Cosmetics Course

Cosmetics
Course outline
▶ Skin definition and layers
▶ Skin care daily routine
▶ Skin types
▶ How to choose the appropriate products for each skin type?
Course Outcomes
At the end of the course you will be able to:
• Define the skin and skin layers
• Set the perfect order for the daily skin care routine
• Build a good knowledge in proper active ingredients for every skin type.
• know the most popular product for each skin type that is available in the
pharmacies
• Increase you cosmetic knowledge as a pharmacist
The Skin
The skin is the largest organ of the body
It constitutes about 15 - 20% of the body's total mass.
Skin layers:
▶ Epidermis
▶ Dermis
▶ hypodermis
Epidermis: “barrier” part through a complex structure whose external part

is made up by the stratum corneum—a horny layer covered with a
hydrolipidic protective film.
Dermis: it is a dense conjunctive tissue, which is much thicker than the
epidermis to which it is connected by the dermo epidermal junction
Hypodermis, which consists of loose conjunctive tissue, is linked to the
lower part of the dermis by expansions of collagen fibers and elastic fibers
of different thickness according to the anatomical areas. This tissue mainly
contains adipocytes full of triglycerides, histiocytes, and mast cells.
Suncreams
There are two types of sun creams:
▶ Chemical suncreams which absorbs into the skin and then absorbs UV rays,
converts the rays into heat, and releases them from the body. The active
ingredients in chemical sunscreens include avobenzone, octinoxate and
oxybenzone.
▶ Physical suncreams which sits on top of the skin and reflects the sun’s rays.
The minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the main active ingredients
in physical blocks
Dry skin care daily routine

Cleanser : creamy cleansing are preferred for this type of skin and that because it
gentle, more hydrating than other cleansers and keep the skin natural oils.
Toner: in dry skin it preferred to use gentle toner such as: rose water
Moisturizer: dry skin often lack natural oils that give an itchy or tight feeling. So
the best moisturizer for dry skin is oil based cream.
Sunscreen: creamy sunscreen is the best choice for dry skin to keep it hydrated
Basic ingredient for dry skin

Gluco-glycerol: stimulates the formation of new Aquaporin's (tiny water channels)
in order to improve skin moisturisation, it is particularly suited for the care of dry
skin and very dry skin.
Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), is the most abundant in human skin which conducts water
and Glycerol across skin cells. Glycerol is a building block for skin’s own molecules.
Optimal water and Glycerol supply is essential to maintain skin’s natural moisture
balance.
Urea is used in a variety of skin care products to target general skin dryness or
medical conditions associated with dry or itchy skin.
Urea is a humectant, in percent less than 10, this means it keeps your skin moist
by drawing water from the deeper layers of your skin and the air.
Also urea is known as a keratolytic agent. This means it breaks down the protein
keratin in the outer layer of your skin. This action can help reduce dead skin
buildup and get rid of flaking or scaling skin.
The exfoliating actions are strongest in creams containing more than 10 percent
Ceramides are made up of long-chain fatty acids that link with other important
molecules to promote cellular function.
Ceramides help create a barrier to prevent permeability. This locks moisture into
your skin, which helps prevent dryness and irritation. It may also help protect
Trusted Source your epidermis from environmental damage.
These benefits may have anti-aging effects. Fine lines and wrinkles are often more
noticeable when skin is dry. Locking in moisture may minimize their appearance.
Anti-aging products
Hyaluronic acid
Is a clear substance that is naturally produced by your body.
The largest amounts of it are found in your skin, connective tissue and eyes.
Hyaluronic acid main function is to hold water to keep your tissues well hydrated.
Hyaluronic acid in serums and creams can improving dry skin, reducing the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and speeding up wound healing.
CoQ10
Is a coenzyme found naturally in all body cells. It's vital for energy production to
fulfil the skin's basic functions such as regeneration and repair.
With age, the levels of natural Coenzyme Q10 in our skin decrease. Due to the fact
that it is a vital antioxidant and essential for the energy production process, a
reduction in Q10 makes the skin more susceptible to increased stress and
damage. This makes it more susceptible to fine lines and wrinkles.
Oily skin care daily routine

Cleanser: gel cleansing are preferred for this type of skin and that because it
designed for deep cleansing and decongesting clogged pores. Also it remove
excess oil and kill acne causing bacteria.
Toner: alcohol free toner that have gently exfoliating action to rid dead skin
Moisturizer: even if your skin is oily you have to moisturize it to protect it from
harsh chemical in the cleanser and to coat it from infections. But you have to
choose a light cream for oily skin that is water base to prevent pores blogged.
Sunscreen: oily free sunblock is the best choose for oily skin (suspension, gel)
Basic ingredient for oily skin
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which is a great ingredient for oily skin,
especially if you’re experiencing breakouts as a result of excess oil. Often found in
cleansers, creams and toners, Salicylic Acid is an anti-inflammatory ingredient that
works through excess oil, breaks down dead skin cells, and attacks troublesome
breakouts the source—deep inside your pores.
Salicylic acid is also used in higher concentrations as a peeling agent for the
treatment of:
Acne (blackheads and whiteheads), acne scars, age spots. It can also help prevent
future breakouts.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a multi-use skincare ingredient that
hydrates, increases the elasticity of your skin, minimizes pore size, and regulates
excess oil production.
Niacinimide can be paired with Hyaluronic Acid to keep your skin moisturized,
soft, and shine-free.
Glycolic acid
Type of alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) which works to break the bonds between the
outer layer of skin cells, including dead skin cells, and the next skin cell layer. This
creates a peeling effect that can make the skin appear smoother and more even.
For people with acne, the benefit of glycolic acid is that the peeling effects results
in reduce block of the pores. This includes dead skin cells and oil. This make the
skin clear and you usually have fewer breakouts.
Also, glycolic acid can affect the outer skin barrier, helping it retain moisture
instead of drying your skin out. This is an advantage for acne-prone people
because many other topical anti-acne agents, like salicylic acid and benzoyl
peroxide, are drying
LACTIC ACID
Is an a-hydroxy acid (AHA) lactic acid has been suggested to be effective for
adjuvant therapy of mild acne.
Lactic acid increases cell turnover and helps eliminate accumulated dead skin cells
on the epidermis — the top layer of the skin.
Also, lactic acid make the skin firmer and thicker. As a result, there is an overall
smoother appearance and fewer fine lines and deep wrinkles.
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is a condition of subjective cutaneous hyperactivity to
environmental factors or topically applied products.
The skin of subjects experiencing this condition reacts more easily
to cosmetics, soaps, and sunscreens and often enhance worsening after exposure
to dry and cold climate
Causes of sensitive skin

1. Dry skin
2. Skin disorders or allergic skin reactions such as eczema, rosacea, or allergic
contact dermatitis
Skin becomes dry when it loses too much water and oil.
This can cause symptoms like:
Itch, peel, feel rough to the touch, crack and bleed, appear red or ashy-looking
How to deal with dry sensitive skin:
Gentle cleanser:
Use a gentle, soap-free cleanser that won’t wash away healthy oilsMoisturizer: A
gentle, fragrance-free, cream-based moisturizer can help lock in moisture and
protect your skin all day long.
Antioxidants
Are reactive molecules that are produced both inside your body and from the
environment which can react with other cellular molecules in your body such as
protein, DNA and lipids.
There are two types of oxidants:
Endogenous oxidants: which arise as a consequence of normal metabolic
pathways. For example, mitochondrial respiration produces superoxide and
hydrogen peroxide, while enzymes such as lipoxygenase, xanthine oxidase, and
NADPH oxidase produce hydroperoxides and superoxide.
Exogenous oxidants: which arise from environmental pollutants such as smoke,
UV radiation, and diet.
In response to these oxidants, a number of systemic antioxidants are available
whose function is to scavenge reactive oxygen species, preventing damage to
macromolecules such as lipids, DNA, and proteins
Usually there is a tight balance between oxidants produced and antioxidant
scavenging; however, under certain conditions, the balance can be tipped in favor
of the oxidants, a condition called “oxidative stress.” Potentially oxidative stress
can be caused by an increase in the number of oxidants, for example, as a result of
cigarette smoking or UV irradiation, or by a deficiency of any one important
antioxidant. This is of major concern since oxidative stress has been implicated in
a number of conditions including, skin cancer, and photoaging.
VITAMIN E
Vitamin E is the major lipophilic antioxidant in skin, and it is the most commonly
used natural antioxidant in topical formulations. It is found in all parts of the skin,
the dermis and epidermis as well as in the stratum corneum (SC), and is believed
to play an essential role in the protection of biomolecules from oxidative stress.
Vitamin E benefits:
1-Hyperpigmentation
2-Preventing aging and wrinkles on your face
3-For smooth, soft lips
Vitamin C
Ascorbic acid or vitamin C is one of the most important water-soluble
antioxidants, which is present in high amounts in the skin.
In the skin, vitamin C is found in all layers. In SC, it forms a similar gradient as
vitamin E with decreasing concentrations toward the outside. Vitamin C is
depleted by O3, UV radiation, and BPO. One of the earliest discoveries of vitamin
C benefits in the skin was the observation that it stimulates collagen synthesis in
dermal fibroblasts
Vitamin C benefits:
1- Brightening
2-It helps reduce 3-It helps fade hyperpigmentation
3- Redness and even out your skin tone
4- Reduces the appearance of under-eye circles
5-It promotes collagen production
6-It protects against sun damage
7- It generally helps boost wound healing

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Cosmetics

▶ Skin definition and layers

▶ Skin care daily routine

▶ How to choose the appropriate products for each skin type?

Epidermis: “barrier” part through a complex structure whose external part

Dry skin care daily routine

Basic ingredient for dry skin

Oily skin care daily routine

Causes of sensitive skin

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