W220 Key Intermittent in Ignition Version 01

Created 24th May 2012 Page 1 of 25
W220 2004 S500

Remote Control Key Will Not Work/Rotate/Turn
In Ignition Lock Intermittently
BenzWorld Member ricebubbles
Table of Contents
1. Revisions................................................................................................................................. 1
2. Acknowledgement .................................................................................................................. 1
3. Introduction............................................................................................................................. 1
4. Benzworld Member Experience With The Problem............................................................... 2
5. My Experience With The Problem ......................................................................................... 2
6. Parts of a W220 Remote Control Key .................................................................................... 3
7. How the Remote Control Key Works in a W220 ................................................................... 4
8. Key Fob Battery...................................................................................................................... 5
9. Initial Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key....................................................................... 5
10. Further Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key ................................................................ 6
11. Testing EIS Induction Power Generator Output............................................................... 10
12. Test of EIS Fuses .............................................................................................................. 18
13. Test of Induced Voltages In Actual OEM Remote Control Key ...................................... 18
14. Test of Induced Voltages In Modified Remote Control Key............................................ 23
15. Final Conclusion ............................................................................................................... 25
1. Revisions
2012-05-24 Version 01: Original Document
2. Acknowledgement
The main reference was the BenzWorld Forum:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1473416-help-please.html
with special thanks to BenzWorld Member ‘fatrash’
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1393624-intermittent-key-turning-problem-04-
s500.html ‘bigbodyw140’ had intermittent EIS problem with 2004 S500 4Matic.
http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/222345-s320-cdi-2003-key-does-not-turn-
ignition.html ‘Shaneabbas’ and ‘zam2000’
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1300215-cold-weather-electronic-key-
problems.html ‘carbucci’
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1300215-cold-weather-electronic-key-problems-
3.html ‘Gabby07621’ and ‘Triluxor’
DGN for access to E320 and CLK200.
3. Introduction
Normally after inserting the correct Remote Control Key in the ignition lock (Electronic
Ignition/Starter Switch (EIS) control module (N73)) it will turn instantly to position 1
(accessories), 2 (ignition on) and position 3 (engine start). However it seems that a common
fault in the W220 occurs whereby the correct key will unlock the doors but once inserted in the
ignition will not rotate and appears frozen. In my case this happened intermittently causing huge
frustration when out travelling. Fortunately on one trip it eventually worked after continually
trying and waiting twenty minutes.
4. Benzworld Member Experience With The Problem

‘zam2000’ had intermittent EIS problem. After scanning the forum, and confirm w/ MB Indy
shop, look like the EIS is on the way out. For EIS, it's worth it to shop around, and only do it at
Mercedes specialized shop, since you'll need the Star Diagnostic to transfer code from the old
EIS to the new one. Some places charge the green key cost, some don't. Some require new set of
key, other don't. I got quote anywhere from $760 to $3000! MB Tech in Monterey Park (CA)
just ordered part for me. $512 for part, and $260 for labor, can reuse my old keys, and they won't
even charge anything for the green key. (Transport unlock device). I am told that if the
mechanic follow proper procedures, then you can reuse the old keys. However, if they mess up,
or simply want to take short cut, then it'll cost you a new set of key too.
‘carbucci’ had intermittent EIS problem with 2003 S430 4Matic. Replaced EIS at MB Dealer
and everything OK.
‘Gabby07621’ narrowed the problem to the EIS by warming it with a hairdryer every cold
morning.
‘Triluxor’ established temperature DOES affect the EIS. Whenever it goes below 70F (21C) the
car won't start. As soon as it goes over 74F (23C), it will after a few tries. Above 80F (27C) it
will start EVERY time. In any case, I left the vehicle 3 days at my $tealer (Bill Ussery MB of
Coral Gables) who charged me $300.00 just to say they couldn't find anything wrong with the
ignition. Put the key in, it's immediately recognized. They ran computer tests, no faults
whatsoever. So, they said, drive it for a few days and tell us if the problem resurfaces. Went to
pick it up yesterday at 6:00 pm, made a couple of stops along the way, no problems. This
morning at 7:30, temperature at 73F (23C), the key wasn't recognized at all. So I call the $tealer
once again who said "Bring the car back, we'll trace all the wires and see what's going on.
Incidentally, it may take 5 or 6 hours at $90 an hour." Incredible how Mercedes Benz designed a
system that would prevent anyone from moving the vehicle--including the owner. Well, wound
up taking my car to the $tealer, Bill Ussery in Coral Gables, and they said they'd start by
replacing the EIS... at $1,350. Triluxor hasn’t been on BenzWorld since.
5. My Experience With The Problem

My first experience with this issue was when my Remote Control Key would not turn in the
ignition in my W220 2003 Update S500L. I had just opened the doors remotely and placed the
key in the ignition and noticed that the steering wheel did not lower automatically as usual. The
dashboard was all lit up as usual. The key would not rotate from position 0 (Locked). Cursing
that the batteries in the key must be faulty, I went inside and recovered the second ‘spare’
Remote Control Key which is rarely used. By the time I inserted this key in the lock everything
worked OK and I went on my way, later purchasing new batteries for the other key fob.
The car worked fine with the original key, now with new batteries, for the next two weeks until
once again, first thing in the morning, the key would not turn in the lock. The red light on the
key fob would flash when any of the buttons were pressed. I spent a whole day resoldering the
connections on the key electronic circuit board believing that I had an intermittent connection.
This was rather difficult at my age with failing eyesight and shaky hands. I was rather peeved
when of course it did not fix the problem.
Then after considerable trawling through many BenzWorld threads I tested my car battery with a
digital voltmeter and noticed that voltage after sitting for 24 hours was 12.3V. When I pressed
the remote to open the doors the voltage dropped to below 12V before slowly recovering. I
decided to replace the car battery and was surprised to find that it was still the original German
one from mid 2003 (and had provided service for over 9 years!!). The new battery now reads
12.57V with the car locked and ‘asleep’ after 24 hours of none use.
Replacing the car battery fixed the problem until a very cold morning a few days later. Once
again the key would not turn in the ignition, which was a potential disaster as we were travelling
interstate and a long way from home and workshop/tools etc. After a lot of cursing and then
waiting for about twenty minutes it decided to work again and we were on our way without
having to summons assistance. The key worked fine for the rest of the day.
The next morning, which was also very cold at 5C, the Remote Control Key refused to work
again. By pure luck I managed to get it to rotate by jiggling it in the ignition lock. It seemed to
me that there must be an electrical switch inside the ignition lock which is activated by inserting
the key, thus powering up the Electronic Ignition/Starting Switch (EIS) and initiating the data
reading circuit, which if it recognises the correct code, allows the key to rotate. I suspected that
this switch had dirty contacts. My guess was that with a low car battery voltage, especially on a
cold morning, there was enough resistance in the switch to prevent the EIS from working
properly. The resistance is probably due to dirt and crud build up after nine years of use. The
external appearance of the ignition lock was quite dirty. I decided to flush the lock with
electrical cleaning spray. I poked a match into the ignition to depress the centre part and flushed
it thoroughly with CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner repeating the process several times.
Most of the time the key now operates as intended even with a car battery voltage of 12.2V with
headlights, tail lights and boot/trunk lights operating. However it still occasionally refuses to turn
until you have tried for several minutes. This involves inserting, trying and withdrawing the key
until it eventually operates.
There is obviously something in the electronics which is very marginal and which doesn’t need
much to trip it from non functioning to functioning. It appears to be very temperature sensitive,
malfunctioning when cold (below about 15C).
6. Parts of a W220 Remote Control Key

The four main components of the Remote Control Key (A8/1) are the key fob case, electronic
printed circuit board, the battery holder with fob lid and with two 3V CR2025 button type
batteries, and the mechanical key.
Figure 1 Button Side of a W220 Remote Control Key (A8/1)

Figure 2 Reverse Side of a W220 Remote Control Key (A8/1)
7. How the Remote Control Key Works in a W220

Reference STAR Diagnosis System (SDS), Xentry, Workshop Information System (WIS).
The Remote Control Key (A8/1) emits radio frequency (RF) (In Australia 315 MHz) frequency
modulated (FM) signals to operate the remote control functions of unlocking, locking, and
boot/trunk opening. The two internal batteries in the key fob are used to power these functions.
If these batteries are weak or flat, the key will not unlock the doors or boot/trunk. A mechanical
key is stored inside the key fob and is provided in the event of this situation occurring.
The Remote Control Key also emits infra red (IR) signals to operate the convenience opening
and closing feature. The IR signals are received by either IR sensor built into the two front door
handles. The key needs to be pointing at the handle and within a few metres for the function to
work. Better range is achieved if the receiving door handle is not in direct sunlight. The two
internal batteries in the key fob are used to power the IR emitter for this function
When a Remote Control Key (or a finger for that matter) is inserted in the electronic ignition
switch (EIS or EZS) control unit (ignition lock) (N73), it operates a switch which activates an
AC generator inside the ignition lock. This generator produces a high frequency (118KHz) sine
wave which is inductively coupled to a small coil in the tip of the key fob.
Figure 3 Induction Coil on a Remote Control Key PCB

The AC voltage produced in the coil is rectified and the resulting DC voltage is used to power
the Remote Control Key ignition functions. (The induced DC voltage was measured as 7.6V.)
Using a separate inductive power supply very cleverly avoids reliance on the Remote Control
Key batteries and ensures the Remote Control Key will operate the ignition even if it has internal
flat or weak batteries.
Once powered by the Induction Power Generator the Remote Control Key emits IR signals to,
and receives IR signals from, the Drive Authorisation System (DAS) in the Electronic
Ignition/Starter Switch (EIS) control module (N73). Start-up is enabled only after the transmitter
key (A8/1) is identified by the encrypted data exchange between the
• EIS control unit (N73) and the
• ME-SFI control unit (N3/10) (with gasoline engine).
If the identification of the transmitter key (A8/1) is valid, the rotary lock of the EIS control unit
(N73) is enabled. The transmitter key (A8/1) can now be turned. Once the correct code is
recognised, the EIS allows the initial start procedures to commence, viz;
• rotary lock in EIS released, which allows the key to be turned in the lock to positions 1, 2
and 3, thus starting the car.
• steering wheel resumes it’s operating position (if this function has been previously
activated),
• engine electric suction fan initiates,
• engine control module initiates,
• Automatic Climate Control (ACC) initiates,
• COMAND system initiates,
• gear selector lever lockout mechanism releases,
• any stored values for parameters such as seat and mirror positions, ACC settings, and
COMAND settings etc. which are associated with this particular key are initiated (if this
function has been previously activated).
When a non-recognised key, including my Dummy Test Key, is used the EIS Inductive Power
Supply only operates for about 3 to 4 seconds after the key has been inserted into the Ignition
Lock. When the key is not recognised, the Inductive Power Supply reverts to zero output for
about 30 seconds when it generates another short burst of AC power in an attempt to read the
key. I did not establish how many times it continues to do this before cancelling.
When a key is used that is recognised by the EIS, the Inductive Power Supply operates
continuously until the key is removed.
Note the mechanical lock system in the EIS also prevents the Remote Control Key from being
turned back to position 0 (Locked) and withdrawn from the EIS Ignition Lock unless the gear
selector lever is in ‘P’ or Park.
8. Key Fob Battery

After wasting a lot of time I discovered the battery in the Remote Control Key fob has nothing to
do with the key's ability to start the engine. There is an inductive coil inside the ignition switch
(EIS) that powers the key for starting. The Remote Control Key battery is only used for the
remote control functions.
Changing the batteries in the Remote Control Key fob is very simple. A W220 key takes two 3V
CR2025 button type batteries which are readily available.
9. Initial Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key

If you are experiencing the issue where the key will not routinely turn once inserted into the
ignition lock then the following tests should be performed at the beginning of your
investigations.
• Can you lock/unlock the car with the key fob or do you have to lock and unlock the car
with the metal key?
• When you insert the key in the ignition are you able to move it to position 1, 2 and 3?
• Do you have a second key and have you tried starting with the second key?
• Does the centre part of the ignition lock appear dirty?
10. Further Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key

If the Remote Control Key appears to be frozen and will not turn to position 1, (accessories),
position 2 (ignition on) or position 3 (starting position) it means that the key is not recognized by
the car. This also happens if you try to use a Remote Control Key from another car.
Check these items in the following order.
10.1. Check Car Battery Voltage

According to BenzWorld posters, by far the most common issue causing this problem is that
your car battery is not putting out enough voltage.
• It appears that the ignition circuit is quite sensitive to car battery voltage. The car will
unlock and the instrument cluster will light up when you enter the car. You may have
even been able to start the car just minutes before and the battery may appear to be good
and strong otherwise, and yet it may be weak under load and is not putting out the
minimum required voltage for the ignition switch to read the key.
• Note that the drain/load on the car battery just after unlocking the doors with the remote
is significant and can cause the voltage from a weak battery to drop below the required
level for the ignition to work. On my car, as the remote unlock signal is received and
recognized, the car activates the central unlocking system and unlocks the doors, operates
the headlights and tail lights for 20 seconds, operates the interior lights if it is dark
enough for 20 seconds, flashes the turn indicator lights, and starts the Electronic Ignition
System (EIS) and initiates several other control units as described above. Consequently
the car battery is really hammered for a few minutes after unlocking until the load drops
off as the electronics in the car settle down. The battery voltage may recover enough for
the ignition to now work. This gives the impression of a random fault.
• Other signs of a weak car battery which you may have experienced include, slower rising
of the door locks, slower remote response to open boot/trunk and random and sudden
appearance of BAS/EPS malfunction indication while driving or with the car started.
This BAS/EPS malfunction indication will disappear once the ignition is turned off and
the car is later restarted.
• Once sufficient voltage is made available the key will automatically sync with the car and
you will be able to turn the key instantly after inserting the key fob.
A simple test on the car battery is to measure the voltage first thing in the morning after the
vehicle has been sitting asleep for 12 hours or so. The night before set up your voltmeter on long
leads so that the boot/trunk lid can be closed and the car locked. Place the voltmeter outside the
vehicle and do not activate any functions prior to taking your reading. The voltage should be at
least 12.4V. Make sure to rectify a weak battery condition quickly as you do not want to be
replacing an over worked alternator as well.
10.1.1. Results of Car Battery Voltage Test

The new battery in my W220 reads 12.57V with the car locked and ‘asleep’ after 24 hours of
none use.
10.2. Check Car Charging Function
One additional thing to check is the charging circuit. Some "smart" battery chargers will do this
for you. After a good drive of 60 minutes or so the car battery should be fully charged and read
at least 14.2V with the car running and the charger operating. Turn off large power consumers
such as headlights for this test. If the battery does not have a healthy voltage, suspect the
alternator and associated charging circuits.
10.3. Check Car Battery

You can also test the battery itself with a hydrometer or by performing a load test. Either will
show a battery that has outlived its usefulness. There is a pretty good tutorial on batteries at:
http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html and another one for the hydrometer test at:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa101604c.htm. There's a "poor man's load test" video at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viltQBg2jOQ
10.4. Disconnecting the Car Battery

Of course replacing the car battery means that you may have to go through the entire
reset/synchronisation procedure (windows, seats, mirrors, sunroof, steering angle sensor and
BAS/ESP malfunction indicator). See post #14 at
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...st2216730.html. For more on resetting see;
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...procedure.html.
If you want to avoid the resynchronization, temporarily connect another 12V battery across the
car battery leads before disconnecting them to act as a backup battery. The backup battery can be
a low power battery as long as you do not open, lock or unlock any doors or activate any circuits
whilst it is connected. I use a 12V 5A-Hr House Alarm Battery connected to my charging point
which I installed in the engine compartment. DO NOT USE a battery charger as a backup or at
any time with the car battery disconnected, as the voltage WILL be too high and WILL damage
something. The technique is to ensure that the car is asleep with the boot/trunk lid open and the
bonnet/hood open. I also have the driver’s window open. I connect my 12V 5A-Hr House
Alarm Battery to the charging point in the engine compartment and then disconnect the car
battery in the boot/trunk. Make sure nothing gets activated while the backup battery is
connected, especially lock/unlock, headlights or ignition and starter motor.
10.4.1. Charging Point Inside Engine Compartment

This was a good idea I picked up from BenzWorld posters in threads where owners have had a
flat battery, but could not get into the trunk/boot to charge up. All you need to do is open the
hood/bonnet, remove the lid from the Right (Passenger side for LHD, Drivers side for RHD)
Fuse Box. Connect the negative lead from the charger to the earth point just in front of the fuse
box (or any good earth). Connect the positive lead from the charger to fuse f33, 40A, that runs
air conditioner and blower motor and is constant live. I have soldered a small quick connect tag
onto fuse f33 so that I can simply plug my battery charger onto this tag. If charging at this point
only use a low charge rate setting, eg <4A.
Figure 4 Location of Fuse f33 for an Engine Compartment Battery Charging Point
I decided to include the next photo because the W204 has a purpose built battery test/charging
point in the engine compartment complete with red protective cover.
Figure 5 DVM Reading Battery Voltage in W204
10.5. Checking Car Battery Quiescent Current Draw/Load

Before you decide to replace the car battery, make sure there is no unusually heavy load draining
the battery when the car is turned off and has been at rest for at least twenty minutes. Sometimes
the electronic circuits can develop issues and become heavy continuous users of battery power.
10.5.1. Specified W220 Quiescent Current Draw/Load

Reference: Star Diagnosis System (SDS) Xentry Workshop Information System (WIS) the
quiescent current at the battery terminal for a W220 after the car has been locked for at least 20
minutes and the car has gone to sleep, should be no more than 0.050A or 50mA.
If testing at individual fuses each fuse quiescent current should be no more than 0.020-0.030A or
20-30mA.
10.5.2. Measure Quiescent Current Draw/Load

There are several good links to testing car battery quiescent current draw (also called parasitic
drain).
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1491289-how-measure-quiescent-current-
battery-die.html
How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain - wikiHow
My version.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1666913-w220-s500-measuring-quiescent-
current-parasitic.html
10.5.3. Results of Car Battery Quiescent Current Draw/Load

Tests
The quiescent current draw/load in my S500L is 26-32mA, which is well within the
specification. [<50mA].
10.6. Dirty Ignition Lock Switch

If you suspect that your ignition switch has dirty contacts flush the lock with electrical cleaning
spray. I used a cleaner designed for Air Mass Sensor (MAF) Sensor cleaning which is highly
evaporative and leaves no residue. I poked a match into the ignition to depress the centre part
and flushed it thoroughly with solvent, repeating this several times.
Figure 6 CRC MAF cleaner
10.7. Faulty Key Fob

If you have replaced the car battery and/or the key battery, you may need to leave the key in the
ignition for a few minutes to "reprogram" it. I noticed during the first appearances of the
problem that the dash would sometimes say “ Computing key data. Please wait.” WIS says the
key must be left in the ignition for several hours to reprogram it.
If the second key is recognized by the Electronic Ignition System (EIS) and allows you to start
the car while the first key does not, then the key fob itself is the most likely culprit. This is very
rare, and in this case you have to buy a new key.
Do not buy a used key from eBay etc. Keys CANNOT be reprogrammed. If you just want to
give your key fob a facelift, new outer key cases, with or without a metal key blank, are readily
available on eBay for about $20. You then just swap over your key’s electronics.
A new key fob with electronics is about $120.00 from MB and is already programmed at the
factory.
BenzWorld Member ‘fatrash’ has repaired faulty solder joints in his key electronics, see;
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1269278-electronic-key-not-working.html
Figure 7 Resoldering Key Electronics (NB Different Key PCB to 2003 Update S500L)
Note the difference between fatrash’s W220 (unknown year) and my 2003 Remote Control Key.
Figure 8 (Left) fatrash’s (unknown model and year) and (Right) my W220 2003 S500 Remote Control Key
The two large areas on the pcb’s are to make contact with the battery pack.
10.8. Faulty Ignition Switch

If the battery is putting out sufficient voltage and both keys do not work then the ignition switch
is most likely at fault. If it is not a dirty switch or the switch doesn’t respond to being
flushed/cleaned then it is most likely you need a new ignition which is going to be an expensive
proposition.
11. Testing EIS Induction Power Generator Output

In order to investigate the performance of the Induction Power Generator I decided to measure
the AC signal produced by the ignition lock (Electronic Ignition/Starter Switch (EIS) control
module (N73)).
11.1. Construction of Dummy Test Key

Using parts from an old dismantled electrical transformer, I constructed a small coil on the end
of an old paint brush. I ground the end of the paint brush down to a cylinder of about 3mm
diameter. I added a single piece of scrap transformer metal to the wooden cylinder to act as a
core and bound both together with masking tape. This became the former for the coil and
provided a nice winding surface. I wound approximately a thousand turns of 1.1mm diameter
enamel insulated wire onto the former and soldered some insulated flexible wires for the test
connections.
Figure 9 Test Induction Coil
The exposed coil and connections were wrapped in masking tape and were inserted into an old
empty key fob thus making a dummy test key.
Figure 10 Test Induction Coil Inserted Into an Empty Key Fob
11.2. Baseline Test Using Dummy Test Key

In order to establish a baseline I decided to initially test the Induction Power Generator in our
2008 W204 C220 CDI vehicle. This immediately proved interesting as my Dummy Test Key
once inserted into the lock was able to rotate to positions 1 and 2 without the Drive Authorisation
System being activated. In the W204 there is not the mechanical restriction on key rotation as in
the W220. I do not know why this is the case as the car could still not be taken out of Park.
The AC voltage produced in the coil in my Dummy Test Key by the EIS Induction Power
Generator was measured with a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) and a Cathode Ray Oscilloscope
(CRO) in both my W204 and W220 vehicles. The DVM readings proved to be unreliable, most
likely due to the high frequency of the signals exceeding the DVM’s capability. The DVM
readings were not analysed.
Note the actual voltages as measured with the Dummy Test Key are completely arbitrary and are
dependent on the number of turns wound on the Dummy Test Key coil. They are useful for
comparison purposes only.
11.3. Test 01 Using Dummy Test Key

Test 01 conditions were:
• Tests conducted 09:30 A.M. 28th May 2012.
• Vehicles tested: W204 2008 C220 CDI and W220 2003 Update S500L.
• Both vehicles had been standing overnight.
• Weather cold with ambient 8C.
• Both vehicles were tested 5 minutes after unlocking with driver’s door open.
• W204 C220 Battery Voltage: 12.31V. (Original 2008 battery.)
• W220 S500L Battery Voltage: 12.33V. (New battery May 2012.)
• W204 C220 Key worked OK.
• W220 S500L Key would not initially turn in Lock. After several minutes the key started
working again.
11.3.1. Baseline Tests on W204 C220
Figure 11 Test 01 DVM Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W204 C220
Figure 12 Test 01 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W204 C220
CRO Scale: 1V/division with 10x Probe = 10V/division and 5µs/division
11.3.2. Now Repeat Tests On W220 S500L
Figure 13 Test 01 DVM Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W220 S500L
Figure 14 Test 01 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W220 S500L
11.3.3. Comparison of W204 and W220 with CRO on Same Scale.
Figure 15 Test 01 Comparison of W204 C220 (Left) and W220 S500L (Right) with CRO on same scale
11.3.4. Summary of Test 01 Results Using Dummy Test Key

Note the actual voltages as measured are completely arbitrary and are dependent on the number
of turns wound on the Dummy Test Key coil. They are useful for comparison purposes only.
Test 01 Test 01
Test 01 W220 W220
W204 2003 Update S500L 2003 Update S500L
2008 C220 CDI (When Ignition was (When Ignition was
Ambient 8C not working.) working.)
Ambient 8C Ambient 8C
DVM
8.0V 5.6V 5.6V
AC Volts
CRO
AC Amplitude 85V p-p 63V p-p 63V p-p
Peak to Peak
Calculated CRO
30Vrms 22Vrms 22Vrms
AC Amplitude
CRO
AC Timing 8.5µs 8.5µs 8.5µs
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz 118KHz 118KHz
AC Frequency
Table 1 Summary of Test 01 Results Using Dummy Test Key
11.3.5. Test 01 Conclusion

Note there was no difference in the W220 Key working/not working results because you can
never be sure whether the key is working or not when using the Dummy Test Key as the car
cannot read any key code and therefore doesn’t respond.
After inserting the Remote Control Key and finding it didn’t work I removed it, inserted the
Dummy Test Key and performed the “W220 2003 Update S500L (When Ignition was not
working.)” tests. Within a few minutes I tried the Remote Control Key again and this time it
worked and then retested with the Dummy Test Key with the same test results.
The voltage from the W220 EIS Induction Power Generator is only 74% of the W204 EIS
Induction Power Generator. Whether this is significant or not I do not know, however, because
the problem is intermittent, it could be that the voltage from the Induction Power Generator is
borderline and thus when combined with a cold battery and lower battery voltage it causes the
Remote Control Key to not be authorised.
Because I get the same intermittent result with both Remote Control Keys, I suspect they are not
causing the intermittent problem. It is very unlikely that both keys would have the same issue.
There seems to be something which is causing the output voltage of the W220 Electronic
Ignition System (EIS) Induction Power Generator to be low. The culprit is most likely in the EIS
itself rather than in the communication systems.
I will repeat the tests later in the day when things have warmed up a bit and the key function is
more reliable.
11.4. Test 02 Using Dummy Test Key

• Tests conducted 03:00 P.M. 28th May 2012
• Vehicles tested: W204 2008 C220 CDI and W220 2003 Update S500L.
• Both vehicles had been standing overnight and all day and not driven.
• Weather cool with ambient 14.5C.
• W204 C220 Battery Voltage: 12.37V.
• W220 S500L Battery Voltage: 12.50V.
• W204 C220 Key worked OK.
• W220 S500L Key worked OK.
11.4.1. Test 02 on W204

During these tests the DVM seemed to fluctuate a lot so I only analysed the CRO readings.
Figure 16 Test 02 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W204

11.4.2. Test 02 on W220
Figure 17 Test 02 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W220

11.4.4. Summary of Test 02 Results Using Dummy Test Key
Test 02 Test 02
Test 02 W220 W220
Ambient 14.5C not working.) working.)
Ambient 14.5C Ambient 14.5C
DVM
Not Reliable N/A Not Reliable
AC Volts
CRO
AC Amplitude 85Vp-p N/A 63Vp-p
Peak to Peak
Calculated CRO
30Vrms N/A 22Vrms
AC Amplitude
CRO
AC Timing 8.5µs N/A 8.5µs
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz N/A 118KHz
AC Frequency
11.4.5. Test 02 Conclusion

The Dummy Test Key induced coil voltages as measured by the DVM in both the W204 and
W220 were higher than in the morning Test 01, but both readings fluctuated markedly. They
have been discarded. The CRO readings on the other hand were very stable and exactly the same
as for Test 01. Once again the W220 Induction Power Generator is only 73-74% of the W204
Induction Power Generator Voltage.
The next step is to measure several other MBs of similar vintage. Unfortunately I do not know
anyone with another W220.
11.5. Test 03 on Friend’s E320 and CLK200 Using Dummy Test

Key
• Tests conducted 11:00 A.M. 22nd June 2012
• Vehicles tested: W211 2004 E320 and W209 2005 CLK200 Kompressor
• Both vehicles had been standing overnight and had not been driven.
• Weather cold and wet with ambient 10C.
11.5.1. Test 03 on W211 E320
Figure 19 Test 03 on W211 E320

Figure 20 Test 03 DVM Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W211 E320
Figure 21 Test 03 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W211 E320
11.5.2. Test 03 on W209 CLK200 Kompressor
Figure 22 Test 03 on W209 CLK200K
Figure 23 Test 03 A2 DVM Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W209 CLK200K
Figure 24 Test 03 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W209 CLK200K
11.5.3. Comparison of Test Results for W204 C220, W211 E320,
W209 CLK200K and W220 S500L,
Summary of Test 01 and 03 Results Using Dummy Test Key for W204 C220, W211 E320,
W209 CLK200K and W220 S500L, with CRO on Same Scale.
Figure 25 Left to Right

W204 C220, W211 E320 and W209 CLK200K, W220 S500L
with CRO on same scale
Test 01 Test 03 Test 01

Test 03
W204 W211 W220
W209
2008 2004 2003 Update
2005 CLK200K
C220 CDI E320 S500L
Ambient 10C
Ambient 14.5C Ambient 10C Ambient 14.5C
DVM
8.0Vrms 10.7Vrms 11.7Vrms 5.6Vrms
AC Volts
CRO
AC Amplitude 85Vp-p 85Vp-p 87Vp-p 63Vp-p
Peak to Peak
Calculated CRO
30Vrms 30Vrms 31Vrms 22Vrms
AC Amplitude
CRO
AC Timing 8.5µs 8.5µs 8.5µs 8.5µs
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz 118KHz 118KHz 118KHz
AC Frequency
Normalised
97% 97% 100% 71%
Comparison
11.5.4. Test Conclusion

The Dummy Test Key induced coil voltages as measured by the CRO were very stable and
consistent. The W220 Induction Power Generator output is only about 71% when compared to
three other equal vintage Mercedes Benz vehicles.
It seems that the EIS Induction Power Generator output is reduced for some reason. This could
be high resistance fuses, fuse connections or cable connectors in the appropriate EIS supply
lines. It may also be a faulty voltage regulator in the supply to the EIS Induction Power
Generator circuit.
12. Test of EIS Fuses
12.1. EIS Wiring Diagram
Figure 26 EIS Wiring Diagram

The voltage drop across f87/7.5A (FB Cockpit Left (RHD)) was measured with the key out, and
key in.
Battery Side of f87 EIS Side of f87
Key Out 12.69V 12.69V
Key In and Not Operational 12.60V 12.58V
Key In and Operational 12.54V 12.52V
Table 4 Voltage Drop Across f87/7.5A
12.2. Conclusion
The voltage drop across f87 seems reasonable. The voltage drop across X4/10 f2/60A and
connectors Z4/3 and W36/2 have not been measured yet.
13. Test of Induced Voltages In Actual OEM Remote Control

Key
The tests conducted with the Dummy Test Key were useful to establish that the EIS was
producing an AC frequency in the Induction Power Supply and that it was being inductively
coupled into a Remote Control Key once inserted into the lock. The Dummy Test Key also
provided useful comparison results between similar vintage Mercedes vehicles, albeit not exactly
the same model.
These Dummy Test Key tests were ‘open circuit’ tests, ie the coil had no load connected to it and
any induced voltage thus produced no current.
I decided to measure the voltage induced in an actual Remote Control Key by the EIS once the
key is inserted into the lock. This type of test is a ‘fully loaded’ test, ie the internal coil is
connected to it’s normal circuits and thus any induced voltage will produce current and activate
the circuits. It is a more meaningful test but more difficult to execute. It requires some very
careful and fiddly soldering and should only be undertaken by someone with considerable
electronic experience. Things to avoid are damage caused by electrostatic voltages, excess heat
and rough or splattered soldering.
As explained previously the EIS generates a 118KHz sine wave which is inductively picked up
in a small coil in the tip of the Remote Control Key fob. The coil is connected to the two tabs at
the left edge of the coil in the next figure. The tab at the right end of the coil is not connected and
is just for fastening that end of the coil.
Figure 27 Remote Control Key Induction Coil Wiring Diagram

I traced the induction coil connections as far as possible. Some tracks disappear under surface
mount components, and the coil is connected to a diode and what I suspect is a zener diode
resulting in a roughly regulated half wave DC power supply. The voltage produced cannot
exceed the maximum voltage rating marked on the large electrolytic capacitor, the large yellow
component shown just below the coil in the next figure.
Figure 28 Battery Side of Remote Control Key PCB Showing Induction Coil
The capacitor has a value of 47µF 10V and is used to store the DC voltage produced. It’s time
constant is many minutes, ie it holds the voltage charge and powers the key electronics long after
the EIS has stopped generating the AC frequency.
I soldered two wires across the coil (white (AC) and black (0V)) and also one wire (red (+V)) on
to the (red band) end of the capacitor. The modified key could still be inserted into the key fob
but without the battery holder and batteries. These are not needed anyway.
Figure 29 Battery Side of Remote Control Key PCB Showing Test Wires Soldered Across the Induction Coil
and the Storage Capacitor
13.1. Test 04 Using S500L OEM Remote Control Key

• Tests conducted 09:00 A.M. 26th June 2012
• Vehicles tested: W220 S500L and W204 C220 CDI
• Both vehicles had been standing overnight and had not been driven.
• Weather cold and wet with ambient 11C.
• The S500L OEM Remote Control Key would obviously not operate the W204 EIS.
• The S500L OEM Remote Control Key would not turn in the W220 EIS.
13.1.1. Test 04 on W220 S500L
Figure 30 Test 04 on W220 S500L
Figure 31 Test 04 DVM Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key DC Output in W220 S500L
Figure 32 Test 04 CRO Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key AC Output in W220 S500L
13.1.2. Test 04 on W204 C220 CDI
Figure 33 Test 04 on W204 C220 CDI
Figure 34 Test 04 DVM Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key DC Output in W204 C220 CDI
Figure 35 Test 04 CRO Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key AC Output in W204 C220 CDI

The voltages as measured are as accurate as my instruments. Note the flattened ‘top’ of the
induced AC voltage is due to the loading of the half wave rectification circuit.
Test 04
Test 04 W220
W204 2003 Update S500L
2008 C220 CDI (When Ignition was
Ambient 11C not working.)
Ambient 11C
DVM
7.60V 7.50V
DC Volts
CRO
AC Amplitude 26Vp-p 25Vp-p
Peak to Peak
CRO 8.5µs 8.5µs
Test 04
Test 04 W220
W204 2003 Update S500L
2008 C220 CDI (When Ignition was
Ambient 11C not working.)
Ambient 11C
AC Timing
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz 118KHz
AC Frequency
Table 5 Summary of Test 04 Results Using S500L OEM Remote Control Key
13.2. Test 05 Using S500L OEM Remote Control Key

The test using the S500L OEM Remote Control Key was repeated later in the day when the key
was functioning correctly in the S500L EIS.

• Tests conducted 18:30 26th June 2012
• Vehicles tested: W220 S500L.
• The vehicle had been standing overnight and had not been driven.
• Weather cold and wet with ambient 12.9C.
• The vehicle was tested 5 minutes after unlocking with driver’s door open.
• All functions of the Remote Control Key were operating correctly.
13.2.1. Test 05 on W220 S500L
Figure 37 Test 05 DVM Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key DC Output in W220 S500L
Figure 38 Test 05 CRO Reading S500L OEM Remote Control Key AC Output in W220 S500L
Test 04 Test 05
Test 04 W220 W220
Ambient 11C Ambient 12.9C
DVM
7.60V 7.50V 7.56V*
DC Volts
CRO 26Vp-p 25Vp-p 24Vp-p
Test 04 Test 05
Test 04 W220 W220
Ambient 11C Ambient 12.9C
AC Amplitude
Peak to Peak
CRO
AC Timing 8.5µs 8.5µs 8.5µs
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz 118KHz 118KHz
AC Frequency
Table 6 Summary of Test 05 Results Using S500L OEM Remote Control Key
* The initial voltage measured was 7.59V and it immediately drops to 7.50 and then recovers to
7.56V within a minute.

The induced voltage in the Remote Control Key seems below what it should be and certainly
below the voltage induced in other similar vintage vehicles. The electronics in the Remote
Control Key may be sensitive to low voltage and thus not communicating with the EIS
adequately and thus preventing authorisation.
14. Test of Induced Voltages In Modified Remote Control

Key
I decided to add an extra 10% more turns to the induction coil in one of my W220 OEM Remote
Control Keys to see if this would improve the performance of the key once inserted into the EIS.
14.1. Rewinding Remote Control Key Induction Coil

The Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) coil contains 137 turns of enamel insulated copper
wire of 0.09mm diameter. It has a resistance of 3.1 Ohms. In removing the OEM coil I
damaged the windings and was forced to rewind anyway. It was rather fiddly and required a
jeweller’s magnifier headset and a very fine soldering tip to do.
I used 0.11mm diameter wire from an old transformer. About 1.2m of wire is needed and goes
on in two layers starting at the tab at the upper right end in the next figure and finishing at the
lower right tab. The wiring is anti-clockwise looking from the double tab end. I suspect the
wiring orientation doesn’t matter but follow the start and finish winding points as per the OEM
coil just to be sure.
Figure 39 Induction Coil Former in Remote Control Key

Be careful not to damage the very brittle ferrite rod core sitting in the plastic former. I did and
had to super glue it back together.
137 + 10% = 150 turns. Open circuit voltage should increase by 10%.
Figure 40 Remote Control Key Induction Coil Rewound with 150 Turns
14.1.1. Test 06 on W220 S500L

• Tests conducted 11:30 27th June 2012
• Vehicles tested: W220 S500L.
• The vehicle had been standing overnight and had not been driven.
• Weather cold with ambient 11.0C.
• The vehicle was tested 5 minutes after unlocking with driver’s door open.
• The Remote Control Key was not working at the beginning of the test but just decided to
work after a minute or so.
Figure 41 Test 06 DVM Reading S500L Modified (150T) Remote Control Key DC Output in W220 S500L
Test 05 Test 06 Test 06
W220 W220 W220
2003 Update S500L 2003 Update S500L 2003 Update S500L
OEM Coil Modified Coil 150T Modified Coil 150T
(When Ignition was (When Ignition was (When Ignition was
not working.) not working.) working.)
Ambient 11.0C Ambient 11.0C Ambient 11.0C
DVM
7.50V 7.60V 7.60V
DC Volts
CRO
AC Amplitude 25Vp-p Not Measured Not Measured
Peak to Peak
CRO
AC Timing 8.5µs Not Measured
Period
Calculated CRO
118KHz Not Measured
AC Frequency
Table 7 Summary of Test 06 Results Using S500L Modified (150T) Remote Control Key

The induced voltage now limits at 7.60V most of the time and is obviously the zener diode
voltage regulator doing it’s job. There was no apparent difference with the working or not
working issue so the key can be ruled out as the cause of the problem.
15. Final Conclusion
Having ruled out car battery condition, remote control keys, and quiescent current drain on the
car battery as the culprits, it remains to investigate the Electronic Ignition System (EIS or EZS)
itself. There is obviously something in the EIS which is sensitive to temperature and is most
likely a poor solder joint or a connector.
However access to the EIS in a RHD W220 is not explained in WIS. For a LHD W220 the
procedure involves removing the centre COMAND system and removing the EIS through that
aperture. For a RHD it seems that access is only available through the Instrument Cluster
aperture.
At the moment I keep putting this project off for another day. To be continued.

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What is causing the intermittent issue with the remote control key not working in the ignition?

What is causing the intermittent issue with the remote control key not working in the ignition?

What tests were performed to diagnose the problem?

What tests were performed to diagnose the problem?

Created 24th May 2012 Page 1 of 25

W220 2004 S500

DGN for access to E320 and CLK200.

4. Benzworld Member Experience With The Problem

5. My Experience With The Problem

6. Parts of a W220 Remote Control Key

Figure 1 Button Side of a W220 Remote Control Key (A8/1)

Figure 2 Reverse Side of a W220 Remote Control Key (A8/1)

7. How the Remote Control Key Works in a W220

Figure 3 Induction Coil on a Remote Control Key PCB

8. Key Fob Battery

9. Initial Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key

10. Further Tests To Diagnose An Intermittent Key

Check these items in the following order.

10.1. Check Car Battery Voltage

10.1.1. Results of Car Battery Voltage Test

10.3. Check Car Battery

10.4. Disconnecting the Car Battery

10.4.1. Charging Point Inside Engine Compartment

Figure 5 DVM Reading Battery Voltage in W204

10.5. Checking Car Battery Quiescent Current Draw/Load

10.5.1. Specified W220 Quiescent Current Draw/Load

10.5.2. Measure Quiescent Current Draw/Load

How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain - wikiHow

10.5.3. Results of Car Battery Quiescent Current Draw/Load

10.6. Dirty Ignition Lock Switch

Figure 6 CRC MAF cleaner

10.7. Faulty Key Fob

10.8. Faulty Ignition Switch

11. Testing EIS Induction Power Generator Output

11.1. Construction of Dummy Test Key

Figure 10 Test Induction Coil Inserted Into an Empty Key Fob

11.2. Baseline Test Using Dummy Test Key

11.3. Test 01 Using Dummy Test Key

11.3.2. Now Repeat Tests On W220 S500L

11.3.4. Summary of Test 01 Results Using Dummy Test Key

11.3.5. Test 01 Conclusion

11.4. Test 02 Using Dummy Test Key

11.4.1. Test 02 on W204

Figure 16 Test 02 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W204

11.4.2. Test 02 on W220

Figure 17 Test 02 CRO Reading Dummy Test Key AC Output in W220

11.4.3. Comparison of W204 and W220 with CRO on Same Scale.

11.4.5. Test 02 Conclusion

11.5. Test 03 on Friend’s E320 and CLK200 Using Dummy Test

11.5.1. Test 03 on W211 E320

Figure 19 Test 03 on W211 E320

11.5.2. Test 03 on W209 CLK200 Kompressor

Figure 22 Test 03 on W209 CLK200K

Figure 25 Left to Right

Test 01 Test 03 Test 01

11.5.4. Test Conclusion

Figure 26 EIS Wiring Diagram

13. Test of Induced Voltages In Actual OEM Remote Control