367; return-
fare 5s. 6<Z.).
From Buxton through Chebdalb to Miller's Dalb, 6M. We
leave Lower Buxton by Spring Gardens and follow the Bakewell
road through Ashwood Dale. On the right we pass (1 M.) Sherwood
Dell and the cliff called the Lover's Leap. At a point about 3Y4M.
from Buxton, after passing under the Midland Railway 3-4 times,
we diverge to the left by a well-marked track and cross the Wye
by a bridge near the junction of the main line with the Buxton
branch. Wethen follow closely the left bank of the river, keeping
to the lower paths, and not crossing the flat wooden bridge a little
lower down. After about V2 hr. the stream sweeps to the left and
we cross it by a plank-bridge. We
then again pass under the rail-
24*
§72 Route 45. DOVEDALE.
way, recross the river, and reach the entrance to *Cheedale, a nar-
row valley flanked by fantastic and well-wooded walls of limestone
rock. Chee Tor (fine view) rises boldly on the right to a height of
300 ft. [The path, which is rather rough and very miry after rain,
is closed on Thursdays.] Farther on we pass through a small wood,
cross a side-valley and reach a wooden bridge , which we cross
,

if we wish to climb Chee Tor. If not, we follow the left bank to

(!/4 hr.) Miller's Dale (Inn p. 350).
;
—
We now either return to
Buxton, or go on to Bakewell (p. 366) by train.
From Buxton to (14 M.) Alstonefield, a pleasant drive (ex-
cursion-brakes in summer). The road runs S.E. from Higher Bux-
ton. To the right above us is the High Peak Railway (p. 350).
, ,

Beyond (5 M.) Glutton Dale we cross the Dove. — 2 M. Longnor

(Crewe Arms), a small market-town in a pleasant situation.
Good walkers may follow a footpath along the left bank of the Dove
to (5 M.) Hartington ("Charles Cotton Hotel), an angling-resort, and (5 M.)
Mill Dale (see below) passing through the charming "Beresford Dale,
,

with the 'Fishing House" of Izaak Walton and his friend and biographer,
Cotton. — On Arbor Low, 3 M. to the N.E. of Hartington, are some ex-
tensive 'Druidieal' remains.
The road follows the valley of the Manifold for some time, and
then strikes off towards the S.E. At (7 M.) Alstonefield (George)
we leave the carriage and follow a footpath leading directly to
(Y2 M.) Mill Dale , a hamlet at the head of Dovedale though the,

prettiest part of the valley begins at Dove Holes, about 1 M. lower

down. *Dovedale is a picturesque and narrow limestone valley,
hemmed in by fantastic rocks, freely interspersed with woods.
Leaving the Dove Hole Caverns, we pass between two limestone crags
and follow the left or Derbyshire bank of the Dove (the other being in
Staffordshire). Various arbitrary names have been given to the rocks,
few of which seem specially appropriate. The Lion's Head, one of the
first we reach, is, however, an exception. Beyond (1 M.) Reynard's Cave
(above, to the left) the vale slightly expands. Farther on, we have the
Tissington Spires to the left and the Church and Twelve Apostles to the right.
From Sharplow Point we have a fine view in both directions; to the S.
rises Thorpe Cloud (900 ft.). At the foot of this hill we reach the stepping-
stones, and a little farther on a foot-bridge, leading to the Izaak Walton
Hotel, a favourite angling resort. A path to the left ascends to the Peveril
Hotel, close to the village of Thorpe. This is the S. end of Dovedale
proper. — Pedestrians bound for (3 3/4 M.) Ashbourne (see p. 373) may
continue to follow the right bank. At (l ! /2 M.) a cross-road (bridge to the
right) we climb a stile and cross a field (path not very distinct). V« M.
Stone bridge, where a road to the right leads to Cheadle. We
cross the
road, pass a house near the river, and go through a gate. —
1V« M„
Mappleton (Oak over Arms). We cross the road and traverse two fields,
reaching the road again a little farther on. In 4 min. more we follow
the cart-track ascending to the left, passing a farm-house. At the top is
a large field, where the path disappears; but by keeping in a straight
direction we reach a stile on the other side of the field, beyond which
the path is again clear. It descends through a park and past a large
house to a gate near a bridge over an affluent of the Dove. From this
point a path crosses a field to a lane leading to Ashbourne station.
[The road from the Peveril Hotel to (4 M.) Ashbourne passes (1 M.)
the Dog & Partridge Inn, where a road to the left leads by the "Via
Gellia (fancifully named after the Gell family) to (12 M.) Matlock (p. 365).]
 LANCASTER. 46. Route. 373

Ashbourne (* Green Man, an old-fashioned hostelry; White

Hart) is a picturesque little town in a well-wooded valley. The
*Church, near the station, is in the E.E. and Dec. styles, with a
lofty spire (212 ft.). Among the interesting monuments is a very
touching one of little *Penelope Boothby (d. 1791), by Banks.
About 4'/2 M. to the W. of Ashbourne is Wootton Hall, where Rousseau
wrote the first part of his 'Confessions' (17G6-7).—A pleasant walk may be
taken by the Weaver Sills and Alton Towers to (10 M.) Alton (see below).
Railway from Ashbouene to Debby, 30 M., in U/t-2 hrs. (fares 2s.
6d., 2s., is. 3d.). — 5 M. Norbury , with a highly interesting church
(14-15th cent.; fine stained glass) and an ancient manor-house. —
At(7M.)
Rocester (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) the pretty 'Churnet Valley Line' diverges
to the right; the first station on it is (3V2 M.) Alton (see p. 347). —11 M.
Uttoxeter (p. 346). 19 M. Tuthury, see p. 188. —
30 M. Derby, see p. 350.

46. From Liverpool or Manchester to Carlisle.

L. N. W. Railway in 372-572 hrs. (fares from Liverpool 18*. lid., 14«.
8d., 9s. lid.; from Manchester 18*., 14«. 3d., 10s. Id.). The two lines unite
at Wigan (see below; V2I hr.). The more frequented line from Man-
chester to Preston runs via Bolton (p. 339).
From Liverpool to (I8Y2M.) Wigan, seep. 331 from Manchester
;

to (18 M.) Wigan, see p. 339. At Wigan (Clarence; Victoria),

an iron, brass, and cotton making town of 50,000 inhab., in an
important coal-district, we join the trunk-line of the L. N.W.R.
Beyond (28 M.) Farington we cross the Ribble (*View to the right).
29 M. Preston (*Park Hotel; Victoria; Bull; Alexandra Temper-
ance; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), an important centre of the cotton-
manufacture, with 100,000 inhabitants. The principal buildings
are the Town Hall, from a design by Sir G. G. Scott ; the Harris
Free Library ty Museum with good sculptures in the pediment by
,

E. Koscoe Mullens; and the Parish Church, partly rebuilt in 1885.

The town possesses three large Public Parks.
Preston is a place of considerable antiquity and was frequently the
scene of contests between the English and the Scots. The Parliament-
arians defeated the Royalists near Preston in 1648, and it was occupied
by the Pretender in 1715. Richard Arkwright, the inventor, was born at
Preston in 1732. Preston was the cradle of the temperance movement,
and the first teetotal pledges were signed here by Joseph Livesey and his
friends in 1833. — Preston is the 'dining station' of the Scottish ex-
presses, which stop here for 20-30 minutes.
From Preston to Blackpool and Fleetwood, 21 M. , railway in
S —
A-1 hr. (fares 3s. 3d., 2s. 6d., Is. 8i/2d.). From (8 M.) Kirkham a branch-
line diverges to the left for the small watering-place of Lytham (Queen),
—
whence it goes on to Blackpool (see below). I4V2M. Poulton is the starting-
point of the regular line to (18 M.) Blackpool (Bailey's Hotel; Clifton Arms;
County; Albion; Imperial Hydropathic), one of the most popular sea-bathing
resorts in the North of England, with a fine esplanade, two piers, a winter
garden, etc. —The direct line from Poulton goes on to (21 M.) Fleetwood
(Crown; Royal; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), a small watering-place and seaport
on the Irish Channel, with a good harbour. Mail-steamers ply hence daily
to Belfast, and there is a summer-service to the Isle of Man (p. 340).
About 3 M. to the S.W. is Rossall School, a large public school (400 boys).
50 M. Lancaster (County; King's Arms; Rail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), the county-town of Lancashire , with 21,000 inhab., lies
near the mouth of the Lune. The Castle, to a great extent rebuilt)
 374 Route 46. PENRIETH. From Liverpool

but retaining its ancient keep

still is now the gaol.
, Adjoining
it isthe Church of St. Mary (15th cent.), containing good stained
glass, some fine oak-carvings, and a few interesting brasses. Ripley
Hospital, to the right of the line before Lancaster, was erected for
orphan children at a cost of 100,000L
Lancaster occupies the site of a lioman station. It was given by Ed-
ward III. to his son, 'Old John of Gaunt, time-honoured Lancaster', and the
duchy of Lancaster is still attached to the Crown. Dr. Whewell and Sir
Richard Owen, the comparative anatomist, were natives of Lancaster.
At Lancaster we cross the Midland branch from Settle (see p. 404),
through the pretty valley of the Lune, to Morecambe (Midland; Crown-
West View; Imperial), another thriving watering-place, 3 M. to the W. of
Lancaster, with a promenade, a pier, etc.
At (53 M.) Hest Bank diverges the L. N. W. branch to (3 M.)
Morecambe (see above) View, to the left, of Morecambe Bay.
. 56 M.—
Carnforth (Station Hotel Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is the junction
;

of the line to Ulverston, Lakeside (Windermere), and Whitehaven

(see R. 47). —
69 M. Oxenholme (Rail. Rfmt. Rooms) is the junction
of the branch to (3 M.) Kendal and (11 M.) Windermere (p. 378).
Kendal (Commercial; King's Arms), the chief town of Westmorland
(14,000 inhah.) is seen to the left as we proceed.
, It still carries on the
manufacture of woollen cloth established by Flemish weavers in the 14th
cent., but 'Kendal Green' is no longer made. On a hill to the E. of the
town are the ruins of a Castle, in which Queen Catherine Parr was born.
The mountains of the Lake District are in sight on the left, and
the scenery becomes more varied. From (78 M.) Low QUI (*View
to the right) a line runs to the right to Ingleton (p. 405). 80 M.
Tebay is the junction of the N.E. line to Darlington (p. 410) and
Bishop Auckland (p. 414). — Beyond Tebay we reach the culmina-
ting point of the line (1000 ft.) and descend to (89 M.) Shap (Hotel;
p. 391). Hawes Water (p. 391) is 51/2 M. to the W. of Shap; and
Kidsty Pike, High St., and other summits of the Lake District are
conspicuous to the left. Beyond (97 M.) Clifton we have a glimpse
on the right of Brougham Hall, the home of Lord Brougham.
101 M. Penrith. (Crown ; George), an ancient market-town, with
9300 inhab. and the remains of an old castle, is the junction of
the line to Keswick and Cockermouth (see below). A small inn,
named the Gloucester Arms, contains a room in which Richard III.
once slept, and some good old oaken panelling. Penrith Beacon,
crowning a wooded height to the N. E. of the town (25 min. from
the station), commands a good view over Ullswater to the Helvellyn
and High Street ranges (comp. p. 389).
About 4 M. to the N.E. of Penrith is Zden Hall, the ancient seat of
the Musgraves, still containing the curious old glass goblet, the legend
attached to which is celebrated in Uhland's well-known ballad, 'The Luck
of Eden Hall' ('Das Gliick von Edenhall'J. — About 3 M. farther on is a
Druidical circle known as Long Meg and her Daughters.
From Penrith to Keswick, Cockermouth, and Workington, 39 M.,
railway in l 3/t hr. (fares 7s. 2d., 5s. Id., 3s. 3d. to Keswick 2s. lid., Is. 10d.,
;

Is. 2d.). As we start we have a view, to the left, of the heights around
Ullswater. 9'/2 M. Troutbeck (Inn) is one of the starting-points for a visit
to Ullswater (see p. 397). The Saddleback (p. 399), seen on the right, may
hje ascended from (14V2 M.) T/irelkeld (see p. 399). To the left opens the
 to Carlisle. CARLISLE. 46. Route. 375
Vale of St. John (p. 396). Beyond Threlkeld the train passes through the
charming valley of the winding Qreta. —
18 M. Keswick, see p. 392.—
The train now runs through the Vale of Keswick to (20 M.) Braithwaite,
beyond which it turns to the N. and skirts the W. bank of Bassen-
thtoaite Lake (p. 400). On the other side of the lake towers Skiddaw (p. 399).
25'/2 M. Bastenthicaile Lake Station (Pheasant Inn), near the N.W. end of
the lake. — We now again turn to the W. — 30V2 M. Cockermouth
(Globe; Reap's Temperance), a small town with the relics of a Norman
castle, was the birthplace of Wordsworth, who dedicated a well-known
sonnet to his native place. Hia father is buried in the church. Lowes
Water (p. 396) is 8 M. to the S. —
39 M. Workington, see p. 377. The trains
go on to (7 M.) Whitehaven (p. 377).
From Penrith to Pooley Bridge (TJllswater), see p. 389.
119 M. Carlisle. — Hotels. '-Countt Station Hotel, connected with
the station by a covered passage, R. & A. 4-5*. ; Central, Bdsh, near the
station, similar charges; Viaduct; Crown & Mitre, commercial; Gra-
ham's Temperance. —Rail. Refreshment Rooms.
Carlisle, an ancient border-city with 36,000 inhab., is pleasantly
situated on a gentle eminence at the confluence of three small rivers,
the Eden, the Caldew, and the Petteril. It is the county-town of
Cumberland, the see of a bishop, and an important railway-centre
(comp. RR.49, 51, 62a), and manufactures textile fabrics and iron.
Carlisle, the British Caer Luel, and the Roman Luguvallium or Lugu-
oallia, is the only purely English city which retains its ancient British
name. At the time of the Saxon invasion it formed part of the kingdom
of Strathclyde, and it withstood the invaders till the 7th century. It
seems to have been destroyed by the Danes 200 years later, and to have
remained almost deserted until William Rufus made it the defence of the
English border and erected its castle. The bishopric was founded in 1133.
At a later period it was an important border-fortress and city of refuge
for the surrounding country. Carlisle submitted to the Young Pretender
in 1745 and was taken by the Hanoverians. Comp. 'Carlisle , by Canon
1

Creighton ('Historic Towns' series; 1889). —

Roman Wall, see p. 376.
The Citadel Railway Station is a large structure covering 7 acres
of ground, and used by eight differentrailway-companies. On issuing
from it (on the N. side) we two massive
find ourselves in front of the
circular Court Houses, built on the site of the former citadel. To
the left is the Oaol. Passing between the court-houses, we follow
English St. to the Market Placb, in which, to the right, is the
Town Mall. Castle St. to the left, leads to the
,
—
Cathedral, which was originally founded by William Rufus as
the church of the Augustine Priory of St. Mary. This Norman
church seems to have been almost wholly burned down some time
before the middle of the 13th cent. and the E. E. choir which
;

replaced the old one was also destroyed by fire in 1292, and again
rebuilt, in the Dec. style, in the following cent, (finished ca.
1400). The Central Tower (ca. 1410) is by no means imposing.
The nave was never rebuilt, and still remains a fragment consisting
of two Norman bays. The whole building was restored in 1853.
The daily services are at 10a.m. and 4p.m. We enter by the N. door.
Interior. The Nave has a different axis from the choir. The fine Norman
arches have been curiously crushed out of shape by the settling of the
piers. The S. Transept contains an interesting Runic inscription (under
glass) and a bust of George Moore (d. 1876), the philanthropist. To the
E. it is adjoined by St. Catharine's Chapel.
 ;

376 Route 16. CARLISLE.

The "Choir is entered by the central doorway to the N. of the organ,

below the tabernacle-arch of the stalls. The lower arches are E. E. the ,

triforium and clerestory Decorated. The glory of the choir is the late-
Dec, or Flamboyant ~E: Window, one of the largest and finest in England,
50 ft. high and 30 ft. broad (glass modern). The wooden ceiling (14th
cent.) has been repainted. The Stalls date from the 15th cent., and their
backs are covered with rude paintings of legendary subjects. Among
the monuments are those oi Dean Close (d. 1882; S. choir-aisle) and Arch-
deacon Paley (d. 1805; behind the altar). At the N.E. angle of the N. choir-
aisle is a door leading to the Clerestory and Tower (adm. Gd. ; fine view).
— Sir Walter Scott was married in Carlisle Cathedral in 1797. To the
S. of the cathedral is the Refectory of St. Mary's Priory (see p. 375) and
two dilapidated arches. The house with the square tower is the Deanery.
Castle St. ends at the Castle, which is now used as barracks and
is open to visitors during the day. From the Outer Bailey we pass,
to the right into the Inner Bailey.
, Extensive view from the bat-
tlements. Visitors are not now admitted to the top of the Norman
Keep erected by Rufus but the custodian (gratuity) shows the
, ,

dungeons in which the prisoners of 1745 were confined, and some

relics of Queen Mary's short captivity here in 1568.
A walk encircles the hill on which the castle stands, passing the only
remains of the old City Walls , also constructed by William Rufus. In —
Finkle St., near the Castle, is a small Museum (open 1-9; adm. 2d.).
Great Roman Wall. During the Roman occupation of Britain a
Vallum, or earthen rampart, was constructed across the N. of England
from the Solway Firth, a little to the W. of Carlisle, to a point on
the North Sea near Newcastle. This was afterwards replaced (probably
by Severus, ca. A.D. 208) by a Stone Wall, 8 ft. thick and 12 ft. high,
which was guarded by 18 Military Stations garrisoned by cohorts of,

Roman soldiers. At intervals of a mile were Forts (80 in all), containing

100 men each, and between each pair of forts were four watch-towers.
Of this huge line of fortifications however the remains are remarkably
, ,

meagre (see p. 418). Carlisle itself was not a station, but the suburb of
Stanwix (Axelodunum), on the other side of the Eden, reached by a hand-
some bridge, was one; and a few remains may be seen there.
Excursions may be made from Carlisle to Corby and Wetheral (p. 417)
"Naworth (p. 417); "Lanercost Priory, 12>/2 M. to the N.E. (usually reached
via Naworth); "Gilsland (p. 417); Eden Hall (p. 374) and Gretna (p. 462);
Holme Cultram Abbey, 18 M. to the W. near Abbey, on the Silloth Railway
,

(see below) ; and Netherby (p. 455), 11 M. to the N.

From Carlisle to Maryport, 28 11., railway in l-D/4 hr. (fares 3s.
lOd. , 2s. lid., 2s. id.). —
Maryport (Senhonse Arms) is a thriving little
coaling-port. From Maryport to Workington, see p. 377.
From Carlisle to Silloth, 22'/'2 M., railway in l-l'/« hr. (fares 2s.
Gd., 2s., Is. Gd.). From (8V2 M.) Drumburgh a branch-line diverges to
(31/2M.) Port Carlisle. —
Silloth (Hotel) is a seaport on the Solway Firth,
with regular steam-communication with Douglas (p. 338), Dublin, and Belfast.
From Carlisle to Newcastle, see R. 51 ; to Edinburgh or Glasgow, see
R. 62; to Leeds and Sheffield, see R. 49.

47. From Carnforth to Ulverston, Windermere (Lake

Side], Furness Abbey, and Whitehaven.
74 M. Railway in 3-3y2 hrs. (fares 12s. Id., 8s. 5d., 5s. 6Vs<*.; fares
to Furness Abbey is. 9<Z., 3s. 2d., 2s. y*d.).
Carnforth, see p. 374. The train skirts MorecambeBay, passing
Silverdale and Arnside, and crosses the estuary of the Kent. 9 M.
Grange -over -Sands (* Grange Hotel), a pretty watering-place.
 ;

WHITEHAVEN. 47. Route. 377

Cartmel Church, 2*/2 M. to the W., is interesting (12th cent.). Near

(13!/2 M.) Carfe is Holker Hall, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire.
We then cross the estuary of the Leven; the Coniston Old Man
(p. 381) is conspicuous to the right.
19 M. Ulverston (County; Sun), a market -town with 10,000
inhab. , is supported mainly by its mines of haematite ore. Con-
ishead Priory, 2 M. to the S.E. (branch - line with one or two
,

trains daily; also omn.), is now a popular hydropathic.

Ulverston the junction of a short line (9Va M., in 25 min.) to Lake
is
Windermere (comp. p. 379). The line skirts the Leven.
Side, at the foot of
Beyond Ulverston we traverse the romantic 'Valley of Nightshade'.
— 25 M. Furness Abbey Station (* Abbey Hotel, R. & A. from 4s.)
The ruins of "Furness Abbey, a Cistercian foundation of the 12th cent.,
are among the most extensive and picturesque in England. The Abbey
was at one time exceedingly rich, and the Abbot exercised an almost
regal sway over the surrounding country. The finest features of the ruins
are the E.E. chapter-house and the triplet of grand Norman arches at the
entrance to the cloisters. In the Abbot's Ohapel are two effigies of Nor-
man knights (12th cent.), said to be the only ones of the kind in England,
26 Y2 M. Roose is the junction of a short branch to (2 M.)
Barrow-in-Furness (Imperial ; Victoria), a thriving seaport with ,

50,000 inhab., magnificent docks, handsome municipal buildings,

and extensive iron-works. [Most of the trains, however, now run
through Barrow.] Steamers ply hence to Douglas (p. 342) and Belfast.
40 M. Foxfield is the junction of the line to (1 M.) Broughton
(p. 382) and Coniston (10 M., in 25 min. see p. 381).
; We now —
cross the estuary of the Duddon (p. 382). From (5772 M.) Rav-
englass (Queen's Head) a branch runs to (7 M.) Boot (Mason's Arms
Woolpack), the nearest station to Wast Water (p. 400). 59 M. —
Drigg (*Inn); 61 M. Seascale(see p. 401). —
69»/2 M. St. Bees (Sea
Cote ; Queen's), with an ancient church and a theological college.
To the left is St. Bees Head, rising 300 ft. above the sea.
74 M. Whitehaven (Grand; Globe; Black Lion), a seaport with
20,000 inhab. and a fine harbour. Steamers to Ramsey, see p. 344.
From Whitehaven the line is prolonged to (7 M.) Workington (Railway
Hotel), a seaport at the mouth of the Deraent, with large steel-works
and important salmon-fisheries, and to (14 M.) Maryport (see p. 376).

48. The Lake District.

The picturesque mountainous region known as the '"English Lake
District is comprised within the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland,
together with a small adjoining portion of Lancashire ; and its boundaries
may be roughly described as the Irish Sea and Morecambe Bay on the W.
and S. ; the railway from Lancaster to Carlisle on the E. ; and a line drawn
from Penrith to Workington on the N. Within these limits lies a wealth
of charmingly diversified scenery; and though none of the mountains
exceeds 8200 ft. in height, and the largest of the lakes is only IOV2 M. long,
their picturesqueness and even wildness are far greater than their size
would lead one to expect. There are in all about 16 lakes or meres
(the largest being Windermere, Ullswater, Coniston, and Derwentwater),
besides innumerable mountain -tarns. The highest summits are Scafell
Pike (3210 ft.), Scafell (3160 ft.), Helvellyn (3120 ft.), and Skiddaw (3055 ft.).
 ; :

378 Route 48. WINDERMERE. The Lake

The usual approaches to the Lake District are from Oxenholme (p. 374)
tn Windermere, from Carnforth (p. 374) to Lake Side (Windermere) or
Coniston, and from Penrith (p. 374) to Keswick or Ullswater. Seascale (pp. 377,
401) is a convenient starting-point for the Wastwater district. The most
common and perhaps the hest plan is to begin with Windermere, as in this
case we see the tamer scenery first. Those who can devote One Day only
to the Lakes will see most by taking the coach from Bowness (Windermere)
to Ambleside, Grasmere, Thirlmere, and Keswick (see p. 379); or they may
make the circular tour from Coniston or Ambleside, mentioned at pp. 383,
385. A Second Dat may be devoted to the Buttermere round described at
pp. 394,395, and a Third Day to Ullswater, in which case the Lake District is
quitted via Penrith (see p. 3S9). —
A week's walk may be planned thus: 1st
Dat. From Windermere to Ambleside, Grasmere, and Dungeon Gill (16 M.
steamer to Ambleside, see p. 379). —
2nd Day. From Dungeon Gill by
Rossett Gill to Wasdale Head, 3-4 hrs. , or including an ascent of Scafell
Pike, 472-6 hrs.— 3ed Day. From Wasdale Head to Anglers Inn, Enner-
dale, by the Pillar or by the Black Sail Pass, 6-7 hrs.; from Ennerdale
to Buttermere via Floutern Tarn and Scale Force, 2'/2-3 hrs. — 4th Day.
From Buttermere to Keswick via Honister House and Borrowdale, 14 M. —
5th Day. From Keswick via Helvellyn to Palterdale, 5-6 hrs.— 6th Day.
Sail on Ullswater, visit Aira Force, and go on to Penrith; or, from Patter-
dale to Windermere by the Kirkstone Pass and Troutbeck, 13 M. (digression
t'o Hawes Water, 6 M.).
The following list of local names may be useful. Beck, brook; Combe,
hollow (conip. p. 129) ; Dodd, a spur of a mountain ; Force (Icelandic, 'Fors'
Norwegian 'Foss'), a waterfall; Gill, a gorge; Hause, the top of a pass,
French 'col'; Holme, an island; How, a mound-like hill; Nab (A.S. Nebbe,
nose), a projecting rock; Pike, a peak; Raise, the top of a ridge; Scar, a
wall of rock; Scree, steep slope of loose stones; Thwaite, a clearing.
The Hotels in the Lake District are generally good and not exorbitant;
while even the smallest inns , almost without exception , are laudably
clean. Guides and Ponies may he procured at all the principal resorts.
Readers need scarcely he reminded of the Lake School of Poetry.
Wordsworth in particular has made the district his own ('Wordsworth-
shire', as Lowell calls it), and few points of interest have been left unsung
in his 'Excursion' or minor poems. Among interesting prose works relating
to the Lakes may be mentioned Harriet Martineau's 'Guide to the Lake
District' (4th ed. , 1871) Prof. Knighfs 'English Lake District as Inter-
,

preted in the Poems of Wordsworth' and 'Through the Wordsworth

Country' (1887), James Payn's 'Leaves from Lakeland', Wordsworth's 'Guide
to the Lake District' (5th ed., 1835; now out of print), Gibson's 'Folk-
speech of Cumberland', and Mist Alice Rea't 'Beckside Boggle and other
Lake Country Legends'. The botanist is referred to Mr. J. G. Baker's
'Flora of the Lake District' (1886).
The Lake District Defence Society, established in its present form
in 1883, has for its praiseworthy object 'to offer a powerful and con-
solidated opposition to the introduction of unnecessary railways into the
Lake District, and to all other speculative schemes which may appear
likely to impair its beauty or destroy its present character'. Secretaries
W. H. Hills, Esq., The Knoll, Ambleside; Rev. H. D. Rawnsley, Cros-
thwaite Vicarage, Keswick; M. J. Baddeley, Esq., The Hollies, Windermere.

a. Windermere Section.
The village of Windermere (*Rigg's Windermere Hotel , with
view, R. & A. 4s., D. 4s. Queen's, Elleray unpretending; Rail.
;
,

Refreshmt. Rooms; station, p. 377) lies about 300 ft. above the lake
(450 ft. above the sea), from which it is distant 3 /4 M. by the direct
footpath and iy 2 M
t> v TOaQ -
- ** is delightfully situated among
trees at the foot of Orrest Headjfsee p. 379), affording fine views
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 District. BOWNESS. 48. Route. 379

of the lake. Visitors may take up their quarters with almost equal
advantage either here or at Bowness (see p. 379), on the shore of the
lake, l'/aM. to the S. (omn. from the station 6<J.). There is now an
almost continuous line of villas between the two places.
Those who reach the Lake at the Lake Side Station (see p. 877) may
go on at once hy steamer to (5 M.) the Ferry (p. 380) or (6 M.) Bowness.
Bowness. — Hotels. *Old England, close to the lake; "Royal
Hotel; *Ckown, on a height to the E. — "Feery Hotel, see p. 380. —
"Hydropathic Establishment, well situated on Biscay How. — Lodgings.
Coaches run daily in summer from Bowness and Windermere to
(I21/2 M.) Ullswater (fare 6s., return 8s. 6<2.); from Bowness across the ferry
to (9 M.) Coniston (4s., return 6s.); and from Windermere station to Amble-
side (5 M. ; Is. 6d.), Orasmere (9 M. ; 2s. Gd.), and Keswick (21 M. ; 6s. 6d.).
— Omnibuses from the Bowness hotels and from (3 M.) Low Wood Hotel
(p. 383) meet the trains at Windermere.
Steamers ply on Windermere at frequent intervals during the day,
calling at several stations. Entire tour of the lake (2'/2 hrs.) 3«., 2*. 6<J.;
to Lake Side (3/i hr.) Is. 6d., Is.; to Waterhead (for Ambleside; 1 hr.) 1«., 9<2.
Boats on the lake Is. per hour, 5s. per day; with boatman Is. 6d.
and 10*. They may he obtained either near the Bowness pier or at the
Miller Ground Landing, the nearest point to the village of Windermere.
Bowness (135 ft. above the sea), with about 2000 inhab. the ,

principal port of "Windermere is beautifully situated in a small

,

bay on the B. side of the lake. The centre of the picturesque and
irregularly-built little town is the old Church of St. Martin, the
parish-church of Windermere, which has lately been restored and
contains a good stained-glass window said to have been brought
from Furness Abbey (p. 377). Bowness affords admirable head-
quarters for exploring the S. part of the Lake District, and in the
height of the season is visited by thousands of tourists.
Visitors to Windermere and Bowness should first ascend Orrest
Head or Biscay How (or both), to obtain a general view of the lake.
"Orrest Head (784 ft.), the higher of the two, commands the more
extensive view, and is ascended from Windermere in about 20 minutes.
On issuing from the station we pass through the second of two gates on
the right (a wooden one), adjoining the approach to the Windermere Hotel,
and then ascend through the varied woods of Elleray by a path indi-
cated by sign-posts. The '-"View comprises the entire S. half of the Lake
District, the chief feature being, of course, the beautiful winding Winder-
mere itself, with its clusters of islets and encircling mountains. The
most prominent summits are the Langdale Pikes, rising to the N.W.,
near the head of Windermere. To the right of these is a wooded knoll
called Loughrigg Fell with Helm Crag rising behind , while still farther
,

to the right are Fairfield, Wansfell Pike (with the village of Troutbeck),
the conspicuous Bed Screes, the ridge of High Street, and the fine cone
of 111 Bell. To the E. is a long series of featureless hills extending to
Ingleborough in Yorkshire, on theS.E. To the left (W.) of the Langdale
Pikes rise the fine peak of Bow Fell, Scafell Pikes (in the distance), Pike
0* Blisco and the three Crinkle Crags (in front), the rounded Weatherlam,
Mid the Coniston Old Man , closing the mountain-screen in this direction.
To the S. the view extends to Morecambe Bay. In descending we may
keep more to the right and pass the cottage of Elleray, the former re-
sidence of Christopher North, shaded by the splendid sycamore of which
he declared it were easier to suppose two Shakespeares than such another
tree. Below it we reach the Ambleside road, where we may either turn
to the left for (1/3 M.) Windermere, or to the right and then to the left (at
the cross-roads) for (is/4 M.) Bowness.
380 Route 48. WINDERMERE. The Lake

"Biscay How rises immediately behind Bowness, and the way to the
top Oh nr is obvious. The view is similar to that from Orrest Head,
but less extensive. —
other good points of view are 'Miller Brow, lty2 M. to
the N. of Bowness, on the road to Ambleside, just on this side of the above-
mentioned cross-roads, and "Brant Fell (500 ft.), 1 M. to the S.E. The road
to the latter ascends by the church and to the left of the Crown Hotel.
Windermere, or Winandermere (the 'winding lake', or, per-
haps ,'Windar's lake') , is the largest lake in England being ,

IOV'2 M. in length and l /3 -l M. broad. It lies 134 ft. above the sea-
level and its greatest depth is 240 ft. Its banks are beautifully
,

wooded and enlivened with numerous villas. The N. end of Win-

dermere is enclosed by an amphitheatre of lofty mountains. At
the S. end of the lake 6 M. from Bowness (reached by crossing
,

the Ferry 3/4 M. below Bowness, and following the shady road on
,

the W. bank), lies Lake Side (*Lake Side Hotel; Railway Refreshmt.
Rooms) the terminus of the railway from Carnforth (see p. 376).
,

Steamer on Windermere (see p. 379). Leaving Lake Side, the steamboat

steers to the N., up the middle of the lake, which is here not wider than
a river of moderate size. The banks are well wooded. To the right
is Glimmer's How (1054 ft.). We pass a few islets, and then the promon-
tories called Rawlinson Nab (left) and Storr's Point (right) , the latter
with a small observatory. It was here that Scott, Wordsworth, Southey,
Canning, and Wilson met in 1825 and witnessed a regatta held in honour
of the first-named. Beyond Ramp Holme the steamer makes its first halt
at the "Ferry Hotel, charmingly situated on a small promontory jutting
out from the W. bank (ferry, see below). It then steers across the lake
towards Bowness, skirting the well-wooded Belle Isle, the largest island
in the lake O/2 M. long; landing forbidden). Bowness, see p. 379.
On leaving Bowness the steamer threads its way among several
islets to the N. of Belle Isle and enters upon the most picturesque part
of the voyage. The fine amphitheatre of mountains at the head of the
lake becomes more and more distinct. Due N. is Fairfield; to the right of
it, Red Screes, High Street, Froswick, and 111 Bell; to the left, the con-
spicuous Langdale Pikes. To the W. rise Weatherlam and the Coniston
Old Man (eomp. p. 332). To the right opens the little glen of the Trout-
beck, which flows into the lake through the woods of Calgarth. On the
shore to the left, a little farther on, is Wray Castle, a modern castellated
mansion, rising above the trees. The steamer then stops on the E.
side of the lake at the "Low Wood Hotel, a large establishment close to the
shore. High up on the same side is Dove Nest, onee the temporary home
of Mrs. Ilemans. At the head of the lake open out the valleys of the Brathay
(to the left) and the Rothay , which unite their waters just before enter-
ing the lake. To the left is Pull Wyke Bay. We then reach the pier of
Waterhead (Hotel; Restaurant, with lodgings, at the pier), the station at
the N. end of the lake. Omnibuses for (f/t M.) Ambleside (p. 385) and (5 M.)
Grasmere (p. 387) meet the steamers.
From Bowness to Estitwaite Water, Hawkshead, and Co-
niston, 9 M. (coach, see p. 379). The road leads to the S. from
Bowness to the (1 M.) Nab Ferry, which walkers may reach by a
shorter footpath ( 3/4 M.) to the right. The lake here is only '/4 M.
wide, and the ferry-boat plies at short intervals during the day (fare
2d.; carr. ls.-3s. 6d.). On the other side is the Ferry Hotel (seeabove).
From the Ferry Hotel the road ascends, skirting the Claife
Heights, to (l J /4 M.) Far Sawrey (Inn) and ('/2 M.) Near Sawrey,
and then descends to the right to (V2 M Esthwaite Water (217 ft.),
a small lake, l 3/t M. long and 1 /3 M. broad, well stocked with fish.
 ;

DUtrict. CONISTON. 48. Route. 381

Our road skirts the E. side of the lake, passes a small pool called
the 'Priest Pot' to the N. of it, and then turns to the left.
l J /4 M. Hawkshead (Red Lion), a quaint and very irregular little
town, with the grammar-school at which "Wordsworth was educated.
His name is cut on one of the oaken tenches. The school was
founded in 1585 by Abp. Sandys, a native of Hawkshead. The
little height on which the church stands commands a good view.
The road leading straight on (to the N.) from Hawkshead leads
to Ambleside. Our road turns to the left and ascends to (l J/2M
High Cross (600 ft.) , the culminating point of the route , where it
joins the road from Ambleside to Coniston (see p. 386). We now
descend , facing the Old Man and Weatherlam , with the Yewdale
Crags in front of them, and enjoying fine glimpses of Coniston
Lake to the left, to (2 M.) the head of the lake, whence the road
leads past the Waterhead Hotel to (1 M.) the village of Coniston.
Coniston (* Waterhead Hotel, ife M. from the village, near the
pier; Crown, in the village; Lodgings), the terminus of a railway
from Carnforth and Furness Abbey (see p. 377) , is finely situated
at the foot of the Old Man 3/4 M. from the lake, and is a pleasant
,

centre for excursionists and anglers. — Coniston Lake (147 ft.),

a 'miniature Windermere', is 572 M. long, about Y2 M. broad, and
260 ft. deep at the deepest part. The most picturesque part of it
is the N. end, with the mountains rising above it, but the beauti-
fully-wooded banks lower down have a charm of their own. The
best view down the lake is obtained from Tarn Hows (see below).
A small steamer plies up and down the lake (3/4 hr. each way
fare 1»., return Is. 6d.). At the lower end is Lake Bank Hotel,
which is 8*/2 M. from Ulverston (p. 377) and 5*/2 M. from Qreenodd,
a station on the Lake Side line (p. 377). As we descend the lake
the distant tops of Helvellyn , Fairfield, and Red Screes come into
sight on the N. and N.E. Among the houses on the E. bank are
Tent House (opposite the Waterhead Hotel), where Tennyson once
lived, and Brantwood, 1 M. lower down, the home of Ruskin.
The most attractive point for a short walk from Coniston is (2 M.)
Tarn Howt, which pedestrians may easily include by a slight devour on
their way from Bowness or Ambleside. We follow the Bowness (or Am-
bleside) road to a point about 3/< M. beyond the Waterhead Hotel, where
we diverge to the left, nearly opposite the gate of Waterhead House, and
ascend through the wooded dell to P/4 M.) Tarn Bows Farm (to the left).
The high ground to the right, farther on, commands a beautiful 'View. In
returning we may descend by a steep path into Yewdale (p. 386), whieh
we reach near the celebrated yew (p. 386), or take the opposite direction
and descend to the Bowness Toad near High Cross (see above).
Ascent of the Coniston Old Man, IV2 hr. (ponies obtainable at the
hotels). There are various ways of making this ascent, but if the summit
is not concealed by mist the climber will not need much guidance. The
slopes of the fell are covered with copper-mines and slate-quarries, and
the interest of a visit to the former (apply to the manager) scarcely com-
pensates for the disfigurement of the scenery. The regular pony-track
ascends along a stream descending from the copper -mines, passes the
mines, and then climbs to the left towards a conspicuous slate-quarry,
near the Low Water Tarn. Hence we ascend to the S., passing another
 382 Route 48. CONISTON. The Lake

quarry, and soon reach the top. The summit of the "Old Man (2633 ft.),
the name of which is a corruption of Allt Maen (i.e. 'steep rock'), com-
mands a "View of great charm. To the N. is an expanse of rugged fells,
culminating in the distant Skiddaw to the right of which are ranged
,

Helvellyn, High Street, and 111 Bell. To the E. we look over Coniston
Water, Esthwaite Water, and parts of Windermere, with the Yorkshire
hills in the background. To the S. are Morecambe Bay and Black Combe-
and the summit of Snowdon is visible in clear weather beyond the expanse
of sea. The view to the W. also includes the sea and the Isle of Man.
The tarn high up among the fells is Devolce Water. To the N.W. tower
Scafell and Scafell Pike. The immediate foreground is filled with the
other members of the range of which the Old Man is the loftiest summit
(Weatherlam, the Carrs, Dow Crag, etc.). Three small tarns, Lever Water
and Low Water to the N., and Blind Tarn to the S.W., are visible; and
by going a few yards to the W., we see a fourth, Goats Water (1646 ft.)
at our feet. The descent may be varied in many ways. We may walk
along the ridge connecting the summit with Sow Grag (2555 ft.) and descend
by the Walna Scar Pass (2035 ft.); or we may descend to Seathwaite Tarn
it down to the valley of the Duddon
and follow the brook issuing from
by the Walna Scar road, or following
(see below), returning to Coniston
theDuddon to Broughlon and returning thence by train. Good walkers
may make their way to the top of (2 hrs.) Weatherlam (2502 ft. view) ;

and descend thence either into the (1 hr.) Tilberthwaite Glen (see below),
or by the N.E. side to (1 hr.) Smithy Houses (p. 386).
The Duddon Valley. The easiest way to visit this valley, immor-
talised by Wordsworth in his 'Sonnets to the Duddon', is to take the train
to (8'/2 M.) Broughton-in-Furness, and drive or walk thence along the river.
It may also be reached by the road over the Walna Scar (2035 ft.), to the S.
of the Old Man, with the ascent of which it may be combined. The Duddon
rises near the Wrynose Pass (see below), 14 M. above Broughton, where its
sandy estuary begins, and forms the boundary between Cumberland (W.)
and Lancashire (E.). There is a small inn at Ulpha, 5 l fe M. above Broughton,
where the route to Dalegarth Force, Eskdale, and Wast Water (p. 400) di-
verges to the left. About 1 llv M. farther on is Seathwaite Church, of which
'Wonderful Walker' was rector for 67 years (1735-1802), governing his parish
with 'an entirely healthy and absolutely autocratic rule', leading the way
in all manual labour as well as instructing his people in spiritual matters,
bringing up and educating eight children, and leaving 2000/., —all on an
annual stipend of less than 5UJ. He is buried in the churchyard. About
!

'/2 M. beyond the church the road over the Walna Scar Pass (see above)
diverges to the right (to Coniston 5 M.). From this point, too, we may
ascend along the Seathwaite Beck to Seathwaite Tarn, and thence to the
top of the Old Man (see above). It is, however, better to follow the
Duddon to a point nearly opposite the head of Seathwaite Tarn, and then
make for the tarn (V» M.) straight across country. From the head of the
Duddon valley the Wrynose Pass (1270 ft.) leads past the 'Three Shire
Stones', where Lancashire, Cumberland, and Westmorland meet, into
Little Longdate (p. 386).
Fkom Coniston to Dungeon Gill via Tilberthwaite and Fell Foot,
8 M. (rough road, barely passable for carriages). The road diverges to
the left (N.) from the Bowness road near the Crown Hotel, and ascends
through Yewdale, skirting the foot of Yewdale Crag (1050 ft.). At the
(IV2 M.) fork we ascend to the left through Tilberthwaite Glen and skirt
the beck. To the right are the richly-tinted rocks of Holme Fell and
Raven Crag, About 1 M. farther on we cross the beck. [To the left
here opens "Tilberthwaite Gill, a most romantic little gorge, which the
path ascends by bridges, steps, and ladders. At the upper end is a pretty
waterfall.] Beyond (1/4 M.) High Tilberthwaite Farm our track leads through
the gate to the left (the right gate leading to Smithy Houses p. 386). It
,

first ascends past some slate-quarries, and then descends, keeping to the
left, to the farm of (I1/2 M.) Fell Foot, which is surrounded by yew-trees.
Ill Bell, Fairfield, Helvellyn, and the Langdale Pikes come into sight as
we proceed. To the K. of Fell Foot lies the Little Langdale Tarn (340 ft.)
 District: RYDAL. 48. Route. 383
and to the W. rises the Pike o' Blisco (2304 ft.). The road to the Wrynose
Pass (see p. 382) is seen ascending to the left. Jnst on this side of Fell
Foot we cross the Brathay and tnrn to the right. After a few hundred yards
we turn to the left, and follow the slope of Lingmoor Fell. are nowWe
on the classic ground of Wordsworth's 'Excursion'. To the left is Blea
Tarn (612 ft.), with the Solitary's cottage, while to the right the Lang-
dale Pikes suddenly come into sight. About '/z M. beyond the tarn we
reach the top of the pass (700 ft.) and begin the steep descent into Great
Longdate ("View). We
pass the Wall End Farm, and soon see the Old
Dungeon QUI Hotel, at the base of the Langdale Pikes. The Nea Dungeon
Gill Hotel is at Millbeck, 1 M. lower down, near the fall (corap. p. 386).
The route hence to Grasmere is described at p. 387.
From Coniston to Ambleside, see route described in the reverse direc-
tion at p. 385. Coniston may also be made the starting-point for the com-
bination circular tour there mentioned. —
Those who wish to return from
Coniston to Bowness may vary the above route by following the Amble-
side road to x
Oh M.) Waterhead (p. 380), and going on thence by steamer.
— Coniston is within easy reach by railway of Furness Abbey (p. 377).
From Windermere (and Bowness) to Ambleside, Grasmere,
and Keswick, 21 M., coach several times daily in summer in 4hrs.
(fare 6s. 6d. ; to Ambleside Is. 6d., to Grasmere 3s.). This fine
drive takes the traveller through the heart of the Lake District. It
is, however, needless to say that all who can spare the time should
stop at various points en route. The distances are calculated from
Windermere station, whence the coach starts; from Bowness (p. 379)
add 11/2 M.
From the station the road leads to the N.W. passing the grounds
,

of EUeray (p. 379) on the right, and beyond the (% M.) cross-roads
(to Bowness on the left and Patterdale on the right) descends
through trees to (Ya M.) Troutbeck Bridge (Sun Inn). To the left
are Calgarth Hall and Park. At (3 M.) Low Wood Hotel (p. 380)
we reach the shore o^ the lake, which the road skirts to (1M.) Wa-
terhead (p. 380), passing below Dove Nest (p. 380; to the right).
We now ascend the valley of the Rothay (to the left a road leading
to Rothay Bridge) to ( 3/4 M.) Ambleside (p. 385).
Quitting Ambleside, we pass, on the left, the Ivy-clad KnoU,
the former residence of Harriet Martineau, and, across the Rothay,
at the foot of Loughrigg Fell, Fox Howe, the home of Dr. Arnold.
To the right opens the small valley of the Scandale Beck, and on
the same side is the richly- wooded park of Rydal Hall. l1 M. ^
Rydal, a small village near the E. end of Rydal Water (180 ft.),
a pretty little lake, 3/4 M. long and !/ 4 M. wide.
To reach Sydal Mount, the home of Wordsworth from 1817 till his
death in 1850, we ascend the steep road to the right for 170 yds. A glimpse of
the house, on a small hill behind the church, almost hidden by the trees,
is got from the coach. It contains no relics of the poet and is not shown.
The pretty little Falls of the Rydal are within the grounds of Rydal
Hall, the seat of the Le Flemings, and a guide must be obtained at a
cottage below the church, to the left. The two falls are about V2 M.
apart, and the upper one is about 3 /4 M. from the high-road.
Walkers to Grasmere may leave the high-road, at Rydal, take the first
turning to the left beyond Rydal Mount, and follow a path along the W.
slope of Nab Scar (views), which joins a narrow road at White Moss and
reaches the high-road just beyond the Prince of Wales Hotel (see p. 384).
384 Route 48. THIRLMERE. The Lake

The coach-road t now skirts the N. hank of Rydal Water, passing

Nab Cottage, where Hartley Coleridge (d. 1849) lived for many
years. Silver Howe and Serjeant Man rise in front. Beyond Rydal
"Water the road turns sharply round a wooded knoll, and discloses a
lovely *View of Grasmere lake and vale. The fells in front (left
to right) are Helm Crag , and Great Rigg.
Steel Fell, Seat Sandal ,

The coach skirts the lake for M., and at the Prince of Wales
l
fe
Hotel turns to the left. (Walkers who do not call at the village
may save '/4 M. by keeping to the right here, rejoining the coach-
road at the Swan Hotel.) —
9 M. (from Windermere) Grasmere,
see p. 387.
About !/2 M. beyond the village of Grasmere we pass the Swan
Hotel , a little to the right and soon begin the long ascent to the
,

(3 M.) top of the Dunmail Raise Pass (780 ft.), between Steel
Fell (1811 ft.) on the left and Seat Sandal (2415 ft.) on the right.
The scenery becomes wilder. To the left we have a good view ot
Helm Crag (p. 387). The wall at the top of the pass is the bound-
ary between Cumberland and Westmorland, and the small cairn is
said to mark the grave of Dunmail, last king of Cumbria. We now
obtain a view of Thirlmere, with Helvellyn to the right and Skiddaw
in the distance. About l'/4 M. below the pass, and 1 M. from the
S. end of Thirlmere, we reach Wythburn (Inn).
Thirlmere (533 ft.) is nearly 3 M. long, and nowhere more
than y3 M. wide. Near the middle it contracts to a breadth of a few
yards and is spanned by a small wooden bridge. Its greatest depth
is 108 ft. In spite of strong opposition, a bill has passed through
Parliament, allowing Manchester to supply itself with water from
Thirlmere , and the requisite works have marred the beauty of the
lovely mere. The W. side, opposite Helvellyn , is bordered with
picturesque woods and crags.
The W. side is the preferable route for pedestrians who may leave ,

the road by a lane to the left, at the Wythburn Inn, and follow the
cart-track, which rejoins the main road, V2 M. below the foot of the lake.
The road skirts the E. bank of the lake, at the base of Hel-
vellyn, for about 1 M. It then ascends to the right and soon com-
mands a fine view of the Vale of St. John with Saddleback (or
,

Blencathara) in the background The wooded knoll to the left is

.

Great How (1090 ft.). We pass (1 M.) the little King's Head Inn,
at Thirlspot; %M. farther on, the road down the Vale of St. John
diverges to the left. The Castle Rock of St. John, celebrated by Scott
in 'The Bridal of Triermain', now rises on the right (1000 ft.). For
the next 3 M. the scenery is less interesting, but when we reach the
top of the ridge called Castle Rigg, -we are repaid by a charming* View
of the vale of Keswick, with the lakes of Derwentwater and Bassen-

t Dr. Arnold called the highest of the three roads between Rydal and
Grasmere, 'Old Corruption' ; the middle one, 'Bit-by-bit Reform'; and the
1
lowest and most level, 'Radical Reform .
 District. AMBLESIDE. 48. Route. 385

thwaite. Skiddaw and Blencathara rise in front to the W. are the

;

fells round Newlands (p. 396) and Buttermere (p. 395). We have
still a descent of about 1 M. to reach Keswick (see p. 392).
Foot-passengers may leave this route at Armboth, halfway down the
W. bank of Thirlmere, close to the little bridge (see p. 384), and proceed
to the W. by a bridle-path across the Armboth Fell (1588 ft.) to (l»/4 hr.)
Watendlath, 5 M. from. Keswick (comp. p. 393).
Ambleside (*8alutation ; *Queeris; * White Lion; Waterhead
Hotel, on the lake, 3/4 M. from the town; Lodgings), a small town
with about 2000 inhab., is beautifully situated in the valley of the
Bothay, at the foot of Wansfell Pike, and 3/4 M. from the head of
Windermere. It is supposed to have been a Roman station, and
fragments of tesselated pavements and other remains have been
found in the neighbourhood. It is perhaps the best headquarters
for excursions in the S. part of the Lake District, and has abundant
omnibus and coach communication with Waterhead (p. 380), Gras-
mere, Windermere railway-station, Coniston, Keswick, and Patter-
dale. The Church of St. Mary built by Sir G. G. Scott, contains
,

a stained-glass window to the memory of Wordsworth.

Excursions from Ambleside. From the Salutation Hotel a road and
path ascend by the stream to O/s M.) 'Stock QUI Force, a romantic little
fallabout 70 ft. high, with picturesque surroundings (adm. 3d.). — To the
(2 M.) Rydal Falls, see p. 383. —
A pleasant walk in the prettily-wooded
valley of the Bothay may be taken by crossing the river near the church
and ascending on the right bank, past Fox Howe (p. 383), to (l 3/« M.)
Pelter Bridge. Then back by the high-road (1 M). — Another excellent
view of Windermere is obtained from "Jenkiii's Crag, Vfe M. to the S. —
Other short walks may be taken to Skelwith Force (p. 386), Colwith Force
(p. 386), "Loughrigg Terrace (see below), Troutbeck (p. 389), etc.
Ascents. The ascent of TFa»»/e!/.P«*e (1597 ft.), rising to theE. of Amble-
side, takes 3/4-l hr. The best route is via. Stock Gill Force, beyond which
we bend to the right and follow the general direction of a wall running
up the hill. The top affords a charming view of Windermere, Grasmere,
and Rydal, with numerous mountains in the distance. The descent may
be made on the S.E. to Troutbeck (p. 389) in IV2 hr., whence we return
via (2 M.) Low Wood (p. 380) to (2 M.) Ambleside. — -Loughrigg Fell
(1100 ft.) may be ascended by several routes, and its long uneven top
affords a variety of views. The easiest route (about 1 hr.) is by the
path ascending from Clappersgate (p. 385), 1 M. to the S.W. ; the shortest
ascends from the bridge near St. Mary's Church (see above). — The
Fox Gill ascent begins behind Fox Howe (see above). The descent (steep)
may be made by Loughrigg Terrace and Red Bank to. Grasmere (p. 387).
— The top of Nab Scar, the southernmost spur of Fairfield, may be
reached from Ambleside via. Kydal in l-l 1/* hr. We follow the road past
Eydal Mount as far as it goes, and ascend a green slope between two
walls. —
Fairfield (2863 ft.) itself may be reached by following the ridge
to the N. from Nab Scar (2-3 hrs. from Ambleside; fine views), but the
usual ascent is by the bridle-path ascending from the Swan Inn near
Grasmere (p. 384). —Ascent of the Lang dale Pikes, see p. 386.
From Ambleside to Coniston by Barn Gates and back bi Oxenfell
(to Coniston 7V2 M., back 8 M.). This round is made daily in summer by
chars-a-banc (fare 6s.). Circular tour tickets are also issued at Amble-
side for Coniston, Furness Abbey (train), Lake Side (train), Waterhead
(steamer), and back to Ambleside by omnibus (fares 8*. 9d., 6». 6d., 5s.
6<f. ; tickets available for a week). —
The road leads to the S.W. , crosses
(»/2 M.) Bothay Bridge, and skirts the S. slopes of Loughrigg Fell. At
P/s M.) the village of Clappersgate we diverge to the left from the road
to the Langdales (see p. 386) and cross Brathay Bridge. We
then traverse
" I tlm> Tlijf '- "- "" 25
386 Route 48. LANGDALE. The Lake

a well-wooded district at the head of Pull Wyke Bay (to the left, Brathay
Hall), diverge to the right from the Hawkshead road, and ascend to (2 M.)
Bam Gates Inn, where we obtain a good mountain view. At (2 M.) High
Cross we join the route from Bowness, described at p. 380. 2>/2 M. Coni-
slon, see p. 381.— On the Teturn-route we strike to the N. through Yewdale
turn to the right after l'/a M., and ascend past High Yewdale Farm. The
patriarchal yew for which the dale is celebrated is in a field to the left
near a group of cottages , >/4 M. beyond the farm. About this point the
road turns to the left and ascends on the slope of Oxenfell to (2>/2 M.)
the top of the pass (500ft.; view). Farther on ( 3/ 4 M.) a road diverges on
the left to Golwith Force (see below). To the left is Elteraaler Tarn, near
which is a small cottage-factory (St. Martin's), where Mr. Albert Fleming
has resuscitated the old Lakeside industries of spinning and hand-loom
weaving. Our road descends to the right to (1 M.) Skelwith Bridge, over
the Brathay, which forms the small fall of Skelwith Force 300 yds. farther
up. We then skirt the base of Loughrigg Fell to (2 M.) Brathay Bridge
(see p. 3S5).
Tour of the Langdai.es, 19V2 M., coach daily in summer in 6 hrs.
(fare is.). From Ambleside to (3 M.) Skelwith Bridge, see above. About
i M. farther on we diverge to the right from the road to Coniston and
descend to Golwith Bridge , just beyond which the road forks. [We may
here stop to visit Golwith Force, a cascade in the pretty little valley to
the right (key kept at a cottage by the fork ; 3d.).] Our road ascends to the
left, a little above the fall , through the vale of Little Langdale , which
is separated from Great Langdale by Lingmoor Fell (to the right). Beyond
the (1 M.) hamlet of Smithy Houses we pass Little Langdale Tarn (340 ft.)
and a little farther on, near Fell Foot, join the route described at p. 383.
The coach stops at the Old Dungeon Gill Hotel (p. 383) for luncheon,
and ample time is allowed for a visit to ''Dungeon Gill Force, roman-
tically situated in a narrow gorge, hemmed in by vertical walls of rock
and making a perpendicular descent of about 70 ft. Above the fall is a
curious natural bridge formed by two rocks firmly wedged between the
sides of the ravine. The fall is about the same distance O/2 M.) from
each hotel; those who have come from the Old Hotel may descend the
hill to the New Hotel and there rejoin the coach.
[Dungeon Gill is the best starting-point for an ascent of the Langdale
Pikes (Harrison Stickle 2400ft ; Pike 0""Stickle 2323 ft), which takes li/2-2hrs.
(pony and guide 10s.). We ascend in windings near the Dungeon Gill beck
(with the stream to the right). As we approach the final part of the
ascent the Pike o' Stickle rises to the left and the Harrison Stickle to the
right, liut to reach the latter we have to make a detour to the left round
a spur. The view from the top is somewhat circumscribed but com- ,

mands Langdale and Windermere. The descent may be made by Stickle

Tarn (1540 ft.), below Harrison Stickle. The route, which is unmistakable,
passes between the Pavey Ark Socks on the N. bank of the tarn, and then
descends along the beck. — Grasrnerc may be reached in 2-2'/2 hrs. by
keeping to the ST. from Stickle Tarn and climbing the ridge in front,
until a point is reached from which we look down upon Grasmere. In de
scending we keep to the right of Codale Tarn and Easdale Tarn. From
the Pike o' Stickle we may descend on the N.W. to the Stake Pass (p. 396)
and Borrowdale (see p. 394). —
Bowfell (2960 ft.; *View) may he ascended
from Old Dungeon Gill Hotel in 2-2>/4 hrs., via Stool End Farm and the
shoulder called the Band.]
From Dungeon Gill our road runs to the E. through the green valley
of Great Langdale, affording a fine retrospect of the Langdale Pikes. About
2 M. beyond Millbeck we reach Langdale Church and the village of Chapel
Stile, on the fells near which are numerous slate-quarries. Here the
road forks, and walkers who wish to return direct to (5 M.) Ambleside
follow the branch to the right, passing Elierwater and Loughrigg Tarn.
[A hill may be avoided by following the lield-path leading from the Bri-
tannia Inn in the village of Elterwater along the N. bank of the Elter
Writer and rejoining the road at Skelwith Bridge.] The coach ascends the
road to the left and soon reaches the top of the saddle between Silver
 District. GRASMERE. 48. Route. 387

How and Loughrigg Fell , where we have a good Tetrospeet of the Lang-
dale Pikes, Bowfell, and other summits. As we descend, a fine *View of
Grasmere is disclosed. To enjoy this to the full we diverge to the right
a little farther on, pass through a gate marked 'private', and follow the
drive to the so-called Red Bank, a bare spot on the N. side of Loughrigg
Fell. We return by another 'private' drive (to the right), which brings
us out on the road, l'/4 M. from the village of Grasmere. The road leads
round the 8.W. side of the lake. Grasmere, see below. From Grasmere
to (4 M.) Ambleside, see pp. 383, 384.
Other excursions may he made from Amhleside to (8>/2 M.) Patterdale
(coach daily, joining the route from Windermere at the Zirkstone Pass,
reached from Ambleside by a steep ascent of 3 M. through the valley of
the Stock Gill Beck; comp. p. 389); to Wasdale Bead (p. 400), either by
the Wrynose Pass, Eskdale, Boot, and Burnmoor Tarn (23»/4 M.), or by Dun-
geon Gill (71/2 M.) and bv bridle-path over Esk House (2370 ft.; 3-3Vj hrs.;
comp. p. 398); and to Keswick via Great Longdate and the Stake Pass (road
to Dungeon Gill 7>/2 M.; bridle-path over the pass 3-3>/2 hrs.; road from
Rosthwaite to Keswick 6'/2 M.).
The village of Grasmere (*Prince of Wales on the lake, V2
, M -

from the village, R. & A. 4s., D. 4s. 6d.\ *Rothay, Red Lion, in
the village ; Swan, V2 M. to the N.; Lodgings) is charmingly situat-
ed near the N. end of the lake of the same name a little to the
,

W. of the main road from Ambleside to Keswick. "Wordsworth

(d. 1850) resided here for eight years, and is Iraried in the chuTch-
yard (comp. p. 383). Almost every point in the neighbourhood is
celebrated in his poetry.
'Keep fresh the grass upon his grave,
'O Botha, with thy living wave;
'Sing him thy best, for few or none
'Hear thy voice right, now he is gone' (Matt. Arnold).
*Grasmere (208 ft.) is about 1 M. long and nearly Y2 M. broad
in the middle ; its greatest depth is 180 ft There is a solitary
green island in the centre. Ferry near the Prince of Wales Hotel.
Helm Crag (1300 ft. ; 1 hr.) , rising to the N. of Grasmere, is a good
point of view. We follow the Easdale road (see below) to a point about
'/3 M. beyond the slab-bridge ,diverge to the right between two houses,
pass through a gate to the right, and ascend hy a wall. When the wall
begins to descend we keep to the left. FAt the top are some curious
crags, supposed to resemble, when seen from below, a lion and lamb, an
'Ancient Woman cowering beside her rifted cell', the 'astrologer, sage Sidro-
phel', etc. — The charming "View from (l'/2 M.) Red Bank has been
mentioned above. We may return by the N. side of Grasmere (2V2 M-),
crossing the Rothay between Grasmere andRydal lakes, or we may extend
our walk to include a circuit of Rydal Water (6 M. in all). From Red
Bank we may also ascend to the top of Loughrigg Fell (p. 385) in about
V2 hr. — Perhaps the best short walk from Grasmere is that to (2V2 M.)
Easdale Tarn. There is a bridle-path all the way, and driving is practicable
for l'/4 M. The route leads to the N.W., following the general course of
the Easdale Beck. The turns to the right are to be avoided. About '/3 M.
from the village the road crosses the stream by a bridge, and a little
farther on, walkers cross it again by a slab-bridge and ascend by its
right bank. As we approach the tarn we pass Sow Milk Force, the milky
water of which is conspicuous. Fine retrospect of Grasmere. The tarn
lies in a secluded valley, 915 ft. above the sea and TOO ft. above Grasmere.
The walk may be prolonged to Dungeon Gill (l'/2-2 hrs.) or to the Longdate
Pikes (2-3 hrs. ; comp. p. 386). The return to Grasmere may be varied by
ascending Silver Bow (1345 ft.), which rises to the S. (see Map).
Ascent of Helvellyn (23 /4-3V2 hrs.; pony and guide 15t., both un-
25 »
388 Route 48. HELVELLYN. The Lake

necessary for practised climbers). We

follow the high-road to Keswick
(see p. 384) for l'/4 M., to a bridge 3/i M. beyond the Swan Hotel. Here
we pass through a gate on the right and ascend the rough track to the
left of the stream. To the right is the charming little fall of Tongue Gill
Force, to which a digression should be made. Our track keeps to the
left and can scarcely be missed, though some climbers have made the
mistake of taking Seat Sandal (2415 ft. ; to the left) for Helvellyn. Fine
retrospects of Grasmere as we ascend. In about l 3 /4 hr. we reach the top
of the Grisedale Pass (1930 ft.), between Seat Sandal and Fairfield (2863 ft.),
where we pass through a gap in the wall. To the left lies Grisedale Tarn
(1768 ft.). Wenow descend to the (12 min.) tarn, cross the stream issuing
from it, and ascend by the steep zigzag track to the left to Dollywaggon
Pike (2810 ft.), the S. and lowest extremity of the Helvellyn ridge. The
ascent hence to the summit, reached in about 1-1V4 hr. from Grisedale
Tarn, is comparatively easy. The "View from Helvellyn (3118 ft.; perhaps
from 'El VelnT, the hill of Veli or Baal), the second in height but most
impressive in form of the Lake Mts., is very extensive, including all the
main summits of the Lake District and the lakes of Windermere, Coniston,
Esthwaite and Ullswater. (Thirlmere is not visible from the highest
,

point.) Immediately at our feet, on the E., is the Red Tarn (2356 ft.),
between two spurs of Helvellyn, Catchedicam on the left and Striding Edge
(2500 ft.) on the right. The Solway Firth and the hills of Dumfriesshire
bound the view to the N., while the sea is the limit to the S. We may
descend either to Grasmere, Wythburn (see p. 384), Thirlspot (see p. 384),
or Patterdale (p. 391). The Wythburn path diverges to the right from the
Grasmere route about 10 min. below the top. —
Grasmere is also the
starting-point for the easiest ascent of Fairfield (2863 ft. ; l>/2-2 hrs.). We
turn to the right near the Swan Hotel and ascend by a well-marked bridle-
path. Or we may diverge from the Helvellyn route near the top of Grise-
dale Pass (see above) and make straight for the summit.
From Geasmeee to Patterdale (Ullswater) by the Grisedale Pass
(8 M., in 3-4 hrs. ; an easy and delightful excursion). From Grasmere to
the (i'/2-2 hrs.) head of the Grisedale Pass (1930 ft.) , see above. The
descent beyond the tarn is steep at first. To the left towers Helvellyn, to
the right St. Sunday''! Crag (2756 ft.). Ullswater is generally hidden. Good
walkers may ascend to the saddle between Fairfield and St. Sunday's
Crag, and follow the ridge all the way to Patterdale (fine views). Beyond
a shed, reached '/2 hr. after leaving the tarn, we cross a small beck and
keep to the left of the main stream. In 1 /t hr. we pass through a gate
and cross to the other side. From (10 min.) the farm of Elm How a
good road leads to (l 1 /* M.) Patterdale (see p. 390).
From Grasmere to Borrowdale via Easdale (to Eosthwaite 3-4 hrs.).
We leave Grasmere by the Easdale Tarn route, follow the road for about
Vs M. past the slab-bridge (p. 387), pass between the two houses (as
on the ascent of Helm Crag, p. 387), and'then follow the bridle-path to
the left, which ascends Far Easdale Bill. About 1 M. from the point
where we left the road we cross the beck at the Stythwaite Steps. The
track ceases about 1 M. farther on, but we follow the course of the stream,
and soon reach the (1 M.) head of the Easdale Valley. Beyond this we
cross a depression (to the right the Wythburn Valley) and ascend again in
the same general direction to (1 M.) Greenup Edge (2000 ft.), the highest
part of the route, between High Raise (2500 ft.) on the left and Ullscarf
(2370 ft.) on the right (*View). In descending we keep to the right, the
direction being roughly indicated by heaps of stones. Lower down , the
path reappears and descends on the right bank of the stream (view of
Borrowdale). At the hamlet of Stonethwaite , about 2 M. below the top,
we cross the stream by a stone bridge and V2 M. farther on join the
,

main Borrowdale road, V2 M. above Rosthwaite (p. 395). From Eosthwaite

to (6V2 M.) Keswick, see p. 395. —
Walkers.mayjalso'reach Keswick from
Grasmere via Duiimail Raise (or Armboth Fell) and Watendlath (comp. p. 385).
From Windermere to Patterdale (Ullswater), I2Y2 M.,
coach dally in l 3/4 -2 hrs. (fare 5s.,
return 7s. 6d.). Circular tour tickets,
 District. KIRKSTONE PASS. 48. Route. 389

available for a week, are issued from Windermere to Keswick via

Patterdale (coach, steamer, and train; fares 16s. 3d., lis. 3d., 13s.
6d.). Our road diverges to the right from that to Ambleside, at a
point 3 /i M. from "Windermere station (p. 378), and ascends on
the left side of the Troutheck valley.
Another road leaves the Ambleside road at Troutbeck bridge, >/t M. •

farther, and ascends on the right bank of the beck; it is this road that
passes through the long and picturesque village of Troutbeck and past the
'Mortal Man Inn\ The two roads unite at the N. end of the village.
Our road soon quits the woods and commands charming views
of Windermere. From (2'/4 M.) Troutbeck Church a road leads to the
3
left to the village of Troutbeck (see above) , and /4 M. farther on
our road unites with that leading through Troutbeck (see above).
We now ascend steeply along the E. slope of Wansfeli (p. 385) to
the top of the Kirkstone Pass (1500 ft.), between Bed Screes
(2540 ft.) on the left and Caudate Moor (2500 ft.) on the right.
About 200 yds. below the col we pass the Traveller's Rest, a small
inn, which is sometimes wrongly described as the highest inhabited
house in England (comp. p. 371). About as far on the other side
of the col, to the left, is the stone that gives name to the pass; it
is supposed to look like a 'kirk' from a point about halfway down.
Brothers' Water comes into sight in front, with Place Fell, rising
above Ullswater, in the distance. 2'/2 M. Brotters' Water Inn.
y2 M. Brothers' Water (520 ft.), /3 M. square said to derive its
1
,

name from the drowning of two brothers. Below Brothers' Water

the road crosses the outlet of Hayes Water, turns to the left, and
crosses (Y2 M.) the Ooldrill Beck. Wenow descend through Patter-
dale, passing the mouth of Deepdale, between Fairfield and St.
Sunday's Crag, on the left, and soon reach the hamlet of (l 3/4 M.)
Patterdale (p. 390). Ullswater Hotel (p. 390) is about 1 M. farther on.

b. Ullswater Section.
Travellers who enter the Lake District on the Ullswater side
leave the railway at Penrith (p. 374), whence several Coaches (fare
2s.) ply daily in summer to Pooley Bridge (5^2 M. 1 hr.), situated
;

at the lower end of the lake. The road leads to the S.W. and crosses
(1 M.) Eamont Bridge (small inn with two old inscriptions). A little
to the E. (left) are Brougham Hall and Castle (p. 374). A little
farther on we diverge to the right from the road to Kendal and pass
between Mayburgh (right) zniKing Arthur's Bound Table (left), two
circular enclosures of unknown origin (see Scott's 'Bridal of Trier-
1
main ). At (1 M.) Yanwath the road crosses the L. N.W. Railway.
Farther on it passes (1 M.) Tirril and the old parish-church of Barton.
Walkers may turn to the S. at the station, without entering the town,
and follow the left (W.) bank of the Eamont. The route passes (3 M.)
Dalemain Ball and crosses Dunmallet BUI (view).
Pooley Bridge (*Sun) is a small village situated at the lower end
of * Ullswater (477 ft.; 'Ulf's water'), the second in size of
English lakes, measuring 9 M. in length and '/4- 3/4 M. in breadth.
390 Route 48. ULLSWATER. The Lake

Its greatest depth is 210 ft.. The scenery of the lake, -which some
prefer to that of Derwentwater and "Windermere , increases in pic-
turesqueness and grandeur as we approach the head. No general
view of the lake is obtainable, as its bendings divide it into three
reaches, each of which from some points seems a complete lake in
itself. There is a good road along the whole of the W. side of the
lake, but on the more precipitous E. bank the road stops at the en-
trance of Boredale (see p. 391). Boats may be hired at the hotels
to fish in the lake boat and man 5s. per day.
;

The small Steamer which plies on the lake (fares 2s., U. 6d.; return
3s., 2s.), taking 1 hr. to reach the upper end, starts from a small pier, i/\ M.
from Pooley Bridge. The scenery of the first reach, 3 M. in length, is rather
tame. At the foot of the lake rises the wooded hill of Dunmallet. To the
right is the Brackenrigg Hotel, 1 3A M. from Pooley Bridge. Hoatoum (p. 391),
the only intermediate station, lies in a hay to the left. Opposite is the
point of Skelly Nab, The middle reach, 4 M. long, extends to the islet of
House Holme. To the left rise Hallin Fell (1270 ft.) and Brick Fell (1670 ft.),
with Boredale and the hamlet of Scmdwick hetween them. To the right
are Gowbarrow Fell (1580 ft.) the finely-wooded Gowbarrow Park (forever
,

associated with Wordsworth's 'Daffodils'), and Lyulph's Tower (see below).

In front of us rises the stately Helvellyn. Wenow turn to the left into
the upper reach, 2 M. long, which contains a few islets. The "View here is
very grand. To the left Place Fell (2154 ft.) descends abruptly into the lake;
opposite is the wood-clad Stybarrow Crag. At the head, of the lake lies
Patlerdale, at the foot of St. Sunday's Crag (2756 ft.) The steamboat-pier
is near the tJllswater Hotel, about Va M. from the head of the lake.
Patterdale [Patterdale Hotel, well spoken of; White Lion, un-
pretending; Lodgings) is a small village, delightfully situated at
the foot of the valley of that name and close to the head of Ullswater.
It is a favourite centre for excursions in the N.E. part of the Lake
District. About 1 M. to the N., on the E. bank of the lake, near
the steamboat-pier, is the large * Ullswater Hotel (table d'hote
4s, K. & A. 4s.) with pleasant grounds. Near it is a Temperance
,

Hotel. On the hillside above the Ullswater Hotel are the Oreenside
Lead Mines which send a stream of polluted water into the lake.
,

The favourite short excursion from Patterdale is that to Aira Force

(4 M.), which may be made either by land or by water. In the former
case we follow the prettily-wooded road along the W. bank of the lake,
passing (3'/2 M.) the road to Troutbeck station (p. 397), to the beck just
beyond it. We cross the heck and ascend by the path to the left to
(V2 31.) the To the right is Lyulph's Tower, a square ivy-clad build-
fall.
ing, the of which, like that of the lake itself, is said to commem-
name
orate a Baron de L'Ulf of Greystoke. A
guide may be obtained here
(unnecessary). For the water-route , which affords better views , small
boats may be obtained either at the Patterdale or the Ullswater Hotel.
The fall of *Aira Force, 70 ft. high, is very romantically situated in a
rocky chasm with wooded sides. Two rustic bridges cross the stream
above and below the fall and afford convenient points of view. The
scenery of the glen above the fall is also picturesque, and another pretty
little fall is formed higher up. A path leads along the left bank of the
stream through Gowbarrow Park to (1 M.) Dockray (p. 397), but the gates
are generally locked (comp p. 397). — The following is a fine round of
10-12 M. (4 hrs.) from Patterdale. Wetake the lane leading to the E.
from the church and follow the track along the E. bank of the lake.
(Visitors at the TJllswater Hotel may save 2 M. by ferrying across to
Bleauick ) The higher of the two paths on the slope of Place Fell com-
mands charming views of dale and fell. Afk-r l'/a M. the path descends
 District. ULLSWATER. 45. Route. 391

to the shore and rejoins the lower path, and after

iM. more it turns to
the right, away from the lake, and leads round a plantation. At (IM.)
Sandwick, a hamlet at the entrance to Martindale (view of High Street in
the background), a road diverges to the right. Our path leads straight
on through wood and along the base of Ballin Fell (1270 ft.), follows the
line of the shore, bends to the right 1 M. farther on, and after V« M. more
joins the road about 1/4 M. short of Howtown ('.ffoie J)- From Howtown we
at first follow the road, which ascends past the church and the
hamlet of
Cowgarth, to the (1 M.) saddle between Hallin Fell on the right and Steel
Knotts (1190 ft.) on the left. It then descends, crosses a beck, and turns
to the right towards Sandwick (see above). About 200-300 yds. from
the
bridge, however, we turn to the left and follow the road leading through
Bore dale. The road crosses C/4 M.) the stream, and ends at the farm-
house at (IM.) Boredale Bead. From this point we ascend by a steep
bridle-path to (i»/« M.) Boredale Bauae (1200 ft. ; view). The descent on
the other side to i?/\ M.) Patterdale is short and steep.
Fkom Patterdale to Hawes Watek. The easiest route is to take
the steamer to Howtown, the land-journey to which has been described
above, and ascend thence (2V2-3 hrs.). Those who wish to drive must
start from Pooley Bridge (to Mardale Green 15 IS..). At Howtown we pass
through a gate at the back of the hotel and ascend to the S. through the
glen of Fusedale, at first on the left and then on the right bank of the
beck. In about Vz hr. we bend to the left, up the fell, and soon cross a
little stream (no path). Blencathara now appears in our rear and Hel-
vellyn to the right, while High Street is visible to the 8. On reaching
the (V« hr.) top of the ridge (Weather Hill, 2174 ft.) we have a fine
mountain view to the S. and W. In descending we bear to the left and
cross the ( 3/4 M.) Measand Beck by a foot-bridge we saw from above. In
10 min. more we reach the road on the bank of the lake, which leads
to the W. (right) to #1/4 M.) Mardale Green (see below). — The direct
route from Patterdale to Hawes Water leads by Kidsty Pike (4-5 hrs.). We
follow the Windermere road for about 2 M., and at the point where it
turns to the right, just below Brothers' Water (see p. 389), we keep
straight on through the hamlet of Low Bartsop. About V2 M. farther up
our road (a cart-track) crosses the Hayes Water Beck, recrossing it in 7z M.
more, and passing near the foot of Bayes Water (1343 ft.). We then as-
cend in zigzags to the ( 3A-1 hr.) top of the ridge. From thiSjpoint we
may diverge to the right and ascend to the top of Bigh Street (2663 ft.),
which commands an extensive view. [The name of High Street is de-
rived from an old Roman road that ran near the top of the ridge; some
traces of it may be discerned near the summit of High Street.] Kidsty
Pike (2560 ft.) rises in front, to the left. The direct route for Mardale
Green keeps straight on through a gate in the wall at the top of the ridge,
whence we have a steep and somewhat rough descent of about 1 hr.
Hawes Water (694 ft), 21/2 M. long and 1/3 M. wide, is a solitary
little lake, embosomed among lofty mountains. Fair quarters may be
obtained in the Dun Bull Inn at Mardale Green, 1 M. from the head of
the lake. The lower end of the lake is 5 J/2 M. from Shap (p. 374) by
footpath and 7'/2 M. by road via Bampton. Good walkers may also go on
to Windermere (12y2 M. ; 4Va-5V» hrs.) by the Nan Bield Pais (2050 ft.),
Kentmere, and the Garbourn Pass (1450 ft. ; fine views in descending). Or
they may ascend Bigh Street (i l /2-2 hrs.; see above) and descend by the
Troutbeck glen to Windermere (3-3V2 hrs.).
Mountain Ascents fkom Patterdale. The ascent of Place Fell (2154 ft.;
view) takes about I-IV2 hr. We ascend nearly to the top of Boredale
Bouse (see above), and then diverge to the left and climb the ridge. The
descent may be made to the road through Boredale (see above). — To reach
the top of St. Sunday's Crag (2756 ft. ; IV2 hr.) we leave Patterdale by
the bridle-path through Grisedale (comp. p. 388), and beyond (IV2 M.) the
farm of JEhn Bow turn to the left and ascend a zigzag green path, on the
right bank of a beck, to the 0/2 hr.) top of the ridge, where we turn to
the right towards the (V2 hr.) summit. The top commands a good view of
Ullswater andHelvellyn. The descent may be made along the ridge and
392 Route 48. KESWICK. The Lake-

straight down to Pattordale. —

Helvellyn (3118 ft. ; p. 388) may be ascended
either via, Glenridding (3-4 hrs.) or by Red Tarn (2-2V2 hrs.), the latter
being the shorter but steeper route (pony and guide 12s.-, on the second
route the ponies must be left at the tarn, V2 M. from the top). By the
Glenridding route we leave the high-road opposite the TJllswater Hotel
and ascend the cart-track to (IV2 M.) Greenside Smelting Mill. Here
we avoid the track to the right, and follow the bridle-path in a straight
direction. Near Keppelcove Tarn (1825 ft.) the path ascends in zigzags
to the right, afterwards bending to the left, and soon reaching the top
of the ridge, where we turn to the left (path no longer distinct), and
reach the summit in V« hr. more. Walkers may shorten the distance
a little by ascending to the left of Keppelcove Tarn. For the more
interesting Red Tarn route we follow the Grisedale path (p. 388) for
about V2 M- and turn to the right, crossing the beck, at a sign-post. The
pony-track from this point to a gateway about 2 M. farther is well marked,
and beyond the gateway we come in sight of the Red Tarn (2356 ft.), the
highest sheet of water in the Lake District. We keep to the right of the
tarn and climb steeply to the top of the Swirrel Edge, along which a
narrow path leads to the summit. Mountaineers may diverge to the left at
the gateway and ascend by Striding Edge. Descent to Wythburn or Thirls-
pot, see p. 3S8; to Grasmere, see p. 388. — A good and easy Mountain Walk
(5 hrs.), commanding excellent views, is the round by Bart Crag (2700 ft.;
to the S.), Fairfield (p. 333), and St. Sunday's Crag (p. 388).
From Patterdale to Keswick, see p. 397 (various routes; for walkers
the best is over Helvellyn and down to Thirlspot, 5-6 hrs.; the easiest and
quickest route is by Troutbeck); to Windermere (and Ambleside) by the
Kirkstone Pass, see p. 339; to Grasmere by the Grisedale Pass, see p. 388.

c. Keswick and Derwentwater Section.

Keswick. — Hotels. "Keswick Hotel, at the station, V* M fr° > m
the town, a large establishment with 200 beds; "Queen's, in the main
street, R. & A. 3-4s.; Koyal Oak, at the corner of the road to the station;
Lake Hotel, with a view of the lake, well spoken of, R. & A. 3s. Gd.
—
King'sAkms; *Skim>aw Temperance, unpretending. At Portinscale, IV2M.
;

from the station *Debwentwateb Hotel.

: — Lodgings may also be obtained.
Coaches run daily from Keswick to Borrowdale (Gd., return is.), Gras-
mere (4s. Gd. ; return 7s. Gd.), Ambleside (5s., Is. Gd.), Buttermere (there
and back 5s.), and Windermere (6s. Gd., 10s. 3d.). Ho fees. —Motel Omni-
buses from the station to the town (id.
Boats on Derwentwater Is. per hour, 5s. per day; with boatman 2s.
for the first hr. and Is. Gd. for each addit. hr. ; 10s. per day.
Fishing. The lake contains trout, perch, pike, and eels, and some of
the rivers in the neighbourhood are good trout-streams. Angler's ticket
fur the district Is. per day, 2s. Gd. per month, 5s. for the season.
Railway from Penrith or Cockermouth to Keswick, see p. 374.
Keswick, a small market-town with 3300 inhab., is situated on
the S. bank of the Greta, close to Derwentwater Lake and amid much
fine mountain-scenery of which , however , scarcely a glimpse is
,

seen from the town itself. The interesting little Crosthwaite Church,
/2 M. from the centre of the town, beyond the bridge over the Greta,
i

at the lower end of the main street, contains a monument to

Southey (inscription by Wordsworth). On an eminence to the right,
on this side the bridge, is Greta Hall, the home of Southey in 1803-
43. Shelley also lived at Keswick for a time after his marriage.
Near Greta Hall are two Lead Pencil Manufactories, to which strangers
are admitted. The process of pencil-making is interesting; but the fam-
ous Borrowdale plumbago is now scarce, and the quality of the pencils
usually offered for sale is not of a high class. — There is an interesting
Model of the Lake District (3 in. to the milej in the town-hall (adm. Gd.),
 .District. DERWENTWATER. 48. Route. 393

and one on a larger scale (6 in. to the mile) in Mayson's book-shop, on

the way to the lake (adui. 6d.).
*Derwentwater (238 ft), a lake 3 M. long, 1 M. -wide, and 70 ft.
deep at the deepest points is perhaps the loveliest of the English
,

lakes. Its compact form enables it to be taken in at one view. The

picturesque variety of the steep wooded crags and green hills rising
from its bank, and the grouping of its wooded islets are very beau-
tiful. The best views of the lake include a fine mountain-back-
ground with Skiddaw towering to the N. and Borrowdale opening
,

to the S. The largest islands are Derwent Isle (with a house on it),
Lord Isle, and St. Herbert's Isle on the last is the ruined cell of a
;

hermit of the 7th century. The 'Floating Island', which appears

at intervalson the surface of the lake, consists of a mass of weeds
made buoyant by the escape of gas from decayed vegetable matter.
The lake may be surveyed from several admirable points of view
near Keswick. Perhaps the best is "Castle Head, or Castlet, a small wooded
height (530 ft.), lk M. to the 8. of the town, on the left side of the Bor-
rowdale road (see below). We leave the road by a wicket-gate and fol-
low a winding path to the summit, where we overlook the whole ex-
panse of the lake. At the 8. end is the fine entrance to Borrowdale, appar-
ently blocked by the conical Castle Crag. To the right of Castle Oag,
in the distance, are Oreat End and the Scafell Pikes. At the 8.W. corner
of Derwentwater itself rises Maiden Moor, sloping rapidly downwards (to
the N.) to Cat Bells. Behind these we see parts of ffindscarth and Ro-
binson, and a little to the right and still farther back, High Stile, Red
Pike, and other fells enclosing Buttermere (p. 396). To the N. of the gap
beyond Cat Bells rise Causey Pike, with its curious hump, and Qrise-
dale Pike; then come the fells above Bassenthwaite Lake, which is itself
seen at full length. To the N. is Skiddaw. The view to the E. is limited,
but Belvellyn peeps over the high ground in front. The wooded heights
on the E. side of the lake are Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag. A —
closer view of the lake, resembling that from Castle Head, is ob-
tained from the 'Friar's Crag, a small rocky promontory jutting into
the lake, about 3I\ M. from the town. To reach it we diverge to the
right from the Borrowdale road, opposite the Lake Hotel. —
What Southey
described as the best general view of Derwentwater is obtained near Ap-
plethwaite, about 2 M. to the N. of Keswick. We cross the Greta by the
bridge mentioned above, turn to the right, cross the railway, and take
the ('/i M.) lane to the right. Beyond O/2 M.) Ormathwaite the lane bends
round to the left and soon reaches (V2 M.) Applethwaite. The point of
view praised by Southey is between Applethwaite and ( 8/4 M.) Miltbeck.
Circuit op Dbrwbntwatbb. by Road (10 M. can. about 10s.).
;

This is a charming walk or drive affording a series of varied and

,

beautiful views. The best plan is to begin with the E. bank and return
on the other side. We leave Keswick by the street which branches
.

to the right (S.E.) behind the town-hall, and pass the Church of St.
John and (1/2 M.) Castle Head (see above). For the next mile or
so the road passes through the thickets at the base of Wallow Crag
(see above), which is succeeded by the picturesque Falcon Crag. At
a point about 2 M. from Keswick the road to Watendlath (p. 395)
diverges to the left. Just beyond this is the lodge of Barrow House,
where we may apply for permission to visit the Barrow Falls. These
falls, about 126 ft. in total height, are among the least attractive in
the district, but a digression to them takes a few minutes only.
394 Route 48. BORROWDALE. The Lake

Almost immediately after leaving Barrow we see in front of us,

1 M. off, the Lodore Hotel, with the Lodore Falls in the gorge to
the left. The falls (reached from the hotel in a few minutes) are
romantically framed with tall wooded crags; hut as there is
usually more rock than water, Southey's jingling verses are re-
sponsible for a good deal of disappointment. Those who have time
should make their way up the beck to the *High Lodore, another fall
about Y2 M. farther up not far from the Watendlath road (more
,

easily reached by a path near the Borrowdale Hotel). About

Y2 M. beyond the Lodore Hotel is the *Borrowdale Hotel, which
is conveniently situated for excursions in Borrowdale, but does not
command so good a view of Derwentwater. At the (3/4 M.)
village of Orange we diverge to the right from the road through
Borrowdale (see below) and cross the Derwent. We pass through
the village, turn to the right, and ascend to (3/4 M.) the farm of
Manesty. Just beyond this the grass-grown old road diverges to
the left, and as it affords better views than the modern road the
pedestrian should follow it. The ridge to the left commands a good
view of Newlands (p. 396). A lead-mine is passed on the right.
At the end of the Cat Bells ridge , about l 3/4 M. from Manesty,
the two roads unite. About y4 M. farther on , our road is joined
on the left by another road descending from Skelgill, and we
turn sharply to the right , passing through a gate. Nearly oppo-
site this gate , to the right ,is a wicket from which a footpath
,

leads through the woods to Portinscale, rejoining the road M.^

before reaching the village. After Y2 M. at a finger-post, our road
,

unites with that coming from Buttermere (comp. p. 396). iy4 M.

Portinscale (*Derwentwater Hotel, see p. 392 Lodgings) is a small
;

village,
pleasantly situated near the lake. The distance from
Portinscale to Keswick by road is iy4 M., but about Y2 M. is
saved by a footpath diverging to the right beyond the bridge.
*Fuom Keswick to Buttermere bx Borrowdale and Honister
Hause, returning by Newlands, a round of 22 M. Public con-
veyances make this round daily (fare 5s., driver Is.), starting
about 10 a.m. allowing time to visit the principal objects of inter-
,

est on the way, and for luncheon at Buttermere, and reaching Kes-
wick again about 6 p.m. This is perhaps the finest drive in the
kingdom and should on no account be omitted. —
The route as
far as (4y4 M.) the entrance of Borrowdale has been described
above. Instead of crossing the bridge at Grange we go straight
on, and soon reach a (Y2 M.) slate-quarry, where a road diverging
to the left ascends to (5 min.) the Bowder Stone. This is a huge
mass of rock, estimated to weigh about 2000 tons, which has fallen
from the neighbouring crags and settled in a wonderfully-balanced
poise. The top of the stone (reached by a ladder; fee to cottager)
affords an admirable view of the beautiful valley of ^Borrowdale,
with the richly - tinted rocks at its entrance, the wooded Castle
 District. BUTTERMBRE. 48. Route. 395

Crag opposite, and Qlaramara (2360 ft. ; due S.) and other sum-
mits forming its wider environment. Beyond the Bowder Stone
the lane descends again to the high - road which brings us to the
,

(174 M.) village of Bosthwaite (*Royal Oak, *Scafell Hotel, un-

pretending), prettily situated in the middle of the valley.
Walkers to Rosthwaite should vary their return to Keswick by following
the bridle-track to (2 M.) the hamlet and tarn of Watendlath. The road
thence to (5 M.) Keswick joins the above-described road near the Barrow
This is an easy route, commanding exquisite views.
Falls (comp. p. 394).
— Routes over the State Pass and Sty Bead Pass, see pp. 396, 397.
Beyond Rosthwaite the road to the Stake diverges to the left
near the ('/a M.) Church; and the path to the Sty Head Pass diverges
on the same side 3/4 M. farther on, near Seatoller, a hamlet with
some lodging-houses. At Seatoller begins the steep and rough ascent
to the (IV2 M.) Honister Hause (1190 ft.). At the top of the pass
we come in sight of the striking * Honister Crag (1750 ft.) which ,

rises almost perpendicularly to the left. Its face is seamed with

slate -quarries. The descent on the other side is very steep
at first. Buttermere and Crummock Water come into view as we
descend. The fells rising above them (named from left to right)
are High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike, Mellbreak, and Robinson.
At the foot of the pass is the (2^2 M.) farm-house of Qatesgarth,
whence we see the Scarf Qap Pass, ascending to the left of High
Crag. Beyond Gatesgarth we skirt the N. bank of Buttermere,
passing the mansion of Hasness, and reach (7 M.) the village of
Buttermere (Victoria; Fish), where the coach stops for 3 hrs.
Buttermere Lake (330 ft.), l l/t M. long, 1/3 M. wide, and 90 ft. deep, is
connected by a short slream with 'Crummock Water (320 ft.), s/« M. to
the N.W., which is 2y4 M. long, y>-»/4 M. wide, and 130 ft. deep. The
interval allowed by the coach is generally occupied with luncheon and
a visit to "Scale Force. This waterfall, 160 ft. in height, one of the
finest in Lakeland, is in a glen on the 8. side of Crummock Water. It
may be reached by a footpath (about 2 M.; often wet), crossing the stream
between the lakes, but the usual route is to go by boat to the mouth of
the glen (fare Is. each, there and back) and walk thence to (3/4 M.) the
force. — From Scale Force good walkers may cross the fells to the W.
to (l 3/4 M.) Floutern Tarn (1250 ft. ; pronounced 'Flootern') and the (2>/4 M.)
Angler's Inn, at the foot of Ennerdale Water (370 ft.). From Ennerdale
Water they may ascend Upper Ennerdale, or the Valley of the Liza, and at
the head of it follow either the Scarf Qap Pass to Buttermere on the left, or
the Black Sail Pass to Wasdale Head on the right (p. 399). Or they may
proceed direct to Wasdale Head over the Pillar or the Steeple (comp. p. 3.99).
Red Pike (2480 ft.), though not the highest peak in the neighbourhood,
commands the best view. The ascent may be combined with a visit
to Scale Force (2-3 hrs.), but the shortest route (l'/4 -l 3A hr.) is by the
Ruddy Beck, the stream flowing into the S.W. angle of Crummock Water.
The descent may be made by Bleaberry Tarn and Sour Milk Gill, the stream
descending to Buttermere. The characteristic feature of the view is the
large number of lakes and tarns. The large lake to the W. is Ennerdale
Water (370 ft.), 2i/s M. long and 1/3-2/3 M. broad. To the N.W. of Crum-
mock Water is the lakelet called Lowes Water. — From Buttermere to
Wasdale Bead vid Scarf Gap & Black Sail Passes (3-4 hrs.), see pp. 398, 399.
The road to the N. , skirting the bank of Crummock Water, leads
to (10 M.) Cockermcuth (p. 376). Our road leads to the E. from
^
the village of Buttermere, and ascends to the top of (l 1 M.) But-
 ;

396 Route 48. WHINLATTER PASS. The Lake

termere Hause (1100 ft.), between Robinson (2417 ft.) on the right
and Whiteless Pike (2160 ft.) on the left. It then traverses the
upland valley of Keskadale and descends through the somewhat
uninteresting valley of Newlands. 3 1 /i M. Newlands Hotel; 1 M.
Stair; l /% M. Swinside (Inn). About l /4 M. farther on we join the
road round Derwentwater, at the finger-post mentioned at p. 394.
Another route from Keswick to (14 M.) Buttermere leads by the
Whinlattek Pass. The road leads to the W. from (iy4 M.) Portimcale
(p. 394) to (IV2 M.) Braithwaile (Inn), beyond which the ascent to the
top of the (2 M.) Whinlatter Pass (1040 ft.; Inn) begins. About 1V4 M.
farther on we diverge to the left from the road to Cockermouth (p. 315)
and proceed, past (2 M.) Swinside, to (3 M.) the Scale Bill Hotel, 1/2 M.
from the foot of Crummock Water (p. 395). For walkers the distance
hence to Buttermere village, by the road skirting the E. bank of Crum-
mock Water, is about 31/2 M. From the Scale Hill Hotel we may go on by
Lowes Water to Lamplugh or to (11 M.) Ennerdale Water (Angler's Inn).
A fine route from Keswick to Buttermere, with splendid views, is
afforded by the 'Mountain Walk (6-7 hrs.) over Cat Bells (p. 394), Maiden
Moor, Dale Head, and Robinson (see above).
From Keswick to Thirlmere by the Druids' Circle and
Vale or St. John (J 1/^, M.) We leave Keswick by the Penrith
road, diverging to the right from the road to the station, and cross
the railway twice, first passing under it and then over it. We then
take the second turning to the right, and after about Y2 M. (1 M.
from Keswick) pass a lane on the right, just beyond which is a
stile leading into the field with the Druidical Stones. Of these
there are about forty , arranged in an irregular circle the largest
;

are about 7'/2 ft. high. The old Penrith road joins the new
one i/2 M. beyond the Druid Circle, just before it crosses the Naddle
Beck. About Y3 M. farther on, our road diverges to the right from
the Penrith road crosses (1 M.) Wanthwaite Bridge and reaches
, ,

the main road through the pretty Vale of St. John , ascending on
the E. side of the St. John's Beck. To the left are the Wanthwaite
Crags. At the head of the vale rises the Castle Rock (p. 384).
Thirlspot (p. 384) is about A l /2 M. from the bridge. Thirlmere, see
p. 384. We may cross the lake by the foot-bridge and return along
the E. bank to Smaithwaite, on the Windermere and Keswick road,
where drivers may order their carriage to meet them.
From Keswick to Dungeon Gill by the Stake Pass (472-5 hrs.
pony and guide from Rosthwaite 15s.). Driving is practicable as
far as (6 Y2 M.) Rosthwaite, see p. 395. Near the church, V2 M. beyond
Rosthwaite, we diverge to the left from the Buttermere road and
proceed to C/3 M.) Stonethwaite, both before and after which we
may take several short-cuts through the fields (to the left of the
road). About 3/4 M. beyond Stonethwaite we turn to the right,
cross the Langstrath Beck (Y4 M.) by a foot-bridge, and ascend
by a rough path on its right bank. After crossing a tributary,
2 M. farther on we leave the Langstrath Beck the valley of
, ,

which here bends to the right, and ascend in zigzags, in the

direction we have hitherto been following, to P/4 M.) the top of
 District. STICKS PASS. 48. Route. 397

the Stake Pass (1576 ft.) , between Stickle Pike (p. 386) on tlie
left and Rossett Crag on the right. We now cross a bleak upland
plateau for about 1 M., and then descend, along the right side of
the beck flowing through Mickleden, to (2*/2 M -) Old Dungeon
Gill Hotel (see p. 386). To Ambleside, see p. 386.
From Keswick to Pattbedalb by the Sticks Pass, 11 M.
(driving practicable for 5 M.). We follow the Ambleside road (see
pp. 384, 385) for about 5 M., to the point where it is joined by
the road through the Vale of St. John (p. 396). We follow the
latter for a few yards, and then diverge to the right through a gate.
The track passes the farm of Stanah crosses a beck a little way
,

beyond it. bends to the right , and ascends in zigzags. The top
of the Sticks Pass (2450 ft.), marked by sticks inserted in the
ground, forms part of the ridge of Helvellyn. Good retrospect of
Skiddaw , the Buttermere fells Scafell , etc. In front TJllswater,
,

now comes into sight. In descending we pass the Qreemide Reser-

voir and Lead Mine, and join the Glenridding ascent of Helvellyn
at the Oreenside Smelting Mill. Hence to Patterdale, see p. 392.
Good walkers in fine weather will do better to go from Keswick to
Patterdale via the top of Helvellyn (3-4 hrs. from Thirlspot), for which
sufficient directions will be found at pp. 388, 392, while others may prefer
the approach via Troutbeck (see below).
Feom Keswick to Patteedale via Troutbeck, I6V2 M., by railway
and coach (through-tickets 4s. 2d., 3*. 6d., 3s. 2d.; return 6*. 3d., 5s. 3d.).
Those who wish to drive the whole way must take this route. — Railway
from Keswick to (9 M.) Troutbeck (not to be confounded with Troutbeck
near Windermere), see p. 374. The first part of the route from Troutbeck
to TJllswater is dreary. The road leads due 8. from the station, and
ascends to its culminating point (ca. 1100 ft.) , to the W. (right) of the
rounded Well Fell (1760 ft.). We then descend to &>/t M. from Troutbeck)
Matterdale End, at the church of which, »/« M. beyond the village, a road
to the left leads to Oreystoke. At 0/2 M.) Dockray (Royal Hotel, plain),
where the scenery improves, our road is joined on the right by a cart-
track crossing the fells from Wanthwaite (see above). [Walkers should
leave the road here and descend on the other side of the beck, through
Gowbarrow Park. This is a private path but a guide with keys to open
,

the gates may be obtained at the inn. We pass through the farm-yard
opposite the inn, and then follow a path skirting the slope of Gowbarrow
Fell, on the left bank of the stream. We pass a picturesque old mill,
the pretty little High Force, and a quaint little gully, and finally reach
Aira Force (see p. 3E0). From Aira Force to Patterdale. see pp. 390, 391.]
From Dockray we descend between Gowbarrow Fell and Park on the
left and the finely- wooded Glencoin on the right, and soon obtain a fine
•View of the head of TJllswater, with Place Fell, St. Sunday's Crag, etc.
We reach the bank of the lake IV2M. beyond Dockrav. Thence to (2 M.)
Vllswater Hotel and (i M.) Patterdale, see p. 390.
From Keswick to Wasdale Head by the Sty Hbad Pass,
14 M. (5-6 Driving is practicable to (9 M.) Seathwaite, and
hrs.).
ponies can go the whole way (pony and guide from Rosthwaite 15s.).
FTom Keswick to (7^2 M.) Seatoller, see p. 395. Just before
Seatoller we pass through a gate to the left and follow a lane, which
skirts the Derwent, first on the left and then on the right bank.
By diverging to the right, before crossing the C/4 M.) bridge, we may
visit Wordsworth's 'fraternal four of Borrowdale' (a group of yews), and
'follow the path on the same side, past the Plumbago Mine, to Seathwaite,
 ;

398 Route 48. STY HEAD PASS. The Lake

About3/4 M. beyond the bridge we reach the hamlet of Seathwaite,

said to be the rainiest place in England, the annual rain-fall
averaging 150 inches. The Plumbago Mine, which formerly pro-
duced admirable lead for pencils (comp. p. 392) is almost ex-
,

hausted. At Seathwaite the cart-track ceases, and we follow the

path on the right bank of the stream. At the head of the valley
Qreat End (see below) raises its perpendicular front; to the left
rises Qlaramara (2560 ft.), and to the right Base Brown (2120 ft.).
At (1 M.) Stockley Bridge we cross the Derwent, pass through a
gate and ascend to the W. towards Taylor's QUI Force. After
,

passing the fall we bend to the left, following the course of the
beck, cross the stream, and reach the solitary (I1/4 M.) Sty Head
Tarn (1430 ft.) situated amidst scenery of the wildest descrip-
,

tion. To the right are Green Gable and Great Gable (2950 ft.)
in front Lingmell (2649 ft.) , Great End (2984 ft.) and Scafell
,

Pikes (3210 ft.). A few yards beyond the tarn the track leading
past the Sprinkling Tarn (1960 ft.) and over Esk Hause (2370 ft.)
to Dungeon Gill diverges to the left (comp. p. 387). Our path
goes straight on ,and very soon reaches the top of the Sty Head
Pass (1600 ft.) where the green valley of Wasdale comes in
,

sight below us. "Wast Water is concealed by Lingmell. The

descent is very steep and stony. (Those who have time and
strength to spare may diverge to the left visit Greta Fall and the
,

romantic gorge of Piers Gill, and rejoin the regular track at the
foot of the pass.) From (l 3 /4 M.) Burnthwaite Farm, now a tem-
perance inn a cart-track leads to the church, and a field-path to
,

the right to (Y2 M.) Wasdale Head Inn (see p. 400).

From Keswick (or Buttermere) to Wasdalb Head by Scarf
Gap and Black Sail Passes (road to Gatesgarth; bridle-path
thence 2 1 /2-3 1 /2 his.). Pony and guide from Buttermere about 15s.
From Keswick to Gatesgarth, either via Honister Hause or via New-
lands, see pp. 394, 395. At Gatesgarth our route diverges to the S.
from the'road, "passes through a gate, crosses (Y4 M.) a foot-bridge
over a beck, and begins to ascend. In about 72 hr. we reach the top of
the Scarf Gap (1400ft.), between High Crag (2443ft.) on the right
and Haystacks (1750 ft.) on the left. Fine retrospect of Butter-
mere. Tn front rises Kirkfell (2630ft.), with Great Gable (see above)
to its left and the Pillar On the slope of the latter
to the right.
rises the lofty PillarlRock, the ascent of which is dangerous ex-
cept for very expert cragsmen. We
now descend into the lonely
upper part of Ennerdale, through which flows the Liza. On reach-
ing the (Y4 hr.) floor of the valley , the path ascends along the
right^bank of the stream for about V2 M-» and then crosses it by
a small foot-bridge (sign-posts). It then ascends again, skirting a
small mountain-torrent, to (74 hr.) *Black Sail Pass (1750ft.), the
depression between Kirkfell on the left and the Pillar on the right.
[A mistake is sometimes made here, as the traveller is apt to be-
 District. SKIDDAW. 48. Route. 399

lievc that the Black Sail Pass must lead through the more inviting
depression to the left of Kirkfell, between it and Great Gable. "We
must therefore take care to keep to the right of Kirkfell.] The
sceneTy here is very wild and sombre. Looking back, we see (from
right to left) Great Gable, Green Gable, Brandreth, Haystacks , and
High Crag, with Fleetwith Pike rising behind Haystacks, and
Robinson and GrasmooT in the distance. In front lies Mosedale,
with Red Pike (2630 ft. ; not to be confounded with the Red Pike
at Buttermere) to the right and Yewbarrow (2058 ft.) to the left.
In descending we bear to the left and obtain a sudden *View of Sea-
fell (p. 401). The fell to the S.W. of the Pillar is called the Steeple
(2746 ft.). Wasdale Head and Wast Water, see pp. 400,401.
These two routes may be easily combined in one day's excursion from
Keswick by making an early start. The necessary walking may be reduced
to a very reasonable amount (4-6 hrs.) by driving to Seathwaite and ordering
the carriage to wait at Gatesgarth; or the traveller may hire a pony
(see p. 398) and avoid walking altogether. —
Those who wish to go
from Keswick to Wast Water without the fatigue of crossing any of the
passes may drive via Braithwaile, Whinlatter Pass, Scale Hill Hotel
(p. 396), Lamplugh, Egrernont, and Calder Bridge, to (34 M.) Strands (p. 400),
situated near the foot of the lake, 6 M. from Wasdale Head.
SS Mountain Ascents from Keswick. — Skiddaw'(3058 ft.), the fourth
highest summit in the Lake District, is probably the easiest mountain of its
size to ascend in England (up and down 4-6 hrs.). Ponies (5s.) can go all
the way to the top -, guide, unnecessary, 6*. We pass below the railway, to
the right (E.) of the station , turn to the left, and then take the O/4 M.)
second turning to the left (Spoony Qreen Lane ; numerous guide-posts). This
lane skirts the slope of Latrigg (1203 ft. ; a spur of Skiddaw), the top of
which is easily reached in about a /2 hr. (by a railed-in path) and commands
a charming view. The lane turns to the right round the "S. side of Latrigg
and passes through a (l 1 /4 M.) gate into a road coming from Applethwaite.
About 50 yds. farther on, this road ends at another gate, through which
we pass on to the open fell. We then ascend to the left along a wall,
through which we pass by a gate near a ( 3 /« M.) refreshment-hut. The
ascent hence to O/2 M.) another refreshment- hut is the steepest part of
the climb (fine retrospects). Beyond the second hut the trackibends slightly
to the left and soon becomes almost level. It keeps a little to the right of the
top of the Low Man (2837 ft.), the S. buttress of the summit-ridge, which
commands a better, because nearer, view of Lakeland than the 'High Man'.
The distance hence to the top is about 1 M. The view to the S. includes
a great part of the Lake District, but the fells are too distant to be seen
to advantage. The Coniston Old Man is visible in the distance, and Helvellyn
is conspicuous to the S.E. Immediately to the E., between Skiddaw and
Blencathara, is the wild moorland tract called Skiddaw Forest. On the
N. the view extends to the Solway Firth and the mountains of Kirkcud-
bright and Dumfries. To the W. is the sea. — The descent is usually made
by the same route, but those who wish variety may descend by the N.W.
side to High Side, BV2 M. from Keswick and 4 M. from Bassenthwaite
Lake Station (p. 375). Another descent leads by the Carl Side (2400 ft.)
to Millbeck (p. 393). — The ascent of Blencathara or Saddleback (2847 ft.),
with its fine 'Sharp Edge', is in many respects preferable to that of Skid-
daw, though it is less easily accessible. The direct ascent and descent
from the village of (3'/2 M.) Threlkeld (see p. 374) take 3>/2-4 hrs., but
perhaps the best plan is to ascend by Scales Fell and follow the ridge
of the mountain from E. to W. (a round from Threlkeld of 4-5 hrs;
•Views). — The top of Helvellyn (3118 ft.) may be reached from Keswick
either via (51/2 M.) Thirlspot (p. 384) or by (8 M.) WytKburn (p. 384). The
actual ascent takes in the first case l 3/4-2V4 hrs., in the second i^/t-i^/t hr.
(pony and guide 10j.). At Thirlspot the pony-track, which can scarcely
400 Route 48. WAST WATER.
be missed, begins near the King's Head Inn and leads at first in a N.E.
direction. Just before reaching Fisher Gill it turns to the right and ascends
straight towards the summit. In about l>/2 hr. we reach the summit-ridge,
where the pony track from Glenridding (p. 392) joins ours on the left.
In V* hr. more we surmount the 'Low Man' (3033 ft.), which is about
10 min. from the 'High Man' , or summit. The Wythburn ascent is the
shortest and steepest. The bridle-path, also easily traced, leaves the road
opposite the inn and ascends along the right bank of a small beck.
Farther up it bends to the left, and about 1/2 M. from the top it unites
with the route from Grasmere (p. 388). View, see p. 388; descent to
Patterdale, see p. 392. —Among the smaller hills near Keswick, Latrigg
(see p. 399), Swinside (803 ft.; near Portinscale) , and Cat Bells (1482 ft.;
p. 393) are the best points of view. The ascents of High Seat (1996 ft.;
from the Watendlath road) and Glaramara (2560 ft.; from Eosthwaite)
are more fatiguing. — Active walkers will find the ascent of Great Gable
(2950 ft.) one of the most repaying in the district. The view from the top
is very line, including Wast Water, Scafell and Scafell Pikes, Skiddaw,
and Helvellyn. The ascent may be made either from the Sty Head Pass
A-1 hr.) or from the Honister Pass (p. 395; 2-3 hrs.) via Grey Enotts
3
(p. 398;
(2287 ft.) , Brandreth (2344 ft.) , and Green Gable (2474 ft.). The descent
may be made by Sty Head to Wasdale Head (p. 400).
Among other excursions from Keswick may be mentioned the *Walk
to (5 M.) Watendlath (p. 394; charming views), returning via (2 M.) Bos-
lliwaite and Borrowdale (in all 13V2 M.). —The easy way to visit Bassen-
thwaite Lake (226 ft.) is to take the train to (9 M.) Bassenthwaite station
(p. 375) and hire a boat at the Pheasant Inn. The scenery of the lake,
which is 4 M. long and 3/* M. broad, is rather tame.
From Keswick to Thirlmere, Grasmere, Ambleside, and Windermere by
coach, see p. 383; to Grasmere via Watendlath, see p. 385.

d. Wast Water and Scafell Section.

*Wast Water (204 ft. J 3 M. long and i/ 2 M. wide, is the
,

deepest lake in the district, attaining in some places a depth of

270 ft. The scenery around it is wild and imposing. The head of
the lake is enclosed by finely grouped mountains, including Scafell,
Lingmell, Great Gable, Kirk Fell, and Yewbarrow. On the W. side
of the lake the imposing cliffs of the Screes culminating in Illgill
,

Head (1980 ft.), rise sheer from the water's edge. The hank at the
lower end of the lake is richly wooded.
The small hut comfortable Wasdale Head Inn lies in a deep
and romantic hollow, surrounded by lofty mountains, about 1 M.
from the head of the lake. Ponies and guides may be obtained here
for numerous excursions including the ascent of Scafell Pike,
,

which towers over the E. side of the little valley. —

As the lake is
not seen to advantage from this point, the traveller should hasten
to

visit its lower end, in order to enjoy the view of the grand
moun-
tain-amphitheatre at its head.
The best plan perhaps to hire a boat, and go all the way by water
is
(Is. per hr.; with boatman 2s. 6d. per hr.; to
the foot of the lake and
back 5s ). There is a road along the W. bank, and even the most hurried
travellers should drive as far as Bowderdale, 1
M. from the head of the
lake Those who do not mind a little rough walking may make the round
of the Screes rhere are two
of the lake on foot, following the ridge
end of the lake, on the
inns at Strands, a small village 1 M. from the S.
ancient carved Cross, 10 tt. mgtO.
road to Gosforth (with an
The W side of the Wasdale valley is bounded by the huge
 :

District. SCAFELL GROUP. 48. Route. 401

Scafell or Scawfell Group , including its four principal summits

Scafell Pike (3210 ft.), Scafell (3162 ft.), Great End (2984 ft.),
and Lingmell (2649 ft.). The first of these is the highest mountain
in England, though surpassed by several peaks in Scotland and
Wales, and is best ascended from "Wasdale Head. Unlike that of
Skiddaw, the ascent oilers some genuine climbing ; and though the
ordinary routes are free from danger in good weather, it is better in
doubtful weather not to attempt the ascent alone (pony and guide
15*.). Ponies go to within 20 min. of the top.
Ascent of Scafell Pike, 2-2 ]/2 hrs. The ordinary and easiest route
from Waadale Head ascends along the S. side of Lingmell QUI, which we
reach by descending Wasdale for about 1 M. (to a point near Wast
Water) and then turning to the left. We follow up the course of the
stream for about 1/2 hr. and where it forks go straight up the green
,

space between the arms. About 10 min. higher up, on more level ground,
we bend to the left towards Lingmell, but turn again to the right, near
a wall. The last part of the route is marked by cairns. Throughout
this ascent Scafell, to the right, is more prominent than Scafell Pike.
— A finer but steeper route leads via Lingmell Beck and Piers Gill. We
proceed towards the N. to (V: M.) Burnthwaite, and then to the N.E. through
the valley between Oreat Sable and Lingmell, with Lingmell Beck to the
right. After about 10 min. the pony-track to the Sty Head Pass (p. 398)
diverges to the left, and in >/4 hr. more we turn sharply to the right and
ascend to the left of Pier's Gill. The path joins the one above described
in the hollow between Lingmell and Scafell Pike. (The pony-track goes
on to Esk Haute and then turns to the right.) — Scafell is also sometimes
ascended from Dungeon QUI (p. 386 3-4 hra. ; route marked by cairns), from
;

Rosthwaite (p. 395; 3-4 hrs.; cairns; pony and guide 15*.), and from Boot
(p. 377; 3-4 hrs.; path indistinct). —
The 'View from the top is extensive
and wild. It includes Skiddaw to the N ., Helvellyn to the N.E., High Street
to the E., a bit of Windermere and Ingleborough (p. 405; in the distance)
to the S.E., the Coniston Hills to the S., and the Isle of Han and the
sea to the S.W. and W. The view from Oreat End, the N.E. limb of the
Scafell group, easily reached from the top of Scafell Pike in 3/« hr., is
still finer. The top of Scafell, to the S., is somewhat less easy of ap-
proach, and the view it commands does not differ enough from that above
described to repay the trouble.
From Strands (see p. 400) roads lead westward to the railway-
stations of (7 M.) Drigg (Victoria Inn) and (8 M.) Seascale (Scaw-
the latter passing an early Cross,
fell Hotel, 'pens'. 6s. Qd.), that to
14 ft. Coaches run from Seascale to Wasdale Head (4s.) and
high.
to Ennerdale (4s.). — Boot (see p. 377) is reached from Wasdale
Head by a pony-track (6'/2 M.) leading past Burnmoor Tarn
(230 ft.), between Scafell on the left and Illgill Head (1980 ft.)
on the right. In Stanley Gill, about 1 M. to the S. of Boot, is
*Dalegarth Force (60 ft. high), which is, perhaps, the finest wa-
terfall in the Lake District. The key to the fall is kept at a cottage,
to which a sign-post directs and a guide (advisable) may also be
;

procured here. From Boot we may go on by the Wrynose Pass to

Ambleside (comp. p. 387).
From Wasdale Head to Keswick by the Sty Head Pass or the Black
Sail Pass, see pp. 398, 399.

Baedekeb's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 26

402

49. From London to Sheffield, Leeds, and Carlisle.

308 M. Midland Railway in 7-10 hrs. (fares 40j. 6d., 24«. 2y2 d.). —
For the sections composing the L. N. W. Route from London to Carlisle
(299 M., in 7V4-9 hrs. ; fares 40s. 6d., 32s., 24s. 2V**0, see RR. 36, 44a, 46.
From London (St. Pancras) to (120 M.) Trent Junction, see E.
44b. — The line follows the valley of the Erewash, now disfigured
with iron-works. 126 M. Ilkeston, the junction of lines to Derby
(p. 350) and to Nottingham and Kettering (see p. 354). Beyond
(130 M.) Langley Mill, to the left, are the ruins of Codnor Castle.
146 M. Chesterfield f* Angel ; Station), a busy manufacturing
town with 12,200 inhabitants. The curious twist of the spire of
the Parish Church (14-15th cent.) is probably due to the warping
of the wood-work below the leaden casing local legend ascribes it
;

to the devil. George Stephenson (d. 1848) is buried in Trinity Church.

About 7 M. to the S.E. of Chesterfield is Hardwick Hall ("Inn at the
entrance to the park), the seat of the Marquis of Hartington, an extensive
Elizabethan mansion, with numerous windows, erected in 1590-97 by 'Bess
of Hardwick , the building countess of Shrewsbury (p. 351), who was
1

born here in a house which her own superseded. Mary, Queen of Scots, is
said to have spent part of her captivity here. The Picture Qallery contains
interesting portraits. — Bolsover Castle, 6 M. to the E., was also begun by
'Bess of Hardwick'.
Chesterfield may also be made the starting-point of a visit to the
Peak (R. 45); it is 11-13 M. from Haddon and Chatsworth.
Beyond Chesterfield the loop-line by which the Scottish day-
express trains run diverges to the right, rejoining our line at Mas-
borough. — 154 M. Beauchieff is the station for Beauchieff Abbey
(p. 360). — 158 M. Sheffield (Rail Rfmt. Rooms), see p. 359.
163 M. Masborough (Prince of Wales) fonns part of Rotherham
(Crown; Royal), a smoky iron-working town to the right, with
35,000 inhabitants. * All Saints' Church is a good Perp. edifice.
From (167 M.) Swinton branch -lines diverge to Doncaster
(p. 405) and to Pontefract and York (p. 406). At (176 M.) Cud-
worth we cross the Hull and Barnsley Railway. —
181 M. Sandal
Walton is the junction for (3 M.) Wakefield (*Bull; Strafford
Arms; Rail Refreshmt. Rooms), the capital of the West Riding
of Yorkshire, with 31,000 inhab., a brisk trade in grain, wool, and
cattle, and numerous mills and manufactories. The handsome
*Parish Church (14-15th cent.) has been carefully restored and is
now the cathedral of the new bishopric of Wakefield (established in
1888). The Chantry on the bridge over the Calder is an interesting
relic (14th cent.). —
At (185 M.) Normanton (Rail. Refreshment
Rooms, table d'h6te 2s. Gd.) the Scottish expresses stop Y2 nr for -

dinner. Lines radiate hence to York, Goole, Dewsbury, etc.

196 M. Leeds. —
Hotels. "Queen's, at the Midland Station Gkeat ;

Northern Station, well spoken of; Griffin, commercial; Bull* Mouth;

Treveltan Temperance, well spoken of. —
Refreshment Rooms at the
Midland, G.N.R., and Joint (N. E. and L.N.W.) stations.
Leeds, the great centre of the cloth-industry, the first town in
Yorkshire, and the fifth in England, with 310,000 inhab., is situat-
 LEEDS. 49. Route. 403

ed on both banks of the Aire. It offers little to detain the tourist,

except a Yisit to some of its huge factories (introduction necessary).
The history of the town, though dating back to Saxon times, is
uneventful, and its principal buildings are modern. The chief
streets are the Briggate, containing the finest shops, and Welling-
ton Street, with the largest warehouses.
The Town Hall, in Park Lane, a large and ambitious structure
in the Palladian style with a Corinthian colonnade contains a
, ,

statue of Queen Anne presented to the town in 1712 (organ-recitals

in the great hall twice weekly). In front of it is a Statue of
Wellington, by Marochetti. The Museum (adm. Id.) of the Philo-
sophical Society, in Park Row, contains antiquarian zoological, ,

and geological collections. The Municipal Offices, the Exchange,

the ColiseUm, the White Cloth Hall (rebuilt), the Mixed Cloth Hall,
the Infirmary, the Mechanics' Institute, and the Unitarian Chapel
(Park Row) are also among the most prominent buildings. Most of
the large Factories are near the river. At the Red House, in Guild-
ford St., Charles I. was confined for a few days while being led cap-
tive to London. The Yorkshire College, at Beech Grove, is a mem-
ber of Victoria University (p. 338).
The chief churches are St. Peter's (of which Dean Hook was vic-
ar), St. Saviour's, St. John's (1634), and All Souls. Opposite the
Post Office is Mill Hill Chapel , founded in 1672 and rebuilt in
1849, of which Dr. Priestley (p. 258) was minister for seven years.
The
principal lungs of the town are Woodhouse Moor, to the
N., and *Roundhay Park (775 acres), to the N.E. the latter with
,

two lakes and a manor-house, now used as a hotel and restaurant.

About 3'/2 M. to the N.W. of Leeds, in the valley of the Aire, reached
either by tramway or railway (see p. 404), are the ruins of Kirkstall
Abbey (adm. 2d.), second to Fountains (p. 423) alone among Yorkshire
abbeys in extent and preservation. The surroundings, however, are now
spoiled by iron-works. The abbey, a Cistercian house, was founded in
the 12th cent., and most of the remains are in the late-Norman style. The
tower is Perp. The abbey now belongs to the town of Leeds. — Excur-
sions may also be made to (4 1 /* M.) Temple Newtam, the birthplace of Lord
Darnley ; Bolton Abbey (see below) ; and Harewood Cattle (p. 421). There is an
interesting, partly Norman church at Adel, 5 M. to the N.N.W. of Leeds.
The 'Shire Oak' at (2 M.) Headingley is 29 ft. in girth.
From Leeds to Ilkley, Bolton Abbe;, and Skipton, 25 M., railway
in fV2-l 3/4 hr. ; to Otley (11 M., in 1/2-i hr.).— The line diverges from
the main line beyond Calverley (p. 404). — At (9 M.) Menston Junction a
line diverges to the right to (2 M.) Otley (White Horse), a small town with
G8O0 inhab. and a partly Norman church. About IV2 M. to the N. is
Farnley Hall, containing the sword and hat worn by Cromwell at Marston
Moor, and other relics of the Civil War. Its celebrated collection of oil-
paintings and water-colours by Turner was sold in June, 1890. — 12 M.
Ben Rhydding , with a large and much-frequented Hydropathic Establish-
ment, in a fine, breezy situation. — 13 M. Ilkley (Crescent; 'Middleton;
Royal), a popular watering-place, with numerous hydropathic establish-
ments, is beautifully situated on the Wharfe. There are three curious
Saxon crosses in the churchyard. Pleasant walks may be taken amid
the heather-clad hills of the neighbourhood. Otley ana Ilkley may also
be reached from Leeds by the N. E. B. via Holbeck and Arthington. — 18 M.
26*
404 Route 49. BRADFORD. From London

Bolton Abbey Station (Devonshire Arms, ^2 M. from the abbey). — 'Bol-

ton Abbey, an Augustine foundation of the 12th cent., is situated amid
trees on the Wharfe. The chief part of the picturesque but not very ex-
tensive ruins is the Church, the E.E. and Dec. nave of which has been re-
stored and is used for service. The Perp. W. front was added by Prior
Moon in 1620. At the end of the single aisle is the Mauleverer Chantry,
in the vault below which the Mauleverers and Claphams are said to have
been interred in an upright posture, a tradition referred to by Wordsworth
in the 'White Doe of Rylstone'. [Rylstone lies about 14 M. to the N.E.]
To the W. of the Abbey is Bolton Ball, a modern residence of the Duke
of Devonshire, incorporating the ancient gateway that figures in Landseer's
well-known picture. The woods are open to visitors. On the Wharfe, l 3/t M.
above Bolton Abbey, is the narrow rapid called the Strid, the story of which
is told in Wordsworth's 'Force of Prayer'. — 25 M. Skipton, see below.
Fbom Leeds to Bradford and Halifax, 17'/2 M., railway in V2- 3A hr.
— 10 M. Bradford (Victoria; Alexandra; Talbot; Bail. Rfmt. Rooms), the
headquarters of the worsted manufacture, is a bustling town with nearly
200,000 inhabitants. A statue of the Hon. W.E. Forster (d. 1886) was
erected here in May, 1890. — 17V« M. Halifax (White Swan; Old Cock;
Bail. Rfmt. Rooms), with 75,000 inhab., is another important centre of
the woollen cloth and cotton industry. — From Halifax the line goes on
to Rochdale, Bolton, etc. (eomp. pp. 339, 340).
From Leeds to Selby, 21 M., railway in 3/4-lV4 hr. (fares 2». 10<Z., 2s.
id., is. 8i/zd.)- 93/4 M. Micklefleld.— Selby, see p. 405.
Fbom Leeds to York, 25'/2 M. , railway in 3/t-i hr. (fares 3«. 6<J., 2«.
l
lid., Is. l /zd.). This line diverges to the left from that to Selby at
Micklefield and runs towards the N.E. — 25 ] /2 M. York, see p. 406.
From Leeds to Harrogate, Ripon, and Thirsk, see R. 53.
The Scottish expresses of the Midland Railway generally pass to the
W. of Leeds without stopping.
Just beyond (199 M.) Kirkstall we have a view, to the right, of
Kirkstall Abbey (p. 403). 199 J /2 M. Kirkstall Forge with iron- ,

works. — Beyond Calverley diverges the line to Otley and Ilkley

(see p. 403). Beyond (203^2 M.) Apperley the train crosses the Aire
and passes through a long tunnel. At (207 M.) Shipley (Sun) we
cross the line from Bradford (see above) to Ilkley (p. 403). —
208 M. Saltaire, a woollen and worsted-making town, named from
its founder Sir Titus Salt (d. 1876) and the river Aire. The factory
of the Salt family (chiefly for alpaca) adjoins the line on the right.
213 M. Keighley (Devonshire Arms), pron. 'Keethley', a manu-
facturing town with 35,000 inhab., is the junction of a line to Oxen-
hope, which passes (4 M.) Haworth the home of the Bronte's.
,
—
222 M. Skipton (Midland; Devonshire Arms; Rfmt. Rooms),
Rail.
the capital of the picturesque Craven District, with 10,000 inhab.
and a late-Perp. church, is the junction of a line to Bolton Abbey
and Ilkley (see p. 403). Skipton Castle (14-1 6th cent.), behind the
church, was the seat of the Cliffords.
Near (229 M.) Bell Busk, where we leave the Aire, are *6or-
dale Scar, a huge wall of cliffs (300 ft.), and Malham Cove, a fine
rocky amphitheatre, nearly 285 ft. high. The ''Craven Fault' of ,

which Malham Cove is a part, is a curious dislocation of strata,

well known by name to geologists. —
From (232 M.) Hellifteld
a line runs to the S. to Clitheroe and Preston (p. 373).
Near (235 M.) Settle (Ashfleld's Lion) a line diverges on
;
 to Carlisle. APPLEBY. 49. Route. 405

theW. to Carnforth and Morecambe Bay (p. 374), affording direct

communication between the Midland Railway and the Lake District.
At (7'/« M.) Clapham, on the line to Carnforth, diverges a line run-
M
ning N.W. to (4V« -) fngleton, (12 M.) Kirkby Lonsdale, and (24 M.) Sed-
bergh, joining the main L.N.W. line at Lout QUI Junction (p. 374). —
Ingleton (Ingleborough Hotel; Wheatsheaf), near the S.W. base of Ingle-
borough (2375 ft. ; see helow) , is frequently visited for the sake of the
picturesque caves and waterfalls in the vicinity.
Beyond Settle the construction of the railway was attended with
great difficulty and necessitated numerous tunnels and viaducts.
Fine view down Bent Dale, to the left. We
ascend the valley of
the Ribble, with Ingleborough (see above) and Whernside (2415 ft.)
to the left and Pen-y-Ghent (2270 ft.) to the right. The country
now becomes very bleak. Beyond (247'/2 M.) Ribblehead we cross
Batty Moss by a viaduct, 1330 ft. long and at one point 165ft.
high, and then traverse a tunnel, l 1 /^ M. long, to the right of
Whernside (see above). After passing (257 M.) Hawes Junction,
the junction of a branch to Hawes and Northallerton (p. 410), we
reach the highest point of the line (1170 ft.). Soon after, we leave
the bleak Yorkshire fells and enter the green valley of the Eden,
in Westmorland. Before entering Birkett Tunnel (V4 M.) we see,
to the right, Pendragon Castle said to have been built by Pen-
,

dragon, father of King Arthur, and beyond it, on the same side, is
Lammas Castle. 267 M. Kirkby Stephen. —
278 M. Appleby (King's
Head), on the Eden. Appleby Castle, to the left, was rebuilt in
1686. — The blue hills of the Lake District now bound the view
on the W. —308 M. Carlisle, see p. 375.

50. From London to York, Durham, Newcastle, and

Berwick.
335V2M- Great Northern and North Eastern Railways in 7-9 hrs.
; to (188M .) York in 8»/«-4>/n hrs. (27s., 21s., 15s. 8c*.).
(47s., 37s. 8d., 28s. 2>/2<*.)
From London (King's Cross) to (138 M.) Retford, see R. 44c.
156 M. Doncaster (Angel; Reindeer; Rail. Rfrnt. Rooms), a prosper-
ous agricultural town on the Don, with 21,000 inhab., the works of
the G.N.R., and a handsome modern Dec. church by Sir G. G.
Scott, the tower of which is conspicuous to the right of the rail-
way. The name is widely known in racing circles from the fact
that the St. Leger (established in 1778) is run here in September.
Lines run from Doncaster to Sheffield, Manchester and Liverpool,
Wakefield and Leeds, Pontefract and York, Goole and Hull, and Gains-
borough and Lincoln. —
Conisborough Castle, 5 M. to the S.W., is described
in 'Ivanhoe'.
174V2 M. Selby (Londesborough Arms ; Rail. Rfrnt. Rooms), a
small agricultural town with 6000 inhab., on the Ouse, is the tra-
ditional birthplace of Henry I. Near the station is the Benedictine
*Abbey Church (p. xxxix), one of the finest monastic churches in
England, though lacking the S. transept and in need of restoration.
The church (306 ft. long) was originally erected in the 12th cent.,
406 Route 50. YORK. From London
and part of the nave and transepts is in the Norman style. The E. part
of the nave and the upper part of the W. front are E.E. ; the choir and
lady-chapel are Dec. ; and some of the windows Perp. Among the points
of special interest in the interior are the coloured ceiling of the nave;
the slender detached columns reaching from the arches to the roof on
the S. side of the nave; the tombs of the abbots in the lady chapel;
some curious figures in the N. transept; and the grand E. window.
The handsome Roman Catholic Church and the new Church of St.
James may also be visited.
From Selby
branch-lines run to Hull (a continuation of the line from
Leeds, p. 40i) and to Market Weighton (p. 424). The former line passes
(7 M.) Bowden (Bowman's), with the fine *Church of St. Cuthbert (E.E.,
Dec, & Perp.), formerly belonging to the bishops of Durham (comp. p. liv).
Near (185 M.) Nabum, York Minster appears on the right.
188 M. York. —
Hotels. "Station, a large and well-equipped house,
with a fine view of the city from the coffee-room, R. & A. is. 6d., table
d'hote B. 2s. dd., D. 5s. (rooms near the electric bell boards should be
avoided). Harker's York, in a central situation ; Black Swan, R. & A. 3s.
S!

Gd.; Scawin'sNorth Eastern Thomas's Clarence, plain.

; ; ; Rail. Rfmt. —
Rooms; table d'hote, served on arrival of the Scottish expresses, 2s. fid.
York, the Eboracum of the Romans, situated on the Ouse, is
now a quiet provincial town with 60,000 inhab. and few signs of
industry or recent growth. As at Chester the ancient walls are ,

still standing and enclose the greater part of the city. Many of the
streets are crooked and narrow and there are not a few quaint old
,

houses with overhanging upper stories. York is the seat of an

archbishop, who bears the title of Primate of England. His pro-
vince embraces the dioceses of Durham Chester Carlisle New-
, , ,

castle, Ripon, SodorandMan, Liverpool, Manchester, and Southwell.

York , originally the British Caer Evrauc comes into prominence
,

about the middle of the second cent, of the Christian era, as the Roman
Eboracum, the chief station in the province of Britain, the headquarters
of the 6th Legion, and the frequent residence of the emperors. Severus
died and was buried at York in 311, and Constantine the Great was
proclaimed emperor here in 306. t York retained its importance in the
Saxon period, and was the centre from which Christianity spread through
northern England. It also became an important Danish colony. William
the Conqueror built two castles here (see p. 409) ; and the name of York
is connected with many other monarchs and innumerable important
events in English history. The title of Duke of York is reserved for
members of the royal family; and the mayor of York shares with those
of London and Dublin the right of prefixing Lord to his official title.
The Railway Station though without architectural preten-
,

tion , is and the long curving vistas of the interior

very spacious ,

produce a good effect. To reach the town we proceed to the left,

passing Leeman's Statue and cross the Lendal Bridge (toll ^\%d.
,
•

view), just beyond which, to the right, is the Yorkshire Club. To

the the entrance to the Philosophical Society's Gardens
left is
(adm. by a member's introduction), which contain a Museum
Is., or
(Roman antiquities, etc.) and some interesting ruins.
To the right of the entrance are the remains of St. Leonard's Hospital,
originally founded in the Saxon era and rebuilt by King Stephen (1137).
Beyond it is the so-called Multangular Tower, the lower part of which is

j- The tradition that Constantine was born at York is unfounded.

 to Newcastle. YORK. 50. Route. 407
Roman. Nearer the N. side of the gardens are the picturesque ruins of
*St.Mary's Abbey, which are mainly of early-Dec. date, with some Nor-
man features. —
To the E. of the Gardens (entr. from St. Leonard's Place)
is the picturesque ivy-clad Manor House built by Henry VIII.,
, now a
School for the Blind (concert on Thurs., at 2.30p.m. ; adm. 6<Z.).
Following the street in a straight direction we soon reach —
*York Minster, one of the largest and grandest cathedrals in
England (525 ft. long, 100 ft. high, 110 ft. wide across the nave,
222 ft. across the transepts). The earliest church on this site was
a small wooden one, hastily built for the baptism of King Edwin by
Panlinus (627), the first Archbishop of YoTk, and soon replaced by
a stone basilica which was burned down in the 8th century.
, A
third church was burned down in 1069 by William the Conqueror,
and a fourth was built in its place by the first Norman bishop. The
choir was rebuilt by Archbishop Roger (1154-81); the S. transept
by Archbishop Gray in 1215-55, and the N. transept about the same
time while the Norman nave was gradually replaced by the present
;

one between 1290 and 1345. The Lady Chapel and presbytery were
added in 1360-73, and the present choir was substituted for Archbp.
Roger's before 1400. The towers date from the 15th cent., and
the edifice as thus rebuilt was reconsecrated in 1472. In its
present form, therefore, the part of the minster above ground
shows examples of the E. E., Dec, and early and late Perp. styles.
The most striking features of the exterior are the noble * W.
Facade (Dec.; towers, 201ft. high, Perp.), the E.E. Transepts,
the imposing Central Tower (216 ft. ;Perp.), the external triforium
ofthePres&j/ferj/, the Chapter House (Dec), with its flying buttresses,
and the great E. Window (Perp.). The numerous fantastic gargoyles
are also conspicuous. The best general view is obtained from the
city-walls (see p. 409). The daily services are at 10 a. m. and
4.30 p. m. Adm. to the choir, chapter-house, and crypt 6d.; to
see the bell, 'Big Peter', 6d. "We enter by the door in the S. tran-
sept (fine view across transepts).
Interior. The "Nave, according to Rickman, is the finest example
of the Dec. style in England, from the grandeur and perspicuity of its
design 'ornament is nowhere spared , yet there is a simplicity .which is
-,

peculiarly pleasing'. The triforium does not form a distinct division, but
appears part of the clerestory design. The roof is of timber, restored
after a fire in 1840, and painted to resemble stone. In original stained
glass York Minster excels all other English cathedrals , and this adds
greatly to the richness of the interior. The oldest is the 'Jesse Window' in
the clerestory of the N. side (2nd from the W. end) , dating from about
1200 ; that of the beautiful W. "Window, with its graceful flowing tracery,
is also very fine (1338). The aisles are unusually wide (30 ft.).
The Transepts, in a pure E.E. style, with clustered piera and pointed
arcades, are the oldest part of the existing structure (see above). The five
beautiful lancet-windows (50 ft. high) in the N. transept are known as the
'Five Sisters' and still retain their original glazing. In this transept are
the monuments of Abp. Greenfield (1306-15) and Thomas Haxey (d. 1824;
with a cadaver). In the S. transept is a good marigold window, filled
with poor modern glass. The monument of Abp. Qrey (1215-55), in its E.
aisle, is considered the best in the cathedral. The piers supporting the
Central Tower have a Norman core.
408 Route 50. YORK. From London

The majestic -Choik (Perp.) is separated from the nave hy an elaborate

Rood Screen (15th cent.) with rich tabernacle-work and statues of Eng-
,

lish kings. The general architectural arrangements of the choir resemble

those of the nave; the E. part, including the Presbyter!/ and the Lady
Chapel, is the earliest. The so-called E. Transept does not project beyond
the walls of the choir-aisles, but is indicated by a bay on each side running
up to the roof without the interposition of a triforium or clerestory. The
choir was set on fire by a madman in 1829, and the timber vaulting of
the roof and the stalls were destroyed (since restored). The altar-screen
is also a reproduction of the old one. The great "E. Window, which is
second in size (78 ft. x 33 ft.) to that at Gloucester alone (see p. 172),
retains its original fine glazing. The glass in the clerestory and in the E.
transepts is also old. The shrine of St. William of York, a 12th cent,
saint, whose renown for sanctity brought great wealth to the cathedral,
is supposed to have been in front of the present reredos. The mili-
tary and other modern monuments in the choir are somewhat incongruous.
Among the older ones are those of William of Hatfield (d. 1344), second
son of Edward III. (N. aisle); Abp. Savage (1501-7; N. aisle); Abp. Scrope
(beheaded in 1405; presbytery); Abp. Bowel (1407-23; presbytery).
From the E. aisle of the N. transept we enter the vestibule of the
chapter-house, noticing near the door the Latin inscription: 'Ut rosa flos
florum, Sic est domus ista domorum'. This motto scarcely exaggerates the
merits of the 'Chaptek House (Dec), which is generally considered the
most beautiful in England. It is octagonal in form, and has no central pillar.
Each bay is occupied by a large and handsome window, with geometrical
tracery. The grotesque and other carvings below are also excellent.
The Crypt, entered from the choir-aisle, is of late-Norman date (12th
cent.), though containing some earlier work, including a piece of herring-
bone masonry, which may go back to theSaxon era (comp. pp. 406, xxxiv).
To the S. of the choir are the Record Room, Vestry (with the 'Horn
of TJlphus' and other interesting relics) , and Treasury. There are no
cloisters; and in spite of the name minster, the church was never attached
to a monastic establishment. — To the N. of the Minster are the Deanery
and the Cathedral Library, with some valuable printed books and MSS.
The latter is supposed to have been the chapel of the old Archiepiscopal
Palace. The present palace is at Bishopthorpe, 2 3/4 M. to the S. of York.
In front of the W. end of the Minster is the Roman Catholic Church
of St. Wilfrid, a tasteful French Gothic edifice, which, however,
does not show to advantage in such close proximity to the Minster.
Just to the E. of the cathedral is a Perp. gateway leading to St. Wil-
liam's College, a Jacobean block of buildings now divided into small
houses. From the "W. end of the Minster the Bootham leads N.W. to
the Fine. Art Industrial Institution, which contains a collection of
ancient and modern paintings and of natural history objects (adm.
6d.). — A visit may also be paid to the Guildhall, an interesting
Perp. building (15th cent.) on the river, approached by an archway
through the Mansion House, in Coney St. The windows are filled
with modern stained glass of scenes from the history of York.
Of the other churches in York the most interesting are All
Saints', North St., with fine old stained glass; St. Martin-cum-
Cregory, Micklegate; St. Mary the Younger, Bishophill, with a
Saxon tower; St. Mary, Castlegate, with a Perp. tower; St. Mar-
garet's, "Walmgate, with a rich Norman doorway St. Crux, Pave-
;

ment (partly dismantled), with a fine panelled wooden door (Perp.) ;

St. Helen's, Stonegate; and St. Martin's, Coney St. (late-Perp.).

Perhaps the first thing a visitor should do at York is to make a
 to Berwick. THIRSK. 50. Route. 409
circuit (23/4 M.) of the City Walls, which were built about the
middle of the 14th century, partly on the line of the Roman walls.
Beginning at the steps by the arch near the Leeman statue (p. 406),
we ascend to the top of the wall , turn to the right (S.), pass round the
S.W. corner, cross (5 min.) the railway, and soon reach (3 min.) Mickle-
gale Bar, one of the six gateways. Beyond the Bar we have a good view
of St. Mary's (see p. 408) and, farther on, of the Minster. In 7 min. more
we pass the Baite Hill, or Norman Mound, the site of William the Con-
queror's second castle, and cross the Otise by an iron bridge (Yff.). To
the left, beyond the river, is the Castle, now used as a prison ; the oldest
part is Clifford's Tower (13th cent.), which occupies the site of William
the Conqueror's original keep (see p. 406). It was here that the infamous
massacre of 500 Jews took place in the reign of Richard I. (1189-99). —
We cross the canal and regain the wall at (5 min.) Fishergate. 7 min.
Walmgate, with a barbican, or outwork, and portcullis. At the (3 min.)
Red Totter the wall again disappears, and we follow the river to (5 min.)
Laperlhorpe Bridge, where it begins again. 8 min. Mont Bar, with a port-
cullis. Beyond this point we have to leave the top of the wall and
follow the Lord Mayor's Walk at its base to (8 min.) Bootham Bar. This
is close to the Minster and within 5 min. of Lendal Bridge (p. 406).
From York to Harrogate, 20 M., N.E. Railway in '/4-I fir. (fares 2*.
—
10<*., 2*. id., is. 8'/2 <J.). About V* M. to the left of (6 M.) Marston is the
field of Marston Moor, the scene of Cromwell's victory over the Royalists
in 1644. — 9 M. Kirkhammerton, with a church partly of Saxon date. —
16 l/s M. Knaresborough [Elephant), a small town with 5000 inhab., finely
situated on the Nidd, which here runs through a deep ravine. The ruins
of the ancient Castle (14th cent.) are of no great importance (adm.
6d.), but command a fine view. The Church contains some interesting
monuments. The other attractions of Knaresborough comprise a Drop-
ping Well (adm. 6<J.), with petrifying properties, and St. Roberts Chapel
(adm. 6d.), a cave in the limestone rock, with a rudely-carved figure of
an armed man. About 1 M. down the river is St. Robert's Cave, where Eu-
gene Aram concealed the body of his victim. — 20 M. Harrogate, see p. 422.
From York to Whitby and Scarborough, see R. 52; to Beverley and
Hull, see R. 54.
To the right of the railway, 4 M. from York, lies Skelton, with an
interesting E. E. church (p. xlv). From (204 M.) Pilmoor branch-
lines diverge to Malton (p. 419) and Knaresborough (see above).
The Malton line passes (5 M.) Coxaold, with the ruins of Byland Abbey,
4 M. to the S. of Rievaulx Abbey (see below), and (9V2 M.) Qilling, whence
a branch diverges to (18 M.) Pickering (p. 419) via (6'/s M.) Helmsley (Black
Swan), with an interesting castle, the station for (2'/2 M. ; or through Bun-
combe Park, 3'/2 M.) "Rievaulx or Rivers Abbey, a Cistercian foundation
of 1131. The picturesque ruins (adm. 1*.), in the Norman and E. E. styles,
consist chiefly of the choir and transepts of the church (which lay nearly
N. and S.), the gatehouse, and the refectory. Beautiful 'View from the
terrace above, embracing the pretty valley of the Rye. Hence a road
leads via (5 M.) Whilslone Cliff ('View; Hambleton Hotel) to (11 M.) Thirsk.
— The Knaresborough line passes (5'/2 M.) Borovghbridge '/2 M. to the
,

S. of which is Aldborough, on the site of the Roman city of Isurivm,

with a museum and numerous highly interesting remains.
21072 M. Thirsk (Fleece; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), a small country-
town with 6300 inhab. and a good Perp. church is the junction
,

of a branch to Harrogate and Leeds (see R. 63). The Hambleton

Hills, with their fine cliffs, are 5?M. to the W.
218 M. Northallerton (Oolden Lion), a busy railway-centre
(4000 inhab.), 3 M. to the S. of the scene of the Battle of the
Standard (1138).
From Northallerton to Stockton and Hartlepool,' 32 M., N. E.
 410 Route 50. WENSLEYDALE. From London
Railway in I'/i-l'A hr. (fares is. 3d., 3s. Id., 7s. V/id.). —
Picton is 10 M
the junc , on of a branch to Whitby (p. 420).
Rooms)
-
14 M.' Eaglescliffe (Rail. Rfmt
is the junction of lines from Darlington
(see below) and to (6 M )
M.ddlesborough (Queefs; Talbot; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms),
the capital of tie
(Cleveland iron district and the seat of a R. C. bishop
with
on the estuary of the Tees, tine harbour of refuge.- 17 M 75,000inhab
Stockton on'
-29M.
1% Mwt twuZw7' V^
m
,'
WestHartIepool(iJoyai./j
! I
iV D
i
r B/mt.
Seap0rt with 41 '°°° inhabitant":
/
Rooms), a modern seaport on
Tees Bay with 12,000 inhab., and a large trade in
Hartlepool (Railway ; King's Head), another seaport
coal. 32 East - M
(18,000 inhab.), 'of an-
cient origin but modern prosperity. '

R Noe ha " er ton to Leyburn and Hawes, 34 M., railway in 1V2 -

i-,,
1V«
l
hr. °ft
(fares J
,4s. 6d 3s. 9d., 2s. iOd.).
This line traverses Wensleyda/e, «
the upper valley of the Ure a picturesque district,
to the pedestrian. - especially attractive
8 M. Bedale (Black Swan), with I Dec. and Pern
church containing some line monuments, at the entrance
to Wenslev-
dale, is also near the Roman Road running up Swaledale.
Bomby Castle
o M. to the NW
the seat of the Duke of Leeds, contains some
pictures. —
11 M. Jervaulx (pron. Jarvis), about 3i/ M.
2 to the
good
N.E of
Jervaulx Abbey, built by Cistercians in 1156. 18 M. leyburn -
Arms; Golden Lion), one of the best headquarters for excursions (Bolton
in Wens-
leydale. Fine 'View from the Shawl, a rocky ridge 1/2 M.
to the W. of
the town Mtddleham (White Swan), 2 M. to the S.E., contains
.
several
racing-stables and the massive ruins of an old castle
(key in the village)
which belonged to Warwick, the King-Maker, and was frequently
visited
by Richard III. Thence the excursion may be continued to
(6 M. from
Leyburn) Jervaulx Abbey (see above), (IOV2 M.) Masham
(p. 424) (13 M 1
Backfall Woods (p. 424), and (21 M.)' RipJn* (p.'m). Excursions may
afso
be made from Leyburn to (51/2 M.) Bolton Castle and (81/2 M.)
Aysgarth
Force (see below); to (9 M.) Richmond (see below), etc.
with an interesting church (E.E. and Perp.). To the right
lW 2 M. Wensley -
of the line lies
the picturesquely situated village of Preston Scar. —
About 1 M. to the
K;Tv oi
J' 2 ^°
Redmre i3 'Bolton Castle (14th cent.), the stronghold
o,t the Scrape family, and the prison of Mary Stuart in 1568-9.
The
castle-chapel is used as a village church. —
25 M. Aysgarth (Miner's
Arms), with a church, rebuilt in 1866, containing a fine rood-screen
from
Jervaulx Abbey. 'Aysgarth Force, a fall on the Ure, 1/2 M.
below the
^" d l e '^ S 0n^ °J- J he chlef lions of Wensleydale. A road runs hence to
through Btshopdale to Buckden and (15 M.) Kettlewell, at the
™J: W ch may also be reaclled through Waldendale. head
—
£0 »T"! '
, From
(29 M.) Askrigg (King s Arms), a small town once noted for
clock-making,
excursions may be made to (1/2 M.) Mill Gill Force, M.) Whitfield&k
S,LZ ce and & M ° Seamer Water, a lake 100 acres
d4 M. Hawes (White Bart) is a good centre for excursions
in area, etc. -
to (IV2 M.)
Bat-draw Force, (7 M.) Muker in Swaledale, etc.
,

line goes on to join the Midland Railway at (6 M.) Bawes

—
Beyond Hawes the
Junction (p. 405).
From Northallerton to Leeds, see R. 53.
From (227 M.) Dalton a branch runs to (10 M.) Eichmond
(King's Head), picturesquely situated on the Swale, with 5400
inhab., a good centre for excursions in Swaledale. * Richmond Castle,
with its grand Norman keep on a lofty crag sheer above the river,
formerly belonged to the Dukes of Brittany. The handsome parish-
church has been practically rebuilt.
Among the most attractive short walks from Richmond are those to
Easby Abbey (I1/4 M. to the E., on the N. bank of the Swale), to the Race
Course (845 ft.; 'View), to St. Martin's Priory, on the S. bank of the
Swale
(1 M.), and to Aske Ball (Earl of Zetland; 2 M. to the N.).
229 1/2 M. Croft Spa (Spa Hotel), with a mineral spring.
233 M. Darlington (King's Head; Fleece; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms),
a busy town with 35,000 inhab., is an important seat of the man-
 1

to Berwick. DURHAM. 50. Route. 41

ufacture of woollens and carpets. Its name is intimately assoc-

iated with the birth of the railway-system in Great Britain. The
'Stockton and Darlington Railway', opened in 1825, was the first
passenger-line in the country ; and it was started mainly through
the enterprise of Mr. Edward Pease a member of a well-known
,

Quaker family of Darlington. The firet locomotive used on the lino

is set up as a memorial near the North Road Station. The Church
of St. Cuthbert is a very handsome edifice, restored by Scott.
From Darlington a branch-line runs to (15V2 M.) Barnard Castle (King's
Head ; Raby), with a picturesque ruined Cattle (adm. Id .), on a crag over-
looking the Tees, and the handsome Bowes Museum; (21ty2 M.) Bowes (['ni-
corn), with the reputed original of Dotheboys Ball, and 5 M. to the W. of
Rokeby; (38'/2 M.) Kirkby Stephen, .junction of a line to Appleby and Penrith
(p. 374) ; and (50'/2 M.) Tebay (p. 374). This railway, which is carried over
the Slainmoor Fells, opens up some fine scenery and at one point reaches
a height of 1378 ft. above the sea.
Barnard Castle is the junction of the Tees Valley Line to (8'/« M.)
Middleton-in-Teesdale, 5'/2 M. beyond which (coach) is High Force (Hotel),
one of the highest (60ft.) and finest waterfalls in England. Coaches also
ply from Barnard Castle direct to High Force (I6V2 M.), passing through
the most beautiful part of the Tees Valley.
Branch-lines also run from Darlington to Bishop Auckland (p. 414),
Mddletborough (see p. 410), and Stockton (see p. 410).
256 M. Durham. — Hotels. 'Thkee Tuns, New Elvet, an old-fash-
—
ioned but comfortable house, R. & A. is. ; "Codnty, Old Elvet, first-class.
Rose & Crown; Waterloo, unpretending. — Sail. Rfrnt. Rooms.
Durham, the county-town of the shire of that name, and the see
of a bishop (representing the old bishops of Lindisfarne, p. 417),
is an ancient town with 15,000 inhab.. finely situated on the Wear.
The older and more important part of the town, including the ca-
thedral and castle , occupies an elevated tongue of land almost
entirely surrounded by a horseshoe loop of the river, but the more
modern quarters lie on the flatter banks to the E. and W.
Durham may very likely have been originally a British station;
but little is known of its history until 995, when the relics of St. Cuthbert
were brought hither by Bishop Ealdhun, who also removed his see from
Chester-le-8treet to Durham (comp. pp. 414, 417). Walcher, the first bishop
after the Conquest, was created Earl of Northumberland; and he and his
successors for the next four centuries exercised an almost entirely inde-
pendent sway over the Palatinate of Durham. 'The Prelate of Durham
became one, and the more important, of the only two English prelates
whose worldly franchises invested them with some faint shadow of the
sovereign powers enjoyed by the princely churchmen of the Empire. The
Bishop of Ely in his island, the Bishop of Durham in his hill-fortress,
possessed powers which no other English ecclesiastic was allowed to
share (Freeman). At a later period Durham suffered severely from the
1

inroads of the Scottish borderers.

The way to reach the cathedral from the hotels is
pleasantest
to follow the New
Elvet and Church St. to (5 min.) St. Oswald's
Church, cross the churchyard to the right of the church, and follow
the pretty wooded walk called the 'Banks' to (8 min.) the Prebend's
Bridge. After crossing the bridge we turn to the left, pass below
the W. front of the cathedral, and then ascend to the right.
Durham Cathedral, dedicated to St. Andrew, and locally
known as the Abbey, is one of the most important and most grandly
412 Route 50. DURHAM. From London

situated of English cathedrals. The general effect, however,

has
been impaired by the chipping away of the stone during "Wyatt's
restoration (see below). The distant -views are the best. The
cathe-
dral is 510 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, 170 ft. across the transepts,
and
70 ft. The Central Tower, the top of which commands a most
high.
extensive view, is 214 ft. high; the W. Towers, 138 ft.
When the monks of Lindisfarne, attracted probably by its capability of
defence, fixed upon Durham as a resting-place for St. Cuthbert's
remains
(see above) they built a church here for the reception of the relics and
,

this edificewas consecrated in 999. To replace this, Bishop William 'of 81

Calais, the second bishop after the Norman Conquest, began a new and
larger church, and seems to have completed the Choir
(1093-95). The
Transepts, Nave, and Chapter House, also in the Norman style,
were all
finished by 1143; the Transitional Lady Chapel by 1195; the B
Transept
or 'Nine Altars^ (E.E.), replacing the Norman apse, by 1230. The Cloisters
Library, and the upper part of the Central Tower are Perp. (1400-80)
destructive restoration was carried out by Wyalt (comp.
A
pp. 99 178) in
1778-1800 sweeping away many ancient details and spoiling the
, ,
'exterior
by scraping. Recently the entire building has been restored by Scott
"Interior. We
enter the Cathedral by the N. Portal, consisting
of
five recessed arches in the late-Norman style, surmounted by
incongruous
(modern) pinnacles. To the door is affixed an ancient grotesque knocker,
which was sounded by malefactors seeking sanctuary at the shrine of St
Cuthbert. The nave is open throughout the day, but application must
he made to the verger for admission to the choir, Galilee, etc. On enter-
ing the "Nave, we at once realise the strength of the claim that is made
for
Durham as the grandest Norman building in the country (comp. p. xxxvm).
The effect produced is one of great solemnity; Dr. Johnson describes it
as making on him an impression of 'rocky solidity and indeterminate
duration'. The full length of the building is seen in an unbroken view. The
arches of the nave are borne alternately by massive circular piers, adorned
with deep incised lines forming zigzag and lattice-work patterns, and by
square piers, with subordinate shafts. The vaulting seems to be late-Nor-
man work. The various portals should also be noticed. On the pavement,
between the second pair of piers (beginning from the W. end), is a blue
marble cross, marking the limit beyond which women were not allowed
to pass. Among the few monuments in the nave the most interesting are
those of the Nevilles, now in a very dilapidated condition, on the S. side,
near the E. end. —
The W. Doorway of the nave, formerly the main
entrance to the Cathedral, now leads to the "Galilee t or Ladt Chapel,
a fine example of Transition Norman (ca. 1175), with later alterations, in-
cluding the windows. Its efTect, as has often been said, is almost Sara-
cenic (comp. p. xxxix). To the S. of the main entrance are traces of the
Shrine of the Venerable Bede (d. 735), whose remains are believed to lie
below the slab in front, with the inscription: 'Hac sunt in fossa Beedse
venerabilis ossa'. On the other side was an altar to 'Our Lady of Pity', in
a recess adorned with frescoes, which still remains. Bishop Langley (1406-37)
blocked up the main door and erected an Altar to the Blessed Virgin in
front of it, below which is his own tomb.
The Great Teansepts were erected shortly before the nave, which
they resemble; the large windows are of later insertion. The E. aisles were
each occupied by three altars. In the S. arm is a Statue of Bp. Barrington
(d. 1826), by Chantrey. —
The Central Tower is borne by four huge clus-
tered piers ; round the interior of the lantern runs an open parapet resting on
grotesque corbels. The staircase to the top is reached from the S. Transept.
The "Choir is separated from the nave by a screen designed by Scott.
In general aspect it is like the nave, though there are numerous variations
in detail, such as the spiral grooves round the circular piers and
the

+ So called from an allusion to 'Galilee of the Gentiles', as being less

sacred than the rest of the church; comp. pp. 428, 440.
 to Berwick. DURHAM. 50. Route. 413
disposition of the clerestory. The vaulting dates from about 1300. The
Altar Screen was erected in 1380, and the Stalls in 1660-72. The "Episco-
pal Throne was erected by Bishop Hatfield (1345-81), to serve also as a
tomb for himself. Behind the reredos is the Feretory of St. Cuthbert, on
which his shrine stood. His remains still lie below it. The Norman choir
originally ended in an apse, the place of which has been taken by the so-
called 'Nine Altaks', orE. Tbansept, a graceful erection of about 1230-80,
showing the transition from E.E. to geometrical Decorated. The way in
which this elaborate Gothic work is united with the massive Norman of
the choir is marked by great constructive ingenuity and artistic sense.
The nine altars were Tanged along the E. wall. The arcade beneath the
windows, and indeed all the details, deserve careful inspection. The poor
tracery and glass of the rose-window are modern. At the N. end is a
Statue of Bishop Mildert (d. 1831), by Gibson. The modern sculpture of a
cow, on the outside (N.) of this transept, commemorates the legend that
the monks of Lindisfarne were led to the site of the cathedral by a dun cow.
The Chapter House, which was undoubtedly the finest Norman room
(113540) of the kind in England, was destroyed by Wyatt (p. 412). The
present chamber, reached from the end of the S. transept , occupies the
W. part of the old one and incorporates some of its details. — Through
the "Prior's Door (late-Norman) at the E. end of the S. aisle of the nave,
we enter the Cloisters, which were begun in 1368 and finished in 1498.
The window-tracery was renewed last century. The N. walk still retains
its 'carrels'', or study-recesses. In the centre of the cloister-garth is the
Monks' Lavatory.
The Domestic Buildings of the Benedictine Monastery still remain
in excellent order. To the S.E. of the cloisters is the Priory (now the
Deanery). On the W. the cloisters are adjoined by the Dormitory (ca.
1400), now the New Library, a magnificent room, almost in its original
condition. To the S. of the cloisters is the Refectory, now known as the
Old Library, which contains several valuable MSS. and the interesting
relics found in the coffin of St. Cuthbert (p. 411) in 1827. The early-
Norman Crypt below this room is older than any part of the Cathedral
itself. The Monies' Kitchen, adjoining the S.E. corner of the Dormitory,
is a fine octagonal structure of the 14th century. The Great Gateway,
on the E. side of the Abbey Yard, dates from about 1500.
To the N. of the Cathedral, on the other side of the Palace
Green and on the neck of the peninsula, rises the Castle (adm. Is.),
originally erected by William the Conqueror in 1072, rebuilt by
Bishop Hugh of Puiset about a century later, and subsequently
added to and altered. It was long the seat of the bishops , and is
now occupied by Durham University, established in 1833.
The most interesting part of the interior is the Norman work of Hugh
of Puiset, including a fine arcade and a "Doorway resembling the Prior's
Door in the Cathedral (see above). These are now seen in a gallery built
in front of Hugh's work in the 16th century. Visitors should also ask to
see the ' Norman Gallery' on the upper floor, close to the students'
dormitory. On the ground-floor of the Keep (14th cent.), the top of which
commands a fine view, is the Norman Chapel'. The Dining Sail (14th
'

cent.) and the Black Staircase of carved oak (17th cent.) are also noticeable.
Most of the other buildings round Palace Green also belong to the
University. On the W. side are the Exchequer and Bishop Cosin's Library.
— Besides University College, with its seat in the Castle, the University
comprises Hatfield Hall, in the North Bailey.
In the South Bailey, near the Cathedral, is the curious little
church of St. Mary the Less (12th cent.) , lately almost entirely
rebuilt. Following the same street towards the S., we reach the
Water Gate and a fragment of the old City Wall. —
In the Market
Place, to the N. of the Castle, are the Town Hall, the modern
 ;

414 Route 50. BISHOP AUCKLAND. From London

Church of St. Nicholas, and a Statue of the Marquis of Londonderry.

From this point Silver St. leads to the S. to Framwellgate Bridge
(rebuilt in the loth cent.), which affords a fine view of the
Cathedral and Castle. Beyond the bridge are King Street and
North Eoad, ascending to the station. In the latter, to the left,
1
is the Durham Miners Hall, with a statue of the late Alex. Macdon-
ald, Esq., M.P., the miners' representative in Parliament.
Environs. A pleasant short excursion may be made to Finchale Priory,
3 l /t M. to the N. Starting from the market-place, we cros9 the Fram-
wellgate Bridge and follow the Framwellgate to the right. At the 0/4 M.)
end of this street we bend to the right and take the road along or near
the river, which soon becomes a green lane and finally a field-path.
After about V2 M. we see to the right, on the other side of the river,
the red -tiled Kepier Hospital (12th cent.), with its picturesque gateway.
After 1 /t M. more we turn to the left, ascending towards a farm, which
we leave to our left, passing through a wicket-gate. We
then cross a
(7 !/2 min.) stile into a lane, leading to (7 min.) a row of cottages, just
beyond which we cross the railway, at the Brasside Brick & Tilt Works.
We then follow the road, which bends to the left, to the (V2 M.) cross-
roads, where a sign-post indicates the way to (1 M.) 'Finchale Priory.
The ruins are charmingly situated on the bank of the Wear and are in the
Dec. style (13th cent.). — We may return to Durham either by train from
Leamside, which is 1 M. to the E. of the priory, or by the high-road
(iP/z M. from the above-mentioned cross-roads). In the latter case a
slight detour may be made to include Neville's Cross ( 3/4 M. to the S.W.
of Durham), erected by Lord Neville to commemorate his defeat and
capture of David II. of Scotland in 1346.
In the opposite direction (4>/2 M. to the S.W.) lies Brancepeth Castle,
the ancient seat of the Nevilles. Adjacent is the curious old Church of
St. Brandon. The direct road passes Neville's Cross (see above). —
To the
S. lie the Maiden Castle (a Roman or Saxon earthwork), Mountjoy (where
the monks of Lindisfarne first halted), the manor-house of Houghall,
visited by Oliver Cromwell, and the (3 M.) Moated Grange of Butterby.
— Other points of interest are Sherburn Hospital (1181), 2'k M. to the E.
Ushaw Rom. Calh. College, 3'/2 M. to the W.; and Langley Hall. Longer
excursions may be made to Raby Castle (see below), Chester-le-Street, etc.
From Durham to Sunderland, 14 M., N.E. Railway in V2-I nr (fares -

2s., Is. Gd., Is. 3d.). — The first station is (4 M.) Leamside, near Finchale
Priory (see above). — 14 M. Sunderland (Queen's; Walton's; Empress; Rail.
Rfmt. Rooms), a busy seaport and outlet for a large coal-district, lies at the
mouth of the Wear and contains 120,000 inhabitants. Its iron ship-building
yards are important. Sunderland is also connected by railway with New-
castle, South Shields, Hartlepool, etc.
From Durham to Bishop Auokland, IOV2M., N.E. Railway in Va h r -

(fares Is. Id., U. id., lid.). — 41/2 M. Brancepeth, see above. —

IOV2 M.
Bishop Auckland (Talbot; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), an ancient town on the Wear,
with 12,000 inhab., has its name from Auckland Castle, the large palace
of the Bishops of Durham, with an extensive park (open). The stained-
glass windows of the bishop's chapel contain portraits of Bishop Westcott,
Abp. Benson, etc. —Raby Castle, 7 M. to the S.W., a fine building of the
14th cent., once belonged to the Nevilles and now to the Duke of Cleve-
land. — About I1/2 M. to the N.W. of Bishop's Auckland is the interest-
ing church of Escomb (see p. xxxv).
Soon after leaving Durham we reach (262 M.) Chester-le-Street
(Lambton Arms), an ancient town (6650 inhab.), probably on the
site of the Roman Condercum. After the flight from Lindisfarne
(see pp. 417, 411), Chester-le-Street was the seat of the bishop
of Bernicia for upwards of a century (883-995). About 3/4 M. to
 to Berwick. NEWCASTLE. 50. Route. 415

the E. is Lumley Castle the seat of the Earl of Scarborough.

,
—
Near (263 1 /2 M.) Lamesley is Ravensworth Castle, a fine baronial
mansion belonging to the Earl of Ravensworth.
267!/2 M. Oateshead is a large and uninteresting manufacturing
town (70,000 inhab.), on the S. bant of the Tyne, practically
forming part of Newcastle. —
We now cross the river by the High
Level Bridge (see below) and reach Newcastle.
—
268Y2M. Newcastle. Hotels. Station Hotel; Central Exchange,
Grey St. ; Douglas, County, Grainger St. West; Tcrk's Head, 69 Grey St.
— Tcrf, R. &A. 3s. Gd.; Alexandra; Royal Exchange; Tyne Temper-
ance. — Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms.
Tramways run through the chief streets, to Oateshead (see above), Jes-
mond (p. 416), etc. — Cab from the station to the town 1*.; omn. 6<J.
TJ. S. Consul, Horace C. Pugh, Esq.
Newcastle -on- Tyne, a busy and somewhat dingy town, with
150,000 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Tyne, 9 M., from its
mouth, in an extensive coal-field, which has made it one of the
chief coal-exporting ports of Great Britain. It has also large ship-
building yards and manufactories of locomotives and iron goods.
Newcastle, which occupies the site of the Roman Pons jEM, was in
the Saxon period named Monk Chester, from the number- of its monastic
institutions. It was also visited by numerous pilgrims to the Holy Well
of Jesus Mount (Jesmond, see p. 416). The present name came into use
after the erection of the castle by Robert Curthose (see below). Since 1S82
Newcastle has been the see of a bishop.
On issuing from the Central Station we see in front of us, to
the left, St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral, a handsome modern
building. Weturn to the right, pass the Statue of George Ste-
phenson (d. 1848), and proceed through Collingwood St. At the
end of this street, to the left, are the Municipal Buildings. To
the right stands the Church of St. Nicholas (14th cent.), with a fine
lantern-tower (194 ft).
St. Nicholas was raised to cathedral rank in 1882 (daily services at
10 and 5). —
Among the monuments in the interior are those of a Cru-
sader (14th cent. ; in a small chapel off the S. aisle), Sir Matthew Ridley
(by Flaxman; N.W. pier at cross), and Admiral Collingwood (8.W. pier
at cross). The altar-piece is ascribed to Tintoretto. John Knox and George
Wishart were both for a time afternoon lecturers at this church. No. 27—
St. Nicholas Churchyard was the workshop of Thomas Bewick (tablet;
comp. p. 416).
On leaving the church we turn to the left and follow St.
Nicholas Buildings to the Black Gate, built in 1248, and originally
one of the gates in the wall surrounding the Castle the upper ;

story contains a collection of antiquities. The *Castle was founded

in the 11th cent, by Robert Curthose (p. 193), but the Keep, the
only part remaining, dates from 1172-77 (adm. 6d.).
The Keep is 85 ft. high (to the top of the turret 107 ft.), and its walls
are 12-18 ft. thick. We reach the interior by ascending an outside staircase.
The finest room is the Norman "Chapel, on the first floor; but the Great
Hall (in which Balliol swore fealty to Edward I.) and other chambers are
also interesting. The roof affords a good "View of Newcastle.
We may now cross the river by the *High Level Bridge (toll
1 /^dJ), a triumph of engineering skill, designed by Robert Stephen-
416 Route 50. NEWCASTLE. From London

son, of which Newcastle is justly proud. The upper level, 112 ft.
above high-water mark is used by the railway and from it is
, ,

hung the roadway. The bridge cost nearly 500,0002. On the top of
one end of the bridge is 'Stephenson's No. 1 Engine'.
Recrossing the Tyne by the Swing Bridge, just below the High
Level Bridge, we proceed through the Sandhill, in which, to the
right, stands the old Ouildhall, now used as a commercial exchange.
Above No. 41 (tablet), on the other side, is a window, marked by a
blue pane, through which Miss Surtees escaped in 1772, to elope with
her lover, John Scott Eldon, afterwards Lord Chancellor of England.
From the end of the Sandhill we ascend to the left, through
the Side the picturesqueness of which is being modernized out of
,

existence (No. 84, the birthplace of Adm. Collingwood in 1748),

and pass through Dean St. (to the right) to Grey Strbbt, one of
the chief thoroughfares of Newcastle. To the right is the Theatre
Royal, and to the left the Bank of England. At the top of the street
are the Central Exchange (containing an art-collection) and a
Monument to Earl Orey (d. 1845).
A tablet at No. 53 Grainger St., leading hence back to the station, com-
memorates visits of Garibaldi (1864), Kossuth (1856), and William Lloyd
Garrison (1876).
Crossing Blackett St., we now proceed by Northumberland St.
and Barras Bridge to the Q-fa M.) Museum, containing good cabinets
of birds and fossils of the coal-measures, and a complete collection
of the prints of the Northumbrian Bewick (d. 1828).
In Bath Eoad, diverging to the right from Northumberland St., is
the Medical School of Durham University. —
A road leading to the left at
the beginning of Barras Bridge contains the College of Science. At 33 Eldon
Place, the next opening on the left, George and Robert Stephenson lived
in 1824-25 (tablet).
In Eliwick Hall, in Elswick Park , 1 M. to the W. of the station, is
an interesting collection of models of works by Lough and Noble (cata-
logue 3d.).
Those whose time allows should go on through the Jesmond Eoad
(tramway, see p. 415) to (1 M.) "Jesmond Dene, a prettily wooded little
glen, now laid out as a public park. The remains of the Pilgrimage
Chapel (p. 415) stand on the edge of the valley. We may return across the
Town Moor. —
A visit may be paid (after previous application) to the Ord-
nance Works, Steel Works, and Shipbuilding Yard of Lord Armstrong, at
Elswick, 2 M. to the W. of Newcastle (rail, stat.) , which employ 16,000
workpeople. —
A Rowing Regatta on the Tyne should be seen if possible.
A steamboat - trip (fare 6d.) may be taken down the Tyne to Tyne-
mouth. In spite of the colour of the water, Tyne salmon have a great
reputation for delicacy of flavour. Among the stopping-places are Walls-
end, so-called from its position at the end of the Roman Wall (p. 376)
and famous for its coal; Javrow, with a few fragments of the monastery
of the Venerable Bede; North Shields; and South Shields (Royal; Golden
Lion; 57,000 inhab.), two important seaports. —
Tynemouth (Grand; Bath;
Royal) is frequented for sea-bathing (44,000 inhab.). The ruins of the
Priory are interesting. —
The return to Newcastle may be made by rail-
way. — We may also make an excursion up the river to Hexham (p. 418)
and Gilsland (p. 418).
From Newcastle to Carlisle, see E. 51. A railway also runs from New-
castle to Sunderland (p. 414).
At (276 M.) Killingworlh George Stephenson made his first loco-
motive (see above). —
285 M. Morpeth (Queen's Head; Black Bull),
 to Berwick. BERWICK-ON-TWEED. 50. Route. 417

a small town (4600 inhab.), with the scanty ruins of a Norman

castle and a curious clock-tower, is the junction for Reedsmouth,
Rothbury, and Blyth. Beyond this point the sea is generally visible
to the right. About I1/4M. to the right of (305 M.) Warkworth (Sun)
is * Warkworth Castle, an excellently-preserved feudal fortress
(12-14th cent.), near the mouth of the Coquet. Warkworth Her-
mitage figures in the Percy Eeliques. —
From (310 M.) Bilton
Junction a branch diverges , on the left, to Alnwick, Wooler, and
Coldstream (p. 456).
Alnwick (White Swan) is a town of 7500 inhab., on the Aim. "Aln-
wick Castle, the seat of the Duke of Northumberland, one of the finest
feudal piles in England, has been restored, and contains interesting paint-
ings and antiquities. The oldest part is the Norman gateway (12th cent.).
— At the mouth of the Alne, 1 M. from Bilton and 4 ] /2 M. from Alnwick,
is Alnmovth, a pleasant watering-place with golfing-links.
About 3 M. to the E. of (316 M.) Christon Bank are the ruins
of Dunstanburgh Castle. — 323 M. Lucker is the nearest station for
a visit to the Fame Isles (boat about 10s.).
The largest of these islands was St. Cuthbert's home for nine years.
The Long Stone Lighthouse, on the easternmost isle, was the scene of Grace
Darling's heroism in 1838. — On the mainland, opposite the Fame Isles
(2'/2 M. from Lucker), is Bamborough Castle, on the site of a Saxon
stronghold, which perhaps replaced a Roman station. The castle now
belongs to a charity, and contains a surgery, a dispensary, and schools.
Bamborough churchyard contains a memorial of Grace Darling. — About
6 M. to the S.W. of Lucker is Chillingham, the seat of Earl Tankerville;
the park contains a herd of wild white cattle like those at Hamilton (p. 480).
330 M. Beal is the station for Lindisfame, or Holy Island (Inns),
which is 1 '/2 M. from the mainland by boat at high -water, and may
also be reached on foot by crossing the sands at low water (S^M.).
Lindisfarne Abbey was originally founded in the 7th cent, by St.
Aidan. St. Cuthbert afterwards became Bishop of Lindisfarne and died
here in 687. In 883 the monks of Lindisfarne left the island, through
fear of the Danes, taking with them the relics of the saint, which found
a final resting-place at Durham (comp. pp. 411, 414). Visitors will re-
member the description of Lindisfarne in 'Marmion and the fate of the
nun Constance. The ruins belong to the Priory Church, which was erected
towards the close of the 11th cent., on the site of the ancient church and in
imitation of Durham Cathedral. The ruined Castle dates from about 1500.
333 J /2 M. Scremerston ; 335 M. Tweedmouth Junction (Union
Hotel) on the S. bank of the Tweed. The train then crosses the
,

Tweed by a fine viaduct, 720 yds. long and 126 ft. above the water.
335V2 M. Berwick-on-Tweed (King's Arms; Red Lion; Lyle's
Temperance; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), an old town with 14,000
inhab. ,at the mouth of the Tweed, was for ages a constant object
of contention between England and Scotland, while it is still
regarded as a neutral county , belonging officially to neither of
these countries. Parts of the old walls, with a tower and gateways,
still remain.
The suburb of Spittal (Roxburgh) is frequented for sea-bathing. —
The Tweed, like the Tyne (p. 416), is famous for its salmon, and about
150 tons of this fish are annually sent off to London and elsewhere.
From Berwick to Edinburgh, see R. 62 b. — Branch-lines also run from
Berwick to Jedburgh (p. 456), Kelso (p. 456), and Melrose (p. 457).
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 27
418

51. From Carlisle to Newcastle.

66 M. Railway in 2V4-2tyi hrs. (fares 8s. Id., 6s. 9<J., 5s.).
Carlisle, see p. 375. —
5 M. Wetheral, in the valley of the
Eden, with a ruined priory. Opposite (bridge 72^.; ferry Id.) is
Corby Hall , a modernized baronial mansion, containing a fine art-
collection. The beautiful walks in Corby Woods, praised by David
Hume, are open to visitors on Wed. —
1572 M. Naworth (Inn).
*Naworth Castle, the fine baronial residence of the Howards, about
!/2 M. to the N., most intimately associated with the name of 'Belted Will
Howard', Lord Warden of the Marches in the first half of the 17th cent.,
who is described in Scott's 'Lay of the Last Minstrel 1 The castle con-
.

tains ancient armour, tapestry, and portraits (visitors usually admitted,

10-1 or 2-5). —About 1 M. to the N. of Naworth Castle are the pictur-
esque ruins of Lanercost Priory, an Augustine foundation of the 12th cen-
tury. The nave of the priory-church has been restored, and is used as
the parish-church.
2OV2 M. Oilsland (Station Inn, plain), or Bosehill, is the station
for GilslandSpa (Sftaws Hotel, 'pens'. 4s. -8s. 6d. Orchard House,
;

between the village and the Spa), pleasantly situated i l /t M. to

the N. (omn. 6d.). Its sulphur - springs and the pretty scenery
attract visitors in search of a quiet watering-place. It was at Gils-
land Spa that Sir Walter Scott met his future wife , Mile. Char-
pentier, and he has immortalized the district in 'Guy Mannering'.
A cottage in the village is said to occupy the spot of the Mumps Ha',
in which Dandie Dinmont met Meg Merrilies. —In the wooded ''Valley
of the Irthing, in which the sulphur-well lies, are pointed out the 'Pop-
ping Stone', where Sir Walter Scott is said to have proposed to Miss
Charpentier, and the 'Kissing Bush', where he sealed the compact!
At Birdoswald, 2 M. to the S.W. of the Spa, are abundant remains of
a station on the Roman Wall, which ran across the "R. of England (see
p. 376). The walk may be extended to (2 M.) Coome Crags. The
archaeologist will also find much to interest him in following the line of the
Roman wall from this point eastwards to (17 M.) Ghollerford ("George).
— A four-horse coach plies frequently from the Shaws Hotel to Lanercost
Priory (6V2 M. ; see above), Naworth Castle (see above; 7'/2 M.), the North-
umberland Lakes (12 M.), the Roman station at Housesteads (13 M.), and various
other points in this interesting but comparatively unfrequented district.
26 M. Haltwhistle (Crown), a small town with 1500 inhab., is
the junction of aline to (13 M.) AMon (960 ft.), on the slopes of the
Pennine Hills, said to be the highest market-town in England. It
lies in an extensive lead-mining district.
Featherstonehaugh, Blenkinsop Tower, and Thirlwall Castle may be
visited from Haltwhistle.
31 M. Bardon Mill is the nearest station to the pretty little
Northumberland Lakes, S 1 /^ M. to the N.
35 M. Haydon Bridge lies 6 M. to the S. of Housesteads with ,

the most complete remains of the Roman Wall (comp. above & p. 376).
42 M. Hexham (Royal; Orey Bull; Tynedale Hydropathic), an
ancient town with 6000 inhab. and see of a R. C. bishop on the ,

S. bank of the Tyne, is chiefly of interest for its fine * Abbey Church,
an excellent example of E.E., dating from the 12th century.
The first church on this site was built by St. Wilfrid in 676, and
firm 680 to 821 Hexham was the seat of a bishopric, afterwards united
with Lindisfarne, and now included in the see of Durham (comp. p. 411).
 ;

SCARBOROUGH. 52. Route. 419

The nave of the present church was destroyed at the end of the 13th
cent., and the Saxon "Crypt of St. Wilfrid has heen discovered below its
site. The"Choir is separated from the Transept by a carved Rood Screen
of about 1500. The Shrine of Prior Richard and other monuments deserve
attention. —
The Refectory and a Norman Gateway are also preserved.
In 1464 the Yorkists defeated the Lancastrians in an important battle at
Hexham. —
Branch-lines run from Hexham to Allendale on the S. and to
Chollerford (see p. 418) and Reedsmouth (Riccarton, Eothbury, Morpeth) on
the N.
Near (45 M.) Corbridge are the ruins of Dilston Castle. The
train now
follows closely the course of the Tyne. To the left, at
(5272 M.) Prudhoe, are the ivy-clad ruins of its castle. At (55 M.)
Wylam George Stephenson was horn in 1781 , and here the first
working locomotive was constructed by William Hedley in 1812.
As we near Newcastle the signs of industry increase. 63 M. Scots-
wood, so named from the camp of the Scottish army in the Civil War.
66 M. Newcastle, see p. 415.

52. From York to Scarborough and Whitby.

North Eastern Railway to (42 M.) Scarborough in l-ljfehr. (fares 5s.
7d., 4s. 8d., 3«. 6d.); to (56 M.) Whitby in 2-27< hrs. (7s. 6d., 6s. 3d., 4s. 8<J.).
York, see p. 406. The first stations are unimportant. Near
(15 M.) Kirkham Abbey, with its ivy-clad ruins, we reach the
Derwent, the pretty, well-wooded valley of which we follow nearly
all the way to Scarborough. —About 3 M. to the N.W. of (16 M.)
Castle Howard (Hotel, %M. from the park) is Castle Howard, the
palatial seat of the Earl of Carlisle, containing a beautiful chapel
and a fine collection of paintings (Velazgjiez, Titian, Rubens,
Mabuse, Carracci, Reynolds, Clouet), sculptures, bronzes, tapestry,
and old glass and china. The house and the ''Park are open daily.
21 M. Malton (Talbot; Sun; Bail. Rfmt. Rooms), an ancient
town of 9000 inhab., with large racing-stables and an old priory,
is the junction of the direct line to Whitby (p. 420), which runs
via Pickering. Another line runs S. to Driffield (p. 425).
42 M. Scarborough. —Hotels. On the South Cliff: Grand, with
300 beds; Crown, Esplanade, above the Spa Grounds; Prince of Wales ;
Cambridge, near the Valley Bridge, at some distance from the sea, 'pens'.
9s.— On the North Cliff (less expensive) Queen Alexandra, 'pens'. 10s.
:

Albion, near the Castle. — ;

In the Town: Pavilion, adjoining the station,

R. & A. 3s. 6d., 'pens'. 10s. 6<Z.-12s. ; Royal, corner of St. Nicholas St.;
Victoria, 'pens'. 7s. 6<Z. ; Station small. —
Several of the hotels are
,

closed in winter, and the rates of the others are lowered. —

Private Hotels
(7-iOs.a day), Boarding Houses, and Lodgings abound.
Cab for 1-3 pers. Is. per mile, 2s. 6df. per hr. ; with two horses Is. 6d.
and 3s. 9d. ; double fares between 11.30 p.m. and 6 a.m.; for each package
carried outside 2d. —
Steamers ply during summer to Filey, Bridlington,
Whitby, etc. —
Boats for 1-3 pers. Is. 6d. per hr., each addit. pers. 6d.
Scarborough the most popular marine resort in the N. of Eng-
,

land, with a resident population of about 40,000, is finely situated,

in the form of an amphitheatre, on slopes rising from the sea and
terminated on the N. and S. by abrupt cliffs. The air is bracing and
the beaches are good for bathing, but the older streets are narrow
27*
420 Route 52. WHITBY.

and dirty , and the fashionable quarters dull and formal. In the
season Scarborough is very crowded.
The most prominent object is the lofty promontory (300 ft.),
rising above the harbour and surmounted by the -ruins of a Castle
(12th cent. fine view, extending on the S. to Flamborough Head).
;

Neai it is the old Church of St. Mary, consisting of the nave of an

original late-Norman and E.B. building, the ruins of which still
exist. The N. Cliff begins near the castle. New gardens and a
promenade, protected by a sea-wall, were opened on the N. Bay in
June, 1890. The Promenade Pier here is 1000 ft. long.
The old town of Scarborough is separated from the fashionable
quarters of the S. Cliff by the Ramsdale Valley, a deep ravine
laid out as a park and spanned by two bridges. The Cliff Bridge (toll
'/^d.), nearest the sea, is 414ft. long and leads to the Spa Gardens
(adm. 6d.), oocupying the side of the cliffs and containing two
mineral springs. The Spa Buildings, erected at a cost of 77,000 J.,
contain a theatre, a concert-hall, a fine-art gallery (adm. 6<J.), a
restaurant, etc. (band 11-1 and 7-9). Close to and partly below
the Cliff Bridge is the * Aquarium (adm. Is.). Adjacent is a Mu-
seum (adm. 3d.). The beaches, both of the N. and S. bays, are
connected with the top of the cliffs by inclined tramways.
At the back of the S. Cliff rises Oliver's Mt. (600 ft.), affording a good
view of Scarborough and its environs. We cross the Valley Bridge (above
the Cliff Bridge ; l/zd.), turn to the right, and follow the road bending round
to the right, which reaches the top circuitously in Vs hr. Or we may
cross the stile to the left and ascend straight to the top (steep) in •/« hr.
About 8 M. to the S. of Scarborough is the small sea-bathing
place Filey (Orescent; Crown), which may be reached by train. — The
railway is prolonged thence to (11 M.) Bridlington (Black Lion) and
Bridlington Quay (Alexandra; Britannia), another popular watering-place.
The ^Parish Church of Bridlington consists of the nave of a fine Augustine
priory-church founded early in the 12th cent. (E.E. to Perp.); fine W.
window. About 5 M. to the N. E. of Bridlington is Flamborough Head, a
bold promontory, with perpendicular cliffs, 450 ft. high. In summer a coach
plies between Scarborough and Bridlington (fares 5s., return 8s.; to Filey
3s. and 5s.). — Other favourite points are Everley, Hackness, Forge Valley,
Ayton, Wykeham, and Hayburn Wyke, to all of which public conveyances
ply daily in the season (fares Is. od.-3s.). A good cliff-walk may also
be taken to (15 3/4 M.) Robin Hood's Bay and (6 M.) Whitby (comp. below).
From Scarborough to Whitby, 22 M., N.E. Railway in 174 nr -

(fares 5s., 4s., 3s.). The line skirts the coast, affording views of
the sea to the right. 7 M. Hayburn Wyke a favourite point for
,

excursions from Scarborough; 10 M. Peak, near Peak Beacon,

600 ft. above the sea. —A little farther on we obtain a fine view
of *Kobin Hood's Bay, with its lofty cliffs, far below us to the
right. — 15V4 M. Robin Hood's Bay (Robin Hood's Bay Hotel;
King's Head). — We then reach the (22 M.) West Cliff Station
at Whitby ,
i
/2 M. from the Royal Hotel.
This is the terminus of
this line, but we may change carriages and take the short but cir-
cuitous branch-line (2 M.) to Whitby Town Station.
Whitby. —Hotels. "Rotai., West Cliff, with sea-view, R. & A. from
5s., 'pens'. U. 4s. to U. 10s. per week; Ckown, Flowergate; Angei, near
 WHITBY. 53. Route. 421
the Town Station, commercial; Railway Station Hotel, commercial,
B. & A. 2s. 9d. ; Jobling'b Temperance, opposite the station, unpretending.
Cab with one horse 1*. per mile, with two horses Is. 6d. ; for the first
V« hr. 1*., each addit. 1/4 hr. 6d., with two horses Is. 6<J. and 9d.
Boat i-2». per hr., according to size.
Whitby, a small town and watering-place, is situated on both
banks of the Esk the valley of which is here bordered by lofty
,

cliffs. As seen from either the E. or W. cliff, the town looks very
picturesque, with its crowd of red-tiled houses, clustering on both
sides of the river and climbing the sides of the cliff.
Whitby originated in a priory founded here by St. Hilda in the 7th
cent., and its development was aided in Elizabethan days by the dis-
covery of alum -mines in the neighbourhood. Ship - building was also
carried on here with great success for a time, and Capt. Cook, who was
a Whitby apprentice, made one of his voyages round the globe in a
Whitby vessel. His house in Church St. is still standing. At present the
main industries are the manufacture of Jet Ornaments and the Herring Fishery.
The river is crossed by a Swing Bridge, and is formed into a kind
of harbour by two Piers. On the W. Pier, which commands a good
view of the town and abbey, is a Museum (adm. 6d.), containing
a model of Cook's ship (see above) and other interesting relics.
We now cross the bridge and proceed to the left through Church
St., from the end of which a flight of 199 steps ascends to St. Mary's
Church, where some traces of the original Norman work may still be
distinguished. —
A little to the right lie the picturesque ruins of
*Whitby Abbey, originally founded in the 7th cent. , but dating in
its present form from the 12- 14th cent. (adm. 3d.). The poet
Caedmon was a monk in Whitby Abbey. To the S.W., on the site
of the abbot's lodging, is Whitby Manor House, with a hall of the
17th cent, (dismantled) ; the Test of the building has been restored.
On the W. Cliff, in front of the Royal Hotel, are the West Cliff
Gbounds (adm. 6<J.; *View), with a Pavilion, containing a theatre,
restaurant, etc. A band plays here in the forenoon and evening.
The Environs of Whitby afford many pleasant excursions. Among
the favourite points are Robin Mood's Bay (p. 420; fine walk along the
cliffs); Coekshot Mill, 2 M. to the W.; Sandsend, 3 M. to the N. (by the
sands); and Mulgrave Castle (5 M. to the W.), the seat of the Marquis of
Normanby, with fine grounds and the remains of an old castle. —
Whitby
Abbey is visible from almost every point in the nearer environs.
Beyond Whitby the coast-railway from Scarborough is prolonged to
(23 M.) Saltburn (Zetland; Alexandra; Oilberton's Temperance), a fashion-
able seaside resort, which has direct railway-communication with Stock-
ton and Darlington (see p. 410).
From Whitby to Picton, see p. 410; to Malton, see p. 419.

53, From Leeds to Harrogate, Bipon, and Thirsk.

Noeth Eastern Kailwat to (18 M.) Harrogate in »/4-l hr. (fares 2s.
6d., 2s., Is. 6d.); to (30 M.) Ripon in I-IV4 hr. (fares 4s., 3s. id., 2».
BVad.); to (39 M.) Thirsk in 1V4-2V4 hrs. (fares 5s. 2d., 4*. 4<f., 3s. 2y2 d.).
Leeds , see p. 402. Passing some small stations , we reach
(9'/2 M.) Arthington Junction, whence a branch diverges on the
left to Otley anillkley (p. 403). About 4 M. to the E. is Harewood
House, the seat of the Earl of Harewood, containing a picture-gal-
422 Route 53. HARROGATE.

lei-yand a valuable collection of china (open on Thurs.). The

church at Harewood contains the tomb of Chief Justice Gascoigne,
who is said to have committed Prince Hal to prison.
18 M. Harrogate. —
Hotels. —
In High Harrogate: *Qoeen, Granby,
Pkince of Wales three large houses facing the Stray hoard 9s. 6d.,
, ,

R. &. A. extra; Royal, Empkess, also facing the Stray, somewhat less ex-
pensive; Clarendon; Gascoigne's, commercial. —
In Low Harrogate (near
the springs) Prospect Hotel , well situated, near the station, 'pens', lis.
:

Qd.; Ckown, 'pens'. 12s.; White Haet, similar charges; Wellington;

Adelphi; Geoege; Alexandra, 'pens'. 8s. Somerset Hoose, 'pens', from
;

7s. ; Commercial, 'pens'. 7s. 6d. ; North Eastern Station, convenient for
passing travellers; Claremont Temperance. —
Hydropathic, near the
wells. —
Passing travellers, especially at the larger hotels, should come to
distinct understanding beforehand as to prices, otherwise no allowance
may he made for meals taken outside the hotel. The custom of dressing
for dinner prevails at some of the most fashionable hotels. —
Boarding
Houses and Lodgings abound.
Cab from the station to any of the hotels, 1-2 pers. Is., 3-4pers. Is. 6d.
Harrogate (450 ft. above the sea), in a high and bracing situ-
ation among the Yorkshire moors ranks with Bath and Buxton
,

among the three chief inland watering-places of England. It con-

sists of two parts, High and Low Harrogate the former to the left
,

(E.) of the station, the latter to the right. It is perhaps the

most aristocratic of all the great English spas and the one least
,

exposed to the inroads of excursionists. The High Harrogate hotels

face the Stray, a common 200 acres in extent. The Wells for which
Harrogate is visited are in the lower part of the town, and have been
known for nearly 300 years.
They include the chief sulphur-springs
of England, and also chalybeate
springs not unlike those of Kissingen and Homburg, though less pleasant
to drink owing to the absence of carbonic acid. The Sulphur Springs, of
which there are two strong (Old and Montpellier) and seventeen mild, are
efficacious in most affections of the liver, jaundice, gout, rheumatism,
and diseases of the skin. The six Chalybeate Springs are tonic and stim-
ulant. The so-called Bog Springs, 16 in number, rise in a small piece of
boggy ground, a little to the W. of the sulphur-springs, and though
close together no two are exactly alike. Near the springs are various
Pump Rooms, Baths, and other adjuncts of a fashionable spa. —
Smollett
gives an account of Harrogate a century ago in 'Humphrey Clinker'.
About 1 M. to the W. is Harlow Hill (600 ft.), with its tower (view).
Other favourite points for excursions are Knaresborough (p. 409), 3 M. to
the N.E. of High Harrogate ; Harewood (p. 421), 8 M. to the S.; Plutnpton
Park (adm. 6d), 4 M. to the E. ; Almes Cliff, 5%
M. to the S.W. ; Ripon and
Fountains Abbey (see p. 423) ; and Bolton Abbey (p. 403), 16 M. to the W. —
A line runs from Harrogate to (14V2 M.) Pateley Bridge (King's Arms), near
the picturesque Brimham Crags. —
From Harrogate to York, see p. 409.
30 M. Ripon (*Vnicorn, old-fashioned, R. & A. 4s.; Crown;
Black Bull; Royal Oak), a quaint little country- town with 7500
inhab., pleasantly situated on the Vre, 3 /i M. from the station (omn.
6d.). It celebrated its millenary in 1886, though it is doubtful
whether any buildings except those connected with the monastery
(see below), were in existence here in the 9th century.
A monastery was founded at Ripon in the 7th cent., and was rebuilt
by St. Wilfrid about 670. In 678 the see of a bishop was fixed here,
but it lapsed with the death of its lirst holder and was not revived till
 RIPON. 53. Route. 423
1836. From time immemorial a horn has been sounded nightly, at 9 o'clock,
before the house of the 'Wakeman', or Mayor, and at the market-cross.
The Cathedral, which does not occupy the same site as the
church of St. Wilfrid (see p. 422), is approached from the market-
place by the Kirk Gate. It dates in its present form from the 12-15th
centuries. The transepts and part of the choir are in the Transition
style (1154-81), the W. Front is E.E. (1215-55), the E. end of
the choir is Dec. (1288-1300), a.nd the nave, part of the S. side of
the choir, and the Central Tower are Perp. (1460-1520). The
Saxon Crypt is supposed to have belonged to a second church as-
cribed to St. Wilfrid. The whole church has been restored by Scott.
It is one of the smaller English cathedrals, being only 270 ft. in
length but it is 87 wide across the nave and aisles. The daily ser-
;

vices are at 10 a.m. and 4.15 p.m. Adm. to the choir and crypt Gd.
The Nave, which has no triforium, is Perp., except the E.E. bays
opening into the W. Towers. Two of the original arches (E. and S.) be-
low the central tower have been changed from Norman to Perp., but the
other two are still circular, though the lofty shafting run up at the W.
arch shows that the intention was to change them all. —The Transepts
retain much of the Transition work of Archbishop Roger, the founder
of the church. — The Choir, in which the Transition Norman, the Dec,
and the Perp. portions are readily distinguishable, is separated from the
nave by a good Perp. Screen. The triforium-openings have been glazed,
so that there are three rows of windows at different levels. The Dec. E.
window is fine, though its modern glass is poor. The beautiful carving
on the stalls is of the 15th century.
To the S. of the choir are the Chapter House and Vestry, which
are believed to have together formed a small Norman church. Below
them is a Norman crypt. Above them is the Lady Loft, a chapel of the
Dec. period, built against the outside wall of the cathedral.
From the N.E. angle of the Nave we descend to the "Crypt, which
is one of the only two Saxon crypts in England, both built in the 7th
cent, by St. Wilfrid (comp. p. 413). A long narrow passage leads to a
small vaulted chamber, with a curious opening or hole called 'St. Wilfrid's
Needle', which was used, it is said, as a test of chastity, the pure only
being able to be drawn through it.
In Stammergate is the interesting Hospital of St. Mary Magda-
lene, founded in the 12th cent, for lepers in High St. is the Mai-
;

son Dieu ,a hospital of the 15th cent. ; and in Bondgate is St.

John's Chapel. The Museum (adm. 2d.), in Park St., chiefly con-
tains objects of natural history.
From Ripon to Fountains Abbey, 3 M. (carr. 3*.). Walkers leave
the town by the Westgate, opposite the Unicorn Hotel, and after a few yards
diverge to the left through Park St., passing the Museum. At the fork
(finger-post) we again keep to the left. After about 1 M. we cross a bridge
over the Laver, and take the road most to the right. About 3 min.
farther on, a wicket on the left opens on a field-path, which cuts off V3 M.
and emerges in the middle of Studley Village, where we turn to the
left, soon reaching the outer gates of Studley Royal, the seat of the
Marquis of Ripon. Passing through the gates we ascend the long
avenue, at the end of which is a conspicuous Church, built by the
Marquis of Ripon in 1876. After about 3/t M., before reaching the
church, we turn to the left, under the beech-trees (Spanish chestnuts and
other timber also line), pass a lake, and arrive at the O/4 M.) gate of the
pleasure-grounds (Is.). The grounds, through which runs the Shell, are
elaborately laid out, with trimmed hedges, parterres, ponds, statuary,
and small temples. After passing various 'Views' (sign-posts) we cross
424 54. Route. BEVERLEY.
the stream by a rustic bridge, bend back along the Crescent and Moon
Ponds, and ascend to the Octagon Tower. We
then turn to the right and
proceed in the original direction to 'Anne Boleyris Seat, an arbour affording
a sudden "View of Fountains Abbey, which lies below, on the opposite
bank of the Skell. On the way down to it we pass Robin HoocTs Well,
where the 'Curtal Friar' soundly thrashed that noble outlaw and threw
him into the river. — "Fountains Abbey, a Cistercian foundation of the
14th cent., is at once the most extensive and the most picturesque monastic
ruin in England; and nowhere else in the country can the plan of the
secular buildings be so clearly traced. The "Church is in the Transition
Norman and E.E. styles, with a Perp. Tower and an additional transept
at the E. end resembling the 'Nine Altars' of Durham (p. 413). The
Monastic Buildings lie to the S., and include the Great Cloister (300 ft.
long), the Chapter House, the Refectory, the Buttery, the Fratry, and the
Kitchen. A little to the E. of these are the remains of the Infirmary (?)
and the foundations of the Abbots House. —
A little to the W. (beyond
the bridge and the gate) is Fountains Hall, an interesting Jacobean man-
sion. We then return by the drive along the left bank of the Skell.
Other points of interest are Maikenfield Hall, 3'/2 M. to the S.W. ; Hack-
fall Woods (adm. 6d.), 7 1. to the N.W. ; and the Brimham Rocks (p. 422).
From (33 M.) Melmerby branch-lines diverge to (11 M.) North-
allerton (p. 409) and (7!/2 M.) Masham (472 M. from Jervaulx
Abbey, p. 410). — 39 M. Thirsk (p. 409).

54. From York to Beverley and Hull.

Noexh Eastern Railway to (34 M.) Beverley in IV4-IV2 hr. (4s. 6d.,
3s. Qd., 2s. 9y2 <J.); to (41 1/2 M.) Hull in 1V2-1 3A hr. (5s. Id., is. 8d., 3s. 6d.).
York, see p. 406. To the left runs the Scarborough line (R. 52).
9 M. Stamford Bridge was the scene of the defeat of Hardrada of
Norway by Harold in 1066. — 16 M. Pocklington (Feathers), a
small town, with an E.E. church with a Perp. tower. 23 M. —
Market Weighton (Londesborough Arms) is the junction of lines to
Selby (see p. 405) and to (14 M.) Driffield (see p. 425). We now
enter the undulating chalk-district known as the Wolds.
34 M. Beverley (*Beverley Arms King's Arms; King's Head;
;

Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), a quiet town, the see of a R. C. bishop, with

ll,500inhab., surpasses all English towns of its size in possessing
two fine churches of all but the first rank. The short Railway
Street leads to a triangular space with a large lamp in the centre,
where we turn to the left to reach the Minster, and to the right to
the Market Place, St. Mary's, and the Bar
*Beverley Minster (334 ft. long, 64 ft. wide), which occupies
the site of a much earlier church, dates mainly from the 13-14th
centuries. The Perp. West Facade resembles that of York Minster.
Interior. Among the most noticeable points in the Nave, which is
in the late-Dec. style (ca. 1350), are the triforium - arcade, the musical
angels on the piers, the tabernacle -work below the W. window, and the
'Maiden's Tomb' (below the 15th bay from the W. on the S. side).
— The E. E. Choib is separated from the nave by a good modern
screen, and contains some fine old stalls. Between the choir and the N.E.
Transept is the beautiful 'Percy Shrine (1365), a good view of which is ob-
tained from the top of the reredos. The details of the choir repay close
inspection. — The top of the W. Towers (200 ft.) affords an extensive view.
*St. Mary's Church, a little beyond the market-place, is an-
 HULL. 54. Route. 425

other unusually fine cruciform church , mainly in the Dec. and

Perp. styles, though possessing features of earlier date.
Among the special points of interest are the "W. Front, the S. Porch
.(with a Norman arch on the inside), the Flemish Chapel (with flamboyant
tracery), the panelled Ceiling of the chancel, and the Sculptural Decora-
tion throughout the church.
A short way beyond St. Mary's is the North Bar, dating from
the 14th cent. and formerly one of the gates of the town.
, Just
outside it is a picturesque half-timbered house. — About l /s M. to
the E. of the Minster is the handsome modern Church of St. Nicholas.
At Beverley the line from York joins the line from Hull to Scarborough,
which runs northwards via (11 M.) Driffield (Red Lion), an agricultural
town with 6000 inhab., Bridlington (p. 420), and Filey (p. 420).
38!/2 M. Cottingham a favourite residence of Hull merchants.
,

41 ^H. —
Hull. Hotels. Imperial, near the N.E. Station; N.E. Station
Hotel, R. & A. 4s.; Cross Rets; Vittokia, at the Pier; George; Royal;
Central Temperance. — Railway Refreshmt. Rooms.
Railway Stations. Besides the Paragon Station of the N.E.R. , near
the centre of the town , there is a Boohing Office of the Manchester,
Sheffield, & Lincolnshire Railway at the Corporation Pier, whence a Steam
Ferry conveys passengers to the Railway Terminus in New Holland, on
the other side of the Humber.
Steamers ply regularly from Hull to Bergen, Christiania, Copenhagen,
Antwerp, Rotterdam, Hamburg, Bremen, New York, Rouen, Aberdeen, Dundee,
Leith, Grimsby, London, and numerous other British and foreign ports.
Tramways and Omnibuses traverse the main streets, running to
the Corporation Pier and various suburbs (fares id., 2d.).
Hull or Kingston - upon - Hull, a town on the Humber estuary
with 155,000 inhab., is the chief emporium of the trade between
England and Northern Europe, and the headquarters of a deep-sea
fishing fleet of500 boats. Though a place of considerable antiquity,
it possesses few old buildings and offers little to detain the tourist.
The following walk (2-3 hrs.) passes most of the points of interest.
Leaving the Paragon Station, we walk through Paragon St. and Water-
works St. pass the Dock Office and the Wilberforce Column, and
,

cross the Whitefriargate Bridge, which affords a view (right) of the

Docks. At the end of "Whitefriargate, Trinity House Lane, with the
Trinity House (established in 1369), leads to the right to Trinity
Church, a large Dec. and Perp. edifice, restored by Scott(seep.liii).
Passing round to the Market Place , in front of the church we ,

descend to the right through Queen St. to the Corporation Pier,

which affords a good view of the traffic in the Humber and of the
flat coast of Lincolnshire on the opposite side (ferry, see above).
We now retrace our steps to Humber St., turn to the right, and
soon reach the quaint High St. In the latter, immediately to the
right, is the old De la Pole Residence, with curious carvings. Near
the middle of the street, to the left, is the King's Head, an old
inn with an overhanging story ; and at the end of the street, to the
right (No. 25), is the red brick house in which William Wilberforce
was born in 1759. Salthouse Lane, nearly opposite, leads to the
large Queen's Dock. Here we turn sharply to the left into Lowgate,
in which, to the right, stands the Town Hall, in the Italian style.
 426 Route 55. LINCOLN. From Hull

Opposite is the Church of St. Mary, aPerp. edifice, restored by Scott,

with the side-walk running below the tower (good interior). —
Silver
St., at the end of Lowgate, leads back to Whitefriargate (see above).
£',. From Hull
to Gainsborough, see p. 361; to Lincoln, see R. 55.—Branch-
run from Hull to (15V2 M.) Hornsea ( Marine; New) and to (18 M.)
lines also
Wilhemsea (Queen's), two small watering-places on the German Ocean.

55 . From Hull to Lincoln and Nottingham.

Railway in 3 3A-6hrs. (fares 13*. 5d., 6s. frfed.). We travel by
75 M.
the Manchester, Sheffield, & Lincolnshire Railway to (42 M.) Lincoln
and thence to (33 M.) Nottingham by the Midland Railway. Through-carriages
are attached to some trains.
Hull, see p. 425. Taking our tickets at the booking-office on
the Corporation Pier (comp. p. 425), we cross the Humber by a steam
ferry to (2 M.) New Holland, the starting-point of the railway.
The line traverses the flat and featureless county of Lincoln. At
(6 M.) Thornton Abbey, to the right, is a picturesque old abbey. —
8'/2 M. Vlceby, junction of a line to Great Grimsby and Cleethorpes.
Great Grimsby (Royal; Yarborough; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is a pros-
perous seaport and fishing-town on the S. bank of the Humber, with
30,000 inhabitants. —
Cleethorpes (Dolphin; Cliff; Victoria; Rail. Refreshmt.
Rooms), with 3000 inhab., is a rising watering-place.
From Great Grimsby a line runs to the S. to Boston (p. 429).
13 M. Barnetby is the junction of lines to Oainsborough and
Doncaster (p. 405). — 38 M. Market Rasen (White Hart).
42 M. Lincoln. —
Railway Stations. The O. N. and the Midland
Railway Stations, near each other, adjoin the High St. — Hotels. Gkeat
Northern Station Hotel, R. & A. 5s.; "White Hart, near the Cathedral;
Saracen's Head; Albion; Spread Eagle. —Rail. Refreshment Rooms.
Lincoln, the county-town of Lincolnshire and the see of a
bishop, with about 40,000 inhab., is finely situated on a hill rising
from the Witham, in the midst of the low fen district.
Lincoln, the British Lindcoit and the Lindum Colonia (one of nine
privileged Colonia;) of the Romans , is one of the most ancient towns in
Great Britain , and rivals Chester in the interest of its memorials of the
past. In the 9th cent. Lincoln and Lincolnshire were occupied by the Danes,
who have left traces of their settlement in the ending by, so common in
local names in this shire. Lincoln was accounted the fourth city of the
realm at the time of the Norman Conquest, and William I. selected it as
the site of one of his castles. The chief external events in the subse-
quent history of the town are the captures of the Castle by King Stephen in
1140, by the Barons in 1216, and by the Parliamentarians in 1644. Christ-
ianity was first introduced here by Paulinus (p. 427) in the 7th cent.;
but the bishopric was not established till 1073, when the Mercian see was
transferred hither from Dorchester (comp. p. 219). The chief industry of
Lincoln is the manufacture of agricultural implements, and it carries on
a considerable trade with the Midlands by means of the Fossdyke Canal,
which joins the Witham and the Trent.
The following round includes most of the principal objects of
interest in Lincoln, though the archaeologist and student of archi-
tecture will find material here to occupy him for many days. Leaving
the Midland Railway Station, we proceed to the N. along High
Street, passing the modern church of St. Mark on the left. On the
opposite side f ^f 3331 is an interesting half-timbered house, which
=1 Mfetres "WTDoorwHy-s
 to Nottingham. LINCOLN. 55. Route. 427

should be viewed from the court-yard. "We then cross the Gr. N.
Railway and reach St. Mary-le -Wig ford, the tower of which is a
good example of the pre-Norman style, though built shortly after
the Conquest. The E.E. nave and chancel date from about 1225,
and the S. aisle is modern. In front of the church stands St. Marys
Conduit, constructed in the time of Henry VIII. (1509-47) with
fragments of an old monastery. To the left, farther on, are the ivy-
clad remains of St. Benedict's Church.
We may here diverge, through the archway, to see Bradford Pool
(boats for hire), the S. hank of which affords a good view of the Cathedral.
We now reach the *High Bridge, an ancient structure, with a row
of buildings on its W.
side (quaint, Dutch-like view of their backs
by descending the steps to the left). In front is the *Stonebow,
a 16th cent, gate-house, the upper part used as the Ouildhall.
Just heyond the Stonehow, at the church of St. Peter-at- Arches (18th
cent.), we may diverge to the right, through Silver St., to visit St. Swithin's
Church, which contains a Koman altar, discovered in 1884.
At the head of High St., we follow the narrow Strait, to the
right. At the end of this, to the left, is the * Jew's House, one of
the most ancient specimens of domestic architecture in England
(early 12th cent. comp. p. xl).
; —
The Strait is continued by the
Steep Hill, halfway up which is a platform known as the Mayor's
Chair. Near the top of the hill, to the right, is the House of Aaron
the Jew, with a Norman window. Opposite is the Bishop's Hostel,
connected with the Lincoln Theological School. To the right, far-
ther on, is the Exchequer Gate of the Minster Yard (p. 429). In the
meantime, however, we turn to the left and enter the Castle
(adm. 2d.).
The Castle Walls enclose an area of 6V2 acres, laid out as a garden,
and contain the Assize Courts and the old County Prison (disused). To reach
the Keep (12th cent.) we turn to the left on entering and pass through a
gateway. View from the top of Cobb's Sail, the round tower to the S. of
the entrance. Just inside the entrance-gateway, to the right, is a line
Oriel Window, hrought from John of Gaunt's Palace (p. 429).

We now continue in a straight direction through the Bailgate,

in which, in the cellar of Mr. Allis's House (No. 27, to the left;
adm. Is.) , are the highly-interesting remains of a Roman Basilica.
In the Westgate, which diverges to the left from the Bailgate, is
St. Paul's Church, occupying the site of the church of St. Paulinus (p. 426).
Bailgate ends at the *Newport Arch, one of the gates of
Lindum Colonia and a unique specimen of a Roman city-gate in
England. Its date is placed between B.C. 50 and A.D. 50. — We
may now turn to the right and pass along the East Bight into the
Minster Yard (see p. 429), which we reach on its N. side.
"Lincoln Cathedral, splendidly crowning the hill on which the
city is built, may perhaps claim to be the finest church in Great
Britain. Other cathedralB may equal or surpass it in certain points,
but in the combination of size, delicacy of detail, effectiveness 01
both interior and exterior, good preservation, and grandeur of po-
sition, it has probably no rival. The building is 480 ft. long (in-
428 Route 55. LINCOLN. From Hull

temal measurement), 80 ft. -wide, 220 ft. across the "W. transepts,
and 82 ft. high. Daily services, 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Adm. to the
choir and cloisters 6cL, to the tower 6d.
History. Of the original cathedral, built at the end of the ilth
cent., there remains the lower portion of the W. front and part of the
first hay of the nave. The Norman cathedral was injured by an earth-
quake in 1185, and its restoration was at once undertaken by Bishop Hugh
('St. Hugh of Lincoln'; 1186-1200), who finished the Choir and the E.
Transepts, the earliest piece of E.E. work of known date (p. xlii). The
W. Transepts and Chapter House were completed soon after, and the Nave,
including the W. front, by about 1250. The Presbytery and Cloisters fol-
lowed in the same cent., and the upper story of the Central Tower, the
lower part of which dates from about 1240-50, was added between 1300
and 1320. The upper parts of the W. towers are late-Dec. (ca. 1380).
The Chapels attached to the Presbytery are Perp. (15-16th cent.).
Exterior. Among the most noteworthy external features of the Cathed-
ral are its fine "Central and W. Towers (262 ft. & 200 ft. high); the * W. Fa-
cade, which is imposing in spite of its mixture of styles (p. xxxix) and
the fact that it is in some degree a mere screen ; the E. Front, somewhat
marred by the aisle-gables; the Galilee Porch, adjoining the S.W. Tran-
sept; the S.E. Portal; and the Chapter Souse, with its flying buttresses.
Interior. The usual entrance is by one of the W. doors. The Nave
is harmonious and imposing , though the vaulting is rather low and the
bays too wide. At its W. end are two chapels, of somewhat later date.
The Norman font stands under the second arch to the S. The stained glass
is modern, and the monuments are of little interest. The way in which the
E.E. work is accommodated to the pre-existing Norman front is interesting.
— The Central Tower is supported by four fine and lofty arches, with
massive stone piers, contrasting with the slender piers of the nave. In
the lantern hangs 'Great Tom', a bell weighing 5 l /z tons. — The Great
Transepts contain two bays of St. Hugh's work, while the rest is a
little later. The most interesting features are the two circular windows,
that in the S. transept being called the "Bishop's Eye (ca. 1325), and that
in the N. the -Bean's Eye (ca. 1225). The glass in both is old. The E.
aisles of the transepts contain chapels, separated from the transepts by
carved screens. The beautiful Doorways leading into the choir-aisles are
of the latest E.E. period.
The "Choir, the oldest known example of the E.E. or pure Gothic
style, is separated from the nave by a Dec. Screen (1320), surmounted by
the organ. The lowness of the vaulting is felt here even more than in the
nave. The five easternmost bays of the choir, beyond the E. Transepts,
form the ""Presbytery or Angel Choir, 'one of the loveliest of human
works', added in 1255-80. Its proportions and its details are alike admir-
able. The "Choir Stalls, dating from the late-Dec. period (1360-80), are un-
surpassed in England (comp. p. 273). Among other noticeable points in
the choir are the "E. Window; the Easter Sepulchre, to the left of the
high-altar; the monuments of Catherine Swynford, third wife of John of
Gaunt, and their daughter, the Countess of Westmorland, to the right of
the altar; the site of the shrine of Little St. Hugh of Lincoln, a child al-
leged to have been crucified by the Jews; the unique Piers at the angles
of the choir and E. transept, with their crocketed and detached shafts; the
modern Pulpit; the monument of Bp. Wordsworth (d. 1885); the sculptured
Angels in the Angel Choir; and the Diapered Screen of the Choristers''
Vestry. Most of the stained glass is modern and bad.
From the N.E. Transept we enter a vestibule leading to the Cloisters,
on the floor of which is a slab marking the grave of 'Mrs. Mariham'
(Elizabeth Penrose), the guide of our earliest historical studies. The
Cloisters were erected towards the end of the 13th century. The N. Walk,
rebuilt by Wren, affords one of the best views of the Cathedral. — In the
E. Walk is the entrance to the "Chapter House, a decagonal building of
the 13th cent., with vaulting borne by a central shaft. — The Chapter
Library, above the N. Cloister, contains 5000 vols, and valuable MSS.
 — ;

to Nottingham. BOSTON. 55. Route. 429

Many of the houses surrounding the Close, or Minster Yard, are
picturesque and interesting. Among these are the Chancery (14- 15th cent.),
at the N.E. angle the Cantilupe Chantry ; the house known as the Priory
•,

and the quaint little Vicars' Court (14-15th cent.), opposite the S. Transept.
The remains of the Old Episcopal Palace to the S., the oldest parts dating
from early in the 12th cent., are also of great interest; they include
Bishop Alnwick's Tower (now fitted up for the Theological School) and
Dining Room, and St. Hugh's Hall. A new Palace has been erected by the
side of the ruins of the earlier one, a part of which has been restored
as the Bishop's Domestic Chapel. The Deanery, to the If. of the Cathedral,
is modern; the Sub-Deanery (with a good oriel) and the Precentory have
been modernized. — The main entrance to the Close is by the Exchequer
Gate (see p. 427), a large three-arched gateway of the early 14th century.
Potter Gate, at the S. E. corner, is of the same date.
Among other points of interest in Lincoln are the Arboretum,
on the E. side of the city the small ruin of Monks' Abbey St. Anne's
; ;

Bede-Houses ; the large County Hospital: and the new Science fy Art
School. —
In the High St., to the S. of our starting-point at the
Midland Railway (see p. 426), is St. Mary's Guild, an interesting
range of 12th cent, buildings, popularly known as John of Gaunt's
Stables (to the left; near St. Peter's). On the opposite side
(Nos. 122, 123) is John of Gaunt's Palace (much altered). The
old church of St. Peter-at-Gowts, on the other side of the street,
has a pre -Norman tower like that of St. Mary's (p. 427). The
High St. ends at the Bargate Bridge, over an arm of the Witham.
The immediate environs of Lincoln contain few attractions for the
ordinary traveller, but the ecclesiologist will find much to interest him
in Lincolnshire churches.
From Lincoln to Grantham, see p. 361. —
A line also runs from Lin-
coln to Gainsborough (p. 361). —The usual routes from London to Lincoln
are the G. N. K. from King's Cross or the G. E. R. from Liverpool St.
(3-4 hrs.; fares 18j. 10d., 14». 3d., 10«. 9d.); it may also be reached from
St. Pancras via Nottingham, or from Euston via. Eugby and Trent.
From Lincoln to Boston, 30 M., G. N. R. in l /* hr. (fares 4». 2d.,
1

2s. 6V2<J.). This line runs through the fen-country, following the lower
course of the Witham. From (8V2 M.) Bardney a branch-line runs N. to
Louth, with a fine church-spire, 294 ft. high. AidblfcW^Kirkstead, with the
remains of a Cistercian abbey (12th cent.), a line diverges to Horncastle, passing
Woodhall Spa, with springs strongly impregnated with iodine. —
To the
left, near (I8V2 M.) Tattershall, is the keep of an old Castle (16th cent.).
30 M. Boston, i.e. St. Botolph's Town (Peacock; Red Lion; Rail. Rftnt.
Rooms), an ancient seaport at the mouth of the Witham, with 19,000 inhab.,
is perhaps chiefly interesting from its association with its famous name-
sake on the other side of the Atlantic. The 'Church of St. Botolph is a
large Dec. building, with a lofty Perp. tower ('Boston Stump') crowned
with an octagonal lantern (300 ft.). — Boston is a railway- centre of some
importance, lines running N. to Skegness (a rising watering-place), Wil-
loughby (with a branch to Sutton-on-Sea and Mablethorpe), Louth (see above),
and Grimsby (p. 426); W. to Sleaford (p. 361) and Barkstone (p. 361) ; and S.
to Spalding (Lynn, Peterborough, etc.). Many of the finest churches in Lin-
colnshire and Norfolk lie on the railway between Boston and Lynn (p. 441).
Beyond Lincoln the train continues to run through the fenny
district, the meres and marshes of which have, however, been
mostly converted into rich pasture and fertile corn-land. At —
(57V2 M.) Newark (p. 361) we cross the main line of the G.N.R.
61 72 M. Bolleston is the junction of a line to (7 J /2 M.) South-
well and (14i/2 M.) Mansfield (p. 350).
430 Route 55. NOTTINGHAM.
Southwell (Saracen's Bead), a small town with 3000 inhab., is often
visited for the sake of its fine "Minster (306 ft. long), formerly
a col-
legiate church, and lately raised to the rank of a cathedral. It is
one of
the few great English churches of an early period that retain their three
towers. The Nave, Transepts, and Towers are Norman, dating from the
beginning of the 12th cent. ; and the massive -Interior is very imposing
The Choir, with its ingeniously combined triforium and clerestory is E E
dating from 1230-50. The Chapter House, erected in 1285-1300, is adorned
with exquisite 'Stone-carvings. The fine Screen separating the choir and
nave is Dec. (14th cent.). —
To the S. of the cathedral are the ruins of
an old Palace of the Archbishops of York and the New Palace by Bodley.
At (65 M.) Thurgarton is Thurgarton Priory, on the site of a
Benedictine convent. The Priory Church is now the parish-church.
75 M. Nottingham ( George; Clarendon; Flying Horse; Maypole]
Lion; Caledonian Temperance) the metropolis of the lace and
,

hosiery manufacture of England, is pleasantly situated on the steep

slope of a sandstone hill, near the junction of the small river Leen
with the Trent. The population is now about 230,000.
Nottingham, the Snodengahame of the Saxons, is one of the most an-
cient towns in England, and probably occupies the site of an early British
settlement. The castle (see below) was occupied by several of the English
kings and is frequently heard of in English history. At the beginning of
the present century Nottingham was a centre of the 'Luddite' riots, in
which the stocking-makers endeavoured to improve their miserable posi-
tion by concerted action against the masters, chiefly by the destruction
of machinery. It was not till upwards of 1000 stocking-frames had been
demolished and several rioters put to death that order was finally restored.
The Market Place of Nottingham, 5y2 acres in extent, is said
to he the largest in England. It was formerly divided into two
portions by a breast-high wall, which was erected when the town
consisted of two distinct boroughs, English and Norman. The second
stories of the houses round it project over the pavement and are
supported by pillars, forming a kind of arcade. The *University
College, a handsome Gothic building, contains a free public library,
a natural history museum well-equipped laboratories etc. The
, ,

Church of St. Mary is a fine cruciform edifice of the 15th cent.,

with a tower and chancel of later date it possesses a fine picture
;

ascribed to Fra Bartolommeo. The Rom. Cath. Cathedral is a good

example of Pugin's revived Gothic. The School of Art and the Ar-
boretum may also be mentioned.
The *Castle, which occupies a commanding position on the W.
side of the town, 150 ft. above the Leen, is, in its present form, a
palatial building in the Renaissance style ,containing the *Mid-
land Counties Art Museum.
The original castle, built by the Conqueror, soon came to be regarded as
the key of the Midlands, and was a frequent object of contest. Mortimer,
the guilty favourite of Queen Isabella, was surprised here in 1330 by Ed-
ward III., who gained entrance by a secret passage now known as 'Mor-
timer's Hole'; Owen Glendower was imprisoned within its walls; and
David II. of Scotland was lodged here on his way to London. In 1642
Charles I. unfurled his standard and mustered his troops at Nottingham
Castle, but in the following year it fell into the hands of the Parliament.
It was then entrusted to the care of Col. Hutchinson, whose wife has left
us in her well-known memoirs a charming account of various episodes
of the Civil War. During the Commonwealth the old castle was demolished.
 BISHOPS STORTFORD. 56. Route. 431

The modern one founded in 1674 by the conspicuous Royalist, William Ca-
vendish, Duke of Newcastle, was burned down by the mob in 1831 in con-
sequence of the then Duke's opposition to the Reform Bill, and was after-
wards acquired by the Corporation and restored as a public museum. See
Mr. T. C. Hine's interesting monograph.
The tourist should visit one of the large Lace and Hosiery Factories, in
which the ingenuity and rapidity of the machines will interest the most
unprofessional observer. The manufacture of machine-made lace was be-
gun here upwards of a century ago and is now scarcely second in im-
portance to the hosiery industry. Among the largest establishments are
the hosiery-works of Messrs. I <k R. Morley (6000 workpeople) ; the hosiery
and lace factories of the Nottingham Manufacturing Co. ; and the machine-
works of the Messrs. Blackburn. The largest depot of lace in the town is
that of Messrs. Thomas Adams & Co.
Henry Kirke White (1785-1806), the poet, was the son of a butcher here,
and Col. Hutchinson (see p. 430; 1615-64) was also a native of Nottingham.
About 8 M. to the N.W. is Newstead Abbey (reached by train to Newstead
or Linby), the seat of Lord Byron, who is buried in the church of Hucknall
Torkard, 3 M. nearer Nottingham. A little to the S. of Newstead is
Annesley, the married home of Mrs. Musters, the 'Mary Chaworth' of
Byron's youthful poems. About 2 M. to the W. of Nottingham is Wollaton
Hall, the seat of Lord Middleton, a fine Elizabethan mansion, said to have
been designed by John of Padua; in the park is a famous double avenue
of limes. — Excursions may also be made from Nottingham to the Dukeries
(p. 360), Sherwood Forest (p. 361), and Southwell (p. 430).

56. From London to Cambridge.

56 M. Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street Station or St.
—
Pancras in 1V4-2V2 hrs. (fares 8s. 9d. , 6*. 9<J. , 4s. Vfad.). Cambridge
may also be reached by the G. N.R. via Hitchin (same times and fares),
or by the L.N.W.R. via. Bedford.
The trains starting from Liverpool Street and St. Pancras
N.E. suburbs of London and unite at (6 M.) Totten-
traverse the
ham. Beyond (8M.);4nsieZ .Road the wooded heights of Epping Forest
(see Baedeker's Handbook to London) are visible to the right. —
13 M. Waltham Cross (Four Swans) with Waltham Abbey and
,

Cross (see Baedeker's London). At (14 M.) Cheshunt, famous for its
rose-gardens, is the house where Richard Cromwell died. —
17 M.
Broxbourne is the junction of lines to Rye House and Hertford (see
p. 364 and Baedeker's London), and to Widford and Buntingford.
Charles Lamb used to frequent Widford church in his boyhood. —
—
We now cross the Lea and enteT Essex. From (30Y2 M.) Bishop's
Stortford {Qeorge; 7000 inhab.) a branch runs to (9 M.) Dunmow
(Saracen's Head), Braintree (18 M.), and (30 M.) Witham (p. 442).
Near Dunmow are the ruins of the Priory, where it was the custom
(recently revived) to present a flitch of bacon to any married couple who
had not repented of their marriage during a year and a day.
Near (42 M.) Audley End is the line seat of Lord. Braybrooke
(park open to visitors).
About 2 M. to the N.E. is Saffron Walden (Rose & Crown), a small
town (6100 inhab.), with a large Perp. church, a ruined castle, a museum,
and several quaint timbered houses.
46 M. Great Chester ford ; 53 M. Shelford. Farther on, the low
Oogmagog Hills are visible to the right. The red buildings on the
same side as we enter the station are Cavendish College (p. 439).
432 Route 56. CAMBRIDGE. History.

58 M. Cambridge. — Hotels. Bull (PI. a; B, 4), Trumpington St.,

R. & A. is. 6<J. ; University Arms, Regent St. (PI. I), 4); Red Lion (PI. c-
C, 3), Petty Cury; *Old Castle, opposite Emmanuel College (PI. D, 4)'
Hoop (PI. d; C, 2), Bridge St.; Prince of Wales (PI. e; C, 3), Sidney St.'
with restaurant Bird Bolt Temperance (PI. f C, 4), St. Andrew's St., plain!
; ;

Restaurants. Moyes, Benet St.; Prince of Wales Hotel, see above-

Webb, Market Passage , Market St. Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms.
; Ices at —
Thurston's, Market St.
Photographs. R. H. Lord, Market Place; Steam, Bridge St.; Hills <£•

Saunders, 15 King's Parade.

Baths. Flack, 25 St. Andrew's —
River Baths at the University
St.
Sheds (not open to strangers) and on Sheep's Green.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 13; C, 4), St. Andrew's St.
The Railway Station (beyond PI. D, 6) lies IV2 M. from the centre of
the town; cab Is. 6rif. (each pers. beyond one, 6d. extra).
Tramways run from the Station through Hills Road, Regent St., and
St. Andrew's St. to the Post Office (PI. 13; C, 4) and through Lensfleld
Road and Trumpington St. to the Market Place (PI. B, C, 3). Fares Id!., 2d.
Principal Attractions. Filzwilliam Museum (p. 433); Peterhouse (p. 433) •

Queens'' College (p. 434); King's College (p. 435), with

grounds and chapel;
its
Clare College (p. 436); Exterior of the University Library and Senate House
(p. 435); Trinity College (p. 436), and grounds; St. John's College (p. 437),
with grounds; the Round Church (p. 437); Magdalene College (p. 438);
Jesus College (p. 438); Oonville and Cuius College (p. 436). A college-service
should be attended in the chapel of King's Trinity, St. John's, or Jesus.
,

A walk or a row along the "Backs should on no account be omitted.

Boats may be hired on the Lower River, the Upper River, or the
Backs, three reaches of the Cam, at different levels, separated by locks.
Visitors who merely wish a short row should take a boat either at the
Mill Pool (PI. B, 5) or at Garret Hostel Bridge (PI. A, 3), adjoining
Trinity, and skirt the College Backs (see below). —
The Inter-Collegiate Boat
Races (comp. p. 227; chiefly in June) are rowed on the Lower River (p. 438),
and here also all the necessary practice is performed. The Procession of
the Boats at Commencement (p. 227) takes place at the Backs. The pretty
but narrow Upper River is resigned to non-racing boats.
Cambridge, a town -with about 40,000 inhab., situated on the Cam,
in a somewhat flat hut not unpleasing district, is interesting as the
seat of one of the two great English Universities. Though on the
whole less picturesque than Oxford, especially as regards general
views, Cambridge contains several collegiate buildings which are
at least equal in interest to those of the sister-university, while in
certain points, such as the 'Backs', i.e. the beautiful lawns and
avenues behind the colleges, it possesses charms peculiar to itself.
History. Though its authenticated pre-Academic epoch is longer, the
history of Cambridge is identified, even more than is the case at Oxford,
with the growth of its university. It is believed to occupy the site of the
British Caer Graunth and the Roman Camboritum, situated on the N. (left)
bank of the Cam or Crania. The name appears in the Anglo-Saxon
Chronicle as Qrantebrycge, and later as Cantebrigge (14-15th cent.). The town
was ravaged several times by the Danes, and William the Conqueror built
a castle here, of which almost nothing now remains (comp. p. 438).
In regard to the University legend has been no less daring at Cam-
,

bridge than at Oxford, ascribing the establishment of the first seat of

learning here to a Spanish prince named Cantaber, 300 years before the Chris-
tian era In both cases, however, the first establishment of teaching bodies
!

seems to have taken place in the 12th cent. , while their documentary
history begins in the 13th. The earliest recognition of Cambridge Univer-
sity occurs in a writ of the second year of Henry III. (1217) ; the first
college was founded in 1284 ; and in 1318 the University was recognised as a
studium generate by Pope John XXII. The manner of its early .development
 Peterhouse. CAMBRIDGE. 56. Route. 433
was similar to that of Oxford, and has already been indicated at p. 224. Of
the numerous disputes between the University and the Town, the most serious
was that of 1381, when the townsmen stormed the colleges and destroyed
most of their charters. In the Civil War many of the colleges sent their
plate to the king, but the town acquiesced without resistance in the rule
of the Commonwealth. Cambridge contains 17 colleges and 2 public hostels,
attended by about 3000 students.
Comp. Willis & Clark's 'Architectural History of Cambridge' (4 quarto
vols.; 1886), /. Bass Mullinger's admirable 'History of the University
of Cambridge' (1873-84) and his shorter work in the 'Epochs of Church
History' series (1888), J. W. Clark's 'Cambridge' (1890), the University
Calendar, and the Cambridge Student's Handbook. See also pp. 224, 225
for a general sketch of the customs and organisation of the University.
At the (3 min.) end of Station Road we turn to the right and
follow the tramway-line, passing the red Church of St. Paul, and
Harvey Road, leading to the University Cricket Oround. Afew
hundred yards farther on, at the large Roman Catholic Church, we
turn to the left into Lensfield Road, a broad thoroughfare passing
the grounds of Downing College (on the right; p. 439) to the O/4M.)
S. end of Trumpington Street. Here is situated Mobsons Conduit
(PL C, 6), constructed in 1614, partly at the cost of Thomas Hobson,
carrier and livery stable-keeper, whose rule of strict rotation in let-
ting out his horses gave rise to the phrase 'Hohson's Choice'. His
memory has been immortalised by Milton.
Following Trumpington St. towards the N. , we pass Adden-
brooke's Hospital (PI. 1 ; C, 5) and reach the *Fitzwilliam Museum
(PI. C, 5; open daily, 10-6 in summer and 10-4 in winter ; on Frid.
to visitors accompanied by a member of the University in academic
gown), a handsome building in a Grecian style, containing the im-
portant collections bequeathed by Viscount Fitzwilliara in 1816 and
acquisitions of later date.
Interior. Passing through the beautiful Entrance Hall, and ascending
the Staircase, we enter the large West Gallery, containing pictures by
Holbein, Diirer, Rembrandt (Officer), Titian, Paolo Veronese, Vow, Hogarth
and others (catalogues provided). —
To the right is the North Dome
Room, with paintings by British masters, and this is adjoined by the
North Gallery, containing works of less interest. —
The South Dome
Room contains minor Italian works, and the South Gallery works of
the French, Flemish, and German schools. A collection of 25 Drawings
by Turner is also shown. — In the Basement Room are ancient sculptures,
Greek vases, models of buildings, bronzes, Oriental curiosities, etc. — The
fine Library, with one of the richest collections of prints in Europe, is
shown to graduates and their friends only, or to undergraduates with an order.
The Archaeological Museum, an annexe to the Fitzwilliam Museum be-
hind St. Mary the Less (p. 434), contains upwards of 600 casts from the
antique (open daily, except Frid., 10 to 4 or 6; catalogue by Dr. Waldstein).
On the same side, just beyond the Museum, is St. Peter's
College (PI. B, C, 5), or Peterhouse, the oldest college in Cambridge,
founded by Hugh de Balsham, Bishop of Ely, in 1284. It possesses
two courts, the first of which is divided into two parts by the Chapel,
built in 1632 in an Italian Gothic style. The only parts of the ori-
ginal building are on the left side of the first court (visible from the
W.). The new Combination Room, on the S. side of the second court,
contains some beautiful stained glass byBnrne Jones and Morris.
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit, 28
434 Route, 56. CAMBRIDGE. Queens' College.

The most famous member of Peterhouse is the poet Gray, who occu-
pied rooms on the N. side of the first court. They are recognisable by
the iron bars at the window (on the outside wall, facing St. Mary the
Less), which are said to have been placed there by Gray to facilitate the
use of a rope-ladder in case of fire. — To the W. , reached from either
court, are the pleasant College Grounds.
Adjoining Peterhouse is the Church of St. Mary the Less (PL 8),
which for 350 years served as the college - chapel. It is in the
Dec. style of the 14th cent., hut has heen spoiled by alterations.
Opposite St. Mary's is Pembroke College (PI. B, C, 5), founded
by the Countess of Pembroke in 1347, but almost entirely rebuilt.
The Chapel was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1663-65 the ;

Hall Library and Masters Lodge are recent erections by Water-

, ,

house, the rest of the new buildings are by the younger Scott.
The room to the left of the entrance, formerly the chapel, contains a
fine ceiling. The cloister leading to the chapel is also interesting. The
pretty * Gardens contain a mulberry-tree associated with the memory of
Kdmund Spenser, who was a member of this college. Other eminent
alumni are Ridley, Grindal, Andrews, Gray (who removed to Pembroke
from Peterhouse), William Pitt, and Richard Crashaw.
To the left, at the corner of Mill Lane, stands the Pitt Press
(PI. B, 5), a large ecclesiastical -looking edifice, containing the
University Printing Office and the Registry. It is nicknamed the
'Freshmen's Church'. To the right is St. Botolph's Church (PI. 5).
Following Silver St. to the left, we reach *Queens' College (PI. B,
4), founded in 1448 by Queen Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI.,
and completed by Queen Elizabeth Woodville, wife of Edward IV.
We pass through the handsome vaulted Gateway, with its four turrets,
and enter the Great Court, with the Hall, Library, and "Chapel. On the wall
of the latter (adm. 6<2.), which has been judiciouly restored, is a large
sun-dial. The passage adjoining the Hall leads into the picturesque Cloister
Court, from which an old wooden bridge crosses the Cam to the "College
Grounds. To the S. of the Cloister Court is the Erasmus Court, with the
Erasmus Tower, in which Erasmus lodged. On the N. side of the princi-
pal court is the Walnut Tree Court. A new court has been built still
farther to the N. Thomas Fuller was a member of Queens'.
By continuing to follow Silver St., crossing the Cam, and going through
a lane in a straight direction, we reach Ridley Hall, a modern theological
seminary. Farther on, beyond Corpus Cricket Ground, is Selwyn College,
founded in 1882, and intended, like Keble College (p 232), to provide an
economical university training for members of the Church of England. —
To the S. of Selwyn is Newnham College, one of the two women's col-
leges at Cambridge, established in 1875. It accommodates 100 students.
Leaving Queens' by the main gateway and turning to the left,
we reach St. Catharine's College (PI. B, 4), founded in 1475. Arch-
bishop Sandys was Master of St. Catharine's. —Passing through
this college, we again reach Trumpington St., opposite —
Corpus Christi College (PI. B, 4), established in 1352 by the
amalgamation of the 'Gilda Corporis Christi' and the 'Gilda Beatse
Mariae Virginis'. The W. front and the first court are modern, but
the picturesque Old Court (entered from the N.E. angle of the first
court) belongs to the original building. The Library (to the right
on entering) contains a very valuable collection of MSS., bequeathed
by Archbishop Parker, and the Buttery possesses some fine old plate.
 Library. CAMBRIDGE. 58. Route. 435

Archbishops Tenison and Parker, Marlowe, Fletcher, Richard Boyle,

and Samuel Wesley are among the names on the college-books.
Behind Corpus, between Downing St. and Free School Lane, are the
Science Schools and Museums (see p. 439).
In Benet Street, to the N. of Corpus, is St. Benedict's Church
(PI. 4), generally called St. Benet's, the tower of which is one of
the best specimens of pre-Norman architecture in England. In the
interior the arch opening into the tower is noticeable the rest of
;

the building has been modernized (key at 3 King's Parade).

The continuation of Trumpington St. is named the King's Parade,
and here, in an open and central position, is *King's College (PI. B,
4), founded in 1440 by Henry VI., and finished by Henry VII. and
Henry VIII. The Great Court is separated from the street by a
modern open-work stone screen. On the W. side are the Library
and the Provost's Lodge, from which a fine lawn slopes to the river.
On the N. side of the principal court is the *' Chapel, the glory of
King's College and of Cambridge, built in 1446-1515, and. one of the finest
Perp. interiors in England (p. liii; open, free, 11-1 and 3-5). It is 290 ft.
long and 85 ft. wide. The beautiful "Stained Glass Windows date from the
16th cent., except that at the W. end, which is a modern imitation of the
others. The fan-vaulted Ceiling, the carved Stalls, and the Organ Screen
all demand notice. The altar-piece is a Descent from the Cross by
Daniele da Volterra. The Tudor portcullis and rose are here, as elsewhere
in Cambridge, freely used in the decoration. Visitors may ascend to the
roof, which commands an extensive view, reaching on the N.E. , to Ely
Cathedral (p. 440); but they are not now admitted to the space between
the stone vaulting and the upper roof of wood.
The other buildings of the college were built in the 18-19th cent, and
have no particular architectural merit. The Fountain was erected in 1877.
The bridge over the Cam affords a fine view. — Among the chief mem-
bers of King's were Archbp. Sumner, Bp. Pearson, Sir Richard Temple,
Sir Robert Walpole, Horace Walpole, and Lord Stratford de Redcliffe.
Visitors who do not intend to walk all along the Backs (p. 432) may
obtain a view of them, at perhaps their prettiest point, by crossing King's
College bridge and entering Clare (see p. 436) from behind.
The Pythagoras School (origin of name unknown), adjoining the Backs,
near St. John's College, is an interesting late-Norman house (p. xli).
A little farther to the left and standing back from the
on ,

Quadrangle, now nearly absorbed by the Uni-

street, is the Schools
versity Library (PI. 17; B, 3; open 10-4, on Sat. 9-1, to visitors
accompanied by a graduate).
The original buildings of this Quadrangle were finished in the 15th
century. Considerable additions were made about 1715, and the present
facade was added in 1754-8. Other additions and alterations have been
carried out during the present cent. ; and most of the rooms formerly
used as Examination Schools have been gradually absorbed by the Library.
The Library, which is surpassed in size in England by the British
Museum and Bodleian alone, contains 450,000 vols, and 3000 MSS. Among
the latter, many of which are of immense value, are the Beza MS. of the
New Testament (6th cent. ; presented by Theodore de Beza in 1581), a
copy on vellum of Wycliffe's Bible, and a Persian MS. of 1388. There
are also numerous incunabula and a folio of sketches by Rembrandt. —
The Public Schools form part of the same block of buildings.
The Library is adjoined by the Senate House (PI. 14), built by
Gibbs in the Corinthian style in 1730. The interior contains sta-
tues of Pitt, by Nollekens the Duke of Somerset, by Rysbrack, etc.
,

28*
436 Route 56. CAMBRIDGE. Trinity.

The graduation ceremonials and other great public functions of the

University are held here. — Opposite the Library is St. Mary's the
Great (PI. 7), the University Church, a Perp. edifice of 1478-1519
(university service at 2 p.m. on Sun.).
We now go down Senate House Passage to Trinity Hall (P1.B,3),
founded in 1350, and principally frequented by students of law.
The Garden Court is picturesque, and the small Fellows' Garden is also
pretty. The book-cases in the Library still retain the iron bars to which
the books used to be chained. Among the alumni of Trinity Hall are
llollinshed, Lord Howard of Effingham, Bishop Gardiner,, Lord Chester-
field, Lord Lytton, Lord Chief Justice Cockburn, and John Sterling.
To the S. of Trinity Hall lies Clare College (PI. B, 3), the sec-
ond oldest in Cambridge, founded in 1326; the present buildings,
which enclose a large court on the bank of the Cam, aie of later date.
At the back is a bridge leading across the Cam (view) to the beau-
tiful "Fellows' Garden and a fine avenue of limes. Archbishop Tillotson
and Cudworth are, perhaps, the two most eminent names associated with Clare.
Opposite Clare is the handsome new W. facade of the Schools
Quadrangle (comp. p. 435) incorporating and completing the old
,

King's College Gateway. To the left of the gateway is the Geo-

logical Museum (open 10-4), containing a very extensive collection
of fossils (Plesiosaurus , a skeleton of the Irish elk, etc.).
We now return to Senate House Passage and pass through the
picturesque Gate of Honour into Gonville and Caius College
(PI. B, 3) ,shortly styled Caius ('Keys') , founded in 1348 by
Edmund de Gonville, and refounded in 1558 by the erudite Dr.
Caius , body-physician to Queen Mary. The principal entrance
(modern) is at the corner of Senate House Passage and King's Parade.
The Cuius Court, which we enter by the Gate of Honour, communi-
cates with the first or main court by the Gale of Virtue, and is the work
of Dr. Caius. The inner or Gonville Court, to the right, was refaced last
century. Among former students of Caius are Harvey (discoverer of the
circulation of the blood), Jeremy Taylor, Judge Jefl'reys, and Lord Chan-
cellor Thurlow. This college is affected by medical students.
InTrinity St. opposite Caius College, stands St. Michael's Church
—
,

(PI. 9 B, 3), a Dec. building restored by Scott.

; To the left,
beyond Caius, is the beautiful King's Gateway of *Trinity College
(PI. B, 3), the largest college in England, formed by Henry VIII.
in 1546 by the amalgamation of several earlier foundations.
The lower part of the King's Gateway dates from the time of Ed-
ward IV., and the upper from that of Henry VIII., with a statue of whom it
is adorned. On the inner face are figures of James I., Queen Anne of Den-
mark, and Charles I. The "Great Court, which is not quite rectangular, is
325-345 ft. long and 255-285 ft. wide. On the N. side is the Chapel (open
11-12 and 2-3), built in the Tudor period; it contains good carved wood-
work and numerous statues and busts, the finest of which is that of "Sir
Isaac Newton by Roubiliae. The windows are modern. To the W. of
the chapel is King Edward's Tower, with a statue of Edward III. The
passage below this tower leads to the smaller Fellows' Garden. On the
W. side of the court is the Hall, a handsome room, containing portraits
of Newton, Bacon, Dryden, and other eminent alumni, and a fine portrait
of the Duke of Gloucester (aged six) by Reynolds. To the S. of the Hall
are the two Combination Rooms, corresponding to the Common Rooms at
Oxford, and below these is the huge Kitchen, in which dinner is cooked
 St. John's College. CAMBRIDGE. 56. Route. 437

daily for 700 persons. —

The passage between the hall and the kitchen
leads into the Cloister or Neville's Court, surrounded on three sides by
corered arcades. On the W. side is the "Library, built by Wren in 1676
(open 2-3) and containing 80,000 books and 2000 MSS. The interior is
admirably fitted up, and the oaken book-cases are adorned with carvings
by Gibbons. At the S. end is a fine 'Statue of Lord Byron by Thor~
valdsen, and round the rooms are busts of other famous members of the
college. The MSS. of several of Milton's poems are exhibited in a glass-
case. The Vestibule (entr. in the N.W. corner of the court) contains Ro-
man antiquities found in England. —
To the S. of the Cloister Court is
the New or King's Court, the W. gateway of which leads to a bridge over
the Cam ("View of the Backs and of St. John's) and to a stately "Avenue
of Limes. —
On the other side of Trinity St. , opposite the Entrance
Gateway, are two other small courts belonging to Trinity, built by Dr. Whew-
ell (d. 1862) and known as the Master's Courts.
Bentley and Whewell were Masters of Trinity, and the long list of its
famous members includes the names of Newton, Bacon, Porson, Pearson,
Dryden, Cowley, Herbert, Macaulay, Byron, Thackeray, and Tennyson.
The first-floor rooms on the N. side of the King's Gateway were Newton's,
and those below were Thackeray's. The ground-floor rooms next the chapel
were occupied by Macaulay, and Byron had rooms on the N. side of the
Cloister Court (first floor, central staircase). Tennyson lived out of college.
To the N. Trinity is adjoined by *St. John's College (PI. B, 2), the
second in size of the Cambridge colleges, founded in 1511 by Lady
Margaret Beaufort , mother of Henry VII. It, however, represents
a foundation even earlier than that of Peterhouse, having succeeded
St. John's Hospital, established on this site in the 12th century.
St. John's consists of four courts. We enter the First Court by a
handsome Gateway, with a statue of St. John. On the N. is the "Chapel,
a modern Dec. building by Scott (12-1 and 2-3). The interior is elaborately
adorned with carving and coloured marbles, and contains several monu-
ments removed from the old chapel. The "Hall, on the W. side of this
court, is a long oak-panelled room, with a fine roof and numerous por-
traits, including Wordsworth and Prof. Palmer (in Arabic costume; comp.
p. 20). —
The 'Second Court (1595-1620), the brick of which has assumed
a beautiful plum-red hue, has been pronounced by Mr. Ruskin the most
perfect in the University. The long Combination Room is on the N. side,
where also is a doorway leading to the gardens of the Master's Lodge.
The passage at the N.W. angle of this court leads to the Chapel Court.
— The Library which is on the S. side of the Third Court, con-
(12-3),
tains over 35,000 printed books (many incunabula) and 400 MSS; among
its treasures are a vellum copy of Coverdale's Bible and an Irish Psalter.
From the W. side of this court a covered bridge (Bridge of Sighs) leads
across the river to the New Court , which is of stone. —
From either
the third or the fourth court we may enter the well-kept "College Grounds.
The Fellows' Garden is planted with trees in the form of a cathedral. —
The roll of fame at St. John's, almost as long as that of Trinity, comprises
the names of Roger Ascham, Lord Burleigh, Ben Jonson, Abp. Sandys, Gil-
bert, Stillingfleet, Herrick, Lord Strafford, Lord Falkland, Matthew Prior,
Bentley, Erasmus Darwin, Kirke White, Henry Martyn, Rowland Hill,
Home Tooke, Wordsworth, William Wilberforce, and Lord Palmerston.
The red building opposite St. John's, in English Gothic style,
contains the new Divinity and Literary Schools, opened in 1879.
Adjacent is All Saints Memorial Cross, marking tbe site of Old All
Saints Church, in the graveyard of which Kirke White was buried.
Turning to the left, we soon reach Bridge St. and the *Eound
Church (St. Sepulchre's; PI. 10), an early -Norman building of
1101 the oldest of the four extant round churches of England
,
438 Route 56. CAMBRIDGE. Jesus College.

(comp. pp. 252, 442 keys at 58 Park St.).

; —
Behind the Round
Church is the Union (see p. 226), containing a fine dehating-hall,
reading, writing, and smoking rooms, and a library of 20,000 vols.
Following Bridge St. towards the left, we pass St. Clement's
Church (PI. 6; B, 2) and cross a bridge affording a view of
St. John's College. To the right, beyond the bridge, is Magdalene
College (PI. B, 1, 2; pron. Maudlin), founded in 1542 on the site
of a Benedictine hostel or school for monks.
The chief interest of thi8 college is the 'Pepysian Building in the
Second Court. It contains the valuable library bequeathed by Samuel Pepys,
including the cypher MS. of his famous 'Diary', the key to which was
discovered by Lord Grenville in 1825 (visitors not admitted unless accom-
panied by a fellow). Many of the other MSS. and early printed works are
also of great interest.— Among the most distinguished members of Magda-
lene are Archbishops Grindal , Ussher, and Cranmer, and Samuel Pepys.
Beyond Magdalene are the churches of St. Giles (PI. B, 1) and St. Peter
(PI. A, 1). A little farther on are the County Court (PI. 12; A, 1) and
County Gaol, adjoining the Castle Mound, a singular artificial elevation,
on which stood the keep, the only relic of the castle founded by William
the Conqueror. — About 3 /t M. to the W. is the University Observatory.
We may now return by Bridge St. , passing St. Sepulchre's,
and turning to the left into Jesus Lane, which leads to '"Jesus Col-
lege (PI. D, 2) , founded in 1497 on the site of a Benedictine
nunnery. [Or we may follow Chesterton Lane, to the right, beyond
Magdalene, cross the Cam, not far from the University Boat Houses
(p. 432), and take the footpath across Jesus Oreen to the grounds
of Jesus College, which in this case we enter from the back.]
This picturesque and extensive college is surrounded on all sides by
its own "Grounds. The most interesting of its buildings is the "Chapel
(open 11-12 and 3-4), on the S. side of the second or Cloister Court, which
was originally the church of the nunnery, though now shorn of two-thirds
of its nave. The transepts contain some late-Norman work; the rest of
the building is E.E., with Perp. additions. The stained-glass windows
in the transepts are by Morris and Burne Jones. Among eminent alumni
are Sir Thomas Elyot, Cranmer, Sterne, and Coleridge.
By turning to the left on leaving Jesus College we soon reach Mid-
summer Common, to the N. of which, on the Cam, are the University Boat-
Houses. — About 3 /4 M. to the E., on the road to Newmarket, are the ruins
of Barnwell Abbey, dating from the E.E. period.
From Jesus College, opposite which is the modern church of
we retrace our steps to the end of Jesus Lane and turn
All Saints,
Sidney Sussex College (PI. C, 3), which we thus reach,
to the left.
was founded by the Countess of Sussex, daughter of Sir William
Sidney, in 1596, on the site of a suppressed Franciscan monastery.
The Library contains a bust of Oliver Cromwell, who was a student
here; and there is an excellent contemporary portrait of him, in crayon,
in the Master's Lodge. The pleasant Gardens are reached from the N.W.
corner of the left court. Thomas Fuller was also a student at this college.
Sidney St. ends at Market Stkeet (PI. C, 3) and Holy Trinity
Church (PI. 11), with its lofty Dec. spire. Farther on, Hobson
Street, named after the carrier (p. 433), diverges to the left. To the
right is St. Andrew's Church (PI. 3; C, 3), opposite the entrance to
Christ's College (PI. C, 3), founded in 1506 by Margaret, Countess
 New Museums. CAMBRIDGE. 56. Route. 439

of Richmond (p. 437), mother of Henry VII., but completely moder-

nized in the 18th century. The Tudor arms are ahove the gateway.
The buildings of this college are uninteresting, but the "Gardens are
among the prettiest in Cambridge. They contain a mulberry-tree said to
have been planted by Milton in 1632. The poet's rooms were on the left
(N.) side of the main court, on the first floor of the staircase next the
entrance to the chapel. The college possesses some very fine old plate.
Besides Milton, it has on its books the names of Sir Philip Sidney, Leland
(the antiquary), Hugh Latimer, Cudworth, Francis Quarles, Paley, and
Charles Darwin. Portraits of several of these hang in the Hall.
Farther on in the same street, also to the left, is Emmanuel
College (PI. D, 4), founded by Sir Walter Mildmay in 1584, and
intended for the maintenance of Puritanical principles. Only a
small part of the original buildings remain.
The Chapel, entered from the cloister opposite the entrance, was built
by Sir Christopher Wren in 1678-88, and contains a fine altar-piece by
Amiconi. Above the cloister is a Picture Gallery, containing some good
portraits. The Library possesses a few rare MSS., and the college also
boasts of a silver goblet, the 'Founder's Cup', ascribed to Benvenuto Cellini.
The Gardens contain a large pond. Bishop Hall, Archbishop Sancroft,
John Harvard (founder of Harvard College), Cudworth, Sir William Temple,
and also several of the Pilgrim Fathers were students of Emmanuel.
Emmanuel faces the end of Downing St., in which, to the right,
is the group of buildings belonging to the scientific and medical
department of the University, generally known as the New Museums
(PI. 16; 0, 4), and comprising laboratories, lecture -rooms, and
collections of various kinds. Among the most prominent members
of the group are the admirably equipped Cavendish Laboratory,
abutting on Free School Lane, behind St. Benet's Church, and
the new Chemical Laboratory, in Pembroke St. (PL C, 4). The —
iron gate in Downing Street, opposite the Anatomical Museum
(PI. 2; C, 4), opens on a pleasant shady avenue, leading to (Y4M.)
Downing College (PI. D, 5) which was founded by Sir George
,

Downing in 1800 and consists of a group of uninteresting modern

buildings in a fine park. From Downing College we may now return
through Fitzwilliam St. (PI. C, 5) to Trumpington St. (p. 433).
In Hills Road, beyond the Railway Bridge (beyond PI. D, 6),
is Cavendish College, founded in 1873 to afford a university edu-
cation at an earlier age and at a smaller cost than at the ordinary
colleges. It ranks in the University as a public hostel.
On the Huntingdon Road (beyond PI. A, 1), 2 M. to the N.W. of the
centre of the town, is Girton College, established in 1869 for the higher
education of women. Women who have fulfilled the requisite conditions
as to residence (at Newnham or Girton), etc., incumbent upon members of
the University are now admitted to the Previous Examination and the Tri-
poses, but not to the examinations for the ordinary degree (comp. p. 225).
On the Trumpington Road, to the S., are the Botanic Gardens.
The immediate environs of Cambridge have little claim on the tra-
veller's attention, but no one should omit a visit to Ely (p. 440), which is
reached by railway in V3-V2 hr. — About 2'/j M. to the S.W. of Cambridge
lies the village of Grantchester, which is believed by some authorities to
be the real representative of Grantabrycge (p. 432). On the river here is
'Byron's Pool', 40 ft. deep. Madingley and Cherry Einton are other favourite
points for the 'constitutionals' of university men.
From Cambridge to Huntingdon, see p. 363,
440

57. From Cambridge to Ely and Hunstanton.

Great Eastern Railway to (14'/a M.) Ely in 20-26 min. (2s. 9<i, 2s. id..
Is. 3d.); to (56 M.) Hunstanton in 2-2'/2 hrs. (10s. 6d., 8s., 4s. 8>/2 d.).
Cambridge, see R. 56. As we leave the town we have a view, to
the left, of the Cam, -alive in term-time with the College Eights. The
line traverses the unattractive Fen District. —
5'/2 M. Waterbeach.
14^2 M. Ely (Lamb, well spoken of; Bell; Angel, at the station;
Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), a small city with 8200 inhab., is situated
on a slight eminence rising above the fens and formerly surrounded
by water. Its name is said to be taken from the eels in the river. The
only attraction is the cathedral, which is Y2 M. from the station.
The Isle of Ely is memorable as the last stronghold of the Saxons,
who maintained themselves here, under the leadership of Hereward, the 'Last
of the English', from 1066 to 1071.
As we approach the cathedral we pass the Great Gateway of the
old monastery, now used by the King's School.
The *Cathedral of Ely, 'one of the very largest and most im-
posing, otic of the most individual, and distinctly the most varied,
in England' (Mrs. Van Rensselaer), occupies the site of an abbey
founded here by St. Etheldreda in 673. The chief internal di-
mensions are length 520 ft., breadth 77 ft., length of transepts
:

1781/2 it., height of nave 62 ft., height of choir 70 ft. The doors
are open 9-1 and 2-6 (2-4 in winter) adm. to the choir 6d., to the
;

W. tower &d. Daily services at 8.30 and 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

The existing building was begun in 1083 by the first Norman abbot;
and the E. half at least was complete in its original form when the
see of Ely was created in 1109. The W. part of the nave, including the
W. Tower, was finished about 1180, and the Galilee, or W. Porch, was
added before 1215. Bishop Northwold (1229-54) pulled down the E. end
of the church and added the present Presbytery. The Central Tower,
which belonged to the original church, fell in 1322, and advantage was
taken of this opportunity to construct the beautiful Dee. Octagon (1322-8).
The Lady Chapel dates from 1321-49, and the Perp. Chantries adjoining
the retro-choir were added between 1486 and 1550. A new spire was
erected on the W. tower at the end of the 14th cent., the weight of which
may have caused the collapse of the N.W. transept, though some authorities
think the latter was never finished. The whole building has been restored
since 1847 under the superintendence of Sir G. G. Scott.
Exterior. The most striking feature is the castellated W. Tower, which
is unlike any other cathedral-tower in England, and to some extent sug-
gests military rather than ecclesiastical architecture. The greater part of
it is Transition Norman (1174-89), but the octagonal top and turrets were
added in the Decorated period. The want of its N. wing destroys the
symmetry of the W. front (comp. above). The effect of the Central Oc-
tagon (see p. xlix) is good from all points of view. The E. End is fine E.E.
Interior. We enter by the E.E. 'Galilee, or W. Porch, and find our-
selves below the W. Tower. To the right is the S.W. Tkansept (Transition
Norman), the Baptistery, with the apsidal chapel of St. Catharine, opening
from its E. aisle. The N.W. Transept is wanting (see above).
The 'Nave (208 ft. long) is a fine specimen of the late-Norman style.
The roof, originally flat, was raised to the present angle on the con-
struction of the Octagon, and has been painted by Mr. L'Estrange and Mr.
Gambier Parry (comp. p. 172). In the S. aisle, near the Prior's Doorway,
is a Saxon Cross, in memory of Ovinus, Etheldreda's steward. The S. Door-
way, at the E. end of this aisle, was originally the monks' entrance from
the cloisters. The stained glass is modern.
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ELY CATHEDRAL
 ELY. 57 Route. 441
The nave ends at the "Octagon, a unique and very beautiful fea-
ture of Ely Cathedral. It is due to the genius of Alan de Walsingham
(1322-28), who seems to have heen the first to conceive the possibility
of such a noble substitute as this for the usual narrow and lofty opening
of a central tower. The lantern above is a clever piece of timber-work,
142 ft. above the flooring. The polychrome decoration is by Mr. Gambier
Parry, and the stained-glass windows are also modern. The roof forms
'the only Gothic dome in existence'. —
The Great Transepts, to the N.
and S. of the Octagon, contain the only remains of the earliest Norman
church (see p. 440), mainly on the ground-floor. The E. aisle of the 8.
arm is occupied by the Chapter Library.
The "Choir is separated from the Octagon by a modern oaken screen.
The E. half of the choir is the older, dating from 1252 (E.E.), while the
three elaborate W. bays are a century later (Dec). The upper row of
stalls dates from the 14th cent., but the carved panels and the lower
stalls are modern, as are also the reredos, altar, and stained glass. There
is no Episcopal Throne, the bishop occupying the stall usually assigned
to the dean. Amongthe most interesting monuments are those of Bishops
de Luda (1290-98), Barnet (1366-73), Northuold (1229-54), Redman (1501-6),
and Botham (1316-37). At the E. end of the N. aisle is the Chantry of
Bishop Alcock (1486-1500), founder of Jesus College, Cambridge (p. 438);
and at the E. end of the S. aisle is that of Bishop West (1515-34). In the
S. aisle is the monument of Professor Selmyn (d. 1873) and in the retro-
choir that of Card, de Luxembourg (1431-43). On the floor of the S. aisle
is a curious piece of ancient (early -Norman ?) sculpture.
From the N.E. angle of the N. Transept we enter the Lady Chapel,
an elaborate specimen of the Dec. style (1321-49), now used as the parish-
church of Holy Trinity. —
Extensive view from the top of the W. Tower.
— The remains of the Cloisters to the S. of the nave, are scanty.
,

The remains of the Monastic Buildings, now in great part occupied

as private dwellings, include the Ouesten Ball (now the Deanery), the
Prions Lodge (with a Norman crypt), Prior Crawderis Chapel, and part of
the late-Norman Infirmary. The Bishop's Palace, to the W. of the Cathe-
dral, dates from the 15-16th centuries.
The cathedral-precincts are adj oined by a pleasant, well-wooded Park.
From Ely to Thetford and Norwich, 54 M., railway in 1% hr. (fares
8». 8d., 7s. 3d., is. 4'/2<i.). Beyond (16 M.) Brandon, which gives name
to the Dukes of Hamilton and Brandon, the line traverses heath and plan-
tations offir. —23 M. Thetford (Bell), an ancient town with 4000 inhab.,
was formerly the seat of the kings and bishops of E. Anglia. The Castle
Bill, a huge artificial mound, 100 ft. high and 1000 ft. round, Is supposed
to be a Koman or British fortification. There are also scanty ruins of a
Priory. Thomas Paine, author of 'The Age of Reason', was born at Thet-
ford in 1737. —From (27>/2 M.) Roudham a line run3 N. to Swaffham (with
a picturesque Tuined priory), passing Watton, near which is Wayland Wood,
said to be the scene of the 'Babes in the Wood'. — 38 M. Attleborough
(Eoyal) has an interesting church. —
At (43'/s M.) Wymondham (King's
Bead) is one of the finest churches in Norfolk, belonging to an old Priory.
A line runs hence to Dereham (King's Arms) , the fine church of which
contains the tomb of the poet Cowper (d. 1800). From Dereham lines run
to Fakenham (p. 447) and Swaffham (see above). — 54 M. Norwich, see p. 444?
Branch-lines also run from Ely to Newmarket (p. 449) and to March
(for Wisbech, Spalding, Lincoln, Doncaster, Peterborough, etc.).

As the train leaves Ely we see the cathedral to the left. 41 M. —

Lynn or King's Lynn (Qlobe; Crown; Cozen's Temperance), an an-
cient town with 18,500 inhab., lies near the month of the Ouse,
and connected with the sea by a waterway called the King's Cut.
is
Among the chief points of interest are St. Margaret's Church (1091-
1119; partly restored), containing two of the largest and finest
brasses in England ; the Bed Mount Chapel (Perp.) , supposed to
 ;

442 Route 56'. CHELMSFORD. From London

have been a wayside chapel for pilgrims to Walsingham; the

Elizabethan Guildhall; and the Grey friars' Tower.
From Lynn branch-lines run W. to Spalding (p. 429) and E. to Swaff-
ham and Dereham (see p. 441). The former passes (6^2 M.) Terrington and
(S'/s M.) Walpole St. Peter's, both with fine Perp. churches. — From Lynn
to Fakenham and Norwich, see p. 447.
44 M. North Wootton is the station for (13/4 M.) * Castle Rising,
an important mediaeval fortress, with a Norman keep, surrounded
by earthworks of Roman or British origin. The interesting Church
dates from the 12th cent. (late-Norman). — About 2'/2 M. to the
E. of (47 M.) Wolferton is Sandringham Hall, the country-house of
the Prince of Wales. The 'Norwich Gates', at the main entrance of
theParfc (open in the absence of the family), are fine specimens of
modern ornamental iron-work. — 491/2 M. Dersingham (Alexandra)
and (51 M.) Snettisham (Royal) have interesting churches. —
54 M.
Heacham is the junction of a line to Wells (see below).
56 M. Hunstanton St. Edmunds (Sandringham ; Golden Lion
Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms) is a rising watering-place ,with good
bathing, a pier, and a promenade. Near Old Hunstanton (L'Estrange
Arms), which lies 1 M. to the N., is Hunstanton Hall, which has
been in the possession of the L'Estrange family for 800 years. The
Church of Old Hunstanton is also interesting.
From Hunstanton to Wells, 20 M., railway in i-l'/2 hr. (fares 3*.
iid., 3s., is. 872<Z.). The train diverges at (2 M.) Heacham (see above) from
the Cambridge line. Near (18 M.) Holkham (Victoria) is Holkham Park,
the seat of the Ear] of Leicester. — 20 M. Wells (Globe; Crown) is a small
seaport, of little interest to the tourist. From Wells to Fakenham, see p. 447.

58. From London to Colchester, Ipswich, and Norwich.

Great Eastern Railway to (52 M.) Colchester in I1/4-2V4 hrs. (fares
9s. 9<Z., 7s. Gd., is. 4V2<*.); to (69 M.) Ipswich in 1V2-3 hrs. (fares 13s., 9s.
iOd. , 5«. 9V2<1); to (114 M.) Norwich in 3-4hrs. (fares 20s. Gd., 15s. 9d.,
—
9s. 5'/2<i.). Norwich may also be reached via. Cambridge and Ely in
3'/2-5hrs. (comp. Rlt. 55,56; fares as above).
The run from Liverpool Street Station to (12 /2 M.) Romford
l

(White Hart), a small town (9000 inhab.) noted for its ale, is
uninteresting. Farther on, the district is wooded and at places
pretty. 18 M. Brentwood. 21 M. Shenfield is the junction of lines
to Wickford and Southend (p. 450) and to Woodham Ferris, South-
minster, Burnham, and Maldon. —
30 M. Chelmsford ('Saracen's
Head), with 10,000 inhab., is the county-town of Essex. The
church contains a curious double arch (N. wall of chancel). From —
(39 M.) Witham lines diverge to Braintree, Dunmow, and Bishop's
Stortford (see p. 431) and to Maldon (see above). —
42 M. Kel-
—
,

vedon, the birthplace of Spurgeon. From (47 M.) Mark's Tey

branch -lines run to Haverhill and Bury St. Edmunds (p. 450).
About 2'/2 M. from Halstead, on the line to Haverhill, is Little Maple-
stead, with one of the four round, churches of England (comp. pp. 252, 437).
At (9^ M.) Castle Bedingham is a fine Norman castle.
On the line to Bury St. Edmunds we pass (12 M.) Sudbury (Rose &
Crown), a small town with three fine churches (the birthplace of Gains-
borough, 1727-88), and (15 M.) Long Melford.
 to Norwich. COLCHESTER. 58. Route. 443

52 M. Colchester (The Cups; George; Red Lion; Rail. Rfrnt.

Rooms), an ancient place on the Colne, with 28,400 inhab., is the
largest town in Essex and contains many interesting remains.
Colchester (A. S. Colneceatter) has been identified with the Roman
Camulodunnm, which had already been a place of importance with the
Britons, and was made the first Roman colony in the island (A.D. 60).
Two years later it was destroyed by the Iceni, but after the defeat of
Boadicea it was rebuilt and surrounded with walls. Under the Normans
it was also an important stronghold, as is evidenced by its castle, which
was captured by Lewis the Dauphin in 1218 and by General Fairfax in
1648. Comp. 'Colchester', by Rev. E. L. Cutts (Historic Towns Series ; 1888).
— Colchester oysters have long been famous.
The station on the main line is 1 M. from the town, which we
may reach either by road or by a loop-line to St. Botolph's Station.
In the former case we pass through the Soman Walls, the line of
which (2 M.), partly concealed by houses, is more complete than that
of any other Roman city-walls in England.
To see the wall we should turn to the right at the cattle-market and
follow it along the W. side, where stands the ruined Balcon, the prin-
cipal Roman bastion , also called King CoWs Castle, from an association
of Colchester with that hero of nursery rhyme. In this case we may
make our way to the top of the High St. via the lofty Water Tower, which
is the most conspicuous feature in Colchester.
The *Castle, the largest Norman keep in England, probably
erected by the Conqueror, stands near the foot of the High St. (left;
open free ; small gratuity for seeing parts not generally open).
The keep measures 168 ft. by 126 ft. Its walls vary in thickness from
30ft. to lift. We enter by the S. side, and visit the Vaults and Dungeons.
Fine view from the top of the walls. The herring-bone work of Roman
tiles is striking. The Chapel is fitted up as a Museum (open 10-6), with
interesting Roman antiquities found in or near Colchester.
From the foot of the St. we follow Queen St. and St.
High
Botolph reach St. Botolph's Priory, which stands
St. to the right to
a little to the left of the latter street , in the enclosure of St. Bo-
tolph's Church. The ruins are those of the priory church and are
in the Norman style (ca. 1103); as in the castle, Roman bricks
have been freely used. By turning to the right at the end of St.
Botolph's Street we reach St. John's Green, with St. John's Abbey
Oate (ca. 1500), the only relic of a large Benedictine monastery. —
The pre-Norman tower of Holy Trinity Church is partly constructed
of Roman bricks.
At Ltxden, 1 M. to the W. of Colchester, are remains of Roman en-
trenchments and a public park, opened in 1890; 3/t M. farther on is 'King
Cole's Kitchen' supposed to have been the Roman amphitheatre.
,

From Colchester a branch - railway runs to (19 M.) Clacton - on - Sea

(Royal; Osborne) and (20 M.) Walton-on-the-Naze (Marine; Clifton), two
frequented watering-places (also reached from London by steamer).

59 Y2 M. Manningtree is the junction of the line to (11 M.)

Harwich (Great Eastern, Pier, at the harbour; Three Cups, in the
town), a small seaport (7500 inhab.), with a good harbour, at the
confluence of the Stour and the Orwell, well known as the starting-
point of the G.E.R. steamers to Rotterdam and Antwerp (p. xrx),
which sail from Parkeston Quay (Great Eastern Hotel), on the N.
 ;

444 Route 58. IPSWICH. From London

side of the estuary. Dovercourt (*01iff; Phoenix), the S. suburb

of Harwich, is a pleasant little sea-bathing place with a chalybeate
spa (adm. id.~). Asteamer plies several times daily up the Orwell to
(1 hr.) Ipswich (see below). —
Beyond Manningtree we see the
estuary of the Stour (right). After passing (63 M.) Bentley (junction
of a line to Hadleigli) we come in sight of the estuary of the Orwell.
69 M. Ipswich. (White Horse, Tavern St., celebrated in 'Pick-
wick',- Crown fy Anchor; Golden Lion; Temperance ; Rail. Rfmt.
Rooms), the county-town of Suffolk with 51,000 inhab., is sit-
,

uated at the head of the estuary of the Orwell. It was the birthplace
of Card. Wolsey (1471-1630), who built a college here (see below).
Prom the station wc proceed through Station Road and Princes
Street (tramway 2d.) to Cornhill , an open space in the centre of
the town, with the Town Hall and Post Office. Tavern St., with
the White Horse Hotel (see above), runs hence to the right (S.),
and parallel to it, on the W., is the Butter Market, containing
Sparrowe's House or the Ancient House (now a bookseller's) , a
picturesque 16th cent, building (1567) with a pargeted facade,
,

in which Charles II. is said to have lain concealed after the battle
of Worcester. On the upper floor is the Public Library (interesting
old room). — From the S. end of the Butter Market we proceed to
the right through Upper Brook St., and then to the left through
Tacket St. and Orwell Place, to Fore Street, containing several
quaint old houses. — Proceeding to the N. (right) from Fore St.,
through Salhouse and Key St., we reach College St., containing
Wolsey s Gateway, the only relic of the above-mentioned college.
In Tower St., leading to the E. from Tavern St., is the rebuilt
church of St. Mary-at-Tower, with a graceful spire 176 ft. high.
By turning to the right at the end of the street we reach *$t. Mar-
garet 's Church (restored). — The Museum, High St. (to the N.B.
of Cornhill), contains local antiquities and fossils (adm. free).
The Upper and Lower Arboretum and Christ's Church Park are three
pleasant parks; the first affords a good view of the town. A visit may
also be paid to the agricultural implement works otRansom.es, Sims, & Head.
A branch-line runs from Ipswich to (16 M.) Felixstowe ("Bath Pier
;

Ordnance), a seaside resort, with golf-links, at the mouth of the Orwell,

opposite Harwich. Circular tickets are issued allowing the journey in ono
direction to be made by water.
From Ipswich to Yarmouth, see R. 59.
81 M. Stowmarket (Fox) has manufactories of gun-cotton and
a church with a curious wooden spire. —
83 M. Haughley Road is
the junction of a line to Bury St. Edmunds (p. 450) and New-
market (p. 449). From (IOOV2 M.) Tivetshall a line diverges to
Bungay, Beccles (p. 448), and Lowestoft (p. 448). Beyond (110 M.)
Swainsthorpe we catch a glimpse, to the right, of the Roman camp
at Caistor. We now enter the valley of the Yare.
114 M. Norwich. — Hotels. "Royal, in the Market Place; Maid's
—
Head, near the Cathedral, R. & A. is. Gd.; Norfolk. Sail. Rfmt. Rooms.
Railway Stations. The Victoria (London, Ipswich) and Thorpe (Lon-
don, Yarmouth, Cromer, Wells) Stations, on the S. side of the city, belong
 to Norwich. NORWICH. 58. Route. 445
to the G. E. R.
the City Station, to the N., is the terminus of the Eastern
;

& Midlands Railway (Melton, Constable, Lynn). — Cab into the town Is.
Steamers summer, see p. 448.
to Yarmouth, daily in
Norwich, the capital of Norfolk and the see of a hishop, is a
city with 90,000 inhab., situated on the Wensum. Most of the
streets are narrow and tortuous, but in addition to the cathedral
and castle they contain many interesting buildings. The town
possesses large manufactories of mustard and starch (Colman's 2000 ;

hands), iron- works, and breweries.

Norwich is generally supposed to be the Caergwent of the Britons,
and the Roman Venta Icenorum, though Caistor (p. 447) is a rival claim-
ant. In 1003 the town was destroyed by the Danes, but it was rebuilt
and furnished with a castle after the Norman Conquest. In 1094 the see
of the bishop of E. Anglia was transferred from Thetford to Norwich. A
fillip to its prosperity was given by the settlement of Flemish weavers here
in the 14th cent., but the woollen industry has now almost deserted it.
The *Cathedral lies towards the E. side of the city l fe M. to
,

the N. of the Thorpe Station. It was begun in 1096, and has pre-
served its original Norman plan more closely than any other
cathedral in England. The Close is entered by St. Ethelberfs Oate
(ca. 1275 ; upper part modern) or by the Erpingham Gate (1420).
The Cathedral is 407 ft. long, 72 ft wide, 178 ft. across the tran-
septs, and 70 (nave) to 8372 ft- (choir) high. Nave open free;
choir, transepts, and cloisters 11-1 and 2-4.30 (Sat. 2-2.45 and
4-6), 6d. ; daily services at 10 a.m. and 5 (Sat. 3) p.m.
The building was begun by the first Bishop of Norwich , Herbert de
Losinga (1091-1119), who completed the choir and transepts and began the
nave (comp. p. xxxvii). The latter was finished by his successor (ca. 1140).
The clerestory of the choir was rebuilt in 1356-69; and the vaulting of the
nave and choir were added in the 15th century. In the same century the W,
Front was altered (large Perp. window inserted) and the spire rebuilt.
The cloisters were begun at the end of the 13th cent, and completed in
1430. The most prominent features are the fine Norman "Tower, surmounted
by a lofty Spire (315 ft.), and the apsidal termination of the Choir. The
best general view is from the S.E.
Interior. The "Nave (252 ft. long) is Norman throughout, except its
fine lierne-vaulting (15th cent.) and the inserted Perp. windows. The
large open arches of the triforium resemble those of Southwell Minster
(p. 430). Two bays in the S. aisle were converted into a chantry by Bishop
Nix (1501-36). In the N. aisle is the monument of Sir Thomas Wyndham.
The stained glass is modern. — The two E. bays of the nave are shut off
from the rest by the Organ Screen and form the Ante-Choie, containing
the Stalls (15th cent.); the misereres are very quaint.
~ The Central
Towee, with its fine open lantern, is Norman, and rests on four tall cir-
cular arches. The curious and interesting carved bosses of the ceiling
throughout the Cathedral deserve attention. — The Tbansepts resemble
the nave in general character, and also have a fine vaulted ceiling (16th
cent.). The N. Transept is adjoined on the E. by a small apsidal Chapel.
In the S. Transept is a monument to Bp. Bathurst (d. 1837), by Chantrey.
In the vestry adjoining this transept is an interesting Altar-piece, ascribed
to an English painter of the 14th century.
The apsidal ending of the *Choie is as effective from within as from
without, and recalls the churches of the Continent more than any other
church of this size in England. The original ground-plan remains unal-
tered, but the clerestory has been rebuilt, the vaulting added, f and the
main arches'changed from Norman to Perpendicular. Among the monu-
ments are those of Bishop Qoldwell (1472-79) and Sir William Boleyn
(d. 1505), grandfather of Anne Boleyn. The stained glass is modern.
446 Route 55. NORWICH.
A fine view of the interior is obtained from the triforium. The choir-
aisles end, on the E., in apsidal chapels: the Jesut Chapel on the N., and
St. Luke's Chapel on the S. A Lady Chapel, forming the E. termination
of the Cathedral , was built at the end of the apse in 1245-57 (E. E.) but
was taken down in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The Beauchamp Chapel,
opening off the S. aisle of the choir, is in the Dec. style. In the N. choir-
aisle is a Gallery, supposed to have been used for exhibiting relics. —
From
the S. Transept we pass through the Prior's Door into the spacious 'Clois-
ters (Dec). In the W. walk are the Monks' Lavatories. The Chapter
House, which stood to the E. of the cloisters, has long since perished.
To the N. of the Cathedral stands the Bishop's Palace, dating in great
part from the beginning of the 14th cent., though since extensively altered
and enlarged. — To the N.W., by the Erpingham Gate, is an old chapel,
now used as a Grammar School. In front of the latter is a Statue of Nelson,
who was a pupil here. — PulVs Ferry, a double arch at the end of the
Lower Close, was formerly the water-gate to the cathedral precincts.
Leaving the Cathedral Close by the Erpingham Gate, we cross
the Tombland obliquely to its S. W. corner, and follow Queen St.
to the Castle, a Norman keep, 70 ft. high, situated on a lofty
mound (adm. 3d.). It was refaced in 1839 and long used as the
county-gaol, hut has now been dismantled and is to be fitted up as
a museum. *View of the town from the top of the keep. —
To the
W. is the Market-place, with the Ouild Hall, the Council Chamber
in which retains its fittings of the Tudor period and contains sou-
venirs of Nelson. In the S.W. corner of the market is *St. Peter
Mancroft (14th cent.), with a fine tower (good interior).
From the market-place Dove Lane and St. John St. lead N. to
the Free Library and the Norfolk Museum (open free on Mon. &
Sat., 10-4) containing fine collections of birds and fossils.
, St. —
Andrew's St. leads hence to the right to St. Andrew's Hall (adm.
3d.) , originally the nave of a Dominican Church (Perp.) and ,

now used for the 'Norwich Triennial Musical Festival', etc.

Many of the other churches of Norwich show interesting specimens
of the characteristic East Anglian 'flush-work', so called because faced
flints are used to fill up flush the interstices of the freestone pattern (comp.
p. li). A few remains of the City Walls still remain, including two or
three of the forty towers with which it was strengthened. Quaint mediaeval
houses abound. — The Roman Catholic Church is a large edifice.
A good view of Norwich is obtained from Mousehold Heath, on the
left bank of the Wensum (to the E.).
About 3 M. to the S. of Norwich is Caistor St. Edmund, with a large
Roman camp, which many antiquarians believe to have been the true
Venta Iceuorum, while Norwich was merely an outlying fortress.
The Dolphin Inn at Heigham, l'/a M. to the N.W. of Norwich, is an
interesting old house, parts of which probably date from the 14th century.
Bishop Hall died here in 1656 and is buried in the parish-church.
From Norwich to Yarmouth, 18'/2 M., railway in 3/* hr. (fares 2s. Gd.,
2s., Is. 6<J.). This line traverses the district of the 'Norfolk Broads'
(see p. 449). The train starts from Thorpe Station (p. 444). 2 M. Wliitlingham,
see below. At (6 M.) Brundall the railway forks, the N. branch running
direct to Yarmouth via. Lingwood and Acle (King's Head; Queen's Head;
a good centre for visiting the Broads, p. 449), while the S. branch makes
a detour via, Reedham (junction for Lowestoft, p. 448). Brundall is the
station for Surlingham Broad. Yarmouth, see p. 448.
From Norwich to Cromer, 24 M., railway (from Thorpe Station) in
1 hr. (fares 4s., 2s. dd., 2s.). At (2 M.) Whitlingham the line diverges
to the N. (left) from that to Yarmouth. 9 M. Wroxham, with the 'Queen
 CROMER. 55. Route. 447
1
of the Norfolk Broads (comp. p. 449), is the junction of a line to Ayls-
ham and Dereham (p. 441). —
13 M. Worstead (New Inn) gave its name
to Worsted yarn, a colony of Flemish weavers having settled here in the
12th century. The church is interesting. —
I6V2 M. North Walsham (Angel),
with a large Perp. church, has also railway communication with Aylsham,
Melton Constahle, and Fakenham (see below), and with Caistor and Yar-
mouth via the Eastern & Midlands line. —
Near (20 M.) Ounton is Ounton
Parle, the seat of Lord Suffield, open to the public on Thurs. during summer.
— 24 M. Cromer (H6tel de Paris; Tucker's; Bed Lion; Bellevue; Bath;
Bond Street Restaurant), the 'English Etretat', perhaps the most charming
spot in East Anglia, is a rising little water-place with admirably firm and
smooth sands and cliffs 60-200 ft. high. The tower of the Perp. Church
is a fine specimen of flint-work (p. li); chancel rebuilt in 18S9. About
1 M. to the N.W. is Cromer Beach, the terminus of a line from Sherringham,
Melton Constable, Fakenham, and Norwich. The Lighthouse, on a height
to the E. O/a hr.), commands a fine view. Adjacent are fine golf-links.
Excursions may be made to Felbrigg Hall&fli.. to the 8.), Mundesley (sea-
views ; 8 M.), the Roman Camp (4 M. ; "View), etc. The heaths round Cro-
mer abound in 'pit-dwellings', which may have been primitive habitations.
From Norwich to Fakenham and Lynn, 50 M., railway in 2-2V« hrs.
(fares 6s. 6d., 3s. 3d.). This line (Midlands & Eastern) starts from the
City Station (p. 445) and crosses the G.E. K. railway at Reepham. 22 M.
Melton Constable, the junction of lines to North Walsham (see above; for
Yarmouth) and to Sherringham ('Hotel) and Cromer Beach (see above). —
From (29'/2 M.) Fakenham (Crown) a branch diverges to the N. for Wal-
singham (with the interesting ruins of an Augustine Priory; open on Wed.,
10-5) and Wells (p. 442). Another runs 8. to Dereham and Wymondham
(comp. p. 441). Near (33 ]/2 M.) Raynham Park Station is Raynham Park,
the seat of the Marquis of Townshend, with a fine collection of portraits
and a master-piece (Belisarius) of Salvator Rosa. —
50 M. Lynn, see p. 441.
From Norwich to Thetford and Ely, see p. 441.

59. From London to Lowestoft and Yarmouth.

Great Eastern Railway to (117VzM.) Lowestoft in 3V4-5'/4 hrs. (fares
22s., 16s. 8<J. , 9s. lOVatf.); to (121»/s M.) Yarmouth in 3'A-5>/4 hrs. (fares
22s. 8d. , 17s. 3d. , 10s. Id.). Cheap excursion-fares in summer.
As (69 M.) Ipswich this route coincides with R. 58. The
far as
first station beyond Ipswich is (72 M.) Westerfleld, where a line
diverges to Felixstowe (p. 444). —
84'/2 M. Wickham Market is
the junction of a line to (6*/2 M.) Framlingham (Crown # Horses),
a small town (2500 inhab.), with a picturesque ruined castle and
a fine chuich containing some interesting monuments (Earl of Sur-
rey, the poet, etc.). —
From (91 M.) Saxmundham a short branch-
line runs to Aldeburgh (White Lion; East Suffolk), a pleasant
seaside resort with a golf-ground. The church contains some good
brasses and a memorial of the poet Crabbe (1754-1832) , a native
of the parish. The town-hall or moot-hall is a half-timbered build-
ing of the 16th century. —
95Y2 M. Darsham (Stradbroke Arms) is
the station for (5>/2 M.) Dunwich (Burne Arms), the earliest seat
of the East Anglian bishopric (founded ca. 630) and once a town
of some importance. Successive encroachments of the sea, however,
have swept away its palaces and churches , and it is now a small
village. —
101 M. Halesworth is the junction of a line to (3 M.)
Southwold (Centre Cliff; *Swan), another little watering-place,
448 Route 59. YARMOUTH.
with a fine Perp. church, containing an interesting rood-screen.
Excursions may be made to Dunwich (see above), Coverhithe,
Walberswiek, and Blythburgh all -with interesting churches.
,
—
109 Beceles (King's Head) is the junction for Bungay and Tivets-
hall (p. 444) on the W., and for (8'/2 M.) Lowestoft on the E.
Lowestoft ("Royal; Harbour; Suffolk; Royal Oak, at Kirkley) is a
fashionable sea-bathing resort with 20,000 inhabitants. The old town, to
the N. of the harbour, is an important fishing-station and contains a fine
Perp. Church. The new town to the S., with its long Esplanade, is the
watering-place proper. The S. Pier (adm. id.) is an agreeable promenade.
Among the favourite resorts is (2 M.) Oulton Broad ( Wherry Hotel; boats
and stores from James Sullen), which affords amusement for boating and
fishing parties, and may be reached by railway. Somerleylon Hall, the
imposing residence of Sir Savile Crossley , 6 M. to the N.W., has a fine
park to which visitors are admitted on Wednesday.
115 M. St. Olave's is the junction of lines to Lowestoft (see
above) and Reedham (p. 446).
121 '/2 M. Yarmouth. —
Hotels. "Victoria, "Royal, Bath, Norfolk,
Marine Parade; "Queen's, at the Britannia Pier, R. & A. 4s. Qd , D. 3«. 6d.;
Stah, an Elizabethan house, on the Quay; Angel, Market-place.
Railway Stations. South Town Station, on the left bank of the Yare
(fur London, Lowestoft, Cromer, Lynn, etc.); Vauxhall Station, on the N.
side of Breydon Water (for Norwich, etc.) ; Beach Station, near the N. end
of the town (for North Walsham and Lynn).
Tramway from the South Station to Oorleston (Tramway Hotel).
Steamers ply weekly to Hull and Newcastle, and in summer to London,
Cromer, and Lowestoft. Small steamers also ply daily in summer up the
Yare to Norwich and up the Bure to Wroxham (p. 446), affording a glimpse
at the Broads (p. 449). Circular tickets are issued allowing the journey
in one direction to be made by railway.

Yarmouth, the most important town and port on the E. Anglian

coast, is situated at the mouth of the Yare and contains about
45,000 inhabitants. It is also a very popular watering-place, and
in the height of summer is flooded almost daily with excursionists.
Its attractions include firm and extensive sands for bathers a ,

marine parade three piers and an aquarium (theatrical perfor-

, ,

mances, etc.). Great Yarmouth, the older part of the town, adjoin-
ing the river, contains numerous picturesque 'rows' or lanes, only
3-6 ft. wide. As Dickens puts it: 'Great Yarmouth is one vast
gridiron, of which the bars are represented by the rows'. The church
of St. Nicholas, the largest parish-church in England (230 ft. long,
112ft. wide; area 23,265 sq. ft.), was originally founded in 1119,
but the oldest part now standing is the Transitional nave (1190).
Its library contains some interesting old books the modern pulpit
;

is handsome. In the chancel is a curious old Revolving Book Desk.

Fine view from the tower. The old *Tolhouse or Oaol (adm. 2d.),
near the N. end of Middlegate St., is an interesting building of the
14th cent. now containing a public library (fine old hall). The
,

Town Hall, on the South Quay, not far from the Tolhouse, is a
large modern building. No. 4, South Quay, an Elizabethan house
with a modern front is said to have been the place in which the
,

death of Charles I. was decided upon by Cromwell's supporters.

 NEWMARKET. 59. Route 449

Parts of the old Town Walls are still standing, including the 8.E.
and Blaekfriars' Towers. The Nelson Column (adm. 6d.) 144 ft. ,

high , in the South Denes , commands a good view. The Herring

Fishery is at its height in autumn, when 'Yarmouth Bloaters' may
be seen in all stages of preparation. In 1887 about 250 million
herrings were landed here. The Fish Wharf is near the mouth
of the river. Off the coast are numerous sandbanks, between which
and the land are Yarmouth Roads.
The district to the W. of Yarmouth is par excellence the country of
the Norfolk Broads, large lagoons, generally connected with each other
by sluggish rivers, and alternating with vast expanses of marsh and reed.
There are in all 40-50 Broads, varying in size from 2 to 500 acres (in all
5001) acres), and connected by the Bure, the Yare, and the Waveney (in all
200 M. of navigable river), which all find their way into Breydon Water
(see below). Most of them are on the Bure and its tributaries. The district
affords admirable opportunities for boating, angling, and wild-fowl shooting.
River-yachts for excursions on the Broads may be hired at Yarmouth,
Norwich, Wroxham, or Oulton, at rates varying from bl. to iOl. a week,
according to the size and the number of the crew. The tourist who merely
wishes to see the scenery may take a passage in one of the so-called
Wherries, or trading barges, plying between Norwich and other inland
places and the coast. Comp. 'Norfolk Broads and Rivers', by 0. C. Davies
(illus. ; 1883)
, and the same writer's 'Handbook to the Rivers and Broads
of Norfolk and Suffolk' (new ed., 1887).
The following round trip from Norwich, lasting 10-14 days, will in-
clude a visit to most of the principal Broads. — From Norwich to Reedham
(p. 446) and Yarmouth (p. 448) by the Yare including Surlingham and
,

Rockland Broads; from Yarmouth to Acle (p. 446), Wroxham (p. 446), and
Coltishall (rail, stat.) by the Bure, visiting South Walsham , Ranworth,
Hoveton, Wroxham, and Belaugh Broads; back by the Bure to the mouth
of the Ant (near which are the ruins of St. BeneVs Abbey) , 10 M. below
Wroxham, and up this stream to Barton and Stalham Broads; then via
the Thwrne to Beigham Bridge, to visit ffeigham Sounds, Hickling and
Somerton Broads, and Horsey Mere (these for light-draught boats only);
from Heigham Bridge back to Yarmouth via Acle. The chief Broads not
included in this excursion are Oulton (p. 448); Ormesby, Filby, and Rollesby,
easily reached by railway from Yarmouth to (5 M.) Ormesby; and Fritton
Decoy, with its water-fowl decoys, 1 M. from Baddiscoe, on the railway
from Yarmouth to Lowestoft. Breydon Water, see below.
Among points of interest in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth are (2 M.)
Oorleston (tramway, see p. 448); Burgh Castle (4-5 M. to the S.W.) , a
well-preserved Roman fortification at the head of Breydon Water (estuary
of the Yare); Caistor Castle (4 M.; to the N.); and Lowestoft (p. 448;
9 M.) , by excursion-brake (Is. 6d.), railway, or steamer.
Fbom Yarmouth to North Walsham by Eastern & Midlands Railway,
29 M., in 'A-l'A hr. (fares 4«., 2s. 6d., 2s.). 3i/z M. Caistor (see above);
6'/2 M. Ormesby (see above) ; 22 M. Stalham (see above). — North Walsham,
and thence to Cromer or Melton Constable, see p. 447.
From Yarmouth to Norwich, see p. 446.

60. From Cambridge to Newmarket and Bury

St. Edmnnds.
Gbeat Eastern Railway to (14 M.) Newmcirlet in V2 br. (2s. 7d., 2s., Is.
Bury St. Edmunds in M1/4 hr. (5s. id., 4s. Id., 2s. 4<J.).
2d.); to (28 M.)
Cambridge, see p. 432. The country traversed is flat. Near New-
market we cross a singular earthwork known as the Devil's Dyke.
14 M. Newmarket (Rutland Arms; White Hart), a small town
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 29
450 Route 60. BURY ST. EDMUNDS.
with 6000 inhab., is the metropolis of horse - racing. No fewer
than seven race-meetings take place yearly, and about 400 race-
horses are constantly in training here to meet their engagements.
The most important meetings are the Graven at Easter and the
Houghton at the end of October. Beds and living rise to famine prices
during the races and are sometimes almost unprocurable. The races are
run at different parts of Newmarket Heath (comp. Baedeker's London). At
other seasons the morning gallops of the 'youngsters' in training are a
perennial source of interest to the betting world.
The old Palace in the High St.,' built by Charles II., who was a con-
stant patron of Newmarket Races is now occupied by the Duke of Rut-
,

land. The houses of 'Old Q' (the Duke of Queensberry) Nell Gwynne,,

and various other quondam visitors are also shown.

28 M. Bury St. Edmunds (Angel; Suffolk; Bell), a bright and
interesting little town with 16,000 inhab., first came into notice as
the burial-place of St. Edmund, the last King of East Anglia,
whose shrine here was long one of the chief resorts of English
pilgrims. The abbey erected in the 11th cent, over his tomb soon
attained great wealth and importance. See the characteristic
account of Bury by Carlyle, in 'Past and Present'.
Opposite the Angel Hotel is the Abbey Gateway , a fine Dec. structure
(if 1337, leading to the Botanic Gardens (adm. Gd.), which contain the chief
remains of the Abbey, including the ruins of the Church (within a railing,
at the S.E. corner), the Abbot's Palace, and the Abbot's Bridge (N.E. corner).
— Among other points of interest in Bury are St. James's Church, a Perp.
edifice of the 15th cent. ; a Norman Tower (ca. 1090) ; St. Mary's Church,
with a fine timber ceiling (15th cent.); and Moyses Hall, a late-Norman
building, supposed to have been a Jewish synagogue (now the police-office).
In the environs of Bury are (4 M.) Hengrave Hall, a fine Tudor man-
sion; Ickworth House (3 M.), the seat of the Marquis of Bristol, a large
modern building; Barton House (2 M.), etc.
Beyond Bury the railway goes on to Haughley Road Junction, where
it joins the line from Ipswich to Norwich (comp. p. 444). —
Branch-lines
also run from Bury to Thetford (p. 441) and Mark's ley (p. 442).

61. From London to Tilbury and Southend.

Railwayto (23 M.) Tilbury in s/4 -l hr. (fares 2*. 6<2., Is. lid., Is. 4<*.);
to (42 M.) Southend in l-l^A hr. (fares 4s. id. , 3s. , 2s. 2d.). The above
fares are from Fenchurch Street Station; for the fares from Liverpool Street to
Tilbury, add Id. in each case. From ChalkFarm the fares are slightly lower.
This line skirts the N. bank of the Thames and the Thames
estuary. The stations as far as (23 M.) Tilbury are described in
Baedeker's London. Beyond Tilbury the line turns to the N. —
28 M. Stanford-le-Hope, with an interesting church. To the left
rises Langdon Hill (380 ft.), a good point of view. Beyond —
(36 M.) Benfleet the ruins of Hadleigh Castle are seen to the left.
42 M. Southend (Royal; Hope; Ship), a small watering-place
(4600 inhab.) at the mouth of the Thames, is chiefly patronized
by day-excursionists from London. It possesses an Esplanade and
a wooden Pier, 2000 yds. long, traversed by a tramway. Excursion
steamers ply to and from London in summer. —
About 3 M. to the
E. of Southend is Shoeburynesa (Cambridge Hotel), the government
station for artillery practice with a long gun- range.
,
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 SCOTLAND.
I. Travelling Expenses. Hotels.
Expenses. Travelling in the tourist-districts of Scotland has the re-
putation of being expensive; and as regards a few of the Highland hotels,
which practically possess a monopoly of the traveller's custom , this re-
proach is perhaps deserved. A considerable improvement in this respect
has, however, taken place of late years ; and it may he questioned whether
the average charges at Scottish hotels are higher than those in equally
frequented districts of England (comp. p. xxiii). The competition of the
steamboats and railways, and the extensive development of the system of
Circular Tours (see below) have, on the other hand, made the expenses
of locomotion very moderate. The ordinary tourist, frequenting the best
hotels and availing himself of the usual means of locomotion, must be
prepared to spend 25-30*. a day, but the pedestrian of modest require-
ments may reduce his expenditure to 10-12*. daily.
Hotels. The Highland hotels are generally good and comfortable,
though their charges are high (see above) The average summer prices at
houses of the first class are about as follows; R. & A. is.-5t. 6<J., plain
breakfast or tea 1*. 6<J., D. 3*. 6<J.-5*. The Scottish table d'hote breakfasts,
with their abundant choice of salmon, fresh herrings, chops, steaks, ham
and eggs, preserves, cakes, and scones, are certainly not exorbitant at their
usual rate of 2>. 6d.-3s. ; and table d'hote teas (7.30-8 p. m.) of a similar
description are also sometimes provided for those who do not dine at
table d'hote (6 or 7 p.m.). Those who prefer it may order dinner in the
middle of the day. The charges for luncheons and other light refreshments
are often comparatively high. Wine in the Highland hotels is always
dear and generally bad; but good whiskey — the vin du pays — which
may be mixed with soda-water, may be obtained almost everywhere. In
small quantities, diluted, it will be found a good drink for the pedestrian.
The beds are usually good and clean ; and the larger hotels contain com-
fortably fitted up drawing, reading, billiard, and smoking rooms. Gratuities
need not be given except to the 'Boots', but it is usual to give a trifle to
the waiter and chamber-maid if any stay be made (comp. p. xxiii).
Hotel Coupons (B., with meat and eggs, 2s. 6<J., L. 2*., D. 3*. 6<f., plain
tea 1*. 6<J., tea with meat 2*. 6d., R. & A. 4s.) are issued by the Cale-
donian Railway Co. and by the tourist agent9 (Cook, Gaze) in London;
but at some places (e.g. Oban) these are not accepted at the leading hotels,
nor are they available for the 'monopoly' hotels at the Trossachs, Tarbet,
etc. Temperance Hotels, see p. xxiii. Lidies are advised to frequent first-
class hotels only.

II. Railways, Coaches, and Steamers.

general remarks made at p. xx on the railways of England apply
The
also to those of Scotland. The principal Scottish railway-companies are
the North British (1087 M.), the Caledonian (742V 2 M.), the Highland (425 M.),
the Glasgow and South Western (454 M.), and the Great North of Scotland
(312 M.).
The different railway - companies issue Circular Tickets, available by
rail,coaoh, and steamer, in such variety of combination, that the traveller
will find no difficulty in selecting a tour which includes exactly the points
he wishes to visit. The Caledonian Co. alone has arranged upwards of
80 circular tours, embracing the whole of Scotland to the K. of Edin-
burgh and Glasgow; and the North British Railway has nearly as many.
All, or almost all, the tours begin and end at Glasgow or Edinburgh; but
many of them may also be begun at Perth, Stirling, Oban, Aberdeen, etc.
Full information regarding these circular tours will be found in the Tourist
Handbooks published by the railway-companies. The tickets are usually
available for several weeks; and the utmost facilities are granted for
breaking the journey. Most of the tickets are issued for 1st and 3rd class
29*
452 SCOTLAND.
only. The latter, 15-30 per cent cheaper than the former, generally In-
clude equal privileges on steamers and coaches; hut the Scottish third-class
compartments are inferior to those of England. —
The English railway-com-
panies issue tourist tickets to Scotland at reduced rates, availahle for 1-2
months. — The Scottish 'Bradshaw' is Murray's Time Tables (monthly, 3d.).
Coaches. The Highland coaches are, as a rule, excellently horsed,
and form a delightful means of seeing the country in fine weather. There
is invariably a keen competition for the box -seats; and travellers, on
reaching a point whence the journey is to be continued by coach, should
send one of the party as quickly as possible to secure good places. The
first coach, where there are more than one, suffers least from dust. The
driver expects a gratuity of 6<Z.-ls. 6d. according to the length of the drive.
— Posting, as in England (p. xxii).
Steamers. There is probably nowhere a better service of pleasure
steamers than those which ply on the Clyde and along the W. coast of
Scotland; and they are certainly much superior to the English river-
steamers. Most of them belong to Mr. David Macbrayne (119 Hope St., Glas-
gow), who issues tickets for six days' sailing (31.), available on any of his
vessels (board included). The fares generally are very moderate, and the
restaurants on board excellent. — A small but exasperating annoyance in
steamboat travelling in Scotland is the constant demand for pier-dues (1-3<J.)
on landing or embarking, as the piers usually belong to private owners.

III. Plan of Tour.

The regular 'Season' for a tour in Scotland is July and August, when,
however, the hotels are often over-crowded. June is in some respects one
of the pleasantest months ; but many of the circular tour tickets are not
issued, and some of the coaches do not begin running, until July. The
first half of July is generally less crowded than the following 4-6 weeks.
The first half of September is also often a favourable season, but the days
begin to be perceptibly shorter. —Sunday is practically a dies non in
Highland travelling, and Sunday quarters should always be engaged in
advance. Most of the trains, steamers, and coaches cease running on Sunday,
and in some quarters it is even difficult to hire a private carriage.
As already stated, the possible combinations of tours in Scotland are
sn numerous that it is difficult to give advice in mapping out a journey.
The following routes, however, will at least give an idea of the time re-
quired for a visit to the most attractive points.
a. Tour of 3-4 Weeks. Days
Edinburgh and Environs (Roslin, Hawthornden) 3-4
From Edinburgh to Melrose and Dryburgh, and back 1
From Edinburgh via Callander, the Trossachs, and Loch Lomond to
Glasgow (Circular Tour) 1-2
Glasgow 1-2
Falls of Clyde and back i
/2-i
From Glasgow to Ayr (Burns Country) and back 1
From Glasgow to Arran (night-quarters) and back ...... 2
From Glasgow to Oban by the Crinan Canal 1
Circular Tour from Oban to Loch Awe and back 1
From Oban to lona and Staffa, and back 1
From Oban to Ballachulish and Glencoe 1
From Ballachulish to Inverness. Caledonian Canal. Fall of Foyers 1
From Inverness to Loch Maree and back 2
From Inverness to Aberdeen and in Aberdeen l-IVs
From Aberdeen to Braemar * • 1
From Braemar through the Spilal of Glenshee to Perth .... 1
From Perth to Crieff, Comrie, Lochearnhead, Loch Tay, Kenmore,
Aberfeldy, and Dunkeld 1-2
From Dunkeld to Pitlochry and back to Perth 1
From Perth to Edinburgh or Glasgow "
. . . i/j

22-27
 SCOTLAND. 453
Those who do not fear a short sea-voyage should undoubtedly add
to this tour a visit to the island of Skye, which contains, perhaps, the
grandest scenery in Scotland. The island is reached either from Oban or
from Inverness (via Oairloch or Strome Ferry). These who dispense with
a visit to Aberdeen may obtain a circular ticket from Edinburgh (Glasgow)
for Perth, Dunkeld, Inverness, Dingwall, Achnasheen, Loch Maree, Oair-
loch, Portree (Skye), Oban, Crinan Canal, and Glasgow (or in the reverse
direction). From Oban an excursion to Skye and back may be made by
steamer in 2-3 days. The route via Dingwall and Strome Ferry (Ding-
wall & Skye Railway) offers the shortest sea-passage (Inverness to Skye
and back in 2-3 days). —
Inveraray, which is not im-luded in the above
itinerary, may be visited from Glasgow on a circular tour of 2-3 days.

b. A Week from Edinburgh or Glasgow. Days

Edinburgh 1-2
From Edinburgh Invennaid as given in R. 67 ; thence by steamer
to
to Ardlui, coach to Crianlarich, and railway to Lochearnhead (one
long day from 6 or 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.) 1
Coach to Crieff, railway to Perth 1
Railway to Aberfeldy, coach to Kenmore, steamer on Loch Tay to
Kiltin Pier; railway to Edinburgh or Glasgow 1
[Or from Killin by railway to Oban, and on the following day by
steamer or railway back to Edinburgh or Glasgow .... 2

c. A Week from Glasgow or Edinburgh.

Glasgow 1
Railway to Greenock, steamer through Loch Long and Loch Ooil to
Lochgoilhead, coach to St. Catherine's, ferry to Inveraray, coach
to Tarbet 1-2
Steamer to Inversnaid, and thence via the Trossachs, etc., as in
R. 67, to Edinburgh or Glasgow 1-2
The remaining days may be filled up by excursions from Oban to
Staffa and lona; from Glasgow to Arran, Ayr, or the Clyde; from Edin-
burgh to Melrose, Hawthornden, etc. ; or from Perth to Dunkeld or Pitlochry.

IV. Outline of Scottish History.

The event in the history of Scotland to which a fixed date can
first
be assigned is its invasion in A.D. 78 by Julius Agricola, who advanced
as far as the Tay. Antoninus Pius (ca. 105) constructed an earthen ram-
part from the Clyde to the Forth, and Severus (208) carried the Roman
arms to the Moray Firth ; but practically the Romans made no permanent
conquests beyond the Great Wall uniting the Solway and the Tyne (see
p. 376). The earliest known inhabitants of the country were the three
Celtic races Britons, Picts, and Scots. The Britons extended as far as the
:

Forth and Clyde and came partly under Roman influence. The Picts (Latin,
'Picti', painted) or Cruithne seem to have had their original settlements in
the extreme N. of Scotland and Ireland. The Scots, who eventually gave
their name to the whole country, came from Ireland and settled at first
in Argyllshire. From an early period they united with the Picts in assaults
on the Romans and Romanised Britons. The conversion of these three
races to Christianity seems to have begun before the close of the 4th cent.,
and the three chief missionaries were St. Ninian (Galloway; 4-5th cent.), St.
Ken tig em or Mungo (p. 477 ; 5-6th cent.), and St. Columba (p. 490 ; 6-7tn cent.).
Down to the 9th cent, the history of the Picts, in the N. part of the
country, and of the Scots, in their kingdom of Dalriada (Argyllshire) is
somewhat confusing and uncertain. The Britons of South Scotland, the
kingdom of Strathclyde, separated by the English from their S. kinsmen
maintained their independence down to the 10th cent, (see p. 454).
844-860. Kenneth Macalpine unites the Picts and Scots in one kingdom,
at first called Albany and afterwards (10-llth cent.) Scotland. Contests
with the Britons of Strathclyde.
943-954. Malcolm I. extends his sway over Strathclyde (see p. 454).
454 SCOTLAND.
1005-1034. Malcolm II. conquers Lothian.
1034-1040. Duncan, grandson of Malcolm II., is killed by —
1040-1057. Macbeth, who usurps the throne and proves himself^an
able ruler. He falls in battle against the son of Duncan —
1058-1093. Malcolm III. Canmore, who gives shelter to Edgar Atheling
and marries his sister Margaret (1068). The English language, English
customs, and English colonists begin to gain a footing in Scotland.
1107-1124. Alexander I. marries Sibylla, daughter of Henry I. of
England.
1124-1153. David I., the 'Scottish Alfred', does much to promote the
civilisation of Scotland. He invades England, in support of Matilda, and
is defeated at the Battle of the Standard (1138 ; see p. 409).
1154-1165. Malcolm IV., the Maiden.
1165-1214. William the Lion is taken prisoner by Henry II. and has
to acknowledge his supremacy, but afterwards re-establishes his indepen-
dence. Alliance with France.
1214-1249. Alexander II. takes part with the English Barons against
King John.
Alexander III., a wise and good king, under whom Scotland
1249-1289.
enjoys peace and prosperity. After his death and that of his grand-
daughter and heiress, Margaret, the Maid of Norway (1290), the succes-
sion to the crown is disputed by Baliol and Bruce. Edward I. of England
is appealed to and decides in favour of —
1292-1297. John Baliol, who, however, scarcely maintains a semblance
of independence and after a short resistance to Edward's pretensions is
carried prisoner, to London (1297). William Wallace, the 'Man of the
People', rises against the English, and defeats them at Stirling Bridge,
but is linally captured by Edward I. and beheaded (1305).
1306-1329. Robert Bruce, however, succeeds as patriot-leader of the
Scots , finally secures the independence of Scotland by his victory at
Bannockburn (1314), and is recognised on all hands as king.
1329-1370. David II., the weak son of a great father, carries on an
unsuccessful war with England, is defeated at Neville's Cross (1346; p. 414),
and is kept prisoner by Edward III. for 11 years.
1370-1390. Robert II., son of Marjory, Bruce's daughter, is the first of
the Stuarts. Battle of Olterbourn (1388).
1390-1406. Robert III also carries on war with England. Defeated
at Bomildon Hill (1402). His son and successor —
1406-1437. James I., is taken prisoner by the English on his way to
France in 1405 and spends the first 18 years of his reign in captivity. The
Duke of Albany is appointed regent. Defeat of Donald, Lord of the Isles,
at Harlaw (1412). James writes the 'King's Quhair' and other poems. His
reforms are in advance of the age and he is assassinated by conspirators
at Perth (see p. 498).
1437-1460. James II. stabs the Earl of Douglas, a dangerous and tur-
bulent subject, at Stirling (1452; p. 485), and strengthens the royal author-
ity. He is killed by the bursting of a gun at the siege of Roxburgh (p. 456).
1460-1488. James III. attempts to rule through favourites, who are
put to death by Angus 'Bell the Cat' and other conspirators. A rebellion
breaks out, and James is defeated by his nobles at Sauchieburn and slain.
1488-1513. James IV. marries Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., and
is slain at the disastrous battle of Flodden.
1513-1542. James V. marries Mary of Guise. Represses the Border
Freebooters. Is defeated at Solway Moss (1542) and dies of a broken heart.
1542-1567. Mary Stuart marries first the Dauphin of France (1558),
then Darnley (1565), and lastly Bothwell (1567). Defeat of the English at
Ancrum Moor (1544) and of the Scots at Pinkie (1547). Murder of Rizzio
(1566). Reformation in Scotland (1560 et seq.); John Knox. Mary, while
imprisoned in Lochleven Castle, abdicates in favour of her son (1567).
1567-1603. James VI. Defeat at Langside (1568) of Mary, who takes
refuge in England. Regencies of Moray (1568), Lennox (1570), Mar (1571),
and Morion (1572). Raid of Ruthven (1582). Queen Mary executed (1587). Gow-
rie Conspiracy (1600; see p. 498). James succeeds to the English throne.
 455

V. Noest on the Gaelic Language.

The Gaelic of the Scottish Highlands is akin to the Welsh, and
substantially identical with the Erse of Ireland. Owing to the numerous
combinations of silent consonants and other causes, it is less easy, however,
to indicate its pronunciation than that of Welsh. It may, however, be
useful to bear in mind that the vowels have the Continental, not the
English value (comp. p. xxxi) ; and that the frequently occurring aspiration
of a consonant has the effect either of softening it or of effacing it altogether
(thus bh = », dh= y, fh mute, and ch guttural). The ordinary tourist will,
however, find that English is always understood, though the enterprising
pedestrian may occasionally stumble upon a Gael ignorant of all save his
mother-tongue. The following is a short glossary of Gaelic roots of fre-
quent recurrence in the names of places. Aber, mouth, confluence; achadh
(ach, auch), a field; alt, ault (genitive uilt), a brook; an, a diminutive
termination; ard, high; bal, baile, a village or place; ban, white; beag
(beg), little; beinn (ben), a mountain; breac (vreck, vrackie), speckled; cam,
cambut, crooked; ceann (kin, ken), head; clach, a stone, clachan (dim.),
a village; dal, a field; dearg, red; dubh (dhu), black ; dun, a hill-fort; eat
(eat), waterfall ; fad, fada, long; fionn (fyne), white, shining; garbh (garve),
rough, rugged; glas, gray; gorm, blue; innit (inch), island; inbhir (inver),
same as aber; eil (kil), cell, church, parish; coille (killie), wood; cadi
(kyle), strait; lag, a hollow; linn, linne, a pool; mam, meall, a rounded
hill; mor (more), great; muc (gen. muic), a sow; cuach, quoich, a cup;
rots, a point; truth, ttru, tiruan, running water; tulloch (tilly, fully), a
knoll; tir (tyre), land; uitge (esk), water (usquebaugh, water of life,
hence whiskey).

62. From London to Edinburgh or Glasgow.

The traveller may choose between three different railway-routes for
his journey to Scotland. The fast trains between London and Edinburgh
take 8V2-IO hrs. Fares to Edinburgh 57s. 6d., 44s. Qd., 32s. 8d.; to Olatgow
58s., 45*. 3d., 33*.; reduced return-fares in summer. No second class on
the Midland Railway. Pullman Drawing-room Cars are attached to the fast
trains by day and Sleeping Cars (5s. extra) to the night-expresses. —
The
opening of the Forth Bridge (p. 495) has reduced the through-journey from
London to Aberdeen (p. 504) to 12'/4 (G.K.R.) -15 hrs. —
Steamers, see p. 462.

a. Via Leicester, Leeds, and Carlisle.

Midland and North British Railways ('Waverley Route') fromiS*. Pan-
eras Station to (406 M.) Edinburgh in 9V2-10 3/* hrs.; to (423 M.) Qlatgow in
9 3/4-10 3/« hrs. Half-an-hour is allowed for dinner at Normanton (p. 402) or
Leedt (p. 402), and luncheon-baskets (2s. 6<J.-3s.) may be obtained at St.
Pancras and Leicester.
From London to (308 M.) Carlisle, see R. 49. A short way
beyond Carlisle the line to Glasgow (Glasgow and South Western
Railway), described in R. 69, diverges to the left, while the Edin-
burgh trains follow the line of the North British Co., running
through the 'Waverley District'. From (^n 1 /^ M.) Longtown a
branch-line diverges to (4^2 M) Gretna Oreen (p. 462). To the
left lies Solway Moss, where the Scots were defeated by the English
in 1542. To the right, near (320 M.) Scotch Dyke, is Netherby
Hall, the scene of 'Young Lochinvar'. The train crosses the Esk
and the Liddel, and ascends the valley of the latter, skirting the
Cheviots (right). 322 M. Biddinys is the junction of a line to
Canobie and (7 M.) Langholm. The obelisk on the hill to the left
456 Route 62. HAWICK. From London

commemorates General Sir John Malcolm. At (329 M.) Kershope

Foot we cross the Kershope Burn and entei Scotland (Rox-
burghshire). —
332 M. Newcastleton the centre of the district of
Liddesdale
,

the home of 'Dandie Dinmont' (comp. p. 417).

,
—
340 M. Biccarton is the junction of a line to Reedsmouth and Hex-
ham (see p. 418). Farther on (left) rise the Maiden Paps (1675 ft.).
353V2M. Hawick ( Tower; Victoria), a woollen-making town with
17,000 inhab., contains little to detain the tourist. About 3 M.
to the S. W. is Branksome (Branxholme) Tower, which still, as in
the 'Lay of the Last Minstrel', belongs to the Buccleuch family.
Beyond Hawick we see to the right *Ruberslaw (1390ft.), a
finely-shaped hill commanding an extensive view. To the right of
(358 M.) Hassendean are the picturesquely-wooded Minto Crags
(720 ft. ; *View), in the grounds of Minto House, seat of the Earl
of Minto. — 366 M. St. Boswells is the nearest station to (1 M.)
Dryburgh Abbey (p. 458); walkers may alight here, visit the abbey,
and then go on to (4 M.) Melrose.
From St. Boswells to Kelso and Berwick, 36^2 M. railway in 2 hrs.
The line runs along the S. hank of the Tweed.
(fares 5s. 6d., 4s. 5d., 2*. lid.).
To the right the Waterloo Monument, on the top of Penielheugh (775 ft.);
is
to the left is Smailholm Tower, the scene of Scott's 'Eve of St. John'.
Adjoining the latter is the farm of Sandyknowe, where Scott, when a child,
often visited his grandfather. —
Beyond (9 M
) Roxburgh, the junction of
the line to (7 M.) Jedburgh (see helow), the train crosses the Teviot.
Floors Castle, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Roxburghe, is seen
among the trees to the left (visitors admitted to the grounds on Wed.).
Near Floors are the scanty remains of Roxburgh Castle.
IIV2M. Kelso (Cross Keys; Queen's Bead), a prosperous little market-
town with 4500 inhab., 1 M. from the station, is chiefly of interest for its
'Abbey, a small hut fine ruin in the Norman and E. E. styles, destroyed
by the English in 1545. The Museum (open on Mon., Wed., & Frid., 12 3)
contains objects of local interest. —
At Ednam, 2 M. to theN.E., is a mon-
ument to Thomson, the poet, who was horn there in 1699.
22 M. Coldstream (Newcastle Arms) gives its name to the Coldstream
Guards, raised here by General Monk in 1660. About 6 M. to the S.
is the field of Flodden, where the Scottish army, led by James IV., was
defeated by the English in 1513. A branch-line runs from Coldstream
to Wooler and Hilton Junction (p. 416). •
—
At (25'/2 M.) Twizell we cross
the Till. The Norman keep (12th cent.) of (27'/2 M.) Norham appears in the
opening scene of 'Marmion'. —
34 M. Tweedmouth. —
35'/2 M. Berwick-upon-
Tweed, see p. 417.
Another line runs from St. Boswells to Duns and (31 M.) Reston June
lion (p. 459).
[Jedburgh (Spread Eagle; Royal), a picturesque little border-town,
with a stormy past, lies on the Jed, and contains about 3500 inhabitants.
'Jedburgh Abbey (adm. 6d.), founded by David I. in 1118, is one of the
largest and most beautiful ecclesiastical ruins in Scotland (late-Norman,
with subsequent modifications). Several houses with historical associa-
tions are shown in Jedburgh Queen Mary lodged in an old house in
:

Queen Street, and Prince Charles Stuart at 9 Castlegate (after Preston-

pans); Burns lived at 27 Canongate in 1787, Sir David Brewster (1781-1868)
was born in the same street, and Scott visited Wordsworth at 6 Abbey
Close (1805). 'Jeddart Justice', like Lydford Law (p. 135), is proverbial;
and 'Jeddart Staves' were long unpleasantly familiar to the English Bor-
derers. — Excursions may be made from Jedburgh to (2 M.) Ferniherst
Castle (16th cent.), to (4 M.) the Waterloo Monument on Penielheugh (comp.
above), and to (2 M.) Dtmion Hill (1095 ft.; 'View).]
 ;

to Edinburgh. MELROSE. $2. Route. 457

The three hills, or rather triple-peaked hill, that have for

some time been visible to the left are theEildons (1385 ft.), which
owe their present appearance, according to tradition, to the agency
of the devil, -working at the bidding of the wizard Michael Scott.
Thomas of Ercildoun, or 1 Thomas the Rhymer' (L3th cent.) is said to have
been carried off by the Queen of the Fairies, and detained for three yeaTS,
like Tannhauser in the Venusberg, in an enchanted land inside the hills.
As we approach Melrose we have a view of the abbey to the
right.
369 M. Melrose (* Abbey; George; King's Arms; Waverley Tem-
perance Hotel, well spoken of, near the station; Waverley Hydro-
pathic, l /% M. from the station), a small town with 1600 inhab.,
is prettily situated on the Tweed. The Town Cross , at the head
of the High Street, dates from the 14th century.
*Melrose Abbey, indisputably the finest ruin in Scotland, lies
a few hundred yards to the N. of the railway-station (adm. 6d.).
Originally founded in the 12th cent, by David I., that 'sair sanct
for the crown', the abbey was afterwards almost wholly destroyed
by Edward II. and rebuilt by Robert Bruce (14th cent.), and once
more destroyed and rebuilt in the following century.
The principal part of the present remains is the 'Choir, a line example
of late-Gothic (ca. 1450), with slender shafts, richly-carved capitals, elab-
orate vaulting, and large and exquisitely -traceried windows (especially
the *E. Window). The Transept crosses the choir near its E. end. Of
the Nave there are comparatively few remains. The beautiful sculp-
tures throughout the church were sadly defaced at the Reformation. On
the N. side are two Norman arches. Alexander II. and the heart of Robert
Bruce aTe interred at the E. end, near the site of the high-altar. The
tomb of Michael Scott is pointed out in the chapel on the S. side of the
choir (to the E. of the S. transept), and SirDavid Brewster (d. 1868) is bu-
ried in the churchyard, close to the S. wall of the aisle.
4
On the right bank of the Tweed, 23 M. above Melrose, lies
*Abbotsford, the picturesque home of Sir Walter Scott (open 10-5
adm. Is.). The Toad to it (carr. &s. 6d.) leads to the W. from
Melrose, passing the Waverley Hydropathic Establishment and the
village of Darnick, with its old 'peel' or Border tower.
In 1811 Scott bought the small farm of Clarty Hole, changing its
name to Abbotsford, planting it with trees, and beginning the large and irre-
gularly-built mansion which he occupied till his death in 1832. The rooms
shown to visitors include the great novelist's Study, the Library, the
Drawing Room, and the Entrance Hall. They contain numerous personal
relics of Scott and also many historical curiosities. The Dining Room, in
which Scott died, is not shown. — The house is now owned by the
Hon. Mrs. Maxwell Scott, a greatrgrand-daughter of the novelist.
Next in interest to Abbotsford among places near Melrose is
Db.ybub.gh Abbey, where Sir Walter Scott is interred in the
burial vault of his ancestors.
The pleasantest'way to make this excursion is to walk or drive via the
Eildon Hills (see above) and St. Boswells (p. 456; 41/2M.) and return by Be-
merside (6 M.; carr. for the round, with one horse MO, with two 13-15s.).
Both routes afford charming views, the most extensive being that from
Bemerside Hill. Bemerside has belonged to the family of Haig for seven
centuries. Between Bemerside and Dryburgh is a huge and rude Statue of
William Wallace. Abbotsford and Dryburgh can easily be included in
458 Route 62. GALASHIELS. From London
one day's excursion from Melrose, even by the pedestrian (carr. and pair
for the day 20-25s.).
The picturesque and extensive ruins of "Dryburgh Abbey (adm. 6<2.)
date from the 12-14th cent, and include parts of the church, the chapter
house, the refectory, the cloisters, and the domestic buildings. Scott
(d. 1832) is interred in St. Mary's Aisle. John Gibson Lockhart (d. 1854),
Scott's son-in-law and biographer, is also buried here.

After leaving Melrose we have a glimpse of Abbotsford to the

left,and cross the Tweed. —
373 M. Galashiels (Commercial;
Abbotsford Arms ; Royal), a busy town of 16,000 inhab., is noted
for its tweeds and tartans.
From Galashiels a short branch runs to (6 M.) Selkirk, passing (2V2M.)
Abbotsford Ferry, the nearest station to (1 M.) Abbotsford (see p. 457). —
Selkirk (County; Fleece; Town Arms), another tweed-making town of 6100
inhab., with statues of Sir Walter Scott and Mungo Park (1771-1805), a native
of Selkirkshire. A delightful excursion may be made hence through the
lovely and much besung valley of the Yarrow to (15 M.) *St. Mary's Loch.
The usual goal of the excursion, Tibbie ShieWs Inn, is at the S. end of the
lake, 311. farther on. On theW. bank is the Rodono Hotel (D 3*.). The
.

district in which the loch lies is called Eltrick Forest; and a statue of James
Hogg (1770-1835), the 'Ettrick Shepherd', has been erected near Tibbie
Shiels's. — The excursion may be continued through Moffat Dale, passing
the fine waterfall called the "Grey Mare's Tail, to (16 M.) Moffat (comp.
p. 461). Coaches ply thrice weekly from Selkirk to St. Mary's Loch (fare
3s., return 5s., driver Is.), corresponding with the coaches to Moffat (p. 461).
Fkom Galashiels to Peebles, 18V2 M., railway in 1 hr. At (8V2 M.)
Clovenfords, above the junction of the Gala and Tweed, are Thomson's
Vineries, which provide the London market with immense quantities
of grapes. On the other side of the Tweed is Ashiestiel, where most of
'Marmion' and the 'Lay' was written. Beyond (6 M.) Thornilee we pass
the ruined Elibank Tower, on the left. — 10 M. Walkerbum. — 12 M. Inner-
leithen (St. Ronan's; Traquair Arms), a small watering-place with min-
eral springs, is the original of 'St. Ronan's Well'. — About 1 M. to the
S. is Traquair House, supposed to be the 'Bradwardine' of 'Waverley',
with a very ancient tower. — 15 M. Cardrona.
I8V2 M. Peebles (Tontine; CrossKeys; Commercial; "Hydropathic Estab-
lishment, 52s. Gd. per week), an ancient town with 6000 inhab., prettily
situated on the Tweed. The old castle has disappeared , but the towers
of two venerable churches still tand. Peebles was the native place of
William (1800-83) and Robert (1802-71) Chambers whose name is commem-
,

orated in the Chambers Institute (adm. 3d.), presented to the town by

the elder brother. Part of it belongs to the old mansion of the Queens-
berry family and dates from the 16th century. The Cross Keys is believed
to be the prototype of 'Meg Dods's Inn' in 'St. Ronan's Well'. — About
1 M. to the W. are the ruins of Neidpath Castle, finely situated on the
Tweed ('View from the top). About 3V2 M. farther on, on the S. side of
the Tweed, near the farm of Woodhouse, is the 'Black Dwarfs Cottage' .
—
Many other pleasant excursions may be made from Peebles, and the
streams in the vicinity afford good fishing. — From Peebles we may go
on to (27 M.) Edinburgh by train via Leadbum and Eskbank (see p. 459).
The train now ascends the valley of the Gala Water. From
(3791/2 M.) Stow a coach runs to (6 M.) Lauder, where Archibald
Douglas, Earl of Angus, surnamed 'Bell the Cat', seized and hang-
ed Cochrane, favourite of James III. (1482). Beyond (390 M.) Tyne-
head, where we reach the highest point (900 ft.) of this part of the
line, we pass the ruins of Crichton Castle (15th cent.) on the right
and Borthwick Castle (1430; with room occupied by Queen Mary
ano' Bothwell) on the left. — 393 M. Fushiebridye. — 394 M. Gore-
 to Edinburgh. NORTH BERWICK. 62. Route. 459

bridge. To the left are Dalhousie Castle and Cockpen. Near (397 M.)
Dalhousie is Newbattle Abbey, the fine seat of the Marquis of Lo-
thian ; in the grounds is the largest beech in the kingdom, 33 ft
in girth. 39tt M. Eskbank , the station for Dalkeith (p. 475).
Arthur's Seat (p. 470) comes into sight on the left.
403 M. Portobello (Brighton ; Royal ; Regent Temperance), the
Margate of Edinburgh, with extensive sands and a promenade-pier
(Id.; band on Sat. in summer). —
We here join the East Coast
Route (R. 62b), skirt the base of the Calton Bill (p. 471), with
the castellated Prison, and enter the Waverley Station at —
406 M. Edinburgh (see R. 64).

b. Vi& York, Newcastle, and Berwick.

Great Northern , North Eastern, and North British Railways
('East Coast Route') from King's Cross to (393 M.) Edinburgh in8i/2-10'/2 hrs.;
to (444 Al.) Glasgow in 9 3/<-il hrs. The best train is the 'Flying Scotsman',
starting at 10 a.m. Half-an-hour for dinner is allowed at York; and lun-
cheon-baskets may also be obtained.
From London to (33572 M.) Berwick, see R. 50. —
Beyond Ber-
wick the line skirts the coast, turning inland at (341 M.) Burn-
mouth, a picturesque fishing-village. 343 M. Ayton is the station
for Eyemouth (Cross Keys), a busy little fishing- town, with 3000
inhabitants. — 347 M. Reston (WheaUheaf) is the junction of a
line to Duns and St. Boswells (comp. p. 456).
Near the coast, 372 M. to the N.E. of Reston (omn. is.), is the village
of Coldingham (New Inn), with the Transition Norman ruins of a Bene-
dictine priory, founded in 1098. From Coldingham we may proceed to the
N. to f2'/2M -)
"
st - Abb's Head, a bold rocky promontory, rising 300ft.
above the sea. On it are a Lighthouse and a ruined Church. —
About 3'/2 M.
farther up the coast are the scanty ruins of "Fast Castle, perched upon a
precipitous cliff that has been identilied with the 'Wolf's Crag' of the
'Bride of Lammermoor'. Walkers who have come thus far may go on to
rejoin the railway at (7 M.) Cochbwnspath (see below).
Beyond Reston the train follows the course of the Eye. 352 M.
Grant's House. At (35672 M.) Cockburnspath (Inn) we again reach the
sea. 35972 M. Innerwick. Farther on we cross the Broxburn, where
Cromwell defeated the Scots at the Battle of Dunbar (1650).
36372 M. Dunbar (George; Royal), a small seaport and fishing-
station, with 3500 inhab., formerly of more importance than at
present. The ruins of the old Castle, which plays a prominent role
in Scottish history, are very scanty; they stand on a crag imme-
diately above the harbour, and command a fine view.
Beyond Dunbar we have a good view to the right of the Bass
Rock (see p. 460) and North Berwick Law (see p. 460). About 3 M.
to the N. E. of (370 M.) East Linton is Tyninghame House, the seat
of the Earl of Haddington , surrounded by finely-wooded grounds,
which are open to the public on Saturday.
37572 M. Drem is the junction of the short line to (6 M.) North
Berwick (^Marine, facing the sea, R. & A. from 4s., D. 4s. Qd.;
Royal, at the station numerous Private Hotels and Lodgings), a
;
 ;

460 Route 62. HADDINGTON. From London

very favourite seaside-resort, rivalling St. Andrews (p. 496). Its

attractions include a good sandy beach, picturesquely interspersed
with rocks, admirable golflng-links, and a neighbourhood which
affords many pleasant excursions. At the back of the town rises
North Berwick Law (612 it.~), the top of which commands a delightful
view. Off the coast are numerous rocky islands, the most impor-
tant of which is the Bass Rock. In a field near the station are the
ruins of a Cistercian Monastery (1216). North Berwick is within
/i hr. of Edinburgh by quick through trains , and excursion-
s -

steamers ply to and from Leith in summer.

Excursions. About 2 M. to the S.W. is Dirleton, one of the prettiest
of Scottish villages, with a ruined Castle (open to visitors on Thurs.).
To the E. (2V2 M.) is Canty Bay (Hotel), the starting-point for a visit
to the Bass Rock, which lies I1/2 M. from the shore (steam-launch 10s.;
4
fishing-boat less). The Bass Hock, which rises abruptly from the sea
to a height of 350 ft., is the haunt of myriads of solan geese and other
sea-birds. On it are the ruins of an old Castle, formerly used for the con-
finement of English prisoners and afterwards of Covenanters. The landing
except in calm weather.
is difficult —
On the coast, about V2 M. beyond
Canty Bay, is "Tantallon Castle, the romantic situation and appearance
of which are most accurately described in 'Marmion'.
Tyninghame Woods (see p. 459) are 3 x/2 M. beyond Tantallon. Ex- —
cursion-steamers ply in summer to (10 M.) the Isle of May.
379Y2 M. Longniddry is the junction of a line to (4 /2 M.)
J

Haddington (George ; Black Bull), a small town (4000 inhab.) on

the Tyne, with an important grain-market. The Knox Institute
commemorates the fact that John Knox was born in the suburb of
Giffordgate in 1505. Samuel Smiles and Mrs. Carlyle (Jane Welsh
d. 1866) were also natives of Haddington and the latter is com-
;

memorated by a tombstone in the churchyard.

Just before reaching (38372 M.) Prestonpans we pass, to the
right, the field of Prestonpans, where Prince Charles Stuart defeat-
ed the Royalists in 1745. The monument to the left, close to the
line, is to the memory of Col. Gardiner, who fell in the battle.
Prestonpans takes its name from its salt-pans, and has given name
to a light table-beer. Prestonpans is also the station for Tranent,
Ormiston (with an old cross), and the fishing-village of Cockenzie.
—A little farther on we pass the scene of the battle of Pinkie
(1547 to the left). 386y2 M. Inveresk.
;
—
3881/2 M. New Hailes.
New Hailes is the junction of a short line to (l>/2 M.) Musselburgh
(Musselburgh Arms), a small Seaport, much frequented by Edinburgh
golfers. Near the station is a monument to Dr. Moir (1798-1851), the
'Delta' of Blackwood's Magazine. To the W. of Musselburgh is the
Jishing-village of Fisherrow, which extends nearly to Joppa, a suburb of
Portobello (p. 459).
At (390 M.) Portobello we join the Waverley Route (R. 62a).
393 M. Edinburgh, see R. 64.

c. Via Crewe and Carlisle.

L.N.W. and Caledonian Railways ('West Coast Route') to (400 M.)
Edinburgh in 8V*-12i/2 hrs. ; to (401 M.) Glasgow in 8 3/4-123/4 hrs. Dinner
at Preston (25 min.).
From London to (299 M.) Carlisle, see R. 49. Soon after leaving
 to Edinburgh. MOFFAT. a2. Route. 461

Carlisle the train passes under the line described at p. 455, and
runs towards the N.W. Near (306 M.) Floriston it crosses the Esk
and enters the 'Debatable Ground'. View to the left of the Sol-
way Firth. 30872 M. Gretna Junction (comp. p. 462).
From Gretna Junction to Dumfries and Stranraer, see R. 63.
We now cross the Sark and enter Scotland. 313 M. Kirkpatrick;
317 M. Kirtle Bridge, the junction of a branch to (57a M.) Annan
(p. 462). — 320 M. Ecclefechan (Inn, plain), a small village in a
somewhat bleak district, taking its name from the Irish St.Fechan
(7th cent.), is now frequented by numerous pilgrims to the birth-
house and grave of Thomas Carlyle (1796-1881).
About 3 M. to the N. is the hill of Burnswark or Birrensuari (990 ft.;
view), with interesting Roman camps and British (?) forts.
326 M. Lockerbie (King's Arms; Blue Bell), a small town with
7000inhab., is the junction of a line to (14 M.) Dumfries (p. 462).
Travellers by the fast trains ,who wish to visit Burnswark and
Ecclefechan, alight here. — Several small stations.
340 M. Beattock (Bail. Efmt. Rooms) is the junction for (2 M.)
Moffat (Annandale Arms; Buccleuch Arms; * Hydropathic; Lodg-
ings), a small town with 2000 inhab. (doubled in the season), on
the Annan, and one of the chief inland watering-places of Scotland.
Omnibuses ply daily (6d.) to the sulphureous-saline Wells (625 ft.),
which lie 174 M. from the town and about 300 ft. above it.
The Environs of Moffat are pretty and afford several pleasant excur-
sions, among the most popular being those to (1 M.) Gallon Bill, the
wooded height to the N. of the town; Hartfell Spa, 4'/4 M. to the N.E.;
the Devil's Beef Tub (which figures in'Redgauntlet'), 5 M. to theN.; Beld
Craig, a wooded glen with a 'linn', or waterfall, 3>/2 M. to the S.E. ; the
(l'/j M.) Meeting of the Waters (the Annan, the Moffat, and the Evan); and
Oarpol Linn, 3 M. to the S. — Coaches ply thrice weekly during the
season (June-Sept.) to (11 M.) the 'Grey Mares Tail and (15 M.) St Mary's
Loch (comp. p. 458; fare 3s., return 5»., driver extra).
Beyond Beattock we reach the highest point of the line (1030 ft.)
and begin to descend into Clydesdale. At (3527a M.) Elvanfoot we
cross the infant Clyde. —
From (3667a M.) Symington, the best
station for an ascent of Tinto Hill (2300 ft.; view), a branch-line
diverges to (3 M.) Biggar and (19 M.) Peebles (p. 458).
t (3737a M.) Carstairs Junction (Rail. Rfmt. Rms.) the Cale-
donian Railway forks, the W. branch going on to Glasgow, and the
E. arm to Edinburgh. Those bound for the Falls of Clyde change
carriages here for (472 M.) Lanark (p. 480).
The chief stations on the Glasgow line, which traverses an iron and
coal district, are (8'/2 M.) Carluke, (13V2M.) Wishaw, and (16 M.) Motherwell
(Royal), the junction of lines to Hamilton (p. 480) and Vddingston. — 27 M.
Glasgow (Central Station), see p. 476.
The Edinburgh line turns to the right (N.). 375 M. Carnwath.
Beyond (3797a M.) Auchengray the train skirts the N. slopes of
the Pentland Hills. To the right, at (38372 M.) Cobbinshaw, is the
large reservoir of the Union Canal. At (391 M.) Midcalder we join
the direct line from Glasgow to Edinburgh via. Holytown (p. 476).
Mineral oil-works abound in this district. 3957a M. Currie Hill,
462 Route 63. ANNAN. From Carlisle

Farther on, Corstorphine Hill (p. 474) comes into sight on the
left, and Arthurs Seat (p. 470) on the right. 398»/2 M. Slateford.
400 M. Edinburgh (Caledonian Station), see R. 64.
d. By Sea.
The steamers of the London & Edinbubgh Shipping Company leave
the Hermitage Wharf, Wapping, every Tues., Wed., and Sat. for Leith;
those of the General Steam Navigation Co. leave Irongate and St. Kather-
ine^s Wharf twice weekly for Oranton. Fares in each case 22s., 16*. (food
extra); duration ofvoyage about 30-36 hrs.
[There also a bi-weekly service from the Carron and London and
is
Continental Wharves to Grangemouth (22*., 16*.), for Glasgow (26*., 24*.,
17*.) and the West of Scotland. The steamers sail up the Forth and un-
der the Forth Bridge (p. 504).]
This route, which may be recommended to the leisurely tra-
view of the E. coast of Eng-
veller in fine weather, affords a good
land. Among the more prominent points are Yarmouth (p. 447),
Flamborough Head (p. 420), Scarborough (p. 419), Whitby (p. 420),
Bamborough Castle (p. 416), Lindisfarne (p. 417), St. Abb's Head,
(p. 469), Tantallon Castle and the Bass Rock (p. 460), and Inch-
keith (p. 496). From Leith and Oranton (see p. 474) trains run
at frequent intervals to Edinburgh.

63. From Carlisle to Dumfries and Stranraer.

106 M. Railway in 5-5'/4 hrs. (17s. 8d., 8s. iOd.; no 2nd cl.). Through
sleeping-cars run from London (Euston and St. Pancras) to Stranraer.
From Carlisle to (9 l/2 M.) Oretna Junction, see p. 461. Our
line here turns to the left. 10^2 M. Oretna Green, formerly cele-
brated for its runaway marriages of couples from beyond the Border,
the ceremony being generally performed by the village blacksmith.
•
— 18 M. Annan (Buck ; Queensberry), a small town with 4500 in-
hab., was the birthplace of the Rev. Edward Irving (1792).
A line runs to the S. from Annan, across the Solway, to join the
Carlisle and Maryport Railway (p. 376). —
To Kirtle Bridge, see p. 461.
25 M. Ruthwell. About l 3/^ M. to the S. of the station, in the
manse-garden, is a famous *Runie Cross, the inscription on which
is said to be the earliest piece of written English extant.
33 M. Dumfries (King's Arms; Queensberry ; Commercial; *Sta-
tion; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), the chief town in S. W. Scotland, with
17,000 inhab., is situated on the Nith. A conspicuous building
is New Grey friars Church ,occupying the site of the old castle.
Close by lay the Greyfriars Monastery, in the church of which Bruce
slew the Red Comyn (1306). Adjacent is the Burns Monument,
erected in 1882. Burns's house in Bank St. is marked by an in-
scription. The house in which he died (21st July, 1796) is in Burns
St., a lane leading out of St. Michael Street, next to the Industrial
School, on which are a bust and inscription. His grave in the
churchyard of St. Michael's is covered by a Mausoleum (adm. 3d.),
in a tasteless classical style. The Globe Inn (entr. by 44 High St.),
a favourite resort of the poet, contains his chair, his watch, and
 ;

to Stranraer. DUMFRIES. 63. Route. 463

lilies cut by him with a diamond on the window. The Statue of

Burns, in Church Place, is by Mrs. D. 0. Hill. The Old Bridge,
connecting the town with the suburb of Maxwelltown, dates from
the 13th century. In Maxwelltown is the Observatory (adm. 6d.
view), containing a small museum; in the grounds is a statue of
'Old Mortality' (see below).
Environs. Crossing the bridge to Maxwelltown, taking the first turn
to the right, and following the road to the N., we reach (l'/2 M.) Lin-
cluden Abbey, prettily situated at the confluence of the Cluden and the
With. The Abbey, a Benedictine house, was founded in the 12th cent.,
but the present remains are chiefly of a later date (14-15th cent.). The
walk may be continued up the Cluden to (3 M.) Irongray, the churchyard
of which contains the grave of Helen Walker, the original of 'Jeanie
Deans', marked by an inscription by Sir Walter Scott. About •/» M.
farther on is an interesting Covenanters' Monument. — On the Solway, 8 M.
to the S. of Dumfries, is "Caerlaverock Castle (the 'Ellangowan' of 'Guy
Mannering'), an ancient stronghold of the Maxwells (Earls of Nithdale),
dating in its present form mainly from the 15th century. Caerlaverock
churchyard contains the grave of 'Old Mortality' (R. Paterson). — Another
charming excursion may be taken to (7'/2 M.) 'Hew or Sweetheart Abbey,
to the W. of the Nith estuary. The Abbey was founded in 1275 by De-
vorgilla Balliol, and derives its name (douce coeur) from the fact that she
had the heart of her husband John Balliol (see p. 236) buried here in her
own tomb. From Sweetheart Abbey walkers may go on to O'/s M.) the top
of Criffel (1856 ft., 'View).
From Ddmfbies to Glasgow, 92 M., railway in 2-3 3/« hrs. (fares 18*.
—
9d., 6s. iOd. ; no 2nd cl.). Soon after leaving Dumfries, we have a view of
Lincluden Abbey (see above) to the left. To the right, 3-4 M. farther on, is
the white farm-house of Ellisland, where Burns wrote 'Tam o' Shanter'.
— 14V2 M. Thornhill (Buccteuch Arms) is the starting-point for visits to
(3 l/2 M.) Drumlanrig Castle (gardens and park open on Tues. & Frid.) and
(3 M.) Crickhope Linn. Near Moniaive, 7 M. to the S.W., lies Craigenpultock,
for many years the home of Thomas Carlyle, who wrote 'Sartor Besartus
here. — 26>/2 M. Sanquhar; 37 M. New Cumnock; 42y2 M. Old Cumnock, the
junction of branches to Ayr (p. 481) on the left, and iluirkirk and Lanark
(p. 480) on the right. The train crosses a lofty viaduct over the Lttgar,
celebrated by Burns. 44V2 M. Auchinleck, with the mansion of the Bos-
well family. — 49 M. Mauchline (Loudoun Arms), where Burns married
Jean Armour, is the junction of another line to Ayr. Burns spent several
of the most important years of his life at Mauchline and at the farm of
Mossgiel, IV2 M. to the N., and wrote here many of his best-known poems.
The 'Braes of Ballochmyle' are !>/* M. to the S.E. of Mauchline.
5872 M. Kilmarnock (George), a busy manufacturing town of 25,000
inhab., possesses an elaborate monument to Burns (adm. 2d.), with a
museum of relics, including MSS. of several of the poet's best-known
poems and all the editions of his works hitherto published. The first
edition of Burns's poems issued from the press at Kilmarnock. A branch-
line diverges here to Troon, Ardrossan (p. 481), and Largs. — The rest of
the route to Glasgow calls for no comment. The expresses run by Barrhead,
the slow trains by Dairy. — 92 M. Glasgow (St. Enoch's Station), see p. 476.
Beyond Dumfries the Stranraer line runs towards the S. —
47 J /2 M. Dalbeattie (Maxwell Arms), a pleasant little town (4000
inhab.), with large granite -quarries and works. 53 M. Castle
Douglas (Douglas Arms), the chief town of Qalloway, with 2600
inhab., lies on the N. side of Carlingwark Loch. Excursions may
be made to (IV2 M.) Threave Castle, (8 M.) Auchencaim, etc.
A braneh-line runs 8. to (10 M.) Kirkcudbright, pron. Kircoobry (Selkirk
Arms 1 Royal), a clean little town (2600 inhab.), at the head of the estuary
of the Dee. About V2 M. to the S. is St, Mary's Isle (/View), now a
 ;

464 Route 64. EDINBURGH.

peninsula, with a heronry. About 6 M. to the S.E. is -Dundrennan Abbey.
A coach (1*. Gd.) plies daily from Kirkcudbright to (8V2 M.) Gatehouse of
Fleet (Murray Arms), a prettily-situated little town.
From (59 1/2 M) Parton, at the foot of Loch Ken, an omnibus
runs to (9 M.) Dairy, a favourite angling-resort. — 62 M. New
Galloway; the town 5 M. to the N. 72 M. Dromore, 6 M. from
lies
Gatehouse of Fleet (see above) 77 M. Creetown, on the E. shore of
Wigtown Bay. — ;

82'/ 2 M. Newtown Stewart ( Galloway Arms

Grapes), with 3000 inhab. prettily situated on the Cree, is a con-
,

venient centre for excursions to (13 M.) *Loch Trool, etc.

Newtown Stewart is the junction of a branch-line to (7 M.) Wigtown
and (19 M.)Whithorn. —Wigtown (Galloway Arms) is a small town (2200
inhab.) on the E. bank of Wigtown Bay. On a commanding site at the
entrance to the town is the Martyr? Memorial, commemorating Margaret
MacLachlan (aged 63) and Margaret Wilson (a girl of 18), two Covenanters
who were tied to stakes on the beach and drowned by the rising tide of
the Solway. They are buried in the pariah-churchyard. —
Whithorn (Grapes)
possesses a ruined Priory Church, believed to occupy the site of the earliest
Christian church in Scotland, built by St. Ninian (366-432).
Near (96 M.) Glenluce are the remains of Luce Abbey (12-13th
cent.). View across Luce Bay to the Mull of Galloway. Farther
on, the direct line from Stranraer to Ayr and Glasgow diverges to
the right. 102V2 M. Castle Kennedy, with Loch Inch Castle, the
seat of the Earl of Stair, and the ruins of Castle Kennedy. The
*Grounds of Castle Kennedy (open on Wed. & Sat.) are remarkable
for their variety of coniferous trees and their 'Dutch Garden'.
106 M. Stranraer ( George; King's Arms), a thriving little seaport
(7000 inhab.), at the head of Loch Ryan, the steamers from which
Lame, 2'/2 brs.). Pleasant
afford the shortest sea-passage to Ireland, (to
excursions may be made in the Rhinns of Galloway, the peninsula
on which Stranraer lies. The railway goes on to (7 M.) Portpatrick
(Downshire Arms). —
From Stranraer to Girvan, Ayr, and Glasgow,
see p. 481.
64. Edinburgh.
Railway Stations. 1. Waverley Station (PI. E, 4), of the North British
Railway, near the E. end of Princes St., for trains to London (via Newcastle
and York, or via Carlisle and Leeds), to Glasgow, and to the N. and E. of
Scotland; also fOT the Suburban Line (see below). — 2. Caledonian Station
(PI. C, 4), at the W. end of Princes Street, for trains to London via Carlisle
and Crewe, to Liverpool and Manchester, to Glasgow and Greenock, and to
the S. and S.W. of Scotland. —
3. Haymarket Station (PI. A, 5), a second
station of the N.B.R., where almost all the trains to and from the W.
stop. — All the principal hotels are within the Is. cab-fare from the
Waverley and Caledonian Stations. —
The Suburban Railway runs from
the Waverley Station to Portobello, Duddingston , Newington, Blackford
Hill, Morningside, Craigloclehart, Gorgie, Haymarket, and (13 M.) Waverley.
Hotels. The best- situated are those in Princes Street, to the W. of
the Waverley Station: — *Rotal (PI. a; D, 3), No. 53; 'Balmoral (PI. b;
D, 4), No. 91 ; 'Windsor (PI. c; D, 4), No. 100; -Palace (PI. g; C, 4), at the
corner of Castle Street; Edinburgh (PI. e; E, 3), No. 36; Clarendon (PI.
h; D, 4), No. 104; Alexandra, Central, between Charlotte St. and Castle St.;
Rutland (PI. m; C, 4), adjoining the Caledonian Station, second-class.
Charges at most of these: R. & A. from 4s., B. 2s. 6d.-3s., D. 4s.-5s. 6cJ.
— Those in Princes Street to the E. of tne Waverley Station are somewhat
cheaper: Royal British (PI. v; E, 3), 22 Princes St., commercial; Don-
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 tramways, EDINBURGH. 64. Route. 465

glas, at the corner of St. Andrew's St.; Bridge, 1 Princes St.; Water-
loo (PI. k; E, 3), 24 Waterloo Place. — The following are first-class Pri-
vate Hotels ('pens'. 10-12*.): Bedford, 83 Princes St. (PI. D, 4); Rox-
burghe (PI. n; C, 4), 38 Charlotte Sq., quiet; Veitch (PI. p; C, 3), 12?
George St. — Commercial Hotels: Imperial (PI. 1; E, 4), Market St., near the
Waverley Station ; "London (PI. f ; E, 3), 2 St. Andrew's Sq. ; Hanover
(PI. x; D, 3), Hanover St.; George (PI. u; D, 3), 21 George St.; Milne
(PI. w; E, 3), 24 Greenside St.; Ship (PI. y; E, 3), 7 East Register St.;
John's (PI. z ; E, 4), 307 High St. ; these last unpretending, R. & A. 2». 6<Z.
— Temperance Hotels: 'Old Waveelet (PI. q; E, 3), 42 Princes St.; Cock-
born (PI. r; E, 4), close to the Waverley Station; New Waverley (PI. s;
E, 3), Darling's Regent (PI. t; E, 3), both in Waterloo PI.; R. & A. at
these from 2s. 6d. — Craiglookhart Hydropathic Establishment, 2 l/z M.
to the 6. W. of Edinburgh, terms 8*. 6d. per day, 52«. 6<J. per week.
Restaurants. Grieve, 21 Princes St. ; Royal, 54 Princes St. ; Albert,
23 Hanover St.; "Littlejohn, 31 Leith St.; Blair, 37 George St.; Daish,
3 St. Andrew St. (these last three also confectioners); "Edinburgh Cafe",
70 Princes St. (no alcoholic liquors); Spiers & Pond, at the Waverley
Station; Rutherford, 5 .Leith St. (for gentlemen only); also at many of the
above-named hotels. — Beer may be obtained at most of these. 'Edinburgh
AW, now little drunk, is sweet and heavy. Wine is generally dear: best
at the bar of the Bodega Co., 7 South St. Andrew St.
Confectioners. "Littlejohn, Daish, Blair, see above; 'Mackie, 108
Princes St.; "Aitchison, 77 Queen St.; MVitie, 24 (Jueensferry St.; Ritchie,
24 Princes St. (shortbread and other Scottish cakes at all these; ices in
summer). "Ferguson ('Edinburgh Rock' and other sweetmeats), Melbourne
PI., at the corner of High St. (PI. E, 4).
Baths. Turkish Baths, 90 Princes St. 0s. 6d.); Pitt Street Baths (PI.
D, 2), with a swimming-basin, on the N. side of the town ; Baths at 12
Nicolson Sq. (PI. F, 5; to the S.). Salt-water Baths at Trinity (p. 474).
Theatres. Lyceum (PI. C, 5), Grindlay St., performances at 8 p. m.;
Royal (PI. E, 3), Leith Walk; Princesses (PI. F, 5), Nicolson St.
Cabs. For 1-2 pers, V* M. 6d., l'/a M. is., each addit. V* M 6<*.; -

luggage above 100 lbs. Gd. extra. By time 2s. per hr. ; drives in the en-
:

virons 3*. per hr. Double fares at night (12 to 7). Fare and a half on
Sun., if ordered at an office.
Tramways. The central point of the excellent Tramway System of
Edinburgh is the Register House (PI. E, 3), whence lines radiate to Leith
(p. 473), Portobello (p. 459), Newington (PI. F, 6), Colinton Road, Morningside
—
(PI. C, 6), Collbridge, etc. (fares l-4<2.). A circular line, starting from the
Register House, runs round the S. half of the city via. the North and South
Bridges, Neicington, Morningside, the Lothian Road, and Princes St. (fare for
the round Gd.; good view of the city from the top of the cars). — Cable
Tramways run from the Mound to Inverleith Row (fares l-2d.; with con-
necting omnibuses to Oranton, Trinity, and Newhaveri) and from Frederick
Street to Stockbridge (PI. B, C, 2) and Comely Bank.
Omnibuses and Coaches, starting from or near the Register House,
run to Cramond, Forth Bridge, and Queensferry, Liberton and Loanhead,
Dalkeith, Roslin, etc. ; and from Coltbridge (tramway-terminus, see above)
to Corstorphine.
City Guides, with badges, 6<*. per hr., 3-5s. per day (unnecessary).
Post & Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3), at the E. end of Princes St.
Steamers from Leith to Aberdeen 4-6 times weekly in summer; to
Aberdour 2-3 times daily to Amsterdam weekly ; to Antwerp weekly ; to
;

Bremen fortnightly; to Christiansand and Copenhagen weekly; to Hamburg

twice weekly; to Hull every Wed. ; to Kirkwall (Orkney) and Lerwick (Shet-
land) twice weekly; to London on Wed., Frid., and Sat. (comp. p. 462);
to Rotterdam once or twice weekly ; to Stirling daily ; to Thurso weekly ; to
Wick twice weekly, etc. Also excursion-steamers in summer to Iforth Ber-
wick, the Bass Rock\ the Isle of May, Elie, etc. —From Granton to Bergen
every Wed. ; to Burntisland (comp. p. 496) several times a day; to the Faroe
Isles and Iceland once a month; to London on Wed. and Sat.
United States Consul, Wallace Bruce, Esq., 8 York Buildings.
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 30
466 Route 64. EDINBURGH. History.

Principal Attractions. Princes Street; Scott Monument; Castle; Lawn-

market, High St., and Canongate; Holyrood; National Qallery; Calton Bill
(view); St. Giles's; St. Mary's Episcopal Cathedral; Museum of Science & Art;
the Queens Drive. These points may all be visited in one long day (9-10 hrs.),
hut those who wish to see Edinburgh to advantage must devote at least
2-3 days to the town itself and 4-5 days to its environs.
Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, and one of the most roman-
tically beautiful cities in Europe, is finely situated on a series of
ridges, separated by ravines, about 2 M. to the S. of the Firth of
Forth (5-6 M. -wide), of which charming views are obtained from the
higher parts of the town. Perhaps no fairer or more harmonious
combination of art and nature is to be found among the cities of
the world, and even the buildings of little or no beauty in them-
selves generally blend happily with the surrounding scenery. The
population, excluding Leith is about 250,000. Edinburgh is the
,

seat of the administrative and judicial authorities of Scotland, and

is renowned for its excellent university and schools. It is also a
great centre of the printing, publishing, and book trades, but has
few important manufactures. The stranger is advised to begin his
acquaintance with the 'Modern Athens' by obtaining a general view
of it from the Castle (best), the top of the Scott Monument, the
Calton Hill, or Arthur's Seat (p. 470).
History. The authentic history of Edinburgh begins about 617, when
Edwin, King of Northumbria, established a fortress on the castle-rock,
round which sprang up the settlement of 'Edwin's Burgh'. In the 10th
cent, the town came into the possession of the Scots (Celts), whose name
for it, 'Dunedin' (i.e., hill of Edwin), did not permanently dispossess the
Saxon form. The early history of the town is practically the history of
the castle, which was a frequent object of contention between the Scots
and the English; and it was not till 1437 that Edinburgh became the cap-
ital of Scotland in place of Perth. The city then increased steadily in
size and importance, but the work of ages was undone by its capture and
destruction by the English in 1544, when the castle, however, made a
successful resistance. The subsequent history of Edinburgh would he
almost tantamount to a history of Scotland, but among the salient points
may be named the scenes accompanying the struggle between Queen Mary
and the Reformers (1555 et seq.) ; the defence of the castle by Kirkaldy of
Grange and its capture by the English in 1573; the capture of the castle
by Cromwell in 1650; the persecution of the Covenanters after the Re-
storation (1660); the removal of the Scottish Parliament to London in 1707;
the Porteous Riot in 1736; and the occupation of the city by Prince Charles
Edward in 1745.
At the close of last and the beginning of the present century Edin-
burgh was the residence of a literary circle of great brilliancy, some idea
of which may be obtained from the mention of David Hume (d. 1776), Adam
Smith (d. 1790), Robertson, the historian (d. 1793), Playfair (d. 1819), Henry
Mackenzie (d. 1831), Robert Burns (d. 1796), Dugald Stewart (d. 1828), Scott,
Wilson, Lockhart, Brougham, Jeffrey, Cockbum, and Chalmers. The 'Edinburgh
Review' was established by Jeffrey, Sydney Smith, and others in 1802.
Edinburgh consists of the picturesque Old Town, familiar to
all readers of Walter Scott, which was rebuilt in the middle of the
16th cent, after a great Are, and of the New Town, to the N.,
which dates its beginnings from 1768. The former, once the seat
of the fashionable world, but now resigned to the poorer classes, is
full of interesting old houses, some of which are remarkable for
 Castle. EDINBURGH. 64. Route. 467

their immense height (10-12 stories). The nucleus of the New

Town 'which is distinguished for its massive style of building,
,

consists of the three parallel thoroughfares: *Princes Street (PI.

C, D, 4, E, 3), perhaps the finest street in Europe (with pleasant
Gardens, open to the public); George Street (PI. C, D, 3); and
Queen Street (PI. C, D, 3). —
Numerous modern suburbs have also
sprung up, particularly to the S. of the Old Town.
In East Princes Street Gardens, near the Waverley Station,
rises the magnificent *Scott Monument (PI. E, 3), erected in 1840
from the design of Kemp, and enclosing a marble statue of Scott
(d. 1832) by Steell. Fine view from the top (adm. 2d.). To the E.
of the Scott Monument is a statue ofLivingstone (A. 1873), the
African traveller; to the W. are statues ofAdam Black, a pro-
minent citizen , and John Wilson ('Christopher North'; d. 1854).
Between the East and West Princes Street Gardens rises the Mound
(PI. D, 4), a huge embankment connecting the New Town with
the Old, at the foot of which stand two handsome buildings in a
classical style the Royal Institution (PI. D, 4) and the National
:

Gallery (PI. D, 4). The former contains an Antiquarian Museum

(open daily, except Mon., 10-4, and on Sat. 7-9 also 6d. on Thurs.
;

& Frid. free on the other days) and a Statue Gallery, with a col-
;

lection of casts (Thurs. & Frid., 10-4, Gd. other days, free). The
•

National Gallery (Mon., Tues., & Wed., 10-5, and Sat, 10-5 and
7-9, free Thurs. and Frid., 10-6, 6<J.) contains a good collection of
;

paintings of the Italian, Spanish, and British Schools, a statue of

Robert Burns (d. 1796) by Flaxman, some wax models by Michael
Angelo, and water-colours by Williams and others (catalogue 6ci.).
The annual Exhibition of the Scottish Academy is held here in spring
(15th Feb. to 15th May adm. Is.).
;
—At the corner of West Princes
Street Gardens next the Mound is a statue of the Scottish poet
Allan Ramsay (A. 1758), whose house stands on the Castle Hill,
in a direct line with the statue and overlooking the gardens.
On the S. side of the valley occupied by the West Princes Street
Gardens rises the *Castle (PI. D, 4; 430 ft.), the ancient seat of
the Scottish kings, grandly situated on the summit of a bold rock,
sloping gradually to Holyrood on the E. but descending almost
perpendicularly on the other three sides. From Princes St. we
ascend the Mound (to the left the Bank of Scotland , p. 468) and
follow the first street to the right, between the Free Church College
and Princes Street Gardens. At the top of the hill we again turn to
the right and cross the Esplanade to the castle-gate (adm. free; in-
terior 10-4 or 11-3).
We enter by a drawbridge, crossing the old moat and passing under
a portcullis, and follow the main road to the highest part of the enclo-
sure, where stand the Grown Room, containing the Scottish Regalia ; Queen
Jfary'i Room, in which James I. of England was horn in 1566; the Old
Parliament Hall (recently restored); and St. Margaret's Chapel, the oldest
building in Edinburgh (ca. 1100). In front of the chapel is l Afons Meg'',
a huge cannon, resembling the 'Dulle Griethe' at Ghent, formerly believed
30*
 ;

468 Route 64. EDINBURGH. St. Giles's Church.

to have been Mons in Belgium, but now ascribed to native skill

cast at
[1455). The other
buildings, chiefly modern barracks and military store-
houses, are not shown. A magnilicent *View of the city and the Firth
of Forth, with the Highland hills in the background, is obtained from
the Bomb Battery and other points. A time-gun is fired daily from
the Half-Moon Battery, at 1 p. m., by electrical communication with the
Observatory on Calton Hill. —The history of the Castle has been indi-
cated at p. 466.
We now follow the series of quaint old streets (Castle Hill,
Lawnmarket, High Street, and Canongate), which descend in a
straight line from the Oastle to (l 1 ^ M.) Holyrood and give some
idea of Old Edinburgh, though many of the most picturesque
houses have lately been removed. The visitor should inspect one
of the characteristic, narrow closes, or wynds, which diverge on
either side (especially on the N.). To the right, at the end of the
Esplanade, stands the Assembly Hall (PI. D, 4), where the General
Assembly of the Church of Scotland takes place in May. The Free
Church Assembly Hall is on the opposite side of the street. Bank
Street, to the left, descends past the Bank of Scotland (PI. E, 4),
a handsome Renaissance building, to Princes St. To the rightis Mel-
bourne Place, containing the Sheriff Court Buildings, and continued
by George IV. Bridge, spanning the Cowgate (p. 471) and leading
to the S. quarters of the town. In George IV. Bridge is the chief
entrance to the new Free Library, which rises from the Cowgate
it was presented to the town by Mr. Andrew Carnegie.
A little farther on rises *St. Giles's Church (PI. E, 4), the ex-
terior of which has suffered from an unskilful restoration in 1829,
while the interior is now of great interest. The chief feature of
the exterior is the Lantern Tower (160 ft. ; 14th cent.), an imi-
tation of that of St. Nicholas at Newcastle (p. 415).
St. Giles's, the oldest parish-church in Edinburgh, now usually styled
'Cathedral', was erected in the 12th cent., on the site of a much earlier
edifice. In 1385, however, the greater part of it was destroyed by fire,
and the present Gothic church was built in 1385-1460. At the Eeformation
the interior of the church was defaced and robbed of its artistic adorn-
ments; after which it was divided by partitions into four separate
churches. In this condition it remained until 1871-83, when, at the instance
and mainly at the cost of Dr. William Chambers (d. 1883), the well-known
publisher, the interior was carefully restored to its original appearance.
The Interior (open, 10-3, adm. 3d.; on Mon., free), 196 ft. in length,
presents an imposing though somewhat cold and bare appearance. The
characteristic Scottish barrel-vaulting should be noticed. The stained-glass
windows are modern. On entering by the handsome new W. Doorway,
we see to the left, enclosed by an iron screen, the Albany Aisle, erected
by the Duke of Albany, son of Robertll., in 1402, in expiation of the mur-
der of his nephew, the Duke of Rothesay. This chapel and the adjoining
Chapel of St. Eloi have modern mosaic floors. Opposite, to the S., is the
Moray Aisle, containing a handsome altar and a modern monument to the
Regent Moray (assassinated in 1570; p. 475); the metal plate is from the
original tomb. To the right of the entrance is the font, after Thorvald-
sen. —The Transept, the oldest part of the church, contains four massive
Norman piers, which support the tower, and may perhaps date from the
original edifice of 1120. — The Chancel contains a tasteful modern pulpit
and the royal pew (in carved oak). The last pillar to the left, with the
arms of James II. and his wife, Mary of Cleves, is called the 'King's Pillar".
 Parliament House. EDINBURGH. 64. Route. 469

In the small adjoining chapel lies Waiter Chepman (A. 1532), the first Scott-
ish printer. The Preston Aisle, to the S. of the choir, is a good specimen
of the Perp. style (15th cent.) The Crypt, helow the S. transept, contains
the remains of the Marquis of Montrose (d. 1661) and the Regent Moray (see
p. 468).
When Charles I. attempted to re-establish the Scottish Episcopal Church,
St. Giles's was made the cathedral of the bishopric of Edinburgh (1634),
and it was here that Jenny Geddes threw her stool at Dean Eanna, who
is commemorated by a brass tablet affixed to one of the pillars in the
nave. [The stool is preserved in the Antiquarian Museum, p. 467.] The
Solemn League and Covenant was signed here in 1643. John Knox often
preached in St. Giles's. — The small shops or booths, which were erected
between the buttresses about 1560, were called Kraimes, and the wares
sold in them Kraimery (comp. German Krdmerei).
Outside the church, to the N.E., is the shaft of the old City
Cross, restored at the expense of Mr. Gladstone in 1886, and
mounted on a new pedestal. —To the N.W. is a figure of a heart
in the pavement, marking the site of the Old Tolbooth, or city
prison, known as the 'Heart of Midlothian'. Close by is a Statue of
the Duke of Buccleueh (d. 1884).
To the S. of St. Giles's is Parliament Square, an open space,
formerly the churchyard, with an Equestrian Statue of Charles II.
Adjacent is a stone inscribed 'I. K. 1572', supposed to mark the
grave of John Knox. On the S. side of the square (entr. in the W.
corner) stands the extensive Parliament House (PI. E, 4), formerly
the place of meeting of the Scottish Parliament, and now the seat
of the Supreme Law Courts of Scotland (open daily, 10-4).
We first enter the "Great Hall, where numerous 'Advocates' in wig
and gown, 'Writers to the Signet', and solicitors may be seen in conference
with their clients. The hall, which has a fine oaken roof, contains statues
and paintings of celebrated Scottish .iurists and statesmen. The large
"Stained Glass Window, executed at Munich from a design by Kaulbach,
represents the foundation of the College of Justice by James V. in 1537.
At the S. end of the Hall is a Corridor, extending 300 ft. towards
the E., from which the different Courts are entered. The door opposite
the entrance to the hall leads to a staircase descending to the Advocates'
Library, the largest library in Scotland, containing upwards of 300,000 vols.,
numerous valuable MSS., a sitting figure of Sir Walter Scott, the MS. of
'Waverley', a copy of the first printed Bible (Fust and Gutenberg), the
Confession of Faith signed by James VI. in 1590, etc. (keeper, Mr. James
Clark). —
Adjacent is the Signet Library, a fine hall with 65,000 vols., be-
longing to the 'Writers to the Signet' (i.e. solicitors, originally clerks of the
Secretary of State, who prepared writs passing under the King's signet).
The Supreme Court of Scotland consists of two Courts of Appeal,
each with 3-4 judges, forming the 'Inner House', and five Courts of first
instance, with one judge each, forming the 'Outer House'. There are in
all 13 judges, at the head of whom are the Lord President and the Lord
Justice Clerk, presiding over the First and Second Divisions respectively
of the Inner House. The Civil Courts sit daily, 10-4, except Mon. ; the Crim-
inal Court for serious offences on Mon. only. The legal vacations last
from 20th Mar. to 12th May, from 20th July to 15th Oct., and for about a
fortnight at Christmas.
In the High St., at the comer of the busy South Bridge Street,
rises theTron Church (PI. E, 4), so called from the old 'Tron', or
town weighing-machine. A beyond the street
little farther on,
known John Knox's House
as the 'Bridges' (p. 471), to the left, is
(PI. F, 4), where the famous preacher lived from 1560 to 1572, re-
 ;

470 Route 64. EDINBURGH. Arthurs Seat.

cognisable by its projecting front (daily, 10-4, adm. 6d). — We

now
enter the Canongate, passing Moray House (now a training-college
PI. F, 4) on the right, and the Canongate Tolbooth (comp. p. 469;
1591), with its clock, on the left. In the churchyard of Canongate
Church (PI. F, 4) lie Adam Smith (d. 1790), Dugald Stewart (d.
1828), and Robert Ferguson (d. 1790; headstone erected by Burns).
At the foot of the Canongate lies *Holyrood Palace (PI. G, 3),
the former residence of the Scottish kings, dating in its present
form mainly from 1670-79 (open 11-6, in winter 11-4; adm. 6d.,
free on Sat.).
The rooms of Mary, Queen of Scots, are still preserved, and contain
some relics of that ill-fated princess. In the vestibule of the audience-
chamber a stain on the floor is pointed out as the blood of Rizzio. The
Picture Gallery consists of a long series of imaginary portraits of Scottish
kings, remarkable for their strong family-likeness.
The palace occupies the site of Bolyrood Abbey, founded in 1128 by
David I. on the spot where he was saved from an infuriated stag by
the interposition of a miraculous cross. The only relics of this edifice
consist of the E.E. ruined church, now called "Bolyrood Chapel. The abbey-
precincts were formerly an inviolable sanctuary for criminals, and its
privileges were maintained in the case of debtors down to the abolition
of imprisonment for debt in 1880.
To the S.E. of Holyrood Palace extends the treeless Queeris
Park (PI. H, 3, etc.), at the foot of Arthur's Seat (822 ft. PI. H, 5),
;

which may be ascended thence in 3/,j-l hr. The path passes the
ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel (PI. H, 4). In fine weather the top
commands an admirable survey of the city, the Firth, the Highland
Mts. to the N.W., and the Pentland Hills to the S.W.
A pleasant road, named the "Queen's Drive, encircles Arthur's Seat
(3 M.), affording a series of changing views. Proceeding to the E. from
Holyrood, we pass in succession 0/2 M.) St. Margaret's Loch, with St. An-
thony's Chapel (see above) above it, and (IV4 M.) Dunsappie Loch. A little
beyond the latter we have a "View to the left, below us, of Duddingston
and Duddingston Loch; to the E. are the sea and the conical North Ber-
wick Law (p. 460); to the S. the Pentland Hills (p. 474).
The Salisbury Crags (PI. G, 4, 5), the curious detached ridge on the
W. side of Arthur's Seat, afford a good view of Edinburgh. Near their
base lies Dumbiedykes (PI. P, 5), the home of Jeanie Deans.
Instead of returning to Holyrood we may leave the Queen's Park by
the S. gate, 1 M. beyond Duddingston, and proceed to (1/2 M.) the suburb
of Newington (beyond PI. F, G, 6), whence we may return to Princes St.
by tramway, by the suburban railway (p. 464), or on foot through the
Meadows (p. 472) and across George IV. Bridge (p. 468). Those who take
the train may alight at Blackford Bill (p. 474), IK. to the W. of Newing-
ton, a public pleasure-ground, affording fine views.
Proceeding to the E. from the Scott Monument (comp. p. 467),
we pass on the right, below the level of the street, the large Wav-
erley Market (PI. E, 3), the roof of which forms a promenade. At
(3 min.) the E. end of Princes St. is the Register House (PI. E, 3),
containing the Scottish archives. In front of it is a Statue of Wel-
lington, by Steell (1852; 'the Iron Duke, in bronze, by Steelf).
Opposite stands the Post Office an imposing Renaissance edifice,
,

completed in 1865. Waterloo Place, with a viaduct crossing the

street below, leads hence to the E., past the Old Calton Burial
 1

University. EDINBURGH. 64. Route. 47

Ground (-with the Martyrs' Monument , the tomb of David Hume,

A. 1776, etc.), to (4 min.) the handsome castellated Prison (PI. F,
3). The steps opposite ascend to the Calton Hill (355 ft. ; PI. E, 3).
To the the top of the steps, is a monument to the philosopher
left, at
Dugald Stewart and a little farther on are the Old and the New
(d. 1828),
Observatory. On the summit of the hill rises the Nelson Monument (102 ft.;
adm. 3d. ; "View from the top); a ball falls here at 1 p. m., when the time-
gun is fired from the castle. Adjoining this tower is the unfinished National
Monument, erected to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo.
At the S.E. base of the Calton Hill, near the Prison, is the
High School (PI. F, handsome building in a Grecian style.
3), a
[Opposite is a footpath descending direct to Holyrood. ] Farther on,
to the right, are Burns' s Monument (adm. 2d.), with a statue of the
poet (d. 1796), and the New Calton Burial Ground (PI. G, 3).
To the S. of the Register House (p. 470), the North Bridge (PI.
E, 3, 4), 300 yds. long and 60 ft. high, crosses the hollow between
the old and new towns, now occupied by the railway ; the view of
the city from the bridge at night, after the lamps are lit, is very
striking. The North Bridge ends at the High St. (comp. p. 469),
beyond which it is continued by the South Bridge (PI. E, 4), crossing
the quaint but uninviting Cowgate, one of the oldest streets in the
town. To the right, a little farther on, is the University (PI. E, 5),
a massive building dating from the end of last century.
The University of Edinburgh was founded by James VI. in 1582, and in
1890 it numbered 41 professors, 10 lecturers, and 26 examiners, besides up-
wards of 50 assistants, and 3600 students. The medical faculty (ca. 2000 stu-
dents) has long, been renowned, and a handsome new "Medical School (PI.
E, in a striking Renaissance style, has lately been erected in Teviot
5),
Row at a cost of about 240,000J. The University Library (open daily 10-4,
in summer 10-3; adm. 6d., for a party is.) contains 160,000 volumes. To —
the E. of the Medical School are the Music Class Room, the Students''
Union, and the new Mc Ewan Hall
(for graduation ceremonials, etc.).
Behind the University, entered from Chambers St., is the large "Mu-
seum of Science and Art (PI. E, 5), founded in 1861, and containing valu-
able and extensive collections of natural history, industrial art, and tech-
nology (open on Mon., Tues., & Thurs., 10-4, fid. ; Wed. 104, and Frid.
& Sat. 10-4 & 6-9, free). —
Opposite the Museum is the Watt Institute it-
School of Art. —
Chambers St. occupies the site of the College Wynd,
in which Walter Scott was born in 1771.
Sir
Lothian on the S. side of the University, leads westward
Street,
to the University New Buildings in Teviot Row (see above), and
to Lauriston Place (PI. D, E, 5), with the magnificent new Infirmary
(PI. E, 5), consisting of several detached buildings in the Scottish
baronial style. It cost 350-400,0002., and accommodates nearly
8000 patients yearly. To the right is *Heriot's Hospital (PI. D, E, 5),
founded for the maintenance and education of fatherless boys by
George Heriot (d. 1624), goldsmith and banker to James VI. (see
'Fortunes of Nigel'). The handsome building, long attributed to
Inigo Jones, was designed by Wm. Aytoun (adm. 11-3, daily, ex-
cept Sat. & Sun. tickets from the Treasurer, 21 St. Andrew's Sq.).
;

The Heriot Schools, in different parts of the city, founded with the
surplus funds of the Hospital, are attended by about 6000 children. —
Among other similar schools are Gillespie's Hospital School (PI. C, 6),
472 Route 64. EDINBURGH. Dean Bridge.

Gilmore Place; Stewart's Hospital, Queensferry Road (PI. A, 3); Donaldson's

Hospital (p. 473); and the Merchant Company's Schools for boys and girls.
The Meadow Walk (PI. E, 5, 6), running to the S. between the
University New Buildings and the Infirmary, leads to the Mbadows
(PI. D, E, 6), an extensive recreation-ground, where the Interna-
tional Exhibition of 1886 was held. — At No. 25 Georgb Square
(PI. E, 5, 6) took place the only interview between Scott and Burns.
We may now return to High St. and Princes St. by George IV.
Bridge (p. 468), at the beginning of which, to the left, is old Orey-
friars' Church (PI. E, 5), in the graveyard of which the 'Solemn
League and Covenant' was signed in 1638.
Among the tombs in the churchyard are those of George Buchanan
(d. 1582), George Heriot (d. 1624), Allan Ramsay (d. 1768), Henry Mackenzie
(d. 1831 ; the 'Man of Feeling'), and Robertson (d. 1793), the historian of
Charles V. The 1200 prisoners taken at the Battle of Eothwell Brig (1679;
p. 480) were confined here, and suffered great privations.
On regaining Princes St. we turn to the left to visit the W.
,

part of the town. Among the handsome buildings to the right are
several hotels and club-houses. To the left, in West Princes Street
Qardens (PI. G, D, 4 ; band once a week in summer), which occupy
1

the place of the old Nor Loch, is a sitting figure of Sir James
Y. Simpson (d. 1870), the discoverer of the properties of chloro-
form. At the end of the street, on the same side, is St. John's
Episcopal Church (PI. C, 4), adjoining which is an Iona cross to the
memory of Dean Ramsay (d. 1876). In the hollow behind St. John's
is St. Cuthberfs or the West Church (PI. C, 4), the graveyard of
which contains the last resting-place of Thomas de Quincey (d. 1859).
— Opposite St. John's is the Caledonian Railway Station (p. 464).
From this point Queensferry Street leads to the right to (6 min.)
the *Dean Bridge (Pl.B, 3; 105 ft. high), which crosses the Water
of Leith and commands a fine view. Beyond the bridge we pass
Trinity Church and several handsome terraces and follow the Queens-
ferry Road, which soon bends to the left. To the right we have a
fine view of the Firth of Forth, with the imposing pile of Fettes
College, a high-class school for boys, in the foreground. About
300 yds. farther on a lane diverges on the left to the (3 min.) N.E.
entrance of the *Dean Cemetery (PI. A, 3), containing the graves
of Jeffrey, Oockburn, Wilson, Alison, and other eminent Scotsmen.
Passing through the cemetery, we leave it by the S. gate, beyond
which we cross the bridge to the left, and return by the old Queens-
ferry Road to (8 min.) Queensferry St. (see above).
Melville Street, the second cross-street on the right, leads from
Queensferry St. to (5 min.) *St. Mary's Cathedral (PI. B, 4), a fine
E.E. edifice, 260 ft. long, generally considered the master-piece
of Sir O. O. Scott. It belongs to the Scottish Episcopal Church,
and was erected in 1874-79 at a cost of upwards of 110,0002. The
^Interior (services at 11 and 5) is specially imposing and challenges
comparison with some of the older cathedrals. The Central Spire
(295 ft. high) seems rather large in proportion to the rest of the
 Botanic Garden. EMNBUMjH. 64. Route. 473

building, but may lose this appearance when the W. Towers are
erected. The church stands in the centre of the fashionable West
End District, a handsome and substantially-built quarter.
About V« M. to the W.
of this point is "Donaldson's Hospital (adm.
on Tnes. &Frid., 2-4), erected and endowed for the maintenance and edu-
cation of 300 children, one-third of whom are deaf and dumb, by Alexander
Donaldson (d. 1830), a printer, who left 200,0002. for this purpose.
From Queensferry St. (seep. 472) a passage leads to the E., past
the somewhat heavy Church of St. George (PI. C, 4), into Charlotte
Square, which is adorned with an equestrian *Statue of Prince
Albert (d. 1861), by Steell. From Charlotte Square we follow (to
the E.) the wide and handsome George Street, soon crossing
(3 min.) Castle Street (PI. C, 3, 4), at No. 39 in which (between
GeoTge St. and Queen St., E. side) Sir Walter Scott lived from 1800
to 1826. At the intersection of the streets rises a statue of Thomas
Chalmers (d. 1847), by Steell. Farther on in George St. are statues
of Pitt and George IV. (by Chantrey), the Union and Commercial
Banks and the Music Hall (on the right), and St. Andrew's Church
(PI. D, 3; on the left). The street ends at St. Andrew's Square
(PI. E, 3), with the Melville Monument and several handsome Banks,
whence we return through St. Andrew's St. to Princes St.
At the E. end of Queen Street (PI. D, 3) is the new Scottish
National Portrait Gallery, opened in 1888.
The gallery (adm. on Mon., Tues., & Frid. free; Thurs. & Sat. 6d.)
now contains about 150 portraits, a collection of casts from the antique,
engraved prints of Scottish historical characters and French engravings of
the 17-18th cent, (from the bequest of the late Mr. W. F. Watson), and a
series of drawings of Old Edinburgh by James Drummond. — The building,
which cost 50,0002., was presented by Mr. John E. Findlay.
In Inverleith Row, on the N. side of the town, reached from
Princes St. via Hanover St., DundasSt., andPittSt. (cable tramway),
lies the (1^2 M *Botanic Garden (PI. C, 1 open daily, incl. Sun.),
;

with a laTge palm-house. The garden commands an admirable

*View of Edinburgh. Adjacent is the Arboretum (PI. B, 1). Not
far off is the Warriston Cemetery (beyond PI. D, 1) ,where Sir
James Simpson (p. 472) is buried. About V2M. to the W. is Fettes
College (p. 472). By turning to the left at the end of Inverleith
Row, and then to the right, we reach (IV2 M. from the Botanic
Garden) Granton (see p. 474).
Among other points of interest in Edinburgh are the Qrastmarhet
(PI. D, 5), the scene of the Porteous Riots in 1736; the Grange Cemeteby,
to the S., with the graves of Dr. Chalmers (d. 1847), Dr. Guthrie (d. 1873),
and Hugh Miller (d. 1856); and Merchitton Castle, to the S.W., the birth-
place of Napier (d. 1617), the inventor of logarithms, now a boys' school.
Near Merchiston station , on the Caledonian Railway, is the site of the
International Electrical Exhibition of 1890 (also reached by the suburban
railway, p. 464, or by tramway).
About 2 M. to the N. of Edinburgh, but now connected with it
by continuous lines of street, lies its harbour Leith (beyond PI. F,
G, 1), a bustling seaport with 70,000 inhab. and extensive Docks.
Its two *Piers, each %
M. long, afford a fine view of the Firth of
474 Route 64. EDINBURGH. Excursions.

Forth, enlivened with shipping and bounded by the coast of Fife

(ferry between the pier-heads Id.). The Trinity House, erected
in 1816 on the site of an older building, contains some models of
ships, a large *Painting, by David Scott, of Vasco da Gama rounding
the Cape of Good Hope, and an old portrait of Mary, Queen of
Scots. — Steamers from Leith, see p. 465.
About l l /i M. to the W. of Leith (tramway via Junction Road)
is the quaint fishing- village of Newhaven (Peacocklnn, fish-dinner
2s. 6d.), inhabited by a fisher-folk of Scandinavian origin, who
rarely marry out of their own circle and have preserved most of their
ancient customs. The costume of the 'fish-wives' is very picturesque.
A little to the W. of Newhaven is Trinity, a colony of villas,
with a Chain Pier, which is a favourite resort of swimmers (adm.
Id., towel Id.). Trinity is contiguous to Granton, a modern seaport,
with three magnificent Piers, constructed by the Duke of Buccleuch
at a cost of 150,000t. (fine *View from the E. pier). The traffic
here, however, is very inferior to that of Leith. Steamers, see
p. 465. A
pleasant walk may be taken from Granton to the W. by
a rough road skirting the coast; at the (IV2 M.) point where the
road ceases we may turn to the left and return to (4M.) Edinburgh.
Leith, Newhaven, Trinity, and Granton are all connected with
Edinburgh by railway, tramway, or omnibus.
Excursions from Edinburgh.
1. On a hill 1>/2 M. to the S. of the suburb of Newington (p. 470) stand
the ruins of Craigmillar Castle, built in 1437, a favourite residence of
Mary, Queen of Scots.
2. About 3 M. to the W. of Edinburgh lies Corstorphine, reached by
the street passing Haymarket Stat. (p. 464) and Donaldson's Hospital (p. 473;
coach, see p. 465). At the beginning of the village we may turn to the right
and cross "Corstorphine Hill (475 ft.; views of the Forth and the Highland
hills) to (2 M.) the Queensferry Road (p. 472) , whence we return via the
(3 M.) Dean Bridge (p. 472) to Edinburgh. —
Walkers should diverge from
the road, to the right, about 1/4 M. above Corstorphine, and follow a foot-
pith leading to (18 min.) the view-point "'Best and be Thankful\ which
commands a charming view of Edinburgh and the Firth. — We
then
descend (views) to (8 min.) a carriage-road, which we follow to the right
to (2 M.) the W. end of Princes St. (or, a pleasanter route, we follow the
road to the left fur a short way and then turn to the right, 2V2 M.).
3. Blackford Hill (station on the Suburban Railway) , adjoining the
city on the S., to the W. of Newington, has recently been acquired as a
public park. The *View from it is described in a well-known passage ot
'Marmion'. (Comp. p. 470.)
4. The Pentland Hills , which extend to the S. W. of Edinburgh,
afford numerous pleasant rambles. The highest summits are Scald Law
(1898 ft.) and Carnethy (1890 ft.), two good points of view (see Map). The
most convenient way to reach the Pentlands is to take the train (Cale-
donian Stat.) to (3V2 M.) Colinton, (6 M.) Currie, or (7 l h M.) Balerno (comp.
Map) ; or they may be approached on foot or by carriage through Morning-
side (pp. 464, 465) and over the Braid Hills (700 ft.).
5. From Edinburgh to Hawthoenden and Koslin (1 day). Train
from Waverley Station (p. 464) to (11 M.) Hawthornden in 1/2 hr. 'Haw- —
thornden (open daily in summer, 10-6; adm. Is), charmingly situated on
the bank of the North Esk, was the home Drummond, the friend
of the poet
of Shakespeare and Ben Jonson. From the house we walk through a ro-
mantic wooded glen to p/« hr.) Roslin Castle (adm. 6d.), the ancient seat
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T H
 LINLITHGOW. 65. Route. 475
of the St. Claire, celebrated in Scott's 'Rosabelle', an outside view of which
may suffice. Close by is "Eoslin Chapel (adm. 1«.; service on Sun. at
noon and 6 p. m.), founded in 1446 as the choir of a collegiate church
(which was never finished), and remarkable for its profuse decoration, the
style of which is generally believed to be Spanish. The ''Prentice Pillar''
owes its name to a legend not unknown elsewhere. —
Near the chapel is
the Royal Hoiel. We
may now return to Edinburgh by coach (7 M. ; fare 1*.),
generally starting about 3.30 or 4 p. m., or by train from Roslin Station.
Those who prefer to make the round in the reverse direction may leave
Edinburgh by the coach starting for Roslin at 10 a. m. The railway com-
pany issues circular tickets (fares 2s. 2d., U. 9d.), which are available for
the stations at Roslin, Hawthomden, Rosslynlee, Mosslyn Cattle, and Polton.
One of the coaches also makes a circular tour (is. Gd.).
6. Fkom Edinbebgh to Dalkeith (6M.; coach or railway, comp.p.459).
The small town of Dalkeith (6400 inhab.) is uninteresting. To the N. is
'Dalkeith Palace , the seat of the Duke of Buccleuch, containing a valu-
able collection of portraits and other paintings. The house and "Park are
open to visitors on Wednesdays. —
Newbattle Abbey (p. 459) is 1 M. to the S.
7. FBom Edinbubgh
to Queensfebry, 9M., railway from Waverley
Station (to Forth Bridge) in 18-33 min. (fares Is. Id., 9>/2<i.). South —
Queensferry ( Queen sferry Arms), with HOOinhab., the starting-point of the
gigantic Forth Bridge (p. 495), is said to derive its name from Margaret,
consort of Malcolm Canmore (see below). —
About 272 M. to the W. is Hope-
toun House, the seat of the Earl of Hopetoun. with a fine park ("Views),
open to the public. The village of Dalmeny, l 1/* M. to the E. of Queens-
ferry, possesses an ancient Norman church. It is adjoined by "Dalmeny Park
(open), belonging to the Earl of Bosebery, with Dalmeny House and Barn-
bougie Castle, the latter incorporating ancient remains (station, see below).
— Queensferry may also be reached from Edinburgh by coach (see p. 465;
fare Is. ; on Sun., return 3*.).
Among other points easily reached from Edinburgh in one day are
Melrose and Dryburgh (eomp. pp. 457, 458); Burntisland and Aberdour (p. 496);
the Trossachs (see B. 66); North Berwick (p. 459); Linlithgow (see below);
Dunfermline (p. 500); Stirling (p. 484).

65. From Edinburgh to Glasgow.

a. North British Railway.
47 M. Railway from Waverley Station in l'hr. 10 min. to 2hrs. (fares
5s. Gd 2s. Gd. ; return-fares 9s. Gd., 4s. ; express 6s. Gd.).
,

After leaving Haymarket (p. 4641 the train passes (372M.) Cor-
storphine (p. 474) and (6 M.) Oogar. 8 M. Ratho, the junction of aline
to Kirkliston, Dalmeny (see above), and Forth Bridge. 12 M. Winch- —
burgh, the junction of a new line to the Forth Bridge for the traffic to
and from Glasgow and the West of Scotland. —
1472 M. Philipstoun.
1772 M. Linlithgow (Star $ Garter), an old town with 4000
inhah., was long a favourite residence of the Scottish kings. The
*Palacb (adm. 10-5 fee), visible from the railway (to the right),
;

dates in its present form from the 14-17th centuries. Queen Mary
was born here in 1542, and the Regent Moray, who was shot in the
streets of the town, died here in 1670. St. MichaeVs Church, ad-
joining the Palace, founded by David I. (12th cent.), is a large edifice
of various periods, from Norman to Perpendicular.
22 M. Polmont is the junction of the line to Stirling (p. 484).
— 2572 M. Falkirk (Red Lion) a busy town of 13,200 inhab.,
,

with iron-works and coal-pits. 'Falkirk Trysts' are large cattle-

fairs. Wallace was defeated by Edward I. at the battle of Falkirk
 —

176 Route 65. GLASGOW. Theatres.

in 1298, and Prince Charles Stuart defeated the English here in

1746. — Beyond (45V2M.)Cowlairs we descend a steep gradient
through a long tunnel and enter the (47 M.) Queen Street Station
of Glasgow (see below).

b. Caledonian Railway.
46 M. Railway in 1 hr. 5 min. to 2 hrs. (fares, see p. 475).
This line passes through a busy iron-working district, the lights
of which are imposing at night. Among the chief stations, which
possess little interest for the tourist, are 10 M. Midcalder (from
:

which the Firth of Forth and the Highland hills may be seen on a
clear day) ;16 M. West Calder, the centre of an extensive paraffin
oil industry 33 M. Holytown; 41 M. Cambuslang ; 43 M. Rutherglen.
;

— At (46 M.) Glasgow (see below) the trains stop at Eglinton

Street or Bridge Street before running into the Central Station.
Glasgow. —
Railway Stations. 1. North British or Queen Street Station
(PI. F, 3), Dundas St., for trains to Edinburgh and the North, London
(via York), Helensburgh, Loch Lomond, Hamilton, etc. —
2. Caledonian
Central Station (PI. E, 4), Gordon Str., for Edinburgh, London (via Carstairs
and Carlisle), Paisley, Greenock, Hamilton, etc. —
3. St. Enoch's (PI. F, 5),
of the G. & S. W. R., St. Enoch's Sq., for Paisley, Greenock, Ayr, Carlisle
and London via Dumfries, etc. —
4. Buchanan Street (PI. F, 2, 3), the Cale-
donian terminus for trains to Oban, Perth, and the N. —
5, 6. Bridge Street
(PI. E, 5) and Eglinton Street (comp. PI. E, 6) are secondary stations for the
S. trains of the Caledonian Railway. —
7. College Street (PI. G, 4), a secon-
dary N. B. station. —
8. Main Street (comp. PI. F, 6), Gorbals, for trains
running S. from St. Enoch's. —
The Glasgow City <k District Railway (un-
derground) runs E. and W. from Queen St. Station, affording rapid access
to the Cathedral (College Stat.), the University and West End Park (Charing
Cross Stat.), and the West End suburbs (Hyndland Stat.).
Hotels. 'Central (PI. b; E, 4), at the Central Station; St. Enoch's
(PI. a; F, 5), at St. Enoch's Station; two large railway hotels, R. & A.
from 4s., D. is. Gd. —
'George (PI. c; F, 4), George Sq., near the N. B. R.
Terminus; 'Maclean's (PI. i; D, 3), 260 St. Vincent St.; Gkand Hotel (PI.
k; C, D, 2), Charing Cross (W. end); R. & A. at these 4-5s., D. 3-5*. —
Royal (PI. d; F, 4), Crown (PI. h; F, 4), George Sq.; Hanover, Hanover
St. (PI. F, 3); North British Imperial (PI. g; F, 4), at the corner of
George St. and George Sq.; Victoria, 15 West George St. (PI. E, 3);
Alexandra (PI. 1; E, 3), Bath (PI. m; E, 3), Bath St.; Steel's (PI r; F, 4),
5 Queen St.; Bridge Street Station (PI. q; E, 5). —
Temperance Motels:
Washington, Waverley (PL s; E, 3), Sauchiehall St.; Cockburn (PI. t;
E, 3), 141 Bath St.; R. at these Is. Gd.-Zs. Gd., A. 9rf.-ls., D. 2s. Gd.
Restaurants. "'Lang, 73 Queen St.; "Ferguson & Forrester (Prince of
Wales), 36 Buchanan St. Brown, 83 St. Vincent St. Queen's, 70 Buchanan
; ;

St.; Forrester,7GordonSt.; Watson d-Blane, West George St.; Assafrey, St.

Vincent St. and 171 Sauchiehall St. at the Central and St. Enoch Hotels.
;

Post & Telegraph Office (PL F, 4), George Sq. Numerous branch-offices.
Theatres. Theatre Royal (PI. E, 3), Cowcaddens; Royalty (PL E, 3),
Gaiety (PL F, 3), Sauchiehall St. (operettas and burlesques) ;" Grand (PL
E, 2), Cowcaddens (melodrama); Princess's, Main St., Gorbals (PL F, 6).
St. Andrew's Music Ball, Berkeley St. (classical concerts in winter) Queen's
Rooms, at the W. end of Sauchiehall St. (concerts, halls, etc.). —
;

Heng-
ler's Cirque, Bothwell St., near the Central Station.
Exhibitions. An Annual Exhibition of Modem Paintings is held in the
Institute of Fine Arts, Sauchiehall St. —
Corporation Galleries, see p. 479.
Cabs. From one station to another, or into the town, Is. for 1-3 pers.,
112 lbs. of luggage included; each addit. pers. Gd. —
By time: for the
first >/2 hr. Is. Gd. ; each y« hr. addit. Gd.
Vaguer & Debes' Geog! EstaV.Letpsic.
 Steamers. GLASGOW. 65. Route. 477
Tramways traverse most of the chief streets and run to the suburbs.
— The Omnibuses are few in number and of little use to the stranger.
Steamers ply from Glasgow to all parts of Great Britain and Ireland,
and indeed to all parts of the world. [The first 2 hrs. of the river-
journey may be avoided by proceeding by train to Qreenock or Qourock
(comp. p. 487 ; 3/t-i hr.). Those, however, who wish to make an acquain-
tance with the port of Glasgow and its long series of ship-building yards,
with the deafening din of their hammers, should sail the whole way.] From
Greenock to Belfast daily in 8 hrs. (12s. 6d.; comp. p. 482); to Dublin daily
in 18 hrs. (15s.); to Fort William and Inverness daily in summer; to Liv-
erpool 4-5 times weekly in 15 hrs. (12s. 6d.), etc. Innumerable river-steam-
ers ply to the watering-places on the estuary of the Clyde and its ramifica-
tions (comp. p. 480).
Harbour Steamers ('Cluthas'), affording an excellent view of the
harbour and quays, ply between Victoria Bridge and Meadowiide (Partick)
every l /t hr. from 8 a.m. to 8.12 p.m., on Sat. & holidays till 9.12 p.m. (Id.).
Principal Attractions: Cathedral (p. 478); Broomielaw (p. 478); Walk
through Buchanan St. and Argyle St. (p. 479) ; University (p. 479).
Glasgow, the commercial and industrial capital of Scotland and
the second city of the kingdom, with (1890) about 800,000 inhab.
(including the suburbs), lies on the Clyde, on the site of an episco-
pal see founded by St. Mungo in 560, and rivals Liverpool in its
shipping trade and Manchester in its manufactures.
Among the numerous industries of Glasgow the most characteristic and
important is its Iron and Steel Ship Building, in which it is facile prin-
ceps among British towns. Two-thirds of all British steamers are built on
the Clyde, or at least provided there with their engines. The largest sea-
going steamers and fast river-boats are alike built here ; and in 1889 about
250 iron and steel vessels of about 335,200 tons burden were launched
, ,

from the Clyde ship-building yards. The first steam-engine was constructed
at Glasgow by James Watt, a native of the town, in 1763; and the first
steamer on this side of the Atlantic was placed on the Clyde by Henry Bell
in 1812 and plied between Glasgow and Greenock. In 1888 Glasgow poss-
essed a fleet of 945 steamers of 695,536 tons burden and 583 sailing-vessels
of 483,164 tons. Among the chief industrial establishments in or near Glas-
gow are the St. Rollox Chemical Works (PI. G, 2) , occupying 15 acres of
ground, with a chimney 435 ft. high (over-topped, however, by a neighbouring
chimney of 455 ft., which is probably the highest in the world) ; the Steel Co.
of Scotland's Works at Newton (railway from Central Station in y* hr.) and
at Blochairn; and the ship-building yards at Govan. The Singer Manu-
facturing Co. of New York has huge works at Kilbowie (20 min. by train
from Queen St. Stat.). The other chief products and industries of Glasgow
include iron, cotton, and woollen goods, chemicals, sewing-machines,
thread, tubes and boilers, calico-printing, glass, pottery, bleaching, dyeing,
and muslin-weaving. The coal-traffic is also immense.
Glasgow is one of the best governed cities in Great Britain; and in
the Century for March, 1890, Mr. Albert Shaw praises it highly for its 'broad,
bold, and enlightened policy as regards all things pertaining to the health,
comfort, and advancement of the masses of the citizens'. The gas and
water works, tramway lines, parks, etc., are under the management of the
Corporation, which has also established model lodging-houses and public
baths and wash-houses, and in other ways busied itself with the sanitary
well-being of the city. — The admirable water-supply is derived from Loch
Katrine (p. 487), 42 M. distant. Nearly 2Va millions sterling have been
expended upon the works, which are now being extended.
The *Harbour and Socks of Glasgow are always thronged with
vessels from all the corners of the earth. About half-a-century ago
the Clyde at Glasgow was only 180 ft. wide and 3 ft. deep ; now,
by continual dredging, it has been made 480 ft. wide and 24-28 ft.
478 Route 65. GLASGOW. Cathedral.

deep, allowing the largest vessels to unload here. Between 1845

and 1889 upwards of 4,750, 000J. have been spent on the harbour
and dock works, and more than 35,000,000 cubic yards of material
have been dredged from the river-bed. The water- area of the
harbour (which extends along the river for 2 J /2 M.) and the docks
is 160 acres; the total length of the quays is upwards of 6 M.
In 1889 the port was entered by 16,900 vessels (chiefly steamers),
with an aggregate burden of 3,410,591 tons. The customs dues
amount to about l,000,000t. Most of the river passenger-steamers
start from the *Broomielaw (PI. D, E, 5) ,
a quay 800 ft. long, on
the N. side of the river, just below Glasgow Bridge (PI. F, 5 * View ;

of the harbour) and the bridge of the Caledonian Railway. A little

to the S.E. , adjoining the river, is the open space known as Glas-
gow Green (PI. G, H, 6) with Nelson's Monument.
, —
The High
Street (PI. G , 4 ,
5) , leading to the Cathedral was the chief
,

thoroughfare of the old city of St. Mungo and has recently been
much improved. The old College is now a goods-station. At the
point where the street sweeps to the right and begins to ascend,
,

Wallace defeated a detachment of the English in 1300.

The *Cathedral (PI. H, 3 open daily 10-6; onTues. andThurs.
;

2d., other days free), situated on the N.E. side of the town, is a fine
edifice, dating from the 12-15th cent, and mainly in the E.E. style.
The Sunday services are at 11 a.m.and2p.m. The building is 320 ft.
long, 70 ft. wide, and 90 ft. high; the tower is 220 ft. in height.
Interior (fine organ). The Nave (14th cent.) has a flat timber ceiling.
The windows throughout the church have been rilled with modern stained
glass, chiefly from Munich, at a cost of 100,000?. The Choir, separated
from the nave by a carved screen, is a good specimen of E.E., probably
dating from early in the 13th century. Behind the choir are the Lady
Chapel and Chapter House. Below the choir is the "Crypt, the chief glory
of the Cathedral, a charmingly proportioned structure, with fine vaulting.
Its 65 pillars are surmounted by exquisitely carved capitals. On the N.
side is the tomb of Edward Irving (d. 1834), of whom a portrait appears,
as John the Baptist, in the window above.
Glasgow Cathedral is frequently referred to in 'Rob Boy', and the
classical description of it is undoubtedly that of Andrew Fairservice.

To the left of the Cathedral stands the Royal Infirmary (PI. H, 3).
In the vicinity, in front of the handsome Barony Church (PI. H,
3, 4), is a statue of Dr. Norman Macleod (d. 1872), by Mossman.
On a height to the E. of the Cathedral is the *Necropolis (PI.
H, 4), the chief cemetery of the town, containing numerous sub-
stantial monuments, the most conspicuous of which is the column
to the memory of John Knox (p. 469). Near it is the grave of Sheri-
dan Knowles (d. 1862). Fine views.
From the Cathedral we proceed through High St. and George
St. to George Square (PI. F, 4), the finest open space in the city,
surrounded by the new Municipal Buildings (E.), the Post Office
(S.), the Bank of Scotland, the Merchants' House (W.), several
Hotels, and other substantial buildings.
In the centre of the square rises a column 80 ft. high, surmounted
 ;

University. GLASGOW. 65. Route. 479

by a statue of Sir Walter Scott. Adjacent are equestrian statues, by Maro-
chetti, of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The other statues are those
of Sir John Moore (d. 1809), by Flaxman Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde (d. 1863),
-,

by Foley; James Watt (d.1819), by Chantrey; Sir Robert Peel (d.1860), by

Mossman; William Pitt (d. 1806), by Flaxman; Dr. Graham, by Brodie;
Robert Burns (d. 1796), by Ewing; Thomas Campbell (d. 1844), by Mossman;
James Oswald, by Marochetti; and Dr. Livingstone (d.1873), by Mossman.
In Queen St., to the S. of George Sq., stands the Royal Ex-
change (PI. F, 4), in the Corinthian style. In front is an Equestrian
Statue of the Duke of Wellington, by Marochetti. The Mitchell Lib-
rary, in Ingram St. (PI. F, 4), contains 70,000 volumes.
The busiest streets are Argyle Street (PI. D, E, 4) Buchanan
,

Street (PI. F, 3, 4), Union Street (PI. E, 4), and Sauchiehall Street
(PI. D, E, 3) which contain the most attractive shops. Argyle
,

St. is continued towards the E. by the Trongate , with the Iron

Church (PI. G, 6; comp. p. 469), which ends at the Cross (PL G, 5).
From the Cross the Saltmarket , the home of Bailie Nicol Jarvie,
runs southwards to the river.
Sauchiehall St. is a long street joining the E. and W. quarters
of the town. On the N. side of it (No. 270) are the *Corporation
Galleries (PI. E, 3), containing 500 pictures, including specimens
of Rembrandt, Rnysdael, and Venetian masters (adm. free, 10 till
dusk, on Sat. till 9). Among the statues is one of Pitt, by Flaxman.
From the W. end of Sauchiehall St. we may enter the pretty West
End Park (Pl.B, 2), with its Museum. On the hill to theW. of the
park, on the other side of the Kelvin, rises *Glasgow University
(PI. A, B, 1), founded in 1450 or 1451 and transferred in 1870 to its
present magnificent quarters , designed by Sir G. G. Scott (E.E.
domestic style, with Scoto-Flemish features of later date). The
buildings form a huge rectangle, 630 ft. long and 295 ft. wide,
divided into two by the handsome Common Hall, erected at the
expense of the Marquis of Bute (p. 193). The Central Tower, 200 ft.
high, is surmounted by a spire of 100 ft. more. The total cost was
about 500,000i. The fine 17th cent. Gateway of the old college
(p. 478) has been re-erected, in a slightly modified form, at the
entrance to the University grounds. The University possesses a
library of 120,000 vols., and contains the Hunterian Museum (11-4
6<2.), with its famous anatomical collection. The number of stu-
dents is 2300 ; of professors, lecturers , and assistants 60. — A
little to the W. is the huge Western Infirmary (PL A, 1), and a
little to the N. are the Botanic Gardens (beyond PL B, 1 ; adm. 6cJ.),
with a large circular conservatory. —
The terraces and streets in
this part of the town are very handsome and substantial.
The S. part of the town is a busy manufacturing district; the
S. W. part is mainly residential, with the large Queen's Park, com-
manding a *View of the city and the new Victoria Infirmary.
,

Adjacent is Langside, where the Regent Moray defeated the forces

of Queen Mary in 1568 (memorial). The ruins of Cathcart Castle,
whence the Queen watched the fortunes of the battle, lie IV2 M.
480 Route 65. GLASGOW. Excursions.

to the S. — A pleasant walk through the suburbs may he taken by

following the Qreat Western Road (PI. 0, D, 1) to Anniesland Toll,
proceeding thence to Canniesburn and Bearsden, and returning by
Maryhill ; or we may go by the Queen's Park (p. 479) and Mount Flor-
ida to Cathcart (p. 479), returning by Langside and Shawlands.

'Excursions.
Glasgow stands almost unrivalled among the towns of Great Britain
for the number, charm, and variety of the excursions that may be made
from it. The estuary of the Clyde alone is an almost inexhaustible field
(comp. p. 477), and most of the circular tours referred to at p. 451 may
be begun at Glasgow.
1. To Hamilton (1 day), 11 M., railway from the Central, Bridge St.,
—
or Queen St. Station in i/2- 8/« hr. (fares Is., 7 l /zd.). Hamilton (Royal;
County; Douglas; Clydesdale), a prosperous little town with 18,000 inhab.,
pleasantly situated near the confluence of the Avon and the Clyde, is a
favourite summer-resort of the Glasgowegians. Close to the town on the N.
is Hamilton Palace (adm. only by special permission) , the magnificent
seat of the Duke of Hamilton, which formerly contained (down to 1882)
one of the finest art-collections in the kingdom. The large Park (open
on Tues. and Frid.) contains the imposing ducal Mausoleum. —About 2 M.
to the S.E. of Hamilton on the left bank of the Avon, are the picturesque
,

ruins of Cadzow Castle, the subject of a well-known ballad by Scott. Cadzow

Forest, with its patriarchal oaks, contains a herd of wild white cattle, sur-
vivals of an ancient British race met with here and at ChiUingham (p. 416)
only. Opposite Cadzow Castle, on the other side of the Avon, is the sum-
mer-chateau of Chatelheraull built by the Duke of Hamilton in 1732 in
,

imitation of the house from which he took his French title, hut little more
than a facade. About 2 M. to the N. of Hamilton is Bothwell Brig, where
the Covenanters were defeated by the Royalists in 1679. The village of
Bothwell (Clyde Hotel), with the villas of numerous Glasgow merchants, is
'P. farther on (train from Hamilton). On the Clyde, a/4 M. to the N.W.
of the village, is the picturesque ruin of "Bothwell Castle, the home of
the Earl of Bothwell, husband of Queen Mary (open on Tues. & Frid.,
10-3). We may return by train from Bothwell to Glasgow in 35 min. —
This excursion may be combined with the next (one night out) by pro-
ceeding by train from Hamilton to (9V2 M.) Tillietudlem, with the ruins of
the castle (Craignethan) immortalised in Old Mortality, and going on thence
to (6 M.) Lanark (see below), taking Stonebyres (see below) on the way;
or we may go by coach direct to (14'/2 M.) Lanark.
2. To the Falls of Clyde (one day). Railway from the Central Sta-
tion to Lanark (26 M.) in l'A-2 hrs. Circular tickets (7s. 3d., 4s. 9d),
available in either direction, are issued for a combination of this route
with Tillietudlem (see above); train to Lanark; coach to Crossford via
Corehouse, Kirkfieldbank, and Stonebyres (6 M.); footpath to (IV2 M.) Tillie-
tudlem. —Lanark (Black Bull; Clydesdale), a small town with 5000 In-
hab. , was the scene of the earliest exploits of William Wallace (13th
cent.). From 1784 onwards it was the home of Robert Owen, the Soci-
alist (p. 264), who owned the mills at New Lanark, in which he carried on
several interesting socialistic experiments. In visiting the "Falls of Clyde
from Lanark the following is perhaps the best plan. After leaving the
station we take the first street to the left, and immediately afterwards
turn to the right. Near the Black Bull we again turn to the left, and at
the fork we keep to the right. The road now descends (road to right be-
tween two houses to be avoided) to the first lodge of Bonninglon House,
in the grounds of which (adm. (id.) are the falls of (i/2 M.) "Cora Linn
(85 ft.) and C/2 M.) Bonnington Linn (30 ft.)- We then return to Lanark,
pass through the town, and proceed to the W. At the C/2M.) fork we take
the lower road to the left. At 0/2 M.) Kirkfieldbank we cross a bridge
over the Clyde. [About 1/2 M. to the N., on the Mouse Water, are the
 AYR. 65. Route. 481

pretty *Cartland Crags, best viewed from the viaduct over the ravine.]
At the inn on the other side of the bridge we obtain a ticket for Stone-
byres (3d.), 68 ft. high and with the greatest volume of water of the three
falls, which lies l>/4 M. farther on. Orossford (see p. 480) is 2 M. beyond
Stonebyres. Travellers with circular-tickets (p. 480) visit Cora and Bonn-
ington Linns from the W. or Corehouse side of the Clyde (adm. 3d.).
3. To Paisley, 7 M. Railway from the Central or St. Enoch's Station
in V« hr. — Paisley (George; County; Globe), a smoke-begrimed industrial
town on the Cart, with 60,000 inhab. and large thread (Coats; Clark &
Co.), shawl, and corn-flour (Brown &. Poison) factories, possesses a fine "Abbey
Church, dating in its present form from the 14-15th centuries. The hand-
some Town Sail was built at a cost of about 100,000 1.
4. To Atk and the Land of Bdbnb (one day). The railway (St. Enoch's
Station) to Ayr (40 M. ; fares 5*., 2j. 6<J.) runs via Paisley (see above);
Kilwinning, with a ruined priory of the 12th cent, (to the E., Eglinton
Castle); and Irvine, with a busy trade in coal. It then skirts the sea,
passing the watering-places of Troon and Prestwick (golf-links). — Ayr
(Station; King^s Arms; Queen's), an ancient seaport with 20,000 inhab., is
chiefly interesting as the centre of the 'Burns Country', which attracts
more 'pious pilgrims' than even Stratford-on-Avon (see p. 245). The i Auld
Brig\ dating from 1250, is still standing; while the 'New Brig'' of the poem
(1788) has been replaced by a still newer. The Pier affords a good view
of the mountains of Arran (see below). The Wallace Tower (130 ft. high),
was built in 1832 on the site of an old tower, in which the hero is said
tc have been imprisoned. The road to the S. leads to (2 M.) the Cottage
in which Robert Burns was born in 1759, containing a few relics of the
poet (adm. 2<J.). The whole country-side is full of associations with his
poems. About l/t M. farther on is Auld Alloway Kirk, between which and
the road is the grave of Burns's father. Just beyond the church are two
bridges over the Boon, the old one being that over which Tarn O'Shanter
escaped with such difficulty. The gardens adjoining the bridges contain
the Burns Monument, a pretentious and somewhat incongruous structure
in the style of a Greek temple (view), containing figures of Tarn O'Shanter
and Souter Johnny. We may return to Ayr by the road on the left (W.)
bank of the Doon. — Beyond Ayr the railway goes on to Maybole, Girvan,
and (59 M.) Stranraer (comp. p. 464).
In regard to the following excursions on the Clyde, comp. pp. 451, 452,
486 (Circular Tours).
5. To Arrochar, a pleasant excursion for one day. Steamer from
Greenock or Gourock (p. 486) to Arrochar in 2 hrs. (through - fare from
Glasgow 2s., Is. 6<J.). — Arrochar (Hotel) lies at the head of the long and
narrow Loch Long (p. 487). From Arrochar we may walk or drive (coach)
across to (274 M.) Tarbet on Loch Lomond (p. 483), returning by steamer
to Balloch (p. 483) and thence to Glasgow by railway (fare for the round,
including coach, Is., 5s.). Or we may retrace our steps from Tarbet to
Arrochar, and return to Glasgow by the steamer we came in.
6. To Gabeloch Head (one day). We take the train via. Dumbarton
(p. 483) to (23 M. in 1 hr. ; fares 1*. 9<J., Is.) Helensburgh (Queen's; Im-
perial), at the mouth of the Gareloch, and proceed thence by steamer
to (3/4 M.) Gareloch Head (Hotel) , finely situated at the upper end of the
loch. Steamers ply from Helensburgh to Greenock, Gourock, Dunoon (where
passengers join the Oban steamer; comp. p. 487), Rothesay, etc.
7. To Rothesay (one day), see p. 487.
8. To the Island of Akban (two days). We may either go the whole
way by steamer (5-6 hrs. ; fares 2s. Gd., is. 6d.); or by train from Bridge
Street to Wemyss Bay in lhr. and thence by steamer ('Ivanhoe') in 2V2 hrs.
(fares 3s. 8c?., 2s. lid., 2s. (id.) ; or by train from St. Enoch's to Ardrossan
in l-l'/z hr. and thence by steamer in I-IV2 hr. (fares 4s. Gd.. 2s. 9<j.). It
is possible, but not advisable, to make this excursion in one day. The
steamer passes Largs and the Cumbrae Islands, and calls at Corrie ("Hotel),
Brodiok (Douglas Hotel) , and Lamlash (Hotel), all on the E. coast of the
mountainous Isle of Arran, which is about 20 M. long and 12-13 M. wide.
The picturesque Brodick Castle and nearly the whole of the island belong
Baedeker's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 31
 ;;

482 Route 66. DUMBARTON. From Glasgow

to the Duke of Hamilton. The best short excursion (6 hrs.) is to ascend
from Brodick through Glen Rosa to (2-2'/2 hrs.) the top of *Goatfell (2866 ft.
*View), descend through the wild -Glen Sannox (l-l'/2 hr.), and return
along the coast via (IV2 M.) Cnrrie to (41/2 M.) Brodick. "Loch Ranza (Inn),
at the N. end of the island, 9 M. from Corrie, also deserves a visit.
9. To Inveraray (1-2 days). For this excursion there are five differ-
ent routes, among which it is difficult to choose a. By steamer ('Lord of
.•

the Isles', well equipped) from Glasgow, Greenock, or Gourock to Inve-

raray direct; b. By steamer from Greenock or Gourock to Arrochar (p. 481)
and thence on foot or by coach through Glencroe (20 M.); c. From Greenock
or Gourock by steamer to Lochgoilhead in 2 hrs., thence by coach or on
foot to (9 M.) St. Catherine's Ferry (hilly road), and from St. Catherine's
to Inveraray by small steamer in V4 hr. ; d. From Greenock or Gourock
by steamer to Dunoon, by coach to Loch Ech (Inverchapel ; 8 M.), by steamer
to the N. end of this loch (6 M.), by coach to Strachwr (5 M.), and by
steamer to Inveraray (4 M. ; in all, 5 hrs. from Greenock); e. Railway from
Queen St. Station to Balloch Pier in 1 hr., steamer to Tarbet in IV4 hr.
and coaeh thence via Arrochar to Inveraray in 4 hrs. (24 M. ; 8s.) — In-
veraray (Argyll Arms; George), the insignificant little county-town (1000
inhab.) of Argyllshire , is beautifully situated at the N.W. end of loch
Fyne (famous for its herrings), in a district noted for the beauty and
variety of its trees. Adjacent is Inveraray Castle, the seat of the Duke
of Argyll, in a finely wooded park. Fine view from Duniguoich (900 ft.
up and down 2 hrs.). — From Inveraray a coach runs by Glen Aray to
(10 M.) Cladich, near the romantic "loch Awe (30 M. long, IV2 M. wide),
on which a whole day may be pleasantly spent (steamer). To theN. rises
the finely-shaped Ben Cruachan (3610 ft.). The finest scenery is at the U.
end of the loch, and may be well seen by taking a small boat to (IV2 hr.)
Kilchurn Castle. Or we may descend the loch by steamer to Ford, return-
ing in the evening. Or we may cross to Loch Awe Station ('"Hotel, R. &
A. from is.), or go on by coach from Cladich to Dalmally, and take the
train from either of these points to Oban (comp. p. 489). There is a ferry
across the loch at Port Sonachan (Hotel), 3 M. to the S.W. of Cladich.
10. To Belfast, via steamer 'Adder' from Greenock (12'/2 hrs. there
and back; return-fares 12s. (id., 6s.). We leave Glasgow (St. Enoch's) at
8 a.m. and have l'/g hr. on shore at Belfast.

66. From Glasgow to Edinburgh via Loch Lomond,

Loch Katrine, and Stirling.
Railway to Balloch inl-lV4hr.; Steamer to/»«e) STCaWin2V2hrs.;CoACH
-

to Loch Katrine in 1 hr.; Steamboat to the Trossachs in 3/t hr.; Coach to

Callander in 2'A hrs. (including halt of '/z hr. at the Trossachs Hotel);
Railway via Stirling to Edinburgh in 2-21/2 hrs. (or from Stirling direct
to Glasgoio in IV2 hr.). This tour, which takes in all 11-12 hrs., is in
favourable weather one of the most delightful in the United Kingdom.
It is better to take two days for it, sleeping at Rowardennan and climbing
Ben Lomond on the following morning. The Circular Tour Tickets are
available for 7 days, and the journey may be broken at any point. Fares
from Glasgow and back 20s. id. , 16s. id. ; from Glasgow to Edinburgh
(<>r vice versa) 22s. id. , 19s. iOd.; from Edinburgh and back, including
Glasgow, 26s. id., 20s. id. — Carriage and pair from Inversnaid to Loch
Katrine 10s., gratuity 2s.; from the Trossachs to Callander 15s. and 3s. 6(f.;
from Inversnaid to Stronachlacher 7s. 6<f. -10s. and Is. 6<Z. -2s. 6d.
The Trossachs tour from Glasgow to Edinburgh may also be made via
Aberfoyle (fares as above); see p. 486.
The W. from Queen Street Station (Low Level),
train runs to the
following at the underground suburban railway, and beyond
first
(10 M.) Dalmuir approaches the busy waterway of the Clyde. At
(13 M.) Bowling begins the Forth $ Clyde Canal. —
16 M. Dum-
 to Edinburgh. LOCH LOMOND. 66. Route. 483

barton (Elephant), an industrial town with 14,000 inhab., is com-

manded by a Castle, strikingly situated on a precipitous rocky hill
(280 ft.) and presenting a very picturesque appearance, especially
when seen from the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle plays a prominent
part in Scottish history, and was one of the four fortresses secured to
Scotland at the time of the Union. The town lies at the mouth
of the Leven, through which Loch Lomond discharges its waters.
— The train now turns to the N., leaving the Helensburgh line
(p. 481) to the left. A little to the S. of (18 M.) Renton is Dalqu-
harn, the birthplace of Tobias Smollett (1721-71). —
At (21 M.)
Balloch (Hotel) the train runs on to the pier, alongside the steamer
(with restaurant, D. 2s. 6<£). Balloch lies at the S. end of *Loch
Lomond, the largest (25 M. long, 1-5 M. wide) and in some
respects the most beautiful of the Scottish lakes. Tts beauty is
enhanced by the numerous wooded islands among which the ,

steamer threads its way. Luss (*Hotel), our first or second stop-
ping-place is charmingly situated on the W. bank of the lake,
,

at the point where it begins to contract. The majestic *Ben Lomond

(3192 ft.) forms the background to the right; those who wish to
ascend it disembark at Rowardennan (*Hotel, R. & A. 3s., D. 3s. 6d.).
The ascent of Ben Lomond takes 2-3 hrs. (descent l'/2 hr.) and is
easily accomplished, even by ladies; guide unnecessary, pony with guide
8-10s. The only point where it is possible to miss the path is a marshy
track about halfway up here we bear to the left and soon come in sight
;

of the cairn which serves as a land-mark. The "View is very extensive,

Lowlands as far as Edinburgh; to the W.
stretching on the S.E. over the
liesLoch Lomond, with the Cobbler, Ben Vane, Ben Voirlich, and other
mountains surrounding it; more to the right are the twin-peaks of Ben
Cruachan and the tent-shaped Ben More. —
The descent may be made to
Inversnaid (see below) or to Aberfoyle (p. 48G), to the S.E.
From Rowardennan the steamer takes 20 min. to reach Tarbet
(*Hotel, R. & A. 4s. 6d., B. 3s.), prettily situated on the "W. bank,
and commanding the best view of Ben Lomond. Many tourists walk
or drive from Tarbet to (2^4 M.) Arrochar (p. 481) and return to
Glasgow by the afternoon steamer on Loch Long. — Our steam-
boat-journey ends at Inversnaid (Hotel) one of the finest points
,

on Loch Lomond, affording splendid views of the mountains above

Arrochar. Just before reaching the pier we pass a pretty waterfall.
Those who have time may prefer to go on by steamer to 0/2 hr.)
Ardlui (Hotel), at the head of the loch, and return later to Inversnaid.
About 2 M. to the N. of the pier is the prettily-situated * Inverarnan Hotel.
Coaches ply daily from the Head of the Loch to (8V2 M.) Cricmlarich
(p. 491), whence we may proceed by railway to Dalmally (p. 491) or Killin
(p. 492). — A small-boat excursion may be made from Inversnaid to Rob
Roy's Cave, 1 M. to the ~S., with an almost invisible entrance.
At Inversnaid the steamer is met by a coach to take the pas-
sengers across the ridge between Lftch Lomond and Loch Katrine,
a distance of 5 ! /2 M. Those who prefer it have plenty of time
(IV2 hr.) to walk, but the ascent from this side is long and some-
what fatiguing. The road passes the ruins of an old castle and the
small Loch Arklet. On reaching Stronachlaeher (*IIotel), we embark
31*
484 Route 66. THE TROSSACHS. From Glasgow

in the small screw-steamer that plies on *IiOch Katrine, a beau-

tiful lakeahout 9'/2 M. long. The finest scenery is at its E. end,
where steep cliffs alternate with beautiful woods, in which the
bright green foliage of the birch is predominant. Here, too, is the
charming little *EUeris Isle, immortalised in the 'Lady of the
Lake'. (The traveller need scarcely be reminded that Scott's poem
renders all other guide-books almost superfluous for this part of
Scotland.) To the right towers the noble form of Ben Venue (2393 ft.).
Some traces of the apparatus for conveying the water of Loch Ka-
trine to Glasgow (comp. p. 480) may be seen on the S. shore.
The *Trossachs ('bristling country'), a richly-wooded and ro-
mantic valley, begin immediately to the E. of Loch Katrine, and
there are few more beautiful districts in Scotland than that be-
tween Ellen's Isle and the Trossachs Hotel, on the bank of the
small *Loch Achray. The coach waits l /% hr. at the (IV2 M.) hotel,
and luncheon (2s. 6d.) is ready for the passengers. At the E. end
of Loch Achray we pass (I1/2 M.) the Brigg of Turk, and 1 M.
farther on we reach *Loch Vennachar along the N. side of which
,

the road runs for 4 M. To the left rises Ben Ledi (2875 ft.). At
the E. end of the loch is Coilantogle Ford, the scene of the combat
between Fitzjames and Roderick Dhu. On the top of a hill to
the left, shortly before we reach (2 M.) Callander, is a curiously
perched boulder known as 'Samson's Putting Stone'.
Callander (* Dreadnought Hotel, R. & A. is., B. 3s. 6d., D.4s.;
Macgregor's; Hydropathic) a favourite centre of Highland tour-
,

ists, ispicturesquely situated on the Teith.

Those who have not time to take the tour mentioned at p. 491
should at least walk or drive (one-horse carr. there and back 6-7s.) through
the picturesque Pass of Leny to (3V2 M.) Loch Lubnaig (comp. p. 492).
Tolerable walkers should extend this excursion to Strathpre, 5V2 M. farther
on, beyond the head of the lake, and return thence by train.
About IV2 M. to the N. of Callander are the Falls of Bracklin in a ,

romantic wooded gorge. On the way from the station to the village we
take the first cross-road to the right and ascend by a rough cart-track
to (1 min.) a fmall wood. The indistinct footpath skirts this to the right
and leads along the hillside to (8 min.) a wall, which we cross. We con-
tinue in the same direction (E.) to (8 min.) a deep hollow, and then de-
scend to (2-3 min.) the falls. We
cross the little wooden bridge and ex-
plore the pretty points of view on the opposite bank. — Callander is the
usual starting-point for an ascent of Ben ledi (2875 ft.; 21/2-3 hrs.; "View).
From Callander we continue our journey by railway. To the
right, at (8 M.) Doune is a picturesque ruined castle.
,
11 M. —
Dunblane (Stirling Arms ^Hydropathic) has an E.E. *Cathedral
;

(13th cent.) with a Norman tower, the choir of which is used as

,

the parish-church, while the rest is in ruins. Pleasant walk through

Kippenross Park to Bridge-of-Allan. A little to the W. of Dun-
blane is the field of Sheriffmuir (battle 1715). —
13 M. Bridge-of-
Allan (Royal; Queen; Hydropathic), a favourite inland watering-
place, with mineral springs, famed for the mildness of its climate.
16M. Stirling (* Golden Lion, at the station; * Royal; Temper-
 to Edinburgh. STIRLING. 66. Route. 485

ance), an ancient town with 16,000 inhab., is situated on the Forth,

35 M. above Edinburgh, and was formerly a favourite residence of
the Scottish sovereigns. The picturesque and venerable *Castle
is situated upon a lofty height overlooking the town and resem-
bling the castle-rock of Edinburgh.
Stirling Castle plays a prominent part in Scottish history. In 130i it
was taken by Edward I. of England after a siege of three months, hut it
was retaken by Bruce ten years later, after Bannockburn. James II. (1430)
and James V. (1512) were born in the castle; and here, in 1452, James II.
stabbed the rebellious Earl of Uouglas.
We first enter the Lower Court (no charge; small gratuity to the
guide), in which, to the left, stands the Gothic Palace of James V. (16th
cent.). Thence we pass into the Upper Court, on the E. side of which
stands the Parliament House, and on the N. the Chapel Royal. The passage
to the left of the latter leads to the Douglas Gardens, whence a flight of
steps ascends to the Douglas Room, the scene of the above-mentioned tra-
gedy. The best point of view is the ''Ladies' Look-Out, an opening in the
garden-wall behind the governor's house: to the extreme left (W.) Ben
Lomond, then Ben Venue, Ben A'an, and Ben Ledi ; to the N. and E. the
Ochils ; nearer, Bridge of Allan, the Abbey Craig and Wallace Monument,
Camhuskenneth Abbey, and the 'Links of Forth' ; to the S., Bannockburn.
The view from Queen Mary's Look-Out is similar.
We now pass through the park-like Cemetery, with its handsome
Martyrs' Memorial, to the ancient Orey friars' Church (1494), the
tower of which affords another fine view (adm. 2d.). Adjacent is
Cowane's Hospital or Guildhall, with a small museum. —
Among
the interesting old houses of Stirling is Argyle's Lodging, in Broad
St. (E. side of the Castle Wynd), built in the 16th cent., and now
a military hospital.
Excursions from Stieling. About l'/2 M. to the S. of Stirling lies
the village of St. Ninian (omn. 2d.), and 1/2 If. farther on is the field of
Bannockburn, where Robert Bruce defeated the army of Edward II., thrice
as large as the Scottish army, in 1314. The 'Bore Stone', on which the
Scottish standard was planted, is still pointed out (view). — At Sauchie-
burn, 3 M. to the S.W. of Bannockburn, James III. was defeated by his
insurgent nobles in 1488. Beaton's Mill, the house in which he was
assassinated after the battle, still exists.
Camhuskenneth Abbey (adm. 2d.) on the left hank of the Forth a
, ,

littlebelow Stirling, was founded by David I. in 1147 and became the

wealthiest Augustine monastery in Scotland. James III. and his wife Mar-
garet of Denmark are buried in the abbey. The best way of reaching it
is to descend the right bank for 1 M. and then cross by the ferry (id.).
Just above the new bridge the Forth is spanned by the interesting
Old Bridge, of the 15th cent., on which Archhp. Hamilton, the last Roman
Catholic prelate in Scotland, was hanged for participation in the murder
of the Eegent Moray (1570). The famous battle of Stirling, in which Wal-
lace defeated the English in 1297, took place a little farther up, near an
old wooden bridge, which has long since disappeared.
Tramway-cars ply hourly from Stirling to (3 M.) Bridge of Allan (see
p. 484; fare 3d.), passing, on the right, the "Abbey Craig (362 ft.; "View),
which is surmounted by the heavy-looking Wallace Monument (adm. 2d.).
About 12 M. to the E. of Stirling (railway, via Alloa, in s/4 hr.) lies
Dollar (180 ft. ; Castle Campbell Hotel) , a small town with a good public
school (5-600 pupils), near which is the finely situated "Castle Campbell
(view). Farther to the E., 4'/2 M. beyond Dollar, is the 'Rumbling Bridge
(rail. stat. ; Hotel), crossing the romantic gorge of the Devon (adm. to walks
6d.). Near the bridge is the Devil's Mill Fall, and 1 M. lower down is
the 'Cauldron Linn. From Dollar we may ascend Ben Clench (2363 ft.),
the highest of the Ochils (view). — The railway runs on to (20 min.) Kin-
486 Route 66. ABERFOYLE
ross (Kirkland's), a small town on Loch Leven, a lake 4 M. long and 2 M.
wide, famed for its trout (boat, with boatman, 2s. Gd. per hr.). On an
island in the loch is an old castle in which Queen Mary was imprisoned
in 1567, making her escape in the following year (comp. Scott's 'Abbot'). —
From Kinross we may return to Edinburgh in i-l 1 /^ hr. by train via
Cowdenbeath, Dunfermline, and the Forth Bridge (p. 495).
From Stirling to Aberfoyle, 21'/2 M. , railway in l-l^ hr. —
The
line diverges to the left from the main line to Callander and runs along
the S. side of the Forth. 6 M. Gargunnock; 9 M. Kippen; 13 M. Port of
Menteith 4 M. to the S. of the Lake of Menteith (see below).
,
—
15!/2 M.
Buchlyvie , and thence to Aberfoyle, see below. Beyond Buchlyvie the
line goes on (28 M.) Bulloch (p. 483).
From Stirling we may also return to Edinburgh by steamer on the
Forth (3-3'/2 hrs.; comp. p. 465).
The railway from Stirling to Edinburgh joins the Edinburgh
and Glasgow line at Polmont Junction (p. 475).
The stages on the alternative route via Aberfoyle, mentioned at p. 482,
are as follows — Railway from Glasgow to Buchlyvie and Aberfoyle,
:

34 M. in l 1 /4-l 3 nr Coach from Aberfoyle to Loch Katrine Pier,

in I1/2 hr. (fare 4s. Gd.); thence as above. — The train starts at
, /'' -
i

7 M. ,

the Queen, St. Station (p. 476) and diverges to the N. (left) from the Edin-
burgh line at (61/2 M.) Lenzie. &jz M. Kirkintilloch. Beyond (11 M.) Len-
noxtown it traverses the pretty Campsie Glen. 20 M. Killearn. At(22'/2M.)
Gartness we join the Balloch-Stirling line and turn to the right. Loch
Lomond (p. 483) lies about 4 M. to the W. At (24Va M.) Balfron the pipes
of the Loch Katrine aqueduct (p. 480) cross the railway. 28 M. Buchlyvie
(Hotel) is the junction of the short branch-line to (6 M.) Aberfoyle (Builie
Nicol Jarvie Hotel), which traverses a swampy moorland and passes 2 M.
to the W. of the small Lake of Menteith (see Scott's 'Rob Boy'). The
ascent of Ben Lomond may be made from Aberfoyle in 3>/2-4'/2 hrs. —
The road from Aberfoyle to the Trossachs (7 SI.) affords a good view of
Ben Ledi (p. 484) and a glimpse of Loch Vennachar (p. 4^4). To the right
lies the pretty Loch Drunkie. Finally we pass the W. end of Loch Achroy
(p. 484) and join the above described route at the Trossachs Hotel (p. 484).

67. From Glasgow to Oban and Inverness.

Western Scotland.
From Glasgow to Oban , 120 M.
, steamer daily in 9 hrs. starting at
,

7 a.m. As far as Ardrishaig (see p. 488) we travel by the admirably ap-

pointed 'Columba', probably the finest river-steamer in Europe, with an
excellent restaurant (B. 2*., D. 2s. Gd.), drawing-rooms, baths, post-office,
etc. Travellers may leave Glasgow by rail (St. Enochs or Central Station)
at 8.15-8.30 a.m., or Edinburgh (Caledonian Station, p. 464) at 7-7.30 a.m.,
and join the steamer at Greenock or Gourock (comp. p. 476).
Travellers may go by this route as far as Oban and return thence by
train in one long day, reaching Edinburgh again at 11.15 and Glasgow at
11.30 p.m. Circular tour fares; from Glasgow 21s., lis. Gd. ; from Edin-
burgh 29s., 15s. Gd. Holders of third-class tickets may travel in the cabin
of the steamer on paying 4s. Gd. extra to the purser.
Those who prefer it may go to Oban all the way by steamer ('Clay-
more' or 'Clansman') in about 14 hrs., leaving Greenock at 4 p.m. on
Mon. and Thurs. (fare 10s.). The route, a very fine one for good sailors,
leads past Arran (see p. 482), round the Mull of Cantyre (often stormy),
and then to the N. between the mainland and the islands of Islay and
Jura. Beyond Oban the steamers go on to Tobermory (p. 4S9), Broadford
(p. 491), Portree (p. 491), and Slomoway (p. 494; 40 hrs. from Glasgow).
Steamers ply from Oban daily in summer to Staffa and Iona, and through
(lie Caledonian Canal to Inverness; also to Skye several times weekly.
This route may be conveniently combined with the next by proceed-
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11 191.400
Statute Miles (Tirree miles to an inch) Buoinetres.
 ;

to Inverness. ROTHESAY. 67. Route. 487

ing by railway from Inverness to Aberdeen; and the three routes, Nos.
66, 67, 69 with a few excursions from the chief centres,
,
include all the
finest scenery in Scotland between Edinburgh and Glasgow on the S. and
Inverness on the H. A Circular Tour combining RR. 67 <fc 69 has been
arranged by the Caledonian Railway Co. (fares 77s. id., 47*. 10d.). Ample
opportunities are allowed for breaking the journey, and at least a fort-
night should be devoted to the round. 1st Day From Glasgow to Oban,
:

by the Crinan Canal. 2nd Day: Excursion to lona and Staffa. 3rd Day:
Excursion- to Loch Awe. 4th Day: From Oban to Inventus through the
Caledonian Canal. 5th Day: From Inverness to Loch Maree. 6th Day:
Return to Inverness. 7th Day: From Inverness to Aberdeen. 8th Day:
At Aberdeen. 9th Day: From Aberdeen to Braemar. 10th Day: From
Braemar to Perth. 11th Day: From Perth to Crieff, CornHe, Lochearnhead,
Killin, Loch lay, Kenmore, and Aberfeldy. 12th Day: From Aberfeldy
to
Pitlochry and Pass of KilliecranUe, and then back to Perth by Dunkeld.
13th Day: From Perth to Edinburgh via Stirling. Those who have time
should certainly add an excursion to the Isle of Skye (comp. p. 491).
The 'Columba' at first threads its way through the crowded
shipping of the harbour among which may usually be seen some
,

of the Atlantic steamers of the Anchor, Allan, and State Lines.

To the right is the extensive Queen's Dock and numerous large
,

ship-building yards are passed on both banks. The first stopping-

place is Partick, opposite the busy suburban town of Oovan (p. 477
birthplace
to the left). Below (6 M.) Renfrew (left) is Elderslie, the
of William Wallace. 12 M. (right) Bowling (p. 482). 18 M. —
Dumbarton (p. 482). Ben Lomond is visible to the N. in clear
weather. —
lS'/a M Port Glasgow (left) formerly was what its
-
name
implies, but has lost its importance through the deepening of the
Clyde at Glasgow. The second stoppage (2 hrs. from Glasgow) is at—
22 M. Greenock (Tontine; White Hart; Royal; Buck's Head),
a finely situated and flourishing seaport, with ample
harbour ac-
commodation extensive sugar-refineries, and large ship-building
,

yards, iron-foundries, and engineering works. Pop. (1881) 68,897.

The 'Tail of the Bank', part of a large sandbank off Greenock, af-
fords the best anchorage in the Clyde. One or more men-of-war
are generally to be seen here. Passengers coming over the
Mid-
land and G. S. W. Railways join the steamer at Greenock.
Beyond Greenock the river widens. To the left is the seaside
resort ofGourock (Ashton Hotel), where passengers over the Cale-
donian (Glasgow, Edinburgh, etc.) and L. N. W. Railways embark.
The trains run alongside the steamer. To the right is the long
and narrow Loch Long (p. 481). The steamer calls at Kim (at the
mouth of the Holy Loch), Dunoon (where it is joined by passengers
coming over the G. N. R., N. E. R., and N. B. R. via Helensburgh,
p. 481) and Innellan
, three popular watering-places. Nearly op-
,

posite Dunoon is the Cloch Lighthouse. We then pass Toward

Point
and Lighthouse (right) and cross to —
40 M. Rothesay (Queen's; Bute Arms; Victoria, R. &A. at these
D. from Olenburn Hydropathic; boat 6(2. per hr.), the
from 4s., 3s.;

capital (8300 inhab.) of the island of Bute and in

some respects
of the Clyde. The scene at Rothesay Pier, in the
the 'Brighton'
488 Route 67. ARDRISHAIG. From Glasgow

height of the season, is one of great bustle and liveliness. The

ruins of Rothesay Castle date from the 14th century. The eldest
son of the reigning monarch of Great Britain bears the title of
Duke of Rothesay. Good view from Barone Hill (530 ft.). Mount-
stuart, a fine building, the seat of the Marquis of Bute, is 5 M.
to the S.E. About 2 M. to the N. of Rothesay lies the village
of Port Bannatyne (tramway 2d.) , where cheaper lodgings may
be had. Above the village stands the Kyles of Bute Hydropathic
(well spoken of).
The Columba now turns to the N.W. (while the Arran steamers
continue their journey southwards; p. 481) and threads the pictur-
esque * Kyles of Bute, the narrow strait separating the N. end of
Bute from the mainland. To the right stretch Lochs Striven and
Ridden. Stations Colintraive and Tighnabruaich. Rounding Ardla-
mont Point, the steamer enters Loch Fyne (famous for its herrings)
and calls at Tarbert (Tarbert Hotel). A fine view is obtained at
this point of the Mts. of Arran to the S. ;to the N., view of Loch
Fyne, with the twin-peaks of Ben Cruachan in the distance.
From Tarbert a coach runs down the Mull of Cantyre to Campbel-
town (35 M. , fare 10*. ) Another coach conveys passengers to (1 M.) the
head of West Loch Tarbert, whence a steamer plies daily to Port Askaig
(on Mon. to Port Ellen) on the island of Islay (through-fares from Glas-
gow \'2s. Gd., 5s.). Bridgend is a good centre from which to explore Islay.
From Port Askaig a ferry plies to (V2 M.) the island of Jura, the Paps
of which (2400-2570 ft.) command good views.
Beyond Tarbert the vessel steams up a small arm of Loch Fyne
called Loch Gilp, and at about 1 p. m. reaches —
80 M. Ardrishaig (Ardrishaig Hotel ; Albion) , where the Co-
lumba is quitted for a small steamer on the Crinan Canal.
From Ardrishaig a coach starts in summer on the arrival of the steam-
ers for (16 M.) Ford, whence a steamer sails up Loch Awe (see p. 490) to
Loch Awe Station (p. 490), on the railway to Oban. This is an alternative
route to Oban from Ardrishaig. — Lochgilphead (Argyll; Star), 2 M. to
the N. of Ardrishaig, is frequented by summer visitors. —For Inveraray,
at the head of Loch Fyne, see p. 482.

The Crinan Canal, which saves the long and often stormy
voyage (75 M.) round the Mull of Cantyre is only 9 M. long; but
,

as the steamer has to pass through 9 locks, it takes 2 hrs. to the

passage. It is easy to walk from Ardrishaig and join the steamer at
the last lock. Lochgilphead (see above) is passed on the right. The
canal is pretty and more like a river than a canal. At Crinan the
,
1
'Chevalier' or 'Grenadier is in waiting, on board which dinner is
s erved at once. The sail from Crinan to Oban takes about 2 l/± hrs.
Soon after leaving Crinan we pass between Craignish Point and
the N. end of Jura (see above; ferry), which is separated from the
little island of Scarba by the tumultuous Strait of Corrievrechan.
The next part of the course is sheltered by several islands but ,

farther on we are exposed for a time to the full swell of the At-
lantic Ocean. Finally, however, we come under the lee of Mull
(p. 489) and enter the Sound of Kerrera.
 ;

to Inverness. OUAJN. 67. Route. 489

120 M. Oban. — Hotels. Great Western, 'Alexandra, to the N.

of the pier, R. & A. 5s. Gd. , B. 8*., D. 5«. ; '-Station, Caledonian, near
the station, to the S. of the pier, R. & A. 4s. 6<J., D. 4-5s. ; Grand, on
the hill behind the town, with fine view ; Colbmba, opposite the N. pier
King's Arms, Victoria Temperance, Imperial, 'Argyll, unpretending"
— Lodgings. — Rail. Rfmt. Rooms.
Oban, a growing town with 5000 inhab., is picturesquely situated
in a lovely bay of the Firth of Lorn, which is almost land-locked by
the island of Kerrera (ferry 4d.) and forms a fine harbour, generally
full of yachts and steamers. Oban is the starting-point for so many
excursions and the centre of so much traffic by train and steamer
that it has been called the 'Charing Cross of the Highlands'. The
obelisk on Kerrera is a memorial of David Hutcheson, the pionier
of steamboat traffic in the Western Highlands. On a rocky pro-
montory on the N. side of the bay, 1 M. from the pier, rises Du-
nolly Castle ,the pretty grounds of which (open to the public on
Mon. Wed., and Frid.) afford fine views. In the drive leading
,

to the house is the Clach-a-Choin, or dog-stone, to which it is said

Fingal used to tie his dog Bran.

Excursions from Oban.

Walks. To the top of the hill at the back of the town ('Ajhr.); fine
view of Oban, Kerrera, and Mull. — To Dunstaffnage Castle, 3'/2 M., .coach
We
daily (return-fare 1». 6<J.). follow the road leading from Oban towards
the N. for about 3 M. , and then take a track to the left leading arong the
shore past Dunstaffnage Farm. Dunstaffnage Castle (adm. Gd.) is associated
with very early Scottish history, and the 'Stone of Destiny', now forming
part of the 'Coronation Chair' in Westminster Abbey (see Baedeker's London),
was kept here before its removal to Scone in 842. In clear weather the
castle affords a fine view of Loch Etive, the Mts. of Mull, etc. The lofty
mountain to the E. is Ben Cruachan.
Longer Excursions. 1. "To Staffa and Iona (steamer there and back,
including 1 hr. on each of the islands, 9-10 hrs.; fare 15s.). In fine weather
this is perhaps the most delightful excursion on the W. coast of Scotland.
(On three days a week the tour is made in the reverse direction to that de-
scribed below.) The steamer steers to the N.W. , between Dunolly Castle
(right) and the island of Kirrera (left). In '/< hr. we pass the island of
Lismore, at the mouth of the large Loch Linnhe, on the right, long the seat
of the Bishops of Argyle; the 'Dean of Lismore's Book' is a collection of
early Gaelic poems in MS., made by Sir James M'Gregor, Dean of Lismore,
at the beginning of the 16th century. To the left is Duart, at the entrance
of the Sound of Mull, a strait 1-2 M. wide, separating the mountainous isle
of Mull from the mainland. To the right rises Ardtornish Castle, pictur-
esquely placed at the entrance to the pretty Loch Aline. To the left, Aros
Castle, another ancient seat of the Lords of the Isles. 1. Tobermory ( Western
Islands Hotel; Royal), the chief place in Mull. The steamer now turns to
the W. and faces the Atlantic Ocean. To the left is Ardmore Point, to
the right Ardnamurchan Point. In clear weather the islands of Muck, Eigg,
and Rum, and the Mts. of Skye, are seen to the N.; to the W., Coll and Tiree.
Steering to the S., we next pass the small and rocky Treshinish Isles, one
of which is known from its shape as the Dutchman's Cap. To the left is Gome-
tray. Staffa ('island of pillars'), IV2 M. in circumference, is now reached,
and the steamer stops to allow the passengers to visit (by small boat) the
celebrated "Fingal's Cave. [In rough weather, it is impossible to enter the
cave by boat, and the passengers are then landed at some distance rom it.]
The imposing entrance to Fingal's Cave is formed by a series of basaltic
columns, 20-40 ft. height, bearing an arch that rises to a height of 65 ft.
490 Route 67. ION A. From Glasgow

.above the sea. The cave penetrates the island for a distance of over
200 ft. Its floor consists of the surging waves, which even on a calm day
awaken thunderous echoes in its dim recesses. The Clam Shell Cave de-
rives its name from its shape. Staffa possesses other caves of great in-
terest, especially to the geologist; but the short halt of the steamer does
not allow time to inspect them.
In about 3/4 hr. after leaving Staffa we reach Iona or Icolmkill
(St. Columba Hotel, Argyll, unpretending), an island 3V2 M. long and I1/4 M.
broad, separated from Mull by the narrow Sound of Iona. We
again
land by a small boat. The interest of the island arises from the fact that
St. Columba landed here from Ireland in 563 and began his missionary
labours in Scotland. The oldest buildings now existing, however, date
from the 12th century. The guide, who meets us on landing, leads us to
the Cemetery of St. Oran, containing a great number of ancient tombs,
many of which are said to be those of Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian
kings. The "Cathedral, or Church of St. Mary, mainly in the Transition-
Norman style, dates from the 13-16th centuries. Near it is St. Martin's
Cross , and on the road is Maclean's Cross , the only survivors of the 360
Runic Crosses that the island is said to have once possessed, most of them
having been destroyed by Puritan iconoclasts. Dr. Johnson visited Iona in
1773 and was deeply impressed by its associations: 'That man is little to
be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of Mara-
thon , or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of Iona 1 .

The steamer now threads the Firth of Lorn, along the S. coast of Mull,
with its line basaltic formations, and passes through Kerrera Sound into
Oban Bay.
2. Circular Took to Loch Awe and Melfort (8 hrs. ; fares 1st. cl.
17s.,3rd cl. 15s. 6d. ; driver's fees 2s.). By coach to (32 M.) Ford, at the S.
end of Loch Awe (p. 482) ; steamer on Loch Awe to (20 M.) Loch Awe Station
(p. 482); train to (24 M.) Oban. This route may be made in the opposite
direction, but Loch Awe is seen to greatest advantage from S. to N. Those
who have come to Oban by railway (see p. 491), having skirted Loch Awe
and passed through the Pass of Brander, may omit this route. They should,
however, take the coach as fur as (16 M.) Kilmelfort ("Culfail Hotel), walk
on for about 2 M., to obtain a view of Loch Melfort, and return by the
same route (fare about 10s.). The finest points on the route are the Pass of
Brander, a narrow and gloomy ravine (traversed by railway) and the "Pass
of Melfort, a picturesque defile, the ruggedness of which is softened by
its fine woods (pine, oak, birch, mountain-ash, hazel). The view of Loch
Melfort from a lofty part of the road ,about 2 M. beyond Kilmelfort is ,

also very fine. Refreshments may be obtained at Kilmelfort (see above),

Ford, or on the steamer. Oban is reached in time for table-d'hote.
3. "Circular Took by Glen Etive Loch Etive and Glencoe to
, ,

Ballachulish, and baok by Loch Linnhe (1 day 1st cl: and cabin 25s.).
;

Railway to (9 M.) Ach-na-Cloich; steamer up Loch Etive to (15 M.) Loch-

etive Bead; coach to (30 M.) Ballachulish; steamer to (26 M.) Oban. This
tour which embraces some of the deepest recesses and grandest scenery in
the Highlands, may be made in either direction, and takes 10-12 hrs., bring-
ing passengers back to Oban in time for dinner. It may, however, be
omitted by those who are going on through the Caledonian Canal to Inver-
ness, as they may get a good view of Loch Etive from Dunstaffnage (see
p. 489), and may visit Glencoe from Ballachulish (see p. 492). Refresh-
ments at Kinghouse Inn, about halfway between Lochetive Head and
Ballachulish ; dinner is provided on the steamer from Ballachulish to Oban.
4. From Oban to Callander. The direct route is by railway (71 M.,
n 3 hrs.; see p. 491). A pleasant round may be made by taking the
steamer to Ballachulish (see above) and going thence by coach, in 5'/2 hrs.,
through Glencoe (p. 492) to Loch Etive and (35 M.) Ach-na-Cloich. From Ach-
na-Cloich we proceed by railway to Callander (p. 484) in 2 ] /2 hrs. via ,

Crianlarich and Killin (p. 492). Coach from Killin to Aberfeldy, see p. 501.
5. From Oban to Loch Lomond. Either as above, or by railway (via
Dalinally, p. 491) to Crianlarich, and thence by coach, in 3 hrs., to Ardlui
(eomp. p. 483).
 to Inverness. SKYE. 67. Route. 491
6. **From Oban to the Isle of Sxye (2-3 days). Steamers ply several
times a week from Oban to Broadford (14-18*.) and Portree (16-20*.). Tour-
ists usually disembark at Broadford, and, after visiting the island, re-
turn from Portree. Broadford, however, and the route thence to Loch
Scavaig are comparatively uninteresting; and a better plan is to take the
steamer which plies once weekly to Loch Scavaig (see below), having tel-
egraphed the day before to the landlord of the Sligachan Hotel to send
a guide (and ponies if required ; advisable for ladies) to meet the steamer.
Those who land at Broadford ("Hotel) should walk or drive (one-horse
carr. 5s.) to (6M.) Torrin, and proceed thence by boat (with 2 rowers 18*.,
with 4 rowers 24s.) to the Spar Cave and "Loch Scavaig, a wild and ro-
mantic arm of the sea running deep into the island. At its inner end,
separated from it by a narrow neck of land, is "Loch Coruisk, offering a
scene of solitary and savage grandeur, perhaps not elsewhere paralleled
in the kingdom. From Loch Coruisk we may walk to the N. across Drvm-
hain (800 ft.) and through "Glen Sligachan to the (7-8 M.) 'Sligachan Hotel
(a rough walk of 3 hrs. ; not to be attempted after dusk without a guide).
Or we may cross Loch Scavaig by boat to Camatunary (better than by
the walking route, on which a steady head is necessary at the point
called the 'Bad Step ), and follow the track through Glen Sligachan the whole
way to the hotel (3 hrs.). To the left rises the graceful Scuir-na-Crillean
('Peak of the Young Men'; 3167 ft.), and to the right is Blaven (3042! ft.),
both summits of the grand 'Cuchullin Hills (pron. 'Coolin'), the iinpres-
siveness of which is heightened by the dark colour of their rocks. From the
Sligachan Hotel we may ascend the former in 3 hrs. ; the route is steep and
requires a steady head, but a guide (10-12s.) is unnecessary except in misty
weather. Ladies should not attempt it, unless prepared for considerable
fatigue. The "View from the top is very fine. — From Sligachan a coach
plies daily to (10 M.) Portree ("Portree Hotel; Royal; Caledonian), the capital
of the island, and the best general centre for excursions. Prince Charles'"!
Cave, in the rocky coast, 4>/2 M. to the N., has no other interest than that
the Young Pretender lay there in hiding. Those who have time should not
quit Portree without a visit (1-2 days) to the Storr Rock and the Quiraing,
perhaps the most striking rock -scenery in Great Britain. [In summer
excursion-brakes run daily from Portree to Uig (return-fare 8s.) and thence
to the Quiraing (4s.) ; see below.] The Storr Rock (2340 ft.), about 7 M. to
the N. , commands a very fine and extensive view; the walk to the top
takes at least 3 hrs. A walk thence of 4 hrs. more, over dreary moor-
land, brings us to the 'Guiraing, a grassy plateau enclosed by lofty cliffs
and pinnacles of the most fantastic form and disposition. Those who reach
the Quiraing too late to go on to Uig may sleep at the Steinscholl Inn,
2 M. to the S., which we passed on our way. Next morning we walk
across the island (2'/2 hrs.) to Uig (Inn) on the W. coast, and return thence
by carriage (ordered beforehand at Portree) or by coach to (2'/4 hrs.) Por-
tree (on foot 4*/a hrs.). Those whose time is limited should drive from
Portree to Uig, walk (or drive) to the Quiraing and back, and drive back
to Portree (in all 8-9 hrs.), leaving the Storr Rock unvisited. — The steam-
boat-journey from Portree to Oban takes 14 hrs.; or we may take the
steamer from Portree to (4 hrs.) Strome Ferry (p. 494), and proceed thence
by railway, via, Dingwall, to Inverness (p. 493).
Steam Yachts leave Oban at intervals in the season for a week or
two's excursion (apply at M'Gregor's Coach Office).
Fbom Oban to Glasgow, 116 M., railway in 3V2-4 hrs. (fares 14s., lis.,
8s.; to Edinburgh, 123 M., 18s. 6d., 14s., 9s. iOd.). This railway traverses
much picturesque scenery, and affords a convenient return-route for those
unable to go farther north. On leaving Oban the train sweeps round to
the N., passes Dunstaffnage (p. 489) on the left, and skirts Loch Etive (p. 490).
Beyond (13 M.) Taynuilt (Inn) it threads the wild Pasi of Awe and the Past
of Brander (p. 490), at the foot of Ben Cruachan. — 22 M. Loch Awe
Station (p. 490). — 25 M. Dalmally (Hotel), at the entrance to the beautiful
Vale of Olenorchy, 3 M. from the N.E. end of Loch Awe. From Dalmally
we may walk or drive, via (6 M.) Cladich (p. 482), to (10 M.) Inveraray
(see p. 482). — 38 M. Tyndrum (Royal Hotel). From (42 M.) Crianlarich
492 Route 67. FORT WILLIAM. From Glasgow

(Hotel) a coach runs daily, in 2 hrs., to Ardlui, at the

upper end of Loch
Lomond (p. 483); and those who have not yet visited that beautiful loch
—
may complete their journey by this route. 53 M. Killin Junction commands
a line view of Loch fay (see p. 501). The train
then descends the wild
Olen Ogle and passes the head of Loch Earn (station; see p. 498). It next
skirts -Loch Lubnaig , a picturesque sheet of water, and threads the
lass of Lent/, where Ben Ledi (p. 484) towers to the right. 71 M. Cal-—
ender, and thence to Glasgow (or Edinburgh), see R. 65.

From Oban to Inverness through the Caledonian Canal,

98 M. steamer daily in 12 hrs. (6 a.m. to 6 p.m. ; if a later boat be
,

taken the night may be spent at Banavie or Fort William , see

,

below). The steamer sails through Loch Linnhe to (2 /2 hrs.) Bal-

4

lachulish (*Ballachulish Hotel; Loch Leven), a charming excursion

in fine weather. The village is grandly situated at the entrance of
Loch Leven, an arm of the sea stretching towards the E.
At Ballachulish coaches meet the steamer to convey passengers to the
wild G-lencoe, the scene of the atrocious massacre of the unsuspecting and
hospitable Macdonalds on 14th Feb., 1692, by English soldiers. The drive
there and back, including a stay of Vt hr. at Ossian's Cave, the finest part
of the glen, takes 4 hrs. (fare 5s. 6(2.).
The steamer now crosses Loch Linnhe , calls at Ardgour, and
passes through the Corran Narrows. At the head of the loch (16 M.
or l!/2 hr.from Ballachulish) lies —
Fort William (* Caledonian; Alexandra; Chevalier; *Bamsays
Temperance; Imperial; Ben Nevis, well spoken of), formerly the
key of the Highlands. A coach runs hence daily, passing the
'Parallel Roads' of Olen Boy, to (50 M. 6y 2 hrs.) Kingussie, a
;

station of the Highland Railway, 36 M. to the N. of Blair

Athole

(p. 502). —
Passengers for Inverness do not disembark at Fort
William but go on with the steamer to (V4 hr.) Corpach (Hotel),
,

a coach-drive of 10 min. brings them to Banavie

(Lochiel
whence
Arms), at the mouth of the canal. The Caledonian Canal, 60 M.
long , admitting the passage of large vessels from the W. coast to
Inverness , traverses the 'Great Glen of Scotland' and consists of a
chain of lakes (Lochs Lochy Oich , Ness , and Dochfour) united
, ,

by artificial channels.
Banavie lies at the foot of *Ben Nevis (4406 ft.), the highest mountain
in the British Islands, which may be ascended hence in 3-372 hr ? , / by,. J
i

good new pony-track. Those who use this track which begins at Ql &.)
,

to pur-
the farm of Achintee at the entrance to Glen Nevis, are expected
,

chase a guide-ticket (Is.; for pony 3s.), the proceeds of which go to keep
the path in repair. Guide (unnecessary) 10s.; pony and attendant 21s. lne
s
View from the top is fine, especially on the N.E., where there is a pre-
in
cipitous descent of 1450 ft. At the top are an Observatory, established
1883, and a Temperance Inn (Tea, R., & B. 10s., L. 3s.). —
The ascent
may also be made from Furt William (see above) which has telegraphic
,

communication with the top.

A mail-conveyance plies daily (three times weekly before July) from
Banavie to (36 M.) Arisaig Inn, the last 25 M. of the route through splendid
scenery, passing Loch Eil Loch Shiel Loch Rannoch (or Loch Eilt) and
, , ,

Loch na Nuagh. About 3 M. farther on is Arisaig Pur, where the steamers

from Oban to Skye call several times weekly.
As the canal-steamer leaves Banavie we have a good view, to the
right, of Ben Nevis. After 8 M. we reach the first lock and enter
 to Inverness. INVERNESS. 67. Route. 493

the picturesque Loch Lochy (10 M.) which is almost immediately

,

succeeded by the charming little *Loch Oich (5 M.). To the left is

the romantic Invergarry Castle, from which a fine route leads through
Olen Shiel to the "W. coast (to Balmacara on Loch Alsh called at
, ,

by the Oban and Gairloch steamers, 50 M. thence to Kyle Akin ;

Ferry, for Skye, 4 M. comp. p. 506). Between the lower end of

;

Loch Oich and (5 M.) Fort Augustus (Lovat Arms) aTe several
locks, which the steamer takes l^hr. to pass through, so that this
part of the journey may be performed on foot. The fort has now
given place to a modern Benedictine Abbey, in the E.E. style (adm.
Is. fine view from the tower). Most of the locks are within 2M.
;

of Fort Augustus and those who do not care to walk the whole
;

5 M. may disembark near Fort Augustus and visit the abbey while
the steamer passes the locks.
Fort Augustus lies at the S. end of Loch Ness (24 M. long),
the scenery of which is less varied than that of the lochs already
passed. Invermoristown is another starting-point for the rout
through Olen Shiel, uniting with the above-mentioned at (25 M.)
Clunie. On the right bank 3/4 hr. from Fort Augustus is Foyers
, ,

(Hotel), where the steamer stops for 3 /4hr. to allow a hurried visit to
the Tall of Foyers, 90 ft. in height, which is probably the finest
waterfall in Great Britain (pier-toll 4d. seat in a carr. to and from
;

the fall Is.). Higher up is another fall (30 ft. high), which the
steamboat-passenger has not time to visit. Opposite Foyers rises
Mealvourvonie (2285 ft.). —
The steamer halts at Muirtown, l*/4 M.
from Inverness, and is met by the hotel-omnibuses.
Inverness. —
Hotels. "Caledonian Hotel, E. & A. from 4J., D. it.
6d. ; Station (E. & A. 4*. 6d.),
Royal, Imperial, all close to the railway-
station: Victoria, pleasantly situated on the river, B.. & A. 3». 6<J.,
D. 3j. 6<J. ; Waverlet Temperance; Muirtown Hotel, at the pier, see
above.
Inverness, the 'Capital of the Highlands', an old town with
17,400 inhab., situated at the point where the Ness' enters the
Beauly Firth, is the great travellers' centre for the N. of Scotland,
as Oban is for the "W. coast. The chief points of interest are in-
cluded in the following walk. Starting from the station we pass ,

through Union St. and Church St. ^to the (3 min.) Town Hall, a
;

modern Gothic building, in front of which, under the fountain, is

the Clach-na-Cudden, or 'stone of the tubs', regarded as the palla-
dium of Inverness. We thence ascend to the (3 min.) County
Buildings and Prison a castellated building on a hill, on which
,

stood the castle of Macbeth, supposed by some to have been the

scene of King Duncan's murder (comp. pp. 494, 499). "We leave
the castle enclosure at the "W. end, descend to the river, and walk
along the bank to (25 min.) the Islands a favourite promenade,
,

resembling the Margaretheninsel at Buda - Pesth and connected ,

with both banks by bridges. "We now cross to the left bank and
return towards Inverness, passing (10 min.) the Northern Infirmary
494 Route 67. LOCH MAREE.
and (5 rain.) the *Cathedral of St. Andrew, a handsome Dec.
building, erected in 1866-69 the interior is adorned with mono-
;

lithic granite columns and stained glass. We

may here diverge to
the left, soon again turning to the left, and visit (y4 hr.) Tom-
nahurich ('hill of the fairies') , a hill laid out as a cemetery, and
commanding a fine view of the 'rose-red' town of Inverness. From
the cathedral we return, across the Suspension Bridge, to the (5 min.)
station. Another walk may he taken in the opposite direction to
Cromwell's Fort, built by Cromwell in 1652-7, near the mouth
of the Ness , and affording a view of the Beauly and Moray Firths.

Excursions from Inverness.

To Craig Phadrig a hill 21/2 M. to the W., commanding a fine view
,

(more extensive than from Tomnahurich), and with traces of a vitrified fort.
— To Culloden Moor, 5 M. to the S.E. (one-horse carr. there and back
8-lOs.), where Prince Charles Stuart, the Pretender, was defeated onl6th April,
1746. — The Fall of Foyers (p. 493) may also he visited by carriage from
Inverness (18 M.; picturesque road; carr. and pair there and back ca. 30*.).
— To Beauly and the Falls of Kilmoracle, see below.
To Loch Makee and Gairloch, 77 M., in 7 hrs. (fares 1st cl. 16s. 9<J.,
3rd cl. 13s.). From Inverness via, Dingwall to (47 M.) Achnasheen, see
p. 506. At Achnasheen we change from the railway (which goes to Strome
Ferry on the W. coast, see below) to the coach. —
The road to Loch
Maree skirts the small Loch Rosque and traverses moorlands. 10 M.
(IV2 hr.'s drive) Einlochewe ("Hotel), 2 M. from the S.E. extremity of the
loch. A mail-cart plies from Einlochewe to (12 M.) Loch Torridon (fare
3s.). *Loch Maree is a wild and romantic lake, 18 M. long, surrounded
by lofty mountains. To the N. rises Ben Slioch (3216 ft.). A small steamer
now plies on the loch, and travellers may leave the coach at Rhu Nohar and
proceed by water to the other end. About halfway down the S. side of
the loch is the (9 M. ; l'/2hr.) "Loch Maree Hotel (boats for hire). Another
coach is in waiting sX\Tollie, at the W. end of the loch, and takes us to
(51/2 M.) Gairloch (Hotel), on the W. coast. —
The excursion to Loch
Maree may be made part of either of the following pleasant tours (2-3
days) from Inverness: 1. Train to Strome Ferry (p. 506) in 4 hrs.; steamer
via Broadford, Plockton,' and Raasay to (4 hrs.) Portree in Skye and back
to (2 hrs.) Gairloch on the mainland; coach and steamer on Loch Maree
to (4'/2 hrs.) Achnasheen; train to (2y2 hrs.) Inverness (or in reverse direc-
tion). 2. By rail to Strome Ferry in 4 hrs.; steamer to Stomoway, in the
Isle of Lewis, and thence to Ullapool (p. 509) , on the coast, about W.
20 M. to the N. of Loch Maree; thence by coach to (33 M.) (p. 506), Game
on the railway. —
Stomoway (Imperial; Lews; Royal), the chief place in
the Hebrides, with about 3000 inhab., is, perhaps, scarcely so fascinating
in reality as in the pages of William Black, but is worth visiting by those
who enjoy steamboat-sailing and wild rocky scenery. It may also be
reached by steamer from Glasgow (40 hrs.), Oban, Portree, Gairloch, Poolewe,
Loch Inver, etc.
From Inverness to Glasgow or Edinburgh, railway via Perth, in
7-12 hrs. (fares to Glasgow 34s. 6d., 17s. 2^.; to Edinburgh 33s. 6d.,
15s. Kfl/td.). The most picturesque part of the Highland Railway is
described at pp. 500-502. From Perth to Edinburgh or Glasgow, see RR.
68 b, 69.
From Inverness to Aberdeen, 109 M., railway in 5 hrs. (fares 18*. Id.,
9s. id.).After the coast is quitted, the scenery on this line is comparatively
uninteresting. —
On leaving Inverness a fine view is obtained, to the left,
of the Moray Firth. 3 M. Culloden, to the S. of which lies Culloden Moor
(see above). —
15 M. Nairn ("Marine, large, facing the sea; Anderson's),
 FORTH BRIDGE. 68. Route. 495

finely situated on the Moray Firth, much frequented as a sea-bathing

resort, and for its dry, mild climate. —
From Nairn a drive may he taken
to (6M.) Cawdor Castle, the supposed scene of the murder of Duncan in
Macbeth. The Castle, however, dates only from the middle of the 15th
century. —
25 M. Torres (Royal Station; Charleson's, in the town; Cluny Hill
Hydropathic, finely situated on a hill 1 M. from the station), the junction
of the Highland railway to Grantown (a favourite inland watering-place),
Kingussie, Blair Athole, and Perth (comp. p. 502). —
About 1 M. to the
N.E. is Sweno's Stone, a pillar about 20 ft. high, supposed to have been
erected about 1014 to commemorate the expulsion of the Danes, and
covered with carvings of figures and other objects. A
drive may be
taken to "Findhom Glen. —
About 3 M. beyond Forres we pass on the left
the ruins of Kinloss Abbey, founded in 1150. From (32 M.) Alves a branch-
line diverges to Burghead. —
37 M. Elgin ( Station Hotel ; Gordon Arms),- a
town of 9843 inhab., with a fine "Cathedral, chiefly in the E.E. style,
founded in 1221 and rebuilt after a fire in 1390. It is very richly decorated
(exquisite tracery), but is to a great extent in ruins. The best-preserved
parts are the chapter-house and the two W. towers. The central tower,
200 ft. high, fell in 1711. The ruins of the bishop's palace and the Grey-
friars' Monastery are also interesting. An excursion may be made to
(6 M.) Pluscarden Abbey, a Cistercian foundation of 1230. Elgin is the
junction of railways to Lossiemouth and Buckie on the coast, and to Rothes
and Boat of Garten (on the Highland Railway; p. 502). —
55 M. Keith
(Gordon Arms), the junction of the Highland and North of Scotland Rail-
ways. 67 M. Huntly; 87 M. Inveramsay Junction, for Turriff and Banff
(Fife Arms); 92 M. Inverurie; 102 M. Dyce Junction, for (2 hrs.) Peterhead
and Fraserburgh.
[Peterhead (Royal), a town with 11,000 inhab., is an important port for
the herring-fishery and possesses quarries of red granite. It was the birth-
place of Marshal Keith (d. 1758), of whom a statue, presented by King
William I. of Prussia in 1868, stands in front of the town-hall. Fraser- —
burgh is also an important fishing-station.]
109 M. Aberdeen, see p. 504.

68. From Edinburgh to Aberdeen by the Direct

Railway Routes.
a. North British Railway, via the Forth Bridge.
131 M. Railway in 372-4 hrs. (fares 21s., 9*. 8d.). This is the shortest
and most direct route from Edinburgh to Aberdeen. Comp., however,
the remark at the head of R. 69.
Edinburgh (Waverley Station), see p. 464. l'/3 M. Haymarket.
The new Forth Bridge line diverges to the right from the line to
Glasgow (R. 65) near (3V2 M
) Corstorphine. —
9'/2 M. Forth
Bridge Station, where the Glasgow trains join ours (see p. 475),
is the station for South Queensferry (p. 475).
The train now crosses the "Forth Bridge, pronounced by
M. Eiffel 'the greatest construction of the world' and undoubtedly
the most striking feat yet achieved by engineering in bridge-
building. Fine views up and down the river.
This wonderful bridge, the total length of which, including the ap-
proaches, is 2765 yds., was begun in 1883 and finished in March, 1890, at
a cost of 2,500,000?. It is built on the 'cantilever and central girder sys-
tem', the principle of which is that of 'stable equilibrium', its own weight
helping to maintain it more firmly in position. Each of the main spans,
1700-1710 ft. in length (100 ft. lorger than that of Brooklyn Bridge), is
formed of two cantilevers, eacb 680 ft. long, united by a girder 350 ft.
49G Route titi. BUJRNTISLAND. From Edinburgh

long. The steel towers from which the cantilevers spring are 360 ft. high
(not much lower than the dome of St. Paul's) and are supported on granite
piers, that in the middle resting on the small island of Inchgarvie. The
clear headway at high water is 151 ft. ; the deepest foundations are 88 ft.
below high "water. The total weight of metal in the bridge is 50,000 tons,
or five times as much as that of the Britannia Bridge fp. 283). The
designers and constructors of the bridge were Sir John Fowler and Sir
Benjamin Baker.
1374 M. Inverkeithing (Hotel), at the N. end of the Forth
Bridge , is the station for North Queensferry and the junction
of lines to the N. to Dunfermline (for Perth, Stirling, etc. ; see
R. 69) and to the E. to Burntisland, Kirkcaldy, etc. The Aberdeen
train follows the latter line, which skirts the N. hank of the estuary
of the Forth. — 18 M. Aberdour (Greig's), a favourite little sea-
•

bathing place, with an old castle and the ruins of a Norman church.
Adjacent are the pleasant grounds of Donibristle, seat of the Earl
of Moray. A boating-excursion may be made to the islet of Inch-
colm. In summer steamers ply from Aberdour to Leith (p. 465). A
pretty wooded walk leads hence along the shore to (3 M.) Burnt-
island (see below).
21 M. Burntisland (Forth Hotel), a small seaport and watering-
place, is connected with (5 M.) Oranton (p. 474; frequent trains
to the Waverley Station at Edinburgh, 4y 2 M.) by a steam-ferry
(fares 10<i, 5d.), but has lost some of its importance since the
main traffic of the N.B.R. with the North has been diverted to
the Forth Bridge route. In the firth, about halfway to Granton (to
the left), lies the fortified island of Inchkeith. —
23 J /2 M. King-
horn. — 26'/2 M. Kirkcaldy (George), a straggling town of 24,000
inhab., extending along the shore for 2 M., with a school in which
Thomas Carlyle and Edward Irving were once teachers. —
Near
(29 M.) Dysart the line turns to the N. and quits the Firth of
Forth. — At (32 M.) Thornton Junction we oross the railway ex-
tending on the W. to Dunfermline and Stirling (comp. pp. 500, 484)
and on the E. to St. Andrews (see below). —
35 M. Markinch is
the junction of a line to Leslie. At the village of Falkland (Bruce
Arms), 3 M. to the W. of (37'/2 M.) Falkland Road, is an old royal
Palace (16th cent.) now used as a private dwelling-house. At
,

(40'/2 M.) Ladybank lines diverge to Perth (p. 498) and Kinross
(p. 500). — 46 M. Cupar (Royal; Tontine), the county-town of
Fifeshire, with 5000 inhabitants. — 52 M. Leuchars is the junc-
tion of a short line to (4^2 M.) St. Andrews.
St. Andrews (Royal; Gross Keys; Marine), an ancient town with 6500
inhab., long the ecclesiastical metropolis of Scotland, is the seat of one of
the four Scottish universities (founded 1411) , and is perhaps the most
fashionable watering-place in the country. It is the 'Metropolis of Golf,
and the chief Golf Meetings, in May and October, attract large gatherings
of visitors. It is one of the most ancient towns of Scotland, and the see
of St. Andrews dates back to the 8th century. Patrick Hamilton, one of
the first (1527), and Walter Mill (1558), the last Scottish martyr of the
Reformation, both suffered at St. Andrews. George Wishart was also
burned here in 1545, and his execution led to the speedy death of the
Archbishop, Cardinal Beaton, who was assassinated in his palace in 1546
 ta Aberdeen. DUNDEE. 68. Route. 497

by several of Wishart's friends. The ruins of the -Cathedral, built

between 1159 and 1318, show that it must have been a very fine and
extensive edifice. Adjacent is the square Tower of St. Regulus (108 ft.;
view) erected about 1130, but assigned by popular tradition to a Pictish
monarch of the 4th cent. , and said to have been built in honour of St.
Regulus, a Greek saint, shipwrecked here with the bones of St. Andrew,
who henceforth became the patron-saint of Scotland. It may, however,
occupy the site of an original Culdee cell. Near the W. end of the Cathe-
dral is the beautiful arcade known as the Pends. On a rock rising above
the sea is the old Castle of the bishops. Opposite Madras College, a large
school attended by about 900 boys, is a beautiful little fragment of a
Dominican priory of the 13th century. The University of St. Andrews con-
sists of the College of St. Mary (theological) and the United Colleges of
SS. Salvator and Leonard. A visit should be paid to the fine Golf Links,
alive during the season with hundreds of votaries of the Scottish national
pastime. — Beyond St. Andrews the line goes on along the coast to Grail,
Anstruther, Elie, Largo, Leven (all sea-bathing and golfing resorts), and
Thornton Junction (see p. 496).
Leuchars is also the junction of a line to Tayport, opposite BToughty
Ferry (see below).
The train now crosses the Tay by the substantial new Tay
Bridge, 2 M. long, opened in 1887 and replacing an older railway
bridge, which was swept away by a hurricane on 28th Dec, 1879,
precipitating a passenger train into the river. "We then enter the
Tay Bridge Station at —
61 M. Dundee (Queen's; Royal; Royal British; Lamb's Tem-
perance), the third town of Scotland in size, with 145,000 inhab.,
a busy commercial and manufacturing place (linen, jute, etc.), but
possessing little interest for the tourist. The *Old Steeple (156 ft.
nigh) , in the Nethergate dates from the 14th century , and is one
,

of the finest church-towers in Scotland (adm. 2d. view). Adjacent

;

is the Town Cross (1586). The Albert Institute, with a museum

and picture-gallery, is a modern Gothic edifice by Sir G.G. Scott.
The University College was established in 1883 , chiefly with Miss
Baxter's bequest of 140,000i. The Royal Infirmary is an exten-
sive building. Good views are obtained from the Esplanade,
skirting the Tay from the Baxter Park , and from Dundee Law
,

(570 ft.) — From Dundee to Perth, see p. 499.

The train now turns to the E. and skirts the N. bank of the Tay
estuary. 66 M. Broughty Ferry, a favourite residence of the citizens
of Dundee, at the mouth of the Tay; 67 M. Monifieth; 71 1/2 M.
Carnoustie, a watering-place, with golf-links. The line skirts
the coast, with views of the sea. —
78 M. Arbroath ( White Hart;
George), an industrial town and seaport, with 22,000 inhab., pos-
sesses an interesting ruined * Abbey, founded by William the Lion
in 1178. The remains are mainly E.E. About 10 M. off the coast
is the Inehcape or Bell Rock Lighthouse. — 92'/2 M. Montrose
(Star; Queen's), a clean little seaport at the mouth of the South
Esk, with 14,800 inhabitants. Montrose is said to have been the
birthplace of the Marquis of Montrose (in 1612), and it was the
first place in Scotland where Greek was taught. A
branch runs
hence to the N. to (12 M.) Bervie.
Baedekeb'8 Great Britain. 2nd V.AH 32
498 Route 68. PERTH. From Edinburgh

At (94^2 M.) Hillside our line unites -with the Caledonian

Railway (see below). Stations Laurencekirk and Fordoun. —
117 M.
Stonehaven (Royal; TJrie), the county-town of Kincardine, visited
for bathing (4000 inhab.). A little to the S. (to the left of the rail-
way), perched upon a rock overhanging the sea, are the picturesque
ruins of *Dunnottar Castle, built in the 13th cent, and afterwards
possessed by the Keiths, Earls Marischal of Scotland.
131 M. Aberdeen, see p. 504.

b. Caledonian Railway.
158 M. Railway in 5-6 hrs. (fares as above). Comp. p. 500.
From Edinburgh (Waverley) to (36 M.) Stirling and (40 M.)
Dunblane, see R. 66. Here the line to Callander and Oban (comp.
pp. 484, 489) diverges to the left, while the Perth line runs to
the right (N.). 50 M. Oreenloaning. — From (57!/2M.) Crieff Junc-
tion a short branch diverges to (9 M.) Crieff.
Crieff C Royal Hotel Drummond Arms; "Hydropathic), a town with 45C0
;

inhab., situated on a hill in the midst of a finely-wooded district, is a good

centre for excursions. In the neighbourhood are several well-preserved
old castles :Drummond Castle (3 M. to the S.), the seat of Baron Wil-
loughby de Eresby; Ochtertyre, 21/2 31. to the N.W. ; Monzie (pron. Monee),
3 M. to the N. ; etc. —A four-in-hand coaeh is in waiting at Crieff station
to take passengers on to Lochearnhead (22 M., in 4 hrs.), a delightful drive.
The road leads through a well-wooded country, past (7 M.) Comrie (Royal),
noted for slight earthquakes, to (6 M.) St. Fillans ('Hotel), a lovely little
village at the E. end of Loch Earn. From St. Fillans the road skirts the U.
bank of the Loch all the way to (7 M.) Lochearnhead Station (p. 492). To
the left rises Ben Voirlich (3224 ft.). The excursion may be prolonged to
Killin and Loch Tap (comp. p. 501).
68 M. Perth. —Hotels. Roial George, on the Tay, 3A M. from the
station; Perth Station Hotel, new; Pople's British Hotel, at the
station, R. &A. from 4*., D. 3s. 6d. ; Queen's, also at the station, unpretend-
ing; McMaster's Temperance, St. John's St.; Salutation, in the town.
— Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms.
Perth, picturesquely situated on the Tay, with 30,000 inhab., is
an ancient town, claiming to be of Roman origin, and long the capital
of the Scottish kings (comp. p. 466). Few traces of its antiquity
are, however, left, as the 'rascal multitude' (as Knox called the
Perth mob at the Reformation) and the municipal authorities then
and later made a clean sweep of all the old religious houses.
The principal church is St. John's, mainly of the Dec. period, with
an earlier tower in front of the high-altar Edward III. of England
;

is said to have stabbed his brother, the Duke of Cornwall, in 1336.

John Knox often preached here (ca. 1559). The County Buildings
occupy the site of the house in which the Cowrie Conspiracy against
James VI. was formed (1600). On the N. side of the town stood
the Dominican Convent, where James I. was assassinated in 1436,
in spite of the heroic action of Catherine Douglas, who made her
arm do duty for the missing bar on the door. (This incident is
finely described in Rossetti's ballad, the 'King's Tragedy'.) Ad-
joining the river are two open spaces of green sward, known as
 to Aberdeen. BRECHIN. 68. Route 499

the North and South Inch (i.e. island). The former, which, is the
larger of the two, was the scene of the judicial combat between the
Clan Chattan and the Clan Quhele, described by Scott in the 'Fair
Maid of Perth'. The 'Fair's Maid House' (so called) is shown in
Curfew Row near the North Inch. Good view from the bridge
,

over the Tay.

Those who have an hour or two to spare at Perth should ascend *Kin-
noul Hill (730 ft.), which lies on the left hank of the Tay, and may he
ascended from the railway-station in s/4 hr. The 'View is charming. —
Another good view is afforded hy Moncrieff Hill (725 ft.), 3Vz M. to the S.E.
— An excursion may also be made to (S'/zBL) Scone Palace (special permission
necessary), a modern mansion on the site of the Augustine abbey in which
the early Scottish kings were crowned.
From Perth to Dundee, 20 M., railway in Vz-1 hr. (fares 3». 6d., 2s.
6<J., Is. 8d.). This line skirts the N. hank of the Firth of Tay and traverses
the fertile Carte of Gowrie. To the left are Dunsinane and the other Sidlaw
Hills. — Dundee, see p. 497.
Beyond Perth our line runs to the N. to (72 M.) Luncarty and
(75 M.) Stanley Junction, where it diverges to the E. (right) from
the Highland Railway (see p. 500). — 80 1/% M. Coupar Angus
(Royal) is the junction of the line to Blairgowrie (p. 503). —
About 5 M. to the N. of (85 M.) Alyth Junction is the small town
of Alyth (Airlie Arms), whence a road ascends the rocky and wooded
valley of the Isla to (11 M.) Olenisla. The Isla forms several small
waterfalls, the finest of which is the Reekie Linn. Near Forter
Castle, 4 M. to the N. of Glenisla, a road leads to the W. to Glenshee
(p. 503). — At (92 M.) Olamis stands *Olamis Castle (open on
Frid.), a stately baronial hall in a fine park , said by tradition to
be the ancestral home of Macbeth. The room in which the thane
is said to have murdered Duncan in 1040 is still pointed out ! It
seems probable that Malcolm II. was really murdered heTe in 1033.
The present mansion, with its numerous towers and turrets, dates
mainly from 1578-1621. — 96'/2M. Forfar (County Arms; Royal),
an ancient town with 13,000 inhab., once the seat of the Scottish
kings, is the junction of abranch to Broughty Ferry (p. 497). — 105 M.
Outhrie Junction is the starting-point of a line to (8 M.) Arbroath
(p. 497). — From (11272 M.) Bridge-of-Dun a short branch diverges
to (4 M.) Brechin (Commercial; Crown), a town of 10,500 inhab.,
with an ancient Cathedral, founded by David I. about 1150, but
utterly spoiled by restoration in 1807. Adjacent is an interesting
Round Tower (100 ft. high), dating from the 11th cent., or perhaps
earlier. Not far off is Brechin Castle, the seat of the Earl of Dal-
housie, a modern mansion on the site of an old castle.
A pleasant excursion may be taken from Brechin through the valley
of the North Elk. At Edzell (Inns), 6V2 M. from Brechin, are the inter-
esting ruins of a large Cattle., belonging to the Earl of Dalhousie.
115 M. Dubton is the junction of a short line to Montrose. From
(11672 M.~) Hillside, where we join theN.B.R., to (155 M.) Aberdeen,
see p. 604.

32*
500

69. From Edinburgh to Aberdeen via Perth and

Blair Athole.
To this excursion, the finest route to Aberdeen, 5-6 days should be
devoted. 1st Day. Railway from Edinburgh to Perth (lV3-3'/3 hrs.; fares
3
9s. 6<J., 3s. lO'/'id.) ; and thence by an evening train, in /\ hr., to Dunkeld.
— 2nd Day. Railway from Dunkeld to Blair Athole in 1 hr. —
3rd Day.
From Blair Athole to Braemar, a walk of 9-10 hrs. (pony and guide about
30s.); two-thirds of the way may be driven. —4th Day. From Braemar
by coach, in 2'/2 hrs., to Ballater; and thence by railway, in l 3/4-2V4hrs.,
to Aberdeen. —Direct railway-route, see R. 68. —
Steamer from Leith to
Aberdeen (see p. 465), 7-8 hrs.
The Caledonian route to (68 M.) Perth has been given in R. 68j the
following is a description of the new direct route of the N.B.R. via the
Forth Bridge.
From Edinburyh (Waverley) to (i^/t M.) Inverkeithing , the
junction for the Dundee line, see E. 68. The Perth line runs to
the N. and soon enters the Lower Station of (16 3/4 M.) Dunfermline
(City Arms), a linen-manufacturing town with 17,000 inhab., of
interest to tourists for its *Abbey, founded by Queen Margaret and
Malcolm Canmore towards the end of the 11th century. Of their
building nothing now remains but the nave of the second church
;

on this site, a fine Norman edifice of 1150, still exists in conjunc-

tion with a barbarous modern structure of 1870. Robert Bruce,
whose grave is marked by a monumental brass erected in 1888, and
other Scottish monarchs are buried here. The remains of Dunferm-
line Palace are scanty. —
From Dunfermline (Upper Station) a line
runs to (23 M.) Stirling (p. 484).
19 M. Halbeath ; 2072 M. Crossgates ; 21 72 M. Cowdenbeath,
the junction of a line to Thornton Junction (for St. Andrews, Dun-
dee, etc. see p. 497) 24V 2 M. Kelty; 26% M. Blairadam. To the
; ;

right lies Loch Leven (p. 492). 291/2 M. Loch Leven Station. —
30y2 M. Kinross, the junction of a line to Alloa (see p. 485). —
At (34 M.) Mawcarse the new direct line diverges to the left from
the old line to Ladybank (p. 496) and enters the romantic vale of
*Olenfarg, the engineering difficulties of which have necessitated
two long tunnels, 22 bridges, and numerous cuttings. 37Y2 M.
Damhead. At (44 M.) Qlenfarg Junction (Bridge of Earn) our line
unites with the old line from Ladybank.
473/ 4 M
Perth, see p. 498.
.

Beyond Perth we continue our journey by the Highland Rail-

way, one of the most beautiful lines in the three kingdoms. —
4 M. (from Perth) Luncarty (p. 499) 7 M. Stanley Junction, for
;

the line to Forfar and Aberdeen (p. 504) 10y2 M. Murthly. The
;

train now skirts the base of Birnam Hill (1325 ft. to the left),
;

the woods of which marched to Dunsinane (p. 601) to the dis-,

comfiture of Macbeth.
16 M. Dunkeld (*Bimam, finely situated at the station; Athole
Arms, *Royal, in the town; Perth Arms, unpretending), a small
'city' with 750 inhab-, charmingly situated on the left bank of
 LOCHTAY. 69. Route. 501

the Tay ,
l
/% M. from the station. The finest points in the
neighbourhood are in the *Park of the Duke of Athole which ,

we reach by crossing the bridge and going straight through the

town; about 50 yds. beyond the end of the town to the left, ,

is the entrance to the park. Here we are met by a guide (adm. for
1 pers. 2s., 2 pers. 2s. 6d., each member of a party Is.), who con-
ducts us to the cathedral, the hermitage, and other points of in-
terest (a walk of l'/2-2 hrs.).
The "Cathedral, charmingly situated on a grassy lawn, dates mainly
from 1318- 1477. The choir has been restored and is used as the parish-
church of Dunkeld. Near the main door is the tombstone of the 'Wolf
of Badenoch'. Gavin Douglas (d. 1522), translator of Virgil, was Bishop
of Dunkeld. Close to the W. end of the cathedral are some of the old-
est larches in Scotland. We then walk through the pretty grounds, skirting
the Tay, to the ferry. Here we cross the river and ascend to the Falls
of the Braan and the so-called Hermitage, whence we return to P/4 hr.)
Dunkeld along the opposite hank of the Braan. This is the ordinary round,
hut for a small additional fee the guide will conduct the party up the left
hank of the Braan to the "Bumbling Bridge 0/2 hr. from the Hermitage),
in the park of Sir Douglas Stuart, with a romantic waterfall in a narrow
gorge; then along the right bank of the Braan to Dunkeld (1 hr.).
Birnam Hill (see p. 5U0), which may be ascended from the station in
3/4 hr., commands a beautiful view. Two splendid trees (an oak and a sy-
camore), close to the river, behind the Birnam Hotel, are held to repre-
sent 'Birnam Wood which came to Dunsinane'. Other walks may be taken
to Craig-y-Bams, the (3 M.) Loch of the Lowes, etc.
Fkom Dcnkeld to Aberfeldy (via Ballinluig, see below), 17 M., railway
in 1 hr. (fares 2s. iOd., 2s. id., is. 5d.). Near Aborfeldy (Breadalbane Arms;
Weem Hotel, on the other bank of the Tay, 1 M. from the station), a village
at the junction of the Moness and the Tay, are the romantic Falls of Moness
(adm. Gd.), in a pretty little glen, clothed with the rowans and larches
that have displaced the 'Birks (birches) of Aberfeldy'.
Fkom Aberfeldy to Loch Tat and Callander, a delightful and easily
accomplished excursion. Coach in summer twice daily to Killin Pier (see
below) in 3V2 hrs., and railway thence to Callander in 3/4-l hr. Or we may
ascend Loch Tay by steamer (from Kenmore to Killin). This excursion
may be combined with E. 65, as follows (circular tickets) 1st Day. From
:

Edinburgh by early train to Bunkeld (allowing 4-5 hrs. here), thence on to

Aberfeldy, and by coach or carriage (6*. Gd.) to Kenmore. 2nd Day. To
Killin, Callander, and (in the evening) the Trossachs. 3rd Day. Back to
Edinburgh via. Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond. — From Aberfeldy the coach
runs through the picturesque valley of the Tay to (5 W.) Kenmore ('Bread-
albane Hotel), situated at the point where the river flows out of ! Loch Tay
(15 M. long, V2-I M. wide), one of the finest of the Highland lakes. Adjacent
is Taymouth Castle, the seat of the Earl of Breadalbane, surrounded by finely
wooded grounds, which are open to the public (10-4). Two good roads lead
from Kenmore to Killin, the one (16 M.) along the N.W., the other (18 M.),
passing near the (2 M.) Falls of Acharn, along the S.E. shore of Loch Tay.
The coach follows the former, turning to the right at the hotel and crossing
the river (fine view from the bridge). Further on we skirt the base of Ben
Lowers (3985 ft. ; Temperance Hotel, at the foot of the mountain), enjoying
fine views of the loch. Towards the middle of the latter, the scenery he-
comes more monotonous and the verdure scanty, improving again as we
near Killin. At Killin Pier ("Lochay Hotel ; "Macpherson's Hotel) we reach
the railway , which crosses the Lochay ("View ; pretty falls higher up)
and leads to (1 M.) the pretty village of Killin (Killin Hotel) , situated
on both banks of the Dochart , near its entrance into Loch Tay. Thence
the line runs to (4 J/2 M.) Killin Junction, where we reach the railway
to Callander (p. 484) and Oban (p. 489). In front towers Ben More (3845 ft.).
Continuing to follow the Highland Railway from Dunkeld, we
 502 Route 69. BLAIR ATHOLE. From Edinburgh

soon reach ('24 M.) Ballinluiy, the junction of the line io Aberfeldy
(see above). —
28V2M. Pitlochry (Fisher's Hotel; Scotland's, small;
* Hydropathic), a favourite summer - resort, in the midst of pretty

scenery. To the right rises Ben Vrackie (2755 ft.).

About IV'2 M. to the W. are the romantic "Falls of the Hummel, whence
we may continue the walk to (5 M.) "Loch Tummel (3 M. long). The finely-
shaped mountain to the S.W. of this lake is ScMehallion (35S5 ft.). The
road ascending the Tummel, which flows through the loch of that name,
goes on to (13 M.) Kinloch Rannoch (Bun Rannoch; Macdonald Arms), at
the E. end of Loch Rannoch, which is 11 M. long. A post-gig (three seats)
runs daily from Pitlochry to Tummel Bridge Inn, 7 M. from Kinloch Ran-
noch. —Another charming spot near Pitlochry is (3 M.) Garry Bridge, at
the entrance to the Pass of Killiecrankie (see below) and near the con-
lluence of the Tummel and the Garry. —
A good walk may be taken from
Pitlochry over the hills to (11 M.) Aberfeldy (see p. 501). —
A pleasant
excursion (27-30 M.), practicable for driving, may be made from Pitlochry
to Kenmore (see p. 501), via Loch Tummel (see above).
Beyond Pitlochry the train passes through the wooded *Pass
of Killiecrankie, where the troops of William III. were defeated
in 1689 by the Jacobites under Viscount Dundee. The spot on
which Dundee (Olaverhouse) fell is still pointed out. — 33 M.
Killiecrankie.
36M. Blair Athole (*Athole Arms; Glen Tilt, smaller), in a
finely wooded with Blair Castle, the principal seat of the
district,
Duke of Athole. In the *Park (adm. Is.) are the Falls of the Fen-
der (l'/4 M. to the E.). To the W. are the *Falls of the Bruar, to
reach which we follow the road from the station to the W. for
about 3 M. and then diverge to the right. —
At Blair Athole we
leave the Highland Railway which runs hence to the N.
, via ,

Kingussie, Aviemore, Boat of Oarten, and Orantown (a favourite,

inland health-resort), to (168 M. from Edinburgh) Forres (p. 495).
Those who wish to avoid the somewhat fatiguing route through Glen
Tilt (described below) may drive from Bunkeld to Braemar by a good
road (47 M. ; coach in 6V2-7 hrs.) via Blairgowrie and Olenshee (comp.
p. 503). [The coaching distance may be reduced to 35 M. by going by rail-
way from Perth to Blairgowrie, via Gotipar Angus.] It is also possible to
drive all the way from Pitlochry to Braemar by a somewhat round-
,

about route (46 M.).

From Blair Athole to Braemar through Glen Tilt, 30 M.
This route usually accomplished on foot or on horseback (guide
is
and pony 30s.), as the middle part of it (10 M.) is not available for
carriages. It is, however, possible to drive or ride to (8 M.) Forest
Lodge, walk thence to (10 M.) Bynack Lodge, and drive or ride the
rest of the way (12 M.) by carriage or pony ordered from Braemar
by telegram. Walkers should start early and take luncheon with them,
as no inns are passed on the way. —
The route follows the Tilt closely
for the larger half of the way, passing through the wild Glen Tilt,
which contains numerous red deer. To the right rises Ben-y-Oloe
(3770 ft.), the 'mountain of the mist'. Several small waterfalls are
passed. The road ceases at (8 M.) Forest Lodge, a shooting-box of
the Duke of Athole, beyond which we follow a rough footpath.
A little beyond the (5y4 M.) Ford of Tarff, now crossed by a
 to Aberdeen. BRAEMAR. 69. Route. 503

bridge, we reach the highest point of the route (1550 ft.). At

(4'/2M.) Bynack Lodge (Earl of Fife) the road re-appears, and Ben
Muich-Dhui (4296 ft.) comes into sight in front. In 2V2 M. more
we reach and cross the Dee, and we then follow its left bank to
the (3 M.) *Linn of Dee, where the river dashes through a nar-
row rocky 'gut'. We here again cross the Dee. About IV2 M.
further on we reach a path on the right (with a placard an-
nouncing that no carriages are allowed this way), which leads to
(l^M.) the Colonel's Bed, a narrow ledge above a deep pool, which
is said to have furnished shelter to one of those who were 'out in
the 45' ; the rapids a little farther up are also fine. [Those who
make this digression have to return by the same way to the road.]
About 2 M. beyond this path, to the left, at a bridge, is a rustic
gate leading to the small but picturesque * Corriemulzie Falls (close
to the road). Nearly opposite this gate is the entrance to Mar Lodge,
seat of the Duke of Fife. Then, 3 M. —
Braemar, or Castleton of Braemar (1100 ft. Fife Arms, Inver-
;

cauld Arms, both overcrowded in the season ; Lodgings), a pleasant

spot for a stay of a few days, romantically situated on the Dee and
surrounded by lofty mountains. The environs are finely wooded.
The air is bracing and exhilarating.
To the S.W. rises Morrone Hill (2819 ft.), easily ascended in 1 hr. and
affording a good view of Braemar, Ben Muich-Dhui, etc. —To the "Falls
of Garawalt, 3-4 hrs. We follow the road to Ballater (see p. 504) for 3 M.,
and then turn to the right through a gate, on this side of Invercauld Bridge
(sign-posts). Fine view from an iron bridge ahove the falls. — Perhaps
the most interesting drive is to the (6V2 M.) Linn of Dee (as ahove), visit-
ing the Corriemulzie Falls and Colonel's Bed on the way, and returning
along the If. hank of the Dee to (9 M.) Invercauld Bridge (in all 18-19 M.).
Ben Muich-Dhui (4296 ft.), the highest mountain in Scotland after Ben
Kevis (p. 492), rises to the W. of Braemar, from which it may be ascended
in 10 hrs., there and hack (guide 10»., pony 10s.). The road to it crosses
the Dee, near Mar Lodge (see ahove), and leads to (10 M.) Derry Lodge,
up to which point driving is practicable. This reduces the necessary walk-
ing or riding (up and down) to 6V2-6 hrs. The pony-track from Derry Lodge
is easily traced. The "View from the top is very extensive. Those who
wish to descend to Aviemore (p. 502) should follow the ridge to the N. to
the (1 hr.) top of Cairngorm (4084 ft.; view) and descend thence through
Rothiemurchus Forest (guide or good map and compass desirable; also
plenty of daylight). To the right (E.) of the ridge between Ben Muich-Dhui
and Cairngorm lies the solitary and deep-blue Loch A'an, surrounded by
rocky walls, 900-1500 ft. high.
Another favourite ascent from Braemar is that of 4 Lochnagar (3770 ft.),
which lies to the S.E. (4-5 hrs.; guide Is. Gd., pony 7». &d.). The route
leads through Glen Callater, and carriages can go as far as (5'/2 M.) Loch
Callater, whence the path to the summit is fairly denned. Below the N.
shoulder lies the small lake of Lochnagar. Byron spent part of his boy-
hood in the farmhouse of Sallatrich, 5>/2 M. from Ballater, and has sung
the praises of Lochnagar in a well-known passage. — The descent may he
made (clearly marked tracks) to Ballater or Balmoral (see p. 504).
From Braemar to Blairgowrie, 35 M., coach (8 a. m.) daily in 6 hrs.,
through Qlen Clunie and the wild Glenshee. Halts are made at the (15 M.)
Spital of Glenshee Hotel and the (11 M.) Persie Inn. The highest point of
the road (2200 ft.) is near the Spital ; best views in descending. Passengers
for Perth may dine in Blairgowrie at the Royal Hotel (D. 3s., ready on ar-
rival of the coach) and go on by afternoon train. To Dunlceld, see p. 502,
504 Route 69. ABERDEEN.
From Braemar a well-appointed four-liorsc coach runs daily to
(17"/2 M
Ballater, a *Drive of 2'/2 hrs. (fares 5s., 4s.). The coach
passes Invercauld House on the left, and crosses (3M.) * Invercauld
Bridge, the finest point on the road, which follows the Dee the whole
way. 6 M. (to the right) Balmoral Castle, the Highland home of
Queen Victoria (shown, by special order, in the absence of the
Queen). The cairns which crown most of the hills here are mem-
orials of friends of Her Majesty. To the left, 3 /4 M. beyond Bal-
moral is Crathie Church where the Queen often attends divine
, ,

service. Then (IV2 M.), to the right, Abergeldie Castle, a shooting-

box of the Prince of Wales. —6'/2 M. Ballater (750 ft.; Invercauld
Arms), a small summer-resort, pleasantly situated at the foot of
the wooded Craig endarroch (1250ft.), which is frequently ascended
for the sake of the views Q/2 hr.).
From Ballater excursions may be made to Morven (288) ft.), the (6 M.)
Linn of Muick, (2 M.) Pannanich Wells, (6V2 M.) Burn of the Vat, etc. It is
also one of the recognised starting-points for an ascent of Lochnagar (see
p. 503; 4-5 hrs.).
Ballater is the terminus of the Deeside Railway, which runs
hence along the Dee to (4372M.) Aberdeen (l'/^hrs.; fares 7s. 3d.,
3s. l i l^d.'). The chief intermediate stations are (11 M.) Aboyne
(Huntly Aims), with the scat of the Marquis of Huntly, and
(26V2 M.) Banchory. Beyond (38</2 M.) Murtle, the large Deeside
Hydropathic is seen to the right.
43^2 M. Aberdeen (* Imperial, Palace, near the station, R. &A.
4s. 6d, D. 5s.; Forsyth's Temperance ; Douglas, Market St., 5 min.
from the station; Bath Temperance, R. A., & B. 3s. 6d.), which
,

may be called the capital of the N. of Scotland, is a handsome town,

chiefly built of granite, situated on the Dee, V2 M. from its mouth.
Pop. (1881) 105,003.
Aberdeen is one of the oldest towns in Scotland , though the time of
itsfoundation is obscure. The earliest known municipal charter, afterwards
extended by Robert Bruce, was granted by William the Lion in 1178. Its
characteristic industry is the production of polished granite monuments,
columns , etc. , in which about 60 firms are engaged. The art of granite-
polishing, which had been lost (as far, at least, as this country is con-
cerned) since the days of the Pharaohs, was revived here about 70 years
ago by Mr. Alexander MacdonnldfMacdonald, Field, & Co.), and has become
the chief source of the town's prosperity. Upwards of 80,000 tons of granite
are annually quarried in Aberdeenshire. The visitor should not quit
Aberdeen without going over one of the highly interesting granite-works.
Ship-building is also extensively carried on, and 'Aberdeen Clippers' have
long been celebrated; while paper-making and carpet-weaving are other
important industries. The trade of the town is very important, the chief
article of export being the granite monuments mentioned above. It has
a fine harbour and docks.
Union Street, the chief thoroughfare of Aberdeen, 3/4 M. long
and 70 ft. wide, built entirely of granite and one of the hand-

somest streets in Europe, has been described ('The Land "We Live
In') as possessing 'all the stability, cleanliness, and architectural
beauties of the London West End streets, with the gaiety and bril-
liancy of the Parisian atmosphere'. It contains the East and West
 —,

ABERDEEN. 69. Route. 505

Churches (with a tower in common), statues of the Queen and the

late Prince Albert, and numerous elaborate granite facades ; while at
its S. end stands the fine Municipal Offices, the lofty tower (210 ft.)
of which commands an extensive *View. To the N. of Union St.
behind the Music Hall, rises the imposing spire (200 ft.) of the Roman
Catholic Church, the most beautiful of the numerous church-steep-
les that form so conspicuous a feature in every view of Aberdeen.
A little to the N. of the Municipal Offices is Marischal College,
part of the University of Aberdeen, one of the four Universities of
Scotland (850 students). At No. 64 Broad St., near the College, is
the house where Lord Byron lived with his mother in his boyhood.
The chief objects of interest are, however, in Old Aberdeen (omn.
from Union St.) , the seat of a bishopric founded by David I. in
1158 which lies 1 M. to the N. at the mouth of the Don. The
, ,

Cathedral of St. Machar, dating from 1366-1522, is said to be the

only granite cathedral in Christendom. It consists of the nave only
of the original edifice, and is still in use as a parish-church. A
little
to the S. of the cathedral is "'King's College, the other member of
Aberdeen University (comp. above) founded in 1494. The only
,

remaining part of the old buildings is the Chapel, surmounted by

a fine lantern-tower and containing some beautiful wood-carving.
About 72 M. from Old Aberdeen is the picturesque Brig o' Balgow-
nie, or Old Bridge of Don, erected in 1320.
Mrt. Macdonald, widow of the late Mr. Alex. Macdonald, son of the
founder of the granite industry (see p. 504), possesses a good collection of
modern pictures, including a unique series of portraits of eminent modern
artists, mostly painted by themselves.
The Great North of Scotland Railway has arranged several pleas-
ant circular tours from Aberdeen taking in Dundee, Perth, Dunkeld, In-
,

verness, the Trossachs, etc.

70. From Inverness to Thurso and Wick.

Highland Railway to Thurso, 153 M., in 6-7 3 /4 hrs. (fares 25s. Gd.,
19s. 3d., 12j.); to WicJe, 161 M., in 6-8 hrs. (fares 26*. 9<f., 20s. 2d., 12s.);
only two through - trains daily. The picturesque district opened up by
this route offers many attractions to the angleT and the pedestrian.

Inverness, see p. 493. —

The train crosses the Ness and (1 M.)
the Caledonian Canal (p. 492), and beyond Craig Phadrig (p. 494),
on the left, comes in sight of the Beauly Firth which it skirts for
,

about 6 M.
On the opposite side of the firth is the Black Isle, the name given to
the peninsula between the Firths of Beauly and CromaTty. The chief towns
are Fortrose (874 inhab.), 10'/2 M. to the N.E. of Inverness (steamer), once
the episcopal town of Ross, with the ruins of a cathedral, and (8 M. to the
N.E.) Cromarty (1360 inhab.) the county-town of Cromartyshire, with a safe
and eommodious bay. Hugh Miller (1802-1856) was a native of Cromarty.
Opposite (6 M.) Lentran rise Redcastle, dating from 1179, in
the Black Isle, and (3 M. to the W.) Tarradale, birthplace of Sir
Roderick Murchison (1792-1871). Beyond (7 M.) Clunes we cross
the Beauly by a viaduct , from which there is a view to the left, ,
506 Uoute 70. DINGWALL. From Inverness

of Beaufort Castle (1885), the imposing seat of Lord Lovat, chief

of the Fraseis.
10 M. Beauly (pron. 'Bewley'; Beauty ; Lovat Arms ; Caledonian).
The village, 1 /^ M. to the right, contains a ruined Priory of 1230.
A pleasant walk or drive may be taken hence to the (3 M.) Falls of
Kilmorack and (10 M.) Struy. Good walkers may go on thence through
Glen Affric to (52 M. from Beauly, mail-cart daily to Invercannich, 17 M.)
Glen Shiel, on the W. coast, one of the grandest walks in Scotland; or
through Glen Slrathfarrar to (35 M.) Strathcarron (see below); or through
Glen. Cannich to (40 M.) Loch Alsh (p. 493). Inns are few and far between on
these routes. The Falls of the Glomach, the highest and wildest in Scot-
land, may be visited from the Shiel Inn (10 M.), or from Balmacara Hotel
(p. 493) on Loch Alsh (16 M.).
13 M. Muir of Ord (Tarradale Inn), famous for its sheep and
cattle markets. Beyond (16 M.) Conon we come in sight of the
Cromarty Firth and cross the Conon.
18y2 M. Dingwall (National; Caledonian), the quiet but pros-
perous-looking county-town of Ross , at the head of the Cromarty
Firth. Pop. 1917.
A branch-line (fares 9d., Id., 41/2 <Z.) runs hence in 10 min. to (4 3/4 M.)
Strathpeffer (200 ft. ; Ben Wyvis; Spa; Strathpeffer), a much visited Spa,
with sulphur and chalybeate springs, to which omnibuses also ply from
Dingwall station. Numerous excursions in the picturesque neighbourhood.
Ben Wyvis (3429 ft. ; guide and pony 20s.) is easily ascended hence in 8 hrs.
(there and back).
From Dingwall to Stkome Ferry, 53M., railway in 2>/2-3 hrs. (fares 8s.
\0d., 6s. 8d., is. bd.). This picturesque line traverses Scotland from E. to
W. From (12 I /2 M.) Garve (Inn) a coach runs to (33 SI.) Ullapool (p. 509).
,

To tbe left we pass Loch Luichart. At (28 M.) Achnasheen diverges the
coach-road to Loch Maree (p. 494) and (29 M.) Gairloch (p. 494). From
(46 M.) Strathcarron a road runs to (4 M.) Lochcarron, whence Loch Torridon
may he visited. — 53 M. Strome Ferry, see p. 494.
Beyond Dingwall the railway skirts Cromarty Firth on the right,
with a view of Ben Wyvis (see ahove) on the left. At (25 M.) Novar
the misnamed Aultgraat ('Ugly Burn') descends through the *Black
Rock of Kiltearn, a curious deep and narrow gorge. —
31 J /2 M. In-
vergordon (Commercial), a thriving little shipping-port, with 1119
inhab., and a ferry to the Black Isle (p. 505). On the opposite side
of the firth appears Cromarty (p. 505). 40 M. Fearn gave name to
an abbacy founded in 1230, of which Patrick Hamilton (burned
1527), the first martyr of the Reformed faith in Scotland, was titu-
lar abbot. To the right lies the circular Loch Eye. A little farther
on we obtain a fine view over the flat Fendom More, terminating in
Tarbat Ness on the N., and over Dornoch Firth, behind which rise
the Sutherland hills.
44 M. Tain (Royal; Balnagown Arms), a quiet little town, with
2221 inhab., on Dornoch Firth, contains an ancient Tower, now
forming part of the County Buildings, and the Gothic Church of <S'(.
Duthac or Duthus, erected in the 14th cent., and restored in 1871-76.
About 4 M. to the N.W. is Meikle Ferry, where we may cross the Firth
to Skibo, 5 M. to the N. of which is Dornoch (Sutherland Arms), the clean
and quiet county-town of Sutherland, with a 13th cent. Cathedral now ,

used as the parish-church and one tower of a castle destroyed in 1570.

,

Good sea-bathing and golfing. —

The nearest station is The Mound (see
 to Wick. LAIRG. 70. Route. 507
below), 7 M. to the N. (mail-cart daily, 2s.), and no less than 34 M. from
Tain by the circuitous route followed by the railway.
Beyond Tain the railway skirts the upper part of Dornoch Firth.
— 57M. BonarBridge Rfmt. Rooms, the last before Thurso and
(Rail.
Wick Balnagown Arms,
; 1to the S.). We next cross the Catron
M.
Water and shortly afterwards the Kyle of Sutherland formed by ,

the Shin and Oykell. Fine views to the left. From (61 M.) lnvershin
(Inn), the first station in Sutherland, the train ascends the preci-
pitous valley of the Shin, high above the stream.
663/4 M. Lairg. The village (Sutherland Arms) lies 2 M. from
the station, at the foot of Loch Shin (17 M. long, 1-2 M. broad).
The highly picturesque country to the W. and N.W. is traversed by
several mail cart routes from Lairg: (1) To Loch Inver (p. 609), 49 M. in
8-9 hrs. (fare 12*.), via Oykell Bridge (Inn), Ledmore, Inchnadamph (*Inn),
and Loch Assynt. (2) To Scourie (44 M. ; 12s.; p. 509) and Durnets (56 M.;
15*.; p. 510), via Loch Shin and Overscaig Inn to Laxford Bridge, where
the routes separate; (3). To Tongue (38 M. ; 7*. 6<J.) via Altnaharra (Inn),
on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., returning on the alternate days.
The railway now descends to the coast through Strathfleet. 78 M.
The Mound, so called from a mound 1000 yds. long, constructed by
Telford across Loch Fleet to afford a passage for the road. Mail-
cart to Dornoch, see p. 506. — 82^2 M. Oolspie (Sutherland Arms),
a pleasant but somewhat dull village with 956 inhab., on the coast.
About 3/4 M. to the E. is Dunrobin Castle, the magnificent seat of
the Duke of Sutherland, a modern edifice incorporating the remains
of an ancient fortress dating from 1097 (visitors admitted).
We now cross the Brora to (88Y2 M-) Brora (Inns), with coal-
mines. In this neighbourhood numerous Pictish remains have been
found, including Cinn Trolla, a Pictish house, passed by the rail-
way 3 M. farther on. At (95 3/4 M.) Loth we pass Glen Loth, where
the last wolf was killed in Scotland in 1680. lOl 1 ^ M. Helms-
dale (MacLeod's; Commercial), a flourishing seat of the herring-
fishery, with a ruined castle (15th cent.). The railway here abruptly
leaves the coast to avoid the Ord of Caithness, and ascends the un-
interesting Strath Ullie.
From Helmsdale a road runs along the coast to (38 M.) TPtci, via (9'/2M.)
M
Berriedale, (15 l /2 M.) Dunbeath (Inn), (19 ) Latheron (Inn), (21 M.) Fofst
(Inn), and (aP/i M.) Lybster (Portland Arms), an important fishing village.
The Suisgill Burn, on the right, beyond (1103/4 M.") Kildonan,
was the scene of the 'Sutherland gold-diggings' in 1868-69. To the
left liesLoch Ruar. From (12872 M.) Forsinard a road runs due N.
up Strath Halladale, to (16 M.) Melvich (p. 510). The scenery im-
proves. To the left are the two peaks of Ben Orian (1930 ft. 1900 ft.)
,

and (farther off) Ben Loyal (2500ft.) and Ben Hope (3040 ft); and
in the distance to the right rise Morven (2313 ft.), the Maiden Pap
(1587 ft), and Scaraven (2054 ft.). 145 3/4 M. Halkirk is situated on
the Thurso River, a famous salmon-stream. The ancient Brawl
Tower is fitted up as an anglers' hotel.
At (147'/4 M.) Georgemas Junction the line to (53/4 M.) Thurso
diverges to the N.
 ;

508 Route 70. WICK.

Thurso (Royal; Station, St. Clair, Commercial, smaller), an irregu-
larly built town with 4026 inhab., is situated on a bay commanding a fine
view of Hoy (p. 511). Large quantities of Caithness llagstones are exported
annually. The harbour is small, and all large vessels lie in Scrabster
Roads, 2M. to the N.W. To the E. rise Thurso Castle, a handsome mod-
ern residence, and Harold's Tower, over the tomb of Earl Harold (d. 1190),
who ruled Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. —Steamer from Scrabster
to Orkney (p. 511) daily; to Leith once a week; coach from Thurso to Wick
daily; mail-car to Tongue (p. 510), on Mon., Wed., and Friday. —Dunnet
Head (346 ft.), about 14 M. by road from Thurso, is the most northerly
point of Scotland.
Beyond Georgemas we pass Loch Watten, on the left.
161 M. Wick (Station; Caledonian), the chief seat of an exten-
sive and important fishery district with a harbour recently im-
,

proved at a cost of 100 OOOi. During the herring - season the

ordinary population of about 8000 is nearly doubled. The view of
the herring-fleet entering or leaving the harbour, and the operations
of cleaning and packing the fish are characteristic. About l 1 ^ M.
to the S. of the town is the Auld Man o' Wick a square tower of
,

the castle of Old Wick.

A coach runs daily to (16 M.) the site of John o' Groats House (Hotel).
John o' Groat , according to the legend was a Dutchman, who built an
,

octagonal house, with eight doors and containing an eight-sided table, in

order to prevent disputes as to precedence in his family. —About l 1 /^ M.
to the E. is Duncansby Head (210 ft.) with fine cliff-scenery and sea-view.
Steamers ply from Wick to Aberdeen and Leith, twice a week, and to
Kirkwall, once a week in summer. Coach daily to (21 M.) Thurso (see above)
and another to Lybster and Dunbeath (p. 507).

71. From Gairloch to Ullapool, Loch Inver, Durness,

and Thurso.
206 M. Coast Road practicable all the way for carriages, which may be
hired at the principal hotels en route. Various short-cuts for pedestrians.
There is no public conveyance all the way, but Mail-Carts ply over certain
stages: e.g. Gairloch to (14 M.) Aultbea; Seourie to (25 M.) Durness ; Tongue
to (43 M.) Thurso. The tourist may also avail himself of the steamers from
Oban (Glasgow), calling weekly at Gairloch, Poolewe, Aultbea, Ullapool,
and Loch Inver (on the northward journey only), to Stornoway, and thence
to Thurso, direct. During the season the Thurso steamers also call occa-
sionally at Tnverpolly, Badcall, Loch Inchard, and Loch Eribol (see Mac-
Bray lie's Monthly Sailing Bills). Sailing or rowing-boats may be hired at va-
rious points.— Dundonnell, Ullapool, Loch Inver, etc., are convenient start-
ing places for excursions into the interior of Ross and Sutherland; and at va-
rious points mail-cart routes diverge to the E. and S.E., connecting with
R. 70 at Garve (p. 506), Lairg (p. 507), etc. It should be noted that after the
beginning of August, when deer-stalking begins, the liberty of traversing
the moors and ascending the mountains is much curtailed. Anglers will
find numerous good streams in this district, about which information is
supplied at the hotels.
From Gairloch to Ullapool, 42 M. Gairloch, see p. 494. The
road leads to the N.E., via (3 M.) Loch Tollie, whence there is a fine
*View of Loch Maree (p. 494), to (7 M.) Poolewe , at the head of
Loch Eire. 14 M. Aultbea (Inn) lies opposite the well-cultivated
Ewe Island. The rough road hence to (21 M.) Oruinard, at the
mouth of the river of the same name , may be avoided by ferrying
 LOCH TNTER. 71. Route. 509

from Sand, 3 M. from Aultbea, to Monkcastle. A little farther on

we obtain a fine view of Little Loch Broom between Sailmor
,

(2508 ft.) on the S. and Ben Ooleach (2082 ft.) on the N. At the
head of the loch lies (30 M.) Dundonnell (Inn).
To the S. lies the mountainous Dundonnell Forest culminating in
,

Challich (An Teallach; 3483 ft.). — The road to (35 M.) Oarve (p. 506) as-
cends the picturesque course of the Strathbeg River, which enters the loch
at Dundonnell.
The road now surmounts the col to the N., and descends to Loch
Broom ('Loch of the Showers') at (37 M.) Aultnaharrie Ferry,
whence we cross to (1 M.) —
42 M. Ullapool (Royal Hotel), a regularly built village with ,

897 inhab. and a good harbour. Founded in 1788 by the British

Fishery Society as a fishing-station, Ullapool has lost its importance
with the decline of the herring-fishery.
Steamer daily to Stornoway (5 ».) ; mail-cart (7*.) daily to (33 M.) Garve
(p. 506).
From Ullapool to Loch Inver, 32 M. —
We skirt Loch Broom
for some miles, with a view of Isle Martin to the left, strike inland
at the Cainaird River, and beyond the slopes of Ben More (2430 ft.)
turn to the W. along the N. banks of Loch Lurgan and Loch Bad-
degyle, with Coulbeg and Stack folly on our right. 23 M. Inver-
polly lies a little beyond the river Polly. Crossing the Kirkaig, with
a view, to the right, of Suilven and (farther off) Canisp (see below),
we reach (31 M.) the Culag Hotel, about !/a M. from the hotel at
Loch Inver.
32 M. Loch Inver (Hotel), with good sea-bathing, is a tourist
and summer resort of growing popularity.
Among the numerous excursions conveniently made hence are those
to Suilven or the Sugarloaf (2399 ft.), Canitp (2779 ft.), "Loch Atsynt, Quinag
(2653 ft.), etc. Mail-cart daily to Lairg (comp. p. 507) ; steamer weekly to
Stornoway (p. 494).
From Loch Inver to Scourib, 30 M. The usual carriage route
ascends the valley of the Inver and skirts the N. bank of *Loch
Assynt to (11 M.) Skaig Bridge, whence it runs to the N. between
Qlasven (2540 ft. right) and Quinag (left). At (18 M.) Kylesku
;

Ferry (Inn) we cross the strait between Loch Caimbawn (on the left)
and Lochs Olencoul and Olendhu (on the right). The road approaches
the coast again at Edrachillis Bay, a few miles to the S. of Scourie.
A shorter route diverges to the W. from the above at Loch Inver, and
runs round the coast to (15 M.) Drumbeg, whence we ferry (5i.) to(22M.)
Badcall, on Edrachillis Bay (see above). 24 M. Scourie. This route should
be chosen by those who have already seen Loch Assynt.
30 M. Scourie (Inn) is a straggling village, with a view of the
island of Handa, interesting to ornithologists.
Mail-car to (25 M.) Durnets, see p. 510; to Lairg, see p. 507.
From Scourie to Durness, 26 M. —
A steep ascent brings us
to (7M.) Laxford Bridge (p. 507). 12M. Rhiconich Inn, at the head
of Loch Inchard. To the right rises Foinaven (2980 ft.). 25 M. —
Durness (Durine Inn), at the mouth of the Kyle of Durness, with a
view of Hoy (p. 511).
 .

51 Route 71 HOPE RIVER.

About 13 M. to the N.W. (good road) is Cape Wrath, the N.W. extrem-
ity of Scotland, with majestic cliffs from 250 to 600ft. high. On the
cape is a lighthouse.
From Durness to Thurso, 76 M. The road runs along the ex-
treme N. coast of Scotland. 1 M. *Smoo Cave, consisting of several
huge chambers in the limestone rock. Farther on the road encir-
cles Loch Eribol (fine scenery), but pedestrians may save 10 M, by
means of the ferry to (18 M.) Heilim on the E. bank. Carriages as
well as pedestrians are next ferried over the (20 M.) Hope River
and the (27 M.) Kyle of Tongue to (30 M.) Tongue (Hotel at the
village of Kirkiboll). Thence we proceed over the Boro-j« to(43'/2M.)
Bettyhill of Fart (Inn), at the mouth of Stralhnaver. From (54i/2 M.)
Strathy a coach plies daily to Thurso (2s.). 58 M. Melvich (Inn;
to Forsinard, see p. 507). Shortly before reaching (65 M.) Reay
(Inn) we enter Caithness. We cross the Forss Water. 76 M. —
Thurso (p. 508).

72. Orkney and Shetland Islands.

Steamer daily from Scrabster (p. 508) to Scapa and Stromness (fares
7s., 4s.), touching at Hoxa (for St. Margaret's Hope) on the return voyage.
— From Leith, via (12 hrs.) Aberdeen, twice weekly to (24 hrs.) Kirkwall
(22s., 10s.) and (ca. 34 hrs.) Lerwick (26s., 10s. 6d.), touching on the alter-
nate voyages at Wick and St. Margaret's Hope; and once weekly to
(24 hrs.) Stromness (20s., 9s.), Scalloway (26s., 10s. 6<J.) and Hillswick.
Return-tickets, available for three months, on all these routes, at a fare
and a half. In winter the steamers ply less frequently. —
From Kirkwall
the 'Orcadia' plies twice weekly to the N. of Orkney, and from Lerwick
the 'Earl of Zetland' twice weekly to the N. of Shetland; apply for all
information at the offices of the North of Scotland and Orkney and Shet-
land Steam Navigation Co. at Kirkwall, Lerwick, or Scalloway. See—
'The Orkneys and Shetland', by John R. Tudor, with maps and illustrations
(1883; 2is.).
The Orkney Islands (375 sq. M.; pop. 32,0.44) are 67 in
number, of which 28 are inhabited. Pomona or Mainland (pop.
17,165) is the largest. They are separated from the N. of Scotland
by the tempestuous Pentland Firth, 6'/2-8 M. wide. The Shetland
Islands (551 sq. M. pop. 29,705), about 100 in number, 29 in-
;

habited, lie 50 M. to the N.E. of the Orkneys, with which they are
united to form a county. Mainland (pop. 20,821) is the largest.
The inhabitants of these northern archipelagoes, who pride themselves
upon their Scandinavian origin, stoutly refusing to call themselves Scots,
speak a dialect of English, with, especially in Shetland, an infusion of
Norse words; and they still retain many peculiar manners and customs.
The Udallers, or small landowners ('peerie lairds'), are the only real
freeholders in Scotland. The chief occupations are agriculture and fish-
ing, the latter of which has recently been largely developed, so that
Shetland is now one of the chief seats of the Scottish herring-fishery.
Shetland hand-knit shawls and hosiery, and Shetland ponies are also
noted. The chief attractions of the islands are the magnificent coast-
scenery, and the brochs or round towers and other prehistoric antiquities,
most abundant in Orkney. Their historical interest also is not small,
and Sir Walter Scott has made them classic ground by his 'Pirate'.
Anglers find excellent fishing for sea-trout and brown trout.
The best time for visiting these islands is between the middle of
 STROMNESS. 72. Route. 511

June and the end of August. A week will be found ample time by the
ordinary tourist. Enquiries as to inns or night-quarters in the northern
parts of the groups should be made beforehand.

1. The Orkney Islands.

The steamer from Sorabster (p. 508) to Stromness crosses the

Pentland Firth, and stops first at (4-6 hrs.) Scapa on Mainland, ,

2 M. to the S. of Kirkwall, whence carriages meet the hoat.

Stromness (Mason's Arms ; Commercial) a picturesque and ,

prosperous little seaport, with 1705 inhab., on a sheltered bay, was

the birthplace of John Gow, the 'Cleveland' of Scott's 'Pirate', and
of Geo. Stewart, the 'Torquil' of Byron's poem 'The Island'.
Excursions. To the island of *Hoy (Ship Hotel, at Longhope), about
1 day; boat 10s., to the 'Old Man" 15s. The chief points in Hoy are the
fine cliffs on the N. and N.W. coast (including the Old Man of Hoy, an
isolated and conspicuous column of sandstone, 450 ft. high), the Daarfie
Stone, and Ward Bill (1564 ft.), the highest point in the county. — To
(12 M.) Birsay, via Black Crag (406 ft.), Bole of Rowe, and other fine
points on the W. coast of Mainland. At Birsay are a ruined Palace (16th
cent.), by a natural son of James V., a broch, and two ruined
built
churches. —
To (14 M.) Kirkwall, see below.
Kirkwall, i.e. 'Church Bay' (Kirkwall; Castle), the capital of
Orkney is a clean but dull town with 3947 inhab. and a good
, ,

harbour. The *Cathedral of St. Magnus (Norm, and E. E.), founded

in 1137 but not completed till 1540, is one of the three old Scottish
cathedrals that are still in nearly complete preservation. The
chancel has good rose-windows. Adjoining are the ruined Bishop's
Palace in which Haco of Norway died in 1263 and the Earl's
, ,

Palace, built about 1600 by Earl Patrick Stewart, the hall of which
is mentioned in the 'Pirate'. To the E. of the town are the remains
of a fort built by Cromwell, known as The Mount.
Excursions. Coaches (fare 2s. Gd., return 4s.) ply daily to (14 M.)
Stromness, affording an opportunity of visiting (9 M.) the Tumulut of
Maeshowe and (10'/2 M.) the Standing Stones of Stenness. The former (adm.
6<J.; guide's house to the left of the road), a chambered sepulchral mound,
36 ft. high and 300 ft. in circumference, was found in 1861 to contain
various rude carvings and Runic inscriptions. The 'Stones of Stenness
comprize two stone-circles in a bleak and striking situation on two pro-
montories in the Loch of Stenness, connected by a causeway known as
the Bridge of Brogar. 14 M. Stromness , see above. —
Other excursions
may be made to Wideford Hill (726 ft.; view), 2 M. to the W. of Kirk-
wall; to Deerness, the easternmost part of Mainland; to (20 M.) Birsay
(see above), its N.W. extremity, etc.
To Bueray, with a fine broch, a ferry (2s.) plies from St. Mary's, 6 M.
to the S. of Kirkwall. From the S. side of Burray another ferry (6(J.)
crosses to St. Margaret's Hope (Inn ; steamer, see p. 510) on South Bon-
aldshay. Hoxa (steamer, see p. 510) lies 3 M. to the W. —
To (4 M.)
Shapinshay, on which is Balfour Castle, with fine grounds, a mail-boat
plies daily. —
To Rousay, a local steamer (p. 510) thrice weekly. The
adjacent Eglishay is said to derive its name from Ecclesia, in honour of
the old ruined Church of St. Magnus, remarkable for its round tower.
To the Nokthebn Orkneys by the 'Orcadia', see p. 510. —
Steonsay and Sand ay both contain brochs, and Eday has numer-
ous antiquities. In Wbstbay is the ruined Castle of Noltland,
begun in 1422. The scenery of Noup Head (250 ft.), 3 M. from
512 Route 72. SCALLOWAY.
Pierowall , the chief village in Westray, is famous. North Ron-
aldshay is accessible only by boat from Sanday.

2. The Shetland Islands.

The weekly steamer from Stromness to Scalloway affords a good

view of the cliff-scenery on the W. side of the Orkneys but most ;

tourists will find the route from Kirkwall to (8-9 hrs.) Lerwick more
convenient. About halfway on the latter we pass the lonely Fair
Isle (214 inhab.), famous for its hand-knit hosiery, with patterns
said to have been introduced by the crew of a shipwrecked vessel
of the Spanish Armada.
Lerwick, i.e. 'Clay Bay' (Grand; Queen's; Royal), capital of
Shetland, a seaport with 4045 inhab., has a good pier and esplanade
and a fine town-hall (adm. 6d.). The Anderson Institute is a school.
At the N. end of the town is Fort Charlotte, originally built by
Cromwell. The island of Bressay landlocks the harbour.
Excursions. To the Noup of Noss (600ft.), either by boat (8-9 hrs.;
15-20«.) round Bressay or on foot (14 M. there and back), ferrying from
Lerwick to Bressay, and from Bressay to Noss. Permission to land on
Noss must be obtained from the factor on Bressay. The cliffs are best
seen from the sea. The tiny Holm of Noss is separated from the S. end
of Noss by a precipitous chasm only 60 ft. wide, formerly crossed by a
'cradle' working along two parallel ropes, now removed in consequence
of accidents. —
To Scalloway (see below) via Tingwall, returning via Gul-
berwick, 15 M. there and back. —
To Mousa and Fitful Head, 28 M. The
road runs to the S. from Gulberwick (see above) to (13 M.) Sandlodge,
where permission is obtained to ferry to the (2M.) island of Mousa, on
which is the finest "Broch or 'Piclish Tower' in Scotland. —
From Sand-
lodge the road continues to the S. to (25 M.) Sumborough Head (300 ft.), and
thence runs to the N.W. to (28 M.) "Fitful Head (928 ft.). There is a
lighthouse on each promontory.
Scalloway (Scalloway) with 648 inhab. , is picturesquely
,

situated at the head of Cliff Sound, 6 M. from Lerwick. The Castle,

built in 1600 by Earl Patrick Stewart, is in tolerable preservation.
The steamer route from Scalloway to Hillswiek (comp. p. 510) is one
of the finest excursions in the islands, with views of magnificent cliff-
scenery. To the W. as we leave Scalloway appears the distant island of
Foula (267 inhab.), a famous haunt of sea-fowl. To the right is the parish
of Walls, noted for its 'voes' (bays) and lochs. At Brae, where Mainland
narrows to an isthmus the ifavis Grind or Gulfs Bridge only 50 yds.
, ,

wide, it is sometimes possible to catch the Lerwick steamer in the Sullem

Voe. Hillswiek (lodgings) is near some of the best cliff-scenery in the islands.
Tothe Northbrn Shetlands by the 'Earl of Zetland', seep. 510.
The steamer on certain voyages visits the N.W. parts of Mainland.
— Whalsay is the first island touched at. Yell, a bleak island,
has numerous brochs and ruined chapels. Fetlar, to the N.E. is
fertile and picturesque. The nothernmost island is Unst at the ,

S.W. end of which is the ruined Muness Castle (1598). Balta

Sound on the E. coast, is an important fishing-station ; near it
,

are three stone-circles. About 2 M. to the N. is Haroldsivick, where

Harold Haarfagr landed in 872 to begin the conquest of the islands.
 INDEX.

Abbey Craig 486. Aintree 331. Annan 462.

Abbey Wood 33. Aira Force 890. — , the 461.
Abbotsbury 98. Aire, the 404. Annesley 431.
Abbotaford 457. Air Point 279. Anstey's Cove 132.
— Ferry 458. Alan, the 214. Anstiebury Camp 61.
Abbotsham 159. Albrighton 261. Anstruther 497.
Aber 285. Albury 62. 61. Anton, the 81.
Aberayron 208. 202. Alcester 188. 244. Antony House 142.
Aberbran 206. Aldborough 409. Apperley 404.
Abercorris 265. Aldeburgh 447. Appleby 405.
Aberdare 194. Alderley Edge 340. AppledoreCBideford) 160.
Aberdaron 293. Alderney 89. — (Rye) 43.
Aberdeen 504. iv. Aldershot 75. Appleford 219.
Aberdour 496. Allendale 419. Applethwaite 391.
Aberdovey 266. Allerton 345. Appuldurcombe 71.
Aberedw 203. Allington 35. Aran, the 298.
Aberfeldy 501. Alloway 481. Arans, the 302. 295.
Aberfoyle 486. AIH-Wen'285. 267. Arbor Low 872.
Abergavenny 191. Alne, the 417. Arbroath 497.
Abergeldie Castle 604. Alnmouth 417. Arbury Farm 254.
Abergele 280. Alnwick 417. Ardgour 492.
Aberglaslyn Pass 318. Alresford 76. Ardlamont Point 488.
Abergwessin 206. Alston 418. Ardlui 483.
Abergwili 207. Alstonefield 372. Ardrishaig 488.
Abergynolwyn 266. Altcar Flats 331. Ardrossan 481.
Abermule 264. Althorp 252. Ardudwy Pass 294.
Abertawe 197. Altnaharra 507. Arenig Station 303. 302.
Aberystwith 267. Alton 66. 75. 373. Areniga, the 303. 302.
Abingdon 216. Towers 373. Arisaig 492.
Abinger 62. Altrincham 277. Arlington 63.
— Hammer 61. Alum Bay 72. 74. Armboth 386.
Aboyne 501. Alverstone 72. Armitage 347.
Acharn Falls 501. Alverton 150. Arnside 376.
Ach-na-Cloich 490. Alves 495. Arran 481.
Achnasheen 494. Alveston 245. Arreton 73.
Acle 447. Alyth 499. Arrochar 481.
Acol 23. Ambergate 350. Arthington 421.
Acrefair 307. Ambleside 385. Arthog 297.
Acton 106. Amersham 249. Arthur's Seat 470.
— Bridge' 345. Amlwch 290. Stone 200.
— Burnell 263. Amesbury 101. Arun, the 53.
Addington 35. 36. 45. Ampthill 356. Arundel 63.
Addlestone 65. Andover 98. Arwenack House 146.
Adel 403. Andoversford 182. Ascot 106.
Adisbam 32. Andreas 344. Ascott-under-Wychwood
Adlestrop 187. Anerley 45. 187.
Ad'ur. the 52. Angel Road 431. Ash 64.
Afon Artro, the 294. Angle 213. Ashbourne 373.
— Cain, the 299. Anglesey, Island 26 Ashburnham House 42.
— Taf, the 202. (Gosport) 58. Ashburton 134.
— Wen 292. Angmering 53. Ashbury 135.
Ainsdale 331. Anker, the 349. Ashby 252.
Babdbkeb's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 33
 514 INDEX.
Ashby-de-la-Zouch 354. Ballacraine 342. Batley 340.
Ashchurch 182. Ballaglass 342. Battle 39.
Ashford (Kent) 13. 36. 43. Ballater 504. BattleBeld Church 263.
— (Derby) 367. Ballatrich 503. Battlesbury 113.
Ashiestiel 458. Ballaugh 342. Batty Moss 405.
Ashley (Me of Wight) 68. Ballinluig 502. Bayham Abbey 37.
— Combe 169. Balloch 483. 481. 482. Beachy Head 49. 44.
— Hill 121. Balmacara 493. Beaconsfleld 249.
Ashopton 360. Balmer Lawn 95. Beal 417.
Ashperton 190. Balmoral Castle 604. Bearley 244.
Ashton 130. Balta Sound 512. Bearsted 36.
Ashton-under-Lyne 339. Bamborough Castle 417. Beaton's Mill 485.
Ashwood Dale 271. Bampton 391. Beattock 461.
Aske Hall 410. Banavie 492. Beauchieff 402.
Askrigg 410. Banbury 240. Beaudesert Park 347.
Aston 259. Banchory 504. Beaulieu Abbey 84. 82.
Athelney 127. Banff 495. Beauly 506.
Atherstone 349. Bangor 286. —
Firth 493.
Atherton 333. Bank 84. Beaumaris 289.
Attleborough 441. Bannockburn 485. Beauport 94.
Auchencairn 463. Barber Booth 370. Bebington 323.
Auchengray 461. Barber's Bridge 190. Beccles 448.
Auchinleck 463. Barbrook Mill 163. Beckenham 17.
Auckland Castle 414. Barcombe 43. Becky Fall 130.
Audley End 431. Bardney 429. Bedale 410.
Aultbea 508. Bardon 354. Beddau-Gwyr-Ardudwy
Avebury Circle 108. — Hill 354. 352. 312
Aviemore 502. — Mill 418. Becto'r 138.
Avon, the (Dorset) 97. Bardsey Isle 293. Beddgelert 318.
— — (Lanark) 480.
, Barford 245. Bedd Taliesin 265. 266.
— — (Somerset) 113. 108. Barfreston Church
, 32. Bedford 355.
— — (Warwick) 245. Barkstone 361.
, Bedminster 122.
241. etc. Barle, the 168. 128. Bedruathan 144.
Avonmouth 121. Barleston 252. Bedworth 254.
Awe, Pass of 490. Barmouth 294. Beechen Cliff 112.
Awre 192. — Junction 296. 266. Beer Alston 138.
Axbridge 122. Barnard Castle 410. — Ferris 138.
Axe, the 127. Barnbougle 475. Beeston Castle 276.
Axe Edge 371. Barnetby 426. Begbrooke 238.
Axminster 102. Barn Gates Inn 386. Bekesbourne 32.
Aylesbury 217. Barnham 53. Belfast 482.
Aylesford 21. 34. Barnstaple 105. 160. Bell Busk 404.
Ayr 481. Barnt Green 188. — Rock 497.
Aysgarth 410. Barracane Bay 162. Belle Isle 380.
Ayton 459. 420. Barras Nose 155. Belper 350.
Barrhead 463. Belton House 361.
Babbacombe 132. Barrow-in-Furness 377. Belvedere 33.
Bablockhythe 239. on-Soar 352. Bel voir Castle 361.
Badgeworthy Glen 164. Barrule 342. Bembridge 69.
— Water 167. Barry 193. Bemerside 457.
Badminton 122. Barton 389. Bemerton 101.
Bagillt 279. on-Humber xxxvi. Ben Clench 485.
Bagley Woods 239. 217. Baschurch 268. Cruachan 482.
Bakewell 366. Base Brown 308. — Goleach 509.
Bala 302. Basildon Park 107. Lawers 501.
— Lake 302. Basing House 76. Ledi 484.
Balcombe 47. Basingstoke 76. 98. — Lomond 483.
Balerno 474. Basingwerk Abbey 279. More 501.
Balfour Castle 511. Baslow 368. — Muich-Dhui 503.
Balfron 486. Bassenthwaite 375. 400. — Nevis 492.
Ballabeg 343. Bass Rock 460. — Rhydding 403.
liallachulish 492. Bath 109. liii. Slioch 493.
Ballachurvy 344. Bathampton 109. 112, — Venue 484.
 inuinr. 515
Ben Volrlich 498. Bishopscourt 342. Bognor 53.
— Vrackie 502. Bishop's Lydeard 128. Bokerly Dyke 102.
— Wyvia 506. — Stortford 431. Boldrewood 83.
y-Gloe 601. Bishopstoke 59. 80. 82. Boleit 160.
BenQeet 450. Bishopston 199. 201. Bollin, the 277.
Benglog Falls 310. Bishop's Waltham 59. Bolsover Castle 402.
Benson Lock 219. Bishopthorpe 408. Bolton 333.
Bentley 444. Bisley Common 75. Abbey 404.
Beresford Dale 372. Bitterne 81. — Castle 410.
Berkeley 122. Bitton 113. Hall 404.
Berkbampstead 250. Blackburn 339. Bonar Bridge 507.
BerksweU 254. 259. Black Country, the 260. Bolton-le-Moors 339.
Bermondsey 32. 45. Black Crag 511. Boncath 202.
Berriedale 507. Black Down 122. Bonchurch 70.
Berriew 264. Blackdown Hills, the 129 Bonne Nuit Harbour 95.
Berry Head 132. Hill (Haslemere) 66. Bonsall 365.
— Narbor 163. Blackgang 71. Bont Newydd 302.
— Pomeroy Caatle 132. Black Head 146. Boot 377. 401.
134. Blackheath 33. Bootle 331.
Bervie 497. Black Isle 605. Bordeaux Harbour 89.
Berwick 43. 52. Blacklow Hill 243. Boredale 391.
upon-Tweed 417. 459. Blackmore Gate 163. Borrowdale 394.
Berwyn 304. Black Mountains 190. Borth 266.
— Hills 268. 303. Blackmouth Mill 159. Borthwick Castle 458.
Betchworth 59. Black Pill 198. Boroughbridge 409.
Bethesda 287. Blackpit 155. Boscastle 155.
Bettws-Garmon 317. Blackpool 373. Boscawen 151.
y-Coed 308. Black Sail Pass 398. Boscobel 261.
Bettyhill of Fair 510. Blackwater (Hants) 64. Boscombe 96.
Beulah Spa 46. —
(Isle of Wight) 72. Bosham 56.
Beverley 424. xlv. xlvi. Blaenau Ffestiniog 317, Bosherston Church 212.
1. liv. 303. Bosphrennis 152.
Bexhill 52. Blairadam 600. Bossiney Cove 155.
Bexley 33. Blair Athole 502. Bossington Beacon 164,
Bicester 217. Blairgowrie 502. 128. 169.
Bickleigh 143. 138. Blaisdon Hill 173. Boston 429. liii.
Bickley 18. Blaize Castle 121. Bothwell Brig 480.
Bidborough 13. 37. Blaven 491. — Castle 480.
Bideford 159. Bleadon-Uphill 127. Botley 59.
Biggar 461. Blea Tarn 382. Bottallack Mine 162.
Bignor 56. Bleawick 390. Boughrood 203.
Bigsweir 176. Blencathara 399. Bouley Bay 95.
Bilston 260. Blenheim Park 238. 187. Bourne 362.
Bilton 417. Blenkinsop Tower 418. the 96. 99.
— Hall 252. Bletchley 250. 217. — ,

End 221. 217.

Bindon Abbey 97. Bleu Bridge 149. Bournemouth 96.
Binatead Churcb 68. Blind Tarn 382. Bourneville 169.
Birchington 23. Blisworth 261. Bourton 122.
BirdingDury 253. Blorenge 191. Bovenay Lock 221.
Birdoawald 418. Blue Anchor
128. Bovey Tracey 130.
Birkenhead 323. 331. Blundellsands 331. Bow 135.
Birkett Tunnel 406. Blyth 417. Bowder Stone 394.
Birmingham 254. 244. 188. Blythburgh 448. Bowerdale 400.
Birnam Hill 600. 501. Blythe, the 254. Bowes 411.
Biraay 511. Boarhunt 59. Bowfell 386.
Biscay How
380. Boar's Hill 239. Bowling 482.
Bisham Abbey 221. Boat of Garten 495. Bowness 379.
Bishop Auckland 414. Bodelwyddan 280. Bowood 108.
Bishop and his Clerks, Bodiam Castle 38. 42. Bow Street 266.
the 216. Bodlondeb 285. Box 109.
Bishopdale 410. Bodmin 144. Boxgrove 56.
Bishop's Castle 181 Bodmin Road 144. Boxhill 59. 62.
— Cleeve 182. IBodyscallen 283. Boxley Abbey 36.
33*
 '

516 INDEX.
Boxnioor 250. Bridlington 420. Bull Point Lighthouse
Braan, the 501. — Quay 420. 162.
Bracklin Falls 484. Bridport 97. Bungay 444. 448.
Braddan 342. Brigg of Turk 484. Buntingford 431.
Bradford 404. Brighton 47. Bure, the 448. 449.
on-Avon 107. xxxv. Brimham Crags 422. Burford Bridge 52.
Ivi. Brimscombe 170. Burgh Castle 447.
Bradgate Park 353. Brislington 113. Burgess Hill 47.
Brading 69. xxxiii. Brisons 151. Burghead 495.
Bradley 260. Bristol 113. xliii. liii. Burghley House 361.
— House 129. Briton Ferry 196. Burhou 90.
Brae 512. Brixham 132. Burley 403.
Braemar 503. Brixton (I. of Wight) 71 Burnham 127.
Braich-y-Pwll 293. — (London) 16. Burnmoor 401.
Braid Hills 474. Brixworth 252. xxxv. Burnmouth 459.
Braintree 431. Broad Clyst 103. Burnmoor Tarn 387.
Braithwaite 375. 396. Broadford 491. Burns' Land 481.
Bran, the 205. 206. Broadlands 83. Burnswark 461.
Brancepeth 414. Broads, the 449. Burnthwaite Farm 401.
Brander Pass 490. Broadstairs 23. Buron 90.
Brandon (Norfolk) 441. Broads tone 97. Burntisland 496.
— (Warwick) 253. Broadwater 53. Burray 511.
Brandreth 400. Wood38. Burry, the 201.
Branksome Tower 456. Broadway 187. Burscough 331.
Bransford Road 189. Brockenhurst 95. Burslem 346.
Brant Fell 380. Brocket Hall 364. Burton 188. 354.
Brantwood 381. Brockley 45. — Dasset Hills 240.
Brathay, the 380. 383. Brodick 481. Bury Hill 98.
Braunton 161. Brogar, Bridge of 511. Bury St. Edmund's 450.
Bray 221. Bromborough 323. 442. xl.
— , the 128. Bromley 17. Buryas Bridge 150.
Braye 89. Bromsgrove 188. Bushey 249.
Brean Down 127. Brooke 71. Bute 488.
Brechin 499. Brookwood 75. Butterby 414.
Brecknock 204. Broom 188. Buttermere 395.
Brecon 204. 205. 192. Brora 507. — Hause 396.
— Beacons 204. Water 389.
Brothers' Buttington 263. i

Brecqhou 91. Brougham Hall 374. Buxton 370.

Brede 42. Broughton 382. Bwlch 205.
Bredenstoke Abbey 108. Broughty Ferry 497. — Drws Ardudwy 294.
Bredon 183. Brown Willy 153. 136. y-Felin 317.
Breidden Hills, the 264. Broxbourne 431. — -y-Groes 302.
Brendon, the 164. Broxburn, the 459. y-Maen 319.
— Hills, the 128. Bruar Falls, the 502. -y-Maes-Cwm 315.
— Water 167. Brundall 446. -y-Tyddiad 294.
Brent 134. Bryngwyn 317. Bwrdd Arthur 290.
Brentford 106. Brynkinalt 268. Byland Abbey 409.
Brent Knoll 127. Bryntysilio 304. Bynack Lodge 502.
— Tor 136. Buchlyvie 486.
Brentwood 442. Buckfastleigh 134. Caburn Mt. 43. 52.
Bressay 512. Buckden 410. Cadbury Camp 122.
Breydon Water 449. Buckie 495. Cader Fronwen 303.
Brick Fell 390. Buckingham 217. — Idris 265. 301.
Bridestowe 135. Buckland 134. Cadgwith 148. 146.
Bridge Ball 168. — Abbey136. Cadnam 83.
Bridgend 196. Bucklay 269. Cadzow 480.
— (Islay) 488. Bucks Mill 159. Caerhun 307.
Bridgenorth 261. Buckstone, the 175. Caerlaverock Castle 463.
Bridge-of-Allan 484. Bude 156. 135. 136. Caerleon 191.
— of-Dun
499. Budleigh Salterton 105. Caerphilly Castle 194.
Bridges 144. Bugle 144. Caersws 264.
Bridgewater Canal 332. Builth 203. Caerwent 177.
Bridgwater 127. Road 206. Cairngorm 503.
 :

INDEX. 517
Caistor Castle 449. 444. Cambridge Carmarthen Junction
— St. Edmund 446. St. Benet's Church 435, 201.
Calbourne 73. — Van 206. 204.
Caldew, the 375. — Botoiph's Ch. 434. Carnarvon 291.
Caldicot Castle 177. — Catharine's Coll. 434. — Mts. 307.
Caldy 210. — Clement's Ch. 438. Cam Bran 151.
Caledonian Canal 492. — Giles' Church 438. Carnbrea Hill 146.
Calgarth 383. — John's College 437. Carnedd Dafydd 288.
Callander 484. — Mary's the Great — Llewelyn 288. 286. 307.
Callington 137. Church 436. Carnforth 374.
Calne 108. Less Ch. 434. Carno, the 265.
Calstock 142. — Michael's Ch. 436. Carnoustie 497.
Calver 368. — Paul's Church 433. Carnwath 461/
Calverley 404. — Peter's Church 438. Carrog 304.
Cam, the 432. 436. College 433. Carse of Gowrie 499.
Camasunary 491. — Sepulchre's 437. Carstairs 461.
Camborne 146. Schools Quadrangle435. Cart, the 481.
Cambridge 432. 354. xli. Science Schools 435. Cartland Crags 481.
lii. lvi. Selwyn College 434. Cartmel 377.
Addenbrooke's Hos- Senate House 435. Casquets 86.
pital 433. Sidney Sussex Coll. 438. Castell Coch 194.
All Saints' Church 438. Trinity College 436. —
Carreg Cennan 207.
Backs, the 332. — Hall 436. —
Lleiniog 290.
Barnwell Abbey 438. Trumpington St. 433. Castle Bromwich 259. 188.
Boata 432. Union 438. — Campbell 485.
Botanic Gardens 439. University Boathouses — Douglas 463.
Castle Mound 438. .438. — Dinas 153.
Cavendish College 439. — Cricket Ground 433, — Head 393.
Christ's College 438. — Library 435. — Hedingham 442.
Clare College 436. — Observatory 438. — Howard 419.
Corpus ChristiColl.434. Cambuskenneth 485. — Kennedy 464.
County Court 438. Cambuslang 476. — Malwood 83.
Divinity and Literary Camel, the 153. — Rigg 384.
Schools 437. Camelford 153. 136. — Rising 442.
Downing College 439. Camelot 153. Castleton(Derby)369. 360.
Emmanuel College 439. Camlan, the 299. — (Portland) 97.
Fitzwilliam Museum Campbeltown 488. Castletown (Man) 343.
433. Camp den 187. Caswell Bay 199. 198.
Geological Museum436. Cannock Chase 347. Cat Bells 400.
Girton College 439. Canobie 456. Caterham 46.
Gonville and Caius Canterbury 23. 25. xxxiv. Catwater, the 142.
College 436. xli. xlii. xliii. lii. Caudale Moor 389.
Hobson's Conduit 433. —
, South 32. Cauldron, the 213.
Holy Trinity Ch. 438. Canty Bay 460. Caversham Lock 220.
Jesus College 438. Capel Curig 316. Cawdor Castle 495.
King's College 435. liii. —
Gannon 308. Cawsand 135. 142.
— Parade 435. Capstone Hill 161. Cefn 268.
Laboratories 439. Carbis Bay 148. Bryn 201. —
Lensfield Road
433. Carclew 145. — Caves 280.
Magdalene College 438. Cardiff 192. Ceiriog, the 268.
Market St. 438. Cardigan 202. Cemmes Road 265.
New Museums 439. Cardington 356. Ceunant Maur 315.
Newnham College 434. Cardrona 458. Chacewater 146.
Pembroke College 434. Carew Castle 210. Chaddesden 351.
Pepysian Building 438. Car House 370. Chadfleld 112.
Peterhouse 433. Carisbrooke 72. 73. Chagford 138. 130.
Pitt Press 434. Cark 377. Chale 71.
Pythagoras School 435. Carlingwark Loch 463. Chalfont St. Giles 249.
Queens' College 434. Carlisle 375. 455. 405. Chalk Water 168.
lvi. xlvii. Challich 509.
Ridley Hall 434. Carl Side 399. Challow 107.
Round Church 437. Carluke 461. Chambercombe 163.
St. Andrew's Ch. 438. Carmarthen 207. Chanitonbury Ring 53.
518 INDEX.
Channel Islands 84. Chirk 268. Clynnog 292.
Chantry Downs 64. — Castle 306. Coalbrookdale 261.
Chapel-en-le-Frith 350. Chiselhurst 12. Coaley 122.
370. Chobham Ridges 76. Coalville 354.
Chapel Stile 386. Chollerford 418. Cobbinshaw 461.
Chapman Barrows 168. Chorley Wood 249. Cobham 21.
Chard 102. 128. Christchurch 96. liii. — Hall 21. 34.
Charfield 122. Christon Bank 417. Cockburnspath 459.
Charing 36. Chudleigh 130. Cockenzie 460.
Charlbury 187. Chudleigh's Fort 159. Cockermouth 375. 396.
Charlcombe 112. Churchdown 181. Cockington 132.
Charlecote 247. 245. Church Stretton 181. Cockpen 459.
Charlton (Devon) 133. Churn, the 169. Cockshot Mill 421.
— (near London) 33. Churston 132. Codale Tarn 386.
on-Otmoor 239. Churt 66. Codnor Castle 402.
— Kings 182. Chysawster 152. Codsall 261.
Charmouth 102. Cilmery 206. Coilantogle Ford 484.
Charnwood Forest 352. Cinque Ports 41. 42. Coity Castle 196.
Chartham 13. Cirencester 169. Colbren 205.
Chartley 346. Cisbury Hill 53. Colby 343.
Chase Wood
102. Clack Abbey 108. Colchester 443. xxxiv.
Ohatelherault 480. Clacton-on-Sea 443. Coldharbour 61.
Chatham 21. Cladich 482. Coldingham 459.
Chat Moss 332. Claife Heights 380. Coldstream 456.
Chatsworth 367. 361. Clandon Park 64. Coldwell Rocks 175.
Cheadle 358. Clapham (London) 16. 64. Cole 113.
— Hulme340. — (Bedfordshire) 362. Coleshill House 108.
Cheddar 122. — (York) 405. Colin ton 474.
Cheddington 250. Clappersgate 385. Colintraive 488.
Chedworth 182. Claremont 64. Collumpton 129.
Cheedale 372. Claverdon 244. Colne, the 340. 442. 249.
Chelmsford 442. Claverton 112. Colney Hatch 364.
Chelsfleld 12. Cleddau, the 202. Colwall 190.
Chelt, the 181. Cleethorpes 426. Colwich 347.
Cheltenham 181. Cleeve 182. Colwith 386.
Chenies 249. Abbey 128. Colwyn, the 318.
Chepstow 177. 192. Clent Hills 259. — Bay 281.
Cheriton Church 212. Clevedon 122. Colyton 102.
xliii. Clevedon Court 122. lv. Combe Abbey 254.
Cherry Hinton 439. Clieveden 221. — Martin 162. 163.
Chertsey 222. 65. Cliff Sound512. — Valley 156.
Cherwell, the 218. 239. Clifford Castle 203. Combermere Abbey 26S.
Chesham 249. Clifton (Bristol 119. Compass Point 156.
Cheshunt 431. — (Westmorland) 374. Compton 63.
Chesil Bank 97. — Bridge 121. Castle 132.
Chesilton 97. — Down 120. Comrie 498.
Chess 248. — Hampden 219. Conegar Hill 128.
Chester 269. 267. Clitheroe 339. 404. Congresbury 122.
Chesterfield 402. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Conisborough Castle 405.
Chester-le-Street 414. 322. Conishead Priory 377.
Chesterton 241. Cloutsham 164. Coniston 381. 378.
Ohevening 12. Clovelly 157. — Lake 381.
Chichester 53. — Cross 157. Connah's Quay 278.
Chiddingstone 13. Clovenfords 458. Conon 506.
Childwall Hall 331. Cluden, the 463. Conway 284.
Chilham 13. Clumber Park 361. — , the 281. 284. 307. etc.
Chillingham 417. Clunes 505. — Mt. 285.
Chiltern Green 357. Clunie 493. Cookham 221. 217.
— Hills 250. 217. Clwyd Hills 278. 279. Cooksbridge 43.
Chilworth 62. Vale279. 278. Cook's Folly 120.
Chinley Churn 350. Clyde, the 461. 477. 480. Cooling 20.
Chippenham 108. Coombe Maiden 64.
Chipping Norton 187. Clydesdale 461. Coome Crags 418.
 INDEX. 519
Cooper's Hill 222. Crewkerne 102. Cynghordy 206.
Copplestone 105. Crianlarich 491. Cynicht 319.
Coquet, the 417. Crib-y-Ddysgil 309. 319. Cynwyd 304.
Cora Linn 480. 481. Goch 309.
Corbiere, the 88. Criccieth 293. Dakham 364.
Corbridge 419. Crich Stand 366. Dalbeattie 463.
Corby Hall 418. Crichton Castle 458. Dalemain Hall 389.
Corehouae 480. Crickhope Linn 463. Dalegarth Force 401.
Corfe Castle 97. Crickhowell 191. Dalhousie Castle 459.
Cornwall 143. Crieff 498. Dalkeith 459. 475.
— , Cape 151. Criffel 463. Dalmally 491. 482.
Cornwood 134. Crinan 488. Dalmeny 475.
Corpach 492. — Canal 488. Dalmuir 482.
Corran Narrows 492. Croft Spa 410. Dalquharn 483.
Corrie 481. Crohamhurst 46. Dairy 464.
Corriemulzie Falls 503. Cromarty 505. Dalton 410.
Corns 265. Cromer 447. Damhead 500.
Corsham 108. Cromford 365. 350. Darent, the 18. 34.
Corstorphine 474. Crosby 331. Darley 350.
Cors-y-Gedol 296. Crossford 480. Darley Dale 360.
Corwen 303. 280. Crossgates 500. Darlington 410.
Coryton 135. Crossness 33. Darnick 457.
Cotehele 142. Crowcombe Heathfield Darsham 447.
Cotswold Hills 169. 128. Dart, the 132. 133.
Cottingham 425. Crowhurst 42. Dartford 33.
Coupar Angus 499. Crowland Abbey 363. Dartington 134.
Countisbury 68. 164. Crows-an-Wra 151. Dartmoor Forest 137. 105.
County Gate 164. Croxteth Hall 331. Dartmouth 132.
Coventry 253. 241. li Croydon 45. Datchet 222.
liii. It. Cmmmock Water 395. Dauntsey 108.
— Canal 254. Crummych Arms 202. Daventry 251.
Coverack 146. Cuchullin Hills 491. Dawlish 129.
Coverhithe 448. Cuck field 47. Daylesford House 187.
Cowbridge 196. Cuddesden 239. Day's Lock 219.
Cowdenbeath 600. Cudworth 402. Deal 25.
Cowdray 67. lvi. Culbone 169. Dean Forest 177. 170. 122.
Cowes 74. Culham 216. Deanshanger 251.
Cowgarth 391. Culham Lock 219. Debatable Ground 461.
Cowlairs 476. Culloden Moor 494. Dee, the (Aberdeen) 503.
Coxwold 409. Culm, the 129. 504. 505.
Cradoc 205. Culver Hole 200. -, the (Kirkcud.) 463.

Craig Dwrg 294. Cumbrae Isles 481. — , the (Wales) 304. 268.
Craigendarroch 604. Cumnock 463. 277. etc.
Craigenputtock 463. Cumnor 239. Deepdale 389.
Craigmillar 474. Cupar 496. Deepdene 60.
Craignethan 480. Currie 474. Deerhurst 183.
Craig-y-Nos 205. Hill 461. Deerness 511.
Crail 497. Cut Hill 138. Defford 183.
Cranbrook 13. Cuxton 34. Deganwy 284.
Cranborne Chase 102. Cwm Bychan 294. Delabole 154.
Cranmere Pool 138. Dwr 205. Delapr(5 Abbey 252.
Crathie Church 604. Dyli 321. Denbies 60.
Craven Arms 180. 206. — Elan 203. Denbigh 280. 277.
— District 404. — Glas 316. Dent Dale 406.
Cray, the 18. 22. — Llewelyn 203. 206. Derby 350. 373. 189.
Crayford 33. — Penamnaen 311. - Haven 343.
Crediton 105. — Proesor 304. Derbyshire Peak 364.
— Creigneesh 343. -y-Glo 314. Dereham 441. 447.
Crellas 152. Cyfarthfa Castle 194. Derry Ormond 208.
Cremill 142. Cym Cynfael 312. Dersingham 442.
Creux Mahie, the 88. Cymmer Abbey 299. Derwen 280.
— du Derrible 91. Cynfael, the 304. 311.
—
Derwent, the 350. 366.
Crewe 346. 340. Falls, the 311. I 397. 419. etc.
520 INDEX.

Derwentwater 393. Downing Hall 279. Dunton Green 12.

Devil's Bridge 267. Dozmare Pool 144. Dunwich 447.
— Dyke 51. Dragon's Hill 108. Durdham Down 121.
— Jumps 66. Drayton 354. 53. Durham 411. xxxviii.
Devizes 107. — Bassett 188. xxxix. xlv. liv.
Devoke Water 382. — Beauchamp 250. Durness 5(19.
Devon 128. Drem 459. Dursley 122.
Devonport 139. 141. Driffield 425. Durston 127.
Devynock 205. Drigg 401. 377. Duty Point 165.
Dewsbury 340. Droitwich 187. Dwfrdwy, the 302.
Dhoon Glens 342. Dromore 464. Dwygyfylchi 285.
Didcot 216. 107. Dropmore 221. Dwyryd, the 314. 311.
Dilston Castle 419. Drumbeg 509. Dyce 495.
Dinas 292. Drumburgh 376. Dyffryn 294.
— Bran 304. Drumlanrig Castle 463. Dymock 190.
— Mawddwy 265. Drws-y-Nant 302. Dynevor Castle 207.
Ding Dong Mine 152. Dryburgh Abbey 45S. Dysart 496.
Dingwall 506. Duart 489. Dyserth 279.
Dinham Hill 105. Dubtnn 499.
Dinmore Hill 180. Duddon, the 382. 377. Eaglescliffe 410.
Dinorwic 315. Dudley 260. Ealing 106.
Dinting 359. Dufiield 350. Eamont, the 389.
Dinton 101. Duffryn Castell 265. Eardisley 203.
Diphwys 295. Duffws 11. 313. Earl's Barton 252. xxxvi.
Dirleton 460. Dulverton 128. Earlestown 332.
Ditchling Beacon 47. Dulwich 17. Earley 64.
Dittisham 132. Dumbarton 482. Earlswood 46.
Ditton 345. Dumfries 462. 461. Easby Abbey 410.
Dochart, the 501. Dunball 127. Easdale Tarn 387. 386.
Dockray 391. 397. Dunbar 459. Eastbourne 43. 52.
Dolaucothie 206. Dunbeath 507. East Cowes 75.
Doldowlod 203. Dunblane 484. — Farleigh 36.
Dolgarrog 307. Duncannon 133. — Grinstead 46. 47. 43.
Dolgelley 297. 265. etc. Duncansby Head 508. Eastham 339.
Dollar 485. Dunchurch 253. Eastham Ferry 323.
Dolserau 302. Duncombe 409. East Hartlepool 410.
Dolwyddelan 310. 309. Dundee 497. —
Linton 459.
Don, the 359. 405. etc. Dundonnell 509. Eastnor Park 190.
Doncaster 405. Dundrennan Abbey 464, Eastwell 13.
Donihristle 496. Dundry 121. 122. Eaton Bridge 276.
Doon, the 481. Dunfermline 500. xxxviii. —
Hall 276.;
Doone Valley 167. Dunford Bridge 359. Ebbsfleet 24.
Dorchester (Dorset) 97. Dungeness 43. Ecclefechan 461.
— (near Oxford) 219. Dungeon Force 386. Eccles 332.
Dorking 60. — Gill 383. Ecclesbourne Glen 42.
Dornoch 506. Dunion Hill 456. Eccleston Ferry 276.
Dorsetshire 97. Duniquoich 482. Eckington 183.
Dorstone 190. Dunkeld 500. Ecton 355.
Doublebois 144. Dunk ery Beacon 164. Edale 370.
Douglas 342. Dunmail Raise Pass 384. Eday 511.
Doune 484. Dunmallet Hill 389. Eddystone Lighth. 139.
Dour, the 15. Dunmow 431. Eden, the 299. 375. 405.
Dousland 136. Dunnet Head 508. Edenbridge 13. 37.
Dove, the 372. 188. Dunnottar Castle 498. Eden Hall 374.
Dovedale 372. Dunoon 482. 487. Edensor 367.
Dove Holes 372. Dunraven Castle 196. Edgcumbe, Mt. 142.
— Nest 380. Dunrobin Castle 507. Edgehill 240. 345.
Dover 14. 32. xxxiii. Duns 456. Edinburgh 464. liv.
xxxiv. xxxv. Dunsinane 499. Advocates Library 469.
I'overcourt 444. Dunstable 250. 357. Antiquarian Museum
Dovey,the265.266.302.etc Dunstaffnage Castle 489. 467.
Dow Crag 382. Dunstanburgh Castle 417. Arboretum 473.
Dowlais 194. Dunster 128. Arthur's Seat 470.
 :

INDEX. 521

Edinburgh: Edinburgh Eltham 33. 34.

Assembly Hall 468. Old Town 466. Elvanfoot 461.
Bank of Scotland 468. Parliament House 469. Elvetham House 76.
Blackford Hill 474. Post Office 470. Elwy, the 280.
Botanic Garden 473. Princes Street 467. Ely (Cambridge) 440. xlii.
Burns's Monument 471. Queen's Drive 470. xlv. xlvi. xlvii. xlviii.
Calton Hill 471. Queensferry Road 472. xlix. Hi. liv.
Canongate 470. Queen's Park 470. (Wales) 195.
Castle 467. Queen Street 467. , the 196.
Castle Street 473. Register House 470. Emsworth 66.
Charlotte Square 473. Royal Institution 467. Ennerdale 395. 398.
City Cross 469. St. Andrew's Ch. 473. — Water 395.
Commercial Bank 473 •
Square 473. Enville 261.
Corstorphine Hill 474 — Anthony's Chap. 470. Epping Forest 431.
Cowgate 471. — Cuthbert's Ch. 472. Epsom 62. 64.
Craigmillar Castle 474. — George's Church 473. Erddig Hall 269.
Dean Bridge 472. — Giles's Church 468. Erdington 259.
— Cemetery 472. — John's Church 472. Erewash, the 401.
Donaldson's Hospital — Margaret's Loch 471. Eridge 38.
473. — Mary's Cathedral 472. Erith 33.
Duddingston Loch 470. Salisbury Crags 470. Erme, the 134.
Dumbiedykes 470. Scott Monument 467. Escombe Church 414.
Dunsappie Loch 470. Sheriff Court 468. xxxv.
East Princes Street South Bridge 471. Esher 64.
Gardens 467. Statue Gallery 467. Esk, the (Dumfries) 465.
Excursions 474. Stewart's Hospital 472. 461.
Fettes College 472. Tolbooth 469. (Yorkshire) 421.
Free Church Coll. 467. TrinityChurch 472. — the North 499.
—
,

Free Library 468. House 474. — , the South 497.

George Square 472. Tron Church 469. Eskbank 459.
— Street 413. 467. Union Bank 473. Esk Hause 398.
Gillespie's Hospital University 471. Essendine 361.
471. Warriston Cem. 473. Esthwaite Water 380.
Grange Cemetery 473 Water of Leith 472. Etchingham 39.
Grassmarket 473. Watt Institute 471. Etherow, the 359.
Greyfriars' Church 472. Waverley Market 470. Eton 221.
Hawthornden 474. West Princes Street Ettrick Forest 458.
Heart of Midlothian 469 Gardens 472. Evany 461.
Heriot's Hospital 471. Edington 113. Evenlode, the 187.
High School 471. Ednam 456. Evercreech 112. 127.
Holyrood Palace 470. Edw, the 203. Everley 420.
Infirmary 471. Edzell 499. Eversley 76.
John Knox's House 469. Efford Beacon 156. Evesham 187. 182.
Law Courts 470. Eglishay 611. Ewe Island 503.
Leith 473. Eglwyseg Rocks 306. Ewenny Priory 196.
Martyrs' Monument Eglwys Fach 265. Ewell 32.
471. 267.— Newydd Ewloe Castle 276.
Meadows 472. Rhos 283. — Exe, the 84. 105. 164. etc.
Medical School 471. Eildon Hills, the 456. Exe Head Hill 168.
Merchiston 473. Elderslie 487. Exeter 103. xliv. xlviii. lv,
Moray House 470. Elgin 496. Exford 164. 168.
Mound 467. Elham Valley 32. Exminster 129.
Museum of Science Elidyr Fawr 315. Exmoor Forest 164. 128.
& Art 471. Elie 497. Exmouth 105.
Music Hall 473. Eliseg's Pillar 305. Eyam 368.
National Gallery 467. Ellen's Isle 484. Eye, the 459.
— Portrait Gall. 473. Elleray 379. Eye Green 363.
Nelson Monument 471. Ellesmere 268. Eyemouth 459.
Newington 470 Canal 304. —
New Town Ellisland 463. Fairfield Mt. 388. 385.
North Bridge 471. Elstow 856. . Fairford 187. lii.

Old Calton Burying Elswick 416. Fair Isle 512.

Ground 470. lElterwater 386 Fairlight Glen 42.
522 INDEX.
Fairy Cross 159. Flamljorough Head 420. Frome 121.
Fniry Glen 309. Flax Bourton 122. — the 11. 97.
Fakenham 447. Flaxley Abbey 173. Frongoch 303.
Fal, the 145. Fleet 76. Frwdgrech Falls 204.
Falkirk 475. Fleetwood 373. Furnace 265.
Falkland 496. Fletching 47. Furness Abbey 377.
Falmer 52. Flicquet Bay 93. Fusedale 391.
Falmouth 145. Flint 278. Fushiebridge 458.
Fareham 59. Flintshire 278.
Faringdon 107. Flodden 456. Gad's Hill 20. 34.
Farington 373. Floors Castle 456. Gaerwen 290.
Farley Castle 112. Floriston 461. Gainsborough 426.
Farnborough 76. Floutern Tarn 395. Gairloch 494.
Fame Isles 417. Flushing 146. Galashiels 458.
Farnham (Surrey) 66. 75 Foel Llys 285. Gala Water, the 458.
— (Wilts) 102. Foinaven 509. Gallantry Bower 158.
Farningham 18. Folkestone 14. 16. Galloway 463.
Farningham Road 18. Fonthill Abbey102. Gallt-y-Bladur 266. 265.
Farnley Hall 403. Ford (Argyll) 488. 482. Foel 308.
Farnworth 332. (Devon) 139. 159. Ganllwyd Glen 297. 299.
Farringford 73. (Sussex) 53. 46. Garawalt Falls 503.
Far Sawrey 380. Abbey 102. Garbourn Pass 391.
Fast Castle 459. Ford House 129. Gareloch Head 481.
Faversham 22. — of Tarff 502. Gargunnock 486.
Fawkham 18. Fordoun 498. Garlinge 23.
Fawley 177. Forest Hill 45. Garrick's Villa 222.
Fearn 506. Lodge 502. Garry Bridge 502.
Featherstonehaugh 418. Forfar 499. Garston 332. 345.
Felbrigg Hall 447. Forge Valley 420. Garth 206.
Felixstowe 444. Formby 331. Gartness 486.
Fell Foot 382. Forrabury 155. Garve 506.
Fender Falls 502. Forres 495. Gatcombe Park 72.
Fen District 362. 440. Forse 507. Gatehouse of Fleet 464.
Fenny Compton 240. Forsinard 507. Gatesgarth 398.
— Stratford 352. Fort Augustus 493. Gateshead 415.
Fermain Bay 88. — William 492. Gatton 59. 46.
Fernhill Heath 187. Forter Castle 499. Gaunt House 239.
Fernieherst Castle 456. Forth, the 484. 475. etc. Gavenny, the 191.
Ferryside 201. Bridge, the 475. 495. George Town 93.
Fetlar 512. — & Clyde Canal 482. Georgeham 163.
Ffestiniog 311. 304. Fortrose 505. Georgemas 507.
Field Place 47. Fotheringay 252. Gilling 409.
Filey 420. Fountains Abbey 424. Gillingham 22. 102.
Filton 121. Foula 512. Gilsland Spa 418.
Finchale Priory 414. Four Ashes 261. Giltar Point 210.
Findhorn Glen 495. Fowey 145. Gipsy Hill 45.
Fingal's Cave 489. Foxfield 377. Girvan 481.
Firle Beacon 43. 52. Fox Hills 76. Glamis 499.
Firth of Forth 466. Howe 383. Glamorganshire 192.
Lorn 489. Foyers, Fall of 493. Glan Conway 307.
Tay 499. 497. Framlingham 447. Glandovey 265.
Fishhourne 68. Frant 37. Glaramara 398.
Fishergill 400. Fraserburgh 495. Glasbury 203.
Fisherrow 460. Fratton Junction 56. Glasgow 476.
Fisherwick 349. Fremington 160. Anniesland Toll 480.
Fishguard 216. Frensham Great Pond 66. Argyle Street 479.
Fishhouse 68. Freshford 112. Bank of Scotland 478.
Fish Ponds 121. Freshwater 72. 73. Barony Church 478.
Fitful Head 512. Friar's Crag 393. Bears den 480.
Fitzford 137. Friday Street 61. Botanic Gardens 479.
Five Lanes 136. Fridd-Du 285. Broomielaw 478.
— Oaks 94. Frocester 122. lvi. Buchanan St. 479.
Fladbury 187. Frodsham 277. Canniesburn 480.
 :

INDEX. 523
Glasgow Glenlyn 166. Grantown 495. 502.
Cathcart Castle 479, Glen Ogle 492. Grant's House 459.
Cathedral 478. Glenorchy 491. Grasmere 387. 384.
Corporation Galleries Glenridding 392. Grately 98.
479. Glen Rosa 482. Gravesend 34.
Cross 479. — Roy 492. Great Berkhampstead
Docks 477. — Sannox 482. 250.
Excursions 480. Glenshee 502. 503. — Brington 252.
George Square 478. Glen Shiel 493. — Chesterford 431.
Glasgow Bridge 478. — Sligachan 491. Doward 175.
— Green 478. — Strathfarrar 506. — Durnford 101.
Great Western Road Glenthorne 168. 164. — End 398. 401.
480. Glen Tilt 502. Gable 400.
Harbour 477. Gloddaeth House 283. Grimsby 426.
High Street 478. Glomach Falls 506. Haldon, the 121.
Hunteri an Museum 479. Glossop 359. Hangman 163.
Hyndland 476. Gloucester 170. xxxvii, — How, the 384.
Industries 477. xlix. 1. lii. liv. — Langdale 386. 383.
Kelvin 479. Glutton Dale 372. — Links Tor 135.
Kibble Palace 479. Glynde 43. 52. — Malvern 189.
Langside 479. Glvndyfrdwy 304. Marlow 221. 317.
Maryhill 480. Glyn Neath 197. Orme's Head 282.
Mitchell Library 479. Goatfell 482. Rocks Dale 350.
Merchants' House 478. Goats Water 382. Greeba 342.
Mount Florida 480. Gobowen 268. 264 Greenaley 169.
Municipal Buildings Godalming 65. Point 128.
478. Godley 358. Greenfield 339.
Necropolis 478. Godshill 72. Green Gable 398.
Post Office 476. 483. Godstone 13. Greenhithe 34.
Queen's Park 479. Godstow Nunnery 239. Greenlands 220.
Royal Exchange 479. Gogar 475. Green Lane 331.
— Infirmary 478. Gogarth Abbey 283. Greenloaning 498.
Saltmarket 479. Gogmagog
Hills 431. Greenock 487.
Sauchiehall Street 479. Golden Grove 207. Greenodd 381.
Shipbuilding 477. Goldrill Beck 389. Greenup Edge 388.
Statues 479. Golspie 507. Greenway House 133.
Tron Church 479. Gomshall u2. Gresford 269.
Trongate 479. Goodrich 171. Greta, the 392. 375.
Union Street 479. Goodwic 216. Gretna Green 455. 462.
University 479. Goodwin Sands 24. — Junction 461.
Victoria Infirmary 479. Goodwood 66. Greve au Lancon 94.
Waterworks 477. Gordale Scar 404. — de Lecq 84.
West End Park 479. Gorebridge 458. Grey Knotts 400.
Western Infirmary 479. Gorey 93. —
Mare's Tail 458. 461.
Glaslyn,the318.319.321. Goring (Sussex) 53. Greystoke 397.
Glasney Abbey 145. —
(on Thames) 219. 107. Griff 254.
Glas-Pwll 266. Gorleston 447. Grimspound 138.
Glastonbury 126. 127. Gorphwysfa 316. Grindleford Bridge 369.
xxxiv. xxxix. xlii. Gosforth 400. Grisedale Pass 388.
xliii. lvi. Gosport 5S. Grongar Hill 207.
Glazebrook 349. Gourock 487. Groombridge 43. 38.
Glazebury 332. Go van 487. Grosmont Castle 176.
Glen Affric 606. Gowbarrow 397. Grosnez Cape 94.
— Callater 503. Gower Peninsula 198. Grouville 93.
— Cannich 506. Gowerton 201. 207. Grove Ferry 32.
— Clunie 503. Goyt, the 349. — Park 12.
Glencoe 492. Grabhurst Hill 128. Growar 155.
Glencoin 397. Grampound Road 145. Gruinard 508.
Glencroe 482. Grange 376. 394. Guernsey 87.
Glenfarg 500. — Court 173. 192. Guildford 62.
Glenisla 499. Grantchester 439. Guilsfield 264.
Glen Loth 507. Grantham 361. Gulberwick 512.
Glenluce 464. Granton 474. Gulwal 149.
524 INDEX.

Gumfreston 210. Harrietsham 36. Hendon 358.

Glimmer's How 380. Harrogate 422. 409. Hengisthury Head 96.
Gunnislake 137. Harrow 250. Hengoed 194.
Gunton 447. Harrow-on-the-Hill 249. Hengrave Hall 450.
Gunwalloe 147. Hart Crag 392. Henley 220.
Gurt Down 163. Hartford 345. 277. Hennacliff 156.
Guthrie 499. Hartington 372. Hensbarrow 145.
Guy's Cliff 243. 241. Hartland 156. 159. Henwick 189.
Gweek 146. Hartlepool 410. Hereford 178. 190. xlvii.
Gwennap 146. Harwich 443. xlviii. Uv. lv.
Gwili, the 201. Haslemere 65. Herefordshire 169.
Gwinear Road 146. Hassendean 456. Beacon 190.
Gwithiam 148. Hassocks 47. llerm 89.
Gwrfai, the 317. Hastings 40. 52. Heme Bay 23.
Gwrych 281. Hatfield 357. 363. — Hill 16.
Gwydir Castle 307. Hathersage 369. Heron Court 96.
Hatton 244. Hertford 364.
Hackfall Woods 410. 424. Haughley Road 450. Hest Bank 874.
Hnckness 420. Haughmond Abbey 263. Hever 13. 37.
Haddington 460. Hauteville House 87. Heytesbury 113.
Haddon Hall 366. Havant 56. 66. Hexham 418.
Hadleigh 444. Haven Street 68. Higham 34.
Hadnall 268. Haverfordwest 202. — Ferrers 252.
Hafod 267. Haverhill 442. Highbridge 127.
Hagley 261. Havre Gosselin 91. High Crag 398.
Hailsham 52. Hawarden 276. — Cross 381.
Halbeath 500. Hawes 405. 410. Highdown Hill 53.
Halesowen Church 259. — Water 391. High Force 411.
Halesworth 447. Hawick 456. Highnam 173.
Halifax 404. Hawkshead 381. High Pennard 199.
Halkirk. 507. Haworth 404. — Raise 388.
Hallamshire 359. Hawthornden 474. Side 399.
Halliford 222. Hay 203. 190. Street 391.
Hallin Fell 390. Hayhurn Wyke 420. Tor, the 365.
Hall-in-the-Wood 339. Haydon Bridge 418. Highworth 108.
Halstead 12. 442. Hayes Place 17. Hinchingbrook 363.
Haltwhistle 418. — Water 389. 391. High Wycombe 217.
Halwill 135. Hayfleld 370. Hildenborough 13.
Hamble, the 59. Hayle 148. Hillside 298. 499.
Hambleton Hills 409. Hayling 56. Hillswick 512.
Hamilton 480. Haystacks 398. Hindhead 66.
Hamoaze, the 142. Haytor 130. Hindon 102.
Hampshire 56. Hayward's Heath 43. 47. Hinton Admiral 96.
Hampton 222. 254. Heacham 442. Hirnant Valley 303.
— Court 222. Headingley 403. Hirwain 194. 197.
— Lucy Church 248. Heale House 101. Hitchin 363. 356.
Ham Street 43. Heathfleld 130. Hobbes Point 213.
Hamworthy 97. Heckington xlvii. Hobby Drive 158. 159.
Handborough 187. Heddon's Mouth 165. Hockley 259.
Handsworth 259. Heigham 446. Hodgeston Church 212.
Hangman Hill 163. Heilem 510. Hog's Back, the 64.
Hanois Rocks 89. Hele 163. Holkham 442.
Hanwell 106. Helensburgh 481. Hollardy Hill 168.
Hanwood 263. Helesborough 162. Hollingbourne 36.
Harbledown 32. Helford Passage 146. Hollingsbury Hill 51.
Hardraw Force 410. HelliQeld 404. Holme 363.
Hardwick Hall 402. Helm Crag 387. 334. Lacy 177.
— House 220. Helmsdale 507. Holmesley 97.
Harefleld 248. Helmsley 409. Holne 134.
Harewood House 421. Helsby 277. 323. — Chase 134.
Harlech 294. Helston 146. Holnicote 164.
Harlow Hill 422. Helvellyn 388. 392. 399. Holstone Down 16D.
Haroldswick 512. "
Hemel Hampstead 250. Holsworthy 135.
 INDEX. 525
Holsworthy & Bude Ca> Icart Bay 88. Tames Green 199.
nal 135. Icklesham 42. Janvrin Island 94.
Holt 107. 113. Ickleton Street 107. Jarrow 416. xxxv.
Holyhead 290. Icknield Street 349. Jedburgh 456.
Holy Island 417. Ickworth House 450. Jenkin's Crag 385.
Holytown 476. Icolmkill 490. Jerbourg Cape 88.
Holywell 279. Iffley 218. 217. 239. xxxix. Jersey 91.
Honddu 204. Ightham Moat 13. Jervaulx Abbey 410.
Honeybourne 187. 244. Ilford Bridges 167. Jesmond Dene 416.
Honister Hause 895. Ilfracombe 161. Jethou 89.
Honiton 103. Ilkeston 402. John o' Groat's House248.
Hoo 34. Ilkley 403. 421. Johnston 202.
Hook 76. Illgill Head 400. Joppa 460.
Hooton 277. Ilminster 138. Jordans 249.
Hope (Flint) 269. 276. Ilsham Grange 133. Juniper Hall 62.
277. Ilston Valley 201. Jura 488.
— (Derby) Ince Hall 331.
— Dale 369.369. Inchcape 497. Kearnsney 52.
— the 510.
, Inchcolm 496. Kedleston Hall 351.
Hopetoun 475. Inchkeith 462. 496. Keeston Hill 213.
Horley 46. Inchnadamph 507. Keighley 404.
Hornby Castle 410. Ingestre 346. Keith 495.
Horncastle 429. Ingleborough 405. Kelso 456.
Horner Woods 164. Ingleton 374. 405. Kelty 500.
Hornsea 426. Ingress Abbey 34. Kelvedon 442.
Horrabridge 130. 136. Innellan 487. Kemble 169.
Horringford 72. Innerleithen 468. Kendal 374.
Horsham 47. 52. Innerwick 459. Kenilworth 243. 241. 254.
— Steps 130. Instow Quay 160. Kenmore 601.
Horsted Keynes 47. Inveramsay 496. Kennet, the 106.
Horton 200. Inveraray 482. Kent 17.
Horton Kirby 18. Inverarnan 483. -, the 376.
Hothfleld 36. Invercannich 506. Kentmere 391.
Houghall 414. Invercauld 503. Kent's Cavern 132.
Houle, La 95. — Bridge 504. Kenyon 332.
Housesteads 418. Inveresk 460. Kepier Hospital 414.
Hove 51. Invergarry Castle 493. Keppelcove Tarn 392.
Howden 406. llv. Invergordon 506. Kerne Bridge 175.
Howtown 391. Inverkeithing 496. 600. Kerrera 489.
Hoxa 511. Invermoristown 493. Kerry 264.
Hoy 511. Inverness 493. Kershope Foot 456.
Hoylake 279. 331. Inverpolly 509. Keskadale 396.
Hoyle's Mouth210. Invershin 507. Keston Common 17.'
Hueknall Torkard 431. Inversnaid 483. Keswick 392.
Huddersfield 339. Inverurie 495. Kettering 354.
Hughenden Manor 217. Iona 490. Kettleswell 410.
Hugh Town 152. Ipswich 444. Keymer Junction 47.
Hull 425. llii. Irk 334. Keynsham 113.
Humber, the 426. Iron Acton 122. Kidderminster 260.
Hungerford 106. Irongray 463. Kidsty Pike 391.
Hunstanton Hall 442. Irthing, the 417. Kidwelly 201.
— St. Edmund's 442. Irvine 481. Kilbowie 477.
Hunter's Inn 165. Irwell, the 832. 334. Kilburn 249.
Huntingdon 363. 354. Ise, the 355. Kilchurn Castle 482.
Huntly 495. Isis, the 224. 216. Kildonan 607.
Hurley Lock 220. Isla, the 499. Kilgerran 202.
Hursley 80. Islay 488. Kilkhampton 167.
Hurstbourne 98. Isle of Grain 84. Killay 199. 201. 207.
Hurst Castle 96. Islip 217. 239. 354. Killearn 486.
Hurstmonceaux 42. 44. Itchin, the 59. 77. 81. Killiecrankie 602.
52. Ithon, the 206. Killin 501. 492.
Horstpierpoint Park 47. Ivy Bridge 134. Killingworth 416.
Hythe 14. 75. Castle 89. Kilmarnock 463.
 526 INDEX.
Kilmelfort 490. Knoll 383. Leckhampton Hill 182.
Kilmorack Falls 506. Knowle 244. Ledbury 190.
Kilpeck 190. Knowsley 331. Ledmore 507.
Kilsby 252. Knucklas 206. Lee (Devon) 161. 162.
Kilwinning 481. Knutsford 277. — (Kent) 33.
Kimbolton 354. Kyle of Sutherland 507. — Bay 165.
Kinderscout 364. 370. Kyles of Bute 488. on-the-Solent 59.
Kineton 240. Kylesku Ferry 509. Leeds 402. 340.
Kinghorn 496. Kymin Hill 175. — Castle 36.
Kingsbridge 134. 134. Kynance Cove 147. Leek Wootton 243.
Kingsbury 248. Leen, the 430.
Kingsclere 98. Lacock Abbey 108. Leicester 352. 253.
Kingsdown 25. Ladybank 496. 500, Leigh Down 122.
Kingsgate 23. Ladv Booth 370. Leighton 250.
Kingskerswell 130. —
Place 220. — Buzzard 250. 357.
King's Lynn 441. La Hogue Bie 93. Leith 473.
— Sutton 240. Lairg 507. — Hill 61.
Kingston (I. of Wight) 71 Lake District 377. Lelant Bay 148.
— (on Thames) 222. Side 377. 380. Leman, the 129.
— Lisle 107. Laleham 222. Lenham 36.
Kingswear 132. Lamberhurst 37. Lentram 505.
King's Weston 121. Lamesley 414. Leny, Pass of 492. 484.
Kingswood 244. Lamlash 482. Lenzie 486.
Kington 203. Lammas Castle 405. Leominster 180.
Kingussie 492. 502. Lamorna Cove
150. Lerwick 512.
Kinlochewe 494. Lampeter
208. 206. Leslie 496.
Kinloeh Rannoch 502. Lamphey
211. Lesnes Abbey 33.
Kinloss Abbey 495. Lanark 480. Leuchars 496.
Kinnoul Hill 499. Lancaster 373. Leven, the 377. 483.
Kinross 486. 500. Lancing 52. Lever Water 382.
Kippen 486. Landewednack 148. Lewes 43. 47.
Kippenross Park 484. Landore 197. Lewis 494.
Kirk Bride 344. Landport 57. 58. Lewisham 33.
Kirkby Lonsdale 405. Land's End 151. Lexden 443.
| Stephen 405. 411. Landulph 142. Leyburn 410.
Kirkcaldy 496. Lanercost Priory 486. Leys, the 175.
Kirkcudbright 463. Langdale Pikes 3S3. Lezare 344.
Kirkfell 398. Langdon Hill 450. Lichfield 259. 347. xlvii.
Kirkfleldbank 480. Langholm 455. xlviii.
Kirkham 373. Langland Bay 198. 199. Liddel, the 455.
— Abbey 418. Langley Mill 402. Liddesdale 456.
Kirkhammerton 409. Langside 479. Lidford 135.
Kirkintilloch 486. Langstrath Beck 396. Lifton 135.
Kirkliston 475. Lansdown 112. Lihou 89.
Kirk Maughold 344. Lantern Hill 162. Limpley Stoke 107. 112.
Kirk Michael 344. Lapford 105. Linby 431.
Kirkpatrick 461. Largs 461. 481. Lincluden Abbey 463.
Kirkstall Abbey 403. xlii.
Latheron 507. Lincoln426.xxxvi.xxxix.
— Forge 404. Lathkill Dale 366. xl. xli. xlii. xlv. xlvi.
Kirkstead 429. Latrigg 399. xlvii. xlviii.
Kirkstone Pass 389. Lauder 458. Lindisfarne 417. xxxviii.
Kirkwall 511. Laugharne 201. Lingmell 398. 401.
Kirn 487. Launceston 135. Lingmoor Fell 383.
Kirtle Bridge 461. Laurencekirk 498. Lingwood 447.
Kitlanda 61. Laver, the 423. Linlithgow 475.
Kits Cotv House 21. 34. Lawrence Hill 121. Linn of Dee 503.
Kittle 20*1. Laxey 342. — Muick
of 504.
Knaphill 65. Laxford Bridge 507. Liphook 66.
Knaresborough 409. Lea, the 357. 363. 431. Liskeard 144.
Knebworth 363. Learn, the 240. Lismore 449.
Knighton 205. Leamington 240. 253. Liss 66.
Knight Wood, the 84. Leamside 414. Littlecote Hall 106.
Knole 12. Lentherhead 62.
I
Little Haldon 129.
 :

INDEX. 527
Littlehampton 53. Liverpool Llanfyllin 264.
Little Haven St. John's Church 326. Llangadock 206.
— Hempston 202.
134. — Luke's Church 328. Llangammarch Wells 206.
— Langdale 382. — Margaret's Ch. 328. Llangollen 304.
— Haplestead 442.386. — Matthew's & St. Llangorse Pool 204.
Littlemore 239. James' Church 329. Llangunllo 206.
Littleton 63. — Michael's Ch. 328. Llangunnor 208.
Liverpool 323. — Nicholas' Ch. 327. Llanidloes 203. 265.
Alexandra Theatre 326. — Peter's Church 327. Llanilar 208.
Bluecoat Hospital 327. Seamen's Orphanage Llanmorlais 199. 207.
Bold Street 328. 329. Llanrhaiadr 280.
Botanic Gardens 329. Seftoii Park 328. yn-Mochnant 264.
Bowes' Japanese Mu- Shaw Street 329. Llanrhychwyn 308.
seum 328. Stanley Park 329. Llanrwst 310. 307.
Canning Place 327. Statues 326. 327. 328. Llanthony Abbey 191.
Castle Street 327. Steamers 324. Llantrissant 196.
Cattle Market 329. Synagogue 328. Llantwit Major 196.
Conservative Club 327. Theatres 324. 326. Llantysilio 304. 305.
Convent of Notre Town Hall 327. Llanuwchllyn 265. 302.
Dame 329. Toxteth Park Chapel Llanvihangel 191.
Dale Street 326. 329. Llanwdden 303.
Docks 329. Unitarian Chapel 328. Llanwddyn Valley 303.
Duke Street 327. Walker Fine Art Gal- Llanwrda 206.
Environs 327. lery 326. Llanycil 302.
Everton330. Wavertree Park 329. Llanymynech 264.
Exchange 327. Wellington Mon. 326. Llawhaden Castle 209.
Gallery of Art 328. Welsh Presbyterian Llawllech Mts. 295.
Goree Piazzas 330. Church328. Llechrhyd 203.
Greek Church 328. Workhouse 329. Lledr Valley 309.
Japanese Museum 328. Young Men's Christian Lleyn Promontory 293.
JuniorBef ormClub 327. Association 329 296.
Landing Stage 329. Liverpool Reservoir, the Lliwed 309. 319.
Law Courts 326. 303. Llugwy, the 308. 309.
Library, Free 326. Liza, the 398. Llwchwr, the 201.
Liverpool College 329. Lizard, the 147. Llwyngwril 266.
— Institute 328. — Town 146. 148. Llyfnant Valley 266.
— UniversityColl. 329. Llanaber Church 296. Llyn Aran 300.
Lyceum 328. Llanbadr-Fawr 267. —
Arenig 303.
Medical Institute 329. Llanbeblig Church 292. —
Crafnant 308.
Mersey Tunnel 330. Llanbedr 294. —
Cwellyn 315.
Mount Pleasant 329. Llanberis 314. Cwnwch 298.
Municipal Offices 326. - Pass 315. Ddw'r Arddu 321.
Museum 326. Llanbrynmair 265. Elsi 308.
Newsham Park 329. Llandaff 194. 195. xliii. — Gwernan 300.
Picton Heading Room xliv. — Gwynant 318.
326. Llandderfel 303. — Idwal 310.
Pier Head 330. Llanddona 290. — Llydaw 320.
Police Court 326. Llanddwyve 296. Ogwen 310. 288.
Post Office 324. 327. Llandegai 288. Padarn 814.
Prince'sPark 327. Llandewi-Brefi 208. Peris 314.
Railway Stations 323. Llandilo 206. — Safadden 204.
326. 327. 331. Llandisilio Church 290. Tegid 302.
Reform Club 327. Llandovery 206. Teyrn 321.
Revenue Offices 327. Llandrillo 303. 281. — Trigraienyn 302.
Rodney Street 328. Llandrindod Wells 208. — Tryweryn 303.
Royal Infirmary 329. Llandudno 281. — -y-Cae 301.
— Institution 328. Llandyssil 208. 202. y-Cwn 316.
Sailors' Home 327. Llanelltyd 296. 299. y-Dinas 318.
St. Francis Xavier's Llanelly 201. y-Dywarchen 317.
Church 329. Llanfachreth 302. — -y-Gadr 301.
— George's Church 327. Llanfair (Anglesey) 290. — -y-Gafr 301.
Hall 326. Llanfairfechan 285. y-Morwynion 312.
— James's Cem. 328. Llaniihangel 265. 266. — -y-Parc 310. 308.
528 INDEX.
Llyniau Mymbyr 816. Loch Torridon 494. Lyndhurst 83.
Loch A'an 503. — Trool 464. — Road 95.
-r- Achray 484. — Tummel 502. Lynher, the 143.
— Aline 489. — Vennachar 484. Lynmouth 164. 166.
— Alsh 493. 506. Watten 508. Lynn 441.
— Arklet 483. Lockerbie 461. Lynton 161. 166. 128.
— Assynt 507. 509. Lodore Falls 394. Lytham 373.
— Awe 482. 490. Logan Rock 150. Lyulph's Tower 390.
— Baddegyle 509. Loman, the 129.
— Broom 509. London 1. Macclesfield 340.
— Callater 503. Longdendale 358. Machno, the
310.
— Carron;506. Longford Castle 101. Machynlleth 265.
— Coruisk 491. Longhope 173. Madeley 346.
— Dochfour 492. Longleat 113. lvii. Madingley 439.
— Drunkie 486. Long Meg 374. Maenporth 146.
— Earn 498. 492. Long Melford 442. Maentwrog 313.
Lochearnhead 498. Longniddry 460. —
Road 319. 303.
Loch Eck 482. Longnor 372. Maes Cwm
315.
— Eil 492. Longship Rocks 151. —
Garmon 277.
— Eilt 492. Longtown 455. y-Gaer 285.
— Eribol 510. Looe 144. Magna Charta Is. 222.
— Etive 490. Loseley 63. Maiden Castle 97. 414.
Lochetivehead 490. Lossiemouth 495. Maidenhead 221. 106.217.
Loch Ewe 508. Lostwithiel 144. Maiden Paps 456.
— Fyne 482. 488. Loth 507. Maidstone 35.
— Gilp 488. Loudwater 217. Maikenfield Hall 424.'
— Glencoul 509. Loughborough 352. Mainland 610.
— Glendhu 509. — Junction 17. Maldon 442.
Lochgoilhead 482. Loughor 201. Mailing 35. xl.
Loch Inchard 509. Loughrigg Fell 387. 385 Mallwyd 265.
— Inver 509. Louth 429. Malmesbury 108.xlvi.liv.
— Katrine 484. Lowestoft 448. Malmsmead 164. 167.
— Ken 464. Lowes Water 396. Malton 419.
— Leven (Fife) 486. Low Gill 374. Malvern 189. 182. liv,
(Argyll) 492. 500 Hartsop 391. —
Hills 190.
— Linnhe 492. Lowick 354. Mam
Tor 364.
— Lochy 493. Low Water 382. Man, Isle of 340.
— Lomond 483. — Wood Hotel 380. Manaccan 146.
— Long 481. 487. Luccombe Chine 70. Manaton 130.
— Luhnaig 484. 492. Luce Bay 464. Manchester 333.
— Luichart 506. Lucker 417. Albert Sqare 337.
— Lurgan 509. Luckham 164. All Saints' Church 338.
— Maree 494. Luddington 247. Ancoats 338.
— Melfort 490. Ludlow 180. Assize Courts 337.
— Menteith 486. Lulworth Castle 97. Athenaeum 337.
Lochnagar 503. Lumley Castle 414. Bellevue Gardens 338.
Loch Ness 493. Luncarty 499. Botanic Gardens 338.
— Oich 493. Lundy 156. 159. Broughton 334.
— Rannoch (Perthshire) Lune, the 373. Cathedral 336. Hi.
502. Luss 483. Cheadle 338.
(Inverness) 492. Lustleigh 130. Cheetham Hill 334.
— Ranza 482. Luton 357. Chetham College 336
— Ridden 488. Lutterwoth 354. Church of the Holy
— Rosque 494. Lybster 507. Name 338.
— Ruar 507. Lydbrook 175. 177. City Art Gallery 337
— Ryan 464. Lydd 43. Concert Hall 334.
— Scavaig 491. Lydney 122. 192. County Gaol 337-
— Shiel 492. Lydstep 211. Dea,nsgate 337.
— Shin 507. Lyme Regis 102. Exchange 335.
— Stennesa 511. Lymington 73. 95. Factories 335.
— Striven 488. Lyn, the 163. 166. etc, Falloufield 334. 338.
— Tay 501. — Bridge 163. Free Trade Hall 337.
— Tollie 508. — Cliff 166. Grammar School 336.
 :

INDEX. 529
Manchester Marldon 132. Middleham 410.
Library, Free 337. Marlow 221. 217. Middlesborough 410.
Manchester Art Museum Marple 349. Middleton Cross 365.
338 Marshfield 192. — Dale 368.
— School 338. Marsh Mills 136. in-Teesdale 411.
— Ship Canal 339. Marston 409. Middletown 263.
Market Street 335. Moor 409. Midhurst 66.
Memorial Hall 337. Martoa 253. Milford (Pembroke) 202.
Mosley Street 337. Maryport 376. 377. — (Surrey) 65.
Old Srafford 334. 339. Mary-Tavy 136. — Haven 202. 203. 213.
Owens College 338. Masborough 402. Mill Bay 134. 136.
Oxford Street 338. Masbury 112. Millbeck 393.
Peel Park 338. Masham 424. 410. Millbridge 66.
Piccadilly 335. Masson 365. Mill Brook 143.
Post Office 333. 335. Matlock 365. 350. Mill Dale 372.
Railway Stations 333. Matterdale End 397. Miller Brow 380.
335. 337. 338. Mauchline 463. Miller's Dale 350.
Roman Catholic Cathe- Maumhury Rings 97. Millgill Force 410.
dral 338. Mavis Grind 512. Millalade 167.
Royal Infirmary 335. Mawcarse 500. Milton 96.
Rusholme 338. Mawddach, the
295. 296. Milton Park 363.
St. Peter's Church 337. Mawnan Smith
146. Milverton 241. 128.
Salford 334. 338. Maxwelltown 463. Minchin Head 199.
School Board Offices May, Isle of 460. Minehead 168. 128.
337. —
Hill 173. Minety 169.
School of Art 338. Maybole 481. Minstead 83.
Smithfield Market 336. Mayfield 38. Minster (Cornwall) 156.
Statues 335. 336. 327. Mealvourvonie 493. — (nr. Ramsgate) 24.
Theatres 333. 338. Measand Beck 391. — (nr. Sheerness) 22.23.
Town Hall 337. Meavy, the 136. Minsterley 263.
Victoria University 338, Medina, the 72. Minto Crags 456.
Whitworth Institute Medlock, the 334. Mirables 71.
338. Medmenham 220. Mirfield 340.
— Park 338. Medway, the 18. 34. Mitcham 62.
Workhouse 337. Meikle Ferry 506. Moat Lane 264. 203.
Young Men's Christian Melfort Pass 490. Mochras Peninsula 294.
Association 338. Mell Fell 397. Modbury 133.
Mangotafield 112. 121. Melmerby 424. Moel Cynwch 298.
Manesty 394. Melrose 457. — Eilio 315. 317.
Manifold, the 372. Melton Constable 447. — Fammau 280. 277.
Manningtree 443. —
Mowbray 352. — Ferna 304.
Manod Mawr 311. Melvich 607. 510. Moelfre 294.
Manorbier 211. Menai Bridge Village 290. Moel Hebog 319.
Mansfield 429. Station 290. Offrwm 295. 298.
Mapledurham 220. Mendip Hills 113. 123. 126. — Morfydd 304.
Mappleton 372. Menheniot 144. — Siabod 308. 309. 316.
Mar Lodge 503. Menston 403. — Wnion 285.
Marazion 149. Mentmore 250. Moelwyn 311. 313. 319.
March 363. Meopham 18. Moel-y-Gamelin 304. 306.
- -Geifr 303.
Mardale Green 391. Merripit 138.
Margam Abbey 196. Merrivale 138. - -Geraint 304.
Margate 22. 23. Mersey, the 322. 324. - -Gest 293.

Marham Church 156. 332. etc. - -Senicl 294.

Mark Ash Wood 84. Merstham 46. - -Tryfan 317.

Market Bosworth 354. Merthyr Tydvil 194. 191. Moffat 461.

— Drayton 261. Mewslade Bay 200. — Dale 458.
— Harborough 354. 253 Micheldean 173. Mold 271. li.
— Jew 149. —
Road 173. Mole, the 46.
— Rasen 426. Michelham Priory 44. — Park 36.
— Weighton 424. Mickleden 397. Mona 289.
Markinch 496. Micklefield 404. Moncrieff Hill 499.
Mark's Tey 442. Mickleham 62. Moness Falls 501.
Marlborough 107. 108. Midcalder 461. 476. Moniave 463.
Baedekek's Great Britain. 2nd Edit. 34
530 INDEX.
Monifieth 479. Mull of Galloway 464. Newbury 106.
Monkcastle 509. Mullyon 117. Newcastle 414. 418. liv.
Monkey Is. 221. Mumbles, the 198. Emlyn 202.
Monkstone Promontory Mumbles Road 207. -under-Lyme 346.
210. Mundesley 447. Newcastleton 456.
Monkton Priory 212. Muness Castle 512. Newchurch 72.
Monkwearmouth xxxv. Murthly 500. New Cross 12. 33. 45.
Monmouth 175. Murtle 504. Cumnock 463.
Monnow, the 175. Musselburgh 460. Newent 190.
Monsal Dale 350. 367. Mutley 134. 136. New Forest 83.
Montgomery 264. Mylor 146. Galloway 463.
Mont Mado 95. Mynach, the 267. Newgate Bridge 213.
— Orgtieil 93. Mynffordd 293. 314. New Hailes 460.
Montpellier 121. Mynydd Nodal 303. Newhaven (England) 43.
Montrose 497. — Mawr 317. — (Scotland) 474.
Monzie 498. — Moel 300. New Holland 426.
Moorhampton 203. Mytham Bridge 369. Newington 22.
Moor Park 76. 248. Newlands 396.
Morebath 128. Nab Cottage 384. Corner 61.
Morecambe 374. Ferry 380. Newlyn 150.
Moreton 97. Scar 383. 385. Newmarket (Suffolk)
— Hampstead 130. 138. Naburn 406. 449.
in-the-Marsh 187. Nailsea 122. — (Wales) 279.
Morfa Harlech 294. Nailsworth 122. New Milford 202.
Morlaix 194. Nairn 494. New Mills 350.
Morpeth 416. Nan Bield Pass 391. Newnham 192.
Morrone Hill 503. Nannau 298. New Passage 121.
Morte Point 162. Nant-Eos 267. Newport (Salop) 346.
Morthoe 161. 162. Ffrancon 310. (Wales) 202.
Morton Pinknev 240. Nant Gwyllt 203. — (Monmouth) 192.
Morven 504. 507. — Gwynant 318. (Wight) 72.
Morwell Rocks 142. — Mill 317. Pagnell 250.
Moi'wenstow 156. Nantlle 292. New Quay (Cardigan) 202.
Mosedale 399. Nantwich 346. 208.
Mossgiel 463. Nant-y-Gwryd 316. — (Cornwall) 144. 153.
Mossley 339. -y-Mor 319. Radnor 180. 203.
Mostyn 279. Naseby 253. 354. Romney 43.
Motherwell 461. Nash Cliffs, the 196. — Shoreham xliv.
Mottistone 71. Narberth 209. — Southgate 364.
— Down 72. Naworth 418. Newstead Abbey 431.
Moulin Huet Bay 88. Near Sawrey 380. Newton Abbot 130.
Moulsey Lock 222. Neasden 248. le- Willows 332.
Moulsford 219 107. Neath 196. Newtown 73. 264.
ilound, the 506. 507. Neb, the 344. — Stewart 464.
Mount Caburn 43. Needles, the 74. Neyland 202.
— Edgcumhe 142. Neidpath Castle 458. Nicholaston 201.
— Harry 43. Nene, the 251. 252. 362, Nidd, the 409.
Mountjoy 414. Ness, the 505. Ningwood 73.
Mount St. Bernard 354 Netherby Hall 455. Nith, the 462. 463.
—
:

Sorrel 352. Nether Stowey 127. Niton 71.

— Stuart 488. Netley 59. xlvii. Noe, the 369.
Mousa 512. — Abbey 82. Noirmont 94.
Mousehole 150. Neville's Cross 414. Noltland 510.
Mouse Water 480. Nevin 293. Norbury 373.
Mouth Mill 158. New Abbey 463. Park 62.
Moye, La 94. Newark 367. 429. liii. Norfolk Broads 448. •
Much Wenlock 181. — Abbey 65. Norhain 456.
Muirkirk 463. Newbattle Abbey 459. Normanhurst 40. 42.
Muir of Ord 506. Newbridge 194. Normanton 402.
Muirtown 493. on-Wye 203. Norris Castle 75.
Mulgrave Castle 421. New Brighton 332. Northallerton 409. 424.:!
Mull, Isle of 489. — Brompton 22. Northam 80. I
— of Cantyre 4fc'8. Newburgh 106. — Burrows 160. i
 . :

INDEX. 531

Northampton 251. 356. Oldbury 260. Oxford

xxxix. Old Colwyn 281. Environs 238.
North Berwick 459. — Cumnock 463. Examination Schools
Northcourt 71. Oldham 339. 230.234.
North Downs 46. 60. Old Llanheris 314. Exeter College 235.
Northfleet 34. — Man, the 382. Hertford College 232.
North Foreland 23. — Sarum 98. 101. High St. 234.
— Hill 128. — Windsor Lock 222. Indian Institute 232.
Northiam 42. Oliver's Mount 420. Jesus College 235.
North Queensferry 496. Oiler Brook Booth 370. Keble College 232.
— Ronaldshay 511. Ollerton 361. Lady Margaret Hal
— Road 134. 139. Olney 356. 238.
.— Shields 416. Onchan 342. Lincoln College 235.1ix.
— Stoke 112. Ore 41. Magdalen College 233.
— Tawton 135. Orkney Islands 510. 511. JIanchester New Col-
Northumberland Lakes Ormathwaite 393. lege 232.
418. Orme's Head 282. 283. Mansfield College 232.
North Wales 277. Ormiston 460. lix.
— Walsham 447. Ormskirk 331. Martyrs' Memorial 236.
Northwich 280. 277. Orpington 12. Merton College 229.
Northwood 248. Orrest Head 379. xlvii.
North Wooton 442. Orwell, the 444. Music Room 232.
Norton Bridge 346. Osborne 75. New College 232. xlix.
— Fitzwarren 128. Oscott 259. lix.
Norwich 444. xxxvii. Osmington 98. New Inn Hall 238.
xliv. xlvi. Oswestry 264. Oriel College 229.
Norwood 45. Otford 32. Pembroke College 238.
Noss 512. Otley 403. 421. Post Office 238. 223.
Nothe, the 98. Otterburne 80. Proscholium 231.
Nottingham 420. Otterspool 332. Queen's College 234.
Noup Head 510. Ottery St. Mary 103. Badcliffe Infirmarv 237.
Novar, the 606. Oulton Broad 448. — Library 230.
Nuneaton 254. 349. Oundle 252. — Observatory 237.
Nuneham Courtenay 218, Ouse, the, 250. 355. 356. St.Alban Hall 229.
— Park 216. 406. etc. — Aldate's Church 238.
Nunwell 69. Oxenfell 386. — Aloysius'S Church
Nutcombe Wood 167. Oxenholme 374. 237.
Nutfleld 13. 46. Oxenhope 404. — Edmund Hall 233.
Oxford 223. Hi. lvi. lvii. — Frideswide xlvi.
Oakham Castle xxxix. lviii. lix. — Giles's Church 237.
xl. xli. All Saints' Church 235. — Hugh's Hall 238.
Oakley 355. — Souls College 235. — John's College 236.
— Park 170. Ashmolean Museum — Martin's Church 237.
Oare Church 164. 231. — Mary's Church 229.
Oareford 164. Balliol College 235. lvii.
Oatlands Park 65. 222. Boats 223. Hall 229.
Chan 489. Bodleian Library 230. — Mary Magdalen
Ochil Hills 485. Botanic Garden 234. Church 236.
Ochtertyre 498. Brasenose College 230. College 233.
Ockwells 221. Broad Street 235. — Michael's Church
Oddicomhe 132. — Walk 229. 237.»xxxvi.
Oddington 239. Carfax 237. St. Pauls lvii.
Odiham 76. Castle 238. St.Peter's in the East
OfiVs Dyke 203. 205. Cathedral 227. Church 233.
264. Christ Church 227. lvii. Schools 230. 231. 234.
Offchurch Bury 241. Meadow 229. Sheldonian Theatre231.
Oghury Hill 101. . Clarendon Building231. Show Sunday 229.
Ogmore Castle 196. College Barges 229. 223. Somerville Hall 238.
Ogwen, the 286. Commemoration 227. Taylor Institution 236.
Okehampton 135. Convocation House 231 lix.
Okement, the 135. Corpus Christi College Town Hall 238.
Old Barrow, the 164. 229. Trinity College 236.
— Basing 76. Divinity School231. lvi. Union Society 237.
34*
>32 INDEX.
Oxford : Pendleton 333. Picton 410.
University College 234, Pendragon Castle 405. — Castle 202.
— Galleries 236. Pendre 266. Piercefield Park 177.
— Museum 232. Penenden Heath 36. Pierrepoint House 66.
— Park 232. Penge 145. Pike o'Blisco 383.
— Press 237. Pengwern Hall 305. Pill 121.
Wadham College 232.Penielheugh 456. Pilmoor 409.
Water Walks 234. Penistone 359. Pilning 121.
Worcester College 237. Penkridge 261. Pilton 160.
Oxted 46. Penmaen 201. Pinhoe 103.
Oxwich 200. Penmaenbach 285. Pinkie 460.
Oykell 507. Penmaenmawr 285. Pinner 248. 250.
Oystermouth 198. 199. Penmaenpool 296. 297. Pistyll Rhaiadr 264. 303.
Penmon Priory 290. — -y-Cain 299.
Pabo Hill 283. Pennalt 176. -Llyn 266.
Packwood House 259. Pennard 199. Pitchford Hall 263.
Paddock Wood 13. 36. Penpergwm 191. Pitlochry 502.
Padstow 136. 153. Pen Pits 113. Place Fell 390. 391.
Paignton 132. Penpole Point 121. Plas 314.
Paisley 481. Penrice 200. — Newydd 289. 305.
Pandy 191. Penrhyn 283. 287. 314. Plemont Point 94.
— Mill 300. 310. —Castle 288. Plinlimmon 265. 203.
Pangbourne 107. Penrhyndeudraeth 293. Plumpton 43.
Pannanich Wells 504. Penrith 374. — Park 422.
Panorama Walk 295. Penryn 145. Plumstead 33.
Pantglas 292. Pensarn 280. 294. Pluscarden Abbey 495.
Par 144. Penselwood 113. Plym, the 134. 136. 139.
Parkeston Quay 443. Pensford 121. Plymouth 134. 139.
Parkgate 278. 322. Penslmrst 13. 37. Plympton 134.
Parkliurst Forest 73. Pentargain Cove 156. Pocklington 424.
Park Mill 201. Pentillie Castle 142. Point of Ayre 344.
Parkside 332. Pentland Firth 510. Polegate 38. 43.
Parkstone 97. Hills 474. 461.
I Polly 509.
Parracombe 163. Penton Hook Lock 222. Polmont 475.
Parrett, the 127. Pentraeth 290. Polperro 144.
Partick 487. Pentre Voelas 310. Poltesco 146.
Parton 464. Pentrwyn 282. Pomona 510.
Patchway 121. Penwyllt 205. Pont-Aberglaslyn 318.
Pateley Bridge 422. Penyard 173. Pontac 93.
Patricroft 332. Penybont 294. Pontardulais 207.
Patterdale 390. 389. Pen-y-Crug 204. Pont Cysylltau 268.
Paul Church 150. Fan 205. — Ddu 296.
Paviland Caves, the 200. Gaer 307. Pontefract 405.
Peak 420. Ghent 405. Pont Erwyd 267.
— , the 364. Goed 305. — Llanio 208.
— Forest Station 350. Groes 292. — Neath Vaughan 197.
Peakirk 363. —
-Gwryd 316. — Newydd 285. 313.
Pebble Ridge 160. Hitch 200. — Rhyd-y-Groes 267.
Peebles 458. —
-Pass 310. 316. Pontrilas 190.
Peel 344. Penzance 148. 149. Pont-y-Gromlech 316.
Pegwell Bay 24. Perran Porth 144. — -y-Gyfyng 309.
Pelter Bridge 385. Perranwell 145. y-Mynach 267.
Pembrey 201. Pershore 187. xliv. -y-Pair 308.
Pembroke 212. Perth 498. 500. y-Pant 309. 310.
— Dock 213. Peterborough 362. 252 Pontypool 191.
Pembrokeshire 208. xlii. xliv. xlv. — Road 191.
Penally 210. Peterhead 495. Pontypridd 194.
Penarth 193. Petersfleld 66. Poole 97.
Pencader 208. Peterston 192. Poole's Hole 371.
Pcnclawdd 207. Petteril, the 375. Poolewe 508.
Pendennis Castle 146. Pevensey 42. 52. Pooley Bridge 389.
Pendine 201. Pi'veril Castle 369. Poortown 344.
Pendle Hill 339. Philipstown 475. Pope's Tower 112.
 INDEX. 533
Porchester 53. Pull Wyke Bay 380. Reedsmouth 419. 417.
Porlock 128. 161. 169. Pumpsaint 206. Reepham 447.
— Hill 164. Purbeck Island 97. Reigate 59.
— Weir 164. 169. Purley (Oxon) 220. Renfrew 487.
Port Askaig 488. — (Surrey) 46. Renton 483.
— Baunatyne 488. Purton 169. liv. Repton-Willington 188.
Portbury 121. Pwll-du Bay 199. xxxv.
Port Carlisle 376. . Pwllheli 293. Ileston 459.
— Dinorwie 291. Restormel Castle 144.
— Eliot 142. Quaker's Yard 194. Retford 361.
— Erin 343. Quantock Hills 127. Rew Down 72.
— Eynon 200. Quarley Hill 98. Reynoldston 200.
- Glasgow 487. Quarr Abbey 68. Rhaiadr Cwm 266. 312.
Portinscale 394. Quarry Woods 221. — Du 299. 312.
Portishead 121. Queenborough 22. — Gorge 265.
Portland Castle 98. Queen Eleanor's Cross — Mawddach 299.
Portland Island 98. 252. Rhayader 203.
Port Madoc 293. 314. Queensferry 475. Rheidol 267.
— of Menteith 486. Queen's Ferry 278. Rhiconich Inn 509.
Portobello 459. Quex 23. Rhinns of Galloway 464.
Porton 98. Quiraing, the 491. Rhinog Fawr 294.
Portpatrick 464. Quorndon 352. Rhiw, the 264.
Port Penrhyn 286. Rhiwargor 303.
Portreath 144. Raby Castle 414. Rhobell-Fawr 295. 299.
Portree 491. Radley 216. 302.
Pert St. Mary 343. Radnor Park 14. Rhondda, the 194.
Portsea 56. Radstock 112. 121. Rhossily 200.
Portskewett 192. Raglan 176. Rhuddlan 280.
Port Skillian 342. Rainford 333. Rhu Nohar 494.
Portslade 62. Rainham 22. Rhyd-Ddu 317.
Portsmouth 56. Rame Head 143. Rhyl 279.
Port Soderick 343. Ramp Holme 380. Rhymney, the 192. 194.
— Talbot 196. Ramsey (Isle of Man) 344. — Bridge 194.
— Victoria 34. — (island) 216. Ribble, the 405. 373.
Post Bridge 138. — (near Peterborough) Ribblehead 405.
Potteries 345. 363. Riccarton 456.
Poulton 373. Ramsgate 23. 24. Richborough 25.
Poundbury Castle 97. Ranmore Common 62. Richmond (Surrey) 222.
Powderham Castle 129. Rapparee Cove 162. — (York) 410.
Powys Castle 264. Ratho 475. — Hill 222.
Poynings 51. Raven Fall 313. Rickmansworth 248.
Pradanack Head 147. Ravenglass 377. Riddings 455.
Prawle Point 133. Ravensbourne 17. Ridgeway, the 210. 107.
Precely Hills 202. Ravensworth Castle 411 Rievaulx Abbey 409.
Precipice Walk 298. Rawlinson Nab 380. Ringwood 97.
Preesgweene 268. Raynham Park 447. Ripon 422.
Prestatyn 279. Reading 106. 64. 220. Rivals, the 292.
Presteign 203. 205. Reay 510. Roade 251.
Preston (Brighton) 51. Reculver 23. Robertsbridge 38.
— (Lancashire) 373 Redbridge 95. Robin Hood's Bay 420.
Prestonpans 460. Redcastle 504. Robinson 396.
Preston Park 47. Redditch 188. Rocester 373.
— Scar 410. Redhill Junction 13. 46. Roch Castle 213.
Prestwick 481. Redlands Wood 61. Rochdale 359.
Prieatfield 260. Redmire 410. Roche, the 339.
Prince's Risborough 217. Red Pike (Buttermere) Rochester 18. 34.
Princetown 136. 138. 395. Rock 144.
Prior Park 112. (Mosedale) 399. — Ferry 322.
Probus 145. Redruth 146. Rockford 167.
Prudhoe 419. Red Screes 389. Rocky Valley 155.
Prysor, the 312. — Tarn 392. Rokeby 411.
Puckaster 71. — Wharf Bay 290. Rolleston 429.
Puflin Island 290. Reedham 447. 448. Rollright Stones 187.
534 INDEX.
Roman Bridge 311. Saddleback 374. 399. St. James's 332.
Romford 442. Saddleworth 339. — John's 12. 33.
Romilly 349. Saffron Walden 431. (Isle of Man) 343.
Romney Marsh 43. Sailmore 509. — Just in Penwith 152.
Romsey 82. St. Abb's Head 459. — Keverne 146.
Ronaldshay 511. — Agnes 144. — Keyne's Well 144.
Eoodee, the 278. — Agnes's Beacon 146. — Lawrence (Kent) 24.
Rookley 72. — Albans357.250. xxxiv. of Wight) 71.
(I.
Roose 377. xxxvii. liv. — Leonard's 40. 41.
Rosehill 254. 417. — Andrews 496. — Margaret's 25.
Rosherville 18. — Anne 89. Bay 16.
Roslin 475. — Anne's Hill 222 Hope 511.
— Castle 474. — Ann's Chapel 137. — Martha's Church 62.
Ross 173. — Aubin Bay 91. — Martin
Rossett Crag 397. — Aubin's 94. — Martin's8S.Priory 41(1.
Rosthwaite 395. 388. — Asaph 230. — Mary Cray 18.
Rothay, the 380. 3^3. — Austell 145. — Mary's 152.
385. — Bees 377. Tsle 463.
— Bridge 385. — Blazey 144. Loch (Ettrick) 45S.
Rothbury 417. — Boniface Down 70. (Orkney) 511.
Rother, the 38. — Boswell's 456. — Mawes' Castle 146.
Rotherham 360. 402. — Brelade's Church 94. — Michael's 332.
Rotherhithe 32. — Briavel's 176. 177. Mount 149.
Rotherly 102. — Bride's Bay 213. — Neot's (Cornwall) 144.
Rothes 495. — Budeaux 139. (Huntingdon) 363.
Rothesay 487. — Buryan 150. — Nighton's Kieve 15!?.
Rothiemurchus Forest — Catharine's Harbour — Ninian 485.
503. 93. — Olave's 448.
Rothley Temple 352. — Catharine's Hill (Sur- — Ouen's Bay 94.
Rottingdean 52. rey) 63. — Paul's Cray 18.
Roudham 441. of Wight) 71. — Peter Port 87.
(I.
Rougemont Castle 103. (Winchester) SO. — Peter's 24.
Rousay 511. — Catharine's Rock 210. — Piran 145.
Rowardennan 483. — Catherine's 112. — Radegund's Abbey 16.
Rowland's Castle 67. — Chad 349. — Sampson 89.
Rowsley 366. 350. — Clears 201. — Saviour's Church 94.
Row Tor 151. — Cleer 144. — Sunday's Crag 392.
Rowtor Rocks 36G. — Clement 93. — Tudno's Church 283.
Roxburgh 456. - Columb 153. — Woollo's Church
Rozel 93. Road 144. xxxiii.
Ruabon 269. 307. — David's 214. xxxix. Saints' Kay 88.
Ruardean Hill 177. xliii. Salcombe 133
Ruberslaw 456. Head 216. Salford 333. 338.
Rugby 252. 349. - Denys 80. Salisbury 99. xliii. xlv.
Rugeley 347. - Devereux 190. xlvi. xlvii. xlviii.
Ruislip Park 248. — Donat's Castle 196. —
Plain 101.
RumhlingBridge (Dollar) — Erth 148. Salmstone Grange 23.
485. — Ethelbert's Camp 180. Salop 262.
(Uunkeld) 501. — Fagans 196. Saltaire 404.
Runcorn 345. 277. 332. — - Fillans 498. Saltash 142. 141.
Runnimede 222. — Genny's 156. Saltburn 421.
Rushen Abbey 343. — George's Hill 65. Saltford 113.
Eushmore 102. — Germans 142. 141. Saltley 183.
Rutherglen 476. — Germains 344. Saltney 269.
Ruthin 280. Gnwan's Head 211. Saltram House 142.
Ruthwell 462 212. Sampford Courtney 135.
Rydal 383. Helen's (Lancas.) 332. Sancreed 150.
— Hall 383. (I. of Wight) 69. Sand 509.
— Mount 383. — Helier's 91. Sandabay 163.
— Water 383. Herbert's Isle 393. Sandal Walton 402.
Ryde 68. Hilary 149. Sanday 511.
Rye. 42. Ives (Cornwall) 148. Sanderstead 45.
I! ylslone 401. — (Huntingdon) 363. Sandford 218.
 INDEK.
Sandford Mill 239. Semley 102. Sidlaw Hills 499.
Sandgate 14. Sennen 151. Sidmouth 103.
Sandling 13. 36. Senny, the 205. Silbury Hill 108.
Sandlodge 512. Settle 404. 374. Silchester 76.
Sandown 69. Sevenoaks 12. Silleiy Sands 164.
Sandringham 442. Seven Springs, the 182. Silloth 376.
Sandrock 71. Severn 121. 170. 182. 183. Silveidale 376.
Sandsend 421. — Tunnel Junction 121. Silver How 381.
Sandwich 25. 192. Simonsbath 168. 128.
Sandwick 391. Shaftesbury 102. Sinodun Hill 219.
Sandy 356. 363. Shakespeare Cliff 14. 16. Sittingbourne 22.
Sandy croft 278. Shalileet 73. Six Roads 95.
Sanquhar 463. Shalford 62. Skaig Bridge 509.
Santon 343. Shanklin 69. Skegness 4i:9.
Sark 90. Shap 374. Skell, the 423.
— , the 461. Shapinshay 511. Skelton 409. xlv.
Sam Helen 311. Shapwich Moss 126. Skelwith Force 386.
Sauchieburn 485. Sharpham 133. Skenfrith Castle 176.
Saundersfoot 201. 209. Sharpness 170. 122. 192. Sketty 201.
Savernake 106. 108. Shawford 90. Skiuo 506
Sawrey 380. Shawl 410. Skiddaw 399.
Saxmundham 447. Sheaf, the 359. Skipton 404.
Scafell 398. 401. Sheep's Tor 136. Skye 491.
Scale Force 395. Sheerness 20. 22. Skyrrid-Vawr 191.
Scalloway 512. Sheffield 359. 402. Slade 200.
Scandale Beck 383. Shelford 431. Slade Valley 161.
Scapa 511. Shenfield 442. Slapton Lea 133.
Scaraven 507. Shepherd's Well 32. —
Sands 133.
Scarba 488. Shepperton 222. Slateford 462.
Scarborough 419. Shepton Mallet 113. 123. Sleaford 429.
Scarf Gap Pass 395. 398 Sherborne (Dorset) 102. Slough 106.
Schiehallion 502. — (Warwick) 245. xl.liii. Slymbridge xliii.
Scilly Isles 152. Sherburn Hospital 414. Smailbolm Tower 456.
Scone Palace 499. Shere 62. Smaithwaite 396.
Scotch Dyke 455. Sheriffmuir 484. Srnallbrook 68.
Scotswood 419. Sherriny,ham 447. Smallmouth Caves 163.
Scourie 507. 509. Sherwood Dell 371. Smeeth 13.
Scratchbury 113. — Forest 361. Smethwick 259.
Scratchell's Bay 74. Shetland Islands 510. 512. Smithills Hall 339.
Screes 400. Shide 72. Smithy Houses 385.
Scremerston 417. Shields 416. Smoo Cave 510.
Scuir-na-Gillean 491. Shifnal 261. Snaefell 341.
Seacombe 331. Shillingsford 219. Snettisham 442. xlvii.
Seaford 43. Shin 507. Snodland
34.
Seamer Water 410. Shiplake 220. Snowdon
309. 319.
Sea Mills 121. Shipley 404. —
Ranger 315. 317.
Seascale 401. 377. Shipton 187. Soar, the 352.
Seathwaite 382. 398. Shire Combe Bay 199. Soho 259.
Seatoller 393. 397. Shirehampton 121. Sole Street 18.
Seaton 102. Shireoaks 360. Solihull 244.
Seat Sandal 334. 388. Shoeburyness 450. Solva 214.
Sedbergh 405. Shooter's Hill 33. Solway, the 463. 461.
Sedgemoor 127. Shoreham 52. liii. — Mo
s 455.

Sedles combe 42. Shorncliffe 14. Somerleyton Hall 448.

Segontium 292. Shorwell 62. 71. Somerset 109. 164.
Seiont, the 291. 314. Shotover Hill 239. Somersham 363.
Selborne 66. 76. Shotter Mill 65. Sompting 53. xxxvi.
Selby 405. xxxix. xlvii. Shottery 217. Sonning 220.
Selkirk 458. Shrewsbury 262. 180. 364. Sound of Mull 489.
Selling 25. Shrivenham 108. Sour Milk Force 387.
Selsea Bill 49. Shropshire 262. Southall 106.
S el worthy 128. — Union Canal 278. Southam de la Bere 182.
— Green 165. Shugborough Park 347. Southampton 80.
 .

536 INDEX.

Southampton Water 81. Steel Fell 384. Stratton 156.

95. _ Knotts 391. Streatham
Streatley 219.
45.
Southborough 38. Steephill Castle 71.
Stretton Hills 181.
South Downs 43. Steeple 399.
Southend 450. 20. Steinscholl Inn 491. Strome Ferry 494.
Southerndown 196. Stickle Tarn 386. Stromness 511.
Southfleet 18. Sticks Pass 397. Stronachlacher 483.
South Foreland 16. 25. Stilton 363. Stronsay 511.
_ Hinksey 239. Stirling 484. Strood 18.
— Minster 442. Stock Gill Force 385. Stroud 170.
— Molton 128. Stockley Bridge 398. Stroudwater, the 170.
Southpovt 331. Stockport 340. 349. 358 Strumble Head 216.
South Queensferry 495 Stockton-on-Tees 410. Struy 497.
475. Stogumber 128. Studley Boyal 423.
— Eonaldshay 511. Stoke 159. Starry 32.
Southsea 57. 58. —
Edith 190. Sty Head Pass 398.
South Shields 416. —
Fleming 133. Sudbury (Middlesex)
Southwell 430. xl. xlv —
-upon-Trent 346. 340. 249.
- (Sussex) 442.
xlviii Stokesay Castle 181.
Southwick 52. Stokes Bay 67. Sudeley Castle 182.
Southwold 447. Stoke Works 188. Sugarloaf 191. 206. 509.
South Wroxall 112. Stone 347. 340. Suilven 509.
Sow, the 346. —
Church 34. Sulby 341.
Spalding 361. 429. Stonebyres 480. , —
Glen 344.
Spanish Head 343. Stonehaven 498. Sulgrave 240.
Speech House 177. Stonehenge 101. Sullem Voe 512.
Speke Hall 331. lv. Stonehouse (Devon) 139. Sumborough Head 512.
Spennithorne 410. 141. Summerhouse Hill 1C6.
Spittal 323. —
(Gloucester) 170. 122. Sunbury 222.
Spithead 57. Stoneleigh Abbey 244. Sunderland 414.
Spittal 417. 241. 254. Surbiton 64. 222.
Spon Lane 260. Stonethwaite 888. 396. Surlingham Broad 447.
Sprinkling Tarn 398. Stoney Cross Plain 83. Surrey 60.
Stackpole 211. 212. Middleton 368. Sussex 59.
Stack Rocks 213. Stratford 251. Sutton Bingham 102.
Stacks, the 290. Stonyhurst 339. —
Bridge 363.
Staffa 489. Stornoway 494. —
Coldfield 259.
Stafford 261. 346. Storr Rock 491.
—
Courtney 219.
Staines 222. Storr's Point 380. —
at Hone 18.
Stainmoor Fells 411. Stour, the (Kent) 25. —
Park 259.
Stair 396. (Suffolk) 444. —
Place 62. 64.
Stake Pass 397. Stourbridge 260. 180. —
Pool 139.
— Works 18S. Stow (Cornwall) 156. —
Weaver 345.
Stalybridge 339. Stow (Edinburgh) 458. Swaffham 441.
Stamford 367. Stowe (nr. Lichfield) 349 Swainsthorpe 444.
— Bridge 424. —
(nr. Oxford) 217. Swale, the 410.
— Hill 149. Stow market 444. Swallow Falls 309.
Swanage 97.
Standlake 239. Strachur 482.
Stanford-le-Hope 450. Strands 400. Swanley 18.
Stanley 499. 500. Stranraer 464. Swansea 197.
— Gill 401. Strata Florida 208. 267. Bay 197. 198.
Swan Village 259.
Stanmer Park 47. 52. Stratford (Wilts) 101.
Stanton Drew 121. on-Avon 244. 245. Swathling 80.
— Harcourt 239. Strathbeg, the 509. Sway 96.
Sweetheart Abbey 463.
Stanwix 376. Strathcarron 506.
Staplehurst 13. Strathfieldsaye 76. Swimbridge 161. 128.
Stapleton Road 121. Strath fleet 507. Swindon 107. 108.
Star Cross 129. Strath Halladale 507. Swinside 396.
Start Point 133. Strathnaver 510. Swinton 402.
Staunton Lacey 180. Strathpeffer 506. Sychnant Pass 285.
Strathtyre 484. Sydenham 135.
Staverton 134.
Stavordale Priorv 113. Strath Ullie 507.
— Hill 7.

Strathy 510. Symington 461.

Stechford 254.
 INDEX. 537
Symond's Yat 175. Thame, the 219. Tongue Gill Force 388.
System 352. Thames, the 33. 34. 216. Topsham 105.
224. etc. Tor Bay 131.
Taff, the 193. 195. — Ditton 222. Torpantau 305.
Tain 506. — Head 170. Torquay 130.
Talargoch Lead Mines Thanet, Isle of 23. Torre 130.
279. Thetford 441. Torrent Walk, the 298.
Talgarth 204. Thirlmere 384. Torridge, the 160.
Talley Abbey 207. Thirlspot 384. Torrin 491.
Talgarnau 294. Thirlwall Castle 418. Torrington 105. 160.
Tal-y-bont 205. 265. Thirsk 409. 424. Tor Stepa, the 168.
Cafn 307. Thornbury 122. lvi. — Walks, the 162.
Llyn 265. 204. 266. Thorney 363. Tortworth Court 122.
Tamar, the 135. 142. Thornhill 463. Totland Bay 74.
Tame, the 188. 339. 349. Thornilee 458. Totnea 133.
Tamworth 188. 349. Thornton Abbey 426. Tottenham 431.
— Caatle 259. Junction 496. 500. Totton 95.
Tanat, the 264. Thorpe 372. Towceater 251.
Tantallon Castle 460. — Cloud 372. Towy, the 201. 205. 206.
Tan-y-Bwlch 314. Thrapaton 354. Towyn 266.
Grisiau 313. Thrapstow 252. Traeth Mawr, the 293.
Tanyralt 293. Threave Castle 463. 314.
Taplow 221. Three Bridges Junction Tram Inn 190.
Tarbert 487. 47. Tranent 460.
Tarbet 481. 483. • Cliffs Bay 200. Trawacoed 267.
Tarff, Ford of 602. •
Cocks Junction 203. Trawsfynydd 303.
Tarn Hows 381. Threlkeld 374. Trebarwith Sands 155.
Tarradale 605. Thurgarton 430. Treborth 291.
Tattershall 429. Thurso 508. Trecastle 205.
Tatton Park 277. — Kiver 607. Trefnant 280.
Taunton 127. Ticehurst 38. Trefriw 807.
— Deane 127. Tichborne House 76. Tregony 145.
Tavistock 130. 137. Tiddington 245. 248. Treherbert 194.
Tavy, the 137. TidesweU 368. Trelowarren Park 146.
Taw, the 105. 135. 159 etc. Tighnabruaich 488. Tremadoc 293.
Tawe, the 197. 205. Tilberthwaite Gill 382. Trematon Castle 142.
Tay, the 497. 498. — Glen 382. Trent, the 346.
Taymonth Castle 501. Tilbury 450. Trentiahoe 165.
Taynuilt 491. Tilford 66. Trent Junction 352.
Tebay 374. Tilgate Forest 47. Trereen 150.
Teddington 222. Till, the 456. Tre'r Ceiri 292.
Tees, the 410. 411. Tillietndlem 480. Tresco 152.
TeiO, the 202. 208. Tilt, Glen 602. Treahinish Isles 489.
Teign, the 129. Tintagel 154. Tresvennick Pillar 150.
Teigngrace 130. — Head 154. Tre Taliesin 265.
Teignmouth 129. Tingwall 512. Trevalga 155.
Teith, the 484. Tintern 176. xlvii. Trevenna 154.
Teme, the 180. 206. — Parva 176. Trevor 307.
Templecombe 102. 113. Tinto Hill 461. Tring 250.
126. Tirril 389. Trinity 474.
Temple Newsam 403. Tiabury 101. Troon 481.
Tenbury 180. Titchfield 59. Troasacha 484.
Tenby 209. Titchmarsh li. Troutbeck (nr. Amble-
Tenterden 43. Titterstone Clee 180. side)
389. 397.
Tent House 381. Tiverton 129. — Eeawick)
(nr.
Terrington 442. Tivetahall 444. 448. — Bridge 383. 374.
Test, the 81. Tiviot Dale 349. Trowbridge 113.
Tetbury 170. Tobermory 489. Trowell 354.
Tettenhall 261. Tomen-y-Mur 312. Truro 145.
Teviot, the 456. Tonacombe 156. Trusham 130.
Tewkesbury 182. xxxvii Tone, the 127. Tryfan 310.
xliv. Hi. Tong Church 261. — Junction 317.
Thame 217. Tongue 507. 510. Tryweryn, the 303.
538 INDEX.
Tnmmel, the 509. Ver, the 358. Waterbeach 439.
Tunbridge 13. Verney 217. Water Eaton 239.
— Wells 36. 52. Vespasian's Camp
101. Waterhead 380. 383.
Tutbury 188. 373. Via Gellia, the 365. Wateringbury 36.
Turiff 495. Victoria 144. Waterloo 331.
Tweed, the 417. 456. Vignals, the 180. Watermouth 163.
Tweedmouth 417. 456. Vindogladia 102. Water Orton 188.
Twerton 113. Virginia Water 65. Watersmeet, the 167.
Twickenham 222. Vitifer Tin Mine 138. Waterwinch 210.
Twizell 456. Watford 250.
Twll Twrw 267. Wadborough 183. Watling Street 21. 181.
Twm Shon Catti's Cave Wadebridge 136. 153. 251. 261.
206. Wadhurst 38. Watlingto'n 217. 363.
Two Bridges 130. 134. 138. Waenfawr 317. Watton 441.
— Pots 162. Wakefield
402. Watt's Dyke 268.
Twyford 80. 106. Walberswick 448. Waveney 449.
Twymyn, the 265. Waldendale 410. Waverley Abbey 66. 64.
Tyndrum 491. Wales 263. 277. etc. Wavertree 345.
Tyne, the (Hadd.) 460. Walkden 333. Wayland Wood
441.
Tyne, the (Northumber- Walkerburn 458. —
Smith's Cave 108.
land) 414. 419. Walkhampton 136. Weald of Kent 17.
Tynehead 458. Wall 349. ——
Sussex 59.
Tynemouth 416. Wallingford 107. 219. Wear, the 411.
Tyninghame House 459. Walls 512. —
Gifford 160.
Tynwald Hill 343. Wallsend 416. Weather Hill 391.
Tyn-y-coed 309. Walmer 25. Weatherlam 382.
groes 299. Walna Scar Pass 382. Weaver, the 345.
Tyvau Mawr 295. 297. 300. Walnut Tree Junction Wedmore 123.
194. Wednesbury 259.
Uddingston 461. Walpole St. Peters 442. Weedon 251.
Uffington 107. Walsall 259. Weir Head 142.
Uig 491. Walsingham 447. Welbeck Abbey 360.
Uleeby 426. Waltham Cross 431. Wellingborough 355. 252.
Ullapool 509. xxxviii. Wellington (Salop) 261.
Ullesthorpe 354. Walton 65. 346.
Ullscarf 388. —
Castle 122. —
(Somerset) 129.
Ullswater 389. —
Church 122. —
College 64.
Ulpha 382. —
on-the-Naze 443. Wells (Norfolk) 442.
Ulverscroft Priory 354. —
on-Thames 222. —
(Somerset) 112. 123.
Ulverston 377. Wansfell Pike 385. xliii. xlv. xlvi. xlvii.
Undercliff 70. Wantage 239. 107. xlviii. liv. lvi.
Union Mills 343. Wanthwaite Bridge 396. Welsh Harp 248.
Unst 512. Warberry Hill 132. Welshpool 263.
Upchurch 22. Ward Hill 511. Welton 251.
Upnor Castle 22. Wardour Castle 101. 268. Wem
Uppingham 354. Wareham 97. Wemyss Bay 481.
Upton 112. Wargrave 220. Wensley 410.
Ure, the 422. 410. Warkworth 417. Wensleydale 410.
Ushaw Rom. Ciith. Col. Warleigh Valley 112. Wensum, the 445. 446.
414. Warlingham 46. West Brighton 47. 51.
Usk 204. 176. 191. 205. Warmington 252. xlv. —
Bromwich 259.
Uttoxeter 346. 373. Warminster 113. Westbury 113.
Warrington 332. 277. West Calder 476.
Val des Vaux 95. Warwick 241. Cowes 74. —
Vale of St. John 396. Wasdale 398. —
Drayton 106.
— Royal 345. Head Inn 400. Westenhanger 13.
Valle Crucis Abbey 305. Wash, the 213. Westerfield 447.
Valley of Chers 248. Washford 128. Westerham 12.
— of Rocks 165. Wasperton 245. Westgate-on-Sea 23.
Vaurocque 90. Wast Water 400. Westham 52.
Vauxhall 64. 259. Watchet 128. West Hartlepool 410.
Venn Cross 128. Watcombe 132. —
Kirby 278. 322.
Ventnor 70. Watendlath 395. 400. Westmoors 97.
 INDEX. 539
Weston-super-Mare 126. Wigtown Bay 464. Woodstock 238.
Westray 510.
i

Wildersmouth Bay 161. — Road 239.

West Southampton 95. Wiley, the 99. Woofferton 180.
West Tarring 53. Willapark Point 155. Wookey 123.
Westward Ho 160. Willersley Castle 350. Wool 97.
West Wickham 46. Willesden 249. Wooler 416.
Wetheral 418. Willington 188. Woolston 82.
Wey, the 98. 222. 65. Williton 128. Woolwich 32.
Weybridge 222. 65. Willoughby 429. Wootton 68.
Weyhill 98. Wilmcote 244. — Bassett 108.
Weymouth 98. Wilmington Priory 44. — Court 243.
Whalley 339. Giant 43. — Hall 373.
Whalsay 512. Wilton 101. 113. Worcester 183. xlii. xlv.
Wharfe, the 404. Bridge 174. liv.
Wharncliffe Chase 359. Castle 174. — Beacon 190.
— Lodge 359. — House 101. Workington 377. 375.
Whatstandwell Bridge Wiltshire 108. Worksop 360.
350. Wimbledon 64. Manor 361.
Wheatley 217. Wimborne 97. liv. — Priory xxxix.
Whernside 405. Wincanton 113. Worle 126.
Whimple 103. Winchburgh 475. Worms Head 200.
Whinlatter Pass 396. Winchcombe 182. Worstead 447.
Whippingham 68. Winchelsea 42. xlvii. Worth 47. xxxv.
Whistow 252. Hi. Winchester 76. xxxvii. Worthing 47. 53.
Whitacre 188. xlix. 1. Hi. liv. Wortley 359.
Whitby 420. Winchfield 76. Wotton House 61.
Whitchurch (Devon) 136. Windermere 374. 378. Wrafton 161.
— (Hants) 98. 380. Wrath, Cape 510.
— (Oxon) 220. Windsor 221. Wrekin 261.
— (Salop) 268. 280. 346. Wirksworth 350. Wrexham 269. li.
— (Somerset) xliii. Wisbech 363. Wrington 122.
White Ball Tunnel 129. Wisham 461. Wrotham 31.
White Castle 171. Witham 126. 442. Wroxall 72.
Whitehaven 377. 375. — the 426. 429. , Wroxeter 263.
White Horse Hill 107. Withernsea 426. WroxhaU 244.
Whiteless Pike 396. Withington 190. Wroxhain 446.
White Moss 383. Witley 65. Wroxton Abbey 240.
— Pebble Bay 162. Witney 187. Wrynose Pass 382.
Whitesand Bay 143. Wiveliscombe 128. Wyche, the 190.
White Stones 164. Wnion, the 302. 297. Wychwood Forest 187.
Whitfield Gill Force 410. Woburn 250. 239.
Whithorn 464. — Abbey 250. 356. Wycombe 106.
Whitland 201. — Sands 376. Wye 13.
Whitley Abbey 254. Woking 65. — the 366. 174. 177. 180.
Whitlingham 446. 447. Wokingham 64. 192. 203.
Whitney 203. Wolds, the 424. Wykeham 420.
Whitstable 23. Wolferton 442. Wyken 254.
Whittington 268. Wollacombe Bay 162. Wylam 419.
Whitwell 71. Wollaton Hall 431. Wymondham 441. 447.
Wick 508. Wolseley Hall 347. Wyndcliff, the 176.
Wickhamford 187. Wolston 253. Wynnstay Park 268. 306.
Wickham Market 447. Wolstonbury Beacon 47, Wytham Abbey 239.
Wickwar 122. Wolvercote 238. Wythburn 884.
Widcombe 112. Wolverhampton 260. 346
Widdecombe - in - the - Wolverton 250. Yalding 36.
Moors 134. 138. Wooburn Green 217. Yanwath 389.
Widford 431. Wooda Bay 165. Yar, the 73.
Wideford Hill 511. Woodcuts 102. Yare, the 444. 448. 449.
Widnes 332. Woodgreen 364. Yarmouth (Norfolk) 448.
Wigan 333. 373. Woodhall Spa 429. — (Wight) 73.
Wight, Isle of 67. Woodhead 359. Yarnton 187.
Wigston 354. Woodhouse 360. Yarrow, the 458.
Wigtown 464. Woodside Ferry 323. Yate 121.
540 INDEX.

Yatton 122. Yewdale Crags 381. Ynrk 406. xxxiv. xlv.

Yaverland 69. 382. xlvii. xlviii. 1. Hi. lv.
Yell 512. Yes Tor 138. lvi.
Yelvertoft 253. Y Caer Bannau 205. Yorton 268.
Yelverton 136. — Fnel Fras 285. Yr Aran 317.
Yen, the 102. Garn 315. Yspytty-Cynfyn 267.
Yeoford 105. 135. Glyder Fach 310. Ystrad 194.
Yeovil 97. 102. Fawr 310. 316. Ystradffin 206.
Yewbarrow 399. — Wyddfa 309. 319. Ystwith, the 208. 267.

Leipsic: Printed by Breitkopf and Hartel.