This article was downloaded by: [Aston University]

On: 21 January 2014, At: 00:07

Publisher: Taylor & Francis
Informa Ltd Registered in England and Wales Registered Number: 1072954
Registered office: Mortimer House, 37-41 Mortimer Street, London W1T 3JH, UK

The Journal of The Textile

Institute
Publication details, including instructions for authors
and subscription information:
http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/tjti20

A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour

with Image Analysis. Part II: The
Effects of Fabric Structure and
Mechanical Properties on Fabric
Drape
a a
Y. J. Jeong & D. G. Phillips
a
Division of Wool Technology , CSIRO , Belmont,
Geelong, Victoria, Australia
Published online: 08 Apr 2009.

To cite this article: Y. J. Jeong & D. G. Phillips (1998) A Study of Fabric-drape

Behaviour with Image Analysis. Part II: The Effects of Fabric Structure and Mechanical
Properties on Fabric Drape, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 89:1, 70-79, DOI:
10.1080/00405009808658598

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405009808658598

PLEASE SCROLL DOWN FOR ARTICLE

Taylor & Francis makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of all the information
(the “Content”) contained in the publications on our platform. However, Taylor
& Francis, our agents, and our licensors make no representations or warranties
whatsoever as to the accuracy, completeness, or suitability for any purpose
of the Content. Any opinions and views expressed in this publication are the
opinions and views of the authors, and are not the views of or endorsed by
Taylor & Francis. The accuracy of the Content should not be relied upon and
should be independently verified with primary sources of information. Taylor and
Francis shall not be liable for any losses, actions, claims, proceedings, demands,
costs, expenses, damages, and other liabilities whatsoever or howsoever caused
arising directly or indirectly in connection with, in relation to or arising out of the
use of the Content.

This article may be used for research, teaching, and private study purposes.
Any substantial or systematic reproduction, redistribution, reselling, loan, sub-
 licensing, systematic supply, or distribution in any form to anyone is expressly
forbidden. Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at http://
www.tandfonline.com/page/terms-and-conditions
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014
 A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour with Image
Analysis
Part II: The Effects of Fahric Structure and
Mechanical Properties on Fabric Drape
Y.J. Jeong and D.G. Phillips
Division of Wool Technology, CSIRO, Belmont, Geelong, Victoria,
Australia
Received 9.10.1996 Received in revised version 29.5.1997 Accepted for publication
29.5.1997
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

The elTects uf tnbric structure and mechanical properties on the draping characteristics of
fabrics are studied with a systematically designed range of fabrics. The fabric cover factor
has a large effect on the fahric drape because of its effect on the hending rigidity. Yarn
interactions and crimp, which are determined hy the weave structure., also influence the
fahric drape. Fabric tightness influences the fahric drape by modifying the shear rigidity.
The effects of fabric structure and mechanical properties on the instability of fabric drape
are also described.
I

1. INTRODUCTION
Drape is an important property, which affects the aesthetics of fabrics used in garments.
Drape induced by gravitational force depends on the structural and mechanical properties
of the fabric. The importance of bending and shear properties on fabric drape has been
emphasised by Chu er at. (1950.1960), Cusick (1965). and Morooka and Niwa (1976).
Cusick (1965) and Morooka and Niwa (1976) derived regression equations relating drape
and bending and shear properties. Morooka and Niwa (1976) reported that tbe instability
of fabric drape was related to the bysteresis in bending and shear of the fabric. However,
there bas been little investigation of the relationship between fabric structure and fabric
drape. This paper presents the results of an examination of the effects of tbe construction
and mechanical properties of a series of square-sett wool fabrics on their drape
characteristics.

2. EXPERIMENTAL
2.1 Fabrics
An R50-tex/2 yam. witb 560 tums/m of Z singles twist and 560 tums/m of S folding twist,
was produced from 23i-\lm wool. Eight fabrics were woven by using two different cover
factors in four different weaves (plain; 2/2, 3/3, and 4/4 twills) and with tbe same yam in
warp and weft. The tbread density (ends and picks per cm) and cover factor are shown in
Table I. These fabrics cover a wide range of mechanical properties related to fabric drape.

2.2 Fabric and Yam Properties

Tbe mecbanical properties of the fabrics were measured with KES-F instrumentation
(Kawabata. 1975). Ail the fabric samples were relaxed according to Shaw's method
(Shaw. 1978) and tben blown for 30 s in a semi-decatiser to impiui minimal relaxation

70 J. Te.xt. Inst., 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile Institute

 A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour with Image Analysis. Part II

Table 1
Properties of Fabrics

Weave Plain 2/2 Twill 3/3 Twill 4/4 Twill

Sample A B C D E F G H
Ends/cm. Picks/cm 21.20 16. 16 28. 28 25. 25 34. 32 32. 29 38.37 31,29
Tightness* t.O87 0,848 1,038 0,923 1.041 0.962 1.082 0.866
Cover factor (CF-P) 0.81 0,69 0.95 0,90 0,99 0.97 1,00 0.97
Weight (g/m') 222 173 304 270 365 329 405 332
* The lighiness was defined by using the method described by Seyam and El-Shiekh (1994).
'The cover factor and CF-F were defined by using ihe method given by Grosberg (1969):
CF-I (warp) = 3,86 X 10 ' (ends/cm) Viex^CF-2 (weft) = 3.86x !0 ' x (picks/cm) Vte7 .
CF-F (area) = CF-1 + CF-2 - (CF- L x CF-2),
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

Table II
Mechanical Properties of Fabrics
Weave Plain 2/2 Twill 3/3 Twill 4/4 Twill
Sample A B C D E F G H
Bending rigidity (B.(iN m) 9,6 5,8 16.0 11,7 24.0 17.2 30.1 15.3
Bending hysteresis (2HB. |i,N) 2.8 1.5 6.6 4.8 11.2 9,0 15,9 8.8
Shearrigidity (G, N/ni) 97,1 36.8 93.5 59.5 106.0 63.7 109.0 42.2
Shear hysteresis (2HG5. N/m) 3.3 I.I 3.8 2.4 4.7 2.8 5.3 2.1

shrinkage to the samples before KES-F measurement. Warp and weft values, which were
of similar magnitude in the square-sett fabrics, were averaged. Table II shows the
mecbanical properties of the fabrics. Fabric drapability was measured 50 times for each
fabric witb an image-analysis system (Jeong. 1997) in a conditioned room controlled at
20°C, 65% r.b. The standard deviation of tbe drape-distance ratio (Jeong. 1997) for 50
measurements was used as tbe index for tbe instability of fabric drape. Tbe standard
deviation due to measurement error with image analysis was negligible (see Table II in
Part I of this series of papers (Jeong, 1997)).
The weave crimp of threads was measured in accordance with BS2863:1972 and
expressed as:
weave crimp (%) = 100 • (/ - p)/p (1)
wbere / is tbe straightened lengtb of a tbread (average of ten measurements) and p is tbe
projected length of the thread in tbe fabric.

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

3.1 Effect of Fabric Cover Factor
Apart from the weave type, an obvious variable in tbe structure of a fabric is its tightness,
or compactness, wbich depends on tbe weave and cover factor. The effect of cover factor
on tbe drapability of a fabric is sbown in Eig. 1. Instead of tbe drape coefficient, the drape-
distance ratio was used, since it is proportional to drapability (Jeong, 1997), and its
coefficient of variation on repeated measurements is lower than tbat of tbe drape coefficient.
For eight replicates, the critical value for tbe correlation coefficient at tbe 5% level of
significance is 0.61. This sbows tbat tbe correlation-coefficient value of-0.76 between

J. r<vf. hist. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile Institute 71

 Jeong and Philltps

cover factor and drape-distance ratio is significant. Although the correlation is not high
over ail fabrics, it is instructive to note in Fig. 1 that, for each fabric-weave pair, the
drapability decreases as the cover factor increases.
The inverse proportionality of drapability with cover factor in Fig. 1 occurs because the
bending rigidity generally increases as the cover factor increases, whereas the drapability
decreases as the bending rigidity increases, as shown in Fig. 2. It has been claimed that
the bending length ic) is a more meaningful parameter than the bending rigidity in
explaining fabric drape (Postle and Postle. 1992). since by defmition it includes the effect
of weight, that is. BIw = f\ where B is the fabric bending rigidity and w is the fabric
weight per unit area. For the fabrics used in this trial, an increase in weight was associated
with an increase in bending rigidity. Thus the correlation coefficient (-0.91) between
drape-distance ratio and bending length was similar to the value (-0.86) calculated with
bending rigidity.
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

.66 .72 .78 .84 .90 96 1,02 1.08

Cover bctor

Effect of fabric cover factor on the drape-distance ratio: • plain; D 2/2 twill: • 3/3 twill; V4/4 twill

12-

0 5 10 15 20 25
Bending ngidity((iNm)

Fig. 2 Effecl of bending rigidity on the drape-distance ratio: • ptain; D 2/2 twilt; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

"^2 J. Te.xt. Inst., 1998. 89 Part I. No. I O Textile Institute

 A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour with Image Analysis, Part II

3.2 Yarn Interactions

It has been reported that cover factor (or fabric weight) rather than fabric weave is the
dominant factor in determining bending rigidity (Wemyss and De Boos, 1991). If the
influence of weave were small, the fabric drapability wouid he similar for different fabric
weaves of the same cover factor. But Fig, I shows a large difference in drapability hetween
the 3/3 twill and the 4/4 twill (Fabrics F and H) at the same cover factor (0.97), although
the bending rigidity is similar in the two fabrics. This difference is presumably due to the
different yam interactions in the different weaves. The yam interactions in a 3/3 twill are
higher than those in a 4/4 twill (Wemyss and De Boos, 1991). so the fabrics have different
shear rigidities, as shown in Table II. Fig. 3 shows the effect of shear rigidity on the
drapability. Thus it follows that the 4/4-twill fabric, with the smaller shear rigidity, has a
higher drapability than the 3/3-twill fabric.
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120

Shear rigidity(N/m)

Fig. 3 Effect of shearrigidityon the drape-distance ratio: • plain; D 2/2 twill; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

By comparison, for Fabrics E and G (with cover factors 0.99 and 1.0, respectively), the
effect of yam interactions on drape appears to be less because the shear rigidity is similar.
In this case, the difference in drape is probably due to the difference in bending rigidity.
These results confirm previous work (Cusick 1965; Morooka and Niwa, 1976) that
drapability is determined by tbe combined effects of bending and shear rigidities. Generally,
bending rigidity is not independent of shear rigidity. In the present study, the correlation
coefficient between these two quantities is 0.663, which is statistically significant. Thus,
to determine the effect of bending and shear rigidities on drapability, linear regression
was performed with bending and shear rigidities, both separately and combined, as
predictors of drapability. Equations (2)-(4) show the regression results with the coefficient
of determination (r^): '-
drape-distance ratio = 32.6 - 0.59 * B ( r = 73.0%) (2)
drape-distance ratio = 35.1 - 0.16 * G ( r = 71.4%) • (3)
drape-distance ratio = 36.0 - 0.36 * B - 0.09 * G ( r = 86.8%) (4)
where B and G are the bending and shear rigidities, respectively. •'

J. Text. Inst.. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile Institute 73

 and Phillips

Table Ul
SnnmrSquures of Regression Models
Regression Model Bending Rigidity Shear Rigidity Bending Rigidity
and Shear Rigidity
Regression sum of square-- 149.45 14fi,ll3 177.70

Table III shows the sum of squares for each regression model. To deduce the individual
contributions of bending and shear rigiditie.s on drapability. Ihe regression sum of squares
was decomposed as shown in Fig. 4. The amount of intersection of bending and shear
rigidities is consistent with tbe correlation coefficient (0.663) between the bending and
shear rigidities.

Bending rigidity Shear rigidrty

Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

Pig. 4 Venn diagram for regression sum of squares

3.3 Weave Crimp

The amount of thread or weave crimp may be controlled in two ways, one being by the
finishing processes involved and the other by the choice of fabric structure at the design
stage, such as the weave and sett. In the fornier case. Ihe change in crimp accompanies an
increase or decrease in the internal force between threads or fibres and in the ihread
density. The extent of the change is dependent on the finishing processes and influences
the mechanical properties. For example, milling processes generally increase yarn
interactions and the internal forces, whereas dyeing proces.ses reduce interactions and the
internal forces. Although crimp increases in both cases, the effect on the mechanical
properties is quite different. Thus the influence of crimp on mechanical properties is
dependent on tbe finishing processes used. It goes beyond the purpose of thi.s study to
investigate the crimp effect on drapability caused by finishing processes.
However, for fabric structure, the role of thread crimp on bending rigidity was predicted
by Ghosh et al. (1987). According to their study, at low crimp levels, an increase in crimp
aione reduces the fabric bending rigidity. However, at some point, an tncrea.se in crimp is
offset by an increase in the contact between warp and weft tbreads. This causes an increase
in fabric bending rigidity when the effect of thread contact is generally more pronounced.
This effect is clearly shown in Fig. 5. For each weave type, the bending rigidity increases
with crimp, refiecling the high sett. Presumably, the changes in other factors (i.e. thread
interactions and the contact area between threads) due to the increased thread density
overwhelm the initial effect of crimp on the bending rigidity. If crimp could be increa.sed
without influencing the other factors of the fabric structure (e.g. by dyeing and finishing),
it would result in a decrease in fabric bending rigidity that would increase the fabric
drapability.

74 J. Te.xt. InsL. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © lextile Institute

 A Study of Fahric-drape Behaviour with Image Analysis. Part II

f = -0.83
30- V

| 2 5 -
A y
1
^ 20 -

ra 15 -

1 10-
5 -

1 ; 1 1 1 1

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
Crimp(%)
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

Fig.5 Effect of crimp on the bending rigidity: • plain; D 2/2 twill; A 3/3 twill: V 4/4 twill

3.4 Tightness
As mentioned in Section 3.1, tightness is an important variable in fabric structure, and its
definition includes the concepts of cover factor and weave factor (Seyam
and El-Shiekh. 1994) as shown in Equations (5) and (6). Cover factor is not a reasonable
indication of Ihe tightness of the weave. Even though the higher the cover factor, the
closer the threads are together, it is possible to have fabrics with equa! cover factors that
are not equally tightly woven (Newton, 1995). This indicates that fabrics with similar
cover factors may have different mechanical properties, and this may result in differences
in drapability:
thread density x {[{(' - /);: f//4] + 2id\
wnip lit well
(5)

(end density + pick density)

[T +r,) (6)

where e is the number ot" threads in the weave repeat, / is the number of weave intersections
per repeat, and d is the thread diameter.
In our study, the tightness defined by Seyam and El-Shiekh (1994) was used. Tightness
related well to shear rigidity as shown in Fig. 6, but interestingly a significant result was
not found for the relationship between tightness and bending rigidity. Thus the large
difference in the shear rigidity of fabrics with a small difference in bending rigidity is
thought to be due to the difference in tightness (i.e. Fabrics E and F in Table 11). Accordingly,
it follows that the higher the tightness, the lower is the drapability as shown in Fig. 7.

3.5 Mechanical Properties Influencing Drape Instability

The effect of mechanical properties on the instability of fabric drape (i.e. the variation in
drape measurements) was first studied by Morooka and Niwa (1976), who reported that
bending hysteresis (2HB) and shear hysteresis (2HG) measured on the KES-F equipment
inlluenced the instability of fabric drape. However, fabric hysteresis is strongly coupled
with bending and shear rigidities (Kawabata, 1975). For example, in the present study

Text. Inst.. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile In.stilim 75

 Jeong and Phlllipx

120
r=0.97
105

30
80 .85 .90 .95 1,00 1,05 1.10
Tightness
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

Fig. 6 Effect of tightness on the shear rigidity: • plain; D 2/2 twill; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

36

33 r = -0.80

^ 30

S 27
2
S 24

I
% 21
I 18
o
15

12
I I I I 1
80 85 .90 ,95 tOO 1,05 1.10
Tightness

Fig.7 Effect of [ighlness on the drape-distance ratio: • plain; D 2/2 twill; • 3/3 twill; V 4/4 iwill

with eigbt square-sett fabrics, the correlation coefficients between bending rigidity and
bending hysteresis and between shear rigidity and shear hysteresis were 0.98 and 0.94.
respectively. It is therefore difticuil to relate hysteresis of the mechanical properties to
drape instability. In our study, the correlation coefficient between 2HB and the standard
deviation of the drape-distance ratio was 0.41. and the correlation coefficient between
2HG and the standard deviation of the drape-distance ratio was 0.17. both of which were
statistically insignificant.
Instead of the hysteresis values, other parameters were chosen to study the influence of
mechanical properties on the drape instability. These were residual bending curvature
(RB expressed in m ' ) and residual shear angle (RS expressed in degrees), which were
defined by Australian Wool Textile Objective Measurement Executive Committee (1984),
as follows:

x50 (7)

76 J. Text. Inst.. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile Institute

 A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour with Image Analysis. Part II

(deg)
G
The residual bending curvature (RB) represents the amount of unrecovered bending
strain left in a fabric after a bending-recovery cycle, and likewise the residual shear angle
(RS) represents a measurement of the extent to which a fabric recovers from shear
deformation.
The instability of fabric drape was influenced by both RB and RS as shown in Figures 8
and 9. The correlation coefficients are statistically significant. Both RB and RS are
qualitative measures of internal-friction effects in the fabric. Thus it is hypothesised that,
on relaxing after a mechanical deformation, as occurs in the repeated drape test, a fabric
with small values of RB and RS will be more likely to return to an initial state close to its
original state than a fabric with larger values of RB and RS. As mentioned in Part I
(Jeong, 1997), a different initial state of the fabric would be expected to cause a variation
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

in drape values.
1.6

10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
Residual bending curvatijre(m-')

Fig. 8 Erfeci of residual bending curvalure on the standard deviation of drape-distance ratio (DR): • plain;
D 2/2 iwill; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

10 12 14 16 18
Residual shear(degree)

Fig. 9 Effect of residual shear angle on the standard deviation of drape-distance ratio (DR): • plain;
D 2/2 twill; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

./. Te\!. Inst.. 1998. 89 Part I. No. I © Textile Insiiiuie 11

 Jenng and Phillips

3.6 Effect of Cover Factor on Instability

The eflect of fabric structure on mechanical properties influences the instability of fabric
drape. Fig. 10 shows that the instability increases as the cover factor increases. As discussed
in Section 3.5. this result is consistent with the effect of cover factor on the residual
bending curvature (RB) as shown in Fig. 11. However, interestingly, a significant correlation
was not obtained for the relationship between the cover factor and Ihe residual shear angle
(RS). Further studies involving RB. RS, and cover factor are needed to establish the
relationship between these factors.
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

I t r
.65 .70 75 .80 .85 .90 ,95 1.00 1.05
Cover factor

Fig. 10 Effect of cover factor on the standard deviation of drape-distance ratio (DR): • plain; D 2/2 iwilt;
A3/3twiU;V4/4twill

.3U -

r = 0.90 "7
f~ 27 - A V

1 24-
X *
B 21 - /D •
/

^ 15 -
1
12 -
"1 T 1 1

.65 .70 .75 .80 .85 .90 95 1.00 1.05

Cover factOf

Fig. 11 Effect of cover factor on residual tending curvature: • plain; D 2/2 iwill; A 3/3 twill; V 4/4 twill

4. CONCLUSION
The effects of the stmcture and mechanical properties of a series of square-sett fabrics on
their drape characteristics have been studied. The fabric cover factor influenced the
drapability by increasing the fabric bending rigidity. However, fabrics with different weaves

78 7 Text. Inst.. 1998. 89 Part 1. No. I © Textile Instilute

 A Study of Fabric-drape Behaviour with Image Analysis. Part II

but similar cover factors showed differences in drapability. This was due to tbe influence
of weave structure on the thread interactions and the related shear properties of the fabrics.
Furthermore, fabric drapability was related to thread or weave crimp, which changed with
the fabric stmcture. Fabric tightness influenced the fabric drape by increasing the shear
rigidity. A significant relationship between tightness and bending rigidity was not found.
The effects of fabric structure and mechanical properties on drape instability were also
investigated. The residual bending curvature and residual shear angle were introduced to
examine the instability of fabric drape instead of the bending and shear hysteresis of the
KES-F measurement, which are strongly connected with bending and shear rigidities. It
has been shown that the instability of fabric drape increases as the residual bending curvature
and residual shear angle increase. Cover factor increased drape instability by increasing
the residual bending curvature.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Downloaded by [Aston University] at 00:07 21 January 2014

This work was performed under a grant from the Australian Wool Research and Promotional
Organisation and Korea Science and Engineering Foundation. Their assistance is gratefully
acknowledged. We would also like to thank Dr N.G. Ly, Dr A.G. De Boos, and
A.M. Wemyss for help during the course of this work and V. Lewis for statistical advice.

REFERENCES
Australian Wool Textile Objective Measurement Executive Committee, 1984. Test Procedures for Objective
Evaluation of Woven Apparel Fabrics - L^w Stress Mccliiinical. Surface, and Dimensional Properties.
Chu, C.C., Cumming, C.L., and Teixeira, N.A., 1950. Mechanics of Elastic Perfomiance of Textile Materials.
Part V: Factors Affecting the Drape of Fabrics-The Development of a Drape Meter. Text. Res. 7., 20, 539-548.
Chu. C.C.. Platt. M.M.. and Hamburger. W.J., I960. Investigation of the Factors Affecting the Drapability ol Fabrics.
Text. Res. J.. 30, 66-^7.
Cusick. G.E., 1965. The Dependence of Fabric Drape on Bending and Shear Stiffness./ Text. Inst., 56, 596-606,
Ghosh. T.K.. Batra. S.K., and Barker, K.L., 1990. The Bending Behaviour of Plain-woven Fabrics. Part II: The
Caseof Linear Thread bending Behaviour./ Text. Inst.. SI. 255-271.
Grosberg, P., 1969. Tbe Geometric Properties of Plain Cloths. In Structural Meclianics of Fibers, Yanus and Fabrics.
Vol. 1. (by J.W.S. Hearle, P. Grosberg. ;uid S. Backer), Wiley-Interscience. New York. NY. USA, pp.323-338.
Jeong, Y.J., 1997. A Study of Fabric-drape Bebaviour with Image Analysis. Part I: Measurement. Characterisation,
and Instability. / Text. Inst..S9. Part I. 59-69.
Kawabuta, S., 1975. The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation, Textile Machinery Society of Japan,
Osaka.Japan.
Morocka. H., and Niwa. M., 1976. Relation between Drape Coefficient and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics. 7.
lext. Mach. So<-. .lapan. 22, 67-73.
Newton, A.. ! 995. The Comparison of Woven Fabrics by Reference to Their Tightness./ Text. Inst.. 86, 232-240.
Postle, J.R., and Postle. R.. 1992. Fabric Bending and Drape Using Objective Measurement. Int. J. Clothing Sci.
Techno!., 4, 7-\5.
Seyam, A., and El-Shiekh. A., 1994. Mechanics of Woven Fabrics. Part IV: Critical Review of Fabric Degree of
Tightness and Its Applications. Text. Res. J.. 64.653-662.
Shaw. T., 1978. The Dimensional Stability of Woven Wool Fabrics. Woo/Sci. Rev., No. 55,43.
Wemysi. A.M., and De Boos, A.G.. 1991. Effects of Structure and Finishing on the Mechanical and Dimensional
Properties of Wool Fabrics. Text. Res. J.. 61, 247-252.

J. Tf\i. ln.st.. 1998, 89 Part I. No. I O Te.Mile Instilute 79