Palazzi On Piazza: Museum

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visible remains of the Foro di Cesare (Cae- ahead, and Palazzo dei Conservatori (Map
sar’s Forum; Map p68). p68) on the right. Together, Palazzo Nuovo
and Palazzo dei Conservatori house the Cap-
Mercati di Traiano Museo ¨ itoline Museums, while Palazzo Senatorio is
dei Fori Imperiali MUSEUM
home to Rome’s municipal government.
(Map p68; % 06 06 08; www.mercatiditraiano.it; Via In the centre, the bronze equestrian
IV Novembre 94; adult/reduced €9.50/7.50; h 9am- statue of Marcus Aurelius (Map p68) is a
7pm Tue-Sun, last admission 6pm; g Via IV Novem-

Rome & L a zio S


copy. The original, which dates from the 2nd
bre) This striking museum brings to life century AD, is in the Capitoline Museums.
the Mercati di Traiano (Map p68), emperor
Trajan’s great 2nd-century market complex, oCapitoline Museums MUSEUM
while also providing a fascinating introduc- (Musei Capitolini; Map p68; % 06 06 08; www.mu-
tion to the Imperial Forums with detailed seicapitolini.org; Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/
explanatory panels and a smattering of ar- reduced €9.50/7.50; h 9am-8pm Tue-Sun, last

R IioG
chaeological artefacts. admission 7pm; g Piazza Venezia) The world’s

gmH
From the main hallway, a lift whisks you oldest national museums, the Capitoline

hts
eT S
up to the Torre delle Milizie (Militia Tower; Museums occupy two palazzi on Piazza
Map p68), a 13th-century red-brick tower, del Campidoglio. Their origins date to 1471,
and the upper levels of the Mercati. These when Pope Sixtus IV donated a number of
markets, housed in a three-storey semi- bronze statues to the city, forming the nu-
circular construction, hosted hundreds of cleus of what is now one of Italy’s finest col-
traders selling everything from oil and veg- lections of classical art.
etables to flowers, silks and spices. The entrance is in Palazzo dei Conserv-
atori, where you’ll find the original core
Piazza del Campidoglio PIAZZA
of the sculpture collection on the 1st floor
(Map p68; g Piazza Venezia) Designed by
and the museum’s picture gallery on the
Michelangelo in 1538, this elegant piazza
2nd floor. Before you start on the sculpture
sits atop the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill),
collection proper, take a moment to admire
one of the seven hills on which Rome was
the marble body parts littered around the
founded. In ancient times, it was home to
courtyard. The mammoth head, hand and
Rome’s two most important temples: one
feet all belonged to a 12m-high statue of
dedicated to Jupiter Capitolinus, and one
Constantine that once stood in the Basilica
to the goddess Juno Moneta (which housed
di Massenzio in the Roman Forum.
Rome’s mint).
Of the sculpture on the 1st floor, the Etrus-
You can reach the piazza from the Roman
can Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf) is
Forum, but the most dramatic approach is
the most famous piece. Standing in the Sala
via the Cordonata (Map p68), the graceful
della Lupa, this 5th-century-BC bronze wolf
staircase that leads up from Piazza d’Ara
stands over her suckling wards Romulus and
Coeli. At the top, it is bordered by three
Remus, who were added to the composition
palazzi: Palazzo Nuovo (Map p68) to the
in 1471. Other crowd-pleasers include the
left, Palazzo Senatorio (Map p68) straight
Spinario, a delicate 1st-century-BC bronze of

ROME’S LESSER-KNOWN HITS


A tour guide since 2005, Silvia Prosperi knows Rome’s great sights inside out. Here she
advises on some of the city’s lesser-known hits.

Favourite Sights
I love too many sights. The Colonna di Traiano (p74) is a masterpiece that is sometimes
neglected. The archaeological museum at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (p93) is another
underrated attraction. I also love the atmosphere of the Etruscan museum at Villa Giulia
(p117) and the view from the terrace of Castel Sant’Angelo (p112).

Most Underrated Sights


The Mercati di Traiano (p75) are really interesting, as is Bramante’s Tempietto (p104) on
the Gianicolo.

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