Fabric Structures
Fabric Structures
Fabric Structures
Designs
M K BANSAL
Sr. scientific Officer & Astt. Professor
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
Organdy Seersuckers
Taffeta Plaids
Lawn Muslin
Voile Plain sheeting
Cotton Checks
Fancy effects produced with the plain weave:
2/2 Twill
Warp - Red
Weft - Blue
4x4 Matt
ELEMENT OF WOVEN DESIGN
KINDS OF DRAFTS :
The types of drafts can be divided in four categories :
• Straight Draft (Design & peg Plan is exactly same)
• Pointed Draft ( weaves which are symmetrical about the center)
• Skip Draft ( Used in weaving of very dense fabric )
• Mixed Draft ( Combination of two or more types of drafts )
Draft 1 :
1,2,3,4,5,5,6,7,7,8,8,1,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,8,1,2,3,4,
5,5,6,7,7,8,8,1,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,8
Draft 2 :
1,2,3,4,5,5,6,7,7,8,8,1,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,8,1,
8,7,6,5,5,4,3,3,2,2,1,1,1,8,8,7,7,6,5,5,4,3,2
Draft 3 :
1,2,3,4,5,5,6,7,7,8,8,1,1,1,8,8,7,7,6,5,5,4,3,2,1,
8,7,6,5,5,4,3,3,2,2,1,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,8,
Pick 1 : 1,2,4,8
Pick 2 : 1,2,3,5
Pick 3 : 2,3,4,6
Peg Plan :
Pick 4 : 3,4,5,7
Pick 5 : 4,5,6,8
Pick 6 : 1,5,6,7
Pick 7 : 2,6,7,8
Pick 8 : 1,3,7,8
Pick 9 : 1,2,4,8
Pick 10 : 1,2,3,5
Pick 11 : 2,3,4,6
Pick 12 : 3,4,5,7
Pick 13 : 4,5,6,8
Pick 14 : 1,5,6,7
Pick 15 : 2,6,7,8
Pick 16 : 1,3,7,8
Design, Draft & Peg plan
The term design
is used for
showing Weave
of the fabric Draft
(interlacement of
warp and weft)
on graph paper.
Draft is drawing
the warp threads
1 2 3 4
through heald
frames.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1112 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Peg Plan is order Peg plan
of lifting the Design
heald frames on
each successive
picks.
Plain weave derivative
Matt, basket or Hopsack weave:
Basket weave is made by extending the plain
weave both vertically and horizontally so that in
both directions there are two or more threads
working together in the same order. When the
groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is
termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.
Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns
together, inter- lacing as one yarn with the individual weft yarns,
or two or more weft yarns together, interlacing as one yarn with
individual warp yarns. The groups of yarns interlace in plain
weave order with the single yarns. Fabrics with a rib weave are
reversible unless one side is made the face by finishing or
printing.
3x3 4x4
warp warp
rib rib
Ornamenting warp rib:
2/1 Twill
(shifting warp wise)
Angle of inclination of twill weaves
Twill Angle:
2/2 Twill
Shifting warp wise
4/4 Right hand Twill 4/4 Left hand Twill
1 2 3 4 3 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Large zigzag of 2/2 Twill
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15161514 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Herringbone Twill -
These twills, also depend upon the reversal of the
direction to achieve the desired effect . The twill does not
come to a point where it changes the direction but instead
one twill line is said to cut into the other at the point of
reversal . The following design shows construction of 2 and 2
herringbone twill which runs from left to right for the desired
number of ends (8) where upon the reversal of direction takes
place by introducing on the 9th end, the mark which are exactly
opposite to those of the 8th end .
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213141516 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9101112
Herringbone twill of 2/2 Twill Herringbone twill of 3/3 Twill
(16x4) (12x6)
Herringbone Twill of 4/1,3/1 Twill (18x9)
(6x6) (8x8)
(4x4)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 10 9 8 7 6
5x5 Regular Twill 5/5 Reverse Twill
(10x10) (10x10)
Broken Twill - It is produced by breaking a regular twill.
1 2 3 4 1 2 4 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 6 5 4
2/2 Regular Twill 2/2 Broken Twill 3/3 Regular Twill 3/3 Broken Twill
at a break of 2 at a break of 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 4 3 5 6 8 7 2 1 4 3 6 5 8 7
4/4 Regular Twill 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2
1 2 3 6 5 4 7 8 1 4 3 2 5 6 7 2 1 8 3 4 5 8 7 6
4/4 Broken Twill at a Break of 3 (24x8)
1 2 3 4 5 2 1 8 7 63 4 5 6 7 4 3 2 18 5 6 7 8 1 6 5 4 3 2 7 8 12 3 8 7 6 5 4
A B
C
Diamond Twill -
Diamond weave is symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes
which can be produced with the aid of point draft and vertical waved
twilled peg-plan.
True diamond shapes converge most designs of this type can be
constructed economically on the pointed draft basis.
6 end sateen
In eight end irregular sateen 3
is counted to the right for four
picks; on the fifth pick the
count is equal to half the
number of threads in the
repeat i.e. 4 and then on
succeeding picks 3 is counted
8 end sateen (irregular) to the left.
In ten end irregular sateen 3
is counted to the right for
half the number of picks;
then 5 is counted and
afterwards on succeeding
picks 3 is counted to the
left.
8 end satin
derivative
8 end satin Buckskin weave
Crepe or oatmeal weave
4 repeats
Huckaback weave
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Huckaback weave
(18x18)
Mock Leno weaves
This weave produces effects similar to gauze
or leno in the fabric. These are mostly used in
light dress fabrics, blouses, aprons, etc. in
combination with other weaves. Two kinds of
structure are produced by the weave.
Double cloth having 3/2 twill on face & 5 end satin (move 2) on back
Stitched Double cloth
F8
F7
F6 B8
F5 F8
F4 B7
F3 F7
F2 B6
F1 F6
F1F2F3F4 F5F6 F7 F8 B5
F5
4/4 Twill
B4
F4
B8
B3
B7
F3
B6
B2
B5
F2
B4
B1
B3
F1
B2
F1B1 F2B2 F3B3 F4B4 F5B5 F6B6 F7B7 F8B8
B1
B1B2B3B4B5B6B7B8
4/4 Twill
Triple Cloth
F2 B2
F1
F1 F2 M2
M2 F2
M1
B1
M1 M2
M1
B2 F1
B1
B1 B2 F1 M1 B1 F2 M2 B2
F4
F3 B4
F2 M4
F1
F4
F1 F2 F3 F4
B3
M3
F3
M4
M3 B2
M2 M2
M1 F2
M1M2M3M4
B1
M1
B4 F1
B3 F1 M1 B1 F2 M2 B2 F3 M3 B3 F4 M4 B4
B2
B1
B1B2B43B4
ANALYSIS OF FABRIC AS PER DESIGN FROM A GIVEN SWATCH:
• Spun yarn & multiply yarns mostly used in warp & unsized single
ply and textured yarns used in weft.
•In case of single threads in both directions – sized yarns will
be warp (warp needs more breaking strength).