Woodcraft Magazine - Issue 111 FebruaryMarch 2023

p.
48
TURNING ACCESSORY CART
Projects, Techniques, and Products
p.31
Make a classic
STICKLEY
MUSIC
CABINET
Custom traditional
INTERIOR
SHUTTERS
Shop-made
PORE
FILLER
CNC project:
DOG
FEEDER
Custom traditional
INTERIOR
SHUTTERS
Shop-made
PORE
FILLER
CNC project:
DOG
FEEDER
Table of Contents
31 Feb/Mar 2023 | Issue 111
Willie Sandry
22
crafted this Arts
& Crafts inspired
cabinet, intended to
store sheet music,
based on an original
Stickley design.
For more from
Willie, check out his
YouTube channel,
The Thoughtful
Woodworker.
ON THE COVER 43
48 Features
22 Louvered Interior Shutters
Add privacy and panache to any window
with classically-styled shades.
28 Dog Feeder
A grand stand to aid Fido’s
kibble consumption.
31 Stickley Music Cabinet

A classic cupboard to store and display
sheet music and other treasures.
43 Pore Filling
Fill some holes in your finishing game
with this pre-finishing process.
48 Turning Accessory Cart

Keep your turning tools and accessories
close at-hand with a rolling shop stooge.
2 Cover photo: Willie Sandry

16
28
Departments 54
04 Getting Sharp 10
⏹ In defense of abandoned projects
This issue’s
06 News & Views
⏹ Way off base
Contributors
⏹ Reader-friendly
BOB BERNER, an Allentown, PA-based woodworker,
is a lifelong tinkerer, and has loved to take things
⏹ Fine and fair apart, modify, and improve them—even if they
⏹ Monkeying around didn’t need fixing. He recently added a CNC router
⏹ Refreshing tip
to his garage shop and has been making high-
end speaker kits for the audiophile community.
⏹ Stoolcraft Magazine? Read Bob’s article on page 28.
10 Reader Showcase SOPHIE GLENN is a metal worker, woodworker,

furniture designer, and sculptor based in Reading,
12 Tool Reviews PA. Her work has exhibited nationally in museums
⏹ PantoRouter ALL-IN and galleries including the Metal Museum in
Memphis, TN, The Fuller Craft Museum in Brockton,
MA, and the Mint Museum in Charlotte, NC.
16 Tips & Tricks Read Sophie’s article on page 62.
⏹ Segmented turning sled
⏹ Vise-saving jaws
⏹ Shop-made grinder guards
DAVID SLOAN has been making stuff out of wood
since he was a kid. He has been Editor of This Old
⏹ Finding the balance point House magazine, Editor and Publisher of American
Woodworker magazine and co-author of three New
54 Woodsense Yankee Workshop books with Norm Abram.
David was a contributing editor in this issue.
⏹ Wood Pores
56 Great Gear
⏹ Diablo SandNet
DAN THORNTON has been creating how-to
illustrations for over 35 years. He is a former art
⏹ General 147 Digital Caliper director at Fine Homebuilding and Woodworker’s
Journal magazines. He is now a full-time
60 Buyer’s Guide/Ad Index freelance illustrator. His spare time is
spent woodworking or fly fishing the
rivers of western Connecticut.
62 Expert Answers See Dan’s illustrations on page 28 and 48.
Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

Getting Sharp
Feb/Mar 2023 Vol. 19, Issue 111
In defense of abandoned projects Chief Editor: Chad McClung
Senior Editor: Ken Burton
Associate Editors: Sarah Marriage,
I f you’re anything like me and most of the woodworkers I know, you can glance around
your shop and find more than a few abandoned projects. In one form or another, you
have probably paused your progress on a project, small or large, and started some-
Derek Richmond
Art Director: Michael Church
Graphic Design Intern: Kelley Powell
Publisher: Beth Coffey
thing else. You may have had to set aside a personal project to make room for a job, a Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard
gift, or some other burst of creativity. Perhaps you needed a particular bit or a piece Circulation Support: Christie Wagner,
Rachel Herrod
of hardware, and you just haven’t made it to your local Woodcraft. Or maybe you
Circulation: NPS Media Group
simply got tired of working on your current project. Sometimes the well runs dry. Video Producer: Kevin Reed
Whatever the reason, this phenomenon doesn’t mean that we woodworkers enjoy shuffling
parts from one corner of the shop to another or that we’re quitters. You’re not quitting Subscriptions: (U.S. and Canada)
One year: $19.99
your commitment to the craft. Don’t let the cobweb-covered leg assemblies and empty Single copy: $8.99
carcasses bring you down. It’s not inspiring to have guilt over ditched projects. I think these [email protected]
half-finished undertakings should be viewed as encouraging. Consider those dovetailed (800) 542-9125
drawers in need of fronts as a testament to your quality work, lessons learned, or even future
Woodcraft Magazine
inspiration that keeps you creating. Whether it’s finally making a panel for that empty frame (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS 024-953) is
or starting something new, it’s about the journey. published bimonthly (Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar,
I love having a variety of creative projects to work on. It’s luxurious. Depending on my April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov)
by Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson
interest level or frame of mind, I might want to be working on something different. A project Ave., Suite A, Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel:
for every mood. In this issue, we offer an assortment of projects for folks of all sorts. CNC (304) 485-2647. Printed in the United States.
enthusiasts and pet lovers alike can find a fun feeder for your dog on page 28. Turners Periodicals postage paid at Parkersburg,
WV, and at additional mailing offices.
will enjoy the cart on page 48, designed to hold all your turning accessories and roll out of
the way when not in use. The traditional louvered shutters (p. 22) will appeal to the home POSTMASTER: Send address changes to
improvement crowd. Fans of Stickley furniture will find a classic music cabinet (p. 31) to Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020,
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020.
construct. And for when you’re in between near-finished projects, flip to page 43 to build
your pore-filling skills. Canada Post:
We hope you finish one or more of these projects, but if not, we understand. Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
Besides, abanded projects are good for our creativity. We have to keep Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
fabricating believable excuses as to why the project isn’t done. ■
©2023 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All
rights reserved. Woodcraft Supply, LLC
allows the purchaser of this magazine
to photocopy the included projects and
techniques solely for personal use. Any
Chad McClung, Chief Editor other reproduction of these projects and
[email protected]
techniques is strictly prohibited.
Safety First! Working wood can be

Share your ideas. Share a slick tip to win cash or a prize. News & Views: dangerous. Always make shop safety your
We love hearing from readers! And there Here’s your chance to help someone This catch-all column is where we do first priority by reading and following the
are all kinds of reasons to get in touch with become a better woodworker and our best to correct mistakes, publish recommendations of your machine owner’s
the crew at Woodcraft Magazine. Check get rewarded for the effort. Published feedback from readers, and share other
out the details below. submissions become the property of noteworthy news items. It’s easy to manuals, using appropriate guards and safety
Woodcraft Magazine. participate in this discussion. Just email devices, and maintaining all your tools properly.
General information: Email us at tips@woodcraftmagazine. us at [email protected] Use adequate sight and hearing protection.
4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A com and put “Tips & Tricks” in the subject and put “N&V” in the subject line.
Please note that for purposes of illustrative
P.O. Box 7020 line or visit woodcraftmagazine.com, and
Parkersburg, WV 26102 click on Contact. Share photos of your projects: clarity, guards and other safety devices may be
800-542-9125 Important: Please include your phone We’d like to see what you’re building. removed from tools shown in photographs and
number, as an editor may need to call you To show off your work send your photos illustrations in this publication.
Submit an article idea: if your trick is considered for publication. to [email protected],
Do you have a story idea? We’d love to or find us on social media.
hear about it. To find out how to submit a Have a tough woodworking question?
project or technique article, email us at
[email protected] and put
We’ll do our best to find the expert
and provide the answer. Email us at
󰈌󰋾󰕄󰗃󰐇 Scan to visit our website.
woodcraftmagazine.com
“Submission” in the subject line. [email protected] and
put “Expert Answers” in the subject line.
4
News & Views
Way off base

The dimensions for the base of the
Chimney Advent Calendar (Dec/
Jan 2023) were incorrectly
duplicated from the mantel
dimensions. The correct
dimensions for its base
should be 3/4 × 6 × 14". The
base dimensions can also
be customized to fit your
own mantel or display
space, as long as the
tree and chimney are
spaced and oriented so the
BASE
tree doesn’t interfere with 3⁄4 × 6 × 14"
pulling the dowel pins
out of the chimney side. Correct dimensions
Reader-friendly
This torture device you have produced is not designed to
be read by anyone over 20 years old. The infinitesimally
small type and horrid contrast make it a painful process to
attempt to read. The ads, of course, are clearly printed.
—Peter Chast, via email
Fine and fair

The San Diego Fine
Woodworkers Association
is accepting national and
international entries for
the 40th Annual Design
in Wood Competition
at the San Diego County
Fair. The event will run
from June 7 to July 4,
2023, with 23 categories
including contemporary 2022 Best New Entrant,
furniture, clocks, scrollsaw Allan Price. Gazing Tiger
fretwork, veneering,
and several carving and turning categories. More than
$20,000 in prizes will be awarded, including a $1,000
best in show prize. Entries will be accepted through April
29, and more information can be found at sdfwa.org.
6
News & Views
Monkeying around
I enjoyed WoodSense (Oct/Nov 2022)
on monkeypod. It brought back
memories of my time in the Navy
in 1970 at Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. As
a newly married couple, my wife and
I, living on base, needed furniture, and
the hobby shop on base sold monkeypod. We made
a coffee table, a 3-legged end table, and a small cribbage
board. We used these tables for many years and then gave
them to my in-laws. They used them at a vacation home for
many more years. We still have the cribbage board.
—Ken Erickson, West Richland, WA
Refreshing tip
When I try to read an article online, I’m prompted
to sign in. I click on the login page, sign in with my
subscriber credentials, then go back to the article,
only to see the same request to sign in. What gives?
—Jolene MacDougal, via emai
Woodcraft Magazine staff replies:

After signing in and clicking back to the article,
refresh your browser to complete the login.
Usually, that’s done by clicking a circular arrow
near the navigation bar. Happy reading!
Stoolcraft Magazine?
What’s with all the stools lately? You’ve had articles on a
camp stool (June/July 2022) and a four-legged stool (Aug/
Sep 2022). The most recent issue had another stool, and a
tip about leveling stools! ■
—Theodore Laurence, Erin, TX
8
Reader Showcase
EDWARD D’ANTONIO
BLUFFTON, SC
Cool beans. Novice woodworker
D’Antonio picked up a cast-iron
coffee grinder mechanism from
Woodcraft (#163372), then mounted
FRED WILLIAMS it atop a red oak and walnut
PARKERSBURG, WV box. The case measures
Not built in a day. Retired schoolteacher and avid 51⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 3", and both it and
carver Williams gave the classic game of dominoes a the drawer are assembled
twist. After cutting the tiles from basswood, he carved Roman using box joints. D’Antonio
numerals into each gamepiece, instead of traditional dots. attached the mechanism
Then he colored the carvings with artists paint. After making with lock washers to secure
three double-twelve sets, each comprising 91 dominoes, against vibration caused by
he crafted and carved a trio of basswood boxes featuring grinding the beans. Grounds fall into
simple miters, hinged lids, and brass clasps. The cases each the removable drawer, where they
measure 3 × 5 × 9". After months of carving, Williams dreamed can be scooped to make the
up the unique name for his invention: “Roman Ominoes.” morning joe.
BOBBY GILHAM
MARIETTA, OH
Nice job! Gilham, an employee at the Parkersburg, WV
Woodcraft, rummaged the store’s stock of claro walnut blanks
to create this beautiful chopping board. He wanted to show
customers what could be done with the product. The board
measures 191⁄2 × 125⁄8 × 11⁄2", and stands on raised feet. After gluing
DOUGLAS HEAD up the board, he sanded it and applied a food-safe finish to
THAYNE, WY enhance the walnut’s spectacular figure. We hope our readers
See saws. Wanting to appreciate his efforts as much as his customers do. ■
organize and display
his restored antique
handsaw collection,
Head designed and built this saw Show off your work!
rack. The body is crafted from poplar and walnut, with Do you want to see your work on these pages? Email us at
saw-shaped endcaps stained gray. Slots hold the Western [email protected].
saws, while magnets aid in hanging the Japanese saws.
The rack measures 371⁄4 × 50 7⁄8 × 87⁄8". The grain-matched
Scan for instructions.
drawers feature brass Disston saw medallions as pulls. It woodcraft.com/gallery
looks saw-some!
10
Tool Reviews
HOT NEW
TOOLS
Routed joinery made
quick and easy
PantoRouter ALL-IN Woodworking Machine Package
Articulated arm Guide bearing Ratcheting ONEIDA AIR SYSTEMS

hold-down clamp SUPER DUST DEPUTY
DELUXE CYCLONE
M&T template Turn your single-stage
collector into a two-stage
Detachable
dust brush system removing 99% of
dust and debris. Includes a
15-gallon dust collection bin,
anti-static resin cyclone, and
Tilting table adapters for 4 or 5" inlet and 4
or 6" outlet hoses.
#184393, $269.99
Dovetail template
JESSEM
POW-R-TEK SR
A few (of many) The Canadian toolmaker
Sliding carriage Depth stop M&T templates
added a 31⁄4 hp router motor
to its lineup. Standard 4.2"
diameter motor fits Jess-Em
and most other router
FEATURES as well, along with through dovetails, box lifts. Features redesigned
UTILITY joints, dowel joints, and more. The way spindle bearings, redirected
air exhaust, and remote
PRICE: $2,185 pantorouter.com the machine works is clever. The included
motor control speed switch.
CUTS: Bosch router is mounted to an articulated Includes 1⁄4 and 1⁄2" collets and
• 1
⁄8 -1" mortise and tenons arm which is, in turn, attached to a sliding spare brushes.
jessem.com, $499.99
• Fixed and variable-spaced dovetails carriage. Two handles control the router’s
• 1
⁄4 and 1⁄2" box joints movement: one advances and retracts the
• Dowel joints carriage while the other moves the router
• Other specialty shapes from side-to-side and up-and-down. Above
OTHER FEATURES: the router there is an aluminum extrusion
• Built-in dust collection port where you mount the template(s) for the
• Tilting table joint you’re cutting. Various sizes of guide
bearings inserted through the arm follow FESTOOL
Last summer I succumbed to a barrage the template and control the router’s path. CTC-SYS CORDLESS
EXTRACTOR
of internet advertising and acquired a To cut a mortise and tenon joint, for This 36-volt turbine dry
PantoRouter. I’d seen other horizontally- example, start by cutting the mortise. extractor packed into a
mounted routers before, but those were Mount the appropriate length template on T-LOC Systainer provides
portable dust suction. Runs
essentially just slot mortisers—a tool I the extrusion and chuck a straight bit sized on dual 18-volt batteries and
already have access to. The PantoRouter to match your mortise width (from 1/8-1" includes a remote control
promised to be a much more versatile dia.) in the router. Position your work- and shoulder strap. Features
a HEPA filter and three
joint-cutting machine capable not only of piece on the table and clamp it down. Set suction levels.
cutting mortises, but the matching tenons the depth stop and move the router back #576941, $399.00
12 Prices subject to change without notice.

Guide bearing
(configured to cut a tenon)
WE STAND
BEHIND
OUR GLUE.
See it in action.
Watch a short video
of the PantoRouter If it goes bad, even
in use. years from now,
we'll still replace it. facebook.com/
mercuryadhesives
It's that simple.
Available at your nearest
and forth to cut the mortise with the smallest of the
guide bearings running inside the template. To cut the
matching tenon, switch to a 1/2" straight bit (appropri-
ate for all tenon sizes) and choose the appropriate-sized
guide bearing for the thickness of the tenon you need.
Clamp your workpiece in place, set the depth, and
run the bearing around the outside of the template to
cut the tenon. To fine tune the fit, the outside of the
template is tapered. Start with the guide bearing run-
ning around the fattest part then move to the thinner
parts until you get the fit you want. While it may sound
complicated, in practice it works quite well and is fairly
intuitive to set up. For more photos of the tool in use,
see page 48 where I use the PantoRouter to cut face
frame joinery. Dovetails and other joints are cut with
a similar process, making use of the appropriate tem-
plates and bits (all supplied with the All-In package).
In all, I’m pleased with the machine and am look-
ing forward to exploring more of its capabilities in the
coming months. A few things to note as you get started:
There are a lot of loose pieces. You’re going to want some
way to keep them organized. A cart similar to the one on
page 48 may be in order. The PantoRouter website offers
similar plans (as well as an extensive library of how-to
videos). Also, the dust extraction system is excellent, but
after a few uses the detachable brush kept falling off. The
company’s tech support was great, but I still think I may
need to add a more positive latch. And finally, while the
instruction manual is comprehensive, I found its orga-
nization a little spotty. It definitely pays to go through
it several times to familiarize yourself with everything
before plugging in. ■
—Tester, Ken Burton

Tips & Tricks
Segmented turning sled

I turn a lot of segmented bowls.
To make cutting the segments for
the blanks easier, I devised this
runner-guided bandsaw sled which
can be configured to cut nearly BASE
TOP TIP any number (N) of segments (as 1
⁄2 × 10 × 18"
Segment stock
long as [N] divides evenly into
360). For example, to make a sled for cutting
eight segments, divide 360 by 8 (360÷8=45).
B
This gives you the angle (A) between the two
fences. Subtract (A) from 180 (180-45=135)
and divide by 2 (135÷2=67.5) to calculate the
angle (B) between the fences and the edge of the A
sled. Lay out the angles and screw the fences to B
the base. To cut the segments, start with a strip

of segment stock against the trailing fence and
make a cut to establish the first bevel. Hold the Finished FENCE
segment 3
⁄4 × 2 × 10"
strip against the sled’s leading fence, with its tip
RUNNER
against the saw’s fence positioned to serve as a 3
⁄8 × 3⁄4 × 18"
stop, and make the second cut to create the first
segment. Continue alternating between the two
fences as you cut the remaining seven segments. 1st cut 2nd cut 3rd cut...
Note that the width and length of the segment
pieces will vary depending on your bowl design.
—Jim Eckblad,
Decorah, Iowa
Vise-saving jaws
1 × 1" angle iron
If you don’t have a metalworking vise in your shop, securing
metal parts such as screws and rods can be troublesome.
They may slip in the jaws of your workbench vise, or the
hard material may damage the vise’s wooden faces. To solve
both problems, rest lengths of steel or aluminum angle iron
along the top of the jaws and grip the object in question
between them. There is usually no need to fasten them
in place; the pressure of the vise takes care of it for you.
—Larry Okrend,
Minneapolis, Minnesota
16 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

Strong Reusable Threads
Made Easy
E-Z LOK threaded insert
kits include everything
you need to make strong
reusable threads in wood.
Available in brass and
stainless steel. For more
information or to order, visit:
www.ezlok.co/woodcraft
THREADED INSERTS FOR WOOD

Tips & Tricks
Shop-made
Attach as dictated by
your available hardware.
grinder guards
Over the years, my bench grinder has proved to be a
valuable addition to my shop. It still runs like a champ,
but the original, clear plastic guards yellowed and cracked
some time ago. Rather than spend the time and effort to
find OEM replacements, I made my own from a pair of
inexpensive safety glasses meant for short-term visitors.
The lenses, designed to fit over regular glasses, are large
and offer excellent clarity. To make the guards, I removed
the temples and cut through the bridge with a fine-
toothed blade on my band saw. To fasten them to the
grinder, I drilled holes near the nose pads and used the
original bolts, washers, and wingnuts to attach them.
—David DePauw,
Cincinnati, Ohio
Share a slick tip.

Win CASH or a PRIZE!
Finding the
Here’s your chance to help someone
balance point become a better woodworker and get
rewarded for the effort. The winner of
I make a lot of wall-mounted pieces next issue’s Top Tip award will receive
designed to be hung via keyhole slots a Woodcraft Gift Card worth $250. All
or sawtooth hangers. Many of these others will receive $125 for a published
pieces aren’t symmetrical, however. So illustrated tip, or $75 for a non-illustrated
the hardware or slot must be located tip. Published tips become the
off-center to hang straight. Figuring property of Woodcraft Magazine.
out just how much off-center can be
tricky. To help with this, I modified 󰇰 EMAIL TIPS TO:
a quick-grip clamp by adding two [email protected]
opposing carpet tacks through holes
drilled in the clamp’s removable pads. 󰶌 OR MAIL TO:
To find the proper hanging point, Tips & Tricks
lightly grip the piece between Woodcraft Magazine
the tacks, shifting as necessary P.O. Box 7020
until it hangs as desired. When Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
I can’t risk scarring
the front face, I add a Important: Please include your
masking tape pad for phone number, as an editor
the outer tack to grip. ■ may need to contact you.
—Jim Beauchamp,
Kingspot, Tennessee
Scan for information.
woodcraftmagazine.com
18
EPOXY LIKE
®
FEATURE
Louvered Interior
SHUTTERS
Historic style meets modern utility
By Derek Richmond
C
ustom interior shutters offer more space inside even the largest windows. coastal weather out of the un-glassed
style than Venetian or vertical Best of all, with a little bit of math (see windows. As the shutters became more
blinds, and let in more light than Making a panel plan, p. 23), they can be popular, wood replaced marble, allowing
curtains. Rotate the movable louvers to custom-fit to your windows. for movable louvers. Their fashion spread
direct sunlight where you want it. Or While sometimes called plantation through Europe and they were eventu-
open the double bifold panel to really let shutters because of their popularity ally brought to the Americas by Span-
the outside in. My windows are tall, so I in antebellum estates of the American iards. Lacking access to a suitable marble
split the space into a top and bottom half; South, that name carries a troubled quarry, I built mine from poplar, painted
I can open the top panels for illumina- legacy, and anyway doesn’t tell the shut- white to match my window trim. Pine,
tion while keeping the bottom panels ters’ full story. Interior shutters actually basswood, or paulownia would work just
closed for privacy. And the bifold setup originated in Ancient Greece, where — as well; or use cherry or oak stained to
means they take up surprisingly little made of marble — they served to keep match your home’s existing trim.
22 Photos: Derek Richmond; Illustrations: Greg Maxson

Love your louvers
Each panel consists of a bridle-jointed orientation. A side-mounted control arm the Buyers Guide, p. 60, for sources and
frame filled with 21/2" wide louvers. The rotates all the louvers in a given panel at part numbers of those special compo-
louvers pivot on two types of specialized once. A router bit makes it easy to shape nents. If your windows aren’t deep enough
pins. Most of the pins allow the louvers the many (or in my case many, many, for the panels to fit inside, add mounting
to spin freely, while three or four sets of many) louvers, and a drill press jig makes strips to frame your shutters (see "Shutter
tension pins hold them in the desired boring their ends for those pins easy. See mounting", p. 27).
Tenon
#5 × 1" round head RAIL 1
⁄4 × 3 × 2" Shutter pin
5
brass screw ⁄8 × 31⁄2* × CTF
Screw eye
Chamfer
Blind hole
1
⁄4" dia. × 1⁄2" d.
STILE
3
⁄4 × 2" × CTF
Hinge
2"
1"
Chamfer
LOUVER
1
⁄2 × 21⁄2" × CTF
CONTROL ARM
3
⁄4 × 1⁄2" × CTF Blind hole * Vary width of rail as needed to make inside
5
⁄32" dia. × 3⁄4" d. dimension of panel an even multiple of 2.
CTF = Cut to fit
Making a panel plan

󰢨 Order of Work
First, determine the area to be covered by the opening width divided by the number of
Cut bridle joint in frame
shutters — either the inside of the window panels, less 3⁄16" (again, for clearance).
Drill stiles for louver pins
opening, or the inside of the mounting Determine the number of louvers by
Drill louvers for pins frame. For full-height shutters, the panel subtracting twice your desired rail width from
Rout louvers to shape height is the shutter opening height minus the panel height, and divide by 2. Round to
Create control rod 1
⁄4" (for clearance). For shutters with upper the nearest whole number. Then modify the
Assemble panels and lower panels, divide the result by 2. The width of the rails to make the opening in the
Install in windows individual panel width is the total shutter panel frame equal to this whole number.

Prepare the frame
After determining your shutter panel thicknesses, the mortises in the stiles are louvers can fully open and close. Drill the
sizes, mill the rails and stiles. Then rout offset toward the stiles’ outside face while beaded edge of the stiles to accept the
a bead on one edge of a face of each stile. the tenons on the rails are centered on the shutter pins (see Buyers Guide, p. 60).
Cut the bridal joints at the table saw using rails’ thickness. After cutting the tenons, Locate the first pin hole on each stile.
a tenoning jig (see OnlineEXTRA for use a miter fence and dado blade to reduce Then, using a fence with marks every two
a shopmade option, p.27) in conjunc- the tenons’ width to match the 3" depth inches, drill holes for the shutter pins by
tion with a blade with a flat-top grind. of the mortises. Then chamfer the inside advancing the initial layout mark along
To compensate for the pieces’ different edges of the rails at the router table so the the fence for each consecutive hole.
Standoff block
Backer board
Tenoning jig
Routed bead
Mortise the stiles. With the blade height set to 3", guide the stile Shoulders first. Cut the tenons’ shoulders on the
vertically past the blade while clamped to a tenoning jig. Flip it end ends of the rails at the table saw using a miter gauge.
for end to cut the opposite end, keeping the same face against the Either attach a stop block to your miter fence or use
jig. Then adjust the fence to widen the mortise to 1⁄4". A backer board a standoff block on your rip fence to position the cuts.
helps prevent tearout.
Backer board Marked fence
Initial pin location
Cheeks next. With the shoulders Drill for the pins. Bore the 1⁄4"-dia.,
3
cut, clamp the rails in a tenoning jig ⁄8" deep pin holes into the beaded
to make the two cheek cuts, flipping edge of each stile, aligning the initial
end for end and side to side to layout mark with the 2" marks on the
produce centered tenons. fence as you go.
24
Create the louvers and control arm
Mill the louvers to 1/2 × 21/2" and cross- using a beveled spacer for added sup- cut that requires little sanding. Mill the
cut to 3/16" short of your frame opening port as shown. For my setup, a 10° bevel control arm to size, leaving it an inch
width. Cut a few extra blanks to use for ripped off the corner of some 3/4"-thick longer than the center-to-center distance
set up and as spares. Measure and mark milled scrap served nicely. This operation between the topmost and lowest louvers.
the center of the end of one louver blank requires a 11/2-dia., 2" tall moulding bit, Rout a bullnose profile on one edge of
and use it to set up for drilling the pin and bits this large typically call for slow the control arms. On the opposite edge,
holes in the ends of all the louvers. Dial speeds. But I found that 22,000 rpm is safe drill holes for the screw eyes (see Buyers
in the louvers’ shape with setup stock, in this instance and produces a smooth Guide) that will attach it to the louvers.
Vertical Beveled spacer taped

fences to fence supports
routed louver.
Auxiliary
table
Drill the louvers. Use a pair of vertical Rout the louvers. Locate the router bit and fence to
fences attached to an auxiliary leave a small flat on each face of the louvers when all
table to orient and hold the louvers, four corners are routed. Adhere a spacer to the fence
then bore a 9⁄64"-dia.× 3⁄4" deep hole with double-faced tape to catch the otherwise wobbly
in both ends of every louver. piece on the outfeed side of the cut.
Rout the control arm. Use featherboards Drill for the screw eyes. Bore 1⁄16"-dia. holes 1⁄2" deep,
on the fence and table to safely rout the spacing them every two inches. The marked fence
bullnose profile into the front edge of each used to bore holes in the stiles doubles as a drilling
1
Spacer taped to fence control arm. A ⁄4"-radius roundover bit guide for the control arms, though I had to rip mine
creates a clean and elegant look. down a bit to clear the chuck.

Finish and assemble
Plan your finishing process carefully. If to fully assemble them before spraying. length of the control rod. Attach the
you’ve only got one or two panels, mask Either way, when you glue up, install the control rod to the louvers before install-
off the mortise and tenon joinery, then shutter pins in the louvers. Then assemble ing the panels in your windows. See the
finish the louvers and frame parts sepa- the frame around the louvers. Twist the Shutter mounting sidebar (right) for tips
rately before assembling and touching up; screw eyes into their pre-drilled holes, on installation options.
I built eight panels, so it made more sense oriented with their loops parallel to the
Clamp a stile in a bench vise, then

install the louvers without glue. Glue
in the rails, and finally top with the
opposite stile, slipping the shutter pins
into their holes. Check for square, and
clamp to dry.
26
Shutter mounting
With so many different window configurations,
I can’t address them all here, but in general you
have two options. If your windows are deeply set,
you may be able to install the shutters directly
in the window well, attaching the hinges to the
window’s jambs. For shutters with 21⁄2" louvers,
you’ll need at least 13⁄4" of clearance behind the
panels to allow the louvers to open properly.
You may still need to add a mounting strip to the
Shutter pin jambs so the shutters can swing past the casing.
If your windows don’t have the required
depth, you can add mounting strips to the
wall surrounding the window to screw the
Tension pin hinges to. Either remove the window casing
and attach the mounting strips in its place, or
Install shutter pins. Press or tap the pins into the ends of each it may be possible to attach the strips directly
louver until the shoulders butt against the louver ends. Install to the casing. No matter what, figure out your
tension pins in 3 or 4 louvers per panel to help the shutter set mounting system before making the shutters. ■
maintain its orientation.
Window glass
Jamb
Wall
Shutter
Casing
INSIDE MOUNT
Added
mounting strip
Shutter
Install the control arm. Pre-drill the front edge of each louver for
screws then slip a round-head screw through a screw eye installed OUTSIDE MOUNT
on the control arm, and drive it into the end of the corresponding
louver. Continue down the panel, connecting all the louvers to the
arm, allowing them to move in unison.
󰇀 onlineEXTRA
Visit our site for a free tenoning jig
project and louver drilling tip.
Scan for onlineEXTRAs

woodcraft.com/online-extras

FEATURE
Dog
FEEDER
An elevated platform for Phydeaux
By Bob Berner
W
hy must our faithful companions be relegated to banding is necessary. I topped the table surface with plastic
eating on the floor? This project will give them a laminate for durability and easy clean up.
stylish boost while helping to alleviate some poten- Please note that this table is not species specific and works
tial health issues along the way. My material of choice well for cats, too. Just don’t tell your kitty that the paw print
is Baltic birch plywood. The uniform plys look on the legs is modeled after a dog’s foot. It may cause issues. It
good enough when sanded and finished is, however, important to size this table to your pet; measure
that no edge the height of your pup at the withers (top of the shoulder)
and subtract about 6" to 8". This will give you the height of the
table from the floor. Cats don’t nearly vary so much in height,
but the same general rules apply. The table in the photos is for
a small dog, but there are cutting files for two larger sizes
online should you need them.
28 Photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: Dan Thornton

Routed parts and joinery make for quick assembly
The feeder consists of four parts cut from 15mm (5/8") The cutting files are designed to use the surface of the
Baltic birch plywood: a top, two legs, and stretcher. While CNC’s spoil board as a reference. This yields tenons on
designed to be cut with a CNC router, you can also cut the the ends of the legs and stretchers that are of a consistent
pieces out conventionally. Get the bowls first (see Buyer’s thickness, even if the plywood’s thickness varies.
Guide on p. 60) and then size the holes in the top to suit.
Side Detail Top Detail

1
⁄2" 5" 151⁄2"
1"
3
51⁄4" ⁄8"
7" 5" 5 5⁄8"

2" 11⁄4"
23⁄8"
6" 3
1" ⁄8"
4 9⁄16"
TOP
5
⁄8 × 7 × 151⁄2"
Laminate
7 × 15 1⁄2"
Tenon
3
⁄8 × 5 × 1⁄2"
Mortise
3
⁄8 × 11⁄4 × 1⁄2" deep Mortise
3
⁄8 × 5 × 1⁄2" deep
STRETCHER
5
⁄8 × 1 3⁄4 × 131⁄4"
Tenon
3
⁄8 × 11⁄4 × 1⁄2"
󰢨 Order of Work 󰇀 onlineEXTRAS
Cut out parts Cutting files for 3 sizes of feeder
LEG
Rout and sand Video of the CNC cutting process 5
⁄8 × 51⁄4 × 6"
Finish and assemble
Apply laminate

Cut, assemble,
and laminate
After carefully zeroing the bit on the
surface of the spoil board, cut the parts
out. I used a 1/8" diameter “Wonder”
bit (see Buyers Guide, p. 60) running
at 22,000 RPM and 80" per minute.
These bits are capable of making the Bit: 1⁄8" diameter,
entire cut in one pass. The resulting 22,000 RPM,
80"/minute
chips pack in the kerf eliminating the
need for tabs. After the pieces are cut,
round over all exposed edges of the
legs and stretcher, and the bottom
edge of the top at the router table with
a 1/8" roundover bit. Sand everything Set the zero point. The X and Y origin point is at the
before gluing the parts together. Finish lower left corner of the 161⁄2 × 17 3⁄4" blank with the Z
the assembly with several coats of zero point on the surface of the spoil board. Two fixed
polyurethane before laminating the fences with opposing wedge pairs make positioning
top surface. and holding easy.
Trace and stick. Trace the table shape onto the back of the Trim away the excess. Drill a 1⁄2" access hole through each of the
laminate. Spread contact cement on both the mating surfaces and bowl holes. Trim the laminate even with the top using a flush trim bit
allow to dry. Align the table with the tracing and press the pieces chucked in a trim router. File the edges smooth. ■
together firmly.
30
FEATURE
Stickley
MUSIC CABINET
An Arts-and-Crafts
classic makes an heirloom
display case
By Willie Sandry
I
n the early 20th century, furniture maker
Gustav Stickley was famous for his solid oak
Craftsman furniture. Also called “Mission”
or “Arts & Crafts,” this stout, no-frills style is
as popular today as it was over a century ago.
Stickley’s straightforward designs—made of quar-
tersawn white oak with prominent joinery—were
intended to be an “honest” alternative to the fake
joinery, gaudy frills, and shoddy work found on
much of the mass-produced furniture of the time.
This handsome cabinet appeared as item No.
70 in Stickley’s 1909 Craftsman Furniture cata-
log. It was dubbed a “music cabinet” because it
was sized to store sheet music, which was very
popular in its day. With four adjustable shelves
and an open area on top, it makes a lovely display
cabinet or bookcase.
In keeping with Stickley tradition, the cabi-
net is made of solid wood throughout. The side
panels, top, bottom, and shelves are all quarter-
sawn white oak.
Stickley finished his original furniture by
fuming with ammonium hydroxide fumes which
react with the tannin in white oak to create a rich
brown accentuating the quartersawn figure. I got
similar results with an oil-based stain without all
the hassle of fuming.
I made the leaded glass panels myself (see OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
20" wide × 47" tall × 16" deep
onlineEXTRAS, p. 32), but you could source
them from a local artist if you prefer. But you
could substitute plain glass panels or a frame-and-
panel wooden door—an option Stickley offered
in his 1909 catalog.

Solid oak 7
⁄8" r.
panels with
mortise and
tenon joinery SIDE
7
⁄8 × 16 × 461⁄2"
see side detail, p.36
STILE
3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 411⁄4"*
RAIL
3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 161⁄8"*
Fixed shelves top and bottom connect the sides

by stub and through mortise and tenon joinery. 1
⁄4" white oak
Lower rails are tenoned to fit mortises in the dowel, 11⁄2" long
sides and then screwed to the bottom shelf. A
A
backsplash is glued to the top between the sides. Tenon
1
The back assembly consists of a rabbeted mortise ⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 1"
and tenon frame that holds three shiplapped

boards and sits in rabbets routed in the sides. B
Mortise
Inside the case, four adjustable shelves sit on 1
⁄2 × 21⁄2"
shelf pins, providing ample storage. The door
frame is constructed using mortise and tenon NARROW
PANEL
joinery and mortised to accept muntins and BOARDS
3
a mullion, which are half-lapped together. All ⁄4 × 51⁄8 × 37 1⁄4"*
door parts are rabbeted to hold glass panels.
Attractive details abound, from subtle reveals
and shadow lines to chamfered tenons and
oak dowel pins. The piece is finished with a
stain that makes the white oak’s ray fleck pop,
and it’s all topped with handsome hardware.
7
⁄16" BALL
CATCH
WIDE PANEL
BOARD
3
⁄4 × 5 5⁄8* × 37 1⁄4"*
󰢨 Order of Work
Make and assemble case
Make and assemble door
Make and assemble back
Sand and finish
Hang door #6 × 5⁄8"
Attach back FH SCREWS
Install hardware & shelves

Tenon
1
⁄2 × 21⁄2 × 11⁄8"*
󰇀 onlineEXTRA
Visit our site for the Cut List and Materials, a Tenon
3
Leaded Glass Video Tutorial, and a free article ⁄8 × 11⁄8 × 5⁄8"*
download on Installing an Inset Door.

32 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

BACKSPLASH
3
⁄4 × 27⁄8 × 191⁄8"* Hinges located 31⁄2" from top
3
⁄16" of door, 41⁄4" from bottom.
TOP/BOTTOM SHELF
3
⁄4 × 151⁄8 × 201⁄2"
see side detail, p.35 Mortise
1
⁄2"
1
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 11⁄16" deep,
1
⁄2" from end, 3⁄16" from rear face.
UPPER RAIL
⁄4"
1 HINGE STRIP
7
⁄8 × 25⁄16 × 151⁄8"*
1
⁄4* × 7⁄8* × 40"* G
STILE
7
⁄8 × 21⁄2 × 40"*
1
⁄2" F
Dado
1
⁄2 × 15 5⁄8 × 7⁄16" deep F
G
Mortise E
1
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 1" deep MULLION
7
⁄8 × 11⁄4 × 3611⁄16"* Notch
5
⁄8 × 7⁄16" deep
7 5⁄8"
D 141⁄4"
G PULL
Notch
7 3⁄16" 11⁄4 × 7⁄16" deep
ADJUSTABLE F
SHELF
3
⁄4 × 141⁄8* × 18 3⁄16"*
MUNTIN
7
⁄8 × 11⁄4 × 151⁄8"*
E
Mortise
1
⁄4 × 5⁄8 × 11⁄16"
deep
RETAINING
C STRIP
3
⁄8 × 5⁄16" × CTF*
GLASS
1
⁄16 × 6 9⁄16" square
G
Mortise Mortise
3
⁄8 × 11⁄8 × 5⁄8" deep ⁄4 × 23⁄16 × 11⁄16" deep
1
LOWER RAIL F
7
⁄8 × 3 × 151⁄8"*
A Rabbet D Rabbet
1
⁄2 × 3⁄8" deep on ends 3
⁄4 × 43 3⁄8 × 7⁄16" deep
and opposite edges
Stub tenon
⁄2 × 14 5⁄8 × 7⁄16"*
1 #8 × 11⁄2" E 5Rabbet
B Rabbet ⁄16 × 7⁄16" deep
FH SCREWS 1
⁄2 × 3⁄8" deep on ends and
edges F Rabbet (Front tenon cheek)
FRONT/REAR RAIL 1 × 7⁄16"deep
3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 191⁄2"* Rabbet
C 1
⁄2 × 3⁄8" deep routed after G 11Rabbet (Rear tenon cheek)
frame assembly ⁄16 × 3⁄16" deep
*Cut to fit Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

Cabinet Sides:
dadoes, mortises,
and rabbets
Glue up stock for the 7/8"-thick cabinet sides
and 3/4"-thick fixed and adjustable shelves,
then cut the sides and fixed shelves to size.
Rout stopped dadoes in the sides, as shown,
and chisel their front ends square. Drill starter
holes in the dadoes, then rout through mortises
on the outside and square the ends. Finally,
rout 3/4"-wide x 7/16"-deep rabbets in the sides
for the back, stopping 3-1/8" from the bottom
ends. Again, square the joints using a chisel.
Rout stopped dadoes. Clamp a straightedge to 1

⁄2" spiral upcut bit,
see p. 60
the side, and rout 1⁄2" wide dados where shown in the
drawing on page 36, stopping 3⁄8" from the front edge.
Make two passes to reach the 7⁄16" depth.
Layout lines
1
⁄4" flush trim
spiral upcut bit
Drilling for mortises. After marking the location of the Rout through mortises. The bearing rides along the
shelves’ 1⁄2" × 21⁄2" through tenons, drill a 3⁄16" hole through edges of the dado to make through mortises the same
the dado as shown. Then flip over the side to drill a 5⁄16" width as the dado. But use your eyes to stop just shy of
diameter hole from the outside face. your layout lines at the ends.
34 Photos: Willie Sandry

Through tenons
for fixed shelves 1
7
⁄8"
21⁄2" 9" 1
⁄4"
⁄4"
Set your rip fence to establish the 11/8" long
tenons, and, using a dado stack, saw the tenons
to thickness. Start a hair under 3/16" and raise the
blade, milling both faces of both ends of each shelf
until the tenons fit their respective mortises. Set
your blade height to 1/4" and hold the piece on its
front edge to saw small shoulders on the front of
both shelves. Set the blade height to 11/16", reset
the fence, and hold the piece on end to cut the 1/4"
shoulders at the outside of the rear through tenons.
Now, reset the fence once more to cut the shoulder Front
7/8" from the front, establishing the outside of the 201⁄2"
front through tenons. Finally, cut the waste from
between the tenons, checking the fit as you go.
Sacrificial auxiliary
rip fence
Front of shelf
Miter guage
11 1 1⁄8"
⁄16"
Sawing the shoulder. With a shelf’s front against the 151⁄8"
table, raise the dado blade to 1⁄4" and cut a shoulder in
the fixed shelves. No shoulder is required on the back.
Sacrificial auxiliary
miter guage fence
Front
Table saw tenons. After establishing the outside

shoulders of the shelf tenons, trim them to fit their
mortises (about 21⁄2" wide) and remove the waste.

Shaping and connecting the sides
Make a template from 1/2" MDF using the side pattern guide on your plunge router and a 3/8"-diameter spiral bit,
(below). Use the template to draw the top profile and the rout the 11/8 × 3/8 × 5/8"-deep mortises for the rails, where
bottom arch on the sides, and jigsaw just outside the line. shown in the drawing (below). Chisel the mortises square.
Now, with the same template, flush-trim the profile and Make the rails and cut their tenons to fit. Drill the holes
arch using a bearing-guided router bit. Using an edge in the sides to dowel the fixed shelves’ frontmost tenons.
Side Pattern Side Detail

16"
21⁄8"
1 3⁄8"
1" 1
⁄2"
21⁄2" 9" 5
⁄8"
461⁄2"
3
11⁄8" ⁄8"
1
3 ⁄8" 11
15
⁄16" ⁄16"
11
1 ⁄16"
4" r.
3" 10"
Double-bearing
spiral combo bit
Template rout the side. After sawing to

rough shape, clamp the template to the
workpiece and trim the arch using a router
with a bearing-guided bit.
36
Assemble
the case
At the drill press, bore and
counterbore three clearance holes
along the bottom of both rails to
connect to the bottom shelf. Sand
and dry-assemble the case. Measure
diagonals to check for square and
make any necessary adjustments.
When satisfied, reassemble the case
using glue and clamps. Apply glue
sparingly to the cheeks of the through
tenons, to keep the exposed joinery
clean. Skip glue between the bottom
rails and the fixed shelf, as screws will
secure that joint. Once assembled,
drill through the four tenon-dowel
holes into the front tenons, and
pin the joints with 1-1/2" lengths of
1/4" diameter white-oak dowel and
glue. Saw them flush when dry and
then chamfer the through tenons.
Glue-up strategy. After gluing in the

fixed shelves and rails on one side, attach
the opposite side. Allowing the case
to overhang an assembly table grants
clamping access, while small clamps keep
the rails in place during glue-up.
Drill for dowels. Use a doweling jig and 1⁄4" Fasten rails to shelf. Drill pilot
brad-point bit to drill holes in the front edge holes into the bottom shelf
of each side to dowel the fixed shelves’ before driving the #8 × 11⁄2"
through tenons. screws to secure the rails.

Making the door
Mill your door parts plus setup stock to
size. On the inside edges of the frame
parts and both edges of the muntins
and mullion, saw rabbets 5/16" wide and
half the stock thickness deep (about
7/16"). For safety, use a featherboard and
pushstick when milling the narrow parts.
Layout the mortises in the frame parts
according to the drawing (p. 33), and
mill them 11/16" deep. Adjust to saw the
1" front tenon cheeks, and make the cuts
with the workpiece against an auxiliary
fence attached to your miter gauge.
Readjust to saw the tenons to thickness
and then create the haunch. Notch the
muntin and mullions as shown. And
dry fit before committing parts to glue.
Mortise the door frame. After rabbeting

the frame parts at the table saw and
marking their mortise locations, drill them
using a 1⁄4" bit at the hollow chisel mortiser.
Mortise for mullion
Tenon door parts. Set your rip fence to saw 1" tenons
on the front face of the muntins, mullion, and the frame
rails, as shown here.
38
G
Establish tenon thickness. Reset your fence to saw the 11⁄16" rear Haunch the tenon. Without changing your fence setting, raise
tenon cheek on the door parts. Raise the dado stack incrementally the dado stack height to 1⁄2". Then, notch the frame rails as shown to
until the resulting tenon thickness fits its mortise. create the haunched tenon.
Notch the mullion. Set your dado stack to the narrow width of Notch the muntins. Use the fence to locate one end of the notch
the muntins (about 5⁄8", but measure yours), and raise its height to in the muntin’s front face. Make the cut, flip the piece end for end,
half your stock thickness. Then notch four half-laps on the back and make the second cut as shown. Adjust the fence and repeat
of the mullion. the process until the half-lapped parts fit together tightly.
Dry-fit the door. Attach the muntins to the mullion, then install
the rails before inserting that assembly into a stile clamped to
your assembly table. Then lower on the other stile and make any
necessary adjustments before glue-up.

A frame and
shiplap panel
Measure your cabinet back’s opening to
find the length of the 3/4"-thick by 2-1/2"-wide
frame parts. Crosscut the parts to length.
Rout 1/4 × 1-1/2 × 1" deep mortises in the stiles
where shown in the drawing (p. 32), and
cut the rail tenons to fit. Assemble the back
frame. Secure the frame, and rout a 1/2"-wide,
3/8"-deep rabbet around the frame’s interior
in two passes. Chisel the corners square.
For the panel, mill two 3/4"-thick boards
5-1/8" wide and one about 5-5/8" wide. (See
drawing, p. 32.) Cut their length to fit the
inside of your frame. For the two narrow
boards, mill a 1/2" wide, 3/8" deep rabbet
into one edge and then flip them over
to rabbet the opposite edge. Saw rabbets
in the same face for the wider board.
At the drill press, pre-drill pilot holes
and countersinks in the boards. Install
them as shown. Avoid using glue to
allow for seasonal wood movement.
Assemble back frame. After making the frame

parts to fit the back of your case and cutting the
joinery, apply glue to each joint and tap them
together as shown.
1
⁄2" bearing-guided
rabbet bit
A long auxiliary base helps Rout the rabbet. Using a Install shiplap panel. Lay in one board at a time,
to prevent the router from bearing-guided bit, rout a 1⁄2" hand-driving #6 × 5⁄8" screws through pre-drilled
tipping into the work.
wide rabbet 3⁄8" deep in two holes at their ends and along the outside edges of
successively deeper passes, the outside boards. Use a 1⁄16" spacer to place the
moving the router clockwise. center board.
40
Finishing
touches
Mill a 7/8"-wide hinge strip to match
the thickness of your hinge barrel, and
cut it to fit between the top and bottom
shelves in the case front. Glue it in
place. With the back panel temporarily
A plywood
installed, cut the backsplash to size.
spacer ensures Cut the four adjustable shelve to fit,
hole alignment.
and trim the door to final size, aiming
for a 1/16" reveal (see onlineEXTRAs).
Drill for shelf pins. After locating the four adjustable shelves to align with the Glue the backsplash in place. Sand
door’s muntins, use a jig (see p. 60) to drill the shelf pin holes in the front and and finish all of the components.
rear (shown) of the case sides. Locate and drill the 1/4" shelf pin
holes for the adjustable shelves.
Pre-drill for the hinge screws, then
install the no-mortise hinges loosely
to hang the door and set the vertical
reveal. The barrel of the hinge abuts
Spacer the hinge strip, and the 1/16"-thick
hinge leaf sets the reveal side-to-side.
Install the glass panels and reattach
the door. Attach the ball catch and
door pull. Finally, use 18 gauge × 11/4"
brads to attach the back panel. ■
shiplap screws
7
⁄16" brass
ball catch
Set the reveal. Install the hinges on the door first through pre-drilled holes.
Then locate the door’s vertical position using a 1⁄16" spacer and hand-tighten
the hinge screws holding the door to the cabinet..
3" no-mortise
hinge
Cut-to-fit A note on finishing

retaining strip.
An oil-based stain brings out the character
of the quartersawn white oak. The color I
use isn’t available nationally, but it’s similar
to General Finishes Candlelight oil-based
stain (See p. 60). Finish it off with the
topcoat of your choice; I used two coats of
satin lacquer, applied with a sprayer.
Install glass panels. Place the panels and then secure them by pinning pre-
finished retaining strips into the frame as shown.

FEATURE
Pore
FILLING
A recipe for enhancing
your ring-porous projects
By Robert J. Settich
Rough ridges
Smooth surface
Pockmarked with pores. Ring-porous

woods such as red oak can display a
smooth surface followed by a darker
band punctuated with large pores and
rough ridges.
T
he cells in a tree perform an intricate symphony, har- relies on the simple ingredients painters traditionally used to
monizing water, soil nutrients, carbon dioxide, and make putty: oil and whiting powder—a pulverized form of
sunlight into a living composition that produces habitat, calcium carbonate used as a mild abrasive and filler in paints.
oxygen, shade, and beauty. But the music dramatically changes It’s available at most paint and hardware stores (see Buyer’s
when a tree transitions into lumber. Some of the tree’s previ- Guide, p. 60). The old-timers would dump a pile of whiting
ously hidden features can display incredible beauty, but the onto a mixing board, form a well in the center, pour in oil,
walls of some empty cells appear as prominent pores that can and mix with a spatula until the mass congealed into a ball.
be completely out of tune with your project. Even though you’ll use identical ingredients, you’re not
For example, if you apply a gloss finish to a ring-porous aiming to make a putty for filling nail holes or repairing
wood such as red oak, the smooth portions of the wood dented or missing wood. Instead, you’re going to use the
produced by the tree’s latewood growth reflect light evenly. oil as a lubricant while you drive the whiting into the pores,
But the prominent pore structure in the earlywood appears creating an overall surface-smoothing treatment. And while
as dark craters or even furrows, spoiling the overall effect. the old recipe used a slow-drying oil such as linseed, you’ll
Fortunately, it’s not difficult to fill the distracting pores update that with a modern oil finish that has a drying agent
so that you’ll have a uniformly smooth surface. The process for a firm grip in the pores. Let’s get started.

Pore-packing
procedure
Mix a few particular but easy-to-
get items to form a paste. Oil the
surface and then press the paste
into the pores. Rub it in, squeegee
it off, and let it dry. Then sand the
surface smooth and seal it with
shellac. A simple procedure, and
there’s even room to experiment.
Make the pad. To make an applicator pad,
1 cut cotton cloth into 8" squares. Old t-shirts
are ideal. Wad two of them into the center of a
third one and bind it with a rubber band.
Corrugated cardboard
protects work surface.
Work rests on carpet Burlap scraps

tack strips with fastening
nails removed.
Wipe the excess. Use a window squeegee to remove

4 excess slurry. Stroke at a 45° angle to the grain direction.
Wipe lightly with burlap scraps on edges and curved
surfaces that you can’t squeegee.
Horsehair
brush to clean
sandpaper
Sand the surface. After overnight drying, lightly hand-

6 sand with 120-grit paper, frequently unclogging your
sanding block. Sand just enough to remove the overall
haze. Get too aggressive, and you’ll sand away the filler.
44 Photos: Robert J. Settich

Ketchup-style Cheese shaker
squeeze container filled with whiting
Ring-porous
red oak
Wet the work. After sanding the wood to Mix a slurry. Sprinkle whiting onto the oil, mixing it into a
2 final smoothness, squirt on enough oil finish
3 slurry resembling runny pancake batter. Add more oil or
to liberally wet the surface when you spread it whiting to get the consistency right. Push the mixture into
with your applicator pad. the pores with a figure-8 motion.
For darker woods
Rottenstone
Check your progress. The surface will be slightly hazy,

5 and a few squeegee lap marks are fine. The oil dries
slowly, so you have plenty of open time. If the pores aren’t
completely filled, apply a fresh dose of slurry.
Ring-porous black walnut
The dark side. To make a darker filler, keep some whiting in

Ready for finish. Use a vacuum to remove all dust, then the mix as a binding agent but add rottenstone to deepen the
7 apply a thin coat of gloss shellac to check your success. tone. (Dark grey in color, rottenstone is powdered porous rock,
You can apply more filler over the shellac or move ahead usually weathered limestone mixed with silica, sold as a polishing
to your first coat of finish. abrasive.) You can premix the powders or do it on the fly.

Add a distinctive accent to your
project by trying non-traditional
materials such as metallic or
pearlescent powders.
Even spices can

brighten your filler.
Explore decorative
filler effects
After you master the basic techniques can also provide interesting results
of pore filling, you can expand as part of a filling compound.
your horizons to include decorative You can generate effects that are
options. Whatever you add, it’s a colorful, metallic, pearlescent, or
good idea to always include some all of the above. You can even buy a The spice is right. Here’s a board filled
whiting to provide body and powder that will glow in the dark. with whiting but then spiced with a pinch of
help the filler grip the wood. You can also experiment with paprika and a dash of silver glitter.
As with any new technique, powdered metals you buy in a
preview the result on a small test crafts store or file yourself. These
panel instead of immediately can add highlights of copper, brass,
slathering an untried compound all or aluminum to your project.
over a project. Exercising restraint At a completely different level, you
is also a prudent approach. You can literally spice up your project
have every right to satisfy your by exploring the spectrum at your
personal taste, but recognize that grocery store. Choose among the To learn more about the formation
subtle effects are usually easier to subtle tone of cinnamon, the warm of different pore types in living trees,
live with than garish drama. glow of turmeric, or the blazing please turn to the Woodsense article
PolyColor powders usually tint colors of paprika and cayenne. “Wood Pores” on page 54.
Alumilite casting resin, but they Have fun and happy filling. ■
46
FEATURE
CART
Turning Accessory
A sharpening “stooge” with tons of storage
By Ken Burton
I
needed to bring order to my burgeon- something similar for my turning set up. chest of drawers with a lift-up back panel
ing collection of turning tools and At the top of the list was a stand for my seemed to fit the requirements. I sized
accessories. As I was thinking about sharpening system followed by plenty of the drawers to fit my chucks and chisels,
how to do this, I recalled Jim Tolpin storage space for chucks, chisels, and the with the top of the case at a good height
talking about his three shop “stooges” like. Finally, I wanted a panel for hanging for sharpening. Then I designed the back
in the book Working at Woodworking calipers and other tools and supplies and panel so it could be raised when needed,
(Taunton Press, 1991). These were a a tray for the three or four chisels I’m but collapsed quickly to get it out of the
series of mobile carts and helpers that he actively turning with. The whole thing way. So far, my turning stooge has been
used to make efficient use of his limited had to be mobile and not take up too a tremendous addition to the shop.
shop space. It occurred to me I could do much valuable real estate. A roll-around
48 Photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: Dan Thornton

A sturdy cabinet houses dovetailed drawers
The plywood cabinet is assembled with tongue and groove laminated MDF countertop. Inside, dovetailed drawers
joinery. Mortise-and-tenoned face frames fore and aft along glide in and out on heavy-duty, full-extension drawer slides
with the intermediate back panel prevent racking. The tool (see page 52 for drawer details). The entire unit rolls around
panel slides up and down in the space behind the plastic- on 4" swiveling casters.
TOOL PANEL
3
⁄4 × 29 × 331⁄2" COUNTER Tongue
1
11⁄2 × 21 × 351⁄2" ⁄4 × 1⁄4" long
LAMINATE 3
⁄4"
221⁄2 × 37"
EDGING 3 3⁄4"
3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 37"
1
⁄2"
Groove
1
⁄4 × 3⁄8" deep
EDGING PANEL SPACER
SIDE 3
⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 21" 3
⁄4 × 1 × 27 7⁄8"
3
⁄4 × 251⁄4 × 29 3⁄8"
TOP SPACER
3
⁄4 × 4 × 341⁄4"
RAIL
7
⁄8 × 1 3⁄4 × 341⁄4"
3
⁄8" dia. dowel
TRAY BOTTOM Tenon

3
3
⁄4 × 8 × 15" ⁄8 × 1 3⁄8 × 11⁄8"
BACK
HOLDER 1
⁄4 × 281⁄8 × 341⁄4"
3
TRAY SIDE ⁄4 × 1 × 8"
1
⁄4 × 1 3⁄4 × 15"
STILE
7
⁄8 × 1 9⁄16 × 29 3⁄8"
DRAWER
TRAY END SPACER
3
1
⁄4 × 1 3⁄4 × 81⁄2" ⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 27 1⁄8"
Mortise
3
⁄8 × 1 3⁄8 × 11⁄8"
CASTER PAD BOTTOM
3
3
⁄4 × 6 × 6" ⁄4 × 24 3⁄4 × 341⁄4"
CASTER
󰢨 Order of Work
1"
Make case
Make face frames Tongue
1
⁄4 × 3⁄8" long
Make drawers
Make tool panel
Laminate countertop
Finish and assemble

Make the case
Back groove
Cut the plywood for the sides and
bottom to size. Also cut a piece for the
top spacers to length, but leave it about
9" wide until after you cut the tongues
on its ends. Set up a 1/4" dado blade
and cut grooves in the side pieces
for the top and bottom joints as well
as for the back. Also cut a matching
groove in the bottom to receive the
back. Increase the width of the dado
to 5/8" and lower the cutting height a
touch (<1/16") to guarantee the tongues
aren’t too long to seat properly. Cut
tongues on the ends of the bottom and
top spacers. Then lower the blade to
1/4" and cut tongues on the front and
back edges of the sides to mate with
the face frames. Support the pieces
with a tall auxiliary fence added to the
saw’s rip fence. Rip the top spacers to
Cut the grooves. Set a 1⁄4" dado to saw halfway width before gluing up the case. Cut
through your plywood pieces. No need to measure, the back to fit and fasten it in place.
simply use the plywood’s laminations as a gauge.
Spacers
Square
clamping
braces
Cut the matching tongues. With a tall Assemble the case. Working alone, I found it easier
auxiliary fence in place, run the pieces to assemble the case on its side, clamping the bottom
vertically past the blade to cut the tongues. in place before turning everything upright to clamp
Auxiliary fence Start cutting them too thick, then bump the across the top spacers. Shop-made braces clamped in
fence in to fine-tune the fit. the corners help to keep the assembly square.
50
Make the face
frames and tool
panel tracks
Mill the stiles and rails for the face
frames to size—the dimensions given
include the length of the tenons. Cut
mortises in the stiles where shown
in the drawing on page 49. I used a
PantoRouter (see page 12), but there
are many other methods. Cut the
mating tenons on the ends of the rails.
Glue the frames together. Then cut 1/4
× 1/4" grooves in the inside face of the
stiles to match the tongues you cut on
the case sides. Glue the frames to the
case. Cut the panel spacers to size and
screw them to the case sides as shown.
Cut the mortises. Attach a 11⁄2" mortise template to the
PantoRouter. Clamp the stiles to the table and rout the
mortises with a 3⁄8" spiral bit. Because the bit is smaller
than the inside of the template, the mortise will be
shorter than the nominal size of the template.
Brush removed
for clarity.
Scrap plywood
Cut the tenons. Switch to a 1⁄2" bit to cut the Add the panel spacers. Hold a scrap of the plywood
tenons. Set the rear carriage stop so you can you’ll be using for the tool panel between the back of
use the end of the bit to register the rails on the the face frame and the panel spacer as you screw the
table before clamping them in place. Cut the spacer in place.
tenons. For more information, see page 12.

Make and
hang the drawers
Mill the drawer sides and fronts to size and cut the corner joints. I
used a router and a dovetail jig. Groove the pieces and install the
drawer bottoms before gluing the drawers up. Mill drawer spacers to
sit flush with the inside of the face frame and screw them to the case
sides. Attach the drawer runners to the sides of the drawer boxes.
Instead of centering them, I mount them flush with the bottom of the
box meaning I can simply rest everything on my bench top as I screw
the pieces together. Mount the other sides for the slides to the inside
of the case using a spacer as shown.
Spacer
Hold flush
with front.
Install the slides. To position the slides inside the

case, cut a scrap of plywood to use as a spacer.
Start with the top drawer then cut the spacer
down for the second drawer and so on.
Drawer Details
BOTTOM DRAWER SIDE
1
⁄4 × 18 3⁄4 × 301⁄4" 5
⁄8 × 3* × 20"
31⁄4" DRAWER BACK
3
⁄4 × 3* × 31"
31⁄4"
Groove
1
41⁄4" ⁄4 × 1⁄4"
41⁄4"
41⁄4" DRAWER FACE†

7
⁄8 × 31⁄4* ×32"
20" full-extension
6 5⁄8" drawer slide * There are three drawer heights: 31⁄4", 41⁄4", and 6 5⁄8".
Drawer boxes are 1⁄4" shorter.
† Cut to fit your face frame.
52
Make the tool panel,
trays, and tool holders
Cut the plywood for the tool panel and tray bottoms
to size. I used 3/4" Baltic birch for both strength and
looks—no need to edge band, just roundover and sand
the edges. Cut and attach the tool holders to one of Spacer
the trays and add sides to the other. Drill both trays
for their hanging dowels. Position the tool panel in its
slot and drill for the barrel bolts that will hold it up.
Prop
Cut the tool holder. To make the scalloped tool holder, cut a piece Mark for the barrel bolt. With the tool panel propped up by two
of stock to 3⁄4 × 21⁄8 × 8". Drill four 11⁄2" holes along its length then cut 24" long scraps, temporarily clamp 1⁄4 × 2 × 5" spacers to its bottom
the piece in half at the table saw. edge and use the barrel bolts to mark the inside of the face frame
for the support holes.
Add the laminate. Cut the laminate about 1" oversize in width and
length. Spread contact cement on the mating surfaces and allow it
Make the to dry. Position the laminate over the counter on shelf standards or
dowels. When you’re happy with the placement, slip the standards
counter top out and apply firm pressure to set the bond, before trimming the
plastic flush.
and finish up
Laminate two pieces of 3/4" MDF to form
the counter. Attach the edging and trim
it flush with the surfaces before covering Shelf standards
the counter with plastic laminate. Cut

the drawer faces to size and fit them to J-roller
the opening in the face frame before
screwing them to their respective
drawer boxes. Sand everything before Protective cover
finishing. I used a satin polyurethane

for durability. Install the drawer pulls Laminate shears
and screw the counter in place. Slip
the tool panel in place and add the 1/4"
spacers before screwing the barrel bolts
in place. Bolt the casters to the caster
pads and screw them to the underside of
the case. Hang your prefered selection
of tools from the panel before taking
your new stooge for a spin. ■

Woodsense
Wood Pores
Tiny holes that deserve a closer look
By Robert J. Settich
Tree growth basics
Y
our project’s joinery may be As growth within a tree matures from
absolutely airtight. Every surface The trunk of a tree is analogous to a sapwood into heartwood, profound
may be sanded to perfection, and bundle of soda straws—a series of tubes changes occur at the cellular level. The
every angle may be spot-on accurate. that conduct water and minerals up and contents of previously living cells die, and
But after applying a finish, you’re disap- down the tree. Each growing season, the that space may be filled with water, resin,
pointed with the result. For example, you sap moves throughout the sapwood, the or other biochemical extractives that often
make a small wall cabinet of white ash living portion of the tree. In the vascular give heartwood its darker hue.
and lay down a coat of gloss finish. It cambium—a very thin layer between The basic tubular structure of sapwood
initially looks great, but then the sunlight and heartwood is the same. Depending
playing across its surface seems to mag- on the species, these tubes, or “pores”
nify hundreds of tiny craters and dozens may be more or less pronounced, which
of shallow furrows. What’s going on? can give rise to the finishing problems I
The answer lies in the tiny pores mentioned earlier.
Inner bark
and vessels that are part of the
Outer bark
architecture of the wood itself. Start at the end
I suggest a double-barreled The easiest way to see tree
approach to help you get the rings and wood pores is by
appearance you want. First, looking at a stump or the end
Heartwood
have a general knowledge Vascular cambium of a board, commonly called
Log cross-section
of how the wood assembled illustration end grain. In softwoods,
itself in the tree. That will you’ll see rings but not pores.
lead you to the second part: That’s because conifers rely
knowing how to overcome Sapwood on microscopic resin canals
prominent pores with an to transport nutrients, so these
Growth ring
appropriate finish. trees are considered nonporous.
By contrast, hardwoods have a
To is utae
Watertight white oak. Another
pliquidusam lit plumbing system that utilizes much
ipictae volorum
type of structure, called
faceperum tyloses, may larger vessels. Some of these cell types
completely pack cell cavities. In white are real jawbreakers to pronounce, but it
White oak
oak, the bubble-like tyloses block isn’t essential to distinguish them in this
porosity so effectively that the wood the inner bark and sapwood—the tree overview, so for convenience we’ll call any
becomes watertight. This enables the creates new cells, increasing the diameter open structure a pore.
construction of barrels to age whiskey. of the tree by one cell width at a time. Some hardwood pores are large enough
The first cells of a growing period are to see with your naked eye, but a small
called earlywood; subsequent cells form hand lens or loupe with 8x to 10x mag-
the latewood. Together, they create a nification lets you see them—plus even
growth ring. The outer group of rings are smaller features—with greater clarity.
sapwood, the inner, heartwood.
Illustrations: John Webster

Latewood
Earlywood Latewood
Latewood
Earlywood Earlywood
Red oak (ring-porous) Koa (diffuse-porous) Butternut (semi-diffuse-porous)

10x scale 10x scale 10x scale
Prior planning prevents

Three categories of make it very difficult to discern ring pat- poor results
pore patterns terns. Diffuse porosity is very common in
In each hardwood species, the pores tropical hardwoods that can grow almost High or low. High gloss finishes
arrange themselves into one of three continuously throughout the year. Tropi- emphasize prominent pores. If you
don’t want to invest time in filling
possible configurations. The first is called cal examples include bubinga, Brazilian pores, consider a low-luster oil finish.
ring-porous. That simply means that the rosewood, cocobolo, koa, bloodwood,
pores are concentrated along the newest bocote, and Gaboon ebony. Some domes- Proper preview. Scraps from your
growth region in the earlywood portion tic examples are hard maple, boxwood, project are the perfect testing ground
of the growth ring. This helps clearly and basswood. These species generally for new stains, dyes, or finishing
techniques. For a proper preview,
define the starting line for each ring. This do not require fillers. sand the scrap to the same level as
ring-porous pattern is typical for many— The third category of pore distribution your completed project.
but not all—hardwood species grown in patterns is halfway between the bookends
temperate climates with distinct seasonal of the first two classes. It is called either Pore over these
patterns, such as North America. A few semi-ring-porous or semi-diffuse-porous. wood facts
examples are red and white oak, black (A distinction similar to a glass half empty
Sap-moving stacks. Cells moving
walnut, white ash, shagbark hickory, or half full.) Whatever you call it, one dis-
sap within the trunk are stacked on
chestnut, and Osage orange. In general, tinguishing characteristic of this category top of each other, and fluid conducts
it is these ring-porous species that benefit is that the pore diameter decreases as they from the end of one cell into the next.
from using a filler as part of a glossy, march into the latewood portion of the The cell stack is collectively known
film-building finish. ring. Persimmon is one example, others as a vessel.
The second pattern is called diffuse- include Spanish cedar, holly, cherry, and
Shades of mystery. Heartwood
porous, meaning that pores of virtually butternut. I recommend experimenting formation processes are extremely
identical diameter appear throughout the with these species to see whether or not complex, particularly those related
entire growth ring. This arrangement can you think a filler improves them. ■ to lumber color, and are not fully
understood.
Empty cell. The walls of tree

cells are not living elements. Their
Face grain furrows. When contents may be living (protoplast),
Pore Filler a cut reveals a side section of water, or a wide variety of
Flip to page 41 to see the vessels, the voids can appear biochemicals, or the cell may simply
be empty.
author’s method for filling pores. as coarse furrows, as seen in
this illustration of ring-porous Busy grain. “Grain” may be the
red oak. most hardworking word related to
wood. One author lists 50 different
ways that the term is used to
describe timber.

Great Gear
EDITOR’S
CHOICE
Valuable and
reusable sandpaper
Diablo Sandpapers
In terms of material removal and eliminating scratch
patterns as you move through the grits, I’ve found Diablo
SandNet to have a slight edge over other mesh-style
sandpapers. It’s ceramic make-up cuts fast, and the nylon
coating reduces pitch buildup. In the box, Diablo includes
a connection pad that fits most sanders. Between this Connection pad
pad and the sheets’ hook and loop design, it never loses
grip. But where Diablo stands above is that it maintains
efficiency for much longer. Plus, when a SandNet sheet
clogs, simply pull it from your sander and shake off the
dust or hit it with a burst of air from your compressor,
reapply, and get back to work with the same sheet. If
it gets really jammed up, run the sheet under water to
clean it up. Sanding is notoriously boring, but it can be PRICE 50-pack for $20, available at The Home Depot
a little less tedious and costly with Diablo SandNet. UTILITY
—Chad McClung INNOVATION
56 Prices subject to change without notice. Photos: Chad McClung

Great Gear
No-math accuracy
General 147 Digital Caliper
One of my basic woodworking rules is that I can’t make a
measuring mistake if I don’t measure. I’m a cut-to-fit guy. But
when I do need to measure something, I want a fast, easy-to-
read, and accurate result. That’s when I reach for my stainless
steel General 147 digital caliper with 6-inch capacity. The large
LCD readout displays your choice of three modes: fractional
inches, digital inches, and millimeters. Select the one you want
by toggling the mode button at left. Rated accuracy is plus
or minus 0.001" or 0.02 mm. The center button is the on/off
switch, but the caliper also has automatic shut-off to preserve
its battery. The zero button at right allows you to reset at any
point along the beam to measure the difference between two
points—no math required. In addition to inside and outside
dimensions, the tool also measures depth. A fitted foam-lined
plastic case houses the tool when not in use and stores a spare
battery as well as a tiny screwdriver to access the compartment. PRICE $31.99, acehardware.com, #2133429
—Robert J. Settich UTILITY
INNOVATION
58 Prices subject to change without notice. Photo: Robert J. Settich

Buyer's Guide Ad Index
Tool Reviews (p. 12)
ADVERTISER PAGE
1. PantoRouter All-In Machine Package ...................... pantorouter.com, $2,185.00
2. Oneida Super Dust Deputy Deluxe Cyclone .............................#184393, $269.99
Amana - amanatool.com........................................................................................................................7
3. Festool CTC SYS Cordless Extractor ...................................... festool.com, $399.00
4. Jess-Em Pow-R-Tek SR ..................................................................... jessem.com, $499.99
The American Woodshop - wbgu.org/americanwoodshop ...................................19
Louvered Interior Shutters (p. 22)
1. Freud Traditional Beading Bit, 1⁄8" R, 1⁄4"SH ....................................... #828782, $38.97 Bosch - boschtools.com........................................................................................................................ 5
2. Shutter Moulding Router Bit ................. eagleamerica.com, #175-0735, $64.95
3. Shutter Tension Pin ...........................................................................shuttermedic.com, $0.16 Carter - carterproducts.com ...........................................................................................................64
4. Nylon Louver Pin .................................................................................. shuttermedic.com, $0.12
5. Wood Screws, Phillips Round Head, Zinc Plated,
Connecticut Valley School of WW - schoolofwoodworking.com.......................59
#5 x 1", 100 pc ..............................................................................boltdepot.com, #11589, $9.53
6. Screw eyes, Zinc Plated,
E-Z LOK - ezlok.com ..............................................................................................................................16
3⁄16" I.D., 100 pc ......................................................................boltdepot.com, #15484, $8.49
Dog Feeder (p. 28) Freud - woodcraft.com/Freud .....................................................................................................IFC

1. Wonder Compression Bit, 1⁄8" ..............................................bigwoodstudio.net, $12.00
2. Vention Small Steel Dog Bowls, 2 pc ............................................ amazon.com, $17.49 Howard - howardproducts.com....................................................................................................59
Stickley Music Cabinet (p. 31)

JessEm - jessem.com ............................................................................................................................. 9
1. Freud Spiral Upcut Router Bit, 1⁄2" D, 2" CL, 1⁄2" SH ....................... #838515, $88.97
2. Whiteside Flush Trim Upcut Spiral Router Bit,
1
⁄4" D, 1" CL, 1⁄4" SH ..................................................................................................... #127465, $52.99 Kutzall - kutzall.com ....................................................................................................................... 20, 42
3. Whiteside Flush Trim Spiral Combo,
7
⁄8" D, 1 1⁄8" CL, 1⁄2" SH............................................................................................ #154274, $229.99 Laguna - lagunatools.com.................................................................................................................. 15
4. Whiteside Rabbeting Bit Set, 1⁄2" SH ....................................................... #143223, $81.99
5. General Finishes Oil-Based Wood Stain, Lignomat - lignomat.com .................................................................................................................... 13
Candlelight, qt ........................................................................................................ #828275, $38.99
6. WoodRiver 13-Hole 32mm Spacing Shelf Pin Drilling Jig....... #150720, $29.99
Mercury Adhesives - mercuryadhesives.com.................................................................... 13
7. WoodRiver 1⁄4" Self-Centering Drill Bit .................................................. #150722, $19.99
8. Vertex Brass Ball Catch, 7⁄16" ........................................................................... #158218, $10.99
Milescraft - milescraft.com................................................................................................................63
9. Solid Brass 2 1⁄2" Non-Mortise Ball-Tip Cabinet Hinges, Oil-Rubbed Bronze
Finish (Pair) .............................................................houseofantiquehardware.com, $37.99
10. Stickley Style Arts & Crafts Vertical Pull Next Wave - nextwaveautomation.com .................................................................................. 14
with“V” Shape Ring..........................................houseofantiquehardware.com , $16.79
11. Glass Panels (leaded or plain) ......................... see your local custom glass dealer Oneida - oneida-air.com ..............................................................................................................19, 58
Pore Filling (p. 43) PS Wood - pswood.com.....................................................................................................................59

1. Whiting Powder, 1 cup ...........................................................atlaspreservation.com, $5.95
2. Watco Natural Danish Oil, 1 qt. .....................................................................#159437, $26.99
Rikon - rikontools.com ...............................................................................................................................1
3. Rottenstone ............................................... naturalpigments.com, #510-13ROT, $16.00
4. Alumilite PolyColor Resin Glitter, Silver, 15g .....................................#174906, $15.99
5. Alumilite PolyColor Resin Powder, Rustoleum - rustoleum.com.............................................................................................................56
Gold Metallic Dust, 15g .......................................................................................#174875, $15.99
6. Alumilite PolyColor Resin Powder, Satellite City - caglue.com .................................................................................................................59
Diamond Dust Metallic, 15g ........................................................................... #174899, $15.99
Robert Sorby - robert-sorby.co.uk ................................................................................................ 6
Turning Accessory Cart (p. 48)
1. Torino Wire Pull, 3 ⁄2" ................................................................................................ #855717, $2.49
1
System Three - systemthree.com ................................................................................................ 21

2. Highpoint 20" Full Extension Side Mount Drawer Slide.........#160244, $18.99
3. WoodRiver 4" Swiveling Double Locking Caster ....................... #141050, $23.99
Titebond - titebond.com ...............................................................................................................OBC
Great Gear (p. 56)
1. Diablo SandNet .....................................................................................homedepot.com, $19.97 Thomas Flinn & Co. - flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk .....................................................................19
2. General 147 Digital Caliper ..........................acehardware.com, #2133429, $31.99
Whiteside Machine - whitesiderouterbits.com............................................................... IBC
Expert Answers (p.62)
Following available from sciencecompany.com
1. Cupric nitrate, 100g ........................................................................................#NC-0303, $14.95 Woodcraft Franchise - woodcraftfranchise.com............................................................. 57
2. Ferric nitrate, 100g ...................................................................................................#NC-11220, $13.95
3. Potash, Sulfurated, 500g..................................................................................#NC-0729, $46.95 Woodcraft Magazine - woodcraftmagazine.com ..........................................8, 11, 17, 59
Items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com, or by calling
(800) 225-1153, unless otherwise noted. Prices subject to change without notice. Woodcraft Supply - woodcraft.com ................................................................................... 47, 61
60
Expert Answers
A custom patina
“I often use brass hinges, screws, and pulls
in my work. I know I can buy products
with various antique effects, but how can
I customize my own colors and finishes on
brass hardware?”
Factory finish Green patina
Regan Lumley
Henderson, NV
Propane
Q
Three common formulas torch
These three basic mixes will get you
started customizing brass hardware,
but you can also experiment to see
Fire-safe brick
their effects on other metals. Some
& patinas work better on copper alloys,
such as brass and bronze, while others
A
work better on steel or nickel.
Green patina
1 tsp cupric nitrate Patina solutions
1 pint distilled water
hot application Painting patina. Handle heated hardware with pliers or tongs and
apply patina with a natural bristle brush. Drive screws into scrap
Brown patina wood to secure them before patinating their heads to match the
1
⁄2 tsp ferric nitrate hardware.
1 pint distilled water
hot or cold application
Black patina
O ne of the more fun and foolproof methods of adding
color to metal is through the process of patination or
chemically oxidizing a metallic surface to change its color.
Sophie Glenn 1 tsp sulfurated potash (liver of sulfur) Patinas develop naturally over time when metal is exposed
is a metal worker, 1 pint distilled water to the elements, as in the case of green copper roofs or
woodworker, hot or cold application dark brown bronze statues. But by applying a few different
furniture designer, chemicals, we can expedite this process and control the
and sculptor Crystalline solids can be purchased color. Some commercially available patina solutions come
based in Reading, through sciencecompany.com (See premixed so that achieving a particular color is as easy as
Pennsylvania. Buyer's Guide p. 60). following the directions on the bottle. And there are meth-
ods of using common household chemicals that work well.
But neither allow much customization of the end result.
I prefer mixing my own patinas from crystalline solids
that are easily diluted in water and can be mixed together to
achieve a multitude of different colors. I’ve included a few
staple recipes here, but if you want to experiment further,
62 Photos: Sarah Marriage

Brown patina Black patina
check sciencecompany.com for additional recipes

and safety info.
To start, ensure that the surface of the hardware
is clean, which includes removing any clear coating
applied by the manufacturer. I recommend soaking the
hardware in acetone and then scrubbing the lacquer
off with a brass wire brush. Patina recipes typically
indicate whether they are a hot or cold application,
meaning that the surface of the hardware needs to
be either heated or left at room temperature before
application. For hot applications, warm the hardware
with a propane torch or heat gun on a fire-safe brick, or
simply leave it in the sun for a few hours on a hot day.
Once the hardware is prepped, it’s time to apply.
Working in a well-ventilated area and wearing vinyl or
nitrile gloves, mix your desired patina solution and use a
bristle brush to paint a thin layer onto the hardware. Let
it dry before applying another coat. Repeat this process
until the desired color is achieved. If you don’t like the
results, you can sand it off and try a different solution.
Keep experimenting until you reach a patina you prefer.
To finish, buff the surface with a white scotch-brite pad
and seal your custom creation with lacquer or wax. ■
Have a tough woodworking question?
We’ll do our best to find the expert and provide the answer.
󰇰
EMAIL QUESTIONS TO
[email protected] and put
“Expert Answers” in the subject line.

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Woodcraft Magazine - Issue 111 FebruaryMarch 2023

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Projects, Techniques, and Products

31 Feb/Mar 2023 | Issue 111

31 Stickley Music Cabinet

48 Turning Accessory Cart

2 Cover photo: Willie Sandry

10 Reader Showcase SOPHIE GLENN is a metal worker, woodworker,

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

Safety First! Working wood can be

Way off base

Fine and fair

Woodcraft Magazine staff replies:

Articulated arm Guide bearing Ratcheting ONEIDA AIR SYSTEMS

12 Prices subject to change without notice.

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 13

Segmented turning sled

the base. To cut the segments, start with a strip

16 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

THREADED INSERTS FOR WOOD

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 17

Share a slick tip.

22 Photos: Derek Richmond; Illustrations: Greg Maxson

CTF = Cut to fit

Making a panel plan

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Backer board Marked fence

Initial pin location

Vertical Beveled spacer taped

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 25

Clamp a stile in a bench vise, then

Scan for onlineEXTRAs

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 27

28 Photos: Ken Burton; Illustrations: Dan Thornton

Side Detail Top Detail

7" 5" 5 5⁄8"

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 29

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31

Fixed shelves top and bottom connect the sides

and tenon frame that holds three shiplapped

Install hardware & shelves

Scan for onlineEXTRAs

32 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

*Cut to fit Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

Rout stopped dadoes. Clamp a straightedge to 1

34 Photos: Willie Sandry

Table saw tenons. After establishing the outside

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 35

Side Pattern Side Detail

Template rout the side. After sawing to

Glue-up strategy. After gluing in the

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 37

Mortise the door frame. After rabbeting

Mortise for mullion

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 39

Assemble back frame. After making the frame

Cut-to-fit A note on finishing

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 41

Pockmarked with pores. Ring-porous

Feb/Mar 2023 | woodcraftmagazine.com 43