Textile Finishing Different Types of Mechanical Finishes For Textiles
Textile Finishing Different Types of Mechanical Finishes For Textiles
Textile Finishing Different Types of Mechanical Finishes For Textiles
1. Calendering
A simple device which simulates the effects of calendaring is the domestic iron. Hot ironing
makes garment smooth flat by removing its crinkles and creases. Besides making the fabrics free
from creases by calendaring,
It reduces the yarn slippage as well as thickness of the fabric by varying the calendaring
operation.
The need of calendaring arises mainly because the fabric when it is wet processed and dried, is in
the least lustrous state and its surface is not smooth because of presence of highly crimped and
wavy threads. To meet this need the fabric is passed between the rollers or bawls of a machine
termed Calender and this mechanical process is called calendering.
Chasing Calender: In this calender five bawls are used. All bawls run at a same speed. This
operation of chasing produces a thready or linen-like appearance together with a soft fell.
Embossing Calender: In embossing calender fine lines are embossed on the cloth. Embossing
brings about a high degree of luster on the cloth, makes it smooth and flattens it. Damask effect
can also be produced on cotton cloth by this process, but effect of embossing is temporary.
2. Sanforising
A method of producing unshrinkable cotton fabric is to give it a thorough wash in a washing
machine so as to allow it to shrink freely and then dry and finish it without stretching. This
method however is not reliable and not suitable for commercial production.
3. Raising
Raising is a process of lifting of a layer of fibres from the surface of the fabric so as to form a
hairy surface or pile. The process imparts a warm and soft handle to both on the woven and
knitted fabrics; in fact, the formation of a pile on the fabric can make it exceptionally soft. The
pile also includes a large amount of air and since air is a bad conductor of the heat, the raised
fabrics feel vary warm as well as soft.
In the early days, only cotton and woolen fabrics were raised, but now besides these fabrics,
man-made fibre fabrics also raised. If the fabric contains a woven or coloured pattern, the weave
and pattern get subdued on raising and various colour blends.
It is easier to raise the fabric in the wet state than in dry state. Therefore, moist raising is most
widely adopted.
4. Napping
In napping the surface of the cloth is raised, cut even and smoothed by a napping machine known
as planetary napper.
5. Shearing
Shearing means removing or taking off fibre ends by cutting. It is carried out to cut fibres of
random length to produce a level pile and prevent pilling in case of synthetic fibres by resulting
of the height of the fibres particularly to produce clean staple fibre fabrics. Napped fabrics are
mostly sheared.
Knitted fabrics are sheared on a machine having a single cutting head per unit where in case of
woven fabrics multiple sheared are used. The pile heights are regulated by adjusting the distance
between the cloth rest and rotary blade.
6. Sueding
When a vary mild effect of raising is required a special type of machine called sueding machine
is used. This consists of a vertical set of small diameter rotating rollers covered with an abrasive
surface such as sand paper or emery cloth. There is a rubber covered pressure roll which presses
the fabric against the abrasive covered cylinder. The abrasion of fabric surface takes place when
the fabric is open width presses between the pressure roller and abrasive covered cylinder. A vary
sort pile thus raised according to the pressure of the fabric against these rollers which rotate in a
direction of opposite to that of the fabric.