Test Bank for Discrete Mathematics

with Applications, 5th Edition Susanna

S. Epp
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7. (a) Write in words how to read the following out loud {n ∈ Z | n is a factor of 9}.
(b) Use the set-roster notation to indicate the elements in the set.
 8. (a) Is {5} ∈ {1, 3, 5}?
(b) Is {5} ∈ {1, 3, 5}?
(c) Is {5} ∈ {{1}, {3}, {5}}?
(d) Is {5} ∈ {{1}, {3}, {5}}?
9. Let A = {a, b, c} and B = {u, v}. Write a. A × B and b. B × A.
10. Let A = {3, 5, 7} and B = {15, 16, 17, 18}, and define a relation R from A to B as follows: For
all (x, y) ∈ A × B,
y
(x, y) ∈ R ∈ is an integer.
x

(a) Is 3 R 15? Is 3 R 16? Is (7, 17) ∈ R? Is (3, 18) ∈ R?

(b) Write R as a set of ordered pairs.
(c) Write the domain and co-domain of R.
(d) Draw an arrow diagram for R.
(e) Is R a function from A to B? Explain.

11. Define a relation R from R to R as follows: For all (x, y) ∈ R × R, (x, y) ∈ R if, and only if,
x = y 2 + 1.

(a) Is (2, 5) ∈ R? Is (5, 2) ∈ R? Is (−3) R 10? Is 10 R (−3)?

(b) Draw the graph of R in the Cartesian plane.
(c) Is R a function from R to R? Explain.

12. Let A = {1, 2, 3, 4} and B = {a, b, c}. Define a function G: A → B as follows:

G = {(1, b), (2, c), (3, b), (4, c)}.

(a) Find G(2).

(b) Draw an arrow diagram for G.

13. Define functions F and G from R to R by the following formulas:

F (x) = (x + 1)(x − 3) and G(x) = (x − 2)2 − 7.

Does F = G? Explain.

Chapter 2
1. Which of the following is a negation for “Jim is inside and Jan is at the pool.”

(a) Jim is inside or Jan is not at the pool.

(b) Jim is inside or Jan is at the pool.
(c) Jim is not inside or Jan is at the pool.
(d) Jim is not inside and Jan is not at the pool.
(e) Jim is not inside or Jan is not at the pool.

2
Discrete Mathematics with Applications, 5th Edition
by Susanna S. Epp

Answers for Test Bank Questions: Chapters 1-4

Please use caution when using these answers. Small differences in wording, notation, or choice of examples
or counterexamples may be acceptable.
Chapter 1
1. a. a remainder of 1 when it is divided by 4 and a remainder of 3 when it is divided by 7
b. an integer n; n is divided by 7 the remainder is 3

2. a. a positive real number; smaller than r

b. positive real number r; there is a positive real number s
Fill in the blanks to rewrite the following statement with variables:
3. There is an integer whose reciprocal is also an integer.
4. a. have three sides
b. has three sides
c. has three sides
d. is a triangle; has three sides
e. T has three sides

5. a. have additive inverses

b. an additive inverse
c. y is an additive inverse for x
6. a. less than or equal to every positive integer
b. positive integer m; less than or equal to every positive integer
c. less than or equal to n

7. (a) The set of all integers n such that n is a factor of 9.

Or: The set of all elements n in Z such that n is a factor of 9.
Or: The set of all elements n in the set of all integers such that n is a factor of 9.
(b) {1, 3, 9}

8. (a) No
(b) Yes
(c) Yes
(d) No

9. a. {(a, u), (a, v), (b, u), (b, v), (c, u), (c, v)}
b. {(u, a), (v, a), (u, b), (v, b), (u, c), (v, c)}
10. a. Yes; No; No; Yes
b. {(3, 15), (3, 18), (5, 15)}
c. domain is {3, 5, 7}; co-domain is {15, 16, 17, 18}.
d. Draw an arrow diagram for R.
e. No: R fails both conditions for being a function from A to B. (1) Elements 5 and 7 in A are not
related to any elements in B, and (2) there is an element in A, namely 3, that is related to two different
elements in B, namely 15 and 18.
 11. a. No; Yes; No; Yes
b. Draw the graph of R in the Cartesian plane.
c. No: R fails both conditions for being a function from R to R. (1) There are many elements in R
that are not related to any element in R. For instance, none of 0, 1/2, and −1 is related to any element
of R. (2) there are elements in R that are related to two different elements in R. For instance 2 is
related to both 1 and −1.
12. a. G(2) = c
b. Draw an arrow diagram for G.
13. F = G. Note that for every real number x,
G(x) = (x − 2)2 − 7 = x2 − 4x + 4 − 7 = x2 − 4x − 3,
whereas
F (x) = (x + 1)(x − 3) = x2 − 2x − 3.
Thus, for instance,

F (1) = (1 + 1)(1 − 3) = −4 whereas G(1) = (1 − 2)2 − 7 = −6.

Chapter 2
1. e
2. e
3. a. The variable S is not undeclared or the data are not out of order.
b. The variable S is not undeclared and the data are not out of order.
c. Al was with Bob on the first, and Al is not innocent.
d. −5 > x or x ≥ 2
4. The statement forms are not logically equivalent.
Truth table:
p q ∈ p p∈q ∈ p∈ q p∈q→ p p ∈ (∈ p ∈ q)
T T F T F T T
T F F T F T T
F T T T T F T
F F T F F T F
Explanation: The truth table shows that p ∈ q → p and p ∈ (∈ p ∈ q) have different truth values in
rows 3 and 4, i.e, when p is false. Therefore p ∈ q → p and p ∈ (∈ p ∈ q) are not logically equivalent.
5. Sample answers:
Two statement forms are logically equivalent if, and only if, they always have the same truth values.
Or: Two statement forms are logically equivalent if, and only if, no matter what statements are
substituted in a consistent way for their statement variables the resulting statements have the same
truth value.
6. Solution 1: The given statements are not logically equivalent. Let p be “Sam bought it at Crown
Books,” and q be “Sam didn’t pay full price.” Then the two statements have the following form:
p → q and p∈ ∈ q.
The truth tables for these statement forms are
p q ∈ q p→ q p∈ ∈ q
T T F T T
T F T F T
F T F T F
F F T T T

2
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holes through the deck into the deck beam and secure them with
three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws. Bore three holes along the gunwale on
each side and turn three 1¹⁄₄-in. No. 10 screws into the deck.

A Center Thwart

To strengthen and stiffen the hull a center thwart, or cross bar,

should be run across the canoe amidships. A piece of oak or ash, ³⁄₈
in. thick and tapering from 2 in. in the center to 1 in. at the ends,
should be screwed to the lower side of the gunwale. Although not
exactly essential, it is a good plan to run another thwart across the
canoe just back of the forward seat, and a rear thwart some 3 ft.
forward of the rear seat, or paddling bar. This will make the craft very
stiff when a heavy load is carried, and likewise prevent the lightly
constructed hull from sagging, or “hogging,” when stored for the
winter.

Fig. 13
The Manner of Shaping the Ends of the Canvas to Fit over the Canoe Ends

Applying the Canvas

The canvas is put on with marine glue, the black kind being the
best for this particular purpose. Before gluing the canvas, lay it
smoothly on the hull and trim so that it will fold nicely at the stems,
as shown in Fig. 13. Melt the glue in a can over a moderately hot fire
and spread it on one side of the canvas with a stiff brush. Of course,
the glue will be too thick to spread evenly, but be sure to apply it as
evenly as possible, and touch every bit of the canvas with a fairly
heavy coating of glue. Lay the glued canvas in place, and iron with a
moderately hot flatiron. This melts the glue, and the canvas will
adhere smoothly to the planking. Finish by tacking the edge of the
canvas along the edge of the gunwales, and fold the canvas as
smoothly as possible at the stem, and tack in place, running the line
of tacks exactly down the center line of the stem.

Fenders or Covering Strips

Fenders of ¹⁄₂-in. round molding may be tacked on to cover the

edge of the canvas, or a strip, 1 in. wide, may be sawed from the
same material as the planking and tacked to cover the edge by using
1¹⁄₄-in. brads every 2 or 3 in. along the edge.

Stem Bands and Outside Keel

The stem bands may be made from wood if desired and bent to
shape, but the brass oval stem or bang iron, ³⁄₈ in. wide, makes a
stronger and better finish. The wood stem band should be about ³⁄₈
in. square, and rounded on the outside. Put this on with 1¹⁄₄-in. brads
and fasten the brass band with ³⁄₄-in. screws.
The outside keel may or may not be used, according to
preference. It strengthens the canoe to a certain extent and keeps
the bottom from many a scratch while pulling out. The usual outside
keel is about 1 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, of oak or ash, and tapered at
the stems to the width of the stem bands, which are screwed on over
it. The most serviceable keel is about 2¹⁄₂ in. wide in the center, and
tapers to fit the bands at either end. When made of ³⁄₄-in. oak, or
ash, it makes a splendid protection for the bottom of the hull,
especially when the craft is used in rocky waters. Unlike the narrow
keel, the flat keel makes the canoe easier to turn with the paddle, but
any form of keel will add several pounds to the weight of the craft
and is for this reason often omitted.
 Painting the Canoe

The canvas should be given a coat of shellac before the paint is

applied. This makes it waterproof. Then four coats of paint are
applied to fill the fibers of the canvas. To make a smooth finishing
coat, rub down the second and third coats with fine sandpaper. The
entire woodwork of the canoe should be finished with three coats of
good-quality outside spar varnish.
A slatted grating, made of soft-pine lattice stuff, about 1¹⁄₈ in. wide
and 1¹⁄₄ in. thick, will afford protection to the bottom of the canoe. For
summer use this is desirable, but may be omitted on long trips and
when soft footwear is worn. The grating should not be fastened to
the ribs, but the parallel strips screwed, or nailed, to cross strips,
curved to fit the contour of the canoe’s bottom. The grating should
extend from well under the stern seat up to the stem splice in the
bow, and should be nicely tapered to make a neat appearance. By
fastening two or three little blocks of wood so that they will extend up
between the slats, one may screw small brass buttons into these
blocks to keep the slatted floor in place, thus making it easily
removable when washing out the canoe.
 A Ring-and-Egg Trick
This trick consists in borrowing a ring and wrapping it in a
handkerchief from which it is made to disappear, to be found in an
egg, taken from a number in a plate.
Obtain a wedding ring and sew it into one corner of a
handkerchief. After borrowing a ring, pretend to wrap it in the center
of the handkerchief, but instead wrap up the one concealed in the
corner, retaining the borrowed one in the hand. Before beginning the
performance, place in the bottom of an egg cup a small quantity of
soft wax. When getting the cup, slip the borrowed ring into the wax in
an upright position. An egg is then chosen by anyone in the
audience. This is placed in the egg cup, the ring in the bottom being
pressed into the shell. With a button hook break the top of the shell
and fish out the ring. The handkerchief is then taken out to show that
the ring has vanished.
 Lock for Gasoline Tank on a Launch

Filler-Pipe Cover Lock to Prevent the Theft of Gasoline from a Motorboat

Having trouble by thefts of gasoline from the tank in my launch, I

made the following device to prevent them, which proved very
effective. A strap hinge, about 12 in. long, was procured, and on one
wing, near the outer end, I fastened a staple made of a large nail,
and near the center a large hole was drilled to fit over the pipe, or
opening, to the tank. The other wing of the hinge was bent to the
shape shown, and an oak block was fastened in the bend with wood
screws. A hole was bored in the block to fit over the end of the pipe.
A slot was cut in the same wing at the end to receive the staple. In
turning the wing over to cover the pipe end, the staple was brought
into position for a padlock. After locking the device, most of the
screws are covered so that it is almost impossible to remove them
without taking off the lock.—Contributed by Stephen H. Freeman,
Klamath Falls, Oregon.
A Quick-Acting Bench Vise
A Quick-Acting Vise Made of Hard Wood for the Home Worker’s Bench
 For those who desire a quick-acting vise and cannot afford the
price of a manufactured one, I designed the vise shown in the
illustration. A detail is given of each part, with dimensions, so that it
is not difficult to make it from hard wood. The roll A binds the vise so
that it remains rigid, while the cam in front gives the necessary play,
to release or tighten as preferred. The clamp jaw B is pivoted so that
it swings loose, thus making it fit any surface that may not be parallel
with its opposite side. In releasing the stock, the cam is first turned,
and then the front part of the vise is pulled up to relieve the roll A.
The front jaw can be then moved back and forth to take stock of any
size desired. As soon as the stock is placed, the roll A falls into place
and clamps the jaw arm C.—Contributed by J. C. Hansen, Maywood,
Ill.

¶A practical vacuum will raise water 30 feet.

 How To Build
A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART II
Sailing the Open Paddling Canoe

S ailing and its recreations are afforded the owner of an open

paddling canoe, for a satisfactory sailing rig may be provided at
small cost. A regulation sailing outfit may be purchased, but it is
rather costly, and if the canoeist cannot use a sail frequently,
purchasing an outfit is unduly expensive. A sailing rig may be
constructed even by one of only moderate skill, who will devote a
few hours to it. The specifications given, if carefully followed, will
enable one to make a sailing rig as serviceable as a ready-made
outfit, and at about one-half the cost.
The specifications and list of material for a sailing outfit suitable for
a 16-ft. open canoe are as follows:
1 piece bamboo, 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, 6 ft. 10 in. long, for mast.
2 pieces bamboo fishing rod, 1 in. at butt, 10 ft. long.
1 piece, cedar or white pine, 5 ft. long, 4 in. wide, and ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, for leeboard
thwart.
 2 pieces, cedar or pine, 28 in. long, 10 in. wide, and ³⁄₈ in. thick, for mast
thwart.
1 piece, cedar or pine, 27¹⁄₂ in. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ³⁄₄ in. thick, for mast
thwart.
1 piece, cedar or pine, 5 in. long, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, and 1 in. thick, for mast step.
8 yd. unbleached cotton sheeting, 1 yd. wide, for making sail.
30 ft. ¹⁄₄-in. cotton rope, for halyard and main sheet.
4 brass lantern-board hooks, for clamping mast thwart and leeboard thwart to
canoe.
2 brass stove bolts, 3 in. long and ⁵⁄₁₆ in. diameter, with washers and thumb
nuts, for clamping leeboards at desired angle.
1 brass single-boom jaw for canoe, 2 in. long, for keeping boom on mast.
3 brass screw eyes, 1¹⁄₂ in. long with ¹⁄₂-in. eye, one for halyard, two for spars.
1 brass split ring, 1¹⁄₂ in., for fastening ends of spars together.
1 brass “S” hook, 1³⁄₄ in. long, for fastening ends of spars.
In converting the paddling canoe for sailing, it is desirable that it be
unmarred, as far as possible. The rig described represents the result
of experiments with various arrangements, and has been found to be
safe and convenient. The original outfit has been in use for six years
and will still serve for some time.
The lateen rig is best for an open canoe, because a shorter mast
is required for the same sail area. An open craft is less suited for
carrying sail than one which is decked fore, aft, and amidships. It is
not safe to rig a canoe too heavily, and the rig described has been
found to be well proportioned.
Bamboo is best for the mast, because it is lighter and tougher than
a solid wood spar of the same dimensions, and is readily procured.
Dealers in rugs use bamboo of 1¹⁄₂ to 2-in. diameter on which to roll
carpets, and it may usually be purchased of them.
Cut the bamboo to a length of 6 ft. 10 in., and whittle a wooden
plug, about 3 in. long, tapering it so that it will wedge firmly inside,
taking care not to split the cane. Bore a small hole through the cane
2 in. from the top, plug it and fix a screw eye into the plug. Drive
small brads through the cane into the plug to prevent the former from
splitting. A brass ferrule fitted over the end of the bamboo will make
a strong and neat finish.
 The sail is made in the form of a triangle and measures 9 ft. on
each side. It is best to have it sewed on a machine. The sail is
bighted with parallel strips, or folds, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, spaced 6 in. apart,
as shown at the left in the illustration. First cut the canvas to the
approximate size and shape by laying the spars over it and marking
the outline with a pencil. Next sew the separate widths together,
lapping one edge over the other about ¹⁄₂ in., and sewing close to
both edges. The bights or folds run at an angle and parallel with the
loose ends of the leech of the sail. The sail should then be reinforced
at the corners by sewing segments of cloth at these points. Along the
edges which are to be lashed to the spars, fold over a strip of canvas
and sew it to make a 1-in. hem. Run a ¹⁄₂-in. tape into the fold along
the leech while sewing the hem. This tape is fastened to the spar at
each end, to take up the slack caused by the stretching of the sail
after use, thus preventing that bugbear of sailors—a flapping leech.
 Sailing and Its Recreations are Afforded the Owner of an Open
Paddling Canoe, for a Satisfactory Sailing Rig may be Provided at
Small Cost. The Canoe Is Practically Unmarred, yet the Sailing
Outfit is Installed Substantially and may be Removed Quickly. The
Canoe Is Shown Running Nearly Free—before the Wind—and the
Leeboards are Therefore Only Partly Submerged

The mast thwart is made as shown at the right in the illustration,

and has a hole cut in the center to fit the mast. It is also provided
with two lantern-board hooks, one at each end, with which to clamp
the thwart to the gunwales. The mast is supported at the bottom by
means of the mast step, which is a block of wood, shaped as shown
to give a neat appearance. It is fastened to the grating, or to the ribs
if no grating is used.
The leeboard thwart is also shown in the sketch, at the right. The
short upright ends are set at an angle so that they conform to the
curve of the canoe and wedge the thwart into place immediately aft
of the mast. The ends are grooved to fit the thwart and fastened with
screws. A carriage bolt is fitted through each end piece and provided
with a wing nut, which holds the leeboard in place on each side. The
leeboards may thus be adjusted at the desired angle by fixing them
with wing nuts. No dimensions are given, for it is obvious that they
will vary on different styles and sizes of canoes. A finish in keeping
with that of the canoe should be applied. Smooth all the work as
carefully as possible with sharp tools and sandpaper it lightly. Three
coats of spar varnish will give a satisfactory finish.
The sail is hoisted by running the halyard through the screw eye at
the top of the mast, until the gaff spar is close to the mast top, as
illustrated.
The boom jaw is fastened on the boom, with the open end 18 in.
from the forward end of the boom. This will permit the forefoot of the
sail to extend forward of the mast. By tying the halyard at various
points along the gaff, the point of balance may be found. For the
sake of safety the halyard should not be tied to the forward thwart,
but run under it to the stern within easy reach of the canoeist. The
main sheet should never be made fast, but the rope merely looped
around the thwart and held in the hand or beneath the foot, so that it
may be released quickly if a puff of wind should strike the sail.
Steering is done with a paddle. This method is more convenient
than a rudder where the single sail is used. The paddle is always
used on the lee side—away from the wind—and the wake keeps the
blade close to the side of the canoe, without much effort on the part
of the person guiding it. When turning about make the regular
paddling stroke, but finish it by thrusting the blade of the paddle
away from the canoe. This will tend to keep the canoe in its course,
and the paddle will not be drawn across the wake, which would
affect the headway of the craft.
The lower the weight is placed in a canoe, or boat, the greater will
be its stability. Hence, in sailing a canoe, sit on the floor of the craft,
and when turning about, turn against the wind and not with it. The
experienced canoeist can shift his course readily, but the novice
must be cautious, even in a moderate breeze. It would be well to sail
in shallow water and to wear only bathing costume when learning to
sail a canoe. When tacking and sailing close-hauled the leeboard is
the most effective, but as the boards are thin both may be kept down
without greatly reducing the speed. When running before the wind
both boards may be raised to give the greatest speed.

¶Paint may be readily removed from windows by applying a cloth

dipped in hot vinegar or acetic acid. This applied to brushes will
soften them.
 How To Build
A Canoe
By Stillman Taylor
PART III
Fitting a Motor into a Paddling Canoe

A stanchly built canoe of sufficient length and beam may be

converted into a light, serviceable, and convenient power boat by
the installation of a light-weight motor of about 2 hp. While the craft
thus becomes less available for shallow waters and cannot be used
so readily on trips where portages are necessary, a power canoe has
advantages in that longer trips may be undertaken with less regard
for weather conditions. Greater speed and the fact that physical
power need not be expended also increase the value and range of
operations of such a craft.
Unless a motor of extremely light weight is procured, a canoe of
frail construction and less than 16 ft. long is not likely to stand the jar
of the driving mechanism. The canoe illustrated in the page plate is
18 ft. long, of 36-in. beam, and strongly planked, decked, and
braced. A canoe of even broader beam would tend to give more
stability in rough water, and if it is desired to transport heavy
camping packs, or other material, in the craft, this factor should be
observed particularly. Likewise, the depth and draft must be
considered, as the carrying capacity and seaworthiness of a canoe
depend in part on these factors. The fitting of the various parts of the
mechanism and accessories must be done with the aim of balancing
the load evenly. If properly disposed, the weight of these parts
should tend to lower the center of gravity of the canoe, thus
rendering it more stable.
The actual work of installing the motor and fittings should be
preceded by careful planning and the making of a full-size diagram
of the stern portion of the canoe as rebuilt. Too much care cannot be
taken in this work, as, if it is neglected, the craft may be rendered
unsafe, or the motor and fittings may not operate satisfactorily. The
motor should be set in the stern, as shown in the illustration, as this
will permit the use of a minimum of shafting and other fittings which
must be accommodated. The exact location of the motor may vary
with canoes and engines of different types. This should be tested out
by placing the motor in the canoe and noting the effect on its balance
in the water. For a canoe of the dimensions indicated, and a light-
weight motor, 5 ft. from the stern is a satisfactory position. The motor
should be placed as low in the canoe as possible, allowing the
flywheel and crank case sufficient clearance below.
A convenient method of operation is as follows: Place the canoe
on boxes, or sawhorses, taking care that it is properly supported
about 2 ft. from the ground, or floor. Take measurements directly
from the canoe, or part to be fitted, whenever convenient. Procure
two sheets of paper, 30 in. wide and 7 ft. long; mark one “diagram”
and the other “templates,” and use the former for the full-size detail
and the other for the making of templates for curved or irregular
parts.
Begin the diagram by drawing the base line AB, Fig. 3. This is the
lower line of the engine bed and the upper surface of the ribs. Draw
the line CD perpendicular to the base line, and 18 in. from the left
end of the sheet. The point C is the center of the stern end of the
driving shaft. The dimensions of parts are not given, except in
special instances, since they must be obtained from the particular
canoe and other parts entering into the construction. Indicate the
layer of ribs E, the planking F, and the keel G. Using the template
sheet, cut a template or pattern for the curved stern. This may be
readily and accurately done by fixing a straightedge to the keel and
permitting it to extend to A. Rest the long edge of the sheet on the
straightedge when fitting the template to the curve. Use the template
as a guide in marking the curve on the diagram, as at HJ. The curve
K, of the stern decking, may be indicated similarly.
Determine the distance the motor is to be set from the stern and
indicate it by the perpendicular line L. Measuring from the base line,
indicate the height of the center of the motor shaft from the floor, as
at M. This should be made as low as possible, permitting sufficient
clearance for the flywheel and the crank case. Draw a straight line
from C to M, which will thus indicate the center line of the driving
shaft. This line is fundamental in determining the dimensions and
placing of certain parts and fittings, and should be established with
extreme care. The size and exact position of the engine bed N may
now be indicated. Its dimensions, given in detail in the perspective
sketch, Fig. 5, are suggestive only. They may be varied in order to
provide proper bearing on the floor, and so that the bolts holding the
bed may pass through ribs. The cross brace at the forward end is
important, and should be fitted carefully over a rib. The upper line of
the engine bed must not be confounded with the center line of the
shaft, for in many engines they are on a horizontal line when viewed
from the forward end, yet not necessarily so. The slant of the engine
bed must be made accurately, as any deflection from the angle of
the center line of the shaft will disarrange the installation.
The shaft log O may next be indicated and a template made for
use in guiding the bit when boring the hole for the shaft through it.
The template used for the curve HJ may be altered by drawing the
shaft log on it at the proper place. The point P, from which the bit is
to be started when the shaft log is fixed into place, should be
indicated and the center line of the shaft extended to Q, may then be
used as a guide for the bit. If the homemade type of bearing R is
used, it should be indicated on the diagram. A metal bearing may be
made, or a suitable one obtained from dealers in marine hardware.
In the latter case it will probably be necessary to block up the bottom
of the canoe in order to provide a flat, horizontal bearing surface for
the bearing flange.
The rudder and other parts, which are not directly connected with
the motive-power unit, may be indicated in detail on the diagram or
be made from sketches of a smaller scale. Paper patterns, made full
size, offer a convenient method of outlining the parts of the engine
bed, the rudder, and other irregular pieces. When the diagram is
complete, measurements may be transferred directly from it without
reducing them to figures, and, wherever possible, parts should be
fitted to it.
The shaft log, shaft bearing, and engine bed may be made of oak,
or other strong hard wood. It will be found desirable to have the
engine bed complete before an attempt is made to fit the shaft and
its connections. It is made of 1¹⁄₂-in. stock, bolted together with lag
screws and fixed firmly into the canoe with bolts. The heads of the
bolts should be provided with cotton and red-lead packing, and care
should be taken that the bolts pass through ribs.
The shaft log should be fixed into place before it is bored. Bolts
may be passed through it and fastened on the inside if there is room
for drawing up the nuts in the stern. Large screws may be used to
aid in the fastening and smaller screws may be used from the inside.
The lower rudder support will also aid in holding the log in place, and
the iron straps S, Fig. 3, will insure its rigidity. This is an important
point in the construction, as if the log is not fixed positively, the
thrashing of the propeller will soon loosen it.