A Bridge Too Far

Tools & Materials

Rare Earth Magnets
GF9 Static Grass: Green
GF9 Clump Foliage: Summer
GF9 Fine Basing Grit
Black Spray undercoat
Textured Spray paint
0.08 (2mm) thick cardboard
5x 4,(152 x122cm) 3mm thick
hardboard sheet
5x 4,(152 x122cm) 2(40mm) thick
insulation foam
2x 2 (2mm) thick hardboard sheet
1x 1 (26 x26mm) Pine box strips
2x 1 (40 x26mm) pine boards
PVA glue
Liquid Nails (4 tubes)
Retractable hobby knife
Hack saw or Jig saw
Electric/cordless Drill
Counter sinking tool or drill piece
2and 3 screws
Polyflla
SP Marker
Tape Measure
Metal Ruler
Plastic card
Stone Wall plastic card
BUILDING AN ARNHEM BATTLEFIELD By Kyran Henry
The bridge at Arnhem has been the source of numerous miniature wargames battlefelds in
multiple scales. I remember witnessing a huge 20 foot long Market Garden table in 28mm at a
gaming convention many years ago and being forever hooked on the desperate stand made by
the Colonel Frosts British paratroopers inside the Arnhem perimeter.
When Mike Haught began work on A Bridge Too Far he had plan ned from the beginning to
create a set of storyline scenarios that covered the desperate action of Colonel Frost and his
men inside the British perimeter around Arnhem bridge.
So, armed with diagrams aerial photos and military maps project Arnhem began!
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The Plan
Before starting any project of this size
its worth spending some time sketching
out a plan and preparing your materials
list. Mike and I reviewed a few different
sketches before settling on one that
made for swift construction without
compromising game play.
Building the board
After some deliberation we decided to
make the board a 5 x 4 (152 x 122cm)
piece to allow for troop deployment and
extra manoeuvring during the game.
Starting with the 5x 4 0.12 (3mm)
hardboard sheet we attached 2 (40mm)
foam with liquid nails to the rough side
of the board. Liquid nails is great for a
quick and strong bond between foam and
wood.
Tip: Make sure you smooth the liquid
nails out when applying it as it generates
a mild amount of heat when curing and
if left in a large lump it could partially
melt the underside of the foam that you
are using.
About two hours after applying the liquid
nails, I reinforced the board with a frame
on its underside. This adds structural
integrity to the board without adding a
huge amount of weight. I have described
this process at the end of this article.
Reinforcing is not necessary but will
defnitely increase the life expectancy
of your gaming board. If you intend to
reinforce you should do so now.
Roads and embankment
Working from what we had sketched out
at the start of the project I cut up two
of the 0.08 (2mm) card sheets into the
required roads sections based upon my
plan measurements and glued them onto
the board with PVA glue allowing 24
hours to fully dry.
Cut and shape your embankment prior to
gluing it to the board. You will fnd that
it is easier to cut and apply your stone
textured plastic card to the front of the
embankment at this point as well. Mark
out your road and cut in the base of your
building as per the design sketch. Once
prepared attach the fnished hill to the
table using PVA glue.
Using a small amount of putty clean up
the join with the road and any rough
areas on your hill side.
Tip: I used PVA to glue the card down as
it attaches smoothly rather then running
the risk of an uneven surface that the
Liquid Nails could cause.
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A Bridge Too Far

During the two days of drying time, I
could begin work on the bridge sections.
At this point we had to make our largest
historical deviation as the bridge to
correct scale would have been over 10
inches wide and would take up far too
much of the boards play able area. So we
went with a slightly scaled down bridge
for easier play.
Sections and Magnets
I decided to build the road in
removable sections to make storage and
transportation easier. After looking at the
scenarios in A Bridge Too Far it became
evident that adding an extra piece that
jutted off the board would be helpful
in the Graebner scenario so I cut three
sections 2 long x 7.5 inches wide.
The frame for each of the pillars was
made using 1x 1 pine strips cut and
glued together with Liquid Nails (you
should be able to get the strips from any
DIY store.) Using the measurements
shown above, I cut and prepared two
support pillars. One for the centre of
the frst bridge section and one for the
extended bridge section.
The join support between the standard
section and the extended section was very
important. After fddling with a standard
sized pillar, it became obvious that I
needed to double the width so I cut the
same 3 and 5.5 lengths but from a 2
by 1 strip of timber.
Next step was attaching the road section
to the embankment. I elected to do this
with Liquid Nails that I had spread
very thinly. After this had dried, I used
Polyflla fller to ensure it smoothly
blended into the embankment.
I encountered problems with getting the
extended section to stay where I wanted it
to. The peanut gallery suggested drilling
in magnet holes and then using rare
earths to hold it together. This turned out
to be a godsend and meant that the table
could happily survive a good jolt without
the bridge falling over. I pre-measured
all the magnet holes prior to drilling and
then after checking polarisation glued the
magnets in using super glue.
I wanted a stone effect on the pillar
supports so I used a textured spray paint
to give the pillar the correct feel (you can
get these from any good DIY store). After
a couple of liberal coats, the pieces were
ready for undercoating.
The fnal stage was attaching the 2 and
1 support pillars to the centre bridge
section and the 1 support to the extended
bridge section.
Plastic Card
It was now time to make things look
pretty. One of the bonuses of using 2mm
thick hardboard is that you can get I
beam plastic strips that have a 2mm gap
so they ft perfectly onto the edges of the
bridge. This gives a nice industrial fnish
to the bridge.
I also cut some thin plastic strips to glue
along the edges of the road section on the
embankment to create a curb.
I used an old HO scale model pedestrian
bridge to make the two staircases. Using
some plastic box sections I was able
to create the support pillars for both
staircases. The staircases are quite plain
but defnitely serviceable for gaming
requirements
Clump Foliage: Summer
Rare Earth Magnets Static Grass: Green
Fine Basing Grit
Sand and Flock
Sanding and focking your table correctly
is one of the key aspects of making your
table durable.
This is quite an easy six step process.
STEP ONE: Using PVA glue, attach fne
basing grit to the open white sections of
the board. You will want to have your
glue quite thick for this process and you
will want to allow 24 hours drying time.
STEP TWO: Shake of the excess sand onto
some newspaper to recover what you can.
Paint a watered down coat of PVA over
the top of the sand. This will seal the sand
onto the board and increase the boards
durability. Again, leave 12 to 24 hours for
it to dry.
STEP THREE: Undercoat the entire board.
You can paint on the undercoat but, to
save time, I used fat black spray paint
undercoat and sprayed the whole board.
STEP FOUR: Paint and dry brush your fne
grit and roads. For this process I took a
bottle of Vallejo German Camo Brown
(826) and a bottle of Vallejo Desert
Yellow (977) to a paint store and had
them match the colours in an Acrylic
paint. I then base coated all of the grit
German Camo Brown and after it dried
I used a soft bristle brush to drybrush on
a coat of Vallejo Desert Yellow. For the
roads I used Vallejo German Grey (995).
I painted a solid colour frst using a size
8 fat brush and then added a one drop of
Vallejo London Grey (836) to three drops
of German Grey and watered the paint
down to apply the top coat. I painted the
top coat using broad strokes down the
lengths of the road. As it dried it resulted
in a well-travelled looking road texture.
STEP FIVE: Use a liberal coat of PVA glue
to attach the static grass to all the grit
sections of the board (this is referred to as
focking), leaving two small sections to
represent the road on the hill to the house.
STEP SIX: Use Clump foliage to cover any
irregularities that your construction may
have caused. On my board I had two of
these one around the house on the hill
where I had cut in the lower storey of the
house and one at the edge of the stone
work where I had cut incorrectly. Repairs
and tidy ups of this nature will often
occur and with a bit of thought they end
up looking like you had planned it.
Buildings, Walls and Trees
Fortunately when I started this project
we had just received a set of sample
15mm buildings from Gale Force 9 for
Battlefronts upcoming European Village
set. These buildings come in a multitude
of different styles and textures including
a corner store building and were perfect
for my Frosts perimeter board.
Included in these samples were various
village wall sections which helped fesh
out the green building areas of the table
as well as offering excellent cover to
troops during the scenario.
The buildings and walls come out of
the box pre-painted and each level of
the buildings is removable so they are
excellent for this type of project.
I decided to repaint some of the wall
sections in a sandstone colour scheme to
create some variation on the table.
Arhnem had quite a large number of trees
and parks throughout the city centre, so
we based up some Woodland Scenics
trees on washers, focked the bases using
the same techniques as I used on the
board and then placed them as per the
scenario map.
The Bridge
The Bridge piece wasnt really necessary
to the table project however when I
mentioned what I was working on
to Jason Buyaki at Gale Force 9 he
offered to make me a bridge section
out of hardboard and Plastic card. Due
to the layout of the table I only needed
the beginning of the arch and the edge
supports which Jason was nice enough
to make for me. I painted them by
undercoating all the pieces with spray
black primer and then painting the
sections with Vallejo Gunmetal Grey
(863).
Jasons bridge structure.
Attach card around the edge using
Liquid Nails.
Reinforcing Your Table
Building a durable gaming board is very
important for any table and is actually
far easier then most people realise. Even
preexisting game boards that you have at
home can be framed out and given a new
lease on life.
This technique for framing is designed
to be lightweight and durable without
costing you a fortune. It also allows you
to store your boards upright as the frame
will prevent warping.
Starting with 2 x 1 pine boards, cut the
lengths that you require for your board
edge and central brace. The bigger your
board, the more central braces you will
need as a rule I have a central brace for
each two foot section of board.
Once you have all your brace boards cut,
place them into position on the board and
drill or counter sink your screw holes.
Once I had all these marked out I used
Liquid Nails to attach the board as well
as running 1.5 screws into the drilled
holes. Try to get your framing boards
as fush with the base board of your
table as possible. Leave the board to dry
overnight.
It is worth noting that you should insert
your screws by working down the length
of the board (do not do one end then
the other with the middle screw last).
Attaching the screws in line will help
to pull your board out fat and prevent
warping. This is very important when
framing out an older board that you have
had for a while as it will have already
begun to warp in one direction or another.
The Table Edge
To get a nice edge on the table, cut out
strips of 2mm thick card to the correct
size and attach them using liquid nails. A
long piece of pine and clamps will help
to secure the card to the side of the board
alternatively you can brace each side with
boards and heavy weights to hold them
in place. You will need to allow about six
hours drying time for all four sides as you
want these to be very secure.
After they have dried, use black cloth
tape to wind around the board thus
making the corners strong and giving a
nice solid fnish.
The Finished table
After all the construction it was time
to set up the table for the scenarios.
Following the scenario layout from
A Bridge Too Far I deployed all the
houses and terrain and we were ready
to start playing scenario one.
Use Liquid Nails and screws to
secure your frame.
Use cloth tape for a solid fnish.
2 x 4 (61x122cm) framed board section.