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    Welt and Pique

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    kriti

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    Welt and Pique

    Uploaded by

    kriti
    183 views16 pages

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    © © All Rights Reserved

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    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
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    Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
    183 views16 pages

    Welt and Pique

    Uploaded by

    kriti

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
    of 16

    Welt and pique

    Presented by:
    Kriti Gaur
    Faculty, Textile Technology
    Dr.B.R.A.Polytechnic College, Gwalior
    WELTS AND PIQUES:
    • Welts and piques are characterized by more or less pronounced ridges and furrows producing
    a series of ribs, welts or cords with a surface tissue of the plain calico weave, and extending
    in parallel lines transversely across the width of the fabric, i.e., in the direction of the weft
    threads.

    • The loom equipment necessary for manufacturing pique structures are a dobby loom with
    two warp beams (one for face warp under normal tension and another for stitching warp
    under heavier tension), a fast reed beat up mechanism and drop boxes ( 2 ¥ 1 or 2 ¥ 2), for
    wadded designs.

    • The tight stitching ends are interwoven into the plain face texture, with the result that the
    latter is pulled down and an indentation is formed on the surface. In order to increase the
    prominence of the unstitched portions of the cloth, wadding picks are normally inserted
    between the tight back stitching ends and the slack face fabric.

    • Pique fabrics are mainly manufactured entirely of cotton woven in the grey or natural state
    and then bleached. They are produced in a variety of different textures, according to the
    purpose for which they are intended
    Figure 9.1 shows the design of ordinary welt structures. Figs. A, C and E show the first stage in the construction
    of ordinary welt structures and Figs. 9.1 B, D and F show the corresponding final designs. The three different
    welt designs shown above are constructed on repeats of 6, 8 and 18 picks respectively. The ratio of the face to
    stitching warp is 2 : 1. The stitching ends are indicated by shaded squares. The ends are arranged in the order
    of one face, one stitching and one face, in each split of the reed. In the final designs B, D and F, the solid marks
    indicate the lifts of the tight stitching ends into the plain face texture on two consecutive picks.
    WEFT WADDED WELTS:

    In the case of welt structures wadding threads can be introduced weft way. The object using the
    wadding threads is to enhance the prominence of the horizontal cords, and to make the cloth
    heavier. The wadding weft is coarser than the ground weft and is inserted as a pair of picks at a
    place. This is achieved with looms provided with multiple shuttle boxes at one side only. The face
    ends are lifted over the wadding picks, while the stitching ends are left down. Sometimes, the
    same kind of weft is used for both the face and the wadding. In such cases looms with a single
    box at each side are employed, and in such cases, one wadding pick at a place may be inserted.

    Wadding picks are inserted only as extra picks and the take up motion is either rendered
    inoperative on wadding picks, or it is worked out in terms of the face picks only
    Fig. A, B and C show the design of weft wadded welts repeating on 8, 10 and 24 picks respectively. The stitching
    warp is indicated by the solid shade, the wadded thread by circled cross mark and the plain threads by cross mark.
    As can be seen from the designs, the stitching takes place on three picks. Figure D shows the weft way cross
    sectional view of design A.
    FAST BACK WELTS:
    In these types of structures the stitchings are interwoven in plain order with all, or some wadding picks. Whereas
    in ‘loose back’ type of structures (previous two types) the stitching ends are only lifted to form the indentations.
    In case of fast back welts, the reduction of the float length of the stitching ends on the back of the fabric helps
    to produce a more serviceable cloth less liable to accidental damage. Fig. 9.3 shows the design of a fast back
    welt structure.

    Figure A shows the design of a fast wadded welt structure


    and figure B, shows the weft welt cross section. The
    numbered threads represent the face and stitching warp.

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