Derms Say Glycolic Acid Is the Ultimate Anti-Aging Exfoliator—Here's Why

Glycolic acid is a tried-and-true beauty staple and has been favored by dermatologists for its exfoliating and anti-aging properties for decades. This ingredient can be found in a variety of products–from creams and chemical peels–or on its own. Its potency also means caution should be taken when using glycolic acid. Those with sensitive skin may experience side effects such as irritation. It is also recommended not to use glycolic acid at the same time as other potent ingredients such as retinol or other AHAs or BHAs.

We spoke to two board-certified dermatologists, Dr. Kenneth Howe and Dr. Kavita Mariwalla, about what to know concerning glycolic acid before incorporating it in your skin care routine. Keep reading for benefits, potential side effects and application tips.

What Is Glycolic Acid?

"Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from sugarcane," says Dr. Howe. It comes in various concentrations and can be applied in a variety of ways. Glycolic acid can be found in over-the-counter formulas, as well as in several leave-on and medical-grade creams. When it comes to chemical peels, Dr. Mariwalla says only a dermatologist should apply it.

Glycolic acid is more gentle than most acids, which makes it a good option for most skin types. It is one of the most potent forms of alpha-hydroxy acids because of it has the smallest molecular weight of any AHA. This means it penetrates the skin more easily, explains Dr. Howe. Glycolic acid is often more effective than other popularly used AHAs like lactic or malic acid, which are more gentle options.

Benefits of Glycolic Acid for Skin

Just like any other acid, this ingredient acts as a chemical exfoliant. However, glycolic acid has other notable benefits.

• It removes dead skin cells and promotes softer, smoother skin. Glycolic acid works by loosening the binding between dead skin cells, allowing them to slough off, says Dr. Mariwalla. The technical term for this process is desquamation.
• It is an effective acne-fighter. Glycolic acid prevents the formation of clogged pores, which are the main factor contributing to acne, says Dr. Howe. It encourages the shedding or peeling of cells on the surface of the skin, as well as cells lining the pores.
• It stimulates collagen production by working deeper within the skin. The effects of glycolic acid aren't limited to the surface of the skin. It also works on its deeper layers—promoting collagen synthesis. It is why glycolic acid is considered a good anti-aging ingredient, says Dr. Howe.

Potential Side Effects

Just like any acid, glycolic acid may cause redness, irritation and peeling—especially for those with sensitive skin. If you have eczema-prone skin or a dehydrated complexion, you may be especially at risk of experiencing such side effects, says Dr. Howe.

How to Use It

• Follow the directions indicated on the product you are using, as products containing glycolic acid can vary. You may use glycolic acid on its own or pair it with other products to curb peeling or irritation such as a moisturizer.
• Prioritize caution when introducing glycolic acid into your skin care regimen. Start using glycolic acid gradually and slowly build up the frequency as your skin adapts to it.
• Apply glycolic acid at nighttime. It is recommended to incorporate it as part of a nighttime routine as it can increase photosensitivity (meaning your skin may be more sensitive to UV rays), adds Dr. Mariwalla.