Session 1

Aims – To provide learners with key job knowledge

to complete Electrical Supply & Earth Continuity.

Objectives – key Standards, Consumer Units and the

requirements for circuit protection.
 Electrical Installations in accordance
with Building Regulations
All wiring and electrical work, as defined, will be designed, installed,
inspected and tested in accordance with the requirements of BS7671,
the IEE 16th edition Wiring Guidance and Building Regulation Part P
(electrical safety). On completion of the works a copy of the Installer’s
Electrical Installation Test
Certificate compliant with BS7671 is to be provided to the client
and the local authority.
Prior to covering all wiring/cables, the applicant is to ensure that the
installation is inspected by a competent person. On completion of
the work, in addition to the Installation Certificate, an additional
competent person’s Electrical Installation Test Certificate compliant
with BS7671 is to be provided to the client and local authority.
Fuses

Fusing is a safety measure which aims to prevent

high electrical current passing through wires that are
not designed to carry such large charges.

This is very important because if a current which is

too high for the wire is passed through it, the
overheating of the wire presents a serious risk of
fire.
 Consumer Unit

This unit contains all the circuit breakers for the house.
The voltage to the unit will be 240volts a.c
 Consumer Unit
A consumer unit or fuse box is a particular type of
distribution board comprising a co-ordinated
assembly for the control and distribution of
electrical energy, principally in domestic premises.

A consumer unit incorporates a manual means of

isolation on the incoming circuit(s) - a main switch,
and an assembly of one or more fuses, circuit-
breakers or residual current devices.
Main Switch (A)
The main switch allows you to turn off
the electricity supply to the electrical
installation.
Note that some electrical installations
may have more than one main switch.
For example, if your house is heated by
electric storage heaters, you will
probably have a separate main switch
and consumer unit arranged to supply
them.
Circuit Breakers (B)
A circuit-breaker is an automatic
switch fitted to each circuit in the
consumer unit which switches off in
the event of a short circuit, an
overload or a fault to earth on the
circuit.

A circuit-breaker is much the same

size as a fuse holder, but give more
precise protection than cartridge
fuses.

When they 'blow' or 'trip', they are

simply reset
In modern electrical
installations you will also
come across miniature
circuit breakers (mcbs).
An mcb is a device that will
trip a switch to break the
electrical circuit if excessively
high current is detected.
When electricity flows, it also
produces a magnetic field
around the conductors as
Residual Circuit Breaker (C)
(R.C.D)
A residual current device is a
mechanical switching device or
association of devices intended to
cause the opening of the contacts
when the residual current attains a
given value under specific
conditions, such as under earth
fault conditions.
 Residual Circuit Breaker
(R.C.D)
•You will also come across residual current devices
(RCDs).

•These are very sensitive devices providing a high

degree of protection to high risk parts of electrical
systems, such as plug-socket outlets and electric
showers.

•An RCD measures the difference between the current

in the electrical conductors in the system,
e.g. live and neutral, and measures changes in the
electrical current.
 Fuse rating

Ensuring that the appropriate size of fuse is

used – called the fuse rating – can be
worked out using the simple formula:

amps = watts ÷ volts

1/ Which British Standard details the requirements for the
correct installation of electrical components in domestic
properties?

2/ Which part of the Building Regulations covers electrical

installation in dwellings?

3/ What component is used in a domestic property to house

the circuit protection devices
 4/ What type of component is shown in the following
diagram?

5/ What is the name of the electrical component shown

below?
6/ Using the formula Power = Voltage x Current what would
the fuse rating for a 8.5 kW electric shower be on a 230 V
supply?

7/ A cartridge fuse differs from a miniature circuit breaker

(MCB) in the way it works in that
 Session 2

Aims – To provide learners with key job knowledge

to complete Electrical Supply & Earth Continuity.

Objectives – Types of Basic Domestic Circuit and

Wiring Components.
There are two types of circuits.

Ring Main which feeds the plug sockets

The ring circuit has the advantage. Because it is a
loop, power can come from either direction. Damage
to the cable or a socket, means current will still flow.
The ring main is a continuous circuit that starts at the
consumer unit, goes round all the sockets, goes back
and finishes at the consumer unit.
There are usually 2 circuits. One feeds upstairs and
one downstairs.
It uses 2.5mm twin & earth protected by a 32A MCB
or 30 amp fuse. The maximum floor area for a ring
main is 100m²
Radial circuits

A radial power circuit feeds a number of sockets or fused

connection units, but unlike a ring circuit, its cable
terminates at the last socket. The size of the cable and the
fuse rating depending of the size of the floor area to be
supplied by the circuit. In an area of up to 20sq m, the
cable needs to be 2.5mm2 protected by 20A fuse or
MCB. For larger area, up to 50sq m, 4mm2 cable should
be used with 30A fuse (a re-wirable fuse is not allowed)
 Spur outlets

Spur outlets are usually used to connect into

a ring-main circuit on an existing system.

The spur is connected to the ring main

through a junction box, or is wired directly
from the back of an existing socket.

Spurs can be either fused or non-fused.

 Installing a fused spur outlet

Before you start, make sure the cables and fittings are correct
for the job. Check for any damage to the cable, and that it is
the right size and type, and that the fittings have the correct
amp rating. Remember the procedure for isolating the
supply.
The spur outlet should be located close to the appliance or
component it is intended to serve. Check the manufacturer’s
instructions for any specific requirements. You need to connect
to the ring main as close as possible to the spur outlet.
This can be done by locating the nearest socket outlet, lifting a
floorboard and then tracing the wire until it is at the closest
point to the spur.
The cable is cut. It should be tested to make sure that it is the
ring-main circuit and that the cable is sound. The joint on the
ring main will be made using a junction box.
Running the cable to the spur outlet

The spur outlet can be surface-mounted or flush-fitting. If

using a flush fitting, the plaster and block work has to be
chased out to take the box; keep this as neat as possible
to reduce the mess and the amount of making good. A chase
is cut from the hole for the box to the floor level; make sure
this is wide enough to receive plastic capping, which you will
have to fix to protect the cable before making good. In some
cases, you may be able to thread the cable under the floor.
Much will depend on the position of the joists, but in some
cases you may have to drill a hole in the floor. Fit the spur
box by drilling and screwing to the wall. If it is a metal box,
you must include a rubber grommet in the hole that the
cable will pass through. Push the cable through the hole in
the spur and under the floor, and pull the cable to the
junction box.
If you are running the cable through the joists, the hole should be drilled
in the centre to prevent any weakening. Alternatively it can be clipped to
the side or the underside of the joists.
The ends of the ring-main cables and the cable to the junction box are
prepared, and connected live-to-live, neutral-to-neutral and earth-to-earth.

The cable from the junction box to the spur, and the outlet from the spur,
are connected to the back of the spur fitting. Again, if it is a metal box,
you need to take an earth wire from the box to the fused spur. The cable
is now ready to connect to the component or appliance.
When you have completed the work, carry out a visual inspection to
make sure all the connections are sound, the cable routes and fixings
are still where they should be, and the cable has not been damaged
during installation. The installation is tested while still switched off and,
assuming everything is in order, the supply can be turned on.
Radial circuits which feed the permanently
connected appliances such as lighting, cookers,
showers etc.
The radial circuit starts at the unit but finishes at
the last point. Damage to any part of the circuit will
prevent the flow past the damage
 Lighting circuit
This is a radial circuit which feeds each overhead
light or wall light in turn.
To allow the lights to be turned off and on, the live or
phase wire is passed through a wall mounted switch.
Two-way switches are also used (at the top and
bottom of stairs or in long passageways), and these
require special switch controls.
The lighting circuit is usually fed by a 1.5 mm twin
and earth PVC-insulated cable and is protected
by a 6 amp mcb or a 5 amp fuse at the consumer
unit.
You will often find that the lighting in domestic
houses is split into two separate circuits, one for
upstairs and one for downstairs.
Installing fixed electrical appliances

• immersion heaters

• macerator-type WCs & waste-disposal units

• dishwashers & washing machines

•Shower

•Cooker
Immersion heaters

Immersion heaters are not wired directly from the ring main
but from the consume run it in 2.5 mm twin and earth PVC
cable, and have an over current protection device rating of
16 amps. They are fed to a double pole switch, which has to
be located a maximum of 1 m from the connection to
the immersion heater.
The cable between the pole switch and the immersion heater
is 1.5 mm heat-resistant flex, usually butyl. A double-pole
switch is safer than a single pole version, because when it is
turned off
both the live and neutral are isolated. It is most likely that you
would be required to disconnect and reconnect the supply
when
replacing a defective immersion heater.
•A double pole switch is
safer than a single pole
version, in that when it is
turned off both the live
and neutral is isolated.

•It is most likely that you

would be required to
disconnect and reconnect
the supply when replacing
a defective immersion
heater.
Dishwashers and washing machines

These are normally connected via a three-pin plug into a 13

amp socket outlet.
Macerator-type WCs and waste-disposal units

Like central heating control units, these are connected to

the system using a spur outlet. A spur outlet is a bit like a
hidden plug connection; it has the advantage that it cannot
be unplugged accidentally thus turning off the supply to a
control or appliance. It is also less likely to get damaged.
You will probably wire a component or an appliance from
the fused outlet. On some occasions, however, you may
be required to connect into the ring main.
Cooker..6mm cable and 30A mcb.
Shower.. Cable can be
6mm but usually 10mm
cable. It needs a 32-45A
MCB due to the very
high power
consumption.
Radial circuit

A separate, permanently connected supply must be taken

from the consumer unit to the appliance through a double-
pole switch, which has at least 3 mm of contact separation.
The switch can be a ceiling mounted pull cord type within the
shower room, or a wall mounted switch in an adjacent room.
The switch must have a mechanical indicator showing when
the contacts are open. An indicator lamp alone is not
sufficient. It MUST NOT be connected to a ring main, spur,
socket outlet, or lighting

RCD protection
Electric shower has to have a separate radial circuit, which
must be protected by 30mA RCD.
Central Heating Controls
Types of cable and cords

PVC (Polyvinylchloride) insulated and sheathed

cables are the most popular type of cables in
current use and are employed extensively for
electrical installations in domestic dwellings. PVC is
versatile, tough, cheap and easy to work with and
install, and is generally the most economical
material for this type of work. However, its
level of insulation is limited in conditions of
excessive heat and cold, although this is not a
problem in domestic properties. It can also suffer
mechanical damage unless you apply additional
mechanical protection in certain situations.
Types of cable and cords

PVC (Polyvinylchloride) insulated and sheathed cables are the

most popular type of cables in current use and are employed
extensively for electrical installations in domestic dwellings.
PVC is versatile, tough, cheap and easy to work with and
install, and is generally the most economical material for this
type of work. However, its level of insulation is limited in
conditions of excessive heat and cold, although this is not a
problem in domestic properties. It can also suffer mechanical
damage unless you apply additional mechanical protection in
certain situations.
PVC insulated and sheathed flat-wiring cables

This cable is used for domestic and industrial wiring. It is suitable for service
wiring where there is little risk of mechanical damage. It is available as a
two- or three-core. Two or three plain copper, solid or stranded conductors
are individually insulated with PVC and sheathed overall with PVC. An
uninsulated plain copper circuit protective conductor (CPC) lies between the
cores.

The core colours for two-core cables are brown and blue plus earth. For
three-core
cables, they are brown, black and grey plus earth. The sheath colours are
normally
grey or white. The construction of three-core cables is exactly as mentioned
above
with the inclusion of an uninsulated plain copper circuit protective conductor
(CPC) between the coloured cores.
PVC insulated and sheathed flat-wiring cables
Multi-strand PVC-insulated and sheathed cable

This cable is suitable for surface wiring where there is

little risk of mechanical damage. It is normally used for
‘meter tails’ to connect the consumer unit/distribution
board to the PES (Public Electricity Supply) meter,
and
as single core for conduit and trunking runs where
conditions are difficult. The construction of this cable
is PVC-insulated and PVC sheathed solid or stranded
plain copper conductors. The old core colours are
normally black and red, new colours are blue and
brown. Sheath colours are normally black, red or grey,
although other colours are available.
Multi-strand PVC-insulated and sheathed cable
Single core PVC-insulated and sheathed cable

This cable is used for domestic and general wiring. It comprises

a PVC-insulated copper conductor with a PVC sheathed
overall. The old core colours are red or black, new colours are
brown or blue and the sheath colour is normally white or grey.
Heat-resisting PVC-insulated and sheathed flexible
cords

These flexible cords are suitable for use in ambient

temperatures up to 85°C. They are not suitable for use
with heating appliances. Their construction comprises
plain copper flexible conductors insulated with heat-
resisting (HR) PVC and (HR) PVC sheathed.
The core colours for single- and twin-core are brown or
blue; for three-core, brown, blue and green/yellow; and
for four-core, blue, brown, black and green/yellow. The
sheath is white.
Installing PVC cables

Cables are fixed at intervals using

plastic clips, which incorporate a
masonry-type nail.
Where PVC cables are installed
on the surface, the cable should
be run directly into the electrical
accessory, ensuring that the outer
sheathing of the cable is taken
inside the accessory to a
minimum of 10 mm. If the
cable is to be concealed, a flush
box is usually provided at each
control or outlet position.
 Cable runs

Cable runs should be planned so as to avoid

cables having to cross one another, which
would result in an unsightly and unprofessional
finish. When installed in cement or plaster,
they should be protected against damage. This
is done by covering the cable with a plastic or
metal channel or by installing them in an
oval PVC conduit.
Irrespective of usage certain rules apply. Cables passing through
metalwork must go through a rubber grommet to prevent rubbing
and possible wear.

Cables in a roof space must lie on top of any insulation to prevent

overheating. Any knots, kinks or sharp bends must be straightened
out. If left they can lead to overheating and failure. Cables must not
be laid over sharp objects as this may lead to cutting into the
sheath.

PVC-sheathed cables should not come into contact with

polystyrene insulation, as a chemical reaction takes place
between the PVC sheath and the polystyrene resulting
in the migration of polymers from the cable, known as
‘marring’.
In Habitable rooms Sockets need to be a minimum of 450mm from the
finished floor level and light switches, doorbells and intercom systems need
to be at a maximum height of 1200mm. Any electrical switches, outlets or
controls also need to be at least 350mm away from room corners.
 Connecting to terminals

There is a wide variety of conductor terminals.

Typical methods of securing
conductors in fittings are:

• pillar terminals

• claw washers

• screw heads • strip connectors.

• nuts and washers

Pillar terminals

A pillar terminal has a hole through

its side into which the conductor is
inserted and secured by a setscrew.
If the conductor is small in relation
to the hole it should be doubled
back. When two or more conductors
are to go into the same terminal
they should be twisted together.
Care should be taken not to damage
the conductor by excessive
tightening.
Screw-head, nut and washer
terminals

When fastening conductors under screw

heads or nuts, it is best to form the end
of
the conductor into an eye, using round
nosed pliers; the eye should be slightly
larger than the screw shank but smaller
than the outside diameter of the screw
head, nut or washer.
The eye should be placed in such a way
that
rotation of the screw head or nut tends
to
close the joint in the eye. If the eye
is put on the opposite way round,
the motion of the screw or nut will
tend to untwist the eye and will
probably result in a bad contact.
Strip connectors

The conductors are clamped by

means of grub screws in
connectors, which are usually
made of brass and mounted in a
moulded insulated block. The
conductors should be inserted
as far as possible into the
connector so that the pinch
screw clamps the conductor. A
good, clean, tight termination is
essential in order to avoid high
resistance contacts resulting in
overheating of the joint.
1/ The maximum recommended floor area that one ring main
circuit can cover in a domestic property is

2/ Describe a fused spur circuit?

3/ Describe which plumbing component in a domestic property

will usually require a 2.5mm² heat proof flex?
4/ What is the name of the connector shown in the
following diagram?

5/ A rubber bush is used where –

6/ The main wiring connections for a fully pumped central

heating system are usually housed in which of the following?
7/ The recommended height from floor level for a new socket
in a domestic property is between

8/ The maximum distance that embedded cables should be

positioned vertically from wall corners or positioned horizontally
from ceilings is

9/ In a modern three-core flex the colour of the live

conductor is
 Session 3

Aims – To provide learners with key job knowledge

to complete Electrical Supply & Earth Continuity.

Objectives – Requirements for Systems Earthing,

Safe Isolation Procedures and Basic Electrical
Tests
 Electric shock

There are two ways in which a person can receive

an electric shock:

• by direct contact with a live supply

• by indirect contact with a live supply.

 Direct contact
There are ways of preventing direct contact. For
example, the conductors in a cable or flex are protected
with a plastic coating that insulates the live parts of the
system that carry the current. Components such as
pumps and valves using electric motors are also
insulated internally.
Another method is to ensure that, under normal
circumstances, live components are placed within an
enclosure, such as a junction box, which means the
exposed cabling cannot be touched.
 Indirect contact
Indirect contact is prevented by a method called earth
equipotential bonding, which ensures that all exposed
metalwork in a building is bonded together and connected
to the main earthing terminal. Should any exposed metal
become live due to an electrical fault, the current will be
discharged to earth. The fault current will also be detected
by the protective device, which will automatically cut off the
supply.
 Safe isolation
Before working on any electrical supply you must make
sure that it is completely dead and cannot be switched on
accidentally without you knowing. Not only is this a
requirement of the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989,
but it is essential for your personal safety and that of your
customer or co-workers.
The proper way to test if a circuit is live is to use an
approved voltage-indicating
device
Voltage-indicating devices may use either an illuminated
lamp to indicate the
presence of a voltage or a meter scale. Test lamps are
normally fitted with a 15 watt lamp and must be so
constructed that they are not dangerous if the lamp is
broken. They must also be fitted with
protection against excess current, either by a fuse not
exceeding 500 mA or a current-limiting resistor and a
fuse. The test leads should be held captive and sealed
into the body of the voltage detector. Test lamps and
voltage
indicators should be clearly marked with the maximum
voltage that may be tested by the device and the
maximum voltage that the device will withstand.
 Testing
Most fatal accidents involving electricity occur at the isolation
stage. This is when you must be really careful and be aware
of what you are doing, as you may have no
idea of the type of supply you are confronted with. Do not
take any risks, and if you are not sure, seek assistance.

We will look at how to:

• identify sources of supply

• test that the equipment or system is dead
• isolate • begin work
• secure isolation
Standardised procedures have been drawn up by the
Electrical Contracting Industry and these are also used as the
standard for safe working in the plumbing industry.
Identify sources of supply

It is important that you identify both the type of supply

and the source of supply. In domestic dwellings, this
will be a single-phase 240 volt supply to the circuits.

In most cases there are two types of circuit:

• 32 amp ring main for 13 amp socket outlets

• 6 amp lighting circuit.

In addition to these, you may also encounter:

• 16 amp supplies to fixed components such as

immersion heaters
• supplies to other fixed components such as cookers
and central heating systems and showers.
Secure isolation

To prevent the supply being turned on accidentally by

the customer or other co-workers, the fuse or circuit
breaker should be removed and kept in your pocket,
or the isolator locked off, with a special locking-off
device. As an extra precaution, a sign saying ‘work in
progress and system switched off’ must be left at the
consumer unit or the area in which you are working.
 Main equipotential bonding
The method explained here of protecting against indirect contact
using equipotential bonding and automatic disconnection of supply
meets the requirements of the Wiring Regulations (BS
7671:2001). Metal pipe work can provide a route for stray electric
current to go to earth. This could cause an electric shock for
someone touching the live pipe work unless the metal is properly
earthed. It can also cause the pipe work to corrode.
 Main equipotential bonding
The bonding conductor from the main terminal to the
earthing clamp is 10 mm. The bonding to gas, water or other
services should be as close as possible to the point of entry,
and for the gas supply within 600 mm of the meter.
Supplementary bonding

You need to be able to tell if a plumbing installation is correctly

bonded. You can see from the previous diagram that the
equipotential bonding connects only to one point of the pipework.

There are other exposed metal parts within the domestic hot-
water, cold-water and central heating systems, which may not be
protected because they have been isolated from the earth by
plastic fittings, cisterns etc. used in the system.

This affects the conductivity of the pipework as an earth. To

maintain the earth, supplementary cross bonding is used; a
typical layout is shown in the diagram. The bathroom is the
biggest area of risk.
The zones represent the degree of risk – proximity to
water services. The bonding, wiring and connections
are shown by the blue points and lines. It is important
that, on completion of a job, the services as shown in
the illustration– including any supplementary bonding
requirement – are carried out. This work will normally
be done by a qualified electrician and your company
should have advised the customer that the work is
necessary or should have made arrangements to
carry out the electrical work at the same time as you
are completing your plumbing systems installation.
Temporary bonding

If you are required to work on a repair or maintenance job,

it is important that you check that the pipework you are
going to work on is bonded correctly. If you are going to
remove a section of metal pipework or fittings, it is
essential that earth continuity is maintained before any
cutting or disconnection takes place.

A typical piece of kit consists of crocodile clips and a 10

mm conductor, 250 V rating minimum. It is suitable for up
to 28 mm metal pipe. The clips should be placed in a
position to bridge the gap of the pipe or fitting that is going
to be removed. Work can then safely take place. Only
remove the clamps once
the job is complete.
Earth continuity

Earth continuity is making sure that should there be

an electrical fault, all exposed metalwork in a
building is bonded together and connected to the
earthing block in the consumer unit, leaking the
current to earth and automatically disconnecting
the supply. An earth continuity test will verify that
exposed metalwork in a building is bonded
together and connected to the earthing block in the
consumer unit. The ohmmeter leads are connected
between the points being tested, between
simultaneously accessible extraneous conductive
parts – pipework, sinks etc. – or
between simultaneously accessible extraneous
conductive parts and exposed conductive parts
(metal parts of the installation). This test will verify
that the conductor is sound. To check this, move
the probe to the metalwork to be protected. This
method is also used to test the main equipotential
bonding conductors. There should be a low
resistance reading on the ohmmeter.
Polarity

Testing for polarity makes sure that phased

conductors are not crossed somewhere– neutral
from mains connected to live and vice versa
(reversed polarity). In this situation, the system
might still function as expected; however, when
isolated from a switch, the system would be in
dangerous mode. Testing across the conductors,
as detailed above, is carried out to make sure that
no wires have been crossed.
Insulation resistance

Insulation-resistance tests make sure that the insulation of conductors,

electrical
appliances and components is satisfactory, that electrical conductors
and protective conductors are not short-circuited, or do not show a low
insulation resistance (which would indicate a defective insulation).
Before testing, ensure that:

1 Pilot or indicator lamps and capacitors are disconnected from

circuits to avoid an inaccurate test value being obtained.

2 Voltage-sensitive electronic equipment such as dimmer

switches, delay timers, power controllers, electronic starters for
fluorescent lamps, emergency lighting, Residual Current Devices etc.
are disconnected so that they are not subjected to the test voltage.

3 There is no electrical connection between any phase or neutral

conductor (e.g. lamps left in). An insulation resistance of no less than
0.5 M οhms should be achieved
Decommission electrical appliances
or components, including associated
wiring
Your job will require you to take out components
and appliances, and that will include the electrical
supply. Generally speaking, the work will be a
repeat of what you’ve covered earlier, in terms of
safety, isolation and testing, because you’re
working on an electrical supply.
In some cases you’ll decommission an appliance or
a component to repair or replace it, so it’s
disconnect, reconnect. There may be instances,
however, where an appliance is going to be
removed altogether, which would mean the supply
would need to be made safe. This would be done by
taking out the cable back to its isolation point, e.g.
immersion heater isolating switch, fused spur outlet.
All of this should be done following the safety
procedures that we have already learned
.
1/ Which of the following components includes a label
reading 'SAFETY – ELECTRICAL CONNECTION – DO
NOT REMOVE?'

2/ What type of bonding is applied to permanently earth a

remote plumbing appliance to the main earth terminal when
the pipework connecting to it is jointed by plastic fittings?

3/ Earth conductors should always be sheathed in a

PVC sleeve of which colour?
4/ A test for safe isolation of an electrical system should
be carried out using

5/ What type of electrical test is used to establish that live

and neutral conductors have not been crossed?

6/ Which test is used to ensure that exposed metalwork in

a system is connected to earth?
7/ What is the maximum distance ‘X’ from the gas meter
outlet to the main earthing point on the gas line in the
following diagram?