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Indoor Furniture
Dave Campbell
Editorial Content Chief, WOOD magazine

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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®
http://www.woodonline.com

young
artist’s easel
two sides
double
the fun

W
hat is your young artist’s favorite medium: crayons, paint, or chalk? With a chalkboard on one side
and cleats to secure paper on the other, this fun-filled project helps bring out the creativity in any child.
And don’t worry about storing large sheets of paper. A 24"-wide, 150'-long roll provides a quick-change
steady supply. (See Source on page 9.)

DP-00478 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2005 Page 1 of 9

 AT A G L A N C E ‹" round-over 1 LEG ASSEMBLY PARTS
 This project suits kids age 3–7
years.
 For the board feet of lumber and
other items needed to build the 1"
easel, see page 9. Å"
2"
Build two leg assemblies
1Cut the legs (A) and rails (B) to
the sizes listed on the Materials
. Then install a dado blade in your
List
¸"
shank hole,
2" dado countersunk
tablesaw and form half-lap joints by ›" deep
cutting 2" dadoes ›" deep in the legs,
where dimensioned on Drawing 1, and D
2" rabbets ›" deep in the ends of the
rails, where shown on Drawing 2. Now 24‹" 28‹"
cut the 18° bevels at the bottom ends
of the legs, orienting them as shown on
Drawing 1.

2 Chuck a ‹" round-over bit into

your table-mounted router and rout
the top front end of each leg (A), where 26‡"
‹" round-
overs
shown on Drawing 1. Then rout round-
overs along the top front edges of the
upper rails (B) and the bottom front
edges of the lower rails (B), where A
shown on Drawing 2. 1"
3 Arrange the legs (A) in pairs with
the dadoes facing each other, and
then place the pairs side by side. Now, 44" CLEAT
on the outside edge of each leg, mark 2" dado
the centers of the holes just below the ›" deep
lower dadoes, where dimensioned on
Drawing 1. Use your drill press to drill
25⁄64" holes fl" deep.
2"
4 Apply glue and assemble the leg
(A) and rail (B) frames, as shown
in Photo A. With the glue dry, sand the
joints smooth. LEG
5 Chuck a ›" rabbet bit into your
handheld router. Adjust the bit to
match the thickness of the melamine-
⁄ " hole
25 64

fl" deep
faced fiberboard used for the panels on outside
(C), and rout a rabbet along the front edges of
inside edges of each frame (A/B), legs
where shown on Drawing 2. Finish-
sand the frames.

6 Check the dimensions of the

rabbeted openings, and cut the
panels (C) to size. Bandsaw and sand ‡"
the panel corners to match the rounded
corners of the rabbeted openings. For
another way to form the rounded panel
corners, see the Shop Tip on page 8.

7 Paint one panel (C) with chalkboard

paint and let it dry. (We used Rust-
Oleum Specialty Chalk Board paint.)
Then glue and clamp the panels into the 18° bevel
rabbeted openings in the leg frames.

Page 2 of 9
 ‹" round-overs
2" strap hinge
D
‹" round-over ¸" shank hole,
2¤" countersunk
‹" round-over
B
28‹" 25" Unpainted panel

B C #10 SAE flat washers

C A
A
22" #8 x 1" F.H.
22" wood screw
2" rabbets ›" deep
A ›" rabbet
A
‡" hole ‹" deep ‹" deep, routed 28‹"
after assembly D

‹-20 press-in F B E
threaded insert H
fi" dado 3"
#8 x 1‹" F.H. I ‹" deep
fi" rabbet B
wood screw ‹" deep F
G 28ˇ" F
‹" hole ‹-20 press-in
3" threaded insert H
28Å"
E 25 64
⁄ " hole
27fl" ‹" grooves
fl" deep
‹-20 x 1‹" R.H. ‹" deep
machine screw ‹" round-over ‹" from
18° bevel bottom edge

2 EXPLODED VIEW
18° bevel 2"

Page 3 of 9
Note: Your retailer may stock ‹" Now add a pair of trays Drawing 2. Now finish-sand the ends
fiberboard faced with melamine on one
or both sides. Glue fiberboard faced
with melamine on one side with regular
1 From fi" stock, cut the easel ends
(E) and fronts and backs (F) to
size. Then cut dadoes and rabbets ‹"
(E) and fronts and backs, and glue
and clamp the tray assembly together.
Make sure it dries square and flat. From
woodworking glue. Adhere fiberboard deep and drill ‹" and ‡" holes ‹" ‡"-diameter hardwood dowel, cut the
faced with melamine on both sides with deep in the ends, where dimensioned rod (I) to length.
construction adhesive. on Drawing 3. Now on one of the ends,

8 Lay the leg assemblies facedown

on your workbench with the top
form a slot from the ‡" hole to the top
edge of the part, as shown in Photo C.
Apply finish and assemble
1sandRemove the hinges, examine all
ends abutting. Now screw the hinges in
place, as shown in Photo B. 2 Cut the turnbutton (G) to size, and
drill a countersunk shank hole,
parts and assemblies, and finish-
where needed. Mask the panels (C)

9 From fi" stock, cut the cleats (D)

to size. Drill centered countersunk
screw holes, where dimensioned on
where shown on Drawing 3. Position
the turnbutton over the slot in the end
(E), and using the shank hole as a guide,
and tray bottoms (H), and apply a clear
finish. (We sprayed on three coats of
water-based satin polyurethane, sanding
Drawing 1. Then rout ‹" round-overs drill a pilot hole into the top edge of the between coats with 220-grit sandpaper.)
along the front ends and edges. Finish-
sand the cleats.
end. Finish-sand the turnbutton.

3 Cut the bottoms (H) to size. Then

cut grooves for the bottoms in the
2 Using a clamp, press threaded
inserts into the 25⁄64" holes in the
outside edges of the legs (A), where
fronts and backs (F), where shown on shown on Drawing 2.

SQUEEZE HALF-LAPS TWO WAYS

B B
First: clamp lightly
Second: pull together

Third: tighten snugly

A
Lightly clamping the half-laps, draw the legs (A) together with bar clamps. Then tighten the clamps on the
half-laps.

Page 4 of 9
 B

2" strap hinge

A

B
SURE-FIRE HINGE ALIGNMENT
Align the leg assemblies and clamp them together. Center the hinge knuckles
on the joint line, drill pilot holes, and drive the screws.

‡" Forstner bit

Centerline

‡" hole
‹" deep fi" spacer

B
EXTEND A HOLE TO FORM A SLOT
Place fi" spacers betweeen the end (E) and the fence, and drill an overlapping
hole on the centerline. Clean up the sides with a chisel.

Page 5 of 9
3panelClamp the cleats (D) into place on
the leg assembly with the unpainted
(C), where shown on Drawing 2.
‹-20×1‹" R.H. machine screw
Using the shank holes as guides, drill
pilot holes into the legs (A). Remove
the clamps, insert flat washers between
the cleats and legs, and screw the cleats
into place.

4 Rejoin the leg assemblies with the

strap hinges and attach the tray
assembly, as shown in Photo D. Then
slide the rod (I) into the paper roll core,
insert one end of the rod into the ‡"
hole in one end (E), and drop the other
end of the rod into the slot in the other
end. Secure the rod with the turnbutton.
Feed the paper up through the gap
between the top rails (B) and then E
down under the upper and lower cleats
(D). With a drawing complete, separate A
it from the roll, as shown in Photos E
and F. Now fill the trays with a supply
of paint, crayons, and chalk, and watch
your budding artist bloom. ¿
D
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
INSTALLING THE TRAYS
Project design: Kevin Boyle Insert the leg assembly between the trays, align the threaded inserts
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
with the end (E) holes, and drive the machine screws.
Graphic design: Lorna Johnson

CHANGING THE PAPER STARTING A FRESH SHEET

Top cleat

Bottom cleat

E F
Pull the paper down until the top of the drawing is The drawing is ready to hang. To get another sheet
below the top cleat (D). Then cut the drawing from ready, simply pull down the cut end of the roll and slip
the roll with scissors. it under the bottom cleat.

Page 6 of 9
 ¸" shank hole, countersunk 13Å"
G 12Å"
6¤" ‹" hole 7⁄64" pilot hole ‡" deep
4fi" fl" fi" 4fi"
1fi"
3"
E
‡"
fi" dado ‡" slot ‹" deep on one part E ‹" hole fi" dado
‹" deep ‡" hole ‹" deep on the other part E ‹" deep
27fl"
fi" rabbet ‹" deep

3 TRAY ENDS
(Inside face shown)

Page 7 of 9
SHOP TIP
Routing perfect-radius panel corners
When routing a rabbet for a back or the corners show, as on the panels into your table-mounted router. Set
panel in an assembled case or frame, (C) in this project, sanding doesn’t up the router table, as shown below
the rabbet bit leaves rounded corners. always give satisfactory results. left. The tall miter-gauge extension
left
Instead of chiseling the corners For perfect corners, measure the steadies the panel and prevents
square, you can saw and sand the radius of the rabbet bit and chuck chip-out. Then rout the panel
back or panel corners round. When a matching-radius round-over bit corners as shown below.
below

Î" gap

Auxiliary miter-gauge
extension

Round-over bit pilot

bearing set flush
with fence

Panel tight against the fence

Push panel C
through the Perfect-radius corner
bit with
the miter
gauge.

Page 8 of 9
 Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Leg assemblies T W L Matl. Qty.
A legs ‡" 2" 44" O 4
B rails ‡" 2" 28‹" O 4
C panels ‹" 22" 25" MF 2
D cleats fi" 1" 28‹" O 2
Tray assembly
E ends fi" 3" 27fl" O 2
F fronts and backs fi" 3" 28Å" O 4
G turnbutton fi" fi" 3" O 1
H bottoms ‹" 4fi" 28ˇ" MF 2
‡"
I rod - 28‡" HD 1
diam.

Materials key: O–oak, MF–melamine-faced fiberboard,

HD–hardwood dowel.
Supplies: #8×1" and #8×1‹" flathead wood screws,
2" strap hinges with screws, #10 SAE flat washers, ‹-20
press-in threaded inserts, ‹-20×1‹" roundhead machine
screws, chalkboard paint.
Blades and bits: Stack dado set, ‡" Forstner bit, ‹" round-
over and ›" rabbet router bits.
Source
Paper. 24"×150' paper roll no. 11501-1120, $14.99.
Dick Blick. Call 800/828-4548, or go to dickblick.com.
Cutting Diagram

A B
A
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
B B
‡ x 3fi x 60" Oak (1.7 bd. ft.)

E F G
F
D D
fi x 9‹ x 96" Oak (6.7 bd. ft.)

I
‡" diam. x 36" Hardwood dowel

The purchase of these plans does not

transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
H H neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
‹ x 48 x 48" Melamine-faced fiberboard
Page 9 of 9
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