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ready-to-serve
wine cabinet Keep your favorite wines, stemware,
and serving accessories handy
in this stylish unit.

D
on’t let the sophisticated look of this project fool you. With straightforward case and drawer construction, a full-size pattern
for forming the feet, and easy-to-shape wineglass holders, you’ll complete it in a jiffy and have plenty of reasons to toast
your success.

DP-00517 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2006 Page 1 of 13


Start with the case
1 From ‡" cherry plywood, cut the
sides (A), sub-top and shelf (B), and
and clamp the trim to the bottom, noting
that the nonmitered back ends of the
side trim overhang the bottom ‹". After
3thePosition the case with the back
down. Using the spacer to maintain
correct distance between the stiles
bottom (C) to the sizes listed in the the glue dries, rout a ›" round-over (D) at the bottom, clamp (do not glue)
Materials List. along the top and bottom edges of the the bottom/trim assembly (C/E/F) and

2 Cut a ‡" dado and rabbet ›" deep


across the inside face of each side
(A), where dimensioned on Drawing 1,
trim. Sand the assembly smooth.

7 From ‡"-thick edge-joined cherry,


cut the top (G) to size. Then rout ›"
spacer to the case, as shown in Photo B.
Then drill mounting holes through the
bottom (C) and centered into the sides
to fit the sub-top and shelf (B). Then, round-overs along the top and bottom (A), where shown on Drawing 1. Drive
on the same face of each side, cut a ‹" edges on the ends and front to create a the #8×2" flathead wood screws.
rabbet ›" deep along the back edge to
house the plywood back (I).
bullnose profile. Sand the top smooth.
4 To mount the top (G), position it
with the bottom faceup on your

3 From ‡"-thick cherry, cut the stiles (D)


to size. Then rout ‹" chamfers, stopped
2" from the ends, along both edges on the
Now glue the case together
1thatDry-assemble the sides/stiles (A/D)
and sub-top and shelf (B), and verify
workbench. Then place the case, with the
sub-top (B) down, on the top, centered
side-to-side and flush at the back. Mark
front faces of the stiles, where shown. For the parts fit together correctly. the centers of the mounting holes and
an easy way to do this without tear-out, Make any needed adjustments. Then slots in the sub-top on the top, as shown
see the Shop Tip, below. glue and clamp the parts together, as in Photo C. Remove the case, and drill

4 Glue and clamp the stiles (D) to the


sides (A), where shown on Drawing
1, flush with the ends and outside faces
shown in Photo A.

2 Measure between the stiles (D)


for the exact length of the sub-top
pilot holes into the top at the marked
centerpoints. Reposition the case. Now,
using a short screwdriver, fasten the top
of the sides. After the glue dries, sand and shelf trim (H), where shown on with #8×1‹" flathead wood screws and
the assemblies to 220 grit. Drawings 1 and 2. Then, from ‡"-thick #8×1‹" panhead screws with #10 flat

5 In the sub-top (B), drill a pair of


countersunk mounting holes in the
bottom face and a pair of ¸" expansion
cherry resawn or planed to ‹" and
ripped to match the thickness of the ‡"
plywood sub-top and shelf (B), crosscut
washers, where shown on Drawing 1.

5 From ‹" cherry plywood, cut the


back (I) to size to fit the rabbeted
slots ›" long for attaching the top (G) the trim to the measured length. Cut an opening in the case. Position the back
later, where dimensioned on Drawing 2. extra piece from ‡" scrap to the same in the case, tight against the top (G).
Drill overlapping holes to form the slots. length for use as a spacer to complete Drill mounting holes through the back

6 From ‡"-thick cherry planed to match


the thickness of the plywood bottom
(C), miter-cut the bottom front trim (E)
the case assembly. Glue and clamp the
trim in place, flush with the top and
bottom faces of the sub-top and shelf.
and into the case, where shown. Then
remove the back, sand it smooth, and
set it aside.
and side trim (F) to the sizes listed. Glue Sand smooth.

SHOP TIP
Don’t get burned routing
stopped chamfers
Ever experienced tear-out or Stopblock
burning when routing a stopped
chamfer? Tear-out can happen if Back end of part
you rout the entire chamfer in one against stopblock
pass. Burning occurs if the spinning
bit lingers in one spot, so you need
to quickly pull the part away from Partially
the bit at the end of the chamfer. chamfered edge
Here’s an easy way to avoid these toward fence
problems. With the part on edge
and against a stopblock, rotate
the part into the bit, as shown
at right. Without hesitating, rout
about two-thirds the length of the
chamfer. Then flip the part end-for-
end and reposition it against the
Rotate part into
stopblock with the face down and bit and rout about
partially chamfered edge toward the Part on
edge two-thirds of Part facedown
fence, as shown at far right. Rout chamfer length.
again, stopping when you pass the
previously chamfered area.

Page 2 of 13
18"
›" round-overs G
along ends and front edge
to form a bullnose profile 17›"

⁄ " pilot hole fi" deep


7 64
15‡"
B
#10 flat washer
1 EXPLODED VIEW H
#8 x 1‹" panhead screw
#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw
‹" rabbet 7⁄64" shank hole, countersunk on back face, with a
‡" rabbet ›" deep
›" deep mating 5⁄64" pilot hole ›" deep in parts A , B , C

#4 x fl" F.H. wood screw


4fi" P Q
H
B 2"
D S P
‡" dado
›" deep
30fi" R
I A
N M
30fi"
N
L A 16"

‹" chamfers stopped


2" from ends 16" ‹" overhang D
1fi"
2" ⁄ " pilot hole
7 64
‡" 14Å" 17›" C
T 1‹" deep
15‰" 16›"
F 16fi"
F ¸" shank hole,
V countersunk on bottom face
W U E
U 18"
›" round-overs #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw
4Œ"
W 1aK RAIL-TENONJ DETAIL
J K
4fi"
T
K K
V 14‡"
W U J
4"
¤" grooves ¤" deep
„" from edges U ¤" round-overs
14¨"
W
1a RAIL-TENON DETAIL
‡"
„" ‹"

fi"

K
FILENAME:Wine1_#100205352.eps
Date: 5-06 1‹" ¤" grooves
Lorna J. ¤" deep
„" from
edges
‹"

Page 3 of 13
2 UPPER CASE ASSEMBLY fl" to center
16" 1fi" of slot
1¤" 15‡"
B
13‡" SUB-TOP

H ¸" slot
›" long
2"
‹"
‡" rabbet ›" deep
‹" rabbet ›" deep ¸" shank hole, countersunk
on bottom face

1fi" 2"
P
Q 1¤" ‡"
2" 6fl"
D
P
15‡"
B
Å"
SHELF " pilot hole
7⁄64

fi" deep
S
H
1fi" rabbets
R fi" deep
A ‡"
‡"
15‡"

#8 x 1‹" F.H.
R S wood screw
‹"
chamfers ¤" chamfers on front
end filed and sanded ¸" shank hole,
countersunk
1fi" on bottom face at 8°
¸" shank hole, countersunk 3‡"
on bottom face ¤" chamfers
1„" 2‹"

2a OUTER HOLDER SECTION VIEW DETAIL

¤" chamfer
1fi" fi"

S
¸" shank hole,
2 UPPER CASE ASSEMBLY
countersunk

Page 4 of 13
Move down to the base
1 From laminated ‡"-thick cherry (or
1fi"-thick stock), cut two 2×9fi"
where shown on Drawings 1 and 1a, to fit
snugly into the foot mortises. (We made
test-cuts in cutoffs to verify our setup
2and
3
Fit your tablesaw with a ‹" dado
blade. Then, referring to
and the four-step
3a
Drawings
Drawing
blanks to form the feet (J). You’ll get before cutting the rail tenons.) After 4, machine the grooves, rabbets, and
two feet from each blank. cutting the tenon cheeks, set the rails on dadoes in the drawer parts. When

2 Make two copies of the full-size foot


pattern from the WOOD Patterns®
the bottom edges and cut the ends again
to trim the 1fi"-wide tenons to 1‹".
cutting the ‹"-deep grooves ‹" from
the bottom edges in the front (L) and
insert. Spray-adhere a pattern to each
blank, folding the pattern where shown.
Using a ‹" brad-point bit in your drill
6 Refit your tablesaw with a standard
¤"-kerf blade. Then cut a pair of
¤"-deep grooves „" from each face
sides (N) to receive the ‹" plywood
bottom (O), switch to a standard ¤"-
kerf blade and cut the grooves to
press, drill 1‹" mortises ¨" deep of the rails along the top edges, where width in two passes to snugly fit your
in the face and edge of each blank, dimensioned on Drawing 1a. The plywood.
where shown on the pattern and as
shown in Photo D. Then, using sharp
chisels, square the ends and sides of
grooves capture glue squeeze-out when
mounting the base to the case. Sand the
rails smooth.
3 Using a 45° chamfer bit in your
table-mounted router, rout a ¤"
chamfer across the ends and along the
the mortises.

3 Bandsaw and drum-sand each blank


to the pattern lines, but do not
7 Dry-assemble the feet (J) and rails
(K), and verify that the parts fit
together correctly. Then glue and clamp
edges of the drawer front (L) on the
front face, where shown on Drawing
3. Then drill an 11/64" hole, centered,
separate the feet. Using a ¤" round- the base together, as shown in Photo E. through the front for screw-mounting a
over bit in your table-mounted router,
round over the edges and ends of the
blanks on both faces, where shown on
8 Place the case on the floor with the
bottom up. Apply glue to the area on
the rails (K) between the ¤" grooves.
1‹" knob later.

4 From ‹" cherry plywood, cut the


bottom (O) to size. Sand all of the
the pattern and Drawing 1. Sand the Now position and clamp the base (J/K) drawer parts smooth. Then glue and
routed edges smooth. to the bottom of the case, as shown in clamp the front (L), back (M), and sides

4 Using an extension on your tablesaw


miter gauge for support, and a
stopblock to ensure identical lengths,
Photo F.

Now head up to the drawer


(N) together, keeping the top edges of
the back and sides flush. Check for
square. Now slide the bottom (do not
crosscut two 4fi"-long feet from each
blank, where shown on the pattern. 1stockFrom ‡"-thick cherry, cut the drawer
front (L) to size. Then, from ‡"
glue) in place, and secure it to the back
with #18ׇ" brads.

5 Cut the rails (K) to size. Using a dado


blade in your tablesaw, form a ‹"
tenon fi" long at each end of the rails,
planed to fi", cut the back (M)
and sides (N) to size. 5 From ‡"-thick cherry, cut the
drawer cleats (P) and stop (Q) to the
sizes listed. Position the cleats (without

A
B

E
F D
A Part B flush with Spacer
rabbet in part A

C
A
B D

A
A D B
ASSEMBLE THE CASE MOUNT THE BOTTOM
Glue and clamp the case together, ensuring Clamp the bottom/trim assembly (C/E/F), cen-
that the sub-top and shelf (B) are flush with the tered side-to-side, to the case, with the spacer
rabbeted back edges of the sides (A). tight between the stiles (D).

Page 5 of 13
A

Bottom face of
part G ¸" slot
›" long

C D
MARK TOP MOUNTING HOLES DRILL THE FOOT MORTISES
Using a ¸" brad-point bit, mark the centers of Drill overlapping holes to form 1‹" mortises
the mounting holes and slots in the sub-top (B) ¨" deep in the face and edge of the foot blank,
on the bottom face of the top (G). where shown on the pattern.

K
J K

C Flush
Tops of rail
and foot flush K J
90°
K J K
F

E F
GLUE THE BASE TOGETHER ADD THE BASE TO THE CASE
Glue and clamp the feet (J) and rails (K) to- Glue and clamp the base (J/K) to the case bot-
gether, keeping the top surfaces flush. Mea- tom (C/E/F), with the base centered side-to-
sure the diagonals to verify square. side, and the feet (J) flush with the back.

Page 6 of 13
3 DRAWER
‹" ‹" rabbets ‹" deep

‹" dadoes ‹" deep ‹" from ends


13¤"
‹"
M 4"
N

11⁄64" hole, centered O #18 x ‡" 4Á"


brad
¤" chamfers
14fi"
13¤"
N
4Á"
14‡"
fi"
L

13fl"
6Å" ‹" grooves ‹" deep
‹" from bottom edge
1‹" satin-nickel knob

3a DRAWER-JOINT DETAIL

3a DRAWER-JOINT DETAIL
‹"

‹"
‹" M

‹"
LENAME:Wine3_#100205356.eps ‹"
te: 5-06 N
rna J.
‹"
‹" L

fi"
¤" chamfer

Page 7 of 13
4 MACHINING THE DRAWER PARTS
STEP 1 STEP 2
Auxiliary
Auxiliary wood
wood fence fence
L Outside
‹" face

fi" L fi"

Tablesaw ‹" dado blade Tablesaw ‹" dado blade

STEP 3 STEP 4
Auxiliary Auxiliary
wood wood
fence fence
Inside Outside
face ‹" face ‹"

M 5 CASE SIDE
fi" SECTION
N VIEW
‹" ‹"
‹" dado
Tablesaw ‹" dado blade Tablesaw blade

5 CASE SIDE SECTION VIEW

B
H

Wine4_#100205358.eps

¤" B

H A
D

Page 8 of 13
glue) in the case, tight against the sides sizes listed. Then, from ‡"-thick cherry coats of satin AquaZar Water-Based
(A) and stiles (D). Slide the drawer planed to match the plywood thickness, Polyurethane, sanding to 320 grit
into place, and verify that it moves cut the shelf trim (V) and divider trim between coats.)
smoothly. If tight, remove the drawer,
and plane or sand the cleats as needed
to achieve the desired fit. Then glue
(W) to the given sizes.

2 As you did for the base rails (K),


cut a pair of ¤" glue-relief grooves
3 When the finish dries, remount
the wineglass holders (R, S). Then
fasten the back to the case with #4×fl"
and clamp the cleats into position. along the top edges of the dividers (U), flathead wood screws. Attach a 1‹"

6 Dry-clamp the stop (Q) to the shelf


(B), centered side-to-side and flush
at the back. Slide the drawer into the
where shown on Drawing 1.

3 Glue and clamp the shelf trim (V)


to the shelves (T), and the divider
knob to the drawer using the screw
supplied with the knob. For a smooth-
gliding drawer, apply paraffin wax to
case until it contacts the stop. Verify trim (W) to the dividers (U), keeping the cleats (P) and bottom edges of the
that the front (L) overhangs the shelf trim the ends and edges flush. Sand smooth. sides (N). Install the drawer and shelves
(H) ¤", where shown on Drawing 5. If Then glue and clamp the dividers (U/W) in the case. Now fill the cabinet with
the overhang is greater than ¤", trim the to the bottom of the shelves (T/V) where your favorite wines, wineglasses, and
stop width, as needed. If the overhang is dimensioned, keeping the parts flush at accessories, pop a cork, and celebrate
less than ¤", position the drawer with the back. (The shelf trim overhangs the your fine work! ¿
a ¤" overhang, and glue and clamp the divider trim ‹" at the front.)
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
block to the shelf, tight against the drawer Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund
back (M). Remove the drawer. Finish up Project design: Kevin Boyle

Add the wineglass holders 1holders,


As needed, sand any areas of the
case, back, drawer, wineglass
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
Graphic design: Lorna Johnson

1S) From ‡"-thick cherry, cut the


wineglass inner and outer holders (R,
and shelves to 220 grit and
remove the dust. The purchase of these plans does not
transfer any copyright or other ownership
to the sizes listed. Using a standard
blade in your tablesaw, cut 1fi" rabbets
fi" deep in the holders, where shown
2 Apply a stain, if you wish, and
clear finish. (We applied Varathane
Premium Wood Stain No. 245
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
on Drawing 2, making two cuts to Traditional Cherry, followed by two
form each rabbet. Then bevel-rip a ¤"
chamfer along the edges (not ends) of
the holders, where shown. For help with INSTALL THE HOLDERS
cutting the rabbets and chamfers, see the
sidebar, “Shape the wineglass holders in
4 quick steps,” on page 10. S
2 Using a wood or cabinet file, form a
¤" chamfer on the front ends of the
inner and outer holders (R, S), where
Spacer
R
shown on Drawing 2.

3 Drill countersunk mounting holes


in the bottom faces of the holders
(R, S), angling the holes in the outer
holders (S) at 8°, where shown on
Drawing 2a. Sand the holders.

4 To mount the holders (R, S) in


the case, position the case with the
top (G) down and supported on 4×4
spacers for clamp clearance, as shown
in Photo G. From ‡" scrap, cut a B
1„×12" piece. Then crosscut six 1‡"-
long pieces for spacers. Position the
holders (without glue) on the shelf (B),
flush at the back edge, with the 1„"-
wide spacers between them, as shown.
Clamp the holders into place. Using the
mounting holes in the holders as guides, G
drill pilot holes into the shelf. Drive the
screws. For easy finishing later, remove
the screws and holders, mark the holder
locations, and set them aside. G
With the inner and outer holders (R, S) clamped in position
Time for the shelves with 1„"-wide spacers between them, drill pilot holes into
1From ‡" cherry plywood, cut the
shelves (T) and dividers (U) to the
the shelf (B) and drive the screws.

Page 9 of 13
Shape the wineglass holders in 4 quick steps
It’s easy to cut the rabbets in the wineglass holders and chamfer the
edges using a standard blade in your tablesaw. Here’s how.

R
R

Top face

STEP 1 Raise your blade 1fi" above a zero-clear- STEP 2 Lower the blade to fi", and reposition
ance insert, and position the fence ‹" from the the fence 2‹" from the inside of the blade. With
inside of the blade. Using a pushblock, push- the top face of an inner holder (R) down, cut the
stick, and feather board for safety, rip the outer piece, turn it end-for-end, and cut it again to com-
holders (S) along one edge and inner holders (R) plete the rabbets. For stability, keep the push-
along both edges, keeping the same face against block centered on the holder. Repeat for the other
the fence. inner holder.

S
R

fl"-minimum
Top face throat

STEP 3 With the blade height still at fi", reposi- STEP 4 To chamfer the edges of the holders,
tion the fence ‡" from the inside of the blade. switch to your standard blade insert. Tilt the
Keeping an outer holder (S) tight against the blade to 45°, and raise it ‡". Position the fence,
fence with the top face down, cut the piece to as shown, and cut a ¤" chamfer along both
complete the rabbet. Hold the pushblock snug to edges of the inner holders (R). Then reposition the
the fence to keep the part stable. Repeat for the fence, and chamfer the inside edge of the outer
other holder. holders (S).

Page 10 of 13
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Page 11 of 13
E *H V V
F F

D G G G
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)
*Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
J P Q
K L *M *N *N
O
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)

W W
R R S I
‡ x 5fi x 48" Cherry (2 bd. ft.)

‹ x 48 x 48" Che

C T T T U U U

A A
B B

‡ x 48 x 96" Cherry plywood

Cutting Diagram
N
O

‹ x 48 x 48" Cherry plywood


FILENAME:WineCD_#100205360.eps
Date: 5-06
Page 12 of 13
Lorna J.
4-7-06 Lorna J.
R LeMoine Date: 4-06
Filename: 172winerack 3 FILENAME:100205361_WineRackPP.eps

Page 13 of 13
4fi" 4fi"
Cutline
Waste Cutline
¤" round-overs
J
J
2" FOOT 1‹" 1‹" ¤" round-overs
FULL-SIZE FOOT
PATTERN FULL-SIZE
‹"
(2 needed) PATTERN
(2 needed)
Foldline Foldline
‹ x 1‹" mortises ‹ x 1‹" mortises
¨" deep ¨" deep
1fi"

To ensure full-size patterns are correct


size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.

1"
FULL-SIZE PATTERN




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