Black Decker The Complete Guide To Wiring Updated 8th Edition Current With 2020 2023 Electrical

The Complete Guide to
WIRING
Updated 8th Edition
Current with 2020—2023 Electrical Codes

Contents
Introduction
WORKING SAFELY WITH WIRING

How Electricity Works
Glossary of Electrical Terms
Understanding Electrical Circuits
Grounding & Polarization
Home Wiring Tools
Wiring Safety
WIRE, CABLE & CONDUIT

Wire & Cable
NM Cable
Conduit
BOXES & PANELS

Electrical Boxes
Installing Boxes
Electrical Panels
SWITCHES
Wall Switches
Types of Wall Switches
Specialty Switches
Testing Switches
RECEPTACLES
Types of Receptacles
Receptacle Wiring
GFCI Receptacles
Testing Receptacles
PRELIMINARY WORK
Planning Your Project
Highlights of the National Electrical Code
Room by Room Wiring
CIRCUIT MAPS
Common Household Circuits
COMMON WIRING PROJECTS
GFCI & AFCI Breakers
Surge-Protective Devices
Service Panels
Grounding & Bonding a Wiring System
Subpanels
120/240-Volt Dryer Receptacles
120/240-Volt Range Receptacles
Dryer and Range Cords
Adding an Outdoor Receptacle
Ceilings Lights
Recessed Ceiling Lights
Track Lights
Undercabinet Lights
Vanity Lights
Low-Voltage Cable Lights
Hardwired Smoke & CO Alarms
Landscape Lights
Doorbells
Wireless Switches
Baseboard Heaters
Wall Heaters
Underfloor Radiant Heat Systems
Ceiling Fans
Remote-Control Ceiling Fan Retrofit
Bathroom Exhaust Fans
Range Hoods
Backup Power Supply
Installing a Transfer Switch
Outbuildings
Motion-Sensing Floodlights
REPAIR PROJECTS
Repairing Light Fixtures
Repairing Chandeliers
Repairing Ceiling Fans
Repairing Fluorescent Lights
Replacing Plugs & Cords
Replacing a Lamp Socket
COMMON WIRING PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS

Service Panels & Grounding
Cables & Wires
Boxes
Cords
Receptacles & Switches
Light Fixtures
Conversions
Resources
Index
Introduction
T his newly updated,

8th edition of
BLACK+DECKER The
Complete Photo Guide to
Wiring is a
comprehensive, user-
friendly guide to home
wiring projects big and
small. It teaches you
everything you need to
know to safely complete
the most common
electrical upgrades, from
installing a new smart switch to roughing in cables
and boxes to wiring a room addition. You do not need
to be an expert to tackle these kinds of projects, but
you do need to have the right knowledge. This book
is updated to the 2020 edition of the National
Electrical Code (NEC), the primary industry
reference behind local code requirements.
When you obtain a permit for your project (this is

typically required for anything beyond simple swap-
outs, like replacing an old switch or fixture), your
work will be examined by an inspector to ensure it
satisfies the local electrical code. Consult the local
code authority for all details pertaining to your
project. Local codes always supersede national codes.
Here are a few of the key updates in the 2020 NEC

that are likely to affect home wiring projects:
GFCI Receptacles
Ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection is
required for all 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles
in select areas. Previous versions of the NEC
required GFCI protection only for 125-volt, 15- and
20-ampere receptacles. With the 2020 change, GFCI
protection is required for 240-volt dryer receptacles
as well as 240-volt range receptacles in kitchens (if
the range receptacle is within 6 feet of a sink).
Surge Protection
Surge protection is required for new and replacement
service equipment (such as a home’s main service
panel or breaker box). Approved surge-protective
devices (SPD) are designed to protect the entire
household system from electrical surges. Surge
protection is intended to minimize damage to
electronics, motors, and other devices and equipment
that are sensitive to electrical surges.
Emergency Disconnect
Outdoor emergency disconnects are required for
home services in new construction, homes
undergoing renovation, and all service replacements.
An exterior disconnect is an important safety feature
that allows emergency crews to shut off the power
safely before entering the home. Disconnects can
include main circuit breakers within outdoor-
accessible service panels, or they may be disconnect
switches in their own outdoor enclosures (typically
installed near the utility meter). Disconnects must be
clearly labeled with wording that is specific to the
disconnect type.
Working Safely with Wiring
T he only way you

can possibly manage
home wiring projects
safely is to understand
how electricity works
and how it is delivered
from the street to the
outlets in your home.
The most essential
quality to appreciate
about electricity is that the typical amount that flows
through the wires in your home can be fatal if you
contact it directly. Sources estimate that there are
about 45,000 electrical fires each year causing 440
deaths, 1,250 injuries, and 1.3 billion dollars in
property damage. Home wiring can be a very
satisfying task for do-it-yourselfers, but if you don’t
know what you’re doing or are in any way
uncomfortable with the idea of working around
electricity, do not attempt it. This chapter explains the
fundamental principles behind the electrical circuits
that run through our homes. It also includes some
basic tips for working safely with wiring, and it
introduces you to the essential tools you’ll need for
the job. The beginner should consider it mandatory
reading. Even if you have a good grasp of electrical
principles, take some time to review the material. A
refresher course is always useful.
In this chapter:
• How Electricity Works
• Glossary of Electrical Terms
• Understanding Electrical Circuits
• Grounding & Polarization
• Home Wiring Tools
• Wiring Safety
How Electricity Works
A household electrical system can be compared
with a home’s plumbing system. Electrical current
flows in wires in much the same way that water flows
inside pipes. Both electricity and water enter the
home, are distributed throughout the house, do their
“work,” and exit.
In plumbing, water first flows through the
pressurized water supply system. In electricity,
current first flows along hot wires. Current flowing
along hot wires also is pressurized. Electrical
pressure is called voltage.
Large supply pipes can carry a greater volume of
water than small pipes. Likewise, large electrical
wires carry more current than small wires. This
electrical current-carrying capacity of wires is called
ampacity.
Water is made available for use through the
faucets, spigots, and showerheads in a home.
Electricity is made available through receptacles,
switches, and fixtures.
Water finally leaves the home through a drain
system, which is not pressurized. Similarly, electrical
current flows back through neutral wires. The current
in neutral wires is not pressurized and is at zero volts,
when everything is functioning as intended. Do not
assume, however, that the neutral is at zero volts.
Several defects can put voltage on the neutral, so
treat the neutral as a hot wire until demonstrated
otherwise.
Water and electricity both flow. The main difference is that you can see
water (and touching water isn’t likely to kill you). Like electricity, water
enters a fixture under high pressure and exits under no pressure.
The Delivery System
Electricity that enters the home is produced by large

power plants. Power plants are located in all parts of
the country and generate electricity with generators
that are turned by water, wind, or steam. From these
plants electricity enters large “step-up” transformers
that increase voltage to half a million volts or more.
Electricity flows at these high voltages and travels
through high-voltage transmission wires to
communities that can be hundreds of miles from the
power plants. “Step-down” transformers located at
substations then reduce the voltage for distribution
along street wires. On utility power poles, smaller
transformers further reduce the voltage to ordinary
120-volt electricity for household use.
Wires carrying electricity to a house either run
underground or are strung overhead and attached to a
piece of conduit called a service mast. Most homes
built after 1950 have three wires running to the
service head: two power wires, each carrying 120
volts, and a grounded neutral wire. Electricity from
the two 120-volt wires may be combined at the
service panel to supply electricity to large 240-volt
appliances such as clothes dryers or electric water
heaters.
Incoming electricity passes through a meter that
measures electricity consumption. Electricity then
enters the service panel, where it is distributed to
circuits that run throughout the house. The service
panel also contains circuit breakers or fuses that shut
off power to the individual circuits in the event of a
short circuit or an overload. Certain high-current
appliances, such as microwave ovens, are usually
plugged into their own individual circuits to prevent
overloads.
Voltage ratings determined by power companies
and manufacturers have changed over the years.
These changes do not affect the performance of new
devices connected to older wiring. For making
electrical calculations, use a rating of 120 volts or
240 volts for your circuits.
Power plants supply electricity to thousands of homes and businesses.
Step-up transformers increase the voltage produced at the plant.
Substations are located near the communities they serve. A typical
substation takes electricity from high-voltage transmission wires and
reduces it for distribution along street wires.
Electrical transformers reduce the high-voltage electricity that flows
through wires along neighborhood streets. A utility pole transformer—or
ground transformer—reduces voltage from 10,000 volts to the normal 120-
volt electricity used in households.
Parts of the Electrical System
GLOSSARY OF ELECTRICAL TERMS
Ampere (or amp): Refers to the rate at which electrical

current flows to a light, tool, or appliance.
Armored cable: An assembly of insulated wires enclosed in
a flexible, interlocked metallic armor. Abbreviated “AC.”
Box: A device used to contain wiring connections.
Cable: Two or more wires that are grouped together and
protected by a covering or sheath.
Circuit: A continuous loop of electrical current flowing
along wires.
Circuit breaker: A safety device that interrupts an electrical
circuit in the event of an overload or short circuit.
Conductor: Any material that allows electrical current to
flow through it. Copper wire is an especially good conductor.
Conduit: A metal or plastic pipe used to protect wires.
Continuity: An uninterrupted electrical pathway through a
circuit or electrical fixture.
Current: The flow of electricity along a conductor.
Duplex receptacle: A receptacle that provides connections
for two plugs.
Flexible metal conduit (FMC): Hollow, coiled steel or
aluminum tubing that may be filled with wires (similar to
armored cable, but AC is prewired).
Fuse: A safety device, usually found in older homes, that
interrupts electrical circuits during an overload or short
circuit.
Greenfield: A brand name for an early type of flexible metal
conduit. The current term is flexible metal conduit. Note:
flexible metal conduit is different from armored cable.
Grounded wire: See neutral wire.
Grounding wire: A wire used in an electrical circuit to
conduct current to the service panel in the event of a ground
fault. The grounding wire often is a bare copper wire or a
green insulated wire.
Hot wire: Any wire that carries voltage. In an electrical
circuit, the hot wire usually is covered with black or red
insulation.
Insulator: Any material, such as plastic or rubber, that
resists the flow of electrical current. Insulating materials
protect wires and cables.
Junction box: See box.
Meter: A device used to measure the amount of electrical
power being used.
Neutral wire: A wire that returns current at zero voltage to
the source of electrical power. Usually covered with white or
light gray insulation. Also called the grounded wire.
Nonmetallic sheathed cable: NM cable consists of two or
more insulated conductors and, in most cases, a bare ground
wire housed in a durable PVC casing.
Outlet: A place where electricity is taken for use. A
receptacle is a common type of outlet. A box for a ceiling fan
is another type of outlet.
Overload: A demand for more current than the circuit wires
or electrical device was designed to carry. This should cause
a circuit breaker to trip or a fuse to blow.
Pigtail: A short wire used to connect two or more wires to a
single screw terminal.
Polarized receptacle: A receptacle designed to keep hot
current flowing along black or red wires and neutral current
flowing along white or gray wires.
Power: The work performed by electricity for a period of
time. Use of power makes heat, motion, or light.
Receptacle: A device that provides plug-in access to
electricity.
Romex: A brand name of plastic-sheathed electrical cable
that is commonly used for indoor wiring. Commonly known
as nonmetallic, or NM, cable.
Screw terminal: A place where a wire connects to a
receptacle, switch, or fixture.
Service panel: A metal box usually near the site where
electricity enters the house. In the service panel, electrical
current is split into individual circuits. In residences the
service panel has a circuit breaker or a fuse to protect each
circuit.
Short circuit: An accidental and improper contact between
two current-carrying wires or between a current-carrying
wire and a grounding conductor.
Switch: A device that controls electricity passing through
hot circuit wires. Used to turn lights and appliances on and
off.
UL: Formerly known as Underwriters Laboratories, this
organization tests electrical devices and manufactured
products for safety.
Voltage (or volts): A measurement of electricity in terms of
pressure.
Wattage (or watts): A measurement of electrical power in
terms of total work performed. Watts can be calculated by
multiplying the voltage times the amperage.
Wire connector: A device used to connect two or more
wires together. Also called a wire nut.
Understanding Electrical Circuits
A n electrical circuit is a continuous loop.
Household circuits carry electricity from the main
service panel, throughout the house, and back to the
main service panel. Several switches, receptacles,
light fixtures, or appliances may be connected to a
single circuit.
Current enters a circuit loop on hot wires and
returns along neutral wires. These wires are color
coded for easy identification. Hot wires are black or
red, and neutral wires are white or light gray. For
safety, all modern circuits include a bare copper or
green insulated grounding wire. The grounding wire
conducts current in the event of a ground fault (see
here) and helps reduce the chance of severe electrical
shock. The service panel also has a bonding wire
connected to a metal water pipe and a grounding wire
connected to a metal grounding rod, buried
underground, or to another type of grounding
electrode.
If a circuit carries too much current, it can
overload. A fuse or a circuit breaker protects each
circuit in case of overloads.
Current returns to the service panel along a
neutral circuit wire. Current then leaves the house on
a large neutral service wire that returns it to the utility
transformer.
Grounding & Polarization
E lectricity always seeks to return to its source
and complete a continuous circuit. Contrary to
popular belief, electricity will take all available return
paths to its source, not just the path of lowest
resistance. In a household wiring system, this return
path is provided by white neutral wires that return
current to the main service panel. From the service
panel, current returns along the uninsulated neutral
service wire to a power pole transformer.
You will see the terms grounding and bonding
used in this and other books about electricity. These
terms are often misunderstood. You should
understand the difference to safely work on electrical
circuits.
Bonding connects the noncurrent-carrying metal
parts of the electrical system, such as metal boxes
and metal conduit, in a continuous low-resistance
path back to the main service panel. If this metal
becomes energized (a ground fault), current travels
on the bonded metal and quickly increases to an
amount that trips the circuit breaker or blows the
fuse. The dead circuit alerts people to a problem.
Other metal that could become energized also
must be bonded to the home’s electrical system.
Metal water and gas pipes are the most common
examples. A metal water and gas pipe could become
energized by coming in contact with a damaged
electrical wire. Metal gas pipe could become
energized by a ground fault in a gas appliance such as
a furnace.
Bonding is a very important safety system. A
person could receive a fatal shock if he or she
touches energized metal that is improperly bonded,
because that person becomes electricity’s return path
to its source. Bonding is also a fire safety system that
reduces the chance of electrical fires.
Grounding connects the home’s electrical system
to the earth. Grounding’s primary purpose is to help
stabilize voltage fluctuations caused by lightning and
other problems in the electrical grid. Grounding also
provides a secondary return path for electricity in
case there is a problem in the normal return path.
Grounding is accomplished by connecting a wire
between the main service panel and a grounding
electrode. The most common grounding electrode is a
buried copper-coated steel rod. Other grounding
electrodes include reinforcing steel in the footing,
called a ufer ground.
Grounding of the home electrical system is
accomplished by connecting the household electrical
system to the metal water service pipe, if any,
between your house and the street and to another
grounding electrode such as metal grounding
electrodes that are buried in the earth.
After 1920 most American homes included
receptacles that accepted polarized plugs. The two-
slot polarized plug and receptacle was designed to
keep hot current flowing along black or red wires and
neutral current flowing along white or gray wires.
The metal jacket around armored cable and
flexible metal conduit, widely installed in homes
during the 1940s, provided a bonding path. When
connected to metal junction boxes, it provided a
metal pathway back to the service panel. Note,
however, that deterioration of this older cable may
decrease its effectiveness as a bonding conductor.
Modern cable includes a green insulated or bare
copper wire that serves as the bonding path. This
bonding wire is connected to all three-slot receptacles
and metal boxes to provide a continuous pathway for
any ground-fault current. By plugging a three-prong
plug into a grounded three-slot receptacle, people are
protected from ground faults that occur in appliances,
tools, or other electric devices.
Use a receptacle adapter to plug three-prong plugs
into two-slot receptacles, but use it only if the
receptacle connects to a grounding wire or grounded
electrical box. Adapters have short grounding wires
or wire loops that attach to the receptacle’s coverplate
mounting screw. The mounting screw connects the
adapter to the grounded metal electrical box.
Modern NM (nonmetallic) cable, found in most wiring systems installed
after about 1965, contains a bare copper wire that provides bonding for
receptacle and switch boxes.
Armored cable has a flexible metal jacket and contains hot and neutral
wires. It may contain a grounding wire or it may use the metal jacket to
provide the grounding path. Flexible metal conduit (not shown) is sold
empty.
Polarized receptacles have a long slot and a short slot. Used with a
polarized plug, the polarized receptacle keeps electrical current directed for
safety.
Tamper-resistent three-slot receptacles are required by code for new
homes and when replacing existing receptacles. They are usually connected
to a standard two-wire cable with ground.
A receptacle adapter allows three-prong plugs to be inserted into two-slot
receptacles. The adapter should be used only with receptacles mounted in a
bonded metal box, and the grounding loop or wire of the adapter must be
attached to the coverplate mounting screw.
Double-insulated tools have nonconductive plastic bodies to prevent
shocks caused by ground faults. Because of these features, double-insulated
tools can be used safely with ungrounded receptacles.
Home Wiring Tools
T o complete the wiring projects shown in this
book, you need a few specialty electrical tools as well
as a collection of basic hand tools. As with any tool
purchase, invest in quality products when you buy
tools for electrical work. Keep your tools clean, and
sharpen or replace any cutting tools that have dull
edges.
The materials used for electrical wiring have
changed dramatically in the last 20 years, making it
much easier for homeowners to do their own
electrical work. The following pages show how to
work with the following components for your
projects.
Hand tools you’ll need for home wiring projects include a stud
finder/laser level (A) for locating framing members and aligning electrical
boxes; tape measure (B); a cable ripper (C) for scoring NM sheathing;
standard (D) and Phillips (E) screwdrivers; a utility knife (F); side cutters
(G) for cutting wires; channel-type pliers (H) for general gripping and
crimping; linesman pliers (I) that combine side cutter and gripping jaws;
needlenose pliers (J); wire strippers (K) for removing insulation from
conductors.
Use a tool belt to keep frequently used tools within easy reach. Electrical
tapes in a variety of colors are used for marking wires and for attaching
cables to a fish tape.
A fish tape is useful for installing cables in finished wall cavities and for
pulling wires through conduit. Lubrication products reduce friction and
make it easier to pull cables and wires.
Diagnostic tools for home wiring use include a noncontact voltage tester
(A) to safely check wires for current and confirm that circuits are dead; a
plug-in tester (B) to check receptacles for correct polarity, grounding, and
circuit protection; a multimeter (C) to measure AC/DC voltage, AC/DC
current, resistance, capacitance, frequency, and duty cycle (model shown is
an auto-ranging digital multimeter with clamp-on jaws that measure
through sheathing and wire insulation).
Wiring Safety
S afety should be the primary concern of anyone
working with electricity. Although most household
electrical repairs are simple and straightforward,
always use caution and good judgment when working
with electrical wiring or devices. Common sense can
prevent accidents.
The basic rule of electrical safety is always turn
off power to the area or device you are working on.
At the main service panel or at the subpanel (as
applicable), shut off the circuit breaker or remove the
fuse that controls the circuit you are servicing. Then
check to make sure the power is off by testing for
power with a voltage tester.
TIP: Test a live circuit with the voltage tester to verify that it is
working before you rely on it.
Restore power only when the repair or

replacement project is complete.
Follow the safety tips shown on these pages.
Never attempt an electrical project beyond your skill
or confidence level.
Shut power OFF at the main service panel or subpanel where the circuit
originates before beginning any work.
Create a circuit index and affix it to the inside of the door to your main
service panel. Update it as needed.
Confirm power is OFF by testing at the outlet, switch, or fixture with a

voltage tester.
Use only UL-approved electrical parts or devices. These devices have
been tested for safety by Underwriters Laboratories.
Wear rubber-soled shoes while working on electrical projects. On damp

floors, stand on a rubber mat or dry wooden boards.
Use fiberglass or wood ladders when making routine household repairs
near the service mast.
Extension cords are for temporary use only. Cords must be rated for the
intended usage.
Breakers and fuses must be compatible with the panel manufacturer and
match the circuit capacity.
Never alter the prongs of a plug to fit a receptacle. If possible, install a
new grounded receptacle.
Do not penetrate walls or ceilings without first shutting off electrical
power to the circuits that may be hidden.
Wire, Cable & Conduit
W ire, cable, and

conduit comprise the
electrical infrastructure in
your home. Selecting the
appropriate size and type
and handling it correctly
is absolutely necessary to
a successful wiring
project that will pass
inspection.
Copper or aluminum wires are the primary
conductors of electricity in any home. The electricity
itself travels on the outer surfaces of the wire, so
insulation is added to the wires to protect against
shock and fires. The insulated wires are frequently
grouped together and enclosed in sheathing according
to gauge and function. Multiple wires enclosed in
sheathing form a cable. In some cases, the wires are
enclosed in metal or plastic tubes known as conduit.
Conduits and tubing (also known as raceways) are
used primarily in situations where the cables or wires
are exposed, such as in open garage walls.
This chapter introduces some of the many varieties
of wire, cable, and conduit used in home construction
and explains which types to use where. It also will
demonstrate the essential skills used to run new cable,
install conduit, strip sheathing, make wire
connections, and more.
In this chapter:
• Wire & Cable
• NM Cable
• Conduit
Wire & Cable
W ires (known as conductors) are made of
copper or aluminum in most houses. Copper is a
better conductor of electricity and is used in most
houses. Copper-coated aluminum wires may be found
in a few houses built in the early 1970s, but this wire
is uncommon. “Tin”-coated copper wires may be
found in houses built in the 1940s and 1950s.
A group of two or more wires enclosed in a metal,
rubber, cloth, or plastic sheathing is called a cable
(see photo, opposite page). The sheathing protects the
wires from damage and protects people from
electrical shock. Conduit also protects wires, but it is
not considered a cable.
Individual wires are covered with rubber or plastic
insulation. An exception is a bare copper grounding
wire, which does not need insulation. The insulation
is color coded (see chart, below left) to identify the
wire as a hot wire, a neutral wire, or a grounding wire.
New cable sheathing is also color coded to indicate
the size of the wires inside. White means #14 wire,
yellow means #12 wire, and orange means #10 wire.
In most wiring systems installed after 1965, the
wires and cables are insulated with PVC. This type of
insulation is very durable and can last as long as the
house itself.
Before about 1965, wires and cables were
insulated with rubber or cloth. Rubber and cloth
insulation has a life expectancy of about 25 to 30
years. Old insulation that is cracked or damaged can
be reinforced temporarily by wrapping the wire with
plastic electrical tape. However, old wiring with
cracked or damaged insulation should be inspected by
a qualified electrician to make sure it is safe.
Wires must be large enough for the amperage
rating of the circuit (see chart, below right). A wire
that is too small can become dangerously hot. Wire
sizes are categorized according to the American Wire
Gauge (AWG) system. To check the size of a wire,
use the wire stripper openings of a combination tool
(see here) as a guide.
WIRE SIZE CHART
WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
White or Neutral wire carrying current at zero
gray voltage
Black Hot wire carrying current at full voltage
Red Hot wire carrying current at full voltage
White, Hot wire carrying current at full voltage

black
markings
Green Serves as a bonding pathway
Bare Serves as a bonding pathway

copper
Individual wires are color-coded to identify their function. In some
circuit installations, the white wire serves as a hot wire that carries
voltage. If so, this white wire may be labeled with black tape or paint to
identify it as a hot wire.
WIRE SIZE CHART
WIRE GAUGE WIRE CAPACITY & USE
#6 55 amps, 240 volts; central air
conditioner, electric furnace
#8 40 amps, 240 volts; electric range, central

air conditioner
#10 30 amps, 240 volts; window air

conditioner, clothes dryer
#12 20 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,

receptacles, microwave oven
#14 15 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,

receptacles
#16 Light-duty extension cords
#18 to Thermostats, doorbells, security systems

22
Wire sizes (shown actual size) are categorized by the American Wire
Gauge system. The larger the wire size, the smaller the AWG number.
The ampacities in this table are for copper wires in NM cable. The
ampacity for the same wire in conduit is usually more. The ampacity for
aluminum wire is less.
NM Sheathing Colors
Reading NM (Nonmetallic) Cable
NM cable is labeled with the number of insulated wires it contains. The bare
grounding wire is not counted. For example, a cable marked 14/2 G (or 14/2
WITH GROUND) contains two insulated 14-gauge wires, plus a bare copper
grounding wire. Cable marked 14/3 WITH GROUND has three 14-gauge
wires plus a grounding wire. NM cable also is stamped with a maximum
voltage rating, as determined by Underwriters Laboratories (UL).
Reading Unsheathed, Individual Wire
Unsheathed, individual wires are used for conduit and raceway

installations. Wire insulation is coded with letters to indicate resistance to
moisture, heat, and gas or oil. Code requires certain letter combinations for
certain applications. T indicates thermoplastic insulation. H stands for heat
resistance, and two Hs indicate high resistance (up to 194°F). W denotes
wire suitable for wet locations. Wire coded with an N is impervious to
damage from oil or gas.
Use wire connectors (nuts) rated for the wires you are connecting. Wire
connectors are color-coded by size, but the coding scheme varies according
to manufacturer. The wire connectors shown above come from one major
manufacturer. To ensure safe connections, each connector is rated for both
minimum and maximum wire capacity. These connectors can be used to
connect both conducting wires and grounding wires. Green wire connectors
are used only for grounding wires.
TIPS FOR WORKING WITH WIRE
WIRE GAUGE AMPACITY MAXIMUM WATTAGE
LOAD
14-gauge 15 amps 1,440 watts (120 volts)

3,840 watts (240 volts)
5,760 watts (240 volts)
Wire ampacity is a measurement of how much current a wire

can carry safely. Ampacity varies by the size of the wires.
When installing a new circuit, choose wire with an ampacity
rating matching the circuit size. For dedicated appliance
circuits, check the wattage rating of the appliance and make
sure it does not exceed the maximum wattage load of the
circuit. The ampacities in this table are for copper wires in
NM cable. The ampacity for the same wire in conduit is
usually more. The ampacity for aluminum wire is less.
How to Strip NM Sheathing & Insulation
Measure and mark the cable 8" to 10" from the end. Slide the cable ripper
onto the cable, and squeeze tool firmly to force the cutting point through the
plastic sheathing.
Grip the cable tightly with one hand, and pull the cable ripper toward the
end of the cable to cut open the plastic sheathing.
Peel back the plastic sheathing and the paper wrapping from the individual
wires.
Cut away the excess plastic sheathing and paper wrapping using the
cutting jaws of a combination tool.
Cut individual wires as needed using the cutting jaws of the combination
tool. Leave a minimum of 3" of wire running past the edge of the box.
Strip insulation for each wire using the stripper openings. Choose the
opening that matches the gauge of the wire, and take care not to nick or
scratch the ends of the wires.
How to Connect Wires to Screw Terminals
Strip about ¾" of insulation from each wire using a combination tool.
Choose the stripper opening that matches the gauge of the wire, and then
clamp the wire in the tool. Pull the wire firmly to remove plastic insulation.
Form a C-shaped loop in the end of each wire using a needlenose pliers or
the hole of the correct gauge in a pair of wire strippers. The wire should have
no scratches or nicks.
Hook each wire around the screw terminal so it forms a clockwise loop.
Tighten the screw firmly. Insulation should just touch head of screw. Never
place the ends of two wires under a single screw terminal. Instead use a
pigtail wire (see here).
CABLE STAPLES
Use plastic cable staples to fasten cables. Choose staples sized to

match the cables. Stack-It® staples (A) hold up to four 2-wire cables; ¾"
staples (B) for 12/2, 12/3, and all 10-gauge cables; ½" staples (C) for
14/2, 14/3, or 12/2 cables; coaxial staples (D) for anchoring television
and data cables; bell wire staples (E) for attaching telephone cables.
PUSH-IN CONNECTORS
Push-in connectors are a relatively new product for joining wires.

Instead of twisting the bare wire ends together, you strip off about ¾" of
insulation and insert each into a hole in the connector. The connectors
come with two to six holes sized for various gauge wires. These
connectors are perfect for inexperienced DIYers, because they do not
pull apart like a sloppy twisted connection can.
How to Join Wires with a Wire Connector
Ensure power is off and test for power. Grasp the wires to be joined in the
jaws of a pair of linesman’s pliers. The ends of the wires should be flush and
they should be parallel and touching. Rotate the pliers clockwise two or three
turns to twist the wire ends together.
Twist a wire connector over the ends of the wires. Make sure the
connector is the right size (see here). Hand-twist the connector as far onto
the wires as you can. There should be no bare wire exposed beneath the
collar of the connector.
OPTION: Reinforce the joint by wrapping it with electrician’s tape. By
code, you cannot bind the wire joint with tape only, but it can be used as
insurance. Few professional electricians use tape for purposes other than
tagging wires for identification.
OPTION: Strip ¾" of insulation off the ends of the wires to be joined,
and insert each wire into a push-in connector. Gently tug on each wire to
make sure it is secure.
How to Pigtail Wires
Cut a 6" length from a piece of insulated wire the same gauge and color as
the wires it will be joining. Strip ¾" of insulation from each end of the
insulated wire.
NOTE: Pigtailing is done mainly to avoid connecting multiple

wires to one terminal, which is a code violation.
Join one end of the pigtail to the wires that will share the connection using
a wire nut.
ALTERNATIVE: If you are pigtailing to a grounding screw or
grounding clip in a metal box, you may find it easier to attach one end of
the wire to the grounding screw before you attach the other end to the
other wires.
Connect the pigtail to the appropriate terminal on the receptacle or switch.
Fold the wires neatly and press the fitting into the box.
NM Cable
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Drill and bits NM cable

Tape measure Cable clamps
Cable ripper Cable staples
Combination tool Masking tape
Screwdrivers Electrical tape
Needlenose pliers Grounding pigtails
Hammer Wire connectors
Fish tape Eye and ear protection
N on metallic (NM) cable is used for most indoor

wiring projects except those requiring conduit and
those in damp areas such as against concrete or
masonry walls with dirt on the other side. Cut and
install the cable after all electrical boxes have been
mounted. Refer to your wiring plan to make sure each
length of cable is correct for the circuit size and
configuration.
Cable runs are difficult to measure exactly, so
leave plenty of extra cable when cutting each length.
Cable splices inside walls are not allowed by code.
When inserting cables into a circuit breaker panel,
make sure the power is shut off.
After all cables are installed and all the ground
wires spliced, call your electrical inspector to arrange
for the rough-in inspection. Do not install wallboard
or attach light fixtures and other devices until this
inspection is done. Check with your building
inspector before using NM cable. Some areas, such as
the Chicago area, do not allow NM cable.
Pulling cables through studs is easier if you drill smooth, straight holes at
the same height. Prevent kinks by straightening the cable before pulling it
through the studs. Use plastic grommets to protect cables on steel studs
(inset).
This framing member chart shows the maximum sizes for holes and
notches that can be cut into studs and joists when running cables. When
boring holes, there must be at least ⅝" of wood between the edge of a stud
and the hole and at least 2" between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists
can be notched only in the end third of the overall span; never in the middle
third of the joist. If 1¼" clearance cannot possibly be maintained, you may
be able to satisfy code by installing a metal nail plate over the point of
penetration in the stud or joist. Different rules apply to wood I-joists, metal-
plate-connected trusses, engineered beams, and beams assembled from
lumber. In general, you may not drill and notch trusses and assembled
beams. Manufacturers of I-joists and engineered beams have limits about the
size and location of holes.
FRAMING MAXIMUM HOLE MAXIMUM NOTCH
MEMBER SIZE SIZE
2 × 4 loadbearing 17/16" diameter ⅞" deep
stud
2 × 4 non- 2⅛" diameter 17/16" deep
loadbearing stud
2 × 6 loadbearing 23/16" diameter 1⅜" deep
stud
2 × 6 non- 35/16" diameter 23/16" deep
loadbearing stud
2 × 6 joists 113/16" diameter 15
" deep
/16
2 × 8 joists 2½ diameter 1¼" deep

2 × 10 joists 31/16" diameter 19/16" deep
2 × 12 joists 3¾" diameter 1⅞" deep
How to Install NM Cable
Drill ⅝" holes in framing members for the cable runs. This is done easily
with a right-angle drill, available at rental centers. The edge of the hole must
be set back at least 1¼" from the front face of the framing member, or the
cable must be protected with a metal plate (here).
Where cables will turn corners (step 6, here), drill intersecting holes in
adjoining faces of studs. Measure and cut all cables, allowing 2 ft. extra at
ends entering the breaker panel and 1 foot for ends entering the electrical
box.
Shut off power to the circuit breaker panel. Use a cable ripper to strip the
cable, leaving at least ¼" of sheathing to enter the circuit breaker panel. Clip
away the excess sheathing.
Open a knockout in the circuit breaker panel using a hammer and
screwdriver. Insert a cable clamp into the knockout, and secure it with a
locknut. Insert the cable through the clamp so that at least ¼" of sheathing
extends inside the circuit breaker panel. Tighten the mounting screws on the
clamp so the cable is gripped securely but not so tightly that the sheathing is
crushed.
Anchor the cable to the center of a framing member within 12" of the
circuit breaker panel using a cable staple. Stack-It® staples work well where
two or more cables must be anchored to the same side of a stud. Run the
cable to the first electrical box. Where the cable runs along the sides of
framing members, anchor it with cable staples no more than 4 ft. 6" apart.
At corners, form a slight L-shaped bend in the end of the cable and insert it
into one hole. Retrieve the cable through the other hole using needlenose
pliers (inset).
Staple the cable to a framing member within 8" from where the sheathing
ends in the box. Hold the cable taut against the front of the box, and mark a
point on the sheathing ¼" past the box edge. Remove sheathing from the
marked line to the end using a cable ripper, and clip away excess sheathing
with a combination tool. Insert the cable through the knockout in the box.
VARIATION: Different types of boxes have different clamping devices.
Make sure cable sheathing extends ¼" past the edge of the clamp to
ensure that the cable is secure and that the wire won’t be damaged by the
edges of the clamp. Clamp cable inside all boxes except single gang (2¼
× 4") boxes.
As each cable is installed in a box, clip back each wire so that at least 3" of
workable wire extends past the front edge of the box.
Strip ¾" of insulation from each circuit wire in the box using a
combination tool. Take care not to nick the copper.
Continue the circuit by running cable between each pair of electrical boxes,
leaving an extra 1 ft. of cable at each end.
At metal boxes and recessed fixtures, open knockouts, and attach cables
with cable clamps. From inside the fixture, strip away all but ¼" of
sheathing. Clip back wires so there is 8" of workable length, and then strip
¾" of insulation from each wire.
For a surface-mounted fixture such as a baseboard heater or fluorescent
light fixture, staple the cable to a stud near the fixture location, leaving
plenty of excess cable. Mark the floor so the cable will be easy to find after
the walls are finished.
At each recessed fixture and metal electrical box, connect one end of a
grounding pigtail to the box using a grounding clip attached to the frame
(shown above) or a green grounding screw. A grounding pigtail is not
needed for plastic boxes.
At each electrical box and recessed fixture, join grounding wires together
with a wire connector. If the box has internal clamps, tighten the clamps over
the cables.
Label the cables entering each box to indicate their destinations. In boxes
with complex wiring configurations, also tag the individual wires to make
final hookups easier. After all cables are installed, your rough-in work is
ready to be reviewed by the electrical inspector.
How to Run NM Cable Inside a Finished Wall
From the unfinished space below the finished wall, look for a reference
point, such as a soil stack, plumbing pipes, or electrical cables, that indicates
the location of the wall above. Choose a location for the new cable that does
not interfere with existing utilities. Drill a 1" hole up into the stud cavity.
From the unfinished space above the finished wall, find the top of the stud
cavity by measuring from the same fixed reference point used in step 1. Drill
a 1" hole down through the top plate and into the stud cavity using a drill bit
extender.
Extend a fish tape down through the top plate, twisting the tape until it
reaches the bottom of the stud cavity. From the unfinished space below the
wall, use a piece of stiff wire with a hook on one end to retrieve the fish tape
through the drilled hole in the bottom plate.
Trim back 2" of sheathing from the end of the NM cable, and then insert
the wires through the loop at the tip of the fish tape.
Bend the wires against the cable, and then use electrical tape to bind them
tightly. Apply cable-pulling lubricant to the taped end of the fish tape.
From above the finished wall, pull steadily on the fish tape to draw the
cable up through the stud cavity. This job will be easier if you have a helper
feed the cable from below as you pull.
Tips for Running Cable Inside Finished Walls
If there is no access space above and below a wall, cut openings in the
finished walls to run a cable. This often occurs in two-story homes when a
cable is extended from an upstairs wall to a downstairs wall. Cut small
openings in the wall near the top and bottom plates, then drill an angled 1"
hole through each plate. Extend a fish tape into the joist cavity between the
walls and use it to pull the cable from one wall to the next. If the walls line
up one over the other (left), you can retrieve the fish tape using a piece of
stiff wire. If walls do not line up (right), use a second fish tape. After
running the cable, repair the holes in the walls with patching plaster or
drywall scraps and taping compound.
If you don’t have a fish tape, use a length of sturdy string and a lead weight
or heavy washer. Drop the line into the stud cavity from above, and then use
a piece of stiff wire to hook the line from below.
Use a flexible drill bit, also called a bell-hanger’s bit, to bore holes through
framing in finished walls.
How to Install NM Cable in Finished Ceilings
If you don’t have access to a ceiling from above,

you can run cable for a new ceiling fixture from an
existing receptacle in the room up the wall and into
the ceiling without disturbing much of the ceiling.
Be sure not to tap into a restricted circuit such as
the kitchen countertop and bathroom receptacles.
To begin, run cable from the receptacle to the stud
cavity that aligns with the ceiling joists on which
you want to install a fixture. Be sure to plan a
location for the new switch. Remove short strips of
drywall from the wall and ceiling. Make a notch in
the top plates. Use a fish tape to pull the new cable
up through the wall cavity and the notch in top
plates. Next use the fish tape to pull the cable
through the ceiling to the fixture hole. When you
are finished pulling the cable, protect the notch
with metal nail guards. After having your work
inspected, replace the drywall and install the fixture
and switch.
Plan a route for running cable between electrical boxes (see illustration
above). Remove drywall on the wall and ceiling surface. Where cable must
cross framing members, cut a small access opening in the wall and ceiling
surface; then cut a notch into the framing with a wood chisel.
Fish a cable from the existing receptacle location up to the notch at the top
of the wall. Protect the notch with a metal nail stop.
Fish the cable through the ceiling to the location of the new ceiling fixture.
Install nail guards over the notches.
Conduit
A ll individual wires (such as THHN/THWN)
must be installed in conduit or in thinner material
called tubing. Cables and wires that are subject to
physical damage must be installed in conduit or some
types of tubing to protect them. Whether a location is
subject to physical damage depends on the judgment
of the electrical inspector. Cables that are exposed and
are within the reach of an adult and most cables
installed outside are often considered subject to
physical damage. Other exposed locations may also
qualify.
The interior of conduit and tubing installed outside
is considered a wet area. Don’t install NM cable
inside conduit installed outdoors. Use UF cable
instead or pull individual wires rated for wet area use.
Conduit and tubing installed outdoors must be rated
for exterior use.
Electrical Bonding of Metal Conduit
Install a green insulated grounding wire for any circuit that runs through
metal conduit. Although code allows the metal conduit to serve as the
grounding conductor, most electricians install a green insulated wire as a
more dependable means of grounding the system. The grounding wires must
be connected to metal boxes with a pigtail and grounding screw (left) or
grounding clip (right).
Metal Conduit
EMT (electrical metallic conduit) is lightweight and easy to install. IMC

(intermediate metallic conduit) has thicker galvanized walls and is a good
choice for exposed outdoor use. Rigid metal conduit provides the greatest
protection for wires, but it is more expensive and requires threaded fittings.
EMT is the preferred metal material for home use.
Fill Capacity
EMT ½" in diameter can hold up to twelve 14-gauge or nine 12-gauge

THHN/THWN wires (A), five 10-gauge wires (B), or three 8-gauge wires
(C). Use ¾" conduit for greater fill capacity.
Plastic Conduit
Plastic PVC conduit and tubing are allowed by many local codes. It is
assembled with solvent glue and PVC fittings that resemble those for metal
conduit. When wiring with PVC conduit and tubing, always run a green
grounding wire. Use material approved for use in electrical applications. Do
not use PVC plumbing pipes.
Working with Conduit
Conduit types used most in homes are EMT (electrical metallic tubing),
IMC (intermediate metallic conduit), PVC (rigid nonmetallic conduit), and
flexible metal conduit. The most common diameters are ½" and ¾", but
larger sizes are stocked at most building centers.
Nonmetallic conduit fittings typically are solvent welded to nonmetallic
conduit, as opposed to metal conduit, which can be threaded and screwed
into threaded fittings or attached with setscrews or compression fittings.
Liquid-tight flexible conduit (LFC) is used in outdoor applications,
especially around pools and water features, at irrigation controllers, and in
air-conditioning condensers.
How to Make Nonmetallic Conduit Connections
Cut the rigid nonmetallic conduit (PVC) to length with a fine-tooth saw,
such as a hacksaw. For larger diameter (1½" and above), use a power miter
saw with a fine-tooth or plastic cutting blade.
Deburr the cut edges with a utility knife or fine sandpaper such as emery
paper. Wipe the cut ends with a dry rag. Also wipe the coupling or fitting to
clean it.
Apply a coat of PVC cement to the end of the conduit and to the inside
walls of the coupling (inset). Wear latex gloves to protect your hands. The
cement should be applied past the point on the conduit where it enters the
fitting or coupling.
Insert the conduit into the fitting or coupling and twist it a quarter turn to
help spread the cement. Allow the joint to set undisturbed for 10 minutes.
How to Install Conduit & Wires on a Concrete
Wall
Measure from the floor to position electrical boxes on the wall, and mark
location for mounting screws. Boxes for receptacles in an unfinished
basement or other damp areas are mounted at least 2 ft. from the floor.
Laundry receptacles usually are mounted at 48".
Drill pilot holes with a masonry bit, then mount the box against the wall
with masonry anchors, or use masonry anchors and panhead screws.
Open one knockout for each length of conduit that will be attached to the
box. Attach an offset fitting to each knockout using a locknut.
Measure the first length of conduit and cut it with a hacksaw. Remove any
rough inside edges with a pipe reamer or a round file. Attach the conduit to
the offset fitting on the box, and tighten the setscrew.
Anchor the conduit against the wall with pipe straps and masonry anchors.
Conduit should be anchored within 3 ft. of each box and fitting and every 10
ft. thereafter.
Make conduit bends by attaching a sweep fitting using a setscrew fitting or
compression fitting. Continue attaching additional lengths. You can also use
a conduit bender (inset) to make your own sweeps and bends.
Use an elbow fitting in conduit runs that have many bends or in runs that
require very long wires. The cover on the elbow fitting can be removed to
make it easier to extend a fish tape and pull wires.
At the panel, turn the power off and then remove the cover and test for
power. Open a knockout in the panel, attach a setscrew fitting, and install the
last length of conduit.
Unwind the fish tape and extend it through the conduit from the circuit
breaker panel outward. Remove the cover on an elbow fitting when
extending the fish tape around tight corners.
Trim back 2" of outer insulation from the end of the wires, and then insert
the wires through the loop at the tip of the fish tape.
Retrieve the wires through the conduit by pulling on the fish tape with
steady pressure.
NOTE: Use extreme care when using a metal fish tape inside a
circuit breaker panel, even when the power is turned off.
Clip off the taped ends of the wires. Leave at least 2 ft. of wire at the
service panel and 3" extending beyond the front edges at each electrical box.
Boxes & Panels
A ll wiring
connections must be
housed within a box that
is accessible. The box
may be as simple as a
small handy box for
making a splice or as
complex as a 200-amp
main service panel. It is
typically rectangular,
square, round, or octagonal, but be aware that the
boxes are shaped as they are for specific reasons, so
make sure you are using the right one for the job.
Installing a box that is too small is an extremely
common wiring mistake that is easy to understand:
small boxes cost less. But they are not one-size fits
all. The smallest common boxes, called handy boxes,
may be used only for a single device (such as a
switch or receptacle) with no more than three
conductors. Be sure to refer to a box fill chart (see
here) to learn which size and shape box is required
for your job.
Electrical panels function like other electrical
boxes insofar as they house connections, but they
also house breakers or fuses and other parts that
transmit power from the service entry to the
individual circuits. Subpanels are smaller electrical
panels that perform the same function but are
supplied by the main service panel so they can
distribute power into multiple circuits in a remote
location.
In this chapter:
• Electrical Boxes
• Installing Boxes
• Electrical Panels
Electrical Boxes
T he National Electrical Code requires that wire
connections and cable splices be contained inside an
approved metal or plastic box. The box shields
framing members and other flammable materials
from electrical sparks and protects people from being
shocked.
Electrical boxes come in several shapes.
Rectangular and square boxes are used for switches
and receptacles. Rectangular (2 × 3") boxes are used
for single switches or duplex receptacles. Square (4 ×
4") boxes are used any time it is convenient for two
switches or receptacles to be wired, or “ganged,” in
one box. Octagonal electrical boxes contain wire
connections for ceiling fixtures.
Electrical boxes are available in different depths.
A box must be deep enough so a switch or receptacle
can be removed or installed easily without crimping
and damaging the circuit wires. The box must also be
large enough to safely dissipate the heat from wires,
switches, and receptacles. This is an important fire
safety rule.
Octagonal boxes usually contain wire connections for ceiling fixtures.
Because the ceiling fixture attaches directly to the box, the box should be
anchored firmly to a framing member. A properly installed octagonal box
should support a ceiling fixture weighing up to 50 pounds. Any box must be
covered with a tightly fitting cover plate, and the box must not have open
knockouts. Do not overfill the box (inset).
ELECTRICAL BOX FILL CHART
JUNCTION BOXES
BOX SIZE 4 × 11/4" R or O
AND SHAPE
WIRE SIZE MAXIMUM NUMBER OF CONDUCTORS

PERMITTED (SEE NOTES BELOW)
8 AWG 5
10 AWG 5
12 AWG 5
14 AWG 6

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 5
10 AWG 6
12 AWG 6
14 AWG 7

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 7
10 AWG 8
12 AWG 9
14 AWG 10
BOX SIZE 4 × 11/4" S

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 6
10 AWG 7
12 AWG 8
14 AWG 9

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 7
10 AWG 8
12 AWG 9
14 AWG 10

AND SHAPE
8 AWG 10
10 AWG 12
12 AWG 13
14 AWG 15
BOX SIZE 411/16 × 11/4" S

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 8
10 AWG 10
12 AWG 11
14 AWG 12
BOX SIZE 411/16 × 11/2" S

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 9
10 AWG 11
12 AWG 13
14 AWG 14
BOX SIZE 411/16 × 21/8" S
AND SHAPE

8 AWG 14
10 AWG 16
12 AWG 18
14 AWG 21
DEVICE BOXES
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 1/2

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 2
10 AWG 3
12 AWG 3
14 AWG 3
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 2"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 3
10 AWG 4
12 AWG 4
14 AWG 5
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 21/4"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 3
10 AWG 4
12 AWG 4
14 AWG 5
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 21/2"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 4
10 AWG 5
12 AWG 5
14 AWG 6
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 23/4"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 4
10 AWG 5
12 AWG 6
14 AWG 7
BOX SIZE 3 × 2 × 31/2"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 6
10 AWG 7
12 AWG 8
14 AWG 9
BOX SIZE 4 × 21/8 × 11/2"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 3
10 AWG 4
12 AWG 4
14 AWG 5
BOX SIZE 4 × 21/8 × 17/8"

AND SHAPE
8 AWG 4
10 AWG 5
12 AWG 5
14 AWG 6
BOX SIZE 4 × 21/8 × 21/8"

AND SHAPE

8 AWG 4
10 AWG 5
12 AWG 6
14 AWG 7
NOTES:
• R = Round; O = Octagonal; S = Square or rectangular
• Each hot or neutral wire entering the box is counted as one
conductor.
• Grounding wires are counted as one conductor in total—do not
count each one individually.
• Raceway fittings and external cable clamps do not count. Internal
cable connectors and straps count as either half or one conductor,
depending on type.
• Devices (switches and receptacles mainly) each count as two
conductors.
• When calculating total conductors, any nonwire components should
be assigned the gauge of the largest wire in the box.
• For wire gauges not shown here, contact your local electrical
inspections office.
Replace an undersized box with a larger box using

the Electrical Box Fill Chart (above) as a guide. In
addition to the maximum box fill allowed by the
chart, the area of all wires, taps, and splices should
not exceed 75 percent of the box area. The NEC also
says that all electrical boxes must remain accessible.
Never cover an electrical box with drywall, paneling,
or wallcoverings.
Common Electrical Boxes
Rectangular boxes are used with wall switches and duplex receptacles.
Single-size rectangular boxes (shown above) may have detachable sides
that allow them to be ganged together to form double-size boxes.
Square 4" × 4" boxes are large enough for most wiring applications. They
are used for cable splices and ganged receptacles or switches. To install one
switch or receptacle in a square box, use an adapter cover.
Braced octagonal boxes fit between ceiling joists. The metal braces extend
to fit any joist spacing and are nailed or screwed to framing members.
Outdoor boxes have sealed seams and foam gaskets to guard a switch or
receptacle against moisture. Corrosion-resistant coatings protect all metal
parts. Code-compliant models include a watertight hood that protects even
when the outlet is in use.
Old work boxes can be installed to replace older boxes or to allow you to
add new additional receptacles and switches. One type (above) has built-in
clamps that tighten against the backside of the drywall and hold the box in
place.
Plastic boxes are common in new construction. The box may include
preattached nails for anchoring it to framing members. Wall switches must
have grounding screws if installed in plastic boxes.
3½"-deep plastic boxes with preattached mounting nails are used for any
wiring project protected by finished walls. Common styles include single-
gang (A), double-gang (B), and triple-gang (C). Double-gang and triple-
gang boxes require internal cable clamps. Metal boxes (D) should be used
for exposed indoor wiring, such as conduit installations in an unfinished
basement. Metal boxes also can be used for wiring that will be covered by
finished walls. Plastic retrofit boxes (E) are used when a new switch or
receptacle must fit inside a finished wall. Use internal cable clamps.
Additional electrical boxes include cast aluminum box (A) for use with
outdoor fixtures, including receptacles that are wired through metal conduit
(these must have in-use covers if they house receptacles); old work ceiling
box (B) used for light fixtures; light-duty ceiling fan box (C) with brace that
spans ceiling joists; heavy-duty retrofit ceiling fan box (D) designed for
retrofit; PVC box (E) for use with PVC conduit in indoor or outdoor setting;
vapor-proof ceiling box with foam gasket (F).
BOX SPECIFICATIONS
High-quality nonmetallic boxes are rigid and don’t contort easily. A

variety of adapter plates are available, including junction box cover
plate (A), single-gang (B), double-gang (C), and light fixture (D).
Adapter plates come in several thicknesses to match different wall
constructions.
Boxes larger than 2 × 4" and all retrofit boxes must have internal
cable clamps. After installing cables in the box, tighten the cable
clamps over the cables so they are gripped firmly, but not so tightly that
the cable sheathing is crushed.
Metal boxes must be bonded to the circuit grounding system. Connect
the circuit grounding wires to the box with a green insulated pigtail
wire and wire connector (as shown) or with a grounding clip (here).
Cables entering a metal box must be clamped. A variety of clamps
are available, including plastic clamps (A, C) and threaded metal
clamps (B).
Nonmetallic Boxes
Nonmetallic electrical boxes have taken over much
of the do-it-yourself market. Most are sold prefitted
with installation hardware—from metal wings to 10d
common nails attached at the perfect angle for a nail-
in box. The bulk of the nonmetallic boxes sold today
are inexpensive blue PVC. You can also purchase
heavier-duty fiberglass or thermoset plastic models
that provide a nonmetallic option for installing
heavier fixtures such as ceiling fans and chandeliers.
In addition to cost and availability, nonmetallic
boxes hold a big advantage over metal boxes in that
their resistance to conducting electricity will prevent
a sparking short circuit if a hot wire contacts the box.
Nonmetallic boxes generally are not approved for
exposed areas, where they may be susceptible to
damage. Their lack of rigidity also allows them to
compress or distort, which can reduce the interior
capacity beyond code minimums or make outlets
difficult to attach.
Low cost is the primary reason that plastic PVC nail-in boxes are so
popular. Not only are they inexpensive, but they also feature built-in cable
clamps. The standard plastic nail-in box is prefitted with a pair of 10d
common nails for attaching to exposed wall studs.
Nonmetallic boxes for home use include a single-gang, double-gang,
triple gang, and quad boxes (A); thermoset and fiberglass boxes for heavier
duty (B); and round fixture boxes (C) for ceiling installation (nail-in and
with integral metal bracket).
Working with Nonmetallic Boxes
Do not break off the tabs that cover cable entry holes in plastic boxes.
These are not knockouts as you would find in metal boxes. In single-gang
boxes (right), the pressure from the tab is sufficient to secure the cable as
long as it enters with sheathing intact and is stapled to the framing no more
than 8" from the box. On larger boxes (left), you will find traditional
knockouts intended to be used with plastic cable clamps that resemble metal
cable clamps. Use these for heavier-gauge cable and cable with more than
three wires.
Nail-in boxes (A) are prefitted with 10d nails that are attached
perpendicular to the face of single-gang boxes and at an inward angle for
better gripping power on larger boxes. Side-mount boxes (B) feature a
nailing plate that is attached to the front of the stud to automatically create
the correct setback; adjustable side-mount boxes (C) are installed the same
way but can be moved on the bracket.
Distortion can occur in nonmetallic boxes when nails or other fasteners
are overdriven or installed at improper angles, or when the semiflexible
boxes are compressed into improperly sized or shaped openings. This can
reduce the box capacity and prevent devices and faceplates from fitting.
Integral ribs cast into many nonmetallic boxes are used to register the
box against the wall studs so the front edges of the box will be flush with
the wall surface after drywall is installed. Most are set for ½" drywall, but if
your wall material will be a different thickness, or if you are going to install
something like a mirror on the wall, you may be able to find a box with
corresponding ribs. Otherwise, use a piece of the wallcovering material as a
reference.
Installing Boxes
I nstall electrical boxes for receptacles, switches,
and fixtures only after your wiring project plan has
been approved by your inspector. Use your wiring
plan as a guide, and follow all applicable height and
spacing guidelines when laying out box positions.
Always use the deepest electrical boxes that are
practical for your installation. Using deep boxes
ensures that you will meet code regulations regarding
box volume and makes it easier to make the wire
connections.
Some electrical fixtures, such as recessed light
fixtures, electric heaters, and exhaust fans, have built-
in wire connection boxes. Install the frames for these
fixtures at the same time you are installing the other
electrical boxes. The box heights recommended on
the following pages are for most situations. Box
heights for Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA)
compliance are different.
Electrical boxes in adjacent rooms should be positioned close together
when they share a common wall and are controlled by the same circuit. This
simplifies the cable installations and also reduces the amount of cable
needed.
Fixtures That Do Not Need Electrical Boxes
Recessed fixtures that fit inside wall cavities have built-in wire
connection boxes and require no additional electrical boxes. Common
recessed fixtures include electric blower-heaters (left), bathroom exhaust
fans (right), and recessed light fixtures. Install the frames for these fixtures
at the same time you are installing the other electrical boxes along the
circuit. Surface-mounted fixtures such as electric baseboard heaters (here–
here) and undercabinet fluorescent lights (here–here) also have built-in wire
connection boxes. These fixtures are not installed until it is time to make the
final hookups.
How to Install Electrical Boxes for
Receptacles
Mark the location of each box on studs. Standard receptacle boxes

should be centered 12" above floor level. GFCI receptacle boxes in a
bathroom should be mounted so they will be about 10" above the
finished countertop.
Position each box against a stud so the front face will be flush with the
finished wall. For example, if you will be installing ½" drywall, position
the box so it extends ½" past the face of the stud, plus the thickness of
any additional material, such as tile or a mirror. Anchor the box by
driving the mounting nails into the stud.
If installing square boxes, attach the adapter plates before positioning
the boxes. Use adapter plates that match the thickness of the finished
wall. Anchor the box by driving the mounting nails into the stud.
Open one knockout for each cable that will enter the box using a
hammer and screwdriver. Always introduce the new cable through the
knockout that is farthest way from the wall stud.
Break off any sharp edges that might damage vinyl cable sheathing by
rotating a screwdriver in the knockout.
How to Install Boxes for Light Fixtures
Position the light fixture box for a vanity light above the frame
opening for a mirror or medicine cabinet. Place the box for a ceiling
light fixture in the center of the room or as desired. Position each box
against a framing member so the front face will be flush with the
finished wall or ceiling, and then anchor the box by driving the
mounting nails into the framing.
To position a light fixture between joists, attach an electrical box to an
adjustable brace bar. Nail the ends of the brace bar to joists so the face
of the box will be flush with the finished ceiling surface. Slide the box
along the brace bar to the desired position, and then tighten the
mounting screws. Use internal cable clamps when using a box with a
brace bar.
NOTE: For ceiling fans and heavy fixtures, use a metal box
and a heavy-duty brace bar rated for heavy loads (inset
photo).
How to Install Boxes for Switches
Install switch boxes at accessible locations, usually on the latch side of

a door, with the center of the box 48" from the floor. The box for a
thermostat is mounted at 48" to 60". Position each box against the side
of a stud so the front face will be flush with the finished wall, and drive
the mounting nails into the stud.
To install a switch box between studs, first install a cross block
between studs, with the top edge 46" above the floor. Position the box
on the cross block so the front face will be flush with the finished wall,
and drive the mounting nails into the cross block.
How to Locate Electrical Boxes
Heights of electrical boxes vary depending on use. In the kitchen

shown here, boxes above the countertop are 45" above the floor, in the
center of 18" backsplashes that extend from the countertop to the
cabinets. All boxes for wall switches also are installed at this height.
The center of the box for the microwave receptacle is 72" off the floor.
The centers of the boxes for the range and food disposer receptacles are
12" off the floor, but the center of the box for the dishwasher receptacle
is 6" off the floor.
Typical Wallcovering Thickness
Consider the thickness of finished walls when mounting electrical

boxes against framing members. Code requires that the front face of
boxes be flush with the finished wall surface, so how you install boxes
will vary depending on the type of wall finish that will be used. For
example, if the walls will be finished with ½" drywall (A), attach the
boxes so the front faces extend ½" past the front of the framing
members. With ceramic tile and drywall or cementboard (B), extend the
boxes ⅞" past the framing members. With ¼" Corian® over drywall (C),
boxes should extend ¾"; and with drywall and laminate (D), boxes
should extend ⅝".
Ceiling Boxes
Ceiling boxes for lights are generally round or octagonal in shape to fit
typical lamp mounting plates. The easiest way to install one is by nailing
the brace to open ceiling joists from above. If the ceiling is insulated, pull
the insulation away from the box if the fixture you’re installing is not rated
IC for insulation contact.
A heavy-duty brace is required for anchoring boxes that will support
heavy chandeliers and ceiling fans. A remodeling brace such as the one
seen here is designed to install through a small cutout in the ceiling (inset
photo).
How to Install a Junction Box
Turn off power to circuit wires at the main service panel. Test for
power. Carefully remove any tape or wire connectors from the exposed
splice. Disconnect the wires.
Open one knockout for each cable that will enter the box using a
hammer and screwdriver. Any unopened knockouts should remain
sealed.
Anchor the electrical box to a wooden framing member using screws
or nails.
Thread each cable end through a cable clamp. Tighten the clamp with
a screwdriver. See if there is any slack in the cables so you can gain a
little extra cable to work with.
Insert the cables into the electrical box, and screw a locknut onto each
cable clamp.
Tighten the locknuts by pushing against the lugs with the blade of a
screwdriver.
Use wire connectors to reconnect the wires. Pigtail the copper
grounding wires to the green grounding screw in the back of the box
(required only for metal boxes).
Carefully tuck the wires into the box, and attach the cover plate. Turn
on the power to the circuit at the main service panel. Make sure the box
remains accessible and is not concealed by wall or ceiling finishes.
Installing Pop-In (Old Work) Retrofit Boxes
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdriver
Pencil
String
Electrical tape
Wallboard saw
Template (if provided)
Plastic or metal pop-in box
Eye protection
Attaching an electrical box to a wall stud during new

construction is relatively easy (here to here). The task
becomes complicated, however, when you’re
working in finished walls during remodeling or
repair. In most cases, it’s best to use an electronic
stud finder, make a large cutout in the wall, and
attach a new box directly to a framing member or
bracing (and then replace and refinish the wall
materials). But there are occasions when this isn’t
possible or practical and you just need to retrofit an
electrical box without making a large hole in the
wall. You also may find that an older switch or
receptacle box is too shallow to accommodate a new
dimmer or GFCI safely. These situations call for a
pop-in retrofit box (sometimes called an “old work”
box).
A pop-in box typically has wings, tabs, or

brackets that are drawn tight against the wall surface
on the wall cavity side, holding the box in place. It
can be made either of metal or plastic.
Pop-in boxes for remodeling come in a variety of styles. For walls, they
include plastic retrofit boxes with flip-out wings (A), metal or plastic boxes
with compression tabs or brackets (B), metal retrofit boxes with folding
wings (C), and metal boxes with bendable brackets, also known as F-straps
or Madison clips, (D). For ceilings, plastic fixture boxes with flip-out wings
(E) are available.
How to Replace an Electrical Box
To install a dimmer switch or GFCI receptacle, you may have to

replace an old, overcrowded box. Shut off power and remove the old
switch or receptacle. Identify the location of nails holding the box to the
framing member and cut the nails with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw
with a metal blade inserted between the box and the stud.
Bind the cable ends together and attach string in case they fall into the
wall cavity when the old box is removed. Disconnect the cable clamps
and slide the old box out. Install a new pop-in box (see opposite).
How to Install a Pop-In Box
Use a template to trace a cutout for the box at the intended location. If
no template is provided, press the pop-in box against the wall surface
and trace its front edges (but not the tabs on the top and bottom).
Puncture the drywall with the tip of a drywall saw or by drilling a
small hole inside the lines, and make the cutout for the box.
Pull NM cable through a knockout in the box (no cable clamp is
required with a plastic box; just be sure not to break the pressure tab that
holds the cable in place).
Insert the box into the cutout so the front flanges are flush against the
wall surface. Tighten the screws that cause the flip-out wings to pivot
(right) until the box is held firmly in place. Connect the switch or
receptacle that the box will house.
VARIATION: Feed cable into the new box and secure it in the
opening after clamping the cables. With this pop-in box, bracket
arms are inserted at the sides of the box (top) and then bent around
the front edges to secure the box in the opening (bottom).
Electrical Panels
E very home has a main panel that distributes
electrical current to the individual circuits. The main
panel may be found in the basement, garage, utility
area, or on an exterior wall and can be identified by
its metal cabinet. Before making any repair to your
electrical system, you must shut off power to the
correct circuit at the main panel or at the subpanel
where the circuit begins. Every circuit in every panel
should be labeled (see here) so circuits can be
identified easily.
Panels vary in appearance, depending on the age
of the system. Very old wiring may operate on 30-
amp service that has only two circuits. New homes
can have up to 400-amp service with 30 or more
circuits. You can usually find the size of the service
by reading the amperage rating printed on the main
fuse block or main circuit breakers.
Regardless of age, all panels have circuit breakers
or fuses (see here–here) that protect each circuit from
overloads. In general, older service panels use fuses,
while newer panels use circuit breakers.
In addition to the main panel, your electrical
system may have one or more subpanels that protect
some of the circuits in the home. A subpanel has its
own circuit breakers or fuses.
The subpanel resembles the main service panel
but is usually smaller. It may be located near the
main panel, or it may be found near the areas served
by the new circuits. Garages and basements that have
been updated often have their own subpanels. If your
home has subpanels, make sure that their circuits are
indexed correctly.
When handling fuses or circuit breakers, make
sure the area around the panel is dry. Never remove
the protective cover on the panel. After turning off a
circuit to make electrical repairs, remember to always
test the circuit for power before touching any wires.
The main panel is the heart of your wiring system. As our demand for
household energy has increased, the panels have also grown in capacity.
Today, a 200-amp panel is often installed in new construction. Many
homebuilders are installing dual 200-amp panels in larger houses.
A circuit breaker panel providing 100 amps or more of current is common
in wiring systems installed during the 1960s and later. A circuit breaker
panel is housed in a gray metal cabinet that contains two rows of individual
circuit breakers. You can often determine service size by reading the
amperage rating of the main circuit breakers. In systems rated 200 amps and
below, the main breaker is often located in the main panel, but it may be in
a separate cabinet located elsewhere.
Larger new homes may have 300- or 400-amp service. These systems may
have a single 300- or 400-amp panel or two 150- or 200-amp panels.
100-amp service is now the minimum standard for all new housing. It is
adequate for a medium-sized house with no more than three major electric
appliances. However, larger houses with more electrical appliances require
a service panel that provides 150 amps or more.
To shut off power to individual circuits in a circuit breaker panel, flip the
lever on the appropriate circuit breaker to the OFF position. To shut off the
power to the entire house, turn the main circuit breaker(s) to the OFF
position.
Some older homes may still have a 60-amp fuse panel. It usually is housed
in a gray metal cabinet that contains four individual plug fuses, plus one or
two pull-out fuse blocks that hold cartridge fuses. A 60-amp panel is
considered undersized by current standards. This type of system should be
upgraded for both convenience and safety. Insurance companies and
mortgage lenders may require a complete electrical system upgrade before
issuing a homeowner insurance policy or approving mortgage financing.
To shut off power to a circuit, carefully unscrew the plug fuse, touching
only its insulated rim. To shut off power to the entire house, hold the handle
of the main fuse block and pull sharply to remove it. Major appliance
circuits are controlled with separate cartridge fuse blocks. Shut off an
appliance circuit by pulling out its fuse block.
Circuit Breaker Panels
The circuit breaker panel is the electrical distribution
center for your home. It divides the current into
branch circuits that are carried throughout the house.
Each branch circuit is protected by a circuit breaker
that protects the wires from dangerous current
overloads. When installing new circuits, the last step
is to connect the wires to new circuit breakers at the
panel. Follow basic safety procedures and always
shut off the main circuit breaker and test for power
before touching any parts inside the panel. Never
touch the service wire lugs. If unsure of your own
skills, hire an electrician to make the final circuit
connections. (If you have an older electrical service
with fuses instead of circuit breakers, always have an
electrician make these final hookups.)
If a circuit breaker panel does not have enough
open slots for new full-size circuit breakers, you may
be able to install ½-height (slimline) circuit breakers.
Otherwise, you will need to install a subpanel.
Before installing any new wiring, evaluate your
electrical service to make sure it provides enough
current to support both the existing wiring and any
new circuits. If your service does not provide enough
current, you will need to upgrade to a panel with a
higher amp rating and enough extra breaker slots for
the new circuits you want to install.
SAFETY WARNING
Never touch any parts inside a circuit breaker panel until you
have checked for power (see here). Circuit breaker panels
differ in appearance, depending on the manufacturer. Never
begin work in a circuit breaker panel until you understand its
layout and can identify the parts.
EXERCISE YOUR BREAKERS

Your breakers (including the main) should be “exercised”
once a year to ensure proper mechanical function. Simply
turn them off and then back on. A convenient time to
perform the exercise is at daylight saving time, when you’ll
need to reset all of your clocks anyway.
Circuit Breakers & Fuses
Circuit breakers and fuses are safety devices
designed to protect the electrical system from short
circuits and overloads. Circuit breakers and fuses are
located in the main service panel and in subpanels.
Most panels installed before about 1965 rely on
fuses to protect individual circuits. Screw-in plug
fuses protect 120-volt circuits that power lights and
receptacles. Cartridge fuses protect 240-volt
appliance circuits and the main shutoff of the service
panel.
Inside each fuse is a current-carrying metal alloy
ribbon. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal ribbon
melts and stops the current flow. A fuse must match
the amperage rating of the circuit. Never replace a
fuse with one that has a larger amperage rating.
In most panels installed after about 1965, circuit
breakers protect individual circuits. Single-pole
circuit breakers protect 120-volt circuits, and double-
pole circuit breakers protect 240-volt circuits.
Amperage ratings for circuit breakers range from 15
to over 200 amps.
Each circuit breaker has a permanent metal strip
that heats up and bends when current passes through
it. If a circuit is overloaded, the metal strip inside the
breaker bends enough to “trip” the switch and stop
the flow of power. Many circuit breakers are
designed to trip only two times. After the second trip,
a circuit breaker may not trip when it is supposed to.
Consider replacing a circuit breaker that has tripped
twice.
When a fuse blows or a circuit breaker trips, it
may be because there are too many light fixtures and
plug-in appliances drawing power through the circuit.
Move some of the plug-in appliances to another
circuit, and then replace the fuse or reset the breaker.
If the fuse blows or the breaker trips again
immediately, there may be a short circuit in the
system. Call a licensed electrician if you suspect a
short circuit.
Old-style fuse boxes can accept modern “S” type fuses if you use an
Edison adapter. Be sure to screw the fuse into the adapter first, and then
screw the assembly into the socket.
Circuit breakers are found in the majority of panels installed since the
1960s. Single-pole breakers control 120-volt circuits. Double-pole breakers
rated for 20 to 60 amps control 240-volt circuits. Ground-fault circuit
interrupter (GFCI) provides protection from shocks. Arc-fault circuit
interrupter (AFCI) breakers provide protection from fire-causing arcs for
the entire circuit.
Fuses are used in older panels. Plug fuses usually control 120-volt circuits
rated for 15, 20, or 30 amps. Tamperproof plug fuses have threads that fit
only matching sockets, making it impossible to install a wrong-sized fuse.
Time-delay fuses absorb temporary heavy power loads without blowing.
Cartridge fuses control 240-volt circuits and range from 30 to 100 amps.
How to Identify & Replace a Blown Plug Fuse
Locate the blown fuse at the panel. If the metal ribbon inside is
cleanly melted (left), the circuit was overloaded. If window is discolored
(right), there was a short circuit.
Unscrew the fuse, being careful to touch only the insulated rim of the
fuse. Replace it with a fuse that has the same amperage rating.
How to Remove, Test & Replace a Cartridge
Fuse
Remove cartridge fuses by gripping the handle of the fuse block and
pulling out sharply.
Remove the individual cartridge fuses from the block using a fuse
puller.
Test each fuse using a continuity tester. If the tester glows, the fuse is
good. If not, install a new fuse with the same amperage rating.
How to Reset and Test a Circuit Breaker
Open the service panel and locate the tripped breaker. The lever on the
tripped breaker will be either in the OFF position or in a position
between ON and OFF.
Reset the tripped circuit breaker by pressing the circuit breaker lever
all the way to the OFF position and then pressing it to the ON position.
Test AFCI and GFCI circuit breakers by pushing the TEST button.
The breaker should trip to the OFF position. If not, the breaker is faulty
and must be replaced.
Connecting Circuit Breakers
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdriver
Hammer
Pencil
Combination tool
Cable ripper
Circuit tester
Pliers
Cable clamps
Single- and double-pole AFCI circuit breakers
The last step in a wiring project is connecting circuits

at the breaker panel. After this is done, the work is
ready for the final inspection.
Circuits are connected at the main panel, if it has
enough open slots, or at a circuit breaker subpanel
(see here–here). When working at a subpanel, make
sure the feeder breaker at the main panel has been
turned off, and test for power (see photo, right)
before touching any parts in the subpanel.
Make sure the circuit breaker amperage does not
exceed the ampacity of the circuit wires you are
connecting to it. Also be aware that circuit breaker
styles and installation techniques vary according to
manufacturer. Use breakers made by the panel
manufacturer. You should install AFCI circuit
breakers for most 15- and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits
inside the home.
Test for current before touching any parts inside a circuit breaker panel.
With the main breaker turned off but all other breakers turned on, touch one
probe of a neon tester to the neutral terminal bar, and touch the other probe
to each setscrew on one of the double-pole breakers (not the main breaker).
If the tester does not light for either setscrew, it is safe to work in the panel.
NOTE: Noncontact voltage testers are preferred in

most situations where you are testing for current
because they’re safer. But in some instances, you’ll
need a tester with individual probes to properly check
for current.
How to Connect Circuit Breakers
Shut off the main circuit breaker in the main service panel (if you are
working in a subpanel, shut off the feeder breaker in the main panel).
Remove the panel cover plate, taking care not to touch the parts inside
the panel. Test for power (photo, above right).
Open a knockout in the side of the circuit breaker panel using a
screwdriver and hammer. Attach a cable clamp to the knockout.
Hold the cable across the front of the panel near the knockout, and
mark the sheathing about ½" inside the edge of the panel. Strip the cable
from the marked line to the end using a cable ripper. (There should be
18" to 24" of excess cable.) Insert the cable through the clamp and into
the service panel, and then tighten the clamp.
Bend the bare copper grounding wire around the inside edge of the
panel to an open setscrew terminal on the grounding terminal bar. Insert
the wire into the opening on the terminal bar, and tighten the setscrew.
Fold excess wire around the inside edge of the panel.
For 120-volt circuits, bend the white circuit wire around the outside of
the panel to an open setscrew terminal on the neutral terminal bar. Clip
away excess wire, and then strip ½" of insulation from the wire using a
combination tool. Insert the wire into the terminal opening, and tighten
the setscrew.
Strip ½" of insulation from the end of the black circuit wire. Insert the
wire into the setscrew terminal on a new single-pole circuit breaker, and
tighten the setscrew.
Slide one end of the circuit breaker onto the guide hook, and then
press it firmly against the bus bar until it snaps into place. (Breaker
installation may vary, depending on the manufacturer.) Fold excess
black wire around the inside edge of the panel.
For 120/240-volt circuit (top): Connect red and black wires to the
double-pole breaker. Connect white wire to the neutral terminal bar, and
the grounding wire to grounding terminal bar. For 240-volt circuits
without a neutral (bottom), attach white and black wires to the double-
pole breaker, tagging white wire with black tape. There is no neutral
terminal bar connection on this circuit.
Remove the appropriate breaker tab on the panel cover plate to make
room for the new circuit breaker. A single-pole breaker requires one tab,
while a double-pole breaker requires two tabs. Reattach the cover plate,
and label the new circuit on the panel door index.
Switches
A mong wiring
devices, switches fail
with surprising
frequency. If you’ve
carefully wired a new
circuit or a fixture and
you know you got it
right, but when you turn
on the power it doesn’t
work, you should direct
your attention to any switches in the line. Even
brand-new switches can fail to function correctly.
This is why most professional electricians will pay
the extra couple of dollars to buy a quality switch out
of the gate. It is also why most of them routinely test
each switch for continuity before installing it (see
here–here).
The most basic switches for home wiring are
single-pole switches, which control only one fixture
and have only two screw (or push-in) terminals (not
counting the grounding screw). Next, three-way
switches and four-way switches have more
installation possibilities and control circuits that are
more complicated to wire. Dimmer switches, isolated
ground switches, and motion-sensor switches are
some of the other switch options.
Use caution when you handle switches. The wires
are usually attached to screw terminals on the sides
of the fitting, which makes them very easy to contact
if you grab the switch. Always shut off the power to
the switch before removing the switch cover plate.
Also shut off the power at the service panel if you
will be working downstream from the switch—never
count on a switch that is open to function as a
breaker.
In this chapter:
• Wall Switches
• Types of Wall Switches
• Specialty Switches
• Testing Switches
Wall Switches
A n average wall switch is turned on and off
more than 1,000 times each year. Because switches
receive constant use, wire connections can loosen and
switch parts gradually wear out. If a switch no longer
operates smoothly, it must be replaced.
The methods for replacing a switch vary slightly,
depending on the switch type and its location along
an electrical circuit. When working on a switch, use
the photographs on this page–here to identify your
switch type and its wiring configuration. Individual
switch styles may vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer, but the basic switch types are
universal.
It is possible to replace most ordinary wall
switches with a specialty switch, such as a timer
switch or an electronic switch. When installing a
specialty switch, make sure it is compatible with the
wiring configuration and size of the switch box.
NOTICE: Two changes in the NEC affect how new switch wiring
should be installed. These changes do not affect existing switch
wiring. The pictures and instructions in this book about replacing
existing switches show wiring that does not comply with these new
requirements. This is because you will probably see noncompliant
wiring for many years to come. Pictures and instructions about
installing new switch wiring show wiring that complies with these
new requirements.
One change requires that a wire with white

insulation should not supply current to a light or a
switched receptacle, even when the wire is marked as
hot. A black or red colored wire should supply
current to the outlet. A white colored wire, marked as
hot, may supply current to the switch when wiring 3-
way and 4-way switches.
The other change requires that a neutral wire be
available at switch boxes. An exception allows you to
ignore this requirement if the switch box is accessible
from above or below, such as from a basement,
crawlspace, or attic. This new requirement is
intended to allow easier installation of devices, such
as intelligent switch controllers, that need power for
controller operation.
A typical wall switch has a movable metal arm that opens and closes the
electrical circuit. When the switch is ON, the arm completes the circuit and
power flows between the screw terminals and through the black hot wire to
the light fixture. When the switch is OFF, the arm lifts away to interrupt the
circuit, and no power flows. Switch problems can occur if the screw
terminals are not tight or if the metal arm inside the switch wears out.
NOTE: The switch at right has had part of its housing removed so
the interior workings can be seen. Switches or fixtures that are not
in original condition should never be installed.
Rotary snap switches are found in many installations completed between
1900 and 1920. The handle is twisted clockwise to turn light on and off.
The switch is enclosed in a ceramic housing.
Push-button switches were widely used from 1920 until about 1940. Many
switches of this type are still in operation. Reproductions of this switch type
are available for restoration projects.
Toggle switches were introduced in the 1930s. This early design has a
switch mechanism that is mounted in a ceramic housing sealed with a layer
of insulating paper.
Toggle switches were improved during the 1950s and are now the most
commonly used type. This switch type was the first to use a sealed plastic
housing that protects the inner switch mechanism from dust and moisture.
Mercury switches became common in the early 1960s. They conduct

electrical current by means of a sealed vial of mercury. No longer
manufactured for home use, old mercury switches are considered a
hazardous waste.
Electronic motion-sensor switches have an infrared eye that senses

movement and automatically turns on lights when a person enters a room.
Motion-sensor switches can provide added security against intruders.
Types of Wall Switches
W all switches are available in three general
types. To reconnect or replace a switch, it is
important to identify its type.
Single-pole switches are used to control a set of
lights from one location. Three-way switches are
used to control a set of lights from two different
locations and are always installed in pairs. Four-way
switches are used in combination with a pair of three-
way switches to control a set of lights from three or
more locations.
Identify switch types by counting the screw
terminals. Single-pole switches have two screw
terminals, three-way switches have three screw
terminals, and four-way switches have four. Most
switches include a grounding screw terminal, which
is identified by its green color.
When replacing a switch, choose a new switch
that has the same number of screw terminals as the
old one. The location of the screws on the switch
body varies depending on the manufacturer, but these
differences will not affect the switch operation.
Whenever possible, connect switches using the
screw terminals rather than push-in fittings. Some
specialty switches (here–here) have wire leads
instead of screw terminals. They are connected to
circuit wires with wire connectors.
A wall switch is connected to circuit wires with screw terminals or with
push-in fittings on the back of the switch. A switch may have a stamped
strip gauge that indicates how much insulation must be stripped from the
circuit wires to make the connections.
The switch body is attached to a metal mounting strap that allows it to be

mounted in an electrical box. Several rating stamps are found on the strap
and on the back of the switch. The abbreviation UL or UND. LAB. INC.
LIST means that the switch meets the safety standards of the Underwriters
Laboratories. Switches also are stamped with maximum voltage and
amperage ratings. Standard wall switches are rated 15A or 125V. Voltage
ratings of 110, 120, and 125 are considered to be identical for purposes of
identification.
For standard wall switch installations, choose a switch that has a wire
gauge rating of #12 or #14. For wire systems with solid-core copper wiring,
use only switches marked COPPER, CU, or CO/ ALR. For aluminum
wiring, use only switches marked CO/ALR. Note that while CO/ALR
switches and receptacles are approved by the National Electrical Code for
use with aluminum wiring, the Consumer Products Safety Commission does
not recommend using these. Switches and receptacles marked AL/CU can
no longer be used with aluminum wiring, according to the National
Electrical Code.
Single-Pole Wall Switches
A single-pole switch is the most common type of
wall switch. It has ON-OFF markings on the switch
lever and is used to control a set of lights, an
appliance, or a receptacle from a single location. A
single-pole switch has two screw terminals and a
grounding screw. When installing a single-pole
switch, check to make sure the ON marking shows
when the switch lever is in the up position.
In a correctly wired single-pole switch, a hot
circuit wire is attached to each screw terminal.
However, the color and number of wires inside the
switch box will vary, depending on the location of the
switch along the electrical circuit.
If two cables enter the box, then the switch lies in
the middle of the circuit. In this installation, both of
the hot wires attached to the switch are black.
If only one cable enters the box, then the switch
lies at the end of the circuit. In this installation
(sometimes called a switch loop), one of the hot
wires is black, but the other hot wire usually is white.
A white hot wire should be coded with black tape or
paint.
A single-pole switch is essentially an interruption in the black power
supply wire that is opened or closed with the toggle. Single-pole switches
are the simplest of all home wiring switches.
Typical Single-Pole Switch Installations
Two cables enter the box when a switch is located in the middle of a
circuit. Each cable has a white and a black insulated wire, plus a bare
copper grounding wire. The black wires are hot and are connected to the
screw terminals on the switch. The white wires are neutral and are joined
together with a wire connector. Grounding wires are pigtailed to the switch.
Old method: One cable enters the box when a switch is located at the end
of a circuit. In this installation, both of the insulated wires are hot. The
white wire should be labeled with black tape or paint to identify it as a hot
wire. The grounding wire is connected to the switch grounding screw.
New method: In new switch wiring, the white wire should not supply
current to the switched device and a separate neutral wire should be
available in the switch box.
Three-Way Wall Switches
Three-way switches have three screw terminals and
do not have ON-OFF markings. Three-way switches
are always installed in pairs and are used to control a
set of lights from two locations.
One of the screw terminals on a three-way switch
is darker than the others. This screw is the common
screw terminal. The position of the common screw
terminal on the switch body may vary, depending on
the manufacturer. Before disconnecting a three-way
switch, always label the wire that is connected to the
common screw terminal. It must be reconnected to
the common screw terminal on the new switch.
The two lighter-colored screw terminals on a
three-way switch are called the traveler screw
terminals. The traveler terminals are interchangeable,
so there is no need to label the wires attached to
them.
Because three-way switches are installed in pairs,
it sometimes is difficult to determine which of the
switches is causing a problem. The switch that
receives greater use is more likely to fail, but you
may need to inspect both switches to find the source
of the problem.
Typical Three-Way Switch Installation
Two cables enter the box: One cable has two wires, plus a bare copper
grounding wire; the other cable has three wires, plus a ground. The black
wire from the two-wire cable is connected to the dark common screw
terminal. The red and black wires from the three-wire cable are connected
to the traveler screw terminals. The white neutral wires are joined together
with a wire connector, and the grounding wires are pigtailed to the switch
grounding terminal.
How to Replace a Three-Way Wall Switch
Turn off the power to the switch at the panel, and then remove the
switch cover plate and mounting screws. Holding the mounting strap
carefully, pull the switch from the box. Be careful not to touch the bare
wires or screw terminals until they have been tested for power.
NOTE: If you are installing a new switch circuit, you must

provide a neutral conductor at the switch.
Test for power by touching the probe of a noncontact voltage tester to
each wire and screw terminal. Tester should not glow. If it does, there is
still power entering the box. Return to the panel, and turn off the correct
circuit, then test again for power.
Locate the dark common screw terminal, and use masking tape to
label the “common” wire attached to it. Disconnect wires and remove
switch. Test the switch for continuity. If it tests faulty, buy a
replacement. Inspect wires for nicks and scratches. If necessary, clip
damaged wires and strip them.
Connect the common wire to the dark common screw terminal on the
switch. On most three-way switches, the common screw terminal is
black. Or it may be labeled with the word COMMON stamped on the
back of the switch. Reconnect the grounding screw, and connect it to the
circuit grounding wires with a pigtail.
Connect the remaining two circuit wires to the screw terminals. These
wires are interchangeable and can be connected to either screw terminal.
Carefully tuck the wires into the box. Remount the switch, and attach
the cover plate. Turn on the power at the panel.
Four-Way Wall Switches
Four-way switches have four screw terminals and do
not have ON-OFF markings. Four-way switches are
always installed between a pair of three-way
switches. This switch combination makes it possible
to control a set of lights from three or more locations.
Four-way switches are common in homes where
large rooms contain multiple living areas, such as a
kitchen opening into a dining room. Switch problems
in a four-way installation can be caused by loose
connections or worn parts in a four-way switch or in
one of the three-way switches (facing page).
In a typical installation, there will be a pair of
three-wire cables that enter the box for the four-way
switch. With most switches, the black and red wires
from one cable should be attached to the bottom or
top pair of screw terminals, and the black and red
wires from the other cable should be attached to the
remaining pair of screw terminals. However, not all
switches are configured the same way, and wiring
configurations in the box may vary, so always study
the wiring diagram that comes with the switch.
Common Four-Way Switch Installation
Four wires are connected to a four-way switch. The black and red wires
from one cable are attached to the top pair of screw terminals, while the
black and red wires from the other cable are attached to the bottom screw
terminals. In new switch wiring, the white wires are joined and bypass the
switch but remain available for future use.
Switch variation: Some four-way switches have a wiring guide stamped on
the back to help simplify installation. For the switch shown above, one pair
of color-matched circuit wires will be connected to the screw terminals
marked LINE 1, while the other pair of wires will be attached to the screw
terminals marked LINE 2.
How to Replace a Four-Way Wall Switch
Turn off the power to the switch at the panel, and then remove the
switch cover plate and mounting screws. Holding the mounting strap
carefully, pull the switch from the box. Be careful not to touch any bare
wires or screw terminals until they have been tested for power. Test for
power by touching each wire and terminal with a noncontact voltage
tester. The tester should not glow. If it does, there is still power entering
the box. Return to the panel, and turn off the correct circuit.
Disconnect the wires and inspect them for nicks and scratches. If
necessary, clip damaged wires and strip them. Test the switch for
continuity (here–here). Buy a replacement if the switch tests faulty.
Connect two hot wires from one incoming cable to the top set of screw
terminals.
Attach remaining hot wires to the other set of screw terminals. Pigtail
the grounding wires to the grounding screw. Carefully tuck the wires
inside the switch box, and then remount the switch and cover plate. Turn
on power at the panel.
Double Switches
A double switch has two switch levers in a single
housing. It is used to control two light fixtures or
appliances from the same switch box.
In most installations, both halves of the switch are
powered by the same circuit. In these single-circuit
installations, three wires are connected to the double
switch. One wire, called the feed wire (which is hot),
supplies power to both halves of the switch. The
other wires, called the switch leg, carry power out to
the individual light fixtures or appliances.
In rare installations, each half of the switch is
powered by a separate circuit. In these separate-
circuit installations, four wires are connected to the
switch, and the metal connecting tab joining two of
the screw terminals is removed (see photo below).
Single-circuit wiring: Three black wires are attached to the switch. The
black feed wire bringing power into the box is connected to the side of the
switch that has a connecting tab. The wires carrying power out to the light
fixtures or appliances are connected to the side of the switch that does not
have a connecting tab. The white neutral wires are connected together with
a wire connector.
Separate-circuit wiring: Four black wires are attached to the switch. Feed
wires from the power source are attached to the side of the switch that has a
connecting tab, and the connecting tab is removed (photo, right). Wires
carrying power from the switch to light fixtures or appliances are connected
to the side of the switch that does not have a connecting tab. White neutral
wires are connected together with a wire connector.
Remove the connecting tab on a double switch when wired in a separate-
circuit installation. The tab can be removed with needlenose pliers or a
screwdriver.
Pilot-Light Switches
A pilot-light switch has a built-in bulb that glows
when power flows through the switch to a light
fixture or appliance. Pilot-light switches often are
installed for convenience if a light fixture or
appliance cannot be seen from the switch location.
Basement lights, garage lights, and attic exhaust fans
frequently are controlled by pilot-light switches.
A pilot-light switch requires a neutral wire
connection. A switch box that contains a single two-
wire cable has only hot wires and cannot be fitted
with a pilot-light switch.
Pilot-light switch wiring: Three wires are connected to the switch. One
black wire is the feed wire that brings power into the box. It is connected to
the brass (gold) screw terminal on the side of the switch that does not have
a connecting tab. The white neutral wires are pigtailed to the silver screw
terminal. The black wire carrying power out to a light fixture or appliance is
connected to the screw terminal on the side of the switch that has a
connecting tab.
Switch/Receptacles
A switch/receptacle combines a grounded receptacle
with a single-pole wall switch. In a room that does
not have enough wall receptacles, electrical service
can be improved by replacing a single-pole switch
with a switch/receptacle.
A switch/receptacle requires a neutral wire
connection. A switch box that contains a single two-
wire cable has only hot wires and cannot be fitted
with a switch/receptacle.
A switch/receptacle can be installed in one of two
ways. In the most common installations, the
receptacle is hot even when the switch is off (photo,
right).
In rare installations, a switch/ receptacle is wired
so the receptacle is hot only when the switch is on. In
this installation, the hot wires are reversed, so that the
feed wire is attached to the brass screw terminal on
the side of the switch that does not have a connecting
tab.
Switch/receptacle wiring: Three wires are connected to the
switch/receptacle. One of the hot wires is the feed wire that brings power
into the box. It is connected to the side of the switch that has a connecting
tab. The other hot wire carries power out to the light fixture or appliance. It
is connected to the brass screw terminal on the side that does not have a
connecting tab. The white neutral wire is pigtailed to the silver screw
terminal. The grounding wires must be pigtailed to the green grounding
screw on the switch/receptacle and to the grounded metal box.
Specialty Switches
Y our house may have several types of specialty
switches. Dimmer switches (here–here) are used
frequently to control light intensity in dining and
recreation areas. Timer switches and time-delay
switches (below) are used to control light fixtures and
exhaust fans automatically. Electronic switches
provide added convenience and home security, and
they are easy to install. Electronic switches are
durable, and they rarely need replacement.
Most specialty switches have preattached wire
leads instead of screw terminals and are connected to
circuit wires with wire connectors. Some motor-
driven timer switches require a neutral wire
connection and cannot be installed in switch boxes
that have only one cable with two hot wires. It is
precisely due to the rise in popularity of “smart”
switches that the NEC Code was changed in 2014 to
require an available neutral wire in newly installed
switch boxes.
If a specialty switch is not operating correctly, you
may be able to test it with a continuity tester. Timer
switches and time-delay switches can be tested for
continuity, but dimmer switches cannot be tested.
With electronic switches, the manual switch can be
tested for continuity, but the automatic features
cannot be tested.
Countdown timer switch. This rocker-type switch gives you the option to
easily program the switch to shut off after a specified time: from 5 to 60
minutes. Garage lights or basement lights are good applications: anywhere
you want the light to stay on long enough to allow you to exit, but not to
stay on indefinitely. These switches often are used to control exhaust fans.
Programmable timer switch. A digital or dial-type timer allows you to
program the switch to turn on for specific time periods at designated times
of day within a 24-hour cycle. Security lights, space heaters, towel
warmers, and radiant floors are typical applications.
Occupancy sensor. Many smart switches incorporate a motion detector that
will switch the lights on if they sense movement in the room and will also
shut them off when no movement is detected for a period of time. The
model shown above also has a dimmer function for further energy savings.
Spring-wound timer switch. A relatively simple device, this timer switch
functions exactly like a kitchen timer, employing a hand-turned dial to and
spring mechanism to shut the switch off in increments up to 15 minutes.
Daylight sensor switch. This switch automatically turns on when light
levels drop below a proscribed level. It can also be programmed as an
occupancy sensor to shut off when the room is vacant and turn on when the
room is entered.
Smart switches let you control lights from a smart phone or other
compatible device, such as a smart speaker, without the need for a central
hub (a common requirement with early smart home systems).
Dimmer Switches
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdriver
Circuit tester
Needlenose pliers
Wire connectors
Masking tape
A dimmer switch makes it possible to vary the

brightness of a light fixture. Dimmers are often
installed in dining rooms, recreation areas, or
bedrooms. Do not install a dimmer at stairway light
switches unless you install a dimmer at all switches.
Any standard single-pole switch can be replaced
with a dimmer, as long as the switch box is of
adequate size. Dimmer switches have larger bodies
than standard switches. They also generate a small
amount of heat that must dissipate. For these reasons,
dimmers should not be installed in undersized
electrical boxes or in boxes that are crowded with
circuit wires. Always follow the manufacturer’s
specifications for installation.
In lighting configurations that use three-way
switches (here), buy a packaged pair of three-way
dimmers designed to work together.
Dimmer switches are available in several styles
(see photo, right). All types have wire leads instead
of screw terminals, and they are connected to circuit
wires using wire connectors. Some types have a
green grounding lead that should be connected to the
grounded metal box or to the bare copper grounding
wires. Until recently, dimmers were designed to work
only with incandescent lamps. They may not work
well, or may not work at all, with CFL and LED
lamps. When replacing incandescent lamps with CFL
and LED lamps, make sure the new lamps are
designed to work with older dimmers. When
replacing dimmers, make sure the new dimmers are
designed to work with CFL and LED lamps.
TIP: AUTOMATIC DIMMERS

An automatic dimmer has an electronic sensor that adjusts
the light fixture to compensate for the changing levels of
natural light. An automatic dimmer also can be operated
manually. For another example, see here, lower left.
Switch Action Options
Toggle‑type dimmers resemble standard switches. Toggle dimmers are

available in both single‑pole and three‑way designs. The model shown
supports incandescent, fluorescent, and LED dimmable blubs.
Dial‑type dimmers are the most common style. Rotating the dial changes
the light intensity.
Slide‑action dimmers have illuminated faces that make the switch easy to
locate in the dark.
Rocker type switches control dimmable incandescent, fluorescent, LED, or
halogen bulbs.
How to Install a Dimmer Switch
Turn off power to the switch at the panel, and then remove the cover
plate and mounting screws. Holding the mounting straps carefully, pull
the switch from the box. Be careful not to touch bare wires or screw
terminals until they have been tested for power. In new switch wiring,
the white wire should not supply current to the switched device, and a
separate neutral wire should be available in the switch box.
Disconnect the circuit wires and remove the switch. Straighten the
circuit wires, and clip the ends, leaving about ½" of the bare wire end
exposed.
Connect the wire leads on the dimmer switch to the circuit wires
using wire connectors. The switch leads are interchangeable and can be
attached to either of the two hot circuit wires.
A three-way dimmer has an additional wire lead. This “common”
lead is connected to the common circuit wire. When replacing a
standard three-way switch with a dimmer, the common circuit wire is
attached to the darkest screw terminal on the old switch. In new switch
wiring, the white wire should not supply current to the switched device,
and a separate neutral wire should be available in the switch box.
Testing Switches
A switch that does not work properly may have
worn or broken internal parts. Test switches with a
battery-operated continuity tester. The continuity
tester detects any break in the metal pathway inside
the switch. Replace the switch if the continuity tester
shows the switch to be faulty.
Never use a continuity tester on wires that might
carry live current. Always shut off the power and
disconnect the switch before testing for continuity.
Some specialty switches, such as dimmers, cannot
be tested for continuity. Electronic switches can be
tested for manual operation using a continuity tester,
but the automatic operation of these switches cannot
be tested.
How to Test a Single-Pole Wall Switch
Attach the clip of the tester to one of the screw terminals. Touch the
tester probe to the other screw terminal. Flip the switch lever from ON
to OFF. If the switch is good, the tester glows when the lever is ON but
not when it’s OFF.
A continuity tester uses battery-generated current to test the metal
pathways running through switches and other electrical fixtures. Always
“test” the tester before use. Touch the tester clip to the metal probe. The
tester should glow. If not, then the battery or lightbulb is dead and must be
replaced.
How to Test a Three-Way Wall Switch
Attach the tester clip to the dark common screw terminal. Touch the
tester probe to one of the traveler screw terminals, and flip the switch
lever back and forth. If the switch is good, the tester should glow when
the lever is in one position, but not both.
Touch the probe to the other traveler screw terminal, and flip the
switch lever back and forth. If the switch is good, the tester will glow
only when the switch lever is in the position opposite from the positive
test in step 1.
How to Test a Four-Way Wall Switch
Test the switch by touching the probe and clip of the continuity tester
to each pair of screw terminals (A-B, C-D, A-D, B-C, A-C, B-D). The
test should show continuous pathways between the two different pairs of
screw terminals. Flip the lever to the opposite position, and repeat the
test. It should show continuous pathways between two different pairs of
screw terminals.
If the switch is good, the test will show a total of four continuous
pathways between screw terminals—two pathways for each lever
position. If not, then the switch is faulty and must be replaced. (The
arrangement of the pathways may differ, depending on the switch
manufacturer. The photo above shows the three possible pathway
arrangements.)
How to Test a Pilot-Light Switch
Test the pilot light by flipping the switch lever to the ON position.
Check to see if the light fixture or appliance is working. If the pilot light
does not glow even though the switch operates the light fixture or
appliance, then the pilot light is defective and the unit must be replaced.
Test the switch by disconnecting the unit. With the switch lever in the
ON position, attach the tester clip to the top screw terminal on one side
of the switch. Touch the tester probe to the top screw terminal on the
opposite side of the switch. If the switch is good, the tester will glow
when switch is ON but not when OFF.
How to Test a Timer Switch
Attach the tester clip to the red wire lead on the timer switch, and
touch the tester probe to the black hot lead. Rotate the timer dial
clockwise until the ON tab passes the arrow marker. The tester should
glow. If it does not, the switch is faulty and must be replaced.
Rotate the dial clockwise until the OFF tab passes the arrow marker.
The tester should not glow. If it does, the switch is faulty and must be
replaced.
How to Test a Switch/ Receptacle
Attach the tester clip to one of the top screw terminals. Touch the
tester probe to the top screw terminal on the opposite side. Flip the
switch lever from ON to OFF position. If the switch is working
correctly, the tester will glow when the switch lever is ON but not when
it’s OFF.
How to Test a Double Switch
Test each half of the switch by attaching the tester clip to one screw
terminal and touching the probe to the opposite side. Flip the switch
lever from ON to OFF position. If the switch is good, the tester glows
when the switch lever is ON but not when it’s OFF. Repeat the test with
the remaining pair of screw terminals. If either half tests faulty, replace
the unit.
How to Test a Time-Delay Switch
Attach the tester clip to one of the wire leads, and touch the tester
probe to the other lead. Set the timer for a few minutes. If the switch is
working correctly, the tester will glow until the time expires.
How to Test Manual Operation of Electronic
Switches
Automatic switch: Attach the tester clip to a black wire lead, and touch
the tester probe to the other black lead. Flip the manual switch lever
from ON to OFF position. If the switch is working correctly, the tester
will glow when the switch lever is ON but not when it’s OFF.
Programmable switch: Attach the tester clip to a wire lead, and touch
the tester probe to the other lead. Flip the manual switch lever from ON
to OFF position. If the switch is working correctly, the tester will glow
when the switch lever is ON but not when it’s OFF.
Motion-sensor switch: Attach the tester clip to a wire lead, and touch
the tester probe to the other lead. Flip the manual switch lever from ON
to OFF position. If the switch is working correctly, the tester will glow
when the switch lever is ON but not when it’s OFF.
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Receptacles
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Whether you call them outlets, plug-ins, or receptacles, these important

devices represent the point where the rubber meets the road in your home
wiring system. From the basic 15-amp, 120-volt duplex receptacle to the
burly 50-amp, 240-volt appliance receptacle, the many receptacles in your
home do pretty much the same thing: transmit power to a load.
Learning the differences among receptacles does not take long. You need to
know the amperage and voltage, and the number of devices on the circuit to
select the correct receptacle. For circuits with one receptacle, match the
circuit and receptacle amperage and voltage. A duplex receptacle (with a
space for two plugs) counts as two receptacles. Use 15-amp receptacles on
15-amp circuits with multiple receptacles. Use either 15- or 20-amp
receptacles on 20-amp circuits with multiple receptacles. Twenty-amp
receptacles have the horizontal slot that forms a T with the large slot.
Receptacles for 240-volt service have unique slot configurations so you
can’t accidentally plug in an appliance that’s not rated for the amperage in
the circuit. Some receptacles provide protection against dangerous
situations such as ground faults and arc faults tripping themselves off if
they detect a problem. Ground-fault (GFCI) and arc-fault (AFCI)
receptacles are easy to identify by the test and reset buttons on their faces.
One last bit of information about receptacles: like switches, they vary quite
a bit in quality. Paying the extra couple of dollars for a well made, durable
device is worth the money.
In this chapter:
• Types of Receptacles
• Receptacle Wiring
• GFCI Receptacles
• Testing Receptacles
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Types of Receptacles
Several different types of receptacles are found in the typical home. Each
has a unique arrangement of slots that accepts only a certain kind of plug,
and each is designed for a specific job.
Household receptacles provide two types of voltage: normal and high.

Although voltage ratings have changed slightly over the years, normal
receptacles should be rated for 110, 115, 120, or 125 volts. For purposes of
replacement, these ratings are considered identical. High-voltage
receptacles are rated at 220, 240, or 250 volts. These ratings are considered
identical.
When replacing a receptacle, check the amperage rating of the circuit at the
main service panel, and buy a receptacle with the correct amperage rating.
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15 amps, 120 volts. Polarized two-slot receptacles are common in

homes built before 1960. Slots are different sizes to accept
polarized plugs.
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15 amps, 120 volts. Three-slot grounded receptacles have two

different-sized slots and a U-shaped hole for grounding, which is
required in all new wiring installations.
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20 amps, 120 volts. This three-slot grounded receptacle features a

special T-shaped slot. It is installed for use with large appliances
or portable tools that require 20 amps of current.
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15 amps, 240 volts. This receptacle is used primarily for window

air conditioners. It is available as a single unit or as half of a
duplex receptacle, with the other half wired for 120 volts.
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30 amps, 120/240 volts. This grounded receptacle is used for

clothes dryers. It provides high-voltage current for heating coils
and 120 volts to run lights and timers.
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50 amps, 120/240 volts. This new grounded receptacle is used for

ranges. The high voltage powers heating coils, and the 120-volts
run clocks and lights.
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Older Receptacles
Older receptacles may look different from more modern types, but most
will stay in good working order. Follow these simple guidelines for
evaluating or replacing older receptacles:
• Never replace a receptacle with one of a different voltage or higher

amperage rating.
• Do not replace a two-slot receptacle with a three-slot receptacle.
Replace the two-slot receptacle with a polarized two-slot receptacle or
with a GFCI receptacle.
• If in doubt, contact an electrician.
• Never alter the prongs of a plug to fit an older receptacle. Altering
the prongs may remove the grounding or polarizing features of the
plug.
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The earliest receptacles were modifications of the screw-in light-
bulb. This receptacle was used in the early 1900s.
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Unpolarized receptacles have same-length slots. Modern plugs

may not fit these receptacles. Never modify the prongs of a
polarized plug to fit the slots of an unpolarized receptacle.
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Surface-mounted receptacles were popular in the 1940s and

1950s for their ease of installation. Wiring ran behind hollowed-
out base moldings. These receptacles are usually ungrounded.
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Ceramic duplex receptacles were manufactured in the 1930s.

They are polarized but ungrounded, and they are wired for 120
volts.
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Twist-lock receptacles are designed to be used with plugs that are

inserted and rotated. A small tab on the end of one of the prongs
prevents the plug from being pulled from the receptacle.
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This ceramic duplex receptacle has a unique hourglass shape. It is

rated for 250 volts but only 5 amps and would not be allowed by
today’s electrical codes.
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High-Voltage Receptacles
High-voltage receptacles provide current to large appliances such as clothes
dryers, ranges, and air conditioners. The slot configuration of a high-
voltage receptacle (here) will not accept a plug rated for 120 volts.
A high-voltage receptacle can be wired in one of two ways. In one type of

high-voltage receptacle, voltage is brought to the receptacle with two hot
wires, each carrying a maximum of 120 volts. No white neutral wire is
necessary, but a grounding wire should be attached to the receptacle and to
the receptacle box (if it is metal).
A clothes dryer or range also may require 120 volts to run lights, timers,
and clocks. If so, a white neutral wire will be attached to the receptacle.
The appliance itself will split the incoming electricity into a 120-volt circuit
and a 240-volt circuit.
When replacing a high-voltage receptacle, it is important to identify and tag

all wires on the existing receptacle so that the new receptacle will be
properly wired.
Grounding wire Red hot wire White neutral wire Black hot
wire Screw terminals
A receptacle rated for 120/240 volts has two incoming hot wires,
each carrying 120 volts, a white neutral wire, and a copper
grounding wire. Connections are made with setscrew terminals at
the back of the receptacle.
Grounding wires Black hot wire White hot wire coded black
for hot Screw terminals
One type of receptacle rated for 240 volts has two incoming hot
wires and no neutral wire. A grounding wire is pigtailed to the
receptacle and to the metal receptacle box.
Hard plastic box Screw terminals Red hot wire Green ground
wire Conduit Black hot wire White neutral wire
This surface-mounted receptacle rated for 240 volts has a hard
plastic box that can be installed on concrete or block walls.
Surface-mounted receptacles are often found in basements and
utility rooms.
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Childproofing
Tamper-resistant (TR) receptacles are now required in all new residential

installations and when replacing an existing 3-slot receptacle. Tamper-
resistant receptacles contain an internal safety device that prevents a child
from inserting an object into the receptacle slots and getting a shock.
For standard existing receptacles, you can make them childproof or adapt
them for special uses by adding receptacle accessories. Before installing an
accessory, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Homeowners with small children should add inexpensive caps or covers to

guard against accidental electric shocks.
Plastic caps do not conduct electricity and are virtually impossible for small
children to remove. A receptacle cover attaches directly to the receptacle
and fits over plugs, preventing the cords from being removed.
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Standard receptacles present a real shock hazard to small

children. Fortunately there are many products that make
receptacles safer without making them less convenient.
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Tamper-resistant receptacles are labeled with "TR" on their faces.

Use them for all new installations and replacements of 3-slot
receptacles (including GFCI and AFCI types).
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Cover standard receptacles with childproofing plugs to prevent
children from having access to the slots.
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Duplex Receptacles
Stamp of approval Long (neutral) slot Silver (neutral) screw

terminals Mounting strap Short (hot) slot Grounding hole
Connecting tab Brass (hot) screw terminals Push-in fitting Wire
ratings Wire type Amperage rating Voltage rating Green
(grounding) screw terminal FRONT BACK
The standard duplex receptacle has two halves for receiving

plugs. Each half has a long (neutral) slot, a short (hot) slot, and a
U-shaped grounding hole. The slots fit the wide prong, narrow
prong, and grounding prong of a three-prong plug. This ensures
that the connection between receptacle and plug will be polarized
and grounded for safety.
Wires are attached to the receptacle at screw terminals or push-in

fittings. A connecting tab between the screw terminals allows a
variety of different wiring configurations. Receptacles also
include mounting straps for attaching to electrical boxes.
Stamps of approval from testing agencies are found on the front

and back of the receptacle. Look for the symbol UL or UND.
LAB. INC. LIST to make sure the receptacle meets the strict
standards of Underwriters Laboratories.
The receptacle is marked with ratings for maximum volts and

amps. The common receptacle is marked 15A, 125V. Receptacles
marked CU or COPPER are used with solid copper wire. Those
marked CU-CLAD ONLY are used with copper-coated aluminum
wire. Only receptacles marked CO/ALR may be used with solid
aluminum wiring. Receptacles marked AL/CU no longer may be
used with aluminum wire, according to code.
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AFCI receptacles have integral protection against arc faults and

may be required in some remodeling situations where AFCI
protection cannot be provided at the panel.
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The ground-fault circuit-interrupter, or GFCI, receptacle is a

modern safety device. When it detects slight changes in current, it
instantly shuts off power. The larger picture shows a modern
GFCI with an alert bulb that lights when the device is tripped.
The older but more familiar style is seen in the inset photo.
images COMMON RECEPTACLE PROBLEMS
Household receptacles, also called outlets, have no moving parts to wear

out and usually last for many years. Most problems associated with
receptacles are actually caused by faulty lamps and appliances or their
plugs and cords. However, the constant plugging in and removal of
appliance cords can wear out the metal contacts inside a receptacle. Any
receptacle that does not hold plugs firmly should be replaced. In addition,
older receptacles made of hard plastic may harden and crack with age.
They must be replaced when this happens.
A loose wire connection with the receptacle box is another possible

problem. A loose connection can spark (called arcing), trip a circuit
breaker, or cause heat to build up in the receptacle box, creating a potential
fire hazard.
Wires can come loose for a number of reasons. Everyday vibrations caused
by walking across floors, or from nearby street traffic, may cause a
connection to shake loose. In addition, because wires heat and cool with
normal use, the ends of the wires will expand and contract slightly. This
movement also may cause the wires to come loose from the screw terminal
connections. Another common cause is wires coming loose from push-in
wire connections.
Not all receptacles are created equally. When replacing, make sure to buy
one with the same amp rating as the old one. Inadvertently installing a 20-
amp receptacle in replacement of a 15-amp receptacle is a very common
error.
PROBLEM REPAIR
1. 1. Repair or replace worn or
damaged lamp or appliance
cord.
2. 2. Move lamps or appliances
to other circuits to prevent
Circuit breaker trips repeatedly or fuse overloads.
burns out immediately after being 3. 3. Tighten any loose wire
connections.
replaced.
4. 4. Clean dirty or oxidized
wire ends.
5. 5. Bad AFCI, especially
those from the early 2000s.
Replace AFCI.
1. 1. Make sure the lamp or

appliance is plugged in.
2. 2. Replace burned-out bulbs.
3. 3. Repair or replace a worn
or damaged lamp or
appliance cord.
Lamp or appliance does not work. 4. 4. Tighten any loose wire
connections.
wire ends.
6. 6. Replace any faulty
receptacle.
Receptacle does not hold plugs firmly. 1. 1. Repair or replace worn or

damaged plugs.
2. 2. Replace the faulty
receptacle.
1. 1. Move lamps or appliances
to other circuits to prevent
overloads.
2. 2. Tighten any loose wire
Receptacle is warm to the touch, buzzes,
connections.
or sparks when plugs are inserted or
removed.
wire ends.
4. 4. Replace the faulty
receptacle.
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Receptacle Wiring
A 120-volt duplex receptacle can be wired to the electrical system in
several ways. The most common are shown on these pages.
Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to install new

receptacles, lights, or switches requires a permit. The electrical inspector
may require that you install arc-fault protection on the entire circuit. Check
with the electrical inspector before starting such projects.
Wiring configurations may vary slightly from these photographs,

depending on the kind of receptacles used, the type of cable, or the
technique of the electrician who installed the wiring. To make dependable
repairs or replacements, use masking tape and label each wire according to
its location on the terminals of the existing receptacle.
Receptacles are wired as either end-of-run or middle-of-run. These two

basic configurations are easily identified by counting the number of cables
entering the receptacle box. End-of-run wiring has only one cable,
indicating that the circuit ends. Middle-of-run wiring has two cables,
indicating that the circuit continues on to other receptacles, switches, or
fixtures.
A split-circuit receptacle is shown on the next page. Each half of a split-

circuit receptacle is wired to a separate circuit. This allows two appliances
of high current to be plugged into the same receptacle without tripping a
breaker or blowing a fuse. This wiring configuration is similar to a
receptacle that is controlled by a wall switch. Code requires a switch-
controlled receptacle in most rooms that do not have a built-in light fixture
operated by a wall switch.
Split-circuit and switch-controlled receptacles are connected to two hot

wires, so use caution during repairs or replacements. Make sure the
connecting tab between the hot screw terminals is removed.
Two-slot receptacles are common in older homes. There is no grounding

wire attached to the receptacle, but the metal box may be grounded with
armored cable or metal conduit.
White neutral wire Grounding screw Brass screw terminal

Silver screw terminal Black hot wire Metal receptacle box
Grounding wires Grounding screw terminal
A single cable entering the box indicates end-of-run wiring. The

black hot wire is attached to a brass screw terminal, and the white
neutral wire is connected to a silver screw terminal. If the box is
metal, the grounding wire is pigtailed to the grounding screws of
the receptacle and the box. In a plastic box, the grounding wire is
attached directly to the grounding screw terminal of the
receptacle.
White neutral wires Grounding screw Black hot wires Silver

screw terminals Brass screw terminals Grounding screw terminal
Grounding wires
Two cables entering the box indicate middle-of-run wiring. Black

hot wires are connected to brass screw terminals and white
neutral wires to silver screw terminals. The grounding wire is
pigtailed to the grounding screws of the receptacle and the box.
White neutral wire Grounding screw Silver screw terminal

Brass screw terminal Black hot wire Red hot wire Grounding
screw terminal Grounding wires Single cable entering the box
indicates end-of-run wiring
A split-circuit receptacle (technically a multiwire branch circuit)

is attached to a black hot wire, a red hot wire, a white neutral
wire, and a bare grounding wire. The wiring is similar to a
switch-controlled receptacle. The hot wires are attached to the
brass screw terminals, and the connecting tab or fin between the
brass terminals is removed. The white wire is attached to a silver
screw terminal, and the connecting tab on the neutral side
remains intact. The grounding wire is pigtailed to the grounding
screw terminal of the receptacle and to the grounding screw
attached to the box.
Note: A receptacle wired like this must be fed by a double-pole circuit

breaker (with each hot wire connecting to a terminal on the breaker) or by
two single-pole breakers connected with a handle tie. This ensures that both
halves of the receptacle are always shut off at the same time, to prevent
accidents.
Black hot wires Silver screw terminal Brass screw terminal

White neutral wires Two cables entering the box indicates
middle-of-run wiring
A two-slot receptacle is often found in older homes. The black

hot wires are connected to the brass screw terminals, and the
white neutral wires are pigtailed to a silver screw terminal.Two-
slot receptacles may be replaced with three-slot types, but only if
a means of grounding exists at the receptacle box. In some
municipalities, you may replace a two-slot receptacle with a
GFCI receptacle as long as the receptacle has a label that reads
“No equipment ground.”
images How to Install a New Receptacle
Position the new old-work box on the wall and trace around it.
Consider the location of hidden utilities within the wall before
you cut.
Remove baseboard between the new and existing receptacle. Cut

away the drywall about 1" below the baseboard with a jigsaw,
drywall saw, or utility knife.
Drill a ⅝" hole in the center of each stud along the opening
between the two receptacles. A drill bit extender or a flexible drill
bit will allow you a better angle and make drilling the holes
easier.
Run the branch cable through the holes from the new location to
the existing receptacle. Staple the cable to the stud below the box.
Install a metal nail plate on the front edge of each stud that the
cable routes through.
5 New receptacle location Old receptacle location
Turn off the power at the panel and test for power. Remove the
old receptacle and its box, and pull the new branch cable up
through the hole. Remove sheathing and insulation from both
ends of the new cable.
Thread the new and old cables into an old work box large enough
to contain the added wires and clamp the cables. Fit the box into
the old hole and attach it.
Reconnect the old receptacle using pigtails to connect the neutral,

hot, and grounding wires from the new branch cable and the old
cable.
Pull the cable through another old work box for the new
receptacle. Secure the cable and install the box. Connect the new
receptacle to the new branch cable. Insert the receptacle into the
box and attach the receptacle and cover plate with screws. Patch
the opening with drywall. Reattach the baseboard to the studs.
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GFCI Receptacles
images TOOLS & MATERIALS
Noncontact voltage tester
Screwdriver
Wire connectors
Masking tape
A ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protects against electrical shock

caused by a faulty appliance or a worn cord or plug. It senses small changes
in current flow and can shut off power in as little as 1/40 of a second. GFCIs
can be a circuit breaker and protect the circuit from the panel. Often,
however, they are receptacles that protect one receptacle and may protect
other receptacles and light fixtures downstream.
GFCIs are now required in bathrooms, kitchens, within 6 feet of all sinks,
garages, crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms, and outdoor receptacle
locations. Consult your local codes for any requirements regarding the
installation of GFCIs. Most GFCI receptacles use standard screw terminal
connections, but some have wire leads and are attached with wire
connectors. Because the body of a GFCI receptacle is larger than a standard
receptacle, small, crowded electrical boxes may need to be replaced with
more spacious boxes.
Because the GFCI is so sensitive, it is most effective when wired to protect

a single location. The more receptacles any one GFCI protects, the more
susceptible it is to “nuisance tripping,” shutting off power because of tiny,
normal fluctuations in current flow. GFCI receptacles installed in outdoor
locations must be rated for outdoor use and weather resistance (WR) along
with ground fault protection.
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Modern GFCI receptacles have tamper-resistant (TR) slots. Look

for a model that’s rated “WR” (for weather resistance) if you’ll
be installing it outdoors or in a wet location.
Hot wires Receptacle grounding screw Neutral wires

Grounding wires Box grounding screw
A GFCI wired for multiple-location protection (shown from the

back) has one set of hot and neutral pigtail wires connected to the
LINE pair of screw terminals and the other set connected to the
LOAD pair of screw terminals. A GFCI receptacle connected for
multiple-location protection may be wired only as a middle-of-
run configuration.
Hot wires Receptacle grounding screw Neutral wires

Grounding wires Box grounding screw
A GFCI wired for single-location protection (shown from the

back) has hot and neutral pigtail wires connected only to the
screw terminals marked LINE. A GFCI connected for single-
location protection may be wired as either an end-of-run or
middle-of-run configuration.
images How to Install a GFCI for Single-Location Protection
Shut off power to the receptacle at the panel. Test for power with
a noncontact voltage tester. Be sure to check both halves of the
receptacle.
Remove the cover plate. Loosen mounting screws, and gently

pull the receptacle from the box. Do not touch wires. Confirm
power is off with the voltage tester.
Disconnect all wires from the receptacle terminals and remove

the receptacle.
Pigtail all the white neutral wires together, and connect the pigtail
to the terminal marked WHITE LINE on the GFCI (see photo on
opposite page).
Pigtail the black wires together, and connect them to the terminal
marked HOT LINE on the GFCI.
If a grounding wire is available, connect it to the green grounding

screw terminal of the GFCI. Mount the GFCI in the receptacle
box, and reattach the cover plate. Restore power and test the
GFCI according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If a grounding
wire is not available, label the receptacle cover plate: NO
EQUIPMENT GROUND.
images How to Install a GFCI for Multiple-Location Protection
Use a map of your house circuits to determine a location for your

GFCI. Indicate all receptacles that will be protected by the GFCI
installation.
Turn off power to the correct circuit at the panel. Test all the
receptacles in the circuit with a noncontact voltage tester to make
sure the power is off. Always check both halves of each duplex
receptacle.
Remove the cover plate from the receptacle that will be replaced
with the GFCI. Loosen the mounting screws and gently pull the
receptacle from its box. Take care not to touch any bare wires.
Confirm the power is off with a non-contact voltage tester.
Disconnect all black hot wires. Carefully separate the hot wires
and position them so that the bare ends do not touch anything.
Restore power to the circuit at the panel. Determine which black
wire is the feed wire by testing each black wire with the voltage
tester. The feed wire brings power to the receptacle from the
service panel.
USE CAUTION: This is a live wire test, during which the power is turned
on temporarily.
5
When you have found the hot feed wire, turn off power at the
panel. Identify the feed wire by marking it with masking tape.
Disconnect the white neutral wires from the old receptacle.

Identify the white feed wire and label it with masking tape. The
white feed wire will be the one that shares the same cable as the
black feed wire.
Disconnect the grounding wire from the grounding screw

terminal of the old receptacle. Remove the old receptacle.
Connect the white feed wire to the terminal marked WHITE

LINE on the GFCI. Connect the black feed wire to the terminal
marked HOT LINE on the GFCI.
Connect the other white neutral wire to the terminal marked

WHITE LOAD on the GFCI.
10
Connect the other black hot wire to the terminal marked HOT
LOAD on the GFCI. Connect the grounding wire to the
grounding screw terminal of the GFCI.
11
Carefully tuck all wires into the receptacle box. Mount the GFCI
in the box and attach the cover plate. Turn on power to the circuit
at the panel. Test the GFCI according to the manufacturer’s
instructions.
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Testing Receptacles
Multimeter
Plug-in tester
Screwdriver
For testing receptacles and other devices for power, grounding, and
polarity, neon circuit testers are inexpensive and easy to use. But they are
less sensitive than auto-ranging multimeters. In some cases, neon testers
won’t detect the presence of lower voltage in a circuit. This can lead you to
believe that a circuit is shut off when it is not—a dangerous mistake. The
small probes on a neon circuit tester also force you to get too close to live
terminals and wires. For a quick check and confirmation, a neon circuit
tester (or a plug-in tester) is adequate. But for the most reliable readings,
buy and learn to use a multimeter.
The best multimeters are auto-ranging models with a digital readout.

Unlike manual multimeters, auto-ranging models do not require you to
preset the voltage range to get an accurate reading. Unlike neon testers,
multimeters may be used for a host of additional diagnostic functions such
as testing fuses, measuring battery voltage, testing internal wiring in
appliances, and checking light fixtures to determine if they’re functional.
Auto-ranging multimeter Metal probes
images How to Use a Plug-In Tester
images
Use a plug-in tester to test a three-slot receptacle. With the power
on, insert the tester into the suspect outlet. The face of the tester
has three colored lights that will light up in different
combinations, according to the outlet’s problem. A reference
chart is provided with the tester, and there may be a chart on the
tester itself. These testers are useful, but they do not test for all
wiring errors.
images How to Test Quickly for Power
images
Use a noncontact voltage tester to verify that power is not

flowing to a receptacle. Using either a no-touch sensor or a
probe-style circuit tester, test the receptacle for current before you
remove the cover plate. Once the plate is removed, double-check
at the terminals to make sure there is no current.
images How to Test a Receptacle with a Multimeter
Set the selector dial for alternating-current voltage. Plug the black
probe lead into the common jack (labeled COM) on the
multimeter. Plug the red probe lead into the V-labeled jack.
Insert each probe into one of the receptacle slots. It does not
make a difference which probe goes into which slot as long as
they’re in the same receptacle. If power is present and flowing
normally, you will see a voltage reading on the readout screen.
If the multimeter reads 0 or gives a very low reading (less than 1

or 2 volts), power is not present in the receptacle and it is safe to
remove the cover plate and work on the device (although it’s
always a good idea to confirm your reading by touching the
probes directly to the screw terminals on the receptacles).
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OPTION: When a receptacle or switch is in the middle of a

circuit, it is difficult to tell which wires are carrying current. Use
a multimeter to check. With power off, remove the receptacle and
separate the wires. Restore power. Touch one probe to the bare
ground or the grounded metal box and touch the other probe to
the end of each wire. The wire that shows current on the meter is
hot.
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Preliminary Work
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Some very important parts of any electrical project occur well before you
ever make a box cutout or strip a wire. In addition to the most elementary
tasks of figuring out what needs to happen and how it’s done, there are
required procedural steps you’ll need to take as well as some basic
household planning.
To form an overview of what you want to accomplish and how to get it

done, you’ll need to begin by assessing the condition of your wiring system
as it exists. This involves a little investigative work and a little math. You’ll
find plenty of information on both in this chapter.
Once you’ve made an evaluation of what you have to work with, it’s time
to start the planning in earnest. Naturally the amount of planning required
depends largely on the scale of the project. If you are wiring a room
addition or an extensive remodel, the wiring plan should be established and
approved well in advance of the start of the project. In fact, without an
approved wiring plan you will be unable to obtain a valid building permit.
Even for small-scale projects, such as adding a new light circuit or a new
receptacle, you need a permit, and to get the permit you need a plan. You
typically do not need a permit for simple one-for-one replacements of
devices such as switches and receptacles, but it still pays to plan. For
example, if you are replacing a light switch, you should plan ahead and do
the job during the daytime to take advantage of the natural light.
In this chapter:
• Planning Your Project

• Draw a Diagram & Obtain a Permit
• Room-by-Room Wiring
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Planning Your Project

Careful planning of a wiring project ensures you will have plenty of power
for present and future needs. Whether you are adding circuits in a room
addition, wiring a remodeled kitchen, or adding an outdoor circuit, consider
all possible ways the space might be used, and plan for enough electrical
service to meet peak needs.
For example, when wiring a room addition, remember that the way a room
is used can change. In a room used as a spare bedroom, a single 15-amp
circuit provides plenty of power, but if you ever choose to convert the same
room to a family recreation space, you will need additional circuits.
When wiring a remodeled kitchen, it is a good idea to install circuits for an

electric range or cooktop, even if you do not have these electric appliances.
Installing these circuits now makes it easy to convert from gas to electric
appliances at a later date.
A large wiring project adds a considerable load to your main electrical

service. In about 25 percent of all homes, some type of service upgrade is
needed before new wiring can be installed. For example, some homeowners
will need to replace an older 60-amp electrical service with a new service
rated for 100 amps or more. This is a job for a licensed electrician but it is
well worth the investment. In other cases, the existing main service
provides adequate power, but the main circuit breaker panel is too full to
hold any new circuit breakers. In this case it is necessary to install a circuit
breaker subpanel to provide room for hooking up added circuits. Installing
a subpanel is a job most homeowners can do themselves (see here–here).
This chapter gives an easy five-step method for determining your electrical
needs and planning new circuits.
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Five Steps for Planning a Wiring Project

1
Examine your main service panel (see here). The amp rating of
the electrical service and the size of the circuit breaker panel will
help you determine if a service upgrade is needed.
Learn about codes (see here–here). The National Electrical Code

(NEC), and local electrical codes and building codes, provide
guidelines for determining how much power and how many
circuits your home needs. Your local electrical inspector can tell
you which regulations apply to your job.
Prepare for inspections (see here). Remember that your work

must be reviewed by your local electrical inspector. When
planning your wiring project, always follow the inspector’s
guidelines for quality workmanship.
Evaluate electrical loads (see here–here). New circuits put an

added load on your electrical service. Make sure that the total
load of the existing wiring and the planned new circuits does not
exceed the service capacity or the capacity of the panel.
Draw a wiring diagram and get a permit (see here). This wiring
plan will help you organize your work.
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Examine Your Main Service Panel

The first step in planning a new wiring project is to look in your main
circuit breaker panel and find the size of the service by reading the
amperage rating on the main circuit breaker. As you plan new circuits and
evaluate electrical loads, knowing the size of the main service helps you
determine if you need a service upgrade.
Also look for open circuit breaker slots in the panel. The number of open
slots will determine if you need to add a circuit breaker subpanel.
Main circuit breaker
Find the service size by opening the main service panel and
reading the amp rating printed on the main circuit breaker. This
method works when there is one main circuit breaker or fuse
block. Some houses have multiple services disconnects. In these
cases, contact an electrician to determine your service size. In
most cases, 100-amp service provides enough power to handle
the added loads of projects such as the ones shown in this book.
A service rated for 60 amps or less should be upgraded.
NOTE: In some homes the main circuit breaker is located in a separate

box.
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Older service panels use fuses instead of circuit breakers. Have

an electrician replace this type of panel with a circuit breaker
panel that provides enough power and enough open breaker slots
for the new circuits you are planning.
Expandable Not expandable
Look for open circuit breaker slots in the main circuit breaker
panel or in a circuit breaker subpanel, if your home already has
one. You will need one open slot for each 120-volt circuit you
plan to install and two slots for each 240-volt circuit. If your
main circuit breaker panel has no open breaker slots, install a
subpanel (see here–here) to provide room for connecting new
circuits.
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Learn About Codes
To ensure public safety, your community requires that you get a permit to
install new wiring and have the work reviewed by an inspector. Electrical
inspectors use the National Electrical Code (NEC) as the primary authority
for evaluating wiring, but they also follow the local building code and
electrical code standards.
Most communities use a version of the NEC that is not the most current
version. Also, many communities make amendments to the NEC, and these
amendments may affect your work.
As you begin planning new circuits, call or visit your local electrical
inspector and discuss the project with him or her. The inspector can tell you
which of the code requirements apply to your job and may give you a
packet of information summarizing these regulations. Later, when you
apply to the inspector for a work permit, he or she will expect you to
understand the local guidelines as well as a few basic NEC requirements.
The NEC is a set of standards that provides minimum safety requirements

for wiring installations. It is revised every three years. The national code
requirements for the projects shown in this book are explained on the
following pages. For more information, you can find copies of the current
NEC, as well as a number of excellent handbooks based on the NEC, at
libraries, bookstores, and online. Many city building departments and state
authorities publish local code rules and updates online.
In addition to being the final authority of code requirements, inspectors are

electrical professionals with years of experience. Although they have busy
schedules, most inspectors are happy to answer questions and help you
design well-planned circuits.
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Basic Electrical Code Requirements
Switch-controlled light fixture Dedicated appliance circuit

More than 24" 12 ft. maximum
Electrical code requirements for living areas: Living areas need at

least one 15-amp or 20-amp basic lighting/receptacle circuit for
each 600 sq. ft. of living space and should have a dedicated
circuit for each type of permanent appliance, such as an air
conditioner or a group of baseboard heaters. Receptacles on basic
lighting/receptacle circuits should be spaced no more than 12 ft.
apart. Many electricians and electrical inspectors recommend
even closer spacing. Any wall more than 24" wide also needs a
receptacle. Every room should have a wall switch at the point of
entry to control either a ceiling or wall-mounted light or plug-in
lamp. Kitchens and bathrooms must have a ceiling or wall-
mounted light fixture.
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Selected NEC Standards & Tips
Three-way switches
Measure the living areas of your home, excluding unconditioned

spaces. You will need a minimum of one basic lighting/
receptacle circuit for every 600 sq. ft. of living space. The total
square footage also helps you estimate heating and cooling needs
for new room additions.
Stairways must have one or more light fixtures that are capable of
lighting all stair treads and landings, including the top and bottom
landings. The light fixture must be controlled by three-way
switches at the top and bottom landings.
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Kitchen countertop and all bathroom receptacles must be
protected by a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI). Also, all
outdoor receptacles and receptacles in basements, crawl spaces,
and garages must be protected by a GFCI.
⅝" hole 1¼" Nail guard Furring strip Cutaway view
Cables must be protected against damage by nails and screws by

at least 1¼" of wood (top). When cables pass through 2" × 2"
furring strips (bottom), protect the cables with metal nail guards.
Nail guards also may be used to protect cable that cannot meet
the 1¼" minimum of wood protection standard.
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Walk-in closets and other storage spaces should have at least one
light fixture that is controlled by a wall switch near the entrance.
Prevent fire hazards by positioning the light fixtures so the outer
globes are at least 12" away from all shelf areas.
NOTE: This suggestion is primarily for homeowner convenience and is not

required by most codes.
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Hallways at least 10 ft. long need at least one receptacle. All

hallways should have a switch-controlled light fixture.
Metal brace Cutaway view
A metal brace attached to framing members is required for

ceiling fans and large light fixtures that are too heavy to be
supported by an electrical box. All ceiling fans must be installed
in a box that is fan-rated.
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Label new circuits on an index attached to the circuit breaker

panel door. List the rooms and appliances controlled by each
circuit. Make sure the area around the panel is clean, well lighted,
and accessible.
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Light fixtures (luminaires) must be approved for their location.

For example, in shower and tub areas, light fixtures must be rated
for damp locations or, if they are subject to shower spray, for wet
locations.
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Electrical service to the home must have disconnecting means

located in an accessible outdoor location, and it must be labeled
appropriately. This allows emergency responders to shut off the
power before they enter the home.
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Metal electrical boxes must be grounded with a machine screw or

an approved grounding clip. Machine screws must be engaged
with at least two threads into the box. Grounding screws are sold
for this purpose. Drywall and sheet metal screws are not
acceptable for grounding.
images
GFCI receptacles can be installed on circuits that do not have a

ground wire. In this case, the receptacle face must be labeled “No
Equipment Ground.” The receptacle will provide GFCI
protection but will not have a true ground connection. Most GFCI
receptacles come with these sticker labels in the package.
images
Service lugs
Service lugs in the main service panel must be protected by

approved barriers, sometimes called service barriers. This applies
to any uninsulated, ungrounded conductor terminal or busbar in
the service disconnect. Barriers are inexpensive, removable
plastic covers.
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Transformers for low-voltage lighting systems must remain

accessible. A transformer can be installed outdoors, indoors, or in
a garage or outbuilding, depending on its rating. Consult the
manufacturer’s instructions for additional installation
requirements.
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Laundry rooms must have at least one 120-volt, 20-amp, GFCI-

protected receptacle on a dedicated circuit, and it must be within
6 feet of any appliance it serves (such as a washing machine or a
gas dryer). Electric dryers require a 30-amp (minimum), 120/240-
volt, GFCI-protected receptacle on a dedicated four-conductor
circuit (contains two hot wires, a neutral, and a ground). Existing
three-conductor receptacle circuits are allowed to remain in use,
if permitted by local code.
images HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NATIONAL ELECTRICAL CODE
Panels
• Maintain a minimum 30" wide by 36" deep of clearance in front of

the panel.
• Install a surge protective device when installing new electrical
service and when changing or upgrading electrical service.
• Install an emergency disconnect device outside of the house when
installing new electrical service and when changing or upgrading
electrical service.
• Match the amperage rating of the circuit when replacing breakers or
fuses.
• Use handle ties on all 240-volt breakers and on 120-volt breakers
protecting multiwire branch circuits.
• Close all unused panel openings.
• Label each fuse and breaker clearly on the panel.
Electrical Boxes
• Use boxes that are large enough to accommodate the number of

wires and devices in the box.
• Install all junction boxes so they remain accessible.
• Leave no gaps greater than ⅛" between wall finish materials and the
front of electrical boxes.
• Place receptacle boxes flush with combustible surfaces.
• Leave a minimum of 3" of usable cable or wire extending past the
front of the electrical box.
• Ground metal electrical boxes with a grounding pigtail.
Wires & Cables
• Use wires that are large enough for the amperage rating of the circuit
(see Wire Size Chart, here).
• Drill holes at least 2" from the edges of joists. Do not attach cables to
the bottom edge of joists.
• Do not run cables diagonally between framing members.
• Use nail plates to protect cable that is run through holes drilled or cut
into studs less than 1¼" from the front edge of a stud.
• Do not crimp cables sharply.
• Contain spliced wires or connections entirely in a covered plastic or
metal electrical box.
• Use approved wire connectors to join wires.
• Use staples to fasten cables within 8" of an electrical box and every
54" along its run.
• Leave a minimum ¼" (maximum 1") of sheathing where cables enter
an electrical box.
• Clamp cables and wires to electrical boxes with approved clamps.
No clamp is necessary for one-gang plastic boxes if cables are stapled
within 8" of the box.
• Connect only a single wire to a single screw terminal. Use pigtails to
join more than one wire to a screw terminal.
Switches
• Use a switch-controlled receptacle in rooms without a built-in light

fixture operated by a wall switch.
• Use switches with grounding screws with plastic electrical boxes.
• Locate all wall switches within easy reach of the room entrance and
not behind the door.
• Install a separate receptacle for an electric dryer, as applicable. This
must be 30-amp (minimum), 240-volt, GFCI protected, and on a
dedicated four-conductor circuit.
• Install a neutral wire in switch boxes.
• Use black or red wires to supply power to switched devices.
Receptacles
• Install receptacles on all walls at least 24" long.

• Install receptacles so a 6-foot cord can be plugged in from any point
along a wall, or every 12 ft. along a wall.
• Include receptacles in any hallway that is 10 feet long or longer.
• Use three-slot, grounded receptacles for all 15- or 20-amp, 120-volt
branch circuits.
• Install GFCI-protected receptacles in bathrooms, kitchens, garages,
crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms, and outdoors.
• Include GFCI protection for dishwashers and sump pumps.
• Install one 20-amp, 120-volt, GFCI-protected receptacle for each
parking space in a garage.
• Install at least one 120-volt receptacle in each unfinished basement
area.
• Install a 120-volt receptacle within 25 feet from HVAC equipment
such as furnaces, boilers, and condensers.
Light Fixtures
• Use mounting straps that are anchored to the electrical boxes to

mount ceiling fixtures.
• Keep non–IC-rated recessed light fixtures 3" from insulation and ½"
from combustibles.
• Include at least one switch-operated lighting outlet in every habitable
room, kitchen, bathroom, basement, hallway, stairway, attached
garage, and attic and crawlspace area that is used for storage or that
contains equipment that requires service. This outlet may be a
switched receptacle in areas other than kitchens and bathrooms.
• Do not install dimmer switches on interior stair lights unless a
dimmer is installed on all switches controlling these lights.
AFCI and GFCI Protection
• Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to install new

receptacles, lights, switches, or equipment requires a permit. The
electrical inspector may require that you install arc-fault protection on
the entire circuit and may require that you install GFCI protection
where currently required. Check with the electrical inspector before
starting such projects.
Kitchens/Dining Rooms
• Install at least two 20-amp small-appliance receptacle circuits.

• Install dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt circuits for dishwashers and food
disposals (required by many local codes). The dishwasher circuit
should be GFCI protected.
• Install GFCI protection for all countertop receptacles; and for
receptacles within 6 feet from the sink. The 6 feet from the sink rule
includes all receptacles, such as a refrigerator receptacle, range
receptacle, unused receptacles under the sink, and receptacles along
walls.
• Position receptacles for appliances that will be installed within
cabinets, such as microwaves or food disposals, according to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
• Include receptacles at all countertops and work surfaces wider than
12".
• Space receptacles a maximum of 48" apart above countertops and
closer together in areas where many appliances will be used.
• Locate receptacles on the wall above the countertop not more than
20" above the countertop.
• Do not connect lights to the small-appliance receptacle circuits.
Bathrooms
• Install a 20-amp circuit only for bathroom receptacles, or install a

20-amp circuit that serves receptacles and lighting in only one
bathroom and no other rooms.
• Provide GFCI protection for all bathroom receptacles.
• Install a dedicated circuit for an exhaust fan with heater or other type
of heating appliance, if required.
• Install at least one receptacle not more than 36" from each sink.
• Ensure light fixtures in tub/shower areas are rated for damp or wet
locations, as required.
Laundry Room
• Install at least one 20-amp, GFCI-protected receptacle on its own

circuit, located within 6 feet of a washing machine.
• Install approved conduit for wiring in unfinished rooms.
• Install a separate receptacle for an electric dryer, as applicable. This
must be 30-amp (minimum), 240-volt, GFCI protected, and on a
dedicated four-conductor circuit.
Living, Entertainment, Bedrooms
• Install at least one 15- or 20-amp lighting/receptacle circuit for each

600 sq. ft. of living space.
• Install a dedicated circuit for each permanent appliance, such as an
air conditioner or group of electric baseboard heaters.
• Use electrical boxes listed and labeled to support ceiling fans in
locations where ceiling fans are commonly installed.
• Space receptacles on walls in living and sleeping rooms a maximum
of 12 feet apart.
• Check with your local electrical inspector about requirements for
installing smoke and carbon monoxide alarms during remodeling.
Outdoors
• Check for underground utilities before digging.

• Use UF cable or other wiring approved for wet locations for outdoor
wiring.
• Run cable and wires in approved conduit, as required by local code.
• Install in-use rated weatherproof receptacle covers.
• Bury cables and wires run in conduit at least 18" deep; cable not in
conduit must be buried at least 24" deep.
• Use weatherproof electrical boxes with watertight covers.
• Provide GFCI protection for all outdoor receptacles.
Stairs/Hallways
• Use three-way switches at the top and bottom on stairways with six
risers or more.
• Include receptacles in any hallway that is 10 feet long or longer.
• Position stairway lights so each step and landing is illuminated.
images
Prepare for Inspections
Electrical inspectors who issue the work permit for your wiring project will
also visit your home to review the work. Make sure to allow time for these
inspections as you plan the project. For most projects, inspectors make two
visits.
The first inspection, called the rough-in, is done after the cables are run
between the boxes but before the insulation, drywall, switches, and fixtures
are installed. The second inspection, called the final, is done after the walls
and ceilings are finished and all electrical connections are made.
When preparing for the rough-in inspection, make sure the area is neat.
Sweep up sawdust and clean up any pieces of scrap wire or cable
insulation. Before inspecting the boxes and cables, inspectors will check to
make sure all plumbing and other mechanical work is completed. Some
electrical inspectors will ask to see your building and plumbing permits.
At the final inspection, inspectors check random boxes to make sure the
wire connections are correct. If they see good workmanship at the selected
boxes, the inspection will be over quickly. However, if they spot a problem,
inspectors may choose to inspect every connection.
Inspectors have busy schedules, so it is a good idea to arrange for an

inspection several days in advance. In addition to basic compliance with
code, inspectors expect your work to meet their own standards for quality.
When you apply for a work permit, make sure you understand what the
inspectors will look for during inspections.
You cannot put new circuits into use legally until an inspector approves
them at the final inspection. If you have planned carefully and done your
work well, electrical inspections are routine visits that give you confidence
in your own skills.
Cable staple 8" maximum Cable staple 4½ ft. 48" Cable staple
Smooth curve About 20" 12"
Inspectors may measure to see that electrical boxes are mounted

at consistent heights. Height may not be dictated by code, but
consistency is a sign of good workmanship. Measured from the
center of the boxes, receptacles in living areas typically are
located 12" above the finished floor and switches at 48". For
special circumstances, inspectors allow you to alter these
measurements. For example, you can install switches at 36"
above the floor in a child’s bedroom, or set receptacles at 24" to
make them more convenient for someone using a wheelchair.
Inspectors will check cables to see that they are anchored by

cable staples driven within 8" of each box and every 4½ ft.
thereafter when they run along studs. When bending cables, form
the wire in a smooth curve. Do not crimp cables sharply or install
them diagonally between framing members. Some inspectors
specify that cables running between receptacle boxes should be
about 20" above the floor.
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What Inspectors Look For
¼" sheathing, minimum 6" to end of wire Finished wall surface

½" wallboard
Electrical box faces should extend past the front of framing

members so the boxes will be flush with finished walls (left).
Inspectors will check to see that all boxes are large enough for
the wires they contain. Cables should be cut and stripped back so
that at least 3" of usable length extends past the front of the box
and so that at least ¼" of sheathing reaches into the box (right).
Label all cables to show which circuits they serve: inspectors
recognize this as a mark of careful work. The labels also simplify
the final hookups after the drywall is installed.
images IS YOUR RECEPTACLE SPACING CORRECT?
6 ft. 6 ft. 3 ft. sliding door 3 ft. fixed door 1 ft. 6 ft. 1 ft. 2 ft.
6ft. 5 ft. 6 ft. 6 ft. 1ft. 6 ft.
Example of receptacle spacing requirements in a typical room

(above). Measure receptacle spacing distance along the wall line.
Install receptacles along partial height walls and along balcony
guards in lofts and similar areas.
1 ft. 3 ft. refrigerator 4 ft. 1 ft. 3 ft. 2 ft. 4 ft. 2 ft. 2 ft. 2.5 ft. 1
ft. 4 ft.
Example of receptacle spacing in a typical kitchen.
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images
All wiring splices must be made with approved connectors.

Common types include push-in connectors (left), standard wire
connectors or “wire nuts” (center), and grounding-type wire
connectors for ground wires (right).
images
Cable sheathing damage indicates the wiring inside (or its

insulation) may be compromised. Damaged portions of cables
and other wiring must be replaced to ensure safety.
images
Open, unused knockouts on boxes should be covered with

knockout plugs to ensure that the box is fully enclosed.
images
New switch installations should include a neutral conductor in

the switch box. Most standard switches do not connect to neutral
wires, but some “smart switches” with wireless control connect to
a neutral because the switches need a small amount of current to
receive wireless signals.
images
images
Circuits must be properly rated for the area(s) or appliance(s)

they serve as well as for safe capacity. For example, a circuit for
bathroom receptacles that is rated for less than 20 amps is an easy
red flag during an inspection.
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Closet light fixtures must be fully enclosed (over the bulb) and at
least 12 inches from storage areas when the fixtures are surface-
mounted. Recessed fixtures must be at least 6 inches from storage
areas. Surface-mounted fixtures must be on the ceiling or on the
wall above the door.
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Smoke alarms are required in all bedrooms (sleeping rooms) and

in areas adjoining sleeping rooms. In addition, each floor of the
home must have at least one alarm, including basements and
habitable attic areas. Smoke alarms must be interconnected so
activation of one alarm triggers all others. Check with the local
code authority for specific installation details.
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Carbon monoxide (CO) alarms are required in homes with fuel-

fired systems (such as a gas furnace, water heater, or stove) and
in homes with attached garages. Alarms are required outside of
each sleeping area and inside any bedroom containing a fuel-fired
appliance (such as a gas fireplace).
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Evaluate Electrical Loads
Before drawing a plan and applying for a work permit, make sure your
home’s electrical service provides enough power to handle the added load
of the new circuits. In a safe wiring system, the current drawn by fixtures
and appliances never exceeds the main service capacity.
To evaluate electrical loads, use the work sheet on this page or whatever
evaluation method is recommended by your electrical inspector. Include the
load for all existing wiring as well as that for proposed new wiring when
making your evaluation.
Most of the light fixtures and plug-in appliances in your home are
evaluated as part of general allowances for basic lighting/receptacle circuits
and small-appliance circuits. However, appliances that are permanently
installed usually require their own dedicated circuits. The electrical loads
for these appliances are added in separately when evaluating wiring.
If your evaluation shows that the load exceeds the main service capacity,
you must have an electrician upgrade the main service before you can
install new wiring. An electrical service upgrade is a worthwhile
investment that improves the value of your home and provides plenty of
power for present and future wiring projects.
images
images AMPERAGE
AMPS × VOLTS TOTAL CAPACITY SAFE CAPACITY

15 A × 120 V = 1,800 watts 1,440 watts
20 A × 120 V = 2,400 watts 1,920 watts
25 A × 120 V = 3,000 watts 2,400 watts
30 A × 120 V = 3,600 watts 2,880 watts
20 A × 240 V = 4,800 watts 3,840 watts
30 A × 240 V = 7,200 watts 5,760 watts
Amperage rating can be used to find the wattage of an appliance. Multiply

the amperage by the voltage of the circuit. For example, a 13-amp, 120-volt
circular saw is rated for 1,560 watts.
images
Calculating Loads
images
Add 1,500 watts for each small-appliance circuit required by the

local electrical code. In most communities, three such circuits are
required—two in the kitchen and one for the laundry—for a total
of 4,500 watts. No further calculations are needed for appliances
that plug into small-appliance or basic lighting/receptacle
circuits.
Nameplate
If the nameplate gives the rating in kilowatts, find the watts by

multiplying kilowatts times 1,000. If an appliance lists only
amps, find watts by multiplying the amps times the voltage—
either 120 or 240 volts.
images FIXED DEVICES
Do not connect one or more fixed devices that in total exceed 50 percent of
a multiple outlet branch circuit’s amperage rating. Fixed devices do not
include light fixtures. This means that that all fixed devices (such as a
permanently wired disposal or hot water circulating pump) on a multiple
outlet branch circuit may not exceed 7.5 amps (about 900 watts) on a 15-
amp multiple outlet branch circuit and may not exceed 10 amps (about
1,200 watts) on a 20-amp multiple outlet branch circuit.
images
Air-conditioning and heating appliances are not used at the same

time, so figure in only the larger of these two numbers when
evaluating your home’s electrical load.
images
Locating Wattage
Wattage rating
Lightbulb wattage ratings are printed on the base or top of the

bulb. If a light fixture has more than one bulb, remember to add
the wattages of all the bulbs to find the total wattage of the
fixture.
Nameplate
Electric water heaters are permanent appliances that require their

own dedicated 30-amp, 240-volt circuits. Most water heaters are
rated between 3,500 and 4,500 watts. If the nameplate lists
several wattage ratings, use the one labeled “Total Connected
Wattage” when figuring electrical loads.
Nameplate
Food disposers are considered permanent appliances and may

require their own dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt circuits. Most
disposers are rated between 500 and 900 watts.
Nameplate
Dishwashers installed permanently under a countertop may need

dedicated 15-amp, 120-volt circuits. Dishwasher ratings are
usually between 1,000 and 1,500 watts. Portable dishwashers are
regarded as part of small-appliance circuits and are not added in
when figuring loads.
Nameplate
Electric ranges can be rated for as little as 3,000 watts or as much

as 12,000 watts. They usually require dedicated 120/240-volt
circuits. Find the exact wattage rating by reading the nameplate
found inside the oven door or on the back of the unit.
Nameplate
Installed microwave ovens are regarded as permanent appliances.

Add in its wattage rating when calculating loads. The nameplate
is found on the back of the cabinet or inside the front door. Most
microwave ovens are rated between 500 and 1,200 watts. A
permanently installed microwave should be on a dedicated 20-
amp, 120-volt circuit.
Nameplate
Freezers are appliances that may need a dedicated 15- or 20-amp,

120-volt circuits. Freezer ratings are usually between 240 and
480 watts. But combination refrigerator-freezers are plugged into
small-appliance circuits and do not need their own dedicated
circuits. The nameplate for a freezer is found inside the door or
on the back of the unit, just below the door seal.
Nameplate
Electric clothes dryers are permanent appliances that need

dedicated 30-amp, 120/240-volt circuits. The wattage rating is
printed on the nameplate inside the dryer door. Use 5,000 watts
as a minimum, regardless of the printed rating. Washing
machines and gas-heat clothes dryers with electric tumbler
motors do not need dedicated circuits. They plug into the 20-amp
small-appliance circuit in the laundry room.
Nameplate
Forced-air furnaces and heat pump air handlers have electric fans
and are considered permanent appliances. They require dedicated
15-amp, 120-volt circuits. Include the fan wattage rating, printed
on a nameplate inside the control panel, when figuring wattage
loads for heating. You should also include the wattage rating for
heat pump backup heating coils.
Nameplate
A central air conditioner requires a dedicated 240-volt circuit.

Estimate its wattage rating by adding the numbers labeled RLA
and FLA on the air conditioner’s metal plate. Multiply the
RLA+FLA by 240.
Nameplate
Window air conditioners may be considered permanent
appliances if they are connected to a dedicated circuit. Through-
wall air conditioners are considered permanent appliances. The
wattage rating, which can range from 500 to 2,000 watts, is found
on the nameplate located inside the front grill. Include
permanently installed through-wall air conditioners and window
air conditioners that are connected to a dedicated circuit in your
evaluation.
Nameplate
Electric baseboard heaters that are permanently installed require a

dedicated circuit and must be figured into the load calculations.
Use the maximum wattage rating printed inside the cover. In
general, 240-volt baseboard-type heaters are rated for 180 to 250
watts for each linear foot.
images How to Estimate Electrical Loads—with sample numbers
STEP 1.
General lighting and receptacle circuits. Multiply
conditioned living area square footage by 3 watts per
DESCRIPTION square foot. Include new and existing areas. Do not
include garage and porches. Include parts of the
basement that can be finished.
QTY 1,500
UNITS sq. ft.
QTY 3
UNITS watts/sq. ft.
LOAD (watts) 4,500
STEP 2.
DESCRIPTION Kitchen and laundry circuits. At least 3 circuits are
required; 2 small appliance circuits for the kitchen,
dining, and breakfast areas, and 1 laundry circuit.
Multiply the number of circuits by 1,500 watts per
circuit. The refrigerator is included in the small
appliance circuits, not in the fixed appliance circuits.
You may add an additional circuit for the refrigerator, if
you wish.
QTY 3
UNITS circuits
QTY 1,500
UNITS watts/circuit
LOAD (watts) 4,500
STEP 3.
Fixed appliance circuits. Add the wattage ratings on the
DESCRIPTION appliance labels. These appliances are often on a
dedicated circuit. Examples are listed below.
DESCRIPTION Range
QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 12,300
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 12,300
DESCRIPTION Surface cooking unit

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Microwave oven

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Wall oven

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Disposer
QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 800
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 800
DESCRIPTION Built‐in dishwasher

QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 1,200
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 1,200
DESCRIPTION Electric clothes dryer

QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 5,000
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 5,000
DESCRIPTION Freezer
QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 550
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 550
DESCRIPTION Heat pump air handler

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Furnace
QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Electric water heater

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Others (e.g., sump pump, well pump, pool pump)

QTY 0
UNITS appliance
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Total fixed appliances

QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 19,850
STEP 4.
DESCRIPTION Add loads from steps 1, 2, and 3.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 28,850
STEP 5.
DESCRIPTION Subtract 10,000 watts from Step 4.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) (10,000)
STEP 6.
DESCRIPTION Adjusted load
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 18,850
STEP 7.
Calculated load. Multiply the adjusted load (Step 6) by
DESCRIPTION .40. This adjusts for all appliances not operating at the
same time.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 7,540
STEP 8.
Cooling loads. Include all heat pump or air conditioning
condensers. Include all window air conditioners and
DESCRIPTION through‐wall air conditioners on dedicated circuits. Do
not include window air conditioners connected to
general lighting and receptacle circuits.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts)
DESCRIPTION Condenser 1
QTY 1
UNITS condenser
QTY 3,500
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 3,500
DESCRIPTION Condenser 2
QTY 0
UNITS condenser
QTY 0
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Window and through‐wall air conditioners

QTY 1
UNITS ac
QTY 1,100
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 1,100
DESCRIPTION Total cooling loads

QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 4,600
STEP 9.
Heating loads. Examples are listed below. This is a
DESCRIPTION simplified procedure that will overestimate the heating
loads.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts)
DESCRIPTION Heat pump condenser 1

QTY 0
UNITS condenser
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Heat pump condenser 2

QTY 0
UNITS condenser
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Heat pump strip 1

QTY 0
UNITS heat strips
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Heat pump strip 2

QTY 0
UNITS heat strips
QTY
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 0
DESCRIPTION Electric furnace/boiler

QTY 1
UNITS appliance
QTY 1,200
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 1,200
DESCRIPTION Electric baseboard heaters
QTY 4
UNITS heaters
QTY 1,350
UNITS watts
LOAD (watts) 5,400
DESCRIPTION Total heating loads

QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 6,600
STEP 10.
DESCRIPTION Enter the larger number from Steps 8 and 9.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 6,600
STEP 11.
DESCRIPTION Add 10,000 watts to the calculated load from Step 7.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 17,540
STEP 12.
DESCRIPTION Add Steps 10 and 11.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 24,140
STEP 13.
Divide Step 12 by 240. This is your estimated service
DESCRIPTION
current load in amps.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 101
STEP 14.
DESCRIPTION Enter your current service amperage.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts) 150
STEP 15.
Compare the numbers in Steps 13 and 14. If Step 13 is
larger, you may need to upgrade your electric service. If
DESCRIPTION
Step 14 is larger, you are probably okay with your
existing service.
QTY
UNITS
QTY
UNITS
LOAD (watts)
NOTICE: This is a service load calculation for the entire house. This is a
simplified procedure that will usually overestimate the current load.
Calculation of the feeder load for a subpanel is different. Contact your
local electrical inspector or a licensed electrician for guidance about more
precise load calculations.
images
Draw a Diagram & Obtain a Permit
Drawing a wiring diagram is the last step in planning a circuit installation.

A detailed wiring diagram helps you get a permit, makes it easy to create a
list of materials, and serves as a guide for laying out circuits and installing
cables and fixtures. Use the circuit maps on here–here as a guide for
planning wiring configurations and cable runs. Bring the diagram and
materials list when you visit electrical inspectors to apply for a permit.
Never install new wiring without following your community’s permit and
inspection procedure. A permit is not expensive, and it ensures that your
work will be reviewed by a qualified inspector. If you install new wiring
without the proper permit, an accident or fire traced to faulty wiring could
cause your insurance company to discontinue your policy and can hurt the
resale value of your home.
When electrical inspectors look over your wiring diagram, they will ask
questions to see if you have a basic understanding of the electrical code and
fundamental wiring skills. Some inspectors ask these questions informally,
while others give a short written test. Inspectors may allow you to do some,
but not all, of the work. For example, they may ask that all final circuit
connections at the circuit breaker panel be made by a licensed electrician,
while allowing you to do all other work.
A few communities allow you to install wiring only when supervised by an

electrician. This means you can still install your own wiring but must hire
an electrician to apply for the work permit and to check your work before
inspectors review it. The electrician is held responsible for the quality of
the job.
Remember that it is the inspectors’ responsibility to help you do a safe and

professional job. Feel free to call them with questions about wiring
techniques or materials.
images
A detailed wiring diagram and a list of materials is required

before electrical inspectors will issue a work permit. If blueprints
exist for the space you are remodeling, start your electrical
diagram by tracing the wall outlines from the blueprint. Use
standard electrical symbols (next page) to clearly show all the
receptacles, switches, light fixtures, and permanent appliances.
Make a copy of the symbol key and attach it to the wiring
diagram for the inspector’s convenience. Show each cable run,
and label its wire size and circuit amperage.
images How to Draw a Wiring Plan
images
Draw a scaled diagram of the space you will be wiring, showing

walls, doors, windows, plumbing pipes and fixtures, and heating
and cooling ducts. Find the floor space by multiplying room
length by width, and indicate this on the diagram.
images
Mark the location of all switches, receptacles, light fixtures, and

permanent appliances, using the electrical symbols shown below.
Where you locate these devices along the cable run determines
how they are wired. Use the circuit maps on here–here as a guide
for drawing wiring diagrams.
images
Draw in cable runs between devices. Indicate cable size and type
and the amperage of the circuits. Use a different-colored pencil
for each circuit.
images
Identify the wattages for permanent appliances and the type and
size of each electrical box. On another sheet of paper, make a
detailed list of all materials you will use.
images ELECTRICAL SYMBOL KEY (COPY THIS KEY AND

ATTACH IT TO YOUR WIRING PLAN)
images 240-volt receptacle

images Isolated ground receptacle
images Duplex receptacle
images 240-volt dryer receptacle
images Singleplex receptacle
images Fourplex receptacle
images GFCI duplex receptacle
images Switched receptacle
images Weatherproof receptacle
images Thermostat
images Pilot-light switch
images Single-pole switch
images Timer switch
images Three-way switch
images Junction box
images Ceiling pull switch
images Surface-mounted light fixture
images Recessed light fixture
images Fluorescent light fixture
images Wall-mounted light fixture
images Weatherproof light fixture
images Ceiling fan
images Electric door opener
images Low-voltage transformer
images Television jack
images Telephone outlet
images Smoke dectector
images Vent fan
images
Room-by-Room Wiring
Most major home projects involve expansion or upgrading of existing
wiring. For example, if you are remodeling a room of your house, and the
plan calls for structural or significant cosmetic changes, it’s probably also
an ideal time to bring the wiring up to current standards. And when you
pull a permit for the project, an electrical update will likely be required.
Updating the wiring for a remodeled space often includes adding new
devices and fixtures (or replacing old ones) and, in many cases, adding new
circuits. Requirements vary considerably from room to room. A remodeled
bedroom may need only a few added receptacles, some new light fixtures,
and a ceiling fan, while a major kitchen renovation will likely require
several new circuits if not a complete overhaul of the room’s wiring.
One of the nice things about electrical systems is that their circuit layout
makes them relatively compartmentalized. This means you can easily
update one room without making major changes elsewhere, provided your
service panel has enough capacity for any added circuits. And it makes
good sense to bring the entire room up to current standards, whether it’s
required or not. Updating a room’s wiring and devices not only adds
convenience, it also enhances safety. If you remodel your laundry room, for
instance, you now must provide GFCI protection for all of the receptacles
—an important safety improvement for this often-wet area. And most areas
of the house now must have AFCI protection.
images
Electrical code requirements cover all aspects of bathroom

wiring, including receptacles, lighting, exhaust fans, and heaters.
Most bathrooms need only one or two circuits, but those with
jetted tubs or special heating systems will need more. Current
requirements ensure that bathrooms have plenty of power for hair
dryers, curling irons, and any other plug-in devices.
images
Kitchens
images
An updated kitchen with the usual suite of electric appliances will often
have at least six individual circuits, but many kitchens have eight or more,
depending on their size and the number of large appliances they have.
The most important things to watch out for in a kitchen wiring plan are
GFCI protection and receptacle placement. All receptacles serving
countertop areas must be GFCI protected. In addition, any receptacle within
6 feet of a sink (measured from the sink’s top inside edge) must have GFCI
protection. This includes 240-volt receptacles for electric ranges and other
large plug-in appliances. Circuits serving dishwashers also must be GFCI-
protected, and all 15- and 20-amp circuits in the kitchen also must be
AFCI-protected.
Placement of countertop receptacles follows the so-called “2-foot, 4-foot”

rule: In short, this means that receptacles serving countertop areas are
spaced no more than 4 feet apart, and that no countertop area (measured
along the wall) is more than 2 feet from a receptacle. Islands and peninsulas
also need receptacles: one for the first 9 square feet—or fraction thereof—
of countertop area, plus one for every additional 18 square feet or fraction
thereof. There are some exceptions and specific dimension requirements for
applying the 2-foot, 4-foot rule, so check with the local code authority for
details.
RANGE DISHWASHER SINK VENT HOOD MICROWAVE
KITCHEN/DINING ENTRY REFRIGERATOR DINING AREA
CIRCUITS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Typical kitchen circuits include
images Circuits #1 & #2: Small-Appliance Circuits

The NEC requires at least two 120-volt, 20-amp circuits feeding
receptacles in countertop areas and all wall (and floor) receptacles in the
kitchen and adjacent pantry and dining areas. These are commonly called
the “small-appliance” circuits because most of the receptacles feed plug-in
countertop appliances. Lighting and fixed appliances may not connect to
these circuits. However, receptacles for a plug-in clock or ignition on a gas
stove may use these circuits. If the dining and/or pantry areas are large and
contain a lot of wall receptacles, it’s a good idea to include a separate 20-
amp circuit for those receptacles.
images Circuit #3: Lighting

One or more 120-volt,15-amp circuit for all kitchen lighting, including
overhead (ambient) lighting, task lighting (such as undercabinet lights), and
accent lighting (pendant fixtures, lighting in or above cabinets, etc.). By
code, the room must have at least one light fixture controlled by a wall
switch. For large kitchens, it’s a good idea to control general lighting in
multiple locations with three-way and four-way switches.
Note: Kitchen lighting can be on a general lighting circuit serving other
rooms.
images Circuit #4: Refrigerator

Refrigerators are permitted by the NEC to plug into a receptacle on one of
the small-appliance circuits (Circuits #1 & #2), but if you’re remodeling the
kitchen, it makes sense to include a dedicated 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp
circuit for the refrigerator (this is required in some areas). If the fridge
receptacle is within 6 feet of the sink, it must be GFCI protected.
images Circuit # 5: Microwave

A portable plug-in microwave can be served by a countertop receptacle
(there may be local restrictions on wattage), but as with the fridge, it’s a
good practice to include a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the microwave.
Full-size microwaves draw 1,000 watts or more, which can strain a circuit’s
capacity when other high-wattage appliances, such as toaster ovens or hot-
water kettles, are running at the same time.
images Circuits #6 & #7: Dishwasher & Garbage Disposer

The NEC permits supplying a dishwasher and garbage disposer on a single
circuit, but the combined wattage rating of both appliances must not exceed
the safe capacity of the circuit. However, many local codes require separate
circuits for these fixed appliances.
A dishwasher typically is fed by a 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp circuit, and it

must be GFCI protected. A disposer circuit may be 15-amp or 20-amp, but
20-amp is generally recommended, especially when the circuit also feeds
the dishwasher. Disposers are fed by a receptacle installed in the sink base
cabinet, or they can be hardwired with liquid-tight flexible conduit. They
are typically controlled by a switch installed on the wall near the sink. If a
disposer receptacle is located inside a cabinet with a door, it does not need
GFCI protection unless it is a duplex receptacle that is split wired so that
one half of the receptacle is switch controlled and one half serves the
dishwasher; in this case, GFCI protection is required for the dishwasher
half.
images Circuit #8: Electric Range, Cooktop, or Oven

An electric range, oven, or cooktop requires a dedicated 120/240-volt
circuit with an insulated neutral (see here). For a full-size range, it is best to
install a 50-amp circuit, using 6-AWG copper wire. Freestanding ranges
typically plug into a wall or floor receptacle, which must be four-slot
(separate neutral and ground wires). Cooktops and built-in ovens typically
are hardwired and may need a 30-, 40-, or 50-amp circuit, depending on the
appliance wattage and the local code requirements.
images Circuit #9: Range Hood

Range hoods, or kitchen exhaust fans, vary widely in size and wattage, so
it’s important to consult the manufacturer’s recommendations for circuit
capacity. For plug-in fans, the NEC requires a dedicated 120-volt circuit;
local code may or may not have the same requirement for hardwired fans.
When a dedicated circuit is not required, an exhaust fan may be served by a
kitchen lighting circuit, provided the circuit capacity is not exceeded.
images
Bathrooms
Bathrooms are the second most complex rooms to wire (next to kitchens, of
course), but they’re much simpler than kitchens. As a bare minimum, the
NEC requires a 120-volt, 20-amp, GFCI-protected receptacle within 3 feet
of each sink as well as a light controlled by a wall switch near the entrance.
If the bathroom does not have a window that opens, it must have an exhaust
fan with a capacity of at least 50 cfm (cubic feet per minute).
Meeting just these minimum requirements may be suitable for a small

powder room or half bath, but not anything bigger. A typical family
bathroom may have two or more circuits, multiple receptacles, several
lights, a large vent fan, and possibly a heater. A luxury master bath may
have all of that plus towel heaters, additional vent fans, a dedicated circuit
for a whirlpool tub or a 240-volt circuit feeding a spa heater.
There are some special rules governing what you can put on a bathroom
circuit, resulting in two basic approaches to the wiring plan:
1. 1. A single 20-amp circuit feeds everything in a single bathroom,

including receptacle(s), light(s), and exhaust fan. This circuit may not
be used for any other room.
2. 2. One or more 20-amp circuits feeds the receptacles in one or more
bathrooms, but it must be used only for bathroom receptacles. In
addition, a 15-amp or 20-amp lighting circuit feeds lights and exhaust
fans in one or more bathrooms or lighting and/or receptacles in other
rooms.
The first approach makes sense if you’re wiring a single bathroom with
relatively simple needs, as it can be fed with a single home run from the
service panel. However, if there are any heaters involved—such as an
exhaust fan with heat, an in-wall heater, or even a heater-type light fixture
—additional circuits may be required.
The second approach makes more sense for everything else, and it’s better
suited for bathrooms with potentially high demand. For example, in a busy
bathroom for growing children, there may be multiple high-wattage
appliances (hair dryers, curling irons, heaters, etc.) running at the same
time; that’s a lot of power draw for a single circuit. Separating the
receptacles from the other loads in the room leaves more capacity for the
receptacles.
Finally, there are some special rules for tub and shower areas:
• A light fixture directly above a tub or shower must be rated for wet
locations if it will be subject to shower spray; otherwise, it must be
rated for damp locations.
• The bathing zone—defined as the shower or tub area and 3 feet out
from and 8 feet above the shower threshold or tub rim—can not have a
paddle fan, hanging lights, track lights, or cord-connected fixtures.
A typical family bathroom might have the following circuits:
images Circuit #1: Receptacles
120-volt, 20-amp circuit with a GFCI breaker or at least one GFCI

receptacle (wired for multiple-location protection if there are additional
receptacles; see here).
images Circuit #2: Lighting and Ventilation
120-volt, 15- or 20-amp circuit for all lighting and a standard exhaust fan.
If the vent fan includes a heater, it may need its own circuit, but it will
surely need to be 20 amp.
images Circuit #3: Heating
120-volt, 20-amp circuit for a small in-wall heater or an exhaust fan with a
heater. For a larger heating unit, a 240-volt circuit may be required.
SHOWER IN-WALL HEATER CIRCUITS 1 2 3
images
Living & Dining Rooms
Living areas—including family rooms, TV rooms, rec rooms, living rooms,

and dining rooms—generally need lighting and receptacles, and these may
or may not be on the same circuit. Like all rooms in the house, each room
in the living area must have a switch-controlled light or a switched
receptacle (for plugging in a lamp that’s controlled by a wall switch at the
room’s entrance). Receptacles follow the “6-foot, 12-foot” rule:
Receptacles spaced no more than 12 feet apart so that no wall space is more
than 6 feet from a receptacle. Any wall space 2 feet or longer must have a
receptacle.
In addition to these basic standards, there are plenty of easy upgrades that
will help make rooms more functional and convenient:
• Full lighting control at all room entrances, with three-way or four-

way switch configurations
• Dimmer control for most or all fixed lighting
• Braced, ceiling-fan-rated box and separate switch control for a
ceiling fan
• Dedicated circuits for window air conditioners or baseboard heaters
• Receptacles closely flanking each window, fireplace, and built-in
features
• Recessed receptacle and data cable boxes for wall-mount TVs
• Floor receptacles for furniture groupings in room centers
• Lighting outlets for built-in cabinetry
All circuits in living areas must be AFCI-protected. Dining rooms treated

as living areas must be separate from kitchen areas. Dining areas adjoining
kitchens have special receptacle requirements (see here).
CIRCUITS 1 2 WINDOW FIREPLACE WINDOW LIGHT

AND/OR CEILING FAN ENTRY ENTRY
images
Bedrooms
Bedrooms don’t need much to meet code requirements and are typically
supplied by one or two circuits. But as with living and dining areas,
bedrooms can benefit greatly from additional receptacles and a thoughtful
lighting and switch layout. The minimum requirements for bedrooms
include a switch-controlled overhead light or a switched receptacle, and
standard receptacles following the 6-foot, 12-foot rule. All bedroom
circuits must be AFCI-protected and must include a smoke alarm (see
here).
Adding more receptacles and switches can make a bedroom not only more
user friendly, but it will also be more versatile, allowing for arranging (and
rearranging) furniture any way you like. Consider the following upgrades
in a bedroom plan:
• Include a receptacle about 2 feet from each wall corner, on both

adjacent walls. This provides a convenient place to plug in lamps,
electronics, or appliances regardless of the furniture arrangement.
• Add switched lighting at either side of the bed, if you have
established the bed location. Bedside switches can control a wall-
mounted reading light on each side of the bed as well as control the
room’s overhead lighting and ceiling fan (as applicable).
• Install a braced, ceiling-fan-rated box at the room’s center for the
overhead light and an optional ceiling fan. Include separate switch
control for a fan.
• Provide switch-controlled lighting in each closet. Lighting is not
required in reach-in closets, but it greatly improves usability. The best
place for lights is the wall above the door; this keeps fixtures well
away from storage areas (a code requirement; see here), and it
prevents shadows beneath shelving.
CLOSET BED LIGHT AND/OR CELING FAN CIRCUITS 1

2 WINDOW
images
Hallways, Stairways & Foyers

Hallways, stairs, foyers, and mudrooms typically are served by lighting and
receptacle circuits (and often by a single circuit), in addition to service for
smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms (see here). Most code
requirements are based on the size and/ or layout of the space. As a simple
upgrade to code minimums, you can always include more receptacles or
switches for added convenience and, in the case of lighting, improved
safety.
Hallways have one or more entrances, but all have at least two ends, and all
must have adequate lighting controlled by one or more wall switches. A
hallway with two entrances should have a three-way switch at each end.
Those with a single entrance need a switch at the entrance. It’s easy to add
a switch based on convenience. For example, if there are two bedrooms at
one end of a hallway, a switch on the wall between the bedroom doors
provides convenient control for someone exiting either room. If the hallway
is at least 10 feet long, it must have at least one receptacle, but it can
certainly have more.
All stairways need lighting that illuminates all landings and stair treads (the
horizontal part of a step). If the staircase has at least six risers (the vertical
part of a step), the lighting must be controlled by a three-way switch at the
top and bottom of the staircase. Receptacles are not required on stairways
— this is not a good place to leave plug-in appliances— but it adds
convenience to include a receptacle on a wall area near the top and bottom
of the stairs, for plugging in a vacuum cleaner.
Foyers and entryways that are larger than 60 square feet must have a
receptacle on any wall that is at least 3 feet long. The door and any
windows reaching to the floor do not count for this requirement. For
convenience, safety, and aesthetics, most entryways have an overhead light
fixture illuminating the entire area.
Mudrooms are entry areas that may be considered foyers, but if they are at
least 7 x 10 feet (the minimum size for habitable space), they may be
considered living areas, so it’s important to check with the local authority
for specific requirements.
SIDE ENTRY MAIN ENTRY CIRCUITS 1 2

images
Laundry Room
Laundry rooms require at least one dedicated 120-volt, 20-amp receptacle

circuit plus service from a separate lighting circuit. The lighting circuit may
serve other rooms; the receptacle circuit may not. Only one 20-amp
receptacle is required, and it must be located within 6 feet of the washing
machine. A gas dryer can also use this receptacle or any others on the same
circuit. If the room has any storage or work space, such as a counter area
for ironing or folding clothes, it’s a good idea to include one or more
additional receptacles. All receptacles on the 20-amp circuit must be GFCI-
and AFCI-protected.
If the laundry room contains an electric dryer, it needs a 30-amp

(minimum), GFCI-protected receptacle fed by a four-conductor branch
circuit.
CIRCUITS 1 2 3 DRYER WASHER DOOR
images
Garages and Basements
NEC requirements for garages apply to attached garages and detached

garages with electrical power. In addition to lighting, a garage needs at least
one 20-amp receptacle on a dedicated circuit. This receptacle requirement
overlaps with the requirement for vehicle bays: Each bay must have one
20-amp receptacle located not more than 5½ feet above the floor.
Therefore, a single-car garage needs at least one 20-amp receptacle, a two-
car garage needs at least two; a three-car garage needs three, and so on. All
receptacles in the garage must be GFCI protected.
Unfinished basements have similar minimum requirements to garages:

switched lighting and at least one receptacle in each unfinished area.
Lighting must illuminate any serviceable equipment, such as a furnace or
water heater.
Finished basements are considered living space and thus are subject to all
of the rules applied to living space elsewhere in the house, with one
important difference: All receptacles in the basement must be GFCI
protected, whether the basement is finished or unfinished.
There are several easy upgrades to the code minimum that will make a
garage or unfinished basement safer and more convenient:
• Additional receptacles for work areas: These should be 20-amp and

located at a convenient height for a work bench.
• A ceiling-mounted, GFCI-protected receptacle for each garage door
opener.
• Ample overhead lighting controlled by a switch at each entrance (not
counting any vehicle door).
• Task lighting for work areas; this could be on a separate switch or
controlled by the main switch at the entrance(s).
Note: The garage wall that is shared with the house is an important fire
barrier. Never install electrical boxes on the interior and garage sides of the
wall so that the boxes are back to back. Instead, make sure they are in
separate stud bays, and offset them by at least 24 inches to maintain the fire
barrier.
VEHICLE BAY VEHICLE BAY WORK BENCH

OVERHEAD DOOR HOUSE DOOR CIRCUITS 1 2
images
Crawlspaces & Attics
Circuit requirements for crawlspaces and unfinished attics vary by local

code and whether or not the space houses serviceable equipment, such as a
furnace or other HVAC appliances. These spaces also tend to be used for
long-term storage, especially in homes without basements. All of this
supports the need for adequate and convenient lighting in these unfinished
spaces.
If serviceable equipment is present, there must be lighting for all equipment
requiring service, and the lighting circuit must be GFCI protected in a
crawlspace. The lighting must be controlled by a switch near the entrance.
In addition, there must be a 15- or 20-amp receptacle located on the same
level and within 25 feet of the equipment (this also must be GFCI protected
in a crawlspace). The receptacle may not be connected to the load side
(downstream) of the required branch circuit disconnect for the equipment.
Electrical service for HVAC equipment is specific to the equipment type

and model; local code and the equipment manufacturer will determine what
is required. As an example, a standard forced-air gas furnace needs a
dedicated 15- or 20-amp circuit with an approved means of disconnect.
Usually this includes a switch on or near the furnace so the furnace power
can be easily shut off during repairs. In some cases, the circuit’s breaker
can serve as the disconnect.
If a crawlspace or attic does not house serviceable equipment, it’s still a

good idea to include lighting for all usable or accessible portions of the
space. A general lighting circuit with a switch at the entrance to the space
will suffice.
CIRCUITS 1 2 3 FURNACE ENTRANCE
images
Outdoors
The minimum requirements for outdoor wiring are surprisingly simple.

Homes need one receptacle at the front of the house and one at the back.
Decks, balconies, and porches within 4 inches of the house also need a
receptacle.
For lighting, each entry door at ground level needs a light (excluding
garage doors for vehicles), as does a stairway landing that provides
entrance to the house.
If there is outdoor air-conditioning equipment, there must be a 15- or 20-

amp receptacle within 25 feet of the equipment and on the same level as the
equipment.
All outdoor receptacles must be GFCI protected. The required front and
rear receptacles may be no higher than 6½ feet above grade, and
receptacles on decks, balconies, or porches may be no more than 6½ feet
above the walking surface. Outdoor receptacles and lighting can be served
by circuits serving other areas, such as interior lighting and receptacle
circuits or garage circuits not serving vehicle bays.
In addition to the minimum requirements, consider a few upgrades for

improved safety or convenience:
• Receptacle in a convenient location for plugging in a low-voltage

lighting transformer
• Switch-controlled receptacle(s) for holiday lights
• Extra wall receptacles and an outlet for a ceiling fan for a covered
porch or patio (areas that tend to be used as indoor/outdoor spaces)
• Lighting above or at the sides of vehicle doors
Note: Outdoor light fixtures and receptacles must be rated

outdoor/weather-resistant (WR) type, and receptacles must have an
approved cover (see here).
DECK/PATIO CIRCUITS 1 2 REAR ENTRY GARAGE

OVERHEAD DOOR HOUSE FRONT ENTRY AC
CONDENSER
Circuit Maps
T he circuit maps on
the following pages show
the most common wiring
variations for typical
electrical devices. Most
new wiring you install
will match one or more
of the maps shown. Find
the maps that match your
situation and use them to
plan your circuit layouts.
The 120-volt circuits shown on the following
pages are wired for 15 amps using 14-gauge wire and
receptacles rated at 15 amps. If you are installing a
20-amp circuit, substitute 12-gauge wires and use
receptacles rated for 15 or 20 amps.
In configurations where a white wire serves as a
hot wire instead of a neutral, both ends of the wire
are coded with black tape to identify it as hot. In
addition, each of the circuit maps shows a box
grounding screw. This grounding screw is required in
all metal boxes, but plastic electrical boxes do not
need to be grounded.
You should remember two recent code
requirements when wiring switches. (1) Provide a
neutral wire at every switch box. This may require
using 3-wire cable or two 2-wire cables where you
may have used one 2-wire cable in the past. (2) Use a
black or red wire to supply power from a 3-way or a
4-way switch to a light or switched receptacle.
NOTE: For clarity, all grounding conductors in the circuit maps

are colored green. In practice, the grounding wires inside sheathed
cables usually are bare copper.
In this chapter:
• Common Household Circuits
Common Household Circuits
1. 120-Volt Duplex Receptacles Wired in Sequence

Use this layout to link any number of duplex receptacles in a basic
lighting/receptacle circuit. The last receptacle in the cable run is
connected like the receptacle shown at the right side of the circuit
map below. All other receptacles are wired like the receptacle
shown on the left side. This configuration or layout requires two-
wire cables.
2. GFCI Receptacles (Single-Location Protection)
Use this layout when receptacles are within 6 ft. of a sink or water
source, such as those in kitchens and bathrooms. To prevent
nuisance tripping caused by normal power surges, GFCIs should be
connected only at the line screw terminal so they protect a single
location, not the fixtures on the load side of the circuit. Requires
two-wire cables. Where a GFCI must protect other fixtures, use
circuit map 3. Remember that bathroom receptacles should be on a
dedicated 20-amp circuit and that all bathroom receptacles must be
GFCI protected.
3. GFCI Receptacle, Switch & Light Fixture (Wired
for Multiple-Location Protection)
In some locations, such as an outdoor circuit, it is a good idea to
connect a GFCI receptacle so it also provides shock protection to
the wires and fixtures that continue to the end of the circuit. Wires
from the power source are connected to the line screw terminals;
outgoing wires are connected to load screws. Requires two-wire
cables.
4. Single-Pole Switch & Light Fixture (Light Fixture
at End of Cable Run)
Use this layout for light fixtures in basic lighting/ receptacle
circuits throughout the home. It is often used as an extension to a
series of receptacles (circuit map 1). Requires two-wire cables.
5. Single-Pole Switch & Light Fixture (Switch at End
of Cable Run)
Use this layout, sometimes called a switch loop, where it is more
practical to locate a switch at the end of the cable run. In the last
length 3-wire cable is used to make a hot conductor available in
each direction. Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
6. Single-Pole Switch & Two Light Fixtures (Switch
Between Light Fixtures, Light at Start of Cable
Run)
Use this layout when you need to control two fixtures from one
single-pole switch and the switch is between the two lights in the
cable run. Power feeds to one of the lights. Requires two-wire and
three-wire cables.
7. Single-Pole Switch & Light Fixture, Duplex
Receptacle (Switch at Start of Cable Run)
Use this layout to continue a circuit past a switched light fixture to
one or more duplex receptacles. To add multiple receptacles to the
circuit, see circuit map 1. Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
8. Switch-Controlled Split Receptacle, Duplex
Receptacle (Switch at Start of Cable Run)
This layout lets you use a wall switch to control a lamp plugged
into a wall receptacle. This configuration is required by code for
any room that does not have a switch-controlled wall or ceiling
fixture. Only the bottom half of the first receptacle is controlled by
the wall switch; the top half of the receptacle and all additional
receptacles on the circuit are always hot. Requires two-wire and
three-wire cables. Some electricians help people identify switched
receptacles by installing them upside down.
9. Switch-Controlled Split Receptacle (Switch at End
of Cable Run)
Use this switch loop layout to control a split receptacle (see circuit
map 7) from an end-of-run circuit location. The bottom half of the
receptacle is controlled by the wall switch, while the top half is
always hot. Requires two-wire and three-wire cable. Some
electricians help people identify switched receptacles by installing
them upside down.
10. Switch-Controlled Split Receptacle, Duplex
Receptacle (Split Receptacle at Start of Run)
Use this variation of circuit map 7 where it is more practical to
locate a switch-controlled receptacle at the start of a cable run.
Only the bottom half of the first receptacle is controlled by the wall
switch; the top half of the receptacle, and all other receptacles on
the circuit, are always hot. Requires two-wire and three- wire
cables. Some electricians help people identify switched receptacles
by installing them upside down.
11. Double Receptacle Circuit with Shared Neutral
Wire (Receptacles Alternate Circuits)
This layout features two 120-volt circuits wired with one three-wire
cable connected to a double-pole circuit breaker. The black hot
wire powers one circuit; the red wire powers the other. The white
wire is a shared neutral that serves both circuits. When wired with
12/2 and 12/3 cable and receptacles rated for 20 amps, this layout
can be used for the two small-appliance circuits required in a
kitchen. Remember to use a GFCI circuit breaker if you use this
circuit for kitchen countertop receptacles.
12. Double Receptacle Small-Appliance Circuit with
GFCIs & Shared Neutral Wire
Use this layout variation of circuit map 10 to wire a double
receptacle circuit when code requires that some of the receptacles
be GFCIs. The GFCIs should be wired for single-location
protection (see circuit map 2). Requires three-wire and two-wire
cables.
13. Double Receptacle Small-Appliance Circuit with
GFCIs & Separate Neutral Wires
If the room layout or local codes do not allow for a shared neutral
wire, use this layout instead. The GFCIs should be wired for single-
location protection (see circuit map 2). Requires two-wire cable.
14. 120/240-Volt Range Receptacle
This layout is for a 40- or 50-amp, 120/240-volt dedicated
appliance circuit wired with 8/3 or 6/3 cable, as required by code
for a large kitchen range. The black and red circuit wires,
connected to a double-pole circuit breaker in the circuit breaker
panel, each bring 120 volts of power to the setscrew terminals on
the receptacle. The white circuit wire attached to the neutral bus
bar in the circuit breaker panel is connected to the neutral setscrew
terminal on the receptacle. The receptacle must be GFCI protected
if it is within 6 feet of a sink.
15. 240-Volt Baseboard Heaters, Thermostat
This layout is typical for a series of 240-volt baseboard heaters
controlled by a wall thermostat. Except for the last heater in the
circuit, all heaters are wired as shown below. The last heater is
connected to only one cable. The sizes of the circuit and cables are
determined by finding the total wattage of all heaters. Requires
two-wire cable.
16. Dedicated 120-Volt Computer Circuit, Isolated-
Ground Receptacle
This 15-amp isolated-ground circuit provides extra protection
against surges and interference that can harm electronics. It uses
14/3 cable with the red wire serving as an extra grounding
conductor. The red wire is tagged with green tape for identification.
It is connected to the grounding screw on an isolated-ground
receptacle and runs back to the grounding bus bar in the circuit
breaker panel without touching any other house wiring.
17. 240-Volt Appliance Receptacle
This layout represents a 20-amp, 240-volt dedicated appliance
circuit wired with 12/2 cable, as required by code for a large
window air conditioner. Receptacles are available in both
singleplex (shown) and duplex styles. The black and the white
circuit wires connected to a double-pole breaker each bring 120
volts of power to the receptacle (combined, they bring 240 volts).
The white wire is tagged with black tape to indicate it is hot.
18. Ganged Single-Pole Switches Controlling
Separate Light Fixtures
This layout lets you place two switches controlled by the same 120-
volt circuit in one double-gang electrical box. A single-feed cable
provides power to both switches. A similar layout with two feed
cables can be used to place switches from different circuits in the
same box. Requires two-wire cable.
19. Ganged Switches Controlling a Light Fixture and
a Vent Fan
This layout lets you place two switches controlled by the same 120-
volt circuit in one double-gang electrical box. A single-feed cable
provides power to both switches. A standard switch controls the
light fixture, and a time-delay switch controls the vent fan.
2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE
CABLE
20. Three-Way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture
Between Switches)
This layout for three-way switches lets you control a light fixture
from two locations. Each switch has one common screw terminal
and two traveler screws. Circuit wires attached to the traveler
screws run between the two switches, and hot wires attached to the
common screws bring current from the power source and carry it to
the light fixture. Requires parallel runs of 2-wire cable.
images
2-WIRE CABLE Traveler 2-WIRE CABLE 2-
WIRE CABLE Common Coded for hot Traveler
Common
21. Three-Way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture at
Start of Cable Run)
Use this layout variation of circuit map 19 where it is more
convenient to locate the fixture ahead of the three-way switches in
the cable run. Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
images
Traveler 2-WIRE CABLE 3-WIRE CABLE 2-
WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Common Common
Traveler Coded for hot
22. Three-Way Switches & Light Fixture (Fixture at
End of Cable Run)
This variation of the three-way switch layout (circuit map 20) is
used where it is more practical to locate the fixture at the end of the
cable run. Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
images
CABLE Common Traveler Common Traveler
Traveler
23. Three-Way Switches & Light Fixture with
Duplex Receptacle
Use this layout to add a receptacle to a three-way switch
configuration (circuit map 21). Requires two-wire and parallel runs
of two-wire cables.
images
2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Common
Common Coded for hot Traveler 2-WIRE CABLE
Traveler 2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Coded
for hot
24. Three-Way Switches & Multiple Light Fixtures
(Fixtures Between Switches)
This is a variation of circuit map 20. Use it to place multiple light
fixtures between two three-way switches where power comes in at
one of the switches. Requires two- and three-wire cable.
images
2-WIRE CABLE 3-WIRE CABLE Common 2-
WIRE CABLE Coded for hot 2-WIRE CABLE
Common 3-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE
25. Three-Way Switches & Multiple Light Fixtures
(Fixtures at Beginning of Run)
This is a variation of circuit map 21. Use it to place multiple light
fixtures at the beginning of a run controlled by two three-way
switches. Power comes in at the first fixture. Requires two- and
three-wire cable.
images
CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Common Coded for hot
Common 2-WIRE CABLE
26. Four-Way Switch & Light Fixture (Fixture at
Start of Cable Run)
This layout lets you control a light fixture from three locations. The
end switches are three-way, and the middle is four-way. A pair of
three-wire cables enter the box of the four-way switch. The white
and red wires from one cable attach to the top pair of screw
terminals (line 1), and the white and red wires from the other cable
attach to the bottom screw terminals (line 2). Requires two three-
way switches and one four-way switch and two-wire and three-wire
cables.
images
CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Coded for hot 2-WIRE
CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Coded for hot
27. Four-Way Switch & Light Fixture (Fixture at End
of Cable Run)
Use this layout variation of circuit map 26 where it is more
practical to locate the fixture at the end of the cable run. Requires
two three-way switches and one four-way switch and two-wire and
three-wire cables.
images
CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE Common Common
28. Multiple Four-Way Switches Controlling a Light
Fixture
This alternate variation of the four-way switch layout (circuit map
27) is used where three or more switches will control a single
fixture. The outer switches are three-way, and the middle are four-
way. Requires two three-way switches and two four-way switches
and two-wire and three-wire cables.
images
CABLE 3-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE
Common
29. Four-Way Switches & Multiple Light Fixtures
This variation of the four-way switch layout (circuit map 26) is
used where two or more fixtures will be controlled from multiple
locations in a room. Outer switches are three-way, and the middle
switch is a four-way. Requires two three-way switches and one
four-way switch and two-wire and three-wire cables.
images
CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE
CABLE 3-WIRE CABLE Coded for hot Coded for
hot
30. Ceiling Fan/Light Fixture Controlled by Ganged
Switches (Fan at End of Cable Run)
This layout is for a combination ceiling fan/light fixture controlled
by a speed-control switch and dimmer in a double-gang switch box.
Requires two-wire and three-wire cables.
To light To fan 2-WIRE CABLE 3-WIRE CABLE
31. Ceiling Fan/Light Fixture Controlled by Ganged
Switches (Switches at End of Cable Run)
Use this switch loop layout variation when it is more practical to
install the ganged speed control and dimmer switches for the
ceiling fan at the end of the cable run. Requires two-wire and
parallel runs of two-wire cables.
To light To fan 3-WIRE CABLE (NEUTRAL NOT
USED) 2-WIRE CABLE 2-WIRE CABLE
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Common Wiring Projects
he instructions that follow show you how to accomplish
the most popular home wiring projects. Refer to
pertinent sections elsewhere in the book to find
background information on tools and skills needed to
get the job done.
T In this chapter:
• GFCI & AFCI Breakers
• Surge-Protective Devices
images
• Service Panels
• Grounding & Bonding a
Wiring System
• Subpanels
• 120/240-Volt Dryer
Receptacles
• 120/240-Volt Range
Receptacles
• Ceiling Lights
• Recessed Ceiling Lights
• Track Lights
• Undercabinet Lights
• Vanity Lights
• Low-Voltage Cable Lights
• Hardwired Smoke Alarms &
CO Alarms
• Landscape Lights
• Doorbells
• Wireless Switches
• Baseboard Heaters
• Wall Heaters
• Underfloor Radiant Heat
Systems
• Ceiling Fans
• Remote-Control Ceiling Fan
Retrofit
• Bathroom Exhaust Fans
• Range Hoods
• Backup Power Supply
• Installing a Transfer Switch
• Outbuildings
• Motion-Sensing Floodlights
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GFCI & AFCI Breakers
U nderstanding the difference between GFCI
(ground-fault circuit-interrupter) and AFCI (arc-fault
circuit-interrupter) is tricky for most homeowners.
Essentially it comes down to this: Arc-fault interrupters
keep your house from burning down; ground-fault
interrupters keep people from being electrocuted. AFCIs
and GFCIs may not be substituted for each other, and
every room in the house requires one or both types of
protection.
The National Electric Code (NEC) requires that an
AFCI breaker be installed on most branch circuits that
supply outlets or fixtures in newly constructed homes.
The NEC also requires adding AFCI protection to select
circuits when you add new circuits and modify or
extend existing circuits. Because AFCI devices protect
against faults that commonly lead to house fires, they
are a prudent precaution in any home, especially if it has
older wiring.
AFCI breakers will not interfere with the operation
of GFCI receptacles, so it is safe to install an AFCI
breaker on a circuit that contains GFCI receptacles.
Where both AFCI and GFCI protection are required, the
simplest and most protective solution is to install a dual-
function GFCI/AFCI breaker, which provides ground-
fault and arc-fault protection to the entire circuit.
GROUND-FAULT CIRCUIT-INTERRUPTERS
A GFCI is an important safety device that disconnects a
circuit or device in the event of a ground fault (when
current takes a path other than the neutral back to the
panel). One common example demonstrating a ground-
fault risk is the case of the faulty hair dryer: If a person
is using a hair dryer that is not properly insulated or
protected (most hair dryers today have their own GFCI
protection) and the dryer has an internal fault (such as a
loose wire), the case of the dryer can become energized,
and that stray electrical current will seek the easiest path
to ground. If the user touches water or a metal object
with their free hand, they can create a path to ground
(the metal or water), and the fault current can pass
through the user’s body—a potentially deadly event. A
GFCI would detect this ground fault and shut off the
power before the user is badly harmed.
WHERE ARE AFCI & GFCI PROTECTION
REQUIRED?
Kitchen AFCI & GFCI
Dishwasher AFCI & GFCI
Dining Room AFCI
Living Room AFCI
Bedrooms AFCI
Bathrooms GFCI
Whirlpool/Jetted Bathtubs GFCI
Basement GFCI (also AFCI if finished)
Family Room AFCI
Den AFCI
Recreation Room AFCI
Library AFCI
Parlor AFCI
Hallways AFCI
Closets AFCI
Laundry Area AFCI & GFCI
Sunroom AFCI
Garage GFCI
Outdoors GFCI
Crawl Space (lights & receptacles) GFCI
Sump Pump GFCI
Swimming Pool & Spa GFCI
On new construction and when adding or extending

electrical circuits, GFCI protection is required for
receptacles and equipment in any location that might
involve moisture, such as by sinks, near kitchen and
bath countertops, outdoors, in basements, and around
swimming pools and spas; see the chart above for
specific requirements. In general, it is a good practice to
protect all receptacle and fixture locations that could
encounter damp or wet conditions.
ARC-FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS
As with a ground fault, an arc fault occurs when
electrical current follows an unintended path. You’ve
seen an example of minor arching when you unplug an
appliance that is still running, and there’s a small spark
between the cord prong and the receptacle slot. While
this arching is relatively harmless, arc faults that occur
within house wiring can be very dangerous because they
create intense heat that can melt wiring insulation and
ignite combustible materials, such as wood framing.
There are two types of arc faults: serial and parallel.
A serial, or series, arc fault can occur when there’s a
small break or gap in series with the electrical load. For
example, if a hot wire has a break, an arc fault results
from the electrical current jumping across the gap
between the wire ends. A parallel arc fault occurs when
a hot wire makes contact with another hot wire or a
neutral or ground conductor. A metal staple piercing a
cable can make a connection between the hot wire and
another wire inside the cable, resulting in a parallel arc
fault. AFCI breakers today are labeled “combination,”
meaning they protect against both serial and parallel arc
faults.
ABCD
Breakers designed for extra protection: 20-amp GFCI (A), 30-amp double-
pole GFCI (B), 20-amp combination AFCI (C), and 20-amp dual-function
GFCI/AFCI (D). GFCI and AFCI breakers are identifiable by two features: a
white coiled neutral wire (which connects to the terminal bar in the panel) and a
manual test button on the face of the breaker. While today’s GFCI and AFCI
devices include a self-monitoring feature that automatically tests for device
failure, it is important to test the breakers manually (using the test button) as
specified by the manufacturer.
AFCI protection is required for 15- and 20-amp, 120-

volt circuits serving most areas of the house, except for
bathrooms, garages, outdoors, and crawlspaces; see the
chart on this page for specific requirements. The easiest
way to provide AFCI protection for a circuit is to install
an AFCI circuit breaker. The NEC permits several
alternate methods of providing AFCI protection, but you
should consult an electrician before using these alternate
methods. You should use combination AFCI circuit
breakers when installing new circuits that require AFCI
protection. You should install either combination AFCI
circuit breakers or AFCI receptacles when you modify,
replace, or extend an existing circuit that requires AFCI
protection.
DUAL-FUNCTION GFCI/ AFCI BREAKERS
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Insulated screwdriver
Voltage tester
Combination tool
AFCI, GFCI, or dual-function GFCI/AFCI circuit breaker
Dual-function GFCI/AFCI circuit breakers provide

GFCI and AFCI protection to an entire circuit from a
single 15- or 20-amp breaker. Using a dual-function
breaker is an easy way to meet the requirement for
rooms that need both GFCI and AFCI protection, such
as kitchens and basements. Dual-function breakers
should not be confused with combination AFCI
breakers, which do not provide GFCI protection. Dual-
function is a GFCI plus a combination AFCI.
How to Install an AFCI, GFCI, or Dual-Function
GFCI/AFCI Breaker
1
Locate the breaker for the circuit you’d like to protect. Turn off the main
circuit breaker. Remove the cover from the panel, and test to ensure that
power is off (see here). Remove the breaker you want to replace from the
panel. Remove the black wire from the LOAD terminal of the breaker.
2
Find the white wire on the circuit you want to protect, and remove it from
the neutral terminal bar.
3
Flip the handle of the new AFCI or GFCI breaker to OFF. Loosen both of
the breaker’s terminal screws. Connect the black circuit wire to the breaker
terminal labeled LOAD POWER. Connect the white circuit wire to the
breaker terminal labeled PANEL NEUTRAL.
4
Connect the new breaker’s coiled white wire to the neutral terminal bar on
the panel.
5
Make sure all the connections are tight. Snap the new breaker into the bus
bar.
6
Turn the main breaker on. Turn off and unplug all fixtures and appliances
on the AFCI or GFCI breaker circuit. Turn the AFCI or GFCI breaker on.
Press the test button. If the breaker is wired correctly, the breaker trips open.
If it doesn’t trip, check all connections or consult an electrician. Replace the
panel cover.
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Surge-Protective Devices
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer
Combination tool
Screwdrivers
Cable ripper
Linesman’s pliers
Circuit tester
Crimping tools
Whole-house surge arrestor
Conduit nipple and locknuts
Two 15- or 20-amp single-pole breakers
Coaxial cable and terminators
UTP cable and terminators
E lectrical surges caused by lighting or utility

malfunctions can destroy or seriously damage sensitive
electronics. Many homes contain tens of thousands of
dollars worth of computers and home entertainment
equipment protected by no more than a $10 plug-in
surge suppressor. While these devices do afford a
modest level of protection, they are no match for the
voltage a lightning strike will push through a system.
And they offer no protection for the wiring itself. Surge-
protective devices (SPD), or whole-house surge
arrestors, provide comprehensive protection for the
wiring and devices attached to it. The NEC now requires
surge protection for new and replacement services.
Surge-protective devices (SPD) are available in two
basic types. Type I (SPD I) devices may be installed on
the utility (line) side of the service equipment (main
circuit breaker) or may be installed on the load side of
the service equipment. Type II (SPD II) devices may be
installed only on the load side of the service equipment.
Do not attempt to install anything on the line side of the
service equipment. Leave this work to a licensed
electrician.
Manufacturers offer units that are housed in separate
boxes (these look like a small subpanel) as well as
models that are designed to replace a double-pole
breaker in the panel itself. These install like standard
breakers. Both types provide protection for the whole
house. Freestanding models are also available with
separate protection for phone, data, and cable-television
lines—a wise addition if you need to protect networked
computers or cable-TV receivers.
Whatever style you choose, look for models with the
Underwriters Laboratories 1449 rating and indicator
lights showing that the system is protected. Most
manufacturers also include a warranty against defect
that covers a certain amount of property damage.
Surge arrestor unit
A whole-house surge arrestor is an inexpensive defense against expensive

damage from high-voltage shocks caused by lightning strikes and power surges.
Most models install next to the main panel.
Cable in from demarcation jack Main
circuit wires Protected tele. out to
household jacks Tele. in from
demarcation jack Surge arrestor
Dedicated breakers for surge arrestor
Protected cable-TV out to household
jacks
A surge arrestor installed at the panel protects all downstream connected

devices and wires.
How to Install a Whole-House Surge Arrestor
1
Turn off power at the main breaker. Remove the cover, and test to make
sure the power is off. Mount the arrestor near the service panel following the
manufacturer’s instructions. Typically the arrestor mounts on one side of the
panel so its knockout lines up with a lower knockout on the panel. Remove
the knockout on the panel. Install a conduit nipple on the arrestor, and thread
the wires from the arrestor through the nipple and into the panel. Slip the
other end of the nipple through the opening in the panel, and tighten the
locknut. Secure the box to the wall with screws as directed.
2
Trim the wires as short as possible without making sharp bends. Connect
the two black wires to two dedicated 15- or 20-amp breakers. Connect the
white neutral wire to the neutral bar and the green grounding wire to the
grounding bar. Keep wire lengths as short as possible. Snap the new
breakers into the bus bar. Restore the power and carefully test that the
voltage between the two black arrestor leads is 240 volts. Replace the panel
cover and the arrestor cover. If the arrestor has indicator lights, they should
glow, showing that the system is now protected.
LINE bar EQUIPMENT bar
VARIATION: If the arrestor has separate protection for a cable

television circuit, remove the appropriate knockout from the arrestor and
run a coaxial cable to the arrestor from the cable-TV demarcation jack.
Connect the coaxial cable to the ANT-IN terminal on the cable-TV
protection module. Run another coaxial cable from the TV-OUT terminal
to the cable TV junction box or the distribution panel. Do not overtighten
the connections.
TV-OUT terminal ANT-IN terminal
VARIATION: If the arrestor has separate protection for the telephone

circuits, remove the cable that runs from the phone demarcation jack to
the junction box. Then remove a knockout in the arrestor and route a
new UTP cable from the demarcation jack to the arrestor. Strip insulation
from the wires and connect them to the terminals on the LINE bar
(labeled IN on some models) on the phone protection module in the
arrestor. Run a UTP cable from the EQUIPMENT bar (labeled OUT on
some models) to the junction box. Strip and connect the wires from this
cable to the appropriate terminals in the arrestor and the junction box.
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Service Panels
TOOLS & MATERIALS
200-amp service panel

200-amp bypass meter base
Circuit breakers
Schedule 80 or RMC conduit and fittings
Weatherhead
Service cable
Circuit wires
Plywood backer board
Screwdrivers
Drill/driver
Tape
Allen wrench
Circuit tester
Multimeter
R eplacing an old 60- or 100-amp electrical service

panel with a new 200-amp panel is an ambitious project
that requires a lot of forethought. Upgrading your
electrical service panel from 100 amps to 200 amps is an
ambitious project that requires a lot of forethought. The
first step is to obtain a permit. When you are ready to
begin, you will need to have your utility company
disconnect your house from electrical service at the
transformer that feeds your house. When you schedule
this, talk to your utility company about the size of your
service drop or lateral. That may need to be upgraded
too.
Also check with your utility company to make sure
you know what equipment is theirs and what belongs to
you. In most cases, the electric meter and everything on
the street side belongs to the power company, and the
meter base and everything on the house side is yours. Be
aware that if you tamper with the sealed meter in any
way, you likely will be fined. Utility companies will not
re-energize your system without approval from your
inspecting agency.
Note: The NEC requires outdoor emergency disconnects for home

services in new construction, homes undergoing renovation, and all
service replacements. An exterior disconnect allows emergency crews
to shut off the power. Approved disconnects include
• Service disconnects
• Meter disconnects
• Listed disconnect switches or circuit breakers
Disconnects may be located before or after the meter
base and may be in their own enclosure. They must be
clearly labeled. Check with the local code authority for
specific requirements.
Before
After
Modern homeowners consume more power than our forebears, and it is often
necessary to upgrade the electrical service to keep pace. While homeowners are
not allowed to make the final electrical service connections, removing the old
panel and installing the new panel and meter base yourself can save you
hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Service
drop
cables
Service
mast RMC
conduit
Aboveground service drop. In this common configuration, the service cables

from the closest transformer (called the service drop) connect to service
entrance wires near the weatherhead. This connection is called the service point
and is where your property usually begins. The service entrance wires from the
weatherhead are routed to a power meter that’s owned by your utility company
but is housed in a base that’s considered your property. From the meter, the
service entrance wires enter your house through the wall and are routed to the
main service panel, where they are connected to the main circuit breaker.
Power
meter
Meter base
Service
disconnect
Strap
Underground service lateral. Increasingly, homebuilders are choosing to have

power supplied to their new homes underground instead of an overhead service
drop. Running the cables in the ground eliminates problems with power outages
caused by ice accumulation or fallen trees, but it entails a completely different
set of cable and conduit requirements. For the homeowner, however, the
differences are minimal, because the hookups are identical once the power
service reaches the meter.
LOCATING YOUR NEW PANEL
Local codes dictate where the main service panel may be placed
relative to other parts of your home. Although local codes vary
(and always take precedence), national codes stipulate that a
service panel (or any other distribution panel) may not be
located near flammable materials, in a bathroom, clothes closet
or other area designated for storage, above stairway steps, or
directly above a workbench or other permanent work station or
appliance. The panel also can’t be located in a crawl space. If
you are installing a new service entry hookup, there are many
regulations regarding height of the service drop and the meter.
Contact your local inspections office for specific regulations.
Maximum circuit
breaker height 79"
(ideal height 60")
Minimum 78" high
unobstructed access
Minimum 36" deep
unobstructed access
Minimum 30" wide
unobstructed access
Attach to studs or to
¾" plywood backer
ABCDE
All the equipment you’ll need to upgrade your main panel is sold at most
larger building centers. It includes (A) a new 200-amp panel; (B) a 200-amp
bypass meter base (also called a socket); (C) individual circuit breakers; (D)
new, THW, THHW, THWN-2. RHW, RHW-2, XHHW 2/0 copper or 4/0
aluminum; (E) 2"-diameter rigid metallic conduit; (F) weatherhead for mast.
Meter Shutoff switch
The main circuit breaker (called the service equipment) may need to be
located outside next to the electric meter if your main panel is too far away from
the point where the service cable enters your house. The maximum distance
allowed varies widely, from as little as 3 ft. to more than 10 ft. Wiring the
service cable through the shutoff has the effect of transforming your main panel
into a subpanel, which will impact how the neutral and ground wires are
attached (see Subpanels, here–here).
How to Replace a Main Panel
1
Shut off power to the house at the transformer. This must be done by a
technician who is certified by your utility company. Also have the utility
worker remove the old meter from the base. It is against the law for a
homeowner to break the seal on the meter.
2
Label all incoming circuit wires before disconnecting them. Labels should
be written clearly on tape that is attached to the cables outside of the existing
service panel. Test the circuits before starting to make sure they are labeled
correctly.
3
Disconnect incoming circuit wires from breakers, grounding bar, and

neutral terminal bar. Also disconnect cable clamps at the knockouts on the
panel box. Retract all circuit wires from the service panel and coil them up
neatly, with the labels clearly visible.
4
Unscrew the lugs securing the service entry cables at the top of the panel.
For 240-volt service you will find two heavygauge SE cables, probably with
black sheathing. Each cable carries 120 volts of electricity. A neutral service
cable, usually of smaller gauge than the SE cables, will be attached to the
neutral terminal bar. This cable returns current to the source.
5
Remove the old service panel box. Boxes are rated for a maximum current
capacity; and if you are upgrading, the components in the old box will be
undersized for the new service levels. The new box will have a greater
number of circuit slots as well.
6
Replace the old panel backer board with a larger board in the installation
area (see sidebar, here). A piece of ¾" plywood is typical. Make sure the
board is well secured to wall framing members.
7
Attach the new service panel box to the backer board, making sure that at
least two screws are driven through the backer and into wall studs. Drill
clearance holes in the back of the box at stud locations if necessary. Use
roundhead screws that do not have tapered shanks so the screwhead seats
flat against the panel.
8
Attach properly sized cable clamps to the box at the knockout holes.
Install one cable per knockout in this type of installation and plan carefully
to avoid removing knockouts that you do not need to remove (if you do
make a mistake, you can fill the knockout hole with a plug).
SPLICING IN THE BOX
Some wiring codes allow you to make splices inside the panel
box if the circuit wire is too short. Use the correct wire cap
and wind electrical tape over the conductors where they enter
the cap. If your municipality does not allow splices in the
panel box, you’ll have to rectify a short cable by splicing it in
a junction box before it reaches the panel and then replacing
the cable with a longer section for the end of the run. Make
sure each circuit line has at least 12" of slack.
images
9
Attach the white neutral from each circuit cable to the neutral terminal
bar. Most panels have a preinstalled neutral terminal bar, but in some cases
you may need to purchase the bar separately and attach it to the panel back.
The panel should also have a separate grounding bar that you also may need
to purchase separately. Attach the grounds as well.
Note: For GFCI and AFCI breakers, the neutral circuit wire
connects to the breaker, and the breaker’s coiled neutral lead
connects to the neutral terminal bar.
10
Attach each hot circuit wire to the terminal on the circuit breaker, and then
snap the breaker into an empty slot. When loading slots, start at the top of
the panel and work your way downward. It is important that you balance the
circuits as you go to equalize the amperage. For example, do not install all
the 15-amp circuits on one side and all the 20-amp circuits on the other.
11
Create an accurate circuit index and affix it to the inside of the service
panel door. List all loads that are on the circuit as well as the amperage.
Once you have restored power to the new service panel, test out each circuit
to make sure you don’t have any surprises. With the main breakers on, shut
off all individual circuit breakers, and then flip each one on by itself. Walk
through your house and test every switch and receptacle to confirm the loads
on that circuit.
12
Install grounding conductors (see here–here). Local codes are very

specific about how the grounding and bonding needs to be accomplished.
For example, some require multiple rods driven at least 6 ft. apart. Discuss
your grounding requirements thoroughly with your inspector or an
electrician before making your plan.
13
Replace the old meter base (have the utility company remove the meter
when they shut off power to the house, step 1). Remove the old meter base,
also called a socket, and install a new base that’s rated for the amperage of
your new power service. Here, a 200-amp bypass meter base is being
installed.
14
Update the conduit that runs from your house to the bottom of the meter
base. This should be 2" rigid conduit in good repair. Attach the conduit to
the base and wall with the correct fittings. Rigid metal conduit is a good
option, but Schedule 80 PVC is probably the best choice for housing the
service entrance wires.
15
Install new service entrance wires. Each wire carries 120 volts from the
meter to the service wire lugs at the top of your service panel. Also attach
the sheathed neutral wire to the neutral/grounding lug.
Note: Refer to the manufacturer specifications for all panel and

meter connections. All terminals must be torqued to specifications.
16
Attach the SE wires to the lugs connected to the main breakers at the top
of your service entry panel. Do not remove too much insulation on the wires
—leaving the wires exposed is a safety hazard. The neutral service entry
wire is attached either directly to the neutral terminal bar or to a metal
bridge that is connected to the neutral bonding terminal bar. Install the green
grounding screw provided with the panel.
17
Install service entrance wires from the meter to the weatherhead, where
the connections to the service drop wires are made. Only an agent for your
public utility company may make the hookup at the weatherhead.
TALL MAST, SHORT ROOF
The service drop must occur at least 10 ft. above ground
level, and as much as 14 ft. in some cases. Occasionally, this
means that you must run the conduit for the service mast up
through the eave of your roof and seal the roof penetration
with a boot.
Service drop Boot minimum 18
inches from the bottom of the drip
loop Weatherhead Mast (conduit)
18
Have the panel and all connections inspected and approved by your local
building department, and then contact the public utility company to make
the connections at the power drop. Once you have restored power to the new
service panel, test out each circuit to make sure you don’t have any
surprises. With the main breakers on, shut off all individual circuit breakers,
and then flip each one on by itself. Walk through your house and test every
switch and receptacle to confirm the loads on that circuit.
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Grounding & Bonding a Wiring System
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer
Flat screwdriver
Drill
½" drill bit
A length of ground wire
Wire staples
3 pipe ground clamps
Eye and ear protection
Work gloves
Grounding rods
5-lb. maul
Caulk
A ll home electrical systems must be bonded and

grounded according to code standards. This entails two
tasks: the metal water and gas pipes must be connected
electrically to create a continuous low resistance path
back to the main electrical panel; and the main electrical
panel must be grounded to a grounding electrode such
as a ground rod or rods driven into the earth near the
foundation of your house. Although the piping system is
bonded to the ground through your main electrical
service panel, the panel grounding and the piping
bonding are unrelated when it comes to function. The
grounding wire that runs from your electrical panel to
grounding electrode helps even out voltage increases
that often occur because of lightning and other causes.
The wires that bond your metal piping are preventative,
and they only become important in the unlikely event
that an electrical conductor energizes the pipe. In that
case, correct bonding of the piping system will ensure
that the current does not remain in the system, where it
could shock anyone who touches a part of the system,
such as a faucet handle. Bonding is done relatively
efficiently at the water heater, as the gas piping and
water piping are typically located there.
Gas pipe in older homes is usually steel or copper.
The bonding connection point for these pipes can be at
any accessible location, such as at the water heater or at
the gas meter. Gas pipe in some new homes is a flexible
material called corrugated stainless-steel tubing (CSST).
Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for bonding the
CSST.
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A pair of 8-ft.-long metal ground rods are driven into the earth next to your
house to provide a path to ground for your home wiring system.
How to Bond Metallic Piping
1
Determine the amperage rating of your electrical service by looking at

your main breakers. (If you have an older system and are unsure about its
amperage rating, consult an electrician.) The system amperage (usually 100
or 200 amps) determines the required gauge of the bonding wire you need.
#6 copper wire is often sufficient for service not exceeding 200 amps.
Always confirm the correct gauge with the local electrical inspector.
2
Run the bonding wire from a point near your water heater to an exit point
where the wire can be bonded to the grounding wire that leads to the exterior
grounding electrodes. This is frequently done at the service panel. Run this
wire as you would any other cable, leaving approximately 6 to 8 ft. of wire
at the water heater. If you are running this wire through the ceiling joists,
drill a ½" hole as close to the center as possible to not weaken the joist.
Staple the wire every 2 ft. if running it parallel to the joists.
3
Install pipe ground clamps on each pipe (hot water supply, cold water
supply, gas), roughly 1 foot above the water heater. Do not install clamps
near a union or elbow because the tightening of the clamps could break or
weaken soldered joints. Also make sure the pipes are free and clear of any
paint, rust, or any other contaminant that may inhibit a good clean
connection. Do not overtighten the clamps. Use clamps that are compatible
with the pipe so that corrosion will not occur. Use copper or brass clamps on
copper pipe. Use brass or steel clamps on steel pipe.
Route the ground wire through each clamp wire hole and then tighten the
clamps onto the wire. Do not cut or splice the wire: the same wire should
run through all clamps.
5
At the panel, turn off the main breaker. Open the cover by removing the
screws, and set the cover aside. Route the ground wire through a small ⅜"
hole provided toward the rear of the panel on the top or bottom. You will
usually have to knock the plug out of this hole by placing a screwdriver on it
from the outside and tapping with a hammer. Make sure the ground wire will
not come into contact with the terminal bars in the middle of the panel or
any of the load terminals on the breakers.
6
Locate an open hole on your ground and neutral terminal and insert the
ground wire. These holes are large enough to accommodate up to a #4 awg
wire, but it may be difficult at times. If you’re having trouble pushing the
wire in, trim a little wire off the end and try with a clean cut piece. Secure
the set screw at the lug. Replace the panel cover and turn the main breaker
back on.
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Tips for Grounding Service Panels

Neutral bus Neutral bus Cabinet
ground screw isolated from
neutral bus Grounding bus
In a subpanel, the grounding terminal should be bonded to the subpanel

cabinet. The neutral terminal should not be bonded to the subpanel cabinet.
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Metallic conduit must be physically and electrically connected to panel

cabinets. A bonding bushing may be required in some cases, where not all of
a knockout is removed.
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Ground Rod Installation
TOOLS & MATERIALS
⅝" × 8' ground rods

Drill ¼
/16"
5
drill bit Ladder
5-pound maul
Copper ground wire (size as required by local code)
Screwdriver
(2) brass (acorn) clamp
Pliers
Wire cutters
Caulk
T he ground rod is an essential part of the grounding
system. Its primary function is to create a path to
ground for electrical current, such as lightning, line
surges, and unintentional contact with high voltage
lines. If you upgrade your electrical service, you likely
will need to upgrade your grounding wire and rods to
meet current code.
Call before you dig! Make sure the area where you
will be installing the ground rods is free and clear from
any underground utilities.
NOTE: Different municipalities have different requirements for

grounding, so be sure to check with the AHJ (Authority Having
Jurisdiction) first before attempting to do this yourself.
How to Install a Grounding Electrode System
1
Begin by purchasing two copper-coated steel ground rods ⅝" diameter

by 8" long. Grounding rods have a driving point on one end and a striking
face on the other end.
2
Drill a 5/16” hole in the rim joist of your house, as close as practical to the
main service panel to the outside of the house above the ground level at least
6".
3
About 1 foot from the foundation of the house, pound one ground rod into
the earth with a 5-lb. maul. If you encounter a rock or other obstruction, you
can pound the ground rod at an angle as long as it does not exceed 45°.
Drive until only 3" or 4" of the rod is above ground. Measure at least 6 ft.
from the first ground rod and pound in another one.
4
Run uninsulated copper ground wire from the ground bus in your main
service panel through the hole in the rim joist and to the exterior of the
house, leaving enough wire to connect the two ground rods together.
5
Using a brass clamp commonly referred to as an acorn, connect the wire to

the first ground rod, pulling the wire taut so no slack exists. Continue
pulling the wire to reach the second grounding rod, creating a continuous
connection.
6
Connect the second ground rod with another acorn to the uncut grounding
wire previously pulled through the first acorn. Trim the excess wire.
7
Dig out a few inches around each rod to create clearance for the 5-lb. maul.
Creating a shallow trench beneath the grounding wire between the rods is
also a good idea. Drive each rod with the maul until the top of the rod is a
few inches below grade.
8
Inject caulk into the hole in the rim joist on both the interior and exterior
side.
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Tips for Grounding & Bonding

Intersystem bonding terminal
Use an intersystem bonding terminal to ground nonelectrical systems such

as telephone and cable.
Grounding electrode
A piece of reinforcing bar encased in a concrete footing is a common

grounding electrode in new construction. Called an ufer, the electrode must
be No. 4 or larger rebar and at least 20 ft. long. (Shown prior to pouring
concrete.)
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Subpanels
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer
Screwdriver
Voltage tester
Cable ripper
Combination tool
Screws
Cable clamps
Three-wire NM cable
Cable staples
Double-pole circuit breaker
Circuit breaker subpanel
Slimline circuit breakers
I nstall circuit breaker subpanels if the main circuit

breaker panel does not have enough open breaker slots
for the new circuits you are planning. Subpanels serve
as additional distribution centers for connecting circuits.
They receive power from a double-pole circuit breaker
you install in the main circuit breaker panel.
If the main service panel is so full that there is no
room for the double-pole subpanel breaker, you can
reconnect some of the existing 120-volt circuits to
special slimline breakers (see photo at right). You may
be required to install AFCI breakers for the new circuits.
AFCI breakers are full size breakers. Be sure to plan for
this when estimating the space left in your existing main
service panel and all subpanels.
Plan your subpanel installation carefully, making
sure your electrical service supplies enough power to
support the extra load of the new subpanel circuits.
Assuming your main service is adequate, consider
installing a subpanel that’s a little larger than you need
to provide enough extra amps to meet the needs of
future wiring projects.
Also consider the physical size and the current rating
of the subpanel, and choose one that has enough extra
slots and current capacity to hold circuits you may want
to install later. The smallest panels have room for up to
six single-pole breakers (or three double-pole breakers),
while the largest models can hold 20 single-pole
breakers or more.
Subpanels often are mounted near the main circuit
breaker panel. Or, for convenience, they can be installed
close to the areas they serve, such as in a new room
addition. In a finished room, a subpanel can be painted
or housed in a decorative cabinet so it is less of a visual
distraction—just make sure it’s accessible.
Before Slimline breakers replace single-pole
breakers After
To conserve space in a service panel, you may be able to replace existing
single-pole breakers with slimline breakers. Slimline breakers take up half the
space of standard breakers, allowing you to fit two circuits into one single slot
on the service panel. In the service panel shown above, four single-pole 120-
volt breakers were replaced with slimline breakers to provide the double
opening needed for a 30-amp, 240-volt subpanel feeder breaker. Use slimline
breakers (if your municipality allows them) with the same amp rating as the
standard single-pole breakers you are removing, and make sure they are
approved for use in your panel. If your municipality and panel allow slimline
breakers, there may be restrictions on the quantity and location where they may
be installed on the panel.
Service panel in main building Subpanel in detached
building Neutral Hot Hot Ground Neutral terminal bar
Grounding terminal bar Neutral terminal bar
Grounding terminal bar Jumpers Neutral Electrode
Electrode
Wiring diagram for wiring a feeder from the main service panel to a subpanel
in a separate building.
How to Install a Subpanel
Subpanels are subject to the same installation and clearance rules

as service panels. The subpanel can be mounted to the sides of
studs or to plywood attached between two studs. The panel
shown here extends ½" past the face of studs so it will be flush
with the finished wall surface. Follow the manufacturer’s
installation specifications.
images
Open a knockout in the subpanel using a screwdriver and hammer. Run

the feeder cable from the main circuit breaker panel to the subpanel, leaving
about 2 ft. of excess cable at each end. See here if you need to run the cable
through finished walls.
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Attach a cable clamp to the knockout in the subpanel. Insert the cable into
the subpanel, and then anchor it to framing members within 8" of each panel
and every 54" thereafter.
4
Strip away outer sheathing from the feeder cable using a cable ripper.
Leave at least ¼" of sheathing extending into the subpanel. Tighten the cable
clamp screws so the cable is held securely, but not so tightly that the wire
sheathing is crushed.
5 Main lug
Neutral terminal
bar Grounding
terminal bar
Strip ½" of insulation from the white neutral feeder wire, and attach it to
the main lug on the subpanel neutral terminal bar. Connect the grounding
wire to a setscrew terminal on the grounding terminal bar. Fold excess wire
around the inside edge of the subpanel.
6 Lug Hot bus
bars Lug
Strip away ½" of insulation from the red and the black feeder wires.
Attach one wire to the main lug on each of the hot terminal bars. Fold excess
wire around the inside edge of the subpanel.
7 Slimline breakers
At the main circuit breaker panel, shut off the main circuit breaker, and
then remove the coverplate and test for power (here). If necessary, make
room for the double-pole feeder breaker by removing single-pole breakers
and reconnecting the wires to slimline circuit breakers. Open a knockout for
the feeder cable using a hammer and screwdriver.
NOTE: Some panels do not allow slimline breakers and some
restrict where slimline breakers can be installed. Read the
instructions on the panel cover.
8
Strip away the outer sheathing from the feeder cable so that at least ¼" of
sheathing will reach into the main service panel. Attach a cable clamp to the
cable, and then insert the cable into the knockout, and anchor it by threading
a locknut onto the clamp. Tighten the locknut by driving a screwdriver
against the lugs. Tighten the clamp screws so the cable is held securely, but
not so tightly that the cable sheathing is crushed.
9 Grounding terminal bar
Bend the bare copper wire from the feeder cable around the inside edge of
the main circuit breaker panel, and connect it to one of the setscrew
terminals on the grounding terminal bar.
10 Neutral terminal bar
Strip away ½" of insulation from the white feeder wire. Attach the wire to
one of the setscrew terminals on the neutral terminal bar. Fold excess wire
around the inside edge of the service panel.
11
Strip ½" of insulation from the red and the black feeder wires. Attach one
wire to each of the setscrew terminals on the double-pole feeder breaker.
NOTE: If your subpanel arrived with a preinstalled grounding

screw in the panel back, remove and discard it.
12 Guide hook pivot
Hook the end of the feeder circuit breaker over the guide hooks on the
panel, and then push the other end forward until the breaker snaps onto the
hot terminal bars (follow manufacturer’s directions). Fold excess wire
around the inside edge of the circuit breaker panel.
13
If necessary, remove two tabs from the cover plate where the double-pole
feeder breaker will fit, and then reattach the cover plate. Label the feeder
breaker on the circuit index. Turn the main breaker on, but leave the feeder
breaker off until all subpanel circuits have been connected and inspected.
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120/240-Volt Dryer Receptacles
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Combination tool
Drill
Circuit tester
Hammer
Screwdriver
30-amp double-pole GFCI breaker
30-amp 120/240-volt dryer receptacle
Receptacle box
10/3 NM cable or 10-gauge THHN/THWN
Conduit (for masonry walls)
M ost electric dryers require both 120- and 240-volt

power. If you are installing this type of electric dryer,
you will need to install a 30-amp, 120/240-volt
receptacle that feeds from a dedicated 30-amp double-
pole GFCI breaker in your service panel. Verify your
dryer’s electrical requirements before wiring a new
receptacle.
Begin the installation by identifying a location for
the dryer receptacle. Run 10/3 NM cable from the panel
to the new receptacle. If you are mounting the dryer
receptacle box on an unfinished masonry wall, run
THNN wire in conduit and secure the box and conduit
with straps and masonry screws. If you are mounting the
receptacle box in a finished wall, cut a hole, fish the
cable through, and mount the receptacle in the wall
opening.
¾" conduit to circuit breaker panel 4"
× 4" metal box 12-gauge wires for a
120-volt circuit 30-amp, 120/240-volt
receptacle for dryer Conduit raceway
shown is used for 120/240V dryer
receptacle and 120V wall receptacle.
10-gauge wires (green, black, white,
red)
With a 120/240-volt installation, the dryer circuit’s double-pole breaker

contacts both 120-volt hot bus bars in the service panel.
How to Install a 120/240-Volt Dryer Receptacle
1
Connect the white neutral wire to the silver neutral screw terminal.
Connect each of the black and the red wires to either of the brass screw
terminals (the terminals are interchangeable). Connect the green ground wire
to the receptacle grounding screw. Attach the cover plate.
With the panel main breaker shut off, connect the dryer cable to a
dedicated 30-amp double-pole GFCI breaker. Connect the ground wire to
the panel grounding terminal bar. Connect the white neutral wire to the
neutral bar. Connect the red and the black wires to the two brass screw
terminals on the breaker. Connect the coiled white wire to the neutral
terminal bar. Snap the breaker into the bus bar. Attach the panel cover.
Restore power to the panel, and test the GFCI breaker and dryer receptacle.
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120/240-Volt Range Receptacles
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Combination tool
Voltage tester
Screwdriver
Drywall saw
Fish tape
Range receptacle
6/3 grounded NM cable
40- or 50-amp double-pole circuit breaker
M any electric ranges require both 120- and 240-

volt power and use a 40- or 50-amp 120/240-volt
receptacle that feeds from a dedicated 40- or 50-amp
breaker in the panel. Breaker amperage depends on the
amount of current the range draws. Verify requirements
before wiring a receptacle.
A range receptacle and breaker installation is no
more complicated than wiring a single-pole breaker and
outlet. The main difference is that the range circuit’s
double-pole breaker is designed to contact both 120-volt
bus bars in the service panel. Together these two 120-
volt circuits serve the range’s heating elements with 240
volts of power. The range’s electronics utilize the
circuit’s 120-volt power.
Modern range receptacles accept a four-prong plug.
A four-conductor cable, containing three insulated wires
and one ground, is required. The two hot wires might be
black and red (shown below) or black and black with a
red stripe. The neutral wire is generally white or gray.
The grounding wire is green or bare. The size used for a
kitchen range is usually 6/3 grounded NM aluminum or
copper cable. The receptacle itself is generally surface
mounted (shown below), though flush-mounted units
are also available.
Note: If the range receptacle is within 6 feet of a sink, the circuit may
need to be GFCI protected. Check the local building department for
requirements.
How to Install a Kitchen Range Receptacle
1
Turn power off. Identify a location for the surface-mounted range

receptacle. Cut a small hole in the wall. Fish the cable from the service panel
into the wall opening. Thread the cable into a surface-mounted receptacle
and clamp it. Strip insulation from the individual wires.
2
Wire the receptacle. Connect the bare copper ground wire to the receptacle
grounding screw. Connect the white neutral wire to the silver neutral screw
terminal. Connect each of the hot (black and red) wires to either of the brass
screw terminals (the terminals are interchangeable). Mount the housing on
the wall and attach the cover plate.
3
Wire the cable to a 40- or 50-amp breaker. With the main breaker off,
remove the panel cover. Remove a knockout from the panel and feed the
cable into the panel. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal bar.
Connect the neutral wire from the cable to the neutral terminal bar. Connect
the red and the black wires to the two brass screw terminals on the breaker.
Snap it into the bus bar. Attach the panel cover. Turn the breakers on and test
the circuit.
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Dryer and Range Cords
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Screwdrivers
Nut driver (as needed)
Ground strap (as needed)
UL-listed dryer or range appliance cord
Strain-relief fitting
E lectric dryers and ranges typically are sold without

power cords. This can be vexing for consumers,
especially if their appliance dealer fails to advise them
to buy a new cord before they leave the store. But this
quirk exists for a very good reason. In 1996, the NEC
began requiring that newly installed dryer and range
receptacles must be designed for four-wire power cords.
Prior to this change, most homes were built with
receptacles for three-wire cords.
The code change continued trickling down to the
local level well into the 2000s, and since dryers and
ranges can easily last for 20 or 30 years, there are a lot
of older appliances and receptacles out there with 3-wire
configuration. Fortunately, the NEC allows homeowners
to use existing three-wire receptacles. And that’s why
appliance manufacturers leave it up to the consumer to
get the right cord for their home’s dryer or range
receptacle.
Installing a cord on a new appliance, or swapping out

the cord on an older appliance, is a very easy job that
takes just a few minutes. The important thing is to
properly configure the appliance for a 3-wire or 4-wire
cord, as needed. On the back of the dryer or range, there
is a terminal block with three terminals: one neutral and
two hots. There is also a ground screw that grounds the
metal case of the appliance. A 4-wire, or 4-prong, cord
has two hot wires, a neutral, and a separate ground wire.
A 3-wire, or 3-prong, cord has two hots and a neutral—
with no ground wire; it uses the neutral as a ground.
With a 4-wire configuration, the ground screw is
isolated from the neutral terminal so that the ground and
neutral are separate. With a 3-wire configuration, the
ground screw is connected to the neutral with a metal
ground strap. Some appliances have a small wire
(usually with white insulation) that connects to the
ground screw; this does the same thing as a metal strap.
Once the appliance configuration is correct for your
cord type, you simply connect each wire to its respective
terminal (here and here show these setups clearly).
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Cords for electric dryers and ranges are sold at appliance outlets and
hardware and home improvement stores. They come in standard 4- to 6-foot
lengths and usually include a strain-relief fitting for securing the cord to the
appliance. Make sure any cord you use carries the UL stamp or similar
certification to ensure that it meets industry safety standards.
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4-prong range cords have red and black hot wires, a white neutral wire, and a
green ground wire. The hot wires carry 120 volts each and are interchangeable.
These cords are typically rated for 50 amps and plug into a 4-slot NEMA 14-50
50-amp receptacle.
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4-prong dryer cords have red and black hot wires, a white neutral wire, and a
green ground wire. The hot wires carry 120 volts each and are interchangeable.
They are typically rated for 30 amps. Dryer receptacles are identifiable by their
L-shaped neutral slots.
images
3-prong dryer cords are flat and do not have color-coded wires. The center
wire is always neutral. The two outer wires are hot and carry 120 volts each;
they are interchangeable. There is no separate ground wire. These cords
typically are rated for 30 amps and must be used with matching 3-slot
receptacles.
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Strain-relief fittings are simple metal clamps that secure the cord to the
appliance and protect the cord sheathing from damage. Strain reliefs for 4-prong
cords (top) are rounded; strain reliefs for 3-prong cords (bottom) are flat.
Always use an appropriate strain relief for the cord shape.
1
Loosen the screws on the wiring compartment cover on the back of the dryer
or range, using a screwdriver or nut driver. Remove the cover and set it aside.
2
Remove each cord wire from its terminal on the terminal block (and ground
screw, as applicable), if you’re replacing an existing cord. Loosen the screws of
the strain-relief fitting and remove the fitting. Pull the cord out through the hole
in the back panel or bracket.
3
Configure the terminals for a 4-wire cord. Confirm that the ground screw is
isolated from the neutral (center) terminal on the terminal block. If there is a
metal strap between the ground and neutral, remove the strap from the neutral
(you can leave it attached under the ground screw). If there is a white or green
internal wire connected to the ground screw, move it to the neutral terminal; it
will make a harmless neutral connection.
4
Connect a 4-wire cord. Secure the white cord wire under the neutral (center)
terminal. Secure the black (hot) and red (hot) cord wires to the two outer
terminals, connecting only one wire to each terminal (the hot terminals and
wires are interchangeable). Connect the green ground wire to the ground screw.
Make sure all connections are very tight.
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VARIATION: Configure the terminals for a 3-wire cord. Confirm that

the ground screw is connected to the neutral (center) terminal on the
terminal block. Make this connection with a metal ground strap between the
ground screw and the neutral terminal. Alternatively, if there is a white or
green wire extending from inside the appliance, make sure it is secured
under the ground screw.
Note: If the dryer does not have a ground strap or wire, you can buy
a new ground strap that is compatible with the dryer model.
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VARIATION: Connect a 3-wire cord. Secure the center (neutral) cord

wire under the neutral (center) terminal. Secure each of the outer cord wires
to one of the outer (hot) terminals, connecting only one wire to each
terminal (the hot terminals and wires are interchangeable). Make sure all
connections are very tight.
5
Install the strain relief by fitting the two halves together so they clamp onto
the cord. Tighten the clamp screws so the cord is held securely but the clamp is
not so tight that the cord is deformed.
6
Reposition the wiring compartment cover and secure its screws. The dryer or
range is ready for use.
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Adding an Outdoor Receptacle
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdrivers
3-foot length of 2-wire NM cable
Weatherproof exterior receptacle box with cover
Cable clamp
Corrosion-resistant screws
Exterior caulk
Drill driver
Long ¼-inch drill bit
1-inch spade bit
Fish tape (as needed)
Wire strippers
Caulking gun
Wire connectors
O utdoor receptacles can be few and far between.

The NEC requires only one receptacle on the front and
back of the house, and while builders can go beyond the
code requirement and install a few more, many homes
have only the bare minimum. This leaves you with the
chore and inconvenience of rolling out long extension
cords to reach holiday lights, corded lawn tools, or
outdoor equipment.
But adding a receptacle to an exterior wall can be a
surprisingly simple job. Since the interior sides of many
house walls have a receptacle every 12 feet, at the most,
there are plenty of places to tap into a receptacle circuit
to power an outdoor receptacle. The easiest way to do
this is to go straight out from the indoor box, extending
the circuit to an outdoor box with a short length of NM
cable.
Outdoor receptacles can be 15-amp or 20-amp, so
most indoor receptacle circuits in living areas are
suitable, provided the added receptacle doesn’t overload
the circuit. You cannot tap into a kitchen, bathroom, or
laundry room receptacle circuit. Make sure the new
receptacle has the correct amperage rating for the
circuit; do not install a 20-amp receptacle on a 15-amp
circuit.
Also make sure the new receptacle is GFCI
protected, which is required for all outdoor receptacles.
You can accomplish this by simply using a GFCI
receptacle on the outdoor side. This will provide GFCI
protection even if the circuit or indoor receptacle are not
GFCI protected. The receptacle must be weather-
resistant type (indicated by “WR” stamped on the
receptacle’s face) as well as tamper-resistant (indicated
by a “TR” stamp).
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Interior receptacles in ground-floor living areas typically are about 12 inches

above the floor—a convenient height for adding a receptacle on the exterior side
of the wall.
The outdoor electrical box can be recessed or
surface-mounted, depending on the box type. Surface-
mounting requires a hole only for the new cable and
clamp. This can greatly simplify the job when you’re
working with brick or stone siding. A recessed box
installs flush to the wall and needs a hole cut out for the
entire box. Recessing the box also means you can’t go
directly opposite the indoor box, since the wall cavity
usually is not deep enough to accommodate two boxes
back to back. The solution is to offset the boxes while
staying within the same stud cavity.
Finally, the outdoor box needs a cover that’s suitable
for the location. Boxes that are protected from direct
exposure to snow and rain, such as from a porch or patio
roof, can have a cover rated for damp locations. Boxes
that are exposed to moisture must have an “in-use”
cover rated for wet locations.
1
Shut off the power to the interior receptacle circuit. Remove the receptacle’s
cover plate and test each receptacle terminal and all wires in the box to confirm
the power is off, using a noncontact voltage tester. Disconnect the wires and
remove the receptacle.
Note: If the electrical box is small, this is a good time to replace it with
a larger, old work retrofit box (see here to here).
2
Drill through a cable access hole in the box, using a long ¼-inch drill bit,
drilling through the wall cavity and the sheathing and siding on the exterior side
of the wall. Angle the drill bit as desired, based on where you want to install the
exterior receptacle box.
3
Enlarge the hole on the exterior side of the wall, using a 1-inch spade bit (or
as needed), drilling through the siding and sheathing to make room for the cable
clamp.
Variation: To install a recessed box, trace the outline of the box body
onto the wall, drill a ⅜-inch hole at each corner of the outline, then cut
along the outline with a jigsaw (see here).
4
Cut a 2-foot length of 2-wire NM cable; this must have the same wire gauge
as the cable of the receptacle circuit. Feed the cable through the hole in the
interior box and out through the exterior hole. If necessary, use a fish tape to
pull the cable through (see here).
5
Secure the cable to the exterior receptacle box with a cable clamp, leaving
about 6 inches of cable extending from the front of the box.
6
Mount the exterior box to the wall siding, using corrosion-resistant screws. If
necessary, drill pilot holes for the screws to prevent splitting the siding.
Note: If the receptacle box is metal, connect two grounding pigtails to
the ground wire in the cable, using wire connectors. Connect one of the
pigtails to the ground screw on the metal box.
7
Remove all but ½ inch of sheathing from the cable inside the box. Strip ¾
inch of insulation from each wire, using wire strippers. Connect the black (hot)
wire to the HOT LINE (brass) terminal of the GFCI receptacle. Connect the
white (neutral) wire to the WHITE LINE (silver) terminal and connect the
ground wire to the receptacle’s ground screw. Tuck the wires into the box and
mount the receptacle to the box with the provided screws.
Install the box cover onto the front of the exterior box, following the cover
9
Apply a neat bead of exterior caulk along the entire perimeter of the exterior
box, creating a watertight seal between the box and the siding. If desired, paint
the caulk and box body (not the cover) to match the wall after the caulk cures
completely.
10
Cut a 6-inch length from the leftover NM cable. Remove the cable sheathing
and strip both ends of the insulated wires to create pigtails (see here). Trim the
NM cable so it extends about 6 inches beyond the front of the interior box and
remove all but ½ inch of the cable sheathing. Connect the pigtails and original
circuit wires to the wires of the new cable, using wire connectors.
11
Connect the pigtail wires to the interior receptacle: black (hot) wire to the
brass screw terminal, white (neutral) wire to the silver terminal, ground wire to
the ground screw. Tuck the wires into the box and mount the receptacle to the
box with the original screws.
12
Reinstall the cover plate on the interior receptacle. Restore power to the
circuit and test the GFCI for proper operations, following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
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Ceiling Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Replacement light fixture

Wire stripper
Voltage tester
Insulated screwdrivers
Wire connectors
Eye protection
C eiling fixtures don’t have any moving parts, and

their wiring is very simple, so, other than changing
bulbs, you’re likely to get decades of trouble-free
service from a fixture. This sounds like a good thing, but
it also means that the fixture probably won’t fail and
give you an excuse to update a room’s look with a new
one. Fortunately you don’t need an excuse. Upgrading a
fixture is easy and can make a dramatic impact on a
room. You can substantially increase the light in a room
by replacing a globe-style fixture with one with separate
spot lights, or you can simply install a new fixture that
matches the room’s décor. Check the weight rating of
the box to which you will attach your fixture. Older
boxes may not handle a heavy fixture. If you are unsure
how much weight the existing box can handle, consider
changing the box. New light fixture boxes should handle
fixtures up to 50 pounds. Support the fixture
independently from the box if the fixture weighs more
than 50 pounds.
images
Installing a new ceiling fixture can provide more light to a space, not to
mention an aesthetic lift. It’s one of the easiest upgrades you can do.
Electrical
box Metal
braces
Neutral
wire
Grounding
No matter what a ceiling light fixture looks like on the outside, they all
attach in basically the same way. An electrical box in the ceiling is fitted with a
mounting strap, which holds the fixture in place. The bare wire from the ceiling
typically connects to the mounting strap. The two wires coming from the fixture
connect to the black and the white wires from the ceiling.
Shown cutaway Brace Wallboard Joist
If the new fixture is much heavier than the original fixture, it will require
additional bracing in the ceiling to support the electrical box and the fixture.
The manufacturer’s instructions should specify the size and type of box. If the
ceiling is finished and there is no access from above, you can remove the old
box and use an adjustable remodeling brace appropriate for your fixture
(shown). The brace fits into a small hole in the ceiling (inset). Once the bracing
is in place, install a new electrical box specified for the new fixture.
images
Inexpensive light fixtures have screw terminals mounted directly to the

backside of the fixture plate. Often, as seen here, they have no grounding
terminal. Some codes do not allow this type of fixture, but even if your
hometown does approve them, it is a good idea to replace them with a better
quality, safer fixture that is UL approved.
How to Replace a Ceiling Light
1
Shut off power to the ceiling light, and remove the shade or diffuser.
Loosen the mounting screws and carefully lower the fixture, supporting it as
you work (do not let light fixtures hang by their electrical wires). Use a
voltage tester to make sure no power is reaching the connections.
2
Remove the twist connectors from the fixture wires or unscrew the screw
terminals and remove the white neutral wire and the black lead wire (inset).
3
Before you install the new fixture, check the ends of the wires coming
from the ceiling electrical box. They should be clean and free of nicks or
scorch marks. If they’re dirty or worn, clip off the stripped portion with your
combination tool. Then strip away about ¾" of insulation from the end of
each wire.
4
Attach a mounting strap to the ceiling fixture box if there is not one
already present. Your new light may come equipped with a strap; otherwise
you can find one for purchase at any hardware store.
5
Lift the new fixture up to the ceiling (you may want a helper for this), and
attach the bare copper ground wire from the power supply cable to the
grounding screw or clip on the mounting strap. Also attach the ground wire
from the fixture to the screw or clip.
6
With the fixture supported by a ladder or a helper, join the white wire
lead and the white fixture wire with a wire connector (often supplied with
the fixture).
7
Connect the black power supply wire to the black fixture wire with a wire
connector.
8
Position the new fixture mounting plate over the box so the mounting
screw holes align. Drive the screws until the fixture is secure against the
ceiling.
NOTE: Some fixtures are supported by a threaded rod or nipple in
the center that screws into a female threaded opening in the
mounting strap (inset).
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Recessed Ceiling Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Recessed-lighting can for new construction or remodeling and

trim
Chalk line
Voltage tester
Cable ripper
Combination tool
Pliers
Fish tape
Hack saw
Drywall saw
NM cable
Work gloves
Eye protection
R ecessed lights are versatile fixtures suited for a

variety of situations. Fixtures rated for outdoor use can
also be installed in roof soffits and overhangs for accent
and security lighting. Recessed fixtures can also be
installed over showers or tubs if they are properly rated
for damp or wet locations, as required by code.
There are recessed lighting cans in all shapes and
sizes for almost every type of ceiling or cabinet. Cans
are sold for unfinished ceilings (new construction) or for
finished ceilings (retrofit installation). Cans are also
rated as insulation compatible or for uninsulated
ceilings. Be sure to use the correct one for your ceiling
to prevent creating a fire hazard. The 2015 International
Residential Code requires that recessed lights installed
in unconditioned spaces (such as attics) be insulation
contact (IC) rated, air tight, and sealed to the drywall.
Rating symbol Rating symbol
Choose the proper type of recessed light fixture for your project. There are
two types of fixtures: those rated for installation within insulation (top), and
those which must be kept at least 3" from insulation (bottom). Self-contained
thermal switches shut off power if the unit gets too hot for its rating. A recessed
light fixture must be installed at least ½" from combustible materials.
images
Recessed ceiling lights often are installed in series to provide exacting control
over the amount and direction of light. Spacing the canisters in every other
ceiling joist bay is a common practice.
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Recessed Materials
ABCDEF
Recessed ceiling light housings come in many sizes and styles for various
purposes and budgets. Some are sold with trim kits (below) included. Some
common types are new construction recessed housing (sold in economical
multipacks) (A); airtight recessed housings (for heated rooms below unheated
ceilings) (B); shallow recessed housings (for rooms with 2 × 6 ceiling joists)
(C); small-aperture recessed housing (D); recessed slope ceiling housing (for
vaulted ceilings) (E).
ABCDEF
Trim kits for recessed ceiling lights may be sold separately. Common types
include open trim with reflective baffle (A); eyeball trim (B); baffle trim (black)
(C); shower light trim (D); open trim (E); baffle trim (full reflective) (F).
How to Install Recessed Ceiling Lights
1
Mark the location for the light canister. If you are installing multiple
lights, measure out from the wall at the start and end of the run, and connect
them with a chalkline snapped parallel to the wall. If the ceiling is finished
with a surface (drywall or plaster), see next page.
2
Install the housing for the recessed fixture. Housings for new construction
(or remodeling installations where the installation area is fully accessible
from either above or below) have integral hanger bars that you attach to each
joist of the joist bay.
3
Run electric cable from the switch to each canister location. Multiple lights
are generally installed in series so there is no need to make pigtail
connections in the individual boxes. Make sure to leave enough extra cable
at each location to feed the wire into the housing and make the connection.
4
Run the cables into the electrical boxes attached to the canister housings.
You’ll need to remove knockouts first and make sure to secure the cable
with a wire staple within 8" of the entry point to the box.
5
Connect the circuit wires to the fixture wires inside the junction box. Twist
the hot circuit wire together with the black fixture wire, as well as the hot
circuit wire running to other fixtures further downline. Also connect the
neutral white wires. Join the ground wires and pigtail them to the grounding
screw or clip in the box. Finish the ceiling, as desired.
6
Attach your trim kit of choice. Normally these are hung with torsion
spring clips from notches or hooks inside the canister. This should be done
after the ceiling is installed and finished for new construction projects. With
certain types of trim kits, such as eyeball trim, you’ll need to install the
lightbulb before the trim kit.
How to Connect a Recessed Fixture Can in a
Finished Ceiling
1
Make the hole for the can. Most fixtures will include a template for sizing
the hole. Fish 14/2 cable from the switch location to the hole. Pull about 16"
of cable out of the hole for making the connection.
2
Remove a knockout from the electrical box attached to the can. Thread the
cable into the box; secure it with a cable clamp. Remove sheathing and
insulation. Connect the black fixture wire to the black circuit wire, the white
fixture wire to the white circuit wire, and then connect the ground wire to
the grounding screw or grounding wire attached to the box.
3
Retrofit cans secure themselves in the hole with spring-loaded clips. Install
the can in the ceiling by depressing the mounting clips so the can will fit
into the hole. Insert the can so that its edge is tight to the ceiling. Push the
mounting clips back out so they grip the drywall and hold the fixture in
place. Install the trim piece.
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Track Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Drill/driver and bits

Wire stripper
Screwdriver
Voltage tester
Toggle bolts
Track light heads
Prewired track and fittings
Wire connector
Ceiling box
Eye protection
T rack lighting offers a beautiful and functional way

to increase the amount of light in a room or simply to
update its look. A variety of fixture and lamp options let
you control the shape, color, and intensity of the light.
Installing track lighting in place of an existing ceiling-
mounted light fixture involves basic wiring and hand-
tool skills, but the connections are even easier to make
than with traditional light fixtures. Once installed, the
system is very easy to upgrade or expand in the future.
images
If you currently have a ceiling-mounted light fixture that is not meeting your
lighting needs, it’s simple to replace it with a track-lighting fixture. With track
lighting you can easily change the type and number of lights, their position on
the track, and the direction they aim. These fixtures come in many different
styles, including short 3-ft. track systems with just one or two lights up to 12-ft.
systems with five or more lights.
How to Install Track Lighting
1
Shut off power to the circuit at the service panel. Remove the fixture globe
and lightbulbs, then remove the fixture mounting screws. Carefully pull the
fixture away from the ceiling without touching any wires.
2
Test the fixture wires with a voltage tester to make sure the circuit is dead.
Support the fixture from below while you work—never allow a light fixture
to hang by its electrical wires alone. Remove the wire connectors and pull
the wires apart. Remove the old light fixture.
3
Attach the mounting strap for the new track light to the old ceiling box. If
the mounting strap has a hole in the center, thread the circuit wires through
the hole before screwing the strap to the box. The green or bare copper
ground from the circuit should be attached to the grounding screw or clip on
the strap or box.
4
Cut the track section to length, if necessary, using a hacksaw. Deburr the
cut end with a metal file. If you are installing multiple sections of track,
assemble the sections with the correct connector fittings (sold separately
from your kit). You can also purchase T-fittings or L-fittings (inset photo) if
you wish to install tracks in either of these configurations.
5
Position the track section in the mounting saddle on the mounting strap
and hold it temporarily in place in the location where it will be installed. The
track section will have predrilled mounting holes in the back. Draw a
marking point on the ceiling at each of these locations. If your track does not
have predrilled mounting holes, remove it and drill a 3/16” hole in the back
every 16".
6
Insert the bolt from a toggle bolt or molly bolt into each predrilled screw
location and twist the toggle or molly back onto the free end. These types of
hardware have greater holding power than anchor sleeves. Drill a ⅝"-
diameter access hole in the ceiling at each of the mounting hole locations
you marked on the ceiling in step 5.
7
Insert the toggle or molly into the access hole far enough so it clears the
top of the hole and the wings snap outward. Then tighten each bolt so the
track is snug against the ceiling. If the mounting hole happens to fall over a
ceiling joist, simply drive a drywall screw at that hole location.
8
Hook up wires from the track’s power supply fitting to the circuit wires.
Connect black to black and white to white. The grounding wire from the
power supply fitting can either be pigtailed to the circuit ground wire and
connected to the grounding screw or clip, or it can be twisted together with
the circuit grounding wire at the grounding terminal. Snap the fitting into the
track if you have not already done so.
9
Attach the protective cover that came with your kit to conceal the ceiling
box and the electrical connections. Some covers simply snap in place; others
require a mounting screw.
10 Dead end
Insert the light heads into the track by slipping the stem into the track slot
and then twisting it so the electrical contact points on the head press against
the electrified inner rails of the track slot. Tug lightly on the head to make
sure it is secure before releasing it.
11
Cap the open ends of the track with a dead end cap fitting. These also may
require a mounting screw. Leaving track ends open is a safety violation.
12
Arrange the track light heads so their light falls in the manner you choose,
and then depress the locking tab on each fixture to secure it in position.
Restore power and test the lights.
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Undercabinet Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Voltage tester
Utility knife
Drywall saw
Hammer
Screwdriver
Drill and hole saw
Jigsaw
Wire stripper
Undercabinet lighting kit
14/2 NM cable
Wire connectors
Switch box
Switch
Eye protection
Hardboard panel adhesive
ardwired undercabinet lights illuminate the kitchen
H countertop and sink areas that fall in the shadow

of ceiling lights. Most of these light fixtures,
which are often called strip lights, utilize LED or
fluorescent bulbs that are more energy efficient.
If you are doing a kitchen remodel with all-new
cabinets, run the new light circuit wiring before the
cabinets are installed. For a retrofit, you’ll need to find
an available power source to tie into. Options for this do
not include the dedicated 20-amp small-appliance
receptacle circuits that are required in kitchens. The best
bet is to run new circuit wire from a close-by ceiling
light switch box, but this will mean cutting into the
walls to run cable. Another option is to locate a
receptacle that’s on the opposite side of a shared wall,
preferably next to a location where a base cabinet is
installed in the kitchen. This room should not be a
breakfast room, dining, room, pantry, or similar area,
because these rooms are also served by the small-
appliance receptacle circuits. By cutting an access hole
in the cabinet back, you can tie into the receptacle box
and run cable through the wall behind the cabinets, up to
the upper cabinet location, and out the wall to supply the
fixture that’s mounted to the underside of the upper
cabinet.
You can purchase undercabinet lights that are
controlled by a wall switch, but most products have an
integral on/off switch so you can control lights
individually.
Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to
install new receptacles, lights, or switches requires a
permit. The electrical inspector may require that you
install arc-fault protection on the entire circuit. Check
with the electrical inspector before starting such
projects.
images
Undercabinet lights provide directed task lighting that bring sinks and
countertop work surfaces out from the shadows. Hardwired lights may be
controlled either by a wall switch or an onboard on/off switch located on the
fixture.
NOTE: Do not supply power for lights from a small-appliance circuit.

How to Install a Hardwired Undercabinet Light
1 Circuit with extra capacity
Adjoining room, not a breakfast or
dining room, or pantry Kitchen Wall
shown cutaway
Look in the adjoining room for a usable power source in the form of a
receptacle that has a box located in the wall behind your base cabinets.
Unlike the small-appliance circuit with outlets in your backsplash area, these
typically are not dedicated circuits (which can’t be expanded). Make sure
that the receptacle’s circuit has enough capacity to support another load.
Shut the power to the receptacle off at the main panel and test for power.
2
Cut a hole in the base cabinet back panel to get access to the wall behind
it in roughly the area where you know the next-door receptacle to be. Use a
keyhole saw or drywall saw and make very shallow cuts until you have
positively identified the locations of the electrical box and cables. Then
finish the cuts with a jigsaw.
3
Drill an access hole into the kitchen wall for the cable that will feed the
undercabinet light. A ½"-diameter hole should be about the right size if you
are using 12-ga. or 14-ga. sheathed NM cable.
4
Cut a small access hole (4" × 4" or so) in the back panel of the base cabinet
directly below the undercabinet light location.
5
Feed cable into the access hole at the light location until the end reaches the
access hole below. Don’t cut the cable yet. Reach into the access hole and feel
around for the free cable end, and then pull it out through the access hole once
you’ve found it. Cut the cable, making sure to leave plenty of extra on both
ends.
6
Feed the cable into a piece of flexible conduit that’s long enough to reach
between the two access holes in the base cabinets. Attach a connector to each
end of the conduit to protect the cable sheathing from the sharp edges of the cut
metal.
TIP: To make patching the cabinet back easier, drill a new access hole
for the cable near the square access hole.
7
Hang the conduit with hanger straps attached to the base cabinet frame or
back panel, drilling holes in the side walls of the cabinet where necessary to
thread the conduit through. On back panels, use small screws to hang the straps
instead of brads or nails. Support the conduit near both the entrance and the exit
holes (the conduit should extend past the back panels by a couple of inches).
Protect cable in notch by installing
nail plates, as on page 209.
VARIATION: If you are installing more than one undercabinet light, run
cable down from each installation point as you did for the first light. Mount
an electrical junction box to the cabinet back near the receptacle providing
the power. Run the power cables from each light through flexible conduit
and make connections inside the junction box. Be sure to attach the junction
box cover once the connections are made.
8
Remove the receptacle from the box you are tying into and insert the new
circuit cable into one of the knockouts using a cable clamp. Check a wire
capacity chart (see here) to make sure the box is big enough for the new
conductors. Replace it with a larger box if necessary. Reinstall the receptacle
once the connections are made.
9
Install the undercabinet light. Some models have a removable diffuser that
allows access to the fixture wires, and these should be screwed to the upper
cabinet prior to making your wiring hookups. Other models need to be
connected to the circuit wires before installation. Check your manufacturer’s
instructions.
10
Connect wires inside the light fixture according to the light manufacturer’s
instructions. Make sure the incoming cable is stapled just before it enters the
light box and that a cable clamp is used at the knockout in the box to protect the
cable. Restore power and test the light.
11
Cut patches of hardboard and fit them over the access holes, overlapping the
edges of the cutouts. Attach the access panels to the cabinet backs with screws
or other removable fasteners.
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Vanity Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Drywall saw
Drill
Combination tool
Voltage tester
Screwdrivers
Hammer
Electrical boxes and braces
NM cable
Nail Plates
Vanity light fixtures
Wire connectors
Eye protection
M any bathrooms have a single fixture positioned

above the vanity, but a light source in this position casts
shadows on the face and makes grooming more
difficult. Light fixtures on either side of the mirror is a
better arrangement.
For a remodel, mark the mirror location, run cable,
and position boxes before drywall installation. You can
also retrofit by installing new boxes and drawing power
from the existing fixture.
The light sources should be at eye level; 66" is
typical. The size of your mirror and its location on the
wall may affect how far apart you can place the sconces,
but 36" to 40" apart is a good guideline.
permit. Check with the electrical inspector before
starting such projects.
images
Vanity lights on the sides of the mirror provide good lighting.

How to Replace Vanity Lights in a Finished
Bathroom
1
Turn off the power at the panel. Remove the old fixture from the wall, and
test to make sure that the power is off. Then remove a strip of drywall from
around the old fixture to the first studs beyond the approximate location of
the new fixtures. Make the opening large enough that you have room to
route cable from the existing fixture to the boxes.
2
Mark the locations for the fixtures, and install new boxes. Install the
boxes about 66" above the floor and 18" to 20" from the centerline of the
mirror (the mounting base of some fixtures is above or below the bulb, so
adjust the height of the bracing accordingly). If the correct location is on or
next to a stud, you can attach the box directly to the stud; otherwise you’ll
need to install blocking or use boxes with adjustable braces (shown).
Nail plates 3
Open the side knockouts on the electrical box above the vanity. Then drill
⅝" holes in the centers of any studs between the old fixture and the new
ones. Run two NM cables from the new boxes for the fixtures to the box
above the vanity. Protect the cable with metal protector plates. Secure the
cables with cable clamps, leaving 11" of extra cable for making the
connection to the new fixtures. Remove sheathing, and strip insulation from
the ends of the wires.
4
Connect the white wires from the new cables to the white wire from the old
cable, and connect the black wires from the new cables to the black wire
from the old cable. Connect the ground wires. Cover all open boxes, and
then replace the drywall, leaving openings for the fixture and the old box.
(Cover the old box with a solid junction box cover plate and leave it
accessible.)
5
Install the fixture mounting braces on the boxes. Attach the fixtures by
connecting the black circuit wire to the black fixture wire and connecting the
white circuit wire to the white fixture wire. Connect the ground wires.
Position each fixture over each box, and attach with the mounting screws.
Restore power and test the circuit.
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Low-Voltage Cable Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Hammer
Level
Screwdrivers
Drill and bits
Low-voltage cable light kit
Voltage Tester
Eye protection
T his unique fixture system is a mainstay of retail

and commercial lighting and is now becoming common
in homes. Low-voltage cable systems use two parallel
cables to suspend and provide electricity to fixtures
mounted anywhere on the cables. A 12-volt transformer
feeds low-voltage power to the cables.
The system’s ease of installation, flexibility, and the
wide variety of individual lights available make it
perfect for all kinds of spaces. Low-voltage cable light
systems are ideal for retrofits and for situations where
surface-mounted track is undesirable or impossible to
install.
SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED
Low-voltage cable lighting

kit Level Voltage tester
Hammer Drill and drill bits
Screwdrivers
images
Low-voltage cable lights are low profile and easy to install, but they provide a
surprising amount of light.
How to Install Low-Voltage Cable Lighting
CABLE LIGHT KITS

Transformer Cables
Low-voltage cable lights typically are sold in kits that contain the
hanging lights, the low-voltage cable, and a decorative transformer that
can be ceiling mounted or wall mounted.
1
Lay out locations for the screw eyes that are used to suspend the cables,
which should be in a parallel line. The path should lead the cables within a
foot of the existing ceiling fixture box that you are using to provide power.
2
Install wall anchors at the appointed locations for the screw eyes that will
suspend the cables. Plastic sleeve anchors are adequate in most cases. Drive
the anchors into guide holes with a hammer.
3
Twist the screw eyes into the wall anchor sleeves, taking care to make sure
they are driven in equal amounts and are not overdriven. Install a set of
screw eyes the same distance apart on each facing wall in the installation
area. Cut two pieces of low-voltage cable to span between screw eyes on
facing walls. Recommendations may vary—for the project shown here the
cable is cut 12" shorter than the distance between the screw eyes.
4
Use the crimping hardware in your kit to form small loops at the ends of
each cable. Slip the loops over the screw eyes on one end, and attach them
to turnbuckles at the opposite ends. Slide the turnbuckles over the screw
eyes and tighten them until the cables are taut.
5
Attach the transformer crossbar to the electrical box containing the circuit
leads. Shut off the power at the panel and test for power, and then remove
the old fixture, if you have not already done so.
6
Make wiring connections for the transformer inside the electrical box.
Make sure the transformer is supported while you join the wires. Be sure to
attach the grounding wires to the grounding screw or clip in the box.
7
Mount the transformer onto the electrical box according to the

manufacturer’s instructions. The model shown here has a separate chrome
cover that is secured with a setscrew after the transformer is mounted to the
crossbar.
8
Thread short lengths of cable into the openings on the screw terminals on
the transformer. Tighten the screws until the pointed probe in each terminal
pierces the cable sheathing and makes contact with the wire inside. Do the
same with the other ends of the jumper cables using the provided connector
hardware.
WALL-MOUNT IT
Install the transformer in a wall location if there is a more
convenient power source or if you simply prefer the
appearance of the wall location.
images
9
Hang the light fixture holders from the cables, tightening the screws in
the hanger ends until their probes pierce the cable sheathing and make
contact. It’s a good idea to hang all of the fixtures and arrange them to your
liking before you begin tightening the screws and piercing the sheathing.
10
Insert the special low-voltage bulbs into the fixture holders and secure
them as instructed (here, we are tightening a setscrew). Turn on the power
and test the lights, adjusting the angles and directions of the bulbs.
im
ages
Hardwired Smoke Alarms & CO Alarms
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Screwdriver
Combination tool
Fish tape
Drywall saw
Wall or ceiling outlet boxes
Cable clamps (if boxes are not self-clamping)
Two- and three-wire 14-gauge NM cable
Alarms
Wire connectors
15-amp single-pole AFCI breaker
Eye protection
S moke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms

are an essential safety component of any living facility.
All national fire-protection codes require that new
homes have a hardwired smoke alarm in every sleeping
room and on every level of a residence, including
basements and habitable attics.
Three types of alarms exist that can alert you to a
fire. Photoelectric alarms are better at detecting fires
with lots of flames. Ionization alarms are slightly better
at detecting smoldering fires. Heat alarms detect high
temperature created by a fire.
Many experts recommend installing photoelectric
alarms instead of the more common ionization alarms,
or as an alternative, installing some of each type. Heat
alarms may be installed in addition to smoke alarms but
may not be substituted for them.
ABCD
Smoke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms are required in new
construction. Hardwired CO alarms (A) are triggered by the presence of carbon
monoxide gas. Smoke alarms are available in photoelectric and ionizing
models. In ionizing detectors (B), a small amount of current flows in an
ionization chamber. When smoke enters the chamber, it interrupts the current,
triggering the alarm. Photoelectric alarms (C) rely on a beam of light, which
when interrupted by smoke triggers an alarm. Heat alarms (D) sound an alarm
when they detect areas of high heat in the room.
Smoke alarms have a limited service life of about 10

years. You should replace smoke alarms after 10 years
regardless of whether the alarm sounds when you press
the test button. The test button, especially on older
alarms, may only test the sounding device, not the
smoke detection system.
Hardwired alarms operate on your household
electrical current but have battery backups in case of a
power outage. On new homes, all smoke alarms must be
wired in a series so that every alarm sounds regardless
of the fire’s location. When wiring a series of alarms, be
sure to use alarms of the same brand to ensure
compatibility. Always check local codes before starting
the job.
images
A little known fact about smoke alarms is that manufacturers recommend

periodic maintenance. Blowing compressed air into the alarm where indicated
by the manufacturer can reduce the chance of a false alarm.
Smoke alarms installed on the ceiling should be at
least 4" from the wall. Smoke alarms installed on the
wall should be at least 4" and not more than 12" from
the ceiling. As always, read and follow the
Smoke alarms and CO alarms are considered such
important safety devices that national codes require
updating these alarms to current code requirements
during some types of remodeling projects. Enforcement
of this requirement varies by jurisdiction, so check with
your building department before major remodeling.
permit. The electrical inspector may require that you
install arc-fault protection on the entire circuit. Check
with the electrical inspector before starting such
projects.
How to Connect a Series of Hardwired Smoke
Alarms
1 Three-wire cable to next detector
in series Two-wire cable from service
panel
Pull 14/2 NM cable from the panel into the first ceiling electrical box in the
smoke alarm series. Pull 14/3 NM cable between the remaining alarm outlet
boxes. Use cable clamps to secure the cable in each outlet box. Remove
sheathing, and strip insulation from wires.
2
Ensure power is off, and test for power. Wire the first alarm in the series.
Use a wire connector to connect the ground wires. Splice the black circuit
wire with the alarm’s black lead and the black wire going to the next alarm
in the series. Splice the white circuit wire with the alarm’s white wire and
the white (neutral) wire going to the next alarm in the series. Splice the red
traveler wire with the odd-colored alarm wire (in this case, also a red wire).
3
Wire the remaining alarms in the series by connecting the like-colored

wires in each outlet box. Always connect the red traveler wire to the odd-
colored (in this case, red) alarm wire. This red traveler wire connects all the
alarms together so that when one alarm sounds, all the alarms sound. If the
alarm doesn’t have a grounding wire, cap the ground with a wire connector.
When all alarms are wired, install and connect the new 15-amp AFCI
breaker.
im
ages
Landscape Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Drill/driver & bits

Hammer
Screwdrivers
Hacksaw
Spade
Low-voltage fixture
Wires
Transformer
Stakes
Hacksaw
Eye protection
S ome landscape lighting manufacturers pitch their

systems as security products. If you keep the outside of
your house well lit, the reasoning goes, the thieves will
turn elsewhere to find easier pickings. It’s possible that
the companies are right about this. But probably the
stronger arguments are for improved safety and
appearance.
It can’t be surprising that adding some light to the
dark makes going places safer. This idea has been
around for a long time—a very long time. But the notion
that you can improve the look of your house by adding
some nightlights is more recent. In fact, decorating with
exterior lights became widespread only in the last 25
years, when low-voltage landscape lighting showed up.
Low-voltage lights are powered by a transformer that
steps 120-volt current down to a safe 12 volts. Choosing
the location for the transformer is an important part of
planning. You have two options: inside the house and
outside the house. The outside installation is a little
easier, but the inside one is a little better, especially
from a security standpoint. Also take some time to
review your light placement. Once you are happy with
the plan, drive a small stake where you want each light
to go.
images
Low-voltage lights are safe to install and use to beautify your outdoor spaces.
Unlike solar landscape lights, they are powered by household electricity, so they
really can stay on all night if you wish them to.
images
Parts of a Landscape Light System
ABCDEfGHIJK
Landscape lighting can be ordered in kit form or as individual

pieces. Kits include a few light heads, some wire, and a
transformer that changes standard house current into low-voltage
power. If you want half a dozen lights along the front walk, for
example, then the kit is a good idea. It’s cheaper, very easy to
install, and will last a long time unless the lights get run over by a
lawnmower.
Typical low-voltage outdoor lighting systems consist of lens cap

(A), lens cap posts (B), upper reflector (C), lens (D),
base/stake/cable connector assembly (contains lower reflector)
(E), low-voltage cable (F), lens hood (G), 12-volt bulbs (H),
cable connector caps (I), control box containing transformer and
timer (J), and light sensor (K).
images How to Modify Landscape Lights for Deck Installation
Specialty lights can cost a lot more than the standard plastic
spike-base lamps. Because of this, many people modify the
cheaper units to serve other purposes. To do this, first cut off the
spike-base with a hacksaw.
To install a modified light on a deck, bore a wire-clearance hole

through a deck board. Then feed the low-voltage wire through
this hole, and attach the base to the deck with screws. The same
technique can be used to install modified units on planters or
railings.
images How to Install Low-Voltage Landscape Lights
Install the transformer. In a garage, mount it on a wall within 24"

of a GFCI receptacle and at least 12" off the floor. At an outdoor
receptacle on a wall or a post, mount the transformer on the same
post or an adjacent post at least 12" off the ground and not more
than 24" from the receptacle.
Note: The transformer must be accessible
2 Sensor
Drill a hole through the wall for the low-voltage cable and any
sensors to pass through. If a circuit begins in a high-traffic area,
protect the cable by running it through a short piece of PVC pipe
or conduit, and then into the shallow trench.
Attach the end of the low-voltage wire to the terminals on the

transformer. Make sure that both strands of wire are held tightly
by their terminal screws.
Transformers usually have a simple mechanism that allows you

to set times for the lights to come ON and go OFF automatically.
Set these times before hanging the transformer.
Many low-voltage light fixtures are modular, consisting of a

spiked base, a riser tube, and a lamp. On these units, feed the
wires and the wire connector from the light section down through
the riser tube and into the base.
6 Connector box
Take apart the connector box and insert the ends of the fixture
wire and the low-voltage landscape cable into it. Puncture the
wire ends with the connector box leads. Reassemble the
connector box.
Feed the wire connector back into the light base, and attach it to
the lampholder according to directions. Install the low-voltage
lightbulb.
Tip: Use LED lightbulbs to save electricity.
Assemble the fixture parts that cover the bulb, including the lens
cap and reflector or the cap.
Lay out the lights, with the wires attached, in the pattern you
have chosen. Then cut the sod between fixtures with a spade.
Push the blade at least 6" deep and pry open a slot by rocking the
blade back and forth.
10
Gently force the cable into the slot formed by the spade; don’t
tear the wire insulation. A paint stick (or a cedar shingle) is a
good tool for this job. Push the wire to the bottom of the slot.
11
Firmly push the light into the slot in the sod. If the lamp doesn’t
seat properly, pull it out and cut another slot at a right angle to the
first and try again.
12
Once the lamp is stabilized, tuck any extra wire into the slot
using the paint stick. No part of the wire should be exposed when
you are done with the job.
images
Doorbells
Continuity tester
Screwdriver
Multimeter
Needlenose pliers
Cotton swab
Rubbing alcohol
Replacement doorbell switch (if needed)
Masking tape
Replacement chime unit (if needed)
Most doorbell problems are caused by loose wire connections or worn-out

switches. Reconnecting loose wires or replacing a switch requires only a
few minutes. Doorbell problems also can occur if the chime unit becomes
dirty or worn or if the low-voltage transformer burns out. Both parts are
easy to replace. Because most doorbells operate at low voltage, the
switches and the chime unit can be serviced without turning off power to
the system. However, when replacing a transformer, always turn off the
power at the panel.
Some older houses have other low-voltage transformers in addition to the
doorbell transformer. These transformers control heating and air-
conditioning thermostats or other low-voltage systems. When testing and
repairing a doorbell system, it is important to identify the correct
transformer. A doorbell transformer has a rating of 24 volts or less. This
rating is printed on the face of the transformer. The location of your
doorbell transformer is based on local custom and the age of your home. It
may be near or attached to the service panel. It may be in the attic,
basement, crawlspace, or garage.
In most modern heating and air-conditioning systems, the transformer

serving the system is inside the furnace cabinet. In older systems, it may be
located near the furnace.
Occasionally a doorbell problem is caused by a broken low-voltage wire

somewhere in the system. You can test for wire breaks with a battery-
operated multitester. If the test indicates a break, new low-voltage wires
must be installed between the transformer and the switches or between the
switches and chime unit. Replacing low-voltage wires is not a difficult job,
but it can be time-consuming. You may choose to have an electrician do
this work.
Circuit wires Magnetic coil Electrical box (required) Plungers

Switch Low-voltage doorbell wires Transformer Chimes
A home doorbell system is powered by a transformer that reduces

120-volts to 24 volts or less. Current flows from the transformer
to one or more push-button switches. When pushed, the switch
activates a magnetic coil inside the chime unit, causing a plunger
to strike a musical tuning bar.
images How to Test a Nonfunctional Doorbell System
Remove the mounting screws holding the doorbell switch to the

siding.
2
Carefully pull the switch away from the wall.
Inspect wire connections on the switch. If wires are loose,

reconnect them to the screw terminals. Test the doorbell by
pressing the button. If the doorbell still does not work, disconnect
the switch and test it with a continuity tester.
Attach the clip of a continuity tester to one screw terminal and

touch the probe to the other screw terminal. Press the switch
button. The tester should glow. If not, then the switch is faulty
and must be replaced.
Twist the doorbell switch wires together temporarily to test the

other parts of the doorbell system.
6 Transformer
Locate the doorbell transformer. If it’s not near the service panel,
look in the garage, crawlspace, and attic.
Identify the doorbell transformer by reading its voltage rating.

Doorbell transformers have a voltage rating of 24 volts or less.
Turn off power to the transformer at the panel. Remove the cover
on the electrical box, and test the wires for power. Reconnect any
loose wires. Replace taped connections with wire connectors.
8
Reattach the cover plate. Inspect the low-voltage wire
connections, and reconnect any loose wires using needlenose
pliers or a screwdriver. Turn on power to the transformer at the
main service panel.
Touch the probes of the multimeter to the low-voltage screw

terminals on the transformer. If the transformer is operating
properly, the meter will detect power within 2 volts of the
transformer’s rating. If not, the transformer is faulty and must be
replaced.
10
Test the chime unit. Remove the cover plate on the doorbell
chime unit. Inspect the low-voltage wire connections, and
reconnect any loose wires.
11
Test that the chime unit is receiving current. Touch probes of a

multimeter to screw terminals. If the multimeter detects power
within 2 volts of the transformer rating, then the unit is receiving
proper current. If it detects no power or very low power, there is a
break in the low-voltage wiring, and new wires must be installed.
12
Clean the chime plungers (some models) with a cotton swab

dipped in rubbing alcohol. Reassemble doorbell switches, and
then test the system by pushing one of the switches. If the
doorbell still does not work, then the chime unit is faulty and
must be replaced (see here).
images How to Replace a Doorbell Switch
1
Remove the doorbell switch mounting screws, and carefully pull
the switch away from the wall.
Disconnect wires from the switch. Tape wires to the wall to

prevent them from slipping into the wall cavity.
Purchase a new doorbell switch, and connect the wires to the

screw terminals on the new switch. (Wires are interchangeable
and can be connected to either terminal.) Anchor the switch to the
wall.
images How to Replace a Doorbell Chime Unit
Turn off power to the doorbell at the main panel. Remove the
cover plate from the old chime. Label the low-voltage wires
FRONT, REAR, or TRANS to identify their screw terminal
locations. Disconnect the wires. Remove the old chime unit.
Purchase a new chime unit that matches the voltage rating of the
old unit. Thread the low-voltage wires through the base of the
new chime unit. Attach the chime unit to the wall using the
mounting screws included with the installation kit.
Connect the low-voltage wires to the screw terminals on the new

chime unit. Attach the cover plate, and turn on the power at the
main service panel.
images
Wireless Switches
Voltage tester
Screwdrivers
Wire connectors
Wireless switch transmitter & receiver/switch
Sometimes a light switch is just in the wrong place, or it would be more

convenient to have two switches controlling a single fixture. Adding a
second switch the conventional way generally requires hours of work and
big holes in walls. (Electricians call this a three-way switch installation.)
Fortunately wireless switch kits are available to perform basically the same
function for a fraction of the cost and effort. There is a bit of real wiring
involved here, but it’s not nearly as complicated as the traditional method
of adding a three-way switch installation.
The kits work by replacing a conventional switch with a unit that has a
built-in radio frequency receiver that will read a remote device mounted
within a 50-foot radius. The kits come with a remote, battery-powered
switch (it looks like a standard light switch) that you can attach to a wall
with double-sided tape.
Two other similar types of wireless switch kits are also available. One
allows you to control a plugged-in lamp or appliance with a remote light
switch. The second type allows you to control a conventional light fixture
remotely, but instead of replacing the switch, the receiver screws in below
the lightbulb. This is particularly useful if you want to control a pull-chain
light from a wall switch.
Wireless switch with transmitter Switch with wireless receiver
A wireless switch is a two-part switching system: a wireless

switch with a battery-powered transmitter can be attached to any
wall surface; an existing switch is then replaced with a new
switch containing a receiver that is triggered by signals from the
wireless transmitter, effectively creating a three-way switch
condition.
images WIRELESS SWITCH PRODUCTS
Wireless lamp switch Wireless wall switch kit Wireless plug-in

switch
Wireless kits are available to let you switch lights on and off
remotely in a variety of ways: at the switch, at the plug, or at the
bulb socket.
images
The remote switch is a wireless transmitter that requires a battery.

The transmitter switch attaches to the wall with adhesive tape or
velcro strips.
images
A receiver with a receptacle can be plugged into any receptacle to

give it wireless functionality. The switch is operated with a
remote control transmitter.
images
A radio-controlled light fixture can be threaded into the socket of

any existing light fixture so it can be turned on and off with a
remote control device.
images How to Install a Wireless Wall Switch
Get rid of the old switch. Shut off power to the switch circuit, and
then disconnect and remove the old switch.
2 Grounding wire
Identify the lead wire. Carefully separate the power supply wires
(any color but white or green) in the switch box so they are not
contacting each other or any other surface. Restore power and
test each lead wire with a noncontact voltage tester to identify
which wire carries the power (the LINE) and which is headed for
the fixture the switch controls (the LOAD). Shut power back off,
and then label the wires.
Connect the LINE wire to the LINE terminal or wire on the

switch. Connect the LOAD wire (or wires) to the LOAD terminal
or wire. The neutral whites (if present) and green grounding
wires should be twisted together with a connector. The greens
should be grounded to the grounding clip or terminal in the box.
NOTE: Some switch boxes, such as the one above, are wired with NM2
cable that has two blacks and a green wire and no white.
Once the wires are firmly connected, you can attach the switch to
the box. Tuck the new switch and wires neatly back into the box.
Then drive the two long screws that are attached to the new
switch into the two holes in the electrical box.
Attach the cover plate to the new wireless switch. Turn the power
service back on, and test to make sure the switch operates
normally.
Install a new 9-volt battery (or other type as required) in the box,
and connect it to the switch transmitter terminals. Remove the
backing from the adhesive pads on the back of the wireless
switch transmitter box.
Stick the transmitter box to the wall at the desired location. The
box should be no more than 50 ft. from the receiver switch (see
manufacturer’s instructions). The box should be at the same
height (usually 48") as the other switch boxes.
Test the operation of both switches. Each switch should

successfully turn the light fixture on and off. You’ve just
successfully created a three-way switch installation without
running any new wires.
images
Baseboard Heaters
Drill/driver
Wire stripper
Cable ripper
Drywall saw
Baseboard heater or heaters
240-thermostat (in-heater or in-wall)
12/2 NM cable
Electrical tape
Basic wiring supplies
Baseboard heaters are a popular way to provide additional heating for an

existing room or primary heat to a converted attic or basement. Extending a
branch circuit or adding a new branch to install new receptacles, lights,
switches, or equipment requires a permit. The electrical inspector may
require that you install arc-fault protection on the entire circuit. Check with
the electrical inspector before starting such projects.
Heaters are generally wired on a dedicated 240-volt circuit controlled by a

thermostat. Several heaters can be wired in parallel and controlled by a
single thermostat (see circuit map 15, here).
Baseboard heaters are generally surface-mounted without boxes, so in a

remodeling situation, you only need to run cables before installing
wallboard. Be sure to mark cable locations on the floor before installing
drywall. Retrofit installations are also not difficult. You can remove
existing baseboard and run new cable in the space behind. Baseboard
heaters (and other heating equipment) get very hot and can ignite nearby
combustible materials. Maintain the manufacturer’s recommended distance
between the heater and materials such as curtains, blinds, and wood.
images
Baseboard heaters can provide primary or supplemental heat for

existing rooms or additions. Install heaters with clear space
between the heater and the floor.
images
Baseboard Thermostats
Single-pole thermostat Double-pole thermostat
Single-pole and double-pole thermostats work in a similar

manner, but double-pole models are safer. The single-pole model
will open the circuit (causing shutoff) in only one leg of the
power service. Double-pole models have two sets of wires to
open both legs, lessening the chance that a person servicing the
heater will contact a live wire.
In-heater thermostat Wall-mount thermostat
In-heater and wall-mount are the two types of baseboard

thermostats you can choose from. If you are installing multiple
heaters, a single wall-mount thermostat is more convenient.
Individual in-heater thermostats give you more zone control,
which can result in energy savings.
images HOW MUCH HEATER DO YOU NEED?
Here is a simple calculation get a rough idea of the lineal feet of baseboard
a room requires. For a more accurate estimate, consult a professional.
1. 1. Measure the area of the room in square feet (length × width): ____
2. 2. Multiply the area by 10 to get the baseline minimum wattage: ____
3. 3. Add 5% for each newer window or 10% for each older window:
____
4. 4. Add 10% for each exterior wall in the room: ____
5. 5. Add 10% for each exterior door: ____
6. 6. Add 10% if the space below is not insulated: ____
7. 7. Add 20% if the space above is not well insulated: ____
8. 8. Add 10% if ceiling is more than 8 ft. high: ____
9. 9. Total of the baseline wattage plus all additions: ____
1. 10. Divide this number by 250 (the wattage produced per foot of
standard baseboard heater): ____
2. 11. Round up to a whole number. This is the minimum number of feet
of heater you need. ____
NOTE: It is much better to have more feet of heater than is required than
fewer. Having more footage of heater does not consume more energy; it
does allow the heaters to work more efficiently.
images PLANNING TIPS FOR BASEBOARD HEATERS

• Baseboard heaters require a dedicated circuit. A 20-amp, 240-volt
circuit of 12-gauge copper wire will power up to 16 ft. of heater.
• Do not install a heater beneath a wall receptacle. Cords hanging
down from the receptacle are a fire hazard.
• Do not mount heaters directly on the floor. You should maintain at
least 1" of clear space between the baseboard heater and the floor
covering.
• Installing heaters directly beneath windows is a good practice.
• Locate wall thermostats on interior walls only, and do not install
directly above a heat source.
images How to Install a 240-Volt Baseboard Heater
At the heater locations, cut a small hole in the drywall 3" to 4"
above the floor. Pull 12/2 NM (or the wire gauge specified by the
heater manufacturer) cables through the first hole: one from the
thermostat, the other to the next heater. Pull all the cables for
subsequent heaters. Middle-of-run heaters will have two cables,
while end-of-run heaters have only one cable. (See also circuit
map 15, here.)
2 Clamp screw Wire connection box
Remove the cover on the wire connection box. Open a knockout

for each cable that will enter the box, and then feed the cables
through the cable clamps and into the wire connection box.
Attach the clamps to the wire connection box, and tighten the
clamp screws until the cables are gripped firmly.
Anchor the heater against wall about 1" off floor by driving
flathead screws through the back of the housing and into studs.
Strip away cable sheathing so at least ½" of sheathing extends
into the heater. Strip ¾" of insulation from each wire using a
combination tool.
4 To next heater To element From thermostat Grounding screw
Make connections to the heating element if the power wires are

coming from a thermostat or another heater controlled by a
thermostat. See the next page for other wiring schemes. Connect
the white circuit wires to one of the wire leads on the heater. Tag
white wires with black tape to indicate they are hot. Connect the
black circuit wires to the other wire lead. Connect a grounding
pigtail to the green grounding screw in the box, and then join all
grounding wires with a wire connector. Reattach the cover.
images
One heater with end-cap thermostat. Run both power leads (black
plus tagged neutral) into the connection box at either end of the
heater. If installing a single-pole thermostat, connect one power
lead to one thermostat wire and connect the other thermostat
wire, to one of the heater leads. Connect the other hot LINE wire
to the other heater lead. If you are installing a double-pole
thermostat, make connections with both legs of the power supply.
images
Multiple heaters. At the first heater, join both hot wires from the
thermostat to the wires leading to the second heater in line. Be
sure to tag all white neutrals hot. Twist copper ground wires
together and pigtail them to the grounding screw in the baseboard
heater junction box. This parallel wiring configuration ensures
that power flow will not be interrupted to the downstream heaters
if an upstream heater fails.
images
Wall-mounted thermostat. If installing a wall-mounted

thermostat, the power leads should enter the thermostat first and
then be wired to the individual heaters singly or in series.
Hookups at the heater are made as shown in step 4. Be sure to tag
the white neutral as hot in the thermostat box as well as in the
heater box.
images
Wall Heaters
Drywall saw
Voltage tester
Drill
Fish tape
Combination tool
Screwdrivers
12/2 NM cable
Wire connectors
Wall heater
Thermostat (optional)
Installing a wall heater is an easy way to provide supplemental heat to a

converted attic or basement without expanding an existing HVAC system.
Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to install new
receptacles, lights, switches, or equipment requires a permit. The electrical
inspector may require that you install arc-fault protection on the entire
circuit. Check with the electrical inspector before starting such projects.
Wall heaters are easy to install during a remodel (most have a separate can
assembly that you attach to the framing before the drywall is installed).
They can also be retrofitted.
Most models available at home centers use 120-volt current (shown below),
but 240-volt models are also available.
images
Wall heaters are an easy-to-install way to provide supplemental

heat. Some models have built-in thermostats, while others can be
controlled by a remote thermostat.
images How to Install a 120-Volt Wall Heater in a Finished Wall
Make an opening in the wall for the heater. Use a stud finder to
locate a stud in the area where you want to install the heater.
Mark the opening for the heater according to the manufacturer’s
guidelines so that one side of the heater sits flush with a stud. Pay
attention to clearance requirements. Cut the opening with a
drywall saw. If the wall is open, install the heater can before
hanging drywall (inset).
Turn the power off, and test for power. Pull 12/2 NM (or the wire
gauge specified by the heater manufacturer) cable from the
service panel to the wall opening. If the heater is controlled by a
separate thermostat, pull cable to the thermostat, and then run
another cable from the thermostat to the heater location.
Disconnect and remove the motor unit from the heater can.
Remove a knockout from the can, and route the cable into the
can.
4
Install the can in the opening. Secure the cable with a clamp,
leaving 8" to 12" of cable exposed. Attach the can to the framing
as directed by the manufacturer.
Wire the heater. Connect the black hot circuit wire to one of the
black heater leads. Connect the white neutral circuit wire to the
neutral lead. Connect the grounds.
Secure the heater unit in the can as directed by the manufacturer.

Reconnect the motor if necessary. Attach the grill and thermostat
knob as directed. Connect the new circuit breaker at the main
panel.
images
VARIATION: Connect a thermostat to control a wall heater.

Some wall heaters do not use built-in thermostats. Install a
thermostat in the heater circuit before the wall heater, following
the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
images
Underfloor Radiant Heat Systems

Vacuum cleaner
Multimeter
Tape measure
Scissors
Router/rotary tool
Marker
Electric wire fault indicator (optional)
Hot glue gun
Radiant floor mats
12/2 NM cable
Trowel or rubber float
Conduit
Thinset mortar
Thermostat with sensor
Junction box(es)
Tile or stone floorcovering
Drill
Double-sided carpet tape
Cable clamps
Floor-warming systems require very little energy to run and are designed to
heat ceramic tile floors only; they generally are not used as sole heat
sources for rooms. Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to
install new receptacles, lights, switches, or equipment requires a permit.
Check with the electrical inspector before starting such projects.
A typical floor-warming system consists of one or more thin mats

containing electric resistance wires that heat up when energized, like an
electric blanket. The mats are installed beneath the tile and are hardwired to
a 120-volt GFCI circuit. A thermostat controls the temperature, and a timer
turns the system off automatically.
The system shown in this project includes two plastic mesh mats, each with
its own power lead that is wired directly to the thermostat. Radiant mats
may be installed over a plywood subfloor, but if you plan to install floor
tile, you should put down a base of cementboard first, and then install the
mats on top of the cementboard.
A crucial part of installing this system is to use a multimeter to perform

several resistance checks to make sure the heating wires have not been
damaged during shipping or installation.
Electrical service required for a floor-warming system is based on size. A

smaller system may connect to an existing circuit, but this may not be a
bathroom receptacle circuit, and the system may not draw more than 50
percent of the circuit current capacity. A larger system will need a
dedicated circuit; follow the manufacturer’s instructions. These systems
should be on a GFCI-protected circuit.
To order a floor-warming system, contact the manufacturer or dealer (see

Resources, here). In most cases, you can send them plans and they’ll
custom-fit a system for your project area.
images
A radiant floor-warming system employs electric heating mats

that are covered with floor tile to create a floor that’s cozy
underfoot.
images INSTALLATION TIPS
Thermostat Timer Dedicated circuit cable Thermostat sensor

wire Electrical conduit Power leads Heating mats Floor tile
Thinset mortar Heating mat Concrete or cementboard
underlayment
A floor-warming system requires a dedicated GFCI circuit to
power and control its heating mats, thermostat, and timer.
• Each radiant mat must have a direct connection to the power lead
from the thermostat, with the connection made in a junction box in the
wall cavity. Do not install mats in series.
• Do not install radiant floor mats under shower areas.
• Do not overlap mats or let them touch.
• Do not cut heating wire or damage heating wire insulation.
• The distance between wires in adjoining mats should equal the
distance between wire loops measured center to center.
images
Installing a Radiant Floor-Warming System
images
Floor-warming systems must be installed on a circuit with

adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker. Smaller systems may tie
into an existing circuit, but larger ones need a dedicated circuit.
Follow local building and electrical codes that apply to your
project.
images
An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for

continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in
continuity (for example, if a wire is cut), an alarm sounds. If you
choose not to use an indicator tool to monitor the mat, test for
continuity frequently using a multimeter.
images How to Install a Radiant Floor-Warming System
Install electrical boxes to house the thermostat and timer. In most

cases, the box should be located 60" above floor level. Use a 4"-
deep × 4"-wide double-gang box for the thermostat/ timer control
if your kit has an integral model. If your timer and thermostat are
separate, install a separate single box for the timer.
Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads that are
preattached to the mats (they should be over 10 ft. long). The
leads should be connected to a supply wire from the thermostat in
a junction box located in a wall near the floor and below the
thermostat box. The access hole for each mat should be located
directly beneath the knockout for that cable in the thermostat box.
Drill through the sill plate vertically and horizontally so the holes
meet in an L-shape.
Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate. The line
for the supply cable should be ¾" conduit. If you are installing
multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed into a junction box
about 6" above the sill plate and then continue into the ¾" hole
you drilled for the supply leads. The sensor wire needs only ½"
conduit that runs straight from the thermostat box via the
thermostat. Unless you are tapping into an existing circuit, the
mats should be powered by a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit of
12/2 NM cable run from your main service panel to the electrical
box (this is for 120-volt mats—check your instruction manual for
specific circuit recommendations).
Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris that
could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner
generally does a more effective job than a broom.
5
Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure ohms. This
is a test you should make frequently during the installation, along
with checking for continuity. If the resistance is off by more than
10% from the theoretical resistance listing (see manufacturer’s
chart in installation instructions), contact a technical support
operator for the kit manufacturer. For example, the theoretical
resistance for the 1 × 50 ft. mat seen here is 19, so the ohms
reading should be between 17 and 21.
Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor warming mat
manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the time of
purchase, or they will give you access to an online design tool so
you can come up with your own plan. This is an important step to
the success of your project, and the assistance is free.
Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Arrange
the mat or mats according to the plan you created. It’s okay to cut
the plastic mesh so you can make curves or switchbacks, but do
not cut the heating wire under any circumstances, even to shorten
it.
Finalize the mat layout, and then test the resistance again using a
multimeter. Also check for continuity in several different spots. If
there is a problem with any of the mats, you should identify it and
correct it before proceeding with the mortar installation.
Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box down the
½" conduit raceway and out the access hole in the sill plate.
Select the best location for the thermostat sensor, and mark the
location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of the wires
that connect to and lead from the sensor.
images
VARIATION: If your local codes require it, roll the mats out of
the way, and cut a channel for the sensor and the sensor wires
into the floor or floor underlayment. For most floor materials, a
spiral cutting tool does a quick and neat job of this task. Remove
any debris.
10
Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have
adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out the
mats in the correct position, pressing them against the floor to set
the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind them with
strips of double-sided carpet tape. The thermostat sensor and the
power supply leads should be attached with hot glue (inset photo)
and run up into their respective holes in the sill plate if you have
not done this already. Test all mats for resistance and continuity.
11
Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset mortar

that is thick enough to fully encapsulate all the wires and mats
(usually around ¼" in thickness). Check the wires for continuity
and resistance regularly, and stop working immediately if there is
a drop in resistance or a failure of continuity. Allow the mortar to
dry overnight.
12
Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to the NM
cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction box near the
sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads should be cut so
about 8" of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to use cable clamps
to protect the wires.
13
Connect the sensor wire and the power supply lead (from the
junction box) to the thermostat/timer according to the
manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the electrical box,
restore power, and test the system to make sure it works. Once
you are convinced that it is operating properly, install floor tiles
and repair the wall surfaces.
Note: Enclose the junction box with a blank cover. Do not cover it with
drywall; it must remain accessible.
images
Ceiling Fans
Screwdriver
Combination tool
Pliers or adjustable wrench
Voltage tester
Hammer
Ceiling fan light kit
2 × 4 lumber or adjustable ceiling fan crossbrace
1½" and 3" coarse-thread screws
Eye protection
Downrod (if needed)

Ceiling fans are installed and wired like ceiling fixtures. They always
require heavy-duty bracing and electrical boxes rated for ceiling fans.
Most standard ceiling fans work with a wall switch functioning as master
power for the unit. Pull chains attached to the unit control the fan and
lights. In these installations, it’s fairly simple to replace an existing ceiling
fixture with a fan and light.
If you will be installing a new circuit for the fan, use three-wire cable so
both the light and the motor can be controlled by wall switches (see circuit
maps 30 and 31, here).
Because ceiling fans generally weigh more than ceiling lights and the
motion of the blade creates more stress, it is very important that the ceiling
box is securely mounted and is rated for ceiling fans. Ceiling boxes rated
for ceiling fans are marked with the phrase “For ceiling fan support.” If
your existing ceiling box is not fan-rated, replace it with one that is. And be
sure to inspect the manner in which the box is mounted to make sure it is
strong enough (see here).
Installation varies from fan to fan, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s

instructions.
images
A ceiling fan helps keep living spaces cooler in the summer and
warmer in the winter. Replacing an overhead light with a
fan/light is an easy project with big payback.
images
Ceiling Fan Types
Mounting bracket Canopy Motor Fan blades Pull chain Switch

housing Bottom cap
Bracket-mounted ceiling fans are hung directly from a mounting

bracket that is attached to the ceiling box. A canopy conceals the
motor and the connections.
Mounting bracket Hook Downrod Canopy Motor collar

Hanging pin Mounting screw Fan motor Fan direction control
Light fixture Fan blade
Downrod mounted ceiling fans are supported by a metal rod

that’s hung from the ceiling mounting bracket. The length of the
rod determines the height of the fan. Downrod fans are used in
rooms with ceilings 8 ft. high or higher. You may need to buy a
longer downrod if you have a very high ceiling.
images FANS THAT HEAT
The first generation of ceiling fans did one job: they spun and moved air.
As the technology advanced, light kits were added to replace the light
source that is lost when a fan-only appliance is installed. Now, some ceiling
fans are manufactured with electric heating elements that can produce up to
5,000 BTU of heat, comparable to a small space heater. Located in the fan
canopy, the ceramic heat elements direct heat out the vents and force it
down to the living level in the room, along with the heated air that naturally
rises.
Fan-mounted heaters are relatively light duty, so they generally do not

require a dedicated circuit. In most cases, you can supply power to the
heater/fan with any 15-amp room light circuit that has extra capacity.
images
images
Supporting Ceiling Boxes
images
Add a wood brace above the ceiling box if you have access from
above (as in an attic). Cut a 2 × 4 or deeper brace to fit and fasten
it between the ceiling joists. Drive a couple of deck screws
through the ceiling box and into the brace. If the box is not fan
rated, replace it with one that is.
Shown cutaway Joist Brace Mounting bracket Drywall
Install an adjustable fan brace if the ceiling is closed and you

don’t want to remove the drywall. Remove the old light and the
electrical box, and then insert the fan brace into the box opening
(inset photo). Twist the brace housing to cause it to telescope
outward. The brace should be centered over the opening and at
the right height so the ceiling box is flush with the ceiling surface
once it is hung from the brace.
images
Bracket-Mounted Fans
images
Direct-mount fan units have a motor housing with a mounting tab

that fits directly into a slot on the mounting bracket. Fans with
this mounting approach are secure and easy to install but difficult
to adjust.
images
Ball-and-socket fan units have a downrod, but instead of

threading into the mounting bracket, the downrod has an attached
ball that fits into a hanger “socket” in the mounting bracket. This
installation allows the fan to move in the socket and find its own
level for quiet operation.
images How to Install Downrod Ceiling Fans
Shut off the power to the circuit at the panel. Unscrew the
existing fixture and carefully pull it away from the ceiling. Test
for power with a voltage tester to confirm the power is off.
Disconnect and remove the old fixture.
2 Rod hanger pipe Canopy
Run the wires from the top of the fan motor through the canopy
and then through the rod hanger pipe. Slide the rod hanger pipe
through the canopy and attach the pipe to the motor collar using
the included hanging pin. Tighten the mounting screws firmly.
3 Hanging pin
Hang the motor assembly by the hook on the mounting bracket.

Connect the wires according to manufacturer’s directions, using
wire connectors to join the fixture wires to the circuit wires in the
box. Gather the wires together and tuck them inside the fan
canopy. Lift the canopy and attach it to the mounting bracket.
4 Light kit housing
Attach the fan blades with the included hardware. Connect the
wiring for the fan’s light fixture according to the manufacturer’s
directions. Tuck all wires into the switch housing, and attach the
fixture. Install lightbulbs. Restore power and test the fan.
images
Remote-Control Ceiling Fan Retrofit

Ceiling fan remote kit
Wire connectors
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Needlenose pliers
Wire strippers
Voltage tester
Eye protection
Ceiling fan remote control switches offer an easy way of controlling both
the lighting and fan function of your ceiling fan. They are commonly used
when there are only a hot and neutral at the fan location or where the ability
to switch two different functions is not present in the wiring. The remote
can save you the need to install another switch and/or the need to pull
another wire to your ceiling fan. Many different remotes on the market can
be used with different manufacturer ceiling fans, so you are not limited to
the brand of fan you are using.
images
A retrofit remote control kit lets you take the hassle (and the pull
chains) out of operating just about any ceiling fan and light.
To power source To power source To light To fan Common

neutral Remote control Receiver unit Antenna
Parts of an aftermarket remote control kit for a ceiling fan usually

include the remote control unit (some come with a cradle) and the
receiver unit. Your unit may come with color-coded wire
connectors and mounting hardware as well.
Ground Box Antenna To fan Receiver Common To light From

switch (power source)
Wiring a remote control fan controller is pretty simple. The black

and white feed wires from the power source should be connected
to the black and white power input wires coming out the receiver.
The red wire from the receiver should be connected to the red
wire from the fan light. The white neutral wire from the fan light
should be connected to the common white wire coming out of the
receiver. The black wire from the fan should be connected to the
black fan wire from the receiver. The white neutral wire from the
fan should be connected to the common white wire coming out of
the receiver. The green ground wire from the power source
should be pigtailed to the grounding terminal in the ceiling box.
images How to Retrofit a Remote Control to a Ceiling Fan
Turn your fan on high speed and turn the lights on. Then, at the
main service panel, shut off the power to the circuit that supplies
your ceiling fan.
Remove the fan blades, one at a time on opposite sides of one

another, so as to not overweight a certain side, which could bend
the shaft and create a wobble. There are generally two vertically
installed Phillips head #10 screws that hold the blade bracket to
the motor housing.
If a light kit was installed on the fan, remove it as well. First,

remove the bulbs and any glass diffusers, and then remove the
light kit itself. Usually you’ll find three horizontally installed #6
Phillips head screws attached to the pan directly below the motor
housing. Unplug the light kit from the fan wires and set aside.
If your fan has a downrod between the motor housing and the
ceiling, remove the canopy on the top of the pipe connected to
the mounting plate on the ceiling. You should find two to four
horizontally installed #6 screws near the base of the canopy.
Remove the screws, and slide the canopy down to expose the
wiring.
Check all wires with a voltage tester to verify there is no power

present.
Disconnect the black, red or blue, and white wires from the
electrical box wires.
Install the receiving unit of the remote fan kit. Connect the black
and white wires from the receiving unit input to the black and the
white wires coming from the electrical box in the ceiling. If a red
wire was used originally to feed the light portion of the fan, cap
this wire with a wire nut and fold it into the box.
8 Common neutral connection Light connection Antenna Fan

connection
Connect the output of the receiving unit to the fan’s associated

wiring: black wire to black wire, white wire to white wire, and
blue wire to blue wire (or red to red, or red to blue). If a downrod
was used to hang the fan, place the receiving unit above the ball
and flange portion of the mounting bracket.
Reinstall the canopy, fan blades, and light kit. Restore power.
Install the batteries into the remote control sending unit, and test
to make sure the fan is spinning on all three modes: Low,
Medium, and High. Test the light switch to verify the light switch
works as well. Disconnect and remove the pullchains.
images
Bathroom Exhaust Fans
Drill
Jigsaw
Combination tool
Screwdrivers
Caulk gun
Reciprocating saw
Pry bar
Screws
Double-gang retrofit electrical box
NM cable (14/2, 14/3)
Cable clamp
Hose clamps
Pipe insulation
Roofing cement
Self-sealing roofing nails
Shingles
Wire connectors
Switch and timer

Eye protection
Most exhaust fans are installed in the center of the bathroom ceiling or over
the toilet area. A fan installed over the tub or shower area must be rated for
use in wet areas. You can usually wire a fan that just has a light fixture into
a main bathroom lighting circuit (but not into a dedicated bathroom
receptacle circuit). Units with built-in heat lamps or blowers require
separate circuits. Extending a branch circuit or adding a new branch to
install new receptacles, lights, switches, or equipment requires a permit.
If the fan you choose doesn’t come with a mounting kit, purchase one
separately. A mounting kit should include an exhaust hose (duct), a vent
tailpiece, and an exterior terminal.
Three common places to terminate the exhaust are the roof, a soffit, or a
sidewall. The instructions in this book are for a shingle roof covering. You
should have a roofer install the exhaust termination if you have any other
roofing material or if you are not comfortable walking on your roof.
A soffit exhaust involves routing the duct to a soffit (roof overhang) where
it is connected to a terminal that directs the exhaust outside. While soffit
exhausts are allowed, they are not recommended, because the moisture can
be drawn back into the attic through the soffit vents. Check with the
exhaust fan manufacturer for instructions about how to run and terminate
the exhaust duct and to determine the required duct diameter and maximum
length.
To prevent moisture damage, always terminate the exhaust duct outside

your home—never into your attic.
Fan rating (cubic ft. per minute) Sone rating
Check the information label attached to each exhaust fan unit.

The minimum rating is 50 CFM; larger baths may need up to 100
CFM. The sone rating refers to quietness rated on a scale of 1 to
7; quieter is lower.
Exhaust termination Rafter Exhaust tailpiece Duct insulation
Exhaust duct Roof sheathing NM cable from power source
Ceiling joist Insulation
Bathroom exhaust fans must be exhausted to the outdoors, either

through the roof or through a wall. Three-inch-diameter flexible
duct is not allowed for bathroom exhaust fans. Four-inch-
diameter flexible duct is allowed for up to 56 feet without bends
for 50 cfm fans. Use fan manufacturer’s installation instructions
for duct type and length.
images How to Install a Bathroom Exhaust Fan
Position the fan unit against a ceiling joist. Outline the fan onto
the ceiling surface. Remove the unit, drill pilot holes at the
corners of the outline, and cut out the area with a jigsaw or
drywall saw.
Remove the grille from the fan unit, and then position the unit
against the joist with the edge recessed ¼" from the finished
surface of the ceiling (so the grille can be flush mounted). Attach
the unit to the joist using drywall screws.
images
VARIATION: For fans with heaters or light fixtures, some

manufacturers recommend using 2× lumber to build dams
between the ceiling joists to keep the insulation at least 6" away
from the fan unit.
3 Switch box location
Mark and cut an opening for a double-gang box on the wall next
to the latch side of the bathroom door, and then run a 14/3 NM
cable from the switch cutout to the fan unit. Run a 14/2 NM cable
from the power source to the cutout.
Strip 10" of sheathing from the ends of the cables, and then feed
the cables into a double-gang retrofit switch box so at least ½" of
sheathing extends into the box. Clamp the cables in place.
Tighten the mounting screws until the box is secure.
Strip 10" of sheathing from the end of the cable at the unit, and
then attach a cable clamp to the cable. Insert the cable into the fan
unit. From the inside of the unit, screw a locknut onto the
threaded end of the clamp.
Mark the exit location in the roof next to a rafter for the exhaust
duct. Drill a pilot hole, and then saw through the sheathing and
roofing material with a reciprocating saw to make the cutout for
the exhaust tailpiece.
7 Exhaust termination flange
Remove a section of shingles from around the cutout, leaving the

roofing paper intact. Remove enough shingles to create an
exposed area that is at least the size of the exhaust termination
flange.
8 Exhaust tailpiece
Attach a hose clamp to the rafter next to the roof cutout about 1"
below the roof sheathing (top). Insert the exhaust tailpiece into
the cutout and through the hose clamp, and then tighten the clamp
screw (bottom).
9
Slide one end of the exhaust duct over the tailpiece, and slide the
other end over the outlet on the fan unit. Slip hose clamps or
straps around each end of the duct, and tighten the clamps. Wrap
the exhaust duct with pipe insulation. Insulation prevents moist
air inside the duct from condensing and dripping down into the
fan motor.
10
Apply roofing cement to the bottom of the exhaust termination

flange, and then slide the termination over the tailpiece. Nail the
termination flange in place with self-sealing roofing nails, and
then patch in shingles around the cover.
11 Grounding wire Single-pole switch (light) Device (fan)

wires Neutrals
Turn power off and test for power. Make the following wire
connections at the fan unit: the black circuit wire from the timer
to the wire lead for the fan motor; the red circuit wire from the
single-pole switch (see step 14) to the wire lead for the light
fixture in the unit; the white neutral circuit wire to the neutral
wire lead; the circuit grounding wire to the grounding lead on the
fan unit. Make all connections with wire connectors. Attach the
cover plate over the unit when the wiring is completed.
12
Connect the light plug to the built-in receptacle on the wire

connection box. Attach the fan grille to the frame using the
mounting clips included with the fan kit.
NOTE: If you removed the wall and ceiling surfaces for the installation,
install new surfaces before completing this step.
13 LOAD to fan motor Grounding wires Neutrals LOAD to fan

light CIRCUIT from electrical-panel power supply (line side)
Turn power off and test for power. At the switch box, add black
pigtail wires to one screw terminal on the timer and to one screw
terminal on the single-pole switch; add a green grounding pigtail
to the groundling screw on the switch. Make the following wire
connections: the black circuit wire from the power source to the
black pigtail wires; the black circuit wire from the exhaust fan to
the remaining screw on the timer; the red circuit wire from the
exhaust fan to the remaining screw on the switch. Join the white
wires with a wire connector. Join the grounding wires with a
green wire connector.
14
Tuck the wires into the switch box, and then attach the switch and
timer to the box. Attach the cover plate and timer dial. Turn on
the power.
images
Range Hoods
Hammer
Jigsaw
Screwdrivers
Drill/driver & bits
Utility knife
Circular saw
Caulk gun
Exhaust exterior termination

Range hood
Galvanized sheet metal ducts and fittings
Wire connectors
Sheet metal screws
Foil tape
Plastic roof cement
Caulk
Eye protection
Range hoods do more than just get rid of cooking odors. Their most
important job is to reduce the amount of water vapor in the air that’s
generated by routine cooking. The pot of water that boils for 30 minutes
before you remember to drop in the pasta adds a lot of water vapor into
your house. Usually the results are innocent enough. But prolonged periods
of high moisture can lead to mildew and other molds that can stain your
walls and ceilings and possibly make family members sick.
The hardest part of adding a range hood is installing the ductwork between
the hood and the outside of your house. Always use galvanized steel,
copper, or stainless-steel ducts. Never use flexible duct, including flexible
metal duct. If the range is located on an outside wall, the best choice is to
run the duct from the back of the hood straight through the wall. If you
have wood siding, this job is not difficult. But if you have brick or stone,
plan on spending several hours to cut this hole.
If the range is on an interior wall, the preferred route is usually from the top
of the hood through the roof. It’s also possible to put the duct into the attic,
then across the ceiling (between two rafters or trusses) and out through an
overhanging soffit. Follow the hood manufacturer’s instructions about the
size and length of the duct. A duct that is too long or too small will not
work well and may be a grease fire hazard.
Consult the local code and manufacturer’s installation requirements. You
may need to power the hood with a dedicated 20-amp circuit. If your range
hood includes a microwave oven, be sure to read the installation
instructions, preferably before you buy the microwave. You may need a
different cabinet above the range. Inspectors may not approve microwaves
that are too close to the range.
images
A range hood captures steam and airborne food particles and

draws them directly out of your house through an exhaust duct.
For slide-in ranges, the hood usually is installed under a short
cabinet that contains the ductwork connection.
images
Range Hoods
Range Hoods Wall termination Elbow fitting Range hood Sheet

metal duct Wood panels Liner
Cabinet-mounted range hoods draw steam upward and out of the

house through a wall-mounted or roof-mounted termination.
images
Wall-mounted range hoods function in the same manner as

cabinet mounted, but they are not integrated into the kitchen
cabinet system.
Blower unit
Downdraft exhaust pulls steam downward and exhausts it out

through a wall exhaust. While leaving the space above the
stovetop uncluttered, these exhausts are much less efficient (in
large part because steam naturally rises).
images
Island exhausts hang down from ceiling-mounted ductwork and
draw steam and odors up from stovetops that are installed in
kitchen islands. They typically have a very contemporary
appearance.
images How to Install a Range Hood
Install the sheet metal duct in the wall first, and then cut a hole in
the back of the range hood cabinet and mount the cabinet over the
duct. Cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to match the opening
on the top of the hood. The range hood often comes with
templates to help you cut holes in the right place.
Make sure the circuit power is turned off at the service panel and
test for power. Then join the power cable wires to the lead wires
inside the range hood. Use wire connectors for this job.
Get someone to help lift the range hood into place and hold it
there while you attach it. Drive two screws through both sides
and into the adjacent cabinets. If the hood is slightly small for the
opening, slip a shim between the hood and the walls, trying to
keep the gaps even.
Run ductwork from the cabinet to the exhaust exit point. Use two
45° adjustable elbows to join the duct in the wall to the top of the
range hood. Use sheet metal screws and foil tape to hold all parts
together and keep them from moving. Connect the duct securely
to the fan outlet, and connect all sections so they do not leak. A
leaky connection can allow grease-laden air to collect on the
wood and start a fire.
images
Exhaust Termination Locations
images
Wall termination: If the duct comes out through the sidewall of

the house, install a vertical termination hood. Make sure to seal
around the perimeter of the hood with exterior caulk. Don’t locate
the termination too close to a window, or the fumes will circulate
back into the home. Comply with the siding manufacturer’s
instructions for flashing these wall terminations.
images
Masonry wall termination: You can run ductwork out through an

exterior wall made of brick or stucco, but it is a lot of work. You
need to cut an opening in the wall with a masonry saw or chip
one with a cold chisel, and then attach the termination hood with
masonry nails.
images
Soffit termination: If the duct goes through an overhang soffit,

you’ll need a transition fitting to connect the round duct to a short
piece of rectangular duct. Once these parts are installed, add a
protective grille to keep animals and insects from getting into the
duct. Don’t locate the termination near a soffit ventilation
opening; the fumes and moisture will be drawn back into the
attic.
images
Roof termination: For ducts that pass through the roof, cut an
access hole through the roofing and sheathing, and then install a
weatherproof cap on top of the duct and under the roofing
shingles. Make a waterproof seal by caulking the cap with plastic
roof cement. If you don’t have much roofing experience, consult
a roofing manual for some more information on this step. Have a
roofer do this if you have a roof covering other than shingles or if
your roof is steep or high. Also see here.
images
Backup Power Supply

Installing a backup generator is an invaluable way to prepare your family
for emergencies. The simplest backup power system is a portable gas-
powered generator and an extension cord or two. A big benefit of this
approach is that you can run a refrigerator and a few worklights during a
power outage with a generator that can also be transported to remote job
sites or on camping trips when it’s not doing emergency backup duty. This
is also the least expensive way to provide some backup power for your
home. You can purchase a generator at most home centers and be up and
running in a matter of hours. If you take this approach, it is critically
important that you make certain any loads being run by your generator are
disconnected from the utility power source.
The next step up is to incorporate a manual transfer switch for your

portable generator. Transfer switches are permanently hardwired to your
service panel. They are mounted on either the interior or the exterior of
your house between the generator and the service panel. You provide a
power feed from the generator into the switch. The switch is wired to
selected essential circuits in your house, allowing you to power lights,
furnace blowers, and other loads that can’t easily be run with an extension
cord. But perhaps the most important job a transfer switch performs is to
disconnect the utility power. If the inactive utility power line is attached to
the service panel, “backfeed” of power from your generator to the utility
line can occur when the generator kicks in. This condition could be fatal to
line workers who are trying to restore power. The potential for backfeed is
the main reason many municipalities insist that only a licensed electrician
hook up a transfer switch. Most also require a permit. Using a transfer
switch not installed by a professional may also void the warranty of the
switch and the generator.
Automatic transfer switches turn on the generator and switch off the utility
supply when they detect a significant drop in line voltage. They may be
installed with portable generators, provided the generator is equipped with
an electric starter.
Large standby generators that resemble central air conditioners are the top
of the line in backup power supply systems. Often fueled by home natural
gas lines that offer a bottomless fuel source or in-yard propane tanks,
standby generators are made in sizes with as much as 20 to 40 kilowatts of
output—enough to supply all of the power needs of a 5,000-square-foot
home.
NEC requirements for generators include that the generator receptacles

should be GFCI protected. The generator should be equipped with a means
to shut it down in an emergency and render it incapable of restarting
without a manual reset.
images
Generators have a range of uses. Large hardwired models can

provide instant emergency power for a whole house. Smaller
models (below) are convenient for occasional short-term backup
as well as job sites or camping trips.
images
Choosing a Backup Generator
images
A 2,000- to 5,000-watt gas-powered generator and a few

extension cords can power lamps and an appliance or two during
shorter-term power outages. Appliances must not be connected to
household wiring and the generator simultaneously. Never plug a
generator into an outlet. Never operate a generator indoors. Run
extension cords through a garage door.
images
A permanent transfer switch patches electricity from a large
portable generator through to selected household circuits via an
inlet at your service panel (inset), allowing you to power
hardwired fixtures and appliances with the generator.
images
For full, on-demand backup service, install a large standby

generator wired to an automatic transfer panel. In the event of a
power outage, the household system instantly switches to the
generator.
images
A Typical Backup System
Portable backup generator Service entry cables Main panel

Inlet box Manual transfer switch
Backup generators supply power to a manual transfer switch that

disconnects the house from the main service wires and routes
power from the generator through selected household circuits.
images
Choosing a Generator
Choosing a generator for your home’s needs requires a few calculations.

The chart below gives an estimate of the size of generator typically
recommended for a house of a certain size. You can get a more accurate
number by adding up the power consumption (the watts) of all the circuits
or devices to be powered by a generator. It’s also important to keep in mind
that, for most electrical appliances, the amount of power required at the
moment you flip the ON switch is greater than the number of watts
required to keep the device running. For instance, though an air conditioner
may run on 5,400 watts of power, it will require a surge of 7,200 watts at
startup (the power range required to operate an appliance is usually listed
somewhere on the device itself). These two numbers are called run watts
(or Rated Load Amps, RLA) and surge watts (or Locked Rotor Amps,
LRA). Generators are typically sold according to run watts (a 5,000-watt
generator can sustain 5,000 watts). They are also rated for a certain number
of surge watts (a 5,000-watt generator may be able to produce a surge of
10,000 watts). If the surge watts aren’t listed, ask, or check the manual.
Some generators can’t develop many more surge watts than run watts;
others can produce twice as much surge as run wattage.
It’s not necessary to buy a generator large enough to match the surge
potential of all your circuits (you won’t be turning everything on
simultaneously), but surge watts should factor in your purchasing decision.
If you will be operating the generator at or near capacity, it is also a wise
practice to stagger startups for appliances.
You will need a large amount of gasoline to power a gasoline generator for
more than a day or so. Gasoline goes bad over time, so you will need to
stock up on gas before a long outage. Be sure to store gasoline well away
from any living space. Portable generators powered by propane are
available, and may be a better choice for some. Propane can last in a tank
for years.
SIZE OF HOUSE (IN RECOMMENDED GENERATOR SIZE

SQUARE FEET) (IN KILOWATTS)
Up to 2,700 5–11
2,701–3,700 14–16
3,701–4,700 20
4,701–7,000 42–47
images
Types of Transfer Switches
images
Cord-connected transfer switches (shown above) are hardwired to

the service panel (in some cases they’re installed after the service
panel and operate only selected circuits). These switches contain
a male receptacle for a power supply cord connected to the
generator. Automatic transfer switches (not shown) detect voltage
drop-off in the main power line and switch over to the emergency
power source.
images
When using a cord-connected switch, consider mounting an inlet

box to the exterior wall. This will allow you to connect a
generator without running a cord into the house.
images GENERATOR TIPS
images
If you’ll need to run sensitive electronics such as computers or

home theater equipment, look for a generator with power inverter
technology that dispenses “clean power” with a stable sine wave
pattern.
images
A generator that will output 240-volt service is required to run

most central air conditioners. If your generator has variable
output (120/240), make sure the switch is set to the correct output
voltage.
images
Running & Maintaining a Backup System
Even with a fully automatic standby generator system fueled by natural gas
or propane, you will need to conduct some regular maintenance and testing
to make sure all systems are ready in the event of power loss. If you’re
depending on a portable generator and extension cords or a standby
generator with a manual transfer switch, you’ll also need to know the
correct sequence of steps to follow in a power emergency. Switches and
panels also need to be tested on a regular basis, as directed in your owner’s
manual. And be sure that all switches (both interior and exterior) are
housed in an approved enclosure box.
Pull-cord starter
Smaller portable generators often use pull cords instead of

electric starters.
Anatomy of a Portable Backup Generator
Fuel tank Built-in GFCI Built-in circuit breaker Voltage

selector AC power outlets Start switch Engine Oil dipstick
Portable generators use small gasoline engines to generate power.

A built-in electronics panel sets current to AC or DC and the
correct voltage. Most models will also include a built-in circuit
breaker to protect the generator from damage in the event it is
connected to too many loads. Better models include features such
as built-in GFCI protection. Larger portable generators may also
feature electric starter motors and batteries for push-button starts.
images
Operating a Manual System During an Outage
images
Plug the generator in at the inlet box. Make sure the other end of
the generator’s outlet cord is plugged into the appropriate outlet
on the generator (120-volt or 120/240-volt AC) and the generator
is switched to the appropriate voltage setting.
images
Start the generator with the pull cord or electric starter (if your
generator has one). Let the generator run for several minutes
before flipping the transfer switch.
images
Flip the manual transfer switch. Begin turning on loads one at a

time by flipping breakers on, starting with the ones that power
essential equipment. Do not overload the generator or the switch,
and do not run the generator at or near full capacity for more than
30 minutes at a time.
images
Maintaining & Operating an Automatic Standby Generator
images
If you choose to spend the money and install a dedicated standby

generator of 10,000 watts or more and operate it through an
automatic transfer switch or panel, you won’t need to lift a hand
when your utility power goes out. The system kicks in by itself.
However, you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
testing the system, changing the oil, and running the motor
periodically.
images
Installing a Transfer Switch

Voltage tester
Drill/driver
Screwdrivers
Hammer
Wire cutters
Cable ripper
Wire strippers
Level
Manual transfer switch
Screws
Wire connectors (yellow)
Standby power generator
A transfer switch is installed next to the main service panel to override the
normal electrical service with power from a backup generator during a
power outage. Manual transfer switches require an operator to change the
power source, while automatic switches detect the loss of power, start the
backup generator, and switch over to the backup power feed. Because the
amount of electricity created by a backup generator is not adequate to
power all of the electrical circuits in your house, you’ll need to designate a
few selected circuits to get backup current (see here).
Note: This project requires a permit and inspection of all work.
images
A manual transfer switch connects emergency circuits in your

main panel to a standby generator.
images
One flip of a switch reassigns the power source for each critical
circuit so your backup generator can keep your refrigerator,
freezer, and important lights running during a utility power
outage.
images SELECTING BACKUP CIRCUITS

Before you purchase a backup generator, determine which loads you will
want to power from your generator in the event of a power loss. Generally
you will want to power your refrigerator, freezer, and maybe a few lights.
Add up the running wattage ratings of the appliances you will power up to
determine how large your backup generator needs to be. Because the
startup wattage of many appliances is higher than the running wattage,
avoid starting all circuits at the same time—it can cause an overload
situation with your generator. Here are some approximate running wattage
guidelines (see here for more information on calculating electrical loads):
• Refrigerator: 750 watts

• Forced air furnace: 1,100 to 1,500 watts
• Incandescent lights: 60 watts per bulb (CFL and LED lights use less
wattage)
• Sump pump: 800 to 1,000 watts
• Well pump: 2,000 to 5,000 watts
• Garage door opener: 550 to 1,100 watts
• Television: 300 watts
Add the wattage values of all the loads you want to power, and multiply the
sum by 1.25. This will give you the minimum wattage your generator must
produce. Portable standby generators typically output 5,000 to 7,500 watts.
Most larger, stationary generators can output 10,000 to 20,000 watts (10 to
20 kilowatts).
images How to Install a Manual Transfer Switch
1 Warning: Do not touch these terminals (lugs).
Turn off the main power breaker in your electrical service panel.
CAUTION: The service wires and terminals (lugs) that feed the
main breaker remain live even when the main breaker is off.
images
Determine which household circuits are critical for emergency

usage during a power outage. Typically this will include the
refrigerator, freezer, furnace, and at least one light or small-
appliance circuit.
Match your critical circuits with circuit inlet on your prewired

transfer switch. Try to balance the load as best you can in the
transfer switch: For example, if your refrigerator is on the
leftmost switch circuit, connect your freezer to the circuit farthest
to the right. Double-pole (240-volt) circuits will require two 120-
volt circuit connections. Also make sure that 15-amp and 20-amp
circuits are not mismatched with one another.
Select and remove a knockout at the bottom of the main service

panel box. Make sure to choose a knockout that is sized to match
the connector on the flexible conduit coming from the transfer
switch.
Feed the wires from the transfer switch into the knockout hole,
taking care not to damage the insulation. You will note that each
wire is labeled according to which circuit in the switch box it
feeds.
Secure the flexible conduit from the switch box to the main
service panel using a locknut and a bushing where required.
Attach the transfer switch box to the wall so the closer edge is
about 18" away from the center of the main service panel. Use
whichever connectors make sense for your wall type.
8
Remove the breaker for the first critical circuit from the main
service panel box, and disconnect the hot wire lead from the lug
on the breaker.
Locate the red wire for the switch box circuit that corresponds to
the circuit you’ve disconnected. Attach the red wire to the
breaker you’ve just removed, and then reinstall the breaker.
10
Locate the black wire from the same transfer switch circuit, and
twist it together with the old feed wire, using a yellow wire
connector. Tuck the wires neatly out of the way at the edges of
the box. Proceed to the next circuit, and repeat the process.
11
If any of your critical circuits are 240-volt circuits, attach the red
leads from the two transfer switch circuits to the double-pole
breaker. The two circuits originating in the transfer switch should
be next to one another, and their switches should be connected
with a handle tie. If you have no 240-volt circuits, you may
remove the preattached handle tie and use the circuits
individually.
12
Once you have made all circuit connections, attach the white
neutral wire from the transfer switch to an opening in the neutral
terminal bar of the main service panel.
13
Attach the green ground wire from the transfer switch to an open
port on the grounding bar in your main service panel. This should
complete the installation of the transfer switch. Replace the cover
on the service panel box, and make sure to fill in the circuit map
on your switch box.
14
Begin testing the transfer switch by making sure all of the

switches on it are set to the LINE setting. The power should still
be OFF at the main panel breakers.
images STANDBY GENERATORS
images
Make sure your standby generator is operating properly and has

been installed professionally. See here for information on
choosing a generator that is sized appropriately for your needs.
15
Before turning your generator on, attach the power cord from the
generator to the switch box. Never attach or detach a generator
cord with the generator running. Turn your standby power
generator on, and let it run for a minute or two.
16
Flip each circuit switch on the transfer switch box to GEN, one at
a time. Try to maintain balance by moving back and forth from
circuits on the left and right side. Do not turn all circuits on at the
same time. Observe the onboard wattage meters as you engage
each circuit, and try to keep the wattage levels in balance. When
you have completed testing the switch, turn the switches back to
LINE, and then shut off your generator.
images
Outbuildings
Spray paint
Trenching shovel (4"-wide blade)
4" metal junction box
Metal L-fittings (2) and conduit nipple for conduit
Wood screws
Conduit with watertight threaded and compression fittings
Wrenches
Hacksaw
90° sweeps for conduit (2)
Plastic conduit bushings (2)
Pipe straps
Silicone caulk and caulk gun
Double-gang boxes, metal (2)
One exterior receptacle box (with cover)
One 20-amp weather-resistant receptacle
One 20-amp receptacle
Single-pole switches (2)
Interior ceiling light fixture and metal fixture box
Exterior motion-detector fixture and plastic fixture box

EMT metal conduit and fittings for inside the shed
Utility knife
UF two-wire cable (12 gauge)
THNN wire (12 gauge)
20-amp GFCI circuit breaker
Wire strippers
Pliers
Screwdrivers
Wire connectors
Hand tamper
Schedule 80 conduit
Eye protection
Nothing improves the convenience and usefulness of an outbuilding more

than electrifying it. Running a new underground circuit from your house to
an outbuilding lets you add receptacles and light fixtures both inside the
outbuilding and on its exterior. If you run power to an outbuilding, you are
required to install at least one receptacle.
Adding one or two 120-volt circuits is not complicated, but every aspect of
the project is strictly governed by local building codes. Therefore, once
you’ve mapped out the job and have a good idea of what’s involved, visit
your local building department to discuss your plans and obtain a permit for
the work.
This project demonstrates standard techniques for running a circuit cable

from the house exterior to a shed, plus the wiring and installation of devices
inside the shed. To add a new breaker and make the final circuit
connections to your home’s main service panel, see here.
First, determine how much current you will need. For basic electrical
needs, such as powering a standard light fixture and small appliances or
power tools, a 120-volt, 20-amp circuit should be sufficient. A small
workshop may require one or two 120-volt, 20-amp circuits. If you need
any 240-volt circuits or more than two 120-volt, 20-amp circuits, you will
need to install at least a 60-amp subpanel with appropriate feeder wires.
Installing a subpanel in an outbuilding is similar to installing one inside
your home, but there are some important differences.
You may use #12 copper wire for one 120-volt, 20-amp circuit. Use #10
copper wire for two 120-volt, 20-amp circuits. Also, if the shed is more
than 150 feet away from the house, you may need heavier-gauge cable to
account for voltage drop.
Most importantly, don’t forget to call before you dig. Have all utility and
service lines on your property marked even before you make serious
project plans. This is critical for your safety of course, and it may affect
where you can run the circuit cable.
images
Adding an electrical circuit to an outbuilding such as this greatly

expands the activities the building will support and is also a great
benefit for home security.
Ceiling light EMT conduit Security light Weather-resistant

receptacle 90° sweep Switches EMT conduit Rigid conduit from
junction box L-body IMC or schedule 80 conduit IMC or
schedule 80 conduit 90° sweep UF cable
A basic outdoor circuit starts with a waterproof fitting at the

house wall connected to a junction box inside. The underground
circuit cable—rated UF (underground feeder)—runs in a 12"-
deep trench and is protected from exposure at both ends by metal
or PVC conduit. Inside the shed, standard NM cable runs through
metal conduit to protect it from damage (not necessary if you will
be adding interior wallcoverings). All receptacles must have
GFCI protection; this is provided by a GFCI circuit breaker.
images How to Wire an Outbuilding
Identify the circuit’s exit point at the house and entry point at the
shed and mark them. Mark the path of the trench between the exit
and entry points using spray paint. Make the route as direct as
possible. Dig the trench to the depth required by local code
(typically 12" deep for a GFCI-protected circuit) using a narrow
trenching shovel.
From outside, drill a hole through the exterior wall and the rim
joist at the exit point for the cable (you’ll probably need to install
a bit extender or an extra-long bit in your drill). Make the hole
just large enough to accommodate the L-body conduit fitting and
conduit nipple.
Assemble the conduit and junction box fittings that will penetrate
the wall. Here, we attached a 12" piece of ¾" PVC conduit and a
sweep to a metal junction box with a compression fitting and then
inserted the conduit into the hole drilled in the rim joist. The
junction box is attached to the floor joist.
From outside, seal the hole around the conduit with expandable
spray foam or caulk, and then attach the free end of the conduit to
the back of a waterproof L-body fitting. Mount the L-body fitting
to the house exterior with the open end facing downward.
5
Cut a length of PVC conduit to extend from the L-fitting down

into the trench using a hacksaw. Deburr the cut edges of the
conduit. Secure the conduit to the L-fitting, and then attach a 90°
sweep to the bottom end of the conduit using compression
fittings. Anchor the conduit to the wall with a corrosion-resistant
pipe strap.
Inside the shed, drill a ¾"-diameter hole in the shed wall. On the
interior of the shed, mount a junction box with a knockout
removed to allow the cable to enter through the hole. On the
exterior side directly above the end of the UF trench, mount an
exterior-rated receptacle box with cover. The plan (and your plan
may differ) is to bring power into the shed through the hole in the
wall behind the exterior receptacle.
Run conduit from the exterior box down into the trench. Fasten
the conduit to the outbuilding with a strap. Add a 90° sweep and
bushing, as before. Secure the conduit to the box with an offset
fitting. Anchor the conduit with pipe straps, and seal the entry
hole with caulk.
Run UF cable from the house to the outbuilding. Feed one end of
the UF circuit cable up through the sweep and conduit and into
the L-fitting at the house (the back or side of the fitting is
removable to facilitate cabling). Run the cable through the wall
and into the junction box, leaving at least 12" of extra cable at the
end.
9
Lay the UF cable into the trench, making sure it is not twisted
and will not contact any sharp objects. Roll out the cable, and
then feed the other end of the cable up through the conduit and
into the receptacle box in the shed, leaving 12" of slack.
10
Inside the outbuilding, install the remaining boxes for the other
switches, receptacles, and lights. With the exception of plastic
receptacle boxes for exterior exposure, use metal boxes if you
will be connecting the boxes with metal conduit.
11
Connect the electrical boxes with conduit and fittings. Inside the
outbuilding, you may use inexpensive steel EMT to connect the
receptacle, switch, and fixture boxes. Once you’ve planned your
circuit routes, start by attaching couplings to all of the boxes.
12
Cut a length of conduit to fit between the coupling and the next
box or fitting in the run. If necessary, drill holes for the conduit
through the centers of the wall studs. Attach the conduit to the
fitting that you attached to the first box.
13
If you are surface-mounting the conduit or running it up or down

next to wall studs, secure it with straps no more than 3 ft. apart.
Use elbow fittings for 90° turns and setscrew couplings for
joining straight lengths as needed. Make holes through the wall
studs only as large as necessary to feed the conduit through.
14 THNN wire
Measure to find how much wire you’ll need for each run, and cut
pieces of THHN wire that are 1 or 2 feet longer than the
measurements. Before making L-turns with the conduit, feed the
wire through the first conduit run.
15
Feed the other ends of the wires into the next box or fitting in
line. It is much easier to feed wire into 45° and 90° elbows if they
have not been attached to the conduit yet. Continue feeding wire
into the conduit and fitting until you have reached the next box in
line.
16
Once you’ve reached the next box in line, coil the ends of the
wires and repeat the process with new wire for the next run. Keep
working until all of the wire is run and all of the conduit and
fittings are installed and secured. If you are running multiple feed
wires into a single box, write the origin or destination on a piece
of masking tape and stick it to each wire end.
17
Make the wiring connections at the receptacles. Connect the

receptacles with pigtails, including grounding pigtails for the
receptacles and the metal boxes. Install the receptacles and cover
plates.
NOTE: Your code may require an in-use rated receptacle box cover (see
here).
Neutral wires Grounding wires Hot wires Receptacle grounding

screw Box grounding screw
VARIATION: Installing a GFCI breaker for the new circuit at the

main service panel is the best way to protect the circuit and
allows you to use regular receptacles in the building, but an
alternative that is allowed in many areas is to run the service into
a GFCI-protected receptacle and then wire the other devices on
the circuit in series (see here). If you use this approach, only the
initial receptacle needs to be a GFCI receptacle; however, the
underground circuit cable will need to be at least 24" deep.
18
Run service from the last receptacle to the switch box for the
light fixture or fixtures. (If you anticipate a lot of load on the
circuit, you should probably run a separate circuit for the lights).
Twist the white neutral leads and grounding leads together and
cap them. Attach the black wires to the appropriate switches.
Install the switches and cover plate.
19
Install the light fixtures. For this shed, we installed a caged

ceiling light inside the shed and a motion-detector security light
on the exterior side (see here–here).
20
Run NM cable from the electrical box in the house at the start of
the new circuit to the main service panel. Use cable staples if you
are running the cable in floor joist cavities. If the cable is
mounted to the bottom of the floor joists or will be exposed, run
it through conduit.
21
At the service panel, feed the NM cable in through a cable clamp.

Arrange for your final electrical inspection before you install the
breaker. Then attach the wires to a new GFCI circuit breaker, and
install the breaker in an empty slot. Label the new circuit on the
circuit map.
22
Turn on the new circuit, and test all of the receptacles and
fixtures. If any of the fixtures or receptacles is not getting power,
check the connections first, and then test the receptacle or switch
for continuity with a multimeter. Backfill the trench.
images
Motion-Sensing Floodlights
Voltage tester
Jigsaw
Fish tape
Screwdrivers
Wire cutter
Cable ripper
Wire stripper
Caulk gun
Motion-sensing floodlight fixture
Old work (retrofit) electrical box
NM cable
Wire connectors
Eye protection
Most houses and garages have floodlights on their exteriors. You can easily
upgrade these fixtures so that they provide additional security by replacing
them with motion-sensing floodlights. Motion-sensing floods can be set up
to detect motion in a specific area—such as a walkway or driveway—and
then cast light into that area. And there are few things intruders like less
than the spotlight. These lights typically have timers that allow you to
control how long the light stays on and photosensors that prevent the light
from coming on during the day. Extending a branch circuit or adding a new
branch to install new receptacles, lights, or switches requires a permit.
images
A motion-sensing light fixture provides inexpensive and effective

protection against intruders. It has an infrared eye that triggers
the light fixture when a moving object crosses its path. Choose a
light fixture with a photo cell to prevent the light from turning on
in daylight; an adjustable timer to control how long the light stays
on; and range control to adjust the reach of the motion-sensor
eye.
images
An exterior floodlight with a motion sensor is an effective

security measure. Keep the motion sensor adjusted to cover only
the area you wish to secure—if the coverage area is too large, the
light will turn on frequently.
images How to Install a New Exterior Fixture Box
images
On the outside of the house, make the cutout for the motion-
sensor light fixture. Outline the light fixture box on the wall, drill
a pilot hole, and complete the cutout with a wallboard saw or
jigsaw.
images
Estimate the distance between the indoor switch box and the
outdoor motion-sensor box, and cut a length of NM cable about 2
ft. longer than this distance. Use a fish tape to pull the cable from
the switch box to the motion-sensor box. See here for tips on
running cable through finished walls.
Mounting bracket Retrofit box
Strip about 10" of outer insulation from the end of the cable using
a cable ripper. Open a knockout in the retrofit light fixture box
with a screwdriver. Insert the cable into the box so that at least ¼"
of outer sheathing reaches into the box. Apply a heavy bead of
silicone or polyurethane caulk to the flange of the electrical box
before attaching it to the wall.
Mounting screws
Insert the box into the cutout opening, and tighten the mounting
screws until the brackets draw the outside flange firmly against
the siding. Follow the siding manufacturer’s instructions about
flashing this wall pentration.
images How to Replace a Floodlight with a Motion-Sensor Light
Turn off power to the old fixture. To remove it, unscrew the
mounting screws on the part of the fixture attached to the wall.
There will probably be four of them. Carefully pull the fixture
away from the wall, exposing the wires. Don’t touch the wires
yet.
Before you touch any wires, use a voltage tester to verify that the
circuit is dead. With the light switch turned on, insert the tester’s
probe into the electrical box and hold the probe within ½" of the
wires inside to confirm that there is no voltage. Disconnect the
wire connectors, and remove the old fixture.
Examine the ends of the three wires coming from the box (one
white, one black, and one bare copper). They should be clean and
free of corrosion. If the ends are in poor condition, clip them off
and then strip ¾" of wire insulation with a combination tool.
4 Grounding clip
If the electrical box is nonmetallic and does has a metal

grounding clip, connect the circuit ground wire to the clip.
Otherwise, connect the ground wire to the fixture base (if it has a
grounding terminal), or connect the ground wire to the fixture’s
ground lead, using a wire connector.
Now you can attach the new fixture. Begin by sliding a rubber or
foam gasket (usually provided with the fixture) over the wires
and onto the flange of the electrical box. Set the new fixture on
top of a ladder or have a helper hold it while you make the wiring
connections. There may be as many as three white wires coming
from the fixture. Join all white wires, including the feed wire
from the house, using a wire connector.
Next, join the black wire from the box and the single black wire
from the fixture with a wire connector. You may see a couple of
black wires and a red wire already joined on the fixture. You can
ignore these in your installation.
7
Neatly tuck all the wires into the box so they are behind the
gasket. Align the holes in the gasket with the holes in the box,
and then position the fixture over the gasket so its mounting holes
are also aligned with the gasket. Press the fixture against the
gasket, and drive the four mounting screws into the box. Install
exterior-rated floodlights and restore power.
Test the fixture. You will still be able to turn it on and off with the
light switch inside. Flip the switch on and pass your hand in front
of the motion sensor. The light should come on. Adjust the
motion sensor to cover the traffic areas, and pivot the light head
to illuminate the intended area.
Repair Projects
“R epair” and
“wiring” are two words
you don’t see together
too much anymore. In
most cases of an
electrical failure, the
repair is to replace the
failed device. But many
repairs may be as simple
as reconnecting loose
wires or replacing a bad socket.
The electrical items that most frequently require
actual repairs are light fixtures. If you include lamps
and cords in this category, you’ve pretty much
covered it. Most electrical failures result from poorly
made connections in the original installation.
Exceptions are switches, which tend to wear out over
time and require replacement, and ceiling fans.
Ceiling fans are unique in that, like switches, they
contain moving parts—and rapidly moving parts at
that. Catching a switch pull chain on a moving blade
is the cause of many ceiling fan problems, along with
blades that have fallen out of balance and have begun
to wobble.
When replacing part of an electrical fixture, the
rule of thumb for finding the replacement part is to
remove the broken part and bring it with you to a
lighting or electrical supply store. Failing that, take
down the make and serial number of the fixture so
the clerk can look up part information for you.
In this chapter:
• Repairing Light Fixtures
• Repairing Chandeliers
• Repairing Ceiling Fans
• Repairing Fluorescent Lights
• Replacing Plugs & Cords
• Replacing a Lamp Socket
Repairing Light Fixtures
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Circuit tester
Screwdriver
Continuity tester
Combination tool
Replacement parts, as needed
L ight fixtures are attached permanently to

ceilings or walls. They include wall-hung sconces,
ceiling-hung globe fixtures, recessed light fixtures,
and chandeliers. Most light fixtures are easy to repair
using basic tools and inexpensive parts.
If a light fixture fails, always make sure the
lightbulb is screwed in tightly and is not burned out.
A faulty lightbulb is the most common cause of light
fixture failure. If the light fixture is controlled by a
wall switch, also check the switch as a possible
source of problems.
Light fixtures can fail because the sockets or
built-in switches wear out. Some fixtures have
sockets and switches that can be removed for minor
repairs. These parts are held to the base of the fixture
with mounting screws or clips. Other fixtures have
sockets and switches that are joined permanently to
the base. If this type of fixture fails, purchase and
install a new light fixture.
Damage to light fixtures often occurs because
homeowners install lightbulbs with wattage ratings
that are too high. Prevent overheating and light
fixture failures by using only lightbulbs that match
the wattage ratings printed on the fixtures.
Techniques for repairing fluorescent lights are
different from those for incandescent lights. Refer to
here–here to repair or replace a fluorescent light
fixture.
In a typical incandescent light fixture, a black hot wire is connected to a
brass screw terminal on the socket. Power flows to a small tab at the bottom
of the metal socket and through a metal filament inside the bulb. The power
heats the filament and causes it to glow. The current then flows through the
threaded portion of the socket and through the white neutral wire back to
the main service panel.
Before 1959, incandescent light fixtures (shown cutaway) often were
mounted directly to an electrical box or to plaster lath. Electrical codes now
require that fixtures be attached to mounting straps that are anchored to the
electrical boxes. If you have a light fixture attached to plaster lath, install an
approved electrical box with a mounting strap to support the fixture.
PROBLEM REPAIR
Wall- or ceiling- 1. Check for faulty light bulb.

mounted fixture 2. Check wall switch and replace, if needed.
flickers or does 3. Check for loose wire connections in electrical
not light. box.
4. Test socket and replace, if needed (shown here).
5. Replace light fixture.
Built-in switch 1. Check for faulty light bulb.
on fixture does 2. Check for loose wire connections on switch.
not work. 3. Replace switch.
4. Replace light fixture.
Chandelier 1. Check for faulty light bulb.
flickers or does 2. Check wall switch and replace, if needed.
not light. 3. Check for loose wire connections in electrical
box.
4. Test sockets and fixture wires, and replace, if
needed.
Recessed fixture 1. Check for faulty light bulb.
flickers or does 2. Check wall switch, and replace, if needed.
not light. 3. Check for loose wire connections in electrical
box.
4. Test fixture, and replace, if needed.
5. Wait a few minutes. If light activates, fixture is
overheating. Remove insulation from around
fixture.
How to Remove a Light Fixture & Test a
Socket
Turn off the power to the light fixture at the main panel. Remove the
lightbulb and any shade or globe, then remove the mounting screws
holding the fixture base and the electrical box or mounting strap.
Carefully pull the fixture base away from the box.
Test for power with a voltage tester. The tester should not glow. If it
does, there is still power entering the box. Return to the panel and turn
off power to the correct circuit.
Disconnect the light fixture base by loosening the screw terminals. If

the fixture has wire leads instead of screw terminals, remove the light
fixture base by unscrewing the wire connectors.
Adjust the metal tab at the bottom of the fixture socket by prying it up
slightly with a small screwdriver. This adjustment will improve the
contact between the socket and the lightbulb.
Test the socket (shown cutaway) by attaching the clip of a continuity

tester to the hot screw terminal (or black wire lead) and touching probe
of the tester to the metal tab in the bottom of the socket. The tester
should glow. If not, the socket is faulty and must be replaced.
Attach the tester clip to the neutral screw terminal (or white wire lead),
and touch the probe to the threaded portion of the socket. The tester
should glow. If not, the socket is faulty and must be replaced. If the
socket is permanently attached, replace the fixture.
How to Replace a Socket
Remove the old light fixture. Remove the socket from the fixture. The
socket may be held by a screw, clip, or retaining ring. Disconnect wires
attached to the socket.
Purchase an identical replacement socket. Connect the white wire to
the silver screw terminal on the socket, and connect the black wire to the
brass screw terminal. Attach the socket to the fixture base, and reinstall
the fixture.
How to Test & Replace a Built-In Light
Switch
Remove the light fixture. Unscrew the retaining ring holding the
switch.
Label the wires connected to the switch leads. Disconnect the switch
leads, and remove the switch.
Test the switch by attaching the clip of the continuity tester to one of
the switch leads and holding the tester probe to the other lead. Operate
the switch control. If the switch is good, the tester will glow when the
switch is in one position but not both.
If the switch is faulty, purchase and install a duplicate switch. Remount
the light fixture, and turn on the power at the main service panel.
Repairing Chandeliers
R epairing a chandelier requires special care.
Because chandeliers are heavy, it is a good idea to
work with a helper when removing a chandelier.
Support the fixture to prevent its weight from pulling
against the wires.
Chandeliers have two fixture wires that are
threaded through the support chain from the electrical
box to the hollow base of the chandelier. The socket
wires connect to the fixture wires inside this base.
Fixture wires are identified as hot and neutral.
Look closely for raised ribs on one of the wires. This
is the marked neutral wire that is connected to the
white circuit wire and white socket wire. The other
fixture wire is smooth or unmarked; it is hot and is
connected to the black wires.
If you have a new chandelier, it may have a
grounding wire that runs through the support chain to
the electrical box. If this wire is present, make sure it
is connected to the grounding wires in the electrical
box.
How to Repair a Chandelier
Label any lights that are not working using masking tape. Turn off
power to the fixture at the panel. Remove lightbulbs and all shades or
globes.
Unscrew the retaining nut, and lower the decorative coverplate away
from the electrical box. Most chandeliers are supported by a threaded
nipple attached to a mounting strap.
MOUNTING VARIATION: Some chandeliers are supported only
by the cover plate that is bolted to the electrical box mounting strap.
These types do not have a threaded nipple.
Test for power with a voltage tester. The tester should not glow. If it
does, turn off power to the correct circuit at the panel.
Disconnect fixture wires by removing the wire connectors. Unscrew

the threaded nipple and carefully place the chandelier on a flat surface.
Remove the cap from the bottom of the chandelier, exposing the wire
connections inside the hollow base. Disconnect the socket wires and
fixture wires.
Test the socket by attaching the clip of the continuity tester to the black
socket wire and touching the probe to the tab in the socket. Repeat with
the socket threads and the white socket wire. If the tester does not glow,
the socket must be replaced.
Remove a faulty socket by loosening any mounting screws or clips and
pulling the socket and socket wires out of the fixture arm. Purchase and
install a new chandelier socket, threading the socket wires through the
fixture arm.
Test each fixture wire by attaching the clip of the continuity tester to
one end of the wire and touching the probe to other end. If the tester
does not glow, the wire must be replaced. Install new wires, if needed,
then reassemble and rehang the chandelier.
Repairing Ceiling Fans
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdriver
Combination tool
Replacement switch
Voltage tester
C eiling fans contain rapidly moving parts,

making them more susceptible to trouble than many
other electrical fixtures. Installation is a relatively
simple matter, but repairing a ceiling fan can be very
frustrating. The most common problems you’ll
encounter are balance and noise issues and switch
failure, usually precipitated by the pull chain
breaking. In most cases, both problems can be
corrected without removing the fan from the ceiling.
But if you have difficulty on ladders or simply don’t
care to work overhead, consider removing the fan
when replacing the switch.
Ceiling fans are subject to a great deal of vibration and stress, so it’s not
uncommon for switches and motors to fail. Minimize wear and tear by
making sure blades are in balance so the fan doesn’t wobble.
How to Troubleshoot Blade Wobble
Start by checking and tightening all hardware used to attach the

blades to the mounting arms and the mounting arms to the motor.
Hardware tends to loosen over time, and this is frequently the cause of
wobble.
If wobble persists, try switching around two of the blades. Often this is
all it takes to get the fan back into balance. If a blade is damaged or
warped, replace it.
OPTION: Fan blade wobble also may be corrected using small
weights that are affixed to the tops of the blades. For an easy DIY
fix, you can use electrical tape and washer and some trial and error.
You can also purchase fan blade weight kits for a couple of dollars.
These kits include clips for marking the position of the weights as
you relocate them as well as self-adhesive weights that can be stuck
to the blade once you have found the sweet spot.
How to Fix a Loose Wire Connection
A leading cause of fan failure is loose wire connections. To inspect

these connections, first shut off the power to the fan. Remove the fan
blades to gain access, and then remove the canopy that covers the
ceiling box and fan mounting bracket. Most canopies are secured with
screws on the outside shell. Have a helper hold the fan body while you
remove the screws so it won’t fall.
Once the canopy is lowered, you’ll see black, white, green, copper, and
possibly blue wires. Hold a voltage tester within ½" of these wires with
the wall switch that controls the fan in the ON position. The black and
blue wires should cause the tester to beep if power is present.
Shut off power to the fan’s circuit in the service panel, and test the
wires by touching a voltage tester to each one. If the tester beeps or
lights up, then the circuit is still live and is not safe to work on. When
the tester does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and may be
worked upon.
When you have confirmed that there is no power, check all the wire
connections to make certain each is tight and making good contact. You
may be able to see that a connection has come apart and needs to be
remade. But even if you see one bad connection, check them all by
gently tugging on the wire connectors. If the wires pull out of the wire
connector or the connection feels loose, unscrew the wire connector
from the wires. Turn the power back on and see if the problem has been
solved.
How to Replace a Ceiling Fan Pull-Chain
Switch
Turn off the power at the panel. Use a screwdriver to remove the three
to four screws that secure the bottom cap on the fan switch housing.
Lower the cap to expose the wires that supply power to the pull-chain
switch.
Test the wires by touching a voltage tester to each one. If the tester
beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live and is not safe to work on.
When the tester does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and may be
worked upon.
Locate the switch unit (the part that the pull chain used to be attached
to if it broke off); it’s probably made of plastic. You’ll need to replace
the whole switch. Fan switches are connected with three to eight wires,
depending on the number of speed settings.
Attach a small piece of tape to each wire that enters the switch, and
write an identifying number on the tape. Start at one side of the switch,
and label the wires in the order they’re attached.
Disconnect the old switch wires, in most cases by cutting the wires off
as close to the old switch as possible. Unscrew the retaining nut that
secures the switch to the switch housing.
BUYER’S TIP
Here’s how to buy a new switch. Bring the old switch to
the hardware store or home center, and find an identical
new switch—one with the same number and color of
wires. It should also attach to the fan motor wires in the
same way (slots or screw terminals or with integral wires
and wire connectors) and attach to the fan in the same
way. If you are unable to locate an identical switch, find
the owner’s manual for your ceiling fan and contact the
manufacturer. Or, find the brand and model number of the
fan and order a switch from a ceiling fan dealer or
electronics supply store.
Remove the switch. There may be one or two screws that hold it in
place or it may be secured to the outside of the fan with a small knurled
nut, which you can loosen with needle-nose pliers. Purchase an identical
new switch.
Connect the new switch using the same wiring configuration as on the
old model. To make connections, first use a wire stripper to strip ¾" of
insulation from the ends of each of the wires coming from the fan motor
(the ones you cut in Step 5). Attach the wires to the new switch in the
same order and configuraion as they were attached to the old switch.
Secure the new switch in the housing, and make sure all wires are
tucked neatly inside. Reattach the bottom cap. Restore power to the fan.
Test all the fan’s speeds to make sure all the connections are good.
Repairing Fluorescent Lights
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdriver
Ratchet wrench
Combination tool
Voltage tester
Replacement tubes
Starters or ballast (if needed)
Replacement fluorescent light fixture (if needed)
F luorescent lights are relatively trouble free and

use less energy than incandescent lights. A typical
fluorescent tube lasts about three years and produces
two to four times as much light per watt as a standard
incandescent lightbulb.
The most frequent problem with a fluorescent
light fixture is a worn-out tube. If a fluorescent light
fixture begins to flicker or does not light fully,
remove and examine the tube. If the tube has bent or
broken pins or black discoloration near the ends,
replace it. Light gray discoloration is normal in
working fluorescent tubes. When replacing an old
tube, read the wattage rating and the color
temperature rating printed on the tube, and buy a new
tube with matching ratings. The color temperature
rating is a measure of the color of the light produced
by the tube. Most people prefer a “warm” light in the
2,700K range. Never dispose of old tubes by
breaking them. Fluorescent tubes contain a small
amount of hazardous mercury. Check with your local
environmental control agency or health department
for disposal guidelines.
Fluorescent light fixtures also can malfunction if
the sockets are cracked or worn. Inexpensive
replacement sockets are available at any hardware
store and can be installed in a few minutes.
If a fixture does not work even after the tube and
sockets have been serviced, the ballast probably is
defective. Faulty ballasts may leak a black, oily
substance and can cause a fluorescent light fixture to
make a loud humming sound. Although ballasts can
be replaced, always check prices before buying a new
ballast. It may be cheaper to purchase and install a
new fluorescent fixture rather than to replace the
ballast in an old fluorescent light fixture.
A fluorescent light works by directing electrical current through a special
gas-filled tube that glows when energized. A white translucent diffuser
protects the fluorescent tube and softens the light. A cover plate protects a
special transformer, called a ballast. The ballast regulates the flow of 120-
volt household current to the sockets. The sockets transfer power to metal
pins that extend into the tube.
PROBLEM REPAIR
Tube flickers 1. Rotate tube to make sure it is seated

or lights properly in the sockets.
partially. 2. Replace tube and the starter (where
present) if tube is discolored or if pins are
bent or broken.
3. Replace the ballast if replacement cost is
reasonable. Otherwise replace the entire
fixture.
Tube does not 1. Check wall switch and replace, if needed.

light. 2. Rotate the tube to make sure it is seated
properly in sockets.
3. Replace tube and the starter (where
present) if tube is discolored or if pins are
bent or broken.
4. Replace sockets if they are chipped or if
tube does not seat properly.
5. Replace the ballast or the entire fixture.
Noticeable Replace ballast if replacement cost is
black reasonable. Otherwise replace the entire
substance fixture.
around
ballast.
Fixture hums. Replace ballast if replacement cost is
reasonable. Otherwise replace the entire
fixture.
Older fluorescent lights may have a small cylindrical device, called a

starter, located near one of the sockets. When a tube begins to flicker,
replace both the tube and the starter. Turn off the power, and then remove
the starter by pushing it slightly and turning it counterclockwise. Install a
replacement that matches the old starter.
How to Replace a Fluorescent Tube
Turn off power to the light fixture at the switch. Remove the diffuser
to expose the fluorescent tube.
Remove the fluorescent tube by rotating it ¼ turn in either direction
and sliding the tube out of the sockets. Inspect the pins at the end of the
tube. Tubes with bent or broken pins should be replaced.
Inspect the ends of the fluorescent tube for discoloration. The new
tube in good working order (top) shows no discoloration. The normal,
working tube (middle) may have gray color. A worn-out tube (bottom)
shows black discoloration.
Install a new tube with the same wattage rating as the old tube. Insert
the tube so that pins slide fully into sockets, and then twist tube ¼ turn
in either direction until it is locked securely. Reattach the diffuser, and
turn on the power at the switch.
How to Replace a Socket
Turn off the power at the service panel. Remove the diffuser,
fluorescent tube, and the cover plate. Test for power with a voltage
tester. If the tester glows, return to the panel and turn off the correct
circuit.
Remove the faulty socket from the fixture housing. Some sockets
slide out, while others must be unscrewed.
Disconnect wires attached to the socket. For push-in fittings (above),
remove the wires by inserting a small screwdriver into the release
openings. Some sockets have screw terminal connections, while others
have preattached wires that must be cut before the socket can be
removed.
Purchase and install a new socket. If the socket has preattached wire
leads, connect the leads to the ballast wires using wire connectors.
Replace the cover plate and then the fluorescent tube, making sure that it
seats properly. Replace the diffuser. Restore power to the fixture at the
panel and test.
How to Replace a Ballast
Turn off the power at the service panel, and then remove the diffuser,
fluorescent tube, and cover plate. Test for power using a voltage tester.
Remove the sockets from the fixture housing by sliding them out or by
removing the mounting screws and lifting the sockets out.
Disconnect the wires attached to the sockets by pushing a small
screwdriver into the release openings (above), by loosening the screw
terminals, or by cutting wires to within 2" of sockets.
Remove the old ballast using a ratchet wrench or screwdriver. Make
sure to support the ballast so it does not fall.
Install a new ballast that has the same ratings as the old ballast.
Attach the ballast wires to the socket wires using wire connectors,
screw terminal connections, or push-in fittings. Reinstall the cover plate,
fluorescent tube, and diffuser. Turn on power to the light fixture at the
panel.
How to Replace a Fluorescent Light Fixture
Turn off power to the light fixture at the panel. Remove the diffuser,
tube, and cover plate. Test for power using a circuit tester.
Disconnect the insulated circuit wires and the bare copper grounding
wire from the light fixture. Loosen the cable clamp holding the circuit
wires.
Unscrew the fixture from the wall or ceiling and carefully remove it.
Make sure to support the fixture so it does not fall.
Position the new fixture, threading the circuit wires through the
knockout opening in the back of the fixture. Screw the fixture in place
so it is firmly anchored to framing members.
Connect the circuit wires to the fixture wires using wire connectors.
Follow the wiring diagram included with the new fixture. Tighten the
cable clamp holding the circuit wires.
Attach the fixture cover plate, and then install the fluorescent tubes
and attach the diffuser. Turn on power to the fixture at the panel and test.
Replacing Plugs & Cords
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Combination tool
Needlenose pliers
Screwdriver
Replacement plug
R eplace an electrical plug whenever you notice

bent or loose prongs, a cracked or damaged casing, or
a missing insulating faceplate. A damaged plug poses
a shock and fire hazard.
Replacement plugs are available in different styles
to match common appliance cords. Always choose a
replacement that is similar to the original plug. Flat-
cord and quick-connect plugs are used with light-
duty appliances, such as lamps and radios. Round-
cord plugs are used with larger appliances, including
those that have three-prong grounding plugs.
Some tools and appliances use polarized plugs. A
polarized plug has one wide (neutral) prong and one
narrow (hot) prong, corresponding to the neutral and
hot slots found in a standard receptacle.
If there is room in the plug body, tie the individual
wires in an underwriter’s knot to secure the plug to
the cord (see photo, opposite page, top).
How to Install a Quick-Connect Plug
Squeeze the prongs of the new quick-connect plug together slightly,

and pull the plug core from the casing. Cut the old plug from the flat-
cord wire with a combination tool, leaving a clean cut end.
2
Feed unstripped wire through the rear of the plug casing. Spread the
prongs, and then insert the wire into the opening in the rear of the core.
Squeeze the prongs together; spikes inside the core penetrate the cord.
Slide the casing over the core until it snaps into place.
3 Ridged half Wide prong
When replacing a polarized plug, make sure that the ridged half of the
cord lines up with the wider (neutral) prong of the plug.
How to Replace a Round-Cord Plug
1
Cut off the round cord near the old plug using a combination tool.
Remove the insulating faceplate on the new plug and feed the cord
through the rear of the plug. Strip about 3" of outer insulation from the
round cord. Strip ¾" insulation from the individual wires.
2 Underwriter’s knot
Tie an underwriter’s knot with the black and the white wires. Make
sure the knot is located close to the edge of the stripped outer insulation.
Pull the cord so that the knot slides into the plug body.
3
Hook the end of the black wire clockwise around the brass screw and
the white wire around the silver screw. On a three-prong plug, attach the
third wire to the grounding screw. If necessary, excess grounding wire
can be cut away.
4
Tighten the screws securely, making sure the copper wires do not
touch each other. Replace the insulating faceplate.
How to Replace a Flat-Cord Plug
1 Casing cover
Cut the old plug from cord using a combination tool. Pull apart the
two halves of the flat cord so that about 2" of wire are separated. Strip
¾" insulation from each half. Remove the casing cover on the new plug.
2
Hook the ends of the wires clockwise around the screw terminals, and
tighten the screw terminals securely. Reassemble the plug casing. Some
plugs may have an insulating faceplate that must be installed.
How to Replace a Lamp Cord
1
With the lamp unplugged, the shade off, and the bulb out, you can
remove the socket. Squeeze the outer shell of the socket just above the
base, and pull the shell out of the base. The shell is often marked
“Press” at some point along its perimeter. Press there and then pull.
2
Under the outer shell there is a cardboard insulating sleeve. Pull this
off and you’ll reveal the socket attached to the end of the cord.
3
With the shell and insulation set aside, pull the socket away from the
lamp (it will still be connected to the cord). Unscrew the two screws to
completely disconnect the socket from the cord. Set the socket aside
with its shell (you’ll need them to reassemble the lamp).
4
Remove the old cord from the lamp by grasping the cord near the base
and pulling the cord through the lamp.
5
Bring your damaged cord to a hardware store or home center and

purchase a similar cord set. (A cord set is simply a replacement cord
with a plug already attached.) Snake the end of the cord up from the
base of the lamp through the top so that about 3" of cord is visible above
the top.
6
Carefully separate the two halves of the cord. If the halves won’t pull
apart, you can carefully make a cut in the middle with a knife. Strip
away about ¾" of insulation from the end of each wire.
7
Connect the ends of the new cord to the two screws on the side of the
socket (one of which will be silver in color, the other brass colored). The
neutral wire of the cord will have ribbing or markings along its length;
wrap that wire clockwise around the silver (neutral) screw, and tighten
the screw. The other half of the cord will be smooth; wrap it around the
copper (hot) screw, and tighten the screw. Tie the two wires into an
underwriter’s knot (here) as applicable.
8 Outer sleeve Insulating sleeve
Set the socket on the base. Make sure the switch isn’t blocked by the
harp—the part that holds the shade on some lamps. Slide the cardboard
insulating sleeve over the socket so the sleeve’s notch aligns with the
switch. Now slide the outer sleeve over the socket, aligning the notch
with the switch. It should snap into the base securely. Screw in a
lightbulb, plug the lamp in, and test it.
Replacing a Lamp Socket
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Replacement socket
Continuity tester
Screwdriver
N ext to the cord plug, the most common source

of trouble in a lamp is a worn lightbulb socket. When
a lamp socket assembly fails, the problem is usually
with the socket-switch unit, although replacement
sockets may include other parts you do not need.
Lamp failure is not always caused by a bad
socket. You can avoid unnecessary repairs by
checking the lamp cord, plug, and lightbulb before
replacing the socket.
images
images
Socket-mounted switch types are usually interchangeable: choose a

replacement you prefer. Clockwise from top left: twist knob, remote switch,
pull chain, push lever.
TIP
When replacing a lamp socket, you can improve a standard
ON-OFF lamp by installing a three-way socket.
How to Repair or Replace a Lamp Socket
1 Contact tab
Unplug the lamp. Remove the shade, lightbulb, and harp (shade
bracket). Scrape the contact tab clean with a small screwdriver. Pry the
contact tab up slightly if flattened inside the socket. Replace the bulb,
plug in the lamp, and test. If the lamp does not work, unplug, remove
the bulb, and continue with the next step.
2 Outer shell
Insulating sleeve
Squeeze the outer shell of the socket near the “Press” marking, and lift
it off. On older lamps, the socket may be held by screws found at the
base of the screw socket. Slip off the cardboard insulating sleeve. If the
sleeve is damaged, replace the entire socket.
3
Check for loose wire connections on the screw terminals. Refasten any
loose connections, and then reassemble the lamp, and test. If
connections are not loose, remove the wires, lift out the socket, and
continue with the next step.
4 Exposed wire
Tester clip
Test for lamp cord problems with a continuity tester. Place the clip of
the tester on one prong of the plug. Touch the probe to one exposed
wire, and then to the other wire. Repeat the test with the other prong of
the plug. If the tester fails to light for either prong, then replace the cord
and plug. Retest the lamp.
5 Silver screw
Ridged insulation
Smooth insulation
If cord and plug are functional, then choose a replacement socket

marked with the same amp and volt ratings as the old socket. One half
of flat-cord lamp wire is covered by insulation that is ridged or marked:
attach this wire to the silver (neutral) screw terminal. Connect the other
wire to the brass (hot) screw.
6 Harp Outer shell
Insulating sleeve
Cap
Slide the insulating sleeve and outer shell over the socket so that the
socket and screw terminals are fully covered and the switch fits into the
sleeve slot. Press the socket assembly down into the cap until the socket
locks into place. Replace the harp, lightbulb, and shade.
images
Common Wiring Problems & Solutions

images
An electrical inspector visiting your home might identify a number of

situations that are not up to code. These situations may not be immediate
problems. In fact, it is possible that the wiring in your home has remained
trouble-free for many years.
Nevertheless, any wiring or device that is not up to code carries the

potential for problems, often at risk to your home and your family. In
addition, you may have trouble selling your home if it is not wired
according to accepted methods.
While this book cannot possibly identify all potential wiring problems in
your house, we have identified some of the most common wiring defects
here and will show you how to correct them. If you have questions
regarding your home wiring system, consult an electrician or the local
building department.
In this chapter:
• Service Panels & Grounding

• Cables & Wires
• Boxes
• Cords
• Receptacles & Switches
• Light Fixtures
images
Service Panels & Grounding

images
Problem: Rust stains are found inside the main service panel.
This problem occurs because water seeps into the service head
outside the house and drips down into the service panel.
images
Solution: Have an electrician examine the service mast, weather

head, service entrance cables, and the main panel. If the panel or
service wires have been damaged, a new electrical service must
be installed.
images
Problem: This problem is actually a very old and very dangerous

solution. A penny or a knockout behind a fuse effectively
bypasses the fuse, preventing an overloaded circuit from blowing
the fuse. This is very dangerous and can lead to overheated
wiring.
images
Solution: Remove the penny and replace the fuse. Have a

licensed electrician examine the panel and circuit wiring. If the
fuse has been bypassed for years, wiring may be dangerously
compromised, and the circuit may need to be replaced. In
addition, if you have the old Edison fuse socket, replace it with a
new S-type fuse socket. This eliminates the related problem of
installing the wrong-size fuse in the panel.
images
Problem: Two wires connected to one single-pole breaker is a

sign of an overcrowded panel and also a dangerous code violation
unless the breaker is approved for such a connection.
images
Solution: If there is room in the panel, install a separate breaker
for the extra wire. If the panel is overcrowded, have an electrician
upgrade the panel or install a subpanel.
images
Problem: Too much bare wire exposed at the breaker connection.

This presents a short-circuit hazard.
Solution: With power off, trim the feed wire so no more than ½"
of bare wire is exposed, and then reconnect.
images
Problem: There is no handle tie (or there is an improper handle

tie) on breaker pair controlling a 240-volt circuit.
Solution: Install a handle tie approved by the circuit breaker
manufacturer.
images
Problem: Conductor too small for breaker size. The #14 copper
wires seen here are rated for 15-amp circuits. The 30-amp
breaker allows too much current in the wires and could cause a
fire. Solution: Replace the wires with wires approved for the
circuit breaker size.
images
Problem: There is more than one neutral in a buss terminal.

Sharing slots is fine for grounding wires, but each neutral wire
should have its own terminal. Solution: Remove one of the wires
and find an open neutral terminal for it.
images
Problem: Arc-fault protection (AFCI) circuit breakers may fail,

especially if they are tripped with some frequency. Solution: Test
each breaker as recommended by the manufacturer by depressing
the “Test” button. If the breaker is functioning correctly, it will
trip when the button is pushed.
images
Problem: GFCI circuit breakers may fail, especially if they are

tripped with some frequency. Solution: Test each breaker as
recommended by the manufacturer by depressing the “Test”
button. If the breaker is functioning correctly, it will trip when the
button is pushed.
images
Problem: There is a missing cable clamp at panel box. All NM

cable entering a service panel (or any other box) needs protection
from sharp edges that can cut sheathing. Solution: Disconnect the
cable in the box, and retract and reinstall it with a cable clamp.
Correct
Problem: The shared hot terminal on the breaker is not wired

correctly. The example above is correct: the conductors should be
positioned on opposite sides of the terminal and held securely in
the separate grooves by the terminal screw.
images
Cables & Wires

images
Problem: Cable running across joists or studs is attached to the

edge of framing members. Electrical codes forbid this type of
installation in exposed areas such as unfinished basements and
crawl spaces.
images
Solution: Protect cable by drilling holes in framing members at
least 2" from exposed edges and threading the cable through the
holes.
images
Problem: Cable running along joists or studs hangs loosely.

Loose cables can be pulled accidentally, causing damage to wires.
images
Solution: Anchor the cable to the side of the framing members at

least 1¼" from the edge using plastic staples. NM cable should be
stapled every 4½ ft. and within 8" of each electrical box.
images
Problem: Cable threaded through studs or joists lies close to the

edge of the framing members. NM cable (shown cutaway) can be
damaged easily if nails or screws are driven into the framing
members during remodeling projects.
images
Solution: Install metal nail guards to protect cable from damage.

Nail guards are available at hardware stores and home centers.
images
Problem: Unclamped cable enters a metal electrical box. Edges of

the knockout can rub against the cable sheathing and damage the
wires.
NOTE: With smaller plastic boxes, clamps are not required if cables are
anchored to framing members within 8"; of the box.
images
Solution: Anchor the cable to the electrical box with a cable
clamp. Several types of cable clamps are available at hardware
stores and home centers.
images
Problem: Cables are spliced outside an electrical box. Exposed

splices can spark and create a risk of shock or fire.
images
Solution: Bring installation up to code by enclosing the splice

inside a metal or plastic electrical box. Make sure the box is large
enough to accommodate the number of wires it contains.
images
Problem: Standard cable staples are not rated for more than one
cable; cables should not be stacked under a single staple. Stapling
cables side by side usually violates the 1¼-inch minimum setback
from the framing edge.
images
Solution: Secure multiple cables with an approved cable stacker

device. These can hold up to four cables and are fastened with a
single nail or screw. Install a cable stacker within 12 inches of the
box.
images
Problem: Two or more wires are attached to a single-screw

terminal. This type of connection is seen in older wiring but is
now prohibited by the NEC.
Pigtai
Solution: Disconnect the wires from the screw terminal, and then
join them to a short length of wire (called a pigtail) using a wire
connector. Connect the other end of the pigtail to the screw
terminal.
Exposed wire
Problem: Bare wire extends past a screw terminal. Exposed wire

can cause a short circuit if it touches the metal box or another
circuit wire.
images
Solution: Clip the wire and reconnect it to the screw terminal. In

a proper connection, the bare wire wraps completely around the
screw terminal, and the plastic insulation just touches the screw
head.
images
Problem: Wires are connected with electrical tape. Electrical tape

was used frequently in older installations, but it can deteriorate
over time, leaving bare wires exposed inside the electrical box.
images
Solution: Replace electrical tape with wire connectors. You may

need to clip away a small portion of the wire so the bare end will
be covered completely by the connector.
images
Problem: Nicks and scratches in bare wires interfere with the

flow of current. This can cause the wires to overheat.
images
Solution: Clip away damaged portion of wire, restrip about ¾" of

insulation, and reconnect the wire to the screw terminal.
images
Boxes
images
Problem: Insulation on wires is cracked or damaged. If damaged

insulation exposes bare wire, a short circuit can occur, posing a
shock hazard and fire risk.
images
Solution: Wrap damaged insulation temporarily with plastic

electrical tape. Damaged circuit wires should be replaced by an
electrician.
images
Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short

circuit causes sparks (arcing) inside the box.
images
Solution: Cover an open metal box with a solid metal cover plate.
Cover an open plastic box with a plastic cover plate. Cover plates
are available at any hardware store. Electrical boxes must remain
accessible and cannot be sealed inside ceilings or walls.
images
Problem: Short wires are difficult to handle. The NEC requires

that each wire in an electrical box have at least 3" of workable
length from the front of the box.
images
Solution: Lengthen circuit wires by connecting them to short

pigtail wires using wire connectors. Pigtails can be cut from scrap
wire but should be the same gauge and color as the circuit wires
and at least 3" long.
images
Problem: A recessed electrical box is hazardous, especially if the

wall or ceiling surface is made from a flammable material, such
as wood paneling. The NEC prohibits this type of installation.
images
Solution: Add an extension ring to bring the face of the electrical

box flush with the surface. Extension rings come in several sizes
and are available at hardware stores.
images
Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short

circuit causes sparks (dust and dirt in an electrical box can cause
hazardous high-resistance short circuits). When making routine
electrical repairs, always check the electrical boxes for dust and
dirt buildup.
images
Solution: Vacuum the electrical box clean using a narrow nozzle

attachment. Make sure power to the box is turned off at the panel
before vacuuming.
images
Problem: A crowded electrical box (shown cutaway) makes

electrical repairs difficult. This type of installation is prohibited,
because the heat in the box can damage the wire or device and
cause a fire.
images
Solution: Replace the electrical box with a deeper electrical box.
images
Problem: A light fixture is installed without an electrical box.
This installation exposes the wiring connections and provides no
support for the light fixture.
images
Solution: Install an approved electrical box to enclose the wire

connections and support the light fixture.
images
Cords
images
Problem: A lamp or appliance cord runs underneath a rug. Foot

traffic can wear off insulation, creating a short circuit that can
cause fire or shock.
images
Solution: Reposition the lamp or appliance so that the cord is

visible. Replace worn cords.
images
Problem: An older electric dryer or range has a three-prong cord

that does not fit the four-slot receptacle in the house.
images
Solution: Replace the three-prong cord with a new, UL-listed

four-prong cord that is properly rated for the appliance. See here
to here for dryer/range cord installation.
images
Problem: A lamp or appliance plug is cracked, or an electrical
cord is frayed near the plug. Worn cords and plugs create a fire
and shock hazard.
images
Solution: Cut away damaged portions of wire, and install a new

plug (see here). Replacement plugs are available at appliance
stores and home centers.
images
Problem: An extension cord is too small for the power load

drawn by a tool or appliance. Undersized extension cords can
overheat, melting the insulation and leaving bare wires exposed.
images
Solution: Use an extension cord with wattage and amperage

ratings that meet or exceed the rating of the tool or appliance.
Extension cords are for temporary use only. Never use an
extension cord for a permanent installation.
images
Receptacles & Switches

images
Problem: Octopus receptacle attachments used permanently can

overload a circuit and cause overheating of the receptacle.
images
Solution: Use a multireceptacle power strip with built-in overload

protection. This is for temporary use only. If the need for extra
receptacles is frequent, upgrade the wiring system.
images
Problem: Scorch marks near screw terminals indicate that

electrical arcing has occurred. Arcing usually is caused by loose
wire connections.
images
Solution: If the insulation is damaged, cut the wires back to intact

insulation. Otherwise, clean the wires with fine grit sandpaper or
steel wool. Replace the receptacle. Make sure wires are
connected securely to screw terminals.
images
Problem: Two-slot receptacle in outdoor installation is hazardous

because it has no grounding slot. In case of a short circuit, a
person plugging in a cord becomes a conductor for current to
follow to ground.
images
Solution: Replace the old receptacle with a weather-resistant

GFCI receptacle to provide protection against ground faults. If
the receptacle is exposed to the elements, be sure to include a
cover rated for wet locations.
images
Problem: White neutral wires are connected to a switch.

Although the switch appears to work correctly in this installation,
it is dangerous because the light fixture carries voltage when the
switch is off.
images
Solution: Connect the black hot wires to the switch, and join the
white wires together with a wire connector.
images
Problem: White neutral wires are connected to the brass screw

terminals on the receptacle, and black hot wires are attached to
silver screw terminals. This installation is hazardous because live
voltage flows into the long neutral slot on the receptacle.
images
Solution: Reverse the wire connections so that the black hot wires
are attached to brass screw terminals and white neutral wires are
attached to silver screw terminals. Live voltage now flows into
the short slot on the receptacle.
images
Problem: Three-prong appliance plugs do not fit a two-slot

receptacle. Three-prong plug adapters do not provide a ground
unless the receptacle is grounded to a grounded metal box and the
metal loop on the adapter is secured under the cover plate screw.
images
Solution: Install a three-slot grounded receptacle if a means of

grounding exists at the box. If no ground is present, install a
GFCI receptacle to provide ground-fault protection.
Note: This improves safety but does not provide a true ground. Attach a
“No Equipment Ground” sticker to the receptacle cover plate if no ground
is present.
images
Problem: A receptacle is loose and/or pushes in when you plug in

a cord, due to a slightly recessed box.
images
Solution: Install receptacle spacers behind the ears of the
receptacle so the receptacle mounts securely to the box. Spacers
are inexpensive and are designed for this purpose.
Note: If the box is recessed more than ¼ inch from the wall surface, install
a box extension ring instead of shims (see here).
images
Light Fixtures
images
Problem: Ceiling insulation must be held back from a recessed

light fixture that is not rated for insulation contact (IC), creating a
sizable hole in the ceiling’s thermal barrier.
images
Solution: Replace the fixture with an ICAT-rated model, which

can be covered with insulation and is also airtight (AT) to prevent
conditioned room air from leaking into the attic. This upgrade
saves energy and helps to prevent ice dams (caused by excessive
heat in the attic).
images
Problem: Lamps and other light fixtures with high-wattage

incandescent lightbulbs exceeding the fixture’s maximum
wattage rating can damage the fixture wiring and scorch the
cardboard socket sleeve.
images
Solution: Replace high-wattage incandescent bulbs with LED

bulbs with comparable light output (measured in lumens). A
17.5-watt LED bulb has the same light output (1,600 lumens) of a
100-watt incandescent bulb and produces much less heat.
Conversions
METRIC EQUIVALENT
Inches (in.) 1/64
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Millimeters (mm) 0.40
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 1/32
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 1/25
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Millimeters (mm) 1
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 1/16
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 1/8
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) ¼
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Centimeters (cm)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 3/8
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Centimeters (cm) 0.95
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 2/5
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Millimeters (mm) 10
Centimeters (cm) 1
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) ½
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 5/8
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) ¾
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) ⅞
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 1
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 2
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 3
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 4
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 5
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Millimeters (mm) 127
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 6
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 7
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 8
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 9
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 10
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 11
Feet (ft.)
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m)
Inches (in.) 12
Feet (ft.) 1
Yards (yd.)
Meters (m) .30
Inches (in.) 36
Feet (ft.) 3
Yards (yd.) 1
Meters (m) .91
Inches (in.) 39.4

Feet (ft.) 31/12
Yards (yd.) 11/12
Millimeters (mm) 1,000
Centimeters (cm) 100
Meters (m) 1.00
CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4
Inches Centimeters 2.54
Feet Meters 0.305
Yards Meters 0.914
Miles Kilometers 1.609
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45
Square feet Square meters 0.093
Square yards Square meters 0.836
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (Imp. 0.568)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (Imp. 1.136)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546)
Ounces Grams 28.4
Pounds Kilograms 0.454
Tons Metric tons 0.907
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:

Millimeters Inches 0.039
Centimeters Inches 0.394
Meters Feet 3.28
Meters Yards 1.09
Kilometers Miles 0.621
Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (Imp. 1.76)
Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (Imp. 0.88)
Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (Imp. 0.22)
Grams Ounces 0.035
Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Metric tons Tons 1.1
CONVERTING TEMPERATURES
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius
(C) by following this simple formula: Subtract 32
from the Fahrenheit temperature reading. Then
mulitply that number by 5/9. For example, 77°F - 32 =
45. 45 × 5/9 = 25°C.
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit,

multiply the Celsius temperature reading by 9/5 or
1.8, then add 32. For example, 25°C × 9/5 = 45. 45 +
32 = 77°F.
Resources
Black & Decker
Portable power tools and more
www.blackanddecker.com
Broan-NuTone, LLC
Vent fans
www.broan-nutone.com
Generac Power Systems

Standby generators and switches
www.generac.com
Honda Power Equipment/ American Honda

Motor Company, Inc.
Standby generators
www.hondapowerequipment.com
Kohler
Standby generators
www.kohlergenerators.com
Pass & Seymour Legrand

Home automation products
www.legrand.us/pass-and-seymour
Red Wing Shoes Co.
Work shoes and boots shown throughout book
www.redwingshoes.com
Unistrut Metal Framing

Solar panel mounts
www.unistrut.us
Westinghouse
Ceiling fans, decorative lighting, solar outdoor
lighting, & other lighting fixtures and bulbs
www.westinghouse.com
Photo Credits
p. 177 photo © Mike Clarke / www.istock.com
p. 202 photo © George Peters / www.istock.com
p. 206 photo courtesy of Broan NuTone
p. 218 photo (top right) courtesy of Kohler
p. 220 photo courtesy of Ikea
p. 250 photo © George Peters / www.istock.com
p. 251 photo © David Ross / www.istock.com
p. 263 (top right) photo © Steve Harmon / istock.com, (lower right) photo
courtesy of SieMatic
p. 266 photo © Jeff Chevrier / www.istock.com
p. 267 photos (top right & lower) courtesy of Generac Power Systems, Inc.
p. 278 photo courtesy of Cabin Fever, featuring McMaster Carr vapor-tight

light fixtures
Index
A
aboveground service drops, 175, 181
AFCI receptacles
about, 98, 168–169
code requirements for, 121
common problems with, 318
installing, 170–171
air conditioners, 127, 129, 158
alarms, smoke and CO, 125, 224–225
ampacity (of wires), 10, 26, 29
amperage, 126
ampere (amp), defined, 14
appliances, 156, 158, 192–197
armored cable, 14, 19, 27
attics, wiring overview for, 146
B
backup power supplies
about, 266
choosing, 267–268
running and maintaining, 270–271
transfer switches for, 269, 272–277
ballast, replacing, 306
baseboard heaters, 129, 157, 238–241
basements, wiring overview for, 145
bathrooms
code requirements for, 116, 121
exhaust fans in, 258–261
vanity lights, 218–219
wiring overview for, 138–139
bedrooms
smoke alarms in, 125
wiring overview for, 141
bell-hanger’s big, 40, 319–323
bonding, 182–184, 187
boxes. Seeelectrical boxes; junction boxes
C
cable lights, low-voltage, 220–223
cable ripper, 20
cable staples, 31
cables
about, 26
defined, 14
problems & solutions for, 319–321
sheathing damage, 124
types of, 27–28
carbon monoxide (CO) alarms, 125, 224–225
cartridge fuses, 69
Cat 5 cable, 28
ceiling boxes, 60
ceiling fans
about, 250
installing, 253
layouts for, 165
remote-control, 254–257
repairing, 298–301
support for, 117, 252
types of, 251
ceiling lights
about, 202–203
recessed, 206–209
replacing, 204–205
chandeliers, repairing, 296–297
channel-type pliers, 20
childproofing, 97
circuit breaker panels, 65–67
circuit breakers
about, 68
connecting, 70–71
defined, 14
resetting and testing, 69
circuit maps, 149–165
circuits
defined, 14
rating for, 125
understanding, 16–17
closets
lighting in, 125
clothes dryers, 129, 192, 194–197
coaxial cable, 28
code requirements, 112, 115–121
compatibility, 23
computer circuits, 158
conductor, defined, 14
conduits
about, 42–43
defined, 14
electrical bonding of metal, 42
installing on concrete walls, 46–47
nonmetallic conduit connections, 45
types of, 42–43
working with, 44
connections
checking, 322–323
fixing loose, 299
connectors, push-in, 31
continuity, defined, 14
conversions, 332
cords
for dryers and ranges, 194–197, 326
countdown timer switch, 84
crawlspaces, wiring overview for, 146
current, defined, 14
D
daylight sensor switch, 85
delivery system, 11
diagnostic tools, 21
dimmer switches, 85–86
dining rooms
dishwashers, 128
doorbells
about, 230
replacing, 233
testing nonfunctional, 231–232
double switches, 82, 91
double-insulated tools, 19
duplex receptacles
about, 98
defined, 14
layouts for, 150, 152–153, 161
E
Edison adapters, 68
Edison fuses, 316
electric baseboard heaters, 129, 157, 239–241
electric ranges
cords for, 194–197
hoods for, 262–265
receptacles for, 193
wattage for, 128
wiring layouts for, 157
electrical bonding of metal conduit, 42
electrical boxes
about, 50
ceiling boxes, 60
common, 51–52
defined, 14
in electrical system, 13
fill chart, 50
installing, 56–63
installing for light fixtures, 58
installing for switches, 58
installing junction boxes, 60–61
installing pop-in retrofit, 62–63
knockouts on, 124
locating, 59
nonmetallic, 54–55
replacing, 62
specifications for, 53
wallcovering thickness and, 59
electrical loads
calculating, 127
estimating, 130–131
evaluating, 113, 126
electrical panels. See main service panels; service
panels
electrical symbol key, 133
electrical system
diagram of, 15
parts of, 12–13
terminology for, 14
electrical transformers, 11
electrician’s tape, 32
electricity, how it works, 10
electronic motion-sensor switches, 75
emergency disconnect, 7
exhaust fans, 258–261
extension cords, 267, 327
F
fans. Seeceiling fans; exhaust fans
fish tape, 21
fixed devices, 127
flat-cord plugs, 309
flexible metal conduit (FMC), defined, 14
floodlights, motion-sensing, 286–289
fluorescent lights, repairing, 302–307
food disposers, 128
forced-air furnaces, wattage of, 129
four-way wall switches, 80–81, 89
foyers, wiring overview for, 142–143
freezers, 129
fuses
about, 68
defined, 14
identifying and replacing blown, 69
replacing cartridge, 69
G
garages, wiring overview for, 145
gas pipes, bonding, 182–184
generators. See backup power supplies
GFCI receptacles
about, 98, 104, 168, 170
installing for multiple-location protection, 106–
107
installing for single-location protection, 105
layouts for, 150–151, 156
updates regarding, 7
Greenfield, 14
ground rod installation, 185–187
grounded wire, defined, 14
grounding, 18–19, 118, 182, 184
grounding electrode system, installing, 185–187
grounding wires, 12, 14
H
hallways
hand tools, 20
heat pumps, 129
heating appliances/systems, 127, 129, 238–249. See
also thermostats
hot wire, defined, 14
I
inspections, 113, 122–125
installing, AFCI, 170–171
insulator, defined, 14
isolated-ground receptacle, 158
J
junction boxes, 60–61. See also electrical boxes
K
kitchens
knob and tube wiring, 27
L
lamp cords, 310–311
lamp sockets, repairing, 312–313
landscape lights, 226–229
laser level, 20
laundry rooms
light fixtures
ceiling, 202–209
code requirements for, 118, 120–121
installing electrical boxes for, 58
layouts for, 151–153, 159–164
motion-sensing floodlights, 286–289
problems & solutions for, 331
replacing for fluorescent lights, 307
track lights, 210–213
undercabinet lights, 214–217
lightbulbs, 128
linesman pliers, 20
living rooms
low-voltage cable lights, 220–223
M
main service panels
about, 64
examining, 112, 114
See also service panels
mercury switches, 75
metal conduit, 27, 43
meters, 12, 14
metric conversions, 332
microwave ovens, 128
motion-sensing floodlights, 286–289
motion-sensor switches, 91
multimeters, 109
N
National Electrical Code (NEC), 112, 115–121
needlenose pliers, 20
neutral conductors, 124
neutral wire
defined, 14
separate, 156
shared, 156
nonmetallic conduit connections, 45
nonmetallic sheathed cable
about, 19, 27–28, 34
colors of, 28
installing, 35–38
installing in finished ceilings, 41
reading, 29
running inside finished wall, 39–40
stripping, 30
nonmetallic sheathed cable, defined, 14
O
occupancy sensors, 85
octagonal boxes, 50–51
outbuildings, 278–285
outdoors
installing fixture box, 287
receptacles (outlets), 198–201
outlets. See receptacles (outlets)
overload, defined, 14
P
permits, 113, 132
pigtail wires, 14, 33
pilot-light switches, 83, 90
plastic conduit, 43
pliers, 20
plug-in testers, 109
plugs, repairing, 308–311
polarization, 18–19
polarized receptacles, 14, 19
pop-in retrofit boxes, 62–63
power, defined, 14
power plants, 11
programmable timer switch, 84, 91
project planning
about, 112
steps for, 112–113
push-button switches, 75
push-in connectors, 31
Q
quick-connect plugs, 308
R
radiant heat systems, 244–245
range hoods, 262–265
receptacles (outlets)
adapters for, 19
AFCI, 121, 168–169
childproofing, 97
code requirements for, 116–118, 120
defined, 14
duplex, 98
high-voltage, 96
installing GFCI, 105–107
installing new, 102–103
isolated-ground, 158
layouts for, 161
older, 95
outdoors, 198–201
polarized, 14, 19
spacing for, 123
split, 154–155
switch/receptacles, 83, 91
testing, 108–109
types of, 14, 94
wired in sequence, 150
wiring for, 100–101
See also GFCI receptacles
recessed ceiling lights, 206–209
remote-control ceiling fans, 254–257
repair projects
ceiling fans, 298–301
chandeliers, 296–297
fluorescent lights, 302–307
lamp sockets, 312–313
light fixtures, 292–295
plugs and cords, 308–311
Romex, 14
room-by-room wiring
about, 134
attics, 146
basements, 145
bathrooms, 138–139
bedrooms, 141
crawlspaces, 146
dining rooms, 140
foyers, 142–143
garages, 145
hallways, 142–143
kitchens, 135–137
laundry rooms, 144
living rooms, 140
outdoors, 147
stairs, 142–143
rotary snap switches, 75
round-cord plugs, 309
S
safety, 9–23
screw terminals
connecting wire to, 31
defined, 14
screwdrivers, 20
service entrance cable (SE), 28
service lugs, 119
service mast, 12
service panels
about, 64–65
defined, 14
grounding, 184
installing, 174–181, 189–191
locating, 176
See also main service panels
short circuit, defined, 14
side cutters, 20
single-pole wall switches, 77, 88
smart switches, 85
smoke alarms, 125, 224–225
sockets
replacing, 295
replacing for fluorescent lights, 305
replacing lamp, 312–313
testing, 294
stairs
strain relief fittings, 195
stud finders, 20
S-type fuses, 316
subpanels, 188–191
substations, 11
surge protection, 7, 172–173
switches
about, 74–75
action options for, 86
defined, 14
dimmer, 85–86
double, 82
four-way wall, 80–81, 163–164
ganged, 159, 165
layouts for, 151–154, 159–165
neutral conductors for, 124
pilot-light, 83
repairing pull-chain, 300–301
replacing built-in, 295
single-pole wall, 77
specialty, 84–85
testing, 88–90
three-way wall, 78–79, 160–162
time-delay, 91
timer, 84–85, 90
types of, 75–76
wall, 74–81
wireless, 234–237
switch/receptacles, 83, 91
T
tamper-resistant three-slot receptacles, 19, 97
tape measure, 20
telephone cable, 28
thermostats, 157, 239. See also heating
appliances/systems
THHN/THWN wire, 28
three-way wall switches, 78–79, 89
time-delay switches, 91
timer switches, 84–85, 90
toggle switches, 75
tools
double-insulated, 19
overview of, 20–21
track lights, installing, 210–213
transfer switches
types of, 269
transformers, 119, 220–223
U
UF (underground feeder) cable, 27–28
UL, 14
undercabinet lights, installing, 214–217
underfloor radiant heat systems, 244–245
underground service lateral, 175
utility knives, 20
V
voltage (volts), defined, 14
W
wall heaters, 242–243
wall switches
about, 74
double, 82
four-way, 80–81
single-pole, 77
three-way, 78–79
types of, 75–76
water flow, 11
water heaters, 11, 128, 182–183
water pipes, bonding, 182–184
wattage (watts)
defined, 14
locating, 128–129
whole-house surge arrestors, 172–173
wire
about, 26
color chart for, 26
connecting to screw terminals, 31
installing on concrete walls, 46–47
joining with wire connector, 32
pigtail, 33
reading unsheathed, 29
size chart for, 26
splices in, 124
tips for working with, 29
wire connectors
defined, 14
joining wires with, 32
wire strippers, 20
wireless switches, 234–237
wiring plans/diagrams
drawing, 113, 132–133
electrical symbol key for, 133
room-by-room, 134–147
wiring problems & solutions, 319–323
© 2021 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
First Published in 2021 by Cool Springs Press,

an imprint of The Quarto Group,
100 Cummings Center, Suite 265-D, Beverly, MA 01915, USA.
T (978) 282-9590 F (978) 283-2742 QuartoKnows.com
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any

form without written permission of the copyright owners. All
images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and
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accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of
copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this
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Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail,
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ISBN: 978-0-7603-7151-0
Digital edition published in 2021
eISBN: 978-0-7603-7152-7
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Cover Image: Robert B. Bartee

Page Layout (revisions): Samantha J. Bednarek,
samanthabednarek.com
New Photography: Robert B. Bartee on pages 19 (bottom left), 77
(bottom left, bottom right), 80 (bottom left), 81, 84, 85, 87 (top
left, bottom row), 97 (top right), 118, 119, 124, 125, 126 (top),
127 (top left), 169, and 194–201
Shutterstock: 134, 135
Circuit Illustrations: Christopher Mills on pages 136–147
Black + Decker: The Complete Guide to Wiring, 8th Edition

Created by: The Editors of Cool Springs Press, in cooperation with
BLACK+DECKER. BLACK+DECKER and the
BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker
Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when
following the procedures described in this book. The
publisher and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume
responsibility for any damage to property or injury to
persons as a result of misuse of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques
for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always
follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The
projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and
some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information
on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.

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The Complete Guide to

Current with 2020—2023 Electrical Codes

WORKING SAFELY WITH WIRING

Glossary of Electrical Terms

Understanding Electrical Circuits

Grounding & Polarization

Home Wiring Tools

WIRE, CABLE & CONDUIT

BOXES & PANELS

Types of Wall Switches

Highlights of the National Electrical Code

Room by Room Wiring

Grounding & Bonding a Wiring System

120/240-Volt Dryer Receptacles

120/240-Volt Range Receptacles

Dryer and Range Cords

Adding an Outdoor Receptacle

Recessed Ceiling Lights

Low-Voltage Cable Lights

Hardwired Smoke & CO Alarms

Underfloor Radiant Heat Systems

Remote-Control Ceiling Fan Retrofit

Bathroom Exhaust Fans

Backup Power Supply

Installing a Transfer Switch

Repairing Ceiling Fans

Repairing Fluorescent Lights

Replacing Plugs & Cords

Replacing a Lamp Socket

COMMON WIRING PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS

Cables & Wires

Receptacles & Switches

T his newly updated,

When you obtain a permit for your project (this is

Here are a few of the key updates in the 2020 NEC

T he only way you

Electricity that enters the home is produced by large

Ampere (or amp): Refers to the rate at which electrical

Restore power only when the repair or

Confirm power is OFF by testing at the outlet, switch, or fixture with a

Wear rubber-soled shoes while working on electrical projects. On damp

W ire, cable, and

Red Hot wire carrying current at full voltage

White, Hot wire carrying current at full voltage

Bare Serves as a bonding pathway

#8 40 amps, 240 volts; electric range, central

#10 30 amps, 240 volts; window air

#12 20 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,

#14 15 amps, 120 volts; light fixtures,

#16 Light-duty extension cords

#18 to Thermostats, doorbells, security systems

Unsheathed, individual wires are used for conduit and raceway

12-gauge 20 amps 1,920 watts (120 volts)

Wire ampacity is a measurement of how much current a wire

Use plastic cable staples to fasten cables. Choose staples sized to

Push-in connectors are a relatively new product for joining wires.

NOTE: Pigtailing is done mainly to avoid connecting multiple

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Drill and bits NM cable