All Thumbs Guide To Repairing Major Home Appliances

GUIDE TO
ROBERT W. WOOI
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2019 with funding from
Kahle/Austin Foundation
https://archive.org/details/allthumbsguideto0000wood_q7u4
A(L WJMJB&
Guide to
Repairing Major
Home Appliances
Other All Thumbs Guides
Home Wiring
Home Plumbing
Painting, Wallpapering and Stenciling
Guide to
Repairing Major
Home Appliances
Robert W. Wood
Illustrations by Steve Hoeft
TAB BOOKS
TAB Blue Ridge Summit, PA
FIRST EDITION
FIRST PRINTING
© 1992 by TAB Books.

TAB Books is a division of McGraw-Hill, Inc.
Printed in the United States of America. All rights reserved. The publisher takes no
responsibility for the use of any of the materials or methods described in this book,
nor for the products thereof.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Wood, Robert W., 1933-
Repairing major home appliances / by Robert W. Wood.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 0-8306-2550-X ISBN 0-8306-2549-6 (pbk.)
1. Electric apparatus and appliances—Amateurs' manuals.
2. Household appliances—Maintenance and repair—Amateurs' manuals.
I. Title.
TK9901.W657 1992 92-285
643'.6—dc20 CIP
Acquisitions Editor: Kimberly Tabor

Designer: Jaclyn J. Boone
Editorial Team: Susan D. Wahlman, Editor
Joanne Slike
Production Team: Katherine G. Brown, Director of Production
Janice Ridenour, Layout
Jana L. Fisher, Typesetting
Cover Design: Lori E. Schlosser
Cover Illustration: Denny Bond, East Petersburg, PA
Cartoon Caricature: Michael Malle, Pittsburgh, PA ATS
The All Thumbs Guarantee
TAB Books/McGraw-Hill guarantees that you will be able to follow
every step of each project in this book, from beginning to end, or
you will receive your money back. If you are unable to follow the
All Thumbs steps, return this book, your store receipt, and a brief
explanation to:
All Thumbs
P.O. Box 581
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17214-9998
About the Binding

This and every All Thumbs book has a special lay-flat binding. To
take full advantage of this binding, open the book to any page and
run your finger along the spine, pressing down as you do so; the
book will stay open at the page you've selected.
The lay-flat binding is designed to withstand constant use. Unlike

regular book bindings, the spine will not weaken or crack when
you press down on the spine to keep the book open.
FIRST EDITION
FIRST PRINTING
© 1992 by TAB Books.

TAB Books is a division of McGraw-Hill, Inc.
Printed in the United States of America. All rights reserved. The publisher takes no
responsibility for the use of any of the materials or methods described in this book,
nor for the products thereof.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Wood, Robert W., 1933-

Repairing major home appliances / by Robert W. Wood.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 0-8306-2550-X ISBN 0-8306-2549-6 (pbk.)
1. Electric apparatus and appliances—Amateurs' manuals.
2. Household appliances—Maintenance and repair—Amateurs' manuals.
I. Title.
TK9901.W657 1992 92-285
643'.6—dc20 CIP
Acquisitions Editor: Kimberly Tabor

Designer: Jaclyn ]. Boone
Editorial Team: Susan D. Wahlman, Editor
Joanne Slike
Production Team: Katherine G. Brown, Director of Production
Janice Ridenour, Layout
Jana L. Fisher, Typesetting
Cover Design: Lori E. Schlosser
Cover Illustration: Denny Bond, East Petersburg, PA
Cartoon Caricature: Michael Malle, Pittsburgh, PA ATS
The All Thumbs Guarantee
TAB Books/McGraw-Hill guarantees that you will be able to follow
every step of each project in this book, from beginning to end, or
you will receive your money back. If you are unable to follow the
All Thumbs steps, return this book, your store receipt, and a brief
explanation to:
All Thumbs
P.O. Box 581
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17214-9998
About the Binding

This and every All Thumbs book has a special lay-flat binding. To
take full advantage of this binding, open the book to any page and
run your finger along the spine, pressing down as you do so; the
book will stay open at the page you've selected.
The lay-flat binding is designed to withstand constant use. Unlike

regular book bindings, the spine will not weaken or crack when
you press down on the spine to keep the book open.
Contents
Preface ix
Introduction xi
1 Electric Water Heaters 1
2 Clothes Washers 19
3 Clothes Dryers 39
4 Refrigerators 59
5 Ice Makers 78
6 Dishwashers 86
7 Electric Ranges 105
Glossary 123
Index 127
Preface
A collection of books about do-it-yourself home repair and

/ \ improvement, the All Thumbs series was created not for the
.ZA. skilled jack-of-all-trades, but for the average homeowner.
If your familiarity with the various systems in the home is minimal,
or your budget doesn't keep pace with today's climbing costs, this
series is tailor-made for you.
Several different types of professional contractors are required to
construct even the smallest home. Carpenters build the framework,
plumbers install the pipes, and electricians complete the wiring. Few
people can do it all. The necessary skills often require years to master.
The professional works quickly and efficiently and depends on a
large volume of work to survive. Because service calls are time-
consuming, often requiring more travel time than actual labor, they
can be expensive. The All Thumbs series saves you time and money
by showing you how to make most common repairs yourself.
The guides cover topics such as home wiring; plumbing; painting,
stenciling, and wallpapering; and repairing major appliances, to
name a few. Copiously illustrated, each book details the procedures
in an easy-to-follow, step-by-step format, making many repairs and
home improvements well within the ability of nearly any homeowner.
IX
Introduction
D esigned for the average homeowner, this book addresses the

I need for practical information on the inner workings and
repairs of major electrical home appliances. To make effective
diagnoses and avoid time-consuming guesswork, you must first
understand the construction and operation of the appliance. Since a
number of manufacturers market the same appliance, an attempt
to cover them all would require a large volume indeed. However, all
appliances operate on the same principle. With common sense and a
basic understanding of how the appliance works, most repairs are not
difficult at all.
Try to get a mental picture of what the appliance was designed to
do. Was it designed to heat or cool, run a motor, or both? Normally
that's all appliances do. If it is supposed to heat or cool, is it receiving
electricity? If it is receiving electricity, does it have a thermostat?
If it has a motor, does the motor run or make a noise? By checking
probable causes in a logical order, you should be able to find most
problems in a few minutes.
Before making repairs, you will need to perform a number of
tests with a volt-ohmmeter, so you should familiarize yourself with
the owner's manual that comes with the meter. The main points to
remember: When making voltage tests, always keep your fingers on
XI
xii Repairing Major Home Appliances
the insulated part of the probes; and be sure the meter is on the
proper voltage scale, not on the resistance scale. When measuring
resistance, or continuity, turn the knob to the resistance scale. Then
zero the meter by touching the probes together and adjusting the
meter to 0 before making the test.
V'OLT - OHMMETEK
CONTINUITY TESTER
Introduction xiii
To use a continuity tester, first make sure that no voltage is

present. The appliance should be turned off and unplugged. Then
touch the probes together to see if the tester's bulb lights. If the bulb
lights, the tester is working properly. Next, connect the probe to each
terminal on the switch (or whatever you are testing) to see if the bulb
lights again. A lit bulb indicates continuity.
Most of the parts that you'll need can be purchased at your local
appliance parts supply store. Just look in your phone directory under
Appliance-Major-Parts. You'll need to know the make and model of
the appliance and the number of the part, if it has one. If the store
doesn't stock the particular part you need, someone there should be
able to order it for you.
Before making any repairs, consult the owner's manual that came
with the appliance. It usually offers troubleshooting tips. Also check
to see if the appliance is still under warranty. In most cases, any
repairs made by an unauthorized service will void the warranty.
At times, professional help is necessary, but even then, you
need a better understanding of your appliance. You will be able to
help pinpoint the problem and are less likely to be overcharged by
an unscrupulous repair shop.
The book begins with electric water heaters, then covers laundry
appliances, and ends with kitchen appliances. Each chapter includes
a tools list and illustrated step-by-step instructions explaining how to
repair the most common problems that occur with each particular
appliance. The troubleshooting guides near the beginning of each
chapter will help you determine what you need to look for on the
malfunctioning appliance.
CHAPTER ONE
Electric
Water Heaters
E lectric water heaters normally have two heating elements,
with each element controlled by a thermostat. Mounted on the
outer wall of the tank above each element, the thermostats
sense the water temperature through the wall of the tank. To reduce
energy demands, the thermostats work in tandem, one thermostat
operating at a time. First the upper thermostat turns on the top
element to heat the water in the top of the tank. When the water gets
hot, the thermostat turns off the top element, and the bottom
element comes on to heat the remaining cold water at the bottom of
the tank.
The hot water leaves from the top of the tank and cold water
enters from a tube near the bottom of the tank. The bottom
thermostat senses the cold water and turns on the element. If enough
hot water is used so that the water at the top drops below the setting
of the upper thermostat, the top element comes back on to provide
additional heat. As a safety measure, a high-temperature cutoff on
the upper thermostat turns off the power to the water heater when
the water temperature reaches 210 degrees Fahrenheit.
Before you begin any repairs, always turn off the power to the
heater at the circuit breaker. Don't remove any access panels until the
power is off.
1
2 Repairing Major Home Appliances
Tools & Materials

□ Volt-ohmmeter □ Adjustable wrench
□ Screwdriver □ Pipe wrench
□ Bucket or garden hose □ Pipe tape
RELIEF
HOT WATER VALVE COLD WATER
OUTLET s
INLET
UPPER
THERMOSTAT
UPPER
HEAT/NG
ELEMENT
LOWER
THERMOSTAT
DRAIN
LOWER
heating
element
Electric Water Heaters 3
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Problem Probable causes Solutions
No hot water Tripped circuit breaker Reset breaker or replace blown fuse.
or blown fuse If it fails again, call an electrician.
High-temperature Push reset button on high-temperature
cutoff on cutoff. If button trips again, check
thermostats and elements.
High-temperature Check high-temperature cutoff.
cutoff faulty
Thermostat not turning Check thermostats; replace if
on element necessary.
Heating element faulty Check elements; replace if necessary.
Not enough hot water Low thermostat setting Adjust thermostat.
Heating element bad Check elements for continuity.

Water heater too small Replace water heater with larger one
or stagger use.
Not enough hot water Scale on elements Soak elements in vinegar and scrub
and noisy plumbing off scale.
Scale inside tank; Drain tank until water runs clear.

sediment in tank
Water too hot Thermostat set too high Adjust thermostat.
Thermostat failed Check thermostat; replace if necessary.
Insulation missing from Pack insulation tight around

around thermostats thermostats.
Water leaks Heating element gasket Replace element gasket.

leaking
Drain valve leaking Tighten or replace drain valve.
Relief valve opening Check or replace relief valve.

Step 1-1. Getting started.

First turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater. Remove both
access panels to the thermostats. Push the insulation back clear of the
thermostats. Fiberglass can irritate the skin, so wear gloves for protection.
Step 1-2. Checking for power.

Set the volt-ohmmeter on 250 volts ac. Hold the meter probes by the
insulated covers and touch a probe to each of the top two terminal
screws of the high-temperature cutoff. These screws are where the
two wires from the electrical panel are connected. Now touch one
probe to the exposed metal wall of the tank (or a mounting bolt)
and the other probe to each of the terminals. In all cases, the meter
should read 0 volts. (If it doesn't, don't touch anything—the power
is still on.) If voltage is not present, turn the power back on and
carefully repeat the test. The meter should read 220 volts across the
terminals and 120 volts between each terminal and the wall of the
tank. If it doesn't, you'll probably need an electrician, because power
is not getting to the water heater. If voltage is present, go to the next
step. Remember, do all work with the power off.
Step 1-3. Checking the reset button.

Turn off the breaker at the service panel. Retest for voltage at the
water heater to make sure none is present. Then push in the cutoff
reset button. If you hear it click, water might have seeped into one
of the heating elements, causing a short. The short will show up
later, when you check the elements.
Step 1-4. Checking the high-temperature cutoff.

Disconnect one of the wires to the heating element
(it doesn't matter which one). Set the volt-ohmmeter
on the R x 1 scale and touch a probe to each of the
two screw terminals to the left of the reset button.
Repeat the test on the two terminals to the right of
the button. The meter needle should move to 0 each
time, showing a connection. If it does, your next step
is to check the thermostat and elements (Step 1-6).
If it doesn't, replace the high-temperature cutoff.
Step 1-5. Replacing the high-temperature cutoff.

Before disconnecting any wires, label the wires and draw a
wiring diagram. Now disconnect the wires and the two metal
straps going to the thermostat. Pull up on the cutoff and remove
it from the spring clips holding it in place. Push in the reset button
on the new cutoff and install it behind the spring clips. Connect the
metal straps and wires to their corresponding places on the new cutoff.
HIGH-TEMPERATURE.
Step 1-6. Checking the top thermostat.

Make sure the power to the heater is off.
Disconnect the wire to the top element.
Use a screwdriver to turn the thermostat
clockwise to its highest setting.
Step 1-7. Completing the test.

With the meter set on R x 1, touch one
of the probes to each of the two screw
terminals on the left side of the thermostat.
The meter should move to 0. Now turn the
thermostat to its lowest setting and repeat
the tests. This time, the meter should not
move. If the thermostat fails the tests,
install a new one.
Step 1-8.
Checking the bottom thermostat.
Disconnect one of the wires to the bottom element.
Turn both the top and bottom thermostats to their
lowest settings. With the meter set onRxl, touch a
probe to each of the two terminal screws on the bottom
thermostat. The needle on the meter should not move.
Step 1-9.
Completing the test.
Now turn the bottom thermostat to its
highest setting. The needle should move
to 0. If not, replace the bottom thermostat
with a new one. If the thermostats are
good, check the elements (Step 1-12).
Step 1-10. Removing the thermostat.

Make sure the power is off. Before disconnecting any wires, label
the wires and draw a wiring diagram. To remove the top thermostat,
first remove the screws connecting the two metal straps to the high-
temperature cutoff and the two wires from the thermostat. Slide
the high-temperature cutoff up out of the way. (The bottom
thermostat shown here, does not have a high-temperature cutoff.)
Loosen the two bolts on the thermostat's bracket. The bracket holds
the thermostat against the wall of the tank. Now slide the thermostat
up and out from behind the bracket.
Step 1-11. Installing a thermostat.

Making sure that the back of the thermostat is flush against
the wall of the heater, tighten the mounting bolts on the bracket,
and press the cutoff back into place. Reconnect the wires and
set both thermostats to about 140 degrees.
high-Temperature.
cutoff
thermostat
Step 1-12. Checking heating elements.

To check for continuity, make sure the power to the heater is off
at the service panel. Remove both access panels on the heater.
Check again for voltage. Wearing gloves, carefully pull the insulation
back to get to the terminals. Disconnect one of the wires to each
element. Set the meter to Rxl and touch a probe to each of the
two screw terminals on the elements. The needle should move to
somewhere in the middle of the scale—about 10 to 20 ohms. If it
doesn't, replace the element with a new one. If the element tests
as good, check it for a short.
Step 1-13. Checking the element for a short.

While the power to the heater is still off, adjust the meter to a higher
setting (RxlK or more) and touch one probe to one of the element's
mounting bolts and the other probe to one of the element's terminals
The needle should not move at all. If it does, a short circuit exists
between the element and the tank. Install a new element.
(D^> ■fv JL.
)z 1 c J □□
Step 1-14. [o
Draining the tank.
Shut off the cold water supply to the heater at the
valve on the cold water pipe coming into the heater.
Open a hot water faucet at a convenient sink to equalize
the air pressure in the system. Attach a garden hose to
the heater's drain or place a bucket underneath the drain.
Open the drain. If the water drains slowly open more faucets.
If you are draining the heater with a bucket, watch to make sure
that the bucket doesn't overflow. After the tank has drained,
disconnect the two wires from the element. Remove the four
bolts holding the element and the thermostat bracket.
Now remove the element and the old gasket.
Step 1-15.
Ensuring a tight seal.
Scrape away any scale or rust around
the opening with an old screwdriver so
that the new gasket will make a tight seal.
Step 1-16. Installing a new element.

Install the new element and gasket. Mount the thermostat bracket
and thermostat. Connect the two wires to the element. Push the
insulation back in place and install the access panels. Close the drain
on the tank and open the water supply to refill the tank. When water
runs from the hot water faucet at the sink, the tank is full. If you
turned on additional faucets to make the tank drain faster, be sure
to turn them back off. Turn the power back on.
Step 1-17. Testing the pressure relief valve.

Stand clear of the valve outlet. Remember that the water is hot.
Now lift the spring lever. About a cup of hot water should spurt out.
Operate the lever a few times to remove any sediment in the valve.
If the water does not come out or the valve drips, replace it.
NOTE: If the heater is old, the valve might stick open. If it does,
quickly shut off the cold water supply and go to the next step.
PRESSURE
Relief
valve
lever
Step 1-18. Removing the old valve.

First turn off the power and close the cold water valve
to the tank. Drain a gallon or so of water from the tank
if the relief valve is on the top of the water heater.
Drain about five gallons if the relief valve is on the
side of the tank. Use an adjustable wrench to remove VALVE
the discharge pipe. Use a pipe wrench to turn the
relief valve counterclockwise. Apply firm, steady
pressure to loosen the valve. Remove the valve and
take it with you when you buy a new one.
adjustable.
WfcENcH
discharge
PIPE. —
Step 1-19. Installing the new valve.

Wrap a couple of turns of pipe tape clockwise
over the threads of the new valve. Thread the
new valve into the opening in the tank. Use a
pipe wrench to tighten the valve. Reinstall the
discharge pipe and open the cold water valve.
Turn the power back on.
CHAPTER TWO
Clothes Washers
"V" A "T hen you turn on a washer, you start a timer connected to
1/\ / switches that control the operation of the machine. First,
V V a water mixing valve opens, letting a mixture of hot and
cold water into the tub. When the water reaches the preset level, the
switch closes the mixing valve. The timer then turns on a motor that
operates an agitator, which churns the clothes back and forth in the
basket. At the end of the wash cycle, the timer turns on the pump to
drain the tub. The basket spins at high speed, removing any excess
water by centrifugal force. The pump pushes the water from the
machine into a stand pipe connected to a house drain. A safety
switch stops the machine if the lid is raised.
Three systems operate together in a clothes washer. The electrical
system, controlled by the timer and switches, operates the motor and
valves; the mechanical system, which includes the transmission and
drive belt, operates the agitator and the basket; and the plumbing
system moves the water through the pump and hoses. The most
common problems with clothes washers are leaks in the hoses and
pump (the plumbing system), followed by a slipping or broken drive
belt (the mechanical system), then a faulty timer (the electrical
system). An important guide to the electrical system is the wiring
diagram provided by the manufacturer. You usually can find the
diagram inside the control panel, but it might be attached to the
inside of the back panel.
19
Most repairs can be made

by the homeowner, unless the
transmission is involved. Please
note that no repairs should be
attempted while the machine is
running, particularly if water
is on the floor.
Tools & Materials

□ Screwdriver
□ Pliers
□ Needle-nose pliers
□ Socket wrench and sockets
□ Volt-ohmmeter
Washer doesn't run No power to washer Make sure washer is plugged in and
circuit breaker has not tripped.
Lid switch activated Make sure lid is closed. Check lid
switch.
Timer faulty Check timer and timer motor.
Motor faulty Check motor; replace if necessary.
Clothes Washers 21
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE CONTINUED.
Washer doesn't fill Water turned off Turn on faucet.

Hoses kinked Remove any kinks in hose.
Screens or water inlet Clean screens or water inlet valve.
valve clogged
Water inlet valve faulty Check water inlet valve.
Timer faulty Rotate the timer dial slightly and press
control button in firmly. Check timer.
Water temperature Check water temperature switch.

switch faulty
Water level switch, hose, Check water level switch and hose
or pressure dome faulty assembly.
Washer doesn't agitate Slipping or broken drive Tighten or replace drive belt.
belt
Timer faulty Check timer.
Lid switch faulty Check lid switch.
Motor or transmission Check motor.

faulty If transmission faulty call for service.
Water doesn't drain out Kinked drain hose Straighten hose.
Suds blocking drain Turn off machine, bail out excess suds
and water, and flush tub with cold
water.
Timer faulty Check timer.
Pump faulty Replace pump.
Washer leaks Loose or cracked hose Tighten or replace hoses.
Pump leaking Replace pump.
Washer vibrates Load unbalanced Redistribute clothes.

excessively Adjust washer's leveling feet.
Washer not level
Washer doesn't spin Loose or broken drive Tighten or replace drive belt.
belt
Motor or transmission Replace motor or, if transmission
faulty faulty, call for service.
Step 2-1.
Removing the control panel.
Unplug the washer and pull it away
from the wall slightly. Remove the
control panel by removing the two
screws from the bottom front corners
of the panel.
Tilt the panel forward and lay it face down on the towel. You now
have access to the timer, the timer motor, the water level switch, and
the water temperature switches. You also should notice the wiring diagram.
Clothes Washers 23
Step 2-3. Testing and replacing the timer.

Locate the terminals on the timer that operate the cycle you want to
test. (Refer to wiring diagram.) Disconnect the wiring plug to get
to the terminals. Turn the timer control knob clockwise to the
cycle you want to test. Set the volt-ohmmeter to Rxl and
touch a probe to each of the two terminals for that cycle.
The meter should go to 0; if it doesn't,
replace the timer with a new one.
If it does, test the timer motor.
WIRING 4
PLUG,
To install the new timer,

remove the control knob and the
screws holding the timer in place.
Install the new timer; reconnect the
wires and control knob. Reinstall the
control panel and plug in the washer
Step 2-4. Testing the timer motor.

Disconnect the two wires coming from the motor.
Set the volt-ohmmeter to R x 100; touch a probe
to each of the two motor wires. The meter needle
should move to about 3000 ohms. If it doesn't,
install a new timer motor. Depending on the
model, you might be able to replace the timer
motor separately. Otherwise, you will have to
replace the complete timer unit (Step 2-3).
Step 2-5.
Testing the water temperature switch.
Unplug the washer and remove the control panel.
Locate the back of the water temperature switch and
determine which terminals control the temperature you want to
test. (Refer to the wiring diagram.) Draw a simple wiring diagram
and label each wire. Disconnect the wires. Turn the temperature
switch to the temperature setting you want to test. Set the volt-
ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale and touch a probe to each of the two
terminals. The meter needle should move to 0. If it doesn't, you
need to replace the switch. Remove the old switch. Install the new
switch, making the connections according to your wiring diagram.
Clothes Washers 25
Step 2-6.
Checking the air hose
to the water level switch.
With the washer unplugged and
the control panel removed, locate the
air hose going to the water level switch.
Check it for damage and kinks. Disconnect
the hose from the switch and blow through it
to remove any trapped water.
WAiTEA
LEVEL
SWITCH
Step 2-7. Testing the water level switch.

You should see three wires connected to the back of the
water level switch. Label and disconnect these wires from
the switch. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale or use
a continuity tester. Touch a probe to one terminal and the
other probe to the other two terminals. Test each terminal
to the other two for continuity. You should perform three
tests to cover each possible connection. Two of the tests
should show no connection; on one test the needle should
move to 0, showing continuity. If the needle does not move,
replace the water level switch (Step 2-9).
Step 2-8.
Performing a second test on the water level switch.
If the switch passed the first test, connect a small length of plastic
tubing to the fitting on the switch where the air hose was connected.
Blow very lightly into the tube. If plastic tubing
is not available, blow directly into the fitting
on the switch. The switch should click.
Repeat the continuity test between the
three terminals. This time, two different
terminals should show continuity. If not,
replace the switch with a new one.
Step 2-9. Installing a new water level switch.

Make sure the three wires are labeled. Disconnect them from
the switch. Remove the control knob from the front of the
control panel. Remove the switch from the back of the panel.
Mount the new switch. You might see a calibration screw
on the back of the switch. Don't turn it.
Any adjustment to this screw could
cause the tub to overfill. Reconnect
the wires and the air hose to the
switch. Install the control knob
and put the control panel
back into position.
Clothes Washers 27
Step 2-10. Checking the pressure dome.

Raise the top panel of the washer. It is held in place by spring clips
near each corner. Wrap a few turns of masking tape around a putty
knife and slide it under the top panel in each corner. Push the spring
clips back and release the top. You should now have access to the
pressure dome, the inlet valve, the lid switch, and the agitator. Look
on the right side of the tub and find the air hose from the water level
switch. The hose will be connected to the air pressure dome. Check
for any cracked or broken seals around the dome. The assembly
should be completely airtight. If you see any cracks or breaks, replace
the dome. To replace the dome, simply disconnect the hose, push
down on the dome and turn it about a quarter turn counterclockwise.
Install the new dome by pushing down and turning it a quarter turn
clockwise. Reconnect the hose.
Step 2-11. Finding the lid safety switch.

Unplug the washer and open the lid. Depending on the
type of washer, you might find two screws on the right side
of the lid opening. Loosen these two screws and raise the
top panel of the washer. You should see the lid safety
switch on the underside of the
Clothes Washers 29
Step 2-13. Testing the lid safety switch.

Use a volt-ohmmeter set on Rxl scale or a continuity tester
to test the switch. Touch the probes to each of the two terminals
of the switch. Operate the lid safety switch by hand and monitor
the movement of the meter needle. The needle should show
continuity (move to 0) when the switch is depressed, the position
it would be in with the lid closed. The needle should show no
continuity when the switch is released, the position it would be
in with the lid open. If the switch fails this test, replace it. To
replace the switch, remove it from the washer panel. Install the
new switch, reconnect the wires, and replace the plastic shield.
Step 2-14. Checking the water inlet valve.

Unplug the washer and move it out from the wall slightly.
Turn off both faucets and disconnect the hoses from the water
inlet valve on the back of the washer. Pry out the domed
strainers with a small screwdriver or knife. Be careful not to
damage the screens. Rinse the clogs from the strainer and
reinstall them, dome side up, in the valve.
Step 2-15. Testing one type of water inlet valve.

Your washer will have an inlet valve in one of two places. With
the machine unplugged and the hoses disconnected, remove
the back panel from the machine. Now lift the top panel of the
machine. Look for the valve on the bottom of a bracket on the
left corner of the machine. If it is not there, go to Step 2-16.
Clothes Washers 31
If it is there, remove the two screws holding the valve to the bracket.
Remove the valve and the attached wires through the back of the
machine. Draw a wiring diagram; then disconnect the wires from
the valve. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the RxlOO scale. The valve
should have two solenoids, each with a pair of terminals. Touch the
volt-ohmmeter's probes to the two terminals of one solenoid. Then
touch the probes to the two terminals of the second solenoid. The
needle on the meter should show continuity with some resistance,
approximately 800 ohms for each solenoid. If the meter indicates no
continuity for either solenoid, install a new valve.
Step 2-16. Testing another type of water inlet valve.

If you did not find the water inlet valve in Step 2-15, raise the top panel
of the machine and remove the splash guard from the tub rim. The inlet
valve should be located inside the cabinet on the left rear corner of the
machine. Draw a simple wiring diagram and disconnect the wires
from the solenoids. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the RxlOO scale and
test the continuity between each pair of terminals (see Step 2-15).
If the meter shows no continuity for either solenoid, replace
the inlet valve with a new one. Disconnect the hoses from
the valve inside the machine, remove the mounting
screws from the back of the machine, and pull
the valve out through the top of the cabinet.
Install the new valve in the reverse order.
Reconnect the wires, making sure they go to
the proper terminals as indicated on your
wiring diagram. Then reconnect the hoses.
Clothes Washers 33
Q
Step 2-17.
Preparing to replace the pump.
Empty the water from the tub and
unplug the machine. Turn off both
faucets and disconnect the water
supply hoses and the drain hose.
Step 2-18.
Gaining access to the pump.
Remove the back cover. If the pump is not easily
accessible, carefully tilt the washer backward
or forward, depending on the type of
washer you have. Make sure it
rests solidly against a
padded support.
FILTER.
BLANKET
OR PAP
-TRAN5MlF$»Ot>4
Step 2-19. Disconnecting the hoses from the pump.

Spread a couple of old towels under the pump—some water
will still be trapped in the pump and hoses. Use pliers to
loosen the hose clamps and slide them back on the hoses.
Twist and pull the hoses from the pump.
Step 2-20. Removing the pump.

Loosen the clamp holding the pump coupling to the pump.
Use a socket wrench and socket to loosen the pump mounting bolts.
Support the pump with one hand and remove the mounting bolts.
The pump should drop free.
If the pump was leaking rT~”
need to install a new om
Install the new pump by
reconnecting the hoses,
tightening the hose clam
mounting the pump,
and fastening the pump
to the coupling.
COUPLING
Clothes Washers 35
Step 2-21. Tightening the drive belt.

Unplug the washer and turn off the faucets. Work the
machine away from the wall a few feet and remove the
back panel. Press firmly on the drive belt with your thumb.
It should not move more than about V2 inch. If it does,
loosen the motor mount bolts slightly just enough so that
the motor can be shifted. Now shift the motor against the
belt to take out the slack. Tighten the motor mounting bolts.
SLOTTED
HOLE
Step 2-22. Testing the motor for a short.

Unplug the washer. Turn off both faucets and disconnect the hoses.
Remove the back panel. You might have to tilt the machine forward
to get access to the bottom. Locate the motor. Draw a wiring diagram,
then label and disconnect the wires from the motor. To see if the
motor is shorted to ground, set the volt-ohmmeter to the RxlK scale.
Touch one probe to the metal frame of the motor and touch the other
probe to each of the wire terminals. The needle on the meter should
not move. If it does move, you need to replace the motor.
filter
Clothes Washers 37
Step 2-23.
Testing the motor for continuity.
Now set the volt-ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale
Among the wires coming from inside the
motor, you should see one white wire.
Hold one of the probes to this wire while
touching the other probe to each of the
other colored wires one at a time. In each
test, the needle on the meter should show
continuity with a low resistance of about
10 or 15 ohms. If continuity is not shown,
replace the motor.
Step 2-24. Removing the old motor.

Working from the opened back of the washer,
MOTOR
use a socket wrench and socket to disconnect
BRACKET
the motor from the motor bracket. Unhook the
drive belt from the motor pulley. Carefully remove
the motor and pulley from the back of the machine.
REMOVE DRIVE BELT

FROM MOTOR PULLET
O
Step 2-25. Installing the new motor.

Use a hex wrench to loosen the set screw from the side of the
motor pulley. Remove the pulley. You might need to apply some
penetrating oil and tap lightly with a hammer to free the pulley
from the shaft. Install the pulley on the new motor and tighten the
set screw. If the new motor does not come with a start switch, you
need to remove the one from the old motor and install it on the
new motor. Install the new motor in the reverse order. Follow your
wiring diagram to make sure that all the wires are reconnected to
their proper terminals and that the green ground wire is connected
to the motor housing.
CHAPTER THREE
Clothes Dryers
y A T" hen you turn on a clothes dryer, you are setting the
\/\I controls that operate the motor. The motor turns on a
w ¥ blower and rotates the drum. The blower pushes air
through the exhaust duct. One or more thermostats linked to a timer
control the heating element. As the clothes tumble, hot, dry air enters
the drum, circulates through the clothes, and exits through the lint
trap and out the exhaust duct.
As always, any time you are working with electricity, make sure
the power is off or the appliance is unplugged.
Tools & Materials

□ Towel
□ Screwdriver
□ Putty knife
□ Volt-ohmmeter
□ Continuity tester
□ Adjustable wrench
□ Wire cutters
39
LINT TRAP
EXHAUST
DUCT
U
If
TE.tAPE.RlN6
SLOTS
HEATING
ELEMENT
f- j')
y
INTAKE
MOTOR grill
Clothes Dryers 41

Dryer doesn't run No power to dryer Make sure dryer is plugged
in. Check circuit breakers.
Door opened or door switch Close door.
faulty Check door switch.
Timer or timer motor faulty Test timer and timer motor.
Dryer motor faulty Test motor; replace if
necessary.
Dryer runs but doesn't Temperature selector switch Check temperature selector
heat faulty switch.
Timer faulty Check timer and timer
motor.
Thermostat faulty Check thermostat.
Heating element faulty Check heating element.
Dryer runs but doesn't Blocked lint trap or exhaust Clean lint from trap and
dry clothes duct duct.
Thermostats faulty Check thermostats.
Heater element faulty Check heating element.
Drum doesn't rotate Broken belt Replace belt.

Broken tension spring Replace spring.
Dryer motor faulty Check and replace motor if
necessary.
CONTROL PANE.U
Step 3-1.
Removing the control panel.
Unplug the dryer and remove the two
screws at the front lower corners of
the control panel. Remove any screws
on the top or sides of the control panel
Place an old towel on the top of the
dryer for protection.
Step 3-2. Gaining access to the controls.

Disconnect the control panel from the top of the dryer
and place it face down on the towel. Remove the screws
holding the rear panel in place. You now have access to
the timer, temperature selector switch, and start switch.
simT
SWITCH
TOwPeGA-ruRe
selector
switch
Clothes Dryers 43
Step 3-3. Testing the timer.

Label the wires going to the timer, draw a wiring diagram, then
disconnect the wires. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale
and turn the timer knob to the first setting. Touch one probe to
each terminal on the timer. The needle should indicate continuity
(move to 0) between at least one pair of terminals. Turn the control
knob to the next setting and repeat the test. You should get
continuity between one pair of terminals at each setting except
OFF. When the timer is off, no pair of terminals should show
continuity. If the timer fails the test, replace it. To replace the timer,
remove the control knob from the front of the panel. Disconnect
the old timer from the back of the panel. Install the new timer and
reconnect the wires according to your wiring diagram.
WIRE.
LRBEL
/

Disconnect the two wires going to the timer motor terminals. Set the
volt-ohmmeter to the Rx IK scale. Touch a probe to each of the two
motor terminals. The needle should move to approximately 2500 ohms.
If the needle fails to move, replace the motor. Remove the two screws
holding the motor in place, install the new motor, and reconnect the
wires. For some models, you might have to replace the entire timer.
KOTOR WIRE.
MOTOR
WIRE.
Clothes Dryers 45
Step 3-5. Testing the temperature selector switch.

Label the wires and draw a wiring diagram showing where the wires
connect to the switch. Disconnect the wires from the switch terminals.
Set the temperature control to the heat setting you want to test.
Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. Touch one probe to one
terminal and the other probe to the other terminal that corresponds
with the temperature selected. (If you have a dial selector, refer to
the manufacturer's wiring diagram in the control panel.)
The meter should move to 0, indicating continuity.

Repeat this test for each temperature setting on the selector switch.
If no continuity exists at any temperature setting, replace the selector
switch. Disconnect the old switch from the control panel. Install the
new switch and reconnect the wires.
Step 3-6. Checking the start switch.

Label the wires and disconnect them from the switch's terminals. Set
the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. If the switch has two terminals,
touch a probe to each terminal. The needle should not move. Now
press the start button and repeat the test. The needle now should
move to 0. If the switch has three terminals, touch a probe to the
terminal marked NC and the other probe to the terminal marked CO.
The meter should swing to 0. Now press the start button. The
needle should swing in the other direction, indicating no continuity.
If your results are different, install a new switch.
Clothes Dryers 47
Step 3-7. Gaining access to the door switch.

Unplug the dryer. If your dryer has a top-mounted lint screen,
remove the screen and the screws at the edge of the screen slot.
Wrap a few turns of masking tape around the blade of a putty knife.
Insert the blade under the top panel a couple of inches from each
corner and push in on the hidden clips to release the top panel.
Step 3-8.
Finding the door switch
for another type of dryer.
If your dryer does not have a top-mounted lint
screen, open the door and remove the four screws
under the front edge of the panel. Raise the panel
and gently rest it on the hinges in the back.
Step 3-9. Testing the door switch.

The switch should be mounted near the upper corner
of the door opening. Disconnect the two wires from the
switch terminals. Using a continuity tester or a volt-ohmmeter
set to the Rxl scale, touch a probe to each terminal of
the switch. With the door open, the needle should not CONTINUITY
TESTE*?
move, indicating no continuity. With the door closed,
or the switch plunger pressed in, the needle should
move to 0. Operate the switch manually several times
to ensure that it is not sticking. If the switch
does not work freely or it fails to check for
continuity, install a new one.
front
PANEL
SWITCH
‘PISCONhECTEP
LfcAPS
Step 3-10. Testing the thermostats.

Depending on the type of dryer, the thermostats might be located on
the blower housing and the heater box, on the heater housing, or
under the lint screen. Unplug the dryer and disconnect the exhaust
duct. Move the dryer out from the wall to gain access to the rear panel.
Use a small socket wrench or screwdriver to remove the rear panel.
Locate the thermostats. You might find three or four—test them all the
same way. You should see two wires going to each thermostat. Select a
thermostat to test and disconnect one of the wires from its terminal.
Clothes Dryers 49
Set the volt-ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale, or use a continuity tester.

Touch one probe to each terminal of the thermostat. If you are using
a volt-ohmmeter, the needle should move to 0, indicating continuity.
If you are using a continuity tester, the bulb should light. If any
thermostat fails the test, remove it and install a new one.
Step 3-11. Testing the heating element.

With the dryer unplugged and rear panel removed, locate the heater
box and the wires going to the heater terminals. If you don't see a
heater box, the dryer has heating coils located in a heater housing
behind the drum. If the dryer has heating coils, go to Step 3-14.
If you see a heater box, label and disconnect the wires to the heating
element's terminals. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. If the
element has two terminals, touch a probe to each terminal. The
needle should move to about 10 ohms. If the element has three
terminals, touch one of the probes to the middle terminal, the other
probe to each of the other two terminals. The meter should read
about 20 ohms each time.
To see if the element has shorted to ground,

set the volt-ohmmeter to the RxlO scale.
Touch one probe to the bare metal of the
heating duct and the other probe to each
of the element's terminals. The meter needle
should not move, indicating no connection.
If the element fails any test, replace it.
Clothes Dryers 51
Step 3-12. Removing the heater box.

Remove the screws that hold the heater box
to the bottom of the cabinet. The heater box
might also be fastened at the top. In this case,
raise the top panel of the dryer and remove
MOUNTING
the screw that holds the heater box to the back
SRACKH.TS
of the cabinet. Disconnect the wires to the
■HEATER
thermostat and lift the heater box slightly.
BO*
Then remove it down and out from the back
of the cabinet.
ir
\ SAFETT
THERMOSTAT
TERMINALS
HEATINCj ELEMENT
TERMINALS
LEAP5
Step 3-13.
Replacing the heating element.
Remove the screw at the bottom of the
heater box and carefully slide out the
element. Look for cracked insulators or
broken and sagging coils. Install the new
element and remount the heater box in
the reverse order.
Step 3-14. Testing the heating coils.

If the dryer has heating coils mounted in a housing behind the drum,
unplug the dryer and raise the top panel. Locate the coils' three
terminals in the left rear of the cabinet. Label the wires and draw a
wire diagram. Disconnect the wires from the terminals. Set the volt-
ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. Touch one probe to the left (common)
terminal and the other probe to each of the other two terminals.
In each test, the needle should move to about 5 or 10 ohms, showing
continuity. To test if the element is shorted to ground, touch one probe
to the heater housing and the other probe to each of the terminals.
The needle should not move for any of these tests. If your results
are different, replace both coils with new ones.
OUTER. COIL
terminal
inner COIL
terminal^
COMMON TERMINAL
Clothes Dryers 53
Step 3-16.
Removing the drive belt.
Underneath the drum, push the idler pulley
toward the motor and remove the belt from
the motor pulley. Carefully lift the drum and
slide it out from the front of the cabinet.
IDLER pullev'
J
Step 3-17. Removing the retaining clip.

If the drum won't move, the shaft might be held by a retaining clip at
the rear of the drum. Remove the small access panel from the rear of
the cabinet. Loosen the grounding strap and move it out of the way.
Use needle-nose pliers to pry the retaining clip from the shaft.
GROUNDING
STRAP
Step 3-18. Removing the drum.

You should now be able to remove the drum
through the front of the cabinet. With the
drum removed, you should have access
to the heating coils located in the heater
housing behind the drum.
Clothes Dryers 55
Step 3-19. Removing the coils.

Look for breaks in the coils or insulators. Draw a wiring diagram
before removing the old coils. To remove the coils, use wire cutters
to cut the coils near the terminals. Gently remove the coils through
the insulators. The terminals are just threaded studs held in place by
nuts and washers. Use a small wrench to remove the nuts holding
the terminals to the heater housing. Keep the ceramic insulators,
but if the terminals are burned or corroded, install new ones.
INNER OUTER
COIL TERM1NAU
COIL TERMINAL
thermostat
-
CERAMIC
COMMON INSULATOR
TERMINAL
INNER
COU-
OUTER
COIL
Step 3-20. Installing new coils.

Hook the end of the new coil around the terminal. Install another
washer and nut so that the end of the coil is pressed tightly between
two washers. Now place the ceramic insulator back on the terminal and
mount the terminal in the hole on the heater housing. Install a terminal
for the inside coil in the middle hole and the terminal for the outside
coil in the right hand hole. Carefully thread the two coils clockwise
through the proper insulators. Now connect the two free ends around
the remaining terminal and install the terminal and insulators in the
remaining hole. Reassemble the dryer in the reverse order.
TERMINAL
Clothes Dryers 57
Step 3-21. Replacing drum drive belt.

Unplug the dryer. Depending on the dryer, you have to
either remove the rear panel or remove the toe panel and
raise the top panel of the dryer. Now remove the front panel.
CONTROLS
. . OOO
v vv
LINT
TRAP
PRUM
INTAKE
“DUCT
HEATING
ELEMENT
PRIN/E
"BELT TENSION MOTOR
SPRING « FAN
Step 3-22. Removing the belt.

Beneath the drum you should see the drive
DRUM
belt looped around the idler pulley and the
motor pulley. Note how it is looped around
the pulleys. Push the idler pulley toward
the motor and disconnect the drive belt
from the idler and motor pulleys.
MOTOR
PULLEY
Step 3-23. Installing a new belt.

Lift the drum slightly and slide the
old belt out the front of the cabinet.
Install the new belt with the groove
side down against the drum. Depending
on the type of dryer, reconnect the
drive belt under the idler pulley and
over the motor pulley, or over the idler
pulley and under the motor pulley,
according to how the old one was
looped. Now rotate the drum by hand
to make sure the belt is properly
installed. Reassemble the dryer.
CHAPTER FOUR
Refrigerators
A refrigerator is made up of a compressor, a condenser, an
J \ evaporator. and associated tubing and fans. Thermostats tell
JLthe different components when to operate. Normally, a fan
pulls air over the evaporator, the evaporator chills the air, and the cold
air is then pushed through ducts to cool the freezer and refrigerator
compartments. The temperature controls tell the compressor when to
operate. The refrigerator temperature control adjusts an air duct door
that partially blocks the air flow into the refrigerator compartment,
preventing the refrigerator compartment from getting as cold as the
freezer compartment.
When frost builds up on the coils of the evaporator, the defrost
cycle comes on, heating the coils to melt the frost. The water
evaporates or is drained away to the drain pan.
Always unplug the refrigerator before making any repairs. Then
wait about an hour before plugging it back in, to reduce the start-up
strain on the compressor.
If you are replacing a door gasket, youTl need to know the make
and model of the refrigerator. Many different types of door gaskets
are available, and your parts supply store will probably have to order
the one you need.
Tools & Materials

□ Vacuum cleaner □ Putty knife wrapped
□ Screwdriver with masking tape
□ Adjustable wrench □ Volt-ohmmeter or continuity tester
□ Small socket wrench □ Thermometer
and sockets
59
EVAFoRATol?
gVAPOttAToR fan
COIUS
00
PR16R-
Fiwreft CONDENSER
FAN
coMp«e$*oR
ptiAlN LICiHT
SWITCH
CONDENSER PE'P^'1' PAH
COILS -TIMER.
Refrigerators 61
Refrigerator doesn't run Power not reaching Make sure refrigerator is plugged in.
(light is out) refrigerator Check for tripped circuit breaker.
Refrigerator doesn't run Temperature control faulty Check temperature control.

(light is on) or in the OFF position
Overheating compressor Clean condenser coils.
Check condenser fan.
Defrost timer faulty or at Check defrost timer.
defrost setting
Compressor relay faulty Check compressor relay.
Compressor overload Check compressor overload
protector faulty protector.
Defective compressor Check compressor.
Refrigerator runs but Burned out bulb Replace bulb.

light is out
Defective door switch Check door switch.
Refrigerator runs but Temperature control set Adjust temperature control

doesn't cool too warm to lower setting.
Faulty temperature control Check temperature control.
Condenser coils covered Clean condenser coils.
with lint
Faulty door gasket Replace door gasket.
Evaporator fan faulty Check evaporator fan.
Evaporator coated with ice Defrost refrigerator.
Check defrost timer.
Refrigerator too cold Temperature control set Adjust temperature to higher

too low setting.
Temperature control faulty Check temperature control.
Refrigerator noisy Refrigerator not level Adjust leveling feet.
Drain rattling Reposition drain pan.
Condenser fan faulty Check condenser fan.

Step 4-1. Cleaning the condenser coils.

Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the
wall. Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment
to remove dust and accumulated lint from the coils on
the back of the refrigerator. Remove the grill from the
bottom front of the refrigerator, and vacuum the area
behind the grill to remove accumulated dust and lint.
"FLOOR- MOUNTED
COiNOeNSCR
COILS
Refrigerators 63
Step 4-2. Replacing a door gasket.

If the door gasket is brittle or has any cracks,
replace it. If it is not damaged, close the door
on a sheet of paper. You should feel tension
when you pull the paper out. If you don't feel
tension, the seal is not good—replace the gasket.
Soak the new gasket in warm water to soften it.
Then unplug the refrigerator and open the door.
At the top of the door, pull back the old gasket
to get to the retaining strip and screws. Use a
small socket wrench or screwdriver to remove
only the screws from the top edge of the door
and the top few screws down each side.
Remove the top section of the gasket and
install the new one in its place.
Step 4-3. Completing the job.

Install the gasket retaining strip and tighten the
screws. Now repeat the procedure on the remaining
three sides of the gasket, working one section at a
time. Do not remove all the screws at one time.
The door might warp out of shape.
Step 4-4.
Checking the light and door switch.
If the light does not come on when the door
is open, remove the old bulb and install a
new one with the same wattage. If the bulb
still does not light, check the door switch.
Step 4-5. Removing the door switch.

Unplug the refrigerator. Use a putty knife wrapped with a few turns
of masking tape to pry out the switch. Carefully pull out the switch
a few inches to get to the terminals. The switch might have one or
two pairs of terminals. Label the wires and draw a wiring diagram.
Now disconnect the wires from the terminals.
Refrigerators 65
switch-
Step 4-6. Testing the door switch.

Use a volt-ohmmeter set on the R x 1 scale or a
continuity tester to check for continuity. If the switch
has only two terminals, touch a probe to each terminal.
When the switch button is out, the needle should swing
to 0, showing continuity. Press the button in and the needle
should swing in the other direction, indicating no connection.
If the switch has four terminals, one pair of terminals should test
opposite the other pair. With the switch button out, one pair will
show continuity. With the switch button in, the other pair will show
continuity. If your switch tests differently, replace it with a new one.
Step 4-7.
Checking the temperature control.
Place a thermometer in the freezing compartment for a few minutes.
The temperature should be between 0 and 8 degrees F. Now check
the temperature in the refrigerator compartment. It should be
between 38 and 40 degrees F. If the temperature control fails to
produce the desired temperature, check the temperature control.
Step 4-8.
Removing the temperature control.
Unplug the refrigerator. If the control has a dial,
remove the dial, then the two screws holding the
control in place. Pull the control out just far enough
to get to the wires, being careful not to bend
the capillary (temperature-sensing) tube. If
the temperature control is behind a console,
remove the screws holding the console to
the wall of the refrigerator. The temperature
control will be attached to the console.
Step 4-9.
Testing the temperature control.
Now disconnect the two wires from
the terminals on the temperature control.
Using a volt-ohmmeter set on the Rxl scale
or a continuity tester, touch a probe to each
terminal of the control. When the control knob
is in the OFF position, the meter should not move.
With the control knob in the ON position or
any other setting, the meter should show
continuity (the needle should move).
Install a new temperature control
if the old one fails these tests.
Refrigerators 67
SENSING.
-J BULB
Step 4-10.
Replacing the temperature control.
Notice the location of the slender tube called
a capillary line. The temperature-sensing bulb
is at the end of the tube. The tube on the new
1 control must be installed in the same position.
2 Carefully remove the old control, install the
new one, and reconnect the wires.
3
A TEM PEfcATURE
5 CONTROL-
ENERCaT- SAVE1?
SWITCH
Step 4-11.
Testing the energy-saver switch.
If the temperature control has an energy-saver switch, disconnect the
two wires from the switch and check it for continuity by touching a
probe to each terminal. If the switch is on, the meter should move to 0.
The meter should not move when the switch is off. If the switch fails
the tests, install a new one and reconnect the wires.
Step 4-12.
Removing the evaporator cover.
To check the evaporator fan, first unplug
the refrigerator and remove any ice-making
equipment. Then remove the screws
holding the evaporator cover in place
and remove the cover.
EVAPORATOR
Cover -
Step 4-13.
Removing the insulation.
Beneath the cover you should find some
type of insulation or heat shield. Carefully
remove it from the compartment. You
should now have access to the fan.
Refrigerators 69
Step 4-14. Removing the evaporator fan.

Remove the screws from each side of the fan's
mounting bracket and carefully lift out the fan assembly.
Now disconnect the two wires from the fan motor.
Step 4-15. Testing the fan motor.

Set the volt-ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale and touch a probe
to each of the two terminals. The meter should read
about 150 ohms. If you get a higher reading or
no reading at all, install a new motor. __
If the blade does not spin freely,
install a new motor.
Step 4-16. Replacing the motor.

Notice which side of the fan blade
faces the front. Remove the fan blade
and the small bracket in front of the motor.
Install the new motor and replace the bracket.
Connect the fan blade next, making sure you get
the right side facing out. Reconnect the wires
to the motor and reinstall the fan assembly.
FAN
MOTOR
Step 4-17. Locating the defrost timer.

With the refrigerator unplugged, locate the timer.
It will probably be at the back of the refrigerator in
the compressor compartment, but it also could be
behind the bottom front grill. Remove the timer from
the refrigerator and disconnect the wiring plug.
DE.FROST
TltAE-R
Refrigerators 71
Step 4-18. Testing the defrost timer.

Set the volt-ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale
and touch one probe to the terminal that
was connected to the white wire in the plug.
Touch the other probe to each of the other
three terminals. Two of the terminals should
show continuity while one will not.
M ntu\K\
Step 4-19. Performing the second test.

Use a screwdriver to turn the timer until it clicks,
and repeat the test. Again, two terminals will show
continuity and one will not, but this time they will
be different terminals. If the timer fails either test,
replace it with a new one.
GROUND
Step 4-20. Replacing the defrost timer. WlRE-S
Use a screwdriver to remove the timer. Disconnect
any ground (green) wires, and unplug the wiring
plug from the timer. Reconnect the wiring plug to
the new timer and reconnect any ground wires.
Mount the new defrost timer to the refrigerator. TIMER
bACK OF REFRIGERATOR.
Step 4-21. Checking the condenser fan.

While the refrigerator is running, remove the
front grill and feel for a draft of warm air from
the condenser fan motor. If you don't feel
any air blowing, unplug the refrigerator
and move it away from the wall.
Remove any rear access panels.
Spin the fan blade by hand. If
you feel any resistance, the
shaft is binding and the
motor must be replaced.
Refrigerators 73
Step 4-22.
Testing the condenser fan motor.
Unplug the two wires to the terminals
on the fan motor. With the volt-ohmmeter
set on the R x 10 scale, touch a probe to
each of the two terminals on the fan motor.
The needle should read around 75 to 150
ohms. A very high reading or no reading
at all means the motor is faulty and needs
to be replaced.
Step 4-23. Testing for a short.

Now set the volt-ohmmeter to the R x IK
scale and touch one probe to any unpainted
metal part of the refrigerator. Touch the
other probe to each of the two terminals. If
the needle moves at all, replace the motor.
Step 4-24. Installing the new motor.

With the refrigerator unplugged and the wires disconnected
from the motor, disconnect the brackets that hold the motor in
place and remove the motor. Remove the fan blade from the old
motor and mount it on the new one. Mount the new motor in
the brackets and reconnect the wires to the motor terminals.
Step 4-25. Checking the compressor relay.

Unplug the refrigerator and move it away from the wall. Remove
any rear access panels. Locate the wires going into the compressor.
The connections might be protected by a cover held in place by
a spring clip. Remove the cover and you will see the relay and
overload protector. Some models might have a capacitor, which
looks like a small metal can with two terminals on one end.
Refrigerators 75
The capacitor is used to store a charge of electricity.

Discharge the capacitor by placing a flat-blade
screwdriver across the terminals. The relay is
simply a switch operated by an electromagnet.
It is plugged onto two of the three prongs, or
terminals, on the compressor. Unplug the relay
from the compressor terminals. If the relay has
the word TOP printed on it, hold that side up.
Step 4-26. Testing the relay.

Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. Touch one
probe to the terminal marked S, and touch the other
probe to the terminal marked M, then to the terminal
marked L. The needle should not move. Now touch
the probes to the terminals marked M and L. The
needle should move to 0, showing continuity. Next,
turn the relay upside down. You should hear a click.
Repeat the test with the volt-ohmmeter. The readings
should be the opposite of the first test. If your results
differ, install a new relay. If the relay tests good,
check the overload protector.
Step 4-27. Removing the overload protector.

You will see one wire plugged into a terminal on the overload protector
and another wire from the overload protector connected to the remaining
terminal on the compressor. Disconnect both of these wires. Now use
a screwdriver to carefully release the spring clip holding the overload
protector, and remove the overload protector from the compressor.
OVERLOAD
PROTECTOR
Step 4-28.
Testing the overload protector.
With the two wires disconnected, set the
volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. Touch a
probe to each terminal on the overload protector.
The needle should move to 0, showing continuity.
If not, replace the overload protector with a new one.
If the overload protector tests good, check the compressor.
Refrigerators 77
Step 4-29. Testing the compressor.

Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale.
Touch one probe to one of the prongs,
or terminals, and the other probe to the
other two terminals, one at a time. Repeat
this test three times to cover all possible
combinations. You should find continuity
(the needle moves to 0) between any two
of the three compressor terminals.
Step 4-30. Testing for a short.

Now set the volt-ohmmeter to the RxlK scale.
Touch one probe to the bare metal of the compressor.
Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in
turn. The needle should not move. If the needle does
move, indicating a connection with the metal frame,
for any of the three terminals, the compressor is
faulty and you should call for service.
CHAPTER FIVE
Ice Makers
"Y A Tater enters an ice maker through an inlet valve and flows
\/\l into the ice maker mold. The water is then frozen by the
V Vcold air in the freezer compartment. When the temperature
in the mold has dropped to around 10 or 15 degrees, a thermostat
starts a motor and the mold heater. The heater melts the ice slightly
from below the mold, and the motor slowly drives the ejector blades
clockwise to push the ice from the mold into the bin below. Next,
the shutoff arm rises and the ejector blades return to their original
position to start a new cycle. When the bin is full, the shutoff arm
rests on the accumulated ice and stops the next cycle.
ejector WATER INLET

ON/OFF BLADES tube
SWITCH
ICE-CUBE
WATER INLJET
VALVE switch shutoff
thermostat
78
Ice Makers 79
Tools & Materials

□ Screwdriver
□ Small socket wrench and sockets
□ Kitchen knife
□ Volt-ohmmeter or continuity tester
□ Thermometer
Ice maker doesn't make Water supply to ice maker Open water valve under sink or
ice shut off behind refrigerator.
Freezer compartment too Check temperature of freezing

warm compartment—it must be no
higher than 10° F.
ON/OFF or holding switch Check ON/OFF switch and

faulty holding switch.
Water inlet valve switch Check water inlet valve switch.

faulty
Motor faulty Check motor.
Ice maker doesn't stop Shutoff arm out of position Reposition shutoff arm.
making ice
ON/OFF switch faulty Check ON/OFF switch.
Water overflows from Ice maker not level Adjust refrigerator leveling feet.
ice maker
Water inlet valve switch Check water inlet valve switch.
faulty
Too much water delivered Adjust water adjustment screw.

to ice cube mold
Ice maker doesn't eject Motor faulty Check motor.

ice cubes
Holding switch faulty Check holding switch.

Step 5-1. Removing the ice maker.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove the ice bin.
Use a screwdriver or small socket wrench to remove
the screw from the bottom bracket of the ice maker.
Step 5-2. Removing the cover of the ice maker.

Remove the top two screws and unplug the ice maker from the
refrigerator wall. Use the edge of a kitchen knife to pry off the cover.
Ice Makers 81
MOUNTING MOUNTING ADJUSTING

f PLATE SCREW SCREW
Step 5-3. Looking for the gears.

Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged
and the ice maker is disconnected before
you continue. With the cover removed,
you should see two gears—a larger one,
about an inch and a half in diameter, and
a smaller one, which is the motor gear.
If you do not see the large gear, do not
remove the mounting plate. You need
professional service.
MOTOR MAIN LEVER THAT

GEAR GEAR CONTROLS SIZE
OF CUBES
thermostat
on/off
SWITCH
water
inlet
yAlve.
sw ITCH
HOLDING
Step 5-4. SWITCH
Removing the mounting plate.
If your unit has both gears, remove
the three screws holding the mounting
plate in place. With the plate removed, you
MOTOR
^MOUNTING
should have access to the ON/OFF switch, the ~ PLATE.
holding switch, and the water inlet valve switch
Step 5-5. Testing the ON/OFF and holding switches.

Label the wires and disconnect them from all three of the switches.
The ON/OFF and holding switches have three terminals, but the water
inlet valve switch has only two. Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rx 1 scale
or use a continuity tester. Touch one probe to the common terminal
located on the side of the ON/OFF switch and the other probe to each
of the two terminals on the end. The meter should
show continuity at one terminal and not at the
other. Press in the button on the switch and
repeat the test. The results should be the
opposite. If the switch fails either test,
replace it with a new one. Check the
holding switch the same way.
Step 5-6. Testing the water inlet valve switch.

Using a volt-ohmmeter set on the Rxl scale or a
continuity tester, touch one probe to each of the
two terminals. With the button out, the needle
should move to 0, showing continuity. With the
button in, the needle should not move. If not,
install a new water inlet valve switch. You will
notice that this switch has an insulating disk
between it and the mounting plate. Reinstall
this insulator when replacing the switch.
Ice Makers 83
Step 5-7. Checking the motor.

With the refrigerator unplugged, and
the ice maker and the mounting plate
removed, disconnect the wires to the
motor. Set the volt-ohmmeter to
the RxlO scale. Now touch a
probe to the bare end of each
wire. The needle should move to
about 500 ohms. If the needle does not
move, the motor is bad and needs to be
replaced. To replace the motor, simply remove
the screws holding the motor to the mounting plate. Install the new
motor by fitting the motor gear into the large gear on the mounting
plate, reinstalling the screws, and reconnecting the wires
THERMOSTAT
J
Step 5-8. Removing the thermostat.

The thermostat is held in place by a clamp
fastened by a screw. Remove the screw and
clamp holding the thermostat. Then remove the
thermostat. The thermostat will have at least two
wires, possibly three. One wire will be connected
to other wires by a wire nut. The other wire, or
wires, will have terminal connectors. Label and
disconnect the wires to the thermostat.
Step 5-9. Testing the thermostat.

Set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. If the thermostat has three wires,
touch one probe to the shorter of the two wires with terminal connectors.
Touch the other probe to each of the other two wires. The meter should
show continuity to one wire and not to the other. For the next test, the
thermostat must be chilled. If you have access to another freezer, place
the thermostat in that freezer for about 20 minutes; then repeat the test.
The results should be the opposite of those in the first test. If your
thermostat has only two wires, it should show continuity when cold, at
10 degrees F or below, and no continuity when warm. If the thermostat
fails the test, install a new one. Reconnect the wires and reassemble the
ice maker in reverse order.
Step 5-10. Disconnecting the water inlet valve.
Turn off the water supply valve, which you will
find either behind the refrigerator or under the
sink. Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away
from the wall. Disconnect both tubes from
the water inlet valve openings. Disconnect
the water inlet valve from the back of the
refrigerator. Now disconnect the wiring
plugs and any ground (green) wires.
Step 5-11. Testing the water inlet valve.

Set the volt-ohmmeter to the R x 10 scale and touch a probe
to each terminal. The needle should move to about 300 ohms.
If the needle doesn't move, install a new inlet valve. If the
needle moves, clean the filter on the inlet side of the valve.
Reconnect the wiring plugs and connect the ground wire.
Remount the valve on the back of the
refrigerator and reconnect the tubes
to the valve openings. Turn the water
supply valve back on and check for any leaks.
CHAPTER SIX
Dishwashers
typical cycle on a dishwasher begins when you close and latch

J \ the door, push a cycle selector button, and turn on the timer.
•A. Jk. The timer opens the water inlet valve, allowing hot water
to flow into the tub. Detergent released by the detergent dispenser
mixes with the hot water, which is further heated by a heating
element. The timer then turns on the motor attached to the pump.
The pump pushes the water through a spray arm that spins, spraying
the hot soapy water onto the dishes. When the timer reaches the end
of the wash or rinse cycle, the motor pumps the water out of the
dishwasher and into the house drain. With the tub empty, the heating
element dries the dishes as the timer reaches the OFF position,
completing the cycle.
The most common complaint about a dishwasher is that the
dishes are not getting clean. There are a number of possible causes.
The detergent dispenser might not be releasing the detergent, the
detergent might not be right for your type of water, the dishwasher
might not be getting enough water, or the water might not be hot
enough. Dishwashers are complicated machines, but most problems
can be repaired easily by the homeowner. The one area that should be
left to a professional is the pump and motor assembly. If the pump
seal is not properly installed, water can leak into the motor, creating
many more problems than you started with. Before beginning any
repairs, make sure the power is turned off. If you find that the parts
are inaccessible, call a professional.
86
Dishwashers 87
Tools & Materials

□ Screwdriver □ Adjustable wrench
□ Volt-ohmmeter or □ Shallow pan or towel
continuity tester □ Old toothbrush
□ Pliers □ Stiff wire
UPPER SPRAY
LOWER
SPRAY
water Asm
INLET
VALVE.
PLOAT
SWITCH
PUM (/MOTOR
heating element
TIMER
SELECTOR DOOR
SWITCH
LATCH
Dishwasher doesn't No power to dishwasher Check circuit breaker.
run
Door not latched or door Latch door. Check door switch.
switch faulty
Dishwasher doesn't fill Faulty float switch Check float switch.

or overfills with water
Faulty water inlet valve Check water inlet valve.
Faulty timer Check timer and timer motor.
Dishes don't get clean Spray arm clogged Clean holes in spray arm.
Spray arm not spinning Check spray arm for rotation.
Water temperature too low Adjust water heater setting.
Heating element faulty Check heating element.
Detergent dispenser faulty Check detergent dispenser.
Timer or selector switch Check timer and timer motor.
faulty Check selector switch.
Water doesn't drain Drain hose kinked Check drain hose.

Drain valve faulty Check drain valve.
Pump impeller clogged Call repair service.
Dishwasher leaks Door not closed tight Adjust door latch.

around door
Door gasket damaged Replace door gasket.
Dishwasher leaks from Water inlet valve Check water inlet connection.
bottom connection loose
Hose split Check hoses.

Broken spray arm Check spray arm.
Faulty pump seal Call for repair service.
Dishwashers 89
Step 6-1. Removing the door panel.
Step 6-2.
Unscrewing the control panel.
Now remove the screws around the
top inside edge of the door. These
screws hold the control panel in place.
Support the control panel with one
hand to keep it from falling.
Step 6-3. Removing the control panel.

Close the door and lower the control panel,
being careful not to damage or strain the wires.
Step 6-4. Gaining access to the controls.

You should now have access to the timer, door switch,
selector switch, wiring diagram, and detergent dispenser.
DOOR SWITCH
Dishwashers 91

Unplug the wires going to the timer motor.
Set a volt-ohmmeter on the Rxl scale.
Place one probe on one of the wires and
the other probe on the other wire. The
needle should move, showing continuity.
If not, the motor is faulty and the entire
timer will have to be replaced. If the motor
checks okay, check the timer.
TWER
Step 6-6. Testing the timer.

Disconnect the wiring plug from the timer terminals. Now consult the
wiring diagram on the back of the door panel. Set the volt-ohmmeter
to the Rxl scale and touch a probe to each terminal of the first cycle.
The needle should move to 0, showing continuity. Turn the timer
dial to the next step in the cycle. Touch the probes to the terminals
connected to that step in the cycle. Again, the needle should
show continuity. Continue turning the dial and checking
Step 6-7. Replacing the timer.

Remove the timer knob from the front of the panel.
The wiring plug and the motor wires should already
be disconnected. Remove the screws holding the timer
in place. Install the new timer, replace the knob,
and reconnect the wires and wiring plug.
Step 6-8. Checking the cycle selector switches.

With the power disconnected and the control panel removed,
set the volt-ohmmeter to the Rxl scale. Now disconnect the two
wires to the terminals of the first switch. Press that switch to the
ON position and connect the probes to the two terminals. The
needle should swing to 0, showing continuity. With the switch
off, the needle should swing in the other direction, indicating no
connection. If that switch checks okay, reconnect the two wires
to the terminals and go to the next switch. Repeat the steps until
you have tested all the switches. If any switch fails to show
continuity, replace that switch.
Dishwashers 93
Step 6-9. Replacing a cycle selector switch.

Remove the screws holding the switch bracket to the control
panel. Remove the push button from the faulty switch. Remove
the screws holding the switch in place. Install a new switch.
Replace the push button and reconnect the wires to the
terminals. Then reinstall the bracket on the control panel.
DOOR .SWITCH
Step 6-10. Checking the door switch.

With the power off and the control panel
removed, close and latch the door. Now
disconnect the two wires from the door
switch terminal. Set the volt-ohmmeter
on the R x 1 scale and touch a probe to
each of the terminals. The needle should
swing to 0, showing continuity. With the
door unlatched, the meter should indicate
no continuity. If the switch fails these
tests, install a new one.
Step 6-11. Installing the door switch.

With the wires disconnected, remove the screws
holding the switch to the door panel. Mount the new
one in the door panel. Connect the wires to the
terminal of the new switch.
('switch
LEVER
BRACKET
Step 6-12. Checking the detergent dispenser.

Work the detergent dispenser arm back and forth by hand
to make sure it doesn't stick. Replace any damaged parts.
Dishwashers 95
Step 6-13. Removing the lower front panel.

With the power to the dishwasher off, remove any screws
holding the lower front panel in place. Pull the panel down and
lift it away from the front of the machine. Now you should have
access to the water inlet valve, the drain valve, the pump and
motor assembly, the terminals to the heating element, and the
terminals to the float switch. The float switch probably is
positioned near the bottom of the tub and might be hard to see.
HEATING ELEMENT
WATER INLET
^ TERMINALS
VALVE.
PUMP/MOTOR
DRAIN VALVE
solenoid A5SE^BLY
Step 6-14. Testing the water inlet valve solenoid.

Remove the two wires going to the terminals on
the solenoid. Set the volt-ohmmeter on the
R x 1 scale and touch the probes to the terminals of
the valve. The needle should move, showing
continuity. If not, install a new water inlet valve.
Dishwashers 97
Step 6-15. Removing and replacing the water inlet valve.

Before removing the water inlet valve, shut off the hot water supply
valve under the sink. Place a shallow pan or an old towel under the
inlet valve to catch any spilled water. Use pliers to disconnect the hose
from the valve to the tub. Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the
water supply hose from the valve. With the wires disconnected, remove
the screws that hold the valve to the machine. If the old valve tested
okay, pry out the screen and clean it with an old toothbrush. Place the
screen back in the valve and reinstall the old valve. If the old valve
failed the test, install a new one. Reconnect the water line and the wires.
WATER-SUPPLY hose.
If the float has a cover, remove it. Now check the float to make sure
it moves up and down freely. Lift off the float and check for any caked
detergent. If the float is not damaged and moves freely, reinstall the float.
Step 6-17.
Testing the float switch.
With the lower panel removed, look at the
area directly below the float in the tub. You
should see two wires going to a switch.
This switch is the float switch. Disconnect
the two wires going to the terminals of the
float switch. Using a volt-ohmmeter set to
the R x 1 scale or a continuity tester, touch
the probes to the terminals of the switch.
The needle should show continuity. If not,
install a new switch. Remove the screws
holding the switch in place, install the
new switch, and reconnect the wires.
Dishwashers 99
Step 6-18. Checking for a drain valve.

With the lower panel removed, count the number of wires going
to the motor. If you see four wires, the motor is reversible and
does not have a drain valve. If you see only two or three wires,
the motor is nonreversible and should have a drain valve.
Step 6-19. Testing the drain valve solenoid.

Locate the drain valve near the pump and motor assembly.
Disconnect the two wires going to the terminals on the drain
valve solenoid. Set the volt-ohmmeter on the Rxl scale
and touch the probes to each of the two terminals.
The needle should move, showing continuity.
If not, install a new solenoid.
SOLENOID —
Step 6-20. Replacing the solenoid.

With the wires disconnected, remove the
screws holding the solenoid to the valve.
Disconnect any springs, install the new
solenoid, and reconnect the springs.
Mount the new solenoid on the valve
and reconnect the wires.
HEATING ELEMENT
TERMINAL
UJJ 1
II Step 6-21. Checking the heating element.
With the power turned off and the lower panel
removed, locate the two wires going to the
heating element. Disconnect the two wires
going to the heating element terminals. Set a
volt-ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale and touch
a probe to each of the two terminals. The
needle should move, showing continuity.
If not, install a new element.
Dishwashers 101
OUTER
COVER
Step 6-22.
Testing the heating element for a short.
If the heating element checks okay, slide
down one of the rubber covers, exposing
the outer cover of the heating element.
With one probe touching a terminal,
touch the other probe to the outer cover
of the element. The needle should not
move at all, indicating no connection.
If it does move, replace the heating
element with a new one.
TERMINAL
Step 6-23.
Removing the heating element.
With the wires disconnected, remove the
rubber terminal covers and unscrew the
locknuts that hold the element in place.
LOCKNUTS
Step 6-24. Installing a new element.

From inside the tub, remove the element and install
an exact replacement. Then reinstall the locknuts and
rubber terminal covers and reconnect the wires.
spray tower, make sure the top slides up and down freely.
Unscrew the spray tower or any plastic cover from the spray arm.
Dishwashers 103
Step 6-26.
Removing the spray arm.
Remove the screw holding the spray arm in place
and lift off the spray arm. Remove any strainers or
filter screens from the bottom of the tub.
Step 6-27. Cleaning the spray arm.

Unclog the holes on both sides of the spray arm with a stiff wire.
Next rinse the spray arm, strainer, and screen under running water.
Scrub the screen and strainer with an old toothbrush.
Reassemble the parts in the reverse order. Y»
Step 6-28. Replacing the door gasket.

Depending on the type of dishwasher, the gasket might be in the
tub opening or on the door. The gasket might be held in place with
screws or with clips that can be pried off with a screwdriver. Soak
the new gasket in warm water to remove any kinks. Remove the old
gasket and place the center of the new gasket at the center of the top
of the door. Fasten several inches of the gasket in place at the top of
the door. Working around the door a few inches at a time, continue
fastening the new gasket in place. Once the new gasket is in place,
make sure the door latch closes the door securely. Often the latch
can be repositioned by loosening the screws, adjusting the latch,
and then tightening the screws.
CHAPTER SEVEN
Electric
Ranges
E lectric ranges come in a variety of sizes and shapes, but they

all work in pretty much the same way. They operate on a
120/240-volt circuit. Typically, 120 volts are used for the light
and clock, 240 volts for the heating elements. However, some older
models might have heating elements made of two coils controlled by
a switch that applies either 120 or 240 volts to either or both of the
coils, depending on the heat setting. Newer ranges usually have
single-coil elements operated by a thermostatically controlled switch.
These switches smoothly regulate the temperature from low to high,
and at any point in between. Self-cleaning ovens use a cycle that
raises the temperature of the oven to about 900 degrees F. This high
temperature burns off any cooking residues from the oven walls. An
automatic safety door lock prevents the oven door from being opened
until the cleaning cycle ends and the oven temperature lowers to
about 300 degrees.
Before making any repairs, always turn off the power at the
service entrance panel. Let heating elements cool completely before
touching them. Always open and close the range's lift-up cook top
carefully to avoid straining any wires.
105
When making some of the tests, you need to refer to the wiring
diagram provided by the manufacturer. You should find it stuck on
the inside of the control or back panel, depending on the type of
range you have.
OVEN
VENT
broil
element
baking -
element
Electric Ranges 107
Tools & Materials

□ Steel wool □ Needle-nose pliers
□ Volt-ohmmeter □ Gloves and goggles, if necessary
or continuity tester □ Oven thermometer
□ Emery board □ 40-watt bulb
□ Screwdriver
Problem Probable cause Solutions

No elements heat; lights No power to range Check for tripped circuit
are out breaker.
One cooktop element Faulty element Check element.

doesn't heat
Element receptacle faulty Check element receptacle.
Burner switch faulty Check burner switch.
Oven doesn't heat Faulty oven element Check element.

Automatic timer improperly Reset timer to manual.
set
Faulty oven temperature Check oven temperature
control control.
Faulty oven selector switch Check oven selector switch.
Oven doesn't maintain Oven temperature control Check and recalibrate oven
set temperature improperly calibrated temperature control.
Oven light out Bulb burned out Replace bulb.

Faulty light switch Check light switch.
Step 7-1. Checking a top element.

First turn off the power to the range. Then lift the edge of the
element just enough to clear the drip pan. Pull the element
straight out. Use steel wool to polish any corroded terminals
on the element. Remove another element of the same size
that works properly, and plug the suspect element into the
receptacle of the working element. Restore power to the
range and turn on the burner. If the suspect element does
not heat now, replace it with a new one. If the element does
heat, check the element's terminal receptacle. If the range
does not have another element that is the same size, check
the suspect element with a volt-ohmmeter (Step 7-2).
Electric Ranges 109
Step 7-2.
Checking a burner element with a volt-ohmmeter.
With the element unplugged and the volt-ohmmeter
set on the R x 1 scale, touch a probe to each of the
two terminals of the element. The needle should
move, showing continuity.
Step 7-3. Testing the element's terminals.

If the heating element has two separate coils, it should have three
terminals—one common terminal connecting the two coils together
and two individual terminals on the other ends of the coils.
Touch one probe to the common terminal and the
other probe to each of the
other two terminals. In each
case the needle should swing,
indicating continuity. If not, replace
the heating element with a new one.
COMKNOrt
TERMINAL
Step 7-4.
Testing the element for a short.
If the element checks as good, touch one probe
one of the terminals and the other probe to the
outer metal cover of the element. The needle
should not move, indicating no continuity.
If the needle does move, the element is
shorted. Replace it with a new one.
Step 7-5. Checking the element receptacle.

With the power off and the element removed, lift
out the drip pan. Disconnect the receptacle from
the top of the stove and carefully pull it out for
inspection. Check the slots that the element plugs
into. If the slots are dirty, polish them carefully
with a thin fingernail emery board. If the slots are
charred or broken, install a new receptacle.
Electric Ranges 111
Step 7-6.
Replacing the receptacle.
In some receptacles, the wires are
connected by screws covered by an insulator.
Remove the insulator and loosen the screws to
disconnect the wires. In other receptacles, the wires
are connected by wire connectors. Use needle-nose pliers
to unplug these connectors from the terminals on the receptacle.
Connect the wires to the new receptacles and reinstall any insulators.
Remount the receptacle and install the drip pan.
bracket
4
Step 7-7.
Checking the oven element.
First turn off the power to the range.
Now remove the screws holding in any
front or rear brackets that support the
element. Remove the screws fastening
the element to the back wall of the oven.
Step 7-8. Removing the oven element.

Carefully pull the element out a few inches to expose
the wire connections. Disconnect the two wires from
the terminals. Remove the element.
WIRE.
TERMINAL'
Step 7-9. Testing the oven element.

Set the volt-ohmmeter on the R x 1 scale and
touch a probe to each of the two terminals.
The needle should move, showing continuity.
If not, install a new element.
Electric Ranges 113
Step 7-10.
Testing the oven element for a short.
If the element shows continuity, touch one
probe to one of the terminals and the other
probe to the metal cover of the element.
The needle should not move, indicating
no connection. If it does move, replace
the element with a new one.
Install the new element in the
reverse order, making sure all
brackets are securely mounted.
BACK PANEL Step 7-11.

Preparing to check the burner switches.
Disconnect the power to the range. If it is a
free-standing range, pull it away from the wall,
unplug it, and remove the back panel.
Step 7-13.
Removing the control panel's rear panel.
If you have a built-in range with the controls
mounted on the backsplash, spread an old
towel on top of the stove for protection.
Then remove the screws from each end cap,
tilt the backsplash forward, and remove the
rear panel. You should now have access to
the burner switches, the oven temperature
control, and the oven selector switch. You
should also notice the wiring diagram.
Electric Ranges 115
Step 7-14. Testing the burner switches.

Inspect each burner switch for visible damage, such as burned wire
connections or loose connectors. Replace any damaged switch. The
wires supplying power to the switch are connected to terminals marked
Ll and L2. Wires running to the burner element might be numbered
l and 2 or marked HI and H2 (see the wiring diagram). Disconnect the
wires marked Ll and L2 from the suspect switch. Set the volt-ohmmeter
to the Rxl scale. Touch one probe to the terminal marked Ll and the
other probe to each of the terminals connected to the wires leading
to the burner element. You do not have to disconnect the element
wires. As long as you have the other side of the switch (Ll and L2)
disconnected, you can test the switch. With the switch on, the needle
should move, indicating continuity. With the switch off, the needle
should not move, indicating no connection. Repeat the test with one
of the probes touching the terminal marked L2 and the other probe
touching each of the element wire terminals in turn. Repeat the test on
a burner switch that you know works properly, and compare the results.
If the readings don't match, replace the suspect switch with a new one.
Step 7-15.
Installing a new switch.
When installing the new switch, label
the wires and draw a simple wiring
diagram before disconnecting the
wires, or leave the wires connected
to the old switch and transfer them
one at a time to the new switch.
Step 7-16.
Checking the oven selector switch.
With the power disconnected and the control
panel removed, look at the wiring diagram
and locate the terminals for each setting
(bake, broil, time bake, etc.) on the
selector switch. You should see a
pair of terminals for each setting.
Disconnect one wire from each
pair of terminals. Use a continuity
tester or a volt-ohmmeter set to the
R x 1 scale and touch one probe to each
of the terminals in the pair. The needle on the
meter should swing to 0, showing continuity. Check each setting on
the switch. If any setting fails the test, install a new switch. To install
a new switch, label each wire and draw a simple wiring diagram.
Disconnect the wires and remove the old switch from its mounting.
Mount the new switch and reconnect the wires to the proper terminals.
Electric Ranges 117
Step 7-17. Testing the oven temperature control.

With the power turned off and control panel removed, use
a continuity tester or a volt-ohmmeter set on the R x 1 scale
to check the oven temperature control for continuity. If more
than two wires are connected to the control, refer to the
wiring diagram on the inside of the control panel or on the
back panel to determine which pair of terminals to test. Now
disconnect one wire from the pair of terminals you are testing,
turn the control switch to about 300 degrees F, and touch a
probe to each of the two terminals. If the needle fails to move,
indicating no continuity, install a new temperature control.
Step 7-18. Installing a new oven temperature control.

To replace the oven temperature control, first carefully unclip
the capillary tube from its supports in the oven and gently
push it through the rear wall. Caution: If this oven is a self-cleaning
model, wear rubber gloves and goggles—the tube is probably filled
with highly corrosive chemicals. If you happen to get any of these
chemicals on your skin, put the entire area under a steady flow of
running water immediately. Then seek medical help. With the wires
all labeled and disconnected, disconnect and remove the temperature
control and the capillary tube. Install a new temperature control and
connect the wires to the proper terminals. Next install the new
capillary tube, being careful not to bend or break it.
Electric Ranges 119
Step 7-19.
Checking the calibration of the oven temperature control.
Place an oven thermometer on a rack in the middle of the oven.
Turn the oven on and adjust the temperature to 350 degrees F.
Heat the oven about 20 minutes. Then check the thermometer.
Write down the temperature. Check the thermometer 3 more times
at 10-minute intervals, recording the temperature at each check.
The average of these readings should be within 25 degrees of the
350-degree setting to be normal. If your average is off by 50 degrees,
recalibrate the temperature control. If the average is off by more
than 50 degrees, replace the temperature control with a new one.
Step 7-20. Calibrating the oven temperature control.

To calibrate the oven temperature control on some ovens,
pull off the control knob and look on its back side.
Loosen any screws or clips and turn the movable disk
in the direction marked on the knob to raise or lower
the temperature. You first might have to loosen a
retaining screw that holds the disk in its set
position. Typically, one notch represents a
10-degree change in temperature. If moving the
disk more than two notches is required to adjust the
thermostat, install a new temperature control (Step 7-18)
Step 7-21. Calibrating the oven temperature control.

To calibrate the oven temperature control on other ocens,
pull off the control knob and locate the adjusting screw
inside the hollow shaft that fits into the knob. Turning the
screw clockwise lowers the temperature setting; turning
the screw counterclockwise raises it. Turn the screw very
slightly. If it requires more than about an eighth of a turn,
install a new temperature control (Step 7-18).
Electric Ranges 121
Step 7-22. Replacing the oven bulb.

Turn off the power to the range and remove the
glass shield covering the bulb. Using gloves or a
dry cloth, unscrew the bulb. Screw a 40-watt bulb
into the socket. Restore the power. If the bulb
lights, the old bulb was faulty. Remove the 40-watt
bulb and install an appliance bulb of the proper
size and wattage. Reinstall the shield. If the light
bulb wasn't the problem, check the light switch.
Step 7-23. Removing the light switch.

Turn off the power and open the oven door.
Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the switch
from the front of the oven.
Step 7-24. Testing the light switch.

Disconnect the wires from the switch's terminals. Use a continuity
tester or volt-ohmmeter set on the R x 1 scale to test the switch for
continuity. Touch a probe to each of the two terminals on the switch.
The needle should move, showing continuity. Now push in the switch
plunger. The needle should swing in the other direction, showing no
continuity. If your results differ, install a new switch. Connect the
wires to the new switch and press the switch back into the opening.
plunger
Glossary
capacitor A device used to store a charge of electricity.
circuit breaker
A safety switch installed in a circuit
that automatically interrupts the flow
of electricity if the current exceeds a
predetermined amount. Once tripped,
a circuit breaker can be reset manually.
compressor
A machine that compresses.
or reduces the volume of, air or gas
unummmiuuuumi
condenser
iiuininitniiYiiniimuD)
A device used to convert (an
gases or vapors to a liquid. iiiiirKTfi(iiiTinniiiii!iii
j)
- WrowfTfimTiTmTtntmr
123
continuity The state of having a continuous electrical path.
evaporator ■umnimnimuiiimmik
111 m m.'n i m unTTiTlD)
A device used to change GniiuiiiiiinimiimiiiiLnc
a liquid into vapor. m m m i n» ijjlu i rn nir)
‘inri 11 n n t u uni i uniTr
idler pulley
A pulley used to take the
slack out of a drive belt.
insulator
A nonconducting material.
ohm The unit for measuring electrical resistance.
relay
A switch operated
by an electromagnet
resistance That which opposes the flow of an

electrical current; measured in units called ohms.
Glossary 125
service entrance panel

rJL
— i
The main power cabinet containing the main

breaker and circuit breakers distributing o
electricity throughout the residence.
solenoid
A coil of wire that uses an electrical
current to create a magnetic field.
terminal
A point used to make
electrical connections.
thermostat
A device used to control temperatures
to a predetermined level.
volt-ohmmeter
A meter used for measuring
voltage and electrical
resistance.
Index
40-watt bulb, 107 D short, testing for, 101

defrost timer, 70-72 lower front panel,
A detergent dispenser, removal, 95
adjustable wrench, 3 dishwasher, 94 parts, 87, 95
dishwasher, 86-104 spray arm, 102-103
B control panel, 89-93 checking, 102
control access, 90 cleaning, 103
bulb, oven, 121
removal, 90 removal, 103
burner switches, preparing
unscrewing, 89 telescoping spray tower,
to check, 113 cycle selector switch, 102
burners, 109
92-93 timer motor, testing, 91
checking, 92 timer,
c replacing, 93 replacement, 92
clothes dryer, 39-58 detergent dispenser, 94 testing, 91
clothes washer (see also door gasket, 104 tools and materials, 88
washer), 19-38 door panel, removal, 89 water inlet valve, 96-97
compressor relay, 74-75 door switch, removing and
compressor, refrigerator, 77 checking, 93-94 replacing, 97
condenser coils, installation, 94 door gasket, dishwasher, 104
refrigerator, 62 drain valve, 99 door panel, dishwasher, 89
condenser fan, 72-74 drain valve solenoid, door switch, 47-48, 64,
continuity tester, 39, 59, 79, 99-100 93-94
88, 107 replacement, 100 dishwasher, 93-94
control panel testing, 99 dryer, 47-48
dishwasher, 89-93 float switch, testing, 98 refrigerator, 64
dryer, 42-46 float, checking, 98 drain valve solenoid,
range, 114 heating element, 100-102 dishwasher, 99-100
washer, 22-26 checking, 100 drain valve, dishwasher, 99
cycle selector switch, installation, 102 drive belt, washer, 35
dishwasher, 92-93 removal, 101 drum, dryer, 53-54
127
dryer, clothes, 39-58 G K

control panel, removal,
gasket knife, kitchen, 79
42
door, dishwasher, 104
controls, 42-46
refrigerator door, 63 L
gaining access, 42
water heater, 15
start switch, testing, 46 lid safety switch, washer,
gears, ice maker, 81
temperature selector, 28-29
gloves, 4, 107
testing, 45 light bulb
goggles, 107
timer, 43-44 40-watt, 107
testing motor, 44 oven, 121
testing of, 43-44
door switch, 47-48 H
gaining access, heaters, electric water, 1-18
M
type one, 47 heating coils, dryer, 55-56 motor, washer, 36-38
type two, 47 heating element, 14-15, mounting plate, ice maker,
testing, 48 50-51, 100-102 81
drum, 53-54 dishwasher, 100-102
drive belt,
installation, 58
dryer, 50-51
water heater, 14-15
o
oven element, 111-113
removal, 53 high-temperature cutoff,
removing, 112
replacing, 57-58 7-8
short, testing for, 113
removal, 54 replacement, 8
testing, 112
removal, preparing for, water heater, 7
overload protector,
53
refrigerator, 76
retaining clip, removal,
54
heater box, removal, 51 P
ice maker, 78-86
heating coils, 55-56 pressure relief valve,
cover removal, 80
installing, 56 installation, 18
gears, looking for, 81
removal of, 55 pipe wrench, 3
internal parts, 81
testing, 52 pliers, 21, 88
motor, 83
heating element, 50-51 needle-nose, 21, 39, 107
mounting plate, removal,
replacement, 51 pressure dome, 27
81
testing, 50 pressure relief valve, 17-18
on/off switch, 82
parts, 40 old, 17
holding, 82
thermostat, testing, 48-49 removal, 18
testing, 82
tools and materials, 39 pump, washer, 33-34
parts, 78
putty knife, 39, 59
removal, 80
E thermostat, 83-84
electric ranges, 105-122 removal, 83 R
electric water heaters, 1-18 testing, 84 range, 105-122
element, oven, 111-113 tools and materials, 79 burner, element, 108-109
emery board, 107 water inlet valve switch, checking, 109
energy-saver switch, 67 testing, 82 receptacle, checking,
evaporator cover, water inlet valve, 110
refrigerator, 68 disconnecting, 85 receptacle, replacing,
evaporator fan, 69-70 testing, 85 111
Index 129
short, testing for, 110 motor, 73-74 steel wool, 107

terminals, testing of, replacement, 74 strainers, 30
109 short, 73
top, 108 testing, 73
switches, burner testing, 72 T
preparing to check, defrost timer, 70-72 telescoping spray tower,
113 location, 70 102
testing, 115 replacement, 72 temperature control, 65-67,
control panel, test one, 71 117-120
rear panel, removing, test two, 71 calibration, 119
114 door gasket, installation, 118
removing, 114 replacement, 63 oven, 117-120
oven bulb, replacing, 121 door switch, 64-65 refrigerator, 65-67
oven control, calibration, removal, 64 thermometer, 59, 79
120 testing, 65 oven, 107
oven element, energy-saver switch, 67 thermostat, 2, 9-12, 48-49,
removing, 112 evaporator cover, 83-84
short, testing for, 113 removal, 68 bottom, 10
testing, 112 evaporator fan, 69-70 bottom, setting, 10
parts, 106 motor replacement, 70 dryer, 48-49
switch, light, 121-122 removal, 68 ice maker, 83-84
removal of, 121 testing motor, 69 installation, 12
testing of, 122 insulation, removal, 68 removal, 11
switches, light, checking, 64 top, 9
burner, testing of, 115 overload protector, 76 top, voltage testing, 9
installing new, 116 testing, 76 timer motor, dishwasher, 91
oven, checking, 116 removal, 76 timer
oven, temperature parts, 60 dishwasher, 91
control, testing of, 117 temperature control, washer, 23-24
temperature control, 65-67 tools
117-120 removal, 66 40-watt bulb, 107
calibration, 119 replacement, 67 continuity tester, 39, 59,
installation, 118 testing, 66 79, 88, 107
tools and materials, 107 tools and materials, 59 emery board, 107
top element, checking, relief valve, 2 gloves, 4, 107
108 reset button, water heater, goggles, 107
ranges, 105-122 6 kitchen knife, 79
electric, 105-122 pipe tape, 3
refrigerators, 59-77 pliers, 21, 88
compressor relay, 74-75 s needle-nose, 21, 39,
checking, 74-75 screwdriver, 3, 39, 59, 79, 107
testing, 75 88, 107 putty knife, 39, 59
short testing, 77 shallow pan or towel, 88 screwdriver, 3, 21, 39, 59,
compressor, testing, 77 socket wrench, 21 79, 88, 107
condenser coils, cleaning sockets, 21, 59, 79 shallow pan or towel, 88
of, 62 spray arm, dishwasher, sockets, 21, 59
condenser fan, 72-74 102-103 steel wool, 107
tools (cont.) continuity, testing for, 37 short, 14

thermometer, 59, 79 installation, 38 high-temperature cutoff, 7
oven, 107 parts, 36 replacement, 8
toothbrush, 88 removal, 37 illustration, 2
towel, 39 short, testing for, 36 power, checking for, 4-5
vacuum cleaner, 59 parts of, 20 pressure relief valve,
volt-ohmmeter, 3, 21, 39, pressure dome, 27 17-18
59, 79, 88, 107 pump, 33-34 installation, 18
wire cutter, 39 access to, 33 old, 17
wire, stiff, 88 hoses, disconnecting, 34 removal, 18
wrench, removal of, 34 relief valve, 2
adjustable, 3, 39, 59, 88 replacement, reset button, checking, 6
pipe, 3 preparation, 33 thermostat, 2, 9-12
small socket, 59, 79 replacement, 33-34 bottom, 10
socket, 16, 21 timer motor, testing, 24 setting, 10
toothbrush, 88 timer replacement, 23 installation, 12
towel, 39 timer testing, 23 removal, 11
tools and materials, 21 top, 9
water inlet valve, 30 voltage testing, 9
V
strainers, 30 tools and materials, 3
vacuum cleaner, 59
type one, 30-31 water inlet valve switch
volt-ohmmeter, 3, 21, 39,
type two, 32 ice maker, 82
59, 79, 88, 107
water level switch, 25-26 water inlet valve
air hose, 25 dishwasher, 96-97
w installation, 26 ice maker, 85
washer, 19-38 water temperature washer, 30-32
control panel, 22-26 switch, testing, 24 water level switch, 25-26
removal, 22 water heater, 1-18 wire cutter, 39
controls, access to, 22 draining, 15 wire, stiff, 88
drive belt, tightening, 35 element, installation, 16 wrench
lid safety switch, 28-29 gasket removal, 15 adjustable, 3, 39, 59, 88
checking, 28 getting started, 4 pipe, 3
testing, 29 heating elements, 14-15 small socket, 59, 79
motor, 36-38 checking, 14-15 socket, 16, 21
Shopping List for All Thumbs Guide
to Repairing Major Home Appliances
VOLT - OHMMETER.
□ Volt-ohmmeter
□ Continuity tester
□ Slip-joint pliers
FLA.T - 91AOE
□ Standard flat-blade screwdrivers

€
SCREWDRIVER
(1/8-/ 3/16-, V4-, 5/i6-inch tips)

□ Medium Phillips screwdriver
Phillip*
SCREWDRIVER.
□ Small Phillips screwdriver

□ Wire cutters WIRE CUTTERS
□ Adjustable wrench
dbJbsTAfcLe
WHENCM
□ Pipe wrench
□ Putty knife putty knife
□ Flashlight —AL A
□ Electrical tape
□ Masking tape
□ _
□ _
□ __
□ _I_
□ _
Refer to the lists at the beginning of the chapters MASK I WO

for the tools you need for individual projects. TAPE
i
Safety Tips
Before you start:
o Think safety.
o Work slowly and carefully.
o Read and understand all instructions.
o Gather all your tools and required materials.
o Make sure your test equipment is working properly.
o Make absolutely certain that no voltage is present when you are

working around water.
o Never work on any live circuit, fixture, or appliance.
o Turn off the power or unplug the appliance.
o Use your test equipment to confirm that the power is off.
o If you have any doubt that the power to a circuit is off, turn off the
main breaker.
o Make sure that no one will restore the power while you are
working. One way to do this is to tag the breaker with a notice
reading "Danger! Do not reset."
° Make sure you know the procedures to follow if a person comes in

contact with a live circuit. If someone has been shocked and is still
part of the live circuit, don't touch him or her with your bare
hands. First try to disconnect the power. If you cannot, use some
type of insulated device, such as a coat or broom, to remove the
victim from the circuit. Keep the victim warm while you call for
help. You might need to perform artificial respiration.
From All Thumbs Guide to Repairing Major Home Appliances by Robert W. Wood.
© 1992 by TAB Books, a division of McGraw-Flill, Inc.
BLOOMFIELD PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1 707 00 20 2012 0
Wood
643.6
All thumbs guide to repairing
maJ ° r , ^^^v- .^P^-^anc e s
10.00
■
7/93
b
BLOOMFIELD PUBLIC LIBRARY
90 BROAD ST. BLOOMFIELD, N. J. 07003
Tel. 201-429-9292
Please return all borrowed items on time so

that others will have the opportunity to use them.
Fines will be charged on overdue material.
Do not remove date card from pocket

' • '!
DON’T THROW GOOD MONEY

AWAY ON HOME
APPLIANCE REPAIRS
YOU CAN DO YOURSELF
^4f
Repairing Major Home Appliances can save
you hundreds of dollars in professional service
fees, not to mention hours or days of headaches
waiting for the repairman to show up. Robert W.
Wood tells you all about how the large electric
appliances in your home work and how you
can remedy many common problems that occur
through normal use. You’ll find all the detailed,
illustrated guidance you need to:
• Troubleshoot appliances for maximum

energy efficiency
• Replace worn washing machine belts and pumps
• Install new heating elements in dryers
and stoves
• Adjust thermostats, belts, and motors in
heating systems
• Repair refrigerators and air conditioners
A self-proclaimed “all-thumbs”
handyman, Robert W. Wood is a
retired electromechanical technician
and bestselling author of several home
repair and improvement books, including
these money-saving All Thumbs guides for
the do-it-yourselfer:
Home Wiring
Home Plumbing
Painting, Wallpapering, and Stenciling
0492
ISBN □-fl3Cb-E54lT-b
lllirJIHfllffill’Ili! 1! I
Si SiTiSfJii.isl
978083B6254S9
2016-03-10 10:0
NEW LAY-FLAT BINDING!

(See Guarantee page for more details.)

All Thumbs Guide To Repairing Major Home Appliances

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

All Thumbs Guide To Repairing Major Home Appliances

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

All Thumbs Guide To Repairing Major Home Appliances

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

GUIDE TO

© 1992 by TAB Books.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Acquisitions Editor: Kimberly Tabor

About the Binding

The lay-flat binding is designed to withstand constant use. Unlike

© 1992 by TAB Books.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Wood, Robert W., 1933-

Acquisitions Editor: Kimberly Tabor

About the Binding

The lay-flat binding is designed to withstand constant use. Unlike

A collection of books about do-it-yourself home repair and

D esigned for the average homeowner, this book addresses the

To use a continuity tester, first make sure that no voltage is

Tools & Materials

Problem Probable causes Solutions

Not enough hot water Low thermostat setting Adjust thermostat.

Heating element bad Check elements for continuity.

Scale inside tank; Drain tank until water runs clear.

Water too hot Thermostat set too high Adjust thermostat.

Thermostat failed Check thermostat; replace if necessary.

Insulation missing from Pack insulation tight around

Water leaks Heating element gasket Replace element gasket.

Relief valve opening Check or replace relief valve.

Step 1-1. Getting started.

Step 1-2. Checking for power.

Step 1-3. Checking the reset button.

Step 1-4. Checking the high-temperature cutoff.

Step 1-5. Replacing the high-temperature cutoff.

Step 1-6. Checking the top thermostat.

Step 1-7. Completing the test.

Step 1-10. Removing the thermostat.

Step 1-11. Installing a thermostat.

Step 1-12. Checking heating elements.

Step 1-13. Checking the element for a short.

(D^> ■fv JL.

Step 1-16. Installing a new element.

Step 1-17. Testing the pressure relief valve.

Step 1-18. Removing the old valve.

Step 1-19. Installing the new valve.

Most repairs can be made

Tools & Materials

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE CONTINUED.

Washer doesn't fill Water turned off Turn on faucet.

Water temperature Check water temperature switch.

Lid switch faulty Check lid switch.

Motor or transmission Check motor.

Water doesn't drain out Kinked drain hose Straighten hose.

Timer faulty Check timer.

Pump faulty Replace pump.

Washer leaks Loose or cracked hose Tighten or replace hoses.

Pump leaking Replace pump.

Washer vibrates Load unbalanced Redistribute clothes.

Step 2-3. Testing and replacing the timer.

To install the new timer,

Step 2-4. Testing the timer motor.

Step 2-7. Testing the water level switch.

Step 2-9. Installing a new water level switch.