Copyright & Disclaimer

Copyright Notice:
This e-book is offered for free to the general public. You may distribute it in its original
format (PDF), provided that the contents are not changed in any way and you do not
claim to be the author.
In addition, the information contained in this report may not be used elsewhere without
written permission from its authors. Any persons or entities found in violation of
infringing the copyright of this report will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.
This e-book is for informational purposes only and its authors do not earn any profit
from its distribution. NERF is a registered trademark of Kenner Toys, which is an
affiliate of Hasbro, Inc. The authors of this e-book are not affiliated with the
aforementioned parties and do not intend to infringe upon any copyright, trademark, or
patent.
Disclaimer:
Individual results may vary. Moddingblasters is a hobby of ours, and in no way do we
claim to be experts on the subject. Weve written this e-book for other enthusiasts who
want to accomplish what we have with our blasters. However, due to legal reasons,
we're unable to guarantee any results and the content in this e-book should not be
considered professional advice.
The use of this information and recommended products should be based on your own
due diligence. You agree not to hold the authors and/or distributors of this e-book liable
for any success or failure of your endeavors that are directly or indirectly related to the
purchase and use of our information, recommended products and services.

Table of Contents

Introduction............................................................... 1
Opening the Blaster ................................................. 2
Removing the Locks ................................................. 8
Air Restrictor Removal ........................................... 10
Modifying the Plunger O-Ring ................................ 17
Building a Sealed Breech ....................................... 22

Chapter 1: Introduction
What is a Mod?
A modification or mod is anything you do to your blaster that changes its looks, form,
or functionality. Doing a custom paint job, adding your own accessories and parts, and
working on the internals to increase power are all considered mods.
Why Mod?
There is a plethora of reasons to mod a blaster:

A modded blaster is a great addition to a costume.

A blaster that you mod becomes your own work of art.
A modded blaster can shoot further and with more intensity compared to FOF
(fresh out of factory) blasters. It can give you the upper hand in your next battle.
Cosmetic modding, when done right, yields stunning results. A humble foam
blaster can become anything from a dystopian steampunk gun to a clean cut
weapon right out of science fiction. They can even mimic weapons out of video
games and movies.

Regardless of the reason, modding is an incredibly fun hobby that creates custom
works of art out of average foam blasters.
Dangers of Modding
If performed incorrectly, modifications can reduce performance or render the blaster
inoperable. When performing even basic mods, there is always a risk of losing parts,
cracking plastic, or not being able to re-assemble the blaster. Some of the more
common blasters' internal pictures can be found online, and it is worthwhile to use these
as references.
When performing cosmetic mods, care must be taken in order to not lock up any moving
parts. Without a few layers of a hard clear coat, paint can gum up areas where plastic
slides on plastic. For more complex mods like barrel replacement and fabrication of
sealed breech, you must take into consideration the volume of the plunger tube in
relation to the barrel length, and spring power must also be increased. So make sure
you know what you are getting yourself into before you start a mod.

1|Page

Chapter 2: Opening the Blaster

It is important to be familiar with your blasters internal structure in order to carry out any
performance related mods. Be sure to remember what size screws go where and make
sure no small springs shoot out when the blaster is opened. The blaster should be
unloaded with the mainspring relaxed. Try to avoid opening the blaster when it is in the
cocked position.
Supplies Needed:

#1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

Small Flat Head Screwdriver

Step 1:
Set Blaster on a clear workspace with the screws facing you.

2|Page

Step 2:
Remove screws using the Phillips head screwdriver. Be sure to make note of each
screw's placement, because sizes differ. It is helpful to place the screws on the table
in their original positions relevant to an outline of the blaster.

Note that the two screw locations circled in blue are hidden under the slide of the
blaster, and must be removed with the handle slightly pulled back (but not in the cocked
position). There are a total of 15 screws.

3|Page

Step 3:
Gently remove the rear cap of the blaster. Be sure you do not accidentally leave your
blaster in cocked position, because the spring could shoot out and cause injury.

4|Page

Step 4:
At this point, the blaster should easily separate into two halves. If the shell of your
blaster seems to be sticking, double check to make sure that all of the screws have
been removed. If the issue continues, use a flat head screwdriver and gently pry around
the seam until the blaster separates.

5|Page

Step 5:
Set the top half aside, and you should have something that looks like this:

6|Page

TIP: Make sure you do not lose the accessory tooth, which is located inside of the
cocking handle.

7|Page

Chapter 3: Removing the Locks

Locks allow you to half-cock your blaster, and are there to ensure that the slide is
racked to the most rearward position before trigger is pulled. Many modders prefer to
remove these locks in order to control blaster function precisely to their liking. Because
most blasters are rated safe for children as young as 6 years old, the locks are
designed with them in mind. If you are mature enough to be attempting to mod your
blaster, odds are you do not need the locks. However, if you prefer, they can be left in
the blaster.
Supplies Needed:

None

Step 1:
Locate locks.

8|Page

Step 2:
Gently work the locks out of their slots. Be careful not to lose the magazine lock spring
or trigger spring.

The locks can be thrown away at this point, but it's a good idea to hold onto the springs
because they can be used as replacement trigger lock springs in the event that the
original spring becomes lost or damaged.

9|Page

Chapter 4: Air Restrictor Removal

The air restrictor (AR) slows down the flow of air from the plunger to the dart. This
device serves to reduce the blaster's power and prevent the plunger from slamming into
the plunger tubing at full speed. It also drastically reduces the noise generated during
firing.
Supplies Needed:

Hammer (optional)

Nail or small screwdriver or punch

Drill

Drill bit that's slightly less than half an inch in diameter. In the following pictures,
we show a 15/32 In. and a 7/16 In. drill bit.

Gloves and safety glasses

Step 1:
Remove the bolt sled and plunger from the blaster. Unpin the plunger assembly from
the bolt sled using a nail, small screwdriver, or punch. You can do this by inserting the
nail, screwdriver, or punch into the hole that houses the retention pin and applying
pressure.

10 | P a g e

11 | P a g e

This is what your breech should look like before removing the AR:

12 | P a g e

Step 2:
Use gloves to hold the plunger tube and drill from the end that has the O-ring. It will take
considerable pressure to get the bit to catch the plastic. Wearing a glove will prevent
you from suffering a burn on your hand, should the bit catch the tubing and start to spin.

13 | P a g e

14 | P a g e

After your drill out the AR, run the bit through the breech a few times to knock off any
remaining plastic. When you are finished it should look like this:

15 | P a g e

Note: Be careful not to damage the sidewalls of the breech as you drill.

16 | P a g e

Chapter 5: Modifying the Plunger O-Ring

The O-ring seal on the plunger tubing makes sure that the air compressed by the
plunger assembly and spring does not leak out during compression. Some blasters
come with an excellent O-ring seal, while others come with undersized or loose O-rings.
Improving this seal is an easy mod that can add a few extra feet to your shots.
Supplies needed:
Method 1

Small flat head screwdriver

O-ring safe lubricant such as lithium grease or silicon based lubricant

Teflon tape or electrical tape

Caution: Make sure whatever lubricant you use is safe for rubber O-rings. Lubricants
like WD-40 will melt the rubber over time and destroy the O-ring. Lubricants like gun oil
can penetrate the O-ring, causing it to swell. This will cause the plunger to lock up
inside of the plunger tubing, rendering the blaster inoperable until the O-ring is replaced.

17 | P a g e

Step 1:
Remove the plunger from the plunger body.

18 | P a g e

Step 2:
Gently pry the O-ring out of its groove with a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to
damage the O-ring.

Step 3:
Wrap a thin layer of tape around the O-ring lip in order to create a better air seal. You
must take care not to use too much tape because it will create more pressure between
the O-ring and the wall of the plunger, resulting in greater resistance against the spring.
When done correctly, the plunger tubing should slide easily back into the plunger.

19 | P a g e

20 | P a g e

Make sure to wash off any factory lubrication before applying the tape, because it will
not stick otherwise. If using Teflon tape, about 3-5 layers can be applied. Be sure to pull
it tight and to trim off any excess tape that may have stretched over the airway. If using
electrical tape, only 1-2 layers are needed. Any more than that and the plunger tubing
will have a hard time fitting back into the plunger.

21 | P a g e

Chapter 6: Building a Sealed Breech

A sealed breech mod allows you to use a tighter barrel and changes your blaster's
operation from open bolt to closed bolt. Only blasters with a direct plunger have enough
air volume to utilize a closed bolt system.
Note: For best results, use an Orange Mod Works 5KG+ spring.
Supplies Needed:

Safety Glasses
Gloves
Dremel with metal cutting wheel
Epoxy
Metal File
Pipe Cutter
Sandpaper
Knife
Heat Gun (optional)
Permanent Marker
Tape (masking, duct, or electrical)
1/2 brass tubing
17/32 brass tubing
9/16 brass tubing
19/32 brass tubing

22 | P a g e

Step 1:
Use the pipe cutter to cut your stock breech along the middle seam.

23 | P a g e

Step 2:
Cut a 1 long piece of the brass, and 1 long pieces of the 17/32 and 9/16 brass.

Step 3:
Mark off on the brass. Then heat it with the heat gun and press it into the front of
the rear half of your stock breech. It may take multiple re-heatings to accomplish this.
Once it is in place, slip the 17/32 brass over the brass followed by the 9/16 brass.

24 | P a g e

25 | P a g e

Step 4:
Take the 19/32 brass tube and cut a 5 long piece. Mark off 2. From that mark
draw a 3 long rectangle extending forward. This long nose will ride along the top of
your barrel during use and will act as a guide for your darts. Without this, your blaster
will jam.

Step 5:
Cut out the rectangle.

26 | P a g e

27 | P a g e

Step 6:
Cut the lower half of the front of your stock breech off.

Step 7:
Use the heat gun to soften the plastic and fit it over the piece of 19/32 brass you cut in
the previous step. Be extremely careful when you do this. A heat gun can reduce
your breech to a squishy lump of plastic in no time. You only get one chance to
do this right. Take it slow. You will have to heat the breech and then press it onto the
brass. You may have to do this 20-30 times before it is the correct shape. Next, wrap
sandpaper around the 19/32 brass and sand the breech down for a perfect fit.

28 | P a g e

29 | P a g e

30 | P a g e

31 | P a g e

Step 8:
Use the cutting wheel on your dremel to form the front of the 19/32 brass to fit the
plastic breech.

32 | P a g e

33 | P a g e

Step 9:
Scuff the outside of all of the brass pieces you have been working with up until now in
preparation for gluing. At this point, it is also a good idea to wash all the parts you plan
to glue to get rid of any oils that may be present.

34 | P a g e

35 | P a g e

Step 10:
Epoxy everything together. I did this with three separate batches of epoxy. Do not try
and mix one big batch and try to glue everything in one go. Take your time. I would also
recommend that you use a scrap piece of cardboard to protect your work area from any
epoxy spills.

36 | P a g e

37 | P a g e

With the front half of the breech you are going to have to apply pressure until the epoxy
sets. Use both hands to keep the brass and the plastic pressed together for at least 10
minutes before setting them aside to dry.
Step 11:
As the two halves of your breech are drying, start working on the barrel. For this barrel I
used 6 of the 9/16 brass.

Take your pipe cutter and press some tightening rings into the back of your barrel. This
will prevent your darts from falling out and will allow pressure to build behind the dart. I
would recommend that you try some test rings on a scrap piece of brass to practice not
cutting all the way through.

38 | P a g e

39 | P a g e

Step 12:
Use the small grinding bit for your dremel and widen the back of your barrel slightly.
This will help the darts load more smoothly and should reduce jamming.

40 | P a g e

You can use the same grinding bit to clean up the front of your barrel as well.
Step 13:
Dry fit the two halves of your breech together to make sure that the overall length from
the plastic tip to the bottom where the o-ring goes is 5 1/8. Then take the two halves of
your breech and epoxy them together.

41 | P a g e

42 | P a g e

43 | P a g e

Step 14:
Use the file, sandpaper, or dremel and sand down the plastic at the forward half of your
breech so it fits inside the plunger body.

Step 15:
Test fit! You may find areas at the front of your breech where more plastic needs to be
shaved down for smooth priming. Also, dont forget to remove the dart tooth from your
blaster.

44 | P a g e

45 | P a g e

46 | P a g e

You want the lip of your barrel to protrude no more than . Any more than that and it
will interfere with the darts in your magazine.

47 | P a g e

Step 15:
Mark how far up on your barrel the brass nose portion of your breech reaches when it is
in battery.

You want to make sure that you do not apply tape below this line, because it could
cause your breech to bend during use.
Step 16:
Tape around the barrel above the line you marked. Once there is enough tape for a
good friction fit, nest your barrel with the barrel extension included with your Retaliator.

48 | P a g e

49 | P a g e

Double check that enough of the brass protrudes into the magazine well for a good seal.

50 | P a g e

Step 17:
Now assemble your blaster and use the stock spring to test it out. At this point, you may
need to make minor adjustments to get it to work the way you want. Don't put all of your
screws back in just yet.

51 | P a g e

52 | P a g e

53 | P a g e

Once everything is working smoothly and you have tested your breech with the stock
spring, install an Orange Mod Works 5KG+ spring for maximum performance.

54 | P a g e

55 | P a g e

56 | P a g e