Report On Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited

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Faculty of Engineering

Department of Textile Engineering


Report On
Industrial Attachment
At

Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.


Course Title: Industrial Attachment
Course Code: TE-431
Submitted By

Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan


ID: 132-23-3597

Supervised By

Mohammad Abdul Baset

Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering

Daffodil International University

This Report Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Bachelor of Science
in Textile Engineering

Advance in Apparel Manufacturing Technology

Duration Time: 10th January 2017 to 10th March 2017

Daffodil International University


DECLARATION

I hereby declare that, this report has been done under the supervision of Mohammed Abdul
Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University. I
also declare that neither this internship report nor any part of this internship report has been
submitted elsewhere for award of any degree.

Submitted by:

Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan


ID: 132-23-3597
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University

This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidate is correct to the best of my
knowledge.

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LETTER OF APPROVAL
3 May, 2017
To
The Head
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
102, Shukrabad, Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207

Subject: Approval of Industrial Attachment Report of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Program

Dear Sir,
I am just writing to let you know that this report titled as Industrial Attachment has been
prepared by the student bearing ID: 132-23-3597 is completed for final evaluation. The whole
report is prepared based on the factory data with required belongings. The student was directly
involved in his industrial attachment activities and the report become vital to spark of many
valuable information for the readers.
Therefore it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this report and consider it for final
evaluation.

Yours Sincerely

Mohammad Abdul Baset


Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Faculty of Engineering
Daffodil International University

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Industrial training is a practical oriented work in a running textile industry where I have get the
chance to see the different operation involved in production process practically. A number of
people have made significant contributes in preparing this report, their advices, suggestions and
guidance helped me a lot. First of all my gratefulness goes to almighty Allah to give me strength
and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. I would like to give special thanks
to Mohammad Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of TE, Daffodil International
University, Dhaka. Deep Knowledge & keen interest of my supervisor in the field of influenced
me to carry out this report. His endless patience, scholarly guidance, continual encouragement,
constant and energetic supervision, constructive criticism, valuable advice, reading many inferior
drafts and correcting them at all stage have made it possible to complete this report. I would like
to give thanks to Mr. Golam Kibriya, Dyeing DGM, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. located at
Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh for allowing me to
complete my fifty days industrial training in this factory and also for his useful guidance
throughout the course. I want to thank Dr. Mahbubul Haque, Professor and Head, Department
of Textile Engineering in DIU for his kind help to finish our report and also to other faculty
member and the staff of TE department of Daffodil International University. We have gratitude
the Chairman, Managing directors, General Manager, Production manager, merchandising
manager, Administration manager who gave me scope for doing industrial attachment in the
factory as well as for giving scope to work in their respective section. I would like to thank my
entire course mate in Daffodil International University, who took part in this discuss while
completing the course work. At last but not the least, I like to acknowledge my parents for their
approval, support & love and all my friends for their help & support to complete the report.

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DEDICATION

At first I want to dedicate this Industrial Training Report to almighty Allah


(ALHAMDULILLAH) for giving me the opportunity to prove myself. Without his help nothing
would be possible.

Then I want to dedicate this report to Prophet Mohammad (SM).

I also want to dedicate this report to my honorable teachers of Daffodil International University
and all of the people who have helped me in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. to complete this report.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Content Page No.
DECLARATION ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ii
LETTER OF APPROVAL ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT------------------------------------------------------------------------------ iv
DEDICATION --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- v
TABLE OF CONTENTS ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- vi

Chapter-1 : Executive Summary----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1


Executive Summary --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2

Chapter-2 : Information About Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------------------- 3


2.1 Introduction -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
2.2 Company Profile -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
2.3 General Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
2.4 Personnel Status --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
2.5 Production Information ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8
2.6 Present Customers & Business ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
2.7 Product Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
2.8 Equipments -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
2.9 Concern of Crony Group ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
2.10 Achievement & Certification --------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
2.11 Supporting Department ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11

Chapter-3 : Details Of Attachment ------------------------------------------------------------------- 12


3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------ 13
3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 13
3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) --------------------------------- 14
3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan --------------------------------------------------------------------- 15

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3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------- 16
3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------- 18
3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics ------------------------------------------- 18
3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) -------------------- 19
3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section -------------------------------------------------------- 20
3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd) ----------------- 21
3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section ---------------------------------------------------- 22
3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22
3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control ------------------------------- 23
3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------- 24
3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection --------------------------------------------- 24
3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection --------------------------- 25
3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section ------------------------------------------ 25
3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection ------------------------------ 26
3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals -------------------------------------------------------------- 27
3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section ----------------------- 27
3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan ------------------------------------------------------------ 29
3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30
3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory -------------------------------------------------------- 30
3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section -------------------------- 30
3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory ------------------------------------------------------------- 31
3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab -------------------------------------------------------------------- 31
3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab --------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory ---------------------------------------------------- 35
3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory ----------------------------------- 36
3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric ------------------------------------- 36
3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test ------------------------------------------------------------------ 36
3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test ---------------------------------------------- 37
3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality) ---------------------------------------- 37

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3.4.6.4 Pilling Test ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
3.4.6.5 GSM Test ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------ 39
3.5.1 Batching Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39
3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 39
3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section ----------------------------------------------------- 39
3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1 ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 40
3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2 ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 40
3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines --------------------------------------------------------- 40
3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------- 40
3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production ---------------------------------------------------- 42
3.5.3.1 pH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
3.5.3.2 Temperature -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
3.5.3.3 Time ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------- 43
3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics --------------------------------------------------------- 43
3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics ------------------------------------- 44
3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production ----------------------------------- 45
3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 48
3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 49
3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------ 50
3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------- 50
3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------- 51
3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section --------------------------------------------- 51
3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 52
3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1 ---------------------------------------------------------------- 54
3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2 ---------------------------------------------------------------- 55

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3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55
3.6.3.7 Dryer ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55
3.6.3.8 Calender Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56
3.6.3.9 Tube Tex ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 57
3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 58
3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------- 58
3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section ------------------------------------------------ 59
3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 59
3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection -------------------------------------------------- 59
3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------------------------- 60
3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section -------------------------------------------------------- 60
3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section ----------------------------------------- 60
3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section -------------------------------------------------------------------- 61
3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section ------------------------------------------------------------- 61
3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------- 62
3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section -------------------------------------------------------------------- 62
3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------- 62
3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2) ---------------------------------------------- 63
3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 63
3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------- 64
3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine --------------------------------------------------------- 64
3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 64
3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 64
3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 65
3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2) ------------------------------------------------------- 65
3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 66
3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------ 67
3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section ---------------------------------------------- 67
3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------- 67

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3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings ----------------------------------------- 68
3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section ---------------------------------------------------------- 68
3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section ----------------------------------------------------------- 68
3.9.6 Foil Printing Process ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 69
3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section ----------------------------------------------------------------- 69
3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan --------------------------------------------------------------------- 70
3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------ 71
3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types -------------------------------------------------------------------- 71
3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine --------------------------------------------------------- 71
3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section ---------------------------------------------------- 72
3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section -------------------------------------------------------- 72
3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section ----------------------------------------------------------- 73
3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan --------------------------------------------------------------- 73
3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------- 74
3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------- 74
3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------- 75
3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section -------------------------------------- 78
3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------------------------------- 80
3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 80
3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 80
3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section ---------------------------------------------------------- 80
3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section ---------------------------------------------------------------- 81
3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 81
3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section -------------------------------------------------------------- 82
3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section ------------------------------------------------------- 82
3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan --------------------------------------------------- 83
3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------- 84
3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section -------------------------------------------------------- 84
3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section ---------------------------------------- 84

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3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------------------------- 85
3.13.1 H&M QC Section -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 85
3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC ---------------------------------------------------- 85
3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC ------------------------------------------------ 85
3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC -------------------------------------------------------- 85
3.13.2 MGB QC Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 88
3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------------- 88
3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 88
3.14.2 Functions of IE Section -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 89
3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 90
3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------- 90
3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------- 90
3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section ---------------------------------------------- 91
3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser ----------------------------------------------------------- 92
3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section ------------------------------------------------------- 92
3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------------------------- 93
3.17.1 Recruiment ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 93
3.17.2 Payroll ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 93
3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section -------------------------------------------------------- 93
3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------ 93
3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------ 94
3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------------------------- 95
3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section -------------------------------------------------------------- 95
3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section ------------------------------------------------------- 96
3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------- 96
3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd -------------------------------------------------------- 97
3.21.1 Boiler ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 97
3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 97
3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 97

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3.21.2 Machines Available in Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------ 98
3.21.3 Working Principal Of Boiler Machine -------------------------------------------------------- 99

Chapter-4 : Impact Of Internship ------------------------------------------------------------------ 100


4.1 Knitting section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.2 Dyeing chemicals store section . ------------------------------------------------------------------ 101
4.3 Dyeing lab section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.4 Dyeing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.5 Dyeing finishing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.6 CAD Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.7 Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.8 Printing & Embroidery Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 102
4.9 Sewing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.10 Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.11 Sample & Accesories Section ------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.12 Store section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.13 IE Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 104
4.14 QC Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.15 Admin and compliance Section ----------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.16 HR Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.17 ETP Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105
4.18 Utility Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105

Chapter-5 : Conclusion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 106


Conclusion ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 107

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CHAPTER-1
Executive Summary

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Executive Summary:

Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Though
incorporated in the year 1994 as a private limited company it came into existence in late
December 1995. The mill being established at Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj,
aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of
knit garments.Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a
100% export oriented composite knit garment industry.It possesses all the latest machineries
from the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The
entire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same
roof. The total plant is located in an eighteen storied building in an area of more than 6,50,000
square feet (Approx). The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and
experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure the
Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. They can produce international
standard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Abanti Colour Tex Ltd always keeps
pace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in
such a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market
fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer.

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CHAPTER-2
Information about Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.

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2.1 Introduction:

By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowedge in the practical
field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association
with the theoretical knowledge.

The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the
poerformer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic
education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite
all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern
machinery, skillness about various operation stages.

It also provides us sufficiant practical knowledge about production management, produstivity


evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance
of machinery, production planning and control, production cost analysis and their operation
techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical
knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is
based on industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inpiration to take self-responsibility.

At Abanti Colour Tex Ltd, cutting-edge technologies ,erge seamlessly with human ingenuity and
deep seat recommmitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. The
ACTL has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The
goal of ACTL is become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from
Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human
resources.

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2.2 Company Profile:

Figure 2.2 : Front Side View of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.

Mission:
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global market as a
leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customer.

Vision:
To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market.
To satisfy the valued customers, meeting their expectation by providing quality products and
services on time and offering them the best value in terms of quality, price, environment and
other ethical practices.
To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain optimum level of
productivity.
To maintain the technology command in the factory.
To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.

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2.3 General Information:

Factory Name:ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD

Address:PLOT # S.A-646, Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar,Fatullah, Narayangonj, Bangladesh.

Phone, Fax, E-Mail:


PHONE: 880-2-7672526, 7671073,7672404

FAX: 880-2-7671057

E-MAIL: [email protected]; [email protected]

Year of Establishment: 1994

Type of Company: Private Limited

Ownership: Crony Group

Ownership Type: Private

Number Of Building: 03 Buildings

Number Of Stories:10 Stories 02 Building & 06 Stories One Building

Nearest Airport: Hazrat Shahjalal International Air Port About 25 Km

Factory Land Area:392674 Sq. Ft.

Corporate Office:
House # 365/4,Road # 06(West), Baridhara DOHS, Dhaka- 1206, Bangladesh.

PHONE : 880-2-8415126-27

FAX: 880-2-8412560

E- MAIL: [email protected]

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Management:
Chairman: Hosne Ara Nila

Managing Director: A.H. Aslam Sunny

General Manager: Nizam Uddin Mandal

2.4 Personnel Status:


Total Employee: 6500 (Approximately)
Female: 2600

Male: 3900

Production Development: 46

Sewing:2854

Cutting: 426

Finishing:837

Inspection:438

Sample,Pattern & Embroidery:703

Technical & Maintenance:60

Office Staff & Others:200

Managerial Offices:50

Dyeing, Knitting, Store:886

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2.5 Production Information:
Total Floor Area:392674 Sq. Ft.

Total Production Employees:6000


Female: 2400

Male: 3600

Main Buyer: Mango (Spain), Kiabi (France), Mgb (United Kingdom), Tom-Tailor
(Germany), H& M (Sweden), Okaidi (France)& So On.

Market / Destinations:Europe

Yearly Turn Over:70 Million Us $

Total Floor:19th Floor

Total Line:58 Lines

Total Production/Month:

Knitting: 35 Ton/day

Dyeing: 30 Ton/day

Printing: 120000 pcs/day

Embroidery: 110 Head

Garments: 135000 pcs/day

Annual Product Capacity:35,00,000 Dozen

Item Of Products:All Kind Of Knit Item

Q.A. Level Standerd:1.5 & 2.5

Fabric Affiliation:Yes

Pattern Making Ability:Yes

Product Lead Time:Maximum 90 Days & Minimum - 30 Days

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Sample Room Facility:Yes

In House Testing Lab: Yes

In House Embroidery:Yes

Capacity:40,000 Pcs.

2.6 Present Customers & Business:


Kiabi 25% Of Business

Mgb 20% Of Business

Tom Tailor 20% Of Business

H&M 12% Of Business

Mangoo 13% Of Business

Rewe / Okaidi-Obaibi / Gemo / Aldi / Others 10% Of Business

Figure 2.6 : Main Buyers of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.

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2.7 Product Information:
Product Type %

T-Shirt 50%

Polo Shirt 25%

Tank Top 10%

Knitted Jacket 5%

Legging 5%

Others 5%

2.8 Equipments:

List all in-house Machines for Knitting, Dyeing, Sewing & fabric inspection:

Section Quantity
Knitting 75 Set

Dyeing 40 Set

Sewing 1600 Set

Cutting 30 Set

Embroidery 187 Head

Printing 22 Table

Printing (Auto M/C) 2 Set

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2.9 Concern of Crony Group:
1. Crony Apparels Ltd.
2. Crony Fashion Ltd.
3. Crony Knitwear Ltd.
4. Crony Tex Sweater Ltd.
5. S. S. Cotton Fabrics Ltd.
6. Crony Printing & Embroidery Ltd.
7. BD Packing Ltd
8. Crony Tex Sourcing Ltd.

2.10 Achievement & Certification:


1. ISO 9001:2008 (QMS)
2. BSCI
3. SEDEX
4. OE 100 & OE Blended
5. Oeko-Tex
6. International Star for Leadership in Quality Award
(Gold Category)
7. Fair-trade

2.11 Supporting Department:


Personnel Administration
Procurement
Marketing
HRD
Finance &Accounting
MIS (Management Information System)
Work Study
Complience & Safety

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CHAPTER-3
Details of Attachment

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3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 75 set knitting machines available & average production is
35 ton/day.In this section, firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from the merchandiser
as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
Then production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the
production will be running. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they
take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity,
maintenance complexity, etc. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts
required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM. Supervisor checks daily production
regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time. Operators operate machine
in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric
fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he
informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. After required production and final
inspection in 4-point system, they deliver in dyeing section. As a short description of knitting it
can be said that knitting is the most popular technique of fabric formation by inter-looping one or
one set of yarns. Knitted fabric can be classified into two main categories such as warp knitted
fabric and weft knitted fabric. Due to higher production, lower cost and easy installment demand
of weft knitted fabric is increasing day by day. For the weft knitted fabric production, two main
knitting machines are used here: (i) Flat Bed Knitting Machine & (ii) Circular Knitting Machine.
On the basis of knitted stitches per minute against the capital cost of the machine, circular
garment-length machines are generally more productive than flat bed machines for cut and sew
knitwear. There are four weft knitted structure named single jersey, rib, interlock and purl. It is
possible to produce all of these knit fabrics by circular machine after some changes. Circular
machines are mainly single cylinder type for single jersey fabric, cylinder and dial type for rib
and interlock fabrics and double cylinder types for purl fabrics. Single jersey is the simplest
structure among four basic wefts knitted structure. Production of knitted structure is totally
mathematical based & it depends on various factors. Machine gauge is one of the important
factors among them. It is very important for the knitter to calculate the productivity of a machine
in order to be able to schedule production and specify the delivery dates to the customer.

3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section:

Knitting section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two main section:

(i) Fabric Knitting Section


(ii) Fabric Inspection Section

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3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) :

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3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.1.3 : Knitting Unit-2 Layout

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3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
M/C No: 01-12 M/C No: 13 -16
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 30
Needle: 3168

M/C No : 17 M/C No : 18
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 26 Cylinder Dia: 36
Needle: 1944 Needle: 2712

M/C No : 19 M/C No : 20-21


M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 24 Cylinder Dia: 30

M/C No : 22 M/C No : 23
M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 25 Cylinder Dia: 20
Neddle:1872

M/C No : 24 M/C No : 25
M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Cam Box: 82 Cam Box: 90
Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 22

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M/C No : 26 M/C No : 27
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 18 Cam Box: 82
Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 20
Needle: 2356

M/C No : 28 M/C No : 29
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 28 Gauge: 28
Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia: 30
Needle: 2640 Needle: 2640

M/C No : 30 M/C No : 31
M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 18 Gauge: 18
Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 40
Needle: 2256 Needle: 2356

M/C No : 32 M/C No : 33
M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J)
Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fuku
Origin: Japan Origin: Japan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Feeder: 72 Feeders: 72
Cylinder Dia: 30, Cylinder Dia: 32
Needle: 2715 Needle: 2715

M/C No : 34 M/C No : 35
M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J)
Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara
Origin: Japan Origin: Japan
Gauge: 16 Gauge: 16
Feeder: 72 Feeder: 72
Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia:32

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3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Single Jersey
Single Jersey (Lycra)
Single Jersey Single Jersey (Slub)

Single Pique
Double Pique
Pique Pique (Auto Stripe)

Interlock
Interlock Interlock (Cotton)
Interlock (PC)

Rib 11 Rib
22 Rib
21 Rib

Fleece Fleece
Terry Fleece

Single Lacoste
Double Lacoste
Lacoste
Lacoste (Auto Stripe)

3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics:

Combed yarn
Carded yarn
CVC (80%C+20%P)
PC yarn (80%P+20%C)
Mellange yarn (85%C+15%Viscose)
Viscose
Polyester

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3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.):

(i) S/J without lycra:


Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 120 40 S 36 S
120 130 36 S 32 S
130 140 32 S 28 S
140 150 28 S
150 160 26 S
170 210 24 S

(ii) Rib without lycra:


Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 190 36 S 32 S
190 200 30 S
200 215 28 S
215 230 26 S
230 250 24 S
250 300 24 S

(iii) Interlock without lycra:


Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
200 220 34 S
220 230 32 S
230 250 30 S
250 300 26 S

(iv) Lacoste without lycra:


Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 190 30 S
190 210 28 S
210 230 26 S
230 250 26 S

(v) 40D Lycra Rib & 40D Lycra S/J:


Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 190 34 S
190 210 32 S
210 220 30 S
220 240 28 S
240 250 26 S

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3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section:
The process sequences of knitting section which are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are
given below:

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3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd):

Figure 3.1.9.1 : Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.2 : Auto Striper M/C (Single Jersey)

Figure 3.1.9.3 : Creel & Yarn Bobbin Figure 3.1.9.4 : Cam Box

Figure 3.1.9.5 : Cylinder of Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.6 : Needle

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3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section:

Machine Diameter
Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute)
No. Of Feeders In Use
Machine Gauge
Count Of Yarn
M/C Running Time
Machine Running Efficiency

3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults:

Fault Description Causes Remedies

Vertical stripes Defective needles or Checking needle detectors.


sinkers. Use of fabric fault detector.

Dropped stitches Yarn guide not properly Precise yarn guide resetting.
set. Needle change.
Defective needle latch. Yarn consumption and
Take-down too high. couliering readjustment.
Wrong yarn threading. Take-down readjustment.
Dial position readjustment.

Holes Presence of knot in yarn. Use of flat knots.


Weak places in yarn. Yarn regularly control.
Yarn tension too high . Yarn consumption and
Yarn too dry. couriering readjustment.
Yarn guide not properly Precise yarn guide
set . resetting.
Use of fabric fault detector.

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3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control:
Inspection M/C
Electronic balance
GSM cutter
Measuring tape
Scissors
Indication sticker

Figure 3.1.12 : GSM Cutter

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3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In the fabric inspection section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. all rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c
time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any
major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line,
slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. Abanti
Colour Tex Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point
system is followed to inspect the knitted fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded
in the inspection sheet.

Figure 3.2 : Fabric Inspection M/C

3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection:


Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at Abanti Colour
Tex Ltd. :

Knitting Fault Point


Slub 1
Any hole 4
Needle/Sinker line 4
Needle breakage (upto 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3 in length 1
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6 in length 2
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9 in length 3
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9 in length 4

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3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection:
Hole
Drop stitch
Oil stain
Needle mark
Pin hole
Missing yarn
Sinker mark
Broken needle
Stripe
Slub
Thick & Thin place
Tight course
Wrong ply
Wrong design
Lycra out

3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section:

Following table shows the quality classification of four point grading system followed by inspection at
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Grade A Grade - B Grade - C

Up to 20 21 28 Above 28

OK Ask Reject

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3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection:

Figure 3.2.4.1 : Four Point System & Shrinkage Equation

Figure 3.2.4.2 : Knitted Fabric Inspection Sheet

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3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals:
Different types of chemicals are supplied to dyeing section from the store section. It is located in
the ground floor of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Chemical types are mainly general chemicals, acid,
cationic softener, nonionic (white), anti crease, wetting agent, fixing, buffer, soaping agent,
sequestering agent, levelling agent, enzyme, stabilizer & brightener.

3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section:


Following table shows various types of chemicals that are delivered to dyeing section from the
store house of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :

Chemicals Type Chemicals Name


General Chemicals Soda Ash
Caustic
H202
Hydrose
Antifoam-39
Gluber Salt (anhydrous)
Acid H2S04
Acetic Acid
Formic Acid
Oxalic Acid
Invatex AC
Cationic Softener Alcamine CWS
Sun Soflon-21
Non-lonic (White) Sun Soflon-A300
Supamine FPs
Anticrease Texport GL-500
Texport D-900
Ciba Fluid C
Wetting Agent Invading DA
Sun Morl CK-1
SandocleanPCLF
Flxing Neofix R-250(FDR)
Cibatex ECO
Buffer Amonium Sulphide
Cibatex AB-45
Soaping Agent Alcosper AD
Lipotol PS-60
Sadopur RSK
Sequestering Agent Invatex CS
Neocrystal BGS
Sirrix 2UD

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Levelling Agent Cibacel BDC
Neocrystal 200B
Drimagin E2R
Lyoprint RG
Setamal BL
Croaks N
Enzyme Bio-Polish EC
Bio-Polish AL
Tinozyme 44L
Stabilizer Stabilizer Sifa
NeoratePH-100
Brightener Siba White
Uvitex BHV
Uvitex BBT
Naka white
Leucopher BMB

Figure 3.2 : Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals

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3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.3.2: Layout of Dyeing Chemical Store

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3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section:
In the laboratory section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. sample fabrics are dyed according to buyers
requirements. Depending on lab dip development, sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing
planning are done. It plays an important role in dyeing process. For fulfilling buyer satisfaction
samples are prepared in the dyeing lab and sent to them through merchandiser for approval.
Dyeing laboratory of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two sections:

i. Chemical Laboratory
ii. Physical Laboratory

3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.


To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A B C)

3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section:

Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible.
Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. In Abanti Colour
Tex Ltd. Color measurement is done by two methods: (i) Manual Method & (ii) Instrumental
Method.
In manual method, the std. samples color is measured by comparing it with previously produced
samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the std.
matched, that samples color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This methods accuracy
completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather
experience about color matching.
In instrumental method, Spectrophotometer interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching.
This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave
length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the
instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color
difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose
of shade matching.

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3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory:
3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab:

Figure 3.4.3.1 : Chemical Lab Section

1. Machine Name: Lab dip dyeing Machine


Model:H-24-M
Brand:NEWAVE LAB Equipment Co Ltd.
Country: Taiwan

2. Machine Name: Eco Dyer


Model:Eco-24
Brand:XIAMENRAPID CO LTD
Country: China

3. Machine Name: Temparature Controller Rapid Machine


Model:LT-24SF
Country: China

4. Machine Name: Emergency Eye face Wash


Model:4710
Brand:UDYOGI INDUSTRIES
Country: India

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5. Machine Name: Digital Electronic Balance
Brand:Judever Scale Co Ltd.
Country: Taiwan

6. Machine Name :Pipette Machine


Model:E4-XLS
Brand:RAININ

7. Machine Name: Electronic Precision Balance


Model:KD-UBED-600
Capacity:600kg

8. Machine Name: Dryer Machine


Brand: Siemens
Model: q500
Capacity: 8kg
Country: UAE

9. Machine Name: Miele Professional Washing Machine


Model: pw6055

10. Machine Name: Electrolux Washing Machine


Model: w55h

11. Machine Name: Quickwash Plus


Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany

12. Machine Name: Washcator


Model: M223CLS
Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany

13. Machine Name: Electrolux Dryer


Brand : Electrolux Laundry Systems AB
Model: T5130
Country: Sweeden

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14. Machine Name: Siemens Washing Machine
Model: IQ-500
Capacity: 500kg

15. Machine Name: Light Box


Model: Verivine

3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab:

Figure 3.4.3.2 : Physical Lab Section

1. Machine Name:Martindal Abrasion Pilling Tester


Model:M235
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany

2. Machine Name:pH Tester


Model:BP3001
Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.1 : pH Tester
Country: Germany
3. Machine Name: Yarn Evenness tester
Model:BP3001
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany

Figure 3.4.3.2.2 : Yarn Evenness Tester


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4. Machine Name: Color Evenness to Rubbing
Machine Name:Electronic Crock meter
Model:M238B
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany

5. Machine Name: Suntest Cps+


(Color fastness to light) Figure 3.4.3.2.3 : Abrasion Pilling Tester

Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany

6. Machine Name:Brusting Strength Tester


Model:M229P
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
Figure 3.4.3.2.4 : Auto Pilling Tester
7. Machine Name: Wrap Reel
Model:Y219P
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany

8. Machine Name: Incubator


Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
9. Machine Name: Yarn Twist Tester
Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.5 : Yarn Twist Tester
Country: Germany

10. Machine Name: ICI Pilling Box


Model:MAG-C14F1

11. Machine Name:MAG Electronic Pilling Tester


Brand:MAG Solvic Pvt Ltd.
12. Machine Name: Color Fastness to Washing
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
Figure 3.4.3.2.6 : Suntest Cps+
13. Machine Name: Perspiration Tester
Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany

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Figure 3.4.3.2.7 : Wrap Reel Tester Figure 3.4.3.2.8 : Brusting Strength Tester

Figure 3.4.3.2.9 : Color Evenness to Rubbing Figure 3.4.3.2.10 : Incubator

3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory:


Following Working Procedures are followed in the dyeing lab of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :

i. Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement.

ii. Recipe prediction for sample dyeing.

iii. Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card.

iv. Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.

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3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory:
Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in the laboratory section of Abanti
Colour Tex Ltd. Different types of method are followed for different types of tests.

There are mainly two types of tests are done in dyeing laboratory section:

1. Physical Tests:

GSM Test
Shrinkage test
Pilling resistance etc.

2. Chemical Tests:

Fastness to washing
Fastness to rubbing etc.

3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric:


3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test:

Required materials:

1. Sample size 40 x 100 mm


2. Multifiber at 40 x 100 mm
3. ECE detergent
4. Sodium Perborate
5. Distilled water
6. Normal cold water
7. Steel balls

Procedure:

1. Cut sample & multifibere at 40 x 100 mm.


2. 50 ml ECE detergent & 50 ml Sodium perborate is taken with the sample.
3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine.
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
5. Dry at 600C by hanging or by flat iron press but temperature should not be more than
1500C.

Report:

Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale &
Staining Scale.

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3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:

Sample:

1. Dyed fabric -15 cm x 5 cm


2. White Test Cloth -5 cm x 5 cm

Procedure:

1. White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.
2. The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. And the rubbing
fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.
3. For rubbing fastness of wet sample, the rubbing cloth is placed in the water
and socked and squeeze.
4. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with Stainless
steel wire and run ten times manually then assesses the attaining on to the
rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.

Report:

Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of
the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality):

Sample:

Two piece of 50 cm x 50 cm fabric is taken for test

Procedure:

Conditioning: Put the sample in the table for 4 hours for conditioning before Starting test.

1. Cut the sample 50 x 50 cm & benchmark should be 35 x 35 cm.


2. Stitch the Sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
3. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyers choice.

Drying: All Buyers requirement is tumble dry except echo scouring is flat dry.

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3.4.6.4 Pilling Test:

1. Pilling test is applicable for fabric with synthetic fabric.


2. This test is carried out in pilling box.
3. A Sample of 10 cm x 10 cm is sewn round a rubber tube.
4. Then the tube in the Pilling box and the door of it is closed.
5. Then the meter is set for 10600 cycles.
6. After the cycle is completed, the fabric is assessed by a special grey scale. The grey scale
is provided Pilling box.

3.4.6.5 GSM Test:

GSM is the most important factor. There is two GSM cutters in the dyeing lab. The Sample cut
by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multiplied by
100 to get Value of GSM.

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3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 40 set dyeing machines available & average production is
30 ton/day. In this section, dyeing operations are done which are used at various stages of
production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase the product value. Dyeing
operation chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting light appears. The raw materials
used for dyeing production are: (i) Grey Fabric, (ii) Dyes & (iii) Chemicals. Here, firstly
batching operation is done. After that pretreatment & dyeing are done. Finally, the dyed fabrics
are sent to dyeing finishing section. Mainly single jersey, interlock, lacoste, fleece, terry, rib,
lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others fabrics are dyed in this section.

3.5.1 Batching Section:


This section is included in the dyeing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. In this section according
to batch no, color, width, style and construction the production planning for dyeing is made.
Batching process is mainly done to get ready the fabric which should be dyed and process for a
particular lot of a particular order.

3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section:

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
Turn the grey fabric if required.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria:
Order sheet
Dyeing shade (Color Or White, Light Or Dark)
M/C Capacity
M/C available
Type of fabric
Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep Records for every previous dyeing.
3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section:

Figure 3.5.1.2.1: Air Turning Machine-1 Figure 3.5.1.2.2: Air Turning Machine-2

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3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1:

Model: DNAT-400

Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd

Manufacturing Country: Korea

3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2:

Model: DNAT-400

Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd

Manufacturing Country: Korea

3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines:

Alter the side of fabric for better dyeing and finishing. Then fabrics are stored in the trolley
according to the nozzle capacity of production dyeing m/c.

3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Machine Machine Manufacturing Capacity Yd/Min Nozzle M:L


No. Name Coutry No.
1 AK Dyeing Taiwan 180 kg 300 1 1:6
Machine
2 AK Dyeing Taiwan 200 kg 300 1 1:7
Machine
3 AK Dyeing Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7
Machine
4 AK Dyeing Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7
Machine
5 AK Dyeing Taiwan 1200 kg 300 6 1:7
Machine
6 Dilmener Turkey 450 kg 400 2 1:10
Machine
7 Dilmener Turkey 600 kg 400 2 1:6
Machine
8 Dilmener Turkey 900 kg 350 3 1:6
Machine

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9 AK Dyeing Taiwan 400 kg 350 2 1:7
Machine
10 AK Dyeing Taiwan 100 kg 350 1 1:7
Machine
11 AK Dyeing Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7
Machine
12 AK Dyeing Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7
Machine
13 AK Dyeing Taiwan 800 kg 350 4 1:7
Machine

Figure 3.5.2.1 : Dilmener Dyeing Machine

Figure 3.5.2.2 : AK Dyeing Machine

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3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production:

3.5.3.1 pH:

During peroxide bleaching & scouring 9-11


During enzyme treatment 4.5-5
Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5
Before addition of color softener 6-6.5
Before addition of white softener 4.5-5
Softener at stenter & de-watering 5.5-6
Silicon softener 5.5-6
Reactive dyeing 10.5-12
Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5

3.5.3.2 Temperature:

For cotton scouring 95-110C


For cotton cold wash 40-50C
For cotton hot wash 70-80C
For cotton acid wash 60-70C
For cotton dyeing 80C ( For hot brand)/60C (For cold brand)

3.5.3.3 Time:

For scouring and bleaching 60-90 mins


For reactive dyeing 60-90 mins
For disperse dyeing 60-90 mins

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3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics:
i. Required amount of water was taken into the machine
ii. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature
iii. Demineralization 60 0C were added at a time for 20 minutes
iv. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes
v. Temperature increased at 600 C
vi. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) was added for 5 minutes
vii. Temperature increased at 950C and continue for 1 hour
viii. Sample check
ix. Cold wash at 750C for 5-10 minutes
x. Hot wash at 900C for 5-10 minutes
xi. Required amount of water was loaded
xii. Enzyme was added
xiii. Acetic acid was added
xiv. Temperature increased at 550C for 60 minutes
xv. Temperature increased at 800C for 5-10 minutes
xvi. Cold wash at 400C and drain
xvii. Leveling agent is added
xviii. Temperature increased at 600C
xix. Run time 10 minutes
xx. Salt dosing
xxi. Temperature increased at 600C
xxii. Run for 10 min
xxiii. Color addition
xxiv. Dosing time 30 min
xxv. Temperature increase at 600C for 5 min
xxvi. Run for 10 min
xxvii. Soda Ash
xxviii. 600C for 40 min dosing
xxix. Shade check
xxx. Rinsing
xxxi. Wash
xxxii. Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min
xxxiii. 400C temperature
xxxiv. Washing agent
xxxv. Hot wash at 900C for 90 min
xxxvi. Fixing agent
xxxvii. 900C temperature for 10 min dosing
xxxviii. Run time 10min
xxxix. Cold wash
xl. Drain
xli. Softener
xlii. 400C for 20 min
xliii. Fabric unload

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3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics:

i. Required amount of water filled


ii. Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min
iii. Demineralization 600C were added at a time for 20 minutes
iv. Run for 10 min at 780 C
v. Rinse for 10 min
vi. Drain
vii. Required amount of water filled
viii. Leveling agent added
ix. Check pH at 4.5
x. Dyes added for 15 min.
xi. Temperature increased at 800C Run for 15 min
xii. Temperature increase at 1300C
xiii. Run for 45 min.
xiv. Cooling at 800C
xv. Shade check
xvi. Rinsing for 15 min.
xvii. Drain
xviii. Required amount of water filled
xix. Temperature increased at 600C
xx. Run for 20 min.
xxi. Add caustic soda
xxii. Temperature increased at 700C
xxiii. Add H2O2and temperature increased at 980C
xxiv. For light color run 60 min, for deep color run 40 min
xxv. Sample check
xxvi. Check PH
xxvii. Add enzyme at 600C temperature
xxviii. Run 40 min
xxix. Add leveling agent
xxx. Add salt
xxxi. Add color at same temperature
xxxii. Run 10 min
xxxiii. Add Soda and run 35 min
xxxiv. Shade check
xxxv. Hot wash
xxxvi. Cold wash
xxxvii. Softeners add and run 30 min
xxxviii. Drain
xxxix. Fabric upload

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3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production:

1.Crack, rope & crease marks:

Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
Incorrect process procedure
Higher fabric speed
Remedies:
Pre-Heat setting
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure

2.Fabric distortion and increase in width:

Causes:
Too high material speed
Low liquor ratio
Remedies:
By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed

3.Pilling:

Causes:
Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric
Excess speed during processing
Excess foam formation in the dye bath
Remedies:
By using of a suitable chemical lubricant
By using antifoaming agent
By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing

4.Running Problem:

(i) Ballooning:

Causes:
Seam joining with too densely sewn
Remedies:
By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air

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(ii) Intensive foaming:

Causes:
Pumping a mixture of air and water
Remedies:
By using antifoaming agent

5.Uneven dyeing:

Causes:
Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)
Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
Lack of control of dyeing m/c
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

6.Shade variation (Batch to batch):

Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable.
Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters
should be controlled carefully:

Use standard dyes and chemicals


Maintain the same liquor ratio
Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
Maintain the same dyeing cycle
Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the shade
Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and
temperature in the process
The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily

7.Dye spot:

Causes:
Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature
Remedies:
Pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when adding it to
the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

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8.Roll to roll variation:

Causes:
Poor migration property of dyes
Improper dyes solubility
Hardness of water
Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals
Proper m/c speed
Use of soft water

9.Crease mark:

Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio

10.Softener mark:

Causes:
Improper mixing of the softener
Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener
Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed
Proper Mixing of the softener before addition
Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

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3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section:
DGM

Manager

Asst. Manager

Sr.Production Officer

Production Officer

Asst. Production Officer

Officer

Incharge

Asst. Incharge (Finishing)

Supervisor

Data Entry Officer

Store Officer

Q.C

Lab Technician

Asst. Tec. A/C

Snr.Officer (Lab)

Trainee Chemist

Trainee Officer

Lab Officer

Lab Assistant

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3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.5.7 : Dyeing Unit Layout

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3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In the dyeing finishing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., The final processing of the fabric is
done to increase the natural properties or attractiveness before the fabric is cut into apparel.In
dyeing finishing secction multiple processes are done that convert the fabric into a usable
material. Dyeing finishing is more specifically any process that is performed after dyeing the
fabric to improve the look, performance of the finished fabric.

3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section:


To improve the attractiveness and service ability of textile material
To increase life & durability of the textile material
To set dyes and chemicals in to the textile material
To meet up specific and use

Figure 3.6 : Dyeing Finishing Section

(Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.)

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3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section:

Receive fabric from dyeing section

Tube or Open fabric

Squeezer

Slitter (Tube fabric)

Stenter

Compactor

Final inspection

Packing or Rolling

Fabric sent to delivery section

3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section:


Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine

1 Slitting Machine 2

2 Stenter Machine 1

3 Open Compacting Machine 2

4 Squeezer Machine 1

5 Dryer 1

6 Calender Machine 1

7 Tube Tex 1

8 Tumble Dryer 1

Total 10

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3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1:
Origin: Italy
Manufacturing Company: Corino
Comercial name: Super Slit

Slitting Machine Working Cycle:

Rope Squeezing
Detwisting
Slitting
Squeezing
Folding
Delivery
This machine is used for open finish.

Figure 3.6.3.1 : Slitting Machine

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3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2:

Origin: Italy

Manufacturing Company: Bianco

Slitting Machine Working Cycle:

Feed roller

Centering roller

Gear box

Dancing roller

Free roller

Spandle roller

Delivery

3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine:

Origin: Germany

Manufacturing Company: Bruckner

Stenter Machine Working Cycle:

Squeezing

Washing with softener

Twisting /Spirality

Stripe correction

Drying

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Figure 3.6.3.3 : Stenter Machine

3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1:

Origin:Italy

Manufacturing Company: Lafer Spa

Open Compacting Machine Working Cycle:

Making Fabric flat

Dia control

Steaming

Ironing

GSM control

Finishing

Figure 3.6.3.4 : Open Compacting Machine

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3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2:

Origin:Italy

Manufacturing Company: Ferraro

This machine is consisted of three zones:

1.Compactor zone

2.Surprizing zone

3.Standard zone

3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine:

Origin:Italy

Manufacturing Company :Corino

This machine is used for tube finish.

3.6.3.7 Dryer:

Origin:Switzerland

Manufacturing Company: Santex

Dryer Machine Working Cycle:

Washing with cold water

Softener

Over Fit roller

Dia setting

Conveyor

Drying

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Figure 3.6.3.7 : Santex Machine

3.6.3.8 Calender Machine:

Comercial Name :Soft calender machine

Origin:Korea

Manufacturing Company: Dongnam Industrial Co. Ltd.

Model:DNC-1400

Figure 3.6.3.8 : Soft Calender Machine

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3.6.3.9 Tube Tex:

Origin: USA

Manufacturing Company: American Textile Manufacturing Association

Tube Tex Machine Working Cycle:

Metal detector

Oven feed

Dia control

Steam

Feed roller

Retard roller

Shrinkage ,GSM and Dia control

Folding

Figure 3.6.3.9 : Tube Tex

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3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer:

Origin: Taiwan
Manufacturing Company: Machinery Works Co Ltd.
Capacity: 55kg
Temprature: Max 110

This machine is used for controling GSM and shrinkage of fabric.

3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.6.4 : Dyeing Finishing Unit Layout

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3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section:

3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps:

Following dyeing finishing inspection steps are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

1st step - Shade Check

2nd step - Running Shade Check

3rd step - Dia Check

4th step Faults & GSM Check

3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection:

Following defects are found in the dyeing finishing inspection:

Uneven shade
Oil spot
Naps
Crease mark
Machine Stoppage mark
Listing
Line mark
Pick missing
Double yarn
Dead cotton
Bowing
Fly yarn contamination

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3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., marker making is done in the CAD (Computer-Aided Design)
section. The time consuming and cumbersome process of textile designing has been made easier
by CAD section. From this section pattern paper & marker paper are delivered to cutting section.
Here Optitex PDS software is used for pattern & marker making. For marker making
efficiency is kept between 80-85%. Main aims of this section are minimizing the fabric wastage
during cutting & maintaining accurate fabric cutting.

3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section:


1. Morgan Leonardo 220 Ultra Wide Printer
Marker Dia: 182-210 cm
2. Ioline
Marker Dia: 182 cm
3. Algotex Wave Jet 180
Marker Dia: 182-210 cm
4. Pattern Cutter
Brand: Winda
Origin: China

3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section:

Pattern alignment
Pattern direction
Parts missing
Mismatched checked/stripes
Over lapping
Marker too wide than fabric
Poor Or double line marking
When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel
to the line of the warp in a knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layers the
line is kept parallel to course

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3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section:

Manager

Snr. Officer

CAD Officer

Asst.Officer

Trainee Officer

3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section:

Artwork & Spec sheet form merchandiser

Making pattern

Computer Processing order art work

Marker making as per color art work

Manual working for waist loop

Discuss with fabric department

Marker Delivery to cutting section

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3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., cutting section is the one which plays a key role in production. It is
the beginning of the garments production. So cutting section has the most efficient professionals
working in it. There are 30 set cutting machines and 6 cutting tables available in this section.
Fabric cutting means to cut out the garment piece of the lays from of fabric with the help of
cutting template or marker. It is the previous step of sewing. This section works as fast as
possible because the more the unloading of bundles can take place the more the production can
take place. In this section spreading, laying, marking, cutting, numbering, bundling and
embellishment of the fabric are done.

3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section:


To get the accurate shape of the components of garments.
To make the garments parts ready for sewing.
Prepare fabrics for RMG (Ready Made Garment).
Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.
Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery.

3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section:


Dyeing management approval

Cutting management approval

Fabric spreading on table

Placing the marker paper


(Pattern paper & Chalk is used for yarn dyed fabric)

Cutting by machine man

Sticker matching

Bundling

Cut components check

Deliver into sewing section

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3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2):

Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine

1 Hand cutting machine 18

2 Cutting auto spreader lay machine 2

3 Stickering machine 8

4 Bend knife machine 2

Total 30

3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine:

Manufacturer: KM Mack
Country: Japan
Speed: 3000/3600m
Frequency: 50/60Hz
Volt: 220v
Length: 8-10 inch
Blade: Straight Bar Blade

Figure 3.8.3.1 : Hand Cutting Machine

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3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.


Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.
High cutting speed.
Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.
Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.
Blade height 10 to 33cm.
Blade stroke 2.5cm to 4.5cm.

3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine:

Manufacturer: Kuris

Country: Germany

Figure 3.8.3.2 : Auto Spreader Lay Machine

3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine:

Stickers are attached to fabric after cutting by this machine.

3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine:

Three types of interlining are done by this machine:

(i) Open interlining, (ii) Mesh interlining, & (iii) Normal interlining

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3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section:

Snr. Manager

Manager

Snr.Incharge

In-Charge

Q.C. In-Charge

Delivery Incharge

Supervisor

Asst. Supervisor

Officer

Quality Controller

L.Q.C

Cutting Machine Man

Marker Man

Asst. Spreader Man

3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2):


Total Workers 180

No. Of Table 6

No. Of Total Machine 30

No. Of Pattern Master 5

Fabric Lay Height Standard Max 150 Lay (Cotton/Polyester)

Daily Production 45000 pieces

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3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.8.5 : Cutting Unit-2 Layout

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3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 22 printing tables available & average production is 120000
pcs/day. In this section, firstly artwork is made & design is created. After that design is exposed
& then it is checked by sample department. Lastly, if the created design is approved then it is
applied in the final production.

3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section:


Digital Exposure Machine
Manual Exposure Machine
Heat Press Machine
Airtac GFR
Curing Machine
Auto Printing Machine
Laser Cutting Machine

3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


Pigment printing
Rubber printing
Discharge printing
High density printing
Crack printing
Pup Printing
Foil printing
Water printing
Plastic printing

Figure 3.9.1 : Auto Printing Machine (Diamond Red Chili 12 Head)

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3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings:
Type of Printing Temp
Pigment printing 160-1700C
Rubber printing 150-1700C
Discharge printing 2000C
High density printing 1800C
3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section:
Mesh fabric tight with frame

Applied chemical texture on the mesh & dried 8 min in air

Placed design paper under the mesh

Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4%

Remove the colored texture from the design are by water spraying
3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section:
Count the garments part

Screen preparation

Printing paste preparation

Applied garments part on the printing bed gum in the marked portion

Printing the garments part by using screen

Drying the printing portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow

Curing the printing portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600-1800c

Inspection the quality

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3.9.6 Foil Printing Process:

Temp 15000 C
Pressure 100 psi
Time 6 sec
Pressing 2 times

Add adhesive on the require design by screen

Place the fabric part on the pressing m/c

Pressing the upper part of the m/c at 100 psi temp 1000C for 6 sec

3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section:


Snr. Manager

Manager

Snr.Incharge

In-Charge

Asst. In-Charge

Designer

Printing Master

Asst. Master

Supervisor

Sr.Q.C

Lab Technician

L.Q.C

Quality Controller

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3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.9.8 : Printing Unit Layout (1st Floor)

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3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 187 heads of embroidery available. Int this section, firstly
sample from buyer is received. Then it is scanned and imported to computer softwatre Adobe
Photoshop. Then analysis & design of required embroidery are done. After required adjustment
& correction from buyer it is approved for bulk production.

3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types:


Following embroidery stitches are used in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

i Run stitch

ii Motif stitch

iii Tatami stitch

iv Shirting stitch

3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine:

Brand Name: Tajima


Origin: Japan
No Of Head: 20
No Of Needle Per Head: 9
Total No. Of Embroidery Head: 187

Figure 3.10.2 : Embroidery Machine

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3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section:
Art Work Or Sample From Buyer

Scan & Imported To Adobe Photoshop

Analysis

Design Demanded Type Of Embroidery

Comment / Adjustment & Corrrection

Buyer Approval

Bulk Production

3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section:

Broken stitch
Out stitch
Embroidery slinked
Double stitch
Needle hole
Raw edge
False stitch
Loose thread
Needle mark
Bobbin thread loose
Frame spot mark

Thread mistake
Wrong design

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3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section:
In-Charge

Asst. In-Charge

Designer

Supervisor

Sr.Q.C

Quality Controller

L.Q.C

3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.10.6 : Embroidery Unit Layout (3rd Floor)

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3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 1600 set sewing machines available & average garments
production is 135000 pcs/day.In this section, fabric is joined by the use of needle and thread.
Sewing & Finishing section is the biggest section in the industry. The main purpose of sewing is
to produce a line along which two or more fabrics are joined by sewing, fusion, gluing, stapling
or alternative method. After completing sewing garments are sent to inspection section & then to
finishing section. In the finishing section ironing, measurement check, quality inspection, size
separate, hang tagging, folding, poly packing & final inspection are done. Then garments are sent
to packing section.

3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


Machine Name Brand Name Origin No. Of Thread Total
Used In M/C Quantity

Plain Machine BROTHER China 2 Thread 375

Flat Lock Cylinder PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread


Bed Machine
525
Flat Lock Flat Bed PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread
Machine

Over Lock Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread

BROTHER China 4 Thread 320

PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread

Back Tape Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread 85

Button Attach BROTHER China 1 Thread 50


Machine

Button Hole BROTHER China 2 Thread 60


Machine

Snap Button Attach PEGASUS Japan 80


Machine

Rib Cutter Machine JUKI Japan 4 Thread 25

Flat seam machine PEGASUS Japan 50

Bar Tack Machine PEGASUS China 50

Total Machine 1620

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3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Figure 3.11.2.1:
Overlock Machine

Figure 3.11.2.2:
Plain Machine

Figure 3.11.2.3:
Flat Lock Flat Bed Machine

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Figure 3.11.2.4:
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Machine

Figure 3.11.2.5:
Back Tape Machine

Figure 3.11.2.6:
Rib Cutter Machine

Figure 3.11.2.7:
Button Hole Machine

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Figure 3.11.2.8:
Button Attach Machine

Figure 3.11.2.9:
Bar Tack Machine

Figure 3.11.2.10:
Snap Button Attach Machine

Figure 3.11.2.11:
Flat Seam Machine

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3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section:
BUYER KIABI

STYLE NO. SDBS17( HGTYE)


ORDER NO. 344820
ITEM GRILS T- SHIRT
WORK PLACE UNIT-02, SEW-01 LINE-1
ORDER QTY 17643 PCS
INPUT DATE 15/2/2017
REPORTING DATE 16/2/2017
LINE TARGET 100

OP. PROCESS NAME M/C SMV TGT/HR USED


NO. M/C
1 FRONT/ BACK PART MATCH HELP 0.24 250 1
2 SHOULDER JOIN O/L 0.21 286 1
3 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.25 240 1
4 PLACKET PASTING IRON I/M 0.44 273 2
5 PLACKET SERVICING O/L 0.28 214 1
6 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.24 250 1
7 PLACKET TOP STITCH S/N 0.6 200 2
8 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.4 150 1
9 NECK PIPING F/L 0.26 231 1
10 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.22 273 1
11 PIPING NOSE TACK S/N 0.28 214 1
12 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.2 300 1
13 MAIN + SIZE LABEL SEWING S/N 0.23 261 1
14 MAIN +SIZE LABEL JOIN S/N 0.24 250 1
15 SLEEVE SERVICING O/L 0.41 146 1
16 SLEEVE TOP STITCH S/N 0.59 203 2
17 GRATHRING CUT MARK HELP 0.37 162 1
18 SLEEVE GRATHRING S/N 0.66 182 2
19 SLEEVE TACK WITH BODY S/N 0.58 310 3
20 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.36 167 1

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21 SLEEVE JOIN O/L 0.70 171 2
22 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.43 140 1
23 SIDE CLOSE O/L 0.64 188 2
24 BOTTOM SCISSORING HELP 0.39 154 1
25 BOTTOM PIPING F/L 0.83 217 3
26 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.51 118 1
27 SIDE SLIT CROSS TACK S/N 0.62 194 2
28 BOTTOM PIPING TOP STITCH S/N 1.88 128 4
29 ARMHOLE TOP STITCH S/N 0.70 171 2
30 SLIT BARTACK B/T 0.51 118 1

MIN MAX
SMV 14.27 LINE TARGET 32 151

M/O SMV 10.66 75%

HELPER SMV 3.61 25%

Machine Name Machine Quantity


S/N M/C 20
O/L MC 7
F/L M/C 4
B/H M/C 0
B/S M/C 0
B/T M/C 1
S/B M/C 0
E/H M/C 0
KANSAI 0
I/M 2
HELP 11
TOTAL MACHINE 34
TOTAL MANPOWER 45

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3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy:

1. If any needle breaks down in the time of work then broken part and needle change from needle
man with a new needle.

2. If worker do not find out the broken part then worker inform to supervisor.

3. If worker do not find out broke part then the garment will be reject. Because that garment can
be contain this broken part.

3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy:

1. Worker should be careful in time of sewing.

2. Needle selection should be correct.

3. Correct fabric tension and thread tension.

4. Proper needle setting in sewing machine.

3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section:

Receive bundle of various parts from cutting section

Place it in the end of the line to a helper

Open the bundle

Through it to sewing

Sewing

Finished sewing

Inspection

Send to finishing section

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3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section:
Open seam
Raw material/ shades/ wrong side
Oil or Dirt stains
Holes in material
Measurement out of range
Wrong size label
Missing trim
Wrong trim
Uneven stitch line or parts
Loose / skip stitches
Uncut thread
SPI not correct
Uneven shoulder length
Rib shading
Stripe Mismatch
Irregular bottom hem
Wrong Placket shape
Poor joints
Raw edges
Seam Puckering
Wrong button/Hole placement
Uneven sleeve length
Back neck tape uneven

3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section:


Inspector will check each & every process at the work station and report.

Defect and measurement both should be checked in the line.

If the inspector finds a defective unit, corrective action should be taken.

The concern production supervisors should rectify defective unit with the same
operator.

Proper attachment of machine.

Transportation section to section or station to station

Proper maintenance, cleanliness.

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3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section:
No. of Iron table 50

No. of inspection table 50

No. of final inspection table 15

No. of folding and packing table 30

No. of Hang tag , Color and Shade checking table 25

3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section:

Iron table

Check table

Measurement table

Getup area

4 point inspection

Size wise separation

Hand tag

Folding table

Poly table

Send to packing section

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3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Unit-2 Layout

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3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In this section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., generally there are three types of packing are done:

1. Assort packing: Different garments size ratio in one blister.

2. Solid packing: Same garments size in one poly pack.

3. Mixed packing: This is needed if there are extra garments pieces left.

3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section:

Receive garments from finishing section

Folding & insert a board, tissue

Poly packing

Cartooning

Applied costape on the carton pack

Packing completed

Shipment

3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section:

1. Depend On Stitching:

Stitching Carton
Metal Free Carton

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2. Depend On Ply:
3 Ply Carton
5 Ply Carton
7 Ply Carton
3. Depend On Size:
Master Carton
Inner Carton

3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


Following QC sections are available in the industry:

3.13.1 H&M QC Section:


Three types of inspection are done:
(i) Trial inspection (It is done before bulk production)
(ii) Inline inspection (It is done during production)
(iii) Final inspection (It is done after production)

3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC:

(i) Critical defect: Needle issue, Button pull test, Nickel test, Bad smell, Insect etc.
(ii) Major defect: Oil spot, Broken stitch, Skip stitch, Holes, Open seam, Shade
difference, Loose thread etc.
(iii) Minor defect: Uneven shape, Poor shade, Dirty spot etc. [3 minor=1 major]

3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC:

1. Pull Test Machine: Button strength test at 90N


2. Moisture Tester: Moisture of fabric should be kept between 50-65C
3. Light Meter: For matching shade, 1500 lux is the requirement.

3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC:

Garment is inspected in three kinds of light:

(i) Bright light


(ii) Low light
(iii) UV light

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Figure 3.13.1.2 : Pull Test Machine

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Figure 3.13.1 : RQS System of H&M QC

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3.13.2 MGB QC Section:
Three types of inspection are done in MGB QC section. They are:

(i) Inline inspection (By third party)

(ii) Pre-final inspection

(iii) Final inspection

3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


This section is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of
man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge and skill in the technical,
economics and human sciences, either with the principles or methods of engineering analysis and
design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such system.

3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section:


1. SMV (Standard Minute Value)
2. Time study
3. Capacity study
4. Follow up observation study
5. Garments breakdown
6. Machine layout
7. Men-Machine study
8. Line target setup
9. Process wise target
10. Line efficiency
11. Floor efficiency
12. Sewing forecast
13. Finishing forecast
14. Input-Output analyze (WIP- Work In Process)
15. Hourly production check
16. Planning
17. Operator skill report & grade wise salary fix
18. Re-skill test
19. Skill matrix
20. Overtime control
21. Thread consumption

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22. Fabric consumption
23. CM costing
24. Method study
25. Loss time count etc.

3.14.2 Functions of IE Section:

Work measurement of sewing operations, cutting room jobs and finishing jobs
Setting standard time for sewing operations and manual operations
Style analysis and conducting research and development (R&D) of the styles
Improving method of work and design workstation
Production planning and factory capacity determination
Work aids development
Work station designing and machine layout planning
Labor cost estimation
Performance measuring of workers
Training of workers (sewing operators)
Designing incentive scheme and calculating incentive for sewing operators
Setting line production target of the sewing lines and chasing production from line
supervisors and operators
Application of lean tools
Assist line supervisors by preparing resource requirement plan (machines and equipment
and manpower), line setting and line balancing etc.
Assist production managers in target planning and production planning,
Help merchandiser and marketing personnel by providing labor cost and production lead
time,
Help HR department by providing operator performance level, and help in operator
recruitment
Prepare MIS reports and show management team product status on daily basis and alert
management team if their attention is needed
Set up standards operating procedures for new tasks, new process required for ever
changing fashion products

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3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section:

DGM

Snr. Manager

Manager

Asst. Manager

Snr. Officer

Officer

Trainee Officer

3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex


Ltd.:
Followings are the basic works of this section:

(i) Offering seasonal garments. Mainly for Summer/Winter/Autumn/Spring


(ii) Material proposal
(iii) Assist the designer of buyer
(iv) Improve the design of garments

3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., merchandising section mediates marketing and production
departments. It is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain
categories of commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of
product line from start to finish. A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a
profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to
the buyers being handled.

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3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section:

Merchandiser

Negotiation with buyer & collect order

Costing

Sample making

Get approval & placement of order

Collect accessories for production

Line balancing

Production monitoring

Inspection

Final Inspection

Document preparation for banking

Shipment

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3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser:
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
Internal & external communication,
Sampling
Lab dips
Accessories & trims
Preparing internal order sheets
Preparing purchase orders
Advising and assisting production,
Advising quality department about quality level
Mediating production and quality departments
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following up the shipment

3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section:


Manager

Office Asst.

Sr. Merchandiser

Merchandiser

Trainee Merchandiser

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3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Human resources are the set of individuals who make up the workforce of an organization,
business sector, or economy. In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., Human Resource section is divided into
two sections:

3.17.1 Recruiment:
(i) Manpower budgeting & organogram planning
(ii) Advertisement in online
(iii) Motivation & Training
(iv) Follow up
(v) Planning for workers and staffs.

3.17.2 Payroll:
(i) Absent or present count
(ii) Salary related works

3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section:


Job analysis and job description
Determining wages and salaries
Recruitment and selection
Performance appraisal
Training and development
Employee welfare and motivation
Addressing employees grievances
Labor management relations
Implementing organizational policies
Promotions
Position classification and grading
Salary determination
Performance appraisal review and processing
Awards review and processing.

3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., administrative staff manages corporate description such as human
resources, finance and accounting, billing, health and safety, and environmental compliance.
They do order process, preparing invoices, conducting marketing and sales, managing human
resources etc.

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This section discusses about the following works:

Daily attendance report by attendance machine


Weekly attendance report by attendance machine
Monthly attendance report by attendance machine
ID card prepare
Operators personal file prepare
Daily machine inventory
Daily man power report
Daily HR history position
Lefty procedure follow up
Lefty letter issue
Lefty report
Regain report
Attendance bonus report
Over time check report
Old id card repaired
Attendance missing report

3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:


Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., compliance simply means conformity with environmental laws and
regulations. This section uses various methods to achieve compliance, including compliance
assistance, compliance monitoring and compliance incentives. This section discusses about the
following works:
No electric supply in the store room.
Loading area security.
Safety side completely audits.
Follow up the CAD man training.
Follow up the CAD man personal computer password.
High & weight is limited in the cutting section.
Metal gloves & musk is compulsory in cutting section.
RQS report follows up.
Floor inventory follow up.
Operation placement check in sewing section.
Machine maintain report follow up.
Needle policy report follows up.
Toilet clean check.
Water check report.
Spot removing area follows up.
Metal detector machine check.
Follow up pest control policy.
Grading report check.
HR personal file check.
Follow up regain report.
Finally follow up all rules and regulation.

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3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In this section color particles & chemicals that are presented in the water discharged from
various wet processing stages are removed. Effluent treatment plant is a process to convert
wastewater which is water no longer needed or suitable for its most recent use into an effluent
that can be either returned to the water cycle with minimal environmental issues or reused. In
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Biological ETP (Biochemical) is used. Here, Bacteria is used to treat the
contaminated water and chemicals are used to control the process as well as the growth of
bacteria.

3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section:


Raw effluent

Inlet

Equalization tank

Flocculation tank

Dozing tank (Lime,FeSo4 and Polymer)

Lamella clariefier

pH correction tank

Bio tower

Aeration tank (Urea+DAP)

Lamella clariefier

Filter feed pump

Treated water tank

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3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section:
The characteristics of waste water assumed at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are as follows:
pH = 11
BOD = 300 mg/L
COD = 200 mg/L
Suspended Solid (SS) = 200 mg/L
Color = Dark Reddish

Final treated quality of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. discharge is:


pH = 6-9 (disposable limit 6-9)
BOD = 37 mg/ L (disposable limit 50 mg/L)
COD = 147 mg / L (disposable limit 200 mg/L)
Suspended Solid = 51 mg/L (disposable limit 150 mg/L)
Color = Color Less
3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan:

Figure 3.20.3 : ETP Layout

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3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. following utility services are available:

i. Water

ii. Electricity

iii. Steam

iv. Gas

v. Compress air

3.21.1 Boiler:

Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is two boilers in
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.

3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler:

Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to water and
ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet processing section
for:

1. Heating Cylinder Dryer

2. Steaming During Dyeing

3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler:

1. Fire Tube Boiler

2. Water Tube Boiler

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3.21.2 Machines Available in Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:

Boiler Machine 1
Brand: Cochran
Volts: 415v
Capacity: 5.5 tons

Figure 3.21.2.1 : Boiler Machine

Boiler Machine 2
Brand: Thermax
Volts: 415v
Capacity: 5.5 tons

Figure 3.21.2.2 : Boiler Machine

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3.21.3 Working Principal Of Boiler Machine:

The gas is fed through the front side to the furnace where fire created by electric park the blower
move the fire into the flue pipe compress air and then flue gases enter through the combustion
chamber which is lined with bricks on the outer wall of boiler. The hot gases passing through
the horizontal smoke tube give their heat to the water and convert water into steam.

Feed water tank

Gas Burner Boiler Blower

Steam

Factory house

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CHAPTER-4
Impact of Internship

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4.1 Knitting section:

Learned the process of knitting in the industry.


Learned about different types of knitting machines available in industry.
Observed the fabric inspection system.
Observed the various count of yarn.
Identified fabric construction & fabric name.
Learned about production calculation & stitch length calculation from count.
Learned about GSM calculation.
Learned about measurement by 4 point system.

4.2 Dyeing chemicals store section:.


Learned about different types of chemicals used in dyeing floor.
Learned the maintenance system of chemicals store section.

4.3 Dyeing lab section:


Learned the process of lab dip.
Learned about classification of colors.
Observed the machines available in chemical lab.
Observed the machines available in physical lab.
Learned about physical & chemical test.
Learned the operations of machines available in dyeing lab.

4.4 Dyeing section:

Learned the process dyeing in the industry.


Learned about different dyes.
Learned about batching process.
Learned about the machines available in dyeing floor.
Learned about shade & how to match the shade in dyeing process.
Learned the dosing system.
Observed the dyeing faults.

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4.5 Dyeing finishing section:

Learned the process dyeing finishing.


Learned about the machines available in dyeing finishing floor.
Learned about dewatering, heat setting, softening, calendaring, gsm, dia , length width,
control.

4.6 CAD Section:

Learned the process of preparing a pattern for an individual size & design.
Learned about softwares that are used for computer aided design.
Learned the process of preparing a marker paper via printer.
Observed the computer operations for maintaining best efficiency.
Learned about the machines available CAD section.

4.7 Cutting Section:

Learned the cutting procedure.


Learned about ply thickness.
Observed the process of fabric cutting according to the marker.
Observed the cutting table description.
Learned about different type of cutting machines (i.e. Straight knife cutting machine,
Round knife cutting machine, Band knife cutting machine etc.)
Learned the fabric spreading procedure.
Observed how numbering and bundling are done.
Learned about bias angle during Cutting .

4.8 Printing & Embroidery Section:

Learned about different types of printing.


Observed the process of printing.
Learned about different type of machines used in printing and embroidery floor.

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4.9 Sewing Section:

Learned about different type of machines used in a sewing floor. (i.e. Single or double
needle lock stitch machine , Multi needle chain stitch machine, Over lock machine,
Feed of the arm machine etc.)
Cleared the conception about production of a sewing floor. ( line by line and total floor)
Observed and realized the importance of final inspection at the end of every sewing line.
Learned about machine layout for different items.

4.10 Finishing Section:

Observed various type of finishing process after sewing.


Observed different type of machines used in finishing section. (i.e. Neck press machine,
Metal detector machine etc.)
Learned about different type of iron machines.
Learned about various type of accessories used to attach to the garment (i.e. Security
Alarm, Hang tag, Price tag, Barcode label etc.)
Observed the application of different chemicals for the removal of various type of stain.
Cleared the conception about different packing type and packing ratio.
Understood the basic difference between gross weight and net weight.

4.11 Sample & Accesories Section:

Observed how skilled workers work in sample section.


Cleared the conception about different types of sample required to produce a garment.

4.12 Store section:

Learned the Fabric inventory system.


Observed the Shrinkage test report.
Observed the Store management system.

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4.13 IE Section:

Observe IE officer work in floor


Learn about motion study, method study, SMV
Learn about SMV calculation.
Learn about line balancing and none balancing
Learn about line efficiency calculation.
Learn about line production target.
Learn about how to find out worker efficiency.
Learn about how to increase line efficiency.

4.14 QC Section:

Learn about QC section.


Learn about which section are checked by QC section.
Observed QC officers work.
Learned about RQS department.
Observed RQS officers work.
Learned about which section are followed up by RQS section.

4.15 Admin and compliance Section:

Learned about Admin and compliance section.


Observed admin officer work.
Observed compliance officers work.
Observed compliance officer work in floor.

4.16 HR Section:

Learned about HR section.


Observed HR Officers work.

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4.17 ETP Section:

Observed the process of effluent treatment plant


Learned how waste water goes to the equalization tank
Learned about how to control pH and water hardness
Observed the biological chemical used

4.18 Utility Section:

Learned about specification of machines available in utility section


Learned about boilers classification & function.
Observed the working process of boiler.

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CHAPTER-5
Conclusion

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Conclusion:

Two months internship programme in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. was a concluding part of the
B.Sc in Textile Engineering course which was to comprehend my theoretical knowledge along
with practical knowledge. The industrial training gave me the opportunity to work in mills. It
was an experience of normal academic learning. This training gave me actual picture about man,
machine, material, methods and market. During the training period,the whole 60 days were
segmented and scheduled to a systematic routine. I had earned the direct knowledge about the
raw materials, actual running condition of the m/cs, works technologist and administration. This
mill is a well planed with enough expansion facilities. There are wonderful employer and worker
relation. Working environment for the labors is also good. During my training I visited knitting
section, dyeing & finishing section, garments section, store, maintenance, administration section
etc. Everywhere I got cordial behavior from all employees. Above all this training for 60 days in
the Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. had given me a new experience for practical life. Daffodil
International University had given me the field to perform the industrial attachment with Abanti
Colour Tex Ltd. Undoubtedly, this attachment paved me the way to learn more about textile
engineering, industrial practices, industrial management and production process. Besides this
attachment gave me the first opportunity to work in an industry and acquainted me with the
internal sight and sound of textile industries. I believe with all these, the experience of the
industrial attachment will help my future life as a Textile Engineer.

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