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the rich marrow from the lower end, which was broken for that
purpose. The extent of the cavern was from fifteen to twenty feet;
the entrance so narrow, that the explorer could only enter feet
foremost, nor was it sufficiently large in the interior to enable him to
stand erect. About sunset we returned to Yas, having a fine
moonlight night for our journey.
The aborigines have many superstitious ceremonies connected
with their practice of the healing art, as we find among all primitive
nations; those persons who take upon themselves the occupation to
attend upon the sick or wounded, unite the offices of priest,
soothsayer, and physician. The few medicines administered by them
are from the vegetable kingdom; they also make use of a crystal for
the cure of diseases, not by administering it to the sick person, but
the physician employs its aid, to act upon the superstitious mind of
his patient; it is the common quartz crystal, and is called by the
natives, in the vicinity of Sydney, Krardgee Kibba, or Doctor Stone.
[69] This name, borrowed from the Europeans, is sometimes
employed by the Yas natives, but that by which it is characterized by
them and likewise by the natives of the Murrumbidgee and Tumat
countries, is “Merrúdagalle.” The aborigines say they manufacture it,
but would not mention the ingredients of which it is composed; this
was a secret!! The women are never permitted to look upon it, and
the priests impose upon their minds a belief, that, should their
curiosity prompt them so far, they would instantly die.
These crystals are valued by them according to their size, and it is
not easy to procure a large one from them. They are not only
regarded as a charm by which wounds and diseases of the human
frame can be cured, but they advance another step, by declaring,
that when thrown at a person (accompanied, I suppose, by certain
incantations) it will have the power of causing his death. This power,
said by them to be possessed by the stone, having been mentioned
one day by a native to a European settler, the latter ridiculed it, and
desired the black to put it to the test by throwing it at him. This,
however, was refused, “he being good man;” alluding to the
European, “he no want kill him;” and, after using every endeavour to
induce blackee to make the trial, he shuffled out of the dilemma, by
acknowledging “that it would have no effect upon the white fellers.”
The following account of the manner in which the crystal is used
by the physician, may be considered interesting. In the Tumat
country, a native black, named Golong, was suffering from a spear
wound, received a short time previous in a skirmish with a hostile
tribe; it was in the evening, (for the stones are only used after dark,
as at that time their efficacy is considered greater,) when a native of
his tribe, named Baramumbup, employed the crystal for the purpose
of healing the wound in the following manner.
The patient was laid at a distance of twenty or thirty yards from
the encampment, after which the physician commenced the
examination of the wound, which he sucked; then, without spitting,
he retired to a distance of ten or fifteen yards from the invalid,
muttered, or appeared to mutter some prayer or invocation for about
a minute; on concluding, he placed the crystal in his mouth, sucked
it, and then, removing the stone, spat upon the ground, and
trampled upon the discharged saliva, pressing it with his feet firmly
into the earth. This ceremony was repeated several times on this
and subsequent evenings, until the patient’s recovery, which, of
course, was considered to have been effected by the wonderful
curative properties resident in the crystal. On making inquiry, why
the physician is so careful in trampling the saliva discharged from his
mouth into the ground, no satisfactory reason could be obtained, a
vague answer only being returned to the query; but it is not
improbable that they consider, by this operation, they finally destroy
the power of the evil spirit, extracted by the operation, through the
virtues of the stone: some such reason for this proceeding may be
inferred from an observation made to any European, who may be
present at this part of the ceremony, that “He no come up again.”
A somewhat analogous custom exists among the aboriginal tribes
of Brazil, called “Guachos,” as related by Spix and Martius in their
Brazilian Travels. (English Trans. 8vo. vol. ii. page 77.) “Their Payés,
or physicians, (called in their language, Vunageneto,) are conjurers
and exorcists of the evil principle, which they call Nanigogigo. Their
cures of the sick are very simple, and consist principally in
fumigating, or in sucking, the part affected; on which the payé spits
into a pit, as if he would give back the evil principle, which he has
sucked out, to the earth, and bury it.”
 CHAPTER X.
Leave Yas Plains for Sydney—Mr. Shelly’s farm—Splendid new road—Mr.
Barber’s farm—Shoalhaven gullies—Interesting spot—Mr. Campbell’s
farm—Journey resumed—Settlement of Bong, Bong—Bargo Brush—
Profusion of flowering shrubs—View from the summit of Mount
Prudhoe—The cow pasture road—Farms of Mr. M’Arthur, and Captain
Coghill—Flowers—The white cedar—Government hospital at
Liverpool.

On the 13th of October, I left Yas Plains on my return to Sydney,

[70] retracing my route by Gonnong, Mut, mut, billy, I arrived at
Goulburn Plains on the 14th. Resuming my journey on the following
morning, accompanied by some friends, they carried me a different
route from that by which I arrived at the plains: the road led over a
rather hilly but open forest and good pasture land, and, travelling a
distance of fifteen miles, (when close brush asserted its triumph over
the former fine country,) we arrived at Mr. Shelly’s farm on the
“Grampian Hills.” Proceeding six miles beyond, we crossed the
splendid new road, forming a portion of the great southern line: it
was wide, yet unbeaten; a dense forest bounding it on either side as
far as the eye could reach, the felled trees being placed along, to
point out the breadth of the road. This did not appear requisite, as
the thick forest sufficiently indicated it.
At a short distance further on, we turned off the more direct road,
and arrived at Mr. Barber’s farm, close to which commences the
extraordinary and extensive fissure, called the “Shoalhaven Gullies,”
extending through a large tract of country to the sea coast. This
farm possesses natural beauties of a sublime and romantic
character; but the soil is principally rocky, and does not seem to
possess the valuable requisites to a settler, that of arable land and
good sheep pasturage, in any quantity. To a visitor, however, the
romantic beauties of the Gullies are sufficient objects of attraction;
and, accompanied by Mr. Hume, senior, I was taken, at a very short
distance from the house, to as splendid a scene as has been perhaps
yet discovered in this interesting and peculiar country. I much regret
that time did not permit me to make a closer examination of these
gullies, which appear to owe their existence to some sudden
convulsion of nature that had violently rent the hills asunder; down
the steep sides, a dense vegetation concealed their depth, although
the eye could reach, unimpeded, sufficiently deep to enable some
idea to be formed of the profoundness of these chasms. The largest
and most extensive gully, said to possess the most beautiful scenery,
was five miles distant.
The Shoalhaven river, which runs beneath, was not visible,
although its murmuring, broken torrent could be heard. The wooded
hills, varying in denseness, some trees overhanging the abyss, still
further increased the sublimity of the scene; and occasionally in the
evenings, a small species of kangaroo, called “rock kangaroo” by the
colonists, was seen skipping about the hills. To a geologist, the
examination of these localities would be highly interesting, as there
are several caverns, in their limestone formations, with indications of
fossil remains. Highly gratified by the view, I departed; and after
leaving this farm, crossed a small, insignificant rivulet: this was the
river (or, according to the colonial vocabulary, “creek”) which
empties itself into the Shoalhaven Gullies; and its first fall into them
was at no further distance than a hundred rods from this place. The
first fall is from a height of perhaps sixteen feet; and there are
several falls, altogether of about eighty feet, until the stream
reaches the first gully; when in its progress, it receives tributary
streams from the westward, forming the Shoalhaven river, which
flows through these romantic glens, until it terminates by
discharging its waters into the sea.
Our journey continued through a dull, uninteresting country; and
late in the evening we arrived at “Wingelo,” the farm of Robert
Campbell, Esq., by whom we were received with the kindest
hospitality, and remained the night, after travelling rather more than
twenty miles this day.
 The next morning found us again “en route” over a good road; but
gloomy forests and brush produced a dull scenery,[71] until, as we
progressed, it became enlivened by the gay blossoms of Acacias,
Patersonia, Daviesia, Pimelea; the long spikes of the grass-tree, with
tufts of white flowers; and a few small and elegant trees of the
Eucalyptus corymbosa, which were profusely covered with clusters
of snowy blossoms. The large forest trees in this country have very
small roots in proportion to their size and elevation, so much so as
to excite surprise how they are capable of standing against the
severe gusts of wind to which they are frequently exposed; and yet
for trees to be uprooted by that cause is comparatively rare,—
showing that nature is always correct in her work, however it may at
first appear to our judgment.
On approaching the settlement of “Bong, Bong,” the wild forest
had, in most places, given way to a cleared, cultivated, and beautiful
country, forming a strong contrast to the gloomy bush we passed
not long before. The vivid green of the fields of grain, in ear, but not
yet mature, gave promise of a plentiful harvest; and clumps of trees,
scattered about the pastures, sufficient to shelter the cattle from the
parching heats of summer, added to the pleasing character of the
scenery. The neat cottages, to which barns, stables, &c. were
attached, sprinkled over the landscape; the distant wooded hills; and
smiling fields, animated by cattle,—could not fail of exciting
pleasurable sensations, and a favourable impression of this “land of
promise,” sufficient to banish the disappointment which the dulness
of many of the wild parts of the country is too apt to produce.
Numerous small farms, with fields of grain, pasturage land,
abounding in cattle, horses, and sheep; neatly fenced paddocks, (for
hedges are unknown,) continued more or less from this, which is
called the settlement, to the township of “Bong, Bong,” a distance of
five or six miles. At one of the farms we passed, the overseer did not
appear to have yet received much benefit from the “march of
intellect;” for on a board the following notice appeared:—No
Thorrofaer Hear.
 Arriving at the Argyle Inn, in the township of “Bong, Bong,” we
thence proceeded, after remaining sufficient time to refresh
ourselves and horses, intending to continue the night at “Mittagong,”
ten miles further on. The weather was fine, but sultry; roads dusty,
scenery dull and uninteresting, until descending to the valley in
which the “Kangaroo or Cutter’s Inn” is situated, (after ascending
the Mittagong range,) it was an agreeable change to behold a
prospect of cleared and cultivated land, surrounded by dense
forests, and ranges of densely-wooded hills in the distance. There
was a quantity of land under cultivation for grain, pasturage, &c.,
animated by herds of cattle and flocks of sheep; and a windmill,
made an excellent addition to the landscape. Neat cottages, with
gardens, were scattered about; and, as it was near sunset at the
time we arrived, the scene was still further increased in beauty. We
soon reached the neat and comfortable inn, to which an excellent
garden is attached, well stocked with rose trees, in full bloom, pinks,
and other European flowering plants, as well as a number of
European fruit trees; many of which, at this time, were profusely
covered with snowy blossoms.
At dawn the next day, we were again on our journey: the morning
proved delightfully cool and agreeable, and nature seemed refreshed
by the night dews. A grateful fragrance emanated from the plants
and shrubs around, and the birds, by their carolling, seemed to
enjoy the cool atmosphere. The remainder of the “Mittagong range”
was passed over, and a rugged road led through “Bargo Brush,”
which is a dense forest, small portions only being occasionally seen
cleared, on which a farm or inn is established. Adjoining, was usually
a garden and land under cultivation. Although, for the most part, the
dense and sombre forest prevailed, yet often the soil beneath was
spread with a great number as well as variety of gay and beautiful
flowering shrubs, and plants; among the most numerous of those at
this time, in full bloom, were Gnaphalium, Crowea, Bossiea,
Pomaderris, Patersonia, Persoonia, Daviesia, Banksia, Hakea,
Xylomelum, Pimelea, &c. &c.
 The new line of road we entered upon, was broad, straight, and in
excellent condition. After travelling thirteen miles, we arrived at
“Lupton’s Inn,” and did not find early rising, with a long morning’s
ride, injuriously affect our appetites. Having breakfasted, we again
proceeded over an excellent road, along which were neat houses,
with gardens gay with the profusion of flowers, cleared patches of
land under cultivation with grain, or forest land, animated by
flowers; among them a beautiful Clematis was conspicuous, covering
the bushes with a profusion of white blossoms, or pendent in
graceful festoons from the dead trunk of a tree. Having crossed the
“Bargo River,” an inconsiderable stream, and passed “Myrtle Creek,”
which has several pretty farms about it, we reached “Stonequarry
Creek,” which at this time was in a dangerous state for vehicles,
more particularly for heavily laden drays, the road being much out of
repair. There are several farms about this place, and some quantity
of land under cultivation for grain.[72]
We passed the new line of road over the “Razor-back Mountain,”
which was in an unfinished state; and, at first, some doubt existed
whether this line would be completed, or another adopted; but it has
been decided to finish it; for which purpose, road gangs were about
to be employed upon it. On attaining the summit of Mount Prudhoe,
an extensive and beautiful panoramic view of Appin, the
Cowpastures, farms, together with cultivated and forest lands, &c.
was laid before us in one extensive landscape. We descended by an
excellent road, passed through “Camden,” the property of J.
M’Arthur, Esq., came upon the Cowpasture road, crossing the
Nepean river by a good wooden bridge, and arrived at Raby farm in
the afternoon, after a long ride of forty-three miles. After occupying
a few days in this vicinity, I proceeded to Sydney.
During my stay at the Cowpastures, I visited the fine farm at
Kirkham, the residence of Captain Coghill, and his amiable family:
this farm is valuable, consisting principally of rich arable land; the
Nepean river also running by the estate, is a valuable acquisition for
sheep-washing, &c. The summer was more advanced at this part of
the country than further in the interior. Strawberries and cream was
not an uncommon dish, and the fruit was very abundant this season.
Green peas were also in large quantities, and the gardens bloomed
with English, and the more delicate, but evanescent China varieties
of roses, and in such profusion, that one might have died of “roses
in aromatic pain.” Pinks, stocks, and other European flowers, caused
the atmosphere to teem with fragrance, and charmed the eye. At
some farms, the beautiful rose-tree, covered with its carnation-tinted
blossoms, adorned the verandahs; the white and pink Robinia was
attractive from the exquisite beauty imparted by its pendulous
clusters of blossoms and the ornamental growth of the tree.
But another, combining beauty of growth with fragrant flowers,
must not be omitted: it is the “white cedar” of the colony, and is
indigenous to this country, as well as most parts of India: it is the
Melia azedarach of botanists. The tree is deciduous, and was now
covered by pendulous clusters of lilac-coloured blossoms, adding to
the beauty and fragrance of the gardens, its lilac blossoms being
elegantly contrasted by the dark green glossy foliage: the fragrance
of the flowers so closely resembles those produced by the tree
known in England as the “lilac,” that the same appellation is given to
it in this colony. In the evenings, and night more especially, this tree
may be known to exist in the vicinity by the powerful fragrance it
emits for some distance.[73] The sweetbriar and quince is often used
about the farms as hedges for gardens, &c., and the appearance
they give is extremely neat; the fragrance of the former is very
agreeable. The Cape and English mulberry trees thrive well in the
colony; the former is said to bear fruit two or three times annually,
the latter only once.
In my way to Sydney, I availed myself of the kindness of Dr. Hill,
the colonial surgeon, to visit the government hospital at Liverpool; it
is the finest in the colony, but in my opinion of too large and
expensive construction for the purpose required. The wards were
spacious, well ventilated, and in excellent order, such indeed as
might be creditable to any of our metropolitan hospitals. The
patients receive every attention and comfort that their situation may
require.[74] There are sometimes one hundred and fifty in the
hospital, but the wards are capable of containing more. When it is
considered that patients come to this hospital from a distance of two
hundred miles, (that is, from the Murrumbidgee country, and even
beyond,) including a large extent of district, a large building may
have been thought requisite; but the more convenient and less
expensive method would have been, to have built two hospitals of
moderate size, one at Goulburn Plains, and the other at Liverpool;
for it was a sad mistake to compel an invalid to travel a distance of
two hundred miles for medical assistance; and affords a facility for
many to feign sickness, that they might have a journey down the
country to see their friends, causing much inconvenience to the
settler, who has no other means of ascertaining the man’s complaint,
but by taking him to this distant hospital.
The scheming of the assigned servants is very annoying to the
settler: the men often feign sickness, to be revenged upon their
masters: several instances of this kind I have seen at a distance of
one hundred and eighty-six, and two hundred miles from Liverpool.
When requested, during my visit to the interior, to see these men,
some were ill, but unable to undergo the fatigue of travelling so far
to the hospital; others suddenly got well, and went to their work,
when medical assistance was so near them: one boasted, that by
methods known to himself he could produce appearances of disease
so as to deceive any medical practitioner; he had but just returned
from the Liverpool hospital, and was always ill, his master informed
me, during the most busy times. The establishment of an hospital at
Goulburn Plains would obviate most of this just cause of complaint
made by the settler.[75]
There is a lunatic asylum at Liverpool, which I also inspected:
there were several patients of both sexes within its walls. The
establishment was small, and the building did not appear to have
been originally constructed for the purpose for which it was used.
 CHAPTER XI.
Second Journey into the interior commenced—Land of roses—The grape
vine—Foreign grain—Missionary rewards—Bargo brush—Small
species of Lobster—Another species—Snakes—Leeches—Mr. Button’s
farm—Proceed on the journey to Gudarigby—Native plants—
Magnificent mountain view—Our repast—The laughing jackass—A
spacious cavern—Its interior—Black swans and other birds.

On the 8th of November I left Sydney for Yas Plains on a second

visit to that interesting part of the colony; again passed over the
“Razor-back Mountain,” upon which road gangs were busily
employed in finishing that line of road,—and arrived in the afternoon
at “Abbotsford,” a very pretty farm belonging to Mr. Harper, near
“Stonequarry Creek:” it was in excellent order; a large quantity of
land was cultivated with grain, having every prospect of a productive
harvest, the whole being in full ear, and verging towards maturity.
The neat garden in front of the dwelling-house bloomed with a
profusion of roses; and at this season of the year so abundant is this
elegant and fragrant flower in the colony, that we may term it a
“Land of Roses,” as well as a “land of promise;” pinks, stocks, and
other European flowers, gave an additional beauty to the scene.
Some portions of land were laid out as vineyards; much attention
being now paid to the cultivation of the vine in the colony. In the
garden a number of gooseberry bushes had been planted, which
were in flourishing condition, and loaded with fruit: it was
considered rare to see them so productive near Sydney, although
they thrive and bear abundance of fruit in the Argyle and Bathurst
districts; but here it was only one part of the garden that was
favourable to their growth, being that where the influence of the sun
was not too powerful during the hot summers: care has also been
taken to shelter the bushes, by small sheets of bark placed upon
sticks at some elevation over them, giving a protection above, but at
the same time not covering them so much as to cause any
deprivation of the vivifying influence of light or moderate solar heat.
Mr. Harper has been trying a great variety of foreign grain on
different colonial soils; among others the Leghorn wheat, the ears of
which are six inches in length, and from the straw the Leghorn
bonnets so well known to the fair sex are manufactured.
Proceeding on my journey; between this farm and Lupton’s Inn, I
was accosted by a native black, who asked me, whether “I white
feller parson,[76] for me want shilling;” but not being of the clerical
profession, I did not consider myself liable to be placed under
contribution, more particularly upon the highway. It occurred to me
at the time, that he must have heard of the five hundred pounds,
granted annually from the colonial funds for their conversion, and
concluded that all clergymen should bestow their shillings on himself
and comrades. We parted with this conditional bargain, that if he
brought me birds and other animals, he should have shillings in
return.
Passing through “Bargo Brush,” the forest was still gay with
flowers, with the additional beauty of the splendid proteacous shrub,
called the “Warratah” or “tulip tree” of the colonists, which now
displayed its brilliant crimson flowers. I remained for the night at
“Mittagong,” and on the afternoon of the 10th arrived at
“Arthursleigh,” the extensive and beautiful farm, the property of
Hannibal M’Arthur, Esq.; I passed here two very agreeable days in
the society of this gentleman and his friends. On the 12th I arrived
at “Goulbourn Plains,” and on the evening of the 14th at “Yas Plains.”
The plains still retained their verdant appearance, although down
the country vegetation was much parched. The river had fallen
considerably since my previous visit. In the river, besides the
quantity of fish there is a small and new species of lobster, which is
also procured in large quantities from the muddy ponds on the Yas
Plains; they are delicious eating, and taken readily by placing a piece
of raw meat on a bent pin: when one is felt at the bait, it is to be
dragged gently to the margin of the pond, (which is very muddy, but
not deep,) and taken on the back by the hand: a number can thus
be caught in a short time. The aborigines call them “Murugonan.”
They burrow deep into the mud, and the blacks capture them by
thrusting the hand into the holes, and dragging them out, although
they often extend to such a depth that the whole length of the arm
is inserted before the animal is secured.[77] The ponds in which the
lobsters are taken are always full of water, being supplied by springs:
one of them was about fifty yards in length by twenty in breadth,
but of no great depth at any part. They form a chain along the
plains during the dry season of the year; but during heavy rains they
unite into a running stream, which empties itself into the Yas river. It
is only at the season, when there is merely a chain of ponds or
swamps, with but little water, that the lobsters can be caught with
facility.
In the Murrumbidgee, Yas, Tumat, and other large rivers, there is
a different and larger species of lobster which is frequently found in
the stomachs of the “river cod.” This kind is called “Mungola” by the
aborigines, and they are captured, measuring a foot and a foot and
a half in length, and weighing three or four pounds. I examined a
small one, captured in the Murrumbidgee at Jugiong; its dimensions
were as follow:—

Inch.
Length of the body 4
Length of the tail 4
Length of the claw 5½
Breadth of the body at the broadest part 2
Breadth of the claw 1⅜
Length of the anterior or external antennæ 7

The colour of the upper surface of the shield was dark green, with
reddish tinges on the sides, the rings of the tail studded with short,
thick spines, and similar but smaller spines on the sides of the
shield: the spines and claws were white: the legs having been pulled
off by the blacks, to prevent their escape during the time they were
employed in catching others. I could not ascertain their colour. They
are found under the large stones in the river, and are taken by the
hand when the rivers are low. The natives usually seek for them in
the evening, or at night by torchlight, and say it is difficult to get
them during the daylight.[78]
Snakes are numerous in various parts of the colony. Those known
among the colonists as the “black and brown snakes,” are found
about the banks of the rivers, or in swampy situations: the natives
(they are not, however, the best authority for the extent of danger a
venomous snake produces) say that its bite is not deadly, but causes
the person to feel sick and sleepy for a short time, which passes off
without producing any further ill effects, even if no remedy be
applied.
It would be interesting to institute experiments, so that the extent
of danger attending the bites of the venomous reptiles in the colony
might be ascertained with some degree of correctness. As far as
regards this snake, I am well informed by persons who have been
bitten, that the effects are as above stated; but still it would be
interesting to know the degree of violence the poison is capable of
producing in each of the venomous reptiles. I examined a “black
snake,” which had been just killed at the farm of Gudarigby, upon a
“flat” near the river: it was of a shining, silvery, black colour above;
the abdomen being dark red: it measured three feet and a half in
length, and at its largest circumference, three inches: it was a male
specimen. The stomach was filled with a quantity of green frogs with
golden spots; (the Rainette dorée of Péron?) some having the
appearance of being just swallowed, whilst others were half
digested: there was also a mass of digested matter, in which the
remains of frogs could be distinctly seen. This snake appears to be a
species of the genus “Acanthophis.” By the natives of Yas, the black
snake is called “Bulbuk.”
The “brown snake,” which I examined, is also venomous, and,
according to popular opinion, the effect very dangerous upon the
human constitution. The specimen measured nearly five feet in
length, and five inches at its largest circumference; the upper part of
the body was of a brown colour, (from which no doubt its name is
derived,) with a few light shades of black; the abdomen was of a
light, bluish black. In the stomach were found several half-digested
lizards, and a quantity of worms, which in some parts had even
perforated the coats: on a further examination, the lungs were also
found perforated by, and had attached to them, a number of these
worms, varying from one and a half to two inches in length, and of a
bright red colour: I preserved them, together with the lungs, in
spirits, and sent them to the museum of the Royal College of
Surgeons, in London.[79]
There is another dangerous snake, called “yellow snake” by the
colonists, and “Jaruk” by the Yas natives: it attains a large size, and
has the reputation of being very venomous, the bite producing
almost immediate death.[80] The most deadly snake in appearance,
and I believe also in effect, is one of hideous aspect, called by the
colonists the “death adder,” and by the Yas natives “Tammin,” from
having a small curved process at the extremity of the tail, or, more
correctly, the tail terminating suddenly in a small curved extremity,
bearing some resemblance to a sting, it is considered by popular
rumour to inflict a deadly sting with it.
This hideous reptile is thick in proportion to its length; the eye is
vivid yellow, with a black longitudinal pupil; the colour of the body is
difficult to be described, being a complication of dull colours, with
narrow, blackish bands, shaded off into the colours which compose
the back; abdomen slightly tinged with red; head broad, thick, and
flattened. The specimen I examined measured two feet two inches
in length, and five inches in circumference. It is, I believe, an
undescribed species.[81] A dog that was bitten by one, died in less
than an hour. The specimen I examined was found coiled up near
the banks of the Murrumbidgee river; and being of a torpid
disposition, did not move when approached, but quietly reposed in
the pathway, with its head turned beneath the belly.
 The “diamond snake” is handsome, attains a large size, and I
believe is not considered venomous. It is said, that when cattle are
bitten by a venomous snake, they resort immediately to the water. A
cow was found lying dead near the river, at “Gudarigby,” during the
time I visited the farm, and from appearances the body presented,
the stock-keepers formed an opinion that its death was produced by
the bite of a venomous snake.
Leeches are abundant in all the “water holes” about this part of
the colony, and are used for medicinal purposes: they are of a black
colour, with longitudinal orange lines extending the whole length of
the body, the abdomen being of a dark orange colour. They are in
great demand at Sydney, as few or none are found in its vicinity.
On the 19th of November I visited the farm at “Gudarigby,” the
property of W. H. Dutton, Esq., in company with his brother, Mr. F.
Dutton, and Mr. Manton. We remained the first night in the bark hut
erected on Mr. Manton’s farm. Snakes of the black and brown
species were numerous at this place, no doubt arising from the
location being close to the Murrumbidgee river. We had sufficient
proof of the existence of these reptiles, from seeing several which
had recently been destroyed by the men on the farm; one had
dropped from the back shed upon a man’s bed during the night, and
occasioned him to quit, and leave the reptile in undisturbed
possession for the remainder of the night: in the morning, search
was made, the reptile discovered among the blankets, and killed: it
was a “black snake,” and measured full three feet in length. The
warm valley in which the farm is situated, as well as its being near
the river, must make it an agreeable retreat to the reptiles. We,
however, slept through the night without experiencing any visits
from them, although we often expected to feel their cold bodies
gliding over and awakening us, from pleasant dreams to
disagreeable realities.
The following morning we proceeded on the journey to
“Gudarigby,” over a hilly and broken, but still romantic and beautiful
country; with a variety of flowering plants spread over the luxuriant,
verdant declivities and flats, casting different hues over the soil;
among them the delicate and beautiful orchideous plant called
“fringed violet” by the colonists, the Thysanotus junceus of
botanists, was particularly abundant: its elegant lilac-coloured
flowers, in clusters of from three to six upon the same stalk were
very conspicuous. The “native hyacinth,” and others of the Orchideæ
family, with white, dark red, yellow, and pink flowers, were
abundant.
After proceeding full six miles over a rich but broken country,
fertile flats, and limestone hills, the declivities rich in herbage, but
the summits arid, rocky, and bare of verdure,—we arrived at
“Narrángullen,” a fine flat, abounding in excellent pasturage, with
thickly wooded hills. This was formerly a sheep station, but deserted
from the great losses sustained by the sheep devouring their lambs.
[82]

From this place we passed up a gully, bounded by lofty mountains,

thinly-wooded, which brought us to the almost perpendicular ascent
of an elevated mountain, which certainly gave me a few ideas of
what Nature’s roads may have been in this colony before the
formation of new ones came into fashion. This I was told, was one
road to the farm, and the shortest, but there was another for drays
not so steep, but many miles further round; by that one we
proposed returning as soon as the visit to the farm was concluded.
We led our horses, or rather they scrambled up this steep acclivity,
to the summit of a ridge of mountains, from which the view was
magnificent; it seemed as if Nature had sported with her
superfluities in the formation of this country; mountains over
mountains heaped: some were thinly and others densely covered
with timber; the tout ensemble formed a splendid specimen of wild
and romantic scenery. About the elevated ridges, the black-wattle
acacias, in full bloom, were numerous, and their fresh and verdant
foliage was well contrasted by the arid melancholy appearance of
the Eucalypti trees around. A descent more gradual than the ascent,
with the soil covered by long thick grass, brought us to a well-
watered flat through which the Murrumbidgee river, and large creek,
flowed; and in this place (completely surrounded by the river and
creek, and consequently rendered impassable during floods
produced by the rains) the farm was situated.
This place, secluded by lofty-wooded mountains, and in a situation
of great romantic beauty, cannot be valuable except as a cattle run,
for which, from the abundance of grass and excellent supply of
water, a better selection could not be made, but for sheep the
situation is too moist. After rather a laborious and fatiguing journey,
we enjoyed, in a neat and clean hut, some fine river cod fish, tea,
and delicious rich milk, and our horses had, in this fine valley,
excellent grass. Among the feathered animals which abound here, is
the Dacelo gigantea, Temm., better known to the colonists and
strangers by the appellation of “Laughing or Feathered Jackass.”[83]
Its peculiar gurgling laugh, commencing from a low, and gradually
rising to a high and loud tone, is often heard by the traveller in all
parts of the colony, sending forth its deafening noises whilst
remaining perched upon the lofty branch of a tree watching for prey;
it is respected by gardeners for destroying grubs, &c. The natives at
Yas call the bird “Gogera,” or “Gogobera,” probably from its peculiar
note, which has some resemblance to the sound of the word. It is
said that one seldom laughs without being accompanied by a
second, forming a very harmonious duet.
This bird, from its devouring mice and venomous reptiles,
deserves protection; (hawks also destroy snakes in this colony.) A
gentleman told me that he was perfectly aware of the bird
destroying snakes, as he had often seen them carry the reptiles to a
tree, and break their heads to pieces with their sharp strong beaks;
he also said he had known them destroy chickens soon after they
were hatched, and carry away eggs, breaking the shell with their
sharp beaks, to get at their contents. One of these birds, seen upon
the branch of a tree near a river, looking so stupid, and nodding as if
asleep, was shot, and it was then found that this peculiar manner
proceeded from having swallowed a small snake, which had got into
the stomach, throat, and bill, but had not yet accommoded itself in
the former cavity.
It is not uncommon to see these birds fly up with a long snake
pending from their beak, the bird holding the reptile by the neck,
just behind the head; but as the snake hangs down without motion,
and appears dead, it is probable that the bird destroys them upon
the ground before it conveys them into the tree. From these
circumstances, although they may now and then “make away” with
an egg, or recently hatched chicken, by mistake for other food, yet
there ought to be a prohibition against their being injured, as the
vermin destroyed by them amply repay such trifling losses. This is
the first bird heard in the morning, and the last (among the day-
birds) at night; it rises with the dawn, when the woods re-echo with
its gurgling laugh; at sunset they are again heard, and as that
glorious orb sinks in the westward, a last “good night” is given in its
peculiar tones to all within hearing.
At this farm, close to the Murrumbidgee river, and on the almost
perpendicular side of a limestone hill, which rises in the midst of this
wooded valley, the rocks partially scattered with herbage, shrubs,
and stunted casuarina-trees, is the entrance to a spacious cavern;
there are others of smaller size sprinkled about different parts of the
same mass of limestone, but this seems to be the most spacious;
they were originally pointed out by the natives to the overseer of the
farm, but were first explored by Mr. Dutton, and some friends.
The day after our arrival we visited the cave, taking materials to
produce a light, by which we might explore these recesses with
more facility. The approach to this cavern is through a thick jungle of
grass, reeds, veronica, fern brake, (Pteris,) &c.: much caution is
required, more particularly when on horseback, on account of the
number of wombat burrows which abound about the spot. A slight
ascent brought us to the spacious and lofty entrance into which the
horses were easily led, and conveniently stabled; this may be truly
said to form the waiting-hall for admission into the two ranges of
chambers which branch off in different directions, as seen in the
accompanying diagram of a supposed section.

GUDARIGBY CAVERNS.

A. Entrance to the great cavern.

B. Entrance to the lesser cavern.
C. The “Grand Hall” of the Cavern; lofty and most spacious.
D. Second Cavern, not extensive, but there are several small caverns above
it.
E. Termination of the great cavern.

The entrance is probably about eighteen or twenty feet broad, and

thirty or forty feet high, abounding in large stalactites, incrusting and
pending from all parts of the interior, as well as separate masses like
columns, supporting the roof. Having made a fire and lighted our
torches, we entered the cavern to the right, [A in the diagram,] and
ascending over some loose earth, entered a narrow vestibule,
capable of admitting only one person at a time; it was encrusted
above, and on all sides, by stalactites of various forms which
presented a glittering appearance, as the light from the torches fell
upon them. A number of a small species of bat, disturbed by our
presence in their dark retreat, flew about, and we captured many of
them: several of their skeletons pending from the rocks, indicated
that it afforded them a mausoleum, as well as a retreat during life.
 As we proceeded, the cavern became more lofty and expansive;
but although able, from the elevation, to walk erect, we were
obliged to take care of occasional projections from the rocks on each
side. As the light from the torches fell upon the white glittering
fantastic forms of the stalactites which hung from the roofs and
covered the sides, the effect was highly pleasing. We came at last to
a descent of fine loose earth, in which some wombats had been
burrowing, and much care was necessary to avoid falling into the
gaping entrances. The descent having been effected, we found
ourselves in the most lofty, beautiful, and spacious part of this
extensive cavern; we termed it the “grand hall:” immense masses of
stalactites, (to which fancied resemblance of forms had occasioned
the names of the altar, organ-pipes, &c., to be given,) had a
beautiful appearance: enormous pending stalactites adorned the
lofty roof, and the whole scene had by torchlight an inconceivably
grand and splendid effect. At several places the ground upon which
we walked gave a hollow sound when struck, and masses of
decomposed limestone were abundantly mingled with a fine black
earth. Proceeding some distance further, we arrived at the
termination.[84]
After our return from exploring the great cavern, we entered the
smaller one; [B in the diagram;] its extent is limited, but the
stalactites within were of great beauty and variety of forms; my
attention was here attracted by the multitude of small bones mingled
with dust, which lay near and about the entrance of this cavern; how
they came in this situation merits enquiry, for here alone did I
observe them; they appeared belonging to some animals of the
Rodentia family, consisting of skulls and other portions of the
skeleton, some, indeed nearly the whole, were in a perfect
condition: near the spot I picked up a small mass of stalactite, which
appeared to have been broken off from some portion of the cavern,
but its exact position I could not discover, in which small bones,
similar to those scattered about, were imbedded. The specimen I
preserved and sent to England.[85]
 The atmosphere of the inner chamber of the large cavern is at
times so close and confined as to produce sickness and violent head-
ache, and cause many to faint who visit it, but we experienced no
inconvenience, for although a hot wind blew outside from the north-
east in strong and oppressive gusts, the inside of the cavern was
cool and agreeable. The length of the cavern may, at a guess, be
one hundred and twenty yards, or even more; and the large
entrance is about sixty yards distant from the Murrumbidgee river.
The view, from the front of the cavern, of the exterior country was
beautiful: swallows’ nests, as well as the restless birds themselves,
were numerous; and the “Currijong-tree” was also seen growing
about the limestone ranges. The swamp oaks, or “Plow’y,” of the
aborigines grew here in abundance, indicating by their presence the
course of the river.
The aborigines will not venture into the dark recesses of the
cavern for fear of the “dibbil-dibbil,” as they express it. In a small
cave attached to this cavern a number of human bones had recently
been found, which it was afterwards ascertained were those of a
native female, and had been deposited here, (in accordance with a
custom among the aborigines of placing the bodies of deceased
friends and relations in caverns, hollow trunks of trees, &c.) about
twenty years before.
The black swans (Anas plutonia) were at certain spots numerous
about the river; they lay several eggs of a light bluish tinge, but at
this season the young birds were seen in the river, as also the young
of the different species of wild ducks, teal, &c., which are numerous
in the colony; although neither the young of the black swans or
ducks can yet fly, still nature has provided them with a rapidity of
motion in the water which baffles pursuers: this excites surprise in
those who witness the manner these little half-fledged creatures
swim and dive, so as effectually to avoid their numerous enemies. A
tyro, thinking it an easy task to capture them, “as they cannot fly,”
enters the river for the purpose of taking some of the ducklings, but
returns exhausted after a fatiguing chase, without procuring one to
reward his trouble, marvelling, as he directs his steps homeward,
completely crest-fallen, how the little imps could have escaped.
 CHAPTER XII.
Native dogs—Their tenacity of life—Return to Yas Plains—The Australian
raspberry—Native cherry-tree—The summer season—Tree hoppers—
Their clamour—Gannets—Country about the Tumat river—Bugolong
—The Black range—A storm—Vicinity of rivers—Native blacks—Their
costume and weapons—Wheat-fields—Destructive birds—Winding
course of the Murrumbidgee.

Three dingos, or native dogs, (the “Warragul” of the aborigines,

Canis Australasiæ, Dem.[86]) were seen about the hills at
“Gudarigby,” and the howling of the kangaroo dogs during the night,
was the first indication of their prowling about; they are the wolves
of the colony, and are perhaps unequalled for cunning. These
animals breed in the holes of rocks; a litter was found near Yas
Plains, which the discoverer failed to destroy, thinking to return and
catch the mother also, and thus destroy the whole family; but the
“old lady” must have been watching him, for on his returning a short
time after, he found all the little dingos had been carried away, and
he was never able, although diligent search was made in the vicinity,
to discover their place of removal. The cunning displayed by these
animals, and the agony they can endure, without evincing the usual
effects of pain, would seem almost incredible, had it not been
related by those on whose testimony every dependence can be
placed. The following are a few among a number of extraordinary
instances.
One had been beaten so severely that it was supposed all the
bones were broken, and it was left for dead. After the person had
walked some distance, upon accidentally looking back, his surprise
was much excited by seeing “master dingo” rise, shake himself, and
march into the bush, evading all pursuit.—One, supposed dead, was
brought into a hut, for the purpose of undergoing “decortication;” at
the commencement of the skinning process upon the face, the only
perceptible movement was a slight quivering of the lips, which was
regarded at the time as merely muscular irritability: the man, after
skinning a very small portion, left the hut to sharpen his knife, and
returning found the animal sitting up, with the flayed integument
hanging over one side of the face.
Another instance was that of a settler, who, returning from a
sporting expedition, with six kangaroo dogs, they met a dingo, which
was attacked by the dogs, and worried to such a degree, that finding
matters becoming serious, and that the worst of the sport came to
his share, the cunning dingo pretended to be dead;—thinking he had
departed the way of all dogs, they gave him a parting shake, and
left him. Unfortunately for the poor dingo, he was of an impatient
disposition, and was consequently premature in his resurrection, for
before the settler and his dogs had gone any distance, he was seen
to rise and skulk away, but on account of the rough treatment he
had received, at a slow pace; the dogs soon re-attacked him, when
he was handled in a manner that must have eventually prevented
any resuscitation taking place a second time.
These instances may account for the fact why skeletons of the
animals are not found in places where they have been left supposed
dead. I have more than once been taken where one had been killed,
as I desired to have a skeleton; but no remains of the beast were
visible in the majority of instances; and crows and hawks do not
devour animals, bones and all, in this country.[87] The following
anecdote proves that the “dingos,” although cowards when chances
are against them, will, like the Chinese, stand battle when numbers
and chance of victory are on their side. A native dog attacked a calf,
which was driven by a man having a kangaroo dog with him. The
hound immediately set upon the dingo, but four more coming to the
assistance of their comrade, they tore the kangaroo dog very
severely; but the man, by aid of shouting and sticks, drove them
away, after much difficulty.
On the 26th of November I returned from “Gudarigby” to Yas
Plains, by a longer but better road than that by which I came;
passing through a fine open forest and luxuriant pasture land, the
distance being eight or nine miles further than by scrambling over
the ranges. The Rubus australis, or Australian raspberry, (char,
mut’h, mut’h of the Yas natives,) was abundant. The fruit is small,
devoid of flavour, but might, perhaps, be improved by cultivation. It
may also be an interesting experiment to ascertain how far the
Exocarpus cupressiforme, or native cherry-tree, may be made to
produce a good edible fruit by grafting or culture. The greatest
elevation I have seen this tree attain has been thirty to forty feet,
and a diameter of a foot to a foot and a half: the fruit is
insignificant, and almost tasteless. There is another species of
Exocarpus abundant about Goulburn Plains, and other parts of the
colony, shrubby, seldom attaining more than five or six feet
elevation; bearing a white, instead of a red fruit, as in the other
species just mentioned. The Eucalypti trees were now covered with
a profusion of white blossoms, attracting multitudes of parroquets,
who revel in the sweets afforded by the nectaries.
As the summer season was now fully set in, (December,) the
previous silence of the woods was broken by the incipient, shrill,
chirping noises which resounded over them, occasioned by the male
Tettigoniæ, or tree hoppers, emerging from the larva into the
winged state; the cases the fly had left, being seen on almost every
tree or post. This genus is remarkable for the instrument with which
it cuts grooves in the wood for the purpose of depositing its eggs.
The musical organs, or drums, only found in the males, are not less
interesting; and the best published account respecting them is that
by Reamur, quoted in the very interesting work, entitled “Insect
Miscellanies.” The aborigines call these insects “Galang, galang,” and
formerly used them as food; first stripping off the wings, they ate
them in the raw state; that is, as the native blacks told me at Yas,
“when no white feller here, and black feller no get bread or yam.”
My notice was particularly directed by the natives to the drums in
the male insects, as the means by which they produced their thrilling
sounds; at the same time adding, in their peculiar English, “Old
woman Galang, galang, no got, no make a noise;” implying that the
females do not possess these musical instruments. There are several
species of this genus known in Australia. During rain, these insects
are silent; but recommence their clamour on the reappearance of
fine weather. The native blacks at Goulburn Plains told me that the
manna produced by one of the Eucalypti trees, (E. mannifera,) was
the excrement of this insect: this, probably, arose in their minds,
from these insects appearing on the trees in the winged state, about
the same time that the manna is secreted.
Several gannets had lately been shot, about the Murrumbidgee
and Yas rivers, with plumage of a brownish black colour, bills and
legs black: there was, also, a bird occasionally seen in this part of
the colony, bearing a close resemblance to the swift, but only seen
during the months of February and March, frequenting spots where
the grass was on fire, to catch insects, &c. The aborigines of Yas
name it “Kriolon,” or “Kriola.”
On the 7th of December, I left Yas for the purpose of visiting the
but little known country about the Tumat river. The roads were in
excellent condition at this season, and the country around resembled
an extensive park. The grass was luxuriant and verdant, having not
yet been parched by the summer heats; and travelling was now very
agreeable. After passing “Durramgullen,” (a station belonging to Mr.
Barber,) and Bowning Hill, or Mountain,[88] (a conspicuous object
from all parts of the Yas Plains,) I arrived at “Bugolong,” a cattle
station, at the distance of thirteen miles from Yas, belonging to Mr.
Hunt, but better known as “Carrol’s Station,”[89] from the name of
the overseer or stock-keeper in charge.
I remained here a short time to refresh the horse, as at this
station there was abundance of fine grass. The roads were now
good; but in the winter season, during wet weather, are almost
impassable. The country in its general appearance is broken, but
very picturesque; abounding in grass, but in most parts too moist for
sheep, although excellent for cattle, which fatten amazingly upon
these “runs.” The “Black range” of mountains was passed at the
“gap,” through which the road passes before arriving at this station.
The waters, flowing from the east side of the “Black range,” fall into
the Yas, and those from the west into the Murrumbidgee river; and
the Yas empties or unites itself with the Murrumbidgee only a short
distance from this station. I was soon again on my journey, being
desirous of reaching “Jugiong” by the evening, from which I was
now distant eighteen miles.
Before I had proceeded many miles, some heavy clouds which had
collected from the westward, poured down a deluge of rain,
accompanied by violent peals of thunder and vivid lightning: the
electric fluid burst with such crashing sounds, that I expected to see
the trees shattered in ten thousand pieces by my side. Not having
encumbered myself with a cloak, I was fully exposed to the pelting
for nearly half an hour, when wind, rain, and accompaniments
subsiding, the reappearance of the sun soon dissipated the moisture
from the ground, as also from myself; and by the time I arrived at
the end of my journey, my apparel was as dry as when I set out.
Although this would have been in our English climate an occurrence
injurious to health, yet here it is rare that any ill effects arise from it;
the same remark may equally apply to the custom of sleeping in the
bush at night when travelling, from which no traveller has been
known to sustain injury. The road continued excellent as I
proceeded; but during the wet season is probably (being similar to
that before passed over) nearly impassable. The feature of the
country was open forest, abounding in luxuriant grass: occasionally a
denser forest would vary the scene; the hills were thinly wooded,
and the declivities carpeted with verdure.
At last, the gloomy appearance and peculiar growth of the
“swamp oaks” indicated the vicinity of a creek, which emptied itself
into the Murrumbidgee river; and, on ascending the hill near it, the
ripe wheat field, and mud hovel appeared; and large “swamp oaks,”
“water gum,” and other trees, directed my attention to the situation
where the Murrumbidgee river flowed: this was the station named
“Jugiong,” the property of Henry O’Brien, Esq.; and, descending the
hill, I arrived at the dirty hut of the station, my only place of rest for
the night, after a journey of thirty-six miles.
 I found in this, as in other instances, more animation and beauty
in the vicinity of a river, than in other portions of the land; imparting
cheerfulness to the traveller, as well as to the whole animal creation.
The numerous feathered tribe welcome him with songs and
chirpings, rarely heard in the less watered and gloomy places, so
much abounding in the colony: a livelier green is seen in the foliage
of the trees; pasturage and flowering shrubs cast a beauty over the
soil, and the journey about such places is less fatiguing, because it is
more interesting and cheering. It was not long since that marked
trees alone guided the traveller to these stations; whereas, now a
well-beaten road, passable even for gigs, has been formed, making
travelling upon it very agreeable.
On my arrival at this station, I found a number of the native blacks
collected about, all, even the ladies, in a state of nudity, “naked, but
not ashamed:” some were busily employed in making rude spears,
by sharpening the point of a long stick, which was afterwards
hardened in the fire: they were preparing to hunt their “evening
prey.” “Give them,” the men at the stations observe, “ever so much
bread or meat, still they will hunt opossum and other game.” The
spears they used, were twelve or fourteen feet in length. On a sunny
day, when there is little wind, the water clear, and comparatively
tranquil, the aborigines go on the river in small bark canoes to spear
fish, more particularly about the rocky parts of the river, and usually
return with a large quantity: they also spear the “water-mole,”
(Ornithorynchus,) if they observe any during the river excursion.
Nothing comes amiss to the blacks for food: they may be said to
devour “every living thing that runs upon the surface of the earth, or
in the waters beneath.”
I was examining the fine muscular structure, and the raised
cicatrices, which were numerous over the arms and chest, of one of
the natives, (and which he regarded as highly ornamental,) when,
puzzled to ascertain the meaning of my curiosity, after I had
finished, he whispered to the stock-keeper, if “he white feller
gentleman ever see black feller before.” But as for procuring an
examination of their phrenological organs, it was a labour of some
difficulty, and even danger; for they seemed to regard it as
witchcraft, or some magic ceremony: and when they even did
submit, they evinced much fear, and preserved a very serious
countenance during the operation, as if dreading the result; similar
to young ladies, when under Deville’s hands for the same purpose,
their secretiveness and caution being overcome in some degree, by
curiosity.[90]
The field of wheat at this station being just ripe, a man was
obliged to be almost constantly on the watch, to prevent the “white
cockatoos” from attacking and destroying it. These birds are named
“Wagara,” or “Muruen,” by the aborigines: they were not yet very
numerous, as the harvest was earlier than usual; but last year, I was
told, the season was later, and the crops were nearly destroyed, for
they came in immense flocks; and although many were killed, it did
not deter the others from attacking the grain. The reason given, why
they were not now so numerous, was, that the young cockatoos
were not sufficiently fledged to leave the nest; so the reaper’s song
might be, “Fly not yet, little cockies;” for the old birds, rearing their
progeny in a way to provide themselves with the necessaries of life,
bring them in multitudes to attack a field of corn or grain, and are
then so bold, as to be with great difficulty frightened away, although
the deaths of hundreds may be the consequence; but, fortunately
for the settler, the harvest was this season in a more forward state,
and the little cockies not being in “full feather,” there was
comparatively but few marauders.
The way “the mob” of these screaming and destructive birds
attack a field of grain, (or the cobs of corn in a maize field,) is to fly
against, bear down the stalks with their weight, perch upon the
fallen ears, and speedily destroy them.[91] Like all the parrot tribe,
they construct no nest, but lay their eggs in a hollow branch or
“spout” of a tree, clearing it of the rotten wood within, except a
small quantity at the bottom, on which the eggs are laid, and the
young ones afterwards repose.