Coating Introduction Coating is one method to repair concrete.

But this method is basically limited to repair concrete on concrete surfaces only problematic where there are small cracks or damage to a minimum. In addition this method will not only focus for concrete repair, but as one method of prevention of damage to the concrete. So the purpose and ability to repair and to prevent such a situation then it is a thick liquid. It can be applied directly onto the concrete surface cracks to protect and enhance the nature of nature nil in normal concrete. Its function is to close the cracked concrete surfaces as well as adding strength to the concrete structure. There are several types of materials used as a. Epoxy - resin b. Silicon. When the material is used in part will be absorbed into the concrete and the rest will form a thin layer on the surface of the concrete. Coating can be attached to the concrete surface by means of concrete ties and absorption by the reaction on the surface. Coating can provide temporary or permanent protection. Repair method that uses silicon can sometimes survive at a certain time frame and repaired again when they fall due. Coating can also provide adequate protection to the concrete that are exposed to contamination, discoloration, bees nest and protecting layer of small cracks. It works to prevent seepage of water or chemicals, and sometimes only temporary. How this method works is by means of a thin cover on the surface cracks. During the application process, the material will be partially applied to seep into the cracks and some holes to form a thin layer on the surface of the concrete.

Epoxy

Epoxy

Grind out the crack to create a backward-angled cut, using a crack chaser.

Clean loose material from the crack.

Apply a Epoxy based resin into the entire repair area using a double barrel calking gun. The Epoxy resin helps keep the repaired material from loosening or popping out of the crack.

Mix a concrete compound, and trowel it into the crack based on the concrete coating being applied. "Feather" the repair with a grinder, so it is even with the surrounding surface.

Grind out the crack and clean loose material from the crack as listed above. Then pour sand into the crack within the surface. Prepare sandmix

concrete, adding a concrete fortifier, then trowel the mixture into the crack. Feather until even with the surrounding surface using a trowel.

This product is suitable for use inside and outside of place. It cures to a granite-hard finish and chemical-resistant and anti-slip. Furthermore priming is not normally required. At the same time it impervious and non-dusting just may be feather-edged. Cures in 3-6 hours at ambient temperatures, ready for heavy traffic in 8-12 hours Besides, epoxy is a versatile, trowel applied, three components Epoxy resin based and deep section screed/mortar. The product is supplied in a natural' colour, but may be sealed or topped with any of the range of Epoxy coatings or screeds as required. Typical application thicknesses are 10mm - 50mm. Epoxy is typical uses at deep section protective screed for floor areas subject to impact abrasion and chemical spillage. Epoxy also as an economical, fast curing infill screed/mortar prior to application of the final floor finish and as a thick section Epoxy bedding mortar for kerbs etc. Surface preparation is surfaces to be treated must be clean, dry and free of friable material, a wire brush or sweep is usually sufficient. Mixing is with each bucket contains Concrex powder and bottles of hardener. Mix the two components with a trowel until you achieve a uniform grey colour, you can complete the mixing by using your gloved hands. For large quantities, it is advisable to use a mixer. Application is by apply the mortar to the surface to be repaired and smooth with a trowel. To prevent streaks, wipe the blade with a rag soaked in white spirit. Advantages by using this product is it is ease of application, fast curing characteristics, economical, hard wearing and durable, taint free, frost resistant and impervious to water and negligible shrinkage even in thick section.

Method Statement The work is cleaning the cracks. Material will be applied to the fractured parts of the brush. To a mixture of epoxy the crack surface to be cleaned with thinner before the sweep done. Materials sweep left to dry and harden before they can be painted to beautify the surface. Epoxy grout has distinct advantages for those concerned with keeping grout in pristine condition. For other homeowners, the drawbacks may be too great to justify the additional cost and difficulty of using this material.

Advantages Anyone who has spent time with a toothbrush cleaning and bleaching grout around ceramic tiles will be sensitive to the advantages of a grout that seldom stains. However, there are several other material properties that make epoxy a good choice for tiled areas. Stain Resistant: It is incredibly difficult to stain epoxyt. Only certain chemicals and stains can permanently alter the colour of epoxy. For this reason, tiled areas that are often exposed to grease or acidic substances, such as kitchen countertops, should use epoxy. Water Resistant: Unlike other grouts, water has little effect on epoxy. This is an incredible advantage after the grout has been installed. Longer shelf life: While most grouts cannot be stored for more than two years, epoxy can be stored for an almost limitless time as long as it does not freeze and is kept in an airtight container. No Sealant Required: Traditional grouts should be sealed every two to three years. Epoxy needs no additional sealants. Mildew Resistant: Epoxy is already somewhat resistant to mildew, a property that can be enhanced when an additive is mixed in with the grout before application.

Disadvantages With the advantages that epoxy offers, the homeowner may be surprised that this material still remains an oddity in many areas. However, a few considerable drawbacks make many contractors reluctant to use this product. Quick Setting: Epoxy is difficult to use because of its quick setting time. Many contractors refuse to use epoxy grout, instead they use a common grout mixed with additives and heavily seal it. Expensive: Epoxy can easily be four times more expensive than other types of grout, even when the cost of sealants and other additives is taken into account. Discoloration: Epoxy can cause serious discoloration on porous surfaces, so the tiles must be sealed before the grout is applied. This is particularly important when stone is being used.

Silicone Silicone are inorganic-organic polymers with the chemical formula [R2SiO]n, where R = organic groups such as methyl, ethyl, and phenyl. As concrete sealers they may be touted as a penetrating sealer, and they do soak in somewhat, but they are more readily understood as coating based concrete sealers. As a rule silicone have great hydrophobic (water repellent) and oilophobic (oil repellent) properties. Sounds like a great concrete sealer right? Well, usually the answer is "no." Many companies using silicones will demo the product at a home show and the silicone's hydrophobic and oilophobic reactions wow the homeowners. But unfortunately what goes unseen is the LENGTH of life. As a rule, silicones are very short lived. They are UV unstable, and because they are more surfaces based they do not hold up well to abrasion. What this means is you should only consider silicones for vary specific uses.

If you have a vertical surface that may be prone to graffiti, a constant maintenance of silicone can help make clean up a lot easier. Keep in mind, a removal of graffiti will require a reapplication of the sacrificial silicone sealer immediately upon clean up to maintain protection. You should also consider reapplication of a silicone concrete sealer every one to three years to maintain protective barriers. Horizontal surfaces will likely only last a few months, and less when exposed to UV radiation. Silicone sealant is suitable for sealing joints in concrete, cinder block, brick, stucco, stone and mortar. It helps prevent damage caused by ice & water. It provides a long lasting seal, excellent adhesion and flexibility. Can use for interior or exterior and great for sealing joints and cracks. Recommended uses and ideal for repairing cracks in any concrete surface, such as basement floors, garage floors, driveways, sidewalks, steps, thresholds, carports, walls, fencing , windows, expansion joints in concrete and patios. But it can not be painted over. Not suitable for use in below waterline applications. Do not use in below ground applications. Not for use on polyethylene, polypropylene or Teflon. This product suitable for bricks and mortar, ceramics and porcelain, concrete, fibre cement, marble and stone, metal, wood, many plastics including polystyrene. Method Statement Throughly clean and dry surface from oil, dirt and grease with Mineral Turpentine firstly and then Methylated Spirits. Allow to dry completely before applying silicone. If there old silicone which needs to be removed, we recommend using SILICONE REMOVER, this ingenous product makes removing old silicone easy. We also recommend sanding the surface back with a good quality sanding block, such as a Sanding Block Medium/Course grain, as the silicone will adhere more readily to a scratched up surface. Ensure you tape both sides of the gap before applying the product. This ensures a neat finish and makes it easier to clean up.

Cut the seal at the top of the cartridge and cut the nozzle at a 45 angle, to the size of the gap opening. Fit the nozzle to the top of the cartridge. Insert the cartridge into a caulking gun such as caulking gun. As its new innovative pressure release design reduces the mess which results from run on and stress on your hands, which is critical if you are doing a lot of sealing. Hold the caulking gun at a 45 angle. Press the nozzle opening against the joint, apply steady pressure to the caulking gun and extrude the silicone sealant forcing the sealant into the gap and move in a pushing motion, along the joint in one smooth action. For a smooth finish, smooth with a finger dipped in mineral turpetine or for a professional finish use a paint scraper. Excess sealant must be cleaned up before the sealant skins in 5-10 minutes. Wipe excess away with a cloth dampened in mineral turpetine. Remove tape before the sealant skins. Clean tools immediately in mineral turpetine. Avoid smearing on surrounding surfaces, see handy tip. Sealant will cure fully in 72 hours. As this point any unwanted sealant can be removed by trimming with a sharp blade, but avoid under cutting the seal. Ensure you tape both sides of the gap before applying the product. This ensures a neat finish and makes it easier to clean up. When first applying product, extrude a small amount onto a piece of scrap material to ensure a smooth continuous flow of silicone sealant. Remove the tape before the silicone sealant skins. For a better finish complete painting prior to use of the sealant as it can not be painted over.For a better finish use a spatula dipped in mineral turpetine or detergent and water to tool off the sealant. Work in sections that can be completed before sealant skins. Tooling off and tape removal must be completed before skinning occurs or a rough surface may result, so working in sections allows for a better finish. Keep a pack handy to wipe up any spills and for cleaning any material off the skin before it cures. They are an easy and effective way to keep clean on the job.

Safety tips Uncured product may irritate eyes. If in eyes, flood the eyes for at least 15 minutes and seek medical advice. Avoid contact with skin, if contact occurs, wipe off immediately and wash with detergent. It may irritate sensitive skin. Avoid breathing in vapours. Ensure you use a well ventilated area as product releases methyl ethyl ketoxime while curing. Keep away from children. Storage and re-use it. Store in cool dry conditions and below 30C. The sealant should be used within 6 months after opening. After use keep the nozzle on the cartridge. Silicone is a reactive product and is designed to cure once exposed to humidity. While the product may be stored for a few months once opened, it does have a limited shelf life. Storage in an upright position in a cool dry place is recommended to maximise the storage life. If the sealant is going to be used again within a few days, leave the nozzle on and merely extrude approximately 2 cm of product before storing the cartridge upright. This will cure to a plug which can easily be pulled out when required. For longer storage periods, leave the nozzle on and place a piece of plasticine over the end of the nozzle. Tightly tape a piece of aluminium foil over the whole nozzle to exclude any air. When you want to re-use the product, simply take off the foil and plug from the old nozzle pull out the excess silicone from the nozzle with a corkscrew, then re-pierce any cure at the tip of the cartridge and re-use. If cure has taken place into the cartridge, the product is unlikely to be in a useable state and should be discarded.

Conclusion This method is usually done to repair the surface in terms of aesthetics alone. The latter method is suitable for small cracks that are not harmful to the structure. Fracture of the capillary in which the crack occurs on the surface, according to this method. References 1. www.mightyseal.com 2. www.ealgreen.com 3. http://www.ides.com 4. http://x1974.hubpages.com/hub/Concrete-Foundation-Crack-Repair 5. http://www.watco.co.uk 6. http://www.epoxyproducts.com