DK 2006 New York E-Guide Eyewitness-Travel-Guides

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New York

e guide
In style • In the know • Online

www.enewyork.dk.com
Produced by Blue Island Publishing

Contributors
Dahlia Devkota, Rachel F. Freeman, Jonathan Schultz

Photographers
Susannah Sayler, Andrew Holigan

Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan


Printed and bound in Singapore by Tien Wah Press

First American Edition, 2005


06 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States by


DK Publishing, Inc.,
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014

Reprinted with revisions 2006

Copyright © 2005, 2006 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London


A Penguin Company

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions.


No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.

ISSN 1745-5480
ISBN 0-75660-890-2
ISBN 978-0-75660-890-3

The information in this e>>guide is checked annually.


This guide is supported by a dedicated website which provides the very latest information for visitors to
New York; please see pages 6–7 for the web address and password. Some information, however, is liable to
change, and the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this
book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Contents
The Website >> Your Password 6

Top Choices 8
The Year / Morning / Afternoon
Evening / Night

Restaurants 20
Shopping 56
Art & Architecture 92
Performance 114
Pubs, Bars & Clubs 132
Streetlife 158
Havens 168
Hotels 178

Street Finder 192

Index by Area 210

Index by Type 220

Travel Information 230

Practical Information 232

General Index 234


visit www.enewyork.dk.com for the

listings
One book to take…

Stay ahead of the crowd with edguide


New York and find the best places to
eat, shop, drink, and chill out at a glance.
Packed with great ideas, incisive reviews,
and stylish photographs, it’s the guide
for those who want to experience the
real soul and pace of the city. With its
own dedicated website, this is the only
guidebook that’s always up-to-date.

• Find a romantic restaurant for a special


occasion or eat in a typical diner

• Discover small, independent art galleries


in New York’s coolest neighborhoods

• Enjoy the best of the city’s nightlife, from


revi
local bars to the latest clubs

• Shop till you drop at the very best of New


York’s boutiques and department stores

6
very latest on what’s happening now

your user ID is: newyork

your password is: newyork59263

…one website to visit

Click onto www.enewyork.dk.com for • Tap into what’s on at the theater


the latest news from and about places and who’s in at the galleries, and book
your tickets online
listed in the guide, as well as readers’
reviews and chat, features on hot topics, • Look up restaurants by name, by type, and
and an up-to-the-minute short list of by area, and check the latest reviews
New York’s most useful service
• Link directly to all the websites in the
providers. The website is regularly
book, and many more
updated, so every time you visit you
bring your guidebook up-to-date. • Have your say about places in the book,
and recommend your favorites

How to log in
When you click on Log in on the

ews home page of the website, a log-in


box will appear. Enter your user ID User ID: newyork
and password (see right).
The password will be valid for a Password: newyork59263
minimum of 12 months from the

what’s new
date you purchased this guide.

7
top choices
New York buzzes with energy – its
adrenaline-fueled, 24-hour lifestyle
is always charged with excitement.
It also offers some of the best-
known shops, bars, restaurants and
clubs in the world. This guide leads
you to the latest and best, opening
with the top choices of what to do
through the year and 24/7. And
here, to get you started, are New
York’s most unmissable sights:

d The Statue of Liberty (p12)


d The Empire State Building (p18)
d The Metropolitan Museum of Art (p103)
d MoMA (p101)
d Central Park (p173)
d Times Square (p100)
d The Guggenheim Museum (p104)
d Wall Street (p160)
d Grand Central Terminal (p100)
d Brooklyn Bridge (p12)
TOP CHOICES – the year
Whatever the season, there’s always something going on in New York.
Spring’s arrival recharges New Yorkers, sending everyone outdoors to
explore their city. Many venture to Brooklyn’s Botanic Garden to witness
the brief, energizing display of cherry blossoms. Summer, hot and sultry,
offers the greatest number of cultural events for visitors, with outdoor
concerts, parades, and neighborhood festivals, and the famous Museum Mile
celebration. The metamorphosis of Central Park into a sea of bright yellow,
rusty red, and mellow orange foliage heralds the Fall, when the Marathon
snakes through the city’s five boroughs. Winter might bring record snows
one month and mild days the next. Yet not even the weather’s mercurial
nature can detract from the pageantry and fairytale spirit of the holidays.

SPRING produced animated shorts have featured. The festival box


office is at 20 Harrison Street between Greenwich and
Cherry Blossoms at Brooklyn Botanic Garden Hudson Streets (Map 1 C1), and events take place in
www.bbg.org; first weekend in May venues as diverse as Prada’s SoHo store. Apr–May
Blooming on 220 trees adjacent to the world-renowned
Japanese Hill and Pond Garden (Map 13 D4), the cherry SUMMER
blossoms are celebrated for one weekend. Traditional
Japanese dances are performed, music is played, and Outdoor Concerts
there are origami workshops, Japanese animated films www.summerstage.org; www.celebratebrooklyn.org/celebrate
(“anime”), and samurai sword demonstrations. May Central Park’s eclectic SummerStage outdoor concert
series (Map 8 E2) might host superstar DJ Paul Van
Dyke one night and the New York Philharmonic the
next. Meanwhile, across the East River in Prospect Park
(Map 13 D5), Celebrate Brooklyn2! has more of a
neighborhood flavor, with jazz, indie pop, and plenty of
Latin salsa. Jun–Aug

Museum Mile Festival


www.museummilefestival.org; 6–9pm second Tue in Jun
For one June evening, the stretch of Fifth Avenue known
as the Museum Mile (82nd to 105th Streets) closes to
traffic, and its venerable art museums waive admission
charges. However, three hours to do the Met or the
Tribeca Film Festival
www.tribecafilmfestival.org; late Apr–early May
Since it began in 2002, the Tribeca Film Festival has
attracted hundreds of thousands of cineastes eager to
view, debut, and discuss films of all scales and styles.
Every year the festival attracts more attention, so check
the website’s booking page as early as possible if you
want tickets to the hottest premieres. Everything from
one of the Star Wars prequels to 10-minute, student-

10 For more events and festivals throughout the year, see www.enewyork.dk.com
Guggenheim is a little tight, and it’s better to simply WINTER
soak up the street scene. Local artists lead art workshops,
and musicians, dancers, and jugglers perform. Jun Carnegie Hall & Lincoln Center
Holiday Performances
Parades www.carnegiehall.org; www.lincolncenter.org;
Puerto Rican Day: 2nd Sun in Jun; www.nycballet.com
Gay Pride (www.hopinc.org): last Sun in Jun Come December, Carnegie Hall turns its attention to
The Puerto Rican Day Parade takes over Fifth Avenue seasonal favorites, with performances by the Vienna
from 42nd to 86th streets, and ranks among the city’s Boys Choir and Musica Sacra. The New York City Ballet’s
largest and most festive celebrations, with over 100,000 staging of George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker at Lincoln
marchers and 3 million spectators. The Gay Pride March Center is a hallowed holiday tradition. Evening and
(check website for current route) commemorates the weekend performances sell out quickly, but off-peak
1969 Stonewall riots in West Village, a galvanizing tickets are far more readily available. Dec/Jan
moment in the Gay Pride movement. The parties and
club nights built around Gay Pride are legendary. Jun

FALL
Feast of San Gennaro
www.sangennaro.org
Get a taste of old Little Italy during the grandest festival
on the calendar for Italian New Yorkers. For 11 days, the
spiritual heart of the neighborhood – Mulberry Street
between Canal and East Houston streets – teems with
vendors selling sausage-and-pepper, fruit ice, and Italian
pastries. Processions featuring effigies of San Gennaro
take place throughout the festivities. Mid-Sep Restaurant Weeks
Check www.restaurantweek.com for participating restaurants
New York Marathon and dates
www.ingnycmarathon.org; What began as an effort to attract local diners to their
first Sunday of November neighborhood restaurants has evolved into one of the
Attracting 35,000 athletes city’s most hotly anticipated events. For selected weeks
and over two million in winter (and also in summer), Manhattan’s most
spectators, the marathon acclaimed restaurants offer three-course, prix fixe lunch
weaves through all five and dinner menus that rarely venture above $20 and
boroughs before a victor $35 respectively. Jan/Feb; Jun
crosses the finish line.
Celebrity competitors have Hot Chocolate Festival at City Bakery
recently included local hip- www.hot-chocolate-festival.com, throughout Feb
hop impresario Sean As if the original hot chocolate at City Bakery (see p39)
“P. Diddy” Combs, who were not cause enough for celebration, more than 20
ran modeling a mohawk – novel varieties join the menu during February to melt
and a pack of bodyguards. away the city’s winter doldrums. Visitors can perk up
Check the website for the race route map. Most with a regular or espresso hot chocolate until 11am,
spectators congregate along Central Park; head to an after which the day’s special is featured. Some unlikely
outer borough to get a closer look at the action. Nov successes include chili pepper, beer, and banana. Feb

Brooklyn has its own Restaurant Week in the third week of April; check calendar listings at www.brooklyn.com 11
TOP CHOICES – morning
The start to any day in the city-that-never-sleeps is filled with anticipation.
Take a stroll around Manhattan in the early morning light and you may see
fruit vendors setting out produce on a midtown corner, unaware of suited
professionals hustling by, or Upper East Side dog-walkers, with four leash-
es to a hand, shepherding overeager purebreds through Central Park.
Though the subways are thronged with commuters, there is a less harried
side to New York mornings, offering pleasures that even many locals are
oblivious to. Workers in Herald Square may never know the simple enjoy-
ment of watching chess in Chinatown, or of sampling fresh-baked muffins
at the Union Square Farmer’s Market. So, take advantage of the early hours
to best experience snippets of the city as it rouses itself for the day ahead.

Jog or Walk on Brooklyn Bridge Sunday Mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral


For the virtuous early riser, no activity in New York 50th Street and 5th Avenue (Map 6 E1)
suggests “morning” so emphatically as a jog across Even for travelers who have seen Europe’s most dazzling
Brooklyn Bridge. To best appreciate the early rays, take Gothic cathedrals, St. Patrick’s is still an awesome spec-
the A or C train to High Street/Brooklyn Bridge, and walk tacle. It is the country’s largest Gothic church – at 405 ft
or run with the commuter traffic toward Lower Manhattan. (123 m) long and with spires reaching skyward some
The sun glows pink against the bridge’s arches and grad- 330 ft (100 m). Every Sunday, the cathedral fills with
ually illuminates the city’s towering columns of glass, hundreds of parishioners and visitors for Mass. Should
steel, and stone. Below, the East River shimmers gold. you not wish to participate directly in the service, watch
proceedings from a pew near the Fifth Avenue entrance.

The Early Boat to Liberty Island


Ferry: www.statueoflibertyferry.com
Statue of Liberty: www.statuereservations.com
After nearly three years of closure following the 9/11
terrorist attacks, the Statue of Liberty reopened to the
public. Once again, visitors can experience the sweep-
ing panorama of New York Harbor from the feet of Lady
Liberty. It is, of course, a perennially popular attraction,
but you can avoid the heaviest crowds by catching the
8:30am Circle Line ferry from Battery Park’s Castle
Clinton (ticket windows open at 8:30am).

Wall Street at the Start of Trading


The New York Stock Exchange, founded in 1792, is
America’s most hallowed temple of money-making. At
around 9:15am, just before the opening bell tolls at
11 Wall Street, glimpse traders scurrying between the
granite columns of the Broad Street entrance. Watching
their hustle might give you an appetite, so grab a fortify-
ing muffin and coffee from Dean & DeLuca Café at
Borders (100 Broadway at Pine St). (See also p160.)

12 www.enewyork.dk.com
Union Square Farmer’s Market Pastries at Dean & DeLuca
E. 17th St. and Bdwy (Map 3 D1), 8–6 Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat; 560 Broadway (at Prince St.), (see p65)
www.cenyc.org The nation’s pre-eminent purveyor of gourmet groceries
For four days each week, the lot adjoining Union Square traces its origin to the corner of Broadway and Prince
West fills with farmers from the region, eager to show Street, in the heart of SoHo. Morning customers can
off and sell the season’s bounty. Besides the unmatched find formidable temptations among Dean & DeLuca’s
quality of the produce, the market provides a direct link renowned pastries and cakes, as well as superior coffee
between growers and consumers. and fine teas. The in-house grocer selects muffins,
Danishes, doughnuts, and scones from the city’s top
Brunch in the West Village bakeries, so customers can choose from a cross-
Paris Commune, 99 Bank Street (at Greenwich St), (Map 3 A3); section of the best baked goods leaving New York
Deborah, 43 Carmine Street (between Bedford & Bleecker Sts), ovens. With commuters in mind, drinks are sold to go.
(Map 3 C4); Florent, 69 Gansevoort Street (see p38)
Around 10am, on virtually every West Village block, slate A Stroll through Columbus Park
signs spring up outside the neighborhood’s bistros, pro- Mei Lai Wah Coffeeshop, 64 Bayard Street (between Mott &
claiming “Brunch!” in bright pastel chalk. At the most Elizabeth Sts), (Map 2 E1)
Over 100 years ago, this pleasant Chinatown park was
the heart of the violent Little Five Points neighborhood,
dramatically depicted in Martin Scorcese’s film Gangs of
New York. Though times have clearly changed, tempers
do still flare when elderly Chinese men battle it out
over chessboards at the park’s many picnic tables.
Close to the park’s gates, palm readers and cobblers
solicit business from Chinese-speaking passersby. Buy
a roast pork bun and coffee from the Mei Lai Wah
Coffeeshop, and take in the charming scene.

Dim Sum in Chinatown


popular restaurants, you may have to queue for a table, Golden Unicorn (see p25); HSF, 46 Bowery (between Bayard &
but with mimosas, juices, and Bloody Marys often Canal Sts), (Map 2 E1)
included free of charge, the value and quality of a West Be it a fishmonger tying crab claws shut or a woman
Village brunch is worth the wait. Try the French toast at weighing a sack of lychees, Chinatown offers a feast for
Paris Commune, the fluffy, vegetable-studded omelets the eyes. And during late morning, the feast moves into
at cozy Deborah, or the old favorite Florent. the neighborhood’s grand dim sum dining rooms.
Steaming carts filled with
Dress Racks in the Garment District roast pork buns, lotus leaf-
The grit and pace of workaday New York is on vibrant wrapped rice, dumplings,
display in this historic district. Roughly bounded north and dessert custards circu-
and south by 34th and 40th Streets, and east and west late between communal
by 9th and 7th Avenues, the Garment District hosts a tables. Indicate to the serv-
colorful fashion show every morning as clothing and er which plates you want
fabric wholesalers of Hasidic Jewish, West Indian, (most servers speak very
Pakistani, Chinese, and Indian backgrounds push bulging little English, so pointing is
dress racks from delivery trucks to storefronts. Buy a acceptable). Two of the best
bagel and coffee from a vendor’s cart, and try to avoid dim-sum restaurants are
encounters between dress-rack wheels and your toes. Golden Unicorn and HSF.

13
TOP CHOICES – afternoon
New York hits its stride in the afternoon. Save for the nightclubs and a
few bars and restaurants, the entire city is open for business and the
shopping streets are at their most bustling. Of course, even commerce
takes a lunch break, and, when it does, there is no better place to be on a
sunny day than midtown’s picturesque Bryant Park. Here, in one of the
city’s most treasured green spaces, you can enjoy unrivaled people-
watching. If you’re feeling energetic after lunch, you might opt for a walk
or bike ride through Central Park, art gallery browsing in Chelsea, or
some retail therapy in SoHo’s chic boutiques. Afternoons are for taking
things at your own pace, even if that means simply sipping an espresso
and reading a first-edition classic in a cozy armchair.

Boutique-Browsing in SoHo Open-Air Swimming


Moss (see p64); Chanel, 139 Spring St. (at Wooster St.), (Map 3 Astoria, 19th Street & 23rd Drive, Queens; Hamilton Fish Pool,
D5); Helmut Lang (see p62); Dolce & Gabbana, 434 West 128 Pitt Street (at E. Houston St.), Manhattan (Map 4 G4);
Broadway (at Prince St.), (Map 3 D4) www.nycgovparks.org
Stray from the big, brash emporiums on Broadway’s Many New Yorkers are not aware that the city’s park
SoHo stretch and you’ll be rewarded by designer service maintains over 20 outdoor swimming pools, let
boutiques on the quaint side streets. Fans of sleek, alone that the facilities are free of charge. This inexplica-
modernist furnishings should stop at Moss; for European ble oversight by the locals is the visitor’s gain, however.
fashion, Chanel, Helmut Lang, and Dolce & Gabbana. Of all the city’s pools, the jewel in the crown is the
Astoria in Queens (use the Astoria Boulevard stop on
the N or W subway trains). This giant of a pool hosted
the U.S. team’s swimming trials for the 1936 Olympics.
Areas are sectioned off for lap swimming or for general
use. In Manhattan, check out the Hamilton Fish Pool in
Alphabet City, which has pleasant shady areas around
the pool. Note that there is no admittance without prop-
er bathing attire, and you need a padlock for your locker.

An Invigorating Massage
Graceful Services, 2nd Floor, 1097 2nd Avenue (between 57th
& 58th Sts), (Map 8 G5), 212 593 9904;
Gallery-Hopping in Chelsea www.gracefulservices.com
Pace Wildenstein, 534 W. 25th St.; Mary Boone Gallery, 541 W. Should sightseeing leave your muscles tight and achy,
24th St.; Gagosian Chelsea, 555 W. 24th St. (All between 10th Graceful Services holds the remedy: deep tissue
& 11th Aves, all Map 5 D5) massage, practised according to the age-old techniques
Chelsea has some of the world’s most prestigious com- of the East. Bereft of rose petals, scented candles, and
mercial art galleries, including Pace Wildenstein and other frivolous spa accoutrements, the private rooms at
Mary Boone, who has built on her success with 1980s Graceful Services appear somewhat clinical. But as your
art stars Julian Schnabel and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Larry blocked chi, or life energy, is released by the deft hands
Gagosian, one of the biggest international dealers, with of a licensed masseur, you will not want for more. It’s
galleries in Beverly Hills and London, has hotly anticipat- popular with midtown workers and diplomats from the
ed exhibitions at his Chelsea outpost. (See also p96.) nearby U.N. headquarters, so you’ll need to book.

14 Find more parks and gardens at www.enewyork.dk.com


Reading a Book
Housing Works Used Book Café, 126 Crosby Street (between
Prince & W. Houston Sts), (Map 3 D4), 212 334 3324;
www.housingworksubc.com
Browse books, sip cappuccino, nibble cookies, and
support a good cause – all at the same time. Housing
Works provides job training, health care, and housing
advocacy for the city’s homeless who have HIV and
AIDS, via profits from its used books and coffee. This
bookstore-café, housed in a former warehouse, has
high ceilings, mahogany paneling, and spiral staircases.
Make your purchases, find a comfortable armchair, and
while away the afternoon with an out-of-print classic.

Biking & Boating in Central Park Markets and Shops of East Harlem
Loeb Boat House (between 74th & 75th Sts), (Map 8 E2), East 116th Street between Park & 3rd Aves (Map 12 F5)
212 517 2233; www.centralparknyc.org; open 10am–5:30pm, Spanish Harlem was populated almost entirely by
roads closed to vehicular traffic 10am–3pm, 7pm–7am Puerto Rican New Yorkers until the 1980s, but now it
Mon–Fri, 7pm Fri–7am Mon also has many Mexican, Chinese, and other Caribbean
Comprising 843 acres of ponds, meadows, hills, and residents. On East 116th Street, the waft from a
woods, Central Park is an urban oasis like no other, but Mexican bakery is just as likely to seize your attention
its sheer scale presents a challenge for those with limit- as the candles burning inside a Haitian santería (shop
ed time. You can hire a bicycle and helmet by the hour at selling mystical goods), or the elderly Dominican gentle-
the Loeb Boat House. Note that cycling teams practice man pushing his tropical fruit ice cart and shouting out
in the park, and etiquette requires recreational riders to the day’s flavors in Spanish. Score authentic Mexican
move toward the curb to let them pass. Alternatively, sweets and restorative horchata drinks at Don Paco
take to the water in a rowing boat or gondola. López Panadería (2129 3rd Ave. at 116th St.).

Picnicking at Bryant Park


42nd Street (Map 6 E2), www.bryantpark.org
At the first sign of fair weather, beautifully maintained
Bryant Park transforms into an
alfresco lunch room for hun-
dreds of midtown professionals.
Furniture is plentiful, and the
public restrooms are very
clean. There’s also a “reading
room” where visitors can bor-
row current issues of popular A Tour of Penn Station
magazines, while music and 4th Mon of every month; meet at 34th St. Tourist Info Kiosk,
dance performances take place Penn Station Rotunda 12:30pm (Map 5 D4), 212 719 3434
on the grass. Above all, the New York lost a treasure when this Neo-Classical
park is a prime spot for people- station was destroyed by thoughtless planners in 1964.
watching. Buy a sandwich at However, traces of the 1910 structure do survive, and
Pret a Manger (11 W. 42nd St. well-informed guides illuminate these details, and
at 5th Ave.), sit and indulge. describe the grandeur that was lost.

15
TOP CHOICES – evening
Evening’s arrival might signal the end of the working day, but to board the
homebound train immediately after leaving the office is an alien concept
for most New Yorkers. With so many happy-hour specials at the city’s
myriad bars, a dining scene unmatched in its diversity and quality, free
cultural events, and top-quality sports games, it is not difficult to understand
the reluctance to go straight home. Such choice can be overwhelming,
even for locals – should you be racked with indecision, concentrate on the
area below 14th Street, where Manhattan’s restaurants and bars are most
densely packed. It never hurts to call ahead and reserve a table for dinner,
especially on weekends. But, unless you plan to dine at the most exclusive
restaurants (see pp22–3 & 38), getting a table on the day is usually easy.

“Vicious” Cocktails at the Algonquin (6–8pm Fri); and the Whitney (6–9pm Fri). At the Brooklyn
59 W. 44th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves), (Map 6 E2), Museum of Art, admissions are waived all day (until
www.algonquinhotel.com 11pm) on the first Saturday of the month, when bands,
In the 1920s, when the acerbic Dorothy Parker wrote dance troupes, and a cash bar create a party atmosphere.
for Vanity Fair, she would meet with other writers
(including novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald) for cocktails and Latin American and Yiddish Theater Peformances
gossip at the Algonquin Hotel. Their group was known El Repertorio Español, 138 E. 27th St. (between Lexington &
as the Vicious Circle, as no celebrity was spared their 3rd Aves), (Map 6 F4), www.repertorio.org; Folksbiene Yiddish
sharp tongues. Soak up the atmosphere in the Blue Bar, Theater at the Manhattan JCC, 334 Amsterdam Avenue (at 76th
with its witty cartoons by New Yorker vet Al Hirschfeld. St.), (Map 7 B1), www.folksbiene.org
El Repertorio Español stages productions adapted
Museum Deals from Spanish literature as well as original pieces by
Museum of Modern Art (see p101); Jewish Museum (see p105); emerging Latin playwrights. Performances are in Spanish,
Guggenheim (see p104); Whitney (see p101); BMA (see p108) with simultaneous translation through headphones.
Several museums operate a “pay what you wish” policy The Folksbiene’s repertory stages productions in Yiddish
in the evening: the Museum of Modern Art (4–8pm Fri); with English supertitles that are heavy on songs and
the Jewish Museum (5–8pm Thu); the Guggenheim slapstick humor.

A Sunset Ferry to Staten Island


Whitehall Ferry Terminal (Map 2 E5), www.siferry.com
Sunset adds ambience to an already spectacular ferry
trip across the Hudson River. The free 25-minute jour-
ney offers views of Lower Manhattan’s skyscrapers and
bridges, plus Liberty, Ellis and Governor’s islands.
Ferries depart every 15 to 20 minutes (5–8pm).

Shooting Pool
SoHo Billiards, 298 Mulberry Street (at E. Houston St.), (Map 4
E4); Fat Cat Billiards, 75 Christopher Street (between Bleecker
& W 4th Sts), (Map 3 B3)
A pool player’s pool hall, SoHo Billiards dispenses with
the brass fixtures and high polish of uptown parlors and

16 www.enewyork.dk.com
simply provides 20 pool tables in excellent condition, “slams” – and collaborations
and reasonable hourly rates. It doesn’t have a bar between musicians and
though – if you want a beer with your Eight-ball, head vocal artists. Performances
over to the subterranean world of Fat Cat. often blur the line between
hip-hop lyricism and spoken-
Happy Hour at McSorley’s word poetry. Respected hip-
15 East 7th Street (see p142) hop personalities Mos Def,
Around 5pm on weekday evenings, a mix of intellectuals, Company Flow, and Rahzel
edgy East Village types, and hard-drinking regulars occasionally stop by for
congregate at this old bar for discounted rounds of ales. impromptu sessions.
More convivial than on busy weekends, weeknight happy
hours allow you to relax at a communal wood table, or Outdoor Movies in Bryant Park
press the bartender for obscure McSorley’s history. Map 6 E2, www.bryantpark.org
Enchanting at any time of the day (see also p15),
Bryant Park acquires a communal, festive mood on
warm summer evenings. Every Monday throughout July
and August, the Park organizes free screenings of classic
movies on the lawn, which begin as soon as the sun
sets – with luck, you might see it dip below the horizon
while gazing down West 40th Street. Go early, take a
picnic meal, and enjoy the show. Also during summer,
jazz musicians play free concerts by the park’s terrace;
most performances have a groovy, Latin flair.

The View from Top of the Tower


Top of the Tower @ Beekman Tower Hotel (see p172)
Catch the Knicks at Madison Square Garden This cocktail lounge and restaurant offers some of the
2 Pennsylvania Plaza (Map 6 E5), 212 465 5867, www.nba.com best seating in New York to watch the spectacle of the
Although the Knicks are one of the most popular basket- city’s buildings lighting up at night. Book a window
ball teams, visitors to Madison Square Garden can terrace table (off the main room), and ideally arrive at
nearly always obtain tickets – even when the game is dusk to enjoy the subtle transformation of the skyline.
officially sold out. The Garden box office withholds the Once night has fallen, you can turn your attention to the
release of hundreds of tickets until game day, so spon- well-mixed cocktails and menu of American cuisine.
taneous travelers with a sudden desire to scream in
unison with a 20,000-strong crowd should phone the
ticket line or go down to the box office. Check the
team’s website for occasional discount-ticket promotions.

Poetry Slams in the East Village


Nuyorican Poets Café, 236 East 3rd Street (see p119)
The Nuyorican Poets Café was founded in 1973 with the
specific aim of providing a forum for Puerto Rican-New
Yorker writers – a group that included poet and award-
winning playwright Miguel Piñero. The intimate space has
a much wider remit these days, and is renowned for its
raucous, informal poetry-recital competitions – known as

Bartenders are often mines of information about restaurants; ask for suggestions, and remember to leave a tip 17
TOP CHOICES – night
On weekends in Chelsea and the East and West Villages, and spilling over
into adjacent neighborhoods, sidewalks teem with as many pedestrians at
2am as at 8pm. New York, in this regard, feels more akin to European
cultural capitals than to any other American urban center. The pulsing
nightclubs of New York attract the world’s top DJs, lured instinctively to
the city that nurtured jazz in its infancy and gave birth to hip-hop and rap.
The city is also famous for producing sharp-witted comedians, who supply
laughs nightly in the many comedy clubs. It is difficult not to love such a
place, even if you prefer more subdued diversions, such as ogling New
York’s incomparable skyline from the top of its most fabled building, or
swapping stories with friends over a few glasses of wine at Rhône.

Stargazing at the Hayden Sphere downtown traffic into two luminous veins: one bound
Rose Center for Earth and Space, American Museum of Natural for further travel down Fifth Avenue, the other for
History (Map 7 C1), 212 769 5200, www.amnh.org/rose Broadway. Around you are the twinkling icons of the Art
Housed in a glass box, the 87-ft (27-m) diameter Hayden Deco era (see p99), including the Chrysler, Chanin, and
Sphere is the world’s largest virtual reality simulator. Its General Electric buildings. No visit to the city is com-
striking form, luminescent at night, has endeared it to plete without this experience. Book online to save time.
New Yorkers since the Rose Center opened in 2000.
Come on a Friday, when it stays open until 8:45pm, for Bar-Hopping in East Village
a mesmeric journey through the cosmos. If you’re in the mood for a sleek, intimate wine bar, an
authentic Irish pub, a hard-rocking dive, or any combina-
Improv at the tion thereof, make the East Village your destination.
Upright Citizens Second Avenue has the neighborhood’s greatest con-
Brigade Theatre centration of bars, and high-quality drinks and diversions
307 W. 26th St. (at 8th abound off this principal nightlife thoroughfare. The
Ave.), (Map 5 C5), scene below St. Mark’s Place is fun, but can become
www.ucbtheatre.com rowdy after midnight. Try Swift (see p142) for traditional
New York’s boldest, most Irish cheer and well-drawn pints. Bar Veloce (see p144)
irreverent comedians is good for reasonably priced Italian wines. Should you
ply their trade on this find yourself craving cheap beer, loud rock and 1970s
Chelsea stage. Any given living-room kitsch, then put Welcome to the Johnson’s
night sees performances (see p140) on your itinerary.
by sketch and improvisational comedy troupes, plus
stand-up comics. Tuesday’s “Harold Night,” which gen-
erally offers the most reliable laughs of the week, pits
the city’s best improv comedy acts against each other.

Nighttime Views from the Roof of New York


Empire State Building Observatory (Map 6 E3), 212 736 3100,
www.esbnyc.com (last elevator up at 11:15pm)
On a clear night, the scene from the 86th floor of the
Empire State Building is breathtakingly beautiful. South-
ward views show the Flatiron Building cleaving

18 Check the latest clubs on the scene at www.enewyork.dk.com


Wine-Sipping at Rhône
63 Gansevoort Street (between Greenwich & Washington Sts),
(see p148)
Following a long day at the office, New York’s stylish set
migrates to this cavernous wine bar in the Meatpacking
District. Rhône is a reflection of everything the area has
become: pricey, chic, and trend-setting. It has a lofty
ceiling, painstakingly modern furnishings, and mammoth
windows. The knowledgeable bartenders can assist you
in choosing one of the 30 reds available by the glass.

A Midnight Movie at the Sunshine Cinema


143 East Houston Street (between 1st & 2nd Aves), (Map 4 E4),
212 330 8182, www.landmarktheatres.com Club-Hopping in Chelsea
Each weekend brings a different cult classic for a midnight Style is paramount in Chelsea – a neighborhood of
screening at this immaculately restored, late 19th- design studios, art galleries, and architecture firms. And
century former vaudeville theater. Favorites include Mel where aesthetically minded people work, nightclubs
Brooks’s Blazing Saddles (1974), while Steven Spielberg’s tend to follow. Witness Avalon (see p149), a world-class
The Goonies (1985) is popular with NYU students hooked dance club housed in a former church. Spirit (p150) is
on 1980s nostalgia. Some audience members even arrive unrelenting in its pursuit of sensory stimulation: multi-
in costume and shout out classic lines with the film. ple rooms offer a panoply of sounds, light shows, and
performance arts. Hiro (p150) feels like a modern
speakeasy hiding in the bowels of an exclusive Tokyo
hotel, while Roxy (p149) caters to the most colorful
clubbers in the city.

Jazz at the Village Vanguard


Village Vanguard, 178 7th Avenue South (see p116)
The Vanguard inspires almost religious levels of venera-
tion, and a glance at the roster since it was founded in
1935 explains why. Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Dizzy
Gillespie, and Wynton Marsalis have all performed (and
sometimes recorded albums) in this intimate West Village
space. The award-winning Vanguard Jazz Orchestra
plays on Mondays; saxophone master Joe Lovano and
Music on the River jazz-rock fusion artists The Bad Plus are other regulars.
Barge Music, Fulton Ferry Landing, Brooklyn (see p130)
Ships on the East River, when sounding their baritone Late-Night Quick Bites
airhorns, impart a salty maritime character to the city. New York caters well to nocturnal appetites. Wherever
But could they share the river air with, of all things, the there is a large concentration of bars, there is also a
dulcet harmonies of chamber music? Barge Music, choice of eateries that are open late. The East Village has
docked at the eastern end of Brooklyn Bridge, believes the Turkish cafeteria Bereket (see p27), the inexpensive
so. This gorgeously renovated barge provides the city’s Yaffa Cafe (p30), and the bright, historic Ukrainian café
most rarified environment for hearing classical music. Veselka (see p223), which prepares a wondrous borscht.
And for a backdrop, the 125-seat auditorium has the West Village night owls congregate outside Joe’s Pizza
entire glittering spectacle of nighttime Manhattan. (see p222) for some of the best slices in Manhattan.

19
restaurants
New York is one of the world’s
finest cities for dining out, whether
you aspire to a table at one of the
most fashionable restaurants, or
simply want to pick up something
cheap and tasty from a café or from
a street vendor. Myriad restaurants
cover every cuisine imaginable, the
food served up on anything from
banana leaves to porcelain plates.
The following pages provide a
snapshot of NY’s dining scene.
TOP CHOICES – restaurants
HOT TABLES ROMANTIC SETTINGS WORLD CUISINES

Babbo Aquavit
110 Waverly Place 13 West 54th Street
One of celebrated Italian chef Mario Succulent herrings, seafood stews,
Batali’s first restaurants – tables and other Scandinavian delectables
here need to be booked at least are served in an atrium with its own
two weeks in advance. (See p34) running waterfall. (See p45)

66 Tomoe Sushi
241 Church Street 172 Thompson Street
The combination of Chinese fusion New Yorkers are prepared to line up
cuisine, sleek furnishings, killer cock- outside this small, simple space in
tails, and a fashionable crowd makes order to sample ultra-fresh and
66 a hot Tribeca ticket. (See p24) tender sushi. (See p33)

Atlantic Grill New Leaf Café Tamarind


1341 3rd Avenue Fort Tryon Park 41–3 East 22nd Street
This seafood restaurant is a Beautiful Fort Tryon Park provides Here you’ll find spices and Indian
perennial favorite with discerning a delightful backdrop – take a stroll flavors with an individual twist, as
Upper East Siders. Book in advance before settling into the café. (See p51) in Tamarind’s signature tandoori
or be prepared to wait. (See p48) scallops. (See p41)

If you register on the www.iseatz.com Sobaya


website, you can do your restaurant 229 East 9th Street
booking online, using a credit card. Noodles in broth never tasted so
At www.opentable.com, you can book for good as at this hip East Village
free and earn points for future discounts. Japanese dining room. There’s a
great range of sake too. (See p32)

i Trulli
122 East 27th Street
Excellent Italian cuisine enhanced
by first-rate Chianti. Cozy up by
the fire in winter; enjoy the
garden in summer. (See p42)

The River Café


1 Water Street
The ultimate mix of top-quality
cuisine and divine views of the
Manhattan skyline, rising up from
the East River. (See p52)

22 Browse reviews of New York’s restaurants on www.enewyork.dk.com


TOP CHOICES – restaurants
SWEET TOOTH DINERS BARGAIN BITES

Mezzaluna NY Dosas
1295 3rd Avenue West 4th Street & Sullivan Street
The pasta and brick-oven-baked A vendor cart in Washington Square
pizza may be delicious, but the is renowned for sublime South
tiramisu is divine in this Upper Indian crêpes filled with finely
East Side Italian joint. (See p47) spiced vegetables. (See p37)

Ouest Daily Chow


2315 Broadway 2 East 2nd Street
Ouest’s generous helpings of panna Creative pan-Asian bites include
cotta are heavenly – so long as you marinated chicken skewers,
have room after meat loaf or Mongolian barbecue bowls, and
braised lamb shank. (See p49) luscious, exotic fruit juices. (See p30)

Balthazar Paul’s Palace Joya


80 Spring Street 131 2nd Avenue 215 Court Street, Brooklyn
Balthazar is known throughout town Monstrous hamburgers, fries, and Joya’s ultra-modern, hip dining room
for brunches and sweet pastries. milkshakes team up well with the belies a menu rich in absurdly
The home-made donuts are perfect salty personalities of Paul’s endear- affordable, delicious Thai standards.
for dipping into a coffee. (See p25) ingly gruff waitresses. (See p31) (See p52)

Remember that tipping the waitstaff Relish Sandwich Planet


is de rigueur in New York, regardless of 225 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn 534 9th Avenue
whether the service is great or indiffer- This Williamsburg destination A tiny shop that scores with almost
ent – the accepted rate is 15–20%. serves robust, inventive American limitless combinations of fillings,
bistro cuisine in a classic diner and fresh breads. (See p43)
setting. (See p55)

Tartine 2nd Avenue Deli


253 West 11th Street 156 2nd Avenue
This bijoux West Village bistro has a More than 50 years of tradition
tempting array of fresh fruit tarts go into huge sandwiches, thick
and mousses. It also does a soups, smoked fish, and other
wonderful crème brûlée. (See p38) Jewish classics. (See p33)

23
Restaurants
66 Chinese with a twist 1 D1
241 Church Street (at Leonard St.) • 212 925 0202
www.jean-georges.com
Open lunch & dinner daily (to midnight Mon–Thu,
to 1am Fri & Sat, to 10:30 Sun)

A restaurant in the empire of prestigiously gifted chef


Jean-Georges Vongerichten, 66 has a chic, minimalist
interior, immersed in shades of white, silver grays,
and black. The lofty space, with a view to the kitchen
above a row of fish tanks, attracts style slaves and
foodies alike. Dishes draw on Chinese influences, and
are produced with the customary Jean-Georges flair –
specialties include Peking duck, the 66 sesame
noodles, sweet and sour two-flavored shrimp, steamed
cod, Vietnamese coffee-flavored sorbet, and five-spice
vanilla ice cream. The evening is when 66 is at its
liveliest best – if you haven’t reserved, imaginative
cocktails ease the wait for a table. Lunch is cheaper,
with a reasonable prix-fixe menu. The check is accom-
panied by light, green-tea fortune cookies. Expensive

Montrachet quality food and wine 1 D1


239 West Broadway (between Walker & White Sts)
• 212 219 2777
www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com Open dinner only
Mon–Thu & Sat, lunch & dinner Fri

This has one of the best cellars in the country, a wine


selection to match its haute cuisine, and a sommelier
to advise without a trace of condescension. The
dining space is relaxed and comfortable. Expensive

Acappella gourmets and grappa 1 C2


1 Hudson Street (at Chambers St.) • 212 240 0163
Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

This ever-popular New York haunt produces deliciously


authentic northern Italian food. Along with seasonal
variations, the menu boasts well-prepared lamb and
fish as well as some superb pasta and pesto dishes.
And the indulgent waitstaff provide free grappa in the
elegant dining room. Expensive

24 Find Chinese restaurants in your neighborhood at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Peking Duck House perfect poultry 2 E1
28 Mott Street (between Pell St. & Chatham Sq.) • 212 227 1810
Open all day from 11:30 daily

Chinatown’s bustle carries into this restaurant on


busy nights, and the Peking duck leaves little wonder
why: crisp skin and succulent meat are served with
sliced cucumber, scallions, and tangy-sweet sauce.
Service can be brusque, and other dishes are fairly
standard, but the bird is transcendent. Moderate

Golden Unicorn a beacon in Chinatown 2 F1


18 East Broadway (at Catherine St.) • 212 941 0911
Open all day daily; dim sum 9am–3:30pm

Deep in Chinatown lies this shrine to the indulgent


Cantonese tradition of dim sum. Late on Sunday
mornings, the 1,000 seats of a pleasantly appointed
dining room fill with families eager to sample petite
plates of shrimp dumplings, roast pork buns, and
sweet egg custards. Dinner is a quieter affair. Cheap

Balthazar timeless brasserie 3 D5


80 Spring Street (between Broadway & Crosby St.) • 212 965 1785
www.balthazarny.com Open lunch & dinner daily (to 1am
Mon–Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun)

Parisian in style, Balthazar has retained its popularity


through consistently good bistro fare. The menu
changes throughout the day , catering for breakfast,
lunch, dinner, and through to after hours. Sublime
desserts, and weekend brunch is a winner. Moderate

Mercer Kitchen hip French/American 3 D5


99 Prince Street (at Mercer St.) • 212 966 5454
www.jean-georges.com Open breakfast, lunch, &
dinner daily

The Mercer is all about keeping things simple and


chic. The SoHo location attracts the trendsetters; the
menu attracts the foodies. Its setting is casual, with
tables, banquettes, and bar seating surrounding an
open-plan kitchen. Moderate

Cheap: under $14 for a main course; moderate: $14–25; expensive: over $25 25
Restaurants

L’Ecole gastronomy defined 3 D5 These students are potentially star chefs, and the
462 Broadway (at Grand St.) • 212 219 3300 menu reflects that ambition by offering dishes rooted
www.frenchculinary.com/lecole
in both traditional and contemporary French cuisine.
Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat
Creations such as poached sole with shrimp and
A restaurant that ticks all the right boxes: set in a mussels in a cider cream sauce, eggplant and red
prime location, it has a bright, airy interior with huge pepper terrine, and tea flan served with madeleines
windows, serves excellent food, and offers bargain demonstrate the challenging nature of the cooking.
prices. L’Ecole is indeed a school, and the students of If you prefer simpler fare, omelet with shoestring
the French Culinary Institute use the patrons as their potatoes won’t disappoint. Even the delectable
willing guinea pigs. It’s a wonderful arrangement – bread is made on the premises. The menu changes
diners indulge in three-, four-, and five-course meals every six weeks.
without having to sell off the family silver, while You’ll be hard-pressed elsewhere to find such a
students have a chance to hone their skills. You can winning combination of bright atmosphere and first-
order à la carte, but the prix fixe is excellent value. rate cooking at these prices. Cheap

Jane creative American fare 3 D4


100 West Houston Street (between Thompson St. & La Guardia
Pl.) • 212 254 7000
www.janerestaurant.com Open all day from 11:30 (11 Sun)

Jane takes the food you may already know and adds
special touches, subtly reinventing but not disguising
the main ingredients. Meat and salmon burgers reign
supreme, though the juicy fruit-purée cocktails give
them a run for their money. Moderate

26 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Cafe Gitane North African spices 4 E4
242 Mott Street (at Prince St.) • 212 334 9552
Open all day from 9 daily

French/North African offerings such as fragrant cous


cous and spicy mergüez sausages draw the area’s
fashionable youth. In summer, the sidewalk tables
are hotter commodities than the designer sandals in
the neighboring boutiques, but the cozy dining room
holds plenty of charm too. Cheap

Cafe Habana Cuban/Mexican café 4 E4


17 Prince Street (at Elizabeth St.) • 212 625 2001
Open all day from 9 daily

Flavorful specialties from this bustling corner café


inspire devotion among Nolita’s beautiful people,
who eye one another over delicious Cuban pork
sandwiches, huevos rancheros, and corn on the cob.
Quench your thirst with a chelada: Mexican lager with
lime juice and salt. Cheap

Bereket late-night Turkish belly-filler 4 F4


187 East Houston Street (at Orchard St.) • 212 475 7700
Open 24 hours daily

Rare is the downtown resident who, after a night of


barhopping, hasn’t relished the succulent lamb
shawarma sandwich, fresh hummus or tangy, stuffed
vine leaves at this East Houston institution. For what
is essentially a Turkish fast-food restaurant, Bereket
offers surprisingly subtle, authentic eats. Cheap

The Elephant French/Thai fusion 4 F4


58 East 1st Street (between 1st & 2nd Sts) • 212 505 7739
www.elephantrestaurant.com
Open lunch & dinner daily

Reds and golds dominate the whimsical, evocatively


lit dining room, where couples sip luscious Elephant
Martinis – vodka, cassis, and pineapple. Don’t miss
Sticky Rice – chicken and pork steamed with rice and
vegetables in lotus leaf wrapping. Moderate

For a listing of restaurants by cuisine, see pp220–23 27


Restaurants
’inoteca great small plates 4 F4
98 Rivington Street (at Ludlow St.) • 212 614 0473
Open breakfast, lunch, & dinner daily

A happening corner wine bar/restaurant, ’inoteca is


perfect for a few glasses while you munch on a
selection of snacks, known as “small plates.” These
include cheeses, a generous helping of sliced meats,
panini, and salads. Weather permitting, you can sit
outside for high-caliber people-watching. Moderate

WD-50 adventurous American 4 G4


50 Clinton Street (between Rivington & Stanton Sts)
• 212 477 2900
www.wd-50.com Open dinner daily

Chef Wylie Dufresne built his reputation on taking


risks, and you can try some of his delicious
experiments in this simple, clean restaurant. Rabbit
sausage with avocado or lamb with hibiscus-date
purée are typical attention-grabbers. Expensive

Cube 63 unique sushi in a stylish setting 4 G4


63 Clinton Street (between Rivington & Stanton Sts)
• 212 228 6751
www.cube63.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

Having worked in top sushi kitchens, brothers Ken


and Ben Lau bring priceless expertise into their sleek
restaurant. Mellow light illuminates the sushi counter,
while young professionals share omakase: a sampler
platter of wildly creative rolls. Moderate

Alias deceiving appearance; convincing menu 4 G4


76 Clinton Street (at Rivington St.) • 212 505 5011
Open dinner daily (to 11 Mon–Thu, to 11:30 Fri & Sat, to 10 Sun)

Don’t let the kitsch signage mislead you; there’s no


spam on the menu. Alias serves imaginative dishes,
including lamb spare ribs, duck confit, and candied
avocado. It’s one of the places that has made the
Lower East Side a destination for eclectic dining. The
prix fixe Sunday menu is a bargain. Moderate

28 Check New York’s best places for global food on www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Le Souk North African dining 4 G3
47 Avenue B (between 3rd & 4th Sts) • 212 777 5454
www.lesoukny.com Open dinner daily

With the arrival of trendy restaurants, boutiques, and


bars in recent years, Alphabet City (easternmost part
of the East Village) has seen its profile rise consider-
ably. But the neighborhood conceals some of its best
assets behind a gritty urban cloak. Le Souk is a fine
example of this – a fantastic North African restaurant
that, externally, does little to distinguish itself from
the surrounding neighborhood grocers and bars. An
unassuming shell, however, belies a sultan’s treasure
trove of African textures, tones, and delicacies within.
Fashionable groups dine shoulder to shoulder on
plush banquettes, while the adjacent bar area has low,
Moorish tables, floor pillows, and softly lit iron lan-
terns. Meze plates serve as a prelude to the arrival of
ceramic tajines filled with aromatic cous cous, tangy
mergüez sausages, and garlicky mussels. After 9pm,
belly dancers gyrate between the tables. Moderate

Bao 111 modern design meets Vietnamese food 4 G3


111 Avenue C (between 7th & 8th Sts) • 212 254 7773
www.bao111.com Open dinner daily

Architect/chef Michael Huynh prepares brilliant


Vietnamese cuisine in this sleek space of his own
design. Diners – many of them artists and fashion
models – rest on crimson banquettes sipping fragrant
pho soup or browsing Bao’s eclectic dessert menu.
Black sesame ice cream, anyone? Cheap

Le Tableau French/Mediterranean cuisine 4 F3


511 East 5th Street (between Aves A & B) • 212 260 1333
www.letableaunyc.com Open dinner daily

Wonderful French food in a button-sized hot spot.


The menu changes often, but the produce is
consistently flavorful, with dishes such as pork loin
with maple yam purée, gorgonzola, and porto
reduction. Try the early evening prix-fixe three-course
menu for super savings. Moderate

29
Restaurants
Pylos taverna in Alphabet City 4 F3
128 East 7th Street (between 1st & A Aves) • 212 473 0220
www.pylosrestaurant.com
Open dinner Mon–Sun, brunch Wed–Sun

Many worlds lie within eight blocks of the 2nd Avenue


subway station: the Orthodox Jewish Lower East Side,
Ukrainian East Village, and Chinatown, for example.
Most surprising of all, however, is the spirit of the
Aegean that hides amid Alphabet City’s hard-rocking
bars. Pylos is a handsome Greek taverna, with stucco
walls, blue shutters, and earthenware jugs hanging
from the beams. Gastronomes from all over the city
worship the dolmathes (stuffed vine leaves) here.
Another popular dish is arnaki yiovetsi – stewed lamb
chunks redolent of clove, oregano, and tomato, served
on toothsome orzo grains. Knowledgeable staff help
you navigate the encyclopedic Greek wine list. Save
room for the galaktobaureko – these flaky, custard-
filled phyllo triangles covered in warm honey are
perhaps Pylos’s greatest temptation. Moderate

Yaffa Cafe pita stop 4 F3


97 St. Mark’s Place (between 1st & A Aves) • 212 674 9302
Open 24 hours daily

Day and night, punk rockers and poets flock to this


offbeat eatery on St. Mark’s. After last call at the
neighborhood’s bars, Yaffa’s leafy, festively-lit back
patio fills with hungry revelers eager to curb their
impending hangovers with home-made pita,
hummus, and other tasty Middle Eastern fare. Cheap

Daily Chow casual pan-Asian dining 4 E3


2 East 2nd Street (at Bowery) • 212 254 7887
Open dinner daily

Smart dining areas and huge windows overlooking the


Bowery ensure that there’s not a bad seat in the house.
The decor has a subtle Polynesian theme, while the
menu stretches from the Pacific to mainland Asia.
Luscious coconut-flecked chicken skewers and creamy
Thai iced coffee make fantastic starters. Cheap

30 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Paul’s Palace huge hamburgers 4 E3
131 2nd Avenue (at St. Mark’s Pl.) • 212 529 3033
Open all day daily

The quintessential American hamburger experience.


From the linoleum countertop and checkerboard
tablecloths, to the cheeky burger descriptions posted
above the well-seasoned grill, Paul’s is a greasy
charmer. Go in for peerless 1/2 pound burgers and
extra thick milkshakes. Cheap

Mermaid Inn seafood, New England style 4 E3


96 2nd Avenue (between 5th & 6th Sts) • 212 674 5870
www.themermaidnyc.com Open dinner daily

With its framed nautical charts, ship diagrams, cabin


lamps, and rustic tables, this classic fish house would
seem more suited to the Maine Coast. But the modern
rock soundtrack and style-conscious local clientele
anchor the proceedings in urban bohemia. When
restaurant mogul Jimmy Bradley unveiled this oddity
on edgy Second Avenue in 2003, it was an instant hit.
The inn is extremely popular, and you’ll generally
have to wait for your table at the weekend. This is when
the seafood bar comes into its own, providing Nova
Scotia oysters on the half shell. Once seated, you can
continue with roasted mussels or feather-light clam
fritters before considering the mains. Depending on
the season, these might range from classic grilled
salmon through tender pan-fried skate wing to the
popular lobster salad sandwich. Complimentary cups
of lemon pudding cap the meal. Moderate

Morning Coffee and Afternoon Tea Mud Spot (permanently parked on 9th St.). Joe (see
New York’s plentiful “coffee shops” are great for p220), in the West Village, also does great coffee.
cheap food and people-watching, but, ironically, not The Palm Court at the Plaza Hotel serves a formal
for coffee. For a real, European-style coffee, you afternoon tea. Tea & Sympathy is cozy and casual,
need to seek out the city’s best cafés. For excellent offering freshly made scones and perfectly brewed
cappuccinos, go to Via Quadronno (see p221), and tea in mismatched china. Lady Mendl’s Tea Room is
if you want to pick up a quick espresso, stop at the rather upmarket, but their scones are divine. (For all,
orange mobile Mud Truck (on Union Square) or the see p222.) For something funkier, try Teany (see p70).

For a full list of recommended cafés, see pp220–21; for tearooms, see p222 31
Restaurants
Angelica Kitchen incredible vegetables 4 E2
300 East 12th Street (between 1st & 2nd Aves) • 212 228 2909
Open all day daily

A vegan pioneer since 1976, Angelica earns high


marks for cooking with extremely fresh ingredients
grown using sustainable methods. This would be
reason enough to lure environmentally-aware citizens
to the charming, Tuscan farmhouse-inspired dining
room. Yet Angelica’s greatest asset is perhaps the
chef’s ability to coax dazzling flavors out of the most
basic ingredients. Omnivores will be hard-pressed to
note the absence of cream in a rich butternut squash
soup, or bemoan the missing corned beef in a warm
tempeh (a soybean preparation) Reuben sandwich.
Vegan approximations of American classics are on
the menu alongside such exotica as hiziki and kombu
(Japanese seaweeds), and daikon (a root), which
bolster the Kinpira salad. Service is friendly and,
should you be ignorant of the virtues of edame (salted
soybeans), refreshingly non-condescending. Cheap

Sobaya noodle seduction 4 E2


229 East 9th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves)
• 212 533 6966
Open lunch & dinner daily

The menu explains that soba buckwheat noodles


contain vitamins and protein, and are especially good
to eat after drinking alcohol. Well, if that doesn’t
explain the crowds, then it must be the authentic
Japanese flavors. Big bowls of stomach-pleasing
noodle soup are the main focus, served with fresh
scallions and your choice of extras, such as
vegetables, duck, tempura, and yam. Appetizers
include fried mushroom with shrimp paste, spinach
with sesame sauce, and selected sushi-style dishes.
A comprehensive sake menu offers a guide to the
level of fullness and flavor of each type.
The decor is typically Japanese in its simplicity
and sense of order. The friendly waitstaff are
generally hip Japanese transplants sporting navy
samurai bandanas on their heads. Cheap–Moderate

32 Reserve a table online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
2nd Avenue Deli kosher delicatessen 4 E2
156 2nd Avenue (at 10th St.) • 212 677 0606
www.2ndavedeli.com Open 7am–midnight

King of Manhattan’s Jewish-style delis, 2nd Avenue


has been stuffing New York bellies with towering
pastrami sandwiches, hearty matzo ball soup, and
complimentary pickled vegetables since 1954. It’s
always crowded, but lines move surprisingly fast.
Tables are communal. Moderate

Blue Ribbon Sushi the freshest fish 3 C4


119 Sullivan Street (between Prince & Spring Sts)
• 212 343 0404
Open noon–2am daily

Like its West Village brother (see below), the SoHo


outpost of Blue Ribbon obsesses over the freshness
of ingredients. Here, the main ingredient is raw fish. Try
sitting at the sushi counter rather than the popular
back room for faster service. Moderate

Blue Ribbon Bakery Old World delights 3 C4


33 Downing Street (at Bedford St.) • 212 337 0404
Open lunchtime to 2am daily (to midnight Sun)

Inside this cozy space, Village sophisticates crowd


windowside tables for European indulgences such as
foie gras, antipasti, and crusty home-made breads.
Ask to be seated downstairs in the wine cellar-like
space where diners can watch freshly baked breads
come out of the oven. Moderate

Tomoe Sushi Japanese-style delectables 3 C4


172 Thompson Street (between Bleecker & Houston Sts)
• 212 777 9346
Open all day Wed–Sat, dinner Mon (cash or Amex only)

Tomoe presents New Yorkers with some of the


freshest fish in the city. That is why, despite a lack of
atmosphere in this small sushi joint, people will line
up for as much as an hour, just to get a taste of the
“real thing.” The wait is worth it. Moderate

The best bagels in NY are sold in kosher delis 33


Restaurants
Otto Enoteca & Pizzeria huge snacks 3 D3
No. 1 5th Avenue (at 8th St.) • 212 995 9559
www.ottopizzeria.com Open all day daily

Throngs gather nightly to taste celebrity chef Mario


Batali’s hearty Italian snack foods. The thin pizzas
are grilled (not baked) and topped with a diverse
range of ingredients – anything from meatballs to
fried duck eggs. Save room for the unique, savory
gelati (ice creams) and sorbetti. Moderate

La Palapa Rockola authentic Mexican 3 C3


359 6th Avenue (at Washington Pl.) • 212 243 6870
www.lapalapa.com Open all day daily

This place debunks the myth that New York lacks


credible Mexican cuisine. The interior evokes
Mexico’s colonial heartland and cinematic Golden
Age, providing a festive backdrop for the robust
dishes. Pair fish tacos with a frosty Negra Modelo
beer and say “Hola” to heaven. Moderate

Babbo the sophistication of northern Italy 3 C3


110 Waverly Place (between MacDougal St. & 6th Ave.)
• 212 777 0303
www.babbonyc.com Open dinner daily

Babbo’s reputation as one of New York’s top Italian


restaurants is due to the quality of its menu, devised
by Mario Batali (see also Otto, above). You will need
to reserve early or ask about last-minute cancellations.
If your party agrees on a pricier meal, try the
culinary adventure of either the traditional or pasta
tasting menus. However, the main menu, offering
dishes such as beef cheek ravioli and fennel-dusted
sweetbreads, is also daring and justly lauded. Take
time to peruse the wine menu or discuss the options
with the knowledgable sommelier. The Italian
selections are extensive and expertly chosen.
Despite the price tag, there’s no need to dress up –
the converted carriage house, with elegant floral
arrangements, provides the panache. You just have to
leave room for a dessert and digestivo. Expensive

34 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown

John’s of 3 C3 Yet free from that illogical mindset, visitors to John’s


Bleecker Street profound pizza are in for a supremely satisfying meal.
278 Bleecker Street (between 6th & 7th Aves) • 212 243 1680 The restaurant’s popularity means that weekend
www.johnsofbleeckerstreet.com
lunch and dinner lines extend to the next storefront,
Open lunch & dinner daily (to 1am Fri & Sat) (cash only)
but they move quickly. Once you’re inside and seated
In this city, pizzeria comparisons are a hot topic and at a weathered wooden booth, your olfactory nerves
frequently dissolve into shouting matches. Even will soon react to the unmistakable, heady waft of
politicians dare not state their position on pizza, for garlic and romano cheese. To quiet your stomach,
fear of alienating potential voters. Out of the din, start with fresh antipasti and a frosty Peroni lager.
however, one name emerges that inspires more Purists should then opt for the basic cheese and
emotion than any other: John’s of Bleecker Street. tomato pie, fresh from John’s coal-fired oven. What
John’s likes to shout about its time-honored they will be presented with is a thin, smoky, lightly
credentials: “Est. 1929” is writ large in white letters charred crust covered with a bright, slightly acidic
on its burgundy awning, and rapturous restaurant sauce, full-cream mozzarella and vibrant spices.
reviews are plastered to the window. For some New Non-purists can choose from garlicky meatballs and
Yorkers, who believe a great pizzeria should be other tempting home-made toppings. Once you’ve
unknown to all but the savviest subway riders, John’s chomped your way through a pie, you’ll be able to
very accessibility and fame are sufficient reasons to establish your own position in a debate on New
eliminate it from any discussion of the city’s best. York’s explosive topic. Cheap

35
Restaurants
Cones superior ices 3 C3
272 Bleecker Street (between Morton & Jones Sts)
• 212 414 1795 Open 1–11 Sun–Thu, 1–1 Fri & Sat (cash only)

What compels a man to drive two hours from Upstate


New York to the Village with an empty portable freezer
plugged into his car’s dash, only to drive straight
home again after filling it? Simply this: hand-packed
quarts of the best ice cream in the state. True story.
Looking at Cones, there is little to indicate what
might stir such passion. It’s a tidy parlor, with a few
tables and photos of unremarkable sundaes on the
walls. But the real show is in the freezer: 32 steel bins
brimming with kaleidoscopically colored creams and
sorbets, in the tradition of authentic Italian gelaterias.
Dulce de leche and coffee mocha are deliciously rich,
whereas tangy fruit sorbets and dairy-free ices
present a lighter antidote to the summer swelter. This
is why Cones’ acclaim stretches from New York to its
owners’ native Argentina. Still undecided? Brothers
Raul and Oscar readily offer tastings. Cheap

BB Sandwich Bar cheesesteak perfected 3 C3


120 West 3rd Street (between 6th Ave. & Macdougal St.)
• 212 473 7500 Open 10:30–10 daily

Gary Thompson claims he prepares the best cheese-


steak in the city, and the length of the lunch line at
his small, upstairs sandwich counter confirms this is
no mere boast. Thinly sliced steak is placed on a puffy
Kaiser roll, then topped with marinated onions, spicy
tomato relish and white American cheese. Cheap

Food on the Hoof watching life’s rich pageant in Washington Square


Many downtown snack stops cater to people with Park. For late-night barhoppers, Crif Dogs offers
bite-sized budgets and a desire to keep moving. sustenance in the form of Chihuahua hot dogs
Irresistible pork and vegetarian wontons can be had (wrapped in bacon and topped with avocado and
in the Lower East Side’s Fried Dumpling. West sour cream). Or draw a barrage of envious glances
Villagers swear by Mamoun’s fresh, crispy falafel on Second Avenue with a paper funnel full of fries
and tangy hummus, and Pepe Rosso’s bright, from Pommes Frites, topped with any of their 25
delicious Italian specialties. Eat them while tasty sauces. For all addresses, see pp210–11.

36 Browse reviews at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
NY Dosas cheap veggie manna 3 C3
West 4th Street & Sullivan Street • 917 710 2092
Open 11–5 Mon–Sat

Even on blustery winter days, NYU students line up at


this vending cart at the southwest corner of Washing-
ton Square for heavenly vegetarian dosas. The south
Indian crêpes are filled with root vegetables, chickpeas,
and spices, resulting in something far too delicate to
be classified merely as “street food.” Cheap

Mary’s Fish Camp chowder heaven 3 B3


64 Charles Street (at West 4th St.) • 646 486 2185
www.marysfishcamp.com
Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

Mary’s seafood chowder, and lobster and clam rolls


are equal to the best of any New England oceanside
restaurant. Add to this the atmosphere of rustic charm,
and you see why customers are lured to this tiny space,
if necessary waiting outside for tables. Moderate

Wallsé august Austrian fare 3 A3


344 West 11th Street (at Washington St.) • 212 352 2300
www.wallse.com Open dinner Mon–Sun, brunch Sat–Sun

Opened by chef Kurt Gutenbrunner in 2000, Wallsé


has developed a devoted following. The two-room
restaurant has a restful feel, with white linen table-
cloths, pale walls, and carefully chosen art work.
Many of the clientele are regulars, giving the place an
easy-going West Village vibe.
In accordance with Austria’s gastronomic traditions,
Gutenbrunner produces richly flavored dishes.
Besides his famed Wiener schnitzel, other notable
dishes include beef goulash with herbed spaetzle (a
noodle side dish), apple strudel, and rosti (a potato
and onion side dish) with lobster.
Wallsé also attracts a die-hard band of smokers
too, due to its policy of lending all puffing customers
beautifully tailored, bright red capes to wear during
their stint outside in the cool night air. Expensive

Wallsé’s sister establishment, Café Sabarsky at 86th and 5th Avenue, serves excellent coffee and cakes 37
Restaurants
Florent 24/7 camp 3 A2
69 Gansevoort Street (between Greenwich & Washington Sts)
• 212 989 5779
www.restaurantflorent.com Open 24 hours daily (cash only)

There’s no better place than this for moules frites at


3am. Florent also offers great home-made soups and
a superb weekend brunch. The clientele ranges from
daytime workers to outrageously dressed clubbers.
Changing messages over the bar will amuse. Moderate

Sumile great fish – raw and cooked 3 C2


154 West 13th Street (between 6th & 7th Aves)
• 212 989 7699
www.sumile.com Open dinner daily

A chic Japanese joint. Chef Josh DeChellis creates


innovative dishes, such as tea-smoked eel and black
sesame paste with raspberries. The cocktails are
fruity and fun, and the menu changes seasonally.
There’s not a grain of rice in the house! Expensive

Tartine bijou bistro 3 B2


253 West 11th Street (at W. 4th St.) • 212 229 2611
Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sat,
brunch Sat & Sun, (cash only)

On a prime corner location that’s great for people-


watching, Tartine serves consistently delicious light
French fare. Croissants are super-buttery, the savory
tarts are divine, and the weekend brunch is one of the
best deals in town. There’s a BYOB policy. Cheap

Dining Institutions Johnson and features Lichtenstein lithographs.


Whether for food, tradition, location, or ambience, Chanterelle in Tribeca has been offering classic
some classic restaurants in New York just can’t be French and innovative Franco-American cuisine since
ignored. Nobu is renowned for celebrity-spotting 1979. For a more casual feel, with first-rate food to
and the chef’s tasting menu of creative sushi. The boot, Gramercy Tavern is another favorite, serving
Four Seasons has been serving Continental cuisine New American cuisine in relaxed surroundings.
to those with deep pockets since 1959. The space Finally, Tavern on the Green does great brunches.
was designed by Mies van der Rohe and Philip For individual restaurant details, see pp220–22.

38 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown & Midtown
City Bakery pastries & chocolate 3 C1
3 West 18th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 366 1414
Open 7am–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 9–5:30 Sun

City Bakery leaves every customer contented. Its


salad bar is arguably New York’s best, and it also has
a huge selection of flaky breakfast pastries, tarts, and
decadent tortes. Linger over one of their superb hot
chocolates – irresistible with a big home-made
marshmallow floating in the froth. Cheap

Union Square Café NY favorite 3 D1


21 East 16th Street (between 5th Ave. & Union Sq. West)
• 212 243 4020
Open lunch Mon–Sat and dinner daily

Rated as one of New York’s favorite restaurants, USC


delivers New American cuisine in a relaxed ambience,
augmented by fresh flowers and a spacious feel.
Always crowded, reserve a table early or try for a
space at the bar. Go for the daily specials. Expensive

Red Cat creative cuisine in a funky place 5 B5


227 10th Avenue (between 23rd & 24th Sts) • 212 242 1122
www.theredcat.com
Open dinner daily

Red Cat’s funky decor, fabulous food, and seamless


service round off perfectly an afternoon spent gallery-
hopping. Creative dishes might include chicken with
sugarplum and sweet onion sauce, or risotto fritters
with blueberry compote. Moderate

Grand Sichuan 5 C5
International bad decor, great food
229 9th Avenue (at 24th St.) • 212 620 5200
Open all day daily

In style-obsessed Chelsea, this rarity attracts a loyal


crowd on the merits of its food alone. For while the
decor is stark, the Chinese cuisine is excellent. Try
whole fried fish, garlicky sautéed spinach, and
addictive pork and vegetable dumplings. Cheap

39
Restaurants
Biltmore Room plush atmosphere 5 C5
290 8th Avenue (between 24th & 25th Sts) • 212 807 0111
www.thebiltmoreroom.com Open dinner daily

An entrance through thick velvet curtains adds an air


of exclusivity to the Biltmore Room. Beyond the
threshold lies a swanky bar and stylish dining room.
The bar has its own scene, and people often come
just to sip signature cocktails such as the Gin Blossom
(infused with basil and combined with elderflower
syrup). In the dining area – a mixture of gentlemen’s-
club tradition and something far more chic –
chandeliers hang from the high ceiling and mirrors
amplify the grandeur. Subtle lighting and funky music
create a warm mood, and orchids add color.
The attentive staff serve dishes with Asian and
Middle Eastern influences, including Algerian spiced
lamb, miso-marinated Alaskan cod, and giant prawns
wrapped in crispy noodles with avocado and tomato
salad and mango salsa. The warm chocolate tart is
not to be missed. Expensive

Bolo more than paella 6 E5


23 East 22nd Street (between Broadway & Park Ave. S.)
• 212 228 2200
www.bolorestaurant.com Open lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily

Bolo creates modern interpretations of some of the


best traditional Spanish dishes. The menu features
inventive tapas, black squid ink risotto, and egg
tortilla with goat cheese. There’s a bar, and the
atmosphere is upbeat. Good lunch deals. Expensive

Tabla Indian fusion 6 E5


11 Madison Avenue (at 25th St.) • 212 889 0667
Open lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily

Fusing New American and Indian cuisine, Tabla


presents dishes such as Goan spiced crab cake and
tandoori breads using inventive flavors. A striking
staircase divides the colorful formal upstairs dining
room from the downstairs Bread Bar, which offers a
less formal, slightly cheaper dining option. Expensive

40 Uptown or downtown, find a restaurant at www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown
Tamarind epicurean spices 6 F5
41–3 East 22nd Street (between Broadway & Park Ave. S.)
• 212 674 7400
www.tamarinde22.com Open lunch & dinner daily

Large glass windows, an unfussy modern interior, and


cut flowers on each table set the tone. Tamarind has
earned several prestigious culinary accolades, and its
two proud owners are often seen milling about with
diners, basking in positive feedback, no doubt.
Such openness also extends to the kitchens, which
are surrounded by glass, so you can watch the food
being prepared without getting a noseful of every dish.
House specialties include a signature dish of
tandoori scallops presented in a fried potato lattice
cup, bhagerey baignan (eggplant with coconut,
sesame, and peanut sauce), Tamarind’s chutneys,
and a home-made cheese. Lamb and lobster feature
prominently on the menu too. The Tearoom offers
sandwiches, a vast array of teas, and desserts in a
more casual, intimate environment. Moderate

Dos Caminos trendy Mexican 6 F5


373 Park Avenue South (between 26th & 27th Sts)
• 212 294 1000
www.brguestrestaurants.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri,
brunch & dinner Sat & Sun

Popular with young professionals, this large restaurant


and bar is a vibrant place for margaritas and great
Mexican fare. The famed guacamole is prepared at your
table, so you can dictate the spice factor. Moderate

Blue Smoke upscale American barbecue 6 F4


116 East 27th Street (between Park & Lexington Aves)
• 212 447 7733
www.bluesmoke.com Open lunch & dinner daily

Chef Ken Callaghan smokes spareribs, beef brisket,


organic chicken, and sausages over hickory and apple
woods, keeping meats flavorful and succulent. The
modern dining room fills with boisterous Manhattanites
nightly. Excellent beer selection. Live jazz. Moderate

41
Restaurants
i Trulli wine & pasta in a warm atmosphere 6 F4
122 East 27th Street (between Lexington & Park Ave. S.)
• 212 481 7372
www.itrulli.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat

i Trulli’s delectable cuisine is true to its roots, which


lie in the Italian region of Puglia. Specialties here
include the panelle (chickpea fritters with goat cheese)
and home-made pastas. Try a “flight of wine” (three
to taste), and sample cheeses and meats. Expensive

Mandoo Bar Top-notch Korean cooking 6 E4


2 West 32nd Street (between Broadway & 5th Ave.)
• 212 279 3075
www.mandoobar.com Open all day daily

Cooks bustle about preparing plump little mandoo –


delicate dumplings stuffed with vegetables, fish, or
meat. The salads and seafood dishes are also superb.
Avoid weekday lunchtimes when this informal place is
packed with local business people. Cheap

Artisanal cheese, please 6 F4


2 Park Avenue (entrance on 32nd Street) • 212 725 8585
www.artisanalcheese.com Open all day daily (brunch served
11–3 Sat & Sun)

The revived tradition of fondue-sharing creates a social


buzz in the high-ceilinged dining room of this bistro
and fromagerie. Various fondues are available, pre-
pared with different cheeses, herbs, and oil infusions.
Some are traditional recipes, others experimental.
Cheese is also the focus of salads, and appetizers
such as a three-cheese onion soup. A tarte tatin in a
cheddar crust continues the theme into dessert. There
are non-cheese selections – cassoulet (bean stew), or
chicken roasted “under the brick” – but choose at
least one course devoted to the star ingredient.
A requisite cheese plate takes on new meaning as
the fromagier guides you through 200-plus selections.
You can also order a “cheese and wine flight” at the
bar (three choices of each), and, of course, buy
cheese from the shop. Moderate

42 Find out about discount dining at www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown
Cho Dang Gol Korean creations 6 E3
55 West 35th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 695 8222
Open all day daily

Located in the heart of “Koreatown,” this establish-


ment is unusual in catering equally to meat-eaters,
vegans, and vegetarians. The authentic yet accessible
dishes form a perfect introduction to Korean cuisine.
Gop dol bim bab is a good one to try. With this, a
heated stone bowl is filled with rice, vegetables (or
meat), broth, spicy red paste, and an egg. You mix
the ingredients and let some of the rice crisp at the
bottom. You can also expect to receive the ban chan
– little plates of appetizers that come with any meal
and include kim chi (spicy pickled cabbage).
Cho Dang Gol is also known for its superb leek
pancakes and melt-in-your-mouth tofu (bean curd),
which is made on the premises, as is an alcoholic
drink called Makkuli. The dishes vary in spiciness –
ask the waitstaff for guidance if necessary. The
lunchtime specials are great deals. Cheap

Sandwich Planet sliced bread sensation 5 C2


534 9th Avenue (between 39th & 40th Sts) • 212 273 9768
www.sandwichplanet.com Open 10:30–8:30 daily

Despite its closet-like dimensions, this pitstop offers


a seemingly limitless choice of custom-made sand-
wiches. Should one of the five tables be available,
linger over a signature creation like the Armani: thin
prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts, and
rocket pressed between toasted foccacia. Cheap

Mi Nidito surprisingly good Mexican 5 C1


852 8th Avenue (between 51st & 52nd Sts) • 212 265 0022
Open all day daily

With its gaudy signage hawking dozens of margarita


varieties, this unassuming Hell’s Kitchen eatery is not
the most obvious place to find some of the city’s best
Mexican food. But the roasted chicken is irresistible –
crisp, succulent, and studded with garlic – and the
mango margaritas justify all the hoopla. Moderate

Smoking is illegal in all public places; some restaurants provide a separate smoking room 43
Restaurants
Churrascaria Plataforma Brazilian BBQ 5 C1
316 West 49th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves)
• 212 245 0505
www.churrascariaplataforma.com Open all day daily

Catering mainly to a post-theater crowd, this Brazilian


churrascaria is a novel and lively fixed-price barbecue.
Guests are led to tables in the capacious, elegant din-
ing room and each given a round disk – one face red,
the other green. After trips to the salad bar, the crowd
settles in for the impending meat extravaganza.
Display the disk’s green side and gracious servers
approach, wielding skewers of top-quality roasted
meats – sirloin steaks, sausages, prime rib, chicken,
and baby lamb chops – and fish such as salmon.
When your plate is full, flip the disk to red. When
you’ve emptied it, flip again to green, and repeat the
performance until your belly attains the desired level
of distension. Plataforma’s perfect caipirinha is a
refreshing, albeit potent, palette cleanser of cachaça
rum, sugar, and mint over cracked ice. Expensive

Genki Sushi sushi on the roll 6 E1


9 East 46th Street (between 5th & Madison Aves)
• 212 983 5018
Open lunch and dinner to 8:30 Mon–Fri, to 5 Sat

A conveyor belt stocked with midtown’s freshest fish


revolves through the colorful dining area. Take your
pick from plates (color-coded according to price) of
assembled rolls and succulent sashimi. Lunchtimes
are busy, so come early evening if you can. Cheap

Ess-a-Bagel classic snacks 6 F1


831 3rd Avenue (at 51st St.) • 212 980 1010
www.ess-a-bagel.com Open 6:30am–9pm daily (to 5 Sun)

This spacious midtown bagel shop bakes arguably


the city’s best example of the dense, rotund breakfast
bread. Feel free to linger over any of 14 bagel
varieties, coupled with award-winning whitefish
salad, Nova Scotia smoked salmon, eggplant salad,
or a classic spread of cream cheese. Cheap

44 For a selection of useful food-related links, visit www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown
Acqua Pazza fresh pasta, seafood & fish 8 E5
36 West 52nd Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 582 6900
www.acquapazzanyc.com
Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Acqua Pazza – “crazy water” – belies its name with


serious Italian food. Octopus, crab, and whole baked
fish are typical items on the menu. Pasta infused with
espresso is an unusual dish, harking back to the days
when coffee was used as a preservative. Expensive

Aquavit Swedish sensation 8 F5 are served alongside house specialties such as


65 East 55th Street (between Park & Madison Aves) herrings. Other favorites include seafood stew in a
• 212 307 7311
delicious dill sauce, brioche-wrapped salmon, and
www.aquavit.org
Open lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily, brunch Sun
Kobe beef ravioli. The restaurant also prepares a
beguiling gravlax and tandoori smoked salmon.
Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson, who won a Three tasting menus, including a vegetarian option,
prestigious “Best Chef in New York City” award in offer seven-course “Aquavit Bite” meals. Another way
2003, has taken the Scandinavian cuisine at this to sample many of these flavors at a little less
restaurant to new levels of gastronomic genius. It’s expense is to eat upstairs in the Aquavit Café. The
not cheap, but worth the price, especially if you sit in café’s kitchen is separate from the restaurant’s, but
the main dining room, which is in an atrium that both are overseen by the executive chef. However,
features an indoor waterfall. Swedish meatballs are available only in the café.
The eponymous aquavit is a potent Scandinavian Several house-made and unusual aquavits are
spirit, double distilled, with flavors added in the available; flavors may include black pepper and
second distillation. This and glasses of Carlsberg beer vanilla, and pear and cloudberry. Expensive

Marcus Samuelsson also oversees the AQ Café at Scandinavia House, 58 Park Avenue, near 37th Street 45
Restaurants
Town sophistication & pizzazz 8 E5
Chambers Hotel, 15 West 56th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves)
• 212 582 4445
www.townnyc.com Open breakfast, lunch & dinner daily,
brunch Sun

A fashionable restaurant with a fanciful interior and a


creative Euro-American cuisine. The menu changes
seasonally, but signature dishes include, in summer,
soft-shell crab. Expensive

Norma’s a perfect start to the day 7 D5


At Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118 West 57th St (between 6th &
7th Aves) • 212 708 7460
www.parkermeridien.com/normas
Open breakfast & lunch daily

Norma’s is a swish place, offering one of the most


luxurious breakfasts in town: freshly squeezed juice,
mango and papaya with cinnamon crêpes, mammoth
omelets, and French brioche toast. Moderate

Geisha stylish Japanese-American joint 8 E4


33 East 61st Street (between Park & Madison Aves)
• 212 813 1112 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

Don your best black outfit and blend in with the crowd
sipping cocktails while waiting for tables. The menu
focuses on seafood with Japanese flavors, such as
lobster served with asparagus and mushroom udon
noodles. Downstairs is hip and fun; upstairs is a bit
more subdued. There’s a sushi bar too. Expensive

Diner Etiquette sandwiches. Prices don’t dictate the quality of a


Diners – known as “coffee shops” within New York diner; location, longevity, menu, and staff do. Your
City limits – are part of the quintessential NY server should be courteous, but don’t get offended
experience. They are social levelers, where a poor if he/she rushes you during a busy period when
poet and a business mogul can rub elbows at the tables need to be turned over. Coffee is rarely
counter over omelets. Diner food is comfort food – strong but should always be limitless. Kitchen lingo
all-day breakfast fare, including eggs any style, as is part of the tradition: eggs are “sunny-side up” or
well as burgers, French fries, and grilled cheese “(easy) over”; rye toast is placed “whiskey down.”

46 Browse restaurants by type at www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown & Upper East Side
Serendipity 3 American staples 8 F4
225 East 60th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves) • 212 838 3531
www.serendipity3.com Open lunch & dinner daily

A favorite with Upper East Side families, Serendipity 3


is loved for its mammoth portions of American comfort
food. The chicken pot pies, juicy burgers, thick soups,
and bright salads are, however, mere preambles to
dessert: the frozen hot chocolate surely ranks among
New York’s finest creations. Cheap

March quiet elegance, gourmet food 8 H4


405 East 58th Street (between 1st Ave. & Sutton Pl.)
• 212 754 6272
www.marchrestaurant.com Open dinner daily

Superbly presented food in a renovated townhouse.


The gourmet food has a wide range of influences, but
there’s a discernible Asian accent in the use of raw
fish, soy, sesame, and dishes such as shrimp tempura.
Outdoor tables from May to October. Expensive

Mezzaluna heart-melting tiramisu 8 F2


1295 3rd Avenue (between 74th & 75th Sts) • 212 535 9600
Open lunch & dinner daily (cash or Amex only)

A lively and intimate spot for northern Italian cuisine,


Mezzaluna excels in freshly made pastas, fish dishes,
and brick-oven-baked pizzas. The creamy, light
tiramisu is one of the best you’ll find in New York.
Artistic depictions of half-moons (mezzaluna) adorn
the walls. Staff are very friendly. Moderate

Annie’s hearty brunches 8 F1


1381 3rd Avenue (between 78th & 79th Sts) • 212 327 4853
Open lunch and dinner daily (to midnight Fri & Sat)

An excellent Sunday brunch (served until 4pm) packs


young families into this warm, classic New York bistro.
Wicked Bloody Marys and generous portions are de
rigueur; omelets could accommodate two appetites.
Annie’s is also a pancake lover’s dream: wholewheat,
apple, banana, mixed berry… take your pick. Cheap

47
Restaurants
Atlantic Grill fresh fish, fresh atmosphere 8 F1
1341 3rd Avenue (between 76th & 77th Sts) • 212 988 9200
www.brguestrestaurants.com
Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, brunch & dinner Sun

To please the finicky Upper East Side inhabitants,


food, service, and atmosphere have to be of a high
order in any establishment here. So the long-standing
popularity of the Atlantic Grill attests to its culinary
credentials. The restaurant excels at well-prepared,
very fresh fish, accompanied by a good wine list, and
waitstaff who are both competent and efficient.
A sense of refined informality pervades the spacious
dining area, spread throughout two rooms. Additional
sidewalk seating is available when weather permits.
Specialties include oysters, crabcakes, lightly fried
sesame-crusted lobster roll, and barbecued mahi
mahi (a particularly succulent, slightly sweet fish).
There are also daily specials, and you can order small
plates from a sushi bar. Book ahead to reserve a
table or be prepared to wait – it’s worth it. Moderate

Candle 79 fine meat-free dining 8 F1


154 East 79th Street (between Lexington & 3rd Aves)
• 212 537 7179
www.candlecafe.com Open lunch & dinner daily

An upscale restaurant offering wonderful vegetarian


and vegan masterpieces, Candle 79 pushes the limit
of what you might expect from a meatless menu.
Many a dedicated carnivore is won over by the flavors
and textures experienced here. Inventive dishes in-
clude squash and wild mushroom risotto, and porcini-
crusted seitan (a meaty wheat protein concoction) with
garlicky greens and a wild mushroom red wine sauce.
In addition to organic wine, sake, and beer, the list
of non-alcoholic juices and tonics is heavenly. Options
such as an elderberry extract with apple and lemon,
and an orange juice, coconut, and banana smoothie
are divine. The less formal, sister business, Candle
Café (1307 3rd Avenue at 75th St; 212 472 0970), also
offers creative green food (tasty salads, wraps, and
soups) and has a juice bar at the front. Moderate

48 Reserve a table online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper East Side & Upper West Side
Sushi of Gari inspiring sushi 8 G1
402 East 78th Street (between 1st & York Aves)
• 212 517 5340
Open dinner Tue–Sun

The tasting menu at this small, simply decorated


treasure enables innovative sushi chef Masatoshi
Gari Sugio and his staff to demonstrate their mastery
over fish and seafood. An à-la-carte menu is available,
but allow the chefs to surprise and delight. Expensive

Ouest first-rate New American fare 9 B5


2315 Broadway (between 83rd & 84th Sts) • 212 580 8700
www.ouestny.com Open dinner daily, brunch Sun

Ouest is about panache in just about every detail. The


bar area is the first thing you’ll notice, with its wood-
paneled walls, shades of deep red, and old-fashioned
fans hanging from the ceiling. Beyond this is a corridor
that passes a glazed wine cellar and leads to the
main dining area. Stylish round, red-leather booths
take up most of the room, with square tables along
the periphery. There’s balcony seating too, though
this is a bit cramped and best avoided. The bright
kitchen is open for all to see, and the music adds to
the atmosphere, tending toward 20s–40s jazz.
Owner/chef Tom Valenti has been much lauded
for pleasing the palate and delighting the eye, here
and at other top New York restaurants. Highly
sophisticated dishes emerge from his kitchen, such
as the intriguingly named “truffled omelet soufflé”
with mouselline sauce, or lobster ravioli with a herb
salad. Well-sourced game and other roast meats are
typical offerings. Specials include braised lamb shanks
on Mondays and Tuesdays, and the legendary meat
loaf on a Sunday. Allow time to peruse the globe-
trotting wine list, which has won awards, or ask for
advice if the selection proves overwhelming. By
contrast, the dessert selection is short and sweet,
and includes a panna cotta that can’t be beaten.
Ouest’s superior brunch menu also wins plaudits
by offering refined breakfast food such as scrambled
egg with house-smoked sturgeon. Expensive

49
Restaurants
Picholine traditional excellence 7 C3
35 West 64th Street (between Broadway & Central Park W.)
• 212 724 8585
Open lunch Sat, dinner daily

The eponymous picholine (green olive) theme adorns


the plates and is evident in dishes such as caramelized
ribs with olive sauce. But it’s also renowned for its
cheese cart. Jackets are required in the main dining
room. The front bar is less formal. Expensive

Pasha high-class Turkish 7 C2


70 West 71st Street (between Columbus Ave. & Central Park W.)
• 212 579 8751
Open dinner daily

A sumptuous eatery fit for Ottoman royalty. The rich,


deep-red and yellow dining area is hung with vibrant
tapestries. Kebabs, stuffed vine leaves, and dozens of
other highly seasoned delights are presented by
charming waitstaff. Great pre-theater deals. Moderate

El Malecón II Caribbean specialties 9 B3


764 Amsterdam Avenue (between 97th & 98th Sts)
• 212 864 5648
Open breakfast, lunch & dinner daily

Given New York’s sizeable Dominican population, it is


not surprising that some of the best Dominican
cooking north of Miami is found here. While the
staples do not differ greatly from those used in other
Caribbean and many Central American kitchens,
nuances make all the difference. Few restaurants get
the alchemy quite so right as El Malecón II, younger
brother of the Washington Heights original. Diners
familiar with the restaurant’s namesake – the seaside
boulevard in Santo Domingo – might raise an eyebrow
at the modest dining room. But one look at the spice-
encrusted, brown skins of chickens on rotisseries will
quell doubts. A mixed crowd of ex-pat families and
students enjoys mofongo (sweet plantains mashed
with stewed pork) and asopao con longaniza (rice in
broth with spicy Spanish sausage). Cheap

50 Post a review of your favourite restaurant at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper West Side to Brooklyn
Aix inspiration from France 9 B5
2398 Broadway (at 88th St.) • 212 874 7400
www.aixnyc.com Open dinner daily, brunch Sun

The bright oranges and sky blues in this restaurant


evoke the colors of Provence. Rather than focusing on
traditional Provençal dishes, however, Chef Didier
Virot’s menu offers a wider range of creative French
fare. The star dish is halibut in a garlic cream with
oatmeal porcini cake and walnut sauce. Expensive

Symposium genuine Greek 11 B5


544 West 113th Street (between Amsterdam Ave. & Broadway)
• 212 865 1011
Open all day daily

Symposium has been serving stuffed vine leaves and


mousaka for over 20 years to its regulars. Sit in the
cozy taverna or walk through the kitchen to the
enclosed back garden. The Symposium Salad provides a
little taste of many dishes on the menu. Moderate

New Leaf Café urban renewal enterprise


Fort Tryon Park • 212 568 5323 • q “A” train to 190th Street
www.nyrp.org/newleaf
Open lunch Wed–Sat, dinner Tue–Sat, brunch & dinner Sun

All net proceeds from this café, which is set in a


converted stone house in Fort Tryon Park, go to the
restoration and maintenance of the park. Organic salad
leaves and wild salmon feature on the menu. Try to
catch the Thursday evening Jazz Night. Moderate

Noodle Pudding consistently tasty Italian 13 A3


38 Henry Street (between Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn
• 718 625 3737
Open dinner Tue–Sun (cash only)

Don’t let the name deceive you: Noodle Pudding


refers to a pasta dish, not Asian food here. Osso buco
(veal knuckle), penne arrabiata, real mozzarella, and
panna cotta feature among the Italian staples. Locals
pack this casually stylish restaurant nightly. Moderate

51
Restaurants
The River Café enchanting views & food 13 A3
1 Water Street (between Furman & Old Fulton Sts)
• 718 522 5200
www.therivercafe.com Open dinner daily, lunch Mon–Sat,
brunch Sun (formal dress required in evening)

The River Café began serving sublime food in 1977


and hasn’t looked back. In a superb setting directly
on the waterfront, with a stunning view of the
Manhattan skyline and Brooklyn Bridge, this is prob-
ably one of the most romantic dining places in the
world. Much of the seating allows diners to gaze out
at the scene together. The reputable kitchen tends to
gravitate toward unusual meats and seafood. Foie
gras, rabbit, suckling pig, and caviar might all feature
on the menu, with a token dish for vegetarians. The
Maine Lobster is a favorite. For novelty value, order
the Chocolate Marquise Brooklyn Bridge – a model in
fine chocolate. Lunch is slightly cheaper than the prix
fixe dinner. If just savoring the ambience, go for wine
and appetizers in the Terrace Room. Expensive

The Grocery a neighborhood star 13 B4


288 Smith Street (between Sackett & Union Sts)
• 718 596 3335
Open dinner Mon–Sat

The petite Grocery offers New American fare and has


long been a favorite with locals. It is praised equally
for its use of ultra-fresh ingredients and its service.
Dishes tend to be simple and flavors sing out, as in
the juicy, healthily trimmed grilled lamb. Moderate

Joya Thai spice 13 B4


215 Court Street (at Warren St.) • 718 222 3484
Open dinner daily

With its industrial-chic interior imparting a level of


SoHo sophistication to the quaint Boerum Hill/Carroll
Gardens neighborhood, Joya lures discerning
Manhattanites across the river. Young professionals
flock here for the ambience and the deftly executed
Thai dishes that rarely venture above $10. Cheap

52 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn
Park Slope Chip Shop comfort food 13 C5
383 5th Avenue (at 6th St.) • 718 CHIPSHOP
www.chipshopnyc.com Open all day daily

One of Park Slope’s most cheerful eateries is inspired


by a British phenomenon in dining. Young families
and ex-pat students pining for familiar comfort food
relish generous platters of chips, fried haddock,
crisps, curries, and fishcakes. Dessert? Fried
chocolate candy, of course. Cheap

Al Di La Venetian trattoria 13 C4
248 5th Avenue (at Carroll St.) • 718 783 4565
www.aldilatrattoria.com Open dinner daily except Tue

First-rate food served in a romantic, candlelit setting


ensures Al Di La’s devoted following. Specials include
polenta, gnocchi with fried sage, and grilled sardines.
The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so be
prepared to have a drink at a neighboring bar while
you wait for a table, or go off-peak. Moderate

Convivium Osteria splendid bistro 13 C4


68 5th Avenue (between Bergen St. & St Mark’s Ave.)
• 718 857 1833
Open dinner daily

Dim lighting and dark furnishings are a contrast to


the bright, bold flavors of the Mediterranean at this
little bistro. Pair a reasonably priced wine with
braised artichoke hearts, salt cod filets, or roast rack
of lamb. Little known outside the area… yet. Moderate

LouLou a taste of Brittany 13 C3


222 DeKalb Avenue (between Adelphi St. & Clermont Ave.)
• 718 246 0633
Open dinner daily, brunch Sat & Sun

Cozy LouLou is a great stop before or after a visit to


the Brooklyn Academy of Music (see p129). Fish,
seafood, and scrumptious crêpes are the mainstays
of a menu that focuses on the Brittany region of
France. Try the lovely back garden. Moderate

For advice on tipping in restaurants, see p233 53


Restaurants
i-Shebeen Madiba South African eaterie 13 C3
195 DeKalb Avenue (between Adelphi St. & Carlton Ave.)
• 718 855 9190
www.i-shebeen.com Open all day daily (to 1am Fri & Sat)

Part Zulu trinket shop, part rustic-style bistro, this


place is intriguing. Cosmopolitan locals come for
authentic bobotie (a curried mince bake) and potjie
bredie (meat stew in a cast iron pot). There’s outdoor
seating and live music, weather permitting. Moderate

Butta’Cup Lounge Southern-style food 13 C3


271 Adelphi Street (at Dekalb Ave.) • 718 522 1669
www.buttacuplounge.com
Open all day daily (to 2am Fri & Sat)

Sip a signature Applejack cocktail at the bar, then


relax in a leopard print-upholstered booth. Notable
main dishes include classic fried chicken and a piquant
salmon Japonaise. On weekends, the upstairs lounge
is good for DJ-spun soul and hip-hop. Moderate

DiFara Pizzeria Neapolitan pizzas


1424 Avenue J (between 14th & 15th Sts) • 718 258 1367 •
q Subway Q to Avenue J
Open all day daily (cash only)

The thin, round pizza of Naples – arguably New


Yorkers’ most beloved culinary import – is elevated to
an art form at this tiny pizzeria in the predominantly
Hasidic Jewish neighborhood of Midwood. Producing
these transcendent pies behind a cracked linoleum
countertop since 1964 is Domenico DeMarco, a master
pizzaiolo with an obsessive commitment to fresh
ingredients and the precise assembly (one blob of
creamy mozzarella at a time) of just about perfect
pizzas. Translation: you must wait for your food.
Patience is rewarded with the first bite. The robust,
basil-laced tomato sauce, crisp crust, light olive oil,
and tangy parmigiano reggiano cheese should conspire
to put words like “the best” on your lips. They should
also distract you from the smoke-stained ceiling, and
awkwardly arranged tables – just six altogether. Cheap

54 Browse these restaurants’ websites at www.enewyork.dk.com


Brooklyn
Relish classic diner 13 B2
225 Wythe Avenue (between Metropolitan Ave. & N. 3rd St.)
• 718 963 4546
Open all day daily (to 1am Fri & Sat)

Diners like this usually serve greasy, griddle-fried fare.


But Josh Cohen’s seasonal menus feature eclectic
American bistro cuisine at diner-friendly prices: think
chili-rubbed smoked ribs and tomato soup with chèvre
croutons. Locals fill the 1950s-style booths. Moderate

Planet Thailand affordable specialties 13 B2


133 North 7th Street (between Bedford Ave. & Berry St.)
• 718 599 5758
Open all day daily to 1am, to 2am Fri & Sat (cash only)

The dining room here is cavernous, with towering


windows and gray, industrial walls hung with sweep-
ing paintings by Williamsburg artists. The venturesome
and stylish nibble Thai papaya salads and Japanese
nigiri sushi between sips of warm sake. Cheap

Peter Luger Steak House sizzlers 13 C2


178 Broadway (at Driggs Ave.) • 718 387 7400
www.peterluger.com
Open all day to 9:45 daily (to 10:45pm Fri & Sat); cash only

Renowned as one of the top meat purveyors in the


country, Peter Luger has been in business since 1887,
and the generations of experience show. The decor is
no-frills, and the menu is simple. Steak – particularly
the Porterhouse – rules. Expensive

Bamonte’s old-school Italian 13 C1


32 Withers Street (between Lorimer St. & Union Ave.)
• 718 384 8831
Open all day to 10:30, except Tue

Home-made pastas and rich sauces reign supreme at


this establishment, which has been in business for
over 100 years. Wonderful photographs on the walls
and a waitstaff who look like they’ve been here almost
as long are all part of its charm. Moderate

55
shopping
New York is a famously fabulous
place to shop. Rich pickings are to
be had across the board – in the
time-honored department stores of
midtown, the designer flagships
of Fifth Avenue, and the latest little
gem to spring up in buzzing
Williamsburg. Follow the lead of
New Yorkers and shop where the
locals shop – the great delis,
bookstores and music outlets
downtown, and the funky fashion
boutiques in Harlem and Brooklyn.
TOP CHOICES – shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES FOOD HIGH FASHION

Bergdorf Goodman Dean & DeLuca Miu Miu


754 5th Avenue 560 Broadway 100 Prince Street
A bastion of understated style. The first stop for foodies. Dean & A label that’s adored for girly
Come here for high-end fashions DeLuca is a delicatessen par excel- fashions: sensuous materials,
and health treatments in the day lence, with the largest selection of beautifully cut dresses, and sexy
spa. (See p81) gourmet foods in NY. (See p65) underwear. (See p63)

www.NYSale.com Dylan’s Candy Bar Marc by Marc Jacobs


will give you the 1011 3rd Avenue 403–405 Bleecker Street
lowdown on up-and- A two-story shop that’s With men’s and women’s stores next
coming designer choc-a-bloc with sweets and door to each other, this is perfect for
sample sales. confectionery of all kinds. couples to get kitted out in Jacobs’
Cute packaging too. (See p82) effortlessly cool look. (See p72)

Barney’s New York Zabar’s INA


660 Madison Avenue 2245 Broadway 21 Prince Street
On a more modest scale than New A family-run New York institution, A treasure-house for girls who want
York’s really big stores, Barney’s is Zabar’s stock includes mouth- top-end fashions but lack the funds.
one of the least daunting places for watering cheeses, cured meats, INA stocks barely worn second-
browsing designer clothes. (See p82) and smoked fish. (See p85) hand designer clothes. (See p67)

Century 21 Magnolia Bakery Costume National


22 Cortlandt Street 401 Bleecker Street 108 Wooster Street
A bargain-hunter’s dream – despite An irresistible hoard of cakes, Typically fine Italian tailoring and a
sometimes surly service – Century muffins, and pastries is prepared timeless sense of elegance are the
21 is packed with heavily discount- daily at this Village bakery. (See p71) hallmarks of the men’s and women’s
ed designer clothes. (See p60) clothing at this store. (See p63)

Jeffrey
449 West 14th Street
The lion’s share of this popular store
is given over to shoes – from Prada
to Puma. The clothes are top-range
and expensive. (See p74)

58 Browse top shops’ websites at www.enewyork.dk.com


TOP CHOICES – shopping
VINTAGE & RETRO SHOES & ACCESSORIES COOL STORES

Housing Works Thrift Shop Felissimo


306 Columbus Avenue 10 West 56th Street
The stock is donated by the most Felissimo treats household
stylish New Yorkers, so you can find objects as works of art,
cheap design classics here. Profits exhibiting them in a five-floor
go to an AIDS charity. (See p85) shop-cum-gallery. (See p80)

Mini Minimarket Rafe Takashimaya


218 Bedford Avenue 1 Bleecker Street 693 5th Avenue
Taking its stylistic lead from 70s and Candy-colored sandals with polka-dot Asian influences are strong through-
80s leisurewear, Mini Minimarket is insoles, strappy evening shoes, and out Takashimaya’s seductive store,
full of funky little numbers for the soft, “ballet shoe” flats – Rafe’s which sells a mix of vintage furniture
girl about town. (See p88) collections are fun. (See p68) and high-tech gadgets. (See p79)

ALife Rivington Club Manolo Blahnik www.lazarshopping.com provides


158 Rivington Street 31 West 54th Street profiles of the city’s fashion designers,
This is the place to come for The doyen of high-end, super sexy along with all manner of shopping
vintage trainers – Nike Air Wovens, footwear, Manolo Blahnik designs advice and information, including a list
old-school Adidas, etc. (See p69) shoes that are very desirable, and of sales happening each month.
extremely expensive. (See p78)

Christian Louboutin Flight 001


941 Madison Avenue 96 Greenwich Avenue
A beautiful, Parisian-style shop, Be the coolest person on the plane
with a selection of elegant with your own in-flight travel kit and
shoes for wealthy Upper East maybe a mobile spice rack to liven
Siders. (See p83) up the airline food. (See p72)

Blades Board & Skate Isa


120 West 72nd Street 88 North 6th Street, Brooklyn
If you want to get around Central Street fashions are mixed with
Park with more speed and style, get funky beats supplied by DJs. This is
your inline skates here. (See p84) a place to hang out, chill out, and
buy some cool duds. (See p89)

59
Shopping
Century 21 discount designer duds 1 D3
22 Cortlandt Street (between Church St. & Broadway)
• 212 227 9092
www.c21stores.com
Open 7:45–8 Mon–Fri (to 8:30 Thu), 10–8 Sat, 11–7 Sun

This is a goldmine of a department store, so don’t let


the aggressive crowds scare you away. The discounted
designer men’s and women’s clothes, shoes, make-
up, and linens on offer will make the occasional
elbow in the ribs well worth the hassle.
The women’s shoe department tends to be the
busiest and most chaotic, due to weekly shipments
from the likes of Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana,
and Marc Jacobs. The top floor is the jewel in the
crown, though: it stocks the collections of designers
such as Armani, Missoni, and Ralph Lauren, but at a
fraction of the price you’d pay at the Madison Avenue
flagship stores. The only downside to this heavenly
situation is the service (often brusque), long lines,
and communal dressing rooms.

Kate Spade Travel stylish accessories 3 C5


59 Thompson Street (between Broome & Spring Sts)
• 212 965 8654
www.katespade.com Open 11–7 Tue–Sat, 12–6 Sun

Luxury coupled with whimsy are the key ingredients


here. Nylon and leather weekend bags, personalized
stationery, and vintage travel books from the 1960s
make browsing a delight. (How the beautifully crafted
luggage will withstand check-in is another matter.)

Hotel Venus by Patricia 3 D5


Field Cirque du Soleil meets S&M clothing
382 West Broadway (between Broome & Spring Sts)
• 212 966 4066
www.patriciafield.com Open 11–7 daily (to 8 Thu, Sat)

Patricia Field – costume designer for the HBO sitcom


Sex and the City – has designed this store to give free
rein to her fantasies. Hip girls, transvestites, and circus
performers will find something to make them smile.

60 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Keiko bikinis & maillots 3 D5
62 Greene Street (between Broome & Spring Sts) • 212 226 6051
www.keikonewyork.com
Open 11–6 Mon–Fri, noon–6 Sat, 1–6 Sun

Take some of the anxiety away from swimsuit shop-


ping with Keiko’s wide choice of colors and styles,
which ranges from boy-shorts to string bikinis. The
assistants will help you find the perfect fit and ensure
you’ll be a head-turner at the beach.

Pearl River Mart Far Eastern treasures 3 D5


477 Broadway (between Grand & Broome Sts) • 212 431 4770
www.pearlriver.com Open 10–7:30 daily

It has never been easier or more fun to get lost in a


store. This three-story shrine to everything Asian feels
like a cross between a flea market (yes, the prices are
that good) and an exotic department store. The elegant
Chinese robes, traditional Mandarin dresses,
slippers, embroidered bags, and purses would be
triple the price in a more conventional store. The
simple ceramic bowls and delicate Japanese tea sets
are also the same as those found in pricey boutiques.
The kitchen department offers everything you need
to prepare an authentic Asian meal: teas, spices, and
sauces are available in bewildering quantities.
Among the bathroom products are herbal remedies
and beauty treats galore. Many of the exquisite
Chinese wedding items make stunning accessories or
gifts. There’s also a selection of cute and colorful
kids’ clothes, shoes, and toys.
Gifts and novelty items range from funky alarm
clocks and butterfly-shaped kites to windchimes, and
there’s a selection of fascinating traditional musical
instruments. This is not to mention the lanterns, the
stationery, the bedding, the homewares, and
thousands of other items that will make you suddenly
feel as if you’ve developed adult attention deficit
disorder. A word to the wise: if time is of the essence,
get here early before the crowds, and keep an eye on
the clock – one could easily while away an entire day
at the Pearl River Mart and barely notice.

61
Shopping
Helmut Lang luxurious minimalist clothes 3 D5
80 Greene Street (between Spring & Broome Sts) • 212 925 7214
www.helmutlang.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, 12–6 Sun

Splashing out on an outfit from Helmut Lang will


reward you for years to come, as the clothes are
perennially stylish. This designer epitomizes the world’s
image of New York chic: basic blacks, whites, and
neutrals, in designs that work equally well for a SoHo
art opening or a downtown club. Perfumery is at 81.

Le Corset by Selima luxe lingerie 3 C5


80 Thompson Street (between Broome & Spring Sts) • 212 334
4936 Open 11–7 Mon–Fri, 11–8 Sat, noon–7 Sun

The great and the good, from Yoko Ono to Sir Ben
Kingsley, have been spotted inside this closet-sized
lingerie store. Underwear by Roberto Cavalli and
kimonos (new and vintage) will tempt the temptress
in you. The hand-dyed corsets are so beautiful that
many buyers use them as outerwear.

Barney’s CO-OP hipster clothing 3 D4


116 Wooster Street (between Prince & Spring Sts) • 212 965
9964 Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

If no-brainer shopping is what you’re after, then look


no further than this wild-child of Barney’s New York
(see p82), the city’s bastion of good style and taste.
The CO-OP’s eclectic mix of trendy clothes for young-
ish shoppers takes the Barney’s brand in a hipper
direction. A vast stockpile of jeans (from Seven to
Levi’s) for men and women guarantees that you’ll find
the perfect fit. Other lines – such as Theory, Marc by
Marc Jacobs, and Prada Sport – mingle with upscale
labels and 1970s-inspired athletic gear from the likes
of Puma and Adidas. The handmade hats, funky
watches, jewelry, and shoes are quirky enough to
warrant more than a second glance – in fact, it’s
almost impossible to make a bad purchase here.
What’s more, wearing clothes from Barney’s CO-OP is
sure to increase your likelihood of getting through the
velvet ropes at New York’s hot night spots.

62 Shop online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Clio whimsical home accessories 3 C4
92 Thompson Street (between Prince & Spring Sts)
• 212 966 8991
www.clio-home.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

The focus is on up-and-coming homeware designers


from around the world. Unique pieces, such as a walnut
cheese board with turquoise inlay, can be found
among handblown glassware. Look for the Rehabilitat-
ed Dinnerware line of revamped vintage serving platters.

Costume National sleek clothes 3 D4


108 Wooster Street (between Prince & Spring Sts) • 212 431 1530
www.costumenational.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Ennio Capasa’s collection of streamlined clothes for


men and women includes pieces you’ll want in your
closet forever because of their enduring style. The
Italian designer’s perfectly tailored jackets and skirts
appear edgy yet elegant, and each season’s shoe
collection offers sexy heels and urban-style flats.

Kirna Zabate wearable avant-garde 3 D4


96 Greene Street (between Prince & Spring Sts) • 212 941 9656
www.kirnazabete.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Every item here seems to be letting you in on a fashion


secret, hinting at what is absolutely “of-the-moment.”
The two-story boutique is a hot spot for industry
insiders, who love the drama of finding Jean Paul
Gaultier next to unknown indie labels. Accessories for
babies and dogs make the store even more delightful.

Miu Miu off-beat elegance 3 D4


100 Prince Street (between Mercer & Greene Sts) • 212 334 5156
www.miumiu.com Open 11–7 Mon-Fri, noon–6 Sat & Sun

This flagship store has major browse appeal due to


its energetic and flirty designs. While the craftsmanship
of parent company Prada can be seen in the details,
a let-your-hair-down attitude gives the clothes verve.
Miu Miu’s fashions may not be cheap, but wearing a
shirt that makes you feel happy is priceless.

63
Shopping
Moss museum-worthy designs 3 D4
146 Greene Street (between Prince & W. Houston Sts)
• 212 204 7100
www.mossonline.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

This store pleases die-hard design fans as well as


those who just love pretty things. Step into a world of
modern furniture, retro lighting, and Moser crystal.
While many items are ludicrously expensive, others,
like the Lomo cameras are reasonably priced.

Marc Jacobs fashion’s golden boy 3 D4


163 Mercer Street (between Prince & W. Houston Sts)
• 212 343 1490
www.marcjacobs.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Given that writer/film director Sophia Coppola is


Jacobs’ muse, it’s not surprising that every item in
his store has effortless, super-cool style. From his
coveted leather bags to retro-style dresses, jackets,
and shoes, there is little that won’t please the eye.

Prada vast flagship store 3 D4


575 Broadway (at Prince St.) • 212 334 8888
www.prada.com Open 11–7, noon–6 Sun

Prada’s 24,000-sq-ft flagship in the heart of SoHo may


have become as overexposed as a pop princess’s
midriff, but that doesn’t mean we won’t keep looking.
The elegantly futuristic store, designed by Dutch
architect Rem Koolhaas, retains the flavor of an art
space (the building used to be the downtown arm of
the Guggenheim Museum), and will entice travelers
to visit just to witness architectural history in the
making. Koolhaas included so many technologically
advanced gadgets that even science and technology
magazines covered the store opening.
As for the clothes, they remain beautiful examples
of elegance reinterpreted. For women, the designs do
not slavishly follow fashions, but assuredly set their
own trends. The men’s shoes – with the signature red
stripe on the sole of the Prada Sport line – are
staples that never lose their popularity.

64 For tips on tax-free shopping, visit www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Scoop high fashion 3 D4
532 Broadway (between Prince & Spring Sts) • 212 925 2886
www.scoopnyc.com Open 11–8 Mon–Sat, noon–7 Sun

The price tags may elicit a tiny (involuntary) gasp, but


one piece will go a long way in building a great
wardrobe. While the store caters mainly to sample-
size fashionistas who don’t balk at maxing out their
credit cards for a poncho, it’s a great place to come for
the most sought-after pieces from each season.

Dean & DeLuca a gourmet’s mecca 3 D4


560 Broadway (at Prince St.) • 212 226 6800
www.deandeluca.com Open 9–8 Mon–Sat, 10–7 Sun

Should there be a perfect way to stack mangoes,


display passion fruit, and organize juice bottles
according to the laws of color theory, then Dean &
DeLuca will find it. This Aladdin’s cave of a gourmet
store carries top-quality produce, be it fresh, cured,
made locally, or flown in from distant shores. All the
produce looks wonderfully wholesome and good.
Spices are clearly chosen with care, and the bottles of
olive oil from Italy are almost too beautiful to open.
And one of the best things about shopping here is
that there are always free tasters to sample.
Each department carries delicacies from around the
world. The cheese section stocks an ample selection
of Goudas and Bries, as well as more exotic delights,
such as Brillo de Treviso (a sweet cheese from Italy
that is dipped in wine). There are also fine American
cheeses, such as the creamy goat’s cheese Humbolt
Fog. The seafood department carries sushi-grade
tuna, and the bakery produces tasty numbers such as
Portuguese corn bread – it’s good enough to make
you throw out the low-carb lifestyle for good.
Head to the back of the store for every type of
kichen appliance you never knew you needed, from
sushi trays and crème brûlée dishes to mixers, suede
oven mitts, and cedar grilling planks (they keep food
moist, apparently). And, lest you become over-
whelmed by the choice of food on offer, there is an
entire library of cookbooks to help sort things out.

Dean & DeLuca has a great in-store café for takeaway pastries and coffee (see p13) 65
Shopping
Kate’s Paperie stationery with panache 3 D4
561 Broadway (at Prince St.) • 212 941 9816
www.katespaperie.com Open 10–8 Mon–Sat, 11–7 Sun

Luddites who prefer the tactile pleasures of pen and


paper to the ease of electronic mail should check out
Kate’s for all their stationery needs. Quirky thank-you
cards, giant leather-bound photo albums, fountain
pens, stamps, and tactile handmade paper sold by
the sheet are here in abundance.

The Apartment dream apartment loot 3 D4


101 Crosby Street (between Prince & Spring Sts)
• 212 219 3661
www.theapt.com Open Mon–Fri by appt only

Once you enter this experimental design studio set


up to look like a real apartment, you may have
difficulty returning to your own abode. Every aspect of
The Apartment has been put together with an eye for
what is both minimalist and sensuous. From the
multicolored broom in the kitchen to the Philippe
Starck fixtures in the bathroom to the Edith Mezard
linens on the bed – everything exudes exemplary
design. And, of course, everything you see is for sale:
the clothes in the closet, the toothpaste in the
bathroom, even the food in the fridge. The point of it
all? To emphasize that by putting objects in a real
setting, design becomes more accessible. The
Apartment also hosts happenings, events, works with
major corporations on brand development, and can
be hired to re-style private and commercial spaces.

Rescue Nail Spa velvet-rope nail spa 4 E5


21 Cleveland Place (between Kenmare & Spring Sts)
• 212 431 3805
www.rescuebeauty.com Open 11–8 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat

Ji Baek – the super-stylish owner – has put together


NY’s most hip beauty salon. As well as pedicures and
manicures, Rescue offers many other treatments and
all the lotions and potions associated with top-notch
aromatherapy, massage, waxing, and brow-shaping.

66 For useful shopping links, see www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
SCO customized skincare 3 D4
584 Broadway, 5th Floor (between Prince & Houston Sts)
• 866 966 7268
www.scocare.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat

Giant test tubes of pure infusions stand sentinel at


the entrance to this tiny, bright, and crisply decorated
skincare shop. SCO stands for Skin Care Options, and
the products – which include facial cleansers, tonics
and creams, a lip balm, body scrubs and polishes –
are universal to all skin types. The infusions are used
to customize them to each person’s needs.
The consultant will ask you a series of health-
related questions, then mix up a product appropriate
to your requirements, choosing from more than 20
natural ingredients: caffeine for toning and tightening
skin; vitamins A, C, and E for helping skin renewal;
willow bark for its antiseptic properties, and many
more. Products are packaged in elegant bottles. Your
prescription is filed for repeat orders, and any
changes in skin condition can be accommodated.

INA runway cast-offs 4 E4


21 Prince Street (between Mott & Elizabeth Sts)
• 212 334 9048
www.inanyc.com Open noon–7 daily (to 8 Fri & Sat)

Ever longed for Prada heels but just couldn’t afford


them? You can find designer goods at a fraction of the
original price at this store for girls with high-end tastes
but low budgets. Many clothes are brand new, and
models sometimes bring in just-off-the-catwalk items.

Calypso hip hippy beachwear 4 E4


280 Mott Street (between Prince & Houston Sts)
• 212 965 0990
www.calypso-celle.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–7 Sun

This famously chic store carries clothes for the girl


who spends half the year in Spain’s Ibiza and the
other half in the Caribbean’s St. Barth’s. Every item
here oozes bohemian beach luxury. Peasant skirts,
colorful silk tops, and sandals lend a tropical appeal.

67
Shopping
Hable Construction beautiful interiors 4 E4
230 Elizabeth Street (between Prince & Houston Sts)
• 212 343 8555
www.hableconstruction.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun

The Hable sisters named their company after their


grandfather’s construction business. But instead of
building houses, they design pretty, practical things.
The canvas pillows, printed boxes, beach towels, and
garden accessories will add a dash of fun to any home.

Mayle dressing up for real life 4 E4


242 Elizabeth Street (between Prince & Houston Sts)
• 212 625 0406
Open noon–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Jane Mayle’s vintage-style, super-sexy clothes are on


every young Hollywood starlet’s must-have list. Actress
Kirsten Dunst (of Spiderman fame) is among the many
fans of Mayle’s slip dresses, girly blouses, and slouchy
pants. Collection now includes raved-about shoes.

Rafe eye-catching modern handbags 4 E4


1 Bleecker Street (at Bowery) • 877-7Rafeny
www.rafe.com
Open noon–7 Mon–Thu & Sat, noon–8 Fri

Designer Ramon Felix creates glamorous bags and


shoes that transport the imagination. His straw-and-
leather Corsica bag looks like something Audrey
Hepburn could have held, and the St. Germain clutch
is pure Parisian chic. There are bags for men too.

Bond 07 by Selima neo-bohemian looks 3 D3


7 Bond Street (between Broadway & Lafayette St.)
• 212 677 8487
www.selimaoptique.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–7 Sun

Selima Salaun, known for her optical wear, is behind


this NoHo boutique, which caters to women who favor
unusual styles. An eclectic selection of bags, hats,
dresses, and, of course, glasses; Ashish, Cacharel,
and Tsumori Chisato are among the designers.

68 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
LAFCO highly coveted beauty products 4 E4
285 Lafayette Street (between Prince & Jersey Sts)
• 212 925 0001
www.lafcony.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat (to 8 Thu),
noon–6 Sun (closed on Sun in summer)

LAFCO sells exclusive beauty products, including the


creams and tonics of Lorenzo Villoresi. This is also the
NY base for the entire range of Santa Maria Novella, a
coveted Italian skincare line.

TG-170 clothes that epitomize downtown cool 4 F4


170 Ludlow Street (between Houston & Stanton Sts)
• 212 995 8660
www.tg170.com Open noon–8 daily

If you’ve ever wondered what the cutting-edge kids


wear to hip Lower East Side parties, TG-170 will let you
in on the secret. The shop stocks small quantities of
choice clothes and accessories. Owner Terri Gillis is
often here to sort out shoppers’ style dilemmas.

ALife Rivington Club sneaker joint 4 G4


158 Rivington Street (at Clinton St.) • 212 375 8128
http://rivingtonclub.com Open noon–7 Tue–Sat

If an exquisite pair of retro trainers is what you’re


after, you need to be willing to put up with a few
headaches. To begin with, ALife pretends not to want
to be found – there is no sign out front, and you must
ring a doorbell to enter. Such discretion may give you
the impression that you’ve intruded on a members-
only club – in fact, their business cards say
“members only.” But this is all retail theater, and
once you’re inside the wood-paneled shop any
misgivings you have will soon be forgotten.
The knockout shoes are individually displayed, each
allotted its own back-lit mahogany shelf space, like a
row of rare finds in a local museum. This is fitting, as
the items stocked here would be hard to track down
elsewhere. Vintage Air Jordans, Nike Air Wovens, and
old-school Adidas are just some of the lines available
that will grant you instant street credibility.

69
Shopping
Shop fun, feminine finds 4 F4
105 Stanton Street (between Ludlow & Essex Sts)
• 212 375 0304 Open noon–7 daily

A rack of sexy dresses, lacy cover-ups for the beach,


and cashmere sweaters makes Shop feel a little like
an intimate dressing room for college sorority girls.
The salespeople are extremely friendly too, treating
you just like one of the girls. For more standard fare,
there’s an entire wall devoted to jeans.

Teany Moby’s tea shop 4 F4


90 Rivington Street (between Orchard & Ludlow Sts)
• 212 475 9190
www.teany.com Open 8–1am daily

Electronica music maven Moby has created his own


vision of what a teahouse should be (and very teeny
it is indeed). The cozy interior is minimalist white,
and the sound system reverberates with low-key club
music, giving the shop a futuristic Zen-like ambience.
There are over 93 different teas to sample and buy,
ranging from the exotic to the highly exotic. Try the
Silver Needle (a white tea with a superior level of
antioxidants), the Golden Nepal (just because the
name is so cool), and the Earl Grey Creme (the real
best-seller). Alongside metal canisters of leaf tea, the
tiny retail section sells every accessory for the perfect
brew, from the teapot – with Teany logo – to cups,
glasses, tea caddies, and milk jugs. Don’t leave
without sampling the vegan/vegetarian menu (organic
muffins, delicate sandwiches, and tofu scramble).

Chain Stores with such little soul, but there is always a sale rack
New York has no shortage of chain stores offering with bargains. The all-American, casual-preppy look
reasonably priced fashion. There is a Gap on prac- of J. Crew is popular with all age groups, and can
tically every corner – always good for basic T-shirts, even make it into a fashionista’s closet. For pseudo-
jeans, khakis, and bookbags. Equally prevalent is punk flair, try Urban Outfitters, where you’ll find the
Gap’s more upscale sister store, Banana Republic. latest trends, such as Puma zip-ups, and funky
Popular with Wall Street yuppies, Banana offers household items like shower curtains and kitchen-
clean-cut fashion. Prices can be a bit high for fashion ware. For individual contact details, see p223–4.

70 Find courier companies online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Subterranean Records 60s–70s vinyl 3 C3
5 Cornelia Street (at W. 4th St.) • 212 463 8900
www.recordsnyc.com Open noon–8 daily

In the heart of the West Village, Subterranean Records


is the kind of music store any die-hard rocker would
be hard pressed to fault. Specializing in 70s-era NYC
punk and 60s-era rock, the shop is crammed with
7-inch singles and LPs. There’s soul, jazz, and blues,
too, and plenty of CDs alongside the old-school vinyl.

Fat Beats hip-hop & def sounds 3 C2


406 6th Avenue (between 8th & 9th Sts) • 212 673 3883
www.fatbeats.com Open noon–9 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Fat Beats caters to DJs and collectors of hip-hop vinyl.


If you are a true connoisseur of underground hip-hop,
you’ll probably have the shop at the top of your NY
itinerary. If, on the other hand, you’re merely a
dabbler in the music, at least go for the experience –
especially the too-cool-for-school staff.

Fresh decadent bath & body tonics 3 B3


388 Bleecker Street (at Perry St.) • 917 408 1850
www.fresh.com Open noon–8 Mon– Sat, noon–6 Sun

The lotions and potions found here sound more like


culinary ingredients than bathroom products. Sugar
scrubs, sake bath gel, milk soaps, rice face washes,
and soy hand cream are a few of the more exotic
creations. All Fresh products are beautifully packaged,
making them ideal gifts to take back home.

Magnolia Bakery classic cupcakes 3 B3


401 Bleecker Street (at W. 11th St.) • 212 462 2572
Open noon–11:30 Mon, 9–11:30 Tue–Thu, 9–12:30 Fri, 10–12:30
Sat, 10–11:30 Sun

Instantly recognizable by the line of happy customers


at the door, Magnolia is a Village institution, famed for
its beautifully decorated and superb-tasting cupcakes.
Don’t be shy about guzzling one as soon as you’ve
paid – everyone does.

For a listing of the shops by category, see pp223–5 71


Shopping
Marc by Marc Jacobs downtown cool 3 B4
403–405 Bleecker Street (between Bank & W. 11th Sts)
• 212 343 1490
www.marcjacobs.com Open noon–8 Mon–Sat, noon–7 Sun

Ever wondered how models obtain that chic, just-rolled-


out-of-bed style? Step inside Marc’s store, and you too
can achieve the look, with a pair of 70s-inspired
cords and a bomber jacket – the designer’s favorites.
Men’s and women’s stores are next to each other.

Flight 001 quirky accessories for jet-setters 3 A2


96 Greenwich Avenue (at Jane St.) • 212 691 1001
www.flight001.com Open 11–8:30 Mon– Fri, 11–8 Sat,
noon–6 Sun

Ever thought you could do with a petal pink passport


cover? You will be convinced you need more cool
accessories and gadgets than 007 after visiting this
West Village gem. A mobile spice rack to liven up
airplane food, a cigarette lighter that will work in
storm-force gales, and adorable laundry bags are
among the essentials. For the transcontinental
sophisticate, there are New York Times trivia games,
airplane yoga books, travel candles, and Dr. Hauschka
beauty products. This is also your chance to stock up
on travel books locating the planet’s hippest hotels.
Walking-tour CDs of Brooklyn, Manhattan and the
Bronx can be burnt on to your iPod, to ensure that
you never get lost. Still got money to burn? Then
indulge in the silver, hardcase luggage – and look
like a traveler who knows how to get there in style.

Bonsignour coffee & beautiful people 3 B2


35 Jane Street (between 8th Ave. & Hudson St.) • 212 229 9700
Open 7–8 Mon–Sun

The reason why so many shoppers pack into this


Lilliputian space is because it offers good coffee,
even better baked goods, and has the friendliest vibe
of any café/bakery in the West Village. The bench
outside is arguably the best place in the neighbor-
hood to sit and watch the world go by.

72 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
MXYPLYZYK eclectic urban homeware 3 B2
125 Greenwich Avenue (at Horatio St.) • 212 989 4300
www.mxyplyzyk.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun

Keep your hands in your pockets at this unique store,


as you’re bound to want to touch, stroke, or squeeze
everything. From puggy banks (pug-dog piggy banks
– get it?) to purses resembling Bocce bowling balls,
whimsy is the raison d’être of almost every item at
MXYPLYZYK. (It’s pronounced “mixyplitsick,” by the
way.) Vinyl bowls look like warped LPs, a shiny
chrome toaster is suggestive of a prop in a 1950s
sci-fi movie, and a nutcracker comes in the guise
of a squirrel. Utilitarian products, such as cups and
saucers, make the occasional appearance alongside
a wealth of semi-useful stuff like salt and pepper
dogs, psychedelic plates, wonky glasses, and
rubber-bladed desk fans.
There are items for every corner of your home:
modern measuring bowls and Japanese dishes for
the kitchen, Korres skin care products and giant
rubber ducks for the bathroom, a coffee table book of
Turkish Wrestling, and sleek Martini shakers for your
evening cocktails. The most sophisticated pieces (not
outrageously priced considering the exclusive West-
Village location) include office lamps and metal
“industrial-style” jewelry. The point of this store is to
bring a little humor and frivolity into the overly
studious atmosphere that frequently surrounds
contemporary design. Linking all the varied products
in this fun store is the perennial question of what is
functional design and what is art.

Stella McCartney high chic/rocker chick 3 A2


429 West 14th Street (between Washington St. & 9th Ave.)
• 212 255 1556
www.stellamccartney.com Open 12–7 Mon–Sat, 12:30–6 Sun

Set in the newly fashionable Meatpacking District,


Stella McCartney’s store is a lesson in cool. Green
stilettos with plastic cherries dangling off the straps
epitomize her vision of elegance with a little joie de
vivre. The inlaid wood dressing rooms are exquisite.

73
Shopping
La Cafetiere French-style homewares 3 A1
160 9th Avenue (between W. 19th & W. 20th Sts)
• 646 486 0667
Open 10–7:30 Tue–Sat, noon–6:30 Sun

Francophiles and those who think a smattering of


Provençal style might look good in their homes should
head to this shop. While some of the rural-style
tableware is pleasant but commonplace, the furniture
– such as a weather-beaten armoire – is exceptional.

Jeffrey boutique department store 3 A2 means that you won’t have to spend hours digging
449 West 14th Street (between Washington St. & 9th Ave.) around for the choicest outfits, but it also means that
• 212 206 1272 Open 10–8 Mon–Sat (to 9 Thu, 7 Sat),
you won’t find bargains either.
12:30–6 Sun
The women’s shoe department – which takes up
A trailblazing store at the edge of the luxuriously the entire center of the store – is possibly the best
gritty Meatpacking District (see p161), Jeffrey is where collection of footwear in New York. You’ll find sandals
beautiful people and celebrities shop (you’ll often made in Capri, Prada flats, Yves Saint Laurent stilettos,
see tinted-glass limousines parked out front). While Puma trainers, and a selection of other equally stylish
the store is not large, the stock is a discerning brands. Adding to the enjoyment of shopping at
selection, and avant-garde labels such as Dries Van Jeffrey are old-school touches, such as formal greeters
Noten and Balenciaga are much in evidence. This at the door and an abundance of cheery salespeople.

74 Browse reviews at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Carapan Urban Spa 3 C1
& Store city oasis
5 West 16th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 633 6220
www.carapan.com
Spa open 10–9:45 daily; store open 10–8 daily

Carapan’s all-natural restorative products are made


from plants, flowers, and minerals. Buy them here, or
indulge fully at the on-site holistic spa, which offers
some of the best massage and treatments in the city.

ABC Carpet and 3 D1


Home beautiful, budget-breaking furniture
888 Broadway (at E. 19th St.) • 212 473 3000
www.abchome.com
Open 10–8 Mon–Fri, 10–7 Sat, 11–6:30 Sun

The six massive floors of ABC will be like the skies of


heaven to many shoppers – there’s a vision of
unparalleled beauty wherever you look.
The first floor is an assortment of treasures, such as
hand-blown Venetian glass chandeliers, vintage
nursery furniture from France, and cast-iron Buddha
heads. This level may look like a Parisian flea market,
but don’t expect flea market prices.
Walk upstairs to find modern furniture and retro
1960s-style chairs and light fixtures. The third floor
stocks some of the world’s finest linens, Frette and
Pratesi among them. Head to floors five and six for
Belle Époque French antiques. Many pieces –
whether rustic cooking pots or formal chairs – would
look at home in a museum.
Many native New Yorkers don’t even know about the
top-notch, top-floor restaurants at this extraordinary
store. Le Pain Quotidien is a French-Belgian Bakery
serving breads, pastries, gourmet sandwiches, and
coffee. It’s a popular place for brunch. There is also
Pipa, a tapas restaurant, which has a lively atmos-
phere for larger parties. Lucy is a Mexican barbecue.
Without leaving the store, you can visit the
Mudhoney Salon. This is a full-service luxury hair
salon with a beguiling element of punk set amid the
beauty of East Asian furniture.

75
Shopping
Paragon Sporting 3 D1
Goods clothes and equipment for the sporty
867 Broadway (at W. 18th St.) • 800 961 3030
www.paragonsports.com
Open 10–8 Mon–Sat, 11:30–7 Sun

A three-floor megastore for your inner athlete,


Paragon offers everything needed for just about any
sport you care to mention. The basement is filled to
the brim with trainers, including New Balance (the
serious jogger’s choice), Nike, and Puma. All manner
of running paraphernalia is stocked: heart monitors,
lap timers, even breathable underwear.
The first floor caters to the more genteel country
club set, with tennis rackets, Lacoste shirts, and
adorable tennis skirts. There’s a wide selection of golf
equipment too. Don’t miss the large back room for
swimwear (from delicate bikini sets made for
lounging to serious one-piece Speedos for racing).
The top floor is the preserve of adventure sports:
kayaking equipment, diving watches, and a full
assortment of camping gear.

Department Stores and Yves Saint-Laurent are among the fashion


Manhattan’s department stores are legendary, and houses represented at these department stores.
visitors rarely feel a visit to New York is complete During the amazing end-of-season sales, luxury
without venturing to at least one of the city’s items are reduced by as much as 50 per cent.
great shopping behemoths. Henri Bendel (see p223) is much loved by
Macy’s (see p223) is usually high on the list; this New Yorkers and visitors alike because it feels
century-old icon spans a full city block and carries deceptively more like a boutique than a large
mostly moderately priced goods from homewares department store. This is due, in part, to its clever
to fashion. You’ll need to exercise patience, layout of split levels and winding staircases. Yet the
though, as Macy’s is always crowded and easy to selection here is vast, from hip make-up lines such
get lost in. But, if you have time to spare, you will as MAC and Laura Mercier to private label sweaters.
uncover generous sale racks, with all-American There is a mini boutique of Diane Von Furstenburg
brands such as DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, and Polo. wrap dresses and an impressive selection of evening
If you’re looking for a more upscale, less crowded frocks. Unlike the other department stores though,
variation, Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue Bendels (as it’s affectionately called by New Yorkers)
(see p223 for both) offer not only hundreds of every- does not sell everything from mixers to mattresses,
day brands but also boutique labels and high-end but limits itself to cutting-edge designers and beauty
designer showrooms. Chanel, Stella McCartney, products. (See also Bergdorf Goodman, p81.)

76 Check the dates of the sales at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown & Midtown
Kiehl’s world-famous for beauty products 4 E2
109 3rd Avenue (between 13th & 14th Sts) • 800 543 4572
www.kiehls.com Open 10–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Conveniently located just steps away from the Third


Avenue stop on the L train, this flagship store for
Kiehl’s has an awesome product line of plant-based
beauty creams, tonics, powders, and soaps. In
keeping with the simplicity of the products, the
packaging is kept equally minimal.
Grab a basket upon entering and start walking down
the rows of cucumber body washes, rose toners,
coconut hair conditioners, and more. Friendly and
well-informed staff are on hand to answer questions
and offer suggestions. A few suggestions for your
shopping list: Kiehl’s Silk Groom (which does wonders
for conditioning and styling hair); the excellent Lip
Balm; and Kiehl’s Original Musk Oil (which has been
known to stop people in their tracks, so intoxicating
is its aroma). Kiehl’s is also very good at offering free
samples of any item you are curious about.

The Strand the first and last word in books 3 D2


828 Broadway (at 12th St.) • 212 473 1452
www.strandbooks.com Open 9:30–10:30 Mon–Sat,
11–10:30 Sun

The Strand is a downtown institution, and all visitors


to the city should pay a visit here to participate in a
New York rite of passage. This is not a bookstore with
neatly arranged shelves and space to sit on sofas and
sip lattes. And that is precisely why The Strand is so
precious to bibliophiles. Books are its sole raison
d’être, and book-hunters duly crowd the store to
scour the shelves for out-of-print books, first editions,
and obscure tomes at greatly discounted prices.
A large collection of photography, architecture, and
design books sits alongside shelf upon shelf of fiction,
from pulp to literary classics. A treasure trove of
children’s books can be found downstairs. Outside,
there are always hundreds of books stacked up, on
sale for a dollar each. Whatever you’re looking for,
there are always astonishing discoveries to be made.

A great place to eat on Broadway is L’Ecole, see p26 77


Shopping
St. Mark’s Sounds new & used CDs 4 E3
16 St. Mark’s Place (between 2nd & 3rd Aves) • 212 677 2727
Open noon–10:30 Mon–Sun (to 11::30 Fri–Sat)

This is no place in which to worry about surly service,


dust collecting on the CD covers, or the absence of
listening booths. However, it is the place to go wild
about an amazing selection of used and new CDs of
rock, jazz, new wave, soul, and more at prices that
rarely go above double digits.

Jazz Record Center hidden store of jazz jewels 5 C5


236 West 26th Street, 8th Floor (between 7th & 8th Aves) • 212 675 4480
www.jazzrecordcenter.com
Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

A music store for those who know that jazz isn’t just about Miles Davis,
John Coltrane, and Dizzy Gillespie. The Jazz Record Center specializes
in rare vinyl for true jazz fanatics. Auctions are held via the store’s
website, through which you can purchase books, magazines, jazz
ephemera, and LPs, including coveted first pressings.

Jimmy Choo shoes that pinch the wallet 8 E5


645 5th Avenue (between 51st & 52nd Sts) • 212 593 0800
www.jimmychoo.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

If the shoe fits (or even if it hurts a bit), don’t deny


yourself the luxury of owning a pair of status-making
Jimmy Choos. There is a style to match any aspect of
your life (except maybe hiking): flat sandals for
holidays, strappy stilettos for the evening, sporty
pumps, and even a bridal collection.

Manolo Blahnik shoe shrine 8 E5


31 West 54th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 582 3007
Open 10:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10:30–5:30 Sat

If shoes can be considered works of art, then Manolo


Blahniks are masterpieces. Every pair is meticulously
hand-crafted, and any woman who wears them gains
instant sex appeal (that is, if she can master walking
in such dainty heels). Plan on paying a hefty price
though: such stylistic wizardry does not come cheap.

78 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown & Midtown

Takashimaya hand-picked exotica 8 E5 beauty products and fragrances. You’ll find ranges by
693 5th Avenue (between 54th & 55th Sts) • 800 753 2038 Czech & Speake, Different Company perfumes, and
Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun
Takashimaya’s own T fragrance line.
If you find yourself on the crowded streets of Fifth The slick “lifestyle” floor sells everything from
Avenue, duck into Takashimaya for some peace and modern dishes to ancient-looking tables and
tranquillity. A hushed quality fills this six-level store, wardrobes. If a one-of-a kind gift is what you’re after,
and the objects therein form a refined selection of there is an endless selection of pretty little things,
goods from around the world (many of them with an such as delicate Japanese writing paper and old-
Asian influence). Comfort and luxury come in many fashioned photo albums. Everything is displayed in a
forms: vintage furniture, state-of-the-art gadgetry, sparse Zen-like fashion, and every item is specially
pamperingly soft bathrobes, lacquered bowls, selected for its uniqueness and high quality.
handmade sweaters, and exotic flower arrangements. The Tea Box Café on the bottom floor is the best
The top floor carries deluxe beauty items, such as place to rest tired feet and reinvigorate the tired
outrageously decadent silk Japanese slippers that shopper. It serves authentic Japanese green teas and
release a perfume as you walk in them. This depart- bento boxes filled with healthy East-West fusion
ment also stocks the most coveted and hard-to-find morsels to munch on.

79
Shopping
Felissimo half-gallery, half-boutique 8 E5
10 West 56th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 247 5656
www.felissimo.com
Open 11–6 Mon–Thu & Sat, 11–8 Fri

The five-story design house of Felissimo is unlike any


other store you’ll find in New York – or anywhere else,
for that matter. It is a hybrid gallery/design boutique,
filled with one-of-a kind products to contemplate and
to buy. The owners of Felissimo (which means
“beyond happy” in Italian) collaborate with designers
from around the world to produce temporary
exhibitions. The beautiful and often highly original
objects on display may be prototypes for goods not
yet mass-produced. Each exhibition has a theme, and
aims to make the audience/customers question the
effect of design on society. During 2004, for example,
one of the exhibitions was called “White Out.” All five
floors were filled with white furniture, clothes, and
objects for the duration of the show, which explored
the perception of white.
If this all seems a little pretentious, take comfort in
the fact that proceeds from the sale of many of the
designs go to good causes. For example, a portion of
the price of the Tribute Plates – ceramic plates
individually designed by famous actors, designers,
and artists – goes to the charity of the designer’s
choice, as well as UNESCO.
In the gift shop downstairs, you can view and buy
more down-to-earth objects, such as modern steel
tea pots, metal earrings, funky wrapping paper,
T-shirts, and other eclectic but well-designed items.

Niketown a Nike for everyone 8 E5


6 East 57th Street (at 5th Ave.) • 212 891 6453
www.niketown.com Open 10–8 Mon–Sat, 11–7 Sun

Much as the name implies, this is, if not quite a town,


then certainly a decent-sized village of Nike products.
The newest trainers are on display alongside men’s
and women’s workout clothes – cool enough for street
wear. If you’re less concerned about the latest craze,
seek out the Clearance Department for great bargains.

80 Shop online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown

Bergdorf Goodman old-school charm 8 E4 a manicure/pedicure stand (no appointment


754 5th Avenue (between 57th & 58th Sts) • 800 558 1855 necessary). More beauty needs can be fulfilled
www.bergdorfgoodman.com
upstairs at the Susan Ciminelli Day Spa (which is
Open 10–7 Mon–Sat (to 8 Thu), noon–6 Sun
known for its use of soothing, seaweed-based
Bergdorf’s, as New Yorkers affectionately call this products) and the John Barett Salon.
landmark department store, is almost as definitive a As for fashion and accessories, everything you
symbol of the city as the Statue of Liberty. Located could ever need (and didn’t even know you needed)
near the Trump Tower and across the street from the is all under the same roof. There’s a stunningly fine
Plaza Hotel (see p183), this is where the well-heeled jewelry selection on the first floor, while a large
ladies who lunch choose to shop. collection of Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Prada, and Chanel
The basement level has been converted into the jostles for space on the second floor. The very
beauty floor. This bright and cheerful space sophisticated clothes are all displayed as mini-
showcases skincare brands, such as La Prairie, and boutiques, showcasing renowned design labels
make-up lines including Shu Umera. The Buff Spa is such as Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana.

For a roundup of New York’s other famous department stores, see p76 81
Shopping
Dylan’s Candy Bar sugar-lover’s dream 8 F4
1011 3rd Avenue (at 60th St.) • 646 735 0078
www.dylanscandybar.com Open 11–9 Mon–Thu, 11–11 Fri &
Sat, 11–7 Sun

Dylan Lauren, daughter of American designer Ralph


Lauren, offers a fantasy for both kids and adults: a
two-story candy store. Not one to do anything run-of-
the mill, she stocks hard-to-find candy in tins that
you’ll cherish long after the contents are eaten.

Barney’s New York hip versus classic 8 E4


660 Madison Avenue (at 60th St.) • 888 822 7639
www.barneys.com
Open 10–8 Mon–Fri, 10–7 Sat, 11–6 Sun

Too original to be called a department store and too


large to be a boutique, Barney’s is unique. Off-beat
clothes by little-known designers are carried right
next to heavy hitters, such as Marc Jacobs and Prada.
The top-floor restaurant lures New York’s power elite.

La Perla luxurious lingerie 8 E3


803 Madison Avenue (at 66th St.) • 212 570 0050
www.laperla.com
Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

Bikinis and lingerie couldn’t be sexier. Glamorous


and risqué tulle-knit bathing suits play peek-a-boo
with the body, while the lingerie selection goes from
nice to naughty in no time at all. The sporty Studio
and saucy La Perla Black collections are included.

Bra Smyth tailored bras & underwear 8 E2


905 Madison Avenue (between 72nd & 73rd Sts) • 212 772 9400
www.brasmyth.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun

Just as no two snowflakes are identical, neither are


two breasts – a fact not lost on Bra Smyth. With more
than 3,000 bras to choose from, and full-time seam-
stresses on board to customize each bra to fit
perfectly, falling straps and poking underwire should
never be an issue again.

82 www.enewyork.dk.com
Upper East Side
Liliblue feast of accessories for Europhiles 8 E2
955 Madison Avenue (at 75th St.) • 212 249 5356
Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

This French-owned boutique imports hats, scarves,


purses, and other accessories from Italy and France.
The reasonably priced jewelry comes mostly from two
Parisian brands: Satellite and Poggi. Both are known
for their bright, characterful costume jewelry and
silver rings, set with semiprecious stones.

Clyde’s boutique pharmacy 8 E2


926 Madison Avenue (at 74th St.) • 800 RXCLYDES
www.clydesonmadison.com
Open 9–7:30 Mon–Wed, Fri, 9–8 Thu, 9– 7 Sat, 10–6 Sun

Yes, Clyde’s is a pharmacy in the sense that you can


buy vitamins and cough syrup, but this popular
neighborhood institution offers so much more. The
store is stocked with high-end beauty and skincare
products, candles, and imported bathroom goods.

Christian Louboutin scarlet soles 8 E2


941 Madison Avenue (between 74th & 75th Sts)
• 212 396 1884 Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

The quirky designs and scarlet soles that mark every


Louboutin shoe signify that you’ve arrived in the
style-conscious world of Madison Avenue. Well-
heeled fans include New York socialites and
Hollywood A-listers. Even if you’re not buying, drop by
to admire the glorious, Parisian-style interior.

Diane B clothes & shoes for uptown girls 8 F1


1414 3rd Avenue (at 80th St.) • 212 570 5360
Open 11–7:30 Mon–Fri, 10–6:30 Sat; closed Sun in summer

Situated in the lonely shopping territory of the far


eastern Upper East Side, Diane B is a good stop for
French and Italian women’s clothing if you don’t feel
like venturing downtown. Finding a hot number isn’t
hard with brands such as Stephan Kelian and Vera
Wang, but don’t expect to find Prada and Gucci.

83
Shopping
ABH Designs creature comforts 8 H1
401 East 76th Street (between Lexington & 3rd Aves)
• 212 249 2276
Open 11–6:30 Mon–Sat

Owner Aude Bronson-Howard’s career as a Hollywood


costume designer is evident when choosing items for
her store. Linen napkins with silk trim, Italian plates,
down shawls, and faux-mink slippers are some of the
items that will bring a touch of luxury to any home.

Searle coats and cashmere tops 10 E5


1124 Madison Avenue (at 84th St.) • 212 988 7318
www.searlenyc.com
Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6:30 Sun

What began as a store focusing on stylish shearling


coats has expanded to include the full gamut of delec-
table women’s clothing. From TSE cashmere sweaters
to casual lines such as Blue Dot, Trina Turk, and
classic Lacoste, Searle provides a great mix of styles.

Intermix must-have clothing 7 C3


210 Columbus Avenue (between 69th & 70th Sts)
• 212 769 9116
Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Intermix is a beacon of style in the relative fashion


desert of the Upper West Side, where pickings can be
slim for the trend-conscious. The staff can be less than
helpful, prices are high enough to leave you broke, but
there’s an irresistible selection of cool, slinky outfits.

Blades Board & Skate gear for movers 7 B2


120 West 72nd Street (between Columbus & Amsterdam Aves)
• 888 552 5233
www.blades.com Open 10–8 Mon–Sat, 10–6 Sun

The name says it all. Kneepads, goggles, and helmets


are among the essential equipment sold here for
skateboarders, snowboarders, and inline skaters.
Make your choice from an impressive array of skates
then head across the street to Central Park.

84 Check opening hours at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper East Side & Upper West Side
Housing Works 7 C2
Thrift Shop treasures at bargain prices
306 Columbus Avenue (between 74th & 75th Sts)
• 212 579 7566
www.housingworks.org Open 11–7 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat,
noon–5 Sun

This is not just a thrift shop, but a store with heart.


It was conceived in 1990 by Keith Cylar and other
activists as a not-for-profit shop to help homeless
New Yorkers living with AIDS. Housing Works has now
become the largest community-based AIDS activist
group in the U.S. Cylar passed away in April 2004
after a long AIDS-related illness, but the shop
continues his work.
The integrity of the project encourages New York’s
most stylish residents to donate anything from couches
to lamps to coveted clothes. It’s not uncommon to
find sought-after furniture, designer clothes, antiques,
and even collectable art. Despite all this, prices remain
rock bottom, in contrast to other trendy thrift stores.

Super Runners joggers paradise 7 B1


360 Amsterdam Avenue (between 77th & 78th Sts)
• 212 787 7665
www.superrunnersshop.com Open 10–7 Mon–Fri
(to 9 Thu), 10–6 Sat, noon–5 Sun

Even if you’re not training for the New York marathon,


this shop has a running shoe for every terrain, from
the gym treadmill to Central Park nature trails. As well
as trainers you can buy a watch for checking lap times.

Zabar’s top-notch deli 7 B1


2245 Broadway (at 80th St.) • 212 787 2000
www.zabars.com
Open 8–7:30 Mon–Fri, 8–8 Sat, 9–6 Sun

Were Zabar’s to close, the city could well descend into


chaos. Since the 1920s, New Yorkers have relied on
this family-run business for all their gourmet kitchen
needs, from fine cheeses to the best smoked fish.
Don’t leave without buying a famous Zabar’s coffee.

85
Shopping
Xukuma cool lifestyle store 11 D4
183 Lenox Avenue (at 119th St.) • 212 222 0490
www.xukuma.com
Open noon–7 Wed–Sat, 10–6 Sun

Xukuma, pronounced “zoo-koo-ma,” is a lifestyle


store for hip city-dwellers. The shop-owners define
Xukuma (a word they dreamed up) as “life the way
you want it to be.” Their vision encompasses
homewares – groovy lamps, frames, clocks, etc. –
and clothing lines that bank heavily on 1960s/70s-
influenced “sista-soul” appeal.
You’ll see the lanky, sexy silhouette of a black
woman with an Afro (dubbed “X Girl”) on everything
from T-shirts to posters and cards. Her best cameo is
on the tank top and panty sets emblazoned with
phrases such as “obey me” and “please me.” There’s
a range of men’s underwear with “hustler,” “dirty
devil,” and “bad boy” emblems. Xukuma also stocks
gourmet food, teas, and Sia candles, as well as
chandeliers and gift baskets.

Demolition Depot historic artifacts 12 G3


216 East 125th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves)
• 212 860 1138
www.demolitiondepot.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5 Sat

Many a New Yorker can thank Demolition Depot for


helping to spruce up a bland apartment with objects
from a bygone era. At the four-story warehouse in
Harlem, you’ll uncover treasures such as 19th-century
light fixtures, mirrors that once hung in American
farmhouses, fireplace mantles, and oil paintings.
Owner and antiques dealer Evan Blum salvages
most of his stock from homes and buildings that are
about to be destroyed. Because of this, he can buy
cheap and sell a beguiling range of architectural
pieces – from plumbing fixtures and door furniture to
stone sculptures, stained-glass windows, gates and
railings – at far more reasonable prices than you’d
expect to pay at an auction. Demolition Depot’s
smaller items include decorative tiles, clocks, old
shop signs, and NYC subway signage.

86 www.enewyork.dk.com
Above Central Park & Brooklyn
Butter current trends for women 13 B4
407 Atlantic Avenue (at Bond St.) • 718 260 9033
Open noon–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Though not completely original by NYC standards,


Butter has been a ground-breaking store for Brooklyn,
being the first in the neighborhood to offer top-end
women’s clothing. With lines such as Dries Van Noten,
Rick Owens, and Rogan jeans available here, Brooklyn
girls no longer have to trek across the bridge.

Bark one-of-a-kind gifts 13 B4


495 Atlantic Avenue (between Nevins St. & 3rd Ave.)
• 718 625 8997
Open noon–7 Wed–Sat, noon–6 Sun

“Lifestyle stores” are becoming something of a


phenomenon in New York, and Bark (formerly
Breukelen) is hailed as the first example of this genre
in Brooklyn. In old-fashioned parlance, however, Bark
is an interior design store, predominantly stocking
contemporary pieces, such as Japanese glass, South
African wooden bowls, and jewelry by local artists.
Because the selection offered here is so unusual
and distinctive, even Manhattanites are prepared to
leave the island once in a while to visit it. Expensive
kitchen supplies, such as coffee-makers, handmade
ceramic dishes, and stainless steel mixers offer
endless appeal. The wonderfully elegant Diptyque
candles are the store’s most affordable and best-
selling items, but this is not the place for bargains.

Loom groovy knick-knacks 13 C4


115 7th Avenue, Brooklyn (between Carroll & President Sts)
• 718 789 0061 Open 11–7 Mon–Sat, 11–6 Sun

Loom is a design store catering to the well-heeled,


stroller-pushing crowd of Park Slope. Italian
stationery, mod jewelry, and cute little objets make
wonderful gifts for the friend who has everything.
Come and agonize over the discerning selection of
glass vases and hand-embroidered bed linen.

Brooklyn is one of New York’s hippest areas for shopping – and for bars and clubs 87
Shopping
Nest clutch of delectable home furnishings 13 C5
396a 7th Avenue (between 12th & 13th Sts), Brooklyn
• 718 965 3491 Open noon–7 Mon, 11–7 Tue–Sat, noon–6 Sun

When graphic designer Jihan Kim and his wife


decided to settle down together and have a baby,
they decided to open a store that would combine
this cozy time in their lives and their artistic
backgrounds. Thus Nest was born (and their baby
girl) to fill the niche in Park Slope for off-beat objets
and furniture for starting a home.
Their range of products for a groovy home include
sleek, handmade ceramic vases – made by Kim’s
aunt – and Japanese mugs with bold graphic prints.
Nest also stocks hand-embroidered pillows and
stylish window shades, tiny wooden children’s chairs
in bold colors (really adorable), and space-age Blue
Dot desks, made of white Lucite. The perfect buy if
space is tight in your suitcase are Nest’s giant,
adhesive dots, which come in bright colors and are
designed to decorate walls, ceilings, and floors.

Mini Minimarket ironic girly lifestyle store 13 B2


218 Bedford Avenue (at N. 5th St.) • 718 302 9337
www.miniminimarket.com Open noon–8 daily

A hodgepodge of all things cool, this store has


everything for the hipster Williamsburg girl: playful
jewelry, fashions from Tokyo, sexy underwear, Gola
trainers, and 1980s-inspired tops. The minimarket
stocks only small quantities of each item, so it’s un-
likely you’ll find anyone else wearing the same thing.

Spoonbill & Sugartown 13 B2


Booksellers rare tomes
218 Bedford Avenue (at N. 5th St.) • 718 387 7322
Open 11–9 daily

Books on painting, photography, architecture, and


graphic design cater to Brooklyn’s bohemians. At the
back of the store, you’ll find used books on everything
from religion to geography. What you won’t find is
anything off the current New York Times best-seller list.

88 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn
Spacial high-end crafts 13 B2
199 Bedford Avenue (at N. 6th St.) • 718 599 7962
www.spacialetc.com 11–9 Mon–Sat, noon–8 Sun

Spacial (sic) feels simultaneously folksy and urban.


In the window are handmade ponchos, clogs, and
precious children’s clothes. Step inside to find highly
stylized lamps, jewelry, and bowls, as well as
imported design journals and soaps. The only factor
that unites all these items is their evident coolness.

Isa trend-setting clothes 13 B2


88 North 6th Street (between Berry & Wythe Aves)
• 718 387 3363 Open 1–9 Mon–Fri, noon–10 Sat, noon–8 Sun

Walking into Isa is like stumbling upon the closet of


pop prince Justin Timberlake. An array of vintage-
looking (but new) T-shirts adorn the wall, each
bearing a dramatic or provocative slogan, such as
“Hold On To Young Ideas,” and “Dine At The Y.”
Another popular design is Jean-Michel Basquiat’s
image of Cassius Clay. The hip urban gear includes
limited-edition Nikes, high-end Levi’s, and a
selection of expensive sweaters.
Beautiful people work the counter, and DJs spin the
sounds to remind you what a very cool shop this is.
But Isa is not just a great boutique selling of-the-
moment clothes; it also functions as a gallery and
“happening” space in the heart of Brooklyn’s fast up-
and-coming Williamsburg district. The owner, Isa,
often moves the clothing racks to one side and turns
the place into an all-night DJ dance party.

Beacon’s Closet vintage clothes trader 13 B1


88 North 11th Street (between Berry & Wythe Aves)
• 718 486 0816
www.beaconscloset.com Open 12–9 Mon–Fri, 11–8 Sat & Sun

Sick of all your old clothes? Then take them to


Beacon’s Closet and either sell your garments for cash
or trade them for in-store credit. In the shop, you’ll
find lots of second-hand clothing and accessories for
men and women. There are also brand-new CDs.

89
Shopping
Earwax sounds to clean out your ears 13 B2
218 Bedford Avenue (at N. 5th St.) • 718 486 3771
Open noon–8 Mon–Thu, 11–9 Fri–Sat

Earwax is the antithesis of record store chains: there


is no adjoining coffee shop/bookstore and you can’t
pre-listen to CDs. But what you do get is a hand-picked
selection of music that won’t let you down. New CDs
are biased towards indie rock, while the formidable
second-hand section runs the full gamut of tastes.

Fortuna boutique clothes store 13 C2


370 Metropolitan Avenue (at Havermeyer St.) • 718 486 2682
Open 3–10 Tue & Wed, 2–10 Thu & Fri, noon–10 Sat & Sun

It is very hard to visit this old-school style salon and


leave empty handed. All the beautifully displayed
vintage men’s and women’s clothes are carefully
selected by the owner, who scours the country in her
search. There are slips from the 1930s, wedge shoes
from the 1970s, and even the occasional top hat.

MiniMall alternative retail space 2 C4


218 Bedford Avenue (at N. 5th St.)
Stores at MiniMall have differing opening times, but most are
open between 10 and 7 daily

Located on Williamsburg’s hippest boulevard (see


p165), the MiniMall is one of the best places for
shopping and lounging in Brooklyn. This retail space-
cum-club house takes up the entire ground floor of a
loft building, and houses myriad stores.
Once inside the cavernous entryway (where
computers and tables are set up for Internet perusal),
you can venture into shops such as The Girdle
Factory, in which vintage treasures can be found (a
$30 Gucci wallet!). Otte, on the other hand, sells only
what the uptown girl wants: Seven jeans and flirty
dresses. Go Yoga offers some of the best yoga
classes in the city, and the Tibet Boutique will help
you look the part. One of the most popular stores is
the UVA Wine Shop. There, you’ll find young
connoisseurs deliberating over their purchases.

90 Browse designer websites at www.enewyork.dk.com


Brooklyn
Astroturf vintage homewares 13 B4
290 Smith Street (between Union & Sackett Sts)
• 718 522 6182 Open noon–7 Wed–Fri, 11–7 Sat, 11–5 Sun

There is something comforting about setting foot into


this Cobble Hill homewares and furniture store. It’s
almost as if you’ve just stepped into a really groovy
grandmother’s attic. Astroturf sells everything that
was left carelessly behind from the 1950s and 60s:
orange plastic bowl sets, curvy lamps, now-prized
vintage lunchboxes, turquoise coffee thermoses, and
Formica tables. Everything in this store yells – no,
screams – kitsch!
If all the fun and funky appeal is too much for the
pottery-barn aesthetic you have studiously cultivated
in your home, take a sleekly sculpted ashtray or vase
to add a dash of Austin Powers grooviness to your
decor. There are shelves and shelves of knick-knacks,
so the choices are practically endless. Best of all,
prices are still pretty retro here, so you can afford to
have fun with the cheap-and-chic look.

Two Jakes period furniture 13 B2


320 Wythe Avenue (between Grand & S. 1st Sts)
• 718 782 7780
www.twojakes.com Open 11–7 Tue–Sun
Head to this industrial-chic area of Williamsburg for
used metal office furniture that would be triple the
price if it were sold in SoHo. Two Jakes’ massive
warehouse space offers classic 20th-century office
furniture in remarkably good condition.

Moon River Chattel farmhouse furniture 13 B2


62 Grand Street (between Wythe & Kent Aves) • 718 388 1121
Open noon–7 Wed–Sat, noon–5 Sun

In the urban jungle of Brooklyn sits a store that offers


items more befitting a country cottage than a city pad.
Light fixtures look as if they were taken from an early
20th-century soda shop, old clocks tick ponderously,
wooden tables carry the burden of age, and appliances
seem more artistic than purposeful.

91
art &
architecture
New York is the pre-eminent
city for Modernist art and
architecture, famously evident in
its towering skyscrapers and in
the unsurpassed collections of
the Guggenheim and the Whitney.
Along with great cultural icons,
such as The Met and Brooklyn
Museum of Art, New York also has
a thriving contemporary art
scene, split between Manhattan’s
galleries and a dynamic
community of artists in Brooklyn.
Art & Architecture
U.S. Custom House Beaux Arts affair 1 D5
1 Bowling Green (between State & Whitehall Sts)
www.nmai.si.edu Open 10–5 daily (to 8 Thu)

New York’s grandest example of Beaux Arts architec-


ture has figures representing the four continents
incorporated into its facade. They were sculpted by
Daniel Chester French, most famous for his work at the
Lincoln Memorial in Washington. The National
Museum of the American Indian is housed here.

St. Paul’s Chapel New York’s oldest 1 D3


209 Broadway (between Fulton & Vesey Sts)
www.saintpaulschapel.org Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, 9–4 Sun

It has served the residents of Lower Manhattan for


well over 200 years, but St. Paul’s Chapel gained
wider public attention in the wake of the 9/11 attack
on the World Trade Center, when it acted as a
steadfast beacon for New Yorkers.
Modelled on St.-Martin-in-the-Fields in London,
the church was completed in 1766, making it New
York’s oldest building in continuous use. George
Washington worshipped here during the two-year
period (1789–91) when New York served as the
nation’s capital. His pew is singled out, and above it
hangs what is believed to be the first oil painting of
the Great Seal of the United States – the image of the
bald eagle, with a red-and-white striped shield,
thirteen arrows, and an olive branch.
The chapel bore witness to another kind of history
on September 11, 2001, as debris from the collapsing
North Tower of the World Trade Center rained down,
cloaking the building in pale ash. Within hours of the
catastrophe, St. Paul’s converted into a base for
recovery squads. Firefighters, police officers, and
medical personnel ate, slept, and grieved here, while
volunteers ministered, the city’s top chefs cooked,
and students from the Julliard School of Music
performed impromptu concerts.
The chapel has an exhibition of memorabilia and
testimonies from 9/11 survivors called Out of the
Dust: A Year of Ministry at Ground Zero.

94 Check opening hours on www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Ground Zero poignant reconstruction site 1 C3
Pedstrian platform (at Vesey & West Sts)
www.renewnyc.com

In 2002, the Lower Manhattan Development


Corporation – in collaboration with families of victims,
local business owners, and politicians – selected a
master plan for Ground Zero: site of the former World
Trade Center. The design was by Daniel Libeskind, an
architect renowned for his ground-breaking Holocaust
Museum in Germany. His scheme intended to retain
the twin towers’ footprints at 30 ft (9 m) below
sidewalk level, creating a contemplative space for a
memorial. But the most dramatic part of his design
was an astonishing 1,776-ft (540-m) skyscraper, the
Freedom Tower, its height echoing the date of the
signing of the Declaration of Independence – 1776.
Libeskind’s designs have undergone significant
alterations, however. Until it is completed, visitors can
view the site from a platform. The memorial is
scheduled to open in 2006, with a museum to follow.

Skyscraper Museum homage to height 1 D5


39 Battery Place • 212 968 1961
www.skyscraper.org
Open noon–6 Wed–Sun

After seven years bouncing from one office lobby to


the next, the Skyscraper Museum finally found a home
in 2004. One of the city’s most ingeniously designed
museums, it honors its soaring subjects through
illusion and intriguing details. Freestanding white
columns are vertically reflected between stainless
steel floors and mirrored ceilings, creating the appear-
ance of infinite height. Throughout this echoing
space, architectural fragments from Manhattan’s
most notable skyscrapers are displayed. The museum
contextualizes New York’s 100 year-old obsession
with building tall in terms of economic cycles, an
interesting counterpoint to the apparent brashness of
the form. The museum also mounts temporary exhibi-
tions, and future shows are set to redress the current
NY bias with more international subjects. Adm

95
Art & Architecture
Woolworth Building pinnacled tower 1 D2
Gothic in style and topped off by a green turret, the
Woolworth Building is utterly distinct from its clean-
edged, Lower Manhattan neighbors. Erected in 1913 for
the houseware-catalogue magnate Frank Woolworth, it
was, at 55 stories, the tallest structure in New York until
the 1930s, when the Chrysler Building was constructed.
The nave-like lobby contains a statue depicting the
thrifty Mr. Woolworth counting his dimes.

Broken Kilometer relative distance 3 D5


393 West Broadway (between Spring & Broome Sts)
• 212 989 5566 (Dia offices)
www.brokenkilometer.org Check website for opening times

In five parallel rows, 500 gleaming brass rods lie on a


SoHo hardwood floor in Walter De Maria’s 1979 instal-
lation. Laid end to end, the rods would measure exactly
one kilometer. The seemingly straightforward work
plays with perspective and is loved by mathematicians.

Earth Room deep, dark soil 3 D4


141 Wooster Street (between Houston & Prince Sts)
• 212 989 5566 (Dia offices)
www.earthroom.org Check website for opening times

Commissioned by the trailblazing Dia Art Foundation,


Walter De Maria’s Earth Room (1977) is a white-walled
exhibition space, filled to a depth of about 2 ft (55 cm)
with moist, dark soil. The third of De Maria’s earth
sculptures, it is the only one still in existence.

Contemporary Art Galleries welcomed defecting SoHo dealers for years. Pace
Some of the hottest galleries in the contemporary Wildenstein and Mary Boone have Chelsea outposts
art world are grouped in Manhattan. The SoHo nexus, as well as midtown locations, and Larry Gagosian’s
comprising Wooster, Grand, Greene, and Spring little empire, extending from Beverly Hills to
streets, boasts the highest concentration of galleries. London, mounts prestigious exhibitions at his large
Deitch Projects mounts some of the area’s most Chelsea space. Elsewhere, Chinatown’s Leo Koenig
highly anticipated shows, from paintings inspired Gallery deals in lively work from emerging artists.
by skateboard design to performances. Chelsea has For individual contact details, see p225.

96 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Lower East Side Tenement 4 F5
Museum home of NY’s early immigrants
90 & 97 Orchard Street (at Broome St.) • 212 431 0233
www.tenement.org
Open for guided tours only: Sep–Jun Tue–Sun, Jul & Aug Mon

In the heart of the old garment district in the Lower


East Side, the Tenement Museum offers an
enlightening overview of how pioneering immigrants
lived and worked in the late 19th and early 20th
centuries. Guided tours explore an 1863 tenement,
which was home to some 7,000 immigrants from 20
countries during its 72 years as a residential building.
Engaging tour guides lead visitors through the
humble, virtually unchanged units, peppering
biographical accounts of former tenants’ lives with
fascinating facts about the neighborhood’s social
organizations, businesses, sights, sounds, and
smells. It is advisable to book a few days ahead.
The museum also arranges historical walking tours
of the Lower East Side. Adm

Merchant’s House 4 E3
Museum 19th-century opulence
29 East 4th Street (between Lafayette St. & Bowery)
• 212 777 1089
www.merchantshouse.com Open noon–5 Thu–Mon

Between the Bowery’s punk-rock bars and Broadway’s


name-brand shops rises a magnificent Federal-style
house of around 1832. It is one of the last vestiges of a
prosperous merchant-class suburbia that once thrived
in downtown Manhattan. The hardware-importing
Tredwell family lived here until 1933, resisting the
late-19th century trend among Manhattan’s elite to
construct estates bordering Central Park.
Opened as a museum in 1936, the Merchant’s House
provides an unparalleled glimpse into how the high
life was lived in mid-19th-century Manhattan. Tours
(weekdays only) take visitors through a Greek Revival
interior of Ionic columns, ornate plasterwork, and
beautiful marble mantelpieces. The backyard garden
offers arbors and 19th-century iron furniture. Adm

97
Art & Architecture
Jefferson Market 3 C2
Courthouse architectural treasure
425 Avenue of the Americas (at 10th St.) • 212 243 4334
www.nypl.org Open Mon–Sat Check website for opening times

The fairytale Venetian-Gothic courthouse was saved


when local residents campaigned to have it converted
into a public library. The former civic court is now the
library’s main reading room and the children’s reading
room occupies the police court.

Forbes Magazine Gallery toys/games 3 D2


60 5th Avenue (at W. 12th St.) • 212 206 5548
Open 10–4 Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat

The private art estate of publishing magnate Malcolm


Forbes is displayed here. Although his unrivaled
Fabergé egg collection recently sold for $100 million,
visitors can still glimpse a frivolous side to the
notoriously pragmatic Mr. Forbes in his vintage toy
collection and staggering array of boardgames.

Block Beautiful decorous abodes 4 E1


Among Manhattan’s most picturesque residential
blocks is this fanciful melange of Tudor, late-Federal,
and brownstone houses. Attractive paint schemes,
varied door arch designs, and intricate wrought-iron
gates distinguish each home from the next. In fair
weather, the block enchants with window-mounted
planter boxes brimful of color, and slender trees
sprouting acid-green leaves.

Museum at the Fashion Institute 5 D4


of Technology past and future trends
7th Avenue (at 27th St.) • 212 217 5970
www.fitnyc.suny.edu Open noon–8 Tue–Fri, 10–5 Sat

Do Andy Warhol’s early footwear sketches bear


hints of future greatness? Contemplate this question
and scores of other fashion designs at F.I.T.’s free
museum. Special exhibitions draw on the school’s
textile, illustration, and photography collections.

98 Find out about changing exhibitions at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown & Midtown

Midtown Deco classic buildings 6 F1–6 G2 example, has a rare, nickel-silver embellished lobby.
Evoking an age of tuxedoed jazz orchestras, jet-black Over on 42nd Street, look for the Chanin Building’s
limousines, high hems, and cocked fedoras, midtown’s intricately carved facade and doorway with elaborate,
Art Deco skyscrapers are, for many, quintessential gold-plated convector grilles (122 East 42nd Street at
emblems of New York. Beyond the well-known desti- Lexington Avenue). Also on 42nd Street, you’ll find
nations (most obviously the Empire State Building, a huge revolving globe and antiquated weather
see p18) rise equally impressive yet less-visited land- instrumentation in the lobby of the New York Daily
marks. The following buildings are not open to the News Building (220 East 42nd Street). Though not a
public, but you can admire the exteriors and nearly hidden gem, the shimmering Chrysler Building
always venture into the foyers, which often contain (405 Lexington Avenue) is a revelation if you’ve never
the buildings’ most elaborate designs. The General seen the lobby; mosaics, multicolored African marble,
Electric Building (570 Lexington Avenue), for and whimsical automotive motifs make it a must-see.

99
Art & Architecture
International Center of 5 D2
Photography massive photo archive
1133 Avenue of the Americas (at 43rd St.) • 212 860 0000
www.icp.org Open 10–6 Tue–Thu, 10–8 Fri, 10–6 Sat & Sun

Combining a school, an archive, and frequent exhibi-


tions, the ICP is one of the world’s biggest centers of
photography. The subject of a show here might be
historical – a 1920s French avant-gardist, perhaps –
or contemporary, such as reportage from Iraq. Adm

Whitney Museum of American Art at Altria 6 F2


120 Park Avenue (at 42nd St.) • 917 663 2453
www.whitney.org
Open 11–6 Mon–Fri, to 7:30 (Thu); sculpture gdn 7:30–9:30 Mon–Sat, 11–7 Sun & hols

The airy, bright lobby of Altria Group, Inc. serves as an exhibition space
for cutting-edge contemporary art. There are two spaces, in fact – an
intimate gallery and a glass-walled indoor sculpture court. The focus of
the exhibition program is emerging contemporary artists. Recent shows
put the spotlight on Mark Bradford, Louis Gispert, and Dario Robleto.

Rose Museum at 7 D5
Carnegie Hall musical memorabilia
154 West 57th Street, 2nd Floor (at 7th Ave.) • 212 903 9600
www.carnegiehall.org Open 11–4:30 daily

The Rose Museum gives an insight into the status of


the prestigious Carnegie Hall (see p125) and is a treas-
ure trove of intriguing memorabilia, from concert pro-
grams to vintage costumes. For tours of the concert hall
(11:30, 2, and 3, Mon–Fri Sep–Jun) call 212 903 9765.

Icons You can shop for souvenirs, buy fresh goods at the
Ever since King Kong scaled the Empire State Build- market, and count stars twinkling on the concourse
ing (see p18) in his 1933 film debut, the 86th-floor ceiling. Nearby Times Square is site of dizzying neon
observatory has been a compulsory visitor destina- lights and the world’s most famous New Year’s Eve
tion. Eleven blocks south, the Flatiron Building celebration. Stately Brooklyn Bridge was one of the
was New York’s first skyscraper (1902). In midtown, world’s first steel-cable suspension bridges – walk
Grand Central Terminal (Map 6 F2) is a Beaux Arts across it for majestic views of Manhattan and
sculpture brought to frenetic life each morning. glimpses of the Statue of Liberty (see p12).

100 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown
Museum of Modern Art home at last 8 E5
11 West 53rd Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 708 9400
www.moma.org Open 10:30–5:30 Mon–Sun (to 8 Fri)

After leading itinerant lives in cities around the world


and in a temporary space in Queens, MoMA’s most
highly prized holdings have returned to their
dramatically revamped six-story gallery back in
Manhattan. Reopened in late 2004 after the most
ambitious building project of the museum’s 75-year
history, MoMA has reaffirmed its status as the
world’s foremost modern art institution.
Yoshio Taniguchi’s renovation has doubled the
museum’s exhibition capacity and restored one of its
most beloved attributes, the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller
Sculpture Garden. The redesign also incorporates a
smart new restaurant. Set off by the refreshed gallery
spaces, the collection continues to impress, with
such delights as Vincent Van Gogh’s Starry Night,
Picasso’s formidable Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, and
Dalí’s seminal The Persistence of Memory. Adm

Whitney Museum 8 E2
of American Art America’s finest
945 Madison Avenue (at E. 75th St.) • 800 Whitney
www.whitney.org Open 11–6 Wed, Thu, Sat & Sun, 1–9 Fri

As with Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim building


(see p104), Marcel Breuer’s cantilevered Whitney is
more than just a home for an art collection, it is a
statement of radical intent. Built in the mid-1960s, it
is distinctive, powerful and Modernist, reflecting the
strongest elements of the exclusively American art it
holds. The permanent collection boasts works by
Warhol, Pollock, and Jasper Johns, and by abstract
sculptors David Smith and Alexander Calder. It also
has an extensive collection of paintings by Georgia
O’Keeffe and Edward Hopper.
The Whitney’s program of temporary exhibitions is
excellent, including one-person retrospectives (Philip
Guston, for example) and themed shows, such as on
film and video (shorts by John Baldessari and Ed
Ruscha were shown in 2004). Adm

The Whitney’s famed biennial (next in 2006) showcases the best new and established American artists 101
Art & Architecture
Frick Collection art in a glorious setting 8 E2 Diana the Huntress. The capacious West Gallery is
1 East 70th Street (at 5th Ave.) • 212 288 0700 more egalitarian with its hanging arrangements,
www.frick.org Open 10–6 Tue–Sat, 1–6 Sun
granting Old Masters Rembrandt, Velásquez, Van
The family of steel tycoon Henry Clay Frick bequeathed Dyck, and Goya equal wallspace. On the rich, oak-
their Fifth Avenue mansion to the city shortly after paneled walls of the intimate Living Hall, at the heart
Henry’s death in 1919. Included in the gift was one of of the residence, are major works by Titian, El Greco,
the country’s most spectacular collections of fine and and Bellini. Elsewhere are Jan van Eyck’s Virgin and
decorative arts, spanning more than five centuries, Child with Saints and Donor, El Greco’s fearsome
from the Renaissance to the late 19th century. The Purification of the Temple, and Holbein’s
Henry took incredible care over situating his most luminous portrait of Sir Thomas More.
prized pieces in specific rooms and halls, a habit not However, it’s the house itself that makes a visit so
forgotten by the collection’s present directors, who unforgettable. Furnishings range from Louis XVI
may arrange entire floorpans in order to showcase opulence to 19th-century English restraint. Plant-filled
one single piece. The Whistler portraits in the Oval atriums and a charming outdoor garden, with graceful
Room, for example, are a mere backdrop to the magnolia trees and views of Central Park, also add
room’s main focal point, Houdon’s life-size sculpture extra dimensions to the Frick experience. Adm

102 View collections online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper East Side
Metropolitan Museum 8 E1
of Art cultural behemoth
1000 5th Avenue (between 80th & 83rd Sts) • 212 535 7710
www.metmuseum.org 9:30–5:30 Tue–Sun (to 9 Fri & Sat)

The Met’s two million objects form one of the world’s


largest museum collections. Among the myriad
galleries of the hulking Beaux Arts structure are
estimable collections of Egyptian artifacts, Islamic art,
and European paintings. Among the paintings are
works by Renaissance giants Botticelli and Leonardo,
and canvases by Rembrandt, Cézanne, and Monet.
If the prospect of such a vast museum seems daunt-
ing, consider attending an informal gallery talk. More
in-depth than the museum highlight tours, they are
led by art historians and offer the opportunity to learn
more about specific works. Check the Met’s website
for the talks calendar. Also note the Met’s highly
varied program of temporary exhibitions, which range
from ancient Chinese art to the photographs of Diane
Arbus and a Max Ernst retrospective. Adm

Museum of Television 8 E5
and Radio classic footage & recordings
25 West 52nd Street (between 5th & 6th Aves)
• 212 621 6800
www.mtr.org Open noon–6 Tue–Sun (to 8 Thu)

Yearning to revisit a classic Muppets episode? This


museum exists for just such desires, with its streams
of vintage newsreel, landmark radio broadcasts, and
classic comedy shows. There’s a huge archive too. Adm

Asia Society Asian arts 8 F2


725 Park Avenue (at 70th St.) • 212 288 6400
www.asiasociety.org Open 11–6 Tue–Sun (to 9 Fri)

The superb Asian art collection of American philanthropist John D.


Rockefeller III is housed in this bright, modern building. Japanese
screens and bronze Buddhist deities are among the exhibits spread
throughout a series of galleries. Shows by contemporary Asian and
Asian-American artists are often staged, and the building acts as a
venue for performances of Asian music and dance. Adm

103
Art & Architecture

Guggenheim Museum 10 E4 entrance hall, visitors were encouraged to ride


1071 5th Avenue (at 89th St.) • 212 423 3500 elevators to the top of a spiral-shaped tower, the
www.guggenheim.org
Great Rotunda, and descend via a gently sloping
Open 10–5:45 Sat–Wed, 10–8 Fri
ramp along the spiral’s perimeter. Adorning the
With museums now bearing the name in Las Vegas, tower’s walls were works by Wassily Kandinsky, Piet
Venice, Berlin, New York, and Bilbao in Spain, Mondrian, and Joan Miró.
“Guggenheim” has penetrated the world’s cultural This specific vision for the building is no longer
vocabulary. But before becoming the art-world jugger- upheld, however. Some six years after the building’s
naut that it is today, Guggenheim was simply the completion in 1959, the strictly abstract collection was
surname of Solomon, a private collector who wanted augmented with figurative works by Impressionists
to publicly exhibit his collection of abstract art. Cézanne, Degas, and Renoir, and with paintings by
In the minds of Guggenheim and his advisor, the Van Gogh and Picasso. The building was extended, and
painter and curator Hilla Rebay, the collection today the Great Rotunda is used only for temporary
required a new kind of gallery space – one that exhibitions, while the permanent collection is housed
complemented the pioneering, iconoclastic form of in the adjoining Tower. The Small Rotunda is used to
the paintings in his collection. What resulted was one display the “greatest hits” of the Impressionist and
of the world’s most instantly recognizable buildings. Post-Impressionist collection. The museum’s temporary
Designed by American Modernist architect Frank shows tend to relate to the Modern Movement, some
Lloyd Wright, the building shattered notions of very obviously, such as the conceptual abstraction
rectilinear exhibition space. Rather than walk through of Daniel Buren, others more obliquely, such as art
traditional galleries and wings, only to turn around from the Aztec Empire, which influenced some early
and experience the same art while returning to the 20th-century avant-garde painters. Adm

104 Browse reviews at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper East Side
Museum of the City of New York 10 E2
focus on New York
1250 5th Avenue (at E. 103rd St.) • 212 534 1672
www.mcny.org
Open 10–5 Tue–Sun

Dedicated to New york’s development from its past to


its present and future, this museum is housed in a
handsome Georgian Colonial building, noted for period
rooms from actual homes. Donations appreciated.

The Jewish Museum all things Jewish 10 E4


1109 5th Avenue (at 92nd St.) • 212 423 3200
www.thejewishmuseum.org
Open 11–5:45 Sun–Wed, 11–8 Thu, 11–3 Fri

The Jewish Museum presents an unparalleled over-


view of Jewish art and culture. A stunning French
Gothic house holds four floors of ceremonial art,
photographs, paintings, textiles, sculptures, and video
screenings. Each piece in the permanent collection –
whether it be a self-portrait by Viennese artist Max
Beckmann, a 3,000-year-old ceramic vase, or a
vibrant 19th-century quilt from a Jerusalem workshop
– encourages the viewer to explore how the object
informs, or is informed by, Jewish identity.
Popular temporary exhibitions take place on the
ground floor, such as Kafka’s Prague and Entertaining
America: Jews, Media, and Broadcasting, as well as
retrospectives of individual Jewish artists, such as
Marc Chagall and Chaim Soutine. A kosher café in the
basement is on hand for refreshments.

Cooper-Hewitt National 10 E4
Design Museum design classics
2 East 91st Street (at 5th Ave.) • 212 849 8400
www.ndm.si.edu Open 10–5 Tue–Thu, 10–9 Fri, 10–6 Sat,
noon–6 Sun

Housed in the imposing Andrew Carnegie mansion,


the Cooper-Hewitt is a shrine to design in all its forms.
Exhibits range from a sketch of candelabra by
Michelangelo to highly coveted Eames chairs. Adm

Access to one of the biggest garden terraces in New York is another highlight of the Cooper-Hewitt 105
Art & Architecture

The Cloisters portal to the Middle Ages Campin’s Annunciation triptych of 1425. It also inte-
Fort Tryon Park • 212 923 3700 • M4 bus or A train to 190th St. grates relics of medieval buildings, such as a 900-
www.metmuseum.org
year-old apse from a Spanish church, seamlessly
Open 9:30–5:15 Tue–Sun (to 4:45 Nov–Feb)
woven into a limestone wall. Elsewhere, a unicorn
One of New York’s most cherished assets seems, hunt is vibrantly portrayed through a series of 16th-
paradoxically, about as native to the Manhattan century Dutch tapestries, and scores of ecclesiastical
landscape as a Boston Red Sox fan at the Yankee objects from the length and breadth of Europe are
Stadium. The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Cloisters scattered throughout the complex. So complete is the
is a neo-medieval composite of stained glass, illusion of medieval Europe that the Cloisters creates,
painstakingly landscaped gardens, cavernous halls, the visitor experiences a sensation of distance, both
and solemn chapels grafted onto the craggy temporal and geographical. Glimpsing New Jersey’s
northern fringes of Manhattan island. rugged cliffs across the Hudson through a 12th-
It was the philanthropic might of John D. Rockefeller century portico is positively disorientating.
Jr. that facilitated the building’s construction in 1938. Turning to more earthly needs, during warm months
The project was undertaken to provide a harmonious visitors can stave off hunger at the on-site café in
context for displaying the Met’s superb collection of Bonnefort Cloister. But savvy diners take lunch at the
medieval European art and architecture. It provides a nearby New Leaf Café (see p51) for moderately priced
splendid setting for such masterpieces as Robert bistro fare, such as juicy sirloin burgers. Adm

106 www.enewyork.dk.com
North of Central Park & Brooklyn
El Museo del Barrio Latin art 10 E2
1230 5th Avenue (at 104th St.) • 212 831 7272
www.elmuseo.org Open 11–5 Wed–Sun (to 8 Thu)

Founded in 1969 by artists and activists from Spanish


Harlem, El Museo del Barrio was a response to the lack
of exhibition space for specifically Puerto Rican art.
Since then, the museum has broadened its scope to
the whole of the Caribbean and Latin America.
The permanent collection spans two millennia of art
production, from Pre-Columbian artifacts to prints,
paintings, installations, and film and video works by
the latest generation of Latin American artists.
Among more than 8,000 objects are wooden santos
(colorful, often comical, depictions of Catholic saints
that incorporate Afro-Caribbean motifs); fascinating
documents of the early years of immigration in New
York; and films of life in Spanish Harlem from the
1970s to the present day. The adjoining Teatro
Heckscher is an enchanting venue for live Caribbean
music, film screenings, and book readings. Adm

Studio Museum in Harlem 11 D3


144 West 125th Street (between Lenox & 8th Aves)
• 212 864 4500
www.studiomuseum.org Open noon–6 Wed–Sun
(from 10 Sat)

The SMH is a contemporary art gallery and resource


specializing in African-American culture. As well
as a large permanent collection, there are temporary
exhibitions, including work by young photographers.

Prospect Park West beautiful setting 13 C5


Between Union and 15th Streets
www.prospectpark.org

This genteel stretch of 19th-century brownstone, brick,


and limestone residences borders Prospect Park.
Beginning at Grand Army Plaza’s majestic Memorial
Arch, a southward stroll takes you past the imposing
bronze statue of the Marquis de LaFayette at 9th Street,
the park’s Concert Shell, and beautiful playgrounds.

Prospect Park was landscaped by Olmsted & Vaux, the designers who also laid out Central Park 107
Art & Architecture
Brooklyn Museum 13 D4
of Art world-class repository
200 Eastern Parkway • 718 638 5000
www.brooklynmuseum.org
Open 10–5 Wed–Fri, 11–6 Sat & Sun (to 11 first Sat of month)

The Beaux Arts BMA dates from 1893 and has as


diverse and staggering a collection as its larger cross-
river contemporary, the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
This is no idle boast – spread over the five floors of
the BMA is a collection that embraces Egyptian
sarcophagi and mummy cases; statues, masks, and
jewelry from Central Africa; Hiroshige’s woodblock
prints of One Hundred Famous Views of Edo; and a
vast selection of paintings and sculpture from Europe
and America, including works by Rodin, Degas,
Pissaro, Matisse, Louise Bourgeois, and Mark Rothko.
There is also a strong photography collection, with
significant prints by Edward Weston and Paul Strand.
On the Fifth floor, American Identities explores the
American dream through exhibits that range from
Native American totems to Georgia O’Keefe’s 1948
meditation Brooklyn Bridge.
The BMA’s First Saturday events (first Saturday of
every month) make for one of the city’s best nights
out: free admission after 5pm, free concerts and
dance performances, and a bar (cash only). Adm

Williamsburg Galleries at Bedford Avenue), which mounts eclectic shows


Priced out of Manhattan’s lofts and studios during and performances by local artists. Pierogi 2000
the late 1980s, frustrated but intrepid artists (177 North 9th Street) artists exhibit around the
boarded the L Train and disembarked in world, but visitors will always see at least one local
Williamsburg, until then a predominantly Polish artist featured at any time. Since 1992, not-for-
and Hasidic Jewish working-class neighborhood. profit Momenta Art (72 Berry Street) has given two
There they found vacant industrial warehouses, artists per exhibition cycle a forum for what is often
which were easily converted into studios. Since their first non-group show. The touring Eyewash
then, Williamsburg artists have influenced tastes gallery is quintessential Williamsburg: artists
and styles worldwide, from fashion to painting to exhibit in multiple spaces around the neighborhood.
music. Supporting the neighborhood’s visual arts Check www.freewilliamsburg.com for the latest
scene from a spectacular c.1867 building is the exhibition information. For contact details of all the
Williamsburg Art & Historical Center (135 Broadway galleries mentioned here, see p225.

108 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn & Queens
Brooklyn Historical 2 H5
Society local culture, historical setting
128 Pierrepont Street (at Clinton St.) • 718 222 4111
www.brooklynhistory.org
Open 10–5 Wed–Sat, noon–5 Sun

Thousands of Brooklyn-related objects, from slave


deeds to Brooklyn Dodgers baseball memorabilia, are
housed in a stunning 1880s mansion. The BHS also
arranges walking tours and outdoor concerts. Adm

Williamsburg Savings 13 C4
Bank Building opulent interior
1 Hanson Place, corner of Flatbush & Atlantic avenues
At night, Brooklyn’s tallest building is distinguished
by the neon red clock face of its 512-ft (156-m) tower.
But the greatest highlight of this building (currently a
branch of the HSBC bank) is its Neo-Romanesque
interior: imposing iron chandeliers, mosaic-covered
ceilings, intricately tiled floors, and graceful arches.

P.S.1 MOMA cutting-edge contemporary art


22–25 Jackson Avenue (at 46th Ave.) • 718 784 2084 • q E or V
to 23 St./Ely Ave, 7 to 45 Rd./Courthouse Sq.
www.ps1.org Open noon–6 Thu–Mon

Modern art aficionados with adventurous tastes and


an urge to break from the SoHo and Chelsea scenes
need only venture as far as Long Island City to
experience one of the world’s foremost contemporary
art institutions. Housed inside a late-19th-century
high school building, P.S.1 consistently presents
groundbreaking multimedia, painting, photography,
and sculpture exhibitions that challenge conventions
and blaze new aesthetic trails.
Featured artists have included the 1980s art star
Keith Haring, actor/director/painter Dennis Hopper,
and the late Spanish sculptor Juan Muñoz. A 1997
redesign by Frederick Fisher introduced a courtyard.
Every summer, artists are selected to create thematic
installations in this space for the Saturday afternoon
party series, Warm Up, drawing a savvy crowd. Adm

P.S.1’s alliance with MoMA means that a ticket purchased at either establishment entitles entry to both 109
performance
Broadway shows may be the big
sellers, but the city’s creative heart
beats in a host of other artistic
venues devoted to music, theater,
dance, cinema, poetry, comedy,
and literature. The official Music
Under New York program promotes
talents year-round on the subway
and at street level, while the
summer months bring superb
outdoor entertainments, such as
plays and opera in the parks.
TOP CHOICES – performance
CLASSICAL VENUES DANCE & PERFORMANCE CUTTING-EDGE

Barge Music www.entertainment-link.com


Fulton Ferry Landing, Brooklyn is a handy site which gives the
With the Manhattan skyline in front percentage of seats already sold
of you and water lapping beneath, for a given performance.
this is a magical setting for chamber
music. (See p130)

Carnegie Hall Brooklyn Academy of Music The Kitchen


881 7th Avenue 30 Lafayette Avenue, Brooklyn 512 West 19th Street
The three concert halls of this World-class dance and theater Experimental performances and
hallowed venue have hosted the productions often preview here, more straightforward literary
world’s best classical performers for especially during Brooklyn’s interna- readings are combined at this
more than a century. (See p125) tional Next Wave festival. (See p129) Chelsea hub of creativity. (See p120)

New Jersey The Joyce Theater Bowery Poetry Club


Performing Arts Center 175 8th Avenue 308 Bowery
One Center Street, Newark Dance is the main attraction at this Rarely delivering anything main-
International artists and the NJ former movie house. Mid-sized U.S. stream, the Bowery plays host to
Symphony Orchestra perform at this and international companies are literary performers who challenge
state-of-the-art complex. (See p131) showcased year-round. (See p120) the audience’s minds. (See p118)

Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center The Public Theater P.S.122


Broadway & Amsterdam, 62nd–66th Sts 425 Lafayette Street 150 1st Avenue
This hall is known for spectacular Five on-site theaters and the East Village’s innovative, not-for-
performances and an energetic Shakespeare in the Park festival profit arts center has two theaters
program of choir, quintet, and full entrance drama fans. (See p119) offering some of the city’s most
orchestra concerts. (See p126) daring productions. (See p120)

112 Find out what’s on right now at www.enewyork.dk.com


TOP CHOICES – performance
GIG VENUES JAZZ & BLUES COMEDY

Tonic Village Vanguard The Comic Strip


107 Norfolk Street 178 7th Avenue 1568 2nd Avenue
The thing that sets this cool space A jazz institution not to be missed A stalwart of the stand-up tradition,
apart from other gig venues is the for its good acoustics and line-up of this is a place to see both budding
highly diverse and experimental great musicians. (See p116) and established comedians.
music it programs. (See p117) (See p125)

Mercury Lounge For a basic listing of every kind of


217 East Houston Street popular music, from bluegrass to
There’s a good bar scene in the front hip-hop, go to www.citidex.com. It
room here, while at the back, behind also gives info about comedy venues.
a deep red curtain, is a secretive
room for live music. (See p116)

Cornelia Street Café Lenox Lounge Upright Citizen’s Brigade


29 Cornelia Street 288 Lenox Avenue 307 West 26th Street
This intimate space hosts a wealth This famous Harlem venue has a An informal space that buzzes
of musical styles, including jazz, a local vibe. It attracts regulars from the with off-the-cuff jokes and
cappella singing, and the lilting neighborhood and jazz junkies from well-executed skits. (See p121)
rhythms of samba. (See p115) much farther afield. (See p129)

Knitting Factory 55 Bar


74 Leonard Street 55 Christopher Street
It’s less cutting edge these days, Get close up and personal with
but Knitting Factory still has a great jazz and blues maestros as you
music line-up. The air guitar compe- sip a drink and gaze at the photos
tition always sells out. (See p114) of historic greats. (See p116)

The website www.nytheatre.com Smoke


gives comprehensive listings. 2751 Broadway
The Monday night jam session in
this intimate room lures an audience
of accomplished musicians and
jazz devotees. (See p127)

For information about listings magazines, see p232 113


Performance
Knitting Factory experimental mecca 1 D1
74 Leonard Street (between Broadway & Church St.)
• 212 219 3132
www.knittingfactory.com Open 6–4 nightly

Arriving here is like entering a funfair attraction; you’re


not sure which door to go through first. There are
three main performance spaces – Main Space, Tap
Bar, and Old Office – as well as a free bar area, where
late-night jazz jams are often hosted. The media
company that runs this venue, and also the Knitting
Factory Record label, styles itself “a genre-bending
presenter of established avant-garde.” The types of
music you’re most likely to hear are experimental
rock, klezmer, and jazz, though there has been a
women’s choir performance. The Old Office is the most
intimate space of the three and sometimes hosts poetry
evenings and alternative screenings, as well as regular
music slots. This venue has also been used for the
June JVC Jazz Festival. Tickets for all events can be
ordered from the Knitting Factory website.

Film Forum independent & vintage films 3 C4


209 West Houston Street (between 6th & 7th Aves)
• 212 727 8110
www.filmforum.com Box office 12:30–midnight daily

Cineastes can delight in this three-theater venue, each


with Dolby Digital Sound. The films shown are widely
varied, from old classics such as an Orson Welles
season, to the latest underground hit. Director talks,
fresh food, and film-related merchandise are offered.

S.O.B.’s Latin beats 3 C4


204 Varick Street (at Houston St.) • 212 243 4940
www.sobs.com Open 6:30–4 Mon–Sat

Shake your body and celebrate the Sounds of Brazil


(S.O.B.) – the very best in Latin, French Caribbean,
salsa, hip-hop, reggae, and African beats. Live music
is performed every night, with musicians coming from
around the globe. For a free dance lesson, get here
on a Monday or Friday night between 6pm and 8pm.

114 For New York’s best comedy and cabaret, see www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Blue Note gold-standard jazz 3 C3
131 West 3rd Street (between MacDougal St. & 6th Ave.)
• 212 475 8592
www.bluenotejazz.com
Open from 7 nightly; to 4am Fri & Sat

Now a franchised chain, with venues in Japan, Korea,


and Europe, Blue Note first took root in Greenwich
Village. The premise is simple: sophisticated
surroundings for seriously good music (not just jazz),
with the option of dinner, and a classy interior to
match the top-notch performers who come to play.
Dizzy Gillespie, Ray Charles, and Sarah Vaughan have
ripped the roof off the place in the past, and the club
has also witnessed the talents of Oscar Peterson,
George Benson, and Tony Bennett.
If it all sounds a little too highfalutin’ for live music,
join New York’s poorer musicians, who turn up for the
late-night Friday and Saturday jam sessions – it’s a
mere $5 cover. It’s also known for the Sunday Jazz
brunch and its Saturday afternoon master classes.

The Comedy Cellar gritty stand-up 3 C3


117 MacDougal Street (between W. 3rd & Bleecker Sts)
• 212 254 3480
www.comedycellar.com Evening shows nightly

This basement has had comics, famous and infamous,


performing nightly for over 20 years. The cramped
seating, brick wall backdrop and spotlit stage set the
tone. Cover charge is normally $10–15, but get free
passes via the website. Rude heckling isn’t tolerated.

Cornelia Street Cafe eclectic acts 3 C3


29 Cornelia Street (between W. 4th & Bleecker Sts)
• 212 989 9319
www.corneliastreetcafe.com Evening shows nightly

Performed on a tiny stage in a narrow room beneath a


restaurant, acts here have ranged from Inuit poetry to
Suzanne Vega. In any week you might encounter one-act
plays, comedy, readings, singing, and live Latin, jazz, or
samba music. Art on the walls is often for sale.

115
Performance
Duplex kitsch & cabaret 3 B3
61 Christopher Street (at 7th Ave. S.) • 212 255 5438
www.theduplex.com Open 4–4 nightly

Anything goes in this dual-level space, which features


a piano bar, complete with disco ball, on the first level,
and an intimate-sized cabaret room, with pool table,
upstairs. The monthly schedule is always packed, and
usually includes comedy, cabaret, comedians, and
open mic for singers of varying abilities.

55 Bar NYC-style jazz/funk/blues 3 C3


55 Christopher Street (between 7th Ave. S. & Waverly Pl.)
• 212 929 9883
www.55bar.com Open 1pm–4am nightly

Soak up the atmosphere that’s been brewing in this


West Village stalwart since 1919. The music packs a
punch in a space small enough for the vibes to
resonate off the walls, which are hung with black-and-
white photos of Miles Davis and John Coltrane.

Village Vanguard amazing acoustics 3 B2


178 7th Avenue South (at 11th St.) • 212 255 4037
www.villagevanguard.com Open from 8 nightly

One of the world’s most famous jazz venues, the


Village Vanguard has hosted singers and musicians of
phenomenal talent since 1935. It continues to take
music very seriously, and socializing during sets is
discouraged. Genres include mainstream jazz (for
popular standards), bebop, fusion, Latin, and funk.

Mercury Lounge musical excellence 4 F4


217 East Houston Street (at Essex St.) • 212 260 4700
www.mercuryloungenyc.com Open 6–4 nightly

The Mercury Lounge hosts a mix of new and establish-


ed musical talent. You enter a long, narrow room
dominated by a wooden, candle-lit bar. A heavy,
deep-red curtain separates this from the performance
space (with superb sound system), where Lou Reed,
Jeff Buckley, and Tony Bennett have played.

116 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Bowery Ballroom music in style 4 E5
6 Delancey Street (between Bowery & Chrystie St.) • 212 533
2111 • Box office 866 468 7619 (noon–7 Mon–Sat)
www.boweryballroom.com

This Beaux Arts ballroom, dating from 1929, makes a


wonderful setting in which to hear a band and have a
drink. Although the venue has been fully updated to
accommodate state-of-the-art acoustics and facilities,
many of the building’s architectural details have been
retained. The mezzanine bar is wisely positioned in
front of a gorgeous set of arched windows, providing
a view of the city lights. The stage can be seen from
the wooden ballroom area or the mezzanine. If you’d
like a break from the music, you can drink more
peacefully in the lower-level cocktail lounge. David
Byrne, Beth Orton, Patti Smith, the John Spencer
Blues Explosion, and DJ Shadow are among those
who have played here. Tickets often sell out, so buy
early by phone or at the box office which is at the
Mercury Lounge (see opposite).

Tonic adventurous music 4 G4


107 Norfolk Street (between Delancey & Rivington Sts)
• 212 358 7501
www.tonic107.com Open 7:30 nightly

From jazz funk to the sounds of “industrial waste per-


cussion” to the whirs of an electronic theremin – the
range of music and instruments here often surprises
and inspires. Main space is hip, no-frills decor and
basic seating; downstairs is Subtonic where DJs spin.

Arlene’s Grocery multi-band options 4 F4


95 Stanton Street (between Orchard & Ludlow Sts)
• 212 358 1633
www.arlene-grocery.com Open 6pm Mon–Fri, noon Sat & Sun

It was, indeed, once a grocery store – hence the


colorful frontage – and it gets a little crazy when more
than four bands are billed in one evening. The music
is invariably grunge, indie, pop, and metal. Come on
Monday for a rocking Punk Rock Karaoke Night.

117
Performance
Bowery Poetry Club literary café 4 E4
308 Bowery (at Bleecker St.) • 212 614 0505
www.bowerypoetry.com Open 9–1 Mon–Thu, 9–3 Fri, 11–4
Sat, 11–midnight Sun

First-time visitors with any anti-intellectual angst will


soon feel at ease in this welcoming, unpretentious
venue. Even imaginative readings for children are
included on the bill.
The main glass doors open to a café with uneven
wooden floorboards and mismatched tables, where
you can order organic goodies, espresso, juices, and
alcoholic drinks. The back of the room widens out to
a high-ceilinged performance area with its own tables
and chairs, which can pack in 200 word-lovers; there’s
also a smaller room for intimate readings. A slightly
bohemian atmosphere is accentuated by local artists
exhibiting their works on one wall, and flyers about
events and goods for sale on another. Readings
include works by new writers and established poets
and authors. Sunday brunch is a good time to come.

CBGB echoes of rock history 4 E4


315 Bowery (at Bleecker St.) • 212 982 4052
www.cbgb.com Open 6:30–3 nightly

Come here to pay respects to the world of punk and


progressive rock. The Ramones, Blondie, The Police,
and Talking Heads are among those who owe
something to this venue. The bar’s a bit cleaner, the
music’s changed to metal and new punk, but the
basic gritty stage and loud amps are the same.

Landmark’s Sunshine film theater 4 E4


143 East Houston Street (between 1st & 2nd Aves)
• 212 330 8182
www.landmarktheatres.com

Formerly home to a Yiddish Vaudeville Theater, this


beautifully renovated film house has five screens, all
with Dolby Digital Sound and comfortable seats. Most-
ly foreign and independent films are shown. For info
about late-night screenings, see p19.

118 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
The Public Theater integrity on stage 4 E3
425 Lafayette Street (between E. 4th St. & Astor Pl.)
• 212 539 8500; 212 539 8750 for Shakespeare in the Park
tickets (free)
www.publictheater.org Box office 1–7:30 (to 6 Sun & Mon)

With five theaters, a private rehearsal space, and


the recent addition of neighboring performance
space/bar Joe’s Pub, The Public Theater is a long-
established venue for groundbreaking drama. It is
where the musical Hair had its world premiere in
1967. The main building – formerly the Astor Library –
has a grand entrance hall with the theaters leading
off, and a small wine and coffee bar in the far corner.
Joe’s Pub focuses on experimental theater and solo
performances of drama and music.
The company operates the summer Shakespeare in
the Park season from June to August at Central Park’s
Delacorte Theater. You can get free tickets from The
Public Theater box office or at the park on the day of
performance but there’s a line from 7am or earlier.

Nuyorican Poets Cafe beats & poetry 4 G3


236 East 3rd Street (between Aves B & C) • 212 505 8183
www.nuyorican.org Events nightly, except Mon

This once “underground” café has become a cutting-


edge venue for people of all ethnicities to read, slam,
rhyme, perform, or play an instrument. The dimly lit,
cozy café is a place for contemplative, poetic thought
by day and original spoken-word performances by
night. (See also p17.)

C-Note musical dive bar 4 G2


157 Avenue C (at 10th St.) • 212 677 8142
www.thecnote.com Open 7–4 Mon & Thu, 5–4 Tue, Wed, &
Sun, 4–4 Fri & Sat

Live music – from jazz and blues to funk, rock, and


country – is played nightly. C-Note also hosts superb
jam sessions – jazz on Saturdays (4–7pm), blues on
Sundays (10pm–3am) – and an open mic for singers
and songwriters on Sundays (5–9pm).

For information about outdoor summer film screenings in Bryant Park, see p17 119
Performance
P.S.122 innovative performances 4 F2
150 1st Avenue (at E. 9th St.) • 212 477 5829
• Box office 212 477 5288
www.ps122.org
Open daily; box office 11–6 daily

This performance space in East Village was once a


public school, a shadow of which is seen in the origi-
nal stairwell, complete with wooden banisters and
wrought-iron safety gates. In 1979 a small group of
innovative performers began transforming the rooms
into spaces for performance workshops, movement
classes, and community meetings. The old school
gym was converted into a theater in 1986, used by
small avant-garde groups and cutting-edge produc-
tions. Now a major hub of creative energy, the not-for-
profit arts center boasts two theaters and galleries,
with a constantly changing program of theatrical,
video, musical, and film presentations. Experimental
and vibrant in the arts community, P.S.122 has been
described as the “Petri dish of downtown culture.”

The Kitchen multimedia creations 3 A1


512 West 19th Street (between 10th & 11th Aves)
• 212 255 5793
www.thekitchen.org Box office 2–6pm Tue–Sat

For years, The Kitchen has brought together artists


from varied disciplines, taking pride in its innovation.
Two black-box theaters serve as backdrops for
readings, multimedia installations, dance, and music.
Family-friendly features are on Saturday afternoons.

The Joyce Theater delightful dance 3 B1


175 8th Avenue (at 19th St.) • 212 242 0800
www.joyce.org Box office noon–8 daily (7:30 Sun)

Presenting small- to medium-sized national and inter-


national companies, The Joyce Theater is a center of
dance, from contemporary to traditional. The audi-
torium seats 452 in a functional interior that once
housed a movie theater. Joyce’s satellite space in
SoHo (155 Mercer St) hosts further performances.

120 Browse reviews online at www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown & Midtown
Upright Citizen’s Brigade improv 5 C5
307 West 26th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 212 366 9176
www.ucbtheater.com Performances nightly (cash only)

Step into a world of zany and clever comic sketches


and improvisation at the UCB Theater. Home-grown
Brigade shows and visiting comic troupes are both on
the schedule. Ticket prices are very reasonable, and
you have the possibility of seeing future stars of the
favorite U.S. TV show Saturday Night Live.

Kavehaz gallery & music café 6 E5


37 West 26th Street (between Broadway & 6th Ave.)
• 212 343 0612
www.kavehaz.com Open 5–midnight nightly (2am weekends)

The music and artwork on the walls dictate the


ambience at this popular Chelsea spot. Sample featured
wines or indulge in a hot drink from a bowl as you listen
to the music. Monday is an open mic singers’ show-
case; Wednesday is the Ray Vega Latin Jazz band.

Gotham Comedy Club funny shows 6 E5


34 West 22nd Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 367 9000
www.gothamcomedyclub.com Shows nightly

This comfortable, casual comedy club is given an


added air of sophistication by its solid oak bar and
shimmering chandelier. The line-up mixes budding
comics and surprise guests from the world of TV –
comedians who may have appeared on Conan O’Brien,
The Tonight Show, or on the Comedy Central network.

Hammerstein Ballroom music venue 5 C3


311 West 34th Street (at 8th Ave.) • 212 279 7740
www.mcstudios.com Check website for upcoming events

Ambience and acoustics rate high at this Art Deco


space with a capacity of 2,500. Historic fixtures and a
beautiful ceiling mural have been kept, while there’s
enough rigging to support impressive light and sound
equipment for shows by bands such as indie-rockers
the Pixies or modern jazzers Medeski, Martin & Wood.

For information on outdoor summer concerts series, see p10 121


Performance
Rodeo Bar country music crossover 6 F5
375 3rd Avenue (at E. 27th St.) • 212 683 6500
www.rodeobar.com Open noon–4am daily (2am Sun) ; live
music 10pm

Mosey along into the world of bluegrass, rockabilly,


country music, an amicable atmosphere, drinks
served from a converted horse-trailer, and no cover
charge for the entertainment! Refreshment is Tex-Mex
snacks, peanuts, and powerful margaritas. Yeeee-haw!

The Soul Cafe soul food 5 B2


444 West 42nd Street (between 9th & 10th Aves)
• 212 244 7685
www.soulcaferestaurant.com Open 5:30–11 Mon–Thu,
5:30–12:30 Fri–Sun; also brunch 11:30–3 Sat & Sun

Attracting a mixed clientele of regulars and visitors,


this is a fun place to party with the almost nightly live
entertainment. Also consider the Sunday gospel brunch,
an uplifting mix of soul food and powerful song.

Roundabout/AA magical theater space 5 D2


227 West 42nd Street (between 7th & 8th Aves)
• 212 719 1300
www.roundabouttheatre.org

This repertory theater company has moved several


times and is now based at the beautifully renovated
American Airlines Theatre (formerly called the Selwyn),
which was built in 1918. Slick productions often
feature well-known guest actors.

B.B. King Blues Club gospel & blues 5 C2


237 West 42nd Street (between 8th & 7th Aves) • 212 997 4144
www.bbkingblues.com Box office 10am–midnight daily

Legends such as James Brown and, of course, B.B. King


himself have played in the club’s Showcase Room.
It has a tourist vibe, but the aim to entertain prevails,
and wins over New Yorkers too. Food is served all day
and there’s nightly music at Lucille’s, the more
intimate space, named after B.B. King’s favorite guitar.

122 To book tickets online, go to www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown
Swing 46 jazz & swing dance 5 C1
349 West 46th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 212 262 9554
www.swing46.com Open from 5 nightly

Try your two-step or lindy between courses at this


dinner and dance club, or have drinks up by the bar –
away from the frenzy on the floor, but close enough
to hear the music. There’s no dress code, but a bit of
sartorial elegance is encouraged. Bring your tap shoes
for the Tap Jam on Sundays between 5 and 8pm!

Don’t Tell Mama piano & cabaret 5 C1


343 West 46th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 212 757 0788
www.donttellmama.com Open from 6 nightly (cash only)

Life is indeed a cabaret, and all believers need to visit


this venue at least once, either to listen or to perform.
Grab your Liza Minnelli songbook and come on over to
the piano bar or one of three intimate theaters, where
you can also eat. The place to hear the standards, see
diva wannabes, and enjoy hilarious musical comedy.

Rainbow Room vintage sophistication 6 E1


30 Rockefeller Plaza, 65th Floor (at W. 49th St.) • 212 632 5100
www.cipriani.com
Open from 7 Fri & Sat; Sunday brunch 11–3

A glorious Art Deco institution with awesome views


from the 65th floor to help you forget the $150 per
person tab for dinner and dancing. Big band
orchestras play for the evening as you sway above the
shimmering lights of the city. Black tie is preferred.

City Center music, drama & dance 7 D5


131 West 55th Street (between 6th & 7th Aves) • 212 581 1212
www.citycenter.org

The colorful tiles and pillars of the beautiful Moorish


facade welcome you to the City Center. Inside, the
main stage is used for concerts and performances by
the Alvin Ailey, American Ballet, Paul Taylor, and
Martha Graham dance companies. The Manhattan
Theater Club performs in the center’s smaller spaces.

123
Performance
NBC Studios/ 6 E1
Ed Sullivan Theater three seconds of fame?
www.nbc.com
www.cbs.com Box office 212 247 6497 from 11am on the day

If you’d like to be in the studio audience for NBC’s


news and entertainment Today Show, which goes out
live on weekday mornings, hang around 49th Street
between Fifth and Sixth avenues, between 8:30 and
10am, and join the masses who have the “Hi Mom”
signs. You can also try your luck for last-minute studio
audience tickets to see Saturday Night Live or Light
Night with Conan O’Brien by lining up outside NBC’s
main lobby on the 49th Street entrance at 30
Rockefeller Plaza. Both lines often form before 7am
(tickets are given out after 9am), but there are no
guarantees that you’ll get in.
It’s easier to obtain standby CBS tickets to see The
Late Show with David Letterman (Monday to
Thursday), staged at the Ed Sullivan Theater at 1697
Broadway between 53rd & 54th Streets (Map 7 D5).

Florence Gould Hall for Francophiles 8 F4


55 East 59th Street (between Park & Madison Aves)
• 212 355 6160
www.fiaf.org Box office 11–7 Tue–Fri, 11–3 Sat

The location of interesting lectures and weekly French


films, this space is also open for productions ranging
from light opera and ballet to various concerts. Acous-
tics are great in the main 400-person auditorium,
while next door’s Tinker Auditorium is more intimate.

Tickets for Broadway Theaters theater tickets – often 25–50% off the full price –
The two main agencies selling theater tickets are but you will have to line up and you can’t use a
Telecharge (212 239 6200, www.telecharge.com) and credit card. The main outlet is on the little island
TicketMaster (212 307 4100, www.ticketmaster.com). called Duffy Square at 47th and Broadway (Mon–Sat
These are convenient, but you may be charged up to 3–8pm, Sun 11am–7:30pm; for matinees Wed & Sat
$9 extra for handling fees. If you want to try your 10am–2pm). A less crowded outlet is at the South
luck at a discount agency on the day of performance, Street Seaport on the corner of John Street and Front
TKTS (www.tdf.org/tkts) offers great deals on Street (Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–7pm).

124 Book ahead online, and beat the queues, at www.enewyork.dk.com


Upper East Side & Upper West Side
The Comic Strip stand-up showcase 8 G1
1568 2nd Avenue (between 81st & 82nd Sts) • 212 861 9386
www.comicstriplive.com Shows nightly

Jerry Seinfeld started his career with a regular act here.


There’s a casual atmosphere, cabaret-style seating,
and traditional stand-up. Thursday is “new talent
night,” while Mondays often feature comics from far
and wide auditioning for regular spots. Reserve tickets
by phone, and check out discounts on the website.

92nd Street Y emporium of activity 10 F4


1395 Lexington Avenue (at 92nd St.) • 212 415 5500
www.92y.org

Established in the 19th century as a men’s Hebrew


association, the 92nd Street Y has since become a
more diverse cultural institution. With a wide-ranging
bill of artists, entrepreneurs, and politicians, the Y’s
two halls have hosted performances and talks by
Yo-Yo Ma, Bill Gates, and Kofi Annan.

Carnegie Hall supreme concert hall 7 D5


881 7th Avenue (at 57th St.) • 212 247 7800
www.carnegiehall.org

Tchaikovsky conducted the Carnegie Hall’s inaugural


concert over a century ago and thus the standard was
set. The main hall, the Isaac Stern Auditorium, seats
just under 3,000; the Zankel Hall focuses on jazz and
contemporary music; the smaller Weill Hall has good
acoustics for recitals and chamber music.

Merkin Concert Hall on-air sound 7 B3


129 West 67th Street (between Broadway & Amsterdam Ave.)
• 212 501 3330
www.elainekaufmancenter.org/merkin.htm

The resonance in this auditorium is wonderful and it


is often used for live radio recordings. Performances
cover classical, jazz, funk, and other genres. Both the
balcony and the orchestra seating provide good
views, and the art gallery diverts during intermissions.

The official Broadway theater district spans a 12-block stretch from West 41st Street to West 53rd 125
Performance

Lincoln Center for the 7 B3 Tully Hall. Altogether there are nearly 20 performance
Performing Arts rich pickings for culture vultures spaces and a host of other facilities, including a
Straddling Broadway and Amsterdam (between library and studios for budding musicians and actors.
62nd and 66th Sts)
Tours of the complex run regularly and last an hour,
Box office 212 721 6500 • Tours 212 875 5350
www.lincolncenter.org
focusing on history, stories, and architecture.
The central outdoor fountain, designed by American
One of the world leaders in performing arts since the Modernist architect Philip Johnson, is a popular
1960s, Lincoln Center has 12 resident organizations, meeting point before a show. It is also close to the
including a Chamber Music Society, a Film Society, spot where the Christmas tree, bedecked in musical
Jazz at Lincoln Center, The New York City Ballet, instrument ornaments, stands during the holiday
Metropolitan Opera, New York City Opera, and the period. Damrosch Park hosts a free outdoor concert
New York Philharmonic. series, usually in August. The Mostly Mozart Festival
Formerly the slum area of Lincoln Square, the is a perennial favorite, while Midsummer Night Swing
15-acre site was first envisaged as an arts complex in features a wide range of dance music.
the 1950s, the scheme being eventually realized with Renovations are expected to take place over the
the support of John D. Rockefeller and President next few years to give some of the buildings a facelift
Eisenhower, among others. The Philharmonic Hall and to enhance acoustics. The Vivian Beaumont
opened in 1962, and was followed a few years later Theater, beyond the reflecting pool and Henry Moore
by the New York State Theater, the Vivian Beaumont sculpture, has already been refurbished and hosts
Theater, the Metropolitan Opera House, and the Alice wonderful theatrical productions.

126 www.enewyork.dk.com
Upper West Side
Makor culture with hip twist 7 C3
35 West 67th Street (between Central Park W. & Columbus Ave.)
• 212 601 1000
www.makor.org

Frequented by a 20- to 30-something crowd, Makor –


associated with the 92nd Street Y (see p125) – offers
film, discussions, theater, and music, including jazz,
funk, and a cappella. Allow time for a drink in the
café before a show. It has a healthy singles scene too.

Stand-Up NY heard the one about…? 7 B1


236 West 78th Street (at Broadway) • 212 595 0850
www.standupny.com Shows nightly

Stand-Up is the only comedy club on the Upper West


Side, so it’s a popular venue for locals. Get to know
your table neighbors up close and personal as you sit
in on a string of comics delivering their routines. The
standard ranges from decent to hilarious, and past
circuit performers include Robin Williams.

Symphony Space reggae & throat-singing 9 B3


2537 Broadway (at W. 95th St.) • 212 864 5400
www.symphonyspace.org Box office noon–7 Tue–Sun

This newly renovated complex offers a vast array of


theater, film, dance, and music. The main Peter Jay
Sharp Theatre – which seats nearly 700 on a gentle
slope with plenty of legroom – is often used by guest
musicians of the World Music Institute. The Leonard
Nimoy Thalia building now includes a café.

Smoke hot jazz, no tobacco 9 B2


2751 Broadway (at 106th St.) • 212 864 6662
www.smokejazz.com Open 5–4am most nights

Red velvet curtains and low-hanging chandeliers set


the scene in this cozy jazz bar/lounge. If you can’t
accessorize with an instrument, then at least bring an
attentive pair of ears, because the live music is taken
seriously here. There’s seating for 70, with overflow
accommodated at the bar.

127
Performance
Apollo Theater where stars are born 11 D3 Today, the venue welcomes any talent good enough
253 West 125th Street (between 7th & 8th Aves) to withstand the potential boos from the crowd on
• 212 531 5300 Box office 212 531 5305/4
Wednesday’s Amateur Night. Latino music has also
www.apollotheater.com
Box office 10–6 Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri; 10–8:30 Wed; noon–6 Sat
been showcased since 2001, and Showtime at the
Apollo is produced as a syndicated television program.
The Apollo – Harlem’s top attraction – has made such As well as coming here to see a performance, it is
an important contribution to music history and the also worth taking a close look around the theater. The
cultural life of New York that it was designated a lobby Walk of Fame highlights some of the eminent
National Landmark in 1983. Originally a burlesque past performers, such as James Brown, Aretha
theater, in the 1930s the venue became a showcase Franklin, and Duke Ellington. The guided backstage
for African American musicians, singers, dancers, tour offers fascinating oral anecdotes and musical
and comedians, who would perform at the theater’s history. You’ll also get to touch the renowned Tree of
Amateur Night. The careers of many internationally Hope – in reality, a wooden stump mounted on an
famous musicians and singers were launched here – Ionic column. Legendary in the show business world,
Ella Fitzgerald and Michael Jackson were among it is touched by performers before they start their act
those who were first recognized at the Apollo. to bring them good luck.

128 For up-to-date information on seasonal events, visit www.enewyork.dk.com


Above Central Park & Brooklyn
Lenox Lounge booze & Billie Holliday 11 D3
288 Lenox Avenue (between 124th & 125th Sts)
• 212 427 0253
www.lenoxlounge.com Open 11–4am daily

Lenox is a leading music club with a solid repertoire


of live jazz, DJs, and an open jam session on Monday
nights. The front bar is Art Deco in character, and the
lounge has been restored to its original plush design,
including built-in banquettes and zebra stripes in the
back room. Southern-style food is served all day.
A sense of history permeates the proceedings –
jazz heroes such as Miles Davis, Billie Holiday, and
John Coltrane have played in this space. And Malcolm
X is said to have spent many an hour at the Lenox
before being galvanized by the political fight.
Nowadays, the live music ranges from mainstream
jazz through to more esoteric genres. Use the front
room for mingling – the clientele includes regulars,
locals, and jazz aficionados – and then head to the
back for listening and dining pleasure.

Brooklyn Academy 13 C4
of Music performing arts center
30 Lafayette Avenue (between Ashland Pl. & St. Felix St.)
• 718 636 4100
www.bam.org Box office noon–6 Mon–Sat

Far more than just a music academy, the BAM is a


hive of cultural activity, offering live music, opera,
dance, film, and theater. The academy’s first
production was in 1861, and the legendary Ellen Terry
was one of the first actors to perform here.
The main building straddles most of the block and
has a grand lobby. The Rose Cinema has four screens
and very comfortable seating. The Howard Gillman
Opera House has a capacity of a little over 2,000,
while the Harvey Lichtenstein Theater holds 874. From
Thursday to Saturday, you can also catch live perfor-
mances in the BAM café, a great place for a drink or
light meal before or after a show. The famed Next Wave
Festival takes place over three months in the Fall and
features modern works from around the globe.

For a listing of performance venues by type, see pp226–7 129


Performance
Warsaw pierogi & pro sound 13 C1
261 Driggs Avenue (between Eckford & Leonard Sts)
• 718 387 0505
www.warsawconcerts.com

A curious collaboration: hip music venue and main


ballroom of the Polish National Home. Some nights
feature indie and rock groups; others involve Polish
festivals and Polka dance. The bistro offers pierogi
(small pies), and the bar serves strong Polish beer.

Barge Music classical music on the water 2 G3 The barge does move gently during performances but
Fulton Ferry Landing (at Old Fulton St.) • 718 624 4061 there’s little danger of sea-sickness.
www.bargemusic.org
Unusually for chamber music, there is no regard for
Performances at 7:30 Thu, Fri & Sat; 4 Sun
the seasons, and the concert hall is used year-round.
This chamber music concert space is absolutely worth Highly polished performances of Mozart, Bach,
the trip for the quality of the performers, the unique Schubert, Debussy, and Prokofiev might all feature in
setting, and the superb views of the Manhattan a typical month, and guest musicians add zest to the
skyline and Brooklyn Bridge. program. A fortnight in December each year is given
As suggested by the venue’s name, performances over to Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos.
do, indeed, take place on the water, in a converted Before a concert, allow time to wander around the
barge that features wood paneling and an open revamped ferry landing and enjoy some ice cream at
fireplace. Seating arrangements cater to a maximum the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. Round off the evening
of just 125, which encourages an intimacy and by taking a yellow New York water taxi (212 742 1969,
immediacy for the audience and the musicians. www.nywatertaxi.com) back to Manhattan.

130 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn & New Jersey

New Jersey Performing Prudential Hall (2,730 seats) and Victoria Theater
Arts Center (NJPAC) notable in Newark (514 seats) are wonderfully appointed and functional,
One Center Street, Newark • 888 GO-NJPAC (466-5722) with first-rate sight lines and excellent acoustics for
www.njpac.org • Train or PATH from Penn Station (New York)
all seats. The Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater and
to Penn Station (Newark), then LOOP shuttle or walk to NJPAC
Box office noon–6 Mon–Sat; 10–3 Sun
the New Jersey Symphony Orchestra are regular
performers. The complex has also hosted touring
Newark has never looked so appealing. This stunning, productions of musicals (Les Misérables, The Mikado)
multi-million-dollar arts complex was built in 1997, and such diverse performers as Yo-Yo Ma, the Vienna
breathing new life into a downtrodden city and giving Boys Choir, Lauryn Hill, and teen band ’N Synch.
Manhattan residents and tourists alike reason Getting to the NJPAC is not too difficult, but does
enough to cross the water to New Jersey. involve either walking five blocks from Newark’s Penn
The architecture of the main part of the complex – Station, or taking the purple-signed LOOP shuttle bus
defined by glass and brick, and cubed shapes – was for one dollar. The complex has two restaurants: the
the brainchild of Barton Myers and honors the idea of Theater Square Grill, which has a lounge bar, and the
casual urban living. The two performance spaces, Calcada restaurant, which offers alfresco dining.

Sports Venues lands complex, Giants Stadium is the home of three


New York has several capacious sports venues. The soccer teams: the New York Giants, New York Jets
Yankee Stadium was built for the famous baseball (both always sold out), and Metrostars. Madison
team in 1923, and is fun to visit via the Yankee Square Garden is home to ice hockey team New
Clipper ferry. Shea Stadium is home to the New York Rangers and basketball teams Knicks and
York Mets baseball team and lies beneath a flight Liberty. The Garden also hosts big-name concerts,
path to LaGuardia airport. The Beatles famously monster truck rallies, wrestling, boxing, and top dog
played here in 1965 and 1966. Part of the Meadow- and cat shows. For contact details, see p227.

For information about getting tickets to watch the Knicks at Madison Square Garden, see p17 131
bars & clubs
From super-cool cocktail lounges to
dark old ale houses to neighborhood
joints with jukeboxes and pool
tables, New York has bars to suit
everyone. For those in search of an
energetic night out, downtown and
Chelsea have the most lively DJ
bars and clubs, though Brooklyn is
catching up fast. More laid-back
drinkers may prefer to slip into an
easy chair in the swanky cocktail
bars of midtown and the Upper
East Side.
TOP CHOICES – bars & clubs
DJ BARS GAY BARS & CLUBS STAR BARS

Beauty Bar Cubbyhole 2A


231 East 14th Street 281 West 12th Street 25 Avenue A
Expect plenty of 1970s and 1980s Cheeky decor, mammoth Martinis, Downtown rockers The Strokes are
punk and glam rock at this lively and a relaxed, friendly vibe are among the street-credible names
East Village bar, decked out like an enjoyed by a predominantly lesbian associated with this Alphabet City
old-fashioned beauty salon. (See p144) clientele here. (See p148) dive bar. (See p141)

Sullivan Room Hiro


218 Sullivan Street 366 West 17th Street
The warm tones and cushy alcoves Japanese-themed Hiro is a top
induce a loungy atmosphere, the spot for the city’s youthful
mood matched by soulful house models, musicians, and actors
played by resident DJs. (See p146) to congregate. (See p150)

TriBeCa Grand’s Studio Room Roxy Serena


2 Avenue of the Americas 515 West 18th Street Chelsea Hotel, 222 West 23rd Street
The Studio attracts a knowledgeable Evoking the last days of disco, the This subterranean lounge caters to
crowd, appreciative of the club’s top cavernous Roxy hosts the city’s artists and film-makers hoping to
DJ talent, such as Junior Sanchez longest running, most popular gay become a part of the Chelsea
and LCD Soundsystem. (See p183) club night on Saturdays. (See p149) Hotel’s eventful history. (See p149)

Uncle Ming's Stonewall Bungalow 8


225 Avenue B 53 Christopher Street 515 West 27th Street
Fashion-conscious Lower East Siders With regular drag shows, this icon A tribute to Tinseltown, with palms,
flock to Ming’s to hear retro electro of 1960s gay activism is as much mock sunsets, and a strict door
beats and bask in the dim light of about pleasure as politics. (See p147) policy to help homesick Hollywood
ancient chandeliers. (See p146) babies feel at ease. (See p150)

In New York there are strict laws


governing where you can dance.
Dancing is permitted in clubs, but
not in the city’s DJ bars unless they
are hosting special events.

Trash
256 Grand Street, Brooklyn
Punk-glam vinyl upholstery,
beautiful gay boys and girls, and the
dirtiest rock ’n’ roll weekend parties
east of Alphabet City. (See p156)

134 Click into New York’s club scene at www.enewyork.dk.com


TOP CHOICES – bars & clubs
HISTORIC BARS ALFRESCO DRINKING DANCE CLUBS

Bemelmans Bar Glass Cielo


Carlyle Hotel, 35 East 76th Street 287 10th Avenue 18 Little West 12th Street
This uptown lounge has a whimsi- Beyond the sleek, Cubist bar here Seasoned DJs combine with a full-on
cal mural by Madeline creator, lies a patio surrounded by bamboo crowd of clubbers in this small venue
Ludwig Bemelmans. (See p153) trees – the destination of choice for for nights of enjoyable mayhem on
local sophisticates. (See p150) a sunken dance floor. (See p148)

Gowanus Yacht Club Volume


323 Smith Street, Brooklyn Wythe Ave. & North 13th St., Brooklyn
Typifying summer in Brooklyn, this Underground hip-hop DJs, electro
convivial, all-outdoor bar lures a producers, and other creative music
young clientele with cheap beer makers get Brooklynites moving at
and nightly barbecues. (See p155) this warehouse. (See p156)

McSorley’s Old Ale House The website http://nyc.


15 East 7th Street flavorpill.net gives a roundup of
The furnishings, robust ales, and forthcoming club nights and DJs
good cheer remain largely unchanged playing in the city’s bars.
since the days when Abraham
Lincoln drank at this inn. (See p142)

White Horse Tavern Avalon


567 Hudson Street Barramundi 47 West 20th Street
This bar attained fame when, as 147 Ludlow Street A church converted into a cavernous
legend has it, poet Dylan Thomas A Lower East Side rarity, Barramundi dancing and lounging space for
met his demise after a whiskey- has a flower-filled garden, complete Ibiza-scale crowds of clubbers and
drinking session here. (See p147) with fairytale lighting. (See p140) top international DJs. (See p149)

Chumley’s Ava Lounge Galapagos


86 Bedford Street Majestic Hotel, 210 West 55th Street 70 North 6th Street, Brooklyn
A favorite of writers thirsting for On warm nights Ava’s best feature Brooklyn’s home for performance
liquid inspiration ever since the is its patio filled with stylish art, films, and irresistible DJ parties.
1920s Prohibition era. (See p146) cocktail-quaffers. Times Square Musical styles include glam rock,
lies within view. (See p152) techno, and new wave. (See p157)

B-Bar & Grill


40 East 4th Street
At the crossroads of East Village
and West Village, B-Bar invites
both camps into its large,
illuminated back patio. (See p143)

135
Bars & Clubs
Pussycat Lounge trash & banter 1 D4
96 Greenwich Street (at Rector St.) • 212 349 4800
www.pussycatlounge.com Open Mon–Sat from around 9

A quiet block near Ground Zero adopts a delectably


sleazy air when the Pussycat Lounge opens up for the
night. Skip the first floor’s depressing, 60s-style go-
go strip club, and head upstairs for trashy burlesque
shows, live bands, and ribald weekend dance parties.
Try to wear something a little daring. Adm

Winnie’s Chinatown’s livelist karaoke bar 2 E1


104 Bayard Street (between Baxter & Mulberry Sts)
• 212 732 2384
Open noon–4am daily

Someone is singing, and probably butchering, your


favorite song right now here. Know before you go:
1. You’ll pay $1 per song; 2. Swinging the mic is not
allowed; 3. You’ll share well-known choruses (such as
in Neil Diamond’s Sweet Caroline) with the crowd.

Antarctica chilled beer hall 3 C5


287 Hudson Street (at Spring St.) • 212 352 1666
www.antarcticabar.com
Open from 4:30 Mon–Fri, from 7 Sat

The owners of Antarctica claim that their bar has been


in continuous business since the year in which
Guinness was invented: 1759. You don’t have to
believe this, but there is certainly a feeling of age
about the weathered wood floor planks, shining brass
taps, and the picture of 19th-century, mustachioed
drinkers on the wall. The overall effect is not of Earth’s
last frontier either, though Antarctica’s location in the
far reaches of SoHo lends it a certain remoteness
that’s appealing.
The bar has received many plaudits for its down-to-
earth appeal in an upscale neighborhood. It has also
won the “Best Bar to Shoot Pool” title from NY Mag.
Booth seating and pitchers of beer ensure a merry
crowd. Check the website to see if your first name
qualifies you for free drinks on the night.

136 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
THOM’s Bar classy hotel bar 3 C5 ceilings. Modern touches can be seen in the lacquer-
60 Thompson Street (between Broome & Spring Sts) black bar, gracefully arching chrome lamps, and
• 212 431 0400
strongly geometric purple sofas and banquettes.
www.60thompson.com Open from 5 nightly
A typical weekend night attracts an international,
The boutique hotel bar craze that swept Manhattan in casually fashionable crowd partial to specialty cock-
the 1990s shows no signs of fatigue at this bar set in tails. The signature THOM is a blend of the very pure
the lobby of the sleek 60 Thompson Hotel. Skyy citrus vodka, fresh lime, and mint. Sidecars,
A sense of occasion starts to build from the lychee Martinis, Tom Collins, and others are deftly
moment you approach the chic SoHo address. The mixed by bartenders who look as if they’ve stepped
glass entrance is grandly set back from the curb and off the pages of hip lifestyle magazine Wallpaper*.
manned by cordial, black-clad doormen. You’ll be On particularly crowded nights, patrons have no
directed up to THOM’s Bar, which instantly gives the compunction about taking their drinks to the adjacent
impression of classic sophistication with its leather lobby, where the acid jazz music is quieter than in the
parlor chairs, massive marble fireplace, and lofty bar, and seating does not come at such a premium.

137
Bars & Clubs
ñ atmospheric Spanish bar 3 D5
33 Crosby Street (between Grand & Broome Sts)
• 212 219 8856
Open from 5 nightly (to 4am Fri & Sat; cash only)

The labyrinthine lanes of Madrid’s old quarter lie a


considerable distance from SoHo, but past midnight
– especially on Wednesdays – this somewhat
desolate stretch of Crosby Street adopts a distinctly
madrileño mood. As you open the door to ñ
(pronounced “enyay”), the insistent, passionate
rhythms of flamenco immediately grab you.
An intimate and authentic Spanish tapas bar, ñ is
just wide enough to accommodate a few musicians
and dancers for its Wednesday flamenco showcase.
It compensates for its diminutive size, however, with
a genial, Iberian atmosphere. An international mix of
artists and professionals gathers at the long,
gleaming copper bar to choose from a selection of 20
sherries and affordable Spanish wines by the glass.
Among the popular tapas plates are savory toasted
almonds, addictive briny olives, and luscious tetilla
con membrillo: mild, creamy cheese served with a
sweet quince paste.
At weekends patrons pack four-deep at the bar,
which can result in brusque drink service, but
weeknights – Wednesdays excepted – are
comparatively quiet and easygoing. A homely bar,
ñ concedes few points to its style-driven downtown
environs. Except, that is, for the one-way glass on the
bathroom doors. Fear not, however: the only view
afforded is from inside the stall looking out.

Temple Bar for lounging lovers 4 E4


332 Lafayette Street (between Houston & Bleecker Sts)
• 212 925 4242
www.templebarnyc.com Open from 5 Mon–Sat

Exuding luxury and romance from every dimmed


Deco wall lamp, Temple Bar is a favorite destination
among amorous NoHo couples. Discreet servers
bring Martinis to the table, while the sultry crooning
drifting from the speakers raises the seduction ante.

138 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown

Pravda Russian speakeasy 4 E4 evokes the gritty romance of a Moscow train station,
281 Lafayette Street (between Houston & Prince Sts) circa 1929. Statuesque, black-clad servers weave
• 212 226 4944
between throngs of chic patrons, balancing cocktail
www.pravdany.com Open from 5 Mon–Sat, from 6 Sun
(closed Sun in Jul & Aug)
trays laden with generous vodka shots, single-malt
Scotches and house specialties such as the Nolita:
Keen eyes are indispensable for locating this chilled mango-infused vodka, apricot liqueur, and
subterranean SoHo destination, indicated by a lone lime juice. In true vodka-room style, Pravda also
red lamp atop an iron banister. At the entrance, offers an appealing menu of European finger foods,
crimson velvet curtains part to reveal a sprawling from garlicky mussels to smoked-fish plates and caviar.
lounge painted terra cotta and furnished with Upstairs, a tiny lounge, with no more than one
burgundy parlor chairs, candlelit cocktail tables, and couch and a bar, is a prime spot for amorous couples
leaded glass wall lamps. Combined with the Cyrillic – that is, if they can ignore the constant parade of
characters stenciled on low ceiling arches, the scene drinkers traipsing up to use Pravda’s bathrooms.

Lansky Lounge discreet cocktail bar 4 G4


104 Norfolk Street (between Delancey & Rivington Sts)
• 212 677 9489
www.lanskylounge.com Open from 6 nightly

A spacious, modern bar, named after one of the


neighborhood’s most notorious sons, Jewish gangster
Meyer Lansky. Join the uptown crowd through the
“speakeasy” entrance. Excellent classic cocktails,
plus DJs spin hip-hop on Wednesdays and weekends.

New York bars close mostly between midnight and 1am Sun–Thu, and later (2–4am) Fri & Sat 139
Bars & Clubs
Welcome to the 4 F4
Johnson’s the real dive bar
123 Rivington Street (between Norfolk & Essex Sts)
• 212 420 9911
Open 11–5, 6–4 daily (cash only)

While some New York bars may classify themselves


as “dives,” a close inspection often reveals that the
shabby decor has been painstakingly cultivated,
the jukebox song catalogue caters only to esoteric
tastes, the place is full of elitist poseurs, and the beer
is $7 a glass. Whereas the genuine requirements of
an American dive bar are cheap beer, anthemic rock
music, decrepit furniture, and graffitied bathrooms –
nothing else will do.
Fortunately, there is a Lower East Side bar that
delivers the requisite attributes with just the right
touch of self-assured, devil-may-care attitude:
Welcome to the Johnson’s – or, as it’s known to the
regulars, The Johnson’s.
Though it opens late morning, the fun really begins
from around 6pm, as the neighborhood’s young
musicians, professionals, and students make
themselves comfortable on thrift-shop sofas. The
favorite beer, Pabst Blue Ribbon, is absurdly cheap.
Diversions involve playing pool on a warped billiard
table, waging intergalactic warfare on the vintage
video game machine, and feeding dollar bills into
the hard-rocking juke.
A word of caution: The Johnson’s gets very crowded
after 10pm. Also, the bathroom stalls are not for the
squeamish. Consider yourself informed.

Barramundi backpackers’ hangout 4 F4


67 Clinton Street (between Stanton & Rivington Sts)
• 212 529 6900
www.barramundinyc.com Open 6–4 daily

Young travelers feel at home at this funky, Australian-


owned Lower East Side bar. An international crowd
sips reasonably priced beverages on the back room’s
couches while gesturing at the otherworldly wall
sculptures. Daily “happy hour” from 6 to 9pm.

140 Browse New York’s best bars on www.enewyork.dk.com


Downtown
Slipper Room lively entertainment 4 F4
167 Orchard Street (at Stanton St.) • 212 253 7246
www.slipperroom.com Open from 8 nightly

Five dollars is usually all that’s required to experience


anything from burlesque and classic vaudeville
theater to cash-prize trivia nights at this inviting
Lower East Side lounge. The crowd changes according
to the event schedule, but patrons infallibly arrive
equipped with sharp wits and playful attitudes.

Parkside Lounge easygoing joint 4 G4


317 East Houston Street (between Aves A & B) • 212 673 6270
www.parksidelounge.com Open from 1 daily

Cheap beers, generous cocktails, and zero attitude


draw neighborhood residents young and old to the
Parkside. In the afternoon, the affable crowd’s banter
mixes with the jukebox’s classic country. Nighttime
arrivals head straight to the back room, where
bluegrass bands and burlesque troupes perform.

Chez es Saada North African vibe 4 F4


42 East 1st Street (between 1st & 2nd Aves) • 212 777 5617
www.chezessaada.com Open from 6 nightly

Follow the trail of fresh rose petals from the undistin-


guished street-level lounge down into a sumptuous
Moroccan-style grotto. Here, fashionable lovebirds
steal kisses across candlelit alcove tables, singles flirt
at the bar over signature plum Martinis, and North
African rhythms evoke a world far away.

2A rocking bar & upstairs lounge 4 F3


25 Avenue A (between 2nd & 3rd Sts) • 212 505 2466
Open from 4–4 daily

For better or worse, 2A has become an easy place to


spot a hip celebrity. New Wave and punk music from
the 70s set the tone at the street-level bar. The couch-
filled upstairs lounge is cozier, with a more flirtatious
atmosphere. Though most of the clientele drinks beer,
2A’s red wine selection should not be overlooked.

141
Bars & Clubs
KGB vodka & old Russia 4 E3
85 East 4th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves) • 212 505 3360
www.kgbbar.com Open from 6 nightly

Detached from the frenetic barhopping of nearby


2nd Avenue is this Bolshevik-red, dimly-lit den of
Soviet nostalgia. Staff keep glasses full of vodka or
Central European imported pilsners, while bookish
patrons turn up for occasional readings by guest
novelists. Vintage Leninist posters adorn the walls.

Swift Celtic vibe 4 E3


34 East 4th Street (between Bowery & Lafayette St.)
• 212 260 3600
www.swiftbarnyc.com Open noon–4am daily

A mural of Irish satirist Jonathan Swift raising a pint of


Guinness welcomes Irish expats, NYU students, and
everyone else to this spacious pub. Come for the
wide draft beer selection, hearty pub food, sharp-
witted bartenders, weekly live Irish music, and cheer.

McSorley’s historic ale house 4 E3


15 East 7th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves) • 212 473 9148
Open from 11am Mon–Sat, from 1pm Sun

Reputedly New York’s oldest bar, McSorley’s hasn’t


changed much since Civil War president Abraham
Lincoln hoisted his tankard here. You’ll still find
sawdust littering the wooden floor, drinkers from
around the globe crowding the rustic booths, and
robust dark and pale ales on draft. (See also p17.)

Angel’s Share cocktails with a Tokyo flavor 4 E2 Nevada Smith’s soccer-oriented bar 4 E2
8 Stuyvesant Street (at 3rd Ave.) • 212 777 5415 74 3rd Avenue (between 11th & 12th Sts) • 212 982 2591
Open from 7 nightly www.nevadasmiths.net Open 11am–4am daily

Standing is not allowed, nor are groups exceeding Diehard soccer fans, behold your Manhattan head-
four people, but with these criteria met, Angel’s Share quarters. Upstairs, jersey-wearing Europeans and a
is a wonderful place for cocktails. In fact, you might dusting of Americans sip pints while watching their
not find better classic mixes anywhere downtown. favorite teams on TV. Downstairs, the scene is differ-
There’s an extensive sake selection and delicate ent, with dim lighting, polished wooden furnishings,
Japanese bar snacks too. Service is exemplary. and, on Thursdays, stand-up comedy.

142 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown

B-Bar & Grill East-West Village crossover 4 E3 neighbors to the east. Inside the handsome dining
40 East 4th Street (between Bowery & Lafayette St.) room and at the bar, retro vinyl booths, wood-
• 212 475 2220
beamed ceilings, and mammoth framed photographs
www.bbarandgrill.com Open 11:30–3am Mon–Fri,
10:30–3am Sat & Sun
suggest a hip, East Side sensibility; yet this is executed
with a polish befitting a refined West 4th Street bistro.
Barring an electrical blackout, you cannot miss the Neighborhood allegiances aside, everybody unites
B-Bar: a neon red sign protrudes from the facade, and in their love for B-Bar’s cocktails. Take note, however:
towering trees sparkle under a multicolored blanket of the pretty hues of apple, lychee, and watermelon
festive lights. Aside from its location between New Martinis belie their explosive potency. Regarding the
York’s East and West villages, this former petrol “Grill” portion of the name, B-Bar offers a varied, if
station has other attributes that place it on the somewhat uneven, American diner menu. But the
nocturnal crossroads of the East/West divide. The crowd-pleasing, busy, prix-fixe brunch on the
fabulous outdoor patio – with its nicely spaced tables weekend brings the nighttime vibe into day: chatty
and bar – draws equal numbers of conservative West crowds, outside seating in good weather, and an
Villagers and their counterculture-embracing unlimited supply of Mimosas and Bloody Marys.

143
Bars & Clubs
Bar Veloce Italian-style wine bar 4 E2
175 2nd Avenue (between 11th & 12th Sts) • 212 260 3200
www.barveloce.com Open from 5 nightly

This comfortable, sleek little wine bar would not look


out of place on the elegant streets of Florence.
A smart menu of Italian snacks, from toasted panini
to Nutella and fruit plates, gives peckish drinkers
something to nibble while choosing a wine. Glasses
are priced under $10, bottles up to $80.

Beauty Bar intimate theme bar 4 E2


231 East 14th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Aves) • 212 539 1389
www.beautybar.com Open 5–4 nightly (from 7 Sat, Sun)

True to its name, the place is swathed in retro beauty-


salon kitsch. East Village rockers and NYU graduate
students sip potent cocktails bearing names like “Aqua
Net” at the bar, while 1970s glam rock and punk blare
out. Check out the “happy hour” until 9pm weekdays
for deals on drinks. Manicures are on offer, too.

Lotus 3 A2
409 West 14th Street (between 9th & 10th Aves)
• 212 243 4420
www.lotusnewyork.com Open 10pm–4am Tue–Sun

It’s been several years since this sleek, sexy club


opened its black lacquer doors in a neighborhood
best known for wholesale meat butchers, rumbling
garbage trucks, and transvestite prostitutes. In so
doing, Lotus helped blaze the trail that converted the
Meatpacking District into a hotbed of nightlife.
Imitated throughout the city, Lotus’s design is still
the best, with three distinct areas for lounging upstairs,
pan-Asian dining on the ground floor, and dancing
below. The place exudes a subtle Eastern warmth,
with its mix of blonde and cherry woods, rusty-red
walls, and half-moon banquettes. The cocktail menu
features signature blackberry Caipirinhas. Friday’s
house party GBH pulls in a serious dance crowd, while
Saturday’s blend of 1980s pop and contemporary hip-
hop draws a more mainstream, uptown element. Adm

144 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Korova Milk Bar homage to a cult film 4 F2
200 Avenue A (between 12th & 13th Sts) • 212 254 8838
www.korovamilkbar.com Open from 7–4 nightly

From the rounded, swooping white script above the


doorway to the geometric zebra stripes lining the
entrance hall, visitors to Korova know a distinctive
visual experience awaits them. The entire place is a
homage to Stanley Kubrick’s 1971 film about brutality
and youth, A Clockwork Orange; indeed, the bar takes
its name from the film (it was the haunt of Malcolm
Macdowell’s band of miscreants). Once inside, film
buffs will immediately recognize many references,
such as the stark white, wigged and lipsticked
mannequins protruding from the walls. The cinematic
homage continues with wall-mounted video monitors
and curvaceous, matching black and white recliners
swathed in vinyl and velvet, perched on a platform
opposite the exceptionally long bar. Korova is a final
destination on the East Village/Alphabet City
barhopping circuit, so before midnight the spacious
floor has room to spare.
After midnight, 1970s punk and glam blares, while
a throwback bunch of mods, punks, and stragglers
recounts the night’s wanderings over cheap beer, Jack
Daniel’s shots, and wicked vodka gimlets. For those
who possess the stomach for it at such an hour,
Korova’s series of signature cocktails, Molokos (of
course), should not be missed. The Moloko is an ice
cream-based concoction, mixed with any number of
liqueurs and flavorings, served in a Martini glass and
kept cool in an ice-filled miniature fishbowl.

Rue B Gallic-style retreat 4 G2


188 Avenue B • 212 358 1700
Open from noon Mon–Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun

Rue B’s seductive air renders any intention of East


Village barhopping pointless. The Parisian-style bar is
decked out with comfy banquettes, offers respectable
French wine, bistro menus, and – its coup de grâce –
hosts live jazz with no cover charge. With all that on
offer, there’s no need to go anywhere else.

DJ bars usually charge an entrance fee after around 10 or 11pm 145


Bars & Clubs
Uncle Ming’s cozy, crazy lounge 4 G2
225 Avenue B, 2nd Floor (between 13th & 14th Sts)
• 212 959 8506
www.unclemings.com Open 7–4 Tue–Fri (from 8 Sat)

Discreetly plying its trade above a liquor store, this


unmarked lounge has the atmosphere of a party that’s
strictly for the in-crowd. Deep purple and pink lighting,
old chandeliers, strong cocktails, and DJs spinning
electro beats inspire a flirtatious vibe among the cool.

Sullivan Room relaxed clubbing 3 C3


218 Sullivan Street (between Bleecker & W. 3rd Sts)
• 212 252 2151
www.sullivanroom.com Open from 10 Thu–Sun

This modest, subterranean West Village jewel is one


of those rare spaces in which you can feel comfort-
able whether you’ve come to dance to soulful house,
lounge with friends, or converse at the bar. A
refreshing lack of attitude comes with the territory. Adm

Vol de Nuit Belgian beer & cheer 3 C3


148 West 4th Street (at 6th Ave.) • 212 982 3388
Open from 7:30 nightly

Behind an inconspicuous door on West 4th, Vol de


Nuit counts eight Belgian brews on draft – each
served in its appropriate style of glass – and dozens
of others in bottles. Snacks are wonderful: Belgian
fries served in paper cones, and mussels paired with
irresistible sauces. There’s an outdoor courtyard, too.

Chumley’s former speakeasy 3 B3


86 Bedford Street (between Grove & Barrow Sts)
• 212 675 4449 Open from 5 daily

“Eighty-sixed,” the American bartender’s code for


denying service to a particularly inebriated patron,
evolved from the address of this institution in the
1920s Prohibition era. Booth seating and yellowing
portraits of famed writers who once sipped their pints
here round out the warm, convivial pub atmosphere.

146 To find out how to get across town after hours, check www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Stonewall famous & still fabulous 3 B3
53 Christopher Street (at 7th Ave.) • 212 463 0950
Open from 2:30pm daily

When this bar’s predominantly gay male clientele


resisted a police raid in 1969, the ensuing riot touched
off NYC’s gay activist movement. Stonewall demands
reverence, but it’s also a fun place. Campy 1960s pop
music and multicolored lighting dominate the main
bar, and drag queens strut their stuff nightly.

Blind Tiger Ale House serious beers 3 B3


518 Hudson Street (at W. 10th St.) • 212 675 3848
www.blindtiger.citysearch.com Open noon–4am Mon–Fri,
(from 1 Sat & Sun)

West Village beer connoisseurs hoist their pints at the


convivial Blind Tiger. No fewer than 24 microbrews
chill on draft. It’s one of New York’s most friendly,
casual places for mid-week beer drinking. Go on
Wednesday evening for free cheese parings.

White Horse Tavern writers’ haunt 3 B3


567 Hudson Street (between Perry & W. 11th St.)
• 212 243 9260
Open from 11am daily

Few New York bars shelter as many literary ghosts as


the White Horse Tavern. Before the West Village
became a gentrified expanse of French bistros and
NYU dormitories, this circa-1880 bar was a favorite
spot for the neighborhood’s Bohemian writers to
brood over 20-cent ales. But the address attained
infamy in 1953, when – as legend has it – the Welsh
poet and dramatist Dylan Thomas dropped dead
outside, the victim of undiagnosed diabetes and
untold whiskeys. Fittingly, posters from Thomas’s
theatrical productions line the dark wood walls.
Grandfather clocks, porcelain horses, a pressed tin
ceiling – even the bartenders’ amiable rapport with
afternoon regulars – evoke a bygone era. But it’s
decidedly 21st-century after work and at weekends,
when crowds fill the bar and adjoining dining rooms.

147
Bars & Clubs
Cubbyhole one for the girls 3 B2
281 West 12th Street (between W. 4th St. & Greenwich Ave.)
• 212 243 9041
Open from 4–4 Mon–Fri (from 2 Sat & Sun)

If the suspended goldfish figurines, Chinese lanterns,


and whimsical bar stools at this lesbian bar don’t
charm you, perhaps this will: half-price drinks until 7pm,
all-you-can-drink specials on Saturday nights, and
notoriously huge Martinis. Very friendly and casual.

Rhône cavernous wine bar 3 A2


63 Gansevoort Street (between Greenwich & Washington Sts)
• 212 367 8440
www.rhonenyc.com Open from 5:30 Mon–Sat

Among the Meatpacking District’s industrial-chic night-


clubs, Rhône is an enormous wine bar with a copper
bar and futuristic, lime-green recliners. Gallery owners,
models, and downtown professionals sip any of 30
vintages by the glass, and nibble from tasting plates.

Cielo award-winning dance club 3 A2


18 Little West 12th Street (between 9th Ave. & Washington St.)
• 212 645 5700
www.cieloclub.com Open 10–4 Wed–Sat

Soulful house with Latin grooves leave patrons little


choice but to abandon their suede banquettes and
storm the sunken dance floor. Co-owned by DJ Nicolas
Matar (well-known on the Ibiza scene), Cielo attracts
clubbers and top DJs from around the world. Adm

Daytime Bars Cabin Club at Pinetree Lodge has a huge back patio
When a thirst for something stronger than bottled where potent fruit slushes are dispensed to a fun,
water strikes you during midtown sightseeing, these flirty crowd. Afternoon sophistication abounds at
bars make welcome stops. The daytime crowd at the rooftop Mica Bar, within blocks of the United
Rudy’s Bar & Grill in Hell’s Kitchen is as friendly as Nations. A parlor atmosphere pervades the Hudson
any you’ll find, and Miles Davis on the jukebox Hotel’s Library Bar, where chessboards, architec-
makes a welcome change from the classic rock ture books, and a purple-felt billiard table are all at
barrage of neighboring bars. Murray Hill’s campy guests’ disposal. For full addresses, see p228.

148 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown
Roxy perennially popular nightclub 3 A1
515 West 18th Street (between 10th & 11th Aves)
• 212 645 5156
www.roxynyc.com Open Wed, Fri & Sat nights

Friday-night house, salsa, and hip-hop tend to mean


this most massive of Chelsea clubs is overrun by a
young crowd. By contrast, Wednesday Roller Skating
nights offer a fun, if bruising reminder of disco’s last
days. Saturday brings NYC’s biggest gay party. Adm

Avalon Chelsea club with attitude 3 C1


47 West 20th Street (at 6th Ave.) • 212 807 7780
www.nyavalon.com Check website for club nights

Avalon occupies hallowed ground on two counts: it’s


housed in a Gothic church and is the former address
of Limelight, a legendary 1980s club that engendered
near-religious devotion among its regulars. These
days, a mixed gay and straight crowd comes to lounge
and dance to the sounds of the world’s top DJs. Adm

Eugene upscale schmoozing post 6 E5


27 West 24th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 212 462 0999
www.eugenenyc.com Open from 5–4 Thu–Sat

Realized in Art Deco retro, Eugene is a spacious


supper club designed with big spending in mind.
Well-dressed Flatiron professionals nibble tuna
tartare in the cream-hued dining room, then settle
themselves onto burgundy banquettes and ottomans
in the adjacent lounge. There’s dancing on weekends.

Serena soft pink lounge 5 C5


Chelsea Hotel, 222 West 23rd Street (between 7th & 8th Aves)
• 212 255 4646
www.serenanyc.com Open from 6 Tue–Fri, from 7 Sat & Sun

It’s had a makeover to meet fire-safety standards, but


the home of pop culture personalities hasn’t lost its
touch. The Chelsea’s subterranean Serena lounge
delights with its new velvet couches and pink walls
up front, and Moroccan motifs in the adjacent rooms.

For advice on tipping in bars, see p233 149


Bars & Clubs
Hiro hotel lounge with a Japanese theme 3 A1
366 West 17th Street (at 9th Ave.) • 212 727 0212
www.themaritimehotel.com Open from 10 nightly

The lounge at the Maritime Hotel is Chelsea’s


brooding-celebrity scene of the moment. Fashion
models and rock stars sip sake, while, behind a
luminescent rice paper wall, more energized guests
move to 1980s pop, rock remixes, and electro in Hiro’s
sizeable ballroom. Not famous? Try a weeknight.

Glass receptacle for the beautiful people 5 B5


287 10th Avenue (at 26th St.) • 212 904 1580
Open Tue–Sat 8–4

An ultra-cool design and Brazilian electro rhythms


draw Chelsea’s gallery set to Glass like magnets. In
summer, the bamboo-filled patio is the site for one of
Manhattan’s most exclusive people-watching scenes.
Models, artists, and curators mingle over caipiruva
cocktails, made from cachaça rum and crushed grapes.

Bungalow 8 West Coast seduction 5 B4


515 West 27th Street (between 10th & 11th Sts) • 212 629 3333
Open from 10 nightly

Nightlife impresario Amy Sacco delivers a cozy, albeit exclusive,


Hollywood Hills-inspired lounge to Chelsea’s young style mavens.
Strike your most unaffected L.A. pose – $30 glass of champagne
in hand – amid swimming pool murals, quirky designer furniture,
and potted palms. A digital “sunset wall” stands in for that most
essential of Californian ingredients – the sun setting on the ocean.

Spirit holistic nightlife 5 B4


530 West 27th Street (between 10th & 11th Sts) • 212 268 9477
www.spiritnewyork.com Open from 10 Fri & Sat (Wed, Thu &
Sun occasionally)

Eastern and Native American religions have inspired


this “wellness club.” Spirit has three zones: Mind, a
holistic spa with massage rooms; Body, an immense
dance space, with superstar DJs; and Soul, an organic
restaurant, overlooking the dance floor. Adm

150 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown
Copacabana salsa, meréngue & samba 5 B3
560 West 34th Street (between 10th & 11th Aves)
• 212 239 2672
www.copacabanany.com Open from 6 Tue, Thu, from 10
Fri–Sun

With its plush beige banquettes and Art Deco palm-


frond motifs, the capacious Copa evokes the glamour
of a 1940s supper club in Havana. Massive dance
floors and stage. Dress strictly to impress. Adm

The Ginger Man distinguished ale house 6 E3


11 East 36th Street (between Madison & 5th Aves)
• 212 532 3740
www.gingermanpub.com Open from lunchtime daily

This handsome bar includes all the accoutrements of


a classic pub: lustrous woods, booth seating, and
hearty food. Despite the vintage Guinness signage,
it’s Belgian ales and single-malt Scotches that fill the
glasses of most regulars and visitors.

Campbell Apartment pricey cocktails 6 F2


15 Vanderbilt Avenue, Southwest Balcony,
Grand Central Terminal • 212 953 0409
www.hospitalityholdings.com Open 3–1 Mon–Sat, 3–11 Sun

For all its restored Beaux Arts splendor, Grand Central


Station can still be a hassle. But the sting of crowds
and late trains can be swiftly soothed by the divine
cocktails at Campbell Apartment. Formerly the office
of 1920s railroad tycoon John W. Campbell, it looks
every bit the inner sanctum of a prosperous American
industrialist, with dark wood paneling, monstrous
stone fireplace, and intricate, leaded glass windows.
Suited midtown professionals unwind on comfy
parlor furniture or on high bar stools, tapping feet to
swing and calypso rhythms. The deceptively potent
libations include Prohibition Punch – a mix of passion
fruit juice, cognac, Grand Marnier, and champagne.
A small balcony provides more privacy for latter-day
John W.s to discuss mergers and acquisitions. Note:
no sneakers, jeans, or baseball caps are allowed.

151
Bars & Clubs
Métrazur Grand Central splendor 6 F2
East Balcony, Grand Central Terminal • 212 687 4600
www.charliepalmer.com/metrazur
Open 11:30am–3pm Mon–Fri, 5–10:30pm Mon–Sat, 2–8 Sun

Métrazur packs enough panache to lure rail travelers


and non-commuters alike to Grand Central’s East
Balcony. Smart professionals relish Charlie Palmer’s
beautifully crafted cocktails, such as the Riviera:
Dubonnet, Grand Marnier, blood orange and lime juice.

Single Room Occupancy discreet bar 7 C5


360 West 53rd Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 212 765 6299
Open from 5–4 Mon–Sat

This Theater District cubbyhole might be midtown’s


best-kept secret. Ring the outdoor buzzer, and a
member of staff will show you into a dark bar, where
chic patrons sip Malbecs and full-bodied Brooklyn
Monster Ale served in elegant glassware. House
music pounds from the stereo.

Ava Lounge modernist vision at the Majestic 7 D5


Top of Majestic Hotel, 210 West 55th Street (between
Broadway & 7th Ave.) • 212 956 7020
www.avaloungenyc.com Open from 5 daily

The 1950s Golden Age of cocktail culture is evoked


here through gorgeous linear furnishings, geometric
patterns on the bar, designer Martinis, and jazzy house
music. The outdoor patio comes into its own in summer
– you’ll be mesmerized by nearby Times Square.

Flûte Theater District champagne lounge 7 D5


205 West 54th Street (between Broadway & 7th Ave.)
• 212 265 5169
www.flutebar.com Open 5–4 Mon–Sat (live jazz Thu–Sat)

Velvet couches, Belle Époque poster art, discreet


alcoves, and cuddling couples create a cosy, romantic
mood. Choose your bubbly from 100 bottles (18 are
available by the flute). Tasting plates feature smoked
salmon, tuna tartare, and foie gras. Live jazz and DJs.

152 To look up bars with music, visit www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown & Upper East Side
Russian Vodka Room for connoisseurs 7 C5
265 West 52nd Street (between 7th & 8th Aves)
• 212 307 5835
Open from 4 daily

Gloss, glamour, and rampant pretension are the


usual hallmarks of Manhattan lounges with extensive
vodka selections. Fortunately, the Russian Vodka
Room dodges this unsavory trend. The block’s bois-
terous theater crowds rarely even notice RVR’s black
awning amid the twinkling lights, which means that
proceedings inside the windowless lounge are intimate
and relaxed. East Europeans, young and old, sit at the
crescent-shaped wood bar or alcove tables, talking
animatedly over music from a resident pianist.
No fewer than 50 kinds of the potent spirit fill the
shelves. The large glass jars you may notice above
the coat rack hold home-made vodka infusions – try a
bracing shot of horseradish, tangy cranberry, or
mellow pear. An extensive menu of Russian
delicacies, from borscht to caviar, is also available.

Baraonda Italo-Latin festivity 8 G2


1439 2nd Avenue (at 75th St.) • 212 288 8555
www.baraondany.com Open from 5:30 Mon–Sun

Baraonda single-handedly proves that staid Upper


East Siders can, in fact, party. Around midnight, the
restaurant transforms into a Latin American dance
house, with samba, techno, and rock en español
compelling revelers to gulp down sangría and dance
on the tables. (Skip the middling, overpriced food.)

Bemelmans Bar cabaret & cocktails 8 E1


Carlyle Hotel, 35 East 76th Street (at Madison Ave.)
• 212 744 1600
www.thecarlyle.com Open noon–2am daily

Ludwig Bemelmans, creator of the Madeline children’s


book series, painted the exquisite zoological mural in
this superb uptown piano lounge. Top cabaret acts,
subdued lighting, and peerless classic cocktails set
the tone for romantic evenings. Attire can be casual.

153
Bars & Clubs
Jimmy’s Uptown jazz & more in Harlem 11 D3
2207 Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Boulevard (at 130th St.)
• 212 491 4000 Open from early evening daily; also for gospel
brunch Sun

Jimmy Rodriguez gives classic Southern soul food a


gourmet twist (think filet mignon with horseradish
grits). After dinner, the slick dining room transforms
into one of Harlem’s hottest clubs, with live jazz, R&B,
and reggae. Local hip-hop impresarios are fans.

Frank’s Lounge DJ bar 13 B4


660 Fulton Street (between Lafayette & S. Elliot Sts)
• 718 625 9339
www.frankscocktaillounge.com Open from 5 nightly

New York’s best classic 1960s soul and R&B jukebox


sets the weeknight mood for nights of bonhomie
among the clientele and the bar staff. Weekends are
when DJs play hip-hop and soulful house, and the
dance floor is jam-packed with Brooklyn’s urban elite.

Zombie Hut surprisingly refined lounge 13 B4


261 Smith Street (between Degraw & Douglass Sts)
• 718 855 2736
Open from 5:30 nightly

The cartoonish name suggests tiki bar clichés such as


plastic palms and grass skirts, but this intimate
cocktail lounge on Brooklyn’s restaurant row is a
dreamier, plusher evocation of Polynesia. Young
couples share potent Mai Tais by the stone fireplace,
while jazzy electronic music plays. The ambience is
friendly but probably not for those who are looking
for a quiet couple of beers.
Ultra-colorful cocktails such as the Tiki Torch,
Singapore Sling, and Scorpion Bowl are quite
reasonably priced but pack a punch and (warning!)
may have a tiny palm tree or a monkey floating in
them. Try a pink and powerful Frozen Zombie with
orange juice, rum and grenadine (to name a few of its
poisons), just to kick off and you’ll probably not
remember much more of the evening.

154 www.enewyork.dk.com
Above Central Park & Brooklyn
Gowanus Yacht Club local gem 13 B4
323 Smith Street (at President St.) • 718 246 1321
Open May–Oct: from mid-afternoon daily

Summer in Carroll Gardens means strolls in the park


and beers at the Yacht Club. Nautical only in name,
this tiny outdoor bar feels as convivial as a suburban
backyard. Patio furniture, sizzling burgers and festive
lights keep a hip crowd lingering long after their
cheap domestic beers have been drained.

Great Lakes graduates’ gathering 13 C4


284 5th Avenue (at 1st St.) • 718 499 3710
Open from 6 nightly

This spacious Park Slope favorite, with its worn


couches, young, amiable crowd, and cracking indie-
rock jukebox, suggests a college dormitory lounge for
grown-ups. Defend your thesis anew over a Brooklyn
Lager while making friends at the bar or out on the
sidewalk with the banished smokers.

Bars with Views West Side couples and families. The preferred
For all the millions of dollars sunk into New York’s retreat among young, cosmopolitan travelers keen
myriad theme bars and luxe lounges, a bar with on seeing and being seen is the new Hotel
appealing views will have endless allure. Sky Bar, Gansevoort’s aptly named Plunge Bar, adjacent to
atop the Herald Square outpost of the La Quinta the hotel’s rooftop pool. Sleek patio furniture and
Inn chain, offers ample proof. The 14th-floor terrace an unfalteringly beautiful clientele are formidable
compensates for the diminutive size of its split distractions from the 360-degree views.
outdoor/indoor patio and undistinguished drinks The View, on the 47th floor of the Marriott
by providing spectacular views of the Empire State Marquis Hotel, underwent a renovation in 2004
Building, which literally towers above you. It’s a that removed the dance floor, but the bar still
popular gathering spot for the neighborhood’s slowly revolves over Times Square. Comfy chairs
young after-work crowd. and a famed mixologist make this a great spot to
The Boat Basin Café presents as rarified a setting unwind (www.nymarriottmarquis.com/hotel/view).
for drinking beer and quaffing burgers as any in As a counterpoint to all this refinement, nothing
New York: a quirky, spacious complex, with matches the gritty charm of hoisting your plastic
limestone archways in its outdoor courtyard that beer cup at the weathered bar of Ruby’s at Coney
are reminiscent of a Moorish grotto. Watch Island, where salty breezes and the boardwalk’s
sailboats ply the Hudson from your shaded, colorful, wonderful spirit can be enjoyed free of
riverfront patio table along with sociable Upper charge. For full addresses, see pp227–8.

Another café-bar with a superb view over Central Park is The Met’s Roof Garden Café (see p172) 155
Bars & Clubs
Buttermilk Bar Brooklynite classic 13 C5
577 5th Avenue (at 16th St.) • 718 788 6297
Open from 6 nightly

Operated by the same people as Great Lakes (see


p155), Buttermilk is remote by Park Slope standards,
but worth seeking out for its hip young atmosphere.
There’s an excellent indie-rock jukebox, ample booth
seating, and Brooklyn Brewery beers on tap. A locals’
local, Buttermilk’s a place to chat with Brooklynites.

Trash gay & lesbian bar 13 C2


256 Grand Street (between Driggs & Roebling Sts)
• 718 599 1000
Open 5–4 nightly

Trash (formerly Luxx, then Toybox) has established


itself as the bar of choice for Williamsburg boys and
girls who like to rock. Glittery vinyl booths fill with
young singles nightly, but it’s jam-packed on Fridays
and Saturdays, when there’s backroom dancing.

Larry Lawrence easy-going lounge 13 C2 Spuyten Duyvil Belgian beers/wicked fun 13 C2


295 Grand Street (between Roebling & Havermeyer Sts) 359 Metropolitan Avenue (at Havermeyer St.) • 718 963-4140
• 718 218 7866 Open from 5 nightly
Open from 6 nightly
A hundred different bottled beers and six rotating
This bi-level Williamsburg space flaunts all the cask ales await beer connoisseurs at this cozy
sophistication of a Manhattan lounge, without the Williamsburg bar. The bright red facade hints at
pretension. Below, neighborhood professionals and merriment. Inside, you’ll find locals sampling rare
artists sip reasonably-priced Martinis and wines by the Belgian brews, snacking on hot soppressata (spicy
glass. Above, smokers enjoy the views from an atrium. salami) sandwiches, and sharing group toasts.

Black Betty Trashablanca 13 C2


366 Metropolitan Ave (at Havermeyer St.) • 718 599 0243
Open Mon–Fri 5–4, Sat & Sun 7–4

Williamsburg hipsters flock to this intimate bar-


lounge featuring Middle Eastern decor and food in
the adjacent restaurant. Think dive bar meets Arabian
bordello, with pumpkin-colored walls, sofas, red
velvet and beaded curtains, and tapestries. Music
can be either a live band, a DJ, or from the jukebox.

156 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn

Galapagos playhouse for the arty 13 B2 it, a projection screen suspended in the air. Behind
70 North 6th Street (between Wythe & Kent Aves) this theatrical entrance, the performance and bar
• 718 782 5188
area fills up with the neighborhood’s hip young
www.galapagosartspace.com Open from 6 nightly
members of Brooklyn’s arts and music scene. Lushly
Almost every New York neighborhood boasts a space illuminated with ingenious spotlighting, the intimate
where the values, styles, and habits of its residents stage hosts everything from avant-garde rock bands
fuse into something emblematic. For Williamsburg – to risqué burlesque troupes – usually enthusiastically
Brooklyn’s much-hyped bastion of artistic activity – it supported by friends in the audience.
is Galapagos. Anchoring North 6th Street’s minimally Ocularis, a weekly film series, features domestic
appointed bistros, cutting-edge boutiques, and and international cinema. A film’s director or one of
remaining vacant warehouses, the venue gives voice its actors is often invited along for a post-screening
to musicians, wall space to film-makers and painters, discussion. Weekends bring DJs spinning electro, rock
and a great excuse for visitors to visit Williamsburg. ‘n’ roll, soul, breakbeats, and more.
A soft magenta spotlight points out the door, Some nights carry a cover charge, so check the
beyond which sits a huge reflecting pool and, above website for information about scheduled events.

For a listing of bars & clubs by category, see pp227–9 157


streetlife
Away from the well-known tourist
destinations are neighborhoods
where New Yorkers shop, eat, and
just hang out. To experience the
variety and energy of authentic
NY life, you need to visit places
frequented by recent immigrants as
well as born-and-bred New Yorkers.
This chapter is the insider’s view of
where things happen for the locals
– snapshots of street culture in a
bubbling, bustling metropolis.
Streetlife
Lunchtime on 1 D4
Wall Street Finance District frenzy
For a quintessential New York phenomenon, head to
Wall Street between noon and 2pm on a weekday, and
join the fast-paced business crowd for lunch. There
are numerous delis and sandwich shops, including
Cosi, Pret a Manger, the Green Market, and the
Amish Fine Food Market. Be warned, though: ordering
a sandwich in this high-powered financial district is
not for the timid. Decide in advance what you want
and be prepared to bark your order to an impatient
server, who will yell “next” if you show any hesitation.
Once you’ve got through this experience, sit on the
steps of Federal Hall, opposite the Stock Exchange.
This is a good place for gazing along the concrete
canyons. Alternatively, find a space in Bowling
Green Park (south end of Broadway) or by the river in
Battery Park. For a little calm after the lunchtime storm,
Trinity Church (Map 1 D4) offers daily tours at 2pm,
and Monday and Thursday music concerts at 1pm.

Canal Street chopsticks & bargains 2 E1


A visit to New York isn’t complete without a walk along
the main thoroughfare of Chinatown. Canal Street is
always crowded with cars and people: a jumble of
languages making themselves heard within the din.
Street vendors peddle NYC T-shirts, counterfeit
Rolex watches, and all manner of cheap knick-knacks.
Ignore these and focus instead on the fresh produce,
red bean buns, and Chinese paraphernalia in the stores
on Canal Street and the quieter side streets of Bayard,
Pell, and Mott. The Chinatown Ice Cream Factory on
Bayard (No. 65) is an essential stop in summer; HSF
on Bowery (No. 46) is fantastic for dim sum. Great NY
Noodle Town on Bowery (No. 281/2) also has good food.
For an insight into the local culture and history,
visit the Museum of Chinese in the Americas, at the
intersection of Mulberry and Bayard. The Mahayana
Buddhist Temple on Canal Street (No. 133) is another
Sino-American establishment that’s worth a look;
with a bright yellow facade it’s impossible to miss.

160 For more cafés, bars and restaurants in New York’s neighborhoods, see www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
West 4th Street Courts 3 C3
on 6th Avenue sport on the streets
A simple area of asphalt by West 4th Street has
become so popular for basketball that it has been
officially recognized by the NYC Parks Department.
Casual “pick-up” games occur year-round, and a
summer tournament draws semi-pro players from
around the world. Get in on the action: grab a hotdog
from a street vendor, and cheer the players.

Meatpacking District gentrified area 3 A2


This historic district in the westernmost pocket of
West Village, just below 14th Street, is undergoing
rapid change. In its 19th-century heyday, the area
housed over 200 slaughterhouses and meatpacking
plants. A handful of these remain, but most of the
meat business has moved up to the Bronx or out of
the city altogether. The former meat storage facilities
– many of them listed as landmarks – are being
reborn as cafés, restaurants, galleries, bars, and chic
stores, and the Meatpacking District is now the hang-
out of models and celebrities. A shiny limousine is
more often spotted than a side of beef these days.
Remnants of the past can be seen, however, in
architectural details. The curious metal awnings over
the roads, for example, would have protected the
meat as it was being moved off the trucks.
Cobbled Gansevoort Street was once a notorious
spot for transvestite and she-male prostitutes. Diner/
bistro Florent (see p38) opened on this street in 1985,
pioneering the area’s path to gentrification. Other
established venues include Cielo (see p148), a club
where dancing is taken seriously, and French bistro
Pastis (see p221). High-end fashion boutiques Stella
McCartney (see p73), Alexander McQueen (see p223),
and Jeffrey (see p74) are steps away at 14th Street,
while designer furniture is available at Karkula Gallery
and Vitra (see p224 for both). The former Gansevoort
Docks now form part of the Hudson River Park. A water-
side path is used by pedestrians, runners, cyclists,
and roller-bladers, and leads past some scenic piers.

Visit www.meatpacking-district.com for more information about the area’s shops and restaurants 161
Streetlife
Tompkins Square 4 G2
Park Dog Run canine romps
If Fluffy isn’t wearing the latest Burberry sweater, that’s
okay, so long as he’s behaving and not sporting a
spiked, pronged, or pinched collar. Toys aren’t allowed
either because “toys cause fights.” These are some of
the many rules, carefully displayed at the entrance to
the dog run at Tompkins Square Park. This singular
spot is the culmination of the American obsession
with regulations and the New Yorker’s need to give
his or her dog room to promenade and socialize.
Once the preserve of drug users and prostitutes, the
park is decidedly bourgeois now – the orderly dog run
and its prim owners are a testament to that. Once you
have gazed at the dog-walking spectacle over the fence
(no people without dogs allowed in, and vice versa),
stroll along 9th Street and Avenues A and B. In contrast
to the dog run, these roads have a funkier vibe. Notable
cafés include Itzocan (438 East 9th St.), and Rue B
and DT–UT on Avenue B (Nos. 188 & 41, respectively).

Chelsea Flea Market & 3 D1


Union Square Markets deals for steals
Outdoor Market open 8–5 Sat & Sun • Union Square Green
Market open 8–6 Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat • Holiday Market open
from day after Thanksgiving until Christmas Eve

Chelsea’s weekend flea and antiques markets are


prime for finding anything from belt buckles and old
buttons to botanical drawings, maps, vintage
clothing, axes, and lace. The Outdoor Market on the
northwest corner of 24th Street and 6th Avenue is a
mélange of curios and furniture. Antiques Garage and
Antiques Annex are geared more towards antique
treasures, but also harbor a fair share of junk.
Both are worth a browse; there’s a $1 admission to
get into the Annex. A few blocks further south,
Union Square Green Market showcases farmers’
stalls offering fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, and baked
goods. During winter, the Holiday Market takes over –
a mine of handmade jewelry, T-shirts, candles,
massage oil, paintings, and hats.

162 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown & Above Central Park
Subway Passages: Grand Central 6 F2
to Times Square underground music
Grand Central Station and Times Square are connect-
ed by an underground Shuttle train, and the subway
passages at either end of the short route are abuzz
with New York energy, as bustling workers swarm
through the passageways on their way to and from
work. In these tunnels you’ll also find excellent
musicians, their performances good enough to make
even the most determined commuter slow down to
catch a few bars. While you may come across the
occasional “rogue” performer – who’ll set up and
play wherever there’s space – most are part of the
MTA’s Music Under New York program. The scheme
promotes a variety of music, including jazz, Cajun,
African, classical, Asian, and bluegrass. A stringent
audition process held each year ensures that a
high standard is maintained. Look for the authorized
performers, who display an orange and black
“Music Under New York” banner.

125th Street gateway to Harlem 11 D3


One of the main roads in Harlem, 125th Street came
to prominence during the Harlem Renaissance of the
1920s, when it became synonymous with dancing
and jazz clubs. Since then the street has been the
main commercial center for Harlem’s predominantly
black community and, over time, has provided the
backdrop to civil rights activism and a creative
flourishing of music, painting, literature, and drama.
Having gone through a prolonged period of eco-
nomic depression and attendant crime problems,
125th street is back to being a vibrant thoroughfare
again, with a mix of gentrified boutiques, mainstream
chains, and street vendors. Some would argue that
the soul of Harlem has moved to smaller side streets,
but 125th remains the hub. For tours of Harlem, check
out Harlem Spirituals, Radical Walking Tours, or Big
Apple Jazz Tours (see p226). See if you can catch a
gospel service at the Lenox Lounge (see p129) or some
Southern-style cooking at Amy Ruth’s (see p217).

For information about Harlem’s famous Apollo Theater, see p128 163
Streetlife

Brooklyn Heights 13 A4 The strip isn’t very long, but you can combine the
Promenade sublime views of Manhattan stroll with a perusal of Brooklyn Heights and its beauti-
This is one of the best vantage points for a panorama fully maintained brownstones. Back on Montague
of Manhattan. It’s also a great place to enjoy a stroll – Street, there are several decent places to eat, such as
alone, hand in hand with a lover, or lead in hand with Teresa’s restaurant (No. 80), which offers tasty and
your dog. Grab an espresso at Connecticut Muffin at authentic Polish fare alongside grilled cheese and
115 Montague (the main commercial street) and head hamburgers. Retail stores include Heights Books (No.
towards the water to get onto the walkway. 109), which specializes in second-hand publications.
A favorite spot for both locals and visitors, the Alternatively, you can take a different route from
promenade offers a mix of calm (despite the fact that the promenade and walk along Columbia Heights to
it overlooks the Brooklyn to Queens expressway), the Fulton Ferry landing, where you can buy an ice
and excitement – a thrill instilled by the awesome cream at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory before
view of Manhattan that confronts you every time catching a water taxi over to Manhattan. To extend
you look across the water. your walk further, cross via the Brooklyn Bridge.

Red Hook Food Stalls spice & soccer 13 B5


Corner of Bay and Clinton streets
Sat & Sun (end of Apr to first weekend in Oct)

Weekends in Red Hook’s playing fields are dedicated


to soccer, socializing, soaking up rays, and working
one’s way through as much delicious, home-cooked
Latin American food as possible. Mexico, Honduras,
Guatemala, and Colombia are all well represented.
Try out your Spanish, and be willing to experiment.

164 Check out local events in New York through www.enewyork.dk.com


Brooklyn
Bedford Avenue Williamsburg’s heart 13 C2 Williamsburg, a profusion of artists, and a Polish
Williamsburg is a compact area in north Brooklyn, contingent that has spilled over from Greenpoint. The
packed with the accessories of bourgeois bohemia – Polish influence can be seen and tasted in places
funky cafés, hip bars, renovated lofts, fashion such as Cukiernia (a Polish bakery at No. 223) and
boutiques, and a few more trendy cafés. And Bedford S & B Polish Restaurant (No. 194).
Avenue is at its pulsating heart. This is an area that The Bedford Avenue strip is most lively between
has changed dramatically in the last ten years, and North 6th and 10th streets. For a cool coffee stop, try
some bemoan the arrival of Brooklyn’s hip young Verb Café (No. 218), and watch the locals sitting at
things, who have pitched camp, placed their laptops rickety wooden tables, indulging in java, listening to
on the counters of every café and bar in sight, and by off-beat music, and playing checkers. The Verb is
their very presence have raised the rents. However, connected to a mini-mall that houses a variety of
others are grateful for the attention the neighborhood establishments, including an Internet café, the famed
is receiving and are happy to see some of the disused Bedford Cheese Shop, a vintage clothing store, and
factories converted into apartments, stores, and clubs. the bookstore Spoonbill and Sugartown (see p88).
It is true that some of the grit may have been Try Bliss Café (No. 191) for veggie delights, or a slice
replaced by something funkier, lighter, and more of delicious pizza at Anna Maria’s (No. 179). Note-
affluent, but it is possible to find an earthy feel to the worthy stops are Metaphors (No. 195) for women’s
neighborhood once you look beyond the iPods and clothing and Spacial (see p89) for interior design.
messenger bags (which you can pick up for a snip at Check out the Brooklyn Lager Brewery (79 North 11th
Brooklyn Industries, No. 162). This is an eclectic Street), and take a free tour on Saturday (1–4pm) or
locale, incorporating a Hasidic community in South indulge in Friday Night’s Happy Hour (6–11pm).

For the art scene in Williamsburg, see p108 165


Streetlife

Brighton Beach (249 Brighton Beach Avenue) has an impressive


Boardwalk sea, sand, and snacks selection of Eastern European delicacies.
q B, Q to Brighton Beach; F, D, Q to Coney Island/Stillwell Ave. The boardwalk provides a vantage point for a lovely
The Russian enclave of Brighton Beach at the south- beach and water view. If you walk all the way along it,
ern tip of Brooklyn, also known as “Little Odessa,” you’ll reach Coney Island, where you can’t miss the
has much to offer for a day trip from Manhattan. New York Aquarium (www.nyaquarium.com) and
The Brighton Beach Boardwalk is alive with Slavic Astroland (www.astroland.com). This amusement
languages, chess games, the smell of the ocean, and park has the famed and rickety-looking Cyclone roller-
a whiff of borscht wafting from one of the boardwalk coaster, which now has National Landmark status.
cafés. For the area’s best food and prices, however, For the full Brighton Beach/Coney Island experience,
go off the boardwalk and eat “inland” at Café Glechik have a Nathan’s Hotdog from the original outpost on
(3159 Coney Island Avenue) or Café Arbat the corner of Surf and Stillwell. This is where the July
(306 Brighton Beach Avenue). Try the vareniki (similar 4th Hotdog Eating Championships take place. If you
to pierogi or ravioli) and drink a wholesome fruit visit in mid- to late June, check www.coneyisland.com
compote. If you want to pick up snacks to take back to to find out when New York’s aquatic version of Mardi
the waterfront, M & I International Food Market Gras, the Mermaid Parade, struts down Surf Avenue.

166 www.enewyork.dk.com
Brooklyn, Queens & The Bronx
Roosevelt Avenue vibrancy and spice
q Roosevelt Avenue subway station is served by the
7, E, F, V, G and R trains

Roosevelt Avenue is one of the main thoroughfares


through the Queens neighborhood of Jackson Heights,
and is a veritable smorgasbord of cultures and food,
including Colombian, Chinese, Indian, Pakistani,
Korean, and Mexican. As soon as you leave the subway
station, your olfactory sense starts working overtime to
decipher the wafts of exotic ingredients that are being
mixed in various kitchens. The area may lack aesthetic
appeal, but it compensates in variety and vitality.
Along the adjacent 74th Street, you’ll find stores
full of phonecards, toys, food, and confections.
For a meal try Jackson Diner (No. 37), or visit Patel
Brothers Market (Nos. 27–37) to see myriad fresh and
dried Asian spices and vegetables. Also on 74th
Street, you’ll find dazzlingly intricate jewelry as well
as colorful saris and beautiful silk cloth in Sahil Sari
Palace (Nos. 37–55).

Arthur Avenue a mini Little Italy


q 4 or D subway train to Fordham Rd then No. 12 bus east;
2 or 5 subway train to Pelham Parkway then No. 12 bus west
www.arthuravenuebronx.com

Another testament to the New York patchwork of ethnic


communities, Arthur Avenue, in the north Bronx, is
suffused with southern Italian traditions. The strip
offering the best in Italian produce is between 187th
Street and Crescent Avenue. Here you can find some
of the freshest and tastiest Italian food on this side of
the Atlantic. The Egidio Pastry Shop (622 East 187th
Street) sells scrumptious chocolate cakes and
excellent cannoli (deep-fried tubes of pastry with a
sweetened ricotta filling), along with superb espresso.
You can buy the best home-made pasta and ravioli
(rolled out and cut right in front of you) from Borgatti’s
(632 East 187th Street). Shops and stalls tease the
senses with an array of salamis, parmigianos, pastas,
and seafood. Italian is spoken widely on the street
and there’s a relaxed, family-oriented vibe. Mangia!

Combine a visit to Arthur Avenue with a trip to the Botanical Gardens or Wave Hill (see p175) 167
havens
In New York, there’s no need to
leave the city limits in order to find
a piece of nirvana. Along with
parks and gardens, there are yoga
centers, spas, churches, and tea
rooms to retreat to. Vantage points
at the tops of the city’s towers
provide inspirational views. And out
at its farthest reaches – whether at
Wave Hill in the Bronx or in the
marshlands of Jamaica Bay – you
may well discover an unexpected
“wild” side to New York.
Havens
The River Project waterside pleasures 1 B1
Pier 26, off West Street (at N. Moore St.) • 212 233 3030
www.riverproject.org Open 11–5 daily

Just a few steps from Tribeca, this “estuarium” and


research center is a perfect place to come for a deep
breath or to confess to the marine gods for having just
eaten sushi at neighboring Nobu (see p38). Watch the
boats and learn a bit about the local marine life from
informative displays and the friendly volunteer staff.

Bliss SoHo top-notch spa 3 D4


568 Broadway, 2nd Floor (at Prince St.) • 212 219 8970
www.blissworld.com Open 9:30–8:30 Mon–Fri (12:30–8:30
alternate Weds); 9:30–6:30 Sat

Forget about the outside world for a couple of hours,


slip on a soft robe and slippers, and indulge in home-
made brownies, apples, and fresh juices while you
wait for your chosen treatment. Bliss has three
locations in New York, but the SoHo spot – the Bliss
flagship – is the one to seek out. Both men and
women are pampered here, in a space reminiscent of
a ship’s interior. Treatments cater for the whole body,
from head to toes, but the Bliss forte is facials.
The trademarked Triple Oxygen Treatment and Fully
Loaded facials are extremely popular with beauty-
conscious New Yorkers. Alternatively, book a basic
facial and add on treatments from an amazing à-la-
carte menu, which offers masks, lip plumping, and
capillary zapping. The changing rooms have saunas,
steam rooms, and showers for further relaxation.

Angel Feet divine foot relief 3 B3


77 Perry Street (between Bleecker & W. 4th Sts) • 212 924 3576
www.angelfeet.com Open 10–9 Mon–Fri, 10–8 Sat & Sun

As the name of this jewel-box sized basement room


suggests, a reflexology session here is truly heavenly.
The treatment rids feet of soreness and is given while
you sit in one of two plush chairs that take up most of
the intimate space. Relaxing music, candles, and a
fragrant water mist for the feet add to the experience.

170 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown & Midtown
Jivamukti Yoga 4 E3
Center for body and spirit
404 Lafayette Street, 3rd Floor (between Astor Pl. & E. 4th St.)
• 212 353 0214
www.jivamuktiyoga.com Open 11:30–8 Mon–Fri, 9–6:30 Sat
& Sun

Calm your senses and align your posture with one of


a vast selection of hatha yoga classes, offered
throughout the day. Jivamukti, with two Manhattan
locations, has made yoga accessible to New York’s
masses. You can simply drop in for a class or join an
open meditation session, but it’s generally worth
calling ahead to check that space is available.
Throughout the building, the aroma of fragrant oils,
mellow music, mood lighting, and a soothing
waterfall help the process of relaxation. Massage
treatments, workshops, lectures, and yoga demos are
held regularly. Take note: the etiquette at the center
dictates that shoes are to be taken off before you enter
the clean, loft-like studio areas and changing rooms.

Wild Lily Tea Room zen relaxation 5 B5


511a West 22nd Street (between 10th & 11th Aves)
• 212 691 2258
www.wildlilytearoom.com Open 11–10 Tue–Sun

Take time out from shopping, gallery hopping, and


sightseeing at a place that takes tea very seriously.
There’s no need to be stressed out by the range of
teas available; if you’d like to venture away from a
regular teabag, staff will guide you through a wide
selection of loose black tea blends, and jasmine,
ginseng, green, barley, and berry teas.
With a maximum capacity of 32 people, Wild Lily
isn’t big, but the high ceilings and tiny goldfish pond
in the front create a fresh, airy, and Zen-like ambience.
As you sip, enjoy the simplicity of the Japanese decor,
and the neat bento boxes, trays, and tea sets. The
food is fresh, inventive, and tasty; there’s traditional
British fare, such as scones with clotted cream, as
well as intriguing concoctions, such as pea and yogurt
soup, and green-tea cake. Sake is also available.

For a selection of other fine tea rooms, see p31 171


Havens
The Spa at the Mandarin 7 C4
Oriental luxurious respite
80 Columbus Circle (at 60th St.), 35th Floor • 212 805 8880
www.mandarinoriental.com Open 9–9 Mon–Sun

It’s not cheap, but this spa is worth the expense!


Splurge on wonderful body treatments, including
exotically named massages such as Life Dance and
Balinese Body. Herbal infusions are prepared daily by
a chef (and are free), and almonds and dried fruits are
offered in the Tea Lounge, which has stunning views
of the Hudson River and the West Side of Manhattan.
The decor is inspired by crisp Asian simplicity,
elegance, and style: tiny candles line the carefully
appointed hallway, and orchid buds decorate surface
tops. Be sure to take advantage of the many
amenities available as part of a visit to the spa, such
as the Vitality Pool, the amethyst-crystal steam room
(where eucalyptus oil is available to soften the skin),
and the “rainforest experience” shower. Round it all
off with some quality time in the Relaxing Room.

Top of the Tower @ Beekman 6 G1


Tower Hotel 26th-floor calm
3 Mitchell Place (at 49th St. & 1st Ave.) • 212 355 7300
www.topofthetower.citysearch.com Open 5–1 daily

A jewel of a space with wonderful views and a full


cocktail menu. The calm atmosphere, unhurried
service, and superb vantage point take you far away
from the street-level clamor. Get a table by the window,
from where the roof slopes vertiginously downward.

The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor 8 E1


Roof Garden art & leisure
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 5th Avenue (at 82nd St.)
www.metmuseum.org • 212 535 7710
Open May–late Fall: 10–4:30 Tue–Thu & Sun, 10–8:30 Fri & Sat

Gorgeous views, sculpture in the foreground, and wine


or cappuccino to lift your spirits. The joys of an elevat-
ed outdoor space are combined with art from the Met’s
collection and the whole of Central Park as a backdrop.

172 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown & Upper East Side
Conservatory Gardens at 10 E2
Central Park floral sanctuary
Entrance on 5th Avenue and 105th Street • 212 360 2766
www.centralparknyc.org Open 8am–dusk daily

Wildflowers, pruned rare roses, trimmed hedges, trees,


and a thousand other floral delights are carefully
arranged within these six acres, the most studiously
tended area in Central Park. It’s no wonder that New
York brides scramble for permits for wedding ceremon-
ies within these garden walls, or that school teachers
are keen to bring classes for story-time sessions.
The central fountain is glorious in spring, when the
wisteria that surrounds it bursts with purple, violet,
pink, and white blossoms. Two more fountains are set
closer to Fifth Avenue, one encircled by concentric
rings of flowers. The fragrance, peace, and quiet of this
garden is perfect for sitting on a bench, writing post-
cards, and taking time to reflect. There are free tours
(rain or shine) on Saturdays from April to October; meet
at Vanderbilt Gate on Fifth and 105th Street at 11am.

The Ramble at 7 D2
Central Park green mazes
Enter via 5th Avenue or Central Park W. (between 72nd & 80th Sts)
www.centralparknyc.org

The Ramble is the perfect place to get lost in a web of


winding paths which cross 36 acres of wonderfully
dense wooded areas, encompassing ponds, small
bridges, and rocky outcrops. The wilderness factor in
this pocket of Central Park is so great that the National
Audubon Society has ranked the Ramble as one of
the top 15 bird-watching sites in the whole of the U.S.,
putting it among National Parks such as Yosemite and
geographical regions like the Everglades. If you visit
early in the morning, you’ll see die-hard birders at
their regular spots, sporting binoculars and sipping
cups of coffee or hot chocolate. The rest of the day
brings a more diverse crowd, most of them with a more
leisurely interest in a lunchtime stroll or a rendez-
vous. Note that the Central Park website refers to The
Ramble within the Great Lawn section of the park.

The Ramble is a great place for a wander after visiting the Met (see p103) 173
Havens
The Rotunda 8 E4
at The Pierre traditional tea
The Pierre Hotel, 2 East 61st Street • 212 838 8000
Afternoon tea served 3–5:30pm daily

This is New York’s best spot for afternoon tea. The


atmosphere is gracious and welcoming, with a high,
domed ceiling above, and linen and fresh flowers at
your table. Choose a three- or five-course tea,
depending on your appetite for sandwiches and cakes.

The Cathedral Church of 9 B1


St. John the Divine glorious peace
1047 Amsterdam Avenue at 112th Street • 212 316 7540
www.stjohndivine.org Open 7–6 Mon–Sat, 1–7 Sun

Begun in 1892 but still unfinished, St. John’s will be


one of the largest cathedrals in the world when com-
pleted. However, its size and huge vaulted ceilings do
not intimidate; rather, the church envelops you, and
encourages a sense of well-being. Smaller chapels
are reserved for prayer during the day, and services
are held in the nave on Sunday at 11am and 6pm,
with the Cathedral Choir in full voice. The organ,
however, was damaged in a fire in 2001, and is
awaiting repair once sufficient funds are raised.
Stained glass, intricately carved altars, and fine
stonework is found throughout the cathedral, along-
side modern interpretations of religious icons. These
include a three-paneled, white and gold-leaf altar-
piece by the late graphic designer and artist Keith
Haring. As you walk down the central aisle, look up at
the stunning Great Rose Window, an extraordinary
creation made from over 10,000 pieces of stained
glass in patterns dominated by hues of vibrant royal
blue and calming indigo.
Next to the cathedral is a Children’s Sculpture
Garden, which exhibits a selection of bronze animal
sculptures created by school children aged between
5 and 18. After your visit, head to the Hungarian
Pastry Shop across the street on Amsterdam Avenue
(1030). There you can have a snack, and mingle with
the erudite Columbia University set.

174 Read reviews of New York’s health and beauty centers at www.enewyork.dk.com
Upper West Side, The Bronx & Brooklyn
Wave Hill escape to an estate
675 West 252nd Street • 718 549 3200 • q Riverdale
www.wavehill.org Open Spring & Summer: 9–5:30 Tue–Sun
(to 9 Wed); Fall & Winter: 9–4:30 Tue–Sun

It’s hard to believe that you’re still within NYC limits


(the Bronx no less) when you visit the well-situated
and beautifully laid out garden and cultural center of
Wave Hill. Part of Wave Hill’s mission is to connect
people with nature; to this end it presents impressive
horticultural and art exhibits, and offers an array of
environmental workshops, and musical and literary
performances. Regular events include storytelling,
poetry readings, and chamber music and jazz
concerts. T’ai chi is taught in the grounds too.
The café at Wave Hill House is a great spot, partly
for the sustenance it offers, but mostly for the excep-
tional views. For another great view, walk along one
of the paths through the white-columned pergola
covered in flowering plants, and look downriver to the
suspension cables of the George Washington Bridge.

Prospect Park the lungs of Brooklyn 13 D5


Wollman Rink: 718 287 6215; Prospect Park Zoo: 718 399
7339; Kensington Stables: 718 972 4588
www.prospectpark.org

Designed by the dynamic duo of landscape design


Olmstead and Vaux (the planners of Central Park),
Prospect Park is a lesser-known but equally enjoyable
green playground for New Yorkers – Brooklynites in
particular. It’s a place to cycle, run, stroll, picnic, bird-
watch, and skate, and every season has something to
offer. Winter is the time for ice-skating at the
Wollman Rink; summer brings colorful local festivals
and concerts at the Bandshell. Prospect Park Zoo is a
year-round family favorite, and other perennial
attractions include horse-back riding on a track by
Kensington Stables, and birding at the beautiful
Audubon Center (www.prospectparkaudubon.org).
Locals often use the park drive, also known as the
loop, for bike riding, roller-blading, and running.
Check the website for a list of seasonal events.

175
Havens
Brooklyn Botanic Garden paradise 13 D4
1000 Washington Avenue • 718 623 7200
www.bbg.org Open 8–6 Tue–Fri, 10–6 Sat & Sun & hols;
closes at 4:30 Oct–Mar

Your olfactory and visual senses will be sharpened in


the wonderfully maintained BBG. A visit here may be
rewarded by bluebells in late spring or the scent of
roses in summer, while May’s Cherry Blossom Festival
will transport you to the orchards of Asia (see p10).

Jamaica Bay Wildlife Crossbay Boulevard and turn right; the refuge
Refuge an antidote to city life entrance will be on your left after 10–15 minutes.
Crossbay Boulevard, Broad Channel • 718 318 4340 On the way, you’ll pass waterfront houses on stilts
q A train to Broad Channel Open sunrise to sunset daily
and wooden platforms.
This wild habitat in the huge bay south of JFK airport The visitor center has a small but informative
is where New Yorkers go to escape the intensity of the interpretive area explaining the history and features
city and delight instead in tranquillity, bird-watching, of the refuge, including the abundant wildflowers.
and walking. The train takes an hour from Manhattan, Jamaica Bay is a regular rest stop for migrating birds,
allowing you to adjust to a different pace and prepare and teems with airborne life as thousands of shore,
for another world. The journey is interesting as well: land, and water birds flock to its wetlands; over 320
before the train reaches Broad Channel stop, it travels species have been spotted. Benches along the main
along a stretch of track surrounded by marsh and water path allow you to sit, observe, and listen to bird
on either side, which heightens a sense of remoteness. songs. Particularly captivating, though, is the contrast
Walking to the refuge from the stop is straight- of freshwater ponds, marshes, and wildlife set
forward. Go along Noel Road until you reach against the distant skyline of Manhattan.

176 For more peaceful corners of New York, browse www.enewyork.dk.com


Brooklyn & Queens

Noguchi Sculpture distractions while you contemplate the work, allowing


Museum intimacy, solitude, design the art of Noguchi to be the sole focus of attention.
32–7 Vernon Boulevard, Long Island City (entrance on 33rd Rd.) The space – its aesthetic a refined, pared-back
• 718 204 7088 • q N & W trains to Broadway
Modernism – contains several galleries; some are
www.noguchi.org Open all year 10–5 Wed–Fri, 11–6 Sat & Sun
exposed to the elements, others are fully enclosed.
Several million dollars-worth of renovation work has There is also a garden, with a majestic, fully grown
ensured that this museum (which reopened in 2004 Katsura tree and a subtle fountain sculpture. At its
after a two-and-a-half-year closure) will continue to center is what appears to be a bottomless pool.
inspire. It has an intimacy that’s not often found in art The park is a place to reflect, to relax, and to
spaces; the renovations have not contributed to a appreciate art without having to fight a crowd or have
“blockbuster experience” in the manner of the down- museum attendants hovering over your shoulder.
town museum revamps, but rather have attempted to There’s an on-site café for light snacks, and a store
refine the concrete and wood space. that stocks a wide range of design books and
This Museum is a tribute to the Japanese-American Noguchi’s trademark rice-paper lamps.
sculptor, landscaper, and set designer Isamu Noguchi, While in the area, it’s also worth dropping by the
who established a studio in this Queens neighbor- Socrates Sculpture Park a little further north on Vernon
hood in 1961. Noguchi created beautiful pieces made Boulevard (www.socratessculpturepark.org). On the
of materials such as wood, marble, basalt, and metal, bank of the East River, the park exhibits temporary
and his sculptures are in a multitude of shapes and installations of sculpture by international
textures. The museum is designed to eliminate contemporary artists.

177
hotels
The independent hotel scene is
stronger in New York than in any
other major city. More than half
the hotels are not affiliated to a
national or international chain,
which means that they are
particularly good at providing
individuality, character, and style.
Rooms don’t come cheap, but
there are deals to be had with a
little planning. Check hotel and
reservation agency websites to get
the best deals.
TOP CHOICES – hotels
ROMANTIC HIDEAWAYS GASTRONOMIC LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Soho House New York www.in-newyorkmag.com lists hotel Bevy’s SoHo Loft
29–35 9th Avenue restaurants in the city. 70 Mercer Street
Enjoy the rooftop pool, soak in a With Bevy and fellow guests for
generously sized tub, or romp around company, a stay here is like sharing
your private “playroom” – perfect a spacious apartment right in the
for romantic trysts. (See p184) middle of SoHo. (See p182)

St. Regis Harlem Flophouse


2 East 55th Street 242 West 123rd Street
Plush and luxurious, St. Regis The fun, jazzy vibe of the Flophouse
is a place to pamper and be will instantly make you feel part of
pampered. Excellent bathrooms New York. Interior details evoke early
and great service. (See p186) 20th-century Harlem. (See p190)

Bed & Breakfast on the Park Hotel Wales 1871 House


113 Prospect Park West, Brooklyn 1295 Madison Avenue East 62nd Street
This small hotel is just steps away The place to stay for a delicious and Many suites or studios here come
from lovely Prospect Park. Its top- hearty breakfast, including fresh with a kitchenette and fireplace, so
floor room has prime views and a scones and fluffy omelets, at you can pretend you’ve got your
four-poster bed. (See p191) Sarabeth’s Kitchen. (See p191) own pied-à-terre. (See p188)

The Mark Union Street B&B


25 East 77th Street 405 Union Street, Brooklyn
With an extensive wine list and A warm ambience and well-stocked
fine French-American cuisine, The bookshelves (and even a welcome
Mark’s restaurant offers a refined for pet dogs) make this B&B feel
dining experience. (See p189) like a family home. (See p191)

Mercer Hotel www.affordablenewyorkcity.com lists


147 Mercer Street B&Bs and fully furnished apartments.
If you can tear yourself away from These offer good value for stays of over
the hotel’s elegant rooms and deep a week and even better value if you are
tubs, the Mercer Kitchen is a fashion- in town for a month or more.
able haunt for fine dining. (See p182)

180 Check out the best deals and reserve a room on www.enewyork.dk.com
TOP CHOICES – hotels
BEST OF THE BARGAINS STYLE STATEMENTS GREAT LOCATION

Washington Square Hotel The hippest areas are the easy-


103 Waverly Place going downtown neighbourhoods,
Super budget prices for clean, if such as SoHo and the Village, but
flowery, rooms in a desirable Village the largest concentration of hotels is
location. Breakfast is also included midtown, close to the theaters and
in the price. (See p183) department stores.

Chelsea Inn Four Seasons


46 West 17th Street 57 East 57th Street
The Chelsea Inn has low rates and Ideal for shopping sorties on
kitchenettes in the rooms. It is set Hotel prices will usually be quoted Madison Avenue – afterwards you
in a great location two blocks from without tax. Be sure to check the figure can drop your bags and put up your
Union Square. (See p185) once City and State taxes are added. feet in the luxurious spa. (See p188)

Chelsea Lodge Hudson Abingdon Guest House


318 West 20th Street 356 West 58th Street 13 8th Avenue
A spotless lodge, with wooden The spectacular courtyard, roof ter- Feel the pulse of the West Village
floors, TVs, and shower stalls in race and other lounging spaces here right outside the door of these
every room. Toilets are shared, were created by Philippe Starck and stately townhouses. Each room is
hence the bargain rates. (See p185) the hotelier Ian Schrager. (See p187) individually decorated. (See p183)

60 Thompson W New York, Union Square


60 Thompson Street 201 Park Avenue South
Comfort and style are the themes Just off Union Square, you’ll be with-
throughout. How many hotels have in easy walking distance of such
chairs specially designed and funky neighborhoods as West Village,
named for them? (See p182) Chelsea, and Gramercy. (See p185)

Morgans
237 Madison Avenue
The original “lifestyle hotel,” with
design touches that create a
magical, understated aesthetic
throughout. (See p187)

181
Hotels
Bevy’s SoHo Loft three great rooms 3 D5
70 Mercer Street (between Spring & Broome Sts)
• 212 431 8214
www.sohobevy.com

Bevy – known to many as the “SoHo Mom” – is a real


character, who relishes lively conversation with her
guests. A funky, renovated industrial space filled with
paintings and colorful fabrics, there are just three
rooms, but they’re spacious. Great location. Cheap

SoHo Grand Hotel pet-friendly place 3 D5


310 West Broadway (between Grand & Canal Sts)
• 800 965 3000
www.sohogrand.com

Pets are made welcome here – indeed, if you haven’t


brought your own, you’ll be offered a fish as a room
mate. A selection of CDs is also provided, and you
can buy them, too. As for the 367 rooms: some are
small, but all the beds are big and comfy. Moderate

Mercer Hotel minimalist finesse 3 D4


147 Mercer Street (at Prince St.) • 212 966 6060
www.mercerhotel.com

In a solid 1890 building near the Village, the Mercer


focuses on style and service. The 62 rooms are light
and minimally furnished, and the bathrooms come
with large soaking tubs and Swedish Face Stockholm
cosmetics. The Mercer Kitchen restaurant is worth a
visit, and is a fine spot for celebrity spotting. Expensive

60 Thompson SoHo taste 3 C5


60 Thompson Street (between Spring & Broome Sts)
• 877 431 0400
www.60thompson.com

There are 100 rooms and suites, all with music and
DVD systems. The setting is modern, with a sleek
interior design, plush bedding, and marble bathrooms.
Check out the high-backed chairs, designed for the
hotel by Thomas O’Brien of Aero Studios. Expensive

182 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Tribeca Grand Hotel hip & stylish 3 C5
2 Avenue of the Americas (at Canal St.) • 800 965 3000
www.tribecagrand.com

Built in 2000, this hotel attracts a cool clientele. All rooms


lead off from the Church Lounge, the hub of its atrium-style
layout. The guest rooms match simple, modern design with top
technology in the form of great sound systems and high-speed
Internet access. The hotel offers the same deal on fish and CDs
as its older sister, the Soho Grand (see opposite). Expensive

Washington Square 3 C3
Hotel location, location
103 Waverly Place (at Macdougal St.) • 800 222 0418
www.wshotel.com

This budget option is in a prime Village location, close


to many attractions by foot or subway. The rooms are
a little floral and frilly, but the lobby has a smart, Art
Deco style. Complimentary continental breakfast
makes this even better value for downtown. Cheap

Abingdon Guest House Village comfort 3 B2


13 8th Avenue (between W. 12th & Jane Sts) • 212 243 5384
www.abingdonguesthouse.com

Two landmark townhouses in West Village have been


converted into a guest house with nine rooms. Each
room has its own style, as suggested by the names –
“Martinique,” “Ambassador,” and so on. Prices vary
according to size and decor. Light breakfasts and
lunches are served at its Brewbar café. Cheap

Old Establishments Upper East Side crowd. No stranger to scandal and


With an enviable location at the foot of Central creativity, the Hotel Chelsea has a thousand stories
Park, the Plaza Hotel maintains its reputation for to tell. Each room and apartment is different, and
providing the ultimate in service and comfort. The much of the building is occupied by long-stay resi-
Carlyle on Madison Avenue has been appreciated dents. A great slice of bohemia, the Chelsea has
since the 1930s for its understated elegance, welcomed many writers and musicians, from Mark
superb service, and striking Art Deco design. The Twain and Tennessee Williams to Bob Dylan and
hotel’s Café Carlyle is popular with a well-heeled Sid Vicious. For individual hotel details, see p229.

Cheap: up to $200 for a double room; moderate: $200–$350; expensive: over $350 183
Hotels

Soho House 3 A2 pool. Although not a place for serious laps, the pool
New York chic hotel in the Meatpacking District is great for a quick dip, and the deck around it has
29–35 9th Avenue (at W. 13th St.) • 212 627 9800 chaise longues, umbrellas, tables, chairs, and a full
www.sohohouse.com bar with light snacks. The roof area is open year
Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to Soho House – round, with a heated marquee in winter.
a level of discretion you’d expect of a hotel that The 24 comfortable guest rooms are classified
doubles as a private members’ club. Staying at the according to size, and are labeled (in ascending
hotel gives you access to the club facilities, which order) playpen, playroom, playhouse, and playground.
include a fitness room, a private screening room, Mini-bars are stocked with all sorts of temptations,
a restaurant and bar, a drawing room and library, a including Ben & Jerry’s ice cream in the freezer, and
games room with pool table and pinball, and an chilled Martini glasses. The decor is an eclectic mix,
elegantly comfortable club room. The Cowshed Spa with touches of luxury such as freestanding, egg-shaped
offers a variety of healthy treatments and a soothing bathtubs. The rooms remain functional, however, with
environment. The “Cowshed” products are produced state-of-the-art gadgets such as surround-sound
by hand in the UK, home of the original, London Soho entertainment systems and wireless Internet access
House. The prime facility, however, is the rooftop throughout the whole building. Expensive

184 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown & Midtown
Maritime Hotel nautical swank 3 A1
363 West 16th Street (at 9th Ave.) • 212 242 4300
www.themaritimehotel.com

The rooms here have a maritime theme, complete


with porthole windows and an appealing blue-and-
white color scheme for the bedding. Rates are
reasonable, and the location is great for Chelsea and
the Meatpacking District. There’s 24-hour room
service, a roof terrace, and a sushi bar. Moderate

Chelsea Lodge fresh, clean & friendly 3 B1


318 West 20th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 800 373 1116
www.chelsealodge.com

Toilets are shared at this low-priced lodge, but each


of the 22 refurbished rooms has wooden floors and
high ceilings, and is well appointed, with a shower
stall, sink, TV, and double bed. You also have the
option to pay extra for a suite with more amenities.
The place is bright and on a quiet side street. Cheap

Chelsea Inn affordable charm 3 C1


46 West 17th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 800 640 6469
www.chelseainn.com

Ask for a quiet room at the back of this renovated


19th-century townhouse in a great downtown location.
The budget-priced rooms all have kitchenettes and
TVs, and the shared bathrooms are decorated with
charming, colorful painted murals. Continental
breakfast is included in the price. Cheap

W New York, Union Square stylish 3 D1


201 Park Avenue South (at E. 17th St.) • 212 253 9119
www.whotels.com

The signature style of the “W” hotel chain involves


subdued lighting and touches of purple in the
otherwise minimalist white decor. Rooms are sleek,
with comfy feather beds, and the service is
impeccable. The dramatic lobby has a soaring stair-
case and areas of sand, grass, and marble. Moderate

The price categories used are based on a hotel’s rack rate, but discount deals are frequently available 185
Hotels
Bryant Park Hotel high-tech & colorful 6 E2
40 West 40th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 877 640 9300
www.bryantparkhotel.com

The plush red of the lobby desks and rug is the first
thing you notice. Throughout the hotel, the simple
lines of Scandinavian-inspired furniture are juxtaposed
nicely with Tibetan rugs and cashmere throws. Rooms
have super sound systems as well as Internet access,
and the bathtubs are generously sized. Moderate

Royalton theatrical style 6 E2


44 West 44th Street (between 5th & 6th Aves) • 800 606 6090
www.royaltonhotel.com

In the heart of the Theater District, this Ian Schrager


hotel (see also Morgans, opposite) has a stunning
lobby that’s almost like a runway. Sit on the chairs at
the side and socialize, or slip into the Round Bar for
cocktails and people-watching. For the best views, try
to get a deal on a deluxe room or suite. Moderate

St. Regis Beaux Arts beauty 8 E5


2 East 55th Street (at 5th Ave.) • 800 625 5144
www.stregis.com

Built in 1904 by John Jacob Astor IV, this luxurious


hotel is meant to be a home away from home. The
rooms even have doorbells. Original details are mixed
with modern amenities, including flat-screen TVs in
the bathrooms and high-speed Internet access. The
hallways are wonderfully airy and bright. Expensive

The Peninsula discriminating modernity 8 E5


700 5th Avenue (at 55th St.) • 800 262 9467
www.peninsula.com

The 1905 landmark building and deluxe, spacious


rooms are as much a draw here as the ultra-modern
facilities, which include Internet connections and
“silent fax machines” in all the boldly colored rooms.
Remote controls in the bathrooms can be used to
operate speaker phones, TVs, or radios. Expensive

186 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown
Morgans understated sophistication 6 E3
237 Madison Avenue (at E. 37th St.) • 800 606 6090
www.ianschragerhotels.com

The concept of the “boutique hotel” originated at


Morgans. Defined not by size (as with the grand
hotels of the past) but by a unique sense of style and
coolness, the hotel was an instant hit with fashion-
conscious travelers. Morgans, designed in the late
1980s, recreates the ambience of an apartment house.
The lobby is functional, with a small side office for
the helpful and knowledgeable concierge. Decorative
themes include the black-and-white checkerboard
motif, reminiscent of old New York cabs, seen subtly
in the elevator, in the pattern of the hallway carpets,
and in the sleek stainless steel and glass bathrooms
(which are also adorned with fresh flowers).
Renowned designer Andrée Putman planned the
interiors, mixing materials such as raw silk, corduroy,
maplewood, and formica. All rooms have gray, white,
and beige color schemes, and feature banquettes
and original Robert Mapplethorpe photographs –
which have had to be bolted to the wall. Communal
spaces include the “living room,” with free computer
access, and a welcoming area conducive to playing
scrabble, reading, or writing.
The famed restaurant Asia de Cuba is where break-
fast is served (included in the price), and Morgans Bar
has a lively night scene and superb cocktails. Owner
Ian Schrager has replicated his hotel philosophy with
other New York establishments, including the Hudson
(below) and the Royalton (opposite). Expensive

Hudson cosmopolitan, affordable & urbane 7 C4


356 West 58th Street (between 8th & 9th Aves) • 800 606 6090
www.hudsonhotel.com

One thousand rooms are priced at various scales so


that the surfer dude can mix with the film producer in
the swanky Hudson Bar. Note that the rooms tend to
be very small – the concept at this Ian Schrager hotel
is that you’ll spend most of your time in the beautiful
and funky communal spaces. Moderate

187
Hotels
Four Seasons contemporary panache 8 E5
57 East 57th Street (between Park & Madison Aves)
• 212 758 5700
www.fourseasons.com

There’s nothing understated about the Four Seasons


– just look at the immense lobby with its cathedral-
like ceiling, marble floors, and floral arrangements as
large as refrigerators. The hotel was built with the
savvy customer in mind; even the most modest
rooms have generous dimensions – 500 sq ft (47 sq
m) rivals the floorspace of many New York studio
apartments. Rooms on the top floors offer great city
views, including the sweep of Central Park. The
windows open to let in fresh air, and curtains can be
opened from the bed with a switch. All bathrooms have
Bulgari products, a glass-enclosed shower, and a
deep, fast-filling tub. Other gadgets include a flat
screen TV in the bathroom, and a top-quality CD
player/radio. The on-site spa and fitness center offers
a “sensory escape,” perfect for jetlag. Expensive

1871 House country-style feel 8 F4


130 East 62nd Street (between Park & Lexington Aves)
• 212 756 8823
www.1871house.com

This beautifully renovated brownstone building is close


to Central Park and an upscale shopping zone, but
the quiet, leafy street makes you forget you’re in the
heart of the city. There’s no common area for guests,
but the spacious, high-ceilinged rooms, suites, and
studios are ideal for lounging, and most have working
fireplaces – quite a treat for a New York property. The
keepers even provide duraflame logs to burn.
So long as you don’t require 24-hour room service,
these cozy, relaxing accommodations are a good option.
The whole place is furnished with antiques and the
decor is warm and homey. If you are traveling in a
group of four or more, reserve the Great Room and
Cottage combination; both have access to a lovely
garden. Some rooms have kitchenettes. A four-night
minimum is usually expected. Moderate

188 Browse hotel websites at www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown & Upper East Side
The Lowell intimate retreat 8 F4
28 East 63rd Street (between Madison & Park Aves)
• 212 838 1400
www.lowellhotel.com

With 21 rooms and 47 suites, The Lowell focuses more


on comfort than numbers. High-profile guests stay here
to escape the paparazzi. The suites offer options such
as wood-burning fireplaces, terraces, and kitchenettes.
There’s an airy fitness room, too. Expensive

Melrose highly accommodating hotel 8 F4


140 East 63rd Street (at Lexington Ave.) • 212 838 5700
www.melrosehotelnewyork.com

Formerly the Barbizon Hotel, the Melrose has been


renovated to accommodate every need of luxury-
loving travelers, whether it’s plush bedding, Internet
access, modern gadgetry, or a well-equipped gym. It’s
also well situated, only three blocks from Central Park
and up the street from Bloomingdales. Moderate

The Pierre New York landmark 8 E4


5th Avenue (at 61st St.) • 212 838 8000
www.fourseasons.com

A top hotel since 1930, The Pierre is a bastion of old-


fashioned gentility, and is the perfect place to return to
after a shopping spree at neighboring Bergdorf’s.
Attentive staff perform to a backdrop of chandeliers and
Art Deco details. The Rotunda (see p174) is on hand for
afternoon tea; Café Pierre offers full meals. Expensive

The Mark Upper East Side elegance 8 E1


25 East 77th Street (between Madison & 5th Aves)
• 212 744 4300
www.themarkhotel.com

An air of sophistication permeates the generously


sized rooms of this hotel, part of the Mandarin group.
Inspiration for the Neo-Classical interior is said to have
come from the work of 19th-century English architect
Sir John Soane. Service is professional. Expensive

189
Hotels
Hotel Wales classic & fresh 10 E4
1295 Madison Avenue (at 92nd St.) • 866 925 3746
www.waleshotel.com

This Upper East Side boutique hotel has an intimate


feel. Aveda products and fresh flowers feature in the
comfortable rooms, and free coffee is available day
and night. The roof deck is a great place from which to
watch the buzzing city, and adjacent Sarabeth’s Kitchen
whips up fantastic omelets and soups. Moderate

Harlem Flophouse jazz-related fun 11 D4


242 West 123rd Street (between 7th & 8th Aves) • 212 662 0678
www.harlemflophouse.com

A small brass plaque is the only thing that sets the


Flophouse apart from the other residences on this
quiet, tree-lined brownstone block. The first thing you’ll
notice upon entering is the sound of jazz, drifting
softly from the mantelpiece radio in the charming front
room. It has been a B&B since 2000, and the owner
has worked on various parts of the house to restore
original details, including patterned tin ceilings, wooden
moldings, and a downstairs dining room for parties.
A touch of faded glory and fresh renovation add to
the appeal and charm of the four guest rooms. Each
has a sink, but bathrooms are shared – a claw-foot
tub in one is nicely set right under a sky light. All
beds are firm, with good mattresses, and the rooms
are named after notable people with either jazz or
Harlem connections – often both. There are no TVs,
but alarm clocks are provided. There’s a smoking
room in the basement and guests have access to the
garden, for summer barbecues, relaxation, and reflec-
tion. Hearty and delicious breakfasts of eggs, grits,
sausage, and yogurt are available at an extra charge.
The Flop House is conveniently located for subway
trains and buses (the M60 can bring you right here
from LaGuardia airport), and is close to the Apollo
Theater (see p128), Lenox Lounge (see p129), and the
Harlem Studio Museum (see p107). The Flophouse
also hosts occasional art exhibitions in the common
area on the main floor. Cheap

190 www.enewyork.dk.com
Upper East Side to Brooklyn
Akwaaba Mansion African tranquillity
347 MacDonough Street q Last car of A train to Utica Ave, then
walk four blocks along Stuyvesant Ave • 718 455 5958
www.akwaaba.com

This Italianate villa is tucked away on a tree-lined street


in the historic Stuyvesant Heights area. African motifs
and antiques create a unique style. Some rooms include
a Jacuzzi. Spend a lazy afternoon in the secluded
garden, or sipping lemonade on the sun porch. Cheap

Union St B&B bohemian charm 13 B4


405 Union Street (at Hoyt St.), Brooklyn
718 852 8406

Floral wallpaper, wooden floors, and music boxes in


each of the six rooms create a charming, warm, and
homey atmosphere. The continental-style breakfast
includes good strong coffee. The owners provide a
well-stocked bookshelf of books on the local history
for your perusal. Cheap

Bed & Breakfast 13 C5


on the Park Victorian time machine
113 Prospect Park West (between 6th & 7th Sts) • 718 499 6115
www.bbnyc.com

The fixtures here have been lovingly restored to


maintain an ambience of Victorian gentility. Reserve
the Lady Liberty Room for a four-poster bed, great city
views, and exclusive access to the roof garden.
Breakfast includes home-made pastries. Moderate

Accommodations Agencies rates. Accommodations agencies with websites to


Hotel rates can be rather mysterious: the officially try include: www.simply-newyork.com, www.a1-
quoted “rack rate” may say one thing, but certain discount-hotels.com, and www.hotels.com.
packages, the time of year, and discounts found on Also, if you’re interested in longer stays – a
the web can give a completely different price. If you duration of seven days or more – and are thinking
get the timing right, you can slice a lot of money off about subletting an apartment, try www.sublet
your room price. At weekends in off-peak seasons, inthecity.com, www.citysublets.com, and
for example, hotels often offer rooms at discounted www.newyorkhabitat.com.

Thanksgiving and Christmas are busy periods – you’ll need to make early reservations at these times 191
New York Street Finder
Almost every listing in this guide includes a
(boxed) page and grid reference to the maps in 11 12
this section. The few entries that fall outside the
area covered by these maps give transport HARLEM
details instead. Maps 1 to 12 cover the whole of 125TH STREET

Manhattan, while Brooklyn is shown on Map 13.


COLUMBIA
An index of the street names follows on UNIVERSITY
pp207–209. 110TH STREET
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N

PIERREPO Metro Tech Fulton St Clinton Av– T


ST Washington Av R EE BROWER
Whitehall St GUE NUE ST
M ONTA FULTON ST FU L T O N ST
AVE PARK
Borough Hall Nedvins St
B RO O

Lafayette Av UE
South Ferry Hoyt St- TI C N

B ED
MO
N ST Fulton Mall Brooklyn Williamsburg Savings Bank AT LA N D EA
N
A VE
JO R
A LE Academy of Music
A

FO R
KLY

Flatbush North E
V

AC
EN

Hoyt St– K S
PL
CL I N T O

A TLA N TI C A VE Atlantic Av MAR


D
U

Schermer St FL ST
N

Pacific St A TB E
Upper Q
CROWN AC
AVE

U US K PL
D EA N ST REET H Bergen St PA R
N ST RE ET

BR Y
HEIGHTS
E

Bay Bergen St WA
NUE

O Park Pl
EN

O AV K
AR
4TH
3RD

5TH

KL W Y CK O FF ST REET EN
YN NS P
S EX

U
-B E 7th Av JO H
SM I T H ST REET

AT ST
TE
BOERUM Eastern Parkway
CO L U

RY Franklin Av
A VENUE

A VENUE
A VENUE
PRE

TU Grand Army Brooklyn Museum N


T ER
N NE
L COBBLE HILL HILL Plaza EA S Botanic Gardens
M BI A

SSW A Y

PLA CE
LINCOLN GRAND ARM Y Brooklyn Museum of Art
PLAZA BROOKLYN
W

UNION ST REET BOTANICAL


H EN RY

CO U RT
ST RE ET

Pacific St
AS

UNION ST REET
GARDENS RD
HI

VA
NG

Carroll St FL LE
TO

PARK A U
A VEN UE

TB BO
ST RE ET

ST RE ET

U
A VENU E

A VEN UE

Go ver n o r s SH
AV

CARROLL SLOPE 1ST STREET


PI
RE
EN

Isl an d
W EST

A EM
U

VE
GARDENS
E
A VENU E

3RD STREET
BYRNE
Prospect PROSPECT
8TH

M EM ORIAL
Park
3RD

PARK
4TH

5TH STREET
HEIGHTS
PA RK

PA

Smith St– 7TH


PRO SPECT
6TH

FL

G STREET
RK

O 9th St
A

W
SI

9TH STREET 4th Av


TB
PRO SPEC T

PA RK
D

RED HOOK A 7th Av


E

N
U

U
SH

Park Slope
A VEN UE

PARK S
AV

AV

EX 11TH STREET
EN

EN
A VENU E

PR
U

RED HOOK ES
E

SW 13TH STREET
Parkside
5TH

A
Y Av
15TH
E

STREET
Prospect Av
U
7TH

15th St
EN

PR O SP Prospect Park
AV

E CT
EX PR
E

ES
D

SW
SI

WINDSOR TERRACE
RK

AY
PA
Street Finder Index
1st–15th Streets (Brooklyn) 13 C5 Broadway continued Convent Hill 11 B3 Eighth Avenue
3rd Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 B5 1280–1659 5 D4–D1 Cooper Square 4 E3 1–209 3 B2–B1
4th Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C4 1660–2279 7 D5–B1 Cornelia Street 3 C3 210–849 5 C5–C1
5th Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C5 2280–2874 9 B5–B1 Cortlandt Alley 1 D1 850–992 7 C5–C4
6th Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C5 2875–3480 11 B5–B1 Cortlandt Street 1 D1 Eldridge Street 4 F5
7th Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C5 Broadway Alley 6 F5 Court Street (Brooklyn) 13 B4 Eleventh Avenue
8th Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C5 Broadway Avenue 6 F5 Cranberry Street (Brooklyn) 2 G4 1–729 5 A5–A1
Brooklyn Bridge 2 F3 Crosby Street 3 D5 730–854 7 B5–B4
A Brooklyn Heights Promenade 2 G4 Elizabeth Street 4 E4
Abingdon Square 3 B2 Brooklyn Queens Expressway 2 G3 D Elk Street 1 D2
Abraham E. Kazan Street 4 H5 Broome Street 4 E5 Dante Park 7 C4 Empire Boulevard 13 D 5
Adam Clayton Powell Bruckner Boulevard (Bronx) 12 G2 Dean Street (Brooklyn) 13 D4 Ericsson Place 1 C1
Jr. Boulevard 11 D1 Bushwick Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C2 Dekalb Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 Essex Street 4 F4
Adams Street (Brooklyn) 2 H3 Delancey Street 4 F5 Exchange Alley 1 D4
African Square 12 E3 C Delancey Street South 4 H4 Exchange Place 1 D4
Albany Street 1 C4 Cadman Plaza West Desbrosses Street 3 B5 Extra Place 4 E4
Alexander Avenue (Bronx) 12 G1 (Brooklyn) 2 H4 Dey Street 1 D3
Allen Street 4 F4 Calvin Avenue 5 B3 Division Avenue 13 B2 F
Amsterdam Avenue Canal Place (Bronx) 12 G1 Division Street 2 F1 Father Demo Square 3 C3
1–459 7 B4–B1 Canal Street 2 E1 Dock Street (Brooklyn) 2 G3 Father Fagan Square 3 C4
460–1059 9 B5–B1 Cannon Street 4 H4 Dominick Street 3 C5 Fifth Avenue
1060–1660 11 B5–B1 Cardinal Street 2 E2 Doris C. Freedman Plaza 8 E4 1–144 3 D3–D1
Andrew’s Plaza 2 E2 Carlisle Street 1 C4 Doughty Street (Brooklyn) 2 G3 145–644 6 E5–E1
Ann Street 1 D3 Carlton Street (Brooklyn) 13 C3 Dover Street 2 E2 645–1008 8 E5–E1
Asserlevy Place 6 H5 Carmine Street 3 C4 Downing Street 3 C4 1009–1339 10 E5–E1
Astor Place 4 E3 Cathedral Parkway 9 B1 Driggs Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C2 1340–2360 12 E5–E1
Atlantic Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C4 Catherine Lane 1 D1 Duane Park 1 C2 Fifth Avenue (Museum Mile) 10 E1
Attorney Street 4 G4 Catherine Slip 2 F2 Duane Street 1 D2 Finn Square 1 C1
Avenue A 4 F2 Catherine Street 2 F2 Duffy Square 5 D1 First Avenue
Avenue B 4 G2 Cedar Street 1 C3 Dutch Street 1 D3 1–349 4 F4–F1
Avenue C 4 G1 Central Avenue 9 D1 Dyer Street 5 D3 350–929 6 G5–G1
Avenue D 4H2 Central Park West 930–1574 8 G5–G1
Avenue of the Americas 5 D4 1–211 7 C4–C1 E 1575–2179 10 G5–G1
Avenue of The Finest 2 E2 212–500 9 C5–C1 East 1st Street 4 F4 2180–2116 12 G5–G3
Centre Market Place 4 E5 East 2nd–8th Street 4 F3 First Place 1 C4
B Centre Street 2 E2 East 9th–14th Street 4 F2 Flatbush Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C4
Bank Street 3 A3 Chambers Street 1 C2 East 15th–20th Street 4 F1 Fletcher Street 2 E3
Barclay Street 1 C2 Charles Lane 3 A3 East 21st–26th Street 6 F5 Flushing Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D2
Barrow Street 3 B4 Charles Street 3 A3 East 27th–33rd Street 6 F4 Foot Bridge 10 H2
Baruch Place 4 H4 Charlton Street 3 B4 East 34th–39th Street 6 G3 Forsyth Street 4 F4
Battery Place 1 D5 Cherokee Place 8 H1 East 40th–45th Street 6 G2 Fourth Avenue 4 E3
Baxter Street 2 E1 Cherry Street 2 F2 East 46th–51st Street 6 F1 Frankfort Street 2 E2
Bayard Street 2 E1 Christopher Park 3 C3 East 52nd–57th Street 8 F5 Franklin D. Roosevelt Drive 6 H3
Beach Street 1 C1 Christopher Street 3 A4 East 58th–63rd Street 8 F4 Franklin Place 1 D1
Beaver Street 1 D4 Chrystie Street 4 F5 East 64th–69th Street 8 F3 Franklin Street 1 D1
Bedford Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3 Church Street 1 D3 East 70th–75th Street 8 F2 Franklin Street (Brooklyn) 13 B1
Bedford Street 3 B3 Claremont Avenue 11 A3 East 76th–81st Street 8 F1 Frawley Circle 10 E1
Beekman Place 6 H1 Clark Street (Brooklyn) 2 G4 East 82nd–87th Street 10 F5 Frederick Douglass Blvd. 11 C1
Beekman Street 2 E3 Clarkson Street 3 B4 East 88th–94th Street 10 F4 Frederick Douglass Circle 9 C1
Benson Street 1 D1 Cleveland Place 4 E5 East 95th–100th Street 10 F3 Freedom Place 7 A3
Bethune Street 3 A3 Cliff Street 2 E3 East 101st–106th Street 10 G2 Freeman Alley 4 E4
Bialystoker Place 4 H5 Clinton Street 2 G1 East 107th–112th Street 10 F1 Front Street 2 E4
Bleecker Street 3 C3 Clinton Street (Brooklyn) 2 H5 East 113th–118th Street 12 G5 Front Street (Brooklyn) 2 H3
Bond Alley 3 D3 Coenties Alley 2 E4 East 119th–124th Street 12 F4 Fulton Street 1 D3
Bowery 4 E4 Collister Street 1 C1 East 125th–130th Street 12 F3 Fulton Street (Brooklyn) 13 C4
Bridge 3rd Avenue 12 F2 Columbia Heights (Brooklyn) 2 G4 East 134th–136th Street 12 H2 Furman Street (Brooklyn) 2 G3
Bridge Street 1 D5 Columbia Street 4 H4 East 137th–142nd Street 12 H1
Bridge Street (Brooklyn) 2 H2 Columbia Street (Brooklyn) 13 A4 East Broadway 2 F1 G
Bridge Willis Avenue 12 G3 Columbus Avenue East Drive 8 E3 Gansevoort Street 3 A2
Broad Street 1 D4 1–459 7 C3–C1 East End Avenue 10 H5 Gates Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3
Broadway 460–1100 9 C5–C1 East Houston Street 4 F4 Gay Street 3C3
1–419 1 D4–D1 Columbus Circle 7 C4 East River Drive 10 H2 Gold Street 2 E3
420–914 3 D5–D1 Commerce Street 3 B3 Eastern Parkway 13 D4 Gouverneur Slip East 2 H1
915–1279 6 E5–E4 Convent Avenue 11 B1 Edgar Allan Poe Street 9 A5 Gouverneur Slip West 2 H1

207
Street Finder Index
G continued K Morris Avenue (the Bronx) 12 G1 Pitt Street 4 G4
Gouverneur Street 4 H5 Kenmare Street 4 E5 Morris Street 1 C4 Platt Street 2 E3
Gowanus Expressway 3 B5 Kent Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 B2 Mosco Street 2 E1 Pleasant Avenue 12 H4
Grace Court (Brooklyn) 2 H5 King Street 3 B4 Mott Street 2 E1 Plymouth Street (Brooklyn) 2 H2
Gracie Square 10 H5 Mount Morris Park West 12 E4 Pomander Walk 9 B3
Gracie Terrace 10 H5 L Mulberry Street 2 E1 Prince Street 4 E4
Gramercy Park East 4 E1 La Guardia Place 3 D4 Mulry Square 3 B2 Prospect Expressway 13 C5
Gramercy Park West 3 D1 La Salle Street 11 B3 Murray Street 1 C2 Prospect Park West 13 C5
Grand Army Plaza (Brooklyn) 13 C4 Lafayette Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 Myrtle Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D2 Putnam Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3
Grand Street 4 E5 Lafayette Street 4 E3
Grand Street (Brooklyn) 13 D1 Laight Street 1 B1 N Q
Great Jones Street 4 E3 Langstons Hughes Place 12 E3 N. D. Perlman Place 4 F1 Queens–Midtown Tunnel 6 H2
Greeley Square 5 D4 Legion Square 2 E3 Nassau Street 1 D3 Queensboro Bridge 8 H4
Greene Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3 Leonard Street 1 C1 Navy Street (Brooklyn) 13 B3
Greene Street 3 D5 Leroy Street 3 B4 New Street 1 D4 R
Greenpoint Avenue 13 B1 Lewis Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 Ninth Avenue R. F. Wagner Sr. Place 2 E2
Greenwich Avenue 3 B2 Lewis Street 4 H4 1–174 3 A1 Reade Street 1 D2
Greenwich Street 1 C2 Lexington Avenue 175–769 5 C5–C1 Rector Place 1 C4
Grove Place 3 B3 1–579 6 F5–F1 770–907 7 C5–C4 Rector Street 1 D4
Grove Street 3 B3 580–1204 8 F5–F1 Norfolk Street 4 F4 Reinhold Niebuhr Place 11 A4
Gustave Hartman Square 4 G3 1205–1609 10 F5–F1 North 4th–8th Street 13 B2 Remsen Street (Brooklyn) 2 H5
1610–2120 12 F5–F2 North 9th–15th Street 13 B1 Renwick Street 3 B5
H Liberty Place 1 D3 North End Avenue 1 B3 Rider Avenue (the Bronx) 12 G1
Hamilton Place 11 B1 Liberty Street 1 D3 North Moore Street 1 C1 Ridge Street 4 G4
Hammerskjold Plaza 6 G1 Lincoln Place (Brooklyn) 13 C4 Nostrand Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 River Terrace 1 B2
Hancock Place 11 C3 Lincoln Square 7 C3 Riverside Drive 9 A1
Hancock Square 11 C4 Lincoln Tunnel 5 A3 O Riverside Drive East 11 A3
Hanover Square 2 E4 Lispenard Street 1 D1 Old Broadway 11 B3 Riverside Drive West 11 A3
Hanover Street 2 E4 Little West 12th Street 3 A2 Old Fulton Street (Brooklyn) 2 G3 Rivington Street 4 F4
Harlem River Drive 12 F2 Ludlow Street 4 F4 Old Slip 2 E4 Rockefeller Plaza 6 E1
Harrison Street 1 C1 Luis Muñoz Marin Boulevard 10 G5 Oliver Street 2 E1 Ronald E. McNair Place 12 F4
Harry Howard Square 2 E1 Orange Street (Brooklyn) 2 G4 Roosevelt Square 11 C3
Henry Hudson Parkway 7 A1 M Orchard Street 4 F4 Rose Street 2 E2
Henry Street 4 H5 Macdougal Alley 3 C3 Rutgers Street 2 G1
Henry Street (Brooklyn) 2 H4 Macdougal Street 3 C4 P Rutherford Place 4 E1
Herald Square 5 D3 Madison Avenue 12 E1 Paladino Avenue 12 H4 Ryders Alley 2 E3
Hester Street 4 F5 Madison Avenue Bridge 12 F1 Park Avenue
Hicks Street (Brooklyn) 2 H4 Madison Square Plaza 6 E5 1–339 6 F3–F1 S
Hogan Place 2 E1 Madison Street 2 E2 340–954 8 F5–F1 St. Clair Place 11 A3
Holland Tunnel 3 A5 Maiden Lane 1 D3 955–1559 10 F5–F1 St. James Place 2 E2
Horatio Street 3 A2 Major Deegan Expressway 12 F1 1560–2300 12 F5–F2 St. John’s Place (Brooklyn) 13 D4
Howard Street 3 D5 Mangin Street 4 H4 Park Avenue (the Bronx) 12 F1 St. Luke’s Place 3 B4
Hubert Street 1 B1 Manhattan Avenue 9 C1 Park Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3 St. Mark’s Avenue 13 D4
Hudson Street 1 C1 Manhattan Avenue 13 B1 Park Avenue South 3 D1 St. Mark’s Place 4 F3
Humboldt Street (Brooklyn) 13 C2 Manhattan Bridge 2 G2 Park Place 1 C2 St. Nicholas Avenue 11 C1
Marcy Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 Park Place (Brooklyn) 13 D4 St. Nicholas Terrace 11 C1
I Market Slip 2 F2 Park Row 1 E2 St. Peter’s Street 1 D2
Independence Plaza 1 C1 Market Street 2 F1 Park Street 2 E2 Samuel A. Spiegel Square 4 H5
Irving Place 4 E1 Marketfield Street 1 D4 Parkside Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D5 Samuel Dickstein Plaza 4 G5
Martin Luther King Patchin Place 3 C2 Samuel Street 4 E1
J Jr. Boulevard 11 B3 Pearl Street 2 E3 Sands Street (Brooklyn) 2 H3
J. P. Ward Street 1 C4 McCarthy Square 3 B2 Pearl Street (Brooklyn) 2 H2 Second Avenue
Jackson Street 4 H5 McGuinness Boulevard 13 B1 Peck Slip 2 E3 1–354 4 E4–E1
James Street 2 E2 Mercer Street 3 D4 Pell Street 2 E1 355–969 6 G5–G1
Jane Street 3 A2 Metropolitan Avenue 13 D1 Peretz Square 4 F4 970–1579 8 G5–G1
Jay Street 1 C1 Middagh Street (Brooklyn) 2 G4 Perry Street 3 A3 1580–2189 10 G5–G1
Jay Street (Brooklyn) 2 H2 Milligan Place 3 C2 Pershing Square 6 F2 2190–2485 12 G5–G3
Jefferson Street 2 G1 Minetta Lane 3 C3 Peter Cooper Road 6 H5 Second Place 1 C4
Jersey Street 4 E4 Minetta Street 3 C3 Peter Minuit Plaza 1 D5 Seventh Avenue
John Street 1 D3 Montague Street (Brooklyn) 2 H5 Phillip Randolph Square 11 D5 1–164 3 B2–B1
John Street (Brooklyn) 2 H2 Montgomery Street 2 H1 Pierrepont Street (Brooklyn) 2 H5 165–784 5 D5–D1
Jones Alley 3 D4 Moore Street 1 D5 Pike Street 2 F1 785–921 7 D5–D4
Jones Street 3 C3 Morningside Avenue 11 C4 Pine Street 1 D4 Seventh Avenue South 3 B2
Joralemon Street (Brooklyn) 2 H5 Morningside Drive 11 B4 Pineapple Street (Brooklyn) 2 H4 Sheridan Square 3 B3

208
Street Finder Index
Sheriff Street 4 H4 Thames Street 1 D4 Village Square 3 C2 West 83rd–88th Street 9 C5
Sherman Square 7 C2 Theatre Alley 1 D3 Vine Street (Brooklyn) 2 G3 West 89th–94th Street 9 C4
Shinbone Alley 3 D3 Third Avenue West 95th–100th Street 9 B3
Shubert Alley 5 D3 1–254 4 E4–E1 W West 101st–106th Street 9 B2
Sixth Avenue 255–844 6 F5–F1 W. C. Handy’s Place 7 D5 West 107th–112th Street 9 B1
1–59 1 D1 845–1444 8 F5–F1 Walker Street 1 D1 West 113th–116th Street 11 D5
60–669 3 C5–C1 1445–2049 10 F5–F1 Wall Street 1 D4 West 119th–124th Street 11 D4
670–1289 5 C5–C1 2050–2340 12 F5–F3 Walton Avenue (the Bronx) 12 F1 West 125th–130th Street 11 D3
1290–1419 7 D5–D4 Third Avenue (the Bronx) 12 G2 Wanamaker Place 4 E2 West 131st–136th Street 11 D2
Smith Street (Brooklyn) 13 B4 Third Place 1 C4 Warren Street 1 C2 West 137th–142nd Street 11 D1
Sniffen Court 6 F3 Thompson Street 3 C4 Washington Alley 4 E2 West Broadway 1 C2
South Bowery 3 A3 Throop Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 Washington Avenue 13 C4 West Central Park 9 C1
South Central Park 7 D4 Tiemann Place 11 A3 Washington Mews 3 D3 West Drive 9 D3
South End Avenue 1 C4 Tillary Street (Brooklyn) 13 B3 Washington Place 3 D3 West End Avenue
South Ferry Plaza 1 D5 Times Square 5 D2 Washington Square 3 C3 1–459 7 B4–B1
South Street 2 E3 Tompkins Avenue 13 D3 Washington Square North 3 C3 460–960 9 B5–B2
South Street Viaduct 2 F2 Transverse Road 9 D3 Washington Square South 3 C3 West Houston Street 3 C4
South Sutton Place 8 H5 Triborough Bridge 12 H3 Washington Street 1 C3 West MacDougal Street 3 C3
South William Street 1 D4 Trimble Place 1 D2 Washington Street (Brooklyn) 2 H4 West Street 1 B1
South 2nd - 6th Street 13 B2 Trinity Place 1 D4 Water Street 4 H5 West Thames Street 1 C4
Spring Street 3 B5 Tudor City Place 6 G2 Water Street (Brooklyn) 2 H3 West Washington Square 3 A3
Spruce Street 2 E2 Tunnel Entrance Street 6 G3 Watts Street 3 C5 West Washington Place 3 C3
Stable Court 4 E3 Twelfth Avenue Waverly Lane 3 C5 Westside Highway
Stanton Street 4 F4 1–704 5 A5–A1 Waverly Place 3 D3 (West Street) 1 C3
Staple Street 1 C1 705–900 7 A5 Waverly Street 3 D3 White Street 1 D1
Stone Street 1 D4 West 3rd Street 3 D3 Whitehall Street 1 D4
Straus Park 9 A2 U West 4th Street 3 C3 Willett Street 4 H5
Stuyvesant Alley 4 E2 Union Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C2 West 8th Street 3 C3 William Street 1 D3
Stuyvesant Avenue 13 D2 Union Square East 3 D1 West 9th–14th Street 3 C2 Williamsburg Bridge 13 B2
Stuyvesant Street 4 E2 Union Square West 3 D1 West 15th–20th Street 3 B1 Willis Avenue (the Bronx) 12 H1
Suffolk Street 4 G4 Union Street (Brooklyn) 13 C4 West 21st–26th Street 5 D5 Willoughby Avenue 13 C3
Sullivan Street 3 C4 University Place 3 D2 West 27th–33rd Street 5 D4 Willow Street (Brooklyn) 2 G4
Sumner Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 D3 West 34th–39th Street 5 D3 Wooster Street 3 D5
Sutton Place 8 H4 West 40th–45th Street 5 D2 Worth Square 6 E5
Swing Street 8 E5 V West 46th–51st Street 5 D1 Worth Street 2 E1
Szold Place 4 G2 Vandam Street 3 D5 West 52nd–57th Street 7 B5 Wyckoff Street (Brooklyn) 13 B4
Vanderbilt Avenue 6 F2 West 58th–61st Street 7 B4
T Vanderbilt Avenue (Brooklyn) 13 C3 West 62nd–63rd Street 7 C4 Y
Taras Shevchenko Place 4 E3 Vandervoort Avenue 13 C1 West 64th–66th Street 7 B3 York Avenue 8 H1
Tenth Avenue Varick Street 1 C1 West 67th–69th Street 7 C3 York Street (Brooklyn) 13 B3
1–184 3 A1 Verdi Square 7 B2 West 70th–75th Street 7 B2
185–759 5 B5–B1 Vesey Street 1 C3 West 76th–82nd Street 7 B1
760–889 7 B5–B4 Vestry Street 1 B1

209
Index by Area
Mud Spot (p31)
Downtown $
307 East 9th Street (Map 4 E2)
Lower Manhattan Tribeca
www.themudtruck.com Amish Fine Food Market (p160) 66 (p24) $$$
Restaurants Café 17 Battery Place (Map 1 D5) 241 Church Street (Map 1 D1)
Downtown/Lower Manhattan Chinese
Chinatown Paul’s Palace (p31) $
131 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E3) Cosi Downtown (p160) $ Acappella (p24) $$$
Golden Unicorn (p25) $ American 55 Broad Street (Map 1 D4) 1 Hudson Street (Map 1 C2)
18 East Broadway (Map 2 F1) Deli/Sandwich Shop Italian
Chinese Pommes Frites (p36) $
123 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E3) Pret a Manger (p160) $ Chanterelle (p38) $$$
Peking Duck House (p25) $$ Belgian 60 Broad Street (Map 1 D4) 2 Harrison Street (Map 1 C1)
28 Mott Street (Map 2 E1) Deli/Sandwich Shop www.chanterellenyc.com
Chinese Pylos (p30) $$ French
128 East 7th Street (Map 4 F3) Meatpacking District
HSF (p160) $$ Greek Montrachet (p24) $$$
46 Bowery (Map 2 E1) Bonsignour (p72) $ 239 West Broadway (Map 1 D1)
Chinese Rue B (p162) $ 35 Jane Street (Map 3 B2) European
188 Avenue B (Map 4 G2) Bakery
Chinatown Ice Cream $ Café Nobu (p38) $$$
Factory (p160) Florent (pp38 & 161) $$ 105 Hudson Street (Map 1 C1)
65 Bayard Street (Map 2 E1) Sobaya (p32) $/$$ 69 Gansevoort Street (Map 3 A2) 212 219 0500, www.myriad
Ice Cream Parlor 229 East 9th Street (Map 4 E2) American/European restaurantgroup.com
Japanese Japanese
Great NY Noodle Town (p160) $ Pastis (p161)
281/2 Bowery at Bayard Street Le Souk (p29) $$ 9 Ninth Avenue (Map 3 A2) West Village
(Map 2 E1) 47 Avenue B (Map 4 G3) French
Chinese North African Babbo (p34) $$$
Nolita 110 Waverly Place
East Village Le Tableau (p29) $$ (Map 3 C3)
511 East 5th Street (Map 4 F3) Cafe Gitane (p27) $ Northern Italian
2nd Avenue Deli (p33) $$ French 242 Mott Street (Map 4 E4)
156 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E2) North African BB Sandwich Bar (p36) $
Deli Yaffa Cafe (p30) $ 120 West 3rd Street (Map 3 C3)
97 St. Mark’s Place (Map 4 F3) Cafe Habana (p27) $ Deli
Angelica Kitchen (p32) $ Middle Eastern 17 Prince Street (Map 4 E4)
300 East 12th St.(Map 4 E2) Cuban/Mexican Blue Ribbon $$
Vegetarian Lower East Side Bakery (p33)
Housing Works $ 33 Downing Street (Map 3 C4)
Bao (p29) $ Alias (p28) $$ Used Book Café (p15) European
111 Avenue C (Map 4 G3) 76 Clinton Street (Map 4 G4) 126 Crosby Street (Map 3 D4)
Vietnamese American Café Cones (p36) $
272 Bleecker Street (Map 3 C3)
Crif Dogs (p36) $ Bereket (p27) $ SoHo Ice Cream Parlor
113 St. Mark’s Place (Map 4 F3) 187 East Houston St.
American (Map 4 F4) Balthazar (p25) $$ Deborah (p13) $$
Turkish 80 Spring Street (Map 3 D5) 43 Carmine Street (Map 3 C4)
Daily Chow (p30) $ French Brunch
2 East 2nd Street (Map 4 E3)
Asian Cube 63 (p28) $$ Blue Ribbon Sushi (p33) $$ Jane (p26) $$
63 Clinton Street (Map 4 G4) 119 Sullivan Street (Map 3 C4) 100 West Houston Street
DT–UT (p162) $ Japanese Japanese (Map 3 D4)
41 Avenue B (Map 4 G2) American
Café Fried Dumpling (p36) $ Dean & DeLuca (pp13, 65) $
99 Allen Street (Map 4 F4) 560 Broadway (Map 3 D4) Joe (p31) $
The Elephant (p27) $$ Chinese Bakery/Deli 141 Waverly Place
58 East 1st Street (Map 4 F4) 212 924 6750 (Map 3 C3)
French/Thai ’inoteca (p28) $$ L’Ecole (p26) $ Café
98 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4) 462 Broadway (Map 3 D5)
Mermaid Inn (p31) $$ Italian French John’s of
96 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E3) Bleecker Street (p35) $
Seafood WD-50 (p28) $$$ Mercer Kitchen (p25) $$ 278 Bleecker Street (Map 3 C3)
50 Clinton Street (Map 4 G4) 99 Prince Street (Map 3 D5) Pizzeria
American French/American

210 Click through to restaurant websites across New York with www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown
Magnolia Bakery (p71) $ Shopping Lower Manhattan Clio (p63)
401 Bleeker Street (Map 3 B3) 92 Thompson Street
Downtown/West Village East Village Century 21 (p60) (Map 3 C4)
22 Cortlandt Street (Map 1 D3) Interiors
Mamoun’s (p36) $ Kiehl’s (p77) Fashion
119 MacDougal St. (Map 3 C3) 109 3rd Avenue (Map 4 E2) Le Corset by Selima (p62)
Middle Eastern Health & Beauty Green Market (p160) 80 Thompson Street
Farmer’s market at Bowling (Map 3 C5)
Mary’s Fish Camp (p37) $$ St. Mark’s Sounds (p78) Green Park (Map 1 D4) Lingerie
64 Charles Street (Map 3 B3) 16 St. Mark’s Place Food Market
Seafood (Map 4 E3) Costume National (p63)
Music Amish Market 108 Wooster Street
Mud Truck (p31) $ Downtown (p160) (Map 3 D4)
14th Street and Broadway The Strand (p77) 17 Battery Place (Map 1 D4) Fashion
(Map 3 D2) 828 Broadway (Map 3 D2) Food Market
www.themudtruck.com Books Dean & DeLuca (p65)
Café Meatpacking District 560 Broadway
Little Italy (Map 3 D4)
NY Dosas (p37) $ Alexander McQueen (p161) Food
West 4th Street & Sullivan The Apartment (p66) 417 West 14th Street (Map 3 A2)
Street (Map 3 C3) 101 Crosby Street (Map 3 D4) Fashion Helmut Lang (p62)
Vegetarian Interiors 80 Greene Street
Bonsignour (p72) (Map 3 D5)
Otto Enoteca $$ Calypso (p67) 35 Jane Street (Map 3 B2) Fashion
and Pizzeria (p34) 280 Mott Street (Map 4 E4) Food
1 5th Avenue (Map 3 D3) Fashion Hotel Venus by
Italian Jeffrey (pp74 & 161) Patricia Field (p60)
Hable Construction (p68) 449 West 14th St. (Map 3 A2) 382 West Broadway
La Palapa Rockola (p34) $$ 230 Elizabeth Street Department Store (Map 3 D5)
359 6th Avenue (Map 3 C3) (Map 4 E4) Fashion
Mexican Interiors MXYPLYZYK (p73)
125 Greenwich Ave. (Map 3 B2) Kate Spade Travel (p60)
Sumile (p38) $$$ INA (p67) Interiors 59 Thompson Street
154 West 13th Street (Map 3 C2) 21 Prince Street (Map 4 E4) (Map 3 C5)
Japanese Fashion Stella McCartney (p73) Shoes & Accessories
429 West 14th Street
Paris Commune (p13) $ Mayle (p68) (Map 3 A2) Kate’s Paperie (p66)
99 Bank (Map 3 A3) 242 Elizabeth Street Fashion 561 Broadway
Brunch (Map 4 E4) (Map 3 D4)
Fashion Vitra (p161) Stationery
Pepe Rosso’s (p36) 29 9th Avenue (Map 3 A2)
149 Sullivan Street (Map 3 C4) Rescue Nail Spa (p66) Interiors Keiko (p61)
Italian 21 Cleveland Place (Map 4 E5) 62 Greene Street
Health & Beauty Nolita (Map 3 D5)
Tartine (p38) $ Fashion
253 West 11th Street Lower East Side Bond 07 By Selima (p68)
(Map 3 B2) 7 Bond Street (Map 3 D3) Kirna Zabete (p63)
French ALife Rivington Club (p69) Shoes & Accessories 96 Greene Street (Map 3 D4)
158 Rivington Street Fashion
Tea & Sympathy (p31) (Map 4 G4) LAFCO (p69)
108 Greenwich Avenue Shoes & Accessories 285 Lafayette Street Miu Miu (p63)
(Map 3 C2) (Map 4 E4) 100 Prince Street
British Shop (p70) Health & Beauty (Map 3 D4)
105 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) Fashion
Tomoe Sushi (p33) $$ Fashion Rafe (p68)
172 Thompson Street 1 Bleecker Street (Map 4 E4) Moss (p64)
(Map 3 C4) Teany (p70) Shoes & Accessories 146 Greene Street
Japanese 90 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4) (Map 3 D4)
Food SoHo Interiors
Wallsé (p37) $$$
344 West 11th Street TG-170 (p69) Barney’s Co-Op (p62) Pearl River Mart (p61)
(Map 3A3) 170 Ludlow Street (Map 4 F4) 116 Wooster Street 477 Broadway
Austrian Fashion (Map 3 D4) (Map 3 D5)
Fashion Department Store

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 211
Index by Area
Tonic (p117)
Downtown Museum of Chinese in the
Americas (p160)
Deitch Projects (p96)
18 Wooster Street (Map 3 D5) 107 Norfolk Street (Map 4 G4)
70 Mulberry Street, 2nd Floor Art Gallery Music Venue
Shopping continued (Map 2 E1)
Museum Earth Room (p96) Nolita
141 Wooster Street (Map 3 D4)
Prada (p64) Lower Manhattan Installation The Public Theater (p119)
575 Broadway (Map 3 D4) 425 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E3)
Fashion Federal Hall (p160) West Village Theater
26 Wall Street (Map 1 D4)
SCO (p67) Historic Building Forbes Magazine Gallery (p98) SoHo
584 Broadway (Map 3 D4) 60 5th Avenue at West 12th
Health and Beauty Ground Zero (p95) (Map 1 C3) Street (Map 3 D2) Film Forum (p114)
Modern Architecture Art Gallery 209 West Houston Street
Scoop (p65) (Map 3 C4)
532 Broadway (Map 3 D4) Skyscraper Museum (p95) Jefferson Market Film Theater
Fashion 39 Battery Place (Map 1 D5) Courthouse (p98)
Museum 425 6th Avenue (Map 3 C2) S.O.B’s (p114)
West Village Historic Building 204 Varick Street (Map 3 C4)
St. Paul’s Chapel (p94) Music Venue
Fat Beats (p71) 209 Broadway between Fulton Performance
406 6th Avenue (Map 3 C2) & Vesey Sts (Map 1 D3) Tribeca
Music Church East Village
Knitting Factory (p114)
Flight 001 (p72) Trinity Church (p160) Bowery Poetry Club (p118) 74 Leonard Street (Map 1 D1)
96 Greenwich Ave. (Map 3 B2) Broadway at Wall Street 308 Bowery (Map 4 E4) Music Venue
Shoes & Accessories (Map 1 D4) Music/Poetry Venue
Church West Village
Fresh (p71) CBGB (p118)
388 Bleecker Street (Map 3 B3) U.S. Custom House (p94) 315 Bowery (Map 4 E4) 55 Bar (p116)
Health & Beauty 1 Bowling Green (Map 1 D5) Music Venue 55 Christopher Street
Historic Building (Map 3 C3)
Magnolia Bakery (p71) C-Note (p119) Jazz Venue
401 Bleecker Street (Map 3 B3) Woolworth Building (p96) 157 Avenue C (Map 4 G2)
Food 233 Broadway at Barclay Street Music Venue Blue Note (p115)
(Map 1 D2) 131 West 3rd Street (Map 3 C3)
Marc by Marc Jacobs (p72) Historic Building Landmark’s Sunshine Jazz Venue
403-405 Bleecker Street Theater (p118)
(Map 3 B4) Lower East Side 143 East Houston Street The Comedy Cellar (p115)
Fashion (Map 4 E4) 117 MacDougal St. (Map 3 C3)
Lower East Side Tenement Film Theater Comedy
Marc Jacobs (p64) Museum (p97)
163 Mercer Street (Map 3 D4) 90 Orchard Street (Map 4 F5) Nuyorican Poet’s Cafe (p119) Cornelia Street Cafe (p115)
Fashion Museum 236 East 3rd Street (Map 4 G3) 29 Cornelia Street (Map 3 C3)
Poetry Music/Poetry Venue
Subterranean Records (p71) Meatpacking District
5 Cornelia Street (Map 3 C3) P.S.122 (p120) Duplex (p116)
Music Karkula Gallery (p161) 150 1st Avenue (Map 4 F2) 61 Christopher Street
68 Gansevoort Street Combined Arts Center (Map 3 B3)
Art & Architecture (Map 3 A2) Cabaret
Interiors Lower East Side
Chinatown Village Vanguard (p116)
Nolita Arlene’s Grocery (p117) 178 7th Avenue South
Leo Koenig (p96) 95 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) (Map 3 B2)
249 Centre Street Merchant’s House Music Venue Jazz Venue
(Map 2 E2) Museum (p97)
212 334 9255 29 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Bowery Ballroom (p117) Bars & Clubs
Art Gallery Museum 6 Delancey Street (Map 4 E5)
Music Venue Chinatown
Mahayana Buddhist SoHo
Temple (p160) Mercury Lounge (p116) Winnie’s (p136)
133 Canal Street Broken Kilometer (p96) 217 East Houston Street 104 Bayard Street
(Map 2 E1) 393 West Broadway (Map 3 D5) (Map 4 F4) (Map 2 E1)
Temple Installation Music Venue Bar

212 www.enewyork.dk.com
Downtown – Midtown
East Village Little Italy THOM’s Bar (p137) Hotels
60 Thompson Street (Map 3 C5)
2A (p141) ñ (p138) Cocktail Lounge Meatpacking District
25 Avenue A (Map 4 F3) 33 Crosby Street (Map 3 D5)
Bar Bar West Village Abingdon $
Guest House (p183)
Angel’s Share (p142) Lower East Side Blind Tiger Ale House (p147) 13 8th Avenue (Map 3 B2)
8 Stuyvesant Street 518 Hudson Street
(Map 4 E2) Arlene’s Grocery (p117) (Map 3 B3) SoHo House $$$
Cocktail Lounge 95 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) Ale House New York (p184)
Bar & Music Venue 29–35 9th Avenue (Map 3 A2)
Bar Veloce (p144) Chumley’s (p146)
175 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E2) Barramundi (p140) 86 Bedford Street (Map 3 B3) SoHo
Bar 67 Clinton Street (Map 4 F4) Bar
Bar Bevy’s SoHo Loft (p182) $
Beauty Bar (p144) Lotus (p144) 70 Mercer Street (Map 3 D5)
231 East 14th Street (Map 4 E2) Slipper Room (p141) 409 West 14th Street
DJ Bar 167 Orchard Street (Map 4 F4) (Map 3 A2) 60 Thompson (p182) $$$
Bar DJ Bar 60 Thompson Street (3 C5)
Chez es Saada (p141)
42 East 1st Street (Map 4 F4) Welcome to the Stonewall (p147) Mercer Hotel (p182) $$$
Bar Johnson’s (p140) 53 Christopher Street 147 Mercer Street (Map 3 D4)
123 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4) (Map 3 B3)
KGB (p142) Bar Bar SoHo Grand Hotel (p182) $$
85 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) 310 West Broadway (Map 3 D5)
Bar Lower Manhattan Sullivan Room (p146)
218 Sullivan Street Tribeca
Korova Milk Bar (p145) Pussycat Lounge (p136) (Map 3 C3)
200 Avenue A (Map 4 F2) 96 Greenwich Street (Map 1 D4) DJ Bar Tribeca Grand $$$
Bar Bar Hotel (p183)
Vol de Nuit (p146) Two Avenue of the Americas
Lansky Lounge (p139) Meatpacking District 148 West 4th Street (Map 3 C3) (Map 3 C5)
104 Norfolk Street (Map 4 G4) Ale House
Cocktail Lounge/DJ Bar Cielo (pp148 & 161) West Village
18 Little West 12th Street White Horse Tavern (p147)
McSorley’s Old (Map 3 A2) 567 Hudson Street Washington Square $
Ale House (p142) Club (Map 3 B3) Hotel (p183)
15 East 7th Street Ale House 103 Waverly Place (Map 3 C3)
(Map 4 E3) Cubbyhole (p148)
Ale House 281 West 12th Street (Map 3 B2) Havens:
Bar
Nevada Smith’s (p142)
Parks & Gardens Midtown
74 3rd Avenue (Map 4 E2) Rhône (p148) Lower Manhattan
Bar 63 Gansevoort Street (Map 3 A2) Restaurants
Bar Battery Park (p160)
Parkside Lounge (p141) Battery Place & State Street Chelsea
317 East Houston Street Nolita (Map 1 D4)
(Map 4 G4) www.bpcparks.org Biltmore Room (p40) $$$
Bar B-Bar & Grill (p143) 290 8th Avenue (Map 5 C5)
40 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Havens: International
Rue B (p145) Bar Spas & Treatments
188 Avenue B City Bakery (p39) $
(Map 4 G2) Pravda (p139) SoHo 3 West 18th Street (Map 3 C1)
Bar 281 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E4) Bakery
Cocktail Lounge Angel Feet (p170)
Swift (p142) 77 Perry Street (Map 3 B3) Grand Sichuan
34 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Temple Bar (p138) International (p39) $
Ale House 332 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E4) Bliss SoHo (p170) 229 9th Avenue (Map 5 C5)
Cocktail Lounge 568 Broadway (Map 3 D4) Chinese
Uncle Ming’s (p146) SoHo
225 Avenue B, Jivamukti Yoga Center (p171) Red Cat (p39) $$
2nd Floor Antarctica (p136) 404 Lafayette Street 227 10th Avenue (Map 5 B5)
(Map 4 G2) 287 Hudson Street (Map 3 C5) (Map 4 E3) International
DJ Bar Bar

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 213
Index by Area
Jimmy Choo (p78)
Midtown Hell’s Kitchen Shopping
645 5th Avenue (Map 8 E5)
Sandwich Planet (p43) $ Chelsea Shoes & Accessories
Restaurants continued 534 9th Avenue (Map 5 C2)
Deli La Cafetiere (p74) Manolo Blahnik (p78)
160 9th Avenue (Map 3 A1) 31 West 54th Street (Map 8 E5)
Wild Lily Tea Room (p171) Murray Hill Interiors Shoes & Accessories
511-a West 22nd Street
(Map 5 B5) Cho Dang Gol (p43) $ Chelsea Flea Market (p162) Niketown (p80)
Tea Room 55 West 35th Street (Map 6 E3) North West corner of 24th 6 East 57th Street (Map 8 E5)
Korean Street and 6th Avenue Shoes & Accessories
Flatiron (Map 5 D5)
Ess-a-Bagel (p44) $ Market Sak’s Fifth Avenue (p76)
Tamarind (p41) $$ 831 3rd Avenue (Map 6 F1) 611 5th Avenue (Map 6 EI)
41–3 East 22nd Street Bagel Shop Gap (p70) Department Store
(Map 6 F5) 60 West 34th Street (Map5 D3)
Indian Theater District Fashion Takashimaya (p79)
693 5th Avenue (Map 8 E5)
Bolo (p40) $$$ Acqua Pazza (p45) $$$ Jazz Record Center (p78) Department Store
23 East 22nd Street (Map 6 E5) 36 West 52nd Street 236 West 26th Street,
Spanish (Map 8 E5) 8th floor (Map 5 C5) Art & Architecture
Italian Music
Tabla (p40) $$$ Chelsea
11 Madison Avenue Aquavit (p45) $$$ Macy’s (p76)
(Map 6 E5) 65 East 55th Street 151 West 34th Street Gagosian (p96)
Indian (Map 8 F5) (Map 5 D3) 555 West 24th Street (Map 5 B5)
Swedish Department Store www.gagosian.com
Mandoo Bar (p42) $ Art Gallery
2 West 32nd Street (Map 6 E4) Churrascaria $$$ Flatiron
Korean Plataforma (p44) Mary Boone (p96)
316 West 49th Street Carapan Urban Spa 541 West 24th Street (Map 5 B5)
Gramercy (Map 5 C1) and Store (p75) www.maryboone.com
South American 5 West 16th Street (Map 3 C1) Art Gallery
Artisanal (p42) $$ Health & Beauty
2 Park Avenue (Map 6 F4) Four Seasons (p38) $$$ Museum at the Fashion
European 99 East 52nd Street Gramercy Institute of Technology (p98)
(Map 7 D5) 7th Avenue at 27th Street
Blue Smoke (p41) $$ American ABC Carpet and Home (p75) (Map 5 D4)
116 East 27th Street (Map 6 F4) 888 Broadway (Map 3 D1) Museum
American Genki Sushi (p44) $ Interiors
9 East 46th Street Pace Wildenstein (p96)
Dos Caminos (p41) $$ (Map 6 E1) Paragon Sporting Goods (p76) 534 West 25th Street (Map 5 B5)
373 Park Avenue S. (Map 6 F5) Japanese 867 Broadway (Map 3 D1) Art Gallery
Mexican Sporting Goods
Mi Nidito (p43) $$ Gramercy
Gramercy Tavern (p38) 852 8th Avenue Union Square
42 East 20th Street (Map 4 E1) (Map 5 C1) Green Market (p162) Block Beautiful (p98)
212 477 0777 Mexican Union Square (Map 3 D1) East 19th Street, between
American Market Irving Place & 3rd Avenue
Norma’s (p46) $$ (Map 4 E1)
i Trulli (p42) $$$ Le Parker Meridien Hotel Theater District Historic Building
122 East 27th Street 118 West 57th Street
(Map 6 F4) (Map 7 D5) Bergdorf Goodman (p81) Murray Hill
Italian Breakfast/Brunch 754 5th Avenue (Map 8 E4)
Department Store Chanin Building (p99)
Lady Mendl’s Tea Room (p31) Palm Court Tea Room (p31) 122 East 42nd Street at
56 Irving Place Plaza Hotel, 768 5th Avenue Felissimo (p80) Lexington Avenue
(Map 4 E1) (Map 8 E4) 10 West 56th Street (Map 8 E5) (Map 6 F2)
Tea Room Tea Room Interiors Modern Architecture

Union Square Café (p39) $$$ Town (p46) $$$ Henri Bendel (p76) Chrysler Building (p99)
21 East 16th Street Chambers Hotel, 712 5th Avenue 405 Lexington Avenue
(Map 3 D1) 15 West 56th Street (Map 8 E5) (Map 8 E5) (Map 6 F2)
American International Department Store Modern Architecture

214 Link to shops in your area via www.enewyork.dk.com


Midtown
Daily News Building (p99) Kavehaz (p121) Bars and Clubs Grand Central Terminal
220 East 42nd Street (Map 6 G2) 37 West 26th Street (Map 6 E5) (Map 6 F2)
Modern Architecture Music Venue Chelsea Bar

General Electric Building (p99) Gramercy Avalon (p149) The Ginger Man (p151)
570 Lexington Avenue 47 West 20th Street (Map 3 C1) 11 East 36th Street (Map 6 E3)
at 51st Street (Map 6 F1) Rodeo Bar (p122) DJ Bar Bar
Modern Architecture 375 3rd Avenue (Map 6 F5)
Music Venue Bungalow 8 (p150) Métrazur (p152)
Whitney Museum of American 515 West 27th Street (Map 5 B4) East Balcony, Grand Central
Art at Altria (p100) Hell’s Kitchen Bar Station (Map 6 F2)
120 Park Avenue at 42nd Cocktail Lounge
Street (Map 6 F2) The Soul Cafe (p122) Copacabana (p151)
Museum 444 West 42nd St. (Map 5 B2) 560 West 34th Street (Map 5 B3) Theater District
Music Venue Ball Room
Theater District Round Table Room
Theater District Glass (p150) Algonquin Hotel (p16)
International Center of 287 10th Avenue (Map 5 B5) 59 West 44th Street (Map6 E2)
Photography (p100) B.B. King Blues Club (p122) Bar Cocktail Lounge
1133 Avenue of the Americas 237 West 42nd St. (Map 5 C2)
(Map 5 D2) Jazz & Blues Venue Hiro (p150) Ava Lounge (p152)
Art Gallery 366 West 17th Street (Map 3 A1) 210 West 55th Street (Map 7 D5)
Carnegie Hall (p125) Bar Bar
Museum of Modern Art (p101) 881 7th Avenue at 57th Street
11 West 53rd Street (Map 8 E5) (Map 7 D5) Plunge Bar (p155) Flûte (p152)
Museum Concert Hall 18 9th Avenue (Map 3 A1) 205 West 54th Street (Map 7 D5)
Bar DJ Bar
Museum of Television City Center (p123)
and Radio (p103) 131 West 55th Street (Map 7 D5) Roxy (p149) Russian Vodka Room (p153)
25 West 52nd Street (Map 8 E5) Combined Arts Center 515 West 18th Street (Map 3 A1) 265 West 52nd Street (Map 7 C5)
Museum Club Bar
Don’t Tell Mama (p123)
Rose Museum at 343 West 46th Street (Map 5 C1) Serena (p149) Single Room Occupancy (p152)
Carnegie Hall (p100) Cabaret Chelsea Hotel, 360 West 53rd Street (Map 7 C5)
154 West 57th Street, 2nd Floor 222 West 23rd Street Bar
(Map 7 D5) Ed Sullivan Theater (p124) (Map 5 C5)
Museum 51 West 52nd Street (Map 7 D5) Bar Turtle Bay
TV Studio
Performance Spirit (p150) Mica Bar (p148)
NBC Studios (p124) 530 West 27th Street 252 East 51st Street (Map 6 F1)
Chelsea Main Lobby, 49th St.between (Map 5 B4) Bar
5th & 7th Aves (Map 6 E1) Bar
Hammerstein Ballroom (p121) TV Studio Top of the Tower @ Beekman
311 West 34th Street (Map 5 C3) Flatiron Tower Hotel (p172)
Music Venue Rainbow Room (p123) 3 Mitchell Place at 49th Street
30 Rockefeller Plaza, 65th Eugene (p149) & First Avenue (Map 6 G1)
The Joyce Theater (p120) Floor (Map 6 E1) 27 West 24th Street (Map 6 E5) Bar
175 8th Avenue (Map 3 B1) Ball Room Club
Dance Havens:
Roundabout/A A Theatre (p122) Sky Bar (p155) Spas & Treatments
The Kitchen (p120) 227 West 42nd St.(Map 5 D2) 17 West 32nd Street (Map 6 E4)
512 West 19th Street (Map 3 A1) Theater Bar with view Theater District
Combined Arts Center
Swing 46 (p123) Hell’s Kitchen The Spa at the Mandarin
Upright Citizen’s Brigade (p121) 349 West 46th Street (Map 5 C1) Oriental (p172)
307 West 26th Street (Map 5 C5) Ball Room Rudy’s Bar & Grill (p148) 80 Columbus Circle at 60th
Comedy 627 9th Avenue (Map 5 C1) Street, 35th Floor (Map 7 C4)
Sports Arenas Bar
Flatiron Hotels
Flatiron Murray Hill
Gotham Comedy Club (p121) Chelsea
34 West 22nd Street Madison Square Garden (p131) Campbell Apartment (p151)
(Map 6 E5) Map 6 E5 15 Vanderbilt Avenue Chelsea Inn (p185) $
Comedy Sports Arena Southwest Balcony 46 West 17th Street (Map 3 C1)

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 215
Index by Area
Candle 79 (p48) Diane B (p83)
Midtown $$
154 East 79th Street (Map 8 F1) 1414 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F2)
Whitney Museum of
American Art (p101)
Vegetarian/Vegan Fashion 945 Madison Avenue
(Map 8 E2)
Chelsea Lodge (p185) $ Geisha (p46) $$$ Dylan’s Candy Bar (p82) Museum
318 West 20th Street (Map 3 B1) 33 East 61st Street (Map 8 E4) 1011 3rd Avenue
Japanese (Map 8 F4) Performance
Hotel Chelsea (p183) $$ Food
222 West 23rd Street (Map 5 C5) March (p47) $$$ 92nd Street Y (p125)
405 East 58th Street (Map 8 H4) Liliblue (p83) 1395 Lexington Avenue
Maritime Hotel (p185) $$ Asian 955 Madison Avenue (Map 10 F4)
363 West 16th Street (Map 3 A1) (Map 8 E2) Combined Arts Center
Mezzaluna (p47) $$ Shoes & Accessories
Gramercy 1295 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F2) The Comic Strip (p125)
Italian La Perla (p82) 1568 2nd Avenue (Map 8 G1)
West Union Square (p185) $$ 803 Madison Avenue Comedy
201 Park Avenue S (Map 3D1) Rotunda at the Pierre (p174) (Map 8 E3)
The Pierre Hotel, 2 East 61st Lingerie Florence Gould Hall (p124)
Murray Hill Street (Map 8 E4) 55 East 59th Street (Map 8 F4)
Tea Room Searle (p84) Combined Arts Center
Morgans (p187) $$$ 1124 Madison Avenue
237 Madison Avenue Serendipity 3 (p47) $$$ (Map 10 E5) Bars
(Map 6 E3) 225 East 60th Street (Map 8 F4) Fashion
American Baraonda (p153)
Theater District Art & Architecture 1439 2nd Avenue (Map 8 G2)
Sushi of Gari (p49) $$$ Bar
Bryant Park Hotel (p186) $$ 402 East 78th Street (Map 8 G1) Asia Society (p103)
40 West 40th Street Japanese 725 Park Avenue. at 70th Bemelmans Bar (p153)
(Map 6 E2) Street (Map 8 F2) Carlyle Hotel, 35 East 76th
Via Quadronno (p31) Gallery Street (Map 8 E1)
Four Seasons (p188) $$$ 25 East 73rd Street (Map 8 F2) Bar
57 East 57th Street www.viaquadronno.com Cooper-Hewitt National Design
(Map 8 E5) Italian Museum (p105) Havens:
2 East 91st Street Parks & Gardens
The Peninsula (p186) $$$ Shopping (Map 10 E4)
700 5th Avenue at 55th Street Museum Conservatory Gardens at
(Map 8 E5) ABH Designs (p84) Central Park (p173)
401 East 76th Street (Map 8 H1) Frick Collection (p102) 5th Avenue at 110th Street
The Plaza (p183) $$$ Interiors 1 East 70th Street (Map 10 E2)
5th Avenue at Central Park (Map 8 E2)
South (Map 8 E4) Barney’s New York (p82) Museum The Iris and B. Gerald Cantor
660 Madison Avenue Roof Garden (p172)
Royalton (p186) $$ (Map 8 E4) Guggenheim Museum (p104) Metropolitan Museum of Art,
44 West 44th Street (Map 6 E2) Department Store 1071 5th Avenue at 89th Street 1000 5th Avenue
(Map 10 E4) (Map 8 E1)
St. Regis (p186) $$$ Bloomingdale’s (p76) Museum
2 East 55th Street 1000 3rd Avenue The Ramble at
(Map 8 E5) (Map 8 F4) The Jewish Museum (p105) Central Park (p173)
Department Store 1109 5th Avenue at 92nd 5th Avenue between 72nd and
Street (Map 10 E4) 80th Sts (Map 7 D2)
Bra Smyth (p82)
Upper 905 Madison Avenue
Museum
Hotels
(Map 8 E2)
East Side Lingerie
Metropolitan Museum
of Art (p103) 1871 House (p188) $$
1000 5th Avenue (Map 8 E1) 130 East 62nd Street
Restaurants Christian Louboutin (p83) Museum (Map 8 F4)
941 Madison Avenue
Annie’s (p47) $ (Map 8 E2) El Museo del Barrio (p107) The Carlyle (p183) $$$
1381 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F1) Shoes & Accessories 1230 5th Avenue at 104th Madison Avenue at 76th Street
American Street (Map 10 E2) (Map 8 E1)
Clyde’s (p83) Museum www.thecarlyle.com
Atlantic Grill (p48) $$ 926 Madison Avenue
1341 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F1) (Map 8 E2)
Seafood Heath & Beauty

216 www.enewyork.dk.com
Midtown – Brooklyn
Hotel Wales (p190) $$ Housing Works Library Bar (p148) Performance
1295 Madison Avenue Thrift Shop (p85) Hudson Hotel, 356 West 58th
(Map 10 E4) 306 Columbus Avenue Street (Map 7 B4) Harlem
(Map 7 C2) Bar
The Lowell (p189) $$$ Thrift Store Apollo Theater (p128)
28 East 63rd Street (Map 8 F4) Hotels 253 West 125th Street
Intermix (p84) (Map 11 D3)
The Mark (p189) $$$ 210 Columbus Avenue Hudson Hotel (p187) $$ Music/Combined Arts Venue
25 East 77th Street (Map 8 E1) (Map 7 C3) 356 West 58th Street (Map 7 C4)
Fashion Lenox Lounge (p129)
The Melrose (p189) $$ 288 Lenox Avenue between
140 East 63rd Street Super Runners (p85) 124th & 125th Sts
(Map 8 F4) 360 Amsterdam Avenue Above (Map 11 D3)
(Map 7 B1)
The Pierre (p189) $$$ Sporting Goods Central Park Jazz Venue

5th Avenue at 61st Street Clubs


(Map 8 E4) Zabar’s (p85) Restaurants
2245 Broadway (Map 7 B1) Harlem
Food Columbia University
Jimmy’s Uptown (p154)
Upper Art and Architecture Symposium (p51) $$ 2207 Adam Clayton Powell, Jr.
544 West 113th St. (Map 11 B5) Blvd. (Map 11 D3)
West Side Cathedral Church of St. John Greek Club
Divine (p174)
Restaurants 1047 Amsterdam Avenue Fort Tryon Hotels
(Map 9 B1)
Aix (p51) $$$ Church New Leaf Café (p51) $$ Harlem
2398 Broadway (Map 9 B5) Fort Tryon Park
French Performance American The Harlem $
Flophouse (p190)
El Malecón II (p50) $ Lincoln Center for the Harlem 242 West 123rd Street
764 Amsterdam Avenue (9 B3) Performing Arts (p126) (Map 11 D4)
Caribbean Straddling Broadway and Amy Ruth’s (p163) $
Amsterdam Avenue between 113 West 116th St. (Map 11 D5)
Ouest (p49) 62nd and 66th Sts 212 280 8779
2315 Broadway (Map 9 B5)
$$$
(Map 7 B3) American Brooklyn
American Performing Arts Center
Shopping Restaurants
Pasha (p50) $$ Makor (p127)
70 West 71st Street (Map 7 C2) 35 West 67th Street (Map 7 C3) Harlem Brooklyn Heights
Turkish Combined Arts Center
Demolition Depot (p86) Brooklyn Ice Cream $
Picholine (p50) $$$ Merkin Concert Hall (p125) 216 East 125th St. (Map 12 G3) Factory (p164)
35 West 64th Street (Map 7 C3) 129 West 67th Street (Map 7 B3) Interiors Fulton Ferry Landing
European Concert Hall (Map 13 A4)
Xukuma (p86) Ice Cream Parlor
Tavern on the Green (p38) Smoke (p127) 183 Lenox Avenue (11 D4)
Central Park West between 2751 Broadway (Map 9 B2) Fashion/Interiors Connecticut Muffin (p164) $
66th and 67th Sts (Map 7 C3) Jazz Venue 115 Montague Street
212 873 3200 Art & Architecture (Map 13 A4)
www.tavernonthegreen.com Stand-Up NY (p127) Bakery
American 236 West 78th Street (Map 7 B2) Fort Tryon
Comedy Noodle Pudding (p51) $$
Shopping The Cloisters (p106) 38 Henry Street (Map 13 A3)
Symphony Space (p127) Fort Tryon Park Italian
Blades Board & Skate (p84) 2537 Broadway (Map 9 B3) Museum
120 West 72nd Street Combined Arts Center The River Café (p52) $$$
(Map 7 B2) Harlem 1 Water Street (Map 13 A3)
Sporting Goods Bars & Clubs International
Studio Museum in
Boat Basin Café (p155) Harlem (p107) Teresa’s (p164) $$
West 79th St. at Henry Hudson 144 West 125th Street 80 Montague St. (Map 13 A4)
Parkway (Map 7 A1) (Map 11 D3) Polish
Bar Museum

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 217
Index by Area
Park Slope Chip Shop (p53) $ Butter (p87) Moon River Chattel (p91)
Brooklyn 383 5th Avenue (Map 13 C5) 407 Atlantic Avenue 62 Grand Street (Map 13 B2)
British (Map 13 B4) Interiors
Restaurants continued Fashion
Williamsburg Spacial (pp89 & 165)
Carroll Gardens Brooklyn Heights 199 Bedford Avenue
Anna Maria’s (p165) $ (Map 13 B2)
The Grocery (p52) $$ 179 Bedford Avenue Heights Books (p164) Interiors/Fashion
288 Smith Street (Map 13 B4) (Map 13 C2) 109 Montague Street
American Pizzeria (Map 13 A4) Spoonbill & Sugartown
Books (pp88 &165)
Joya (p52) $ Bamonte’s (p55) $$ 218 Bedford Avenue (Map 13 C2)
215 Court Street (Map 13 B4) 32 Withers Street Park Slope Books
Thai (Map 13 C1)
Italian Loom (p87) Two Jakes (p91)
Coney Island 115 7th Avenue (Map 13 C5) 320 Wythe Avenue (Map 13 B2)
Bliss Café (p165) Interiors Interiors
Café Arbat (p166) 191 Bedford Avenue
306 Brighton Beach Avenue (Map 13 C2) Nest (p88) Art & Architecture
Eastern European Vegetarian 396A 7th Avenue (Map 13 C5)
Interiors Boerum Hill
Café Glechik (p166) Cukiernia (p165) $
3159 Coney Island Avenue 223 Bedford Avenue Williamsburg Brooklyn Historical
Eastern European (Map 13 B2) Society (p109)
Bakery Beacon’s Closet (p89) 128 Pierrepont Street
Nathan’s Famous $ 88 North 11th St. (Map 13 B1) (Map 2 H5)
Hotdogs (p166) Peter Luger $$$ Thrift Store Museum
Corner of Surf & Steak House (p55)
Stillwell Aves 178 Broadway (Map 13 C2) Bedford Cheese Shop (p165) Brooklyn Museum
American American 218 Bedford Avenue of Art (p108)
(Map 13 C2) 200 Eastern Parkway
Fort Greene Planet Thailand (p55) $ Food (Map 13 D4)
133 North 7th Street Museum
Butta’Cup Lounge (p54) $$ (Map 13 B2) Brooklyn Industries (p165)
271 Adelphi Street Thai/Japanese 162 Bedford Avenue Williamsburg Savings Bank
(Map 13 C3) (Map 13 C2) Building (p109)
American Relish (p55) $$ Shoes & Accessories 1 Hanson Place, corner of
225 Wythe Avenue (Map 13 B2) Flatbush and Atlantic Aves
i-Shebeen Madiba (p54) $$ American Brooklyn Lager Brewery (p165) (Map 13 C4)
195 DeKalb Avenue 79 North 11th Street Modern Architecture
(Map 13 C3) S & B Polish Restaurant (p165) (Map 13 C2)
South African 194 Bedford Avenue www.brooklynbrewery.com Park Slope
(Map 13 C2) Food
LouLou (p53) $$ Restaurant Prospect Park West (p107)
222 DeKalb Avenue Earwax Records (p90) between Union and 15th Sts
(Map 13 C3) Verb Café (p165) $ 218 Bedford Avenue (Map 13 C5)
French 218 Bedford Avenue (Map 13 B2) Historic Buildings
(Map 13 C2) Music
Midwood Café Williamsburg
Isa (p89)
DiFara Pizzeria (p54) $ Shopping 88 North 6th Street Momenta Art (p108)
1424 Avenue J (Map 13 B2) 72 Berry Street (Map 13 B1)
Pizzeria Boerum Hill Fashion Art Gallery

Park Slope Astroturf (p91) Metaphors (p165) Pierogi 2000 (p108)


290 Smith Street 195 Bedford Avenue 177 North 9th Street (Map 13 B1)
Al Di La (p53) $$ (Map 13 B4) (Map 13 C2) www.pierogi2000.com
248 5th Avenue (Map 13 C4) Interiors Fashion Art Gallery
Italian
Bark (p87) Mini Minimarket (p88) Williamsburg Art & Historical
Convivium Osteria (p53) $$ 495 Atlantic Avenue 218 Bedford Avenue Center (p108)
68 5th Avenue (Map 13 B4) (Map 13 B2) 135 Broadway at Bedford
(Map 13 C4) Interiors Fashion Avenue (Map 13 B2)
Italian Art Gallery

218 Connect up with other parts of town on www.enewyork.dk.com


Brooklyn – New Jersey
Performance Park Slope Hotels The Bronx
Brooklyn Heights Buttermilk Bar (p156) Boerum Hill
577 5th Avenue Shopping
Barge Music (p130) (Map 13 C5) Union Street B&B (p191) $
Fulton Ferry Landing Bar 405 Union Street (Map 13 B4) Borgatti’s Ravioli & Noodle
(Map 2 G3) Company (p167)
Concert Hall Great Lakes (p155) Park Slope 632 East 187th Street
284 5th Avenue (Map 13 C4) Food
Fort Greene Bar Bed & Breakfast $$
on the Park (p191) Egidio Pastry Shop (p167)
Brooklyn Academy of Music Williamsburg 113 Prospect Park West 622 East 187th Street
(BAM) (p129) (Map 13 C5) Food
30 Lafayette Avenue Black Betty (p156)
(Map 13 C4) 366 Metropolitan Avenue at Stuyvesant Heights Sports Arenas
Performing Arts Center Havermeyer Street
(Map 13 C2) Akwaaba Mansion (p191) $ Yankee Stadium (p131)
Greenpoint Bar 347 MacDonough Street 161st Street & River Avenue
Baseball Stadium
Warsaw (p130) Spuyten Duyvil (p156)
261 Driggs Avenue (Map 13 C1) 359 Metropolitan Avenue Havens:
Music Venue (Map 13 C2) Queens Parks & Gardens
Ale House
Bars & Clubs Restaurants Wave Hill (p175)
Larry Lawrence (p156) 675 West 252nd Street
Boerum Hill 295 Grand Street Jackson Diner (p167) Garden
(Map 13 C2) 37 74th Street
Frank’s Lounge (p154) Cocktail Lounge American
660 Fulton Street
(Map 13 B4) Galapagos (p157) Shopping New Jersey
DJ Bar 70 North 6th Street
(Map 13 B2) Patel Brothers (p167) Performance
Zombie Hut (p154) Bar/Music Venue 37–27 74th Street
261 Smith Street Food New Jersey Performing Arts
(Map 13 B4) Trash (p156) Center (NJPAC) (p131)
Cocktail Lounge 256 Grand Street Sahil Sari Palace (p167) 1 Center Street, Newark
(Map 13 C2) 37–55 74th Street Performing Arts Center
Gowanus Yacht Club (p155) Bar Fashion
323 Smith Street Sports Arenas
(Map 13 B4) Havens: Art & Architecture
Bar Parks & Gardens Giants Stadium (p131)
Noguchi Sculpture 50 State Route 120 (off map)
Coney Island Crown Heights Museum (p177) East Rutherford, New Jersey
32–37 Vernon Boulevard, Football and Soccer Stadium
Ruby’s (p155) Brooklyn Botanic Long Island City
Coney Island Boardwalk Garden (p176) Art Gallery/Garden
Bar 1000 Washington Avenue
(Map 13 D4) P.S.1 (p109)
Greenpoint 22–5 Jackson Avenue
Jamaica Bay Art Gallery
Warsaw (p130)
261 Driggs Avenue Jamaica Bay Sports Arenas
(Map 13 C1) Wildlife Refuge (p176)
Bar/Music Venue Crossbay Boulevard, Shea Stadium (p131)
Broad Channel 123-01 Roosevelt Avenue
Queens/Flushing Meadows
Park Slope Baseball Stadium

Prospect Park (p175)


www.prospectpark.org
(Map 13 D5)

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 219
Index by Type
Mercer Kitchen (p25) $$ March (p47) $$$ Norma’s (p46) $$
Restaurants 99 Prince Street (Map 3 D5) 405 East 58th Street (Map 8 H4) Le Parker Meridien Hotel, 118
Downtown/SoHo Upper East Side West 57th Street (Map 7 D5)
Recommended places to eat, Midtown/Theater District
including cafés, tea rooms, Nathan’s Famous $ Austrian
and delicatessens Hotdogs (p166) Paris Commune (p13)
Corner of Surf & Wallsé (p37) $$$ 99 Bank Street (Map 3 A3)
American Stillwell Aves 344 West 11th Street (Map 3 A3) Downtown/West Village
Brooklyn/Coney Island Downtown/West Village
Alias (p28) $$ British
76 Clinton Street (Map 4 G4) New Leaf Café (p51) $$ Bakeries
Downtown/Lower East Side Fort Tryon Park, One Margaret Park Slope Chip Shop (p53) $
Corbin Drive (off map) See also Cafés, Delis, and 383 5th Avenue (Map 13 C5)
Amy Ruth’s (p163) $ Above Central Park/Fort Tryon Tea Rooms Brooklyn/Park Slope
113 West 116th Street & Inwood
(Map 11 D5) Bonsignour (p72) $ Tea & Sympathy (p31)
212 280 8779 Ouest (p49) $$$ 35 Jane Street (Map 3 B2) 108 Greenwich Ave. (Map 3 C2)
Above Central Park/Harlem 2315 Broadway (Map 9 B5) Downtown/Meatpacking www.teaandsympathy
Upper West Side District newyork.com
Annie’s (p47) $ Downtown/West Village
1381 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F1) Paul’s Palace (p31) $ Egidio Pastry Shop (p167) $
Upper East Side 131 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E3) 622 East 187th Street Cafés
Downtown/East Village Bronx
Blue Smoke (p41) $$ See also Bakeries, Delis, and
116 East 27th Street (Map 6 F4) Peter Luger $$$ Ess-a-Bagel (p44) $ Tea Rooms
Midtown/Gramercy Steak House (p55) 831 3rd Avenue (Map 6 F1)
178 Broadway (Map 13 C2) Midtown/Murray Hill Bonsignour (p72)
Butta’Cup Lounge (p54) $$ Brooklyn/Williamsburg 35 Jane Street (Map 3 B2)
271 Adelphi Street (Map 13 C3) City Bakery (p39) $ Downtown/Meatpacking
Brooklyn/Fort Greene Relish (p55) $$ 3 West 18th Street District
225 Wythe Avenue (Map 13 B2) (Map 3 C1)
Crif Dogs (p36) $ Brooklyn/Williamsburg Midtown/Chelsea Connecticut Muffin (p164) $
113 St. Mark’s Place (Map 4 F3) 115 Montague Street
Downtown/East Village Serendipity 3 (p47) $ Cukiernia (p165) $ (Map 13 A4)
225 East 60th Street 223 Bedford Avenue Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights
Florent (p38) $$ (Map 8 F4) (Map 13 B2)
69 Gansevoort Street Upper East Side Brooklyn/Williamsburg DT–UT (p162) $
(Map 3 A2) 41 Avenue B (Map 4 G2)
Downtown/Meatpacking Tavern on the Green (p38) Dean & DeLuca (pp13, 65) $ Downtown/East Village
District Central Park West between 560 Broadway (Map 3 D4)
66th & 67th Streets (Map 7 C3) Downtown/SoHo Egidio Pastry Shop (p167) $
Four Seasons (p38) $$$ 212 873 3200 622 East 187th Street
99 East 52nd Street (Map 7 D5) www.tavernonthegreen.com Magnolia Bakery (p71) $ Bronx
www.fourseasons Upper West Side 401 Bleeker Street
restaurant.com (Map 3 B3) Housing Works Used Book $
Midtown/Theater District Top of the Tower @ Beekman Downtown/West Village Café (p15)
Tower Hotel (p172) 126 Crosby Street (Map 3 D4)
Gramercy Tavern (p38) 3 Mitchell Place at 49th Street Belgian Downtown/Nolita
42 East 20th Street (Map 4 E1) & 1st Avenue (Map 6 G1)
212 477 0777 Midtown/Turtle Bay Pommes Frites (p36) $ Joe (p31) $
Midtown/Gramercy 123 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E3) 141 Waverly Place
Union Square Café (p39) $$$ Downtown/East Village 212 924 6750 (Map 3 C3)
The Grocery (p52) $$ 21 East 16th Street (Map 3 D1) Downtown/West Village
288 Smith Street (Map 13 B4) Midtown/Gramercy Breakfast/Brunch
Brooklyn/Carroll Gardens Mud Spot (p31) $
WD-50 (p28) $$$ Deborah (p13) $ 307 East 9th Street (Map 4 E2)
Jackson Diner (p167) 50 Clinton Street (Map 4 G4) 43 Carmine Street www.themudtruck.com
37 74th Street Downtown/Lower East Side (Map 3 C4) Downtown/East Village
Queens/Jackson Heights Downtown/West Village
Asian Mud Truck (p31) $
Jane (p26) $$ Florent (p13, 38) $ 14th Street & Broadway
100 West Houston Street Daily Chow (p30) $ 69 Gansevoort Street (Map 3 D2)
(Map 3 D4) 2 East 2nd Street (Map 4 E3) (Map 3 A2) www.themudtruck.com
Downtown/West Village Downtown/East Village Downtown/West Village Downtown/West Village

220 www.enewyork.dk.com
Restaurants
Rue B (p162) $ Delis/Sandwich Shops www.fourseasons Symposium (p51) $$
188 Avenue B (Map 4 G2) restaurant.com 544 West 113th Street
Downtown/East Village See also Bakeries, Cafés, and Midtown/Theater District (Map 11 B5)
Tea Rooms Above Central Park/Columbia
Verb Café (p165) $ Montrachet (p24) $$$ University
218 Bedford Avenue 2nd Avenue Deli (p33) $$ 239 West Broadway (Map 1 C1)
(Map 13 C2) 156 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E2) Downtown/Tribeca Ice Cream Parlors
www.verbcafe.com Downtown/East Village
Brooklyn/Williamsburg Picholine (p50) $$$ Brooklyn Ice Cream $
Amish Fine Food Market (p160) 35 West 64th Street (Map 7 C3) Factory (p164)
Via Quadronno (p31) 17 Battery Place (Map 1 D5) Upper West Side Fulton Ferry Landing
25 East 73rd Street Downtown/Lower Manhattan (Map 13 A4)
212 650 9880 French Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights
(Map 8 F2) BB Sandwich Bar (p36) $
Upper East Side 120 West 3rd Street (Map 3 C3) Aix (p51) $$$ Chinatown Ice Cream $
Downtown/West Village 2398 Broadway (Map 9 B5) Factory (p160)
Caribbean Upper West Side 65 Bayard Street (Map 2 E1)
Cosi (p160) $ Downtown/Chinatown
El Malecón II (p50) $ 55 Broad Street (Map 1 D4) Balthazar (p25) $$
764 Amsterdam Avenue Downtown/Lower Manhattan 80 Spring Street (Map 3 D5) Cones (p36) $
(9 B3) Downtown/SoHo 272 Bleecker Street (3 C3)
Upper West Side Dean & DeLuca (pp13, 65) $ Downtown/West Village
560 Broadway (Map 3 D4) Chanterelle (p38) $$$
Chinese Downtown/SoHo 2 Harrison Street (Map 1 C1) Indian
www.chanterellenyc.com
66 (p24) $$$ Pret a Manger (p160) $ Downtown/Tribeca Tabla (p40) $$$
241 Church Street 60 Broad Street (Map 1 D4) 11 Madison Avenue (Map 6 E5)
(Map 1 D1) Downtown/Lower Manhattan L’Ecole (p26) $ Midtown/Flatiron
Downtown/Tribeca 462 Broadway (Map 3 D5)
Sandwich Planet (p43) $ Downtown/SoHo Tamarind (p41) $$
Fried Dumpling (p36) 534 9th Avenue (Map 5 C2) 41-43 East 22nd Street
99 Allen Street (Map 4 F4) Midtown/Hell’s Kitchen The Elephant (p27) $$ (Map 6 F5)
Downtown/Lower East Side 58 East 1st Street (Map 4 F4) Midtown/Flatiron
Zabar’s (p85) $ Downtown/East Village
HSF (p160) $$ 2245 Broadway (Map 7 B1) International
46 Bowery (Map 2 E1) Upper West Side LouLou (p53) $$
Downtown/Chinatown 222 DeKalb Avenue (Map 13 C3) Biltmore Room (p40) $$$
Eastern European Brooklyn/Fort Greene 290 8th Avenue (Map 5 C5)
Golden Unicorn (p25) $ Midtown/Chelsea
18 East Broadway Café Arbat (p166) $ Mercer Kitchen (p25) $$
(Map 2 F1) 306 Brighton Beach Avenue 99 Prince Street (Map 3 D4) Red Cat (p39) $$
Downtown/Chinatown Brooklyn/Coney Island Downtown/SoHo 227 10th Avenue (Map 5 B5)
Midtown/Chelsea
Grand Sichuan $ Café Glechik (p166) $ Pastis (p161)
International (p39) 3159 Coney Island Avenue 9 9th Avenue (Map 3 A2) The River Café (p52) $$$
229 9th Avenue (Map 5 C5) Brooklyn/Coney Island 212 929 4844 1 Water Street (Map 13 A3)
Midtown/Chelsea www.pastisny.com Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights
European Downtown/Meatpacking
Great NY Noodle Town (p160) $ District Town (p46) $$$
281/2 Bowery at Bayard Street Artisanal (p42) $$ Chambers Hotel, 15 West 56th
(Map 2 E1) 2 Park Avenue (Map 6 F4) Le Tableau (p29) $$ Street (Map 8 E5)
Downtown/Chinatown Midtown/Gramercy 511 East 5th Street (Map 4 F3) Midtown/Theater District
Downtown/East Village
Peking Duck House (p25) $$ Blue Ribbon Italian
28 Mott Street Bakery (p33) $–$$$ Tartine (p38) $
(Map 2 E1) 33 Downing Street (Map 3 C4) 253 West 11th Street Acappella (p24) $$$
Downtown/Chinatown Downtown/West Village (Map 3 B2) 1 Hudson Street
Downtown/West Village (Map 1 C2)
Cuban Florent (pp38 & 161) $$ Downtown/Tribeca
69 Gansevoort Street (Map 3 A2) Greek
Cafe Habana (p27) $ Downtown/Meatpacking District Acqua Pazza (p45) $$$
17 Prince Street Pylos (p30) $$ 36 West 52nd Street
(Map 4 E4) Four Seasons (p38) $$$ 128 East 7th Street (Map 4 F3) (Map 8 E5)
Downtown/Nolita 99 East 52nd Street (Map 7 D5) Downtown/East Village Midtown/Theater District

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 221
Index by Type
Geisha (p46) $$$ Yaffa Cafe (p30) $ South African
Restaurants 33 East 61st Street (Map 8 E4) 97 St. Mark’s Place (Map 4 F3)
Upper East Side Downtown/East Village i-Shebeen Madiba (p54) $$
Italian continued 195 DeKalb Avenue (Map 13 C3)
Genki Sushi (p44) $ North African Brooklyn/Fort Greene
Al Di La (p53) $$ 9 East 46th Street (Map 6 E1)
248 5th Avenue (Map 13 C4) Midtown/Theater District Cafe Gitane (p27) $ South American
Brooklyn/Park Slope 242 Mott Street (Map 4 E4)
Nobu (p38) $$$ Downtown/Nolita Churrascaria
Babbo (p34) $$$ 105 Hudson Street (Map 1 C2) Plataforma (p44) $$$
110 Waverly Place (Map 3 C3) 212 219 0500 Le Souk (p29) $$ 316 West 49th Street (Map 5 C1)
Downtown/West Village www.myriadrestaurant 47 Avenue B (Map 4 G3) Midtown/Theater District
group.com Downtown/East Village
Bamonte’s (p55) $$ Downtown/Tribeca Spanish
32 Withers Street (Map 13 C1) Pizzerias
Brooklyn/Williamsburg Sobaya (p32) $/$$ Bolo (p40) $$$
229 East 9th Street (Map 4 E2) Anna Maria’s (p165) $ 23 East 22nd Street
Convivium Osteria (p53) $$ Downtown/East Village 179 Bedford Avenue (Map 6 E5)
68 5th Avenue (Map 13 C4) 718 559 4550 (Map 13 C2) Midtown/Flatiron
Brooklyn/Park Slope Sumile (p38) $$$ Brooklyn/Williamsburg
154 West 13th Street (Map 3 C2) Swedish
‘inoteca (p28) $$ Downtown/West Village DiFara Pizzeria (p54) $
98 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4) 1424 Avenue J Aquavit (p45) $$$
Downtown/Lower East Side Sushi of Gari (p49) $$$ Brooklyn/Midwood 65 East 55th Street
402 East 78th Street (Map 8 G1) (Map 8 F5)
i Trulli (p42) $$$ Upper East Side Joe’s Pizza (p19) $ Midtown/Theater District
122 East 27th Street 233 Bleecker Street
(Map 6 F4) Tomoe Sushi (p33) $$ 212 366 1182 (Map 3 C4) Tea Rooms
Midtown/Gramercy 172 Thompson Street (Map 3 C4) Downtown/West Village
Downtown/SoHo See also Bakeries, Cafés, and
Mezzaluna (p47) $$ John’s of Bleecker Delis
1295 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F2) Korean Street (p35) $
Upper East Side 278 Bleecker Street Lady Mendl’s Tea Room (p31)
Cho Dang Gol (p43) $ (Map 3 C3) 56 Irving Place
Noodle Pudding (p51) $$ 55 West 35th Street (Map 6 E3) Downtown/West Village (Map 4 E1)
38 Henry Street (Map 13 A3) Midtown/Murray Hill www.innatirving.com
Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights Polish Midtown/Gramercy
Mandoo Bar (p42) $
Otto Enoteca and $$ 2 West 32nd Street (Map 6 E4) S & B Polish Restaurant (p165) Palm Court Tea Room (p31)
Pizzeria (p34) Midtown/Flatiron 194 Bedford Avenue Plaza Hotel, 768 5th Avenue
1 5th Avenue (Map 3 D3) 718 963 1536 (Map 13 C2) (Map 8 E4)
Downtown/West Village Mexican Brooklyn/Williamsburg Midtown/Theater District

Pepe Rosso’s (p36) Dos Caminos (p41) $$ Theresa’s (p164) Rotunda at the Pierre (p174)
149 Sullivan Street 373 Park Ave. South (Map 6 F5) 80 Montague Street The Pierre Hotel, 2 East 61st
(Map 3 C4) Midtown/Gramercy 718 797 3996 (Map 13 A4) Street (Map 8 E4)
Downtown/West Village Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights Upper East Side
Itzocan Café (p162)
Via Quadronno (p31) 438 East 9th Street (Map 4 F2) Seafood Tea & Sympathy (p31)
25 East 73rd Street (Map 8 F2) Downtown/East Village 108 Greenwich Avenue
www.viaquadronno.com Atlantic Grill (p48) $$ (Map 3 C2)
Upper East Side Mi Nidito (p43) $$ 1341 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F1) www.teaandsympathy
852 8th Avenue (Map 5 C1) Upper East Side newyork.com
Japanese Midtown/Theater District Downtown/West Village
Mary’s Fish Camp (p37) $$
Blue Ribbon Sushi (p33) $$ La Palapa Rockola (p34) $$ 64 Charles Street Teany (p70)
119 Sullivan Street 359 6th Avenue (Map 3 C3) (Map 3 B3) 90 Rivington Street
(Map 3 C4) Downtown/West Village Downtown/West Village (Map 4 F4)
Downtown/SoHo Downtown/Lower East Side
Middle Eastern Mermaid Inn (p31) $$
Cube 63 (p28) $$ 96 2nd Avenue Wild Lily Tea Room (p171)
63 Clinton Street Mamoun’s (p36) (Map 4 E3) 511-a West 22nd Street
(Map 4 G4) 119 MacDougal St. (Map 3 C3) Downtown/East Village (Map 5 B5)
Downtown/Lower East Side Downtown/West Village Midtown/Chelsea

222 www.enewyork.dk.com
Restaurants – Shopping
Thai Takashimaya (p79) INA (p67)
Shopping 693 5th Avenue (Map 8 E5) 21 Prince Street (Map 4 E4)
The Elephant (p27) $$ Midtown/Theater District Downtown/Little Italy
58 East 1st Street Books
(Map 4 F4) Fashion Intermix (p84)
Downtown/East Village Heights Books (p164) 210 Columbus Avenue
109 Montague Street Alexander McQueen (p161) (Map 7 C3)
Joya (p52) $ (Map 13 A4) 417 West 14th Street Upper West Side
215 Court Street Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights (Map 3 A2)
(Map 13 B4) www.alexandermcqueen.com Isa (p89)
Brooklyn/Carroll Gardens Spoonbill & Sugartown Downtown/Meatpacking 88 North 6th Street (Map 13 B2)
Booksellers (pp88, 165) District Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Planet Thailand (p55) $ 218 Bedford Avenue
133 North 7th Street (Map 13 B2) Banana Republic (p70) J. Crew (p70)
(Map 13 B2) Brooklyn/Williamsburg 1136 Madison Avenue between 347 Madison Ave. (Map 6 E3)
Brooklyn/Williamsburg 84th & 85th Streets (Map 10 E5) 212 949 0570
The Strand (p77) 212 570 2465 www.jcrew.com
Turkish 828 Broadway (Map 3 D2) www.bananarepublic.com Midtown/Theater District
Downtown/East Village Upper East Side/Yorkville
Bereket (p27) $ Keiko (p61)
187 East Houston Street Department Stores Barney’s CO-OP (p62) 62 Greene Street (Map 3 D5)
(Map 4 F4) 116 Wooster Street (Map 3 D4) Downtown/SoHo
Downtown/Lower East Side Barney’s New York (p82) Downtown/SoHo
660 Madison Avenue Kirna Zabete (p63)
Pasha (p50) $$ (Map 8 E4) Brooklyn Industries (p165) 96 Greene Street (Map 3 D4)
70 West 71st Street Upper East Side 162 Bedford Ave. (Map 13 C2) Downtown/SoHo
(Map 7 C2 www.brooklynindustries.com
Upper West Side Bergdorf Goodman (p81) Brooklyn/Williamsburg Marc by Marc Jacobs (p72)
754 5th Avenue (Map 8 E4) 403–405 Bleecker Street
Ukrainian Midtown/Theater District Butter (p87) (Map 3 B4)
407 Atlantic Avenue (Map 13 B4) Downtown/West Village
Veselka (p19) $ Bloomingdale’s (p76) Brooklyn/Boerum Hill
144 2nd Avenue 1000 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F4) Marc Jacobs (p64)
(Map 4 E2) 212 705 2000 Calypso (p67) 163 Mercer Street
Downtown/East Village www.bloomingdales.com 280 Mott Street (Map 4 E4) (Map 3 D4)
Upper East Side Downtown/Nolita Downtown/West Village
Vegetarian
Henri Bendel (p76) Century 21 (p60) Mayle (p68)
Angelica Kitchen (p32) $ 712 5th Avenue at 56th Street 22 Cortlandt Street (Map 1 D3) 242 Elizabeth Street
300 East 12th Street (Map 8 E5) Downtown/Lower Manhattan (Map 4 E4)
(Map 4 E2) 212 247 1100 Downtown/Little Italy
Downtown/East Village Midtown/Theater District Costume National (p63)
108 Wooster Street (Map 3 D4) Metaphors (p165)
Bliss Café (p165) Jeffrey (pp74 & 161) Downtown/SoHo 195 Bedford Avenue
191 Bedford Avenue 449 West 14th Street (Map 3 A2) (Map 13 C2)
718 599 2547 (Map 13 C2) Downtown/Meatpacking Diane B (p83) Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Brooklyn/Williamsburg District 1414 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F2)
Upper East Side Mini Minimarket (p88)
Candle 79 (p48) $$ Macy’s (p76) 218 Bedford Avenue
154 East 79th Street 151 West 34th Street Gap (p70) (Map 13 B2)
(Map 8 F1) (Map 5 D3) 60 West 34th Street Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Upper East Side www.macys.com (Map 5 D3)
Midtown/Chelsea 212 760 1268 Miu Miu (p63)
NY Dosas (p37) $ www.gap.com 100 Prince Street (Map 3 D4)
West 4th Street & Sullivan Pearl River Mart (p61) Midtown/Chelsea Downtown/SoHo
Street (Map 3 C3) 477 Broadway (Map 3 D5)
Downtown/West Village Downtown/SoHo Helmut Lang (p62) Prada (p64)
80 Greene Street (Map 3 D5) 575 Broadway (Map 3 D4)
Vietnamese Saks 5th Avenue (p76) Downtown/SoHo Downtown/SoHo
611 5th Avenue
Bao (p29) $ (Map 6 E1) Hotel Venus by Sahil Sari Palace (p167)
111 Avenue C (Map 4 G3) 212 753 4000 Patricia Field (p60) 37–55 74th Street
Downtown/East Village www.saksfifthavenue.com 382 West Broadway (Map 3 D5) Queens/Jackson Heights
Midtown/Flatiron Downtown/SoHo

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 223
Index by Type
Dean & DeLuca (pp13, 65) Interiors Downtown/Meatpacking
Shopping 560 Broadway (Map 3 D4) District
Downtown/SoHo ABC Carpet and Home (p75)
Fashion continued 888 Broadway (Map 3 D1) Nest (p88)
Dylan’s Candy Bar (p82) Midtown/Gramercy 396A 7th Avenue (Map 13 C5)
Scoop (p65) 1011 3rd Avenue (Map 8 F4) Brooklyn/Park Slope
532 Broadway (Map 3 D4) Upper East Side ABH Designs (p84)
Downtown/SoHo 401 East 76th Street (Map 8 H1) Spacial (p89)
Egidio Pastry Shop (p167) Upper East Side 199 Bedford Avenue
Searle (p84) 622 East 18th Street (Map 13 B2)
1124 Madison Avenue The Bronx The Apartment (p66) Brooklyn/Williamsburg
(Map 10 E5) 101 Crosby Street (Map 3 D4)
Upper East Side Magnolia Bakery (p71) Downtown/Little Italy Two Jakes (p91)
401 Bleeker Street (Map 3 B3) 320 Wythe Avenue (Map 13 B2)
Shop (p70) Downtown/West Village Astroturf (p91) Brooklyn/Williamsburg
105 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) 290 Smith Street (Map 13 B4)
Downtown/Lower East Side M & I International Food Brooklyn/Boerum Hill Vitra (p161)
Market (p166) 29 9th Avenue (Map 3 A2)
Spacial (p89) 249 Brighton Beach Avenue Bark (p87) www.vitra.com
199 Bedford Avenue Brooklyn/Coney Island 495 Atlantic Avenue (Map 13 B4) Downtown/Meatpacking
(Map 13 B2) Brooklyn/Boerum Hill District
Brooklyn/Williamsburg Patel Brothers Market (p167)
27–37 74th Street La Cafetiere (p74) Xukuma (p86)
Stella McCartney (p73) Queens/Jackson Heights 160 Ninth Avenue (Map 3 A1) 183 Lenox Avenue (11 D4)
429 West 14th Street (Map 3 A2) Midtown/Chelsea Above Central Park/Harlem
Downtown/Meatpacking Teany (p70)
District 90 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4) Clio (p63) Lingerie
Downtown/Lower East Side 92 Thompson Street (Map 3 C4)
TG-170 (p69) Downtown/SoHo Bra Smyth (p82)
170 Ludlow Street (Map 4 F4) Zabar’s (p85) 905 Madison Avenue
Downtown/Lower East Side 2245 Broadway (Map 7 B1) Demolition Depot (p86) (Map 8 E2)
Upper West Side 216 East 125th Street Upper East Side
Urban Outfitters (p70) (Map 12 G3)
2081 Broadway at 72nd Street Health & Beauty Above Central Park/Harlem Le Corset by Selima (p62)
(Map 7 B2) 80 Thompson Street (Map 3 C5)
212 579 3912 Carapan Urban Spa Felissimo (p80) Downtown/SoHo
www.urbanoutfitters.com and Store (p75) 10 West 56th Street (Map 8 E5)
Upper West Side 5 West 16th Street (Map 3 C1) Midtown/Theater District La Perla (p82)
Midtown/Flatiron 803 Madison Avenue
Xukuma (p86) Hable Construction (p68) (Map 8 E3)
183 Lenox Avenue (11 D4) Clyde’s (p83) 230 Elizabeth Street (Map 4 E4) Upper East Side
Above Central Park/Harlem 926 Madison Avenue Downtown/Little Italy
(Map 8 E2) Markets
Food Upper East Side Karkula Gallery (p161)
68 Gansevoort St. (Map 3 A2) Chelsea Flea Market (p162)
Bedford Cheese Shop (p165) Fresh (p71) www.karkula.com 24th Street & 6th Avenue
218 Bedford Avenue 388 Bleecker Street (Map 3 B3) Downtown/Meatpacking (Map 5 D5)
718 599 7588 (Map 13 C2) Downtown/West Village District Midtown/Chelsea
Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Kiehl’s (p77) Loom (p87) Green Market (p160)
Bonsignour (p72) 109 3rd Avenue (Map 4 E2) 115 7th Avenue (Map 13 C4) Bowling Green (Map 1 D4)
35 Jane Street (Map 3 B2) Downtown/East Village Brooklyn/Park Slope Downtown/Lower Manhattan
Downtown/Meatpacking
District LAFCO (p69) Moon River Chattel (p91) Union Square
285 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E4) 62 Grand Street (Map 13 B2) Green Market (p162)
Borgatti’s Ravioli & Downtown/Nolita Brooklyn/Williamsburg Union Square (Map 3 D1)
Noodle Company (p167) Midtown/Gramercy
632 East 187th Street Rescue Nail Spa (p66) Moss (p64)
The Bronx 21 Cleveland Place (Map 4 E5) 146 Greene Street (Map 3 D4) Music
Downtown/Little Italy Downtown/SoHo
Brooklyn Lager Brewery (p165) Earwax (p90)
79 North 11th St. (Map 13 C2) SCO (p67) MXYPLYZYK (p73) 218 Bedford Avenue
www.brooklynbrewery.com 584 Broadway (Map 3 D4) 125 Greenwich Avenue (Map 13 B2)
Brooklyn/Williamsburg Downtown/SoHo (Map 3 B2) Brooklyn/Williamsburg

224 For links to shops across New York, check www.enewyork.dk.com


Shopping – Art & Architecture
Fat Beats (p71) Paragon Sporting Goods (p76) Leo Koenig (p96) Prospect Park West (p107)
406 6th Avenue (Map 3 C2) 867 Broadway (Map 3 D1) 249 Centre Street (Map 2 E2) between Union & 15th Streets
Downtown/West Village Midtown/Gramercy 212 334 9255 (Map 13 C5)
Downtown/Chinatown Brooklyn/Park Slope
Jazz Record Center (p78) Super Runners (p85)
236 West 26th Street, 360 Amsterdam Avenue Mary Boone (p96) U.S. Custom House (p94)
8th Floor (Map 5 C5) (Map 7 B1) 541 West 24th Street 1 Bowling Green
Midtown/Chelsea Upper West Side (Map 5 B5) (Map 1 D5)
www.maryboone.com Downtown/Lower Manhattan
St. Mark’s Sounds (p78) Stationery Midtown/Chelsea
16 St. Mark’s Place (Map 4 E3) Woolworth Building (p96)
Downtown/East Village Kate’s Paperie (p66) Momenta Art (p108) 233 Broadway at Barclay Street
561 Broadway (Map 3 D4) 72 Berry Street (Map 1 D2)
Subterranean Records (p71) Downtown/SoHo (Map 13 B1) Downtown/Lower Manhattan
5 Cornelia Street (Map 3 C3) www.momentaart.org
Downtown/West Village Thrift Stores Brooklyn/Williamsburg Installations
Shoes & Accessories Beacon’s Closet (p89) Noguchi Sculpture Broken Kilometer (p96)
88 North 11th Street Museum (p177) 393 West Broadway
ALife Rivington Club (p69) (Map 13 B1) 32–37 Vernon Boulevard (Map 3 D5)
158 Rivington Street (Map 4 G4) Brooklyn/Williamsburg Queens/Long Island City Downtown/SoHo
Downtown/Lower East Side
Housing Works Pace Wildenstein (p96) Earth Room (p96)
Bond 07 By Selima (p68) Thrift Shop (p85) 534 West 25th Street 141 Wooster Street
7 Bond Street (Map 3 D3) 306 Columbus Avenue (Map 5 B5) (Map 3 D4)
Downtown/Nolita (Map 7 C2) www.pacewildenstein.com Downtown/SoHo
Upper West Side Midtown/Chelsea
Christian Louboutin (p83) Modern Architecture
941 Madison Avenue (Map 8 E2) Pierogi 2000 (p108)
Upper East Side 177 North 9th Street See also Museums:
Art & (Map 13 B1) Guggenheim and The Whitney
Flight 001 (p72) www.pierogi2000.com
96 Greenwich Ave. (Map 3 B2) Architecture Brooklyn/Williamsburg Chanin Building (p99)
Downtown/West Village 122 East 42nd Street at
Art Galleries P.S.1 (p109) Lexington Avenue
Jimmy Choo (p78) 22–5 Jackson Avenue (Map 6 F2)
645 5th Avenue (Map 8 E5) Asia Society (p103) www.ps1.org Midtown/Murray Hill
Midtown/Theater District 725 Park Avenue at 70th Street Queens
(Map 8 F2) Chrysler Building (p99)
Kate Spade Travel (p60) Upper East Side Williamsburg Art & Historical 405 Lexington Avenue
59 Thompson Street (Map 3 C5) Center (p108) (Map 6 F2)
Downtown/SoHo Deitch Projects (p96) 135 Broadway at Bedford Midtown/Murray Hill
18 Wooster Street Avenue (Map 13 B2)
Liliblue (p83) (Map 3 D5) 718 486 7372 Daily News Building (p99)
955 Madison Avenue (Map 8 E2) 212 941 9475 www.wahcenter.org 220 East 42nd Street
Upper East Side Downtown/SoHo Brooklyn/|Williamsburg (Map 6 G2)
Midtown/Murray Hill
Manolo Blahnik (p78) Forbes Magazine Gallery (p98) Historic Buildings
31 West 54th Street (Map 8 E5) 60 5th Avenue at West 12th General Electric Building (p99)
Midtown/Theater District Street (Map 3 D2) Block Beautiful (p98) 570 Lexington Avenue at 51st
Downtown/West Village East 19th Street, between Street (Map 6 F1)
Niketown (p80) Irving Place & 3rd Avenue Midtown/Murray Hill
6 East 57th Street (Map 8 E5) Gagosian (p96) (Map 4 E1)
Midtown/Theater District 555 West 24th Street Midtown/Gramercy Ground Zero (p95)
(Map 5 B5) (Map 1 C3)
Rafe (p68) www.gagosian.com Federal Hall (p160) Downtown/Lower Manhattan
1 Bleecker Street (Map 4 E4) Midtown/Chelsea 26 Wall Street (Map 1 D4)
Downtown/Nolita Downtown/Lower Manhattan Williamsburg Savings Bank
International Center of Building (p109)
Sporting Goods Photography (p100) Jefferson Market 1 Hanson Place, corner of
1133 Avenue of the Americas Courthouse (p98) Flatbush & Atlantic Avenues
Blades Board & Skate (p84) (Map 5 D2) 425 6th Avenue (Map 13 C4)
120 West 72nd St. (Map 7 B2) Midtown/Theater District (Map 3 C2) Brooklyn/Boerum Hill
Upper West Side Downtown/West Village

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 225
Index by Type
Museum at the Fashion Mahayana Buddhist Apollo Theater (p128)
Art & Institute of Technology (p98) Temple (p160) 253 West 125th Street
7th Avenue at 27th Street 133 Canal Street (Map 2 E1) (Map 11 D3)
Architecture (Map 5 D4) Downtown/Chinatown Above Central Park/Harlem
Midtown/Chelsea
Museums St. Paul’s Chapel (p94) City Center (p123)
Museum of Chinese in the 209 Broadway between 131 West 55th Street (Map 7 D5)
Brooklyn Historical Americas (p160) Fulton & Vesey Streets Midtown/Theater District
Society (p109) 70 Mulberry Street, 2nd Floor (Map 1 D3)
128 Pierrepont Street (Map 2 E1) Downtown/Lower Manhattan The Florence Gould Hall (p124)
(Map 2 H5) 212 619 4785 55 East 59th Street (Map 8 F4)
Brooklyn/Boerum Hill Downtown/Chinatown Walking Tours Upper East Side

Brooklyn Museum Museum of Modern Art (p101) Big Apple Jazz Tours (p163) The Kitchen (p120)
of Art (p108) 11 West 53rd Street (Map 8 E5) www.bigapplejazz.com 512 West 19th Street (Map 3 A1)
200 Eastern Parkway (13 D4) Midtown/Theater District 718 606 8442 Midtown/Chelsea
Brooklyn/Crown Heights Above Central Park/Harlem
Museum of Television and Makor (p127)
The Cloisters (p106) Radio (p103) Harlem Spirituals (p163) 35 West 67th Street (Map 7 C3)
Fort Tryon Park (off map) 25 West 52nd Street www.harlemspirituals.com Upper West Side
Above Central Park/Fort Tryon (Map 8 E5) 212 391 0900
& Inwood Midtown/Theater District Above Central Park/Harlem P.S.122 (p120)
150 1st Avenue (Map 4 F2)
Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum of the City Radical Walking Tours (p163) Downtown/East Village
Museum (p105) of New York (p105) 718 492 0069
2 East 91st Street 1250 5th Avenue at East 103rd Above Central Park/Harlem Symphony Space (p127)
(Map 10 E4) Street (Map 10 E2) 2537 Broadway (Map 9 B3)
Upper East Side/Yorkville Upper East Side Upper West Side

Frick Collection (p102) Rose Museum at Performance Comedy


1 East 70th Street (Map 8 E2) Carnegie Hall (p100)
Upper East Side 154 West 57th Street, 2nd Floor Ballrooms The Comedy Cellar (p115)
(Map 7 D5) 117 MacDougal Street
Guggenheim Museum (p104) Midtown/Theater District Rainbow Room (p123) (Map 3 C3)
1071 5th Avenue at 89th Street 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Downtown/West Village
(Map 10 E4) Skyscraper Museum (p95) 65th Floor (Map 6 E1)
Upper East Side/Yorkville 39 Battery Place (Map 1 D5) Midtown/Theater District The Comic Strip (p125)
Downtown/Lower Manhattan 1568 2nd Avenue
The Jewish Museum (p105) Swing 46 (p123) (Map 8 G1)
1109 5th Avenue at 92nd Studio Museum 349 West 46th Street Upper East Side
Street (Map 10 E4) in Harlem (p107) (Map 5 C1)
Upper East Side/Yorkville 144 West 125th Street Midtown/Theater District Gotham Comedy Club (p121)
(Map 11 D3) 34 West 22nd Street
Lower East Side Tenement Above Central Park/Harlem Cabaret (Map 6 E5)
Museum (p97) Midtown/Flatiron
90 Orchard Street Whitney Museum of Don’t Tell Mama (p123)
(Map 4 F5) American Art (p101) 343 West 46th Street Stand-Up NY (p127)
Downtown/Lower East Side 945 Madison Avenue (Map 5 C1) 236 West 78th Street
(Map 8 E2) Midtown/Theater District (Map 7 B2)
Merchant’s House Upper East Side Upper West Side
Museum (p97) Duplex (p116)
29 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Whitney Museum of American 61 Christopher Street Upright Citizen’s
Downtown/Nolita Art at Altria (p100) (Map 3 B3) Brigade (p121)
120 Park Avenue at 42nd Downtown/West Village 307 West 26th Street (Map 5 C5)
Metropolitan Museum Street (Map 6 F2) Midtown/Chelsea
of Art (p103) Midtown/Murray Hill Combined Arts
1000 5th Avenue (Map 8 E1) Concert Halls
Upper East Side Religious Buildings 92nd Street Y (p125)
1395 Lexington Avenue See also Music Venues
El Museo del Barrio (p107) Cathedral Church of St. John (Map 10 F4)
1230 5th Avenue at 104th the Divine (p174) Upper East Side/Yorkville Barge Music (p130)
Street (Map 10 E2) 1047 Amsterdam Avenue at Fulton Ferry Landing (Map 2 G3)
Upper East Side/Spanish 112th Street (Map 9 B1) Brooklyn/Brooklyn Heights
Harlem Upper West Side

226 www.enewyork.dk.com
Art & Architecture – Bars & Clubs
Brooklyn Academy Lenox Lounge (p129) S.O.B.’s (p114) Shea Stadium (p131)
of Music (p129) 288 Lenox Avenue between 204 Varick Street (Map 3 C4) 123 Roosevelt Avenue,
30 Lafayette Avenue 124th & 125th Streets Downtown/SoHo Flushing (7 IRT Flushing Line
(Map 13 C4) (Map 11 D3) Subway from Times Sq., 5th
Brooklyn/Fort Greene Above Central Park/Harlem The Soul Cafe (p122) Ave., and Grand Central)
444 West 42nd St. (Map 5 B2) www.mets.com
Carnegie Hall (p125) Smoke (p127) Midtown/Hell’s Kitchen Queens/Flushing Meadows
881 7th Avenue at 57th Street 2751 Broadway (Map 9 B2)
(Map 7 D5) Upper West Side Tonic (p117) Yankee Stadium (p131)
Midtown/Theater District 107 Norfolk Street (Map 4 G4) 161st Street & River Avenue
Village Vanguard (p116) Downtown/Lower East Side (4, B, D subway trains from
Lincoln Center for the 178 7th Avenue South Manhattan), www.yankees.com
Performing Arts (p126) (Map 3 B2) Warsaw (p130) The Bronx
Straddling Broadway & Downtown/West Village 261 Driggs Avenue (Map 13 C1)
Amsterdam between 62nd & Brooklyn/Greenpoint Theater
66th Streets (Map 7 B3) Music Venues
Upper West Side Performing Arts The Public Theater (p119)
Apollo Theater (p128) 425 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E3)
Merkin Concert Hall (p125) 253 West 125th Street Brooklyn Academy Downtown/Nolita
129 West 67th Street (Map 11 D3) of Music (p129)
(Map 7 B3) Above Central Park/Harlem 30 Lafayette Avenue Roundabout Theatre Company
Upper West Side (Map 13 C4) at the American Airlines
Arlene’s Grocery (p117) Brooklyn/Fort Green Theatre (p122)
New Jersey Performing Arts 95 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) 227 West 42nd Street
Center (p131) Downtown/Lower East Side Lincoln Center for the (Map 5 D2)
One Center Street Performing Arts (p126) Midtown/Theater District
New Jersey/Newark Bowery Ballroom (p117) Straddling Broadway &
6 Delancey Street (Map 4 E5) Amsterdam between 62nd & TV Studios
Dance Downtown/Lower East Side 66th Streets (Map 7 B3)
Upper West Side Ed Sullivan Theater (p124)
The Joyce Theater (p120) CBGB (p118) 1697 Broadway,
175 8th Avenue (Map 3 B1) 315 Bowery (Map 4 E4) New Jersey Performing at 52nd Street (Map 7 D5)
Midtown/Chelsea Downtown/East Village Arts Center (p131) Midtown/Theater District
1 Center Street, Newark
Film Theaters C-Note (p119) New Jersey NBC Studios (p124)
157 Avenue C (Map 4 G2) Between 5th Avenue & 7th
Film Forum (p114) Downtown/East Village Poetry Avenue from 47th to 51st
209 West Houston Street Streets (Map 6 E1)
(Map 3 C4) Galapagos (p157) Bowery Poetry Club (p118) Midtown/Theater District
Downtown/SoHo 70 North 6th Street 308 Bowery (Map 4 E4)
(Map 13 B2) Downtown/East Village
Landmark’s Sunshine Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Theater (p118) Cornelia Street Cafe (p115) Bars & Clubs
143 East Houston Street Hammerstein Ballroom (p121) 29 Cornelia Street (Map 3 C3)
(Map 4 F4) 311 West 34th Street (Map 5 C3) Downtown/West Village Ale Houses
Downtown/East Village Midtown/Chelsea
Nuyorican Poets Cafe (p119) Blind Tiger Ale House (p147)
Jazz & Blues Kavehaz (p121) 236 East 3rd Street (Map 4 G3) 518 Hudson Street
37 West 26th Street Downtown/East Village (Map 3 B3)
55 Bar (p116) (Map 6 E5) Downtown/West Village
55 Christopher Street Midtown/Flatiron Sports Arenas
(Map 3 C3) The Ginger Man (p151)
Downtown/West Village Knitting Factory (p114) Giants Stadium (p131) 11 East 36th Street (Map 6 E3)
74 Leonard Street (Map 1 D1) 50 State Route 120, Midtown/Murray Hill
B.B. King Blues Club (p122) Downtown/Tribeca East Rutherford (special
237 West 42nd Street buses from the Port Authority McSorley’s Old
(Map 5 C2) Mercury Lounge (p116) Terminal at 8th Ave. & 41st St.) Ale House (p142)
Midtown/Theater District 217 East Houston Street www.giants.com 15 East 7th Street (Map 4 E3)
(Map 4 F4) New Jersey Downtown/East Village
Blue Note (p115) Downtown/Lower East Side
131 West 3rd Street Madison Square Spuyten Duyvil (p156)
(Map 3 C3) Rodeo Bar (p122) Garden (pp17 & 131) 359 Metropolitan Ave. (13 C2)
Downtown/West Village 375 3rd Avenue (Map 6 F5) Map 6 E5 Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Midtown/Gramercy Midtown/Flatiron

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 227
Index by Type
Campbell Apartment (p151) Parkside Lounge (p141) Trash (p156)
Bars & Clubs 15 Vanderbilt Ave., Southwest 317 East Houston Street 256 Grand Street (Map 13 C2)
Balcony, Grand Central (Map 4 G4) Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Ale Houses continued Terminal (Map 6 F2) Downtown/East Village
Midtown/Murray Hill Welcome to the
Swift (p142) Plunge Bar (p155) Johnson’s (p140)
34 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Chez es Saada (p141) 18 9th Avenue (Map 3 A1) 123 Rivington Street (Map 4 F4)
Downtown/East Village 42 East 1st Street (Map 4 F4) Midtown/Chelsea Downtown/Lower East Side
Downtown/East Village
Vol de Nuit (p146) Pussycat Lounge (p136) Winnie’s (p136)
148 West 4th Street (Map 3 C3) Chumley’s (p146) 96 Greenwich Street 104 Bayard Street (Map 2 E1)
Downtown/West Village 86 Bedford Street (Map 3 B3) (Map 1 D4) Downtown/Chinatown
Downtown/West Village Downtown/Lower Manhattan
White Horse Tavern (p147) Clubs
567 Hudson Street (Map 3 B3) Cubbyhole (p148) Rhône (p148)
Downtown/West Village 281 West 12th Street (Map 3 B2) 63 Gansevoort Street (Map 3 A2) Avalon (p149)
Downtown/Meatpacking Downtown/Meatpacking 47 West 20th Street (Map 3 C1)
Bars District District Midtown/Chelsea

2A (p141) Galapagos (p157) Ruby’s (p155) Black Betty (p156)


25 Avenue A (Map 4 F3) 70 North 6th Street (Map 13 B2) Coney Island Boardwalk 366 Metropolitan Avenue at
Downtown/East Village Brooklyn/Williamsburg (F, D, Q subway trains to Coney Havermeyer Street (Map 13 C2)
Island/Stillwell Avenue) Brooklyn/Williamsburg
Antarctica (p136) Glass (p150) Brooklyn
287 Hudson Street (Map 3 C5) 287 10th Avenue (Map 5 B5) Cielo (p148)
Downtown/SoHo Midtown/Chelsea Rudy’s Bar & Grill (p148) 18 Little West 12th Street
627 9th Avenue (Map 3 A2)
Arlene’s Grocery (p117) Gowanus Yacht Club (p155) (Map 5 C1) Downtown/Meatpacking
95 Stanton Street (Map 4 F4) 323 Smith Street (Map 13 B4) Midtown/Hell’s Kitchen District
Downtown/Lower East Side Brooklyn/Boerum Hill
Rue B (p145) Copacabana (p151)
Baraonda (p153) Great Lakes (p155) 188 Avenue B (Map 4 G2) 560 West 34th Street (Map 5 B3)
1439 2nd Avenue (Map 8 G2) 284 5th Avenue (Map 13 C4) Downtown/East Village Midtown/Chelsea
Upper East Side Brooklyn/Park Slope
Russian Vodka Room (p153) Eugene (p149)
Barramundi (p140) Hiro (p150) 265 West 52nd Street 27 West 24th Street (Map 6 E5)
67 Clinton Street (Map 4 F4) 366 West 17th Street (Map 3 A1) (Map 7 C5) Midtown/Flatiron
Downtown/Lower East Side Midtown/Chelsea Midtown/Theater District
Jimmy’s Uptown (p154)
Bar Veloce (p144) KGB (p142) Serena (p149) 2207 Adam Clayton Powell, Jr.
175 2nd Avenue (Map 4 E2) 85 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) Chelsea Hotel, 222 West 23rd Blvd. (Map 11 D3)
Downtown/East Village Downtown/East Village Street (Map 5 C5) Above Central Park/Harlem
Midtown/Chelsea
B-Bar & Grill (p143) Korova Milk Bar (p145) Roxy (p149)
40 East 4th Street (Map 4 E3) 200 Avenue A (Map 4 F2) Single Room Occupancy (p152) 515 West 18th Street
Downtown/Nolita Downtown/East Village 360 West 53rd Street (Map 7 C5) (Map 3 A1)
Midtown/Theater District Midtown/Chelsea
Boat Basin Café (p155) Library Bar (p148)
West 79th St. at Henry Hudson Hudson Hotel, 356 West 58th Sky Bar (p155) Spirit (p150)
Parkway (Map 7 A1) Street (Map 7 B4) 17 West 32nd Street (Map 6 E4) 530 West 27th Street
Upper West Side Upper West Side Midtown/Flatiron (Map 5 B4)
Midtown/Chelsea
Bungalow 8 (p150) Mica Bar (p148) Slipper Room (p141)
515 West 27th Street (Map 5 B4) 252 East 51st Street (Map 6 F1) 167 Orchard Street (Map 4 F4) Cocktail Lounges
Midtown/Chelsea Midtown/Turtle Bay Downtown/Lower East Side
Algonquin Hotel, Round Table
Buttermilk Bar (p156) ñ (p138) Stonewall (p147) Room (p16)
577 5th Avenue (Map 13 C5) 33 Crosby Street (Map 3 D5) 53 Christopher Street (Map 3 B3) 59 West 44th Street (Map 6 E2)
Brooklyn/Park Slope Downtown/Little Italy Downtown/West Village Midtown/Theater District

Cabin Club at Pine Nevada Smith’s (p142) The View, Marriott Marquis Angel’s Share (p142)
Tree Lodge (p148) 74 3rd Avenue (Map 4 E2) Hotel (p155) 8 Stuyvesant Street (Map 4 E2)
326 East 35th St. (Map 6 G3) Downtown/East Village 1535 Broadway (Map 5 D1) Downtown/East Village
Midtown/Murray Hill Midtown/Theater District

228 Find more New York bars on www.enewyork.dk.com


Bars & Clubs – Hotels
Ava Lounge (p152) Lansky Lounge (p139) The Pierre (p189) Midtown/Chelsea
210 West 55th Street 104 Norfolk Street (Map 4 G4) 5th Avenue at 61st Street (Map
(Map 7 D5) Downtown/Lower East Side 8 E4) Melrose (p189)
Midtown/Theater District Upper East Side 140 East 63rd Street
Lotus (p144) (Map 8 F4)
Beauty Bar (p144) 409 West 14th Street Plaza (p183) Upper East Side
231 East 14th Street (Map 3 A2) 5th Avenue at Central Park
(Map 4 E2) Downtown/Meatpacking South (Map 8 E4) Royalton (p186)
Downtown/East Village District Midtown/Theater District 44 West 44th Street
(Map 6 E2)
Bemelmans Bar (p153) Sullivan Room (p146) Soho House New York (p184) Midtown/Theater District
Carlyle Hotel, 35 East 76th 218 Sullivan Street (Map 3 C3) 29–35 9th Avenue
Street (Map 8 E1) Downtown/West Village (Map 3 A2) SoHo Grand Hotel (p182)
Upper East Side Downtown/Meatpacking 310 West Broadway (Map 3 D5)
Uncle Ming’s (p146) District Downtown/SoHo
Lansky Lounge (p139) 225 Avenue B, 2nd Floor
104 Norfolk Street (Map 4 G4) (Map 4 G2) The Stanhope (p190) Cheap
Downtown/Lower East Side Downtown/East Village 995 5th Avenue at 81st Street
(Map 8 E1) Abingdon Guest House (p183)
Larry Lawrence (p156) Warsaw (p130) Upper East Side 13 8th Avenue (Map 3 B2)
295 Grand Street (Map 13 C2) 261 Driggs Avenue (Map 13 C1) Downtown/Meatpacking
Brooklyn/Williamsburg Brooklyn/Greenpoint St. Regis (p186) District
2 East 55th Street (Map 8 E5)
Métrazur (p152) Midtown/Theater District Bevy’s SoHo Loft (p182)
East Balcony, Grand Central 70 Mercer Street (Map 3 D5)
Terminal (Map 6 F2) Hotels Tribeca Grand Hotel (p183) Downtown/SoHo
Midtown/Murray Hill 2 Avenue of the Americas
Expensive (Map 3 C5) Chelsea Inn (p185)
Pravda (p139) Downtown/SoHo 46 West 17th Street (Map 3 C1)
281 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E4) 60 Thompson (p182) Midtown/Flatiron
Downtown/Nolita 60 Thompson Street Moderate
(Map 3 C5) Chelsea Lodge (p185)
Temple Bar (p138) Downtown/SoHo 1871 House (p188) 318 West 20th Street
332 Lafayette Street (Map 4 E4) 130 East 62nd Street (Map 8 (Map 3 B1)
Downtown/Nolita Carlyle (p183) F4) Midtown/Chelsea
Madison Avenue at 76th Street Upper East Side
THOM’s Bar (p137) Upper East Side The Harlem
60 Thompson Street Bed & Breakfast Flophouse (p190)
(Map 3 C5) Four Seasons (p188) on the Park (p191) 242 West 123rd Street
Downtown/SoHo 57 East 57th Street (Map 8 E5) 113 Prospect Park West (Map 11 D4)
Midtown/Theater District (Map 13 C5) Above Central Park/Harlem
Top of the Tower @ Beekman Brooklyn/Park Slope
Tower Hotel (p172) The Lowell (p189) Union Street B&B (p191)
3 Mitchell Place at 49th Street 28 East 63rd Street (Map 8 F4) Bryant Park Hotel (p186) 405 Union Street (Map 13 B4)
& 1st Avenue (Map 6 G1) Upper East Side 40 West 40th Street (Map 6 E2) Brooklyn/Boerum Hill
Midtown/Turtle Bay Midtown/Theater District
The Mark (p189) Washington Square
Zombie Hut (p154) 25 East 77th Street (Map 8 E1) Hotel Chelsea (p183) Hotel (p183)
261 Smith Street (Map 13 B4) Upper East Side 222 West 23rd Street 103 Waverly Place
Brooklyn/Boerum Hill (Map 5 C5) (Map 3 C3)
Mercer Hotel (p182) Midtown/Chelsea Downtown/West Village
DJ Bars 147 Mercer Street (Map 3 D4)
Downtown/SoHo Hotel Wales (p191) W New York,
Beauty Bar (p144) 1295 Madison Avenue Union Square (p185)
231 East 14th Street (Map 4 E2) Morgans (p187) (Map 10 E4) 201 Park Avenue South
Downtown/East Village 237 Madison Avenue Upper East Side/Yorkville (Map 3 D1)
(Map 6 E3) Midtown/Gramercy
Flûte (p152) Midtown/Murray Hill Hudson Hotel (p187)
205 West 54th Street (Map 7 D5) 356 West 58th Street
Midtown/Theater District The Peninsula (p186) (Map 7 C4)
700 5th Avenue at Upper West Side
Frank’s Lounge (p154) 55th Street (Map 8 E5)
660 Fulton Street (Map 13 B4) Midtown/Theater District Maritime Hotel (p185)
Brooklyn/Boerum Hill 363 West 16th Street (Map 3 A1)

$ cheap $$ moderate $$$ expensive (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p183) 229
Travel Information
From pedicab to stretch limo, and with bikes, blades, bus, taxi, and Grand Central Station
train in between, many modes of transportation are available in New This station serves Metro-North trains
York. The city is easy to orient yourself in – a grid of roads covers and many subway lines. The main
much of Manhattan, with streets (west–east) and avenues entrance is on 42nd Street, between
(south–north) numbered in order. Don’t bother hiring a car, or you Vanderbilt and Lexington avenues.
will spend half your time stuck in traffic or looking for a parking Even if you don’t need to take a train,
space. Use the subway and walk whenever possible. you should come to view the beauti-
fully refurbished main terminal. Free
Arrival takes you to Jamaica Station, from tours are offered on Wednesdays at
Whether it’s your first or hundredth where you can take a LIRR (Long Island 12:30 by the Municipal Arts Society
time coming into New York, the Rail Road) train to Penn Station. It’s (212 935 3960).
approach by air, sea or road should also possible to take the Air Train to
inspire you with glimpses of the the Howard Beach subway stop, from Port Authority
Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, where you can take the A train on the The Port lies between 8th and 9th
and a familiar spread of skyscrapers. subway to midtown (about an hour). avenues, from 40th to 42nd streets. It
Once you’ve arrived at one of the serves numerous bus lines and offers
airports or major train or boat Newark International a gateway to all points in the Contin-
terminals, there are various options Taxis from Newark can be pricey. To ental U.S., Canada, and Mexico.
for getting into the heart of the city. save money, take the Newark Airport
Note that because of security Express Bus or shared Super Shuttle Getting Around
precautions, left luggage facilities van, or the monorail to Newark Penn The subway may be crowded in rush
have been suspended in all stations. Station, which connects with New hours, but it’s usually the fastest
York’s Penn Station and the PATH mode of transportation. New York is a
John F. Kennedy Airport trains. Allow 45–60 minutes. pedestrian-friendly area too.
Also known simply as JFK (for the
former U.S. president), this is the LaGuardia Airport Subway Trains & Buses
biggest of the three main airports and If you’re heading to the Columbia or The MTA (Metropolitan Transit
is used primarily for international and the Upper West Side, you can take the Authority) is responsible for the 24-
Los Angeles flights. Once through M60 bus for a mere metrocard swipe hour system of city buses and sub-
customs, choose either a yellow cab (see below). Otherwise, share a Super ways. The metrocard ticket works for
($45 flat rate to Manhattan plus tolls), Shuttle van or take a private car or both. You can purchase a set amount
express bus, the Air Train, or subway. New York Airport Bus. Yellow cabs of rides or unlimited day, week, and
Don’t accept unsolicited taxi rides. offer a shared taxi ride option to keep month metrocards, which are cost-
Private car services such as Carmel fares lower. Allow 20–40 minutes. efficient for frequent trips (prices are
offer competitive pricing that’s a little listed on the website). Machines take
cheaper than yellow cabs, but you Penn Station credit cards and cash; note that booth
need to call them for a pick-up. Super Located close to Madison Garden, attendants don’t accept large bills.
Shuttle offers shared van rides. Allow between 32nd and 33rd streets and One swipe ($2) allows you to enter
45–60 minutes for car and express 7th and 8th avenues, this train hub the subway system for an unlimited
bus services to and from Manhattan. serves New Jersey Transit and Amtrak time and distance, often with a free
The AirTrain (www.panynj.gov/ trains. It also connects with many bus transfer. Buses take metrocards
airtrain) connects the terminals and subway lines. or exact change of $2 in coins.

230 For detailed travel information, visit www.enewyork.dk.com


Travel Information
After midnight, trains are less frequent New York has a network of scenic
and some express lines run local, cycle paths, the best of which stick to Directory
making many stops. Keep in mind that the periphery of Manhattan or park- Amtrak Rail
nights and weekends are the prime land in the outer boroughs. Cycles 800 USA RAIL; www.amtrak.com

time for track work, so pay attention to can be rented from Metro Bicycles Carmel Car Service
212 666 6666
announcements on service suspension (www.metrobicycles.com) and A
www.carmelcarservice.com
or re-routing. After midnight, buses stop Bicycle Shop (212 691 6149)
anywhere on the route upon request, (www.a-bicycleshop.com).
Grand Central Station
www.grandcentralterminal.com
even if it’s not an official stop.
Greyhound Bus
Tours 800 231 2222
Taxis Big Apple Greeters are trained www.greyhound.com
Yellow cabs are the official New York volunteers giving free, personalized
JFK Airport
taxis. The meter starts at $2.50 with walking tours of neighborhoods. 718 244 4444
$0.40 increments for every 1/5 of a Guides are also trained to give tours www.kennedyairport.com

mile, or after 2 minutes if you’re stuck to the disabled (212 669 8159; LaGuardia
in traffic. There’s a $1 weekday peak www.bigapplegreeter.org). www.laguardiaairport.com

hour surcharge from 4–8pm; the night By water, Circle Line (212 563 3200; Liberty Helicopter
surcharge (after 8pm) is $0.50. www.circleline42.com) offers tours 212 967 6464
www.libertyhelicopters.com
Taxi drivers have a reputation for circumnavigating Manhattan, or
being reckless or rude, but most are shorter ones sailing in the Harbor or MTA
Subway/Bus/LIRR/Metro-North info
friendly. The white light in the middle just up the Hudson or East rivers. www.mta.nyc.ny.us
of the sign on top of the car signals
Newark Airport Express Bus
that it’s ready for hire; if the whole sign Helicopters www.olympiabus.com
is lit, then it’s off duty. Most yellow Besides getting you to the airport or
Newark International
cabs are limited to four passengers. the Hamptons, helicopters are a fun 973 961 6000
way to get a bird’s eye view of the city. www.newarkairport.com

Other Options Various tour themes and lengths are New Jersey Transit
It’s pricier than a cab, but the human- available from Liberty Helicopter. 800 772 2222; www.njtransit.com

powered pedicab is fun and can often New York Airport Bus Service
dodge through traffic jams. Some Walking & Eco Tours www.nyairportservice.com

drivers are also licensed tour guides. Notable walking tours include Big Onion New York Waterway
PATH trains connect the 33rd Street (www.bigonion.com) and I’ll Take 800 53 FERRY

and 6th Avenue, and World Trade Center Manhattan Tours (732 270 5559; NY/NJ Port Authority
stops with Hoboken, Jersey City and www.newyorkcitywalks.com). New For airports, bridges, tunnels,
bus and train stations
Newark for $1.50 – useful for getting to York City Audubon (www.nycas.org) 212 435 7000
the NJPAC (see p131). has a naturalist slant, offering tours of www.panynj.gov
Ferry services operate around the the parks or out on the water. You can PATH
Manhattan coast and offer crossings to also paddle a kayak in the Hudson for 800 234 7284
New Jersey. Special summer services free at the Downtown Boathouse Super Shuttle
on New York Waterway also connect (www.downtownboathouse.org). In 212 BLUE VAN
www.supershuttle.com
downtown piers with a super beach at Harlem, there are three excellent
Sandy Hook, New Jersey. cultural tours (see p226).

231
Practical Information
Whether you need to find a decent public restroom, an accessible open daily, including Sundays and
subway stop or a WiFi hotspot for your laptop, knowing the basics in holidays. However, some
any new place is useful. While this section offers practical help with establishments choose to close on
some basic questions, remember that in spite of an alleged gruff Mondays for a break. The same goes
exterior, New Yorkers are generally happy to offer guidance to the for most sightseeing attractions –
uninitiated. The key to getting information from a native is not to be including galleries and museums.
shy and to ask for what you need directly. Hip clothing stores and record
shops downtown tend to stay open
Disabled and Duane Reade. Remember that until at least 8pm on a regular basis.
Organizations health insurance is essential. Record shops may be open until
Since September 2002, the City of midnight or even 1am. Some shops
New York has committed to ensure Gay and Lesbian with late closing hours may open at
that all 158,738 street corners are Travelers 11am. Restaurants billed as “late-
ramped for wheelchair accessibility. A great place for up-to-date inform- night” usually serve until 1 or 2am;
Work isn’t fully completed yet, but ation is The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & standard serving hours are until
many corners have been tackled. Transgender Community Center. This 10:30–11pm. Bars tend to close
Most MTA buses are equipped with is open daily from 9am–11pm and between midnight and 1am during the
lifts for wheelchairs, but only a select welcomes drop-in visitors. The New week, staying open until around 3 or
few subway stations are accessible. York Times has been recognizing 4am on Friday and Saturday nights.
Reduced fare options are available for same-sex unions in its Sunday
public transportation. “Society” pages since 2002. Money
For subway maps in Braille call 718 A credit card (or two or three) is
330 3322. Hands On! is an organization Listings/What’s On essential in New York, especially for
providing sign language interpretation Time Out New York is an informative booking a hotel room or if you want to
for films, theater productions, and weekly, with a bias towards Manhattan. hire a car. Visa, MasterCard, Amex,
museum exhibits. Hospital Audiences, The bi-weekly, free L magazine and Diners Club are accepted by the
Inc. offers an audio service for blind (www.thelmagazine.com) focuses on majority of businesses. Traveler’s
theatergoers and museum visitors. events in Brooklyn and below 23rd checks are also widely used. Indeed,
• Hands On! Street in Manhattan; it can be found many businesses accept payment in
212 740 3087; TTY use relay 711 in the orange boxes on the streets, traveler’s checks instead of cash, but
• Hospital Audiences, Inc. usually near another good freebie, the the checks must be in denominations
888 424 4685; TTY 212 575 7673 Village Voice (www.villagevoice.com). of U.S. dollars. Traveler’s checks in
The New York Magazine features more U.S. dollars can be exchanged for cash
Emergencies and Health mainstream events. The Friday at most banks in New York, but other
There are several good emergency Weekend Guide section to The New currencies are difficult to exchange.
rooms (see Directory). You can also York Times (www.nytimes.com) Before traveling, check with your
find details of all types of New York highlights cultural events. bank to see if you can use your debit
hospitals at www.citidex.com. The card in the U.S. In many New York
site lists walk-in centers, which are Opening Hours stores, you will be asked to key in
good for less urgent ailments. All of Most shops are open by 9am, and your debit card PIN rather than sign
the 24/7 pharmacies belong to one of regular closing time is 5–6pm, and your name. This isn’t the case
the three big chains: CVS, Rite-Aid, later on Thursday. Many shops are in restaurants, however.

232 Check out the weather forecaast at www.enewyork.dk.com


Practical Information
Phones and you’re sporting a walker and grey hair,
Communications many nightclub bouncers won’t let Directory
Check coverage with your cellphone you in without ID. 24/7 Pharmacies
provider before traveling, or hire a CVS 1396 2nd Ave. at 71st St. (&
other locations)
phone. Note that U.S. companies Tipping 212 249 5699
charge you to make and receive calls. The general rule of thumb is that you www.cvs.com
Verizon payphones on the streets tip restaurant serving staff 15%–20% Duane Reade
charge 50 cents for an unlimited time of the bill. (Salaries in the industry are 224 West 57th St. (& other locations)
212 541 9708
on any local call. Some public phones very low, so most staff really do rely
www.duanereade.com
charge only a quarter for a local call, on tips). If you’re mathematically
Cellphone Rental
but time is limited. Note that you must challenged, then double the listed tax
212 832 7143
dial the full code 1 212 for any number which will give a 17.25% tip. www.roberts-rent-a-phone.com
within the 212 area code. Beauticians and taxi drivers should
Crime Victims Hotline
There are many Internet cafés. If receive a 15–20% tip, although many 212 577 7777
you have a wireless laptop, then look people offer drivers just over 10%. Directory Enquiries
for the free WiFi hotspots. Starbucks Bartenders usually receive $1–3 per Dial 1 (area code) 411
coffee shops have WiFi, but you pay round. For hotel room service, offer a or 1 (area code) 555 1212

for the T-Mobile connection. Free 15% tip, unless a service fee is Doctors on Call
wireless connectivity can be found in included in the bill; hotel porters get 212 737 2333 (24/7 service)

Bryant Park and many of the small $1–2 per bag. Emergencies
parks found downtown, including City 911

Hall and Bowling Green Park. Check Tourist Information Emergency Rooms
St. Vincent’s Hospital
www.wifihotspotlist.com/ny/html for The New York Convention & Visitors
West 11th Street at 7th Avenue
updates of new areas. Many libraries Bureau operates a visitor information 212 604 7998
have free Internet connectivity too. center on Seventh Avenue and updates
Bellevue Hospital Center
the official NYC tourist web site. 462 First Avenue at 27th Street
Sales Tax Also try www.ny.com and www.visit 263 7300
A sales tax of 8.625% is added to newyork.com. Many locals use Urgent Care Center NY Hospital
most things that you purchase, www.newyorkmetro.com to find 525 East 68th Street
212 746 0795
including to restaurant and bar bills. things to do, eat, and buy. For
up-to-date local news, weather and Government Info & Services
311 (non-emergencies)
Security & ID information, try www.ny1.com.
Since 9/11/01, more attention is paid The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual &
Transgender Community Center
to security in public areas. Unatten- Washroom Facilities 208 West 13th Street,
ded bags and packages are treated There’s a noted lack of public facilities 212 620 7310
with suspicion and removed. in New York, which results in many a www.gaycenter.org

Stay aware of who is around you crossed leg. Natives are known to dash National Organization
when you’re gazing up at skyscrapers into hotel lobbies or a local Starbucks on Disability
www.nod.org
(a dead giveaway that you’re a tourist). to find the nearest “rest” facilities. To
Take some form of photo ID if you work out where the good public wash- Tourist Info
810 7th Ave. between 52nd & 53rd Sts
plan to go bar- or club- hopping (the rooms are before you venture out, 212 484 1200 www.nycvisit.com
minimum age allowed is 21). Even if check www.thebathroomdiaries.com.

Tax on goods in shops is occasionally waived during promotional shopping weeks – check www.NYSale.com 233
General Index
2A 134, 141 art & architecture (cont.) B.B. King Blues Club & Grill 122 Brighton Beach 166
2nd Avenue Deli 23, 33 historic buildings 94, 96, 98, BB Sandwich Bar 36 Broadway theaters 124
55 Bar 113, 116 107, 225 B-Bar & Grill 135, 143 Broken Kilometer 96
60 Thompson 181, 182 modern architecture 95, 99, Beacon’s Closet 89 The Bronx 167, 175
66 22, 24 109, 225 Beauty Bar 134, 144 Brooklyn Academy of
92nd Street Y 125 museums 95–109, 160, 225–6 Bed & Breakfast Music 112, 129
125th Street 163 for art & architecture listed by on the Park 180, 191 Brooklyn Botanic Garden 10, 176
1871 House 180, 188 area, see pp212–19 Bedford Avenue 165 Brooklyn Bridge 12, 19, 100
for art & architecture listed by Bedford Cheese Shop 165 Brooklyn Heights 164

A type, see pp225–6 Beekman Tower Hotel 17 Brooklyn Historical Society 109

ABC Carpet and Home 75 Art Deco 18, 99 Bemelmans Bar 135, 153 Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory 164

ABH Designs 84 art galleries 14, 96, 108, 225 Bereket 19, 27 Brooklyn Industries 165

Abingdon Guest House 181, 183 Arthur Avenue, The Bronx 167 Bergdorf Goodman 58, 81 Brooklyn Lager Brewery 165

Acappella 24 Artisanal 42 Bevy’s SoHo Loft 180, 182 Brooklyn Museum of Art 16, 108

accessories 225 Asia Society 103 A Bicycle Shop 231 brunch 13, 220

accommodations agencies 191 Astoria 14 Big Apple Greeters 231 Bryant Park 15, 17

Acqua Pazza 45 Atlantic Grill 22, 48 Big Apple Jazz Tours 163 Bryant Park Hotel 186

airports 230 Audubon Center 175 Big Onion 231 Bungalow 8 134, 150

Air Train 230 Ava Lounge 135, 152 Biltmore Room 40 buses 230–1

Aix 51 Avalon 19, 149 Black Betty 155 Butta’Cup Lounge 54

Akwaaba Mansion 191 Blades, Board and Skate 59, 84 Butter 87

Al Di La 53 B Blind Tiger Ale House 147 Buttermilk Bar 156

ale houses 227 Babbo 22, 34 Bliss Café 165

Alexander McQueen 161 bakeries 220 Bliss SoHo 170 C


alfresco drinking 135 ballrooms 226 Block Beautiful 98 cabaret 226
Algonquin Hotel bar 16 Balthazar 23, 25 Bloomingdale’s 76 Cabin Club at Pine Tree Lodge 148
Alias 28 BAM see Brooklyn Academy of Music Blue Note 115 cabs 231
Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center 112, Bamonte’s 55 Blue Ribbon Bakery 33 Café Arbat 166
126 Banana Republic 70 Blue Ribbon Sushi 33 Cafe Gitane 27
ALife Rivington Club 59, 69 Bao 29 Blue Smoke 41 Café Glechik 166
Amish Fine Food Market 160 Bar Veloce 144 blues venues 113, 227 Cafe Habana 27
Amtrak Rail 231 Baraonda 153 BMA see Brooklyn Museum of Art cafés 31, 220–1
Amy Ruth’s 163 Barge Music 19, 112, 130 Boat Basin Café 155 Calypso 67
Angel Feet 170 Bark 87 Bolo 40 Campbell Apartment 151
Angel’s Share 142 Barney’s Co-Op 62 Bond 07 By Selima 68 Canal Street 160
Angelica Kitchen 32 Barney’s New York 58, 82 Bonsignour 72 Candle 79 48
Anna Maria’s 165 Barramundi 134, 140 book stores 223 Carapan Urban Spa and Store 75
Annie’s 47 bars & clubs 132–157 Borders 12 The Carlyle 183
Antarctica 136 for bars & clubs listed by area, Borgatti’s Ravioli & Noodle Carmel Car Service 230
The Apartment 66 see pp212–19 Company 167 Carnegie Hall 11, 112, 125
Apollo Theater 128 for bars & clubs listed by type, Bowery Ballroom 117 Castle Clinton 12
Aquavit 22, 45 see pp227–9 Bowery Poetry Club 112, 118 Cathedral Church of St. John the
Arlene’s Grocery 117 Bar Veloce 18 Bowling Green Park 160 Divine 174
art & architecture 92–109 basketball 161 Bra Smyth 82 CBGB 118
art galleries 14, 96, 108, 225 Battery Park 12, 160 Breuer, Marcel 101 cellphones 233

234
A–H
Central Park 15, 173 Connecticut Muffin 164 E galleries see art galleries
Century 21 58, 60 Conservatory Gardens at Central Earth Room 96 Gansevoort Street 161
chain stores 70 Park 173 Earwax Records 90 Gap 70
Chanel 14 Convivium Osteria 53 East Village 17, 18 gardens see parks and gardens
Chanin Building 18, 99 Cooper-Hewitt National Design Ed Sullivan Theater 124 Garment District 13
Chanterelle 38 Museum 16, 105 Egidio Pastry Shop 167 gay and lesbian
Chelsea 14, 19 Copacabana 151 The Elephant 27 information 232
Chelsea Flea Market 162 Cornelia Street Cafe 113, 115 emergencies 230, 232 gay bars & clubs 134
Chelsea Inn 181, 185 Le Corset by Selima 62 Empire State Building 18, 99, Gay Pride 11
Chelsea Lodge 181, 185 Cosi 160 100 Geisha 46
Cherry Blossom Festival 176 Costume National 58, 63 Ess-a-Bagel 44 General Electric Building 18, 99
Chez es Saada 141 Crif Dogs 36 Eugene 149 Genki Sushi 44
Children’s Sculpture Garden 174 Crime Victims Hotline 233 George Washington Bridge 175
Chinatown 13, 160 Cubbyhole 134, 148 Giants Stadium 131
F
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory 160 Cube 63 28 gig venues 113
fashion stores 223–4
Cho Dang Gol 43 Cukiernia 165 The Ginger Man 151
Fat Beats 71
Christian Louboutin 59, 83 cycling 231 Glass 135, 150
Fat Cat Billiards 16
Chrysler Building 18, 99 Golden Unicorn 13, 25
Feast of San Gennaro 11
Chumley’s 135, 146 Gotham Comedy Club 121
D Federal Hall 160
churches 226 Gowanus Yacht Club 135, 155
Daily Chow 23, 30 Felissimo 59, 80
Churrascaria Plataforma 44 Graceful Services 14
Daily News Building 99 ferries 12, 16, 231
Cielo 135, 148 Gramercy Tavern 38
dance clubs 135, 228 festivals 10–11, 176
cinemas 19, 227 Grand Central Station 100, 163,
dance performance venues 112, 227 film see cinemas, movies
Circle Line 12, 231 230
Dean & DeLuca 12, 13, 58, 65 film festivals 10
City Bakery 11, 39 Grand Sichuan International 39
Deborah 13 Film Forum 114
City Center 123 Great Lakes 155
Deitch Projects 96 film theaters 227
classical concert venues 112, Great NY Noodle Town 160
Demolition Depot 86 Flatiron Building 18, 100
226–7 Green Market 160
department stores 58, 223 Flight 001 59, 72
Clio 63 Greyhound Bus 230
Diane B 83 The Florence Gould Hall 124
The Cloisters 106 The Grocery 52
DiFara Pizzeria 54 Florent 13, 38, 161
clothing stores 223–4 Ground Zero 95
dim sum 13 Flûte 152
clubs see bars & clubs Guggenheim Museum 16, 104
diners 23, 46 Folksbiene Yiddish Theater
Clyde’s 83
directory enquiries 231, 233 at the Manhattan JCC 16
C-Note 119
disabled facilites and food stores 224
H
cocktail lounges 228–9 Hable Construction 68
organizations 232–3 Forbes Magazine Gallery 98
coffee shops 31, 220–1 Hamilton Fish Pool 14
DJ bars 134, 229 Four Seasons 181, 188
Columbus Park 13 Hammerstein Ballroom 121
Doctors on Call 233 Four Seasons Restaurant 38
combined arts 226 Hands On! 232
Dolce & Gabbana 14 Frank’s Lounge 154
The Comedy Cellar 115 Harlem 15, 163
Don Paco López Panaderia 15 Fresh 71
comedy venues 18, 113, 226 Harlem Flophouse 190
Don’t Tell Mama 123 Frick Collection 102
The Comic Strip 113, 125 Harlem Spirituals 163
Dos Caminos 41 Fried Dumpling 36
concerts & concert halls 10, 11, haute couture 58
Downtown Boathouse 231
112, 226–7
DT–UT 162 G havens 168–177
Cones 36 Gagosian 96 Hayden Sphere 18
Duplex 116
Coney Island 166 Galapagos 135, 157 health & beauty 224
Dylan’s Candy Bar 58, 82

235
General Index
health information 232 Isa 59, 89 La Palapa Rockola 34 March 47
Heights Books 164 i-Shebeen Madiba 54 La Perla 82 de Maria, Walter 96
helicopter tours 231 i Trulli 22, 42 Lady Mendl’s Tea Room 31 Maritime Hotel 185
Helmut Lang 14, 62 Itzocan Café 162 LAFCO 69 The Mark 180, 189
Henri Bendel 76 Landmark’s Sunshine Theater 118 markets 13, 15, 162, 224
Hiro 19, 134, 150
J Lansky Lounge 139 Mary Boone 14, 96
Jackson Diner 167
historic buildings 225 Larry Gagosian 14 Mary’s Fish Camp 37
Jackson Heights 167
Holiday Market 162 Larry Lawrence 156 massage 14
Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge 176
Hospital Audiences, Inc. 232 Lenox Lounge 113, 129, 163 Mayle 68
Jamaica Station 230
hospitals 233 Leo Koenig 96 McSorley’s Old
Jane 26
Hot Chocolate Festival 11 lesbian and gay information 232 Ale House 17, 135, 142
Jazz Record Center 78
Hotel Chelsea 183 The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Meatpacking District 19, 161
jazz venues 19, 113, 227
house stores 224 Transgender Community Center Mei Lai Wah Coffeeshop 13
J. Crew 70
hotels 178–189 232 The Melrose 189
Jefferson Market Courthouse 98
booking 191 Liberty Helicopters 231 Mercer Hotel 180, 182
Jeffrey 58, 74, 161
top choices 180–1 Liberty Island 12 Mercer Kitchen 25
The Jewish Museum 16, 105
for hotels listed by area, see Libeskind, Daniel 95 Merchant’s House Museum 97
JFK see John F. Kennedy Airport
pp213–19 Library Bar 148 Mercury Lounge 113, 116
Jimmy Choo 78
for hotels listed by price Liliblue 83 Merkin Concert Hall 125
Jimmy’s Uptown 154
category, see p229 Lincoln Center for the Performing Mermaid Inn 31
Jivamukti Yoga Center 171
Hotel Venus by Patricia Field 60 Arts 11, 126 Mermaid Parade 166
Joe 31
Hotel Wales 180, 190 lingerie 224 Metaphors 165
Joe’s Pizza 19
Housing Works Thrift Shop Loeb Boat House 15 Métrazur 152
John F. Kennedy Airport 230
59, 85 Long Island Rail Road 230 Metro Bicycles 231
John’s of Bleecker Street 35
Housing Works Used Loom 87 metrocards 230
Joya 23, 52
Book Café 15 Lotus 144 Metropolitan Museum of Art 103
The Joyce Theater 112, 120
HSF 13, 160 LouLou 53 Mezzaluna 23, 47
Hudson Hotel 181, 187 The Lowell 189 Mi Nidito 43
K
Hudson River Park 161 Lower East Side Tenement Mica Bar 148
Karkula Gallery 161
Hungarian Pastry Shop 174 Museum 97 Mini Minimarket 59, 88
Kate Spade Travel 60
Miu Miu 58, 63
Kate’s Paperie 66
I M mobile phones see cellphones
Kavehaz 121
ice cream parlors 221 M & I International Food modern architecture 225
Keiko 61
ID 233 Market 166 see also Art Deco and
Kensington Stables 175
I’ll Take Manhattan Tours 231 Macy’s 76 Skyscraper Museum
KGB 142
INA 58, 67 Madison Square Garden 17, 131 Momenta Art 108
Kiehl’s 77
‘inoteca 28 Magnolia Bakery 58, 71 monorail 230
Kirna Zabete 63
installations 225 Mahayana Buddhist Temple 160 Montrachet 24
The Kitchen 112, 120
interiors 224 Makor 127 Moon River Chattel 61
Knitting Factory 113, 114
Intermix 84 El Malecón II 50 Morgans 181, 187
Korova Milk Bar 145
International Center of Mamoun’s 36 Moss 14, 64
Photography 100 Mandoo Bar 42 movies 17, 19, 227
L
Internet cafés 233 Manolo Blahnik 59, 78 MTA see Metropolitan Transit
L’Ecole 26
Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Roof Marc by Marc Jacobs 58, 72 Authority
La Cafetiere 74
Garden 172 Marc Jacobs 64 Mud Spot 31
LaGuardia Airport 230

236
H–S
Mud Truck 31 Nobu 38 Peter Jay Sharp Theatre restaurants (cont)
Municipal Arts Society 230 Noguchi Sculpture Museum 177 see Symphony Space ice cream parlors 221
El Museo del Barrio 107 Noodle Pudding 51 Peter Luger Steak House 55 tea rooms 222
Museum at the Fashion Institute of Norma’s 46 pharmacies 233 top choices 22–3
Technology 98 Nuyorican Poet’s Cafe 17, 119 phones 233 vegetarian 223
Museum Mile Festival 10 NYC tourist website 233 Picholine 50 for restaurants listed by area, see
Museum of Chinese in the NY Dosas 23, 37 Pierogi 2000 108 pp210–18
Americas 160 The Pierre 174, 189 for restaurants listed by cuisine,
Museum of Modern Art 101
O pizzerias 222 see pp220–3
Olmstead and Vaux (landscape
Museum of Television Planet Thailand 55 Restaurant Week 11
designers) 175
and Radio 103 The Plaza 183 Rhône 19, 148
opening hours 232
Museum of the City of New York Plunge Bar 155 The River Café 22, 52
Otto Enoteca and Pizzeria 34
105 poetry cafés & venues 17, 227 Rodeo Bar 122
Ouest 23, 49
museums 16, 225 Pommes Frites 36 Roosevelt Avenue, Jackson
music stores 224 Port Authority 230 Heights 167
music venues 227 P Prada 64 Rose Center, American Museum of
Music Under New York 163 Pace Wildenstein 14, 96 Pravda 139 Natural History 18
MXYPLYZYK 73 Palm Court Tea Room 31 Pret a Manger 15, 160 Rose Museum at
parades 11 Prospect Park 10, 175 Carnegie Hall 100
N Paragon Sporting Goods 76 Prospect Park West 107 Rotunda at the Pierre 174
ñ 138 Paris Commune 13 Prospect Park Zoo 175 Roundabout Theatre Company @
Nathan’s Famous Hotdogs 166 parks and gardens 10, 15, 160, P.S.1 109 the American Airlines
National Organization 161, 162, 172, 173, 175 P.S.122 112, 120 Theatre 122
on Disability 233 see also Index by Area, The Public Theater 112, 119 Roxy 19, 134, 149
NBC Studios 124 pp210–19 Puerto Rican Day 11 Royalton 186
Nest 88 Park Slope Chip Shop 53 Pussycat Lounge 136 Ruby’s 155
Nevada Smith’s 142 Parkside Lounge 141 Pylos 30 Rudy’s Bar & Grill 148
Newark Airport Express Bus 230 Pasha 50 Rue B 145, 162
Pastis 161
Newark International Airport 230 Q Russian Vodka Room 153
Newark Penn Station 230 Patel Brothers Market 167
Queens 166–7
New Jersey Performing PATH trains 231
S
Arts Center 112, 131 Paul’s Palace 23, 31 R Sahil Sari Palace 167
New Jersey Transit 231 Pearl River Mart 61 Radical Walking Tours 163
St. John the Divine 174
New Leaf Café 22, 51 pedicabs 231 Rafe 59, 68
St. Mark’s Sounds 78
New York Airport Bus Service Peking Duck House 25 Rainbow Room 123
St. Patrick’s Cathedral 12
231 The Peninsula 186 The Ramble at Central Park 173
St. Paul’s Chapel 94
New York City Audubon 231 Penn Station 15, 230 Red Cat 39
St. Regis 180, 186
New York Convention & Visitors Pepe Rosso’s 36 Red Hook 164
Saks Fifth Avenue 76
Bureau 233 performance 110–131 Relish 23, 55
S & B Polish Restaurant 165
New York Daily News Building 99 top choices 112–13 El Repertorio Español 16
Sandwich Planet 23, 43
New York Harbor 12 for performance venues listed by Rescue Nail Spa 66
SCO 67
New York Marathon 11 area, see pp212–19 restaurants 20–55
Scoop 65
New York Stock Exchange 12, 160 for performance venues listed by bakeries 220
Searle 84
New York Waterway 231 type, see pp226–7 breakfast & brunch 220
seasonal events 10–11
Niketown 80 performing arts 227 cafés 31, 220–1
security 230

237
General Index
Serena 134, 149 Subterranean Records 71 trains 230–1 Whitney Museum of American Art
Serendipity 3 47 subway trains 230–1 Trash 134, 156 at Altria 100
Shea Stadium 131 Sullivan Room 134, 146 Tribeca Film Festival 10 WiFi hotspots 233
shoes 225 Sumile 38 Tribeca Grand Hotel 134, 183 Wild Lily Tea Room 171
Shop 70 Sunshine Cinema 19 Trinity Church 160 Williamsburg 108, 165
shopping 56–91 Super Runners 85 TV studios 227 Williamsburg Art & Historical
top choices 58–9 Super Shuttle 230 Two Jakes 61 Center 108
for shops listed by area, see Sushi of Gari 49 Williamsburg Savings Bank
pp211–19 Swift 18, 142 U Building 109
for shops listed by type, see swimming pools 14 U.S. Custom House 94 Winnie’s 136
pp223–5 Swing 46 123 Uncle Ming’s 134, 146 Wollman Rink 175
Single Room Occupancy 152 Symphony Space 127 Union Square Café 39 Woolworth Building 96
Sky Bar 155 Symposium 51 Union Square Green Market Wright, Frank Lloyd 104
Skyscraper Museum 95 (farmer’s market) 13, 162
Union Street B&B 180, 191
Slipper Room 141 T X
Smoke 113, 127 Upright Citizen’s
Tabla 40 Xukuma 86
S.O.B.’s 114 Brigade 18, 113, 121
Le Tableau 29
Sobaya 22, 32 Takashimaya 59, 79
Urban Outfitters 70 Y
Socrates Sculpture Park 177 Tamarind 22, 41 Yaffa Cafe 19, 30
SoHo 14 Taniguchi, Yoshio 101 V Yankee Stadium 131
SoHo Billiards 16 Tartine 23, 38 Vaselka 19 Yoshio Taniguchi 101
SoHo Grand Hotel 182 Tavern on the Green 38 Verb Café 165
Soho House New York 180, 184 tax see sales tax Via Quadronno 31 Z
Le Souk 29 The View Bar 155 Zabar’s 58, 85
taxis 231
The Soul Cafe 122 Village Vanguard 19, 113, 116 Zombie Hut 154
Tea & Sympathy 31
Spa at the Mandarin Oriental 172 Teany 70 Vitra 161
Spacial 89 tea rooms 31, 222 Vol de Nuit 146
Spirit 19, 150 telephones 233 Volume 135, 156
Spoonbill & Sugartown Booksellers Temple Bar 138
88, 165 Teresa’s 164
W
sporting goods 225 W New York, Union Square 181, 185
TG-170 69
sports arenas & venues 131, 227 walking tours 231
theaters 16, 124, 227
Spuyten Duyvil 156 Wallse 37
THOM’s Bar 137
Stand-Up NY 127 Wall Street 12, 160
thrift stores 225
Starbucks 233 Walter de Maria 96
tickets for Broadway theaters 124
Staten Island 16 Warsaw 130
Times Square 100, 163
stationery 225 Washington Square Hotel 181, 183
tipping 17, 233
Statue of Liberty 12, 100 washroom facilities 233
Tomoe Sushi 22, 33
Stella McCartney 73 Wave Hill 175
Tompkins Square Park 162
Stock Exchange WD-50 28
Tonic 113, 117
see New York Stock Exchange Welcome to the Johnson’s 18, 140
Top of the Tower @ Beekman Tower
Stonewall 134, 147 West Village brunch 13
Hotel 17, 172
The Strand 77 White Horse Tavern 135, 147
tourist information 233
streetlife 158–167 Whitney Museum of
tours 15, 163, 226, 231
Studio Museum in Harlem 107 American Art 16, 101
Town 46

238
Acknowledgments
Contributors
Dahlia Devkota’s love of travel has taken her to many Susannah Sayler is a New York-based photographer
parts of the globe, from Nepal to Cuba. As well as and artist. She has worked on more than 20
writing for travel publications, she has been Beauty guidebooks, as well as Metropolis and Planet
Editor at W fashion magazine, covering beauty and magazines. While shooting for this guide, Sayler
fitness trends, and spas around the world. For this reported that she had discovered many great spots
guide, she wrote the Shopping chapter. that she hadn’t known about, despite having lived in
New York for eight years!
Rachel F. Freeman, native New Yorker and
committed foodie and nightowl, loves finding the Produced by Blue Island Publishing
spice in food, people, and destinations. She’s lived in www.blueisland.co.uk
Scotland and Poland and has written for publications Editorial Director Rosalyn Thiro
including The Unofficial Guidebook to New York City Art Director Stephen Bere
and Voyage magazine. She wrote the Hotels, Havens, Editor Michael Ellis
Performance, Streetlife, and Practical chapters of this Editorial Assistant Allen Stone
guide, as well as part of the Restaurants chapter. Proofreader Jane Simmonds
Picture Researcher Chrissy McIntyre
Jonathan Schultz, a New England native, co-authored
DK’s Top 10 Boston guide. Despite a profound love for Published by DK
his adopted home of Brooklyn, Jonathan remains an Publishing Managers Jane Ewart, Vicki Ingle and
ardent Boston Red Sox fan. For this guide, he wrote the Anna Streiffert
Art & Architecture, Bars & Clubs, Seasonal, and Top Senior Editor Christine Stroyan
Choices chapters, as well as part of Restaurants. Senior Designer Marisa Renzullo
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris
Andrew Holigan combines commercial travel-based Senior Cartographer Uma Bhattacharya (DK India)
photography and art photography. Since the 1980s he Cartographer Kunal Singh (DK India)
has lived and worked in New York, London, Sydney, Factchecker Rebecca Carmen
and Melbourne. His works have been exhibited at DTP Designer Jason Little
galleries in the UK, and he has also worked on DK’s Production Coordinator Rita Sinha
guides to the USA and France. Revisions Rebecca Carman, Ros Walford

239
Acknowledgments
PHOTOGRAPHY PERMISSIONS 172bl; Michael Moran 15 bl; Guggenheim 92–3dps,
The publishers would like to thank all the museums, 104t; Studio Museum Harlem 107cl; Trinity Church 160tl
hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs, shops, galleries and
other sights for their assistance and kind permission to EARTH ROOM: Walter De Maria 96br
photograph at their establishments.
FOUR SEASONS: 178–9dps, 181tc, 188tl; THE FRICK
Placement Key: t = top; tc = top centre; tca = top centre COLLECTION, John Bigelow Tayler: 102tr, bl, br
above; tcb = top centre below; tl = top left; tr = top
right; c = centre; ca = centre above; cl = centre left; GETTY IMAGES: Mitchell Funk 1c, 6–7c; LOTUS: 144br
cla = centre left above; clc = centre left centre;
cr = centre right; crb = centre right below; crc = centre MERCER HOTEL: 180bl, 182crb; MUSEUM OF MODERN
right centre; b = bottom; bl = bottom left; br = bottom ART: 101tr; MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK: 105tL
right; l = left; r = right.
NEW JERSEY PERFORMING ARTS CENTER: 131tl, tr
The publishers would like to thank the following
companies and picture libraries for permission to RAINBOW ROOM: 123crb; ROYALTON 186 ca
reproduce their photographs:
SKYSCRAPER MUSEUM: 95bl; SOHO GRAND HOTEL:
66: 22tc, 24tl; 1871 HOUSE: 188br 182cl; SOHO HOUSE: 180tc, 184tr
THE SPA AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL: 172tl; THE
AKWAABA: 191tl; ASIA SOCIETY: Frank Oudeman 103bl STRAND BOOKSTORE: 77bl

BLACK BETTY: Marike Voss 156tl; BLISS SOHO: WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART AT ALTRIA: 100cl;
170ca/cbl/cbr; BROKEN KILOMETER, Walter De Maria’s: WHITNEY MUSEUM OF MODERN ART: 10br, 101bl
96cl; BROOKLYN ACADEMY OF MUSIC: 129br;
BROOKLYN BOTANICAL GARDENS: 5b, 10bl; BROOKLYN
HISTORICAL SOCIETY: 109tl; BROOKLYN MUSEUM OF JACKET IMAGES:
ART: Adam Husted 108tl, tc; BUNGALOW: 150cla Front: Alamy Images/CheapShots (cr & spine)/Ralph
Henning (clc); Corbis/Lester Lefkowitz (crc); DK
CAMPBELL APARTMENT: 151br; CHELSEA LODGE: 185cl; Images/Dave King (cr); Getty Images/Mitchell Funk
CITY CENTER: 123br; CORBIS: Viviane Moore 10tr, Adam (background).
Woolfit 11bl, Bettmann 11cr Back: Corbis/Lester Lefkowitz (tr); Getty
Images/Mitchell Funk (c).
RICHARD DABB: 15br; DK IMAGES: David King/Tim Knox
14tr, 163br; David King 17cl, 103tr; Norman McGrath:

240
Nights and
The Manhattan Subway weekends Local service only
only
The Metropolitan Transit Authority subway service All trains stop
(local and express service)
operates 24 hours a day. On this map, bold identification Station served by
n
letters or numbers below station names indicate that io e one of two lines
at m • C
St Na A Free subway transfer
trains always operate between 6am and midnight. A light
Free out-of-system subway
letter or number shows that the train does not run at all transfer (MetroCard only)
Full time
times or skips a station. Following the destruction of service Part time Normal service
service
the World Trade Center, Cortlandt Street Station is Special rush hour or
express service
temporarily closed.
For more information call (718) 330 1234 or Terminal Commuter rail service
visit www.mta.nyc.ny.us/nyct/subway/index.
This map is current as of 2004 and is used with the permission of the Metropolitan Transportation Authority.

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