$4.95 u.s.

Please display until Jan. 4

-
. ,
' Personalized
, . .
j" ,,\ notepad
"
'1
1
':-..' --:.
..
1,,\,hine e-checkers
-i,' \" game board
'" .
=2' -
Four-drawer shelf
-:-
:rail mirror
, , ,
"
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NAME I
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Here's What Woodmaster Owners Say:
Shop Test Results-lt does an excellent job of planing,
on a par with more expensive machines, and even better
than some oommercial models."
Ediror. Workbench Magazine
Best Value-"After checking them all, Woodmaster was
obviously the best deal for the money. Also, I would like to
acknowledge the polite and prompt service."
E. D. Holtz, North Carolb'a
Celebrating our first five years
It seems like only a few months ago that I was (Xlunding out how-
to instructions for the first issue of Weekend Woodworking
ProjectsolJ. And.now...we've just put the finishing touches on a five-
year index. Where did the time go?
Our research staff recently tabulated an annual reader survey that
confirms our original premise: There's a devoted audience of wood-
workers out there who hunger for great projects that require only
a few hours' time to complete. (For you statisticians, your median
project-completion time equals 8.6 hours.) We try to remain true
to the mix of projects you request-a sprinkle of simple furniture
items, a healthy seasoning of useful gifts and accessories, and a
dash of toys for good measure. Voila! A magazine readers await.
Thanks for your loyalty. You can count on us to continue pub-
lishing original, doable designs.
OUR PuDGE 10You
Prior to publication. we build evel)' project featured in Wedtnd Woodworking 1'rQjts
Slep-by-filep in OIlr shop. Then, a =ned learn of edilors reviews llle howIO
directions, \Cdlnicai drawings, illustralions, and Bill of Materials of each pro;ea to make
sure the instructions we provide to you arc dear, concise, and complele.
Tho 11'_""""-*'""I SlaW
lNEo- IE!
Wu/mId Wood_rldn, PrrJfrch edilorial mailing address:
Wetkend Woodworking Profrcts, 111/2 Grand Ave., Des Moines, lA .503(l'}-3379.
For a change ofaddress, il is besl for you to o;mtael your local Poslmaster, who
then will notify us. For any othersubscriplion sctvice, please wrile:
Wetktnd Woodworking ProjIs
Cuslomer Service, P.O. Box 55364.
Boulder, CO 80322-5364.
Enclose a rc<:enllabel from your magazine for beller service.
Or, you may phone toUfree 8lXVJ74-3669.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS (lSSN 1042-8094; Canadian GST Rug. 'Rt234821l67) irI
p.dshed tm:nl"Iy;'.Ihay. Merm, May.liy, S!!pIembIl<.1rd NcMombor by Memdlh Caporali:ln,
17161.D1;usl S1reet Del Moi'oes. LA. 50309-0023. 8eoood<:lass postage paid at Del Molnes. Iowa.
and addilb:1al ollic:e&. SUBSCRlP1lON PRICES; One $27,97 ;, lite Unlted Slales and lis pos.
sessions. GaoadIIIrd other lXU'IlriIIs add $6 PIIf)'8lll". POS1MASTER; Send adr*'8!Is changes 10:
WEEKEND WOOOWOSlKIOO PROJECTS. P.O. Box 55364. 8<dlDr, CO l!O322-5364, lXPiRIGHT
MEPEDrTH CORPORATION, 1992. ALl. RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN U.S.A.
Five years after
our IIrst issue, we've
stood the test of time.
Joanne Lockwood, who designed three of the money clips featured
in Issue 28, called a few weeks ago to ask why we didn't follow her
guidelines for bevel-cutting the flying eagle, trout, and dog. I ex-
plained that we had tried to simplify the scrollsaw instruction.
"When you bevel-cut two stacked pieces of wood, the finishcd in-
lay looks so much better. Just tilt your scrollsaw table 611.l: to the
left and saw in a counterclockwise direction. It's that easy."
And you know, she's right. We should have suggested it.
WEEKEND
WOODWORKING
Editor in Chief Larry Clayton
Managing Editor Carl Voss
Editor Charles E. Sommers
Projects Design Editor James R. Downing
Sr. Graphic Designer Michael G. Harrington
Administrative Assistant Louise Anderson
President and CEO Jack D. Rehm
Magazine Group President William T. KelT
SVP, Publishing Director Adolph Auerbacher
Publisher William R. Reed
Advertising Director Chris W. Schmft
Circulation Director Dean Pieters
Circulation Manager AJan Brush
Business Manager Terry Unsworth
Production Director Robert C. Furstenau
Senior Product Manager Marjorie L. Williams
,\11.\
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs JANUARY 1993 3
10
NOTEWORTHY NOTEPAD
Add a personal touch to the office
scene with this desk accessory. II's
sized to fit 3M's popular 3><)''' Post-
it Notes. To get you started in the
right direction, we include patterns
for a complete alphabet.
WEEKEND
WOODWORKING
JAN. 1993 VOL 6 NO.1 ISSUE 31
14
PEACOCK ON PARADE
Brighten a festive table setting or
mantel with this simple scrol1saw
and drill-press project you can make
from a 4x7xll" piece of stock.
4 WEEKEND WooDWORKlI'lG PROJECT'S JANUARY 1993

6
DRAWER DECOR
This space-saving wall unit-
f\1s1 6>< 16x36"'-features four
ersatile drawers, three Shaker
, and a great shelf for even
more collictibles.
,
,
I

22
CHINESE CHECKERS,
ANYONE?
With the help of our step-and-
repeat jig and a full-sized
pattern, you can accurately drill
this family-favorite board game.
And 10 make sure you don't
lose your marbles (so to speak),
we've designed fun-la-buiJd
holders that you can display
a1cng with the board.
16
ClASSIC
COUNTRY CABINET
Here's a three-shelf plate cabi
net that will add stature to
any dining room. Or, use this
wall unit to showcase a
favorite collection.
20
MIRROR, MIRROR
ON THE WALL
Who's the skinniest of them all?
When it comes to mirror frames,
this slender S4
H
-wide project filts
the bill for a narrow wall space.
~ ~ - _.,..
- - - - ...,.,
~ -- ~
~
- - - - - - - - : ; ; ~ . ~ : : ; t

&..I - _'":.._-:.- _- -
. -- - - ---
\ ~ ..
-
Drawer Decor
Vou'II find countless uses for
1. this country-style accessory. In
the bath, load up the shelf with
grooming necessities, and then tuck
the overflow into one of the four
drawers. Or, station this project at
the back door, where it will become
a natural dropping-off place for
jackets and the family's gloves.
LET's START BY SHAPING THE
BACK AND SIDES
1
From stock, cut three pieces to
51;2x35" for the back (A). (We chose oak.)
Study the Cutting diagramopposite to see
howwe laid out OUf materials. From the
same stock, cut two 6x11" pieces for
the sides (B), and put them aside
temporarily. Glue-join the three back
pieces, and clamp until the glue
dries. Then, remove the clamps,
scrape off any glue squeeze-Qut, and
trim the panel to 34W long. Scribe
horizontal and vertical cenlerlines on
the panel's face.
2
Make a full-sized half pattern using the
gridded Back pattern onpage 9. To make full-
sized working patterns from a gridded pattern,
first tape together sheets of paper to make an
18" square. With a pencil and rule, starl in one
corner and scribe 1" squares across the paper.
Next, using the gridded pattern as a guide, plot
the points on the]" grid lines where the pattern
lines cross the corresponding grid lines. Then,
connect those points to complete the pattern.
(We used french curves to draw the curved lines.)
Mark the hole centerpoints on your pattern
where indicated.
Note: Ifyou'd prefer to work with afull-sized pat-
tern ofthe back, see our pattern offer on page 9.
3
Place the half pattern on the left
portion of the back panel, and
align the centerlines. Tape the pattern
to hold it in place. Next, using carbon
paper or transfer paper, trace the out
line onto the back. Mark the holecen-
terpoints with an awl. Now, flip the
pauem over, placing it on the right half.
Align all of the centerlines, trace the outline, and
mark the hole centerpoints.
4
Sawthe back to shape. (We used ajigsawand
cut just wide of the line.) Sand the cui edges
to the tine. (We chucked a sanding drum into
our drill press to sand the accessible areas and
hand-sanded the others.)
5
Using the technique outlined in Step 2,
make a full-sized pattern from the gridded
Side pattern on page 9. Stack the two sides
together using double*faced tape. Transfer the
pattern outline and hole cenlerpoints onto the
6 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS JANUARY 1993
BILL OF MATERIALS
Part
Finished Size

CUTTING DIAGRAM
T W L
g
n 0 I I I IIIIIIII@I@I@I
A baok .' 34V,,' 0 1
'fvc:5'/2x96" Oak
B side .' 10W 0 2
C shelf
,..
4
1
12' 3411.2'
0 2
n 1
101010
D divider
,..
4,.. 5' 0 3
'/2)(511zx96' Oak
I
E' drawer front
,..
4
7
,,'
aVe' 0 4
@
I@
II
F' drawer back
,..
4
1
4' ,,"'
0 4 3/4)(7
"
.x96" Oak
G drawer side
,..
4
1
0/18" 0

D
H' bottom V.' 3
11
M' 7V,' 0 4
3/.x7
'
/.)(36" Oak
Cut parts marked with * to size during construction.
Please fead all Instructions before cutting.
Material key: D-oak.
Supplies: 4d nails, l'x17brads, #8x lV4' and #8x2"flat-

5hz' holes countersunk on back
head wood screws, 3-3' wooden Shaker pegs, 4-1'
holes are 7/&>.", '12" deep
wooden drawer knobs, finiSh.
;tY.
. 7/64' hole #8 x 1
'
/.' F.H.
4d nails
...""::; ... ... ... BA k ';1." deep \'ood screw
B l.r _':.;._ ac
Shelf I I
Sld,a_ :1 -'\r::.-..::_ / ....
C I
-) II - r- .;
I

- I) Soil


J --;!-.:::_
r..:.:

'/1 ""- - -

'f
.....
F D
116 x 1"." F.H.
0'
I "t'
li;
screw
--!. ............
I 1/2' hole
0' .
I
--/ ",' de"
3/s" hole 11.' deep with a
\
./
811' >- 4
1
/2'
5132' hole centered Inside
3/s' Fclug
1/2" 8'1." ..::.
"4' ong
top piece. Drill holes through both pieces
NEXT
b
ASSEMBLE THE SHELVES
7fi. We found that
I P tapered plugs
where marked. Counterbore these holes J,I,( deep
AND RAWERS
-- hide the counter-
on the outer faces with a 31ft bit. Now, saw the 1From Wthick stock, cut two shelves (C) to
bored screw holes nicely
sides to shape, and then sand the edges. (We 4lhx34lh". If you can't buy stock
and fit tightly. (Wood-
saved the scraps from these pieces and later cui locally, plane or resaw thicker stock to this size.
worker's Supply sells a 318"
our plugs from them.) Separate the sides. Using Saw three 4lhx5" shelf dividers (D) from the Verltas plug cutter for
a 1J4" round-over bit, rout the back and both side same material. Finish-sand the five pieces. $11.95. For more Informa-
pieces as noled on the drawing above.
tion, telephone 800/645-
2From scrap V4"-thick plywood, cut six 4x81J4"
9292.) Or, if you prefer to
6Drill the three lh
N
holes W deep into the spacers. Next, dry-assemble the shelves and
give your project a slightly
front face of the back for the Shaker pegs. dividers, using the plywood spacers as shown on
different appearance, you
Next, drill the .Ii' screw holes through the panel, page 8 to position the shelf dividers. Clamp the
may want to SUbstitute
mushroom-head or oval-
and countersink them on Ihe back side. Finish- assembly to keep the parts from moving. Cut off
head screw-hole buttons.
sand the back and both ends.
Cominlled
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs JANUARY 1993 7
4-DRAWER SHELF
USING SPACERS TO POSITION DIVIDERS BETWEEN THE SHELVES
Plywood spacer
. "-::-
7'-P Want a simple
__but effective way
to create unlfonn
reveal around any drawer?
Shorten the drawer fronts
and backs, as described
In Step 4, lower right.
liz" rabbet
deep
screws.) Attach the sides the same way. Now,
using aW plug cutter, cut 12 plugs from the side
scrap. Glue the plugs into the W counterbored
holes in the side, and then sand them flush.
the head of a 4d nail, and use it to predrill the
nail holes. Now, glue, clamp, and nail the shelf
unit. Set the nails, and then sand the joints flush.
DRAWER
4
From the 112"thick stock, cut fOUf
fronts (E), four 4
1
16X7%"
drawer backs (F), and eight 4
15
/16x41(4
H
drawer
sides (G) as shown on the Drawer drawing at
left. Next, rip a 4"-wide groove 'h" deep and 1(4"
in from the bottom on all drawer pieces. Now,
plane !j16' from the bottom edges of each
drawer front and back. This creates equal reveal
on all drawer sides.
5
Mounta lh"wide dado on yourtablesaw, and
elevate it to cut 1(4" deep. Then, cut the 'h"-
wide rabbets on both ends of each drawer front
and along the inside back edge of each drawer
side where shown on the Drawer drawing.
Draw diagonal lines to find the centerpoint on
each drawer front. Drill a hole for the knob's
screw. (We drilled 11(64" holes for the screws on
our knobs.) Finish-sand the drawer parts.
"
1/2" rabbet
1/." deep
4
1
/."
"
r
4
15
116'
"
1"x17 brad)

Bad<
Hole centered and
sized to fit knob screw

1" wooden
Shaker knob
3
Glue, clamp, and screw the shelf assembly
to the back. (We temporarily clamped the
unit in position. Next, we drilled through the
existing holes in the back La form 7/64" pilot holes
and then drove the #8xlI(4" flathead wood
6
Dry-assemble one drawer and measure the
opening for the bottom. Cut fOUf bottoms
(H) from W-thick oak plywood or hardboard,
and sand. Next, glue, assemble, clamp, and nail
all drawers, aligning the parts along the top edge.
8 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993
"
"
"
T
"
--L
1 Square =,"
BACK
GRIDDED HALF PATTERN
5"
L
ertical centerline
If.'
I
,j
5132" holes countersunk on back
2
!,
~ t a centerline
I
j' ACK
2j'
3/." Al
I
nt
1/2" holes 5/S' deep
3;'
L
lor wooden pegs
2t,
I 8
1
/2' 8
3
/4'
2
2
1 Square _ 1
SIDE
GAIODED PATTERN
1--
2
'
I
2'----j
l' {"'"
I ~
I-
I--
' I

.
3/8"
101/2" 5'/.'
3/s" holes 1/.' deep with a
5/32' hole centered inside
fi'
1\
1
1
/.'
.u
r=
~ /
V
2'
j
V
,
+
Drawer
(We predrilled the holes and then drove 1"x17
brads.) Do not glue the bottoms in the grooves-
let them float freely. When clamping, check each
drawer for square as shown above, and adjust
the clamps if necessary. After the glue has dried,
remove the clamps, and sand
all joints flush with the
drawer sides.
7
Apply the finish of your
choice. (We left the oak
unstained, but applied one
coat of sanding sealer and
two coats of clear semigloss
lacquer, sanding between
coats to level the finish.)
Finish the Shaker pegs and
wooden drawer knobs at the
same time. Glue the pegs in
[ place, and attach the knobs
after you finish the unit.
8
Locate the wall studs
where you intend to
mount the shelf unit. Hold
the project in position with-
out the drawers in place, aod
mark the stud locations
inside the drawer openings.
Drill and countersink two
~ z shank holes through the back for each stud
location. Position the shelf again, and drive a
#8x'l: flathead or drywall screwinto each stud.
Now, level the shelf unit, drive the remaining
screws, and install the shelves. _
I fuLL-SIZED PATIERN
To order a full-sized half
pattern of the 10ur-drawer
shelf back:
Send $1 for handling and a
self-addressed, business-
sized envelope with 29
cents U.S. postage to:
Shelf PaUern
Weekend Woodworking
Projects
1912 Grand Ave.
Des Moines, IA
50309-3379
Project designer and builder:
Chuck Hedlund
illustrations: Roxaflne LeMoine;
Carson Ode
WEEKEND WOODWDRKlNG PROIECfS JANUARY 1993 9
Noteworthy
Notepad
i\ "ake a name for yourself-or a
1 V1 relative or friend-with a desk
accessory that's certain to draw
attention at the office. We'll showyou
how to vary the size ofthe project so
that just about any name will fit in the
scrollsawed area.
10 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs JANUARY 1993
WHAT'S IN A NAME
ESTABUSHES YOUR PROJECf WIDTH
Note: The lengths a/the back (A), front (C), and
bottom (E) as well as the width o[thepenpad (F)
change, depending on the length of the name.
1
Trace or photocopy the leuers on page 12
needed for the name. Cut out the letters and
the start and stop spaces. Scribe a line on a piece
of paper, space the letters on that line as shown
below, and tape them in position. (We spaced
our letters W apart and then shifted them slightly
to improve their appearance.) Now, add a start
space at the beginning of the name and a stop
space at the end.
2
Measure the name, including the start and
stop spaces. Then, add some additional
length for the end margins. (We added SAt to
both ends [11,4" total] of our name. With longer
names, you may want to add .y.( to each end for
visual balance.) This measurement establishes
the length of the stock needed for the back (A).
Next, find the lengthwise center of the name, and
scribe a vertical centerline through it. Now, cut
out the assembled name,leaving a '/4" margin.
3
Angle your lablesaw blade 5 from vertical.
From \h"-thick stock, bevel-rip the back
piece 2.( wide. Crosscut this piece I" longer than
the length you detennined in Step 2. Lay the back
flat (see the Side View Section opposite to
make sure you've oriented the piece correctly).
Next, scribe a vertical centerline on the face of
the piece and a horizontal line I" down from the
top. Now, adhere your letters to the back's front
by aligning the vertical and horizontal lines of
the letters with those on the piece.
ALIGNING THE LETTERS
Centered
Side@
E
Bottom
Pen pad F
,
,
,
,
D
Base
/
3"
Variable
;--.,. 12'
bevels
5/16' hole
SIDE VIEW SECTION
B
5" bevel atong
bottom edge
EXPLOOEO VIEW
4
Drill Jh" start holes through the open leiter
areas, the areas separating the letters, and
the start and stop spaces at the ends of the name.
Scrollsaw these spaces. (We used a #5 scroll-
saw blade.) After sawing out all areas, remove
the pattern and lightly sand the cut edges.
Now, trim the back to final width, cutting from
both ends to center the name in the back piece.
5
To notch the back for the sides, first trace
the L-shaped Back End pattern on page 13
onto cardboard. (We used a piece of an old file
folder for ours.) Cut this pattern to shape. Next,
iXlSition the pattern on one end of the back, align
the edges of the pattern with the back, and then
trace around the inside edge. Turn the pattern
over, and trace its outline onto the opposite end
of the back. Now, using the miter gauge on your
bandsaw, carefully cut the notches into both ends
of the back piece.
FINISH CUTIING OUT THE PARTS,
AND THEN ASSEMBLE THE HOLDER
1
From Vl' -thick stock, cut two 2x4
1
l4" pieces
for the sides (B). Copy patterns B, C, and D
on page 13. Cut out the full-sized Side pattern,
and adhere it 10 the face of one side piece. Using
double-faced tape, stack this piece on top of the
remaining piece. Saw the curve and the back and
front bevels, cutting just wide of the lines.
Then, sand to the lines. (We sanded the curves
with our ~ drum sander.)
2
To make the front (C), rough-cut a lh"-thick
piece 1V 4 ~ wide and ~ long. Next, angle
your tablesaw blade to 5 from vertical, and
bevel-rip the piece to 15ju;" wide. Adhere the
Front pattern to the sideofthe front piece, align-
ing the left edges. Saw the notch into the front
piece, and then sand. Remove the pattern.
COII/inued
-r:;. We positioned
lIP the pen to the
-- right side of the
notepad on our holder.
However, if you're left-
handed or simply prefer
having the pen on the left
side, just flip the front pat-
tern end-for-end, and align
it with the right end of the
front piece. Then, cut the
thumb notch into the piece
at that position.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 11
NOTEPAD HOLDER
ABCDEFGHIJK
LMNOP RSTU
3
Using the Base pattern, cut two wedge-
shaped base pieces (0). Next, dry-assemble
the back and sides as shown on the Exploded
Viewdrawing. (As shown below, we dry-clamped
the pieces temporarily.) Mark and then cross-
cut the front piece to fit between the sides by
trimming where shown on the pattern. Next,
measure the rectangular opening, and rough-eut
a piece ofstock If.I:" wider and longer for the bot-
tom. Resaw this piece to !At thickness. Bevel-
rip one edge of this thin piece at 12
0
, and then
12 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS JANUARY 1993
trimit to fit the holder opening. Now, make sure
all parts fit, and adjust as needed by sanding.
4
Glue, assemble, and clamp the back, side,
and front pieces. Check the holder for
square, and adjust if necessary. After the glue
dries, remove the clamps, and finish-sand all
joints. Glue and clamp the wedge-shaped base
pieces and the bottom to the assembled holder.
Remove the clamps after the glue has dried.
5
To size the pen pad (F), first place a notepad
in the holder against the left edge. Measure
the distance between the notepad and the
opposite side of the holder. (We used a 3x3" self-
sticking notepad [like a 3M Post-it] in our
holder. With a longer name, you may have
enough length for a 3x5" notepad.) Next, rip a
Vl"'-thick piece of walnut to that dimension. Now,
bevel-cut one end of that piece at 12
0
, return
your sawblade to vertical, and crosscut the oppo-
site end so it fits inside the holder where shown.
6
Locate the centerpoint for the pen hole in
the pen pad. (We centered ours top-la-bot-
tom and side-to-side.) Drill a 5!l/;" hole through
the pen pad, and then finish-sand the piece. (We
used a cone-shaped bit because it forms a con-
ical-shaped hole. Atapered pencil or pen fits into
Ihis hole nicely and stands better. See the
Buying Guide for a mail-order source for a
tapered bit.) Glue and clamp the part in place.
Now, extend the pen hole through the bottom.
FULL-SIZED PATTERNS

SIDE
l
@BASE
J
\.
)
'-Align with end

of piece
Saw oul notch
FRONT
/
BACK
,
BILL OF MATERIALS
Part
Finished Size*
T W L t
Flip pattern to
A'
",k
'h' 2W
""
W 1
make notch on
opposite end B side W
.,,,
W 2
C' front W '.
....
W 1
0
""
W 1\116' 2,.. W 1
'-NotCh this area
E' bonom W 3W W 4W 1
F' pen pad W lV4' 3W W 1
/
Note that the length of parts A, C, and Eand the width
of part Fwill vary depending on the length of your name.
(We test-fitted the pen in the hole until the hole
Read all instructions before cutting these pa!1s.
depth appeared appropriate.)
Material key: W-walnut
7Finish-sand the holder. Next, apply the fin-
Supplies: 3x3' (or larger) self-sticking notepad,
ish ofyour choice. (We applied a coat of clear
pencil or ball-point pen.
sanding sealer and then two build-up coats of
Buying Guide: Power-drive hole restorer. (Cooe-shaped
semigloss lacquer. We sanded between coats
hole reamer.) Catalog no. 826-105. Plice: $7.95plus $3.55
with 320-grit sandpaper to level the finish.) packing and shipping. From: Woodworker's Supply
1108 N. Glenn Rd., Casper, WY 82601-1698. Credit caTd
8Now, outfit the holder with a notepad and
orders call 8001645-9292.
your favorite pen or pencil. _
-r;"'; We made our
.f!E.- notepad holder
from 1/2"-thlck
walnut stock. We C'Jt all of
the parts fromascrap piece
measuring 4x14", Includ-
Ing the resawn lIS--thick
bottom. If you don't have
thIn stock, you can use
118"-thlck plywood or hard-
board. Finish-sand both
surfaces of your stock
before cutting.
Project design: James Boelling,
Oes Moines
lIIuslralJons: Kim Downing;
Roxanne leMoine; Carson Ode
Project buildM: Clluck Hedlund
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 199J 13
~
MASK
31/2' deep
BASE

Join patterns
along this line
lis" stock
'/.x2
'
/2' F.H.
machine screw
112' hole -1=:1'-...,
3/s' deep r-
'-
3 1 6 ~
11/
64
" hole
31f.deep
countersunk
Spread your
woodworking wings
Peacock
on Parade
Vou'll be proud as
1. apeacock after
completing this regal
centerpiece. Just fan
the candleholders-
all cut from the same
stock-and then
bask in the glow of
compliments from
your party guests.
1
Copy the full-sized peacock pattern. (We
photocopied ours.) Next, rough-cut a board
to 7xI2". (We chose oak. If you intend to paint
the project, we suggest using birch or poplar.)
Now, adhere the peacock pattern to the board,
aligning the bottomof the pattern with the bot-
tom edge of your board.
2
With a try-square, extend the locations of
the scrcwhole centerlines from the side of
the pattern around to the bottom edge of your
board. Now, using the same procedure, extend
the 11,(' candle-hole ccnterlines across the top
edge of the piece.
3
Drill and countersink the W shank hole %"
deep into the base. (While drilling, we
clamped the board to the drill-press table with
a wood screw clamp.) Now, center and drill a
J2
N
pilot hole through the base and into the
board to a depth of 1",
4
Bore the Vi" diameter candle holes in the
center of the board's top edge where marked.
Drill each hole to the depth specified on the pat-
tern. Before drilling these holes, we suggest you
check that the candles you buy will fit the holes
you drill in the top edge. (We purchased 12"-long
lh" tapers at a local Hallmark store.)
14 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs JANUARY 1993
11/8" deep
2'_
23!s"deep
'ms'deep
Drill all 1/2'
candle holes
to depth
indicated
Join patterns along this line
3/32' hole
" de p
lie' hole
~ __3/8' deep
countersunk
First saw ctJt
1" drywall screw
5
Using yOUf scrollsaw and a #5 blade, cui
away the base pivot. Next, drill the I V ~ hole
31,4" deep into the board. Now, counterbore a
Ih"- diameter hole 3,Is" deep for the nut.
6
Scrollsawaround the outside edge of the pat-
tern to separate the bird from the scrap.
Next, saw around the eight inner tail feathers,
and then cut them apart.
7
Trace the eye mask pattern onto two pieces
of tAt-thick wood. (We chose walnut.) Saw
the eye in each, and then cut both masks to
shape. Glue a mask to each side of the head.
BASE
8
Countersink the bolt hole in the lOp fcather.
Sand the curving ends of the base piece so
that it can pivot when screwed 10 the body.
9
ApplyyOUf choice of finish. (We applied one
coat of sanding sealer and one coat of clear
lacquer, sanding between coats with 320-gril
sandpaper.) If painting, prime all pieces first.
10
Assemble the feathers. Insert a V4x21f.!:"
flathead brass machine screw through
the holes. Place the feathers on the bird. Thread
on the nut and tighten. Grind off the screw's
excess. Screw the base piece in place. _
Supplies: 0/4' slock, 1Al" stock,
finish, 1-#6xl'dryNall screw,
1-l!4x2W flathead brass
machine SCfeW and nut.
Project desIgn and Illustration:
BillZaun
Project builder: Rick Hutcheson
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 15
2
Mount a 4"-wide dado set on your tablesaw,
and CUi a:W-wide rabbet W' deep along each
end of both side pieces where shown on the
Exploded View drawing opposite.
3
To accommodate the back, reduce the dado
and cut a V4
H
-wide rabbet W' deep along the
inside back edge of both side pieces and along
one edge of both plates. See the Exploded View
drawing for details.
G
enerations ago, craftsmen built
shallow cabinets for families'
everyday dinner service. Although
originally designed for plates, this
reproduction also makes an excellent
display space for other collections
such as dolls, tin boxes, orfigurines.
THE BASIC CABINET
GOES TOGETHER QUICKLY
1
From your:4"-thickstock, saw two sides (A),
two plates (B), and two shelves (C) to the
dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials onpage
18. (We chose to make our cabinet from poplar
because we intended to paint it.) Next, from 1;2"-
thick stock, cui the crown piece (D). IfyOll can't
buy Ill' lumber locally, plane or resaw thicker
stock to this size. Refer to the Cutting diagram
onpage 18 to see how we laid out our stock for
cutting of the cabinet parts.
Great for plates-and collections, too
Classic Country Cabinet
/( .
l ~ ~ l
4
Mark the shelf locations on the side pieces
using the dimensions shown on the Exploded
View drawing and the Side detail. Layout two
screw holes for each shelf, and then drill and
counterbore them as detailed on the drawings.
5
Set up your table-mounted rQuter as shown
on the Shelfdetail opposite. Rout a \I.I"-groove
16" deep in the top face of both shelves and the
Continued
16 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs JANUARY 1993
SHELF DETAIL
Fence---...j
MOLDING DETAIL
3/8' plug
'1.' rabbet
114' deep
3/a" hole
11.' deep
_lhs'_deep
grooves
,--_3/.' rabbet
'1.' deep
--t--- '/.' rabbet
- '/4" deep
~ #6)(1
1
/2" F.H.
.... <) wood screw
<) ~ 3/
S
" plug
1/4" long
6'1, r-

CD
Back
3/.' rabbet
'(.' deep
B C
1/.' core-box bit
Router table
3/8' hole
5/32" '1.' deep
" / l ~ l o n
~ ~ qO
l #8x1'/2" F.H.
wood screw
N
Ledger strip
Mount on wall before
hanging cabinet ,----'-r------"
Round edges
D
'/2' bead
3/8)(1'/2' dowel pin
1
1
/2"
3/sx1
1
/2"
dowel pin
3/s' hole. 13/16' deep
3/8)(1'/2" dowel pin
E Slile
3/8X1'/2' dowel pin
3/8' hole, 13/16" deep
.-/
3/S' hole
13/16' deep
SCREW HOLE DETAIL
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 17
PLATE CABINET
BILL OF MATERIALS
Part
Finished Size-
~
T W L

t
See Screw
C
A side
'0'
51,1t 37V.z' P 2
Hole detail
B plale
'0'
51J.z" 261J.!' P 2
r
l
c shelf
'0'
5' 26' P 2
'2'
12'
D crown W B' 31' P
1
'
/2'
(, ~
E slila
'0'
,-
37
'
1.!" P 2
F rail
'0'
2 1 ~ 211h' P
G rail
'0'
,,' 211,ll P
13'
13
3
/8'
W trim
'0'
1lh' 301/4' P
L J
"
trim
'0'
11ft
""
P 2
J' trim
'0' .,'
28
1
,S' P
SIDE DETAIL
K' trim
'0' '0'
"
P 2
L'
""'"
W
,..,' ,..,'
PW
M' cleat
'0' .,' 2B' P
N ledger
'0'
"
271k' P
'Parts marked with an * are cut to final size during con-
slruction. Please fead all instructions before cutting.
Malerial key: P-pop!ar; PW-pine plywood
Supplies: #6x11k" nalhead wood screws, %x 1
1
1.!" dowel
pins, paint, and finish.
ROUTING THE BLIND GROOVE ON TilE SHELVES
Bit centerline
on lence
Rouler table
18 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS JANUARY 1993
CUTTING DIAGRAM
~ ) @
2 pieces- 3/4x 5
'
12 x 65" Poplar
~ I
3/4 x 5
1
12 x 53' Poplar
~ @ 0
3/4 X9
'
/4 X60' Poplar
bottom plate. (To rout these blind grooves, we
first scribed a mark on the router fence in line
with the center of the bit. Next, we scribed lines
[on the underside!2
N
from the end of each shelf
and 2V4" from the end of the bottom plate. To
rout the grooves, we aligned the front line on
each piece with the bit's centerline as shown
belowleft, lowered the pieces over the spinning
bit, and then moved them forward until the sec-
ond line aligned with that mark.) Now, finish
sand all parts with 100- and ISO-grit sandpaper.
6
Dry-assemble the case on your floor or
workbench. Next, glue the top and bottom
plates in the side rabbets, clamp, and check the
corners for square. Wipe off any glue squeeze
out with a damp cloth.
7
Position the shelves inside the cabinet, and
place a V4"thick spacer underneath them to
provide an offset for the back. Next, center the
shelves on the side holes, and square them with
the sides. Drive Ihe screws through the predrilled
holes in the sides. (After squaring the shelves
to the sides, we held them in place with clamps
and then drilled the .J2
N
pilot holes 1" deep in
the shelf ends before driving the #6xl Y.2" flat-
head wood screws.)
8
Using a J,it plug cutter, cut eight JA"-Iong
plugs from your scrap. Next, glue one in each
of lhe counterbored screw holes. After the
glue dries, sand the plugs so they will be flush
with the sides. .
9
Applyglue to the top surface of the top plate.
Place the crown (D) on it, align the back
edges, and center the crown from side to side.
Now, clamp this assembly until the glue dries.
4
Glue and clamp the face frame onto the
assembled cabinet. Sand the edges of the face
frame flush with the cabinet sides and bottom.
3
To assemble the face frame, first glue
3lsxllfl' dowel pins in the ends of the rails.
Next, glue the ends of the dowel pins into the
stiles. Square and clamp the frame.

,..
'--.11 LJ/.
3f8' holes ?i
13
116' deep
FACE FRAME DETAIL
Project dellgn: Roxanne LeMoine.
Des Moines
IIlustrallons: Roxanne LeMoine;
Carson Ode
Project builder: ChlJd( Hedlund
j 7/16'
:?K.,
3/8' holes /1
13116" deep F I
end, and cut the groove in the opposite side.
Now, move the fence and cut a third groove that
will be centered between the two outer grooves.

,
ScTap gorde
MARKING TilE FACE FRAME RAILS WITH DowEL. CENTERS
2
Attach the back panel to the cabinet open-
ing with l"x 16 nails.
8
If you plan to mount the plate cabinet on a
wall, you'll need to cut a :V4xllh" mounting
cleat (M) to fit inside the cabinet under the top
plate. If you knowwhere the cabinet will hang,
hold the mounting cleat in position on that wall,
and mark the stud locations on the strip. Drill
and countersink screw holes on these marks.
Now, finish-sand the piece, and glue it in place
inside the cabinet where shown on the Exploded
View drawing. From the same stock, cut a
piece for a ledger strip (N). Mount it
on the wall before hanging the cabinet.
3
To wall-mount your cabinet, attach the
ledger strip to the wall at the height you want
the bottom of the cabinet. (We countersank the
holes in the strip and then drove drywall screws
into the wall studs.) Next, place the cabinet on
top of the ledger strip, align the edges, and then
drive 2
1
12"-long drywall screws through the
mounting cleat and into the wall studs.
THE FINAL STEPS: FINISHING AND
MOUNTING THE CABINET
1
Apply the finish of your choice. (We applied
two coats of Sherwin-Williams Oxford Blue
interior flat enamel to our cabinet and ledger
strip and a medium-oak colored slain to the back
panel. After the slain dried, we brushed on two
coals of semigloss lacquer, sanding each coat
after it dried with 320-grit sandpaper.)
Tabtesaw
Fence
L
BACK GROOVE
DETAIL
2
Plot centerpoints for the W-diameter dowel
holes on the inside edges of both stiles as
dimensioned on the Face Frame detail at right.
Drill these holes 11(( deep. Next, place:}it' dowel
centers in these holes, and as shown above righl,
mark the centerpoints for mating holes in the
top and bottom rails. Drill these holes tHe deep.
Finish-sand the paris.
6
Measure the width of the cabinet, and
cut the trim pieces (H, J) from those strips
to fit the front. Glue and clamp them in place.
Measure and cut the side trim pieces (I, K), and
glue them in place.
NEXT, PREPARE THE
FACE FRAME AND TRIM
1
From in-thick stock, cut two stiles (E), one
top rail (F), and onc bottom rail (0).
7
Measure the back opening between the
rabbets, and cut a W'-thick plywood panel
to that size for the back (L). (We used pine ply-
wood.) To groove the back, set up your table-
saw as shown in the Back Groove detail above.
Turn the plywood so the good side faces down,
and cui the first groove. Turn the piece end-for-
5
To make the top trim, rip and crosscut one
:V4xllhx56" strip and one :V4X:V4X56" strip.
Next, rout a lh'" bead along one edge of the Ilh"
wide strip (for H, I), as shown on the Molding
detail on page 17. and a lh" cove along one edge
of the :V4"-square strip (for J, K).
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECT"S JANUARY 1993 19
Mirror,
Mirror on
the Wall
D
on't let this skinny frame fool
you. Despite being only 5
3
14"
wide, it works just as well as a
standardfull-length mirror when you
check out your head-to-toe attire.
HERE'S AN EASY WAY TO CUT
TIlE FRAME OPENING
1
Cut a piece ofi"-thickstock to 5tx60", (We
chose oak for our mirror frame.) Scribe
lines 1(.( in from both ends of the piece.
2
Make two copies of the full-sized End pat-
tern opposite. (We traced ours using carbon
paper.) Cut out the patterns, and apply adhe-
sive to the backs. Adhere them to the board,
aligning the pattern ends with these lines.
3
Elevate the sawblade, placing the gullets tAl"
above the board's top. Next, make an auxil-
iary fence at least 130" long, center it over the
blade arbor, and attach it to your saw's rip fence.
Now, set the auxiliary fence 'VI/i" from the
inside of the saw blade.
4
Place the board against the exiting edge of
the saw blade. Using a square, transfer this
point into a vertical line on the side of the fence
as shown in illustration A. This will be your stop
reference line. Next, place the board against the
entry edge of the blade, and transfer this point
to a line on the side of the auxiliary fence as
shown in illustration B. This will be yourstart line.
5
Hold the board against the fence as shown
in illustration C, aligning the forward pattern's
rip start/stop line with the start line on the fence.
Clamp a stopblock to the fence at the end of the
board. (We used a short workpiece to demon-
20 WEEKEND WooOWORKING PROJECtS JANUARY 1993
ILLUSTRATION A
Saw exit point
Workpiece

strate this. To rip your frame, you'll need to posi-

tion the stopblock much farther back from the
saw blade than we show here.)
6
Position the board against the stopblock and
fence, holding it above the saw blade. Turn
on the saw, and slowly lower the piece onto the
saw blade. Then, move the board forward until
the pattern's rip start/stop line aligns with the
stop line on the fence as shown in illustration D.
Turn the piece end-for-end and rip the oppo-
site side the same way.
7
With a hand jigsaw, finish sawing the frame's
inside opening at both ends. Drill W start
holes through the cone-shaped pattetn areas,
and saw them to shape. Now, saw around the
outside pattern edge.
Now, JUST ROUT THE EDGES
AND ApPLY THE FINISH
1
Sand the cut edges. With a %" piloted
round-over bit, rout the front edges of the
frame. (We did not roul the small, cone-shaped
areas.)
2
Apply the finish ofyour choice. (We brushed
on a light-oak oil stain, let it set for about
10 minutes, and then wiped off the excess with
a dry cloth. After the stain dried, we brushed on
one coat of sanding sealer and then two coats
of clear, semigloss lacquer.) _
318" round-over5
'I." hole liz' deep drilled at
a 20" angle into back of
mirror frame (optional)
----l
1/2"
3132' pilot hole
112" deep
Mirror clip
Supples: v." pIaIe mi'ror, mi"-
ror clips, '4xY.!' panhead
saew5, smaI saeweyes, pic-
ture wire, lnish.
SIDE VIEW
'1.' mirror
Mi"',<'
olips 1t
;<'
52
'
/z"
y'
EXPLODED
VIEW
3/8"
,ouod-
~ ...
Set stopblock
= : . = ~
ILLUSTRATION C
Rip starVslop line
FULLSIZED
PATTERN
..-1-- Rip startfstop line
'/4' hole 1/2" deep drilled
at a 20" angle on back side.
Project de$Ign: James R. DowrWlg
lllustr1llloM: Kim 0CMrW1g;
"""'""'"
PTofec:t builder; Ron Ha'ttltlllUt
/JP By setting the
__ stop/start lines
on the auxiliary
fence as shown In illustra-
tions Aand B, and then
starting and ending the
cuts at the start/stop
lines on the pattern,
you'll automatically
keep the saw cut
1/8" back from
the corner on
the underside.
'-
TiP
-
We mounted our
mirror onto the
back of the frame
with metal clips. If
you prefer to recess
the mirror so the frame
will fit flat against the
wall, rout a t/4- rabbet 1/4-
deep around the Inside
back edge of the frame.
Then, cut a mirror to fit the
rabbet Hold It in place with
a bead of silicone sealant.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 21
R
emember those lightweight, painted metal
Chinese checker boards you used to play
with as a child? If so, you'll really appreciate
this project for its style andgood looks. And if
you give this game as agift, you'll be known
for your generosity and your woodworking
skills. Come on, why not give it ago!
5
Make the step-and-repeat jigshown onpage
29. Place it on your drill-press table, and set
it up to use as described. Now, with a Ih'" core-
box router bit, bore the Vz"'-diameter marble
holes V4'" deep.
4
Center and align the pattern on the game
board as shown top right. (We used a small
brad to align the centerpoints of the pattern and
board. We also made certain that the star cen-
terHnes aligned with the board's centerlines.)
Using a light coat of rubber cement, adhere the
pattern to the board.
3
Make two copies of the Star half pattern pro-
vided on page 28. (We photocopied ours.)
With scissors, cut out the patterns, leaving a l/4"
margin around the edges. Tape the two half pat-
tern copies together to complete the six-pointed
star. Next, apply a light coat of adhesive to the
pattern back. (We used rubber cement.)
2
Trim the game board to 14" square. Select
the top face, and draw diagonal Jines to find
the centerpoint. Mark it with an awl. Next, using
a framing square and pencil, scribe centerlines
to divide the board into four equal parts as shown
on the Game Board Front View drawingoppo-
site. Drill a V\f;" hole through the center.
2
Scribe a centerline on the board's back, and
then mark a centerpoint 31,02'" from the top.
Rout a keyhole slot at that point as dimensioned
on the Keyhole Slot detail associated with the
Back Viewopposite.
THE GAME BOARD-IT's EASlER To
MAKE THAN You MIGHT THINK
1
From 4"-thick stock (we chose maple), cut
three pieces 44'" wide and 1411,( long. Glue-
join them to make up a 14V4x14Jh" panel. After
the glue dries, remove the clamps, scrape off any
glue squeeze-out, and sand both surfaces with
100- and ISO-grit sandpaper.
GET READY TO SHAPE
THE GAME BOARD
1
Using a compass and the center hole on the
board's back, scribe a 5V4"-radius (lOJh"'diam-
eter) circle. Next, with the same compass setting,
mark off six equidistant points along that circle
where shown on the Game Board Back View
drawingopposite. Drill Wholes Vi6' deep at these
points for screwhole buttons.
,
..
'"
....
............
............
...........
..........
., .......
..........
...........
............
.. , ..
....
...
'.'
,
ABOARD-GAME CLASSIC
Chinese
Checkers
22 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS JANUARY 1993
".deep
KEYHOLE
SLOT DETAIL
When culling
7/"P keyhole slots,
--always let your
router bit come to a full
stop before removing it
from the slol
-r,; We suggest you
IIP saw the game
--board on your
bandsaw. However, if you
prefer, you may shape the
board using a hand-held
router, straight bit, and
trammel base.
,
,
,
,
,
,
I
,
,
,
,
,
,
----<>--
'e
,
,
,
,
, ,
, '
'---:....
" I
, '
----e---
\ I
\ Cencer1ine
, ,
, ,
, ,
,
,
BACK VIEW
we scribed one line to mark the location of the
top edge of each groove.)
3
To roul the first sIal, place the workpiece
on your bench. Oamp the fence at the nee-.
essary distance from the slot edge (determined
in the previous step) as shownbottom right, page
24. Place the spacer you made in the previous
step between the fence and the router's base.
COlltinued
2
Set your keyhole slot-cutting bit to cut as
dimensioned on the Router Setup drawing
on page 25. Measure from the edge of the bit
10 Ihe edge of your router's base to determine
the fence position. From Ih..thick scrap, cut a
o/J.6"-wide and 6"'-long spacer.
3
Scribe a 6t'-radius .<fiameter) circle
on the board's back. Handsaw the board
round, sawing just outside this line.
5
Using a round-over bil, rout along bOlh
edges of the board. Finishsand the board.
4
Sand the sawed edge of the game board as
shown above. (We clamped a piece of scrap
plywood to our sander's table to serve as a pivot
board and then drove a 4d nail into it 6" from
the edge and in line with the center of the sand-
ing disc. We clipped off the nailhead [leavingW
of the nail exposed) and then placed the board's
centerhole over this pivot. We then rotated the
board slowly against the spinning sander.
Applying light pressure against the plywood pivot
board increases sanding depth on the game
board's edge.)
BUlLD THIS ATTRACTIVE WALL
MOUNT FOR YOUR GAME BOARD
1
From4"-l.hick stock (we chose walnut), cut
a 4Vlx2Tpiece. Sand both faces of this board
with 15().grit sandpaper. Next, layout the six
grooves on the board, using the dimensions on
the Wall Mount drawingonpage 24. (Todo this,
weeKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 23
Area to be
routed
Buying Guide
Keyhole router bit. Carbide--tipped, W diameter, W$haN<.
Price: $10.99 plus $4.95 shipping. From: Eagle America,
P.O. Box 1099, Chardon, OH 44024. Telephone: 800/872-
2511.
'Marble assortment for Chinese checkers. Six sets of 10
marbles. Catalog no. 8018. Price: $4.39 plus $3.95 ship-
ping. From: Meisel Hardware SpeciaRies, P.O. Box 70-
WEW, Mound, MN 55364-0070.
Make the first pass with
your routcr. Next, remove
the spacer, and makea sec-
ond router pass. Now, care-
fully rout away any wood
remaining between the two
grooves by making additional
router passes.
4
Move the fence to the second slot
line and repeat the procedures.
Rout the fOUf remaining slots the same way.
BILL OF MATERIALS
Part
Finished Size*
"
T W L t
A
""'d
.,'
13Wdia.
"
B wall mount .,'
4' 2r W
C holder W lV4' r C 12
Material key: M--maple; W-walnul; C--cherry
Supplies: #10x4' and #10:<2" panhead screws, six %"
mushroom-type screw-hole buttons, six sets of 10 mar-
bles, finish.
'Cut parts to final dimensions during construction. Please
read all instructions before cutting.
ROUTING SLOTS IN TilE WALL MOUNT
c
7/6J,' hole
1/2" deep
B
Wall mount
2'
4'
""''''"-''"''''''''C Marble holders
1/2" radius
lf2" radlus"-_"'"
7/6J,' hole
t/2" deep
J
27"
3he' groove 1/S' deep
27"
5116' round-overs
A Game board
#10 x3/.'
panhead screw
]w
J10'
I-- Keyhole slot
't-- 7/&J." hole
1/2" deep
3/8' buttons
L
1
WALL MOUNT
-ffi) Wall mount
1
1
/2"
16
10'
...
7/8"-----
7f8"---
.'1_,'_-

#10 x3f4"
panhead
wood screw
CHINESE
CHECKERS
1/2" holes
,/." deep
24 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 199J
Keyhole
3ft,' :J slot-cutting
M
e------"
SAWING HIE MAKUU: HOLDERS TO UNIFORM
7fi. The slots In the

the marble holders were
sized to match the cuts
made by the keyhole slot-
cutting router bit listed in
the Buying Guide. If you
use adifferent bit, you may
have to change the dimen-
sions on these parts.
Router
ROUTER
SETUP
"
2
To form the marble grooves, first make the
router template shown on page 26. Place it
over one of the IV4"-wide boards as shown at
right, align the centermark of the template with
the first line on the board, and clamp the lem-
plate in place. Next, using core-box bit, rout
the W -deep groove. See the Marble Holder
drawingonpage 26 for details. Using a sharp car-
bide bit will help minimize wood burning.
6
Cut a piece of4"-thick plywood to 12x14
N
.
Make certain that the plywood has a solid
edge free of voids, and then glue sandpaper to
the top face. Nail a fence across the ply.vood par-
allel to the front edge and exactly T back (rom
Contillued
5
Using your tablesaw and a !,tN-thick blade,
cut the l'i6'-wide and n:H-deep groove on the
outside of two holder halves where shown on the
Marble Holder drawing. Note that this requires
two passes with a W-thick blade. Put the two
halves together face-te-face, and insert Ihem in
the wall mount slots to test-fit. Make saw
adjustments if necessary for a good fit. Then, cut
the grooves in your remaining holders.
4
To cut the holder halves to uniform length,
first set a stopblock on your saw's miter gauge
3Wfrom the blade as shown belowrighi. Next,
align the centerline of each holder with the stop-
block, and crosscut one end on each holder.
Mark the untrimmed ends. Now, set the stop-
block at 7
N
, and saw off the marked ends.
3
Move the template to align with the next line,
and raul the second groove the same way.
Rout the remaininggrooves on both boards fol-
lowing these procedures. Crosscut the holders
to rough length for easier handling.
5
Rip or plane the wall mount 10 final width.
(We trimmed both edges.) Next, lay Oul the
vt'-radiuscorners, and then saw and sand them
to shape. Rout the two keyhole slots into the
mount's back T from each end. Now, drill the
screw hole in the front face.
WITH T1iESE HOLDERS, You WON'T
HAVE TO HUNT FOR THE MARBLES
1
Rip and crosscut two 4"thick boards to
IV4x96", (We chose cheny.) Now, scribe lines
across both, the first starting at 4" from the end
and the others at 8" intervals.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING I'RomCfS JANUARY 1993 25
CHINESE
CHECKERS
Cleats
it. Next, place half of the holders side-by-side
with the 3(4" groove face down on the sandpa-
per. Then, press them tightly together, and tack
scrap strips along both edges. (The strips also
keep the bit from tearing the edges of the out-
side holders.) Now,clamp a plywood bar across
the holders to secure them firmly.
TOP VIEW
Size opening to
fil router base
lis"
'..
BonOMVIEW
ROUTER TEMPLATE
'.
l/a" holes deep
mating holes
9
/64' diameter
1/2" round-over
3116" round-over
fronl edge
1/6' blind
half-slot
lIa" dowel

3116' round-over 61/
4
'
front edge
3/4' groove 3/a" deep
MARBLE HOLDER
5
3116" groove lIa" deep
3M from back edge
"'-1/6' dowel
1/2' long
,.
/-.-..

\,/ --3116'

t 3hf groove
l/a deep
7
Using a piloted If.!" round-over bit, fout the
exposed edges of the holder halves as shown
above. Sand the rounded ends. (We used our pad
sander.) Next, turn the holder halves end-ior-
end, reverse the side cleats, and round over and
sand the exposed holder ends. Finally, shape the
remaining holder halves the same way.
8
Table-mount your rouler, and set a W'
straight bit to cut 3(16' deep. Place the fence
on the right sidc so it touches the bit, and as
shown at right, set stopblocks 3W in front and
in back of the bit. Start the router, place a holder
(caved face) against the fence (groove at top),
and lower il down onto the bit. Rout the blind
half-slot along the edge where shown on the
Marble Holder drawing. Test-rout two holder
halves, and join their mating faces to determine
if the stopblocks need to be reset. Adjust if
needed. Now, rout the half-slot in each holder
half. (We made two passes-the first to cut the
slot, the second to clean up the edge.)
Note: To drill the mating dowel holes accurately
into the holders, you needto set all stopblocksfrom
the same edge. The next two steps alld the 2-step
drawings opposite explain how to do this.
9
Clamp a fence to your drill-press table 3flf)
from the hole centerpoint. Set a stopblock
to locate the first hole IN from the end as shown
on the Step I Drilling Holders drawing oppo-
site. Next, using this setup, drill a Whole 1(,( deep
into halfof your holders. Switch to a 0/64" bit, and
without moving the fence or stopblock, drill a
26 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993
DRILLING HOLDERS
STEP 1
Centerpoint of
drill and hole
TOP VIEW
Fence,
..
--') '-
l' \ Caved lace up
Drill 1sl hole lIs" or
STEP 2
TQPVIEW
1st hole
Siopblock
Drill 2nd hole either lIs" or 9/64'
Caved face up
straight bit Stopblock
SETTING ROUTER TO CUT BLIND SLOTS
I
9/64" hole in the remaining half of the holders.
To avoid confusion later, separate the holders
with differently sized holes as you drill.
10
Take the last holder you drilled, and
continue the %4" hole all the way
through it. Next, flip Ihis holder end-for-end and
turn it upside down. Center the bit in that hole.
Move the stopblock and clamp it to the oppo-
site end of the holder as shown on the Step 2
drawing. Using that setup, drilllhc second %(
hole in the holders with that size of hole. Then,
switch back to a lAI" bit, and drill the second hole
in the holders with the W' holes.
11
From a 1Al" dowel, cut twelve 3(,( lengths
and glue them in the 1Al" holes. Next, saw
the dowels to a final length of VII)". (As shown
above right, we placed an auxiliary hardboard top
on our bandsaw and set the fence to cut the dow-
els uniformly to the desired length.) Sand the
tips of each dowel to chamfer them slightly.
Now'S THE DME TO ADD YOUR OWN
FINISHING TOUCHES
1
Finish-sand all parts with 150- and lBO-grit
sandpaper. Plug the small hole in the cen-
ter of the game board. (We glued in a round
toothpick and sanded it flush.) Next, apply the
finish of your choice. (We applied one coat of
sanding sealer, lei it dry, and then sanded with
320-grit sandpaper. Later, we applied two coals
of clear polyurethane, sanding between coats.)
2
Glue W mushroom-type screw-hole buttons
into the holes in the underside of your
game board. Drive a # lOx." panhead screw
into the wall mount where shown, allowing the
head to protrude about V." above the surface.
Hang the game board on this screw and adjust
the screw depth. To prepare the wall mount,
drive #lOx2" panhead screws into the wall to
match the position of the keyhole slots in the
mount board. Now, hang the wall-mount board
over these two screws. Adjust if necessary. _
-r;; The marble hold-
1/P ers reqUire accu-
-- rate machining to
make the pieces identical
and interchangeable. You'll
need 12 holder halves or six
pairs, but we suggest you
make extras so you have
some for testing the setups
or In case you damage one
or two while making them.
Project design: Bob Colpelzer.
Clinlon, Tenn.
illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine;
Carson Ode
Project builder: Chuck Hedlund
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 27
28 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993
Join two pattem copies
along this line.
Center hole-\lse to
center board and jig
on your drill press.
Centerline
Use pattem for reference only.
When drilling holes, position
board with the step-and-repeat jig
shown on page 29.
FULL-SIZED
STAR HALF PATTERN
HOLE LOCATIONS
Awinning approach: Build a
continuous lineof marbles as
you advance across the play-
ing field using your own mar-
bles and lhose of other
players. Move a marble
across this "bridge" as far as
possible at each turn.
Concentrate on moving your
marbles rather than on slow-
ing the advance of oppo-
nents' marbles. You cannot
hOld marbles in your triangle
indefinilely to prevent an
opponent from moving in his
or her marbles.
at leasl one
open hole for it and you move
In astraight line. You cannot
jump over two or more adja-
cent marbles or over two or
more adjacent empty holes.
AWinning Strategy
If it has been a few yeafs
since you last played this
game, take lime out for a
rules and strategy refresher.
First, remember that two to
six people may play. To start,
each player selects a home
triangle and fills its holes with
10 identically colored mar
bles. Then, taking tums, each
player moves the marbles,
one at atime, from his or her
home triangle to the one
across the playing field. The
first player completing the
transfer wins.
A tum consists of moving
one marble. You may move
It one hole or jump over one
marble or series of marbles
during atum. You may jump
over your own marbles or
those of opponents. Vou
may move any mar-
ble in any direc-
tionas long as
you have
CHINESE
CHECKERS
Make drilling repetitive holes fast and accurate
Step &Repeat Jig
10
To bore holes left of the board's cen-
ter, remove the 516'-wide spacer, and
use combinations of narrower spacers to step the
board from row to row.
9
To bore the second hole along the centerline,
add a 7,,"'-wide spacer at the right. Always
push the board hard against the fence and spac-
ers before boring the hole. To bore the next hole,
add another 'M!'"-wide spacer on the right side.
Drill the remaining holes along the centerline
by adding another -wide spacer for each hole.
B
uild this simple,
mexpensLVe JIg to
bore the marble
holes in the Chinese
checkers game board
featured onpages
22-23. By changing
the widths of the
spacers, you can
adapt it to drill
repetitive, equally
spaced holes in other
game boards.
Jig dellglW": Chuck HdJnd,
OM .....
lllullritionl; Roxanne LeMoine;
"""" Odo
-r:-; After centering
lIP the board
-- and Jig, we used
the pattern as a guide only
to indicate where the holes
should be bored along the
rows. Let the spacers posi
tlon the board precisely for
drilling each hole.
SuppIieI: W\hick hardboard,
w- or:v."-lhick pIyMJod. !Ax2"
machi'le bolls with nuts and
washfn, Woore-box rOLClll' bl.
10
,

DRILLING JIG

F=7=
r
Notch for drill-press pesl
clearance iI needed
o 11," kerfs
'/2" pIywood:-l 3(,' deep'lor
ha""""'"
. ,....
r.f"" bolt holes
'h," counf&rbore
located 10 lit slots
in your drillpmss
table alter centering
jig on your dill press
12
Tum the board ISO' to place the undrilled
pattern area against the jig's back fence.
Place the 7/16"'_ and the 5,ti'-wide spacers
between the right fence and the right edge of
the board. Loosen the bolts holding the jig, and
center the core-box bit in the center hole.
Center and tighten the nuts. Bore the marble
holes in that section following the same proce-
dures used to form the holes in the first half. _
11
To bore holes in the second row, place a
.4'"-wide hardboard strip between the
board and the back fence. Again, use a combi-
nation of spacers to step !.he board to the left
in order to drill the holes where indicated on the
pattern. Add another .('-wide spacer to step!.he
board away from the fence so the drill bit
aligns over the third row as shown below right.
Now, bore all of the remaining holes in this sec-
tion of the board.
8
With the core-box bit centered over the pat-
tern's center hole, bore a round-bottom hole
lAM deep. Set the quill lock at this depth. (We
substituted a scrap while determining and set-
ting boring depth.)
6
Place the game board on the jig again.
Position the 71t6'-wide and the 516"wide
hardboard spacers at the board's right edge.
Now,lower the drill bit and move the jig (move
the drill-press table, too, if needed) until the bit
centers in the center-locating hole drilled in Step
5. Aftercentering, tighten the machine-bolt nuts.
2
From W-thick hardboard, CUI two ..xIT
strips. Insert these strips into the plywood
grooves. From the same hardboard, cut eight
4x 12'" strips, six 12'" strips, one 7!J!Sx 12'" strip,
and one 5V4X 12" strip.
7
Without moving the jig or board, chuck a
sharp (preferably carbide) core-box
routcr bit into your drill. Otange your drill's
speed setting to operate at me fastest RPM pos-
sible. (We ran our drill press at 2,470 RPM.)
3
Place the jig on your drill-press table with the
hardboard fences at your right and against
the drill-press post. Insert a !/til" bit in the chuck.
Put the game board on the jig, and place the 7,16'-
and 51/j'"-wide hardboard spacers between the
right fence and thegame board's right edge. Push
the game board firmly against the fence and
spacers, and then clamp it to !.he jig.
4
Move the jig to center the drill bit over the
star pattern centerpoint as shown at righr.
Then, clamp !.he jig to the drill-press table.
S
Drill a VI(' hole mrough the paltem center
and the board. (We locked down the drill's
quill to hold the board in place.) To bolt the jig
to me drill-press table, markcenterpoints for two
bolt holes from underneath the table. Drill and
counterbore .511(' holes through the jig where
marked. Insert 2"'-long Vt machine bolts through
the holes and table, and loosely tighten the nuts.
1
Construct the jig shown be/ow from lh" or
."'thick plywood. Saw the IN' kerfs.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS JANUARY 1993 29
You may purchase copies of back issues for $4.95. For ordering
information, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope 10:
Weekend Woodworking Projects
Back Issues Available
Snowman, carved, 18:26-29; 19:28
Spice rack, 1:1417
Spool rack, 29:6-9
Spoon, carved heart, 14:12-15
Squirrel feeder, 29:14-15
Stamp box, whale, 8:12-13jand
note IO:Reader's Comer
Stool, child's puzzle, 25: 16-19
Stool, shaker, 29:26-28
Swing, porch, 16:14-17
Tables:
3-corner, 26:18-21
display, 27:22-25
folding oak, 15:22-23
gateles. 20:20-25; 23:30
Teleidoscope, turned, 12:18-21
Telephone, (turning), 18:22-25; and
23:30
Tone box, musical, 14:6--9
Towel ring, oak, 4: 18-21
Toys and children's gifts:
alpine-ride, 16:10-13; 19:29
armoire, Barbie's, 19:6-11
auto transport, 28:24-30
bank, armorcd-ear, 8:14-17
baseball bat, 14:10-11
baseball organizer, 20: 18-19; and
23:30
bed, Barbie's, 23:12-15
box, crafts supplies, 17:28-30
carousel, musical, 24:10-13
castle, 16:18-23
clown acrobat, 12:12-13; 14:29
cow, rocking, 14:16-19; 16:30
crayon caddy, dog, 4:22-24
dining set, 9:12-15
dinosaur, (pull), 22:1Q..1J
doll cradle, 12:24-28
doll hutch, 30:6-10
dragster, rubber-band, II: 14-17
Ferriswheel,6:12-15;alld
nOle 9:Reader's Corner
fire truck, 20:26-29
grasshopper (pull), 13: 18-21; and
15:30
helicopter (pull), 1:4-7
honeybee(pull),4:14-15
jelly-bean machine, 2:22-24
learning train, 27:26-30
penguin, (push), 2:12-1.5
penguins, dancing, 29:29
plane puzzle, 29:20-25
rocking chair, child's, 10:20-25
toddler town car, 21:20-23
tractor, 3:8-11
wiggle worm (pull), 17:24-27
Tray:
apple, 30:26-29
Christmas tree, 30:14-17
lazy-Susan, 6:8-11
serving, 8:4-7; and /lote IO:Reader's
Corner
Trivet, hearts-and-nowers, 21: 1819
Trunk, Southwest keeping, 25:24-29
Wall plaque, safari-sunsct, 10: 16-19;
and 12:29
Washstand,oak,28:16-19
Whatnot shelf, mirrored, 29:16-19
Whirligig:
farmer, 14:24-28
golfer, 26:26-30
Window valance, 25:20-23
Ornaments, scrollsawed, 30: 18-19
Ornaments, tree, 24:30-32
Outdoor projects:
Cart, party-time patio, 21:6-9; 23:30
Planters-
bench combo, 9:4-7
hanging-garden, 10:4-5; 12:29
oak patio, 27: 1(}.13
patio, 16:24-27
Plant pot cover, pumpkin pot,
22:18-19
Sign, housc, duck-motif, 4:4-7
Sign, lighted-housc, 22:20-23
Painting pointers, 14:30
Picture frame, 21:24-27
Plant stand, indoor, 5:16-19; and
/lole 7:Reader's Comer
Plate rack, 11:1013; 13:29
Postcards, wooden, 30:30
Puzzles:
plane puzzle, 29:20-25
pussycat, 20:14-17
Santa, 24:26-27
United States map, 15:14-17
Quilt:
hanger, heirloom, 7:12-15
wooden (hanging) 11:6-9
Rocking horse, decorative, 3:14-17
Rush seating made easy, 10:26; 12:29
Salad server, hands-on, 21:16-17
Salt and pepper shakers, 4:8-9; 15:30
Shadow boxes:
barn, 21:28-30
showcase, 12:8-11
Shelf, shelves:
adjustable book, 13:6-9
comer showcase, 15:24-29; 18:30
cup and saucer, 18:18-21
ladder, 24:14-17
safari,26:6-9
Sign,hospitality,26:16-17
Sleigh, decorative, 1:10-13; and
note 5:Reader's Comer
Edge-joining boards-A primer, 12:30
Finishes, water-based, 19:29
Flower wagon, 28:20-23
Footstool,fancy,5:811;and
/lolc 8:Reader's Comer
Games:
dart cabinet, 23:16-19
Maneala, 9:8-11
Hourglass, 10:6-7; 15:30
Intarsia, cat, 17:20-25; 19:28
Lamps or lanterns:
art deco, 8:8-11
cherry candle, 15:10-13
colonial-style, 13:14-17; 14:29
harbor light, 21:10-15
Lap desk, cherry, 28:6-11
Lath wall hanging, rocking horse,
27:14-17
Magnets, carved fruit, 7:22-24
Message center, oak, 2:16-19
Mirrors:
cypress tree, 13:2225; 16:30
dresser-top, 4:10-13
oak tavern, 17:6-9
with matching shelf, 19:18-23
Mission-style furniture:
bookcasc, 7:8-11
clock, oak wall 27:18-21
coffee table, 22:6-9
library table, 29:10-13
telephone table, 19:12-15
Money clip, 28:12-13
Mortar and pestle, 13:26-28
Muffin stand, 25:6-9
Music box, piano, 6:20-24
Nameplate, executive, 3: 12-13
Napkin holder, pig, 26: 14-15
Napkin rings, 2:20-21
Nativity, carved intarsia, 30: 11-13
Night-light, clown, 9:22-24
Noah's ark, over-the-door, 23:6-9
Noel, carved, 18:6-7
Ornaments, lawn, 24:18-19
Back Issues
Weekend Woodworking Projects
P.O. Box 9266
Des Moines, IA 50306-9266
Phone 800/572-9350 for credit-card orders_
WEEKEND WOODWORKING
PROJECTS
Airplane, WW II model, 18:12-17
Album, Book of Memories, 17:10-13
Baskets:
bandsawed, 5:12-15j 23:30
country, 7:20-21
Bird feeder, 4:16-17
Bird feeder, hummingbird, 27:6-9
Birdhouse, bam, 9:16-19
Birdhouse, Right School, 26:10-13
Biscuit cutter, turned, 8:22-24; and
/lote 11:Reader's Corner
Blocks, Christmas, 12:6-7
Bookends:
handsaw, 7:16-19
pineapple, 11:26-28
Bookshelf, teddy bear, 3:18-21
Bowls:
domed (turning), 3:21-24
stack-laminated, 23:26-29
Boxes:
Acorn treasure, 5:22-24
Bandsawed, hollow-log, 6:16-19
Business card, 22:28-30
Contoured-keepsake, 15:6-9
Heron-trinket, 25:13-15
Jewelry--
cherry, 22:24-27
earring cabinet, 30:20-25
exotic wood, 12:14-17
rose-covered, 2:4-7
Key keeper, 17:14-17
Recipe, book rack, 26:22-25
Recipe, tambour, 19:24-27
Sweetheart keepsake, 19:16-17
Butter churn, 10: 12-15
cabinet, pine wall, 16:6-9
candle:
holder, holiday, 12:22-23
holder, Scandinavian, 6:4-5
sconce, 23:10-11
sconce, classic wall, 1:18-21
carousel, scrollsawed, 9:20-21
casserole scrver, 5:20-21; and
note 8:Readcr's Comer
Centerpiece, eggs & bow), 11:22-25
Chairs:
Adirondack,5:4-7jund
note 7:Reader's Corner
scoop, 20:12-13; 23:30
two-pan patio, 14:20-23
Clocks:
arched-top, 2:8-11
blue-heron wall, 11:18-21
country, 20:6-11; 23:30
mantel, 18:8-11
Mission oak, 27: 18-21
pocket watch, 1:22-24;and
note 5:Reader's Comer
tambour, 24:6-9
Clothes hangers, cedar, 25: 10-12
Clothes rack, wall, 10:8-11
Clothes tree, 15:18-21
Coaster set, contemporary, 8:18-21;
and note II:Reader's Comer
Coatrack, sportsman's, 3:4-7
Cutting boards:
crumb-box, 16:28-29
fish, 13:10-13
French bread, 28:14-15
laminated, 1:8-9
Desk set, laminated, 23:20-25
Door harp, seagull-at-sunset, 6:6-7
30 WEEKEND WOODWORKlNG PROJECI'S JANUARY 1993