Suspension Chevy Beretta 1990

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 98

Suspension & Steering

 Front Suspension

FRONT SUSPENSION
Print

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

The Corsica and Beretta use MacPherson strut front suspension designs. A MacPherson strut combines the
functions of a shock absorber and an upper suspension member (upper arm) into 1 unit. The strut is
surrounded by a coil spring, which provides normal front suspension functions.

The strut bolts to the body shell at its upper end, and to the steering knuckle at the lower end. The strut
pivots with the steering knuckle by means of a sealed mounting assembly at the upper end which contains
a preloaded, non-adjustable bearing.

The steering knuckle is connected to the chassis at the lower end by a conventional lower control arm, and
pivots in the arm in a preloaded ball joint of standard design. The knuckle is fastened to the ball joint stud
by means of a castellated nut and cotter pin.

Fig. Fig. 1: Front Suspension Component Location


Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front suspension components - 1988-90 vehicles
Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the base and direct acting front suspension system components - 1991-96
vehicles
Advantages of the MacPherson strut design, aside from its relative simplicity, include reduced weight and
friction, minimal intrusion into the engine and passenger compartments, and ease of service.
WARNING
When servicing suspension components always install drive axle boot protector J-33162, in order to
prevent damage to the drive axle boot.

Front Engine Mount Crossmember


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1991 2.3L Engine Only

See Figure 1

1. Install overhead engine support, J 28467-A or equivalent.


2. Remove the front engine mount upper nut.
3. Carefully raise the engine, making sure to follow the tool manufacturers instructions.
4. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
5. Remove the front engine mount-to-crossmember nuts.
6. Remove the engine mount crossmember with the front engine mount.
7. Separate the engine mount from the crossmember.

Fig. Fig. 1: 1991 vehicles equipped with the 2.3L engine utilize a front engine mounted crossmember as
part of the front suspension
To install:

8. Place the engine mount crossmember into position with the front engine mount.
9. Install the crossmember plates through the suspension supports, then loosely install the nuts.
10. Position the front engine mount to the crossmember and loosely install the nuts.
11. Carefully lower the vehicle, then lower the engine.
12. Remove the engine support tool.
13. Install the front engine mount upper nut to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
14. Tighten the lower engine mount nuts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) and the engine mount crossmember
plate nuts to 40 ft. lbs. 54 Nm).

Front Hub and Bearing and Steering


Knuckle
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7

WARNING

You will need a special tool to pull the bearing free of the halfshaft (drive axle), GM tool no. J-28733 or
the equivalent. You should also use a halfshaft boot protector, GM tool no. J-33162 or the equivalent to
protect the parts from damage on cars equipped with the 2.0L engine and boot protector J-34754 on all
other engines.

1. With the vehicle weight on the tires, break the hub nut loose.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Install a boot cover over the outer CV-joint boot.
4. Remove the brake caliper and support it aside (on a wire); do not allow the caliper to hang on the
brake line.
5. Remove the rotor.
6. Remove the hub nut.
Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the hub nut from the vehicle
7. Unfasten the hub and bearing mounting bolts.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts
8. Remove the brake rotor splash shield.
9. Install J 28733 or equivalent hub puller tool, then turn the bolt and press the hub and bearing
from the halfshaft.
Fig. Fig. 3: Attach a suitable puller to the hub and bearing to separate it from the halfshaft

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the vehicle
10. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower control arm.
11. Remove the cotter pin and the ball joint-to-knuckle attaching nut.
12. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using J 29330 or equivalent tool.
13. Remove the halfshaft from the knuckle and support it aside.
14. Matchmark the strut in relationship to the knuckle, for alignment purposes and remove the strut-
to-knuckle attaching nuts.
15. Remove the knuckle from the strut.
16. Using a brass drift, remove the inner knuckle seal.
Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the hub and bearing and steering knuckle assemblies - 1988-90 vehicles,
1991 similar

Fig. Fig. 6: Hub and bearing and steering knuckle mounting - 1992-96 vehicles
To install:

17. Clean and inspect the steering knuckle bore and the bearing mating surfaces.
18. Lubricate a new seal and the bearing with a high temperature wheel bearing grease, then using a
driving tool, install the seal in the knuckle.
Fig. Fig. 7: Use a suitable driver to install the knuckle seal
19. Connect the ball joint to the knuckle and install the ball joint-to-knuckle attaching nut, hand
tight.
20. Position the knuckle to the strut and install the attaching bolts. Align the matchmarks and tighten
the attaching bolts to 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm) for 1988-90 vehicles, and to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm) for
1991-96 vehicles. Tighten the ball joint-to-knuckle attaching nut to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) for 1988-
90 vehicles, and to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus 60 degree rotation for 1991-96 vehicles.
21. Install a new O-ring between the bearing and knuckle assembly.
22. Install the splash shield, hub/bearing assembly, to the knuckle and install the attaching bolts.
Tighten the attaching bolts to 67 ft. lbs. (90 Nm) for 1988-90 vehicles and 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) for
1991-92 vehicles.
23. Remove the boot cover from the outer CV-joint boot and slide the halfshaft into the knuckle
assembly.
24. Install the hub washer and attaching nut, (use and new nut) on the halfshaft. Tighten the
attaching nut to a partial torque of 71 ft. lbs. (100 Nm), at this time.
25. Connect the stabilizer link to the lower control arm.
26. Install the brake rotor, caliper and the wheel/tire assembly.
27. Lower the vehicle and final-tighten the hub nut to 191 ft. lbs. (259 Nm).

Lower Ball Joint


 INSPECTION
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

INSPECTION

1. Raise and safely support the front of the car, allowing the suspension to hang free.
2. Grasp the wheel at the top and the bottom and shake it in an in-and-out motion. Check for any
horizontal movement of the steering knuckle relative to the lower control arm. Replace the ball
joint if such movement is noted.
3. If the ball stud is disconnected from the steering knuckle and any looseness is detected, or if the
ball stud can be twisted in its socket using finger pressure, replace the ball joint.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Only a lower ball joint is used in each lower arm. The MacPherson strut design does not use an upper ball
joint.

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. With the vehicle on the ground, break the lug nuts loose.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Use a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) drill bit to drill a hole through the center of each of the 3 ball joint rivets.
4. Use a 1 / 2 in. (13mm) drill bit to drill completely through the rivet.
5. Use a hammer and punch to remove the rivets. Drive them out from the bottom.
6. Use the special tool J-29330 or equivalent ball joint removal tool to separate the ball joint from
the steering knuckle (see illustration). Don't forget to remove and discard the cotter pin.
7. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm, then remove the ball joint.
Fig. Fig. 1: Lower ball joint removal and installation - 1988-90 vehicles
To install:
8. Install the new ball joint into the control arm with the 3 bolts supplied as shown and tighten to 50
ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
9. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.
10. Tighten the castellated nut on the ball joint to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) and use a new cotter pin.
11. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
12. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop to have the toe setting checked and adjusted if
necessary.

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5

1. With the vehicle on the ground, break the lug nuts loose.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Place jackstands under the suspension supports.
A. Carefully lower the vehicle slightly, so the weight of the vehicle rest on the suspension supports
and NOT on the control arms.

4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

WARNING
Care must be taken not to allow the tri-pot joints from being over extended when either end of the shaft
is disconnected. Over extension could result in separation of the internal components.

5. Install modified inner drive axle seal protector J 34754, to prevent possible boot damage.

WARNING
Failure to use the recommended tool could result in ball joint and seal damage.

6. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint and separate the ball joint from the steering
knuckle, using tool J 29330 or equivalent.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove and discard the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut ...
Fig. Fig. 3: ... then remove the lower ball joint nut

Fig. Fig. 4: Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
7. Use a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) drill bit to drill a hole through the center of each of the 3 ball joint rivets.
8. Use a 1 / 2 in. (13mm) drill bit to drill completely through the rivet.
9. Use a hammer and punch to remove the rivets. Drive them out from the bottom.
10. Unfasten the nut attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft.
11. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle and control arm.

To install:
12. Position the ball joint to the control arm and install the bolts and nuts as shown in the ball joint
kit. Tighten to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
13. Insert the ball stud through the steering knuckle and install the ball joint nut. Tighten the nut to
26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) plus an additional 60 degree rotation for 1991 vehicles, and to a minimum of
41 ft lbs. (55 Nm) and a maximum of 50 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) for 1992-96 vehicles.
Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the replacement ball joint assembly - 1991-96 vehicles
14. Install a new cotter pin.
15. Install the nut attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)
for 1991 vehicles, except GTZ models, and 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) for 1991 GTZ models and all 1992-
96 models.
16. Remove the modified inner drive belt seal protector.
17. Slightly raise the vehicle and remove the jackstands from under the suspension supports.
18. Install the tire and wheel assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
19. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment checked.

Lower Control Arm


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 CONTROL ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
2. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the control arm and/or support, as outliner earlier in this
section.
3. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using tool J 29330 or equivalent.
4. Remove the 2 control arm-to-support bolts, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
5. If control arm support bar removal is necessary, unscrew the 6 mounting bolts and remove the
support.
Fig. Fig. 1: When installing the lower control arm (front suspension support), always follow the proper
tightening sequence
To install:

6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


7. Tighten the control arm support rail bolts in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
8. Have a reputable repair shop check the toe and adjust as necessary.

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figure 2

1. Break the lug nuts loose, then raise and safely support the vehicle.
A. Place jackstands under the suspension supports.
B. Carefully lower the vehicle slightly so the weight of the vehicle rest on the suspension supports
and NOT on the control arms.

2. Remove the wheel and tire.

WARNING

Care must be taken not to allow the tri-pot joints from being over extended when either end of the shaft
is disconnected. Over extension could result in separation of the internal components.

3. Install modified inner drive axle seal protector J 34754, to prevent possible boot damage.
4. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint and separate the ball joint from the steering
knuckle, using tool J 29330 or equivalent. Discard the cotter pin.

WARNING

Failure to use the recommended tool could result in ball joint and seal damage.

5. On 1991 models equipped with the 2.3L engine only, install overhead engine support, J 28467-A
or equivalent and remove the nuts attaching the front engine mount crossmember to the
suspension support.
6. Remove the bolts attaching the suspension support to the vehicle.
7. Remove the bolts attaching the control arm to the suspension support.
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the lower control arm and suspension support assembly - 1993 shown, other
years similar
To install:

8. Position the control arm and loosely install the bolts attaching the control arm to the suspension
support.
9. Place the suspension support into position, guiding the ball joint into the steering knuckle and
loosely install the bolts.
10. Install the nuts attaching the stabilizer shaft clamp to the suspension support and tighten to 17
ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
11. On 1991 models equipped with the 2.3L engine only, install the nuts attaching the front engine
mount crossmember to the suspension support and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
12. Install the nut attaching the ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
plus a 60 degree rotation for 1991 vehicles, and 41-50 ft. lbs. (55-65 Nm) for 1992-96 vehicles.
13. Install the nuts attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17
Nm) for except GTZ models and 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) for GTZ models.
14. Remove the modified drive axle seal protector.
15. Slightly raise the vehicle and remove the jackstands from under the suspension supports.
16. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
17. On 1991 models equipped with the 2.3L engine, remove the overhead engine support, J 28467-A
or equivalent.
18. With the vehicle at curb height, tighten the suspension support attaching bolts, as follows:
A. For 1991 vehicles, tighten the rear first, center second and front third, to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
B. For 1992-96 vehicles, tighten the center first to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm), front second to 65 ft. lbs. (88
Nm) and rear third to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

19. With the vehicle at curb height tighten the control arm attaching bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) plus
an additional 60 degree rotation.
20. Check the front end alignment.
CONTROL ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT

See Figure 3

Lower control arm bushing replacement requires the use of Front Control Arm Horizontal Bushing Service
Set (J 29792) and Front Control Arm Rear Vertical Bushing Service Set (J 39971) or equivalent tools.
1. Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle.
2. Coat the threads of tool J 29792 with an extreme pressure lubricant.
3. Install the bushing removal tools, as shown in the accompanying figure.
4. Remove the control arm bushings.

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of front and rear lower control arm bushing removal
To install:
5. Install the lower control arm bushings. To make installation easier, coat the outer casing of the
new bushing with a suitable lubricant.
6. Install the lower control arm in the vehicle, as outlined earlier in this section.

MacPherson Struts
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 STRUT MODIFICATION
 OVERHAUL
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION
The struts retain the springs under tremendous pressure even when removed from the car. For these
reasons, several expensive special tools and substantial specialized knowledge are required to safely and
effectively work on these parts. We recommend that if spring or shock absorber repair work is required,
you remove the strut or struts involved and take them to a repair facility which is fully equipped and
familiar with the car.

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. Open the hood , then unfasten the upper strut-to-body nuts.


2. Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the suspension to hang
free.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Install drive axle seal protective cover, tool J-33162, or equivalent.
5. Use a 2-jawed puller, tool J 24319 or equivalent, press the tie rod out of the strut bracket.

When removing the strut assembly, make sure to support it before removing the strut-to-body nuts.
6. Remove both strut-to-steering knuckle bolts and carefully lift the strut out of the vehicle.
Fig. Fig. 1: Upper and lower strut-to-body attachment - 1988-90 vehicles
To install:

7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


8. Tighten the upper strut to body nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Be sure that the flat sides of the strut-
to-knuckle bolt heads are horizontal (see illustration) and torque to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 2 and 3

1. Open the hood, then unfasten the nuts and bolt securing the top of the strut.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove any retainers blocking access to the upper strut nuts
Fig. Fig. 3: Unfasten the upper strut-to-body retaining nuts
2. Break the lug nuts loose, then raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the suspension to
hang free:
A. Place jackstands under the front suspension supports.
B. Carefully lower the vehicle slightly so the weight of the vehicle rest on the suspension supports
and NOT on the control arms.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

WARNING

Care must be taken not to allow the tri-pot joints from being over extended when either end of the shaft
is disconnected. Over extension could result in separation of the internal components.

4. Install modified inner drive axle seal protector J 34754, to prevent possible boot damage.
5. Remove the brake line bracket.
6. Remove the cotter pin and nut, then separate the tie rod end from the strut assembly, using tool J
24319-01 or equivalent 2-jawed puller to press the tie rod out of the strut bracket. Discard the
cotter pin.
7. Scribe the strut flange as follows:
A. Using a sharp tool, scribe the knuckle along the lower outboard strut radius.
B. Scribe the strut flange on the inboard side along the curve of the knuckle.
C. Make a scribe mark across the strut/knuckle interface.

8. Unfasten the strut-to-knuckle retaining bolts, then carefully remove the strut from the vehicle.

See FIgures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9

WARNING

When removing the strut from the vehicle, be careful to avoid chipping or scratching the spring coating.
Damage to the coating could cause premature strut failure.
Fig. Fig. 4: You can use an awl to scribe the strut assembly in the areas shown

Fig. Fig. 5: You must scribe the area around the lower strut mounting bolts for alignment during
installation
Fig. Fig. 6: Unfasten the two lower strut assembly mounting bolts

Fig. Fig. 7: Support the strut assembly, then remove the lower mounting bolts
Fig. Fig. 8: After removing the retainers, maneuver the strut assembly out of the vehicle

Fig. Fig. 9: Exploded view of the strut mounting - 1991-96 vehicles


To install:

9. Place the strut into position and hand-tighten the nuts attaching the top of the strut to the body.
10. Align the steering knuckle with the strut flange scribe marks and install the bolts and nuts and
tighten to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).
11. Position the tie rod end into the strut assembly, then install the nut and new cotter pin. Tighten
the nut to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) for 1990-92 vehicles, or to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) for 1993-96
vehicles..
12. Tighten the nuts and bolt attaching the top of the strut assembly to the body to 18 ft. lbs. (25
Nm).
13. Install the brake line bracket.
14. Remove the modified drive axle seal protector.
15. Slightly raise the vehicle and remove the jackstands from under the suspension supports.
16. Install the tire and wheel assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.
17. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment checked.
STRUT MODIFICATION

This modification is made only if a camber adjustment is anticipated.

1. Place the strut in a vise. This step is not absolutely necessary; filing can be accomplished by
disconnecting the strut from the steering knuckle.
2. File the holes in the outer flanges so as to enlarge the bottom holes until they match the slots
already in the inner flanges.
3. Camber adjustment information is located later in this section.

OVERHAUL

CAUTION

The coil springs are retained under extremely high pressure. They can exert enough force to cause serious
injury or even death. Exercise extreme caution when disassembling the strut for coil spring removal.

This procedure requires the use of a spring compressor and several other special tools. It cannot be
performed without them. If you do not have access to these tools, DO NOT attempt to disassemble the
strut.

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 10

1. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.


2. Clamp the spring compressor, tool J-26584, in a vise. Position the strut assembly in the bottom
adapter of the compressor and install the special tool J26584-400 (see illustration). Be sure that
the adapter captures the strut and that the locating pins are engaged.
3. Place the top adapter, J-26584-430, on the strut cap. Note that the adapter has drilled holes
designating each specific vehicle.
4. Using a 1 in. socket, turn the screw on top of the compressor clockwise until the top support
flange contacts the adapters. Continue turning the screw until the coil spring is compressed
approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm); 4 complete turns. Never bottom the spring or the strut damper
rod.
5. Unscrew the nut from the strut damper shaft and place the J-34013-27 alignment rod on the top
of the damper shaft. Use this rod to guide the damper shaft straight down through the spring cap
while decompressing the spring.
6. Turn the compressor adjusting screw counterclockwise until the spring tension has been relieved.
Remove the adapters and then remove the coil spring.

To assemble:

7. Clamp the strut compressor body J 26584 in a vise.


8. Position the strut assembly in the compressor using bottom adapter J-26584-400. Make sure the
adapter captures the strut and the locating pins are engaged.
9. Position the spring on the strut. Make sure the spring is properly seated on the bottom of the
spring plate.
10. Install all shields, bumpers and insulators on the spring seat.
11. Install the spring strut seat assembly on top of the spring and make sure they are centered
together and aligned properly.

Fig. Fig. 10: Coil spring and strut assembly - 1988-90 vehicles
The ends of the spring coil are to be located within 0 to 10 mm from the end of the groove in the upper
insulator and 10 to 15mm from the end of the groove in the lower insulator.
12. Place the top adapter, J-26584-430, on the strut cap. Lower the compressor to capture the cap.
Pull up the damper rod to full extension and clamp in place with J-34013-20.
13. Insert alignment rod, J-34013-27 through the bearing and spring caps and position on top of the
damper rod. Compress the spring and guide the damper rod through the bearing cap using the
alignment rod during compression.

WARNING

During compression of the spring be sure to use the guide rod to guide the shaft through the exact center
of the bearing. If the threads of the damper rod catch on the bearing cap and prevent the rod from
passing cleanly through the bearing, stop compressing immediately. Decompress the spring and begin
again.

14. Compress the spring until approximately 1 in. (25mm) of the damper rod protrudes through the
bearing cap. Do not compress the spring any further. Install and tighten the nut to 59 ft. lbs. (80
Nm).
15. Remove the damper rod clamp J-34013-20.
16. Back off the spring compressor and remove the strut assembly.
17. Install the strut in the vehicle.

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 11 through 18

WARNING

When removing or overhauling the strut, be careful to avoid chipping or scratching the spring coating.
Damage to the coating could cause premature component failure.

1. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.


2. Mount strut compressor J 34013 in holding fixture J 3289-20.
3. Mount the strut into the strut compressor. Note that the strut compressor has strut mounting
holes drilled for the specific vehicle.
Fig. Fig. 11: Make sure the strut is properly mounted in the compressor assembly
4. Compress the strut about 1 / 2 its height after the initial contact with the top cap.
5. Remove the nut from the strut dampener shaft and place guiding rod, J 34013-27, on top of the
dampener shaft. Use this rod to guide the dampener shaft straight down through the bearing cap
while decompressing the spring.
6. Disassemble the strut and spring components.

WARNING

NEVER bottom the spring or dampener rod.

Fig. Fig. 12: Be EXTREMELY careful when compressing the spring assembly
Fig. Fig. 13: It may be necessary to use a back-up wrench to loosen the dampener shaft nut

Fig. Fig. 14: Remove the strut mount


Fig. Fig. 15: Remove the strut dust shield

Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the spring lower insulator


Fig. Fig. 17: Remove the spring upper insulator ...

Fig. Fig. 18: ... then remove the jounce bumper from the insulator
To assemble:

7. Install the bearing cap onto the strut compressor, if previously removed.
8. Mount the strut into the strut compressor using the bottom locking pin only. Extend the
dampener shaft and install clamp J 34013-20 on the dampener shaft.
9. Install the spring over the dampener and swing the assembly up so that the upper locking pin can
be installed. Install the upper insulator, shield bumper and upper spring seat. be sure the flat on
the upper spring seat is facing in the proper direction. The spring seat flat should be facing the
same direction as the centerline of the strut assembly spindle.
10. Install the guiding rod and turn the forcing screw while the guiding rod centers the assembly.
When the threads on the dampener shaft are visible, remove the guiding rod and install the nut.
Use a crowfoot line wrench, while holding the dampener shaft with a socket and tighten the nut
to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
11. Remove the clamp.
12. Install the strut assembly in the vehicle.

Stabilizer Bar
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. Open the hood, then install engine support tool J 28467, as instructed by the manufacturer.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front lower control arms to hang free.
3. Remove the left front wheel and tire.
4. Disconnect the stabilizer shaft from the control arms.
5. Disconnect the stabilizer shaft from the support assemblies.
6. Loosen the front bolts and remove the bolts from the rear and center of the support assemblies.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the stabilizer shaft and bushings - 1988-90 vehicles
To install:
7. When installing the stabilizer, loosely assemble all components while insuring that the stabilizer
is centered, side to side.
8. Tighten the stabilizer shaft to stabilizer link nut to 14 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) and the stabilizer clamp
nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
9. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front lower control arms to hang free.
2. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Unfasten the nuts attaching the stabilizer shafts to the stabilizer links.
Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the stabilizer link retaining nut and bolt
4. Remove the stabilizer shaft-to-suspension support clamps.
5. Remove the bolts from the rear and center of the support assemblies, then loosen the front bolts.
6. Remove the stabilizer shaft with the insulators from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the stabilizer bar (shaft) mounting - 1991-96 vehicles with the base
suspension system
Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the stabilizer shaft and related components - 1991-96 vehicles with the
direct acting stabilizer system
To install:

When installing the stabilizer, loosely assemble all components while insuring that the stabilizer is
centered, side to side.
7. Position the stabilizer shaft with the insulators, into the vehicle.
8. Install the clamps securing the stabilizer shaft to the suspension support assemblies and hand-
tighten the retainers.
9. Place the suspension support assemblies into position, then install the retaining bolts hand-tight.
10. Install the nuts attaching the stabilizer shaft to the stabilizer links and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17
Nm) for 1991 vehicles, except GTZ models and to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) for 1991 GTZ models. For
1992-96 vehicles, tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. for vehicles with the base suspension and to 70 ft. lbs.
(95 Nm) for vehicles with the direct acting suspension.
Fig. Fig. 5: Tighten the stabilizer link retainers
11. Tighten the suspension support bolts; rear first, center second and front third to 66 ft. lbs. (90
Nm) for 1991-94 vehicles or to 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) for 1995-96 vehicles.
12. Tighten the clamp nuts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (23-30 Nm).
13. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle.
14. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment checked.

Stabilizer Link
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front lower control arms to hang free.
2. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Unfasten the nut attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft.
4. On vehicles equipped with the base suspension system, remove the bolt, insulators, spacer and
washers.
5. On vehicles equipped with the direct acting stabilizer system, remove the nut attaching the
stabilizer link to the strut bracket.
6. Remove the stabilizer link from the vehicle.

To install:

7. For vehicles equipped with the base suspension system, install the bolt, insulators, spacer and
washers.
8. Install the nut securing the stabilizer link to the shaft. Tighten the nut to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-30
Nm) for vehicles with the base suspension system. For vehicles with direct acting suspension,
tighten the nut to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
9. For vehicles with the direct acting stabilizer system, install the nuts attaching the stabilizer link to
the strut bracket and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
10. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle.

Wheel Alignment
 CASTER
 CAMBER
 TOE
Print
If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven
in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first
check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering
components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found,
they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive
equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a
trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop.

Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they
affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only
the front suspension is adjustable.

CASTER

See Figure 1

Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The
steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The
wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted
back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering,
increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven
caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as
will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more
positive.

Fig. Fig. 1: Caster affects straight-line stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example,
employ positive caster

CAMBER
See Figure 2

Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the
tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a
slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much
negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer.

Fig. Fig. 2: Camber influences tire contact with the road

TOE

See Figure 3

Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the
wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they
are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional
stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.
Fig. Fig. 3: With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear

 Rear Suspension

Coil Springs
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1

CAUTION

The coil springs are under a considerable amount of tension. Be very careful when removing or installing
them; they can exert enough force to cause very serious injuries.

1. Raise and support the car on a hoist. Do not use a twin-post hoist. The swing arc of the axle may
cause it to slip from the hoist when the bolts are removed. If a suitable hoist is not available, raise
and safely support the vehicle using jackstands, then position an adjustable jack under the rear
axle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the right and left brake hose attaching brackets, allowing the hoses to hang freely. Do
NOT disconnect the fluid lines.
4. Remove both shock absorber lower attaching bolts from the axle.
WARNING

Do NOT have the rear axle by the brake hose, as this will stretch and/or damage the brake lines.

5. Carefully lower the rear axle, then remove the coil spring and/or insulator from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 1: Typical rear coil spring removal and installation


To install:

Install the upper insulators to the body with adhesive prior installing the spring.
6. Position the spring and insulator in the seats and raise the axle. The ends of the upper coil of the
spring must be must be positioned in the seat of the body and within 9 / 16 in. (15mm) of the
spring stop.

It will be necessary to bring the axle assembly to curb height prior to tightening the bolts on the shocks.
7. Attach the lower shock absorbers to the rear axle, then tighten the mounting nut and/or bolt, as
follows:
A. For 1988 models, tighten the lower mount nut and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for Corsica and to
43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for Beretta.
B. For 1989-90 models, tighten the lower mount nut and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for Corsica and
21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) for Beretta.
C. For 1991-96 models, tighten the lower mount nut for Beretta to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) and the lower
mount bolt for Corsica to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).

8. Attach the brake line brackets to the body.


9. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
10. Remove the jackstands, then carefully lower the vehicle.
REAR SUSPENSION
Print

The Corsica and Beretta have a semi-independent rear suspension system which consists of an axle with
trailing arms and a twisting cross beam, for the Corsica and a tubular trailing arm for the Beretta, 2 coil
springs and 2 shock absorbers, 2 upper spring insulators and 2 spring compression bumpers. The axle
assembly attaches to the body through a rubber bushing located at the front of each control arm. The
brackets are integral with the underbody side rails. A stabilizer bar is available as an option.

Two coil springs are used, each being retained between a seat in the underbody and one on the control
arm. A rubber cushion is used to isolate the coil spring upper end from the underbody seat, while the
lower end sits on a combination bumper and spring insulator.

Fig. Fig. 1: Rear Suspension Component Location


The double acting shock absorbers are filled with a calibrated amount of fluid and sealed during
production. They are non-adjustable, non-refillable and cannot be disassembled.

A single unit hub and bearing assembly is bolted to both ends of the rear axle assembly; it is a sealed unit
and must be replaced if found to be defective.

Rear Axle/Lower Control Arm Assembly


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

The control arms and axle are one unit. The axle structure itself maintains the geometrical relationship of
the wheels relative to the body. The axle assembly attaches to the underbody through a rubber bushing
located at the front of each control arm. Each control arm bolts to underbody brackets.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then place jackstands under the control arms.
2. Remove the stabilizer bar from the axle assembly.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly and brake drum.

WARNING

Do not hammer on the brake drum as damage to the bearing could result.

4. Remove the shock absorber lower attaching bolts and paddle nuts at the axle and disconnect the
shocks from the control arm.
5. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the axle assembly.
6. Disconnect the brake line at the brackets from the axle assembly.
7. Lower the rear axle and remove the coil springs and insulators.
8. Remove the control arm bolts from the underbody bracket, then lower the axle.
9. Remove the hub attaching bolts and remove the hub, bearing and backing plate assembly.
10. Install the hub, bearing and backing plate assembly. Hold the nuts and tighten the attaching bolts
to 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm).

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear axle assembly - 1988-92 vehicles
To install:
11. Install the stabilizer bar to the axle assembly.
12. Place the axle assembly on a transmission jack and raise into position. Attach the control arms to
the underbody bracket with bolts and nuts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time. It will be
necessary to tighten the bolt the bolt of the control arm at standing height.
13. Install the brake line connections to the axle assembly.
14. Attach the brake cable to the rear axle assembly.
15. Position the coil springs and insulators in seats and raise the rear axle.
16. The end of the upper coil on the springs must be parallel to the axle assembly and seated in the
pocket.
17. Install the shock absorber lower attachment bolts and paddle nuts to the rear axle and tighten the
bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for Corsica, and to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for Beretta.
18. Install the parking brake cable to the guide hook and adjust as necessary.
19. Install the brake drums and wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140
Nm).
20. Partially lower the vehicle, then bleed the brake system, as outlined inBrakes .
21. Carefully lower the car.
22. Tighten the lower control arm-to-body bracket attaching bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 2 and 3

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.


2. Support the rear axle assembly with a jackstand.
3. Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Disconnect the brake pipe from the brake pipe brackets on the axle assembly. This will ensure
that the axle is not suspended by the brake pipes and hoses.
5. Remove the shock absorber lower attaching bolts and nuts at the axle and disconnect the shocks
from the control arm.

Fig. Fig. 2: Unfasten the lower retainers, then detach the shock from the control arm
6. Lower the rear axle, then remove the springs and insulators.
7. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer unit and right wheel assembly.
8. Detach the ABS wiring connector and mount clip located near the fuel tank.
9. Disconnect the right and left brake lines.
10. Unfasten the control arm bolts from the underbody bracket, then carefully lower the axle from
the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 3: Rear axle removal and installation - 1996 vehicles


To install:
11. Place the axle assembly on a transmission jack and raise into position. Attach the control arms to
the underbody bracket with bolts and nuts hand-tight. Do not tighten the bolts at this time. It will
be necessary to tighten the bolts of the control arm at standing height.
12. Connect the right and left brake lines.
13. Attach the ABS electrical connectors.
14. Connect the parking brake cable at the equalizer unit and right wheel assembly.
15. Position the upper and lower insulators, using adhesive, and install the springs in the seats and
raise the rear axle.
16. The end of the upper coil on the springs must be parallel to the axle assembly and seated in the
pocket.
17. Install the shock absorber lower attachment bolts and nuts to the rear axle and tighten the bolt to
35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
18. Install the right and left side brake line bracket mount bolts to the body and tighten to 8 ft. lbs.
(11 Nm).
19. Install the wheel and tire assemblies. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
20. Bleed the brake system and lower the car.
21. Tighten the lower control arm-to-body bracket attaching bolts to 52-59 ft. lbs. (70-80 Nm) plus
an additional 120 degree rotation.

Rear Hub and Bearing


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.


2. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the wheel and tire assembly.

WARNING

Do not hammer on the brake drum to remove; damage to the bearing will result.

3. Remove the brake drum, as outlined in Brakes .


4. If equipped, detach the ABS wheel speed sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove the 4 hub and bearing retaining bolts or nuts, as applicable and remove the assembly
from the axle. The top rear attaching bolt will not clear the brake shoe when removing the hub
and bearing assembly. Partially remove the hub and bearing assembly prior to removing this bolt.

Fig. Fig. 1: Unfasten the hub and bearing retaining bolts ...
Fig. Fig. 2: ... then remove the hub and bearing from the vehicle

Fig. Fig. 3: Rear hub and bearing assemblies - 1991-96 vehicles


To install:

6. Attach the ABS wheel speed sensor electrical connector.


7. Position the top attaching bolt in the hub and bearing assembly prior to the installation in the
axle assembly.
8. Install the remaining hub and bearing bolts nuts and tighten them to 38-43 ft. lbs. (52-58 Nm).
9. Install the brake drum.
10. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
11. Carefully lower the vehicle.

Shock Absorbers
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 TESTING
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8

1. Open the trunk lid, remove any necessary trim panels or nut cover, and remove the upper shock
absorber nut.

Fig. Fig. 1: Open the trunk, remove the nut cover (A) to access the upper retaining nuts (B)

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the upper shock assembly retaining nuts


WARNING

When replacing both shock absorbers, remove one at a time. Do not remove both shock absorbers at
once, as suspending the rear axle at full length could result in damage to the brake lines and hoses.

2. Raise the and safely support the vehicle, the support the rear axle assembly with adjustable
jackstands to remove the weight from the shock absorbers.
3. Remove the lower attaching bolt or nut, then remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 3: Make sure to properly support the rear axle when removing the retaining bolt from the shock
absorber

Fig. Fig. 4: After removing the lower bolt, remove the shock absorber from the vehicle
Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the shock absorbers and related components - tubular type axle shown

Fig. Fig. 6: Shock absorber upper and lower attachment - stamped axle shown
Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the shock absorber and other rear suspension component - spring on-center
axle shown
To install:

4. Position the shock and install the lower attaching retainer hand-tight.
5. Carefully lower the vehicle enough to guide the upper stud through the body opening and install
the upper shock mounting nut loosely.
6. Tighten the lower mounting retainer as follows:
A. For 1988 models, tighten the lower mount nut and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for Corsica and 43
ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for Beretta.
B. For 1989-90 models, tighten the lower mount nut and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for Corsica and
21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) for Beretta.
C. For 1991-96 models, tighten the lower mount nut for Beretta to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) and the lower
mount bolt for Corsica to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).

7. Remove the axle support, then carefully lower the vehicle the rest of the way.
8. Tighten the upper shock absorber mounting nut, as follows:
A. For 1988-92 vehicles, tighten the 2 upper outer nuts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) and the center upper
nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
B. For 1993-96 vehicles, tighten the upper mounting nut to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

9. Install the upper shock absorber mounting nut cover.


TESTING

The purpose of the shock absorber is simply to limit the motion of the spring during compression and
rebound cycles. If the vehicle is not equipped with these motion dampers, the up and down motion would
multiply until the vehicle was alternately trying to leap off the ground and to pound itself into the
pavement.

Countrary to popular rumor, the shocks do not affect the ride height of the vehicle. This is controlled by
other suspension components such as springs and tires. Worn shock absorbers can affect handling; if the
front of the vehicle is rising or falling excessively, the "footprint" of the tires changes on the pavement and
steering is affected.

The simplest test of the shock absorber is simply push down on one corner of the unladen vehicle and
release it. Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most cases, it will come up beyond it
original rest position, dip back below it and settle quickly to rest. This shows that the damper is
controlling the spring action. Any tendency to excessive pitch (up-and-down) motion or failure to return
to rest within 2-3 cycles is a sign of poor function within the shock absorber. Oil-filled shocks may have a
light film of oil around the seal, resulting from normal breathing and air exchange. This should NOT be
taken as a sign of failure, but any sign of thick or running oil definitely indicates failure. Gas filled shocks
may also show some film at the shaft; if the gas has leaked out, the shock will have almost no resistance
to motion.

Fig. Fig. 8: When fluid is seeping out of the shock absorber, it's time to replace it
While each shock absorber can be replaced individually, it is recommended that they be changed as a pair
(both front or both rear) to maintain equal response on both sides of the vehicle. Chances are quite good
that if one has failed, its mate is weak also.
Stabilizer Bar
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.


2. Remove the nuts and bolts at both the axle and control arm attachments, then remove the control
arm.
3. Remove the bracket, insulator and stabilizer bar.

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the stabilizer bar and related components - 1988-92 Beretta
Fig. Fig. 2: Stabilizer bar mounting - 1988-92 Corsica
To install:
4. Install the U-bolts, upper clamp, spacer and insulators in the trailing axle. Position the stabilizer
bar in the insulators and loosely install the lower clamp and nuts.
5. Attach the end of the stabilizer bar to the control arms and tighten all nuts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Tighten the axle attaching nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
7. Remove the jackstands, then carefully lower the vehicle.

1991-96 Vehicles
CORSICA

See Figure 2

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.


2. Remove the nuts and bolts at both the axle and control arm attachments and remove the control
arm and remove the bracket, insulator and stabilizer bar.

To install:
3. Install the U-bolts, upper clamp, spacer and insulators in the trailing axle. Position the stabilizer
bar in the insulators and loosely install the lower clamp and nuts.
4. Attach the end of the stabilizer bar to the control arms and tighten all nuts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
5. Tighten the axle attaching nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
6. Lower the vehicle.

BERETTA

See Figure 3
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts from both ends of the stabilizer shaft.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the stabilizer bar - Beretta


To install:
4. Position the stabilizer shaft and install retaining the nuts and bolts.
5. Tighten the nuts to 103 ft. lbs. (139 Nm) for 1991-92 vehicles and to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Carefully lower the vehicle.

 Steering

Ignition Lock Cylinder


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The manufacturer recommends that the steering column be removed from the vehicle prior to ignition
lock removal and installation.

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

STANDARD STEERING COLUMN

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Remove the left-side lower trim panel.
3. Remove the steering column-to-support screws and lower the steering column.

Vehicles equipped with floor shift and automatic transaxles use an ignition switch inhibitor and park lock
cable. On these models the park lock cable must be disconnected from the ignition switch inhibitor, by
releasing the locking tab, before removing the column.
4. Detach the dimmer switch and turn signal switch connectors.
5. Remove the wiring harness-to-firewall nuts and steering column.
6. Remove the steering column-to-steering gear bolt and the steering column from the vehicle.
7. Remove the combination switch, as outlined in this section.
8. Place the lock cylinder in the RUN position.
9. Remove the steering shaft assembly and turn signal switch housing as an assembly.
10. Using the Terminal Remover tool No. J-35689-A or equivalent, disconnect and label the wires "F"
and "G" on the connector at the buzzer switch assembly from the turn signal switch electrical
harness connector.
11. Place the lock cylinder in the RUN position and remove the buzzer switch.
12. Place the lock cylinder in the ACCESSORY position. Remove the lock cylinder retaining screw and
the lock cylinder.
13. Remove the dimmer switch nut/bolt, the dimmer switch and actuator rod.
14. Remove the dimmer switch mounting stud (the mounting nut was mounted to it).
15. Remove the ignition switch-to-steering column screws and the ignition switch.
16. Remove the lock bolt screws and the lock bolt.
17. Remove the switch actuator rack and ignition switch.
18. Remove the steering shaft lock and spring.

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the ignition lock cylinder - 1988-90 vehicles
To install:

19. Observe the following tightening specifications when installing. Tighten the steering lock screw to
27 inch lbs. (3 Nm), the dimmer switch stud to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm), the turn signal switch housing
screws to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm), the turn signal switch screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm) and the
steering wheel lock nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
20. To install the lock bolt, lubricate it with lithium grease and install the lock bolt, spring and
retaining plate.
21. Lubricate the teeth on the switch actuator rack. Install the rack and the ignition switch through
the opening in the steering bolt until it rests on the retaining plate.
22. Install the steering column lock cylinder set by holding the barrel of the lock cylinder, insert the
key and turn it to the ACCESSORY position.
23. Install the lock set in the steering column while holding the rack against the lock plate.
24. Install the lock retaining screw. Insert the key in the lock cylinder and turn the lock cylinder to the
START position and the rack will extend.
25. Center the slotted holes on the ignition switch mounting plate and install the ignition switch
mounting screw and nut.
26. Install the dimmer switch and actuator rod into the center slot on the switch mounting plate.
27. Install the buzzer switch and turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position. Push the switch in until it
is bottomed out with the plastic tab that covers the lock retaining screw.
28. Install the steering shaft and turn signal housing as an assembly.
29. Install the turn signal switch.
30. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedures.

TILT STEERING COLUMN

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Tilt the column up as far as it will go and remove the left-side lower trim panel.
3. Remove the steering column-to-support screws and lower the steering column.

Vehicles equipped with floor shift and automatic transaxles use an ignition switch inhibitor and park lock
cable. On these models the park lock cable must be disconnected from the ignition switch inhibitor, by
releasing the locking tab, before removing the column.
4. Disconnect the dimmer switch and turn signal switch connectors.
5. Remove the wiring harness-to-firewall nuts and steering column.
6. Remove the steering column-to-steering gear bolt and the steering column from the vehicle.
7. Remove the combination switch.
8. Using a flat-type pry blade, position it in the square opening of the spring retainer, push
downward (to the left) to release the spring retainer. Remove the wheel tilt spring.
9. Remove the spring retainer, the tilt spring and the tilt spring guide.
10. Remove the shoe pin retaining cap. Using the Pivot Pin Removal tool No. J-21854-01 or
equivalent, remove the 2 pivot pins.
11. Place the lock cylinder in the RUN position.
12. Pull the shoe release lever and release the steering column housing.
13. Remove the column housing, the steering shaft assembly and turn signal switch housing as an
assembly.
14. Using the Terminal Remover tool No. J-35689-A or equivalent, tag and detach the wires "F" and
"G" on the connector at the buzzer switch assembly from the turn signal switch electrical harness
connector.
15. Place the lock cylinder in the RUN position and remove the buzzer switch.
16. Place the lock cylinder in the ACCESSORY position. Remove the lock cylinder retaining screw and
the lock cylinder.
17. Remove the dimmer switch nut/bolt, the dimmer switch and actuator rod.
18. Remove the dimmer switch mounting stud (the mounting nut was attached to it).
19. Remove the ignition switch-to-steering column screws and the ignition switch.
20. Remove the lock bolt screws and the lock bolt.
21. Remove the switch actuator rack and ignition switch.
22. Remove the steering shaft lock and spring.

To install:

23. Observe the following tightening specifications when installing. Tighten the steering lock screw to
27 inch lbs., the dimmer switch stud to 35 inch lbs., the turn signal switch housing screws to 88
inch lbs., the turn signal switch screws to 35 inch lbs. and the steering wheel lock nut to 30 ft.
lbs.
24. To install the lock bolt, lubricate it with lithium grease and install the lock bolt, spring and
retaining plate.
25. Lubricate the teeth on the switch actuator rack. Install the rack and the ignition switch through
the opening in the steering bolt until it rests on the retaining plate.
26. Install the steering column lock cylinder set by holding the barrel of the lock cylinder, insert the
key and turn the key to the ACCESSORY position.
27. Install the lock set in the steering column while holding the rack against the lock plate.
28. Install the lock retaining screw. Insert the key in the lock cylinder. Turn the lock cylinder to
the START position and the rack will extend.
29. Center the slotted holes on the ignition switch mounting plate. Install the ignition switch
mounting screw and nut.
30. Install the dimmer switch and actuator rod into the center slot on the switch mounting plate.
31. Install the buzzer switch and turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position. Push the switch in until it
is bottomed out with the plastic tab that covers the lock retaining screw.
32. Install the steering shaft and turn signal housing as an assembly.
33. Install the turn signal switch. To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures.

1991-92 Vehicles

See Figure 2

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Disable the SIR system as outlined in Chassis Electrical .
3. Remove the steering wheel.
4. Remove the coil assembly retaining ring.
5. Lift the coil assembly from the end of the steering shaft and allow coil to hang freely.
6. Remove the wave washer.
7. If equipped with a standard column, remove the spacer shaft lock.
8. Remove the shaft lock retaining ring using tool J-23653-C or equivalent, to compress the shaft
lock.
9. Pry off the retaining ring.
10. Remove the shaft lock.
11. Remove the turn signal cancelling cam assembly.
12. Remove the upper bearing spring.
13. Position the turn signal lever to the right turn position.
14. Remove the multi-function lever by performing the following:
A. Ensure the lever is in the center or OFF position.
B. If equipped with cruise control, disconnect the cruise control connector from the steering column
assembly.
C. Pull the lever straight out of the turn signal switch.

15. Remove the hazard knob assembly.


16. Remove the screw and signal switch arm. If equipped with tilt column and cruise control, allow
the switch arm to hang freely.
17. Remove the turn signal switch screws. Allow the switch to hang freely.
18. Disconnect the turn signal/hazard switch assembly terminal from the instrument panel harness.
19. If equipped with tilt column, disconnect the buzzer switch assembly terminals from the turn
signal/hazard assembly connector. Remove the tan/black wire lead from cavity E and the light
green wire from the cavity F.
20. Remove the upper steering column bolts.
21. Remove the wiring protector.
22. Connect a length of wire to the turn signal/hazard assembly terminal connector to aid in
reassembly.
23. Gently pull the wire harness through the steering column housing shroud, steering column
housing and lock assembly cover.
24. Detach the wire from the connector.
25. Ensure the lock cylinder is in the LOCK position. Remove the lock cylinder attaching screw.
26. Remove the lock cylinder from the column.

Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the ignition lock cylinder mounting - 1991-96 vehicles
To install:

27. Install the lock cylinder and attaching screw. Tighten to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm).
28. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
29. Install the buzzer switch.
30. Connect the wire to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly connector.
31. Gently pull the connector through the steering column housing shroud, steering column housing
and lock assembly cover.
32. Remove the wire.
33. Install the wiring protector.
34. If disconnected, connect the buzzer switch terminals to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly
connector. Insert the tan/black wire lead into cavity E and the light green wire into cavity F.
35. Connect the turn signal/hazard switch assembly connector to the instrument panel harness.
36. Install the steering column support bracket bolts to the steering column. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30
Nm).
37. Install the steering column upper support bolts. Tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
38. Install the turn signal switch assembly and attaching screws. Tighten to 20 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
39. Install the hazard knob assembly.
40. Install the multi-function lever by performing the following:
A. Align the tab on the turn signal switch with the notch in the pivot of the turn signal switch.
B. Push the lever into the turn signal switch.
C. If equipped with cruise control, connect the connector to the steering column assembly.

41. Install the turn signal cancelling cam assembly. Lubricate with a synthetic grease.
42. Install the shaft lock.
43. Install the shaft lock retaining ring, lining up to block tooth on the shaft. Use tool J-23653-C to
compress the shaft lock.
44. If equipped with a standard column, install the spacer shaft lock.
45. Install the wave washer.
46. Ensure the coil assembly is centered.

The coil assembly will become uncentered if the steering column is separated from the steering gear and
is allowed to rotate or the centering spring is pushed down, letting the hub rotate while the coil is
removed from the steering column.
47. Install the coil assembly using the horn tower on the cancelling cam assembly inner ring and
projections on the outer ring for alignment.
48. Install the coil assembly retaining ring. The ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft.
Gently pull the lower coil assembly wire to remove any wire kinks that may be inside the column.
49. Install the steering wheel.
50. Enable the SIR system as outlined earlier in this section.
51. Connect the negative battery cable.

Ignition Switch and Dimmer Switch


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988 Vehicles
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped with a column shift, place the transaxle selector in P .
3. Place the lock cylinder in the ACC position.
4. Remove the left side sound insulator panel.
5. Remove the steering column-to-support bolts. Gently lower the steering column onto the driver's
seat.
6. Disconnect the dimmer and ignition switch connectors.
7. Remove the dimmer switch nut, bolt and disconnect the dimmer switch from the actuator rod.
8. Remove the switch.

To install:

9. Make sure the ignition lock cylinder is in the ACC position.


10. Insert the dimmer switch actuator rod into the hole in the dimmer switch.
11. Position the dimmer switch in place on the stud and install the retainer nut and screw. Do not
tighten.
12. Position the dimmer switch so a click is heard when the turn signal lever is pulled. Tighten the nut
and screw to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
13. Raise the steering column into place and connect the dimmer switch and turn signal switch
connectors.
14. Install the steering column-to-support screws and secure the steering column in place.
15. Install the left side lower trim panel.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.

1989-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

The manufacturer recommends that the steering column be removed from vehicle before performing this
procedure.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place the ignition switch in the OFF-LOCK position.
3. Remove the steering column and place in a suitable holding fixture.
4. Remove the dimmer switch nut, bolt and disconnect the dimmer switch from the actuator rod.
5. Remove the switch.

To install:

6. Make sure the ignition lock cylinder is in the OFF-LOCK position.


7. Insert the dimmer switch actuator rod into the hole in the dimmer switch.

Should the actuator rod become disengaged from the rod cap, upon installation the tab on the rod must
engage the wide slot in the rod cap and snap into place.
8. Position the dimmer switch in place on the stud and install the retainer nut and screw. Do not
tighten at this time.
9. Adjust the dimmer switch by inserting a 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) drill bit or a 2.34mm diameter gauge pin into the adjustment hole in the dimmer

switch. Push the switch against the actuator rod to remove all the lash.

10. Tighten the nut and screw to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).


11. Remove the adjustment tool from the dimmer switch.
12. Install the steering column in the vehicle.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.

1991-96 Vehicles

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Disable the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
3. Place the ignition switch in the OFF-LOCK position.
4. Remove the left side sound insulator panel.
5. Remove the bolts from the lower steering column support.
6. Remove the flange and coupling pinch bolt.
7. Remove the upper and lower bolts from the upper steering column support.
8. Detach the dimmer and ignition switch electrical connectors.
9. Carefully lower the steering column.
10. Remove the hexagonal nut and bolt/screw attaching the dimmer switch.
11. Disengage the dimmer switch actuator from the switch and remove the switch.

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the ignition switch and dimmer switch mounting
To install:

12. Ensure the ignition switch is in the OFF-LOCK position.


13. Engage the dimmer switch actuator rod in the dimmer switch and position the dimmer switch on
the mounting stud.
14. Install the nut and bolt/screw. Do not tighten.
15. Adjust the dimmer switch by inserting a 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) drill bit or a 2.34mm diameter gauge
pin into the adjustment hole in the dimmer switch. Push the switch against the actuator rod to
remove all the lash.
16. Tighten the nut and screw to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
17. Remove the adjustment tool from the dimmer switch.
18. Support the steering column and install the column into the flange and coupling assembly.
19. Attach the dimmer and ignition switch electrical connectors.
20. Raise the column into position and loosely install the lower bolts to the upper steering column
support bracket.
21. Install the lower steering column support bracket bolts. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
22. Install the upper bolts to the upper steering column support bracket. Tighten the upper and lower
bolts to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
23. Install the flange and coupling assembly pinch bolt. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
24. Install the right side sound insulator panel.
25. Enable the SIR system.
26. Connect the negative battery cable.

Power Steering Pump


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 BLEEDING
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except 2.3L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Remove the pressure and return hoses from the pump and drain the system into a suitable
container.
3. Cap or plug the fittings at the pump.
4. Using a 12 in. (305mm) adjustable wrench, on the tensioner casting, loosen the belt tensioner.
Lift the belt off the pulley.
5. Locate the 3 pump attaching bolts through the access hole in the pulley and remove the bolts.
6. On the 2.0L and 2.2L engine, remove the bolt from the rear of the pump.
7. Remove the pump assembly.
Fig. Fig. 2: Power steering pump mounting - 2.8L and 3.1L engines
8. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the power steering pump bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
(30 Nm) for the 2.8L and 3.1L engines and to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) for the 2.0L and 2.2L cylinder
engines.
9. Refill power steering pump reservoir and bleed the system as outlined later in this section.

BLEEDING

See Figure 5

Automatic transmission fluid is NOT compatible with the seals and hoses of the power steering system.
Under no circumstances should automatic transmission be used in place of power steering fluid in this
system.
1. With the engine turned OFF, turn the wheels all the way to the left.
2. Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid until the level is at the COLD mark on the reservoir.
3. Start and operate the engine at fast idle for 15 seconds. Turn the engine OFF.
4. Recheck the fluid level and fill it to the COLD mark.
Fig. Fig. 5: Power steering system bleeding procedure
5. Start the engine and bleed the system by turning the wheels in both directions slowly to the
stops.
6. Stop the engine and check the fluid. Fluid that still has air in it will be a light tan color.
7. Repeat this procedure until all air is removed from the system.
Rack And Pinion Steering Gear
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1

WARNING

On 1991-96 models, the wheels of the vehicle must be in the straight ahead position and the ignition
switch in the LOCK position before disconnecting the flange and coupling assembly from the steering
column or the rack and pinion steering gear. Failure to do so may cause the Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the SIR coil assembly.

1. From inside the vehicle, remove the left-side lower sound insulator.
2. Remove the upper steering shaft-to-steering rack coupling pinch bolt.
3. Place a drain pan under the steering gear and disconnect the pressure lines from the steering
gear.
4. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
5. Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
6. Using the Ball Joint Remover tool No. J-24319-01 or equivalent, disconnect the tie rod ends from
the steering knuckles.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Remove both steering gear-to-chassis clamps.
9. Slide the steering gear forward and remove the lower steering shaft-to-steering rack coupling
pinch bolt.
10. From the firewall, disconnect the coupling and seal from the steering gear.
11. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
12. Through the left-wheel opening, remove the steering gear with the tie rods.

If the studs were removed with the mounting clamps, reinstall the studs into the cowl panel and tighten to
the studs are fully seated against the dash panel. The torque should not exceed 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). After a
second use of the stud a thread locking compound should be used.
Fig. Fig. 1: Typical rack and pinion steering gear mounting
To install:

13. Install the rack and pinion through the left wheel opening.
14. Install the dash seal on the rack and pinion assembly.
15. Move the rack and pinion assembly forward and install the coupling lower pinch bolt and tighten
to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
16. Install the gear inlet and outlet pipes to the steering gear and tighten to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
17. Hand tighten the camp nuts, then tighten the left side clamp nuts first to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), then
tighten the right side clamp nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
18. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
19. Install the tie rod ends to the struts and install the cotter pins after tightening the nuts to 34 ft.
lbs. (47 Nm).
20. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
21. Lower the vehicle and install the steering column upper pinch bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
22. Refill power steering pump reservoir and bleed the power steering system.

STEERING
Print

The power rack and pinion steering system has a rotary control valve which directs the hydraulic fluid to
either side of the rack piston. The integral rack piston is attached to the rack and converts the hydraulic
pressure into left or right linear motion. A vane-type constant displacement pump with integral reservoir
provides hydraulic pressure. No in-car adjustments are necessary or possible on the system.

Steering Column
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. Remove the left-side lower trim panel.
3. Remove the 4 upper steering column mounting bolts. Lower the steering column onto the seat.
4. Disconnect the dimmer switch and turn signal switch electrical connectors.
5. Remove the wiring harness-to-firewall/steering column nuts.

If the vehicle is equipped with a Park Lock, the Park Lock cable must be disconnected by pressing the
locking tab at the ignition switch inhibitor before removing the column from the vehicle.
6. Push the seal away from the rag joint and remove the 2 lower steering column-to-steering rack
bolts and the steering column from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 1: Steering column mounting - 1988-90 vehicles


Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the steering column components - 1988-90 vehicles with standard column
Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the steering column components - 1988-90 vehicles with tilt column
To install:
7. Insert the steering shaft into the rag coupling, raise the column into position and loose assemble
the 2 capsule bolts.
8. Install and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), the lower shackle bolt. this positions the column in the
fore-aft direction.
9. Tighten the 2 capsule bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
10. Install and tighten the coupling pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Pull the seal over the end of the column. The seal is retained by the lip of the bushing.

Make the electrical connections before the column is inserted into the rag coupling or after installation of
the 3 attaching bolts. In no case should the column be supported by only the rag joint. Torque values and
sequences are shown in the illustration.
1991 Vehicles

See Figures 4, 5 and 6

1. Disable the SIR system as outlined in Chassis Electrical .

WARNING
The wheels must be in the straight ahead position and the key must be in the LOCK position when
removing or installing steering column.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


3. Detach the hazard/turn signal switch electrical connection and the cruise control electrical
connection.
4. Remove the steering column support bracket bolts from the column.
5. Remove the flange and coupling pinch bolt.
6. Unfasten the upper steering column support bolts.
7. Remove the lower steering column support bolts.
8. Disconnect the ignition and dimmer switch terminal connections.
9. Detach the park lock cable from the ignition switch.
10. Remove the steering column assembly.
Fig. Fig. 4: Steering column mounting - 1991 vehicles
Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the steering column components - 1991 vehicles with standard column
Fig. Fig. 6: Exploded view of the steering column components - 1991 vehicles with tilt column
To install:
11. Position the steering column assembly in the vehicle.
12. Connect the park lock cable from the ignition switch.
13. Connect the ignition and dimmer switch terminal connections.
14. Position the steering column into the flange and coupling assembly.
15. Install the lower steering column support bolts and tighten to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
16. Install the steering column support bracket to the steering column and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30
Nm).
17. Install the upper steering column support bolts and tighten to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
18. Install the flange and coupling pinch bolt and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

1992-96 Vehicles

See Figure 7

1. Disable the SIR system as outlined in Chassis Electrical .

WARNING
The wheels must be in the straight ahead position and the key must be in the LOCK position when
removing or installing steering column.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


3. Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator.
4. Detach the multi-function switch electrical connection.
5. Remove the steering column support bracket bolts from the column.
6. Remove the flange and coupling pinch bolt.
7. Detach the ignition and dimmer switch terminal connections.
8. Disconnect the park lock cable from the ignition switch.
9. Unfasten the upper and lower steering column support bolts.
10. Carefully remove the steering column assembly from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 7: Steering column mounting - 1992-96 vehicles


To install:
11. Position the steering column assembly in the vehicle.
12. Install the upper and lower steering column support bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm)
13. Install the flange and coupling pinch bolt and tighten to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
14. Install the steering column support bracket to the steering column and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30
Nm).
15. Connect the park lock cable to the ignition switch.
16. Attach the ignition and dimmer switch terminal connections.
17. Connect the multi-function switch electrical connection.
18. Install the left instrument panel sound insulator.
19. Enable the SIR system as outlined earlier in this section.
20. Connect the negative battery cable.

Steering Wheel
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the steering wheel so the wheels are in the straight
ahead position.
2. From the rear of the steering wheel, remove the horn cover-to-steering wheel screws. Detach the
horn electrical connector from the steering wheel.
3. Remove the steering wheel-to-column retainer, nut, washer (if equipped) and damper assembly.
4. Using a marking tool, mark the steering wheel alignment with the steering shaft for realignment
purposes.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering wheel - 1988-90 vehicles
5. Using the Steering Wheel Puller tool No. J-1859-03 or equivalent, press the steering wheel from
the steering column.
6. To install, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the steering wheel nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

1991-96 Vehicles

See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


2. If equipped, disable the SIR system as outlined in Chassis Electrical , then remove the inflator
module as follows:

Rotate the steering wheel so the access holes on the back of the steering wheel are at the 12 and 6 o'clock
positions. This will allow tool access and reduce the possibility of marring the steering column cover.
1. Remove the 4 screws from the back of the inflator module.
2. Remove the inflator module from the steering wheel.
3. Remove the Connector Positive Assurance (CPA) from the inflator module electrical connector and
detach the connector.
Fig. Fig. 2: Unfasten the screws from the back of the SIR inflator module

Fig. Fig. 3: Pull the inflator module partially away from the steering wheel
Tie Rod Ends
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Outer Tie Rod End

See Figure 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut from the outer tie rod end.
Fig. Fig. 1: Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end nut. Discard the
cotter pin

Fig. Fig. 2: Use a wrench to loosen the tie rod end castellated nut ...
Fig. Fig. 3: ... then remove the nut from the tie rod end
3. Loosen the outer tie rod pinch bolts.
4. Using the Ball Joint Remover tool No. J-24319-01 or equivalent, separate the tie rod from the
steering knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 4: After loosening the pinch bolts, install a puller on the outer tie rod end ...
Fig. Fig. 5: ... then separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
5. Remove the outer tie rod from the adjuster by counting the exact number of turns required to
remove it. This will allow proper installation without having to reset the toe in.

Fig. Fig. 6: As you are unscrewing the outer tie rod end, count the number of rotations for proper
installation ...
Fig. Fig. 7: ... then remove the outer tie rod end from the vehicle
To install:

6. Install the new tie rod end by turning it in the same amount of turns as during the removal.
7. To complete the installation, connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and reverse the removal
procedures. Tighten the ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut to 35-50 ft. lbs. and the tie rod pinch
bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (46 Nm) for 1988-90 and to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) for 1991-92 vehicles.

Inner Tie Rod End

See Figures 9 and 10

1. Remove the inner tie rod end lock plate bolt. If both inner tie rods are being replaced, discard the
used lock plate.
2. Slide the inner tie rod out from between the plate and the steering rack.
3. Reinstall the lock plate bolt to insure proper tie rod-to-steering gear realignment.
4. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the outer tie rod end. Discard the cotter pin.
5. Using the Ball Joint Remover tool No. J-24319-01 or equivalent, separate the tie rod from the
steering knuckle.
6. Remove the inner and outer tie rod assembly from the vehicle.
7. Note the position of the inner and outer tie rods in relation to each other. Place the assembly in a
vise and loosen the adjuster pinch bolts.
8. Remove the outer tie rod from the adjuster by counting the exact number of turns required to
remove it. This will allow proper installation without having to reset the toe in.
Fig. Fig. 8: Inner tie rod end (A) and lock plate (B) mounting

Fig. Fig. 9: Inner tie rod end installation


To install:

9. Pplace the new inner tie rod in the vise and install the outer tie rod end and adjuster the same
amount of turns as when removing it.
10. Check the alignment between the inner and outer tie rods is the same as during removal.
11. To complete the installation, use a new lock plate and reverse the removal procedures. Tighten
the inner tie rod-to-lock plate bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

Turn Signal Switch


 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Print
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1988-90 Vehicles

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

Tool No. J-35689-A or equivalent, is required to remove the terminals from the connector on the turn
signal switch.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Pull the turn signal canceling cam assembly from the steering shaft.
4. Remove the hazard warning knob-to-steering column screw and the knob.

Before removing the turn signal assembly, position the turn signal lever so the turn signal assembly-to-
steering column screws can all be removed.
5. Remove the column housing cover-to-column housing bowl screw and the cover.

Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the turn signal switch housing - 1988-90 vehicles
If equipped with cruise control, detach the cruise control electrical connector.
6. Remove the turn signal lever-to-pivot assembly screw and the lever; one screw is in the front and
one is in the rear.
7. Using the Terminal Remover tool No. J-35689-A or equivalent, disconnect and label the wires "F"
and "G" on the connector at the buzzer switch assembly from the turn signal switch electrical
harness connector.
Fig. Fig. 2: Use the special tools to remove the terminals from the turn signal switch connector - 1988-90
vehicles
8. Remove the turn signal switch-to-steering column screws and the switch.

Fig. Fig. 3: Turn signal switch mounting - 1988-90 vehicles


9. To install, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the turn signal switch-to-steering column
screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm) and the steering wheel nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

1991-92 Vehicles

See Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

1. Disable the SIR system, as outlined in Chassis Electrical of this information.


2. If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Place the ignition to the LOCK position.
4. Remove the steering wheel.
5. Remove the coil assembly retaining ring.
6. Lift the coil assembly from the end of the steering shaft and allow coil to hang freely.

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the coil assembly from the shaft - 1991-96 vehicles
7. Remove the wave washer.
8. If equipped with a standard column, remove the spacer shaft lock.
9. Remove the shaft lock retaining ring using tool J-23653-C or equivalent, to compress the shaft
lock.

Fig. Fig. 5: Use the proper tools to remove the shaft lock retaining ring - 1991-96 vehicles
10. Pry off the retaining ring.
11. Remove the shaft lock.
12. Remove the turn signal cancelling cam assembly.
13. Remove the upper bearing spring.

Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the components from the upper steering shaft - 1991-96 vehicles with standard
column

Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the components from the upper steering shaft - 1991-96 vehicles with tilt column
14. Position the turn signal lever to the right turn position.
15. Remove the multi-function lever by performing the following:
A. Ensure the lever is in the center or OFF position.
B. If equipped with cruise control, detach the cruise control connector from the steering column
assembly.
C. Pull the lever straight out of the turn signal switch.

16. Remove the hazard knob assembly.


17. Remove the screw and signal switch arm. If equipped with tilt column and cruise control, allow
the switch arm to hang freely.
18. Remove the turn signal switch screws. Allow the switch to hang freely.
19. Disconnect the turn signal/hazard switch assembly terminal from the instrument panel harness.
20. If equipped with tilt column, disconnect the buzzer switch assembly terminals from the turn
signal/hazard assembly connector. Remove the tan/black wire lead from cavity E and the light
green wire from the cavity F.
21. Remove the upper steering column bolts.
22. Remove the wiring protector.
23. Connect a length of wire to the turn signal/hazard assembly terminal connector to aid in
reassembly.
24. Gently pull the wire harness through the steering column housing shroud, steering column
housing and lock assembly cover.
25. Detach the wire from the connector.

Fig. Fig. 8: Turn signal switch mounting - 1991-96 vehicles with standard column
Fig. Fig. 9: Turn signal switch mounting - 1991-96 vehicles with tilt column
To install:
26. Attach the wire to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly connector.
27. Gently pull the connector through the steering column housing shroud, steering column housing
and lock assembly cover.
28. Remove the wire.
29. Install the wiring protector.
30. If disconnected, connect the buzzer switch terminals to the turn signal/hazard switch assembly
connector. Insert the tan/black wire lead into cavity E and the light green wire into cavity F.
31. Attach the turn signal/hazard switch assembly connector to the instrument panel harness.
32. Install the steering column support bracket bolts to the steering column. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30
Nm).
33. Install the steering column upper support bolts. Tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
34. Install the turn signal switch assembly and attaching screws. Tighten to 20 inch lbs. (2.3 Nm).
35. Install the hazard knob assembly.
36. Install the multi-function lever by performing the following:
A. Align the tab on the turn signal switch with the notch in the pivot of the turn signal switch.
B. Push the lever into the turn signal switch.
C. If equipped with cruise control, connect the connector to the steering column assembly.

37. Install the turn signal cancelling cam assembly. Lubricate with a synthetic grease.
38. Install the shaft lock.
39. Install the shaft lock retaining ring, lining up to block tooth on the shaft. Use tool J-23653-C to
compress the shaft lock.
40. If equipped with a standard column, install the spacer shaft lock.
41. Install the wave washer.
42. Ensure the coil assembly is centered.

The coil assembly will become uncentered if the steering column is separated from the steering gear and
is allowed to rotate or the centering spring is pushed down, letting the hub rotate while the coil is
removed from the steering column.
43. Install the coil assembly using the horn tower on the cancelling cam assembly inner ring and
projections on the outer ring for alignment.
Fig. Fig. 10: Installation of the coil - 1991-96 vehicles
44. Install the coil assembly retaining ring. The ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft.
Gently pull the lower coil assembly wire to remove any wire kinks that may be inside the column.
45. Install the steering wheel.
46. If equipped, enable the SIR system.
47. Connect the negative battery cable.

 Wheels

Wheel Lug Studs


 REPLACEMENT
Print

REPLACEMENT

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

With Disc Brakes

1. Raise and support the appropriate end of the vehicle safely using jackstands, then remove the
wheel.
2. Remove the brake pads and caliper. Support the caliper aside using wire or a coat hanger. For
details, please refer to Brakes of this guide.
3. Remove the hub and bearing assembly, then lift off the rotor. For details on wheel bearing
removal, installation and adjustment, please refer to the procedure located in this section.
4. Properly support the rotor using press bars, then drive the stud out using an C-clamp tool J
6627-A, or equivalent, and remove the stud from the hub and bearing assembly.
Fig. Fig. 1: Use a large C-clamp or equivalent tool to drive the stud from the hub and bearing assembly
If the tool is not available, CAREFULLY drive the old stud out using a blunt drift. MAKE SURE the rotor is
properly and evenly supported or it may be damaged.

Fig. Fig. 2: View of the rotor and stud assembly


To install:

5. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and start the new stud with a hammer and drift pin. Do not
use any lubricant or thread sealer.

Start the lug stud through the bore in the hub, then position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread
the lug nut. Hold the hub/rotor while tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position.
MAKE SURE THE STUD IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.
Fig. Fig. 3: Install 4 washers over the lug stud, then tighten the lug nut. The stud should now be drawn
into position
6. Install the rotor and adjust the wheel bearings.
7. Install the brake caliper and pads.
8. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
9. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

With Drum Brakes

See Figures 4, 5 and 6

1. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands, then remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. If necessary to provide clearance, remove the brake shoes, as outlined inBrakes of this
information.
Fig. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the drum, axle flange and stud

Fig. Fig. 5: Use a C-clamp and socket to press out the stud

Fig. Fig. 6: Force the stud onto the axle flange using washers and a lug nut
4. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the stud from the axle flange.
5. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid soap and place it into the hole.

To install:

6. Position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the flange while
tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS
FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.
7. If applicable, install the brake shoes.
8. Install the brake drum.
9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

Wheels
 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
 INSPECTION
Print

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.


2. Remove the jack, tire iron and, if necessary, the spare tire from their storage compartments.
3. Check the owner's manual or refer to Routine Maintenance of this guide for the jacking points on
your vehicle. Then, place the jack in the proper position.
4. If equipped with lug nut trim caps, remove them by either unscrewing or pulling them off the lug
nuts, as appropriate. Consult the owner's manual, if necessary.
5. If equipped with a wheel cover or hub cap, insert the tapered end of the tire iron in the groove
and pry off the cover.
6. Apply the parking brake and block the diagonally opposite wheel with a wheel chock or two.

Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into wedges may be
used. If possible, keep one or two of the chocks in your tire storage compartment, in case any of the tires
has to be removed on the side of the road.
6. If equipped with an automatic transmission/transaxle, place the selector lever in P or Park; with a
manual transmission/transaxle, place the shifter in Reverse.
7. With the tires still on the ground, use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug nuts loose.
8. Using the jack, raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground. Support the vehicle safely
using jackstands.
9. Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Fig. Fig. 1: Place the jack at the proper lifting point on your vehicle

Fig. Fig. 2: Before jacking the vehicle, block the diagonally opposite wheel with one or, preferably, two
chocks
Fig. Fig. 3: With the vehicle still on the ground, break the lug nuts loose using the wrench end of the tire
iron
If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may occur. If the nuts
are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the bolt usually loosens the rust. Be
careful, as continued pounding will likely damage the brake drum or rotor.

Fig. Fig. 4: After the lug nuts have been loosened, raise the vehicle using the jack until the tire is clear of
the ground
Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the lug nuts from the studs

Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle
Fig. Fig. 7: Typical wheel lug tightening sequence
To install:

10. Make sure the wheel and hub mating surfaces, as well as the wheel lug studs, are clean and free
of all foreign material. Always remove rust from the wheel mounting surface and the brake rotor
or drum. Failure to do so may cause the lug nuts to loosen in service.
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
12. Using the tire wrench, tighten all the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, until they are snug.
13. Raise the vehicle and withdraw the jackstand, then lower the vehicle.
14. Using a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 100 ft. lbs. ( 140 Nm).
Check your owner's manual or refer to Routine Maintenance of this guide for the proper
tightening sequence.

WARNING

Do not overtighten the lug nuts, as this may cause the wheel studs to stretch or the brake disc (rotor) to
warp.

15. If so equipped, install the wheel cover or hub cap. Make sure the valve stem protrudes through
the proper opening before tapping the wheel cover into position.
16. If equipped, install the lug nut trim caps by pushing them or screwing them on, as applicable.
17. Remove the jack from under the vehicle, and place the jack and tire iron/wrench in their storage
compartments. Remove the wheel chock(s).
18. If you have removed a flat or damaged tire, place it in the storage compartment of the vehicle and
take it to your local repair station to have it fixed or replaced as soon as possible.

INSPECTION

Inspect the tires for lacerations, puncture marks, nails and other sharp objects. Repair or replace as
necessary. Also check the tires for treadwear and air pressure as outlined in Routine Maintenance of this
guide.

Check the wheel assemblies for dents, cracks, rust and metal fatigue. Repair or replace as necessary.

You might also like