Eroad Installation Manual 2012 V1.3
Eroad Installation Manual 2012 V1.3
Eroad Installation Manual 2012 V1.3
Elocate
EhuboLite
Ehubo
Tubo
Driver ID
EROAD is a NZTA licensed agent and is authorised to collect Road User Charge (RUC) tax. As part of that agency
agreement NZTA has audit oversight on the key processes including those around the installation and swap outs of
the various EROAD units.
A good installation is essential to the success of the EROAD system. The installation process starts from when the
installation planner is sent out right through the physical install, completion and finally photographs and paperwork.
The automotive environment is harsh in terms of shock, vibration and corrosion, noise and voltage transients. These
factors will cause some aspect of the installation to fail over time if it is not performed to a very high standard.
Recalling a vehicle and correcting problems creates enormous cost and customer aggravation and can be avoided by
simply doing the job properly to start with.
Vehicle manufacturers go to great lengths to ensure their vehicles are reliable and the installation must follow the
same basic principles and practices.
This Installation Manual covers general installation practices and is applicable to all EROAD equipment installations.
Product-specific installation instructions are available on the EROAD Installer website www.eroadinstaller.co.nz.
EROAD installer accreditation is based on compliance with these guidelines and may be revoked if the standard of
work falls below them.
1.1 Audience
This guide should be read in its entirety by installers of EROAD equipment as well as managers and business owners
involved with installations. It covers the following sections:
Administration. This section covers various aspects of the administration side of the business including
pre-installation advice that is sent to installers to discuss with customers.
Health & Safety. Recommendations on what equipment installer staff should be supplied.
Technical background. This section explains the technology used by EROAD and how installation quality
will affect system operation. This will provide insight on how to plan the installation to be most effective.
Standard of work. This section defines the expected standard of workmanship and the correct methods to
use during installations.
Installation. This section deals with the installation itself and how the various components should be installed
and wired. This is backed up by more detailed information on the EROAD Installers website
The EROAD Installer website assists with the installation of EROAD products. It includes information relating to
vehicle wiring, sensor positions and EROAD parts and part numbers.
The content is continuously being updated as more information becomes available.
This should be the first place you check for any installation-specific information. You will need to register and be
approved by EROAD to get access to this information.
www.eroadinstaller.co.nz
The installation process covers everything from the initial paperwork, through health and safety, installation of
accessories, installation of hardware and, most importantly, dealing with the customer.
The installer is the EROAD representative who in most cases spends the largest amount of time with the customer
and their vehicles. It is the installer who creates the impression of EROAD that will dictate if we are judged as a
professional organisation or a bunch of cowboys (EROAD does not engage cowboys as installers!)
On going business and referrals are vital to EROAD’s continuing growth which in turn impacts the number of
installations and corresponding income for the EROAD installer network.
Installation and accessory planners are created by EROAD and forwarded to the nominated installer for
completion.
The installer liaises with the customer and returns the planner to EROAD with critical information completed.
o At this point a decision needs to be made as to whether the installer is to charge the customer direct
or to charge EROAD. This affects how accessories are charged out.
o Ideally the preference is for EROAD to be charged so the risk of the debt is with EROAD and not with
the installer.
Goods and accessories (where necessary) are dispatched as per the planner.
The installation is completed as per EROAD guidelines both for the vehicle and general auto electrical wiring
guidelines.
Vehicle is driven to allow for the calibration to occur.
Post-installation processes are completed:
o Customer is handed RUCHO form.
o Photographs taken and sent to EROAD.
o Installation Certificate is completed and sent to EROAD.
Installer invoices EROAD/ customer as per installation charge price list. The up-to-date list is available on the
EROAD Installer website www.eroadinstaller.co.nz.
The installation and accessory planners are generated from the sales documentation. The planners are to be
completed by the installer and may in some cases be completed by the dealer.
EROAD will send an email header with the installation and accessory planners attached. The email will indicate what
the working day lead time is to deliver the units to the installer once the planner is returned.
If you do require further parts for the installation, please download an accessory order form from
www.eroadinstaller.co.nz, complete it, and send to [email protected].
When the EROAD unit is sent to you it will also come with several documents including
Installation certificate
RUCHO information slip
EROAD unit installation instructions
As part of the Agency Agreement EROAD holds with NZTA there is a requirement for EROAD to hold details of all
installations so they can be audited at a later date if required.
Accordingly the following administrative tasks do need to be completed post-installation. EROAD may withhold
payment may be held we do not receive this information.
2.2.2.1 Photographs
Photos are to be taken and emailed to [email protected]. The email subject line must include the customer name
and the vehicle registration. The photos to be 100kb to 300kb in size and must include as a minimum:
Tubo - Photographs
First photo to be of number plate (this allows easy identification of following photos)
Damage – any damage seen during the pre-installation check
GPS antenna siting (Tubo installation) (stand 3 metres back)
Speed sensor connection – heat shrink and cable ties (Tubo installation)
Siting of Tubo and Tubo battery box (stand 3 metres back)
Crimp connections within Tubo and Tubo battery box (one photo of each opened box)
Photo of cables coming from grommets under the Tubo and Tubo battery box (Tubo installation)
Calibrated** EROAD Ebox
If hole drilled through chassis web,– photo of hole position in relation to Tubo etc
Please also take photos of anything that should be included on the www.eroadinstaller.co.nz website for
future reference.
** If the unit cannot be calibrated then a photo of the install screen must be taken instead.
##
Does not apply to Elocates
Whereever possible installers will be kept informed on any changes to current installation practices, but please always
glance through the installation instructions to ensure you are up to date
When the physical installation is complete the vehicle needs to be driven to allow the Ebox to be calibrated,
at a constant speed (above 50km/h and no more than 90km/h).
Depending on the cell and GPS coverage the average distance required to be travelled is 2 – 5km.
If there are any issues with the calibration please call EROAD Support.
There will be situations where the vehicle cannot be driven. This is acceptable – a note will be required on the
installation certificate as to why it could not be calibrated.
Once the calibration is complete the following grid indicates what the Ebox status lights mean:
Product
Active Ehubo / Ehubo Lite / Tubo (Connected) Tubo - Disconnected
green: on green: blinking (1s on 1s off)
No Tamper
Active- Ign On or Movement blue: off blue: off
before Sleep Mode green: on green: blinking (1s on 1s off)
Tamper
blue: 1s on, 1s off blue: 1s on, 1s off
green: on green: blinking (5ms on 1s off)
No Tamper
Sleep Mode (15 Min after no blue: off blue: off
movement and ign off or
Trailer stationary for 15 min) green: on green: off
Tamper
blue: 1s on, 1s off blue: 5ms on, 1s off
green: off green: off
No Supply or Tubo battery flat
blue: 5ms on, 10s off blue: 5ms on, 10s off
Label Colour
Power Green
Status Blue
I Orange (Not Used - will flash before installed State)
II Orange (Not Used - will flash before installed State)
If no one is available, ensure that you leave it over the vehicle instrument panel and take a photo as part of the photos
you are taking for the installation.
As per the signed installer agreement there is an expectation that warranties will be provided by any installer for
workmanship and accessories when installing EROAD equipment.
In the event that a third party has to be engaged to complete the remedial work, an EROAD ‘internal installer labour
rate’ will be used, the details of which can be found on the EROAD Installer website www.eroadinstaller.co.nz.
EROAD has a schedule of charge-out rates for installations completed. They can be found on the EROAD Installer
website www.eroadinstaller.co.nz.
Any variations in the charge-out rates must be brought to the attention of the EROAD Service Delivery team before
the work commences.
Invoices for installations are to be submitted as soon after the physical installation as possible. In most cases there is
an expectation that EROAD is charged for the work and not the customer. This ensures that the risk of the debt lies
with EROAD and not the installer.
Please ensure that the following details are contained within the invoice:
One invoice per vehicle.
The purchase order used is the vehicle registration.
The “RUC’ Job number must be shown. This can be found at the top of the Installation Certificate:
If the customer already has a pre-existing account or relationship with the installer the installation can be charged
direct to the customer using the EROAD charge-out rates as per paragraph 2.4 above.
Invoices for remedial work require key pieces of information to ensure the correct party is charged for the work
completed.
No work can be approved for payment unless an EROAD case number has been issued and is included on the
invoice
Please ensure that the following details are contained within the invoice:
Request for remedial work can come from several different sources:
Customer initiated – installer contacts EROAD Support to obtain an EROAD case number (this must be
obtained). EROAD Support – 0800 437 623 – Option 2
EROAD Support initiated. EROAD Support will contact the installer in the event that a fault has been detected
that will require further investigation or in extreme circumstances the swap-out of the Ebox will be required.
There will be those situations (after hours) where obtaining a case number may not be possible. When this does occur
please proceed with the remedial work, but contact EROAD Support as soon as possible for a case number. At that
stage explain what work has been conducted and why.
Whereever possible EROAD Support will give direction in terms of the suspected fault and possible causes.
It is expected that the installer will carry out best practice in terms of rectifying the fault by appropriate inspection of the
cabling/ fuses/ sensors etc to aid the correct diagnosis.
When the work is completed the installer must immediately contact EROAD Support so any faults can be reset.
In instances where an Ebox must be swapped out, EROAD will send out a unit along with a ‘Returned Item Request”
form (see Sect 2.6.4).
The lower section of the form must be completed by the installer and returned along with the old Ebox.
These are to be returned as quickly as possible to EROAD Operations.
In the event of a product failing within the warranty period, please return it to EROAD for warranty processing.
EROAD recommends that each technician have readily available to them the following health and safety equipment:
Safety boots
Appropriate Hi Viz and Safety clothing
Appropriate safety glasses
Appropriate ear protection
Vehicle first aid kit and fire extinguisher
Road cones as required to indicate working around a stationary vehicle
Orange flashing light for transiting restricted areas
Knee pads for comfort/protection when kneeling on stony or rough ground.
When installing into a powered vehicle ensure the keys are removed from the ignition and if possible placed
in ‘your pocket’. This will ensure the vehicle cannot be moved when you are working underneath it.
Dangerous Goods vehicles do require a higher level of safety – see section 6.5.4.
4 Technical Background
24 to 32 satellites circle the earth about twice a day each at a height of about 20,000km above the earth’s surface.
They follow different paths to effectively cover the earth’s surface. They each transmit a unique signal containing
timing information and information about their position in space that is received by the GPS receiver in the Ehubo. The
time taken for each received signal to reach the receiver is used to calculate the receiver’s position.
Every antenna has a radiation pattern (beam shape) that can be thought of in terms of a headlight. The antenna can
“see” signals in the beam, but cannot “see” those outside it, just as we can only see objects in the light beam of a
headlight.
Electrical noise is always a problem for the sensitive GPS receiver. All major sources of electrical noise are man-made
and originate from the earth, so it suits the receiver to have the antenna beam pointed at the satellites and away from
the surface of the earth. A GPS antenna that is pointed horizontally will have a significantly degraded reception of the
satellite signals, and also pick up a lot more noise which reduces the receiver sensitivity.
The maximum sensitivity beamwidth of a typical GPS patch antenna of the type used by EROAD is about 65° as
shown in GPS Antenna beamwidth.
The antenna may appear to work in orientations other than vertical, but performance will be degraded and it
may not work when different satellites are overhead at a different time of the day.
Wire size must always be rated to carry the maximum current of the fuse it is protected by without excess heat
generation. Many tables are published showing maximum current for a particular wire gauge, but most are based on a
specific temperature rise, not voltage dropped over the wire length. We are more interested in what the voltage will be
at the end of the wire to ensure the product will still have enough voltage to operate.
The voltage dropped in the wire follows Ohm’s law V=I x R. The voltage “lost” in the wire depends on the current (I) in
the wire and the resistance (R) of the wire. The thinner the wire, the higher the resistance and the higher the voltage
drop in the wire.
Wire gauge (size or cross-section area) is chosen so that there is a maximum of 0.5V lost in the wire for a specific
current and length. The following table provides guidance on wire gauge selection. Remember that for power supply
wiring, the total wire length must be taken into account as there will be an equal voltage drop in both the supply
(positive) and return (negative) wires. This means that the voltage seen by the unit will be 1V less than the supply
voltage
Do not use the following table based on maximum fuse ratings. It should be used based on actual operating current
drawn by the unit to be powered.
The Tubo draws 1.7A at 12.7V (use 3A fuse in the table for simplicity) maximum when charging its internal back-up
battery. For example, using the table, if the total distance is 20m (19m is the closest number in the table) from supply
connection point to Tubo we can see that 16AWG wire is required.
The Ehubo draws 300mA maximum, but can draw higher current very briefly when sending GPRS messages. The
maximum current consumed by the Ehubo is assumed to be 1A for wire size calculations.
A simplified table for the required wire size for positive and negative supply based on length
is given below:
Inductive sensors are used as wheel speed sensors or gearbox-mounted speed sensors. They usually have two
wires, although some have only one. If only one wire is present, the other is connected to ground (chassis negative) at
the sensor. They do not require power.
They are made up of a coil of very fine wire, usually with a resistance of 1 kΩ to 3 kΩ, and a permanent magnet.
When ferrous metal is moved past the tip of the sensor, the magnetic field is bent through the coil and this generates a
voltage pulse. If they are placed close enough to a rotating gear, sprocket or punched metal wheel (Pole-wheel), they
will produce a series of pulses that correspond to the gear teeth.
These sensors typically need to be less than 0.5mm from the rotating wheel and will only produce a voltage of about
100mV when the wheel is moving slowly.
A Speed Signal Amplifier, part number MSE000040D-G, is available from EROAD to convert the low voltage signal to
a 7V square wave (digital signal) to be used as a stable speed input to the Ehubo or Tubo. The amplifier will also
reject any electrical noise picked up from the vehicle electrical system by both sensor wires provided twisted pair wire
is used.
The very small voltages generated by the sensor mean that there is a good chance electrical noise picked up by the
wiring will interfere with it.
To prevent interference, twisted pair wiring must be used from the sensor to the amplifier or EHubo. The twists
in the wiring ensure that any noise that gets into both wires at the same time (common mode noise) will be cancelled
out.
The screenshot below shows a typical signal from an inductive sensor, along with the corresponding amplified output:
Measuring the resistance of the sensor in or out of circuit, you should get the correct resistance reading as stated
below. You should get a very high resistance between each sensor lead and chassis (ground), if it is low or very close
to the sensor resistance you may have a short on the line to chassis (ground).
If you put your DMM on AC and connect it to the sensor connections, by moving a metal object close to the sensor
you will see an increase in AC voltage. (Keep the metal object moving from side to side. If you keep it stationary the
AC voltage generated by the sensor will fall away)
If you have the trailer wheel lifted and rotate the wheel you will be able to measure the AC voltage on your DMM
generated by the sensor between 0.1Vac to 0.4Vac across the sensor when the wheel is given a spin by hand. If you
have a frequency input on your DMM you will be able to measure the frequency generated. Poll wheels have varying
teeth counts, normally about 180 – 200 teeth per poll wheel.
NOTE: At slow speeds the speed sensors have a low output amplitude and as the speed increases so does the
amplitude.
The speed pulse amplifiers are used on vehicles where the speed pulse output is very low < 300 mV p-p. The majority
of the amplifiers are used on SCANIA trucks manufactured later than 2003.
The Amplifier will amplify the low level analogue signal to a 7.5V digital signal and needs to be connected within
300mm to the sensor output.
Connection information for the speed pulse amplifier will be supplied with the unit.
Amplifier being fitted on a truck must be positioned within 300mm of where the speed sensor signal is
being taken from.
Open amplifier enclosure cover.
Using fork/ split ring crimp terminals, connect the amplifier as shown in the wiring diagrams. If a single wire
sensor is used, the negative sensor input must be connected to GND.
Screw the enclosure lid down and tighten the cable glands to apply strain relief to the cables.
To assist with installation, the red LED will flash when sensing pulses from the speed sensor. It may remain
on or off when no movement is detected.
The enclosure is not sealed and must be protected from water ingress.
If only a cable-driven speedometer is available, a speedo cable sensor can be used to generate an electrical speed
signal. This device is connected between the gearbox and speedometer drive cable, and is available from EROAD.
Some speedometer cable sensors have an output termed “Open Collector”. This type of sensor output can only pull to
ground and may need a pull-up resistor between the output and positive to pull it up to supply (i.e. older gear box
sensor RIS-8PT MSE000064A). The instructions provided with the sensor will indicate whether a pull-up resistor is
required or not.
The open-collector output can be thought of as a switch that is open when the sensor is not triggered, and closed as
the sensor triggers. When the “switch” is open, the signal, or pulse, wire is pulled up to the supply voltage. When the
sensor triggers, the “switch” will close and the signal wire will be pulled to ground (GND), or 0V. In reality, the voltage
may be anywhere between 0V and 1.5V when the sensor triggers.
All mechanical speed sensors supplied by EROAD will be supplied with a voltage regulator. These regulators have
two functions:
Reduce the vehicle supply voltage to 7.2V on all vehicles (12V or 24V).
Assist in the supplying of a good reference source to the sensor that won’t be affected by the vehicle’s
electrics (voltage variations when cranking or sub-standard alternator performance).
Hall-effect sensors like the speedometer cable sensor, typically have three wires, positive, negative and output. Some
types need a magnet to be attached to the rotating part it is sensing, but some include the magnet in the sensor and
sense the change in magnetic field when a ferrous metal is brought near it.
A hall-effect sensor already has an amplifier built in, so the output is digital and can connect directly to the Ehubo.
A hall-effect sensor is likely to have an open-collector output, so a pull-up resistor to supply will be required on the
output wire. The value of the resistor is dependent on the maximum output current of the hall-effect sensor and will be
different for different sensor types. The manufacturer’s recommendations for resistor value must be followed. Note
that the resistor value will change depending on the supply voltage.
Open Collector
It is important to note that vehicle OEM speed sensors are not always adequate for the EROAD system.
Some gearbox sensors do not output a signal at low speeds at all. This is not an issue for the truck itself as some
speedometers only display speeds above 10km/h or 20km/h. It will cause problems for the EROAD installation
however.
Also, some trucks have inductive sensors in the gearbox, connected directly to the speedometer with normal wires in
the wiring harness. The signal on these wires is very small at low speeds, so an EROAD amplifier would typically be
connected.
If twisted pair wiring is not used, as in the paragraph above, any noise from fan motors etc. will be amplified
and treated as a valid speed signal. This situation must be avoided.
The best and quickest way to determine if a vehicle speed signal is suitable is to measure it with a hand-held
oscilloscope. This will show the amplitude (voltage) of the signal any noise that may be present. This test must always
be done at low speed as that is generally when the signal is smallest. It is essential to also switch on ignition and other
circuits such as fans and windscreen wipers to determine if they cause noise on the speed signal.
More detail on speed signal options is available in sections 6.4.3 and 6.7.2.
Ensuring that there is a clean electrical source for each of the inputs required is vital to ensuring the correct operation
of the EROAD units. Installation instructions accompany each EROAD product and are also available on the EROAD
installer website www.eroadinstaller.co.nz.
5.1.1 Cable
Cable must be round so there is a tight fit when it passes through a cable gland when used to wire a Tubo.
The standard of cable must be suitable for auto electrical work, not sound/ speaker cable. The minimum cable to be
used is 1.0mm (17AWG)
Where an external GPS aerial is fitted and an extension is required, EROAD offers a 4 metre extension cable (SMA
male to SMA female ends). Only two extension cables can be used before a degradation of the signal strength will
occur.
If the GPS cable is too long do not coil tightly - it must be installed in long loop with a minimum bend radius of 50mm.
All joints are to be made using the solder technique – the use of crimp joiners to join cable is not sanctioned by
EROAD.
As a follow-up the join is then taped and then cable tied.
5.1.3.2 Soldering
All wiring joins are to be soldered (no crimps of any type are to be used).
Again, this is only effective if done correctly.
To solder an EROAD wire to a vehicle wire, strip back the insulation of the vehicle wire 10mm to 15mm.
Strip back the EROAD wire end by about 20mm, depending on the wire size of the vehicle wire being
soldered to. There must be enough wire stripped back to wrap around the vehicle wire at least twice.
Ensure that the EROAD wire is held parallel with the vehicle wire so the joint can be taped and cable tied
easily. If it comes in at 90°, it will form a T that will be awkward to tape and cable tie.
Allow the soldering iron sufficient time to heat up fully.
Ensure that the soldering iron tip is clean and well tinned with solder. It can be wiped on a wet sponge to
clean off old solder and flux once it is hot.
Apply the tip of the soldering iron to the joint, ensuring both wires are being heated. A small drop of solder on
the iron will allow the heat to transfer to the wire better.
All wire joints must be properly insulated, either with insulation tape or heatshrink.
If a number of wires are to be insulated, each must be individually taped and then the entire bundle can be
taped. Individual wire joins must be staggered along the length to avoid a large bundle.
When applying insulation tape, use a good brand and wrap overlapping layers. The tape should cover the
insulation on either side of the exposed copper by at least 15mm
Apply light tension to the tape while wrapping it on to ensure the tape sticks firmly and does not cover the joint
loosely.
Avoid touching the adhesive backing while taping as this reduces its effectiveness due to oil in our skin.
5.1.4 Heatshrink
If using heatshrink, check the diameter and shrink ratio to ensure it will shrink small enough to compress onto
the joint. Heating the end of a small piece to confirm the shrunk size before you start is a good idea. Again,
make sure the length used will extend well past the exposed copper, and ensure the heatshrink is centred on
the joint before shrinking.
Use a hot air tool, or cool gas flame to gently and evenly heat the heatshrink. Do not use a soldering iron tip
or direct flame to contact-heat it. If it starts to smoke or singe, too much heat has been applied
Most automotive manufacturers use split corrugated sleeving to protect wiring harnesses from chafing and
damage.
It is required that all EROAD harnesses are run in split, corrugated sleeving wherever possible, especially in
areas where they could be prone to mechanical damage or high temperatures.
Where wires are required to be connected to studs or terminal blocks, the appropriate terminal must be crimped to the
wire first.
A ring terminal is required for terminating to a stud, while a split-ring terminal must be used when terminating to the
barrier-block terminal strips used in some EROAD products.
The screws in the barrier blocks do not unscrew fully – they will shear if unscrewed fully.
The correct terminal size for the wire gauge must always be used, as must the correct crimp tool for the terminal.
Always perform a pull-off strength test on crimp terminals after crimping. If the terminal can be pulled off the
wire, it is not correctly crimped. Obviously only moderate force should be used.
All cables must be routed under the dash or behind pillars except for the security clamp/ heat shrink and cord from the
Ebox. The only exception will be the tail of the Driver ID cable that plugs into the back of the unit.
Do not route cables through holes dedicated to air conditioner drains – this can result in water draining back into the
cab.
Wherever possible the cables are placed inside split gland tubing. As the wiring loom enters the tubing, tape it to
reduce the opportunity of the cabling moving/ chafing within the tubing. The tubing is taped every 150mm to reduce
the possibility of the cable popping out if the tubing is twisted or bent.
Fuse holders and the appropriate fuses are supplied as all connections (except ground) must be fused.
The fuse holders must be sealed so as be able to indicate a tamper as well as protection from the possibility of a short
circuit occurring. The procedure is as follows:
5.1.9.1 Truck
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN A DASH WITHOUT THE OWNERS (NOT THE DRIVER’S) PERMISSION.
Holes will be required at times to be drilled through the floor pan or similar. Ensure you are not compromising
the integrity of a firewall.
5.1.9.2 Trailer
Ensure that holes being drilled are at least 50mm away from any welds and flange joins (top and bottom).
All holes drilled must have a grommet or cable gland used to protect the cable from chafing.
Ensure that all swarf is cleaned up from the work completed.
Ehubo - all powered heavy transport vehicles that traditionally required a mechanical hubodometer
Tubo - all trailer units
EhuboLite- all diesel-powered vehicles that traditionally did not require a mechanical hubodometer
Elocate - all other vehicles and assets
Driver ID - any vehicle
Each of these products has a variety of auto electrical and in some cases mechanical requirements for the correct
installation of EROAD equipment.
If you have any concerns regarding completing the installation on time please keep the customer within the
communications loop. Advise them why there will be a delay and when the installation will be completed.
Any existing damage to the vehicle exterior or interior must be documented before the installation begins and
should be signed by the owner or driver.
It is equally important to bring the owner or driver’s attention to anything that is in obvious need of repair that
is discovered during the installation. It is the natural reaction of the driver to blame any failure, related to the
installation or not, to the latest part fitted.
This typically includes wiring of aftermarket devices where the wiring is sub-standard or dangerous. Dirty
battery terminals or fuse clips are also something that could result in failure of the EROAD system, or be
attributed to the installation.
It is important to evaluate the installation and properly plan it before commencement. Take 10 minutes to look
at the vehicle, determine how the cable will be routed, and discuss with the customer where the EROAD unit
will be best sited.
If any mechanical work is required, such as welding of brackets or fitting of pole wheels, the vehicle must be
taken to a reputable mechanical workshop or service centre that specialises in that type of work.
Every aspect of the installation must be performed in a professional manner to the same standard as the OEM
equivalent. If any aspect of the installation is beyond the scope of the installer, it must be passed to a qualified
professional in that field.
The following hand tools and consumables are the minimum required for an installation
6.3.1 Tools
Set of screwdrivers
Socket set, metric and imperial
Torx bits
Sharp knife
Wire strippers
Side-cutters
40W to 80W soldering iron or gas soldering iron.
6.3.2 Consumables
EROAD recommends that each technician should have readily available to them the following Health and Safety
equipment:
Safety boots
Appropriate Hi Viz and safety clothing
Appropriate safety glasses
Appropriate ear protection
Vehicle first aid kit and fire extinguisher
Road cones as required to indicate work being done on a stationary vehicle
Orange flashing light for transiting restricted areas.
Knee pads for comfort/protection when kneeling on stony or rough ground.
Be aware that there is a growing trend for new vehicles to come with CANBUS. Do not connect in any way to the
CANBUS system as this is not sanctioned by EROAD. As an indication CANBUS cabling is predominantly twisted
pair.
It is important that all wires and cables are positioned and run in the same manner as original equipment on the
vehicle. All wires and cables must:
Be routed with existing wiring harnesses wherever possible.
Be routed such that they will not chafe or rub on parts of the vehicle during normal use of the vehicle.
Be routed such that they cannot be snagged on persons or equipment in the vehicle.
Be tied securely out of the way so that there are no cables seen dangling or hanging.
Pass-through protective rubber grommets or dedicated plugs when passing through a metal barrier or
bulkhead.
Be covered with split or spiral sleeving to hold the cable bundle together and protect it.
Be rated for the maximum fused current it might carry. This means that the wire must be rated for 10A if it is
protected by a 10A fuse, even if the equipment connected to it only draws 2A.
Be rated for the temperature in the environment it is run. If it is run through the engine bay, it must be rated to
125°C and be protected by high temperature sleeving.
Be routed through sealed grommets if they pass through an engine bay bulkhead to prevent water or exhaust
gases passing into the cab.
The preferred option (when installing an Ehubo) is to connect to “true idle” (connect to a point that is live while
the engine is running – alternator or OBC) irrespective of ignition switch position. This will overcome turbo
timer and isolation switch issues. See www.eroadinstaller.co.nz for more information by vehicle.
Ignition switch connection (connected to the ignition and live in the start position) and off when in the ACC or
the OFF position.
POWER SUPPLY MUST NOT BE TAKEN FROM ANY ABS/ EBS RELATED SYSTEM
The main positive power supply must be connected to an unfused 12V or 24V supply whenever possible. The best
place to find supply will be in the fusebox.
The EROAD-supplied fuse holder and fuse must be connected as close to this connection as possible to protect the
entire positive power feed.
A common ground bar or junction is the best place to connect the negative wire. A ring terminal may be required to be
crimped to the negative wire to terminate it to a ground stud.
Connecting the negative wire to any chassis bolt is not acceptable. A dedicated ground point must be used. In
some cases this will be a bolt into the metal surround of the fusebox. Always remove paint from around the stud and
use a star washer when using such an earth point to ensure a good connection.
Power supply feed must always be live irrespective of ignition key position.
With vehicles that have a power ‘kill switch” - you cannot bypass the switch – you must connect on the isolated side of
the switch.
The EROAD system relies on a reliable speed signal from the vehicle. Wherever possible, a conditioned, digital signal
from the speedometer or an ECU should be used. Often, a digital speed signal is available at the speedometer cluster
or the main ECU. Where this is not possible, a vehicle speed sensor can be connected under the following conditions:
It is properly conditioned with the use of an EROAD-supplied and approved amplifier (Scania 2004+).
It is confirmed by measurement with a multi-meter that no short circuits or open circuits have been introduced
in the original vehicle system.
It is confirmed by test driving the vehicle that all vehicle systems using the sensor still operate correctly and no
dashboard warning lights or error codes have been introduced.
No original vehicle wiring may be cut in order to connect to it. Connection to the sensor must be made
at a junction box, or by splicing to a wire without breaking it.
All new wiring must conform to the original vehicle wiring in terms of routing, sleeving, taping and water-
proofing.
Under no circumstances may any part of the vehicle braking system be connected to. This includes power
from ABS/EBS modules and junction boxes as well as speed signals from wheel sensors.
EROAD carries ex stock, numerous sensors, adapters, voltage regulators or peripherals required for sourcing
of a suitable speed signal.
Any use of non OEM or sensors not obtained from EROAD must be approved by EROAD Technical Services
prior to use.
A list of approved parts is available on the EROAD Installer website: www.eroadinstaller.co.nz
It is a LEGAL REQUIREMENT that the RUC licences and vehicle distance readings displayed on the Ehubo
can be easily read from inside and outside of the vehicle.
Make sure the registration plate of the vehicle matches the plate shown on the Ebox screen, if not phone
EROAD Support as soon as possible.
Please discuss with owner of the vehicle and select a suitable mounting location that:
does not obscure the driver’s view
is on the left hand side of the windscreen
allows the Ehubo to be read from outside the vehicle
does not interfere with any driver controls.
does not obstruct any safety systems such as airbags, seatbelts etc.
is on a flat section of the windscreen
is clear of stone guards, windscreen wipers and rear view mirrors
is 200mm or more away from the A Pillar
is 50mm or more above the dashboard
does not prevent the glovebox lid opening all the way
does not restrict airflow from a demister vent to the windscreen
If the windscreen is particularly dirty, a degreaser or solvent-based cleaner may be required to remove heavy oil or
grease.
Do not slide Ehubo into the mounting bracket until the wiring has been installed, allowing time for the adhesive tape
bond to strengthen.
Slide Ehubo
into Mount
.
Inserting Ehubo into mount
Power, ground and Ignition must be fused (2A) as close to source as possible using the in-line fuse holders supplied
by EROAD.
The fuse holder is to be placed as closely as possible to where the input source is being taken from. Once complete
the fuse holders can be joined together and security sealed with the cable tie supplied.
Anything above 9 volts is deemed as ON and below will be off. It is preferable that the input is to switch from 0 to 12 or
24 volts.
If you have an input that goes to ground then switching it through a relay (diode protected) will work fine.
Note that some digital outputs may not be able to supply enough current to switch an automotive relay.
Please make sure you use automotive relays that have a diode to protect against back EMF. Relays without diodes
can cause voltage spikes that can kill sensitive equipment.
Recommended relays are:
As at Oct 2012 only Ehubos can be fitted (within the cab only) to DG vehicles.
There are some specific requirements to installing into DG vehicles and must be strictly adhered to.
Requirements:
Installations will be completed off site (ie not a fuel tank site etc).
Before going through the trouble-shooting procedures for the EROAD units, we should look at the potential areas that
could affect the performance of the Ebox and discuss the “Mysterious Supply Spike and Noise”, the consequences of
a bad ground, EMI and other important information you should know and always be aware of.
Radiated noise
Conducted noise
Induced noise
Proper grounding of PCBs and shielding enclosure and components is also a method for reducing board-generated
EMI. However, improper or ineffective grounding may actually increase EMI emission levels, with the ground itself
becoming a major radiating source.
6.5.5.10 Spikes
Voltage spikes are produced whenever a magnetic field collapses. When the current is turned off to any coil, an
inductive voltage is created that is many times higher than the input voltage. This is the principle on which the ignition
coil works to create the thousands of volts necessary to bridge the spark plug gap.
However, when voltage spikes are created in circuits where we don't want them, they can cause serious problems.
There are two general spike sources: coils and contacts. Consider for a moment the number of coils in today's cars,
besides the ignition coil. There are numerous relays and solenoids, all with coils of their own. Now, consider all the
switches across whose contacts an arc could be created.
Relays have both a coil which, when energised, creates a magnetic field and a set of contacts. Some examples are
horn relays, fuel pump relays and starter relays. Solenoids are similar, but the coil is hollow and surrounds a ferrous
pole piece that moves when the coil is energised. They are electromechanical devices that usually do some kind of
work. Examples include the starter solenoid, which engages the starter drive.
Voltage is increased even more when the magnetic field collapses around a metal core, as in an ignition coil. High
voltage is useful from the ignition coil, but unwanted when it comes from something else. In order to prevent a voltage
spike from going somewhere it does not belong, the circuit usually has some sort of protection, most commonly
clamping diodes, capacitors and resistors.
A diode acts like an electrical check-valve and only lets current flow in one direction. A capacitor acts like an electrical
cushion and a resistor acts like an electrical sponge. All three act to prevent stray voltage spikes from harming circuits.
Most relay solenoids have a diode across the coil to prevent back EMF when the voltage collapses. If this diode is
blown, the protection is lost. The back EMF from the coil can be several times higher than the supply voltage. This
high back EMF can cause damage in time to the circuitry that drives it, often some type of on-board computer /
microprocessor system. This explains why certain components and tracks on OBC’s are sometimes damaged.
6.5.5.11 Grounds
The ground circuit is one of the most neglected and possibly most often misunderstood and misdiagnosed circuits in a
vehicle. Basic electricity theory says that a circuit must be a complete loop.
Rather than run a return wire for every circuit, automotive engineers use the car's metal body to carry the current back
to the battery. The most common problem with the ground side is a missing or weak ground. Missing grounds are
often the result of a forgetful vehicle auto technician who did not replace a ground strap between the engine block and
the firewall or fender. Sometimes the ground strap just breaks as a result of corrosion. If there is poor contact due to a
loose screw or due to corrosion at the ground connection, resistance is created in the circuit. The ground is still there,
but it is resistant to the flow of electricity, which looks for the path of least resistance home to the battery.
Using a Digital Multi Meter, accurate to within 10mV on AC or DC measurements. Correctly used, it will save you a lot
of time and money unnecessarily changing devices or vehicle wiring. Resistance in a circuit causes the voltage to
drop. This is normal if the resistance is a light bulb or “blower” resistor. However voltage drop caused by bad circuits
can create some strange symptoms including rough running engines, starting problems, chattering relays, radio
interference, false problem codes from service computers and problems with on board computers (OBC).
Here are some voltage maximums you can use as a general rule. These are absolute voltage listings, which may still
be too high for certain sensitive OBC’s.
Ground connection voltage drop is acceptable if it is below 100mV, but many technicians claim that anything in excess
of 50mV in the grounds for electronic computer controls is too high. Computer controls usually operate on 5V and
carry extremely low currents that are incapable of punching through even the slightest corrosion. The lower the
ground-side voltage drop, the better.
Follow the same procedure above for the positive terminal of the battery.
Always measure for ripple at the connector end of the power source.
Put the test leads across the positive and negative source and note the reading. The measurements must be done
through the various RPM ranges readings 40mV and less are normally acceptable. Readings above 40mV may
indicate the following problems on the vehicles electrical system.
Typically the issue is bad or corroded battery terminals and connections. These need to be checked and cleaned. A
thin film of corrosion may have formed around the poles that cannot be seen.
You may have a battery that cannot hold charge any longer. The rectifier diodes or regulator in the alternator may be
faulty. Faulty electrical accessories in the vehicle may be inducing noise in the supply line, e.g. clamping diodes
across a relay coil that may be blown.
© EROAD 2012 – form 001071A Commercial In Confidence Page 55 of 74
6.5.5.15 Twisted Pair
In balanced pair operation, the two wires carry equal and opposite signals and the destination detects the difference
between the two. This is known as differential mode transmission. Noise sources introduce signals into the wires by
coupling of electric or magnetic fields and tend to couple to both wires equally. The noise thus produces a common-
mode signal which is cancelled at the receiver when the difference signal is taken.
This method starts to fail when the noise source is close to the signal wires; the closer wire will couple with the noise
more strongly and the common-mode rejection of the receiver will fail to eliminate it. This problem is especially
apparent in telecommunication cables where pairs in the same cable lie next to each other for many miles. One pair
can induce crosstalk in another and it is additive along the length of the cable. Twisting the pairs counters this effect
as on each half twist the wire nearest to the noise-source is exchanged.
Providing the interfering source remains uniform, or nearly so, over the distance of a single twist, the induced noise
will remain common-mode. Differential signaling also reduces electromagnetic radiation from the cable, along with
the associated attenuation allowing for greater distance between exchanges.
Ensure you check with the customer as to where the unit will be sited. Installation of the
Driver ID does require four screws to be fitted onto the dash, centre console etc.
Installations
Two looms are supplied with each driver ID. One plugs into the Ehubo wiring loom (male
and female ends) and the other cable (CAT5) plugs from the molded section of the main
loom into the back of the Driver ID.
Test Driver ID by scanning a driver licence and pressing the ‘ID’ button.
Driver ID should beep when login and logout occurs.
LED should change to green for login and red for logout
LED stays red after driver’s Possible issue with Driver ID Check wiring and connections
licence is inserted hardware
Contact EROAD Support
Make sure the registration plate of the vehicle matches the plate shown on the Ebox screen, if not phone
EROAD Support as soon as possible.
When connecting the cabling between the Tubo and Tubo battery box, you must connect the cabling to the Tubo first.
The Tubo battery box is cabled last, working from the left of the barrier block (first connection RX In and the last
connection should be Positive In)
Several wiring options exist for the Tubo depending on the trailer type and configuration. The power supply to the
TUBO must be independent and connection via a splice into the trailer wiring harness is not sanctioned.
6.7.1.2 Power Option 2 – Pin 5 of 7 Pin Trailer Plug Used for Work Lights
If Pin 5 of the 7-pin trailer plug is not available, but used for work lights or reversing lights, it may be possible to use
this for Tubo power. In this case, the switch for the work lights will need to be moved to the trailer instead of in the
truck. Permission from the driver/ owner is required before commencing work.
Connect the wire from pin 5 on the truck plug to permanent 12V or 24V via a fuse that is sufficient for both the
Tubo (10A) and the work lights. This may involve just connecting the two wires of the switch together if the
circuit is already fused correctly.
Remove the switch in the truck.
Add a sealed, outdoor switch with the correct current rating to the circuit in the trailer.
Connect an EROAD-approved fuse holder and 2A fuse to the un-switched side of the positive supply on the
trailer and connect to the Tubo positive.
Part No Description
CN000300A-G 15 -Pin Plug
Chargers LED’s get damaged when cables are connected onto the board at installation.
BE CAREFUL
The charger does get warm when charging (2 black square inductors especially)
The Tubo and Tubo battery boxes have been manufactured to an IP69K standard, i.e. high pressure, high
temperature, wash down liquid and dust tight.
Prior to leaving the production facility the front and back of the enclosures are tested to 5 psi pressure to ensure a
water and dust tight seal is present.
During the installation the enclosures must be split to allow fitting to the trailer. Please ensure that when closing up the
enclosure that:
All sealing faces are kept clean and scratch-free.
Bolts cross-tightened lightly when closing to evenly compress the seal, then cross tightened to a torque
of 1.5Nm. A torque-limited screwdriver must be used.
All cables in and out of enclosures are round in cross-section and between 6mm and 9.5mm diameter
so the cable glands seal around them.
Peel off protective plastic film covering Tubo screen.
There are several options available for connection to a speed signal. They are listed below in order of preference:
1. If the trailer is fitted with pole wheels and suitable for use and sensors that are not used by the ABS/EBS system,
then one of these can be used together with the EROAD to generate a speed signal.
2. An OEM kit for the trailer can be used. This will typically include a pole wheel, bracket and wheel sensor.
3. If a pole wheel is fitted, but no sensor or sensor bracket, an EROAD-supplied bracket can be welded in place and
an EROAD-supplied sensor and cable used to generate the speed signal.
4. If there is no pole wheel fitted at all, an EROAD-supplied pole wheel must be fitted, as described in section 6.7.4.
Part No Description
MSE000250 ROR Sensor Holder – Drum Brake
The optimum position for a pole wheel is on the right hand side of the trailer as there is less road debris in the middle
of the road compared to the kerbside.
Teeth - 80
Once the road wheel/ hub assembly has been removed and stripped (refer to axle manufacturer’s instructions before
carrying out this operation), check to see if the is a machined step on the back side of the hub to accept the pole
wheel. If no step is present then one will need to be machined to suit. This must be carried out by suitably qualified
technicians. The pole wheel needs to have its inner diameter machined so that it is a tight/shrink fit onto the step on
the hub. Once in place it should not be able to move.
A wheel hub with its OEM pole wheel can be seen above prior to the bearings being repacked and the hub seal
installed. Once at this stage (with no seal installed), refit the hub to the axle and locate a suitable position to fit the
wheel sensor mounting block. Note that there needs to be enough clearance to remove and replace the sensor should
it fail. Also pay attention to the routing of the sensor cable so that it does not become entangled in the brakes or any
other moving parts.
The sensor mounting block needs to be mounted at right angles to the pole wheel and close enough so that the wheel
sensor can touch the pole wheel when pushed fully home. Tack the mounting block into position taking care not to
allow any welding spatter to enter the wheel bearings. Remove the hub and weld the mounting block into position.
If there is no hole in the brake backing plates for the sensor cable to pass through this will need to be drilled as well.
Fit the sensor complete with its clamping sleeve and refit the wheel hub again without the hub seal. The clamping
sleeve holds the sensor firmly in the mounting bracket, but allows it to be pushed up against the pole wheel. As the
pole wheel turns after installation, it pushes the sensor back by the minimum amount. The maximum run-out on the
pole wheel is 0.5mm and the sensor must never be further from the pole wheel than that amount.
The wheel sensor can now be tested with either an oscilloscope or a voltmeter set to AC to ensure that it is putting out
a signal. This should be more than 0.2Vac when turning by hand.
The wheel hub can now have its bearings repacked, hub seal fitted and reassembled following the manufacturer’s
recommended procedure. Don’t forget to push the wheel sensor fully in towards the pole wheel as part of the final
assembly.
The Tubo has a connector available so an external GPS antenna must be fitted. This is required when the Tubo is
mounted in a position that obscures the internal antenna’s view of the sky.
The Ehubo does not have provision for an external GPS antenna as it is always mounted on the windscreen and this
provides the internal antenna with a good view of the sky.
The GPS antenna will not function correctly unless it is mounted correctly.
The GPS antenna must be mounted in a location that:
Allows the antenna to be mounted horizontally with an unobstructed view of the sky for at least 65° as shown
in GPS Antenna beamwidth.
Will not interfere with the normal use of the vehicle.
Does not protrude from the vehicle so as to be prone to damage during normal use of the vehicle.
Allows the cable to be routed such that it is protected from damage by brushes during washing of the vehicle,
or snagging on overhanging trees or foliage.
Provides the largest possible horizontal metal area beneath it that will form the ground plane.
Is on the right side of the vehicle if it cannot be on top. This reduces the effect of roadside trees blocking the
antenna’s view of the sky.
The ideal position is on the roof of the cab, which provides a large ground plane area and an unobstructed view of the
sky.
Trailers provide the most difficult mounting arrangement for the antenna, but the rules above must still be followed.
This may require a bracket to be fabricated to hold the antenna horizontally in a particular position. The bracket also
forms a ground plane that improves the performance of the antenna.
TRAILERS
POLL WHEEL & ACCESSORIES
MSE000054 Pol l Wheel Ki t; Pol l Wheel , Bl ock & Sens or
MSE000055 EROAD Pol l Wheel
MSE000053 EROAD Sens or Mounti ng Bl ock (to s ui t a xl e)
MSE000058 EROAD Sens or Mounti ng Bl ock (recta ngul a r confi gura ti on)
MSE000056 BOSCH Speed Sens or
MSE000250 ROR Sens or Hol der - Drum Bra ke
MSE000252 ROR Sens or Hol der - Di s c Bra ke & Ha rdwa re Ki t
MSE000310 SAF Sens or Hol der & Screws (x2)
CN000300A-G 15 Pi n Pl ug
CN000310A-G 15 Pi n Socket
CB000320A-G 15 Pi n Suzy Ca bl e 3.5mtr
CB000280A-G 15 Core Ca bl e - per metre
CB000310A_G 15 Pi n Pl ug + 5mtr of 15 Core Ca bl e
CB000311A-G 15 Pi n Pl ug + 10mtr of 15 Core Ca bl e
CB000300A-G 15 Pi n Socket + 5mtr of 15 Core Ca bl e
CB000301A-G 15 Pi n Socket + 10mtr of 15 Core Ca bl e
Those staff that have not been accredited can work through an installation, however an accredited technician must
complete the wiring terminations and sign off on the installation certificate. This allows ‘apprentices’ to become familiar
with the EROAD installation process prior to any formal accreditation.
At all times the accredited technician has the final responsibility for the standard of installation.
Accreditation is valid for 12 months. The internal review process occurs after the second audit (which are conducted
every 6 months) has been completed.
Assessment Points:
At least 2 satisfactory audits over the previous 12 months
Review of last 3 installations including photographs and completed Installation Certificates
Feedback from EROAD customer services and service delivery staff
The accreditation level is confirmed when sufficient in field training with an EROAD certified trainer has been
conducted.
Training Process
The training takes place generally over three installations of the same unit type.
The training format is a “Watch, Assist, Solo” process:
Watch - the technician watches the first installation as it is being completed by the trainer.
Assist - the technician assists the trainer with the second installation.
Solo - the technician completes the third installation under the scrutiny of the trainer.
Throughout the training the Trainer will be explaining the process and particular techniques. There will be an
expectation that the technician is familiar with the EROAD installation process through prior study of the EROAD New
Zealand Installation Manual and product-related installation documents.
In-Vehicle Units:
1. Discussion with the customer on unit siting (Ehubo, Driver ID etc).
2. Run through of pre-install checklist on Installation Certificate checking for damage – Photographs.
3. Clean Windscreen – preparation for windscreen holder.
4. Opening of dash panels – care to be taken.
5. Check where electrical sources are and determine wiring loom routing.
6. Fit Windscreen mount (allows silicon to set before inserting the Ehubo) – Photographs.
7. Siting of security lock (Ehubo only).
8. Sleeving wiring loom and cable tying as wiring loom is run.
9. Earth terminations – Photographs.
10. Speed Signal source – if analogue, must use twisted pair cable.
11. Power – clean source.
12. Ignition – correct connection (not ACC).
13. Fuse holder siting – close to source – cable tie and tape as dash is about to be closed. – Photographs.
14. Soldering technique, plus tape and cable tie. – Photographs.
15. Powering up Ebox
16. Observing screen for installation process.
17. Observe screen calibrating whilst vehicle is being test driven.
18. Reassemble dash.
19. Housekeeping – Clean up swarf/ wire ends/ wipe dash and seats.
20. Paperwork – Post installation check and RUCHO slip. – Photographs.
Trailer Units:
1. Discussion with the customer on unit siting (Tubo and Tubo battery box).
Tubo box must be installed on left hand (kerb) side of trailer. – Photographs.
2. Check where to take power from - pin 5 of 7-pin plug. Marker lights with waterproof switch, 15-Pin Plug?
DO NOT splice into trailer wiring loom.
3. Tipper body/ Trombone – has this been taken into consideration when running cables?
4. Run through of Pre-Install checklist on Installation Certificate checking for damage – Photographs.
5. Check where speed signal is to be sourced from – spare sensor/ spare slot/ pole wheel?
Best site is right hand side of trailer.
Sleeve speed sensor wire from back of hub to past the connection to the Wabco plug. – Photographs.
6. GPS aerial to get best view of sky, excess GPS loom to be laid out in lazy coil. Do not tightly coil.
Sleeve GPS cable. – Photographs.
7. Run cables inside existing loom sleeving,/ behind existing cable runs/ along with air lines etc.
Cable Tie to existing loom no more than every 300mm.
8. Soldering technique - plus tape and cable tie.
9. Round cable must be used going into Tubo boxes – Photographs.
One cable per grommet.
Tighten grommets thoroughly.
Cable tie each cable inside Tubo boxes as strain relief to stop cable pulling back through.
10. Use EROAD supplied crimps.
Screws from terminal block cannot be unscrewed fully – they do break!
Crimps are positive connect.
Connect as per installation document that came with Tubo unit. – Photographs.
5 Wire – Battery In +, Battery In - , Trailer Supply +, TX out & RX in.
2 Wire – Speed Signal.
GPS connected to bottom of Tubo.
11. Test drive, close up.
12. Housekeeping – Clean up swarf/ wire ends.
13. Paperwork - Post installation check and RUCHO slip.
Feedback will be given after each audit and where required, remedial work will be directed to be actioned.
Cus tomer
Igni ti on s ource
Power s ource
TUBO
Ca bl e i s round
Grommets ti ght