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    The Memory of Water
    The Memory of Water
    The Memory of Water
    Ebook362 pages5 hours

    The Memory of Water

    By Allen Smutylo

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    8

    Bylot Island: The Northwest Passage, 2000

    Allen Smutylo

    The following year, the pair continues paddling Bylot Island’s dangerous north side – the entrance to the famed Northwest Passage. The discovery of ancient Dorset artifacts, being stalked by a rogue walrus while sea kayaking and being attacked by a polar bear while sleeping, are just some of the highlights in this amazing Arctic expedition.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherWilfrid Laurier University Press
    Release dateJun 19, 2014
    ISBN9781554588770
    The Memory of Water
    Author

    Allen Smutylo

    For the past thirty years Allen Smutylo’s artwork and writing have been based on extensive travelling to some of the most remote areas in the world, including the Canadian High Arctic, Greenland, Antarctica, Patagonia, the Amazon, the Himalaya, and Rajasthan. The paintings and writings from these experiences have garnered a large following and numerous awards both nationally and internationally. www.allensmutylo.com

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      Book preview

      The Memory of Water - Allen Smutylo

      THE MEMORY OF WATER

      THE MEMORY OF WATER

      Photograph by Mike Beedell

      ALLEN SMUTYLO

      Wilfrid Laurier University Press acknowledges the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund for our publishing activities.

      Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

      Smutylo, Allen, 1946–

            The memory of water / Allen Smutylo.

      (Life writing series)

      Issued also in electronic format.

      ISBN 978-1-55458-842-8

            1. Smutylo, Allen, 1946– —Travel. 2. Water and civilization. 3. Animal–water relationships. I. Title. II. Series: Life writing series

      ND249.S624A2 2013        709.2        C2012-907172-2

      ______

      Electronic monograph in multiple formats.

      Issued also in print format.

      ISBN 978-1-55458-876-3 (PDF).—ISBN 978-1-55458-877-0 (EPUB)

            1. Smutylo, Allen, 1946– —Travel. 2. Water and civilization. 3. Animal–water relationships. I. Title. II. Series: Life writing series (Online)

      ND249.S624A2 2013        709.2        C2012-907173-0

      Published by Wilfrid Laurier University Press

      Waterloo, Ontario, Canada

      www.wlupress.wlu.ca

      © 2013 Wilfrid Laurier University Press

      Cover design by: Sandra Friesen. Front cover image: Greenland Passage by Allen Smutylo; oil on canvas, 21″ x 54″, 1991. Back cover image: Northern Coast – Greenland #2 by Allen Smutylo; etching, 12″ x 18″, 1990. Text design by Daiva Villa, Chris Rowat Design.

      Every reasonable effort has been made to acquire permission for copyright material used in this text, and to acknowledge all such indebtedness accurately. Any errors and omissions called to the publisher’s attention will be corrected in future printings.

      No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher or a licence from the Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright licence, visit http://www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777.

      To Paul and Casey

      CONTENTS

      Acknowledgements

      Introduction

      I High Arctic Summer

      II Tobermory, 1970

      III Cape Dorset, 1989

      IV The Sydenham River, 1989

      V East Greenland, 1991

      VI Maui, 1995

      VII Bylot Island: Mike Beedell, 1999

      VIII Bylot Island: The Northwest Passage, 2000

      IX Varanasi, 2010

      X Muskox Way

      Bibliography

      ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

      Bringing these stories and images together in a thoughtful and cohesive book benefited from the caring, the suggestions, and the editing of Catherine Marjoribanks, Lori Ledingham, Hazel and Andre Lyder, Tom Smart, Gayle Fairchild, Stacey Spiegel, Terry Smutylo, and the staff of Wilfrid Laurier Press, particularly acquisitions editor Lisa Quinn. And I am very grateful for the considerable support offered this publication by Peter and Noreen Little and David and Grace Black. Also to the Mira Godard Gallery, Circle Arts, and Thielsen Gallery, for their ongoing and generous help.

      This book covers a good chunk of my adult life. In this matter I feel incredibly fortunate, being able to live a creative life (for lack of a better phrase). Expressing oneself is one thing, but being able to do so as one’s livelihood is something else again. Such a pursuit can happen only with the interest, encouragement, and support of friends, family, and a whole host of other people. Individually acknowledging such a list of people is a bit foolhardy, given the many deserving people who would inadvertently be omitted, considering the time span.

      Nonetheless, added to the names above, I would like to give deep thanks to Sandra Whitehead, Marty Rosen, Sandra and Rob May, Ben Goedhart, Martin Kimble, Peter Oliver, Gale and Jane Jensen, Fab and Virginia Vatri, Dr. George and Dawn Harper, Jim and Fran McArthur, Gilles Couet, Susan Sparks, Ann Smutylo, Gary and Rose McKay, Paul Stott, Dr. Gord and Linda Edwards, David and Leslie Bloom, Steve Lee, Stephen Hogbin, Don Kerr, Eve Baxter, Mike Graney, Mark and Shiva Herman, Bob Turbitt, Mark Kelner, Mike Beedell, Geoff Green, Jean Lemire, Pete and Nora Dean, Michelle Gillette, Giles Ardiel, John Gibson, David L’Heureux, Doug and Diane Heal, Ms. D. Favor, John Francis, Gordon Robinson, David and Marilyn Conklin, Sandra and Andrew Goss, Larry and Sally Luoma, Willy Waterton, Audrey Armstrong, Tom Thomson Art Gallery, Rick and Carol Herman, John and Nancy Deputter, Laurie Adams, Ann and Roly Fenwick, Mary Jane and Winston Young, Dr. Gord and Lindsay Taylor, Tom and Wendy Frisch, Kent and Joni Rathwell, Mike and Brenda Snow, Dr. Gordon and Carol Schacter, Olaf and Mary Catherine Clancy, Dr. David Driman, Ian and Jan Gibson, Dr. Marnie McArthur, Joan and Torben Hawksbridge, John and Sampa Martin, David and Phyllis Lovell, Audrey Cheadle, Edith Galloway, Jim Halliday, Peter Harrison, John and Helen Harrison, Lauriel Moore, John Newton, Dick and Carol Capling, Jacques Thibault, Giles Ardiel, Rob and Mim O’Dowda, Albert and Gloria Smith, Kerry Lackie, Joan McCracknell, Ruth Ann English, Michelle and Jeff Sziklai, Doug and Harriet Grace, Dr. Ewan and Cynthia Porter, Jan and Peter Middleton, Carol and John Rothwell, Ken and Judy Thomson, and Stana and Lachlan Oddie. And also to the scores of other supportive people in Tobermory, Owen Sound, Toronto, Big Bay, London, the Arctic, Maui, Greenland, Ladakh, Delhi, Varanasi, and places in between: please forgive the incompleteness of this list.

      INTRODUCTION

      The seas are the heart’s blood of the earth. Plucked up and kneaded by the sun and moon, the tides are the systole and diastole of its veins.

      — Carl Sandberg

      The stories in this book are autobiographical, and they took place between 1970 and 2010. Some are written from diary entries and notations made at the time or shortly thereafter. Others I wrote from memory. Given the forty-year time span, they are an idiosyncratic mix, with aspects of memoir, storytelling, ethnology, adventure, environmentalism, religion, travel, and art. Underlying all ten stories, sometimes obliquely but more often directly, is the presence of water. After assembling this book it occurred to me that water not only connected the writing and artwork, but, like a diviner’s dowsing rod, seems to have directed much of my life’s course.

      When the Earth was first photographed from outer space it recalibrated my, and probably everyone’s, perceptions of our planet. Floating in vast nothingness, we lived in a home wrapped in water. The images of this little, pale-blue jewel helped prompt the distinguished scientist James Lovelock to theorize that the Earth is a single organism, a concept he termed Gaia. But although water is a life-giving element for this organism, there are times it can easily be mistaken for something else. Persuaded by the wind or urged by fluctuating temperatures, it can be an unsparing plunderer. As a liquid, it regularly inundates riverbanks and invades coastlines. In a solid state, it has bulldozed mountain ranges and ripped open ships’ hulls like tin cans. Held aloft as a gas, it can blacken the sky for hundreds of kilometres before unleashing torrents of raining hell.

      Yet with all its potential to wreak havoc, water remains our chrysalis, life’s common denominator. A connector, a therapist, a facilitator, and a mystery; like outer space, it has secrets that go to the genesis of our evolution and our wonder. Its transparent, born-again molecules carry the memory and the future of life, and its Siren call reminds us that we are still part of the underwater dance.

      I

      HIGH ARCTIC SUMMER

      Is it the fire-Titan Surt himself that plucks at his mighty silver harp, so that the strings shiver and glitter? … Here is the kingdom of the giants, here Surt rules the heavens, and the frost giants rule the earth.

      — Fridtjof Nansen

      Bounding across water and land it comes on fast. Light and colour flee, and the heavens go pallid as if shrouded in the cloak of Dracula. Without the sun, warmth is vanquished. Seawater becomes paralyzed, thickening to a jelly-slush, before turning white and rock hard. Living things must leave, hide, or die. What remains is dark silence. This is winter’s arrival — radical change in truncated time.

      But this cold place that can compress months into days has another side. Its counterbalance is found between the end of one long High Arctic winter and the beginning of the next.

      It’s a brief period, but so alluring and intoxicating that while in its presence winter’s fangs and claws can hardly be imagined. Amid swaying grasses and a colour field of wildflowers, time and change are held in abeyance. The early-morning, mid-afternoon, and late-evening intensities and angles of light that normally announce and define a day’s rhythms are absent. As if entering a dream continuum, time relaxes and stretches out. In the summer, without a setting sun the normal measuring and marking of day ceases. Round and round, the day circles and repeats, skipping like a scratched record on a turntable.

      Maybe in the High Arctic the altering of time is aided by the spin of the earth — much slower near the pole than towards the centre. Or else our basic orientation — the north, east, west, and south quadrants — no longer apply. Every direction is south.

      In the High Arctic, when what was can be difficult to distinguish. One can stumble upon what was abandoned last week, last year, or a thousand years ago. Preserved in its own deep freezer and with little compositional breakdown, a bone, a lead-soldered can, a burin, some charcoal from a stone hearth, a tuft of bloodstained feathers, an ivory amulet, or a shotgun shell can lie side by side. The past and the present can be hard to differentiate.

      As usual, I couldn’t say for sure what hour it was. It might have been nine or closer to midnight. The angle of the sun doesn’t help much in the High Arctic summer; it is always low. Being that it is light all the time, exactly when to get up, eat, and paddle is dictated by things other than the hands of a clock. However, without the darkness of night I found the transition from tired to sleep difficult. As I did most evenings, I went walking.

      The light was warm and evenly spread across an ocean of milky, pale cerulean. Unfiltered, with nothing to absorb it, it was so strong it hurt the eyes. The wind had died and the sea had flattened. That had been a late-day pattern all week. In the stillness, a hundred songs, calls and cries from far and near carried to my ears. Birds were everywhere.

      Far from shore, four pristine icebergs were moving west in slow procession, their deep keels carried by the outward tide and powerful current. The strong rays of the sun accentuated their forms. Their shapes were clean and sculptural. They contained straight, angular faces, and also some ripped surfaces, a characteristic of recent calving. Other places, the icebergs were smooth, with sensuous curves that came from exposure to sun and the wear of water. Like architectural cornices, a few had diagonal striations running across or around their surfaces, mementos of previous waterlines. The size of the icebergs were hard to judge, but measured against the surrounding sea ice they appeared huge.

      Bache Peninsula, Ellesmere Is. Aug. 1, ’98, watercolour, 6.5″ x 9″

      Golden ribbons of ice floes were stretched and laced over the water. The entire mass of pack ice was drifting, but more slowly than the icebergs. Small icebergs and bergy bits were scattered across the sea like confetti on a wedding carpet. Unlike the four imported giants from Greenland, the little pieces, probably no bigger than a house, were made locally.

      Behind me the land’s interior moved steadily upwards to the base of a high bank of rock that climbed farther, almost vertically, before its thrust ended at a pointed, snow-capped pinnacle, the smallest in a long spine of peaks that stretched into and then under a monstrous icefield. The mountain snow and ice cap were bathed in faint hues of peach and lilac.

      One could have camped anywhere along that coast. There were no restrictions, no application forms, no admission fees or posted rules on metal signs. Some flat land to place a tent and running water were all that mattered. And even if an area lacked a nearby river or stream, melting iceberg bits was always a drinking water option.

      But the campsite had lots of fresh water. A series of streams cut through the middle of a field of tundra hummocks. Its source was a melting glacier that clung to the west side of the nearest rise about two kilometres away. The meltwater cascaded down the rock face for perhaps 300 metres before disappearing into the lush ground cover.

      I bent down at one of the tributaries and cupped my hands to drink some water. It overflowed at my lips and trickled down the sides of my neck. Even warmed over a distance of two kilometres, the water was still so cold it hurt. Its taste, however, was remarkable — nourishment frozen in time for hundreds or thousands of years. Some part of me wanted to keep drinking even though my thirst was quenched.

      The stream divided into dozens of braids, meandering all over the mini-watershed. Glacial melt helped feed the wildflowers that were growing everywhere. Occasionally an oversized bumblebee droned above the ground cover like an underpowered motorboat.

      Mountain sorrel lay beside light-pink cushions of moss campion, glowing patches of purple saxifrage, and little pockets of alpine azalea. Mop-headed cotton grass gleamed brilliantly, surrounded by a mix of sedges, rushes, and grasses. Arctic heather’s dark-green leaves shyly hid its tiny white flowers. Tight to the ground, the limbs and foliage of arctic willow and crowberry were inconspicuous but profuse.

      It was a remarkable display considering that it wasn’t supported by rain. The tundra’s few centimetres of active soil draw water from glacial streams but mostly from the permanently frozen ground beneath. In some places the permafrost extended down 600 metres.

      A denser display of flowers was on a rise of flat land above the stream bed and around some low, stone-walled shapes. They were the remains of Palaeo-Eskimo dwellings, several hundred years old. Many of the places along that coast had sites like those.

      Whoever they were, they were sea hunters. Hundreds of bleached and partially fossilized bones of sea mammals were scattered everywhere. Some were unidentifiable, some I knew. Whale vertebrae of various sizes, walrus skulls, heavy whale rib bones, some two and a half metres in length, a few broken pieces of ivory from walrus or narwhal tusks, and hundreds of sharp-toothed jawbones, probably of hooded or bearded seals. There were two enormous bowhead whale skulls as well. They had sunk into the permafrost and were covered in splotches of black and green lichen and moss. They measured a metre and a half across, with blowholes as big as a fist. Other skulls, either wolf or dog, along with a lot of caribou antlers, were there too. They were preserved in an almost perpetually frozen state — the compositional breakdown of bone, antler, and ivory is negligible in the High Arctic — allowing entrance into what was essentially a Palaeo-Eskimo museum.

      Farther back, to the right of the dwellings, there were a number of pillars made from large rocks placed one on top of the other. Most had toppled over. The highest was just over a metre. They could have been boat racks to store skin-covered kayaks, out of reach of their dogs.

      Stone and Bone, watercolour, 10.5″ x 14″, 1999

      Without warning the serenity of the evening was broken by a deafening, whip-cracking sound. It was an iceberg, either splitting up or rolling. I had heard it happen many times before but the sound always startled me. It began like a rifle retort or a thunderclap. It was followed by a ripping or tearing noise that went into a deep rumble, punctuated by more cracking. I felt a slight vibration through the ground. Scanning the ocean with the loud noise continuing, one would have expected to see a massive upheaval of ice and water, but everything looked exactly the same, completely serene.

      Finally, after the racket had ceased, I spotted the location of the disturbance. One of the larger bergs was rebalancing, with rings of waves radiating from its right side. Although it sounded like it was beside me, the iceberg in question was far away. A scattering of ice debris beside the iceberg was all that told of the isolated bit of pandemonium.

      Gradually the evening sky and ocean blended together in a single, golden gradation. The sky, water, and ice became indistinguishable. Thousands of birds of all descriptions, each with its own itinerary, flew through the reflective glare. Some plovers, their feathers skimming the surface, flew west, parallel to the shore. A couple of hundred king eiders were bunched in a floating colony half a kilometre away. Thick-billed murres whistled past, six metres above the water. They seemed to have to beat their wings twice as hard as others to stay airborne. Higher up, some snow geese alternately flapped and glided, moving towards the valley interior. A coal-black raven flew an irregular course, squawking over a two-octave range. A faint reply came from somewhere in the distance. A number of fulmars hung suspended, almost motionless, high overhead.

      On a gravel spit at the far end of the cove, Arctic terns had nested. These are polar migrants. Their flight to Antarctica and back, over 40,000 kilometres yearly, qualifies them as the most travelled species on earth. Glaucous gulls were trying to hit some of their nests, but these tenacious, aerobatic fliers are highly territorial, and an uproar ensued.

      A pair of mergansers, likely nesting nearby, swam quietly along the shore. A guillemot in tuxedo breeding plumage crashed the water and then was out again, some sort of flapping creature in its beak. Two different sizes of sandpipers bobbed up and down on the beach in search of food. Both were similarly mottled brown and light beige. They were right in front of me, but I had missed seeing them until now. The larger one was silent; the smaller one was periodically making a peeping sound. It continued on like that — the cast changed but the performance never stopped. The breeding season is not long, every hour counts. In less than a month they and their young will gather to leave.

      As I closed my eyes the surrounding acoustics became intoxicating. Scores of new, distant calls were audible, and near calls were accentuated. Listening closely I could distinguish the sounds of different feathers winging past, one species from the other. Small waves slid onto the beach and then back again, the sun’s reflection briefly mirrored in their memory. The tide continued to be called out by the moon, leaving the wet shore sand cold and darkened.

      Hundreds of older tracks of feeding birds were imprinted above the high tide mark among the flat shore rocks, their details blurred by the enclosing grains of dry sand. Some very different tracks were there too, set much deeper. These moved with purpose, parallel to the shore. There were two sets and they were massive. Polar bear: mother and cub. I knew the cub trailed the mother because occasionally the smaller track was imprinted inside the larger. They were going west. Perhaps the mother had picked up the scent of food, or the unmistakable odour of a large male, causing her to move to safety. Or maybe she was just following some internal directive, obeyed without question. The age of the tracks was difficult to assess in the semi-dry sand. They were probably not new, but my quickening pulse betrayed the fact that I wasn’t sure.

      Higher up on the beach, deposited by a storm or very high tide, lay long, twisted strands of parched seaweed, kelp, pieces of driftwood, and other debris. A heavy piece of weathered driftwood caught my eye. It was notched at one end, like a tuning fork, with a large hole bored through the middle and two more holes down the side that were not drilled through. It lay along one of the waterlines farthest from the shore, surrounded by arctic willow and low sedge grass. It had been there for quite a while. A squared iron spike was easily released from the driest part of the timber. It appeared to be hand forged and was heavier than it looked. It was eroded with deep pockmarks, and its sienna colouring was spotted with metallic purple and cobalt blue. Where it was almost eaten through, the iron changed to a bright powdered orange.

      The wood was oak. Apart from its greyed, weathered surface, the integrity of the wood was uncompromised. Its presence, lying on a beach, would have been unremarkable anywhere else, but in the High Arctic, wood, particularly hardwood, is alien and historically coveted. What it was, where it came from, or how it had got there, I couldn’t tell. It could have been part of a dock, ripped away by a storm or sea ice along the north Norwegian coast and carried by ocean currents. Or a piece off a New Bedford whaler that had floundered on a submerged shoal, perhaps weighed low by its brimming hold of bowhead blubber. Or perhaps it was English oak, cut from the King’s forest, a ship of the Royal Navy, commissioned to find and chart a shorter route to the Orient. If so, it was from one of many square-riggers that had departed to the sound of twenty-one-gun salutes and naval brass bands, only to end up strewn in pieces across the waterlines of the polar frontier.

      Mankind’s self-importance is seen everywhere on this planet, but apart from a few artifact scatterings, it was not evident here, not then. Clear evidence of our being was surely there somewhere: high up in the ozone, in an analysis of the air, ice, soil, and water. But my view of the land and the ocean that evening was empty of people or anything of our constructs, as it would have been for millennia. What if all the Earth were like that, without people anywhere? Apart from our own kind, I had a hard time imagining that anything out there would miss us.

      Fading Away, etching and chine collé, 18″ x 24″, 1998

      My thoughts were pulled back to the moment. My ear suddenly picked up something. Not particularly loud, but quite unmistakable. A brief, deep, cavernous huffing sound, which rapidly trailed off. It was repeated once, twice, four, maybe seven or eight times, then nothing. I lifted my binoculars. It could have been whales … maybe walrus. I scanned the expanse of ocean and ice but it was so vast, their location was impossible to determine. The light was too bright; it hurt my eyes. I exchanged the binoculars for sunglasses.

      Then I saw, without hearing the sound: two oblong, vaporous circles slowly floated above the water like hovering spaceships. Haloed by the backlighting of the sun, their breath glowed against the evening light. They were closer to shore than I’d thought. Then, right behind them, another puff, and another, three, four more … five more orbs suspended momentarily in space.

      And the sound: the first two, huhhaaaa … hhhaaa … and then the rest. They were whales, but I couldn’t tell what kind. In the energy of bouncing light, shape and space were altered. I fought the glare, catching only momentary glimpses of them. The sounds of their breathing were perfectly clear, as though they were right next to me, but their physical forms remained obscured and distorted. They surfaced once more to breathe, fluked up, and dove deep. Moving east, their identity stayed unknown.

      High Arctic Passage, etching, 7″ x 14″, 1992

      A bank of low-hanging clouds blocked the sun’s rays, reminding me where I was. With the plummeting wave of cold air I turned and headed back. The sandpipers continued bobbing along the shoreline, feeding on the little crustaceans snuggled in their homes of wet sand just below the surface. Trusting in the gravitational rhythm of earth and moon, they burrowed tiny air-pocket lodgings before each high tide.

      High overhead the sun’s rays highlighted a slowly expanding jet stream that chased a barely visible metallic dot. To the south its trail disappeared, bleeding into wisps of delicate horsetails. North American–Asian routes now regularly cross the Arctic. They say it saves almost an hour.

      Within a few weeks the northern earth would lean back on its axis and once again the huge star would begin its death spiral. Almost everything that swims, walks, or flies would gather, often in vast numbers, to follow it south. Round and around, hour by hour, day by day, inexorably, the shadows would spread. It’s then the ice giants awaken to rule the land, and the silent aurora commences its long, lonely dance.

      II

      TOBERMORY, 1970

      … those grand fresh-water seas of ours — Erie, and Ontario, and Huron, and Superior, and Michigan — possess an ocean-like expansiveness … They are swept by Borean and dismasting blasts as direful as any that lash the salted wave; they know what shipwrecks are, for out of sight of land, however inland, they have drowned full many a midnight ship with all its shrieking crew.

      — Herman Melville, Moby Dick

      The middle portion of my career as an artist was focused exclusively on the Arctic. During a fifteen-year period I made over twenty backpacking and sea kayaking expeditions there and with the energy of relative youth, eagerly explored and depicted a wide array of Arctic themes from Alaska to East Greenland. How this particular passion came to manifest itself in me can be better understood when seen through the influences of another place, in an earlier time.

      The years I spent at art college in Toronto coincided with a time that the American writer Hunter S. Thompson called an era of extreme reality. My mind wasn’t in the self-confessed, self-induced wasteland of Thompson’s, nonetheless the phrase seemed to fit my life back then.

      My world evolved around tranquil, skylit studios, where I tried to tame unruly carbon pencils and coax interesting images out of copper plates, hydrochloric acid, etching inks, and a roller-bed press. At the same time, out on the streets and on the TV screens, in black and white, a cauldron of discontent was roiling. The news and its daily images portrayed a society feeding on itself: anti-war, pro-war, anarchists, idealists, traditionalists, separatists, Black Power and the power of love, raging mobs, burning draft cards, freeloading demagogues and leather-jacketed outlaws, Molotov cocktail throwers, napalm droppers and tear gas lobbers — a circus of rambling chaos. What had just happened could hardly be assimilated before the next series of events unfolded. We watched our heroes — songwriters, politicians, student advocates, agitators, philosophers, poet gurus and pseudo-revolutionaries — weird or otherwise, rise and then inevitably fall. The media showed us cities

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