Biologique Recherche's Iconic P50 Is a Facial In a Bottle, Here's Why

As far as classic skincare products go, Biologique Recherche's Lotion P50 is at the top of the list. Lauded by celebrities such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bella Hadid, and Nicole Richie, P50 has earned its A+ reputation for its ability to erase dark spots, balance complexions, and shrink the appearance of pores by tenfold. In short, it's a dream come true.

The French skincare brand launched the first version of Lotion P50 in 1970 with the goal of creating an exfoliating product that wouldn't throw off the skin's natural pH levels. It was an instant hit and has continued to reign decade after decade. The name comes from a combination of two things: One being the "P" for "peeling action," which is what the skin does when it sheds dead skin cells as a result of the exfoliation, and two being "50" which refers to the approximate number of days needed to see the full results of the Biologique Recherche product. Curious to see if P50 Lotion lives up to the hype, I decided to test it.

Below, learn about the pros and cons of the Biologique Recherche icon, read about my experience, and hear what three skin experts have to say about the product.

What Is the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50?

In order to understand the product, it’s important to understand the founders' approach to skincare. “The epidermis is everything,” Phillipe Allouche, a clinical doctor and the Research & Creative Director at Biologique Recherche, tells me at the Ciel Spa in the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, where I have just received a signature Biologique Recherche facial. “The epidermis is a platform for information—filtering, buffering, directing information from outside to inside and inside to outside. And it’s our last fortress against free radicals, so it has to be strong—it has to be protecting us.”

Allouche says it’s important for the ecosystem of your skin—which includes the pH and lipid levels—to be healthy, even with the naturally occurring bacteria flourishing as a function of protection, just like probiotics in your gut. "pH balance is key to a healthy skin barrier that works properly to protect us and skin that looks its best," furthers dermatologist, Brooke Jeffy, MD. Furthermore, she explains that the skin normally has a slightly acidic pH. "If pH gets too high, your skin may become dry, irritated, inflamed, and sensitive; if it gets too low you may experience redness and irritation," she adds.

So, the idea is that if you have a balanced, flourishing epidermis, ingredients can penetrate and affect what’s going on beneath the surface; otherwise, they may not be as effective, no matter how “active” they are.

This was the mindset that spurred the creation of P50 and its reiterations, which include exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid and salicylic acid and promises to balance your skin’s pH, regulate oil production, brighten dark spots, even skin texture, and help with acne.

The Ingredients

• AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids): The formula's potent blend of exfoliating acids—tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and salicylic acid—helps to slough off dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and even skin texture.
• Gluconolactone: Yet another exfoliating agent, gluconolactone is what is known as a PHA (polyhydroxy acid). PHAs are a newer generation of hydroxy acids, similar to AHAs, but gentler and less likely to irritate the skin.
• Vinegar (Acetic Acid): A kitchen cabinet staple, vinegar is a key component in Lotion P50. It helps maintain the skin's natural pH balance while aiding in exfoliation.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): This popular ingredient is known for its anti-inflammatory properties as well as its ability to support skin barrier function and health. Additionally, niacinamide can help boost hydration and reduce redness or irritation.

About My Skin: A mixed bag

To say that my skin and I have had a tumultuous relationship is putting it lightly. The best way to describe my skin is combination/oily. During my teenage years, I dealt with acne, and my early 20s introduced super oily skin. I'm also a bit prone to random breakouts, not to mention that getting my oily T-zone and my large nose pores under control is one of my biggest struggles. Right now, my main issues are dull skin tone, random bits of texture, and my supreme enemy: adult acne.

The Scent: Super strong

Thanks to ingredients like onion extract, horseradish, and vinegar, Lotion P50 has an extremely strong smell. Thankfully, it doesn't linger, so you don't have to worry about your face smelling like an onion all day.

The Feel: Thin and lightweight

Lotion P50 has a watery, lightweight texture that absorbs quickly into the skin. The instructions say you can apply with your hands or a cotton pad (here are some we like); I chose to pat it into my skin like an essence because 1) I don’t like wasting product, and 2) a part of me wanted to see if I would experience the redness and tingling others boast so much about. Spoiler: I didn’t. Other than inhaling a strong vinegary scent, I did not feel the flush or burn on my skin like I was secretly hoping I would. I was somewhat appeased knowing that the tingling can occur if your skin is out of whack and can feel the solution's acidity, so perhaps my skin is just incredibly balanced.

The Results: Clear, balanced skin

I used the P50 consistently for a few weeks, religiously patting it in after cleansing and sometimes following with the Placenta Crème, which looks and smells like the P50 in moisturizer form and was recommended to me by the esthetician.

After a few weeks, I do think my skin looks and feels more balanced. I’m usually very oily, but I found that my forehead was less shiny during my midday blotting check. Also, when I slacked and forgot to use it for a few days in a row, I could’ve sworn I saw new blackheads creep around my nose. My pores (sadly) looked the same size, but overall, my skin felt brighter, clearer, and cleaner, if that makes sense. A weird part of me actually likes the smell now. Call it conditioning, but I almost crave the product on certain nights; my skincare routine doesn’t feel complete without it. At least I can rest assured that my skin is reaping the benefits of my addictive habits.

The Value: An Investment

Lotion P50 is available in three different sizes: 1.7 oz., 5.1 oz., and 8.5 oz. The largest size is pricey, at $138, but it provides the best value at a price per ounce. One large bottle can last up to six months, so it definitely ends up being worth it in the long term.

Similar Products: You've got options

If Lotion P50 is not for you, other alternatives exist. Alongside the standard Lotion P50 (which the brand recommends for normal to oily skin), there are also three other versions: P50V, which is vitamin-enriched for more mature skin types; P50W, the milder version for sensitive skin; and P50 PIGM 400, which is less acidic and specially targeted to lighten hyperpigmentation.

Additionally, other products have similar formulas to the Lotion P50, including:

• Moon Juice Acid Potion: At $42, Moon Juice's Acid Potion is a slightly more affordable option to Lotion P50. It's formulated with lactic, glycolic, and salicylic acids, which are meant to work together to resurface and balance normal to oily skin.
• Youth to the People Kombucha + 11% AHA Exfoliation Power Toner: Like Lotion P50, this product contains probiotic ingredients like kombucha to strengthen your skin's natural microbiome. At $38, a blend of glycolic and lactic acid promises to deliver gentle exfoliation.

Our Verdict

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is a gem of a product, even if the scent can be off-putting to some. It's hard to dismiss the quick results and noticeably glowing skin that come with just a few weeks of use– not to mention the noticeable difference in skin with the discontinuance of use. If you have super sensitive skin, it may not be the product for you. Still, there are actually several different versions of P50 (P50, P50W, P50 PIGM 400, P50 1970, and P50V) for varying intensities of exfoliation that may better fit your skin's needs. Because of this, it may be beneficial to visit a spa that offers Biologique Recherche services so that an esthetician familiar with the formulas can help find the one that's right for you.