Ostrich 1 Operation Moates Support

1/3/23, 2:57 PM Ostrich 1 Operation « Moates Support
The Wayback Machine - https://web.archive.org/web/20210613083053/http://support.moates.net/ostrich-o…

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Hardware Installation Guide
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Ostrich 1 Operation
Product Pages: OSTRICH, OSTRICH_2
Related Articles: OSTRICH, OSTRICH_2
https://web.archive.org/web/20210613083053/http://support.moates.net/ostrich-operation/ 1/5
Categories: All Articles, Troubleshooting
Ostrich
Here’s how you install the Ostrich: (Much of this will apply to the Ostrich 2 as well but pictures will
be different.)
1) Get on the website here in the ‘software and drivers’ section and download and unzip the ‘USB Drivers’
file. Remember where you put it.
2) Plug the Ostrich into the USB port of your PC, and point the operating system to the previously located
USB Driver directory and install the drivers. See the USB Driver Installation Guides here on
www.moates.net for further guidance in this regard.
3) Go into the drivers and set the COM port of the USB to Serial Converter (under Ports in the Device
Manager of the Windows Control Panel). Set it to COM3 or COM4. Override any warnings against ‘port in
use’ or any of that nonsense. Again, refer to the USB install guides for more info.
4) While in the port settings, set the latency to ‘1’ (default=16). This will speed it up dramatically.
5) Use TunerPro RT or a similar program to upload a binary to the Ostrich, and verify that it is uploaded
correctly.
6) Hook it up to the vehicle, and go to town. When installing the ribbon cable where the chip normally goes,
orient the red stripe so that it faces where the chip notch or arrow (pin #1) would normally face.
Note: If you have the car off, and the Ostrich is hooked up to the car’s ECU, then sometimes an
upload/verify won’t work right. Just turn the car on, or disconnect the Ostrich during the initial upload, and
everything should be fine.
There are jumpers inside the Ostrich, depending on how many pins / memory size you are emulating to.
The following pictures illustrate three different ones: 24, 28, and 32-pin. The 32-pin is only used for Ford
EEC-V applications right now.
24-pin (with associated pictures for an installation where the original chip was a 2732A in a 1227747-
style GM ECM):
Here’s the jumper settings, set for 24-pin emulation:
Here’s the socket that is soldered in the ECM. Note the direction of the notch (to the right) indicating where
the original chip pin #1 would go:
Here’s one way to do it, first right before insertion and then after it is snapped down in. Really it is preferable
to use a ZIF socket here. Notice the 24-pin socket that is stacked onto the bottom of the regular 28-pin
emulation cable. You can just use the 28-pin with the extra 4 pins hanging over as well. Note the red stripe
toward where the notch would normally go:
28-pin Installation using the G1 chip adapter, similar to that used in a 1986-92 TPI GM ECM:
Check out the jumper settings. Note that this is the configuration that the Ostrich is shipped with, and works
for the majority of the applications.
Note the direction of the notch on the chip, despite the direction of the ZIF handle. This is counter-intuitive
for many, and is relatively unique to the G1 / TPI-style adapter due to spatial constraints in the ECM
housing:
Now we take the chip out, and put the emulation cable in. Note the red stripe and how it is oriented
compared to the notch on the chip that was there before:
32-pin Jumper Settings, presently only used for EEC-V applications:
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1/3/23, 2:57 PM Ostrich 1 Operation « Moates Support

The Wayback Machine - https://web.archive.org/web/20210613083053/http://support.moates.net/ostrich-o…

Hardware Installation Guide

« Return to Moates Webstore

Categories: All Articles, Troubleshooting

32-pin Jumper Settings, presently only used for EEC-V applications:

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