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The effect of blend ratios of unrelaxed and relaxed

acrylic fibres on physical properties of high-bulk
worsted yarns

S. Shaikhzadeh Najar , S. M. Etrati , M. H. Seyed-Esfahani & H. Hadi

To cite this article: S. Shaikhzadeh Najar , S. M. Etrati , M. H. Seyed-Esfahani & H. Hadi (2005)
The effect of blend ratios of unrelaxed and relaxed acrylic fibres on physical properties of high-bulk
worsted yarns, Journal of the Textile Institute, 96:5, 311-318, DOI: 10.1533/joti.2005.0015

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1533/joti.2005.0015

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 The effect of blend ratios of unrelaxed and
relaxed acrylic fibres on physical properties of
high-bulk worsted yarns
doi:10.1533/joti.2005.0015

S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, S. M. Etrati, M. H. Seyed-Esfahani

and H. Hadi
Department of Textile Engineering, Amirkabir University of Technology, Tehran, Iran

Abstract: High-bulk acrylic yarns which contract and increase in bulk during the heat relaxation process
are produced by blending two types of fibres with different shrinking power in the spinning process. In
this paper, high-bulk acrylic yarns (steamed and dyed) with different shrinkable fibre blending ratios
were produced. Experimental results show that by increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ratio up to
40%, the specific volume and shrinkage of both dyed and high-bulk acrylic yarns are steadily increased
while their tensile strengths are decreased. Further increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ratio causes
the specific volume and tensile strength properties to decreased and increased respectively. However,
the yarn shrinkage does not change significantly. It is also found that both dyed and high-bulk acrylic
yarns have the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blending ratio. In general, the specific volume
and tensile strength of high-bulk acrylic yarns are more than those of dyed acrylic yarns but their
shrinkage and elongation values are similar.

Key words: High-bulk yarn, acrylic fibre, shrinkable and non-shrinkable fibres, blend ratio, physical
properties, heat relaxation process, worsted spinning.

INTRODUCTION given a heat relaxation treatment (steam or hot water) to

shrink or relax the high-shrinkage fibres from strain. Fibres
There is a great tendency towards increasing yarn volume, within the yarn are held together by inter-fibre friction,
which in turn affects handling, covering power and ther- so the pre-relaxed fibres must buckle outwards when the
mal insulating properties of yarn and end-products (Piller unrelaxed fibres shrink, creating bulkiness and a warm, soft
1973). In recent years, due to the low cost of ‘acrylonitrile’, feel to the yarn (Hamilton 1961, Piller 1973, Wray 1969,
acrylic fibre gained the capability of high-bulk yarns simi- Wynne 1997).
lar to wool yarn character (Ishtiaque and Behera 1983) for The bulking mechanism in high-bulk yarns thus de-
knitwear products (Wynne 1997). pends not only on the contractile properties of the high-
Some man-made fibres, and, in particular, the various shrinkage fibres themselves, but also on the interaction
acrylics, have special thermo-mechanical properties which of the two components within the actual yarn (Hamilton
enable temporary strains to be heat-set into the individual 1961, Wray 1969). The yarn’s internal structure factors
fibres (Hamilton 1961, Wray 1969). These strains may be including fibre blend proportions, yarn twist, and possibly
released when the yarn is relaxed (Hamilton 1961, Wray any preferential radial distribution of the two components
1969). High-bulk acrylic yarns which contract and increase relative to the yarn axis are therefore of major importance
in bulk on relaxation are produced by blending standard (Hamilton 1961, Piller 1973, Wray 1969). It has been re-
and high-shrinkage fibre in spinning (Hamilton 1961, Piller ported that within a certain value of unrelaxed acrylic fibres
1973, Wray 1969, Wynne 1997). The resulting yarn is then blended with relaxed fibres, the best compromise between
the yarn bulk, shrinkage, strength and elongation can be ob-
tained (Bhattacharya 1980, Edwards and Sneyd 1958, Hadi
Corresponding Author: 2000, Hamilton 1961, Heckert 1957, Ishtiaque and Behera
Dr S Shaikhzadeh Najar 1983, Lulay 1995, Malaguzzi and Sala 1971, Naik et al.
Department of Textile Engineering 1980, Oxtoby 1987, Piller 1973, Wray 1969, Wynne 1997).
Amirkabir University of Technology, Tehran, Iran
Tel: 009821 64542613; Fax: 009821 6400245 However, there is little published work to investigate and
Email: [email protected] compare the high-bulk acrylic (continuous bulking system)

C The Textile Institute 0174 311 JOTI 2005 Vol. 96 No. 5 pp. 311–318
S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, S. M. Etrati, M. H. Seyed-Esfahani and H. Hadi

Table 1 Raw material specifications

Material Fineness (den) Strength Elongation (%) Length (mm)
(cN/tex)
Filament 3.22(8.97)∗ 27.64(8)∗ 43.43(7.64)∗ –
Shrinkable fiber 2.55(10.05)∗ 32.97(14.28)∗ 13.84(16.29)∗ 108.7(40.06)∗
Non-shrinkable fibre 3.16(9.22)∗ 23.32(11.63)∗ 31.68(11.63)∗ 86.5(33.18)∗
∗ The CV% values are indicated in brackets.

Table 2 Spinning preparation process

Machine Linear density Draft Twist Doubling Delivery linear
type of sliver (Ktex) (T.P.M) density (Ktex)
27.57 (Unrelaxed)
Gill box blender 18.3 20 30.61
28.35 (Relaxed)
Gill-box I 30.61 9.8 8 25.2
Gill-box II 25.2 8.5 8 23.5
Gill-box III 23.5 12 8 7.8∗ 2 = 15.6
Speed frame 7.8 10 14.2 1 0.77

yarn’s physical properties produced in the worsted spin- In order to dye the bulked acrylic yarns, hank prepa-
ning system with those of grey (single and two-fold) and ration was carried out and then the high-bulk yarns were
steam-dyed yarns, as the shrinkable fibre blending ratio is dyed with Cathionic dye. The common hank dyeing pro-
changed. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to investigate cedure was used (Hadi 2000, Wray 1969).
the effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on bulk, shrink-
age, tensile strength and elongation of high-bulk (steamed Yarn experimental investigation
and dyed) and grey acrylic worsted yarns. The physical properties of produced yarns (single, twisted,
steamed and dyed yarns) including the yarn count, twist,
EXPERIMENTAL METHODS tensile strength and breaking elongation, percentage of
shrinkage, and specific volume were investigated. The sam-
Spinning processing ple size was calculated according to the following formula
In this research, acrylic tow (AKSA) with linear density of (Hadi 2000):
120 Ktex and nominal fibre fineness of 3 den was used.
∗ 
Having utilized a tow-to-top stretch-breaking machine t CV 2
K= (1)
(SEYDEL), two different shrinkable and non-shrinkable A
acrylic fibre tops with linear densities of 27.57 and
where K is number of test, t is probability factor (1.96%
28.35 Ktex were respectively produced. Table 1 shows
for 95% probability), CV is coefficient of variation and A is
the raw material specifications. The shrinkable and non-
allowance error (2.5–7%). Table 3 shows the sample sizes
shrinkable acrylic tops were then blended with shrink-
for yarn experimental investigations.
able fibre blending ratios of 0/100, 20/80, 40/60, 50/50,
The yarn count and twist of produced yarns were
60/40, 80/20 and 0/100 on a blender gilling machine. As
measured using standard test methods (Booth 1968,
shown in Table 2, the produced blended slivers passed
Saville 2000) (Tables 4 and 5). The percentage of yarn
through standard worsted spinning preparation machines
shrinkage was calculated (Table 6) by measuring grey
(Hadi 2000) and thus seven samples of acrylic rovings
and shrunk yarn count relationship, as indicated in the
with linear density of 0.77 Ktex (1.3 Nm) were produced.
Finally, seven samples of two-fold worsted acrylic yarns
were produced using standard worsted ring spinning and Table 3 Sample size for yarn experimental
two-for-one twister machines (Hadi 2000). The yarn count investigations
and twist level for these seven blended acrylic worsted
Test type Sample size (K)
yarns were constant at the measure of 30/2 Nm and
210 T.P.M respectively. Yarn count 10
Yarn twist 10
Bulking and dyeing processing Tensile strength 50
Elongation 50
The bulking process was carried out using Superba con- Specific volume 4∗
tinuous bulking system (Hadi 2000, Oxtoby 1987). The
steaming temperature was at a measure of 94◦ C. ∗ For grey yarn K = 3.

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 Effect of blend ratios on physical properties of high-bulk worsted yarns

Table 4 Yarn count results (Nm)

Shrinkable fibre blend ratio 0 20 40 50 60 80 100

Single yarn X 29.30 29.90 29.20 29.71 29.97 29.59 30.14

CV% 2.85 3.0 2.86 2.29 3.21 2.59 1.03
Twisted yarn X 14.97 15.07 15.06 14.95 15.07 14.85 15.05
CV% 1.95 1.78 2.3 2.23 1.95 3.72 1.85
Bulked yarn X 15.0 12.73 11.95 11.87 11.82 11.73 11.85
CV% 2.71 2.16 2.28 1.56 2.84 1.12 1.92
Bulked (dyed) yarn X 14.78 12.79 11.97 12 11.71 11.71 11.77
CV% 1.72 2.29 2.26 1.82 1.28 2.56 0.66

following equation: mass. The size of hank used in the test depends on the
linear density of the yarn and can be calculated from the
Nm 0 − Nm formula:
Shrinkage (%) = ∗ 100 (2)
Nm 0
where Nm0 is grey yarn count (metric yarn count) and Nm 90000
is bulked (shrunk) yarn count (metric yarn count). Yarn- Number of turns = (3)
Yarn Count in Tex
specific volume or yarn bulk was measured using WRONZ
Yarn Bulkometer (Hadi 2000, Shirley Development Ltd.,
Saville 2000). A typical picture of this apparatus is shown The experimental results of yarn-specific volume are
in Fig. 1. For the purpose of this test, yarn bulk is de- shown in Table 7. The yarn tensile properties were mea-
fined as the volume occupied by 1 g of yarn at a given sured using Uster Dynamat Tensile tester II. The yarn
pressure, measured in cm3 /g (Shirley Development Ltd., test length and pre-tension were 50 cm and 0.5 g/tex
Saville 2000). To measure the bulk, a neatly aligned hank respectively. The rate of loading was adjusted to give a
of yarn containing a known number of turns is placed in time to break the specimen of 20 sec (Hadi 2000, Booth
a channel 10 cm long ×5 cm wide (50 cm2 area), and 1968). The experimental results of yarn tensile properties
a load of 500 g is then placed on the sample to com- are shown in Table 8.
press the yarn. When the load comes to rest (in 60 sec All experiments were performed under the conditions
time), the height of the load above the base is measured. of 22 ± 2◦ C and 45 ± 2% r.h.. The experimental results of
The bulk of the yarn under the pressure of 10 g/cm2 yarn physical properties were statistically analysed using
is then calculated from the volume of the yarn and its ANOVA and Multiple Range Test methods (Hadi 2000).

Table 5 Yarn twist results (T.P.M)

Shrinkable fibre blend ratio 0 20 40 50 60 80 100

Single yarn X 366 361.9 373.4 376.1 368 367.5 369.1

CV% 3.11 4.77 3.99 6.53 3.04 4.59 5.11
Twisted yarn X 208.2 210.2 216 213 212.4 217.4 213.8
CV% 4.14 3.79 3.18 3.63 2.97 2.94 4.53
Bulked yarn X 212.2 229.2 258.8 255.4 259.4 267.4 254.2
CV% 5.54 4.57 4.08 2.86 4.74 5.01 5.01
Bulked(dyed) yarn X 204 229.4 250.2 252.6 254.2 264.8 256.8
CV% 6.75 5.9 3.8 4.92 4.09 4.48 5.69

Table 6 Yarn shrinkage results (%)

Shrinkable fibre blend ratio 0 20 40 50 60 80 100

Bulked yarn X −0.17 15.51 20.63 20.59 21.50 20.90 21.30

CV% −1935.54 15.31 11.51 7.16 12.10 17.66 6.66
Bulked(dyed) yarn X 1.25 15.18 20.48 19.69 22.27 21.01 21.79
CV% 204.82 11.91 13.89 12.21 7.13 21.65 7.37

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S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, S. M. Etrati, M. H. Seyed-Esfahani and H. Hadi

Figure 1 A typical picture of WRONZ Yarn Bulkometer (Shirley Development Ltd.).

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS twisted yarn is not changed and then is decreased by in-
creasing the shrinkable fibre ratio. It is reasonable to state
The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on that the lower yarn-specific volume is due to lack of fibre
yarn shrinkage crimp in finer fibre (Brown 1969). On the other hand, in-
The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on yarn shrink- creasing the shrinkable fibre ratio up to 40% causes the
age is shown in Fig. 2. It is shown that by increasing the specific volume of both bulked and dyed yarns to be dra-
shrinkable fibre ratio up to 40%, the steamed and dyed matically increased. Increasing the yarn twist level within
yarns’ shrinkage increases and then reaches a steady con- the range of 0– 40% shrinkable fibre blend ratio (Table 5)
dition. This result is in agreement with those obtained illustrates that the yarn’s internal structure has changed.
by others (Bhattacharya 1980, Edwards and Sneyd 1958, Edwards and Sneyd (Edwards and Sneyd 1958), Lulay
Hamilton 1961 and Wray 1969). It may be assumed that (Lulay 1995) and Oxtoby (Oxtoby 1987) also quote a blend
within the range of 40–100% shrinkable fibre ratios, the of about 40% unrelaxed fibre results in maximum yarn
internal structure of yarns does not allow the shrinkage bulk. Further increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ra-
process to be carried out completely. Statistical analysis tio results in a decrease in yarn-specific volume to a certain
results indicate that within the range of 40–100% shrink- value similar to that of the normal acrylic (100% non-
able fibre blend ratio, both yarn shrinkage and yarn twist shrinkable fibre) yarn. The yarn-specific volume reduction
remain significantly unchanged (Hadi 2000). is because the percentage of relaxed fibre component is
decreased. The lower dyed yarn-specific volume in com-
parison with the steamed yarn is presumably related to the
The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on tension effects in hank preparation and hank dyeing pro-
yarn-specific volume cesses (Piller 1973) and/or lower strength of dyed yarn. It
The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on specific is reasonable to state that after the hank dyeing process,
volume of twisted, bulked and dyed yarns is shown in the tension applied to the wet yarn due to the weight of
Fig. 3. It is demonstrated that by increasing the shrink- absorbed water by yarn hank (before drying process) would
able fibre blending ratio up to 20%, the specific volume of presumably diminish yarn bulk.

Table 7 Yarn-specific volume results (cm3 /g)

Shrinkable fibre blend ratio 0 20 40 50 60 80 100

Twisted yarn X 9.63 9.59 9.53 9.49 8.88 8.72 8.43

CV% 1.5 0.55 2.23 2.5 1.48 1.99 1.05
Bulked yarn X 8.76 12.75 13.5 13.09 11.88 10.72 8.59
CV% 2.75 3.28 1.69 1.97 2.79 2.17 2.41
Bulked(dyed) yarn X 7.64 9.47 10.49 10.25 9.95 9.24 7.91
CV% 1.59 0.92 0.66 3 2.92 3.2 4.62

JOTI 2005 Vol. 96 No. 5 314 doi:10.1533/joti.2005.0015

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Table 8 Yarn tensile strength (T (g/tex)) and elongation (E (%)) results

doi:10.1533/joti.2005.0015
Shrinkable fibre 0 20 40 50 60 80 100
blend ratio
T E T E T E T E T E T E T E

Single yarn∗ X 11.55 14.39 10.9 10.55 11.61 9.56 12.56 10.07 14.55 9.94 15.17 10.28 16.02 10.95
CV% 11.45 13.88 9.96 15.41 10.99 12.43 9.65 12.6 8.75 13.08 8.3 9.4 6.59 6.68
Twisted yarn ∗∗ X 12.86 17.69 11.62 11.74 12.61 10.69 14.11 11.66 14.87 11 15.33 10.8 17.92 11.6
CV% 7.06 7.62 5.37 8.88 9.8 10.27 7.19 6.14 7.01 6.24 8.49 7.17 6.7 7.37

315
Bulked yarn ∗∗∗ X 12.67 20.02 8.46 25.92 7.1 23.76 6.77 21.21 8.08 19.82 9.99 20.83 12.24 21.55
CV% 8.91 8.36 7.89 11.49 7.42 6.29 6.84 5.26 9.93 7.7 7.33 8.49 9.87 9.39
Bulked (dyed) X 9.86 16.87 8.04 26.16 6.34 24.46 6.24 21.24 6.45 18.39 8.86 19.82 11.47 21.15
yarn ∗∗∗ CV% 11.27 11.21 10.37 11.75 7.65 9.03 8.52 12.54 8.23 8.37 8.39 10.39 7.44 7.03
∗ A 600 g weight was used.
∗∗ A 1500 g weight was used for blend ratios of 0, 50, 60, 80 and 100 and in other cases a 1000 g weight was used.
∗∗∗ A 1500 g weight was used for blend ratio of 100 and for other cases a 1000 g weight was used.

JOTI 2005 Vol. 96 No. 5

Effect of blend ratios on physical properties of high-bulk worsted yarns
S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, S. M. Etrati, M. H. Seyed-Esfahani and H. Hadi

24
22
20
18

Shrinkage (%)
16
14 Bulked yarn
12 Dyed yarn
Poly. (Bulked yarn)
10 Poly. (Dyed yarn)
8
6
4
2
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Shrinkable fiber (%)

Figure 2 The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on yarn shrinkage.

The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on It is evident that the single and twisted yarns’ strength
yarn tensile strength are higher than those of bulked and dyed yarns. Increas-
The effect of shrinkable fibre ratio on tensile strength of ing the shrinkable fibre ratio up to 45% causes both the
single, twisted, bulked and dyed yarns is shown in Fig. 4. bulked and dyed yarns’ strength to be steadily decreased.

14

13
Specific volume (cm3/g)

12
Twisted yarn
Bulked yarn
11
Dyed yarn
Poly. (Twisted yarn)
10 Poly. (Dyed yarn)
Poly. (Bulked yarn)
9

7
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Shrinkable fiber (%)

Figure 3 The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on yarn-specific volume.

18
17
16
15
14 Single yarn
Strength (g/tex)

Twisted yarn
13 Bulked yarn
Dyed yarn
12 Poly. (Single yarn)
11 Poly. (Twisted yarn)
Poly. (Bulked yarn)
10 Poly. (Dyed yarn)
9
8
7
6
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Shrinkage fibers (%)

Figure 4 The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on yarn tensile strength.

JOTI 2005 Vol. 96 No. 5 316 doi:10.1533/joti.2005.0015

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 Effect of blend ratios on physical properties of high-bulk worsted yarns

28

26

24

22 Single yarn
Twisted yarn

Elongation (%)
20 Bulked yarn
Dyed yarn
18
Poly. (Single yarn)
16 Poly. (Twisted yarn)
Poly. (Bulked yarn)
14 Poly. (Dyed yarn)
12

10

8
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Shrinkable fibers (%)

Figure 5 The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on yarn elongation.

The reduction of yarn strength is because during the steam- trend and magnitude of bulked and dyed yarn elongation
ing process, the shrinkable fibre migrates towards the yarn with shrinkable fibre ratio seem similar.
centre and hence only about 45% of the fibres support
the tensile forces; the remaining 55% of the fibres (non-
shrinkable) are buckled and appear on the yarn surface
and therefore initially remain relatively untensioned (Ox- CONCLUSION
toby 1987). The result is that one group of fibre tends
The aim of this paper was to investigate the effect of blend
to be extended and broken before the other group is
ratios of unrelaxed and relaxed acrylic fibres on physi-
able to contribute completely to withstand the load and
cal properties of high-bulk yarns. Acrylic high-bulk yarns
consequently the high-bulk yarn strength is decreased
(steamed and dyed) with different shrinkable fibre blending
(Oxtoby 1987). Moreover, further increasing shrinkable
ratios were produced. The physical properties of produced
fibre ratio increases the yarn strength since the unrelaxed
yarns (single, twisted, steamed and dyed yarns) including
fibres are still in the drawn state and have greater molecular
the percentage of shrinkage, specific volume, strength and
orientation and strength (Wray 1969). It is also demon-
elongation were investigated.
strated that the high-bulk yarn strength is more than that
It is found that by increasing the shrinkable fibre blend-
of the dyed yarn. This is a common phenomenon in textile
ing ratio up to 40%, the specific volume and shrinkage
fibre or yarn dyeing processing in which the fibre or yarn
of both dyed and high-bulk acrylic yarns are steadily
tensile strength decreases as dye stuff penetrates into the
increased while their tensile strengths are decreased. Fur-
fibre or yarn (Nunn 1979).
ther increasing the shrinkable fibre blending ratio causes
the specific volume and tensile strength properties to be
decreased and increased respectively. Meanwhile, statisti-
The effect of shrinkable fibre blending ratio on cal analysis indicated that further increasing the shrinkable
yarn elongation fibre ratio has no significant effect on yarn shrinkage. It is
also found that both dyed and high-bulk acrylic yarns have
Figure 5 shows the effect of shrinkable fibre ratio on sin-
the highest elongation at 20% shrinkable fibre blending
gle, twisted, bulked and dyed yarn elongation. It is shown
ratio. In general, the specific volume and tensile strength
that increasing the shrinkable fibre ratio up to 40% causes
of high-bulk acrylic yarns are more than those of dyed
the single and twisted yarns elongation to be decreased.
acrylic yarns but their shrinkage and elongation values
Further increasing unrelaxed fibre blend ratio resulted in
are similar. It is suggested that maximum yarn (dyed and
partially increasing the yarn elongation. However, the situ-
steamed) bulk; shrinkage and minimum yarn strength are
ation for both bulked and dyed yarns is different. Increasing
obtained at about 40% shrinkable fibre blending ratio.
the shrinkable fibre blending ratio up to 20% causes the
yarn elongation to dramatically increase. It seems likely
that the shrinkable fibre crimp is higher, which in turn
results in a higher yarn elongation. Moreover, for similar ACKNOWLEDGMENT
reasons (Oxtoby 1987) as described before, and due to the
increasing of fibre slippage or reduction of fibre-to-fibre The authors wish to express their gratitude to the manager
friction, further increasing the shrinkable fibre ratio up to of Nakhiran Textile Co., and in particular to Mr. Maniee,
60% decreases the yarn elongation. Thus, the variations for providing experimental facilities for this research.

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S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, S. M. Etrati, M. H. Seyed-Esfahani and H. Hadi

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