Softener

Tania Akther
Lecturer
Department of Wet Process Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles
Introduction
The softeners are surface active agents; that is, their molecules contain both hydrophilic and hydrophobic
components. Typically, the molecules contain a long alkyl group, sometimes branched, of 16–22 carbon
atoms, but most have 18 corresponding to the stearyl residues; silicones, paraffins and polyethylene softeners
are exceptions. About one-third of the textile softeners are silicone based. As a general, the softening agents
applied are hygroscopic or lubricating agents, which facilitate the fibre sliding within the fabric structure, thus
granting easier deformation and creasing of the fabric.
Why are softeners used for textile processing ?:
• The hand of the textile material is most important quality for most buyers and users. Softness has always
been an important aspect in textile finishing, and it has become even more important when the synthetic
detergents entered both industry and the household. Due to the removal of natural fats and waxes which had
given the fibres a natural softness and smoothness, the usage of a lubricant at the end of the finishing
process became necessary.
• Handle correction is absolutely necessary for new processes that came up, such as resin finishing, or for the
touch of fabrics which should possibly be like synthetic fibres, as well as for an increased comfort
consciousness in general.
• Textiles produced from open-end yarns showed a distinctly harder, more brittle handle than ring-spun yarns,
and classical softeners could not sufficiently compensate to handle such differences.
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• A new problem came up that was caused by the increasing number of jet dyeing machines and overflows. In
view of the high shear forces in the short liquor technique, softeners with a low foaming tendency and a high
shear resistance are required for this purpose.
• Fabric softeners have been in use since the 1930s. However, their demand increased greatly in the 1950s due
to the introduction of synthetic fibres and synthetic detergents, as well as the modern washing machine and
automatic dryer. The mechanical agitation of automatic washers causes abrasion and surface fuzz formation
in fabrics, as well as distortion and entanglement of fibres, more rapidly than earlier wringer washing
machines. The entangled fibres were further set by the automatic dryers; this produced a stiff and harsh hand
which prompted interest in and created a market for home laundry softeners.
• Synthetic fibres are prone to static buildup, which can be objectionable to the wearer. Fabric softeners act as
antistatic agents by enabling synthetic fibres to retain sufficient moisture to dissipate static charges.
The softeners are mainly used for textile processing for the following:
(1) To provide desired softness often described as smooth, supple, super soft, elastic, dry or slashy.
(2) To influence or to improve technical properties, namely, antistatic, hydrophilicity, elasticity, sewability and
rubbing fastness.
(3) To confer natural touch on synthetic fibres and to improve their wearing comfort by the regulation of
moisture content or smoothness.
 How softener improves softness, sewability and tear strength of fabric:
• Softeners act as fiber lubricants and reduce the coefficient of friction between fibers, yarns, and between a
fabric and an object (an abrasive object or a person’s hand). Whenever yarns slide past each other more
easily, the fabric will be more pliable and have better drape. If some of the lubricant transfers to the skin
and the fabric is more pliable, the fabric will feel soft and silky. Lubricated fabric sliding against
lubricated skin gives rise to lower coefficients of friction and a silky sensation.
• The softening effect is mostly effective on the textile surface. In addition, small softener molecules may
penetrate into the fibres and provide an internal plasticization of the polymers by reducing the glass
transition temperature.
• Sewing problems are caused by the friction of a needle rapidly moving through the fabric. Friction will
cause the needle to become hot and soften thermoplastic finishes on the fibers. The softened finish
accumulates in the eye of the needle restricting the passage of the sewing thread creating more sewing
thread breaks. A softener will reduce needle heat buildup, provide a steady source of needle lubricant and
thus reduce thread breakage.
• Tearing resistance, reduced abrasion and improved sewing characteristics are also related to lower
coefficients of friction. Fabric tearing is a function of breaking yarns, one at a time, when tearing forces
are applied to the fabric. Softeners allow yarns to slide past each other more easily therefore several yarns
can bunch up at the point of tear. More fiber mass is brought to bear and the force required to break the
bunch is greater than the force required to break a single yarn.
The essential properties of a textile softener
(1) Available in forms convenient to handle: stable liquid, predilutable and dosable
(2) Compatible with common textile auxiliaries
(3) Nonvolatile and stable in high temperature
(4) Nonyellowing
(5) Should not affect color fastness of dyed materials
(6) Low foaming and shear stable; does not deposit on rollers
(7) Preferably applicable by exhaust processes with good properties
(8) Ecofriendly, nontoxic and dermatologically safe
(9) Biodegradable and good price performance
Classification of Softener
• Mainly There are 4 types of softener:
1. Cationic Softener
2. Anionic Softener
3. Non-ionic Softener
4. Amphoteric Softener

Anionic Cationic Amphoteric Nonionic

(a) Sulphates (a) Quaternary (a) Sulphobetaines (a) Ethoxylates
(b) Sulphonates ammonium salts (b) Fatty amino (b) Esters
(c) (b) Amino-amides acids (c) Polyethylenes
Sulphosuccinates (c) Cyclic cationics (e.g. (c) Amine oxides (d) Silicones
imidazolines) (e) Waxes
Mechanisms of the softening effect
• The physical arrangement of the usual softener
molecules on the fiber surface is important and
shown in Figure. It depends on the ionic nature of
the softener molecule and the relative
hydrophobicity of the fiber surface.
• Cationic softeners orient themselves with their
positively charged ends toward the partially
negatively charged fiber (zeta potential), creating a
new surface of hydrophobic carbon chains that
provide the characteristic excellent softening and
lubricity seen with cationic softeners.(Figure-a)
• Anionic softeners, on the other hand, orient
themselves with their negatively charged ends
repelled away from the negatively charged fiber
surface. This leads to higher hydrophilicity, but less
softening than with cationic softeners.(Figure-b)
• The orientation of non-ionic softeners depends on
the nature of the fiber surface, with the hydrophilic
portion of the softener being attracted to hydrophilic
surfaces and the hydrophobic portion being attracted
to hydrophobic surfaces .(Figure-c)
Cationic Softener:
Cationic softeners are ionic molecules that have a positive charge on the large part of the molecule. The
important ones are based on nitrogen, either in the form of an amine or in the form of a quaternary ammonium
salt. The amine becomes positively charged at acidic pHs and therefore functions as a cationic material at pH
below 7. Quaternary ammonium salts (hereafter referred to as QUATS), retain their cationic nature at all pHs.
So, The organic quaternary compounds (QUATs) have pH-independent positive charge. Due to their affinity for
the textile fibres, the cationic products can be applied by both padding and exhaust processes even from baths
with high liquor to goods ratio. This class of softeners is most widely used because of its high degree of
substantivity (especially to cotton and acrylic fibres) and effectiveness at low concentrations.
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Advantages:
• Cationic softeners have the best softness and imparts fluffy, silky hand to most all fabrics at very low levels of
add-on.
• Cationic softeners are reasonably durable to laundering.
• They have affinity to almost all fibres and are usually applied by the exhaust method in acid environment (pH
4-5).
• Cationic improves tear resistance, abrasion resistance and fabric sewability.
• Cationics also improve antistatic properties of synthetic fibers.
• They are compatible with most resin finishes.
• They are good for fabrics to be napped or sueded.

Disadvantages:
• They are usually not compatible with anionic products (precipitation of insoluble adducts) such as optical
brighteners and dyeing auxiliaries.
• They provide a hydrophobic surface and poor rewetting properties, because their hydrophobic groups are
oriented away from the fiber surface.
• They have poor resistance to yellowing for which Cationic softeners are mainly used for coloured textile
substrates and have higher soil retention property.
• They may change dye shade or affect light fastness of direct and reactive dyes.
• They retain chlorine from bleach bath.
 Why does cationic softener cause yellowing of fabric?
Due to the chemical nature of most softeners they trend to turn yellow and change color with factors such as
high temperature, prolonged storage and their formulation. In addition due to its oily adhesive structure and
application conditions (amount of use and PH), the increase in the amount taken causes the surface to turn
yellow. The high free amine value (not protonated) of the cationic softener causes color change due to air
oxidation during drying phase. The azo yellow and azoxy yellow resulting from the oxidation of the amino
radical with the effect of heat and air cause the fabric to turn yellow. They also retain chlorine from bleach
bath which form chloramine and also causes yellowing of fabric. Generally, quaternization or cyclization of
the cationic softener reduces the amount of free amine which contribute to yellowing. Today, cationic
softeners with ester quate structure that don't contain free amines can be preferred in colors not to cause
yellowing.
Anionic Softener:
Anionic softeners are composed of a high molecular weight fatty chain with their notable solubility conferred
by –COONa, -OSO3Na and –SO3Na groups. Anionic softeners have limited use in textile processing at
present. They are used in raising and sanforizing processes, resulting in the improvement of smoothness/anti-
static and rewetting properties, respectively. They are also used for combined finishing with other anionic
substances.
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Advantages:
• Anionic softeners are heat stable at normal textile processing temperatures and some resistant to yellowing.
• As crease-preventing agents in dyeing processes (anionic products do not retard at all, or only to a small
extent)
• They are compatible with other components of dye and bleach baths.
• They can provide strong antistatic effects and good rewetting properties because their anionic groups are
oriented outward and are surrounded by a thick hydration layer.
• Sulfonates are, in contrast to sulfates, resistant to hydrolysis.
• They are often used for special applications, such as medical textiles, or in combination with anionic
fluorescent brightening agents.
Disadvantages:
• The degree of softness with anionics is interfere when compared with Cationics and some non Ionics.
• Limited durability to laundering and dry cleaning.
• Anionics will not exhaust from a bath, they must be physically deposited on the fabric.
• Anionics tend to be sensitive to water hardness and to electrolytes in finish baths.
• Anionics are incompatible in some finish baths containing cationically stabilized emulsions.
Nonionic Softener
Nonionic softeners do not carry any electrical charge and therefore do not possess any distinctive substantivity. Such
products are applied by means of forced application (i.e. usually in padding mangle procedures). Nonionic softeners can be
combined universally, are stable to temperature and do not show yellowing. This is the reason that this product class is
perfect for finishing optically brightened, highly white articles. In the case of nonionic products, a fatty chain of high
molecular weight (i.e. saturated compound of C16–C18) provides the softening effect, and the solubility is provided by
condensation with an ethylene oxide chain (EO). They have a general formula, R(OC2H4)nOH or R(C2H4)nOOH (where
R=alkyl), and contain different nonionic components such as fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty amines,
paraffins and oxidized polyethylene waxes as active ingredients.
It should be noted that In case of nonionic softener each softener has different function. For example for ethoxylates, the fatty
radical confers the softness of handle and the ethoxylate chain confers the antistatic properties and absorbency. Esters base
nonionic softener, especially linear esters such as methyl stearate or oleyl oleate, tend to have very good lubricating
properties but they do not have antistatic properties and, being nonpolar, usually need dispersing in an aqueous medium.
Polyethylenes are widely used when crease-resistant or wash-and-wear resins are applied to cotton and its blends to improve
their tensile properties. Waxes used in softener formulations are essentially solids which confer a degree of lubricity to the
fibre. Paraffins are well known for their application in smoothening agents.
So, it is seen that except for the ethoxylates, all the nonionic softeners give good lubricity, but none confers a soft, bulky
handle. Hence, a product that would give good stability or good physical properties to a fabric could easily be formulated
from nonionic agents alone, but if any degree of softness were required, then an anionic, cationic or amphoteric component
would be needed
R-(CH2-CH2-O)n-OH RCOOR’ -(-CH2-CH2-)-
Ethoxylated compound Fatty ester Polyethylene

Fig: General Structure of some non-ionic softeners

Amphoteric softeners
Formulations based on amphoteric substances are usually for special products of certain applications. Amphoteric
products give an average handle, are normally compatible with white and give the fabric a good hydrophilicity,
as well as excellent antistatic properties. They have poor durability in washing. Amphoteric softeners compounds
are compatible with human skin and are often used for hygiene articles. They are widely used for finishing of
terrycloth towels.
Reactive softeners
The softeners described above are merely deposited on the materials (i.e. they are washed fast). Reactive
softening agents can partially react with cellulose on account of their chemical structure and thus give
permanent effects. The most common reactive softening agents are:
(1) N-methylol compounds of higher fatty acid amides (e.g. N-methylol stearic amide)
(2) N-methylol compounds of urea substituted with higher fatty acid (e.g. octadecyl ethylene urea).
N-methylol reactive group can react with cellulose fiber in the presence of acidic catalyst like magnesium
chloride, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate etc. at elevated temperature (140-150 °C).
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Stearylamidomethyl pyridinium chloride ( Velan PF/Zelan AP) when applied without curing step, it acts as
a non reactive cationic softener with some affinity for cellulosic fibers. However, when the curing step is
carried out in the presence of sodium acetate, it reacts with cellulose as follows :

Octadecyl ethylene urea reacts with the cellulosic hydroxyl forming a stable bond, durable to laundering:
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In addition, some polymerization of octadecyl ethylene urea takes place and this polymer gets hydrogen bonded
to cellulose as bellows: .

The reactive softener may be applied as a nonionic softener without curing, when only a temporary softening
effect is produced which is not fast to washing. This may be applied by pad dry technique.
Silicone Softener
Silicone softener is one kind of non-ionic softener. They are insoluble in water, and therefore must be applied on
fabrics after emulsification or dissolution in organic solvents. The term ‘silicone’ refers to artificial polymer
based on a framework of alternating silicon and oxygen (siloxane bonds).
Silicones exhibit some unique properties including thermal oxidative stability, low temperature flowability, low
viscosity change against temperature, high compressibility, low surface tension, hydrophobicity, good electric
properties and low fire hazard because of their inorganic–organic structure and the flexibility of the silicone
bonds. One of the key features of silicone materials is their effectiveness at very low concentrations. Very small
amounts of silicones are required to achieve the desired properties, which can improve the cost of textile
operations and ensure a minimum environmental impact. Normally, due to their difficult emulsion, they were
supplied as macroemulsions (emulsion drop diameter: 1–200 μm) and impart a smooth feel. The silicone drops
do not penetrate textile materials and remain mostly on the surface to impart water repellency.
The mechanism of softening by silicone treatment is due to a flexible film formation. The reduced energy
required for a bond rotation makes the siloxane backbone more flexible. The deposition of flexible film reduces
interfibre and interyarn friction. Thus the silicone finishing of textile produces an exceptional soft handle.
Conversion of chlorosilane to silanol and polysiloxane
Orientation of silicone softener on fiber surface

Hydrophobic part which impart

hydrophobicity to treated materials

Fig: Orientation of silicone softener on fiber surface

Examples of silicone softeners
Hydrophilic silicones
Poor wettability is highly undesirable for
various textile materials like towels,
underwear, sportswear, etc. Most of the
highly effective softeners, including
silicones (especially all conventional
amino silicones), impart a considerable
hydrophobicity to textiles. The wettability
of silicone-treated goods can be improved
in a number of ways. The first generation
of hydrophilic silicones, available
commercially for decades, contains
polyether, namely, polyethyleneoxide
(PEO) and/or polypropyleneoxide
segments as a side chain or as part of the
main polymer backbone, aminopolyether
siloxane and polyether siloxane. These
silicones with polyglycol groups show
excellent hydrophilicity and act almost as
wetting agents.
Important softener characteristics
Softener Application recipe:
Softener = 20-25 g/L
PH = 4-5
Drying: 120-140° C, 2-3 minutes

Application process: Padding

Thank You