PRB IRSE sere : service notes Copyright 1972 by THE SOCIETY OF PHOTO-TECHNOLOGISTS © SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 1972 PAGES 467-482ate oo SOCIETY OF PHOTO- TECHNOLOGISTS service notes THE AGFA SUPER SILETTE L K, TYPE 2110 WITH PRONTO L K SHUTTER Front Panel and Shutter Removal This article is not intended to cover the total service proceedure. The intent is to show how best to cope with the problems encountered during take down and re-assembly. Top Removal: The cable release and the rewind knob elevating latch mechanism remain in the cover; the round latch release button next to the rewind knob has RH threads and is apt to be in tight. Note the lever into which it was screwed. This lever must be swung towards the back side of the cover during cover removal and replacement. The rewind knob unscrews CCW while holding the fork. The large flat slotted nut below has RHT. One screw is concealed below the plate in the bottom of the accessory shoe. The front window frame may be left on. Watch for the small tube be- tween the cable release and the trip pin on the underside of the cover during cover removal. and installation. “ Front Panel and Shutter Removal If the light meter is functioning, set the ASA scale to 100, speed to 1/250, diaphragm to f/8. Place the light gather- ing cell on the camera before your light panel at 130 foot candles, and the meter needle should rest midway between the triangular indexed as seen in the win- dow. The red flag in the window will be elevated on bulb or any camera setting that would yield an overexposure. Remove the top cover. Take note of and index exactly the position of the small round stud on top of the back edge of the meter body in relationship with the strap laying across the top of the meter, This will be a future ref- erence point. Remove four screws from the inside of the film cavities and separate the panel from the body. Upon separation, five parts will become loosened: focal duct, shutter wind shaft and pinion assembly, rangefinder actuating rod, shutter trip and a round brass slug with concentric grooves. The latter will come popping out of its cage under the torque of a spring acting upon a vertical worm shaft to which it was mated. It will be discovered that the metering rod that protrudes from the back side of the panel is actuated by a threaded sleeve and cam arrangement which is an in- tegral part of the shutter case itself and is adjustable. Any combination of shutter speed and diaphragm placements will place the September-October 1972/467metering rod, grooved slug, vertical worm shaft and the meter housing in a very definite position. Our main con- cern, now, is how to fit the panel/ shutter to the body so that correct metering will result; the matching of other parts is pretty obvious, BUT NOT SO THE PARTS PERTINENT TO METERING When the grooved slug popped out of its bore it lost an important relation- ship with the mating gear of the vertical shaft. This correct timing will have to be re-established and the systems held in place while the other parts are mated and panel/shutter fitted to the body With the focal duct removed, insert a finger through the aperture plate or focal frame and push the vertical shaft in a clockwise rotation as viewed from above. With the slug in its bore the slug can be pulled into mesh with the mating worm shaft. We might even get the meter to read correctly with the light cell before our 130 foot candles light panel while hanging onto our spring tensed vertical shaft. If so, it is sheer luck and, if so, it will not hold, Besides, the focal duct must be replaced. Fortunately there is a way out of this dilemna. The Agfa designers provided a means to lock up the metering assembly so that shutter/panel could be mated and systems restored to the functioning mode. With the focal duct removed, the vertical shaft is rotated as stated against the spring tension of the meter linkage Continue the rotation about 7/8 of a turn until a small drilling dimple just below the shaft gear lies on the long axis of the camera body. Drop the slug into its bore and, holding it there against the worm shaft, rotate the shaft further cw, drawing the slug into the mesh. By the time the slug has been drawn in 2mm, the small stud on top of the meter body 468/SPT Service Notes should be in alignment with the pre- viously established index mark. Con- tinue the rotation of the vertical shaft until the slug has been drawn into its bore about 5mm. The meter case will then have rotated clockwise PAST the index mark; this movement will be accompanied with an audible click. It is here that the geniuses of Agfa have provided below the meter body a latch to hold the meter drive assembly. The slug and vertical shaft will be held in a locked mode while the meter body may. be free to rotate back to its rest position. At this point a dry-run may be made if desired. With the shutter set on bulb and diaphragm as 2.8, the metering rod will now project a minimal distance from the panel. Fit the metering rod into the cavity in the end of the slug as the pane! is mated to the body and secure the panel with several screws. Lightly prod the link below the meter and this will free the spring loaded vertical shaft which will rotate approx. 180 degrees c ¢ w which is too far for the meter to return. However, by adjusting the shut- ter and diaphragm back to 1/250 and f/8, the metering rod will be further extended; the vertical shaft will be counter rotated placing the meter into its proper position. If the camera is now placed before the 130 foot candles light panel, the meter needle should register between the indexes in the meter window. If not, a timing error exists between the slug and vertical shaft which it operates. Change speed and diaphragm. settings within this light value range to be certain all parts have been seated. When satisified that the meter is functioning correctly, again reach into the aperture plate, rotate the vertical shaft as before to its lock-up position; This time the grooved slug will be held in ryA Casing for Slug ane Vertical Shaft J=— verccat state Latening Mechaniam ties tn this sre below Meter and is not viele, Drawing here is only symbols. le t 2504/8 ASA 100 September-October 1972/469position by the locked up shaft — no concern about it getting away. Proceed again to remove shutter/panel assembly. All metering parts within the body being held in readiness, proceed. Now that the shutter wind shaft and its pinion have been placed in proper position with the winding rack, check its relationship with the jaw coupling to the mating coupling of the shutter main lever, being sure of enough leaway for shutter bulb action. The shutter wind shaft having been placed in its proper position, paint mark its end so that if it should become misplaced during panel fitting, orienta- tion would be easily established. Fit the focal duct to the cutouts on the back side of the focal frame, being certain it fits all the way in and in proper register. If the rangefinder were now blocked in its infinity position and the front focusing cell turned c ¢ w to its close up position, ample leaway would be given to the rangefinder, thus easing one assembly problem. Once the remaining parts are guided into place as the panel is mated to the body and the assembly held with several screws, wind and trip action on the bulb, correct metering, correct focusing to rangefinder (the rangefinder block, of course, having been removed). The film should have been fully transported and shutter fully cocked with about 60 degrees move- ment of the setting lever. Eugene Verstecg Redfield, South Dakota WARDS 736 SUPER 8 MOVIE CAMERA To get at the mechanism, separate two main components. Remove two screws in the forward top of the film compartment. Turn the camera over and 470/SPT Service Notes strip the back vinyl cover from in front of the model number plate. This cx poses two screws in the center. Remove these and the two major components will separate without anything to watch out for. To get below the film compartment. remove the three visible screws. A thin aluminum plate is glued and must be carefully removed. Do not remove the two screws now exposed in the bottom plate. Remove the flat cartridge spring and the bottom plate can be pulled out exposing the counter, battery check and some gears, The meter battery compartment has a tendency to corrode in this camera. Gene Knapp Carmichael, California AGFA MOVEXOOM COUBLE 8mm MOVIE CAMERA Disassembly To gain access to the motor and electrical components in this camera follow the following steps. Remove the film compartment door. Remove the two flathead screws at the rear of the film compartment. In front of the compartment near the bottom there is a film guide post which is Imm in diameter with two rubber friction bands, one at the top and one at the bottom of the post. There is also a large screwdriver slot on the top of the post. Insert large screwdriver or spanner wrench, — CAUTION — This is a LEFT HAND thread. Remove this post. Be very careful as this post may be very tight and difficult to remove. Remove the pressure plate thumb screw on the top of the pressure plate assembly pivot post. Lift to remove the assembly. There is visible a double arm flat spring which is secured to the camerawith two screws, Remove the two screws and the spring. Remove the two screws holding the film plane guide to the camera. You can now remove the base cover plate with threading diagram _-—~from the film compartment. Remove the two screws, one of which is located at the top center and the other which is located just below the film plane. See the diagram. Do not remove the screw below the film plane located on the lens wall. Turn the camera over to the battery compartment side. Remove the battery compartment door and battery pack. On the side of the camera are two knobs. Remove the metal discs with alcohol, Remove the E-washer on each and remove the knobs. Lift off (with some effort) the side of the camera. Allen H. Eshleman. Lititz, Pennsylvania Cy KODAK RETINA-XENON LENS 41.9, 50mm SCHNEIDER-KREUZNACH Disassembly for Diaphragm Cleaning From the front of the lens remove the black ring with the two dimples in it. Lift out and also lift out the filter and nameplate ring. Remove next the front lens elements by unscrewing the outermost black ring with dimples in it. From the rear of the shutter unscrew the rear lens elements. From the front of the lens remove the wire circle clip which retains the dia- phragm upper plate. Remove the two springs now visible which keep the control plate spring in a clockwise direc- tion. From the rear of the lens remove the yplain screws and one red screw which retain the lens mount. Lift off:the lens mount, Now note carefully what you do. Lift off the five rings and two springs which form the depth of field indicator assembly. Extend the focus mount to the eight foot position. At the bottom of the lens on the side near the cam groove you will see a screw which goes into the focusing barrel. This screw is one of the two spring posts for the springs previously mentioned, Remove this screw, turn the control plate full clockwise, and the diaphragm contro| plate and blades can be removed through the front of the lens. Note that the blades are assembled into the lens barrel with their tips pointing counter-clockwise. James Todd Amos Denver, Colorado RICOH AUTO-SHOT Remove the screw in the center of the rewind knob and remove the knob: by holding the tangs and wiggling the knob upwards. Peel off the “WIND” escutcheon plate (being very gentle, it bends easily). Unscrew the three screws and lift off the knob, IMPORTANT: Keep the camera upright and, for information only, carefully remove the center screw and lift off the gear retaining washer to expose the two gears which ‘serve to prevent unwinding the advance spring. Note that one tooth of the small gear is slightly longer and acts as the stop. Replace the screw and: plate; a small piece of scotch tape will hold the plate in place. Open the back and remove the two screws in the film supply chamber and one screw under the take-up spool. Remove the two screws from the release knob and remove the knob. Pull the front forward and off the lens barrel. Watch the wires. Remove three screws from the bottom cover plate and lift off the plate. September-October 1972/471NOTE 1: If the automatic wind does not work, the trouble is generally that the plastic liner of the governor cup has broken and been thrown out. If a replacement is not available, cut a piece of 8mm film leader to fit and cement it in place to the inside of the cup by pliabond cement. If the ends of the film overlap, make sure that the overlap is in the direction of the governor rotation. NOTE 2: When replacing the bot- tom cover be sure to set the friction spring into the slot in the cover. Moe Joffe Passaic, New Jersey WARDS TL -810 MOVIE CAMERA Remove the pistol grip handle by unscrewing the large knob at its base. Depress the chrome button.next to the tripod socket to remove the four AA size motor run batteries. Note that at the front of the battery compartment there is a separate compartment that contains the PX 625 type meter circuit battery. Open the film compartment door by pushing the latch downward and lifting the door to the left. Unscrew the three large chrome screws in the film compartment and the mechanism cover plate on the opposite side of the camera will lift off. Remove the two black flat head screws at the corners of the film ap- erture base plate. Remove one black flat head screw diagonally across from the battery compartment release button at the bottom of the camera. The lens and front housing of the camera will now lift off. Watch for connecting wires. CAUTION: A small chrome pin which actuates the type A filter when the filter key or movie light is inserted into the camera body will fall free. Watch for it! NOTE: The camera run motor has a safety interlock and will not run unless the diaphragm closes to around f/2 or smaller. Since the Auto/Manual control 472/SPT Service Notes knob under the lens controls the dia- phragm, it must be rotated from the off position to either an intermediate man- ual setting or to Auto. Also, since the manual control of the diaphragm is done electrically, the metering battery must be in place and in good order for the drive motor to operate. Louis Spiros Oakland, California ZORKI 30PKUU’ (ZOP-KEW) -4 Top Removal Here is a procedure for top removal to obtain access to the shutter speed control and rangefinder for a Russian built 35mm, coupled rangefinder, focal plane shutter camera. Remove the locking screw in the side of the film advance knob located on the right side of the top (lens facing away from you). Unscrew the knob and remove it. Remove the two screws (black) now exposed Remove the speed setting dial by removing the two small screws in the side of the knob, Remove the screw in the flash syne delay setting dial. Only the screw will come out. The dial will remain attached to the top. Remove the screw on the front top directly below the small rangefinder window. Remove the screw on the top back located just below and to the right of the viewing port. The top can now be lifted off [Note: The rangefinder infinity set- ting can be adjusted without top re- moval by removing the screw located to the left (front view) of the large window ‘on top. Once the screw is removed a small screwdriver can be inserted for the adjustment. ] Bryan A. Roche Las Palmas de Gran Canaria(MaIA dOL) 7. AOE qouy Buieg poods sesanys qouy aseajoy pumay a pees. uonng ebebu3 wi!4 pue ouy Purmoy Ww} yeypos sseajey 31429 Bury Aejag youd yse.y qou> eauenpy soesuedwog ‘sue7] sepuyysbuey, 40007 Surges Aeieg senanys. uoring aseajay Avjag seranyg Bury piety 4o uadog ald yser 4s Bury sno04 suo Bury dors - 5 Bury saquiny - 5 September-October 1972/473NEOCA 35K Top Cover Removal Holding the film rewind shaft with a screwdriver, remove the top screw of. the film wind lever. Remove the top cover on the cocking lever. This plate is screwed into the cover and unscrews counter-clockwise. With a multispan wrench, using one needle tip and one blade tip, remove the retaining cover for the cocking lever. | place the pointed tip in the centre hole and the blade into the groove on the side of the plate. This turns off clockwise. Remove the two screws holding the arm to the shaft and lift it off. Remove three screws, one on each side and one on the back of the cover to.the right of the view window and lift the cover off. Remove the film sprocket shaft as follows: Locate the small counter sunk screw in the middle of the barrel of the film spool and remove it. Remove the film counter dial sprocket and lift it off. The shaft through the film advance sprocket can now be liftedout. Remove the screw at the end of this shaft and lift out the film counter Reverse the procedure to reassemble. P.J. Cormier Medicine Hat, Alta, Canada VICEROY POWER ZOOM REFLEX Front End Removal With the lens front (focusing) ele- ment set a infinity, loosen the three screws on the focusing ring and lift it off. (Be sure to scribe the focusing ring position in relation to the lens barrel.) Loosen the three screws on the lens barrel and the three screws on the zoom ring. Lift off the zoom ring and then the lens barrel. It ig not necessary to remove the nameplate. 474/SPT Service Notes Remoye the two screws, one on each side of the movie lamp receptacle. Loosen, but do not remove, the two screws at the rear of the hand grip and remove the two on the inside of the front of the grip. Push the grip to either side (carefully) to expose two screws under the grip. Remove these. Lift off the front housing, which exposes the mechanism for repairs. Ralph F. Dunham Los Altos, California REVERE 1064 Disassembly (to repair hard shutter release problems) Remove the vinyl covers from the top, bottom and side, both sides, and note that the front is secured by two ears on each side which are held in place by screws. Now remove the four screws, carefully lift the front, slightly, then turn it over with the front facing the work bench surface, and continue to remove the front equally. Place the front off to one side in the position that it was removed. Now place the camera with the mechanism facing up and note the left side, the lens cover blade, and the shutter release mechansim. Remove the lens cover blade pivot post screw, spring and blade. The spring which places tension on the shutter release should be worked off with a hooked tool and slid over to the meter catch mechansim arm and placed on this arm. Now remove the two shoulder type screws and the shutter release. There are two washers under the shutter release The shutter release binds due to the sensing lever cam surface being irregular, which does not always alloav the double exposure lever to drop back far enough: The upper portion of the release lever has a square section which strikes thedouble exposure pin. However, because this section is quite square, it catches against the pin rather than pushing it back. You can round this area slightly, and then stone the surface smooth and it will cease to affect shutter release problems while not causing loss of double exposure prevention. Reassembly is the reverse of dis- assembly. The other problem noted with this camera is the cube socket. The springs within the socket seem to be somewhat stiff and this causes hard insertion pro- blems with the cube. If some moly grease is applied to the springs, this will ease insertion problems with the cube. Douglas C. Johnson Fort Myers, Florida ANSCOMATIC 626 Focusing and Shutter Speed Removal Remove the retaining ring on the front of the lens mount with a multi- span wrench. Lift out the photo cell ring (black), and the three set screws for changing the focus are now visible. To get the shutter to remain open, back out the black screw on the side of the lens mount near the shutter release and wind the film and depress the shutter release Ivison bulb. To remove the shutter simply remove the retaining ring around the rear lens and the entire front assembly will pull out revealing the shutter works. To replace the shutter assembly, remove the screw mentioned above, used to change to bulb, and slip the assembly back onto the camera body. Replace the retaining ring and screw used for bulb. John A. Lidrud Eau Claire, Wisconsin CANON EX EE Top Cover Removal Wedge the rewind forks and unscrew the rewind knob counter-clockwise. Using a pair of parallel jaw pliers with rounded out jaws, unscrew the PC flash socket. Make a note of the shutter speed setting and ASA setting, and then re- move the pin hole screw in the top of the shutter speed dial. Lift off the entire shutter speed dial assembly as one unit. Remove the pin head screw on the top of the wind lever, and lift the wind lever off. Lift off the drive plate now re- vealed. Remove the four top cover screws from the front, right side and back of the top cover. Note that the long screw came from the front, the short screw from the right side, and the two remain- ing screws from the back. Lift the top cover off. Replace the shutter speed dial assembly and screw. Proceed with repairs as needed. James Todd Amos Denver, Colorado KALIMAR AM Shutter Removal Open the back of the camera. With a multispan wrench remove the four screws from the corners of the cover over the lens barrel. With a multispan wrench unscrew the ring holding the shutter to the camera body. Lift off the shutter. This exposes four screws hold- ing the metal front plate to the camera body. A small section of leatherette covers the bottom section of this plate. Gently pry this back before removing the plate. This exposes the release arm. P.J. Cormier Medicine Hat, Alta, Canada September-October 1972/475r C opeiojo9 “49Au9q sowly ppo| sewe/ yjLaw SILWWIHOS aunsodxd YddNS WL VOILAWYd XIWINVH ‘ongisuee sous of yuounsnipy Lu suounenfpy Je0ury Zu 8 LiL auounenipy ownen £m sowed oq Pinoys epeee our ur Aaeineg ow guy ums wo sey ty sowie eigenen vy 1810 Poets peu wD q ED Oa GA Set exe zu : om 189 ores eu Pe A76/SPT Service NotesFUJICA COMPACT 35 To Remove Bottom Plate: Peel back the leatherette up to the tripod attachment to expose two screws. Do the same on the hinge side. This side requires more exposure so peel the leatherette part way up the side to expose one screw only. Remove these three screws, open the back of the camera and lift the plate out. This exposes the shutter cocking and film counter mechanism. If the shutter does not cock, check that the plate attached to the bottom of the cocking lever shaft is properly seated and that the screw is tight. P.J. Cormier Medicine Hat, Alta, Canada NIKON F Special Tool for Unscrewing Retainer No. 387 in A-R Ring The A-R ring surrounds the shutter release button. To remove this retainer, this tool is helpful. Robert L. Cohen Hampton, Va. 41/2" 020 to .021 Side View ARGUS AUTRONIC II Access to Range Finder or Top Cover Removal for Cord Replacement It is necessary to first remove the eye piece frame as follows: Remove two screws on the back side to loosen the top cover. Using a knife or a sharp edge, unsnap the lower edge of the eye piece away from the cover. The cover can now be removed by maneuvering around the back cover latch button. The balance of the repair operation follows the procedure in the Service Notes, p. 120, and other Notes on the Argus Autronic, Norvin C, Rickman Sioux City, lowa KODAK 35 Clutch Spring Replacement The flint spring from some cigarette lighters is just the right size to fit the one-way clutch in the wind knob ofa Kodak 35 camera. The springs are between .070 and .075 inches in diameter and need only be cut to the proper length before installation. Henry Fisher Brooklyn, New York Made from Tool Steel Front View September-October 1972/477HOW 1 BUILT AN AUTOCOLLI- MATOR FOR UNDER $15 (PLUS JUNKBOX PARTS. An autocollimator is almost a neces- sity in a shop servicing 8mm cameras when lens focus must be adjusted. How- ever, the high cost of commercial equip- ment has kept this vital item from small shops. | now have one which works very well at a cash outlay of less than $15.00 and some items from my junkbox. This is a fixed-focus model working at in- finity. The basic unit is a surplus Model N-3C Air Force gunsight. This gunsight is really a collimator so my only pro- blem was to convert it to an auto- collimator which proved to be quite easy. The unit as received is complete with a 28 volt center-tapped bulb. Half the filament can be operated from a 12.6 volt filament transformer and half the filament proved to be bright enough. When the first half burns out, | will wire in the second half. The first step in the conversion is to strip everything from the casting and cut the mounting rings off the bottom with a hacksaw. Discard the electrical connector attached to the bottom. Next mount the casting to a mini-box into which the filament transformer and switch are fastened. Wires to the lamp go through the hole left when the connector was removed. Small rubber feet were added to make the mini-box sit level on the bench. Drill a hole in the casting near the rear diagonal mirror to accomodate the 478/SPT Service Notes eyepiece tube (size of hole depends on eyepiece used). Below the hole mount the beamsplitter mirror in a brass fitting bolted to the bottom of the tube. The frame is painted flat black and the fixture is positioned at a 45° angle so that one can see out the front of the casting while looking through the hole ‘on top. Once positioned, the bracket is sealed with glyptol. Next, reassemble the gunsight and set the objective lens at infinity. The best way to do this is with an auxiliary telescope which has been focused on the moon and the focus adjustment locked. Turn on the lamp and adjust the objec- tive lens with a multispan wrench until the pinhole is sharp as seen by the auxiliary telescope. The help of a friend is good at this point to view through the telescope while the lens is being adjusted. 1 was fortunate in having the eye- piece assembly from a Micronta 97L371 camera-to-microscope adapter in my junkbox. This unit proved perfect for the conversion. It has a crosshair reticle and focusing eyelens already built into an attractive tube. First adjust the eye- lens for sharp focus on the reticle and then slide the entire assembly onto the hole in the casting over the beam- splitter. Take the unit outside and posi- tion the eyepiece tube in the hole until a distant object like the moon is in sharp focus. Secure the eyepiece tube in this position and the autocollimator is finished. Joseph C. Hayden Lexington, Kentucky éHOLVWITIOOOLNY NV OLNI LHDISNND JEN 40 NOISH3ANOO 09'S A18301 10 918601 “1sds “young OS § POD BUNT “oye “sines08 “300) soggny ————— 68’ L$ 'SOSLBELZ°ON PENS IPP a ‘Aepuooes sijon 971 wuH103sueR 3UsUIey 6£"1S ‘SEZAOLZ'ON AoEUS O1PEH ‘GILT XE X ¥/L XOVIUIN PLL'OL “ON “09 S6'6$ eae ‘Synuai9g spunwpy “Iy6:sunp 1qwesse FORO Y yexoesg pereotsqe sous jeucberg 99'S “SLaG£8'°N 19POM “so.mus zonydsweeg ‘su0} ennzelao. September-October 1972/479NIKON FTN METER PRISM, Access to Interior For Inspection of Metering System and Adjustment of Pots Remove three chrome screws around the nameplate. Depress lens engaging pin and lift off the nameplate. Remove two large chrome screws on front prism head latch bracket and lift out front latch assembly. Remove four black screws from around the prism. The prism may now be carefully pulled part way out. CAUTION: Wires connected to inner side of battery compartment will prevent the prism from coming all the way out. However, at this stage you will have access to the adjustment pots, the CDS Cells, the metering rings, and the galvanometer. NOTE: Further disas- sembly should be done with EXTREME CAUTION as the various rings and gears are very critically timed. Louis A. Spiros Oakland, California PARTS Drawer Dividers The plastic covers from flash cubes make excellent compartments for parts storage drawers. Cut the cover from the base and cement several of them together to “compartmentalize” a whole drawer. W. Lee Bible Hanover, Pennsylvania JEWELER'’S Saw Blade Lubricant Before using a jeweler's saw, draw the blade across a piece of bee’s wax. This will greatly extend the life of the blade by reducing the heat build-up from friction. Many more strokes can be made without stopping to allow the blade to cool. Lewis F. Trapp Cincinnati, Ohio 480/SPT Service Notes CANON DEMIS HALF FRAME 35mm CAMERA Shutter Blade Assembly On recent repairs of this camera | have noted that the shutter blades have reached a point that they bind. When the camera comes from the factory the two shutter blades ride on a piece of metal called a guide plate. When the shutter is triggered they open and close but on the closing stroke the blade tips hit and slide over each other. After a while they tend to bend or mar on the tips, finally causing them to bind or malfunction as seen in the drawing. To keep this from happening again after repairs, put one on top of the guide plate and the other blade under the guide plate. There is plenty of clearance so they operate really well and there is no way for them to bind again. William Cohl, Jr. Pocasset, Massachusetts COCKING Pin Removal The small pin in the clocking lever on the back of many leaf type shutters is often difficult to remove. A punch and hammer usually nets a bent shaft or a broken pin. Here is a handy tool fabricated from a pair of needle nosed pliers and used to remove these pins quickly and easily. Cut a slot into one end of one of the tips. This can be done by using a small milling cutter or a fine toothed hacksaw blade with the edges ground down. The post end (A) can be rough ground and then finished with a file. You can grind the engaging sides so that they meet squarely. Make the slot (B) a bit wider than necessary, but don't make the pin punch projection any narrower than necessary. Frederick R. Heward San Carlos, CaliforniaBlade 1 Blade 2 Guide Plate for Shutter Blades OLD WAY blade ends hit and bind here. &—— Base Plate Blade 1. Blade 2 Guide Plate for Shutter Blades NEW WAY Blade tips can no longer hit with the one on top and the other on the bottom of the guide plate. September-October 1972/481HONEYWELL PENTAX PENTAX SPOTMATIC — Tightening Flash Terminals It is unnecessary to first remove the top cover before removing the front plete. Just peel the leather from around the lens mount, remove the self timer lever (timer will run down, slightly) and remove (4) of the (5) screws from the front plate Now, by removing the rewind knob and retaining nut in the usual way, the top cover can be raised at this end just high enough to free the front plate, Remove the 5th scrow from the front plate and carefully pull it off while noting the position and number of ony shim washers at the screw holes. Tighten both flesh terminal nuts securely and apply lacquer (nail polish) to seal. Reassemble in reverse order, using care in aligning the self timer keyed shaft. ALY. Simo Pittsfield, Massachusetts 482/SPT Service NotesBulk Rate ° Bet am. THE SOCIETY OF PHOTO-TECHNOLOGISTS. PAID P.O. Box 19308 Denver, Colorado 80219