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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
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Chap... .... Copyright No
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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

^
 MARGARET BLAIR

SYSTEM
..OF..

Garment Drafting.

USED IN
SCHOOL FOR GIRLS, AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT OF STATE
UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA,
AND.
.

JAMES INDUSTRIAL TRAINING INSTITUTE,

MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.

COPYRIGHTED

1897:

H. L. COLLINS COMPANY,
ST. PAUL, MINN.
 A

Entered according to Act of Congress in tbe year 1897,

by Margaret Blair, in the Office of the Librarian
of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

rtVww'\\j,jv'-Vvd

s s
 INDEX
Page
System of grading 8
Implements Used in Cutting and Making Gar-
ments 9
Instructions for Taking Measures 11
Sleeve Measurements 12
Child's Drawers 15
Child's Mght Gown 16
Child's Apron 20
Child's Waist and Sleeve 24
Drawers 31
Under Skirt . 34
Mght Gown 37
Chemise 40
Corset Cover 44
Shirt Waist 50
Plain Waist 57
Sleeves - 63
The French Bias Dart 66
The Seamless Waist 73
Princess Dress 74
Jacket 78
Dress Skirt 83
Boy's Sailor Waist and Collar 89
Boy's Sleeve 93
Boys's Pants 93
 INTRODUCTION.

In submitting to the public the result of years of

labor and experience, I feel that I am responding
to a genuine need and filling a place that has long
been vacant or at best but inadequately filled by
the use of patterns. My system is primarily for
use in drafting underclothing, aprons and child-
ren's dresses, but it can also be used with the best
of results in dressmaking. This system is so sim-
ple that it can be taught to children, and therefore
might, without difficulty, be used in the public
schools.
Beauty in personal appearance is often almost
destroyed by the lack of knowledge how not to
spoil the beautiful gift of nature. This knowl-
edge can be best inculcated in the children, and a
wonderful change would soon be noticed in the
appearance of young women, if in the public
schools the little girls were taught what is proper
to wear and how to make their clothing. The art
of sewing really antedates history, for the first
clothing of man, the skins of animals, were rough-
ly sewn together, yet it has never, until recently,
been developed scientifically along utilitarian
lines.
As an sewing has long been popular and the
art,
knowledge of making tapestries, embroideries and
other beautiful needlework has, for centuries,
been thought much of, but the more useful art of
making garments and making them beautifully
has been allowed to lie unused. The problem of
putting this art on a scientific basis and making
of it a part of the education^of women is now being
solved.
A hundred years ago our great-great-grand-
mothers were employing nearly all of their time-
not only in making garments to wear but in —
spinning and w^eaving the cloth of which they
were made, and in addition to this, all of the
table linen, bed linen and towels must be manu-
factured by the maidens' own hands. No doubt
this constant employment became at times irk-
some, but fingers were deft and the end toward
which she was striving was most alluring, name-
ly, a well-filled linen chest and a large stock of

clothing, which we know the young matron of

1797 had in store.
And she was proudly conscious that everything
was perfect of its kind, for every thread had been
woven and every stitch taken by her own indus-
trious fingers. Has there ever been a woman, I
wonder, who has not felt the deepest pride in her
own handiwork, if she is so fortunate as to know
how to use her hands? These are her best ser-
vants, but, like all servants, they must be trained
or they can not obey the dictates of her mind.
In order to reach the state of cultured woman^
hood toward which we all aspire we must study
something besides literature and the arts we —
must study civilized dressing. A bird sings its
sweetest notes after its morning, bath is taken and
its feathers plumed; so will we all do better any-
thing we undertake if we know how to dress well
and suitably, ^^'e may think that the making of
garments and keeping them in repair is a thing
to which we do not wish to become a slave. Then
let us master this art, and when we know how, it
will all become so easy that it will not take up so
much of the precious time which we long to de-
vote to other things.
 SYSTEM OF GRADING.
The understanding of principles makes the work
easy, hence the first thing in the course is the in-
culcating of those principles which are the foun-
dation of needlework.
The first grade pupils are taught the different
stitches used in sewing; basting, the different
seams, hemming, patching, flannel stitches, but-
tonholing and darning.
For children we arrange the work somewhat
differently, using ap open canvas for the first sam-
pler stitches which are sewn with bright colored
thread on a gray or brown canvas. Hemming,
patching, darning and button holing should be
taught as second and third grade work in chil-
dren's classes, and for them the work should be
kept simpler in all its grades than for older pu-
pils.
The aim should be to see that each step in the
work has been so thoroughly taken that the next
step becomes easy. If properly taught and the
child has taken up the primary work at the age
of six, she should be able to make her own dresses
by the time she is fourteen.
For older pupils the drafting and making of
underwear should be taught in the second grade.
The third grade pupils may be taught the draft-
ing and making of shirt waists and cotton dresses.
 GARMENT DRAFTING 9

The fourth grade work consists of the drafting

and making of children's garments. After these
steps have been taken, dressmaking may be taken
up, and to become a finished dressmal^er requires
from one to two years of study.

IMPLEMENTS USED IN CUTTING AND MAK

ING GARMENTS.
In worlv of any kind success depends largely up-
on the tools used and this is especially true in
garment making.
The first thing needful is a suitable pair of
shears. Scissors and shears are made in various
sizes and styles; strictly speaking, every pair over
six inches in length should be called shears. Bent
shears are best for cutting heavy material as they
are so shaped as to raise the material as little as
possible from the table. Avoid dropping your
shears or scissors upon the floor as the concussion
they thus sustain often loosens their adjustment
and may cause uneven cutting.
The next implement with which the work basket
should be supplied is the needle. Needles have
been used by women of every country, in every
age. The common sewing needle is made from
steel wire and is manufactured almost exclusively
in England. Three kinds of needles are in use
for ordinary sewing; they are Sharps, Ground-
downs and Betweens. Of these Sharps are the
longest and Betweens are the shortest.
Grounddowns are best for school work and for
all beginners. All needles are numbered from 1
to 12 number 1 being the coarsest and number 12
;

the finest.
10 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

Always use thread the size of the warp of the

material upon which you are working. Do uot
use too long a thread and always cut your thread,
never bite or break it. Use a number 8 needle
with number 50 to TO thread and a number 10 nee-
dle with number 80 to 100 thread.
A small pin cushion well supplied with the best
pins is a necessary adjunct to the work basket.
Those made of aluminum are excellent and do not
rust. Thimbles made of aluminum are also very
good and do not soil or irritate the finger.
The other articles belonging to the work box are
a 60 inch tape line, an emery bag and a piece of
wax.
In all the illustrations in this volume each
square, the sides of which measure three-six-
teenths of an inch, represents a full inch.
 GARMENT DRAFTING 11

TNSTEUCTIONS FOR TAKIMG MEASURES.

First tie a cord tiglitlT around tlie waist so as
to find correct waist line.
first measure taken is the neck measure and
The
istaken around the fullest part of the neck.
In taking the bust measure stand behind the
person and measure over the fullest part of the
bust.
The waist measure should be taken tightly
around the foot of the waist.
The front measurement is taken from the cen-
ter of back of neck to waist line in front.
The length of back is taken from back of neck
straight down to waist line, another back meas-
urement is taken from the shoulder to w^aist line,
this is sometimes called the back balance.
The under arm measure is taken from well up
under the arm straight down to the waist line.
The chest measure is taken straight across the
chest. Width of back is taken straight across
the widest part of back.
The shoulder measure is taken from neck to
shoulder point.
Dart No. 1 is measured from waist line to fullest
part of bust.
Dart Xo. 2 is measured one-half inch higher
than dart No. 1.
12 MARGARET BLAIR SYvSTEM

SLEEVE MEASUREMENTS.
The arm's eye measurement
is taken around the
arm below the shoulder bone.
just
The next measure is from shoukler to elbow, the
next from elbow to wrist. The elbow measure is
taken around elbow with elbow half bent.
The inside measure is taken from the hollow
of elbow to arm's eye.
The hand measure is taken around the fullest
part of the hand.
14 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM
 GARMENT DRAFTING 15

CHILD'S DRAWEES.

To make a pair of child's drawers requires from

one to one and one-half yards of material. Two
measurements are taken, the first, around the
smallest part of the waist; the second, from the
waist line over the hip to the knee.
First measure on fold of paper the required
length from bottom up, then mark for the width of
bottom one-half of band measure.
To find seat line, measure downward from 1
five-eights of the length to 3 from this point meas-
;

ure out three-fourths of the length, then connect

this point with 2 by an inward curve.
To find width of top, measure out from 1 four-
sevenths of band and mark, from this point meas-
ure up two and one-half inches to 6, connect 6 with
4 at seat line by a straight line and connect 1 and
6 by a straight line.
Place the pattern on the folded material having
the bottom on a woof thread, pin and cut accord-
ing to the pattern. Make an opening on each
side and finish with a gusset.
16 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

CHILD'S NIGHT GOWN.

The measurements taken for the child's night
gown illustrated on the opposite page and de-
scribed below were as follows:
Neck, 11 inches.
Bust, 25 inches.
Waist, 23 inches.
Back, llf inches.
Back balance, 10^ inches.
Under arm, 6 inches.
Shoulder, 4 inches.
Chest, 10 inches.
Width of back, 9^ inches.
First draw a horizontal line one inch from the
edge of paper and six inches long.
1 is one-quarter inch from top, 2 is three inches
from 1 and 3 is the length of yoke. Measure one
and one quarter inches from 1 to 4. From 2 meas
ure out seven inches to get the correct slant for
the shoulder. Measure up one inch from 3 and
out one-half of the width of the back to 6. 7 is the
length of the shoulder which is obtained by con-
necting 4 and 5 by a slanting line then measuring
on this line from 4 the length of the shoulder.
Connect 7 and 6 by slightly inward curve which
is 8, and connect 3 and by an outward curve.
For the front of the yoke draw a horizontal line
 GARMENT DRAFTING 17

3
 GARMENT DRAFTING 19

seven inches long and measure down two inches

to 1, from this point measure five inches to 2 then
from top of line out one and one-half inches to 3.
From 1 measure out eight inches to 4. Measure
one inch above 2 out one-half of the chest meas-
ure, this line will be 5. Draw the neck curve 6,
then the length of the shoulder measuring from
3 and connect the shoulder with 5 by an inward
curve, then connect 5 with 2 hj an outward curve
which will be 9.
For the sleeve measure on fold of paper the
length of inside measure, always adding three and
one-half inches for the curve at the top. Measure
up from 1 one-half inch to 2, then up the length of
the inside to 3, then out the width desired and
mark 4. Slope two and one-half inches in at the
wrist or more if desired. Draw a curved line 6,
beginning four inches in from the top of fold to 4;
from 4 draw a curved line 7 to the edge of fold.
Connect 4 and 5 with the line 8 and 1 and 5 with
the line 9.

Another very good pattern for a child's night

gown iscut exactly like the child's apron on page
21 with the exception of the neck which is
cut like the child's Waist, on page 25.
20 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

CHILD'S APEON.
For the back draw a horizontal line the length
of the paper. From 1 to 2 measure three and
one-fourth inches; from 1 to 3 the length of back;
from 3 to 4 the under arm measure; from 3 to 5
the length from waist to bottom of skirt;
6 is one and one half inches from dot-
ted line; 7 is always seven inches from
dotted line and marks the shoulder slant.
8 is the width of back adding on one and one-quar-
ter inches to bring the seam under the arm. 9 is
the width on waist line slanting out one incl].
10 is the back balance. 11 is the shoulder, 12
marks the arm's eye curve, 13 the neck curve, 14
is the slanting line below waist line and 15 is a

slightly curved line at the bottom.

For the front draw a horizontal line the length
of your paper. 1 is two inches from top of line;
from 1 to 2 is five inches for a child, from 2 to 3 is
the length of the under arm measure; from 3 to 4
is the length below the waist line; 5 is two inches
out from top of line; from 1 to 6 is always eight
inches; from 2 to 7 is the bust line which is obtain-
ed by subtracting the width of back from the bust
measurement, and making the back one and one-
quarter inches wider. This must be taken off on
the front. 8 is the slant on the waist line; 9 is the
GARMENT DRAFTING 21
 GARMENT DRAFTING 23

chest measure and is taken one inch above the

bust line.
Measure off four inches on shoulder slant from
5 and mark off two inches, this line is 10. 11 is the
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line and
touching the chest line; 12 is the neck curve from
shoulder to two and one-quarter inches below 1.
13 is the curve at bottom.

Fullness at the neck may be allowed if desired.

24 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

CHILD'S WAIST AND SLEEVE.

The measurements taken for the waist illus-
trated here were as given below, and the waist
was made to fit a child 7 years old.
Neck, 11 inches.
Bust, 25 inches.
Waist, 23 inches.
Front, 14 inches.
Back, llf inches.
Back bal., 10^ inches.
Under arm, 6 inches.
Shoulder, 4 inches.
Chest, 10 inches.
Width back 9| inches.
For the back draw a horizontal line one inch
from the edge of paper. From top of line mark
down one-quarter inch to 1, from 1 to 2 measure
three inches, from 1 to 3 the length of back, and
from 3 to 4 the under arm measurement.
From 1 draw out one and one-fourth inches to 5;
from 2 measure out six inches to 6 for slant of
shoulder; from 4 mark out on dotted line the
width of back to 7; from 3 to 8 the width of back
on waist line; for each additional inch of waist
measure add on one-eighth inch. 9 is the length
of shoulder measured out on shoulder slant from
5. 10 is the back balance taken from center of
GARMENT DRAFTING 25

<0 "^
 GARMENT DRAFTING 27

back ou waist line to shoulder point and deter-

mines where the shoulder seam should be; 11 is
the arm's eye curve.
For the front, draw a horizontal line the length
of pai^er. From top of paper mark down two
inches to 1. From 1 to 2 is always five inches,
and from 2 to 3 is the underarm measure. Now,
from top of line mark out two inches to 4, from 1
to 5mark out eight inches to get shoulder slant.
From 2 to (3 is the bust measure after taking off

the width of back.

3 to 7 is the width of waist line of front; to find
how wide to make the front measure the back on
waist line and subtract from the Avaist measure,
then mark the remainder out on temporary waist
line from 7 to 3.

8 the chest measure taken one inch above bust

is

line; 9 is the length of shoulder from 4 out on

shoulder slant; 10 is the arm's eye curve from
shoulder to bust line touching chest line; 11 is the
neck curve from 4 to one and one-quarter inch be-
low 1; the measurement used to get correct
12 is

waist line and is taken from center of neck to

waist line in front.
The measurements taken for the child's sleeve
were as below^ and the sleeve was made for a child
of seven.
From shoulder to elbow, 9^ inches.
From elbow to wrist, 6^ inches.
Inside from arm's eye to elbow, 6 inches.
Elbow, 8 inches.
Hand, 6^ inches.
First measure dowm from top of paper the
length from shoulder to elbow to dotted line 1.
From 1 to 2 the length from elbow to wrist; from
28 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

2 to 3 always mark off one and one-half inches for

slant at wrist.
Prom 1 to 4 inside measure from el-
mark the
bow to arm's eye; from 4 to 5 always mark one
and one-half inches for the curve of under sleeve.
From top of line mark in four inches to 6; from 5
measure out one-half of arm's eye less one and
one-half inches to 7. 5 to 8 is one and one-half
inches more than one-half of arm's eye measure.
From 4 mark off one-half of the distance from 5
to 7, this gives the line 4 to 9. From 1 always
mark in one and one-half inches for curve; from 10
mark off one-half less one inch of elbow measure
to 11. From 10 to 12 is one inch more than one-
half of elbow measure. Measure from 3 to 13 one-
half inch and mark from 13 to 14 one-half of hand
measure less one inch. From 13 to 15 one inch
more than half of hand measure. Connect 13 and
15 with straight line; 4 to 13 an inward curve;
from 7 to 14 an outward curve; from 8 to 15 an
outward curve; 4 to top of line with an outward
curve 6 to 8 is an outward curve and 4 to 7 an in-
;

ward curve.
For the collar mark down one inch to 1 and out
from top of line one-half of neck measure, then
mark in one-half inch to 2. From 1 mark down
one inch to 3. At the end of top line mark down
one inch, connect 1 and 2 with an inward curve
which is the top of the collar. Connect 2 and 4
with a straight line which is the center of front,
and connect 3 and 4 with an outward curve. This
curve is joined to the neck of the dress.
30 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM
 GARMENT DRAFTING 31

DEAWERS.
For a pair of drawers two to two and one-half
yards of material, thirty-six inches wide is re-
quired. If lace is used for trimming, one and one-
half the width of the bottom is required, but if
embroidery is used, but one and one-third the
width will be needed.
Two measurements are required for drafting-
drawers. The first is the band measurement and
is taken around the waist, the second is the length

and is measured from the waist over the hip to the

knee.
On fold of papermeasure from bottom up the
required length and mark at 1. At bottom from
fold of paper measure out one-half of band meas-
ure which is the width of bottom of draw^ers and
mark 2. For the seat line, measure down from 1
one-half of the length to 3; from this point meas-
ure out three-quarters of the length for width of
seat, then connect 4 and 2 by an inward curve.
For width of top of front, measure from 1 four-
sevenths of the band measure to 5, from this point
measure up two and one-half inches and mark 6,
connect 6 with 4 by a slightly inward curve and
connect 6 and 1 by a straight line.
For back of drawers measure out from 5 three
inches and mark 7, then measure from 6 up two
32 , MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

and one-lialf iuches and out two inches to 8, con-

nect this point with 4 by an outward curve and
connect i and 1 by a straight line.
, Cut the pattern by the outside pencil mark, then
unfold the i^aper and cut the front by the pencil
mark. Cut the band lengthwise of the material,
make it three inches wide and the length of the
Avaist measure, allowing one inch for lapping at
each opening.
To draft the yoke, first find the size of the
square by dividing the waist measure by four, al-
ways adding one and one-half inches for the slant
on the hip.

If the band measure twenty-four inches as

is

in our illustration, draft the square seven and one

half inches. In front measure down three inches
to 1. For very slight figures it is only necessary
to measure down two and one-half inches from the
front and two inches from the back. Measure out
on square six inches to 2, then down from the
corner two and one-half inches to 3. Measure
down from 1 three and one-half inches to 4, con-
nect 1 and 2 by an inward curve, connect 2 and 3
by a straight line, 3 and 4 by a straight line and 1
and 4 by a straight line which will be the middle
of the front.
For the back draft a square the same size as for
the front and measure down two and one-half
inches to 1, out at top of square six inches to 2
and down from the corner two and one-half inches
to 3, measure down from 1 three inches. Connect
1 and 2 by an inward curve, 2 and 3 by a straight
line and 3 and 4 by an outward curve.
Fold the material leniithwise, the width of the
 OARMENT DRAFTING 33

pattern from one of the edges and pin together,

place the pattern even with the raw edge of the
cloth and j)in firmly, cut both thicknesses by the
back and trace the front; remove the pattern and
cut the upper fold of cloth by the tracing; cut the
other leg by placing the one already cut on the
cloth with the right sides together and the bottom
on a woof thread of the material. Make with
felled seams and finish with oussets.
34 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

UXDER SKIRT.

To make a skirt about thr^e and one-half yards

around bottom requires four and one-half yards of
material thirty-six inches wide, and more if ruifles
are desired. Two measurements are required for
drafting a skirt.
The hip measure is taken six inches below the
waist line from the center of front to center of
back. Length is taken in front from waist line to
bottom two inches for hem.
of skirt allowing
On measure down six inches to 1,
fold of paper
then measure the required length and mark 2,
measure out from 1 on hip line to 3 seven inches
or w^hatever the hip measure may be, follow the
corresponding figures in table given. Get width
of bottom by following the table, then measure the
same length on gored side and mark 5; at the top
measure in one-half inch for curve and extend
the curve down three inches, cut jDattern by pencil
mark for most figures it is necessary to curve the
;

front slightly at top, about one-half inch down

in centre of front.
For side gore measure down on edge of paper
six inches to 1, then mark the length from the
off
top of paper to 2. Measure out on hip line nine
and one-half inches, measure out from 2 the width
of bottom to 4; measure the length on gored edge
and mark 5, at top measure in one-half inch for
curve, to 6, and on straight edge measure in one-
half inch to 7.

For the back, measure off two straight lengths

or more if one Welshes to have the skirt wider.
GARMENT DRAFTING 35
 36 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

T,
 .

GARMENT DRAFTING 37

NIGHT GOWN.
The night gown, chemise and shirt waist illus-
trated in this Yolnme were all cut from the fol-
lowing measurements:
Neck 12.
Bust 34.
Waist 24.
Front 19^.
Back 16.
Back balance 14^.
Under Arm 8f
Chest 13.
Width back 11^.
Shoulder ^.
Back : '

Draw a horizontal line seven inches long one

inch from the edge of the paper. Always mark
dowii one-fourth of an inch for the curve at the
neck to 1, then from 1 measure down four inches
to 2 and the bottom of the yoke is 3. Measure out
from the top one and one-half inches to 4, then
from 2 measure out eight inches to 5. Measure
out from 3 one-half of the width of the back to 6
and up from 6 one inch. Measure on shoulder
slant the length of the shoulder from 4 and come
up one-half an inch and connect 7 and 4 with very
slight inward curve. Connect 7 with the mark an
3S iMARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

inch above 6 with an inward curve, this line is 8,

Then malve the curve, 9 at the bottom of joke.
For the front, commence two inches in from the
edge of paper and draw a \ horizontal line eight
inches long; first mark down two inches to 1, then
measure down six inches from 1 to 2 or the length
of the yoke. At top of line measure out two
inches to 3 from 1 measure out nine inches to get
;

the slant of the shoulder; at 2 measure out the

width of chest and come up one inch at the arm
to then connect 3 and 4 and measure on this
6,

line beginning at 3, the length of the shoulder

and mark 7; now draw the neck curve, making it
one and one-fourth inches below 1.
For a twelve inch neck measure, make the back
of the neck one and one-half inches and for the
front come out two inches and down from 1, one
and one-half inches; for every inch larger add one-
eighth inch and for every inch smaller take off one-
eighth.
Connect 6 and 7 by an inward curve and 6 and
2 by a slight outward curve.
The measurements taken for this night gown
sleeve were: arm's eye 12, shoulder to wrist 22,
inside arm's-eye to wrist 17, hand 8.
For the night gown sleeve take the inside meas-
ure of the arm and add to it five inches for the
curve at the top. Measure the whole length on
fold of paj)er.
From mark up the length of inside measure to
1
3, then mark from 1 up one inch to 4. Measure
out from 4 the desired width and mark, also meas-
ure out from 3 the width desired at top of sleeve
and mark, from this point, draw the curve 5 to
 GARMENT DRAFTING 39

within four and. one-half inches of 2. From the

same point draw the curve 6 for the under part
of the sleeve. Connect the top of sleeve with the
wrist by a straight line 7 then finish with curved
line 8 at bottom.
To make the night gown hang evenly, measure
from bust line all around the correct length.
Overhand the gores and sew up in French seam.
Another excellent pattern for a night gown is
<!ut exactly like the Shirt Waist on page 51 with
the exception of the two lines 12 which should be
changed from curved lines to slanting lines from
the bust line to bottom of night gown.
 ——

40 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

CHEMISE.
Back :

Draw a horizontal line two inches in from the

edge of paper, measure down one-fourth inch from
top line to 1, from 1 to 2 is four inches, from 3 to
1 is the length of back to waist and from 3 to 4
is the under arm measure.
Now, begin at top and measure out one and
one-half inches for neck to 5, (for a neck measure
exceeding twelve inches see neck scale in night
gown). From 2 to 6 always measure out eight
inches to get the shoulder slant; from 4 to 7 is
the width of back, adding one and three-fourth
inches to bring the seam far enough under the
arm as no underarm piece is used in this gar-
ment. Connect 7 and 8 by an inward curve. 9 is the
shoulder and is made two inches wide; 10 is the
arm's eye curve; 11 is the neck curve from shoul-
der to three-fourths of an inch above 2. A square
neck may be made by following the dotted lines»
12 is an inward curve to waist line. The dotted
lines show the fullness allowed in the back, more
may be allowed if desired.
Front :

Draw a line three inches in from edge of paper;

1 is two inches from top, from 1 to 2 always meas-
GARMENT DRAFTING 41
 GARMENT DRAFTING 43

ure six inches; 4 to 3 is tlie under arm measure-

ment. For 4 measure out two inches from top of
line (see neck scale in night gown). From 1 to 5
alwaj^s measure nine inches for shoulder slant; 2
to 6 is the bust line which is obtained the same
as in corset cover, but as we have made the back
one and three-fourths inches wider this amount
must be taken from the front. 7 is the chest line
taken one inch above the bust line and out one-
half of chest measurement. 8 is the shoulder two
inches wide; 9 is the arm's eye curve from shoul-
der to bust line and touching chest line; 10 is the
neck curve from shoulder to one inch above chest
measure. The neck may be made square by fol-
lowing the dotted lines.
44 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

CORSET COVER.
The following measurements were used for the
corset cover illustrated and for all other tight fit-
ting waists in this volume.
Neck, 12 inches.
Bust, 34 inches.
Waist, 24 inches.
Front, 19^ inches.
Length back, 16 inches.
Back bal., 14| inches.
Under arm, 8f inches.
Chest, 13 inches.
Width back, 11^ inches.
Shoulder, 5| inches.
Dart No. 1, 6 inches.
Dart No. 2, 6^ inches.
For the back of corset cover, first draw a hori-
zontal line the length of your paper. From 1
measure down four and one-fourth inches to 2,then
the length of the back from 1 to waist line 3.
From 3 to 4 is the under arm measurement.
Begin at the top and mark out one and one-
half inches to 5, (see neck scale in night gown).
From 2 to 6 always mark out eight inches to get
the shoulder slant; from 4 to 7 measure the width
of back, then from 7 up one inch to get the curve
for the arm's eye.
 GARMENT DRAFTING 45

1
 GARMENT DRAFTING 47

3 to 8 is the Avidth of waist line, for a twenty-

four incli waist measure, make tlie back three
and one-fourth inches for a corset cover.
Now mark off the length of shoulder to 9, then
draw the slant in the back which is 10. 11 is the
back balance and determines where the shoulder
seam come. 12 is the shoulder made two inches
wide; 13 is an inward curve at the arm's eye and
14 is the inward curve drawn from the inch mark
above 7 to 8 15 is an inward curve from the shoul-
;

der to three-fourths of an inch above 2. The neck

may be cut square if desired b}' following the dot-
ted lines. 16 is a straight line extending three
inches below the waist line and out to the main
line. IT is an outward curve three inches down
and slanting one inch; 18 is a slanting curve con-
necting 16 and 17.
To cut the front of corset-cover draw a horizon-
tal linetwo inches from the edge of the j)aper.
Measure down two inches from top to l,from 1 to 2
is always six inches. From 2 to 3 is the length of
the underarm measure. Measure two inches from
top of line to 4 for twelve inch neck measure, (see
neck scale in night gown).
Always measure nine inches from 1 to 5 for
shoulder slant. 2 to 6 is the bust line; to get the
length of this line we must subtract the width of
back from the bust measurement. The width of
our back is eleven and one-half inches, this sub-
tracted from thirty-four ,our bust measurement,
would leave twenty-two and one-half inches, and
since we are making but half the front we divide
this by two which would give us eleven and one-
fourth. From 6 mark in two and one-half inches
48 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

to 7 for the under arm piece. From the waist line,

8, draw a straight line, 9, extending one inch
above the dotted line from 7 to waist
6. 10 is

line and on each side of this dotted line is a slight-

ly curved line Avhich outlines the forms.
11 is the length of shoulder and is marked out
on shoulder slant, making the shoulder two inches
wide. the chest measurement taken one
12 is

inch above the bust line and out one-half of chest

measure. 13 is the arm's eye curve from shoulder
to bust line and touching chest line. 14 is the
curve one-half inch in from top of line 9 to bust
line. Now draw a curve from the one-half inch
point, extending down two and one-half inches
and connecting with the line 9. 15 is the neck
curve from the shoulder to one and oije-half inches
above chest line. 16 is the front measurement;
17 is the first dart and is one and one half inches
in from the front line. Always make the first dart
smaller than the other. To find the quantity to
put into the darts measure the back which in this
figure is six and one-half inches, subtract this
from the waist measure which is twenty-four, this
leaves seventeen and one-half which, divided by
two, makes one-half the pattern or eight and
three-fourths inches; measure out on waist line
eight and three-fourths inches and the quantity
we have left on waist line is for the darts. The
amount we have left for the darts in this figure
is three and one-half inches, so mark off one

and one-half inches for the first dart and two

inches for the other, 18. Always leave a space
of three-fourths of an inch between the darts,
19 is the straight dart; the dart lines are curved
 GARMENT DRAFTING 49

to the waist line and straight below, they are

just half as large at the bottom as at the waist
line. 20 is slightly slanted toward the back and
is half an inch higher than the first dart. 21 is
an outward curve, three inches down from waist
line 8, and slanting one and one-half inches; 22
is an outward curve three inches down and slant-

ing one and one-fourth inches; 23 is an outward

curve slanting three-fourths of an inch.
Make the corset cover with felled seams.
 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

SIIIET WAIST.
For the back draw a horizontal line the length
of your paper. Measure one-fourth of an inch
down from dotted line to 1. Measure four inches
from 1 to 2; from 1 to 3 is the length of back to
waist line; from 4 to 3 is the under arm -measure
ment.
Begin at top and measure out one and one-half
inches to 5 (see neck scale in night gown). Prom
2 to 6 always measure out eight inches to get
shoulder slant; 4 to 7 is the width of back, then we
take one. and three-fourths inches from the front
and add it to the back so as to bring the seam
under the arm. After adding one and three-
fourths inches to this line we mark up one inch
from 7 to get the curve for arm's eye, from 3 to 8
is the width of waist line.

Now mark length of shoulder on shoulder slant,

9 is back balance and determines where the shoul-
der seam comes. 10 marks the curve on shoulder.
Now draw curve for the neck.
11 is the inward curve for the arm's eye, 12 is
the slight inward curve extending to the waist
line. 13 is an outward curve, 3 inches down and
slanting one inch. The dotted line shows fullness
allowed for back.
For the front of shirt waist draw a horizontal
GARMENT DRAFTING 51
 GARMENT DRAFTING 53

linetwo inches from edge of paper. Measure

down two inches from top to 1, from 1 to 2 always
measure six inches.
From 2 to 3 is the under arm measure. From
top of line measure out two inches to 4 (see neck
scale in night dress). Always measure out nine
inches from 1 to 5, to get the shoulder slant.
Get the bust line and under arm seam the same
as in the chemise.
The dotted line, 3 to 7, is our temporary waist
line, 8 is the chest measure taken one inch above
bust line and out one-half of chest measurement.
9 is the length of shoulder and is drawn out on the
shoulder slant. 10 is the inward curve from
shoulder to bust line and touching chest line. 11
is the neck curve from 4 to one and one-half inches

below 1 (see neck scale in night dress). 12 is an

inward curve from 6 to waist line; 13 is the front
measurement; 14 is our waist line; 15 is an out-
ward curve three inches down and slanting one
and one-half inches.
In making this waist use French seams for the
sleeves and under arm seams. In putting on the
yoke, cut the outside on the bias and the lining
straight. Sew the front of shoulder to the lining
of shoulder in back, then sew the outside of back
shoulder over on the seam. In sewing in the
sleeve the seam of sleeve should come from 2 to
2^ inches in front of under arm seam and the full-
est part of the gathers should come just in front of
the shoulder seam. The Bishop or leg of mutton
sleeve is used in the shirt waist.
The cuff is a straight band ten inches wide and
three inches long. The neck band is one and one-
54 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

fourth inches wide, in sewing the band on, the

curve is sewed to the neck curve of the dress
Always cut the neck band lengthwise of mater-
ial. To make the cuff always cut the lining
lengthwise and the outside crosswise; the inter-
lining should be of butcher's linen and should al-
wavs be shrunk.
 56 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

,-J
 GARMENT DRAFTING 57

PLAIN WAIST.
The same measurements were taken for this
waist as for the corset cover.
For the back, draw a horizontal line the length
of paper. 1 is one-fourth of an inch from top of
line; 2 is four inches from 1. Mark from 1 to 3
the length of back to waist. From 4 to 3 is the
under arm measure. Begin at the top and mark
—
out one and one-half inches this for a twelve
inch neck measurement, see neck scale in night
—
gowm to 5. From 2 to 6 always mark out eight
inches to get the shoulder slant, from 4 to 7 is
the width of back, from 7 mark up one inch to get
the curve for the arm's eye. From 3 at waist line,
first mark off three-fourths of an inch for the
slant in the back, then one and one-fourth inches
for width of back at waist line, then space three-
fourths of an inch; for the side body mark off two
inches to 8 (this for a twenty-four inch waist meas-
ure). Since for a twenty-four inch waist the two
back forms together will measure three and one-
fouth inches at waist line, allowing one and one-
fourth inches for back and two inches for side
body, then for each additional inch in the waist
measurement allow one fourth of an inch, one
eighth on back and one-eighth on side body. For
each decreasing inch in the measurement take off
a like amount.
58 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

Now measure off on shoulder slant the length of

shoulder to 9. 10 is the slant from 1 to the waist
line; 11 is the back balance and shows where the
shoulder seam should be; 12 is the curve of the
shoulder; 13 is an inward curve for the arm's eye.
For 14 draw an inward curve from the point one
inch above 7 to 8 at waist line; 15 is an inward
curve at the neck 16 is an inward curve from the
;

arm's eye, one and one-fourth inches above the to'^

of line 14 to the second mark on waist line. 17 is
an outward curve beginning an inch below the
dotted line, marking the width of back, and
drawn to the next mark on the waist line; this is
the curve of the side body,
18 is a slanting line three and one-half inches
down from waist line and slanting three-fourths of
an inch; 19 is drawn three and one-fourth inches
and slants three-fourths of an inch; 20 is drawn
down three and one-fourth inches and slants
three-fourths of an inch; 21 is an outward curve,
drawn three inches down and slants one inch.
For the front of the waist draw a horizontal
line two inches from the edge of the paper. Mark
down two inches from top to 1. Always measure
down six inches from 1 to 2. 2 to 3 draw thi
length of the under arm measure. At top meas-
ure out two inches to lathis for a 12 inch neck
measure, if more, see neck scale in night gown.
Always mark out nine inches from 1 to 5 for
shoulder slant. From 2 to 6 is the bust line, to
get this line subtract the width of back from bust
measurement; the width of our back is eleven and
one-half inches, this subtracted from thirty-four,
our bust measurement, would leave twent^'-two
and one-half inches and since we are making but
 GARMENT DRAFTING 59

lialf the front we divide this by two, which would

srive us eleven and one-fourth. From 6 mark in
two and one-half inches to 7 for the under arm
piece; from the waist line, 8, draw a straight line,
9, extending one inch above 6 10 is the dotted line
;

from 7 to waist line; 11 is the chest measurement

taken one inch above the bust line and out one-
half of chest measure.
12 is the length of shoulder; this line is marked
out on shoulder slant five and one-half inches.
Now make the arm's eye curve, 13, from shoulder
to bust line and touching chest line; 14 is the curve
one-half an inch in from top of line 9 to bust line.
Now draw a curve from the one-half inch point,
extending down two and one-half inches and con-
necting with the line 9.
15 is the neck curve from shoulder to one and
—
one-half inches below 1 see neck scale in night
gown. 16 is the front measurement and deter-
mines the permanent waist line. 17 is the first
dart one and one-half inches in from front line.
Always make the first dart smaller than the
other. To find the quantity to put into the darts
measure the back which in this figure is six and
one-half inches, subtract this from the waist meas-
ure which is twentj^-four, this leaves seventeen
and one-half which, divided hj two makes one-
half the pattern or eight and three-fourths inches;
then measure out on waist line eight and three-
fourths inches and the quantity we have left for
the darts in this figure is three and one-half inch-
es, so mark off one and one-half inches for the
first one and two inches for the other, 18. Always
leave a space of three-fourths of an inch between
the darts. 19 is the straight dart, the dart lines
60 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

are curved to the waist line and straight below,

they are just half as large at the bottom as at the
waist line. 20 is slightly slanted toward the back
and is one-half inch higher than the first dart. 21
is an outward curve three inches down from waist
line, 8, and slanting one and one-half inches; 22
is an outward curve three inches down and slant-

ing one and one-fourth inches; 23 is an outward

curve slanting three-fourths of an inch.
The trfmmings needed for a plain waist are
two yards of silesia, sewing silk, button hole twist,
basting cotton, buttons or hooks and eyes, three
whale bones and 4 yards of bone casings.
Always cut your waist lining crosswise of the
silesia. In basting the material onto the lining
hold lining slightly full from two inches above the
waist line to one and one-half inches below it.
Great care must be taken to bast the seams of
a basque according to the tracing marks; always
begin basting at waist line, first basting up then
from waist line downward. After the waist is
basted try it on.
After the seams are sewed take out the bastings,
pare the seams, making notches at the waist line
to allow for the curving of the dress. The under-
arm seams may be left wider than the others so
that the waist may be altered.
Overcast the seams closely or if in silk, bind
them with a narrow^ silk binding, then press open.
In sewing the whalebone casing which should
be single casing, hold it full; if possible soak the
whale bone over night before using, then place in
the seam and fasten firmly every 2 inches; sew
through the bone in finishing.
 62 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

I
 GARMENT DRAFTING 63

SLEEVES.
The measures taken for the sleeves illustrated
here are as follows:
Arm's eye, 12 inches.
Shoulder to elbow, 15 inches.
Elbow to wrist, 11 inches.
Inside elbow to arm's eye, 9^ inches.
Elbow, 11 inches.
Hand, 8 inches.
For the plain coat sleeve, first draw a horizontal
line. From 6 to 1 is the length from shoulder to
elbow, 1 to 2 the length from elbow to wrist. For
3 mark up two inches from 2, 1 to 4 is the inside
measure from elbow to arm's eye, from 4 to 5 al-
ways mark up one and one-half inches, from 6 to
7 mark half the arm's eye, from 5 to 8 measure out
half of arm's eye and always add on four inches.
From 4 to 10 measure out one-fourth of arm's eye,
from 1 measure in two and one-half inches; from
11 to 12 measure one-half the elbow measure less
one inch, and for the upper piece, 11 to 13 meas-
ure one-half the elbow measurement plus one inch.
Our elbow measure is 11 inches then the under
part of sleeve would be four and one-half inches
wide and the upper side would be six and one-half
inches in width. For wrist measure in one-half
inch from 3 to 14 and divide the hand measure.
64 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

eight inclies, in the same wa}^ as the elbow meas-

ure was divided.
For the leg of mutton sleeve mark on fold of
paper 4 to 1 the length of shoulder to elbow plus
one inch; 1 to 2 from elbow to wrist, from 1 to 3
inside measure, from 4 to 5 one-half of arm's eye,
from 3 to 6 is width of sleeve putting in the
amount of fullness desired, from 1 to 7 is one-half
the elbow measure and 2 to 8 is one-half the hand
measure, slanting up one-half inch. Connect 6
and 8 by an inward curve, for the outside curve
at the top of sleeve connect 5 and G. Measure
from 6 to 9 one-fourth of the arm's eye or three
inches to get the under side of sleeve, draw a curve
from 4 to 9 and from 9 to 6 coming one-fourth
inch below dotted line. This is the upper and
lower sleeve.
The making of a sleeve is to many the most
part of a garment and yet by following a
difficult
few rules carefull}' it is easy to make a sleeve that
fits well.
When making a jjlain, closely fitting sleeve (as
the lining) it is best to test it before basting it to
the arm's eye, to see that the seams run properly
and that no part has been twisted. To do this
lay the sleeve flatly upon the table or lap board
so that the inside seams come on the upper side
close to the inner fold at the top and if the sleeve
be properly made all the parts will fall naturally
into shape. See that the thread of the material
runs straigh down from the shoulder seam.
Now pin the sleeve to the arm's eye in such a
way that nearly all the fullness will come in the
upper portion and arrange the fullness so that it
 GARMENT DRAFTING 65

will be greatest about au inch in front of the

shoulder seam, gradually lessening it as it nears
the seams of the sleeve. The surest guide we
can have for deciding how to distribute the full-
ness is to see that the thread runs downward in
a straight line from the shoulder in all material
in which the thread can be followed.
Face the wrist with crinoline and finish with
a bias piece of material or silk.
 —

66 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

THE FRENCH BIAS DART.

Back.
First draw a horizontal line the length of paper.
Measure down one-fourth inch from dotted line to
1, measure four inches from 1 to 2, from 1 to 3 is

length of back from neck to waist, 4 to 3 is the

underarm measure. Begin at top and measure
out one and one-half inches from 1 to 5, for twelve
inch neck measure (see neck scale in night gown).
From 2 to 6 always measure out eight inches to
get shoulder slant, 4 to 7 is the width of back,
from 7 measure out one inch to get curve for arm's
eye. From 3 at waist line first measure out three-
fourths inch for slant in back then three and one-
fourth inches from that point to 8.
Measure off on shoulder slant the length of
shoulder 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1 to waist line,
11 is the back balance and determines the point
where the shoulder seam comes, 12 is the shoulder
curve connecting 5 and 9, 13 is an inward curve
for the arm's eye, 14 is an inward curve from the
arm's eye to 8, 15 is the neck curve, 16 is a
straight line extending three inches below the
waist and out to the main line, 17 is an outward
curve three inches down and slanting one and one-
fourth inch, 18 is a straight line at the bottom.
 GARMENT DRAFTING 67

/
 GARMENT DRAFTING 69

Front.—
Drawa horizontal line two inches from the
edge of paper, measure down two inches from top
to 1, from 1 to 2 always measure down six inches,

2 to 3 is the length of underarm measure. Meas-

ure out two inches from top to 4 (see neck scale in
night gown). From 1 to 5 always measure out
nine inches for the shoulder slant, 2 to 6 is the
bust line, (to get thi.s follow description in plain
waist), but for the French Bias Dart add two
or more inches on the bust line to increase the
bias. From 6 measure in two and one-half inches
to 7, from 7 to 8 measure off the amount added

on bust line which in this figure is two inches.

From 9 which is the waist line, a straight line 10
extends up to one inch above 6, 11 is a slightly
curved line extending from 7 to waist line, 12 is
a slightly curved line from 8 to waist, 13 is length
of shoulder marked out on shoulder slant five and
one-half inches, 11 is the chest measure one inch
above the bust line, and out one-half of chest meas-
urement, 15 is the arm's eye curve from shoulder
to bust line and touching chest line; 16 is a curve
starting one-half inch in from top of line 10 and
extending to 7; from the curve 16 another curve
extends down two and one-half inches and joins
line 10. 17 is the neck curve from shoulder to
one and one-half inches below 1 this for a twelve
inch neck measure. 19 is the first dart
(always make the first dart smaller than
the other) one and one-half inches in from
front line. To find the quantity to put in
the darts measure the back which in this figure is

six and one-half inches, subtract this from the

70 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

waist measure wliieli is twenty-four iuclies, this

leaves seventeen and one-half inches, divide this
by two as we are making but one-half the pattern,
then measure out eight and three-fourths inches
on waist line and the quantity left on this line is
the quantity we have to put in the darts. In this
figure we have five and one-half inches for the
darts, we measure off one and one-half inches for
the first dart and four inches for the other which
in the illustration is marked 20. Always leave
three-fourths of an inch between the darts, 21 is
the center of the first dart, the outlines to the
waist are curved but straight below and one-half
as large at bottom as at waist. 22 marks the
center of the second dart which extends one-half
inch higher than the first, 23 is an outward
curve extending down three inches and slanting
one and one-half inches, 24 is an outward curve
extending down three inches and slaiiting one
and one-fourth inch, 25 is an outward curve slant-
ing three-fourths inch.
72 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

"^^^
 GARMENT DRAFTING 73

THE SEAMLESS WAIST.

To make a seamless waist first draft a French
back, then draft a plain front, instead of putting
in darts take off one-half the quantity usually
used in darts, in front from bust line to waist line
and the other half from back seam slanting in
from bust line to waist line. Cut out this front
and connect with French back, this brings the
front on the bias, cut your pattern and place on
fold of cloth. The seamless waist makes a good
corset cover by adding a three inch ripple at bot-
tom.
 —
74 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

PRINCESS DEESS.
Back.
Firstdraw a line the length of paper, measure
down one-fourth inch from dotted line to 1. From
I to 2 measure four inches, from 1 to 3 measure
the length of back to waist, 4 to 3 is the underarm
measure.
Begin at top and measure out one and one-half
inches to 5, this for a twelve inch neck measure
(see neck scale in night gown). From 2 to 6 al-
ways measure out eight inches to get the shoul-
der slant. From 3 on waist line first measure off
three-fourths of an inch, mark, then one and one-
fourth inches for back and mark, leave a space
one and three-fourths inches wide then measure
off two inches for side bod^^ and mark 8.
Measure off length of shoulder on shoulder slant
from 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1 to waist line,
II is the back balance and determines the place
where the shoulder seam should be, 12 is the
shoulder curve, 13 is an inward curve for the arm's
eye, 14 is an inward curve from arm's eye to waist
line, 15 is the neck curve, 16 is the arm's eye curve
on side bod}', 17 is a slightly curved line from an
inch above 7 to 8, 18 is side body curve from arm's
eye to waist line, 19 is a straight line extending
below waist line and slanting as illustrated, 20
is a curved line extending below waist, 21 and 22

are also slight curves and extend well below waist

line.
GARMENT DRAFTING 75
 —

GARMENT DRAFTING 77

Front.
For the front draw a straight line two inches
from the edge of paper, measure down two inches
from top to 1, from 1 to 2 always measure down
six inches, from 2 to 3 measure the length of un-
derarm. Begin at top and measure out two inch-
es to 4 (see neck scale in night gown). From 1
measure out nine inches to 5 for shoulder slant, 2
to 6 is the bust line to get which see description
of Plain Waist, but for the Princess Dress add
two inches to the bust line, these two inches are
used in the under arm dart. From 6 measure in
two and one-half inches to 7 and from 7 two inch-
es to 8. 9 is the same distance from front as 6,
from 9 to 10 measure two and one-half inches and
from 10 to 11 measure two inches, 12 is the
straight line extending from 9 at waist line to one
inch above 6 and curving in one-half inch at top,
13 is a slightly curved line connecting 7 with 10,
14 connects 8 with 11, 15 is length of shoulder
measured on shoulder slant from 4, 16 is the chest
measurement and is taken one inch above bust
line and out one-half of chest measure, 17 is the
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line and
touching chest line, 18 is a curve from top of line
12 to 7, 19 is the neck curve from 4 to one and
one-half inches below 1, 20 is the front measure-
ment, 21 is the first dart, 22 the second (to get
size of darts see description of them in Plain
Waist.) 23 marks the straight line in center of
first dart and 24 marks the second which is slight-
ly slanting. 25 is a curved line extending below
waist, 26 is a curved line slanting three-fourths of
an inch and 27 is a curve slanting one and one-
fourth inches.
 ^8 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

JACKET.
For the back draw a horizontal line the length
of paper, measure down oue-fonrth of an inch
from dotted line to 1, from 1 to 2 measure four
inches, from 1 to 3 mark length of back
to waist,
from 4 to 3 is the underarm measure. Begin at
top and measure one and one-half inches out from
1 to 5 for a twelve inch neck measure (see neck
scale in night gown). From 2 to 6 always meas-
ure out eight inches to get the shoulder slant,
4
to 7is the width of back, measure up
one inch to
get curve for arm's eye. From 3 on waist line,
measure off three-fourths inch for slant in back,
then one and one-half inches for the back, then
space three-fourths of an inch, and for side body
measure off two and one-fourth inches for a
twenty-four inch waist measure, (if more see plain
waist). Measure off on shoulder slant the length
of shoulder from 5 to 9, 10 is the slant from 1
to
waist line, 11 is the back balance and determines
where the shoulder seam should come, 12 is the
shoulder curve, 13 is an inward curve for the
arm's eye, 14 is an inward curve from the arm's
eye to 8 at waist line, 15 is an inward curve at
the neck, 16 is an inward curve from the arm's
eye one and one-fourth inches above the top of
line 14 to the one and one-half inch mark on waist
 GARMENT DRAFTING 79

y_
 GARMENT DRAFTING 81

line,17 is an outward curve beginning one inch

below the dotted line marking width of back, ex-
tends to the next mark on waist line and marks
the curve of side body. 18 is a slanting line extend
ing five inches down from waist line and slant-
ing outward three-fourths inch, 19 extends down
five inches and slants three-fourths inch, 20 ex-
tends down five inches and slants one and one-
fourth inches, 21 is an outward curve, extending
down five inches and out one and one-half inches.
For the front of Jacket draw a horizontal line
two inches from the edge of paper, measure down
two inches from top and mark 1, from 1 to 2 is
always six inches, 2 to 3 is the length of under
arm measure. Measure out two inches from top
of line to 4 (if more than twelve inches neck meas-
ure see neck scale in night gown). From 1 to 5
measure out nine inches for shoulder slant, 2 to
6 is the bust line, (to get bust line follow descrij)-
tion given in Plain Waist), measure in three inch-
es from 6 to 7 for under arm piece. From one
inch above 6 to the waist line 8 is a straight line
9, 10 is the dotted line from 7 to waist line, 11 is
the chest measurement and is taken one inch
above the bust line and out one-half of chest meas-
urement. 12 is the length of shoulder and is
measured out on shoulder slant from 4, 13 is the
arm's eye curve from shoulder to bust line, touch-
ing chest line, 14 is the neck curve from shoulder
to one and one-half inch below 1 (see neck scale
in night gown). 15 is the front measurement, 10
is the waist line, 17 is an outward curve extend-
ing five inches below the waist line and slanting
two inches, 18 is a curved line slanting two inch-
es, 19 is a curved line slanting one inch.
82 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

The shows a double-breasted effect

illustration
and a dotted shows a coat collar. In the sep-
line
arate cut of collar 1 is the center of back cut on
the bias, 4 and 5 come next to the neck of jacket,
2 is the edge which is turned down and 3 is the
front of collar.
 GARMENT DRAFTING 83

DRESS SKIRT.
To make a skirt of the present style four lengths
of material are required.
—
Three measurements are taken. Band tightly
around waist, hip measure taken six inches below
waist from center of front to center of back and
length from waist to floor which allows for mak-
ing. The skirt described here is for a twenty-
four inch waist, hip nineteen and length forty
inches. For the front mark down on fold of pa-
per one-half inch, from this point measure down
six inches, which is the hip line and measure the
length from first mark.
Then measure out from top of fold four and
one-half inches; on hip line measure out six and
one-half inches, and at the bottom measure out
twelve inches from fold.
Draw a curved line from the mark at the top to
mark on hip line and a straight line down to the
twelve inch mark at bottom, on this edge meas-
ure the same length as on the fold, curve the bot-
tom by connecting the two points, draw a curved
line at the top and cut by pencil marks. For the
side gore mark down on the edge of paper one
inch, from this mark measure down six inches
for hip line then the length from first mark. At
top of paper mark out five inches, on hip line
84 MARGARET RLATR SYSTEM

measure out eight inches and at the bottom eight-

een inches. From the five inch marlv at top draw
a curved line to mark on hip line and a straight
line from this point to the eighteen inch mark at
bottom. On straight edge at top curve off one-
half inch, draw tlie curve at top from the one inch
mark to five inch mark, measure the length down
on gored edge and mark, make a curved line at
bottom and cut by pencil marks.
For side gore No. 2, firstmark down one and
one-half inch on edge of paper, from this mark
measure the length, at the top mark out three
inches, from this point measure out eight inches
and at bottom measure out twenty-two inches.
Connect this point with mark at top by a straight
line, measure the length on this edge and mark,
draw the curve at the top. From the three inch
mark at top curve slightly about six inches down
then from this on a straight line to edge of paper
at bottom. Draw a curved line at bottom.
For the back gore, mark dovrn on fold of pa^
per one-half inch, then the length. From fold at
top measure out four and one-half inches and at
bottom measure out fifteen inches, draw the curve
at top. Connect the points on gored edge with a
straight line and measure length on this line.
Then draw curve at bottom.
This skirt when finished is about four and one-
half yards around the bottom.
In making a dress skirt see that you have
plenty of material for it will not do to piece the
material crosswise.
For the lining, if of silk, ten yards is required, of
percaline five and one-half yards or eight yards of
 GARMENT DRAFTING 85

cambric. Double the lining crosswise, lay pat-

tern on and pin firmly. After cutting lining lay
the interlining on it (if the interlining is of hair
cloth it should always be shrunk before using).
Cut the interlining from four to five inches wide,
baste interlining on lining and stit.ch at the top of
interlining, (if of haircloth it must be bound at
the top.
Now lay material on the table place lining on
it with interlining between, smooth the material
carefully from top toward bottom. First baste
through the center always beginning at top baste
;

top and sides and so on until all the gores are

basted. Baste the gores together always begin-
ning at the top. Try on the skirt to see that it
fits nicely around the hips; if darts are needed
make them in lining and stretch material over
them. When stitching the seams always begin at
the top. Pull the basting threads out of the
seams and press thoroughly. Now make the belt
which should be of silk or some firm lining mater-
ial; cut it on the bias two and one-half inches
wide and the length of waist measure, adding one
and one-half inch for making. Now take a strong
cord, (wrapping cord will do) double it and twist,
fold your belt in center, lengthwise, run the cord
through and stitch on the machine, turn the ends
in nicely and overhand. Before putting belt on
overcast around the top of skirt and seams. To
put the belt on the skirt find the centre of front
gore and begin there; always hold the skirt next
you and slightly full. When you have basted the
belt on try on the skirt to see that it hangs evenly
all round the bottom. When it hangs evenly
86 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

overcast the bottom and baste the velveteen on.

Now stitch the belt where it was basted and hem
down nicely on the right side of skirt.
For fastening skirt belt use a large hook and
eye in the back of the belt, sew on three eyes to
fasten to waist and two loops to hang the skirt
up by.
MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM
 GARMENT DRAFTING 89

BOY'S SAILOR WAIST AND COLLAR.

Take measurements as for child's dress waist
omitting back balance and front measure.
For the back begin one inch in from edge of
paper and draw a straight line, measure down
one-fourth of an inch from top of line to .1,
from 1 to 2 always measure three inches, 1 to 3
is length of back to waist line, 3 to 4 is the under

arm measure.
Begin at top and measure out one and one-half
inches from top to 5, from 2 to 6 always measure
seven inches to get shoulder slant, 4 to 7 is the
width of back adding on one and one-half inches,
3 to 8 is the waist line, the slanting line comes
one and one-fourth inches from 8. 5 to 9 is length
of shoulder coming up one-half inch from shoulder
slant, 10 is the shoulder curve, 11 is the neck
curve, 12 is the arm's eye curve, 13 is a straight
line extending from arm's eye to bottom and
slanting two and one-fourth inches, 14 is the curve
at bottom which is five inches below the waist
line.
For the front draw a straight line two inches
from edge of paper, measure down two inches
from top of line to 1, from 1 to 2 measure four
and one-half inches, 2 to 3 is the length of under
arm measure. From top of line measure out two
90 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

inches to 4, measure out eight inches from 1 to 5

to get shoulder slant, 6 is the bust line meas-
ured out from 2 and taking off the amount added
to width of back, 3 to 7 is the width on waist line,
8 is the length of shoulder, measured out on shoul-
der slant from 4, 9 is the width of chest taken
one inch above bust line and out one-half of chest
measure, 10 is the arm's eye curve from 8 to bust
line and touching chest line, 11 is the neck curve
from 4 to one and one-fourth inches below 1, 12 is
the slanting line extending from 6 to five inches
below waist line, 13 the slightly curved line at
bottom.
For the neck band mark off one-half of neck
measure and make it one and one-fourth inches in
width. The dotted line 1 is the center of back, 2
is the edge of band which is sewed on to the neck
of waist and is slightly curved in front, 3 is the
curved edge in front and 4 is the top which is
straight. Cut the band lengthwise of material.
For the Sailor Collar mark off on fold of paper
eight and one-fourth inches which is the dotted
line 1 and marks the center of back. 2 is the bot-
tom of collar in back and is very slightly curved,
3 is straight line slanting one-half inch, 4 is edge
in front slanting one and one-half inches, 5 is the
neck curve.
This collar may be made to come to a point in
front by following the dotted lines.
 92 MARGARET BLAIR SYSTEM

^
 ——
GARMENT DRAFTING 93

BOY'S SLEEVE.
This sleeve is for a boy
five or six years of age.
From 1 to 2 measure four inclies, from 2 to 3
off
is the inside sleeve measure, from 2 to 4 is one-
half width of sleeve at arm's eye, from 3 to 5 is
width of sleeve at wrist allowing for fullness
which is gathered into the band or cuff. By con-
necting 1 and 4 by an outward curve and also by
an inward curve you have both the upper and
lower part of the sleeve. The dotted lines show
the facing and cuff. Cut the sleeve on fold of
material.

BOYS PANTS.
These pants are for a boy six years of age.
Front.
From 1 to 2measure up one-fourth inch on hip
line, 2 to 3 is the length of leg, 2 to 4 is the width
at knee, 3 to 5 width on seat line, from waist on
dotted line 6 measure up one-half inch and connect
with hip by slanting line; from hip to 1 draw a
slightly outward curve; from 6 to 5 draw an in-
ward curve and connect 5 and 4 by a straight
line.
Back.
Draw a slanting line on hip line the length of
pants to 1, from 1 to 2 measure up one-half inch.
2 to 3 is the length of leg, 2 to 4 is width of knee,
3 to 5 width on seat line, dotted line 6 is the band
measure, from 6 to 7 measure up three inches to
get the length of seat in back.
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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