The document discusses cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. It defines cosmetics according to Indian and European regulations as products intended to cleanse, beautify or alter appearance. Cosmeceuticals provide both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmetics are classified by use, function and physical nature. Common cosmeceutical ingredients include retinoids, sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidants and peptides which have skin benefits beyond basic cleansing and beautification. The evolution of cosmeceuticals from traditional cosmetics incorporated therapeutic ingredients supported by research.
The document discusses cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. It defines cosmetics according to Indian and European regulations as products intended to cleanse, beautify or alter appearance. Cosmeceuticals provide both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmetics are classified by use, function and physical nature. Common cosmeceutical ingredients include retinoids, sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidants and peptides which have skin benefits beyond basic cleansing and beautification. The evolution of cosmeceuticals from traditional cosmetics incorporated therapeutic ingredients supported by research.
The document discusses cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. It defines cosmetics according to Indian and European regulations as products intended to cleanse, beautify or alter appearance. Cosmeceuticals provide both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmetics are classified by use, function and physical nature. Common cosmeceutical ingredients include retinoids, sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidants and peptides which have skin benefits beyond basic cleansing and beautification. The evolution of cosmeceuticals from traditional cosmetics incorporated therapeutic ingredients supported by research.
The document discusses cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. It defines cosmetics according to Indian and European regulations as products intended to cleanse, beautify or alter appearance. Cosmeceuticals provide both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmetics are classified by use, function and physical nature. Common cosmeceutical ingredients include retinoids, sunscreens, moisturizers, antioxidants and peptides which have skin benefits beyond basic cleansing and beautification. The evolution of cosmeceuticals from traditional cosmetics incorporated therapeutic ingredients supported by research.
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COSMETIC AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCT
Dr. R. R. Thenge Professor, Department of Pharmaceutics, Dr. Rajendra Gode College of Pharmacy, Malkapur COSMETIC AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS
• Definition of Cosmetics as per Indian Regulation As per
D&C Act 1940 and rule 1945. • "COSMETICS is defined as any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetics" • DRUG "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals. COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS COSMETIC Vs COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS • A deodorant is a cosmetic but an antiperspirant is a drug. • A shampoo is a cosmetic but an antidandruff shampoo is a drug. • A suntan product is a cosmetic but a sunscreen product is a drug. • A skin exfoliant is a cosmetic but a skin peel is a drug. • A skin product to hide acne is cosmetic but an anti-acne product is a drug. • A skin moisturizer is a cosmetic but a wrinkle remover is a drug. • An antibacterial deodorant soap is a cosmetic but an antibacterial anti- infective soap is a drug. • A lip softener is a cosmetic but a product for chapped lips is a drug. • A toothpaste is a cosmetic but an anti-caries toothpaste is drug. • A mouthwash is cosmetic but an anti-gingivitis mouth wash is a drug. Definition of Cosmetics as per European Union Regulation
• The European Union Cosmetics Directive defines a
cosmetic as "any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and correcting body odors and protecting them or keeping them in good condition." CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS • Classification of Cosmetics • I. According to their use. • II. According to their functions. • III. According to their physical nature. Cosmetics according to their use a) Use for skin: e.g. creams, powders, lotions, deodorants, antiperspirants, etc. b) Use for the nails: e.g. nail polish, nail polish removers, manicure preparations etc. c) Use for the teeth and mouth: e.g. dentifrices and mouth washes. d) Use for the eyes: e.g. eye creams, eye lashes and eye liners. e) Use for the hairs: e.g. shampoo, hair removers, hair dyes, hair tonics and hair sprays. Cosmetics according to their function
a) Curative or therapeutic function: e,g.
antiperspirants and hair preparations. b) Protective functions: e.g. face powders. c) Corrective functions: e.g. face powders. d) Decorative functions: e.g. lipsticks, nail polishes and eye lashes etc. Cosmetics according to their physical nature 1) Aerosols: e.g. hair perfumes, after shave lotion. 2) Cakes: e.g. rouge compacts, make up compacts. 3) Emulsions: e.g. vanishing cream, cold cream, cleansing cream, all-purpose cream. 4) Oils: e.g. hair oils. 5) Pastes: e.g. tooth paste, deodorant paste. 6) Powders: e.g.face powder, tooth powder, talcum powder etc. 7) Solutions: e.g. after shave lotions, hand lotions, astringent lotion. 8) Soaps: e.g. shaving soaps, toilet soap, and shampoo soap. 9) Sticks: e.g. lipsticks, deodorant sticks Classification of Cosmeceutical Products The term cosmeceuticals were introduced by Albert Kligman in 1984 to refer to substances that exerted both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Every day, there seem to be more and more terms describing what we are referring to as cosmeceuticals. They are classified as follows: a. Beauty supplements b. Active cosmetics c. Bio-active cosmetics d. Performance cosmetics e. Phytocosmetics f. Functional cosmetics g. Dermaceuticals h. Skinceuticals i. Cosmetic drugs j. Therapeutic cosmetics Another approach to classify cosmeceuticals is based on the ingredient they contain which is enlisted and explained in the following section. 1. Retinoids These are the most prevalent cosmeceuticals in the market. Retinoids are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A. These are premier evidence-based cosmeceuticals, as they function through surface cell receptor interaction to produce a clinically defined effect. Other retinoids such pro-B vitamins (niacinamide and panthenol) function differently by physically enhancing barrier properties of stratum corneum. 2. Sunscreens : They are regarded s dermatologists as single most important formulation that should be applied daily. UVA and UVB radiation contribute to the disruption of the extracellular matrix, a hallmark of photoaging. Broad spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreens are the cornerstone of photoaging therapy. Enzophenones (dioxybenione, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone) give protection in the UVB and UVA II range. 3. Moisturizers : Moisturizers arc most useful products for management of various skin conditions (e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, aging). These products include emollients, occlusives and humectants. Majority of moisturizers enhance skin barrier function. These are useful for hydrated skin. Moisturizers claim to make skin smoother, softer, more radiant, less wrinkled and firmer. Moisturizers based on some materials such as petrolatum, silicone, mineral oil and glycerin enhance skin barrier functions. 4. Antioxidants Enhance the skin's natural antioxidant protection system with topical application. They reduce free- radical damage by blocking the oxidative processes in cells. These are used to protect skin from photo damage, cancer and photo aging. Antioxidants inhibit inflammation that causes collagen depletion. Some antioxidants include vitamins A, C and E; alpha lipoic acid, lactobionic acid, ubiquinone, idebenone, polyphenols (catechins and flavonoids) etc. 5. Hydroxy acids: These include a hydroxy acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid) and hydroxy acids (salicylic acid). Hydroxyacids are used worldwide as active dermatological drug and cosmetic ingredient. The exact mechanism of action of hydroxyacids is unknown. Some experts claim that AHAs increase the synthesis of glucosaminoglycans which improve quality of elastic fibers, and increase density of collagen. Whereas BHAs have dermolytic properties and help in various xerotic and ichthyotic disorders. 6. Depigmentation Agents: Hydroquinone, aloesin, arbutin, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acids are' multple Depigmentation agents. Hydroquinone is effective and widely used in treatment of melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It acts by inhibiting conversion of tyrosine to melanin. 7. Protins and peptides: Cosmeceuticals peptides have the potential to improve the apperance of aging skin. The various types of cosmetic peptides include signal peptides, career peptides and neurotransmitters inhibiting peptides. Cosmeceutical peptides triggers wound healing mechanism that that activate fibroblast in response to fragmented chain of elastin and colllagen . Peptide increase collagen production to improve skin appearance, resulting in smoother skin. 8. Growth Factors • Epidermal growth factors (EGF) stimulate epidermal growth and are useful in the treatment of burns and excision wounds, where it accelerates re-epithelization. Transforming growth factors (TGF) stimulate normal skin growth and cellular growth and repair. TGF exerts positive regulatory effects on the accumulation of the body's extracellular matrix proteins. TGF is also a mediator of fibrosis (repair tissue formation) and angiogenesis (development of new blood cells) EVOLUTION OF COSMECEUTICALS FROM COSMETICS Up to the 19th century, there was no clear distinction between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals; • The separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed. • Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980s due to hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles. • Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists, coined the term 'Cosmeceutical' in 1961. • In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by developing a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using retinoic acid. • They are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain ingredients that influence the skin's biological function. • Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin. • Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are • efficacy, • safety, • formulation stability, • novelty, • and patent protection, metabolism within skin and inexpensive to manufacture. Even though some other products claim to be unique botanical extracts or containing some rare ingredients with magic antiaging properties, most of the cosmeceutical formulations use fundamental ingredients such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q-10, ceramides, alpha lipoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, aloe vera, panthenol, kinetin and vitamins A, C, E. COSMETICS AS QUASI AND OTC DRUGS • Quasi definition is - having some resemblance usually by possession of certain a ttributes. • OTC (over-the-counter) medicines are safe and effective drugs used by the general public. • Similarly, cosmetic products can be considered as OTCs. Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. Certain claims may cause a product to be considered a drug, even if the product is marketed as a cosmetic. Likewise, certain active ingredients can cause a product to be considered a drug owing to their therapeutics use. OTC product compliant with the OTC drug monograph may be marked without prior FDA approval. Antidandruf shampoo and sunscreen product considerd to be OTC. • OTC must be manufactured and controlled in accordance with cGMP requirement for pharmaceuticals for human consumption.