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^risfciUa Smocking Jlook
A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL
AND USEFUL PATTERNS

WITH

directions for Working

BY

LOUISE FLYNN

PRICE, 25 CENTS

PUBLISHED BY

^\)t ^risiciUa $ut)lt£if)ing Companp

85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON. MASS.

Copyright, 1916, by The Priscilla Publishing Company

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office
All rights reserved
Copyright in Great Britain and the Colonics
 .F6

A CiiAKMiNt; Tarty Dress for a Litti.f. Girl. Which Siuiu-a thl r S.MCiCKI.M. IN lis
SiMPLKST Form. Ske I'ly,
"
^i
2 _ * " •,-'
©CIA4311MJ1
JUL 24 1916

» *
 THE ART OF SMOCKING
SMOCKING is is a form of needle-
not new, but
work which always in demand because of its
is
simplicity and beauty, and the opportunity it affords
for originality of design. It is, in a few words, the
embroidery of simple stitches upon the folds or plaits
of a shirred foundation, and may be used on any gar-
ment where fullness is desirable. It is charming lor
children's dresses, coats, bonnets, and muffs, as well
as women's waists, dresses, smocks, and other articles
of wearing apparel. The garments and simple de-
signs shown in this book should arouse an added in-
terest in this original, almost freehand work, in
which designs may be created as the work progresses.

—
Materials. The materials which may be used an-
most varied, including linens, crepes, all silks not too
thin, striped and checked dimities, lawns, ginghams, and I. ( ATIIKRINr, TllRKAnS IN PROCESS ON .\ CHECKED
similar goods, as well as velvet, chiffon, lace, albatross, Material. See page 3
cashmere, and other woolen fabrics of like character.
On silk or woolen materials, silk threads should al- ployed at different times by different workers in ar-
ways be used for smocking, and on cotton fabrics, ranging a guide for the placement of these gathering
embroidery cotton either fine or coarse, depending threads, the object being to space the threads at even
upon whether a fine or coarse effect is desired. Two distances apart and to place the gathering stitches in
threads of stranded cot- each row directly under
ton are perhaps the best those in the one preced-
for work upon children's ing, taking up the same
frocks and ladies' blouses amount of material in
when delicate shading and each stitch.
elaborate stitchery are to
be accomplished. For Checked and Striped
more simple work in one Materials. — Perliaps the
color on gingham or crepe, simplest way of arriving
a heavier embroidery cot- at this result and one ideal
ton may be used. for the beginner in smock-
ing is the use of checked
Preparation of Mate- and striped materials, as
rial. — .\s h:is already in bigs. I. J. and 3 on this
been smocking is
stated, page.
embroidery upon the folds
or plaits of a shirred Figure l shows per-
foundation material, and fectly the method for pre-
In.. _>. (.iATHEKiVi. THKKAli> ^ K. KSS ONiA .StkII'KII
I ».

it is absolutely essential Material with Lines Marked by Machine paring a piece of checked
that this foundation be Stitch N<;. See page 3
I
dimity for smocking
carefully prepared. In stitches. In this case the
fact the most important thing in regard to smocking first and third lines are taken up for shirring, and two

is the evenness of the gathering. This cannot be too checks are omitted. This distance between stitches
strongly impressed, as the whole beauty of the work would make coarse work, about four or four and one-
depends upon it. \'arious methods have been em- half times for fullness when finished, depending on the
size of your check.

Figure 2 shows the use of a material with a stripe,

like striped dimity, that can be used for length of
stitch. Here we first show lines stitched by using the
sewing-machine, the width between the lines being
regulated by the presser foot. This little device of
stitching the lines of the greatest value in using
is

striped materials, especially the striped dimity, where

the cords space the stitches. The stitching serves
only as a guide for the gathering threads, and is
clipped bit by bit and removed as the gathering
threads are run in. If the cords are too far apart, one
I'lG. 3. A !•
.\E Checkeli .Matkrial May .Also Hi: stitch between can be used; if the cords are too close
Used. See page 4 together, one can be omitted. Thus it is readily seen
 either fine work and spaces. The lines are to work upon and the
or the reverse is spaces are the size of the stitch, the presser foot be-
easily attainable ing the guide between the lines. (See Fig. 5.) When
and can be cor- the rows of stitching are complete, the threads are
rectly prepared. clipped about every two inches and removed a few
at a time in a manner not to obliterate the impres-
Figure 3. — sion made by the machine-needle. These marks or
Here again is holes are used to determine the length of the shir-
shown a ring stitch, as you shir in the holes the machine-
cbecl<ed mate- needle has made. If very fine work is desired, adjust
rial tine enough the machine to eight stitches to the inch. This gives
for every other you a fullness of three times and is suitalile for tine
check to be material. For heavier material adjust the machine to
omitted in the six stitches to the inch. This gives about four times
shirring, as the fullness. Smocking should rarely be fuller than
shown, and the this and is seldom used with less fullness than twice
same distance and one-half, which is very fine work. In using the
leftbetween the stitched lines, the presser foot gives you the width,
rows of shir- the size of the stitch gives you the length of your
ring, making a stitch for smocking.
square. After
tliese samples Table for Fullness. —
4 times the material for
4. Checked Materi.\l as in Fig. have been fullness —
six machine stitches to the inch.
I, WITH Gatherlnc Threads. shirred, t h e
See page 4 threads drawn
up moderately
snug and securely tied in pairs, the pieces are ready
for the smocking stitches.
Each line of gathering must have a separate thread,
and each thread should be started at the right-hand
side with a double stitch to hold the knot so that it

will not slip through when the thread is drawn up.

In this illustration a coarse cotton has been used for
gathering in order to show clearly, but a stout sew-
iMWpp^ M^ i wi ^^^^Si— —^w^^^Ni^J^ i^a ^
ing cotton is all that is necessary. Fig. 5. Lines and Spaces Marked by Sewing
Machine. First Shirring Thread Being
Figure 4. —-This
illustration shows Fig. I with the Rln. See page 4
gathering threads drawn up. It is the wrong side of
the work. The right side, upon which the smocking 3 times the fullness — eight machine stitches to the

stitches are worked, presents a succession of folds. inch.

(See Fig. g.) 2'A times the fullness — ten machine stitches to the
inch.

The Sewing-Machine Method. — .'\s before stated,

it is of the greatest importance in smocking that the Figure 5 shows the lines of machine-stitching
work is perfectly prepared, as the entire beauty of with first shirring thread in process. study of the A
the work would be marred by imperfect lines in the principle involved discloses the various possibilities
shirring. To attain this perfection on plain material the method opens up for the work. With the excep-
the sewinii-macbiiie may be used formarking lines tion of some honeycomb designs and the foregoing
elemental studies in checks, all of the work shown

Fig. 0. .M.\rLkiAL Makkki. u iiH TKA.VMtk Dui;. Sec 1"ig. 7. Method of Marking BV Rvi-f.d Letter Paper.
page 5 See page 5
4

JUL 24 1916
in this book was done using this simple method of
the stitched lines. Indeed the writer has yet to use
any other method than this. On your sewing-
machine adjust the length of stitch according to the
requirements of the work, either long f<ir coarse or
short for line work. Let the prcsser foot guide the
spaces, and you can mark up your material correctly
and quickly.
Using this method i^ the only possible way to smock
on curves correctly. See Fig. 33 on pages 16 and
(

17.) A perfect circle ten inches in diameter was used

for the yoke shown. The entire piece of work was
stitched row after row, using the prcsser foot of the
machine to guide the distance between the lines. One
can readily grasp the principle of evenness of smock-
ing, and unless the machitie used is at fault, the work
must be correct. Crease a line or mark with a thread
just where the first stitch begins for each succeed-
ing row of stitching.

illll^
 three lines of double cable, if worked in colors, are
sufficient decoration for a child's play dress of blue
isiiiiiiiimii chambray or natural-color linen. On blue the colors
could be Turkey-red first row a blue different from
;

the dress, second row; and one shade of orange. On

natural-color linen dark brown, orange, and black
with a touch of green would be most effective. Thus,
/u\/iMi\/\>\nii^in'i/i(»/i'i!iiifiii/ at an e.vpense of a few cents, an otherwise plain
unattractive play frock is made a thing of beauty and
a joy to the small wearer.

i Fig. II. SiNGLii Cable Stitlii. Sec page 6

Figure 13.
The wave proper
Single and Double Wave Stitch.
consists of four stitches worked
—
gradually up and four stitches worked gradually
line and forms a band. Wlien u.sing shades of one down again in the outline stitch, and is worked from
color this simple border becomes quite elaborate and
can be worked thus The lirst row with the thread
:

kept below the needle the second row witli the thread
;

kept above the needle; the third row, as the first

row, with the thread kept ])e!ow the needle the ;

fourth row with the thread above the needle.

Figure lo. Double Outline Stitch. The braided —

effect shown by this sample is secured by working
two rows of outline stitch closely together over each
gathering thread in one row the thread being held
;

above the needle, and in tlie other below tlie needle.

Figure ii. Single Cable Stitch. This stitch is —

worked from and is very mucli like the
left to right Fig. 12. DofBLE Cable Stitch. See page 6
outline stitch. You start your thread at the gatlier-
ing thread on the wrong side of the material, secur- left to right. Start your thread on the second plait
ing your knot in the second plait, and bringing the on the right side of material as in outline, and work
needle up in the first plait on the right side of the to the line above, using one, two, three stitches, one in
material as in outline stitch. Take one stitch in every each plait with the thread below the needle going
plait, keeping the thread above the needle in the first up. Now with the thread above the needle take one
stitch and beknv the needle in the next stitch, then stitch on the line next to the third stitch up with
above the needle again, and so on to the end of the thread above the needle and work to the line be-
the line, keeping each stitch exactly on top of low, using three stitches gradually. Then witli the
the gathering t h r e a d. thread below the needle
take one stitch next to the
Figure 12. Double last stitch on the line

Cable Stitch. — T h i > and work again to the line

stitch is in order at this above, using three stitches
time, but the beginner is ^m;'i?i!!5ir^;iii and repeat. If your space
permits you can use four
advised to leave it until
she has acquired some of stitches in place of three,
the other stitches, as it and sometimes \'\ve or six
may be somewhat con- stitches, using two lines.
fusing. The double cable This depends on the pleas-
stitch is simply two rows ure of the worker and
of single cable worked the result to be attained.
closely
sliglitly
ing
together,
above the gather-
thread and the sec-
the first
Bh'nm^^' Two or more rows of
wave stitch may
worked one above
be
the
ond slightly below. Work other as in the illustra-
the first row as previously tion.
described (Fig. 11, Single
Cable), and in the sec- Figure 14. — Double cable
ond row reverse the or- stitch repeated in many
der of the thread above rows is extremely effective,
or below the needle. As especially when the work
the first row begins witli is done in shades of one
the thread above the color. Double C a 1) 1 e
needle, the second should when used in this manner
begin with the thread be- is most exacting, and no
Single a.vd Double Wave Stitch. bcc
low the needle. These mistakes can possibly be
page 6
6
permitted, as one false stitch throws all into confu-
This pattern is particularly good for a boy's
sion.
frock. The top and bottom rows may be black and
those between in color.
/HMIKUIfMliaill
A Double Wave or Diamond Wave is worked in
the same manner as the single wave, working the sec-

ilLflMcEllUIMlKfinn
:iimmmmmrn
Fic. 14. A Secom •'..NAMIM.K (IK Dmr.i.i- Caiii.i Stiti II.

See page 6

ond row of wave in the opposite direction from the

first rows, forming a diamond pattern as shown at
top and bottom of Fig. I.l.
This pattern used on a girl's simple play or school
frock would be charmingly distinctive if the mate-
rial was in pink and white stripe, either lawn, dimity
or madras, the stripes about one-eighth of an inch
wide. ."Xftcr stitching the lines on your sewing-
machine, gather for the work, taking up the white
lines and putting the pink lines in the backgroitn<l.
This gives a white space for smocking, which can be
done to advantage, using four shades of pink cotton,
j/Kiiiiiiiiiifiiiifiii
size S. Stitch about twelve rows for this pattern. On
the third row from the top line the double wave or
diamond shown in the design is worked. This de-
sign is good and more important-looking it four
stitches are used up and four down for the diamond.

l"lG. 15. IIIA.MO.M) StiTCM CoMlilN'Ell WITH SlNliLE AND

Double Outline, Figs. 8 and 10. See page 8

ii» .4vtl>- M> i|» .|> .• Practice a

the best.
little and determine which way you
diamond is com-
The second row of the
like

I i^iilKIV i|» >|» '|i menced on the fourth line and worked up to meet
the intersection of the diamond on the line above,
forming a complete diamond. By close study of the
illustration it is how this is worked.
made very clear
On the sixth line the single wave is commenced.
Securing the thread and starting as for the diamond
stitch, work from the sixth line to the fifth line the
I i|> ><v »1» »!•
*•• same number of stitches as in the diamond above,
j|» i|> ill''!' 'T >•» r making the same turn on the line, two stitches, one
Work as
up and one down, as in the diamond.
many rows as you are using shades of a color, and
finish with the same diamond used to begin the
design.
The work on the sleeve could be simplified using
one row of diamond, two rows of wave, one row of
diamond or simply one row of diamond is good
illlilllUlllllllltllllif :

here, with a row- of outline stitch each side of it.

It is safe to allow three and one-half times for
fullness used to smock in this manner.
Fig. i6. Feathered Diamond Stitch with Doi'ble
Rows OFOutline Top.anu Bottom. See page 8 A Curved Wave (see Fig. 19) is worked from line
of any gathering thread to the line above, using four lar uses. After marking the shirring lines on the
stitches, as in single wave- then three stitches on the
; sewing-machine shir the material, using the holes
line then four stitches down to the line below then
; ; made by the machine-needle in stitching the rows.
three stitches on this line tlien four stitches up to the
; A fullness of three times is desirable. On the first

line above; and as before, gathering thread work

three stitches on the line. outline stitch, then one row
It is important to remem- of one-half diamond; then
ber that in going up in all outline; then comes one-
forms of the wave thi' lialf diamond on the
thread is kept above the fourth row then outline
;

needle. Very little prac- again on the fifth row,

tice, and one acquires thus finishing the top of
this quite readily. The the pattern. On the
necessity of some practice seventh shirring thread
is urged upon the learner, begin the diamond stitch
before attempting gar- that forms the centre
ments. The curved wave band, using three stitches
is usually used double, up and three stitches down
the second row the same the one - half diamond.
the one line Work six rows, making
as first,

apart, as in Fig. ig. VJV\f\fV' live complete diamonds,

i f you wish a wider band
Figure
Stitch.
worked from
—
15.
The
Diamond
stitcli
left to right
i- wwia. lo
.Shades
used
more rows, of

throughout.
course.
of blue may be
The
-Start your thread a-- double outline is used, as
in previous directions. sliown in the bottom row,
Take one stitch in tin with diamond stitch be-
first plait over the gather tween. A
wise selection
ing thread, w'ith yom of materials and perfect
thread below the nei workmanship makes these
die. then one stitch in simple patterns charming.
the second plait beside The lower band consist-
the first stitch, with the ing of one row of diamond
thread above the needle. stitch with outline on
This is the same as the eitlier side is all that is

cable stitch. Next pass needed for the sleeves.

down half-way between
to
the and second gatli-
first Figure 16. Feathered
ering thread, and take one Diamond. — W'c
here have
stitch in the third plait one of the most desirable
with the thread above the stitches used in smocking,
needle, and another stitch the feathered diatnond. In
in the fourth plait beside appearance it is most elab-
the third with the tliread orate, and it lends itself

below the needle. Then especially to shaded work

pass up again to the first and where a solid elabo-
gathering thread and take rate effect is desired. .Ml
one stitch in the fifth plait workers are enthusiastic
with the thread below the over the possibilities of the
needle, and the stitch lie- feathered diamond, and in
side it in the sixth plait the working it grows rap-
with the thread above the idly, presenting few difii-

needle and continue to the

:
culties. It is really one of

end of the line. Be care- the easiest stitches to ac-

ful to take one stitch in quire and one of the most
every plait. This gives agreeable to make. This
one-half of the diamond. sample was worked i n
The other half of the dia- navy blue cotton No. 5 on
mond is formed by start- white linen eighteen rows ;
\' \iiN Ki' S n
I I'.i I \

ing on the second gather- OuTLiNK. (Fio. 8), Cahi-k (Fig. of stitching were required
ing thread and working AND Wave (Fig. 13) for the gathering threads.
up to half-way between the The first and tliird rows of
second and first gathering thread, so that the stitches smocking are in outline with feathered diamond com-
meet the first half of the diamond. menced on the fourth row of shirring at the right. It
This simple pattern looks well when worked on the is to be remembered that the feathered diamond is

cotton crepes so much in favor for lingerie and simi- one of three stitches that is worked from right to left.
 .

You begin by securing the thread on the second plait

LMfiiilJ
as usual, that the knot does not get loose and spoil w
the work. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the
•« tt l« "' **
•/ VV W
u «/ M »/ »/ V
right side of the goods on the first gathering thread.
Now take the first and second plaits together, keep-
ing the thread before the needle as in ordinary feather li !• r» •'
'^ " -i .? ; H M A
stitch; then one-half way between the lirst and sec-
ond gathering thread take the second and third plaits
together; then just escaping the second gathering
thread take the third, and fourth plaits together; the
thread as previously used before the needle. Then
up to one-half way between the first and second
gathering thread take the fourth and fifth plaits to-
gether; then on the first gathering thread take the
lifth and sixth plaits together: then down half-wax 1)e-
tween the first and second gathering thread take the
sixth and seventh plaits together; and continue in this
\» U «t *f
"' ^* ^» " *' '* ^- •.
manner to the end of the line. This is one-half of a
feathered diamond. The second row is worked simi-
larly, starting on the third gathering thread and work-
ing to meet the first half diamond on the second gath- *»
ering thread. Work until you have eight rows of
.. ; «* rt •* :; * ^ ,# )si
)k )* . 4
diamonds. Finish as in the beginning with two rows
in outline.

Figure 17. Vandyke Stitch. — This stitch is of

unusual beauty and importance and is one of the few
stitches worked from right to left. Start your thread

kiuiuill II II

IMKIIIIIUHtnilMnitlMIDMI
I'll., icj. Till; CiKVEu W'avk i.^ lltKi. Shown, and
Another \ ari.\tion of the Diamond Point.
llllrttlMlHlhliilfiililfHtMlH See page 12

on the second plait on the right-hand side of the

material in the usual manner on the first gathering
thread. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the
right side of tlie material. Pass the needle through
the first two plaits together, and take one over.
ft tt rt ft <l ft n jj « »\ \\ \\ \\ ^\ ^\ y\ \\ /I
Then come down to the second gathering thread and
take the second and third plait together with an-
other stitch over. Then up again taking the third
and fourth plait together with another stitch over;
and so on to the end of the line. If the space be-
tween the lines is wide enough, as when the shirring
is done by the transfer dot method, you can start
half-way lietween the two gathering threads and work
down or up to the lines. A space of half the distance
iKtween two gathering threads should always be left
\ •
V ' » ». f i.if f I'
after every line of this stitch when worked single.
'i r,

The Double Vandyke Stitch is simply two

rows of single \andyke stitch. Start your thread
nn the third gathering thread, working up to the
^econd gathering thread then down to the third ;

Slathering thread, according to the previous directions

Hiven for the single \'andyke.
The X'andyke and the double Vandyke are used
to advantage in points where either stitch has been
Fic. 18. 1'mi\i ,\oki,ii, in DiAMoMi SrircH o.s used in connection with the pattern above the point
CHECKtn DiMiTV. See page n ( See Figs. 26 and 28) The single V^andyke is at its
.
 Fig. 20. Blouse of Chkcked Dimity Smockf.u in Blue. See Detail Fig. 22 and page 13

best whenin a point. Onc-lialf a line or natcd across the line. Nothing is better than
space kept open between rows of single
is this simple line of stitches where an incon-
Vandyke, as shown. The double N'andyke spicuous separating line is desired. This
is used to good advantage to linish a pat- illustration was worked on a striped dimity,
tern, giving a fringe-like eflfect it can be
; lines stitched and spaces for stitches for
used where the \'andyke has been used in shirring gauged by lines in the dimity.
the pattern above it. Be careful to separate
different stitches or patterns by a row of The student in smocking who has mas-
outline or cable stitch otherwise,
; the tered of the preceding studies or illus-
all

beauty of the stitches is lost and a confused trations, may now have the satisfaction of
effect the result.
is being rewarded, as we are ready for work
There are only four stitches used in f)n every variety of garment permitting the

smocking that are worked from right to use of smocking. For blouses, handker-
left: the Feathered Diamond: the Vandyke; chief linen, crepe, chiffon cloth, etc., are
the little embroidered dot that is frequently favorite materials. Garden and sports smocks
worked between lines; also the Honeycomb are being reproduced for house wear in
stitch. Italian silk and crepe de Chine, voiles and
The illustration (Fig. 17) begins with a row other lovely materials. All sorts of lingerie
of single cable, which is really outline stitch are worked appropriately in this mode, and
with the thread reversed every other stitch. boudoir caps, matinees, etc., are included in
First the thread is below the needle then ; the list. Motor bonnets are seen smocked
above the needle then below the needle
; to advantage. In children's wear frocks
then above the needle. This row of single come first, and are made from six months'
cable followed by a row in single outline.
is size to the party frock for a miss of four-
The and attractive band separating
useful teen years with equally satisfactory results.
the single \andyke from the double Vandyke .^ lovely crepe for the house smocks comes
is placed between two rows of single outline, in part wool and part silk at a moderate
and is composed of stitches in double cable price, and when showing a dainty flower or
then a full diamond worked, using three dot of color, the smocking may be in the
stitches up and three stitches down. Then FiG. 21.Fagot- same colors with fine effect. A wider field
two double cable stitches followed by the dia- ing Stitch. for originality is seldom open to an inves-
mond stitch and these stitches are alter- See page 13 tigating mind.

10
 ,

coocc<c

^
'

' 1^

^ % I. I I. »?',
,>.' -II. »«-/- A* 01.
•1
II I'W

iiril^
N Blouse, Fig. 20

Figure i8. The Making of Points. Checked — ring and work to the second row to meet the tirst row
dimity was used lor speed in working. Kleven of diamond. (See Kig. 15.) This makes, as you see.
rows of shirring was used. This includes only two a perfect diamond.
row's of diamond in the point to be shirred. The new- Now holding your work so that the plaits are
idea in this illustration is the point in diamond stitch. perpendicular as shown, work the second diamond,
If the preceding studies and illustrations have been dropping one-half diamond on each side, or making
assimilated the worker is ready for the point, which each succeeding row one diamond less than the pre-
is made without shirring its full depth. .\ most im- ceding one. .As the eye is now trained to distance
portant time-saving demonstration, and one knows the requirements, it is

which the worker is urged to acquire. unnecessary to shir the point.

for
One goes readily through the liody Hold the work as directed, or secure
of the design, using first outline stitch, the top of the piece to a table or
then double cable, then outline in posi- other firm surface, using thumb-
tion shown, then our recent lesson in tacks and holding each fold where it
Vandyke is put into practice then
; would naturally be if shirred. Pull
outline and double cable and outline iLLio.N' .Stitch the plaits in place. It is advisable to
again I'mish the tody of the design; page 13 baste or sew firmly a piece of cloth
and here we encounter across the top of your
our point on the second work to use in pinning
row below the outline. it down with the thumb-
The first row of dia- tacks. In this way your
mond is worked from smocking is not injured,
line to line above across and jou can hold your
the line. The second plaits as tightly as is
row is worked in the necessary. One might,
same manner as the tirst if e.xperiencing difficul-
row except you begin on ties, practice a point by
the third row of shir- Fk;. 24. Reverse Over-a.n D-OvFj< Stitch. See page 13 itself.

11
 dots are worked from right to left. Two plaits are
taken together and two stitches taken over them.
Then the needle is carried under two plaits, and
in the ne.\t two plaits another dot is worked. The
point in this case begins with one row of full
diamond across the piece. This row of diamonds
is divided into spaces of six diamonds. As one
proceeds drop one diamond in every succeeding
row. one-half on either side. These two patterns are
charming and quite elaborate enough for all or-
dinary uses. Of course, if you fail to make your
t'oiiil without shirring, you will have to resort to
shirred lines until you are a more independent worker.

Spacing Points. —
There is no inflexible rule for
spacing points, as points are used large or small, as
suits the requirements of the work and the taste of
the worker. (See Figs. 18 and 19.) Count your
diamonds when across the line. Divide the number
c\enly if you can, or unevenly, if you must. Make
as many points as required, using the same number
of stitches in all. If you have twenty-five diamonds
you can have five points of four diamonds each,
leaving always a space between the points of one ilia-
mond in the first row. As rows increase the space
increases in proportion, as you drop one-half dia-
mond on either side as you proceed or narrow your
work. Suppose you find you have twenty-live dia-
monds in all; you must start four points of four
diamonds each, making twenty diamonds. Now you
ha\'e one extra rlinni'md In jir'i^-irlc f^ir nnrl rmi use

'oiM IN UiAMiiNii Smxii. hM-c

page 14

Figure 19 is again worked on checked dimity to

further illustrate the point. The outline and Vandyke
stitch are now old acquaintances, so we proceed to the
curved wave. This is much admired, and gives an
elaborate, unusual ai)pearance to a piece of work.
However, it is simple enough in execution. The
wave we have had and mastered (Fig. 13), and the
curved wave is very similar. Thus work from a
given line four outline stitches up to the line above;
then, curving very slightly, three stitches in out-
line are worked just above the line; then four out-
line stitches are worked down again to the tirst
line; then three outline .stitches are worked just be-
low this line, and then four stitches in outline again
to the line above; then the three in outline just above
the line. This is one row of the curved wave. The
second line is worked one space either below or
above the first line. In this case. Fig. 10, fifteen lines
were used or fifteen checks. The two rows of
\'andyke were worked and then the curved lines or
wave put. Between these lines is shown a row of I'lG. Jb, Pol.N'T IX V.\NnVKl: Stitch. See h'ig. 17 and
dots in a deeper shade than the waved lines. These page
12

ii
this in the ccntrt- or third point to advantage, as it
usually looks better to have the centre of the gar-
ment with a deeper point than the other points. Tlie
illustration shows a point of nine diamonds. Figure
19 shows a point of six diamonds, and one readily
understands that points are not arbitrary factors, but
are quite a<laptable.

Figure ao. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity. —

The blouse sliown is' smocked and embroidered in
three shades of blue. Two threads of stranded cot
ton were used throughout.
Waist and sleeves are of the checked dimity, with
collar, cuffs, and vestee of handkerchief linen
edged with applied hems of the dimity.
The materials used were as follows : Three yards
checked dimity 5 skeins stranded cotton
; ; Idozen
buttons ;
'
yard handkerchief linen, for collar,
.>

vestee, and culTs. The applied hems w'ere finished

on their edges with a reversed over-and-over stitch
(see Fig. -'4), and joined to collar, cuffs, and vestee.
using the fagoting stitch with buttonhole stitch
down the centre, as shown by Fig. 21. The illus
tration does not convey an adequate impression of
the charming color and stitch combinations. A use-
ful linish liaving very good effect was the simu-
lated buttons or .spiders on either side of the blouse
front worked in two shades of blue. (See Fig, 51,
page 26.) No detailed description is needed of these
stitches, as the illustrations are perfectly comprehen-
sive. To make the sprays of embroidery a spool is

I'oiNr i.v Dorni.i; \'\\ii\ki STiTi 11. .See

Fig. 17 and page 16

used to curve the stems that are marked with a pen-

cil and worked in outline stitch. The budlike ef-
fect of the bullion-stitch embroidery is secured by
taking three stitches in bullion stitch, winding the
thread si.x times around the needle. (See Fig. 23.)
The centre stitch can be in a deeper shade, with
charming effect.
The smocking pattern across the top of the waist
fronts where attached to the yoke is shown in detail
on page II. .\ny waist pattern may oe used which
proviiles for gathered fronts att.iched to a shoulder
yoke, allowing for a fullness of three times, if checked
Fig, -7. Jahot Showim; \ Practicai. Ai-imji ation 0¥
Point in Dia.mdnd or Vasuyki; Stitch. dimity is used (as in Fig. I). If plain material is

See. page 16 used, an<l shirring threads marked by sewing-ma-

13
 gun for the points, working to the si.xtecnth
line six and one-half times across the line;
the seventeenth line is worked to the six-
teenth line, completing the diamond. Work
across the line. (See detail of diamond stitch.
Fig. 15.) The following rows of diamonds
forming points are worked w'ithout shirring by
holding or fastening the work in a manner to
retain plaits already formed. This method
possesses the added virtue of leaving the mate-
rial free from shirring marks as well as being
a time-saver. I never mark a point except
when doing honeycomb work.
The finishing ornaments at the tip of the
point are in bullion stitch taken three times,
with the thread wound seven times around the
needle. The needle used should be round
eyed, as this sort has no enlargement at the
eye and allows the stitch to slip easily ofT the
needle. Otherwise the stitch is spoiled.

Figure 25. —
The illustration shows a design
suitable for women's frocks and blouses, or for
children's frocks. Whenused on a crepe de
Chine frock or blousethe sinocking stitches
may be worked in silks of the same shade with
a very good effect. The illustration shown was
(lone with white cotton on plain pink madras.
The sewing-machine w-as^^used to secure the
lines and spaces, and in this case the point
was also worked, using the shirred lines. Stitch

Fig. 29. HoNEvco^rr! Smacking Dom; un liA.\D-Rux

Ticks. See page 17

chine method, allow for fullness according to tahle

on page 4. Beginners are advised to try a sample
of the goods they wish to use for fullness, before
beginning a blouse.

Figure 22. —
This illustration shows in detail the
work done on blouse shown on the previous
the
page, and a description of the stitches will not be
given, reference to preceding directions being
deemed sufficient. Nineteen rows of shirrings were
made for the smocking of the fronts, using every
second cord of the dimity, giving a fullness of
three times. The first row is outline stitch the ;

second row double cable, which is two rows of

single cable; the third row is outline; the fourth
row is a curved wave, beginning on the fifth line
and working to the fourth line; the fifth row is the
second of the curved wave, beginning on the
sixth line and worked to fifth line, four stitches
up, one on each of four plaits, three above the
line, and four stitches down to the line below see (

illustration for proportions) just meets the line

in the curve (see direction for curved wave. Fig.
19); the sixth line is outline; seventh line is
double cable; eighth line is outline; ninth line is
Vandyke worked down the tenth line
to tenth ;

line just meets the line, leaving room for tin-

lower Vandyke to join on the line eleventh :

line, worked to the tenth line, is Vandyke, mak-

ing double Vandyke; twelfth line is outline: thir-
teenth line is double cable; fourteenth line is out- Fio. JO. M.\i H I \ I -S ( \i<i: .\i.>o
line. On the fifteenth line the diamond is be- Kl.CO.M .ML.NUtU bee page 18
14
on your sewing-machine twenty-four lines.

Do the preparation for tlie snioclcing stitches

as shown by Kig. 5, page 4. Draw up the
shirring threads, secure them pull the work
;

into place and work the lirst row in single

outline stitch (see Fig. 6, page 4)- Work
the second row in single cable stitch across
the line (see Kig. 11); the third row in
single outline stitch across the line. On the
fourth gathering thresd work a wave or
half-diamond, using three stitches up and
three stitches down (see Fig. 15), working
down to the fifth line. This gives one-half
of the diamond, as shown in the illustration.
(The wave and the half-diamond are fre-
quently the same thing, depending on its
application.) The second row of diamond
stitch is worked, beginning on the sixth
gathering thread, and down to the seventh,
as shown by Fig. 15, page ". Reversing the
points on the seventh gathering thread work
to the eighth, as on the line above. This
secures a wave efTect on either side of a
diamond. This is often named the double
diamond.
This idea can be carried out in any num-
ber of stitches, thus increasing tlic size of
the wave and of the diamond, and several
rows of \va\e can be worked. When doing
shaded work this idea is extremely desir-
able. Thethree lines following this pattern
show single outline, cable and single out-
line, as in the beginning of the illustration.
Now we have a point worked in the dia-
mond stitch, using two stitches, one up and
one down. Work one full diamond across

lie. Ji. CniLo's Lung Chat ok White 1'rench Sf.R(.k.

See page 18

the line; then divide the line, as is shown in the illus-

tration. Work row after row in diamond drop-
stitch,
ping one-half diamond at each side of every row thus ;

you narrow to a point. This is an excellent piece of

work for a beginner in smocking to practice on for
plain and shaded work, and to firmly establish the
principle of the point. In working the diamond point,
one applies the same principle as in the cliamonds in
the centre of the middle row.

Figure 26. —
Here we have the Vandyke stitch, both
single and double. The double Vandyke is shown in
line row of the band, with the familiar and useful
i.utlinc on either side. The single Vandyke forms the
point. The mastering of this illustration is most essen-
tial at this time, as used connection with the pre-
in
\ious illustration (Fig. 2.^). The detail of the Van-
dyke stitch is given on page 8, Fig. 17, and need not
be repeated here. This point, as shown, was worked
on stripc<l dimity. The lines were stitched on the
I'lG. jj. Det.ml of Smocki.ng on Child's Coat sewing-machine and the cords in the material used
IS
for spacing the
s t i t c li e s .

Thirty-
one rows were
used and the
point begun
with twenty-
one stitches. A
space of one
line ob- was Fic. 3.?. An ExAMi
served between CuRVKK Lines, thk i

each row, and THE Number or I

one - half stitch Sc
was dropped on
either side as
the work pro-
gressed, as in
every case in
making points.
The value of
shading is well dem-
onstrated in such
work as this, and
makes beauty in
for
an unusual degree.
Commence at the base
of the point with the
darkest shade and work
lighter toward the tip.
Smocking, to be desirable,
need not of necessity be ex-
tremely line in quality or exe
cution. Just good work and ^r-
good designing with suitability in
application are the requisites.

Figure 27.— The jabot illustrated is o-

a dainty affair, and possesses much

beauty of workmanship. The material of ''^^.

handkerchief linen, edgc<l with thread lace,

was ably supplemented by the dainty smocking
work, in shades of violet, two threads of the six-
strand cotton being used. The embroidery shown
I'n point and in the centre of the jabot was in French
.stem stitch and Inillion stitch. Stem stitch is a running
stitch covered with over-and-over stitch. The bullion stitch
was taken three times with the thread wrapped seven times d'

around the needle, forming tiny budlike effects, with the centre _j_..
stitch of a darker shade. This our illustratinn shows plainly. .\ piece ^"^.
of linen fourteen inches square is required the bottom is slanted from two
:

inches on each side of the centre (see illustration). The top of the jabot was
prepared for the smocking stitches by using the sewing-machine, eight stitches to the inch.
Six rows were stitched. The lirst row is worked in single outline. The second row is in
single row single outline: the fourth row single outline: dots are worked between the third
Vandyke; the third
and fourth rows, as shown. The fifth row is in single outline —
and single Vandyke stitch is worked between
the fourth and the lifth rows. The sixth row is one-half diamond (see Fig, 15, page 7), and the point in
diamond or Vandyke stitch, as preferred. The seventh row is one-half diamond, making a full diamond.
Four full diamonds are worked across the line. The point consists of diamonds, one-half diamond dropped
on either side until the point is reached.

Figure 28. —
Here we have a very important illustration, showing the Vandyke stitch in connection with
the featlicred diamond. Twenty-seven rows were prepared, using the sewing-machine fur marking the lines
and spaces. Six stitches to the inch gave the size of the plait. The work being prepared, on the tirst gathering
thread work single outline on the second and third gathering threads single Vandyke third and fourth single
; :

Vandyke: the fifth row single outline. Tlie fifth row shows outline again. The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth,
and tenth rows show feathered diamond to goc)d advantage (see Fig. l()l. The eleventh line is single outline,
and now we have our point in double Vandyke, worked once across the line in full \'andyke and then divideil
16
 ;

into points, as
shown, of fonr-
tfcn full Van-
dyke stitches.
Any number
of stitches can
lie used that
urved Lines are liked. This
stitch covers
Done on the work with
»F Smocking
Row Havi.nc DoillLE a lacelike ef-
R
; OF THE Inner Row fect, and must
Se 18 not be worked
too tightly. The
stitch is not as
elastic as others
but it is of great
beauty, the rich-
est point in smock-
ing. slow exe-
Its
c u o n deters
t i

workers from using

it generally, yet the

finest quality of work

frequently shows this
beautiful point.

Honeycomb Smocking.
— Tins is undoubtedly the
firstform of the smocking
stitch, and is the stitch most
frequently seen on women's
dresses and coats, and to a
considerable extent on children's
garments. For a very handsome
illustration, see Fig. 31.
There are several different methods
of preparing material for honeycomb
smocking, and all ways lead to the same
result.
Material marked with dots, as I'ig. 7, may be
shirred or not, as preferred, for it is perfectly
feasible to work the stitch on the dots without
shirring.
Begin work on second row of dots at upper right-
\ hand side.Fasten thread securely so that it will not pull
w' through. Rring needle up through second dot, take first and
^ second dots together, then over once again in lirst dot, pass needle
up back of material to first row and take second and thinl dots together
in same way. Down again to second row and take third and fourth dots
together. Then to first and take fourth and fifth dots. In other words, the dot
vertically parallel to the one last worked becomes the first in the succeeding stitch. A
point begins with any number divisible by two or four and ends with two dots (see Fig. 7).

—
Figure 29. This illustration shows a method of preparing material for ihe honeycomb stitch, which is at
every woman's command — hand-run tucks run or basted into place. The tucks are measured as when doing any
hand-tucking, the space between the tucks determining the size or width of the diamond. Use a card to measure
for the length, which should be about the same as the width from point to point.
Honeycomb smocking done on tucked material is worked from the Ujt side from top to bottom. Take first
and second tucks together, over again, bring needle down inside second tuck to one-half the depth of the diamond,
take second and third tucks together and one stitch over. Come down full length of diamond, take first and
second tucks of diamond, take first and second tucks together as before, then second and third tucks again and
—
repeat the length desired. One row of work gives two rows of dots. 2d ro7c Take third and fourth tucks
together, once over, come down one-half width of diamond and take fourth and fifth tucks together, and continue
—
length desired. .?</ roti' Take fifth and sixth tucks together, one-half diamond down take sixth and seventh
tucks together, then fifth and sixth, and so on. The diamond should be oblong in shape when finished, although
the material for each diamond is square.

17
 Figure 30 gives which sliiiw the embnjidered scallops matching the
still another varia- embroidery on the collars. Feather-stitching at the
tir>n for preparing Iienis still further decorates this desirable coat for baby.
r'**'*^ N»^.' '?<•«.«'<*.••', the I'.oneycomb
,-V^'V smockini?. In this Figure33. —
To smock on any line except a perfectly
case the tucks were straight one has not heretofore been accomplished;
stitclied on the with the one exception of the Bishop model and in ;

sewing machine,
- that solitary case it has not been entirely successful.
using the tucker In this illustration is shown what can be accomplished
i'>r the purpose. on the curve when using the machine-stitched lines.
Ibis is recom- You cannot possibly smock on a curve when using
mended when an any other method. Heretofore patterns have con-
amount of smock- formed to their intended decoration when smocking
ing is to be made, was to be used, and the result has been a noticeable
as it is absolutely uniformity of outline in garments showing this em-

Fic, ,^4.

Stitchus
Used on
Slef.vf, of
Fig. 35
right and
works
q u i c k 1 \- .

Here again
one iises the
card to
measure the
depth of the
d i a lu ond.

Use tucker
as for all

tucking,
one - eighth-
inch t u c k,
one - eighlli-
i n c h space,
and so on.

Figure 31.
— Here we
.

show a prac
tical applica-
tion of hon-
e y c o m 1>

s m o c king.
The w o r k
was done in

this case on
stitched
lines. The
points were
stitched to
,VT. ' 11 111' - S-. SlloUIXI. Sm xc.
the depth
I

t URVEIl Ll.M i' 34 and 30, and page "J

,i?> iV.
desired, and
the smocking quickly done with great precision. bellishmcnt. a n d
but little progress ^."
Figure 32 shows honeycomb smocking enlarged. The has been made ^<
coat has a yoke, to wliich the smocking is joined, and
the yoke is covered by the deep collar. The smocking
With
of
the
embroidered
adveni X' "V y "V
is done on the back as on the front, and the upper smocking, using
collar is in two pieces, back and front alike. the stitched lines, Fig. 36.
I'lii- 35
The sleeves are smocked above the turn-up cuffs. these conditions

18

I
have been altered, and Siiiocking
has gained tremendously in pupii-
larity ;as in using this method
one can do smocking wherever
one can stitch a hne.
In preparing the material for
the illustration, a perfect circle of
ten inches in diameter was
stitched on white sateen, using the
sewing-machine for' lines and
spaces. Twelve rows were stitched,
the circle widening
to twenty
inches, successive row, of
each
necessity, having many additional
stitches and plaits, the last row
doubling the first row. The points
after the tirst two rows of dia-
monds were free-hand work or
folds held in position from pre-
vious stitches. In smocking onr
is not likely to meet such a neces-
sity as this : but the illustration
ismost useful as an example, ami
can be imitated in a moditied form
in many instances. The break in
the stitches caused by the increas-
ing number of plaits is handled,
using outline stitch to divide
the rows, thus permitting the use
of the increased number of plaits.
This is a piece of work much ad-
mired. It is unusual and a bit
difficult. It is necessary in dnin;,'
work like this that the material

. .57- AnoI IIIl<r.l-lhil'IIKI --, M Ml ( 1 1 1 K

Dimity .\.\i> S.vincKtu in Sh.\ui;s Pink.
See Fig. 38 and page 20

be well covered by the stitches, as unavoidably the folds

or plaits are irregular. The stitches used are single out-
line on the lirst line, double cable on the second line,
one-half diamond on the third line, and double cable on
the fourth line. Following this are four lines of wave,
using three stitches up and three stitches down for the
wave. .After these one row of full diamond, and then
points made in diamond stitch. It will be noticed that
the points vary in size two points on either side begin
;

with seven diamonds each, and two points in the centre

of the work begin with ten diamonds each. The color
used for working was navy blue, but shading would im-
prove this or a similar pattern very much.
Figure 35. Child's Bishop Dress. —
This practical
and attractive little frock shows the Bishop or peasant
model familiar to every mother. It is similar to our
previous illustration in outline and again the neck
;

curve is pronounced and we apply the same princi-

Fig. 38. Det.ml of S.mocking o.\ Child's Dress,
ple in preparing the work, viz. the stitched lines and
:

Fig. 37 The smocking

spaces being used to fine advantage.

19
 \va\c ill three slitclios. Ihe edges
of tile ccillar ami cuffs show the
doiililc ovtr-anil-over stitch (Kig.

24, page II), and are further or-

namented with little embroidered
spiders ( Kig. 51, page 26). This
frock was also made worked in
shades of red, and was more
elaborate in appearance, owing to
the shading. One makes a great
mistake when one economizes on
materials, as ordinary material
,i;ieatly detracts from tlie best
work, rendering it undesiralile. It
is better to err on the side of ex-
travagance in material. The hand-
made cord and tassels which
lace together the collar points give
a touch of distinction.

Figure 37. Child's Dress. —

Here we have the Hishop model
again in a different material and
treatment. This little frock is in
fciur-vear-old size, and is very
dainty. The material is cross-bar
dimity, very fine, and the smocking
is dune in shades of rose-color.

Fig. 39. English Smuck Model ihr LSov. See Figs. 40 and 41 and page 21

work on yoke, This little frock has a

Fig. 36, con- Dutch neck and elbow
sists of three sleeves ; a four-inch
rows of single hem, and a bit of rib-
cable. one row bon-run lace beading
of wave in at neck and sleeves
three stitches, completes the detail.
one full dia- Two yards of dimity
mond in three and four skeins of cot-
stitches, one ton were the inaterials
row of wave in required for this little
three stitches, frock.
three rows of The illustration
single cable, shows clearly the detai
three rows of of the work on Fig.
wave as above. 37. The neck curves,
The smocking and was therefore
on the sleeve. stitched for lines and
Fig. 34, shows spaces. Twelve lines
two rows single were required, as the
cable,one row points were made free-
full diamond, hand. The first row
two rows sin- was single cable ; the
Fig. 40. Detail of Smocking on gle cable, and second row, one- •"11;. 41. Df.t.ml of Smocki.ng
B.^cK OF Fig. 39 three rows of half diamond; the o.\ Front of Fig. 39

20

%
 F'lo. 42. Blouse uf Fink Ciikckkd I-'rexch Dimitv Smik-ki:i) and Embroidekko in Shames ok Blue. bee
detail, Fig. 43. and page Ji

third TOW, single caMe : the fourth row. dots ; the quite distinctive in the right place. The back of the
fifth row, cable; the sixth, seventh, and
single garment shows smocking in the centre to match the
eighth rows wave in three stitches the ninth row.
; smocking on the fronts. (See Fig. -.j.)
single outline tenth and
: eleventh rows, double
Vandyke: twelfth row. single outline; thirteenth row. Figures 40 and 41. — Figure 40 shows the detail of
full diamond. The points in front began with six smock in the back. Figure 41 gives detail of the
diamonds. The points on the sides began with five smocking on the fronts. The first row is diamond;
diamonds. For points in diamond stitch see Fig. 18, second row, single cable; third row, diamond; fourth
page 9. and fifth rows, single cable; sixth row, diamond; and
the seventh row, wave in four stitches, worked so as
Figure 39. English Smock. —
In this play frock to meet the row of diamond. The dotted transfer
for a boy we show an Miin1ish smock model. Every was used to mark up this piece of work and lines
small boy would be well garlied in such a play gar- were wide apart a^ seen.
ment as this comfortable and indestructible smock.
The material was a stout Scotch madras, golden Figure 42. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity.
brown in with smocking of a different color;
color, — Here we show a beautiful piece of work and a
blue in this case. This garment, well buttoned up in charming and useful garment. The -material used was
front, the turn-over collar and cuffless sleeves with a French dimity in a fine check, and the smocking
bit of stitchery at the wrist, is as simple as one could threads were shaded from navy to very light, in five
possibly imagine. It is moderate in price, and looks shades of blue, six-stranded cotton, two strands being

21

\
used for the smockiiiR. The sleeves are elhow length, The material, checked dimity, was smocked to the
as shown, with smocking above a wide turned-up desired depth, as shown in w-hite work above the
cuff. These cuffs and the collar have rolled hems, blue band. The blue band, as shown by I'ig. 44. was
and then plain linen bands are added. Fagoting joins worked, the first row in single outline the fourth ;

this linen edge or hem to the collar and cuffs. (See and fifth double vandyke; then single out-
rows in

Fig. 21 page lo, for detail of this work.) The line, and double cable and single outline followed
embroidered with three rows of wave. Above this band the ma-
sprays, etc., are terial is held in place, as shown, by rows in single
in outline stitch cable stitch, worked with fine white cotton. This is
and bullion a good idea and disposes of undesirable fullness in a
stitch. The novel manner. The fidlness below the blue band is
curves are held by tucks that are ornamented and held in posi-
shaped, using a tion by bullion stitch, which is another good idea.
spool and pen- No sewing is done otherwise; in other words, the
cil. The simu- tucks are not held by a running stitch, as is usually
lated buttons the case.
are made
in a
spider-web ef- Figure Child's Princess Panel Frock. This
46. —
fect. (See Fig. unusual model made still more attractive by the use
is
,ii.>\f(lu\((iv,>l}lj,,,ViVy,>* page 26, for of smocking stitches in shaded effect. Blue was the
51,
detail.) color chosen for ornamenting this little frock for a
\\ssuimJ)^ The prepara- girl of six years. The material was English checked
tion for these dimity; turn-over collar, topped by a band of Irish
smocking stitch- crochet, riblion run, holding in place the low Dutch
es was done neck. Embroidered scallops and bullion-stitched dots
by taking
u p decorate the collar and cuffs, and the panel front also
checks one- shows sprays of embroidery done in bullion stitch in
eighth of an shades of blue. The sleeves are finished with turn-
inch apart and over cuff's and some smocking is above the cuffs. The
fifteen rows of panel is finislied with fagoting worked in two shades
shirs were re- of blue between two rows of outline stitch; this fagot-
quired, as the ing extends around the waist of the dress to the back.
entire shaded
band at the
finish in o n e-
Fig. 43. Uetaii. of Smockinc
Blouse, Fig. 42 h a I f diamond
Di'
stitch is done
free-hand without shirring; the folds simply held
in place. When one
has progressed as far as
this waist, this free-hand work is natural, or ought
to be. However, this very waist was the garment
a pupil took as a first lesson and this pupil
;

excelled her teacher, too. The detail on page 22,

Fig. 4.^, shows the work fully and gives an idea of
the shading. F'urther explanation is entirely super-
fluous.

—
Figure 45. This very pretty and stylish waist
was designed and worked by a pupil as her first ef-
fort in smocking. The material was cliecked dimity,
and the work was done using dark blue round
thread cotton No. 20. The high collar is worn with
a stock and turn-over of embroidery. The sleeves end
in straight cuffs or bands with some bullion-stitch
on them. The distinctive features of this waist are
two The white smocking at the neck above the blue
:

smocking, and the tucks below the smocking. These

tucks are edged with double over-and-over stitch
and dotted with bullion stitches. The sleeves also
show original treatment, .^bove the smocked band
that is seen above the elbow are tucks again thus ;

undesiral)le fullness is eliminated. .Attention to de-

tail,combined with an artistic sense, made of a very
inexpensive garment a thing of beauty. This waist
opens under the side plait in front. The back is
tucked and no color or smocking is used. The detail
of work on the blouse is shown on page 22, Fig. 44. h'u:. 44. Detail of Waist, Img. 45

22
 ig. 44 and jiaye JJ

Figure 47 shows the detail of the smocking stitches wave are worked without preparation, work simply
on Child's Frock, Fig-. 46. The elalwrate effect is se- being held in place.
cured by the shading and the work being fine. How-
ever, it is extremely simple, as only three or four Figure 48. Child's Frock.— This little frock
different are used, viz.
stitches the first line is in
: shows pink shades in the smocking stitches and bul-
single outline; the second line in double cable; the lion embroidery is used to further decorate the gar-
third line, single outline; the fourth, fifth, and sixth ment. This embroidery lends itself especially well
lines are used for the double Vandyke; and the where smocking is done. Cross stitch also is very ap-
seventh line shows single outline again. From the propriate and much used in little floral designs.
eighth line worked twelve rows of wave, using
is Pretty linen dresses and play frocks are shown in
three stitches rather close together and shaded from colors, embroidered with birds and animals in lovely
dark to light. (See the illustration.) These lines of colors on the collar and cuffs. These are verv un-
23
usual, and liigli class when tlie embroidery is done of stitches and the quality of the work, as well
in cross stitch or Kensington stitch. Our little as coloring combined to make this a very pretty
frock has thrce-and-one-lialf-inch tucks worked in frock, and well wurtli the task nf making.

Fig. 46.
Princess Pankl
Child'
Fkuck or
DlMITV
^»^>JH>ij w y V M ^ V V V «<f (f*^
SmoCKI;!!
BROIDKREI) IN
OF Blue.
page 22
A.Nl)

See
Em-
SHADES

Figure 50. Garden Smock.—

outline stitch in shades as Leaving frocks for a time, we
shown. The material is fine show in this illustration one of
handkerchief linen. Two and the garden smocks so much in
one-half yards are required. favor. The usefulness and com-
The sleeves show tucking and it fort embodied in this model are
serves to subdue the fullness, as well known, and from a modest
well as adding to the appearance. beginning these smocks have
A four-inch hem, a bit of ribbon grown in favor until now some
and one yard of X'alencicnnes of them are sumptuous affairs.
;i<;^^*;<«^^^^
lace, and some Irish inser- When such materials as Italian
tion linish the frock. (Sec silks and pussy willow silks, also
Fig. 49.) cripe de Chine are employed,
these smocks are delightful.
Figure 49 gives the detail of .\mong materials a silk and cot-
the work on Fig. 48. The ton, and silk and wool crepe, are
stitched method was used for favorites and also moderate in
preparing for the work, ten rows price. Take one of these
being required. As the points crepes in white, smock it in
Flo. 47. Uktaii. of Fic. 4D
were free-hand, the arrangement a favorite color, put on a

24
 :

striped collar and cuffs in silk

to match the smocking
stitches and a plain white
sash, one has a most distinc-
tive garment and it launders,
;

too. A white Italian silk had

pale lemon smocking, with
just a touch of green and
black stitchery. A collar and
cufifs showed stitches fn these
colors. The sash of the Ital-
ian silk, with the ends cross-
stitched a bit in the same
colors was charming.
The model shown was de-
veloped in coral pink crc-pe
the collar, cutTs. and belt were
in white crepe ; all the stitch-
es were worked in colors,
shades of some black
pink,
and white. The garment was
laced in front in true smock
fashion. White crepe buttons
over ivory molds were
worked in spider effect in
shades of pink. (See Fig.
51.) Figure 52 gives the de-
tail of the stitches used
on the belt, collar and cuffs,
consisting of an outline in

l"io. 48. .\,mjthek Mooti. Kok .\ Chii.ii's FkiK k. See detail, Fig. 49, and
page 2.5

1)a c k
1 and midway between the shoulders to match that on the
bu ttonhole- fronts. The illustration shows an effective combina-
stitches in tion of the different colors.
two shades of We read of smocks and smocking in Queen .June's
pink on either time and earlier, and a description of garments
side. The smocked in golden threads and in silver on silk and
work is all satin has an attractive sound. With each revival of
easy to do a mode progress made, and in embroidered smock-
is

and fascinat- ing this era has made an important advance. Be-
ing to a de- sides, embroidered smocking is purely .\merican, and
gree. now one can smock anything and in any grade, as
This gar- fine as possible or the reverse.
ment a has
yoke to which
th e Smocked Figure 53. —
Sports Smock. This sports smock
fronts are at- was developed in blue crepe cloth with crepe for col-
tached. The lar, cuffs, and belt. A row of outlining in heavy silk
back is in one and double over-and^over stitch is the decoration on
Fig. 49. Detail of Fig.
piece with the collar, cuffs, and belt. Buttons with embroidery
smocking are seen tm the fronts and on the belt. The
25
 tion of simple stitches used
on the Child's Parly Frock,
Fig. 56. The upper part of the de-
sign is worked around the skirt.
The lower part of the design is on
the top and bottom of the waist
front. The work on the sleeves
is the same as on the skirt. Eight
lines were stitched for the skirt.
On the was worked dou-
first line
ble cable on the second, third, and
;

fourth lines is worked the wave,

using four stitches up and four
down: the fifth line, double cable.
The point is worked in diamond,
two stitches up and two stitches
down, worked across the line,
then divided into uneven num-
bers. Make the points in even
numbers, leaving one diamond be-
tween each point. The smock-
ing on the waist consists of —
first line, double cable; second
line, dots; third, double cable;
work fourth, fifth, and sixth lines
wave in four stitches w'ithout
preparation. Figure 55 shows
t h e smocking
stitches in de-
tail.This is ex-
tremely simple
work, and the
Ioloring, shades
of rose, is very
4ood. The
ilimity also is

of the best, and

the lace at the
neck and
sleeves gives an
additional fin-
ish a very
to
pretty frock for
a four - year - Fk;. 52. Detail
old. The sim- OF Stitch Used
ulated buttons in Fig. 39-
Fir.. 50. Spokts Smock of Coral Pink Emukuiukkko in Siiai>i;s of Pink
are in the now See page 25
Black, and White. See page 24
familiar spid-
.smocking is done in wliite, (See Fig. 54.) er's web. Indeed they are used on sleeves, at neck
and in the back, for this frock is the same in work
—
Figure 54. This illustration shows the detail of back and front. The
the smocking stitches used on Fig. 53. Twenty-one sleeves are laid in
rows were stitched on the sewing-machine for lines tucks, doing away
and spaces. Seven stitclies to the inch were used. with unnecessary
After the usual preparation, smocking stitches fullness. Cords
were worked as follows ; First row, single outline and tassels are of
second row, two douhle cahle and one full diamond tlie same cotton as

across the line; third row, single outline. Three rows used for the smock-
of wave, using three stitches up and three stitches ing stitches. This
down follow, and then on the eighth line we work model has been
cable stitch across five times, forming the band. A much admired, and
band in feathered diamond, of six rows or five full looks very simple
diamonds, comes next, followed by a band of cable, when worn, It is a
as in the beginning of the pattern ; single outline. pretty party or (lanc-
double cable and diamond and single outline finish ing school frock
the design. Fig. 51. Button Wokkku in for a small maiden.
Figure 55. —
• This detail shows the combina- Spider Web The frontispiece

26
Fici. 53. Sports Smuck oi- Blul Cklpl vvirii Wiiiii-. Cullak. CutFa, and Belt. See detail, I'ig. 54, and page ^5

shows another pretty adaptation of this simple smock- stitch,the next shade for the double cable stitch on
ing design on a child's party frock. either side and. commencing with the darkest, use all
Three sliades of a color are recommended for this three shades for the points in diamond stitch, ending
pattern, either rose or blue, as preferred, and two or witli the lightest shade at tlie tips. The clusters of
three threads of stranded cotton are best adapted for bullion stitch which finish the tips of the diamond-
working. Use the darker shade for the lines of wave- stitch points should be in the darkest shade.

27
 skirt and the under-arm seams are covered with the
same fancy stitch.

Figure 56. —
Child's Party Dress. (See Fig. 55.)
Tlic material selected for this little frock was fine-
(luality English dimity, with a stripe of three cords,
the plain space being equal in width to the corded lines.
There are si.x corded lines to the inch, and these cords
or corded lines were used in shirring for the smocking,
taking each line for one stitch and omitting the plain
spaces. To secure straight and even spaces for these
shirring lines ihe sewing-machine was used —
an ap-
plication of the stitched method mentioned many times
in the descriptions of work in this book. .'Ml that this
or similar cases demand is straight lines to guide the
shirring. .\ long loose stitch can be used on the
nmchino.

•:^'-*^a».>:^>^>j^cx>e

>*r

i-*::-.*.**.^

\XX* Vj(V>
w
¥
4

^wZ^^OiSQi
Fig. 54. Detail of Smocking, Fig. 53

Mention has been made of tlie simulated buttons in

spider-web stitch. Thebars are worked directly into
the material, and the spider-web then woven on the
bars is illustrated on page 26, Fig. 51. Use the darkest
shade for the bars and the lightest for weaving.
This is a particularly pretty model for the small
!pV V v^ V V ^ V
FiG. 55. Detail of Stitches. Double Cable, Wave,
child, and any simple cutting pattern may be used \Nn Diamond as used on Fig. 56. See page 29
which has set-in sleeves and an attached gathered or
plaited skirt, allowing for the e.xtra fullness of material —
Figure 57. In this illustration we have a new
required for smocking, as described in the introduc- feature; indeed, two new features, — the double dia-
tory chapters to this book. If a wide hem is allowed, mond wave and buttonhole stitch. The is worked
piece
the skirt can be easily lengthened to accommodate the on madras and stitched linesand spaces were used for
growing child. preparation. Si.xteen lines were stitched, using seven
Neck and sleeve edges are finished with bands of the stitches to the inch. Work was drawn up, pulled into
fagoting stitch, illustrated on page 10, outlined on botIi place, and smocking commenced on the first line in
edges with a darker shade. The joinirg of waist and single outline; on the second line, single buttonhole

28
stitch on the third line, single cable stitch on the
; ; manner, keeping the points directly in line with those
fourth diamond stitch, using two stitches down
line, of the small diamond wave and meeting it at every
to the tiflh line and up to the fourth line, down to other point. This gives one-half of a double dia-
the tilth line and so on across the work. On the sixth mond pattern. The second half of the double dia-
line diamond stitch is worked up to the fifth line, mond is worked the same as the first half, ex-
down to the sixth line, up to the fifth line, forming cept that it is reversed. The buttonhole stitch on
a full diamond. Three more rows of diamond stitch the second line is the same as used in embroidery.
are worked in the same manner, forming a band
in diamond. On the ninth line is worked a row of Figure 58. —A honeycomb diamond used in connec-
single cable. The double diamond wave consists of tion with a band or otlicr stitchery is somewhat out of

Fic. 56. Chilu's P.\kty Dress of Stkipeu Dimity Smockeu i.s Sh.mjes or Ko^t. See l"ig. 55 and page 28

one row of diamond wave outlined top and bottom the ordinary in appearance. It looks attractive, and is
by a row of stitches twice the numlier used for the desirable where a small or fine honeycomb pattern can
small diamond, joining the small diamond on every i)e used. Such a pattern furnishes the often-needed
second point as shown. It is best to work the small finish for a piece of work in honeycomb stitch. This
diamond first, leaving spaces above and below for illustration was prepared, using the sewing-machine
the large diamond, or upper and lower lines shown. for lines and spaces, and the stitch was worked from
Note the illustration carefully. Work from the thir- right to left.
teenth line to the twelfth, using three stitches, down Now, honeycomb stitch can be worked in several
to the thirteenth, and so on across. For the outer row ways. It is the only smocking stitch so adaptable.

of wave commence on the twelfth line and work to the The various illustrations in this book fully illustrate
second line above (tenth) and down again in same this principle. (See Figs. 29 and 30 on page 14, Fig. 32
29
on page where the work was prepared and worked,
15, working an embroidered dot. Then from the wrong
using tucked method
the —
tliesc examples being side come down to the second line; bring your needle
worked from left to right.) When using the dot or through the third plait. Take tlie third and second
transfer method, the work can be done working from plaits together twice as before. Then from the wrong
side again pass up to the tirst line. Take the fourth
and third plaits together twice and proceed across the
line. The second row is worked from the third line
to the second line, forming a diamond. Do not draw
your thread too tight in passing from stitch to stitch,
as it detracts from the elasticity of the work.

Figure 59. Apron. — An apron smocked is not so

new as pretty, and this one is of unusual excellence,
as it provided with three capacious pockets. This
is
apron obviously intended for a sewing-apron.
is

The material required is one and one-half yards, one

yard wide. Dimity was used in this case. The strings
and added hems were cut crosswise on the goods.
Usually this is not a, good plan to follow, but in this
case it was done. The pockets are simply turned up
and feather-stitched to make the divisions. Feather-
stitching is used on all edges, to hold the hems, etc.,
in place. The sprays arc in outline and in bullion
stitch, l-'ig. 23. The smocking was done on lines secured
by taking up the checks every other one. Eight rows
were used. The points were done freehand. The
siuocking pattern is clearly shown in Fig. 58. The
apron shows a small bib decorated in keeiiing with the
balance of the apron. Straps or brelelles can be used
in place of the bib, if desired, and similarly decorated.
Tlie apron shown is extremely attractive when taffeta
silk is thematerial selecteil, and, of course, silks used
for the smocking stitches. Rose-colored stranded cot-
tons were used in the case of the apron shown, and
two threads at one time, -^ny smocking pattern pre-

•iG. 57. A (iiKii) Smockin'g Pattern, Showing Two

New Features, Double Diamond Wave and

Buttonhole Stitch. See page 28

either left or right, but the diamond is best secured

with tw-o stitches over, worked from right to left, as
in the case of the dot used liy embroiderers. Circum-
stances govern the method used for working the
honeycomb stitch. The material may be gathered, and
the stitch taken on the folds, or the stitch worked on
the dots without the preliminary gathering.
In working from left to right, using the dot r1

transfer metliod. the progress is slow, and the work

is not well secured, although leaving a cleaner piece of

work on the wrong side. However, the right side of

smocking is the side that interests most workers.
The band commencing this design has been described
several times, and we refer to page 8, Fig. 17. Tt

consists of one row in outline, one row in double cable

and single diamond in combination then outline
;

again. Fourteen rcnvs in all were stitched and shirred

in the usual manner for this design. Using this
method, the needle carrying the shirring-thread is put
into the holes made by the machine-needle. In the FlG. 58. HoNKVniMl! SmoCKINC. IN' OlMlllN'ATlON \M T II

succeeding rows the folds or plaits so secured are SiMPLF. Stitchks. See page -'8
exactly followed, tlie lines marked by the sewing-
machine being the width of the presser-foot apart. ferred can be used, and many forms of embroidery
Begin the honeycomb band on the fourth row at the stitches also are properly used.
right end of the work. Secure the thread on the first
plait on the wrong side, bringing the needle up to the —
Figure 60. The first row is single outline; second
right side through the second plait. Take the first and row, single outline; third row, single outline; one-half
second plaits together with two stitches over, as when diamond is worked between the first and second and
30
second and third lines. The curved wave,
worked in outline stitch ( Fig. 19, page 9).
occupies a space of live lines working four ;

stitches up with the thread below the nee-

dle, three stitches across the line, thread
helow the needle four stitches down, with
:

the thread above the needle, and three

stitches on the line with the thread above
the needle ; then four stitches up to the
fourth line and three stitches across the
line as before. Xc.xt row is worked in the
same manner from the line below, and dots
are placed in the centre, working from the
ripht hand. The sixth and seventh lines
are single outline with one-half diamond
worked in the space between the two lines.
One row of full diamond is worked below
this, as the preparation for the point. These
diamoiuls are (livi<lcd into unequal num-
bers for instance, they are divided into five
;

diamon<ls, and the point is commenced four

diamonds, as the space of one diamond is
always left between the points after the
first row is worked. See illustration.) .\ny
(

number of diamonds can begin a point,

that can be suitably spaced.
In working the points on this apron, it is
a good plan to work from each end, puttiui;
any uneven spaces in the centre point,
which may contain one or two diamonds
more than the others. Count off your dia-
monds and spaces in the first row, and be
governed by what you have. There is U"
arbitrary law about these things. The
worker can use her judgment in the matter,
making the points large or small.

Frontispiece (page j). — This illustra-

tion shows how charming the little smocked
Fic. 59. .Apron with Po( kf.ts. See detail Fig. 60, and
page 30

frocks are for children. On this garment smocking

is used only to secure the fullness at the top of the
i:;^^::^;^;::?©^^ skirt and on the sleeves. The waist portion is em-
broidered in the same color as the smocking, and
Irish crochet lace is used for neck finish and bead-
ing at the waist line. The e<lges of sleeves and the
frills on the waist are finished with the reverse over-
and-over stitch (Fig. 24, page 11), also in color.
The smocking pattern is very similar to that
shown in detail by Fig. 55, page 28.

—
Laundering Smocking. Use a good soap. Ivory
preferred. W'a-h by luind quickly, rinse thoroughly,
and do not starch the smocking. Let the garment
hang in the air long enough to partly dry; roll it in
a clean cloth and let it remain for about one hour;
then iron as usual, only do not iron your smocking.
Gently pull it into its original position. After all
this done the smocked portions of the garment
is
can be placed right side up over a Turkish towel,
f(ddcd several times and lightly touched with a warm
iron. When the smocking is finished, it can be held
over an inverted iron with the wrong side of the
smocking to the iron, as in steaming velvet; this
stiffens the plaits. It is never advisable to boil or
Fig. 60. DiTAii. hf Vir.. 50 scald a garment that is worked in colors.

31
 Pattern for the Transfer Dot Method of Marking for Shirring
Threads as described on Page 5
REPARE a working pattern by placing thin paper desired by moving the paper along, using the last row
over pattern of dots below, marking dots with of dots as a key to keep the subsequent rows even.
pencil, and transfer to material by means f carbon The points at the bottom are of use chiefly in Honey-
paper placed face down between working pattern and comb Smocking. (See page 17.) In making addi-
material, using a pencil or any blunt-pointed instrument. tional points, repi at from two vertical centre lines of
The working pattern may be made any length or depth dots in middk oint as manv times as desired.

itP -229 32
 A for EVERY
Book
Kind of Fancy- Work
Priscilla Books are genuine Fancy-work teachers. Each book
has a wealth of descriptive text, also scores of sharp, clear
pictures which show just how to make the stitches and motifs
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Fancy-work with the aid of Priscilla Books.
Price, 25 Cents Each, Postpaid
Priscilla Irish Crochet Book No. 1. This book has all the stitches and
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No. l.Thirtv-five differ- Priscilla Filet Crochet Book No. 1. Gives a variety of patterns in floral,
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Priscilla Crochet Edsings and Insertions Book.
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PRISCILLA charming designs are
Priscilla Neltins Book, One of our most handsome Books. Shows Crochet Book carried out by unusual
nearly 100 of the prettiest designs ever published. Full directions for methods.
plain and embroidered netting,
Priscilla Cross Stitch
Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book, The designs in this book take Up the work Book. Has nearly two
from the beginning, all the tools and materials being fully described. Beau- hundred working pat-
tiful designs are given for Torchon, Cluny, Russian and Bruges laces, with terns. Many are suit-
full directions for working. able for bead work.
Prucilla Battenberf and Point Lace Book. Here are practical, illustrated
There are also six
directions for making lace.
alphabets and direc-
Each step is taken up. Over one hundred tions for all kinds
stitches are shown, both simple and complicated.
of canvas work.
Priscilla Basketry Book. Gives simple and complete instructions for mak-
ing all sorts of bags, baskets, hats and novelties in reeds and raffia.
Priscilla Bead Work Book. The most complete and comprehensive book on Bead Work
ever published. Contains a large assortment of illustrated designs for bags, purses, card
cases, necklaces, pendants, chams, girdles, hair ornaments, etc,
Priscilla KnittingBook. This is a most useful collection of patterns for knitting, consisting of a
wide variety of attractive articles for men, women and children. Articles in wool predominate.
Priscilla Wool Crochet Book. Illustrates articles in wool crochet for men, women and children.
Comp'ete directions.
Priscilla Cook Book, Contains 442 dainty, appetizing and practical recipes by the famous culinary
expert, Fannie Merritt Farmer.
PriscillaHelps for Housekeepers, Contains a collection of Everyday Housekeeping "Helps "garnered
from the experience of nearly 500 practical Priscilla housewives.
"^^^ Priscilla Juniors' Library is a new, and so far as we know the
Rrk<-klra
OUUIVS i-rtWlOr r^Vtilrlron
V^llliureil oni» Fancy-work Instruction Books for children. Instructions are
given in the simplest of language. Profusely illustrated. These books now ready. Priscilla Juniors'
Crochet Book; Priscilla Juniors' Basketry Book: Priscilla Juniors' Cross Stitch Book; Priscilla
Juniors' Colored Cross Stitch Book. Price, 15 Cents Each, Postpaid.

Priscilla Publishing
85 Broad Street, Boston, Meiss.
Company
DO YOU EMBROIDER ?
If like Embroidery, Crocheting, Tatting, Knitting, Weav-
you
ing, Basketry, Stenciling or any other kind of Fancy Work,
subscribe for

r/^r
MODERN PRISCILLA
TH£ NATIONAL FANCY V/ORK MAGAZINE
The Modern Priscilla is a profusely illustrated
monthly magazine, brimful of lovely designs and
interesting new ideas for needleworkers. It gives
you the newest and prettiest designs for Em-
broidery (every variety); Crochet (all kinds);
Tatting, Knitting, Basketry, Bead ^Vork, China
Painting, It is an ever growing encyclopedia of
feminine handicrafts. It teaches you to make
dainty, useful, wearable articles for yourself,
your children, your home and your friends.
IN ADDITION to "Fancy Work" each
issueof TheModern Priscilla contains
an "Everyday Housekeeping" section
designed to meet the needs of the
man^ rather than the needs of the few.
No shooting over readers' heads" in
'

this department —
just plain, labor
saving, time saving, money saving
housekeeping helps for everyday use,
and Iota of 'em. Good stories. The
Modern Priscilla has also, and a
dress fashion department that is
up-to-date, but not extreme.
More than half a million other
women are already enjoying'The
Modern Priscilla, many of v^'hom
say they could not keep house
without it. and we believe you
would find it just as enjoyable as
they do.

Subscription Price
$1.00 Per Year
What two women say
'*/ think The Modem
PriaciUa the bestwoman'tt
paper published. I read
mine from one ruver ta the
other mill do not under-
Bt-and /iiiw any one can
get alonu without it "
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