Breaking Strength and Elongation Properties of Polyester

Woven Fabrics on the Basis of Filament Fineness

Hatice Kübra Kaynak, PhD1, Osman Babaarslan, PhD2
1
Gaziantep University, Textile Engineering Department, Gaziantep TURKEY
2
Çukurova University, Textile Engineering Department, Adana TURKEY

Correspondence to:
Hatice Kubra Kaynak email: [email protected]

ABSTRACT
Woven fabrics produced from microfilament yarns by different constructional parameters [20]. The
are superior to conventional filament fabrics in rain desired strength property of a woven fabric for a
clothes, tents, parachutes, sails, wind-proof clothes, particular end use can be obtained by applying the
sleeping bags, filters, and surgical gowns due to their appropriate fabric construction such as weave type
distinguishing properties such as good filtration, and yarn sett. In addition, by changing these
barrier effect against weather conditions, and light parameters, a strength property can be optimized and
weight. Breaking strength and elongation are negative parameters can be offset. Many researchers
important and decisive parameters for these end uses studied the strength properties of polyester filament
since low strength properties shorten the useful life woven fabrics [12, 19, 21-26]. Apart from the
time as well disable the functionality of these previous studies, in this study the breaking strength
products. In this study, breaking strength and and elongation properties of polyester filament
elongation properties of microfilament woven fabrics woven fabrics are investigated on the basis of
are investigated in comparison to conventional filament fineness and weft sett. For this aim, the
filament fabrics. Three different weave types are used effects of filament fineness on breaking strength and
as 1/1 Plain, 3/2 Twill, and 4/1 Satin. Four different elongation are investigated for different weave types
weft setts and five different filament finenesses are and different weft sett values. ANOVA are conducted
applied for every weave type. In doing so, 60 woven to determine the statistical importance of weft sett
fabric samples are produced. Important influences of and filament fineness on breaking strength and
weft sett and filament fineness are observed on weft elongation properties for three different weave types.
direction breaking strength. Analysis of variance
(ANOVA) results are used to interpret the MATERIALS AND METHOD
experimental data. This study is focused on the effects of filament
fineness and weft sett on breaking strength and
INTRODUCTION elongation of 100% polyester filament woven fabrics.
Filament woven fabrics are used in many textiles Polyester microfilament textured yarns of 110 dtex
such as; casual wear, rain clothes, tents, parachutes, with 0.33, 0.57, and 0.76 dtex filament fineness and
sails, wind-proof clothes, sleeping bags, filters, and conventional polyester textured yarns of 110 dtex
surgical gowns. Fabrics produced from with 1.14 and 3.05 dtex filament fineness are chosen.
microfilaments are superior to conventional filament These yarns are used only in the weft direction. For
fabrics due to properties such as good filtration, an warp yarns, 83 dtex polyester yarn with 1.14 dtex
effective barrier against weather conditions, and light filament fineness is used. Yarn tenacity and
weight. A microfilament can be defined as a filament elongation of weft yarns are determined according to
finer than 1 dtex or 1 denier [1-8]. In the literature, ISO 2062: 2009 [27] and given in Table I.
there are some experimental studies which deal with
the performance properties of microfilament woven TABLE I. Strength and elongation properties of weft yarns.
fabrics [9-19]. Strength properties are decisive
Weft yarn filament fineness, dtex
parameters for filament fabric end uses because low
0.33 0.57 0.76 1.14 3.05
strength properties shorten the useful life time as well
Yarn tenacity,
disables the functionality of these products. It must cN/Tex
4.2 4.0 3.7 3.8 3.8
be considered that strength properties of woven Yarn breaking
23 25 19 22 18
fabrics is a complex phenomenon and can be affected elongation, %

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
Three different weave types of 1/1 Plain, 3/2 Twill, dimensional stability, a thermal fixation process is
and 4/1 Satin are chosen for this study. For each applied to samples at 195ºC with 25m/min process
weave type, four different weft sett values are applied speed before the desizing process. Structural
considering the weaveability limitations. The highest properties of sample fabrics after thermal fixation and
and the lowest weft sett values for the weave types desizing processes are determined according to ISO
are determined by production trials. Warp sett is 77 7211-2: 1984, ISO 7211-3: 1984, ISO 3801: 1977,
warps/cm for plain weave samples and 85 warps/cm and ISO 5084: 1996 [28-31] and the results are given
for twill and satin weave samples. In doing so, 60 in Table II.
woven fabric samples are produced. To obtain

TABLE II. Structural features of fabrics.

Weft yarn Weft sett, Fabric weight, Fabric thickness, Weft Warp
filament wefts/cm g/m² mm crimp, % crimp, %
fineness,
P T S P T S P T S P T S P T S
dtex
0.33 30 41 43 114 130 130 0.24 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.57 30 41 43 113 129 130 0.24 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.76 30 41 43 111 126 128 0.23 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
1.14 30 41 43 112 128 129 0.23 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
3.05 30 41 43 117 125 129 0.25 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.33 32 43 45 117 133 133 0.22 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.57 32 43 45 116 132 133 0.22 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.76 32 43 45 115 130 132 0.22 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
1.14 32 43 45 116 130 131 0.23 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
3.05 32 43 45 118 128 132 0.24 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.33 34 45 47 121 137 136 0.22 0.23 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.57 34 45 47 120 135 136 0.22 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.76 34 45 47 118 132 134 0.21 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
1.14 34 45 47 120 133 132 0.22 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
3.05 34 45 47 119 131 133 0.24 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.33 36 47 49 123 141 138 0.21 0.23 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.57 36 47 49 121 138 140 0.22 0.23 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
0.76 36 47 49 120 136 138 0.21 0.22 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
1.14 36 47 49 122 136 139 0.22 0.22 0.22 2 6 6 14 5 5
3.05 36 47 49 121 134 136 0.23 0.23 0.23 2 6 6 14 5 5
P:Plain, T:Twill, S:Satin

In this study, the breaking strength and elongation RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
properties of polyester filament woven fabrics are Breaking Strength
determined. All fabric samples are conditioned Filament fineness and weft sett are differentiated for
according to ISO 139 before testing and tests are only the weft direction. The breaking strength results
performed under standard conditions of 20±2ºC and are analyzed only for the weft direction. Weft
65±4% humidity [32]. Breaking strength and direction breaking strength results are given in
elongation properties are determined according to Figures 1, 2, and 3 for plain, twill, and satin weave
ISO 13934-1 [33]. Design-Expert (8.0.7.1) statistical types, respectively. Warp direction breaking strength
software is used to interpret the experimental data. A results are given in Table III.
full factorial design with two replicates at each
design point is constructed for these statistical
analyses. A full factorial design is chosen in order to
investigate the effect of a factor at different levels of
the other factor. This provides higher confidence for
the results. At the same time, a full factorial design
enables determination of interactions between
filament fineness and weft sett for this study.
ANOVA is performed to determine the significant
interactions between filament fineness, weft sett, and
breaking strength and elongation for all weave types.
FIGURE 1. Weft direction breaking strength of plain samples.

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
A consistent trend of having higher fabric breaking Nevertheless, for 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex, and 3.05 dtex
strength values for finer filaments is obvious from samples which have the same yarn strength value, the
Figure 1 for all weft sett values. It is a known fact higher fabric breaking strength values are seen for
that yarn strength is the foremost parameter on fabric finer filaments. There is nearly a 6% fabric breaking
breaking strength. If the yarn strength values are strength difference between the 0.76 dtex and 3.05
observed from Table I, it is seen that 0.33 dtex and dtex samples. Similarly as with plain samples, due to
0.57 dtex filament yarns have higher yarn strength increased total specific surface area of filaments in
values than that of other yarns. Therefore, the higher the yarn cross section, a higher cohesion force for
fabric breaking strength values are estimated for finer filaments occurs in the fabric structure during
these yarns. On the other hand, 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex, tensioning. Consequently, this provides a probable
and 3.05 dtex yarns have the same yarn strength reason for higher fabric breaking strength caused by
value whereas higher fabric breaking strength values finer filaments in the yarn cross-section. On the other
are obtained with finer filaments. 0.76 dtex samples hand, a regular increase is seen in weft direction
exhibit nearly 10% higher fabric breaking strength breaking strength with higher weft sett values due to
than 3.05 dtex samples. As the filament fineness a higher number of yarns and interlacings in the unit
decreases, the number of filaments in the yarn cross cell as observed in a similar manner with plain
section increases. Thus, the total specific surface area samples.
of filaments in the yarn cross section increases as the
filaments get finer. In other words, the 0.76 dtex
sample has a higher total specific surface area than
that of the 1.14 dtex sample and the 1.14 dtex sample
has higher specific surface area than that of the 3.05
dtex samples. This situation causes a higher cohesion
force for finer filaments in the fabric structure during
tensioning. Consequently, this provides a probable
reason for higher breaking strength values of finer
filaments for different weft sett values. Besides, an
increase is observed by increased weft sett values for
all filament fineness types. This is a probable result
of a higher number of yarns and interlacings in a unit
cell. The phenomenon was observed in a former FIGURE 3. Weft direction breaking strength of satin samples.
study done on polyester filament woven fabrics [22].
It is seen from Figure 3 that, the higher breaking
strength values are observed for samples with finer
filaments for all weft sett values. As seen for plain
and twill samples, the higher fabric breaking strength
values are observed for 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex
samples due to higher yarn strength. On the other
hand, for 0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex, and 3.05 dtex filament
fineness values, the higher fabric breaking strength
values are observed for finer filaments which have
similar yarn breaking strength. 0.76 dtex samples
exhibit nearly 5% higher fabric breaking strength
than 3.05 dtex samples. This is believed to be caused
FIGURE 2. Weft direction breaking strength of twill samples. by a higher total specific surface area and a higher
cohesion force for finer filaments in the fabric
Figure 2 exhibits the breaking strength of twill weave structure during tensioning. Also, a considerable
samples. Higher breaking strength values are seen for increase of fabric breaking strength is determined
finer filaments. Similarly as with plain weave with higher weft sett due to a higher number of yarns
samples, a part of this increase is a result of a higher and interlacings in the unit cell.
yarn strength value of the 0.33 and 0.57 dtex filament
yarns.

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
 TABLE III. Warp direction breaking strength (N). Breaking Elongation
Weft direction breaking elongation of plain, twill,
Weft sett Filament fineness, dtex
and satin weave samples are seen in Figures 4, 5, and
(wefts/cm) 0,33 0,57 0,76 1,14 3,05 6, respectively. Similarly as with breaking strength
results, breaking elongation values are illustrated
Plain

30 1171,8 1201,3 1231,1 1223,5 1165,9

32 1211,9 1219,5 1217,1 1214,0 1192,0 only for weft direction. Warp direction breaking
elongation values are also given in Table V.
34 1220,7 1191,4 1203,2 1178,9 1171,8
36 1150,0 1199,1 1177,4 1186,3 1193,1

Weft sett Filament fineness, dtex

(wefts/cm) 0,33 0,57 0,76 1,14 3,05
3/2 Twill

41 1372,6 1363,2 1380,6 1357,6 1374,2

43 1362,5 1372,4 1370,4 1377,5 1368,4
45 1359,8 1363,1 1368,2 1360,2 1361,0
47 1321,5 1375,8 1341,6 1376,7 1365,6

Weft sett Filament fineness, dtex

(wefts/cm) 0,33 0,57 0,76 1,14 3,05
4/1 Satin

43 1357,4 1358,4 1376,2 1353,1 1325,9

45 1369,6 1355,0 1351,7 1359,6 1360,7
47 1366,0 1349,0 1369,5 1368,7 1374,5 FIGURE 4. Weft direction breaking elongation of plain samples.
49 1330,4 1377,5 1372,9 1333,0 1352,6
Figure 4 shows the weft direction breaking
Warp direction breaking strength results are seen in elongation of plain weave samples. There is no
Table III. A consistent trend is not observed for warp regular effect of filament fineness on fabric breaking
direction breaking strength due to the fact that elongation. In addition, 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex
filament fineness and weft sett are differentiated for filament yarns have higher yarn breaking elongation
only weft direction. values whereas an increase in fabric breaking
elongation has not been determined for these
ANOVA results for breaking strength of samples are samples. Besides, the warp direction breaking
given in Table IV. According to ANOVA results, elongation values are considerably higher than those
factors which have a P value below 0.05 are of the weft direction. This is a probable result of
statistically significant on breaking strength with extremely high crimp values of warp direction in
95% confidence. Otherwise, P values above 0.05 plain weave samples. In general, as the amount of
indicates an insignificant factor. original crimp increases, the extent of the crimp
interchange region increases, thus increasing fabric
TABLE IV. P Values of ANOVA for breaking strength. elongation to failure [34]. On the other hand, a minor
Weave Factors Weft Warp decrease of breaking elongation is observed for
Type direction direction increasing weft sett values.
Filament fineness < 0.0001 0.1582
Plain
Weft sett < 0.0001 0.0255
Filament fineness < 0.0001 0.2471
Twill
Weft sett < 0.0001 0.1721
Filament fineness < 0.0001 0.1899
Satin
Weft sett < 0.0001 0.4532

It is seen from Table IV that, in the weft direction, the

filament fineness and weft sett have a statistically
significant effect on breaking strength contrary to the
warp direction.

FIGURE 5. Weft direction breaking elongation of twill samples.

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
Breaking elongation of twill weave samples are seen TABLE VI. P Values of ANOVA results for breaking elongation.
in Figure 5. A regular tendency of neither increase
Weave Weft Warp
nor decrease is observed due to filament fineness for Type
Factors
Direction Direction
twill weave samples. On the other hand 0.33 dtex and Filament fineness 0.0688 0.0376
Plain
0.57 dtex samples which have higher yarn breaking Weft sett 0.0468 0.5430
elongation values, do not exhibit higher fabric Filament fineness 0.0012 0.0035
Twill
Weft sett 0.6803 0.3346
breaking elongation values. In other words, the effect
Filament fineness 0.0006 0.4039
of yarn breaking elongation on fabric breaking Satin
Weft sett 0.6528 0.1592
elongation is not observed for twill weave samples.
Besides, the weft sett has no effect on breaking It is seen from Table VI that the effects of weft sett
elongation, contrary to plain samples. and filament fineness on fabric breaking elongation is
generally found to be statistically insignificant.

CONCLUSION
For all weave types, filament fineness and weft sett
have a considerable effect on weft direction breaking
strength. Higher fabric breaking strength results are
observed for higher weft sett and finer filaments in
fabric structure. With respect to filament fineness, a
part of this effect originates from higher yarn strength
values of 0.33 dtex and 0.57 dtex filament yarns.
Nevertheless, the effect of filament fineness on weft
direction breaking strength is observed for other
levels of filament fineness (0.76 dtex, 1.14 dtex and
FIGURE 6. Weft direction breaking elongation of satin samples.
3.05 dtex) which have the same yarn strength values.
0.76 dtex samples have 5-10% higher fabric breaking
strength values than those of 3.05 dtex samples for all
Breaking elongation of satin weave samples are seen
samples. This is a probable result of a higher
in Figure 6. There is no obvious effect of weft sett
cohesion force between filaments due to higher total
and filament fineness on fabric breaking elongation.
specific surface area of finer filaments in the yarn
In addition, the effect of yarn breaking elongation on
cross section. It is an important result to manage this
fabric breaking elongation is not observed, similar to
increase in fabric breaking strength with only
plain and twill samples.
changes in filament fineness, keeping other
TABLE V. Warp direction breaking elongation (%). parameters constant [35]. With respect to statistical
analysis, weft sett and filament fineness have a
Weft sett Filament fineness, dtex significant effect on weft direction breaking strength
(wefts/cm) 0.33 0.57 0.76 1.14 3.05 for all weave types. Besides, the contribution of weft
Plain

30 40.0 36.6 36.6 37.0 40.5 sett on breaking strength is higher than that of
32 38.4 37.6 37.2 37.0 40.4 filament fineness according to statistical analyses.
34 39.5 37.4 38.3 37.7 38.5
36 38.8 39.9 37.9 39.0 39.4
The filament fineness and weft sett have no
Weft sett Filament fineness, dtex
considerable effect on fabric breaking elongation.
(wefts/cm) 0.33 0.57 0.76 1.14 3.05
3/2 Twill

Also, yarn breaking elongation does not have a

41 33.5 31.2 30.0 29.6 31.8
significant effect on fabric breaking elongation.
43 33.1 32.0 29.7 30.2 31.6
45 34.0 30.1 29.2 29.4 32.6
There is a considerable difference between weft and
47 36.9 32.7 29.7 30.7 31.9 warp direction breaking elongation values of plain
Filament fineness, dtex weave types due to extremely higher crimp values of
Weft sett
(wefts/cm) 0.33 0.57 0.76 1.14 3.05 warp direction than weft direction in plain weave
4/1 Satin

43 28.9 28.7 30.4 28.3 30.2 samples.

45 29.8 28.3 28.4 29.1 30.3
47 31.4 29.3 30.5 28.7 30.7
49 30.3 30.0 30.6 28.5 30.3

ANOVA results for breaking elongation are given in

Table VI.

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015
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AUTHORS’ ADDRESSES
Hatice Kübra Kaynak, PhD
Gaziantep University
Textile Engineering Department
27310 Gaziantep
TURKEY

Osman Babaarslan, PhD

Çukurova University
Textile Engineering Department
01330 Adana
TURKEY

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Volume 10, Issue 4 – 2015