Tsuen Wan

TGeneral
suen Wan Boulders

Situated on a hillside overlooking Tsuen Wan, these

boulders give some excellent technical problems (at nearly
all levels) on high friction tuff. The setting and quality
of the problems make the slightly arduous approach walk
well worthwhile.

Approach
The easiest approach via public transport is to take the
MTR to Tsuen Wan and then get a taxi to the end of
On Yat Street (ask for Tsuen Wai Fa Yuen). From the end
of the road, walk along a concrete footpath which heads
left until you reach a small bridge. This point can also be
reached by taking the 39M bus from Tsuen Wan to the TL
With all those spotters, Lau Kung Hing most
Adventist Hospital and walking up the concrete staircase definately isn't 'Billy No Mates' (V3).
opposite the hospital entrance. Photo: Stuart Millis
Once you’ve crossed the bridge turn right and continue up the hill to a catchwater (this point
can also be reached by car - limited parking). Continue up the concrete path for about 1/2km
until a path breaks right. Contour the hillside a short way on this path before continuing all the
way up the hill to small shelter at its top. Turning right on to a small dirt track leads to the Ha
Fa Shan Boulders (approx. 5 minutes away), whilst breaking left off the main track and following
a dirt path leads to all the other areas (all approx. 25 minutes away).

Lin Fa Shan Colin's Boulders

Radar Rocks

Ha Fa Shan

Shek Lung Kung

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A Brief History
The boulders at Tsuen Wan were discovered, in the climbing
sense of the word, around 1996 when Geoff Breach spotted the
Shek Lung Kung boulders from his flat window. Spurred on by a
panging for some quality bouldering, Geoff began his explorations
and established nearly all the lower grade classics at Shek Lung Kung,
Ha Fa Shan and Lin Fa Shan.
In the late 1990's he made the first edition of a bouldering guide to
the area and the spread of information resulted in a committed set of
ex-patriates making regular trips to the boulders. These trips largely
focused on the three developed sets of boulders and notable classic
problems put up included The Stretcher (V4), Jon's Traverse (V4),
Dave's Traverse (V5), Stretcher Direct (V6) and the V8 traverse at
Ha Fa Shan. It was also during this time, 1998/9, that Colin Spark
and Dave Hessledon explored the area of Colin's Boulders, although Dave Hessledon repeating his own
‘The Overlap’ (V3).
the only notable ascent made was of Sparkies Amazing Technicolour Photo: Geoff Breach Collection
Dream Roof (V5).
In 2000 Geoff made a second edition of his guide to the area and then, like many of the 'old guard',
left Hong Kong. Following his departure the boulders suffered from a period of neglect until the
summer of 2002 when Stuart Millis explored the hillsides between Ha Fa Shan and Lin Fa Shan
and discovered Radar Rocks, where he promptly established classic problems such as Supersonic
(V2) and Pockets of Resistance (V2). Development of this area continued throughout 2002 and
several fine new lines such as Crouching Tiger (V5) and Angels Wall (V7) were climbed. About
this time Rocky Lok also added two high quality problems at Shek Lung Kung, making the first
ascent of the old Geoff Breach project 'The Undercling' (V5) and quickly dispatching the arete
to its left to give Rocky Road (V6).
The winter season of 2003/2004 was probably the most significant
period since the intial development of the area. The arrival of Mitch
LeBlanc in the territory, fresh from the boulders of Canada and
the US, saw a change in attitude towards new problems. Where
previously attempts had mostly been made only on obvious lines,
things like sitting starts now became 'the norm'. Regular weekend
visits saw numerous new classics climbed at the established areas,
including Dislocator (V7) and the long standing project So High
(V9). Ha Fa Shan also saw renewed interest during this season with
Rocky and Angel Lok exploring the boulders lower down the hill and
adding Rocky's Traverse (V8) and the fiercely crimpy V Ten (V7).
It was during this period that Stuart and Mitch began re-exploring the
overgrown Colin's Boulders and, after a few weekends exploration,
notable classics such as Trainspotting (V6), Raging Bull (V7), Taipan
(V7) and Gaijin (V8) had been unearthed. In the spring of 2004
Mitch LeBlanc high up on Hong
Kong’s hardest ‘Seamless’ (V10). Mitch also managed to unstitch the sequence to Hong Kongs hardest
Photo: Stuart Millis problem, Seamless (V10).

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 Ha Fa Shan

H a Fa Shan

General
By far the quickest and easiest of the boulders to get
to, and with one of the more varied circuits, these
are the boulders most frequented by Hong Kong’s
climbers. Having said this, it’s very rare that you’ll
actually meet other climbers up there unless you’ve
already arranged to do so!

Approach
From the small shelter described in the general
approach section, break right and follow a dirt
path rightwards up the hillside. The Summit
Boulders are reached in about 5 minutes and make Ray Sun on a superb V3 at the Summit Boulders.
Photo: Stuart Millis
a convenient point to base yourself.

HaHa
Fa Fa
Shan
Shan

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Ha Fa Shan Map

Hillside Boulders
B
C Tip-Off Boulder
A
D
Summit Boulders B
A
Rocky’s Boulders

A Pocket Wall
D
Lone Tree Boulder
B C

Lower Boulders

Tsuen Wan (25 minutes)

Pauline Chow on ‘The Groove’ (V2), Summit Boulders. Photo: Stuart Millis

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 Ha Fa Shan

Summit Boulder
(1) V0 - 5a * Pull through the small overlap and continue
up the pockets above.
(2)VB - 4c * Follow the line of shallow pockets up the
slabby main face of the boulder.
(3) VB - 4b ** The delightful sharp arete.
(4) V1 ** Start with both hands in the thin flake and
pull up onto the wall above (without using the right hand
arete). Finish up the wall on small pockets.
(5) V4 * Aretenaphobia. The right hand arete of the
slightly overhanging face gives a testing problem. Stay true
to the arete for the top out.

(1) V4 * (sds) From pockets on the wall reach up to

small holds on the sloping shelf above.
(2) V4 * North of America (sds). Start on two
good pockets and launch upwards for good holds at the
lip. Mantle to finish.
(3) V2 *** From pockets on the far left hand side of the
boulder traverse rightwards along the lip, via an assortment
of pockets, jugs and crimps, to the large slopey hold on the
far right of the face. Mantleshelf this to the top. A problem
which defines the word Classic!

(1) V3 * The thin crack on the lefthand side of the face (1) V1 * The Rib. The rib on the left of the face.
is awkward yet strangely satisfying. (2) V2 ** The Groove. The prominant lefthand
(2) V1 ** The middle of the face (sds - V5). groove line has a tricky start and an exposed end.
(3) V2 * The righthand side of the face. Start at an (3) V3 *** Ramp and Wall. The ramp and wall to
undercut and use small pockets and slopey side pulls to the left of the arete. The crux is at the top when you’re a
make upwards progress. long way above the floor!
(4) V3 ** Billy No Mates. Starting left of ‘The Arete’
attack the narrow face right of Ramp and Wall.
(5) V1 *** The Arete. A gem of a problem up the
rounded arete.

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Hillside Boulders
(1) V4 * Dirty Slapper. Start on a poor side pull
with the right and a small sharp pocket for the left. Lift
your feet off the floor and then slap high and left for a
sloping ledge and good side pull. Rock over and mantle to
top out. A harder (V6) start is possible traversing in from
small crimps to the right.
(2) V2 ** The Crack. Follow the diagonal crack
line.
(3) V2 ** Nose Direct. Start on the good jugs and
pull up and right onto the nose above. Top out using
sloping holds.

(4) V8 ** Starting on the good jugs at the beginning

of Nose Direct, traverse right (keeping relatively low) on
tiny holds to join a diagonal line of small sharp holds and
slopers. Finish up these.
(5) V2 * Slapper. Start on the large undercut and climb
the wall above via some rather poor slopers.
(6) VB - 4c ** Flake and Mantle. The righthand
side of the face using the large flake.

(1) V4 *** Jon’s Traverse. An excellent problem.

Start on the righthand side of the boulder, at the arete,
and traverse left (feet just above the floor) to finish on
the slab.
(2) V4 ** Sick Puppy (sds). Start on two good crimps
left of the arete. Move right to a good sidepull on the arete
and climb straight up from this via the rounded arete and
pebbles. Stay true to the arete higher up for maximum
satisfaction.
(3) V4 * Nipple Grazer. Start at the good side pulls
approx. half way along Jon’s traverse. Climb straight up
from these. A dyno from these holds to the top has been
oft attempted but seldom latched!

(1) V5 *** Dave’s Traverse (sds). A full body

pump of a problem along the rounded boulder. From the
short overhanging arete on the left of the boulder fight
your way rightwards along the lip, pulling onto the slab
only when you can traverse no more. A slightly harder
variation (V6) is possible avoiding feet on the lower block
just past half way.

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 Ha Fa Shan

Rocky Lok on ‘Daves Traverse’’’’’’’ (V5), Ha Fa Shan. Photo: Stuart Millis

(1) V4 * Horror Arete. The striking tall arete yields (4) V3 ** Thin Crack Rib. The leftwards trending
via small sharp pockets and lay aways. thin crack on the right side of the wall provides a tenuous
(2) V2 * The Slab. The left-hand side of the slab. and technical line.
(3) V3 *** The Black Streak. The centre of the
slab, veering slightly right near the top. A slightly harder
variation is possible (V4) continuing directly up the slab
and finishing through the rounded bulge (avoiding the
crack to the right).

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The Lower Boulders

(1) VB - 4b * Start right of the overhang and follow the (5) VB - 4a * The thin crack above the large pocket.
faint crack in the slab above. (6) VB - 4b ** The leftward trending flake.
(2) VB - 4b ** Wall and Flake. Start up the pocketed (7) V2 The Groove. Climb the hideous thin groove
wall and finish up the slab and crack above. on the small boulder infront of the large wall.
(3) VB - 4a * The largest of the crack lines, finishing
up the righthand most flake.
(4) V0 - 5a ** Gully Slab. The slabby arete on the
righthand side of the gully.

(1) V2 The Bulge. From a standing start off the V-

shaped pocket and crimps, reach up and mantle the lip.
(1a) V3(sds) From a sitting start off a sharp sidepull and
small crimps reach up into the starting holds of the Bulge
and finish as for that problem.
(2) V1 Cave Roof Layback. Start on a sharp pocket
on the lip of the overhang and a good sidepull. Pull up and
mantle onto the slab above.
(2a) V6 (sds) The sitting start to the previous problem
gives a fierce and not particularly pleasent problem

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 Ha Fa Shan

(1) VB - 4a * Twin Tree Groove. The groove at The next three problems are located on the steep wall
the lefthand end of the wall. Finishing right through the right of the arete.
overhang adds some interest.
(2) VB - 4b *** Scooped Wall. The centre of (5) V0 - 4c *** The Money Shot. Climb the steep
the wall, going straight through the overhang on huge side of the arete on an assortment of pockets.
pockets. (6) V0 - 4c * Take a line up the centre of the wall on
(3) VB - 4a * The vague groove line at the righthand good but spaced pockets.
end of the wall. (7) VB - 4a Climb the flake and groove at the right end
(4) VB - 4a ** Slab Arete. The slabby arete at the of the wall.
righthand end of the wall.

(1) V3 *** Twelve Monkeys (sds). From a sitting

start on the good flake make powerful moves out left to gain
a poor hold near the arete and then a good jug on the lip.
(1a) V6 ** Van Halen (sds). Start on the good flake
as for Twelve Monkeys and finish on the good hold on the
lip, just miss out all the holds in between!

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Rocky's Boulder
(1) V4* Air Jet (sds) Start on low crimps and make
a rising traverse left and up via positive sidepulls and
pockets.
(2) V8 * Rocky's Traverse (sds). Start on the
triangle shaped hold at the left end of the boulder. Make
thin powerful moves right to the arete and continue around
this on sloping holds to finish where the face steepens up.

(1) V5 * Angels Traverse (sds). Start on the right of

the small overhanging face and traverse the sloping shelf.
(2) V7 * V Ten (sds). From small crimps low on the
wall, crank to the lip and mantle to finish.
(3) Project (sds) The sit start to the crack line.
(4) V7 * Slope Direct (sds). Left of the crack is a
horizontal sloper, start on this and finish directly above.
(5) V6 * Claw (sds). Sit beneath the left end of the
wall, realise how the problem got its name, and climb
straight up with assistance from the left arete.
(6) V5 * U Four (sds) The other side of the arete.

Lone Tree Boulder

(1) V3 * From two small pockets, reach up and right to a
sloping ledge. Finish directly above via the large pocket.
(2) VB - 4b ** The left arete of the slabby face.
(3) VB - 4a * Follow the slabby groove. The centre of
the slab can be climbed avoiding both the arete and the
groove at about V0 - 5a.
(4) V4 * Follow a line of small pockets and crimps above
the roof, avoiding both aretes.
(5) V4 (sds) ** A tricky sit start leads to delightful
climbing up the steep arete.

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 Ha Fa Shan

Pocket Wall

(1) V3 * Pacman. The right arete of the boulder yield The next three problems all start on Pacman and finish as
to determined pocket pulling. for Jet Pac. It is also possible to continue all of them past
(2) V2 ** Manic Miner. Roughly follow the line of Jet Pac to finish up Spectrum, adding about one grade to
the thin crack splitting the wall, using good pockets and each problem.
holds around it.
(6) V2 * The Rail. Climb the first few moves of Pac-
(3) V1 * Jet Pac * At the left end of the horizontal man before breaking out left along the highest of the three
breaks is a large flake line of questionable stability. Follow horizontal breakss.
this.
(7) V2 ** Breakdance. Start as for the previous prob-
(4) V2 ** Spectrum. The slabby arete at the righthand lem but follow the middle break line. More satisfying to
end of the wall. continue accross the whole wall and finish as for Spectrum
(5) V4 * The Barrel. Just beneath the main boulder (making the problem V3).
is a low roof with numerous sharp pockets in it. Crawl to (8) V5 ** Chi Wai's Traverse. From the starting
the back of this and follow the line of pockets out through holds of Pacman, follow a line of pockets and poor crimps
the steepest part. along the lowest ofthe three breaks. Finish either up Problem
3 or continue left to finish up Problem 4 (V6).

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Tip Off Boulder

(1) V3 - Sideshow Bob.
A relatively poor, in comparison to the other problems, line
up the thin pockets immediately left of the scooped wall,
finishing over the suspicously hollow flake.
(2) V5 *** Scoup de Grace.
A delightful problem that feels frustratingly desperate for
the grade until you’ve unlocked the sequence. Start directly
beneath the flaired hanging crack and somehow attain it.
(3) V4 ** The Riceman Commeth (sds).
Sit start at the arete and make a big move for the huge jug
on it’s right side. From here launch out left to good sidepulls
before continuing left along the slopey ramp to more big
moves out to the lip. Continue left along the hanging ramp
to a daunting rock over finish.

(4) V2 *** The Tip Off (sds).

The awesome arete from a sit start.
(5) V6 ** Little Women (sds).
Sit start at the arete and make a big move for the huge jug
on it’s right side. Using this and a flake out right, aim up
for the pocket above before making big moves right to a
pocket / flake combo. Finish up the wall and crack above.
(6) V6 *** Obe Wan.
Attain the flake / crimp combo on Little Women in a more
direct fashion from small crimps and flakes in the centre of
the wall. Finish up the wall / crack above.
(7) V7 ** Obe Wan Extension (sds).
Start at the big pocket low down on the right side of the
wall. Make thin, and slightly painfull moves left (hence only
two-stars) to reach the start holds on Obe Wan, which is
then followed to the top.
(8) Project - Klingon (sds). (9) V5 * Bellybutton (sds).
Start as for the previous problem but continue directly up Start beneath the right arete of the face with an undercut
the wall on small pockets. From a good pocket at two-thirds pocket for the left and pockets / sidepulls (depending on
height (current high point), slap out right to a small hanging what you can reach) for the right. Slap your way up the arete
crack and finish above this. using an assortment of pebbles and flakes.

Stuart Millis eyeing up the crack

on ‘Scoup de Grace’ (V5).
Photo: Marijn Mees

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