91" EXTRA 300EXP ARF

Assembly Manual

Copyright 2012 Extreme Flight RC

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Please take a few moments to read this instruction manual before beginning assembly. We have outlined
a fast, clear and easy method to assemble this aircraft and familiarizing yourself with this process will aid
in a quick, easy build.

Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly

of your aircraft!
THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result from the
misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the consumer with a very high quality model
aircraft component kit, from which you, the consumer, will assemble a flying model. It is beyond our
control to monitor the finished aircraft you produce. Extreme Flight RC will in no way accept or assume
responsibility or liability for damages resulting from the use of this user assembled product. This aircraft
should be flown in accordance to the AMA safety code. It is highly recommended that you join the
Academy of Model Aeronautics in order to be properly insured, and to operate your model at AMA
sanctioned flying fields only. If you are not willing to accept ALL liability for the use of this product,
please return it to the place of purchase immediately.

Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a
period of 30 DAYS from the date of purchase. All warranty claims must be accompanied by the original
dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the original purchaser of the aircraft kit only.
Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. We have put these aircraft through
the most grueling flight tests imaginable and have not experienced any control surface flutter. Proper
servo selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential. Inadequate servos or improper linkage set up
may result in flutter and possibly the complete destruction of your aircraft. If you are not experienced in
this type of linkage set-up or have questions regarding servo choices, please contact us at
[email protected] or 770-887-1794. It is your responsibility to ensure the airworthiness of your
model.

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A few tips to ensure success
1. We are very pleased with the level of craftsmanship displayed by the builders in our factory. Through
hundreds of grueling test flights containing maneuvers that no aircraft should be subjected to, our
prototypes have remained rigid and completely airworthy. Having said that, it is impossible for us to
inspect every glue joint in the aircraft. Take a few minutes and apply some medium CA to high stress
areas such as the aileron servo mounting trays , landing gear mount, anti rotation pins, wing and stab
root ribs, etc.
2. Having survived the journey half way around the world while experiencing several climate changes, it
is not uncommon for a few wrinkles to develop in the covering. Fear not! These are not manufacturing
defects, and are easily removed with a little bit of heat. Use a sealing iron to go over all seams, stripes
and sharp points in the covering scheme. You may want to apply a drop of clear fingernail polish at
the tip of all sharp points to prevent them from lifting. To remove wrinkles use a 100% cotton tee-
shirt or microfiber cloth and your heat gun and heat the covering while gently rubbing the covering
onto the wood with the t-shirt or cloth. Be careful not to use too much heat as the covering may shrink
too much and begin to lift at the edges. Take your time, and a beautiful, paint like finish is attainable.
3. By the time your aircraft arrives at your door step it will have been handled by a lot of people.
Occasionally there are small dings or imperfections on some of the surfaces. An effective method to
restore these imperfections to original condition is to use a very fine tipped hypodermic needle to
inject a drop of water under the covering material and into the ding in the wood. Apply heat to the
area with a sealing iron and the imperfection will disappear. Deeper marks may require that this
process be repeated a couple of times to achieve the desired result, but you will be surprised at how
well this technique works.
4. DO NOT SKIMP ON SERVOS! Your aircraft is equipped with very large control surfaces that deflect
well over 45 degrees. A lot of servo power is required to prevent flutter and to maintain the required
deflection for maneuvers. We absolutely recommend the use of METAL GEARED servos with a
minimum of 350 oz. inches of torque for the ailerons and elevator and at least 450 oz. inches of torque
for the rudder.
5. Use a high quality epoxy for installing the composite control horns and hinges. We highly recommend
the use of Pacer Z-Poxy 30 minute formula. We have used this glue for many years with zero failures.
6. You may want to add a bead of silicone glue (Pacer Zap-A-DAP-A-GOO, etc.) or RC-56 Canopy glue
to the intersection of the canopy/hatch and its wood frame for additional strength and resistance to
vibration. DO NOT USE CA here as it will fog the canopy.
7. Your aircraft is built using very modern construction techniques and is very light weight for its size.
As with any high performance machine, regular inspection and maintenance is a must. While
disassembling your aircraft after a flying session, pay close attention and inspect glue joints, linkages
and loose covering to be sure the airframe is sound. A few minutes spent doing this will help maintain
airframe longevity.
8. Be sure to put a drop of blue Loctite thread locker on every bolt on this aircraft! Failure to do so may
cost you your aircraft! This includes servo screws!
9. The basic assembly process of the Extra is very similar to that of our previously released 50cc and
100cc aircraft. Some of the photos in this manual may be taken from a previous aircraft release if we
determined that the assembly step was illustrated more clearly in these photos.

If repairs become necessary the Ultracote colors used are as follows:

Red/White/Black color scheme: True Red- # HANU866, White- # HANU870, Black- # HANU874

Blue/White/Red color scheme: Midnight Blue- # HANU885, White- # HANU870, True Red- #HANU866

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Congratulations on your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 91" Extra 300EXP ARF! Designed
specifically to handle the high G loads of Xtreme Aerobatics (XA), Freestyle routines, aggressive 3D
maneuvers and precision aerobatics, the Extra was born of the desire to meet the demands of today's top
ultra-aggressive pilots. Thoroughly flight tested by the likes of Donatas Pauzuolis, RJ Gritter, Daniel
Holman, Devin McGrath, Michael Holman and Chris Hinson, the Extra has proven itself up to the
challenge of satisfying the most demanding of pilots.
Featuring 2 carbon fiber square tube wing spars, 2 additional hardwood spars in the forward D-tube
wing structure and 3/4 span shear webs, the Extra's wing remains rigid and true during high G pushes
and pulls and makes accurate roll and snap stops a breeze. The fuselage is also constructed with carbon
fiber square tube longerons and hardwood diagonal bracing which makes it very strong and resistant to
twisting loads. Large control surfaces provide the ultimate in pitch, yaw and roll authority, while G10
control horns coupled with ball links and titanium turnbuckle pushrods provide accurate slop-free
control surface actuation. The 91" Extra 300EXP is truly a state-of-the-art aerobatic machine!

Please refer to the ARF Assembly Resources page on our

website under the Multimedia drop down menu for
informative videos to aid in the assembly and set-up of your
aircraft.

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 Elevator assembly
1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer/elevator assemblies as well as the composite control horns and base
plates from the elevator hardware package. Use a sharp #11 blade to make a cut in the covering over the
2 slots for the elevator control horns on the bottom of the elevator surface. Double check to make sure
you are cutting into the bottom of the elevator.

2. Insert the 2 control horns into the base plate and trial fit the horns into their slots and make sure they
seat properly against the base plate and elevator surface. Trace around the base plate with a fine tipped
felt marker.

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 3. Remove the horn assembly and use your #11 blade to remove the covering from inside the ink line you
traced around the control horn base. Wipe away the ink line with a paper towel soaked in denatured
alcohol. Scuff the portion of the horns that will be inserted into the elevator with sandpaper. Apply 30
minute epoxy to the slots and thoroughly coat the horns and base plate bottom. Reinsert the assembly
into the elevator and wipe away any excess epoxy with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Place a 3mm
bolt through the horns to help insure proper alignment and set aside to dry. Repeat for the other
elevator half.

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4. In this step I will outline the procedure we use to install the hinges. There are several ways to do this
and several adhesives you can use. We will describe the way we do it, as this method has proven itself
over many years of model building. If you are new to this type of hinging process then I recommend that
you install a single hinge first just to acquaint yourself with this method.
Before starting the process get a few items together that will aid you as you proceed. You will need the
following items: 30 minute epoxy (we recommend Pacer Z-Poxy), a scrap piece of pushrod or 1/8” dowel,
paper towels and denatured alcohol. Pull the stab/elevator apart and remove the hinges. You will need to
cut 2 hinges just beyond the second knuckle to clear the fiberglass tube socket in the stabilizer. Insert the
carbon fiber wing tube into the socket while testing for proper hinge length to avoid damaging the
fiberglass sleeve. Mix a generous batch of 30 minute epoxy. Use the pushrod or dowel to thoroughly coat
and fill the hinge hole with epoxy, then coat the hinge with epoxy. Push the hinge into its hole until the
joint is about a ¼” from its final position and use a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy that has been
forced from the hole. Push the hinge the rest of the way in and make sure the hinge pin is centered in the
hinge line. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper towel to remove all excess epoxy, especially on the
hinge pin. When you are satisfied with the result set the surface aside to dry. Position the drying piece so
that any excess epoxy will pool around the rear of the hinge. When you are comfortable with this process
you should be able to do one side of a surface per batch of epoxy. Glue all hinges into the stabilizer first.
After the glue has set trial fit the elevator to the stab and adjust if necessary. There should be as little gap
as possible between the stab and elevator. When satisfied with the fit remove the elevator and repeat the
gluing process outlined above. Be sure to wipe away all excess epoxy! Set aside to dry. Repeat this process
for the other stab/elevator half. Please see the following series of pictures that will aid in visualizing this
process.

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5. After the hinges have dried thoroughly, pull on them to make sure they are properly installed. The
hinges will probably feel a little stiff as it is almost impossible to get all of the glue out of the knuckle
joint. Spray each hinge knuckle with DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant or a similar plastic-safe lubricant.
Move the surface back and forth a few times and you will feel it loosen up. Wipe away any remaining
lubricant from the surface with an alcohol soaked paper towel and seal the bottom of the hinge gap with a
strip of Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Be sure to fully deflect the control surface when applying the tape or
Ultracote to allow full deflection once the gap is sealed. Repeat this process for the other stab/elevator
assembly.
6. Use your hobby knife to remove the covering from the slot in the bottom of the stab for the elevator
servo horn. You may want to brush a coat of alcohol thinned epoxy along the edges of the opening to
prevent gas/oil from seeping under the covering.

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7. Install the elevator servo inside the stab using the manufacturer supplied mounting hardware with the
output shaft toward the front of the stab. It will be easier to electronically center the servo and confirm
proper servo arm installation before screwing the servo into position, although you will still need to
remove the arm to install the servo. We recommend the SWB 2 inch servo arm.

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8. Locate 2 ball links and a titanium turnbuckle pushrod. Thread the ball links onto the pushrod and
install using the supplied 3mm bolts, nuts and washers as shown in the picture.

9. Before you set aside the stabs take a moment with your covering iron and go over all of the seams with
a medium heat setting, paying special attention to the ends of thin trim stripes. Clean the 2 elevator/stab
assemblies with Windex and set them aside.

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Wing Assembly
10. Remove the aileron from the wing panel. Locate the 2 slots for the control horns and remove the
covering from the slots with a sharp #11 blade. Follow the same procedure as outlined previously for the
elevator to install the control horns into the control surface and hinge the wing. Repeat this procedure for
the other wing.

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(Aileron horn has been painted black in the following picture)

11. Locate the aileron servo mount and remove the covering from this area. Use a sealing iron to seal the
edges of the covering to the sides of the servo opening. Take a few minutes to apply some CA to the joints
of the servo mount and the ribs. This is very important as this area is under constant stress during flight.

12. Attach a 12 inch servo extension to the servo and secure with thread or heat shrink tubing. Use the
manufacturer supplied mounting hardware and install the servo with the output shaft toward the trailing
edge of the wing. Electronically center your servo. Aileron servo arm length should be 1.75” (2 inch arm
pictured using the hole at 1.75"). We use and recommend the SWB double lock aluminum arms. Thread
2 ball links onto each titanium turnbuckle pushrod. Secure the pushrod to the control horns and servo
arm as shown in the picture using the supplied 3mm bolts and nylon insert locknuts. As always, use blue
Loctite on ALL bolts!

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13. Before beginning the next assembly process, take a few minutes with your sealing iron on a medium
heat setting and go over all seams, paying special attention to thin trim stripes and the seam at the
leading edge of the wing. If there are wrinkles in the covering on the leading edge sheeting use a heat gun
with a 100% cotton t-shirt to remove them and prevent digging into the wood with an iron. Use caution
and avoid excessive heat as you may cause the Ultracote to shrink too much and lift at the seams. Also
take the time to seal the hinge gaps with Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Clean the wings with Windex and
put them away.

Rudder horn installation

14. Locate the rudder, the rudder control horns and the 2 slotted base plates. Use a sharp #11 blade to
remove the covering from the pre-cut slots in the rudder. Trial fit the 2 rudder horns through the slots in
the base plate and into the slots in the rudder. Trace around the base plate with a fine tip felt marker.
Remove the control horns and cut away the covering from the area where the base plate will mount as
done previously with the aileron and elevator.
Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and use a small blade to fill the 2 slots with epoxy. Use plenty of epoxy and
be sure to completely fill the two slots. Use an epoxy brush to completely cover the areas on the rudder
horns and base plate that will glue into the rudder. Slide the rudder horns back into their proper position
and immediately wipe the excess epoxy from the horns. Repeat this process on the other side of the
rudder making sure the horns are mounted in the same position on each side of the rudder.

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Fuselage Assembly
15. We’ll begin by installing the landing gear. Locate the carbon fiber main landing gear,
4-4mm bolts, lock nuts and washers. Insert the gear into the slot on the bottom of the fuselage and center
it in the slot. Secure the landing gear with 4 4mm bolts, washers and nylon insert lock nuts by inserting
the bolts and washers into the pre-drilled holes in the aluminum gear mounts inside the fuselage with a
long T-handle wrench. Secure with the 4mm nylon insert lock nuts.

16. The landing gear fairings add a nice scale touch to the aircraft. If you wish to use them, slit the
supplied black neoprene tubing length wise with a sharp hobby knife. Push the tubing onto the rim of
the fairing and secure with CA. Slide the fairing onto the gear and up against the fuselage. Secure the
fairing to the gear with "Goop" silicon glue.

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17. Locate the 2 axles, 2 locking nuts, 2 wheels, 4 wheel collars and 2 wheel pants from the hardware
package. Place the wheel onto the axle and secure with 2 wheel collars. Place the threaded portion of the
axle through the hole in the landing gear, place a washer onto the axle and secure the axle with a locking
nut.

18. There is a pre-cut slot in the wheel pant to allow it to fit over the axle. You may need to open this slot
with a rotary tool to allow it to slide into position over the axle. When satisfied with the position of the
wheel pants, drill 2 holes through the plywood plate that is glued inside the pant at the location of the
holes in the landing gear. Secure the pant in position with the provided wood screws. Repeat this process
for the remaining wheel pant.

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19. Next let’s install the rudder onto the fuselage. As you did with the ailerons and elevators, glue the
hinges into the rudder first with epoxy and allow to cure. Use a pushrod to apply epoxy to the holes in
the rudder post and push the rudder into position and wipe away any excess epoxy with a paper towel
and denatured alcohol.

20. Assemble the tailwheel assembly as shown. For best results file a flat spot at the location that each
set screw will seat and use a drop of blue Loctite on each set screw. Be sure to mount the threaded steel
fitting on the top of the carbon fiber bracket and secure with the nylon insert lock nut on the bottom to
allow proper clearance between the gear and the rudder bottom.

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21. Drill a hole in the bottom of the rudder to fit the shank of the included white 2mm ball link 3.5 inches
from the rudder hinge line.

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22. Glue the ball link into the bottom of the rudder using epoxy. Allow a small amount of epoxy to pool
around the ball link shank for best results.

23. Slide the tiller arm into the ball link and secure the tailwheel assembly to the rear bottom of the
fuselage with the supplied 3mm bolts inserted through the carbon tailwheel assembly and into the pre-
installed blind nuts in the bottom of the fuselage.

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24. Next let’s install the engine. We have made this process very easy. The centering marks have been
scribed into the front of the firewall with a laser. Download the manufacturer's mounting template and
tape it to the front of the engine box, making sure to align the horizontal and vertical lines on the
template with the laser scribed lines on the firewall. Be sure to align the template with the vertical line to
the right of the center line to compensate for the right thrust offset.

25. The distance from the front face of the motor box to the motor drive washer is 6.32 inches (this is the
length of the DA-60 with a 1 inch mount (We've had great success with the Blazing Star mounts as well as
the plywood spacers provided by DA). Drill holes at the locations provided on the template and install
the engine using the recommended mounting bolts. You may find it necessary to remove some of the
wood around the laser cut hole in the center of the firewall to accommodate the DA-60 carburetor. This
is easily accomplished with a rotary tool and drum sanding fitting.

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26. If you plan to use a tuned pipe remove the covering from the bottom of the pipe tunnel on the
underside of the fuselage. Shown in the photo is a KS-1060 mounted using a KS Comfort Mount. This
makes for a very simple pipe installation. For the DA-60 you will need a 25mm drop wrap around
header. Included in your kit is a cover for the pipe tunnel. Use a sharp hobby knife or soldering iron to
remove the covering from the vent holes and install using wood screws.

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27. Mount your rudder servo in the servo tray under the canopy using the manufacturer supplied
mounting hardware. For proper geometry use the SWB 4” offset rudder arm or a similar unit.

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28. Now is the time to install the pull-pull rudder cables. Look at the rear of the fuselage just below the
horizontal stabilizer location and you will find the location of the pull-pull cable exit slots. Use a sharp
hobby knife to pierce the covering in this location on each side of the fuselage.

29. Assemble one end of the linkage by inserting the pull-pull cable into one of the aluminum crimp
tubes, through the hole in the brass pull-pull fitting and back through the aluminum crimp tube. Loop
the cable back through the crimp tube a second time and crimp with side cutters.

30. Insert the bare end of the cable into the slot in the rear of the fuselage and feed it forward into the
canopy area and make up the same type of linkage as you did previously. Electronically center your
servo. Secure the linkage at both ends with a 3mm bolt and nylon insert lock nut. Repeat for the other
side. Pull-pull cables should be crossed for this installation on the Extra.

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31. Slide both stab/elevator assemblies onto the carbon fiber mounting tube and secure with 2 3mm bolts
inserted through a washer and the mounting tabs and into the corresponding blind nuts already installed
in the fuselage. Be sure to use a drop of blue Loctite on all bolts!!!

32. There is a location pre-cut for a throttle servo in the bottom of the motor box. This will work for
some engines but others may require a different mounting location. Included in your kit is a laser cut
servo mount that you can assemble and use to mount your throttle servo where it will work best. You
will need to fabricate your own throttle linkage to accommodate your choice of engine. I used a short
length of 2-56 threaded rod inside a piece of carbon fiber tube with 2-56 ball links on each end.

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33. Assemble and install your choice of gas tank in front of the wing tube socket using nylon cable ties
through the mounting tabs and around the tank. I suggest using a piece of foam under the tank. We
have had great success using the pre-assembled 4Titude Tanks.

34. Once you are satisfied with your throttle linkage, tank and plumbing and ignition installation it is
time to mount the cowl. First glue the engine box cover into place with epoxy. Next cut the cowl to clear
the mufflers and make an air exit. Take a minute to add some thick CA or Epoxy to the intersection of
the cowl and plywood cowl ring. Slide the cowl into position and secure with the 2-3mm bolts inserted
into washers, through the holes in the top of F1 and into the blind nuts installed in the cowl ring. Be sure
to use blue Loctite on all bolts!!!

35. Install your choice of prop and spinner (4" Ultimate style spinner recommended).

36. Install your switches (there are suggested switch mounting locations laser scribed in the fuselage
sides visible from the interior of the fuselage), batteries and receiver. Choose the locations to mount
your batteries to help achieve correct center of gravity. If using a tuned pipe you will need to mount the
batteries as far forward as possible.

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37. Included with your Extra are a set of Side Force Generators (SFGs) along with 2 clear spacers to be
installed between the SFGs and wing tip to prevent them from interfering with aileron movement. They
are to be installed using the supplied white thumb screws threaded through the holes in the SFG, through
the clear spacer and into the pre-installed blind nuts in the wing tip.

38. The wings are mated to the fuselage by sliding them onto the carbon fiber wing tube and retained
using a nylon wing bolt inserted from inside the fuselage and threaded into the pre-installed blind nut in
the wing root.
39. The canopy is attached to the fuselage using 2 bolts with knurled white nylon knobs per side. I highly
recommend using a rubber washer under the head of each of the bolts to prevent them from backing out.
DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON THESE BOLTS AS THEY WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE!!!
Check the bolts after each flight to make sure they are tight.

This completes the assembly of the 91" Extra 300. As a final step clean the entire aircraft with glass
cleaner, apply your choice of graphics, then apply a coat of spray-on wax and buff the finish to a high
gloss with a micro fiber cloth. My favorite product for this is Eagle One Wet Wax AS-U-DRY, available
in the automotive section of most Wal-Marts, K-marts, Sears, Targets, etc. People often ask me at trade
shows how I get the planes to look so shiny, this is my method.

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Set-up and trimming
Besides basic assembly, this is the most important part of preparing your airplane for flight. It can also
be the most time consuming, but once your plane is properly dialed in you will agree it was time well
spent.
One of the most practical ways to check the CG on an aircraft this size is to insert the carbon fiber wing
tube into its sleeve in the fuselage and tie a length of rope around the tube on each side of the fuselage,
forming a loop that you can pick the aircraft up with. Slide the wings into position, install the canopy
and pick up the plane with the rope. The Extra should balance in a horizontal position on the center of
the wing tube. Move your batteries and radio equipment to achieve this condition. This will give you a
safe starting place for the first flights.

One of the best ways to fine tune the CG for your aircraft is the 45 degree line test. Fly the aircraft in
front of you from left to right (or right to left if you prefer) at full throttle. Pull the aircraft into a 45
degree up line and establish this line. Roll the aircraft inverted, neutralize the elevator and pay close
attention to what the plane does. Ideally the plane will continue on this line for several hundred feet
before it starts to slowly level off. If the airplane immediately drops the nose and dives toward the ground
it is nose heavy. If it begins to climb inverted toward the gear it is tail heavy. There is no need to have the
Extra excessively tail heavy to perform 3D maneuvers.

Control surface throws

I highly recommend that you purchase a throw meter that measures in degrees. There are several units
available commercially. These units are a great aid in set-up and definitely beat the “that looks about
right” method. For any type of precision flying, surfaces that travel equal distances are a must. The
following control surface travels are what I use on my own Extra. These are a good starting point, but are
by no means the only way to set up the Extra. Start here and then adjust to fit your own preferences and
style of flying.

Elevator: 10-12 degrees low rate, 18-20% exponential

all you can get for high rate, 50-60% exponential

Aileron: 18-20 degrees low rate, 30-40% exponential

all you can get for high rate, 50-60% exponential

Rudder: 20 degrees low rate, 50% exponential

all you can get for high rate, 60-70% exponential.

Again, this is just a starting point. Adjust to your liking.

Thanks again for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC 91" Extra 300EXP
ARF. I hope you enjoy assembling and flying yours as much as I have mine.
See you at the flying field!
Chris Hinson
Extreme Flight RC

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