TMFG 7091upto Sizing 111
TMFG 7091upto Sizing 111
TMFG 7091upto Sizing 111
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 1
Course outcomes
• To understand and apply principles and
concepts of textile testing
• Process control with advanced instruments
• Cover the research findings in testing and
process control
• To collect,analyse and compile the findings
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 2
Chapters
• Advanced Testing of fiber, sliver , roving, yarn and
fabric testing methods
• Process control in spinning
• Process control in weaving
• Process control in sizing
• Process control in wet processing
• Machinery audits, waste control, control of yarn
variations
• Productivity in different sections of yarn , winding,
sizing, loom and processing
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 3
Assessment Method
The Lecture and Practical will be evaluated separately for 100 % and the
final marks will be arrived accordingly. The details are given below:
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 4
Fiber measurements
• Staple length-density of tuft changes more
rapidly-0.91*effective length
• Effective length-machine settings are related
• Span length:
• A strand of fibers caught by lamp-all loose
fibers to the right are removed-no of fibers
12000—imagine to move the clamp until 3oo
fibers are counted…distance D is SL (diagram)
• UR%=S50/S2.5*100
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 5
• Bale Management
This is based on the categorising of cotton bales according to
their fibre quality characteristics. It includes the measurement
of the fiber characteristics with reference to each individual
bale, separation of bales into classes and lying down of
balanced bale mixes based on these classes. The reason for
undertaking this work lies in the fact that there is sometimes a
considerable variation in the fibre characteristics from one bale
to another, even within the same delivery. This variation will
result in the yarn quality variation
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 6
Bale management
• The software, normally embedded with an HVI, helps in selection of bales
for a particular mix from the available stock. Once the data are received
from HVI in the software, classification of bales in groups are done with
user defined criteria.
• Manual calculation errors and the tedious task of day to day manual
planning of mix are avoided.
• The storage of large number of data enables for tracking long period
records or results thereby helping in clear analysis.
• More cost effective mix can be made since cost factor is also included. It
also helps in planning for further requirements or purchase.
• Additional details such as party name, weighment details, and rejection
details can be printed along with the test results which will be useful for
the mill personnel for better analysis.
• Flexible intervals in grouping of bales with reference to the selected
category.Basic sample results and results checked after lot arrival shall be
compared graphically or numerically for easy decision making of approval
or rejection.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 7
HVI
Merits:
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 8
Advanced fiber information system
• Principle --aeromechanical fiber processing followed
by electro-optical sensing , high speed
microprocessor computing and data processing
• System consists of a feed roller,feed plate , opening
roller and a carding cylinder
• 500 mg of fiber sample is inserted between the feed
roller and feed plate of the instrument
• Opening rollers open the fiber assembly and
separates fiber,neps, trash and dust
• Trash and dust suctioned off to extraction.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 9
• On their way thro transportation and acceleration
channels, the fibers and neps pass thro an optical
sensor, which determines the no. And size of the
neps
• Corresponding impulses are converted into electrical
signals, which are then transmitted to micro
computer for evaluation process.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 10
OPTIMUM FIBER-MIX
• Raw material-60-70%,salaries-10%,power-10-
15%,stores-3%,overheads-8%,interest-
4%,depreciation-4%,net profit,gross,sales turnover,
per spindle /year
• Product to be 1.quality to norms 2.optimum cost…
• Prevent before it occurs…
• Technical controls, machine maintenance ,testing
and consolidation &interpretation of data, statistical
techniques, fixing up norms and standards and
periodic review
• Export requirements-
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 11
Control of mixing quality
• Cost-season,stock,yield ,growth,price fluctuations..
• Raw material requirements-calculation for 25000 spl
mill…Rietermachines…125GMS/SPL…8300kgs..18000
• Fiber properties—lusm/f---lu- 50%span length (2.5%
SLXUR%),s—bundle strength gms/tex,m-maturity
coeff.,f-microgms/inch.
• Bale management technique
• Clean cotton..cx100/100-t
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 12
Flow chart
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 13
Principle of Fiber to yarn conversion
•Convert a high variable raw
material to a very consistent
fiber strand.
•Variability exists Within
bales, Between bales within
one mix, and Between mixes
(lay downs).
•Quality criteria is high
degree of uniformity,
consistent properties along
the yarn.
•fibers are normally
intermingled with all kinds of
trash, dust, seed coat
fragments,…
•The yarn produced must be
pure, clean and defect free
and high efficiency.
Principle
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 14
Blowroom
• Short Staple Pre-Spinning Machinery
• All Modern Spinning mills are equipped by some sort
of Automatic Bale Opener.
• In General short lines, does not need material
handling, and hence less reliable for faults.
• Short staple pre-spinning emphasized compact lines
with integrated multifunctional equipment.
• Major emphases were placed upon equipment
allowing for a compact 800 Kg/hr opening line, an
integrated separator, a more precise removal of
foreign material and waste control
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 15
Rieter VarioSet Blowing room/Carding room
• The main task of opening room is to open the big
flocks to small tufts, cleaning i.e. trash removing,
fiber mixing and even feed for carding machine.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 16
Trutschler Modular Opening Component Line
The Different machines comprising the opining line are multi functional
• New features are installed such foreign matter separator to prevent mixing
of different fibers in the blend
• Completely automated and computerized control, vision system is enabled
on-line
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 17
Control of waste/cleaning
• Cleaning efficiency-trash content –shirley trash
analyser-100gms
• Trash in mixing-trash in delivery/t in mixingX100.
• Mono-25-30%,ERM-25-30%,Beaters-10%-norms
• CE%-amount of trash in mxg,type of trash,machine
settings and position of machine –modern lines rieter
and truszler
• Performance of BR and card-waste diff of 10% of
norm and CE% of 4% value of real diff
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 18
Blending Bale Opener
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 20
Gentle opening is achieved by having the first
beater clothed in pins angled ca. 10∞from
Cleanomat CL-C4
the vertical, and the remaining beaters having
saw-tooth clothing, the tooth angle
increasing from roller to roller (e.g. 15∞,
30∞, 40∞).
The teeth density (number of points per cm2)
should also progressively increase from
beater 1 to 4, depending on fineness of the
fiber being produced.
Importantly, the beater speeds should
progressively increase from beater 1 to 4 (for
example 300, 500, 800, 1200, rmin–1).
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 21
Details of Cameras and
Separation Nozzles
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CARDING
There is no processing stage that changes the form, assignment, condition, and
composition of the cotton so strongly as the carding process does. Opened and
cleaned materials arrive at the carding stage in the form of small tufts composed of
entangled fibers. the purpose of the carding stage is to disentangle these tufts into a
collection of individual fibers, the collection being in the form of a web of fibers, and
then to consolidate this collection into a sliver. Rate of production and quality
should be optimized. High production Production rate increased since 1965 from 5
kg/h to 100 kg/h
Definition: Carding is the action of reducing tufts of entangled fibers into a filmy web
of individual fibers by working the tufts between closely spaced surfaces clothed
with opposing sharp points.
THE TASKS OF CARD
Opening to individual fibers, Elimination of impurities, Elimination of dust,
Disentangling of neps, Elimination of short fibers, Fiber blending, Fiber orientation,
Sliver formation. Three types that are of importance in the processing of: cotton,
wool and man-made fibers: 1.revolving flat card , 2.worsted card, 3.woolen card
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THE REVOLVING FLAT CARD
Carding
12/26/2022 action PROCESS/SAMPATH
Doffing action 24
OPTIMUM CLEANING AT CARD
• Type of card,not on trash,uniform waste between cards.
Betn.+_0.5% ,cleaning eff =95%
• Areas of correction lickerin and flat strips
• Mote knives, lickerin speed ,lickerin wire, undercasing,
feed plate
• Flat speed front plate back plate, cyl and flats setting
• Neps-types-process , mixed , immature, dead , fuzz neps
• Assessment of neps-AFIS
• Control-beater selection,beating points,speed of beater,fan
speed ratio,length of ducts,condition of beater pins,RH%
• FIBER RUPTURE TEST
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12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 30
DRAWING
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 31
Features of drawing frame
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Lap forming
Conventional (Lap Doubling) method: Sliver Lap (D=16…24, V=1.1 ….2) and Ribbon Lap
(D=6, V=6)
•16 to 32 are fed to a sliver lap machine, of three pairs of drafting rolls followed by
two pairs of calender rolls
•Lap pf 50 to 70 g/m, width of 230 to 300 mm and diameter of 500mm and weight of
to 27Kg. Draft ratio commonly is 1.5 to 2.5.
Laps from the sliver lap machine are taken to the ribbon lap machine thin sheets
from the heads are led down over a curved plate, which turns at a right angles,
inverts them and superimpose one upon the others
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 37
Combing process II
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 38
COMBING
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PROCESS CONTROL
• Optimum level of comber waste---depends on the nature of
fiber length distribution in mixing , below 15mm length is
removed, optimum waste =0.5xSF%
• Comber should remove all fibers in lap shorter than the
minimum distance d mm between nipper and back detaching
rollers-detachment setting..f mm feed/nip then all fibers
longer than d+f should go to sliver and shorter to waste
• Fractionating efficiency—degree to which comber succeeds in
removing all the fibers shorter than d without losing and
fibers longer than d+f
• Lea count variation
• Head to head waste –1min--tolerance limit –1.00%-group of
m/cs
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 40
Norms for quality at combers
Mixing Med Fine superfi REAL
USTER U%=5.0% group ium ne DIFF
CV% Of sliver =1.5%
Between combers =3.0
Stoppages per comber per hour=2 NOIL 10- 14-16 16-18 1 %
• WASTE AND QUALITY 12
Inadequate removal of short fibers and neps
Check for head to head Short 40 50 60 10%
Check individual heads for web defects— fiber
uncombed portions, slippage of fibers removal
under
detaching rollers , loading , air currents in Imp.in 10 12 15 4%
mean
brush and aspirator, check noil for long length
fibers
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YARN TEST RESULTS
• COUNT CONTROL
• Quality of raw material ,production technology, machine
condition, technical controls
• Within and between bobbin variation-accounts for
65%between and 35% within—blow room and
cards(14%),DF(67%),FF(9%),RF(10%)
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 43
Range method
• Value of K factor estimating s.d from range
method =2/0.89,3/0.59,4/0.49
Sw:0.59x1.34=0.791,So:0.49x2.69=1.318
CVw=0.791/26.99x100=2.90%(within)
Cvo=1.318/26.99x100=4.98% (overall)
CVb= root of (CVo2-CVw2)=3.9(between)
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 44
CAUSES OF WITHIN BOBBIN
• High card and comber sliver u%
• Defective draw frame drafting-Ist and IInd head of DF
• Web tension drafting drawing
• FF irregular drafting and stretching (improper bobbin speed
regulation),cone drum belt
• Can effect-withdrawal of sliver from can
• Stretch between creel and back roller
• Excessive pinion changes at RF
• 0.13 mm at blow room—13 mm at card—75 mm at DF I,45cm
at DFII,4.5 m a
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 45
BETWEEN BOBBIN COUNT VARIATION
• Excessive tuft size variation
• Pinion changes at drawing and spinning
• Same draw frame for breaker and finisher
• Setting difference Finisher and Breaker
• Stretch in roving, belt shifting, lower twist at roving,
bare bobbin dia
• Creel draft at RF, Top roller pressure
• Draft difference in group of cards and comber
• No group feeding ,waste control
• Routine control of count
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 46
CONTROL OF STRENGTH VARIATION
• 50% of variation in strength is due to variation in count
• 1.5 times the cv % count,
• Excessive yarn unevenness,difference in twist,eccentric
rollers, wornout aprons,top roller pressure in
DF,RF,spindle vibration,eccentricity, quality of
drafting,combing mech.condition,quality of mixing
• Assessment of yarn evenness
• The voltage applied across the condenser vary in
proportion to the mass of material present between
plates.so, the variability measured on evenness teser is
that of wt/unit length 8-10mm..16 bobbins,RF group,count
group ,1000mts avg.U%
• Uster statistics
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 47
Yarn imperfections
• Measurement of thin places is based on a test length
equal to width of condenser
• Thick places-1.5 times the condenser width
• Neps are distinguished from thick places by rate of
change of thickness is much higher for neps than for
long thick places—200% indicates 3 times the yarn dia
• Types of irregularity
• Random, periodic and quasi-periodic
• Limit of yarn irregularity
• CV%=106/root of N ,where N=15000/count Xgms/inch
• Causes of thick thin and neps
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 48
Causes of thin and thick places
• Increases with increase of U% and factors affecting
• Very high draft..draft exceeds capacity of drafting…
effect of carding
• Simple rule…if in any yarn (thick-thin) is
comparable to good yarn or negative ---there is
unfavorable drafting
• Thick-thin is more than good yarn look for carding,
combing and %short fibers
• Neps to be studied separately—card reduces 30-
40%,combing 25%
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Hairiness
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 50
Machine audits
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 51
Energy audits
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 52
Classimat analysis
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 53
Yarn faults
• Slubs: are fish-shaped thick places from 1-4 cm long
and about 5-8 times larger than avg yarn dia at the
thickest portion..Integral part of the yarn but having less
twist in it.—can pass thro traveller,not able to break in
winding..yarn clearing efficiency..knot factor(1)…quality
factor…
• Crackers: are short coil like places in the yarn, occur
frequently in 100% pet,p/c blends, may not open out at
tension in winding but caught at slub catcher..forward pull
of fibres at front roller nip is not more than retarding
forces acting on the near ends of these fibers..poor grip
at front roller and excessive middle roller grip..inc top arm
presure,top rolls, wider spacers, inc break draft,reduce
twist in roving, wider setting, avoid stop of RF at chase
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 54
Yarn faults
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 55
• EFFECT =Increase in end breaks Higher yarn waste
CAUSES=Improper ring rail movement
• Worn builder cam
• Loose package and excessive coils in the package
• Soft build of cops
• Improper empties fit on the spindles and slack tapes
RECTIFICATION
Ring rail movement to be set right
• Optimum ratio of winding: bindings coils and
optimum chase length to be maintained
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 56
Indices of productivity
• Production and productivity:
• Production and productivity Production refers to the quantity
produced. Productivity is a measure of the efficiency or rate of
production. It is the amount of output per unit input (per machine,
per labour etc.)
• Productivity in Spinning:
• Productivity in Spinning Main Productivity Parameters in Spinning
Labour Productivity and Machine Productivity Labour productivity
indices: HOK, OHS Machine productivity indices: SH, MPI
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 57
• Labour productivity indices:
• Labour productivity indices HOK – Number of
operative hours required to produce 100 kgs of
yarn.
• OHS - Operatives per 1000 spindles. HOK will
take in to account all the operatives
(production, maintenance and other ancillary)
used in the spinning unit up to Ring Spinning
excluding combers.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 58
• Since HOK would depend on the count being spun, it is
important to express the production per spindle achieved
to a standardized production. Since Ne 40 is a widely used
yarn count both in weaving as well as knitting, a method
to convert the yarn production per spindle per 8 hours to
a standardized production adjusted to Ne 40s (carded) is
being used.
• A mill can compare its productivity between months and
also judge its performance against standard, regardless of
the differences in the counts being produced.
• The standards are fixed such that they reflect the
productivity levels being attained or excelled by the top
10% of the mills in the industry.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 59
• Operatives who are included in HOK calculation are mixing attendants,
machine tenters , doffers, interval relievers and ancillary operatives such
as jobbers ( maistries / over lookers ), fitters, fitter helpers, machine
cleaners, oilers, tape stitchers , roller coverers, top arm draft zone
cleaners, sweepers and materials handlers (lap/sliver cans/ bobbins/cops/
waste).
• Operatives who are not included in HOK calculation are contaminants
removers, operatives pertaining to comber and its preparatory machines,
electrical, generators, humidification plant and workshop workers, watch
and ward, attendees , investigators, gardeners, hostel/guest
house/quarters workers, dispensary workers, canteen/mess workers,
drivers, sanitary workers, civil workers, etc.
• The SITRA standard assumes that the mill has a chute fed blow-room
line, cards with automatic can changer, automatic waste evacuation
system, draw frames with auto-can changer and the finisher with auto-
leveller, high speed simplex frames and longer length ring frames .
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 60
• Adjusted HOK calculation Adjusted HOK is computed by
multiplying the actual production in ring frames by
relevant conversion factors. The production so computed
is called as standardized production.
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 61
• Production adjusted to 40s
• The overall production per spindle (P) converted to Ne 40s
can be calculated from the following formula.
Count wise standardized production kgs/total spindle
shifts corresponding to above productionX1000
• OHS (Operative per thousand spindles) /Count wise
Standardized Production X 100
• Number of operatives per thousand spindles adjusted to
Ne 40s is given by the following formula :
• OHS (Operative per thousand spindles):P XHOK/800 where
P and HOK are adjusted to 40S
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 62
Machine Productivity Indices
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 63
NORMS
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 64
Level of modernization and work assignments (major
categories)
assumed for the standard mill(30000spls)
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 65
Adjusted to 40s-BR to spinning
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 66
Work load
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 67
Yarn realization and process waste
• Y.R.%=(92-T)………(95-T)(1-c/100)-3
• Blow room-same as trash,carding-4to 5%, yarn waste-0.3-
0.4%, invisible loss-0.5%
• C+W=Y+E(Sd+Rd+Wd)+1…
• C-cotton issued,
• W—waste added,
• Sd—closing stock less opening stock,
• Rd—proces and sweep waste,
• Wd-white waste,
• Y-prodn in depts,
• I-invisible loss
• E-Sigma
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 68
Cone winding
• Objective –produce good package, remove
objectionable faults, type of machine, clearing
efficiency and with satisfactory level of
production
• Process control in winding
• Quality of knots/splices
• Process parameters like setting ,tension wt
• End breakage rate
• Maintenance/machine audit
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 69
Quality of knots/splices
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 70
Package faults
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 71
Ribboning
• EFFECT
High level of slough off during unwinding
• Excessive yarn waste
• Uneven dye pick up in the case of dye packages
•
CAUSESWinding spindle not revolving freely
• Cone holders incorrectly set
• Defective settings of cam switch
• Lint accumulation in builder cam groove
•
RECTIFICATION
Over hauling of cone winders to be periodically carried out
• Anti ribboning mechanism to be checked at frequent interval
• Free movement of the cone holders to be ensured by proper lubrication
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 72
Package faults
• Stitches or jali-yarn falling outside the edge package-reasons being large
tension variations, stop motion failure, cuts in yarn guides traverse
restrictors, play between package and spindle
• Soft nose or base-incorrect alignment of tension bracket cone axis
with the drum
• Bell shaped cones
EFFECT -Excessive breaks during subsequent
processes
CAUSES-High yarn tension during winding
Cone holders incorrectly set to the winding drum
Damages in paper cone centre
RECTIFICATION -Quality of cones to be checked at
that time of procurementOptimum
unwinding tension to be maintained
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 73
YARN FAULTS , CAUSES AND ITS REMEDIES PACKAGE DEFECTS, CAUSES AND ITS REMEDIES
SLUBS,NEPS
SARL
THICK&THINK PLACES
SLOUGH OFFRING CUTS
LOW COP CONTENT
SOFT YARN
IMPROPER BUILD
STITCHING ON CONE
OIL STAINED YARN
RIBBON WOUND CONE
SOFT BUILD CONE
CRACKERS
BELL SHAPED CONE
NOSE BULGING
BAD PIECING
COLLAPSED CONE
RING SHAPED CONE
OILY SLUB
IMPROPER LEASING
LOOSE END IN HANKS
KITTY YARN
LONG/SHORT TIE YARNS
MORE THREADS IN HANKS
HAIRINESS
ENTANGLED THREADS
LESSER HANKS IN KNOTS
FOREIGN MATTERS
LESSER LENGTH OF YARN
NON UNIFORM SPACING
SPUN IN FLY
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 74
Control of productivity
• End breakage rate--Record of production-
• Cop content---- Doff weight
• Winding speed--- Scheduled check on speed
• Spindle allocation--Work assignment
• Machine condition
• Expected level of productivity
• Good winder practices
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 75
warping
Warping process control involves
1.control of tension in the yarn
2.maintenance of machine setting and mechl.condition
3.minimizing package defects at winding
4.regular check on end breakage rate with norm
Control of tension
a. Between different stages of unwinding of the package
b. Between ends
a, is due to balloon height as the yarn unwinding from nose to
base and base to nose
b is due to differences in length of yarn between first thread
guide and head stock, no. of guide points in the creel, angle
of reflections
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 76
• Designing of creel- larger the creel height or longer the
creel length more will be the variation…recommended to
have 2 mts height and a distance 2 mts between the
head stock and nearest column of the creel
• 1.Condition of machine-a)alignment of package at the
creel..b)eccentric guide rollers..c)thread guides..
• 2.RH% 60% RH and 29 C..Lower humidity increases
hairiness, fluff and end breaks
• Performance in warping-
• Breaks /unit length of yarn ie., breaks /400
ends/1000mts…at least 1 lakh meter to be observed
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 77
End breaks in warping
No of ends 500/ 480/ 500/ 500/ Total/ B/400
11000 11000 10000 10000 40000 mts ENDS/1
000
MTS
COUNT
SPEED
TENSION
End breaks
due to
Soft,slub,fluff
etc.,
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 78
Quality of warping beams
• Condition of beam flanges-anti vibration mount
• Stop motion and brake-broken end getting buried
• Driving drum-pressure betn drum and beam
• Barrel diameter-20 cm to avoid tension variation
• Creel fans – positive exhaust
• Length measuring device
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 79
Sizing
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 80
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 81
1.Choice of sizing recipe and pick up
• Ingredients used to be compatible with each other, eg
CMC is for medium and heavy reed and pick fabrics
about 10% of the starch favorable
• Type of yarn also influences PVA, Acryl ate for synthetics
and starch based recipes for cotton
• For fine and superfine counts boiling starches of lower
viscosity is preferred..sow box design, temperature
control, squeeze pressure
• Optimum size pick up by control trails
• Normal size% can be fixed at a value in the trail curve
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 82
Size recipe
12/26/2022 PROCESS/SAMPATH 83
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Splicing