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 THE

Dress and Cloak Cutter,

A TREATISE ON THE

THEORY AND PRACTICE

OF CUTTING

DRESSES AND OVERGARMENTS

FOR LADIES.

FOR TAILORS' USE.

Charles Hecklinger.

)r.

BURLINGTON, VT.

I 88 I .

I^i o)
 \^-^

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the vear iSSo, by

Charles Hecklinger,
in the oflice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

^^3^^^^'
 PREFACE.
It is believed that the manner herein adopted of treating tlie Theoiy and
Fraclice of the cutting of dresses is in a great measure new.
But few works of any value have been published on dress-cutting, and most
of those consist merely of a few practical rules, without reference to an)' theoret-"
ical basis, and the author is not aware that the attempt to base the whole practice
of the modern art on a sure fundamental principle, namely, the combination of a
good construction as produced by a correct measure, has ever been attained.
It has often been urged that the cutter must apply the measure in connection
with his draft ; but this has usually been only given as an incidental maxim of
practice ; it lias never been treated as the main principle of work from which suc-
cess springs.
Tiie nearest approach to this attempt, the author has met with, is 'in a little

French work. This author makes the true principle consist in this, what he
propounds as the novel method of combining the hight of the individual with his

size around. But as he was unable, only in an appro.ximate way, to perfect a

collection of bights as a necessary means of carrying this combination principle

into practice, he was obliged to form but an imperfect system, and therefore
his work does nor. conform to true scientific knowledge.
Tiie varied experience of tlie author leads him to believe that an exposition
oftlie fundamental theor}' of construct'on will not only be satisfactory to accomp-
lished cutters, b}' making clearer to them the principle he already acts upon, but

will be found of still greater advantage in teaching those of limited experience.

The young student is often repelled from acquiring a scientific svstem, bv
thinking it complicated and dilFicult. Nothing can be more erroneous than such
an idea : if learnt on proper principles it soon ceases to be diPicult, and becomes
an attractive study, and to attain moderate proficiency in it, is much easier than
is usuallv supposed. But there are many cutters of more experience who are
still much in the dark as to the true merits of the scientific principles and S3stem,
and it is desirable to impress on this large class how greatly the benefits to them
would be increased if they would, b\' a little study, learn to cut and design in a
more rational and svstematic manner.
 In the ever increasing competition in all branches of industry, the designing
of Ladies' dress, also, has risen higher in the last years, to a standpoint more in
conformity with the rules of art.

Unfortunately, the mass of dress-makers have not kept up with this progress,
and many have not acquired these progressive principles. Many of them yet
pursue the old taught system of superficial measuring, and teach cutting after
the few uncertain patterns of ancient date.
Yet, sometimes they boast, with ostentation, to teach cutting thoroughly in
a few days by a few rules, as if the structure of the body could be judged only
by a measure of length or width? Endowed with superficial ideas and some
paper cut patterns in their possession, they dismiss their scholars, even those

who require practical skill to earn their bread as dress-makers.

To place before the dress-makers a change in this slovenly manner of work,
the author undertakes to transfer the same principles in use among skilled artis-

tic tailors, and to adapt it to the use of designing a garment for women.
Himself a practical tailor of a large and varied practice, he has endeavored,
with the co-operation of many friends in the same line, to bring the art of dress-
cutting to the standard of an exact science, and to make this science a common
benefit to the whole mass of dress-makers.
Having been for years active in the literature of the clothing branch, he
hopes to succeed fully in becoming intelligible in the necessary way of repre-
sentation. The practical rules and directions given in the work, are all deduced
strictly from our formed theory, are identical with those sanctioned by the best
modern authorities, and adopted by the best modcr'i cutters.

THE AUTHOR.
 INTRODUCTION.
Dress-making is, without question, one of an artistic profession, and while
it demands technical skill in putting together, it besides involves so much artistic

taste as to call for the greatest mental energies and highest judgment of those
engaged in it.

The artistic character of dresses call into action the best powers of the mind,
in its intelligent study and practice. To investigate thoroughly its fundamental
principles, we must bring to bear upon it, as we sliall by and by have occasion
to explain, reasoning of a high order. The observation must be keen, a consid-
erable power of drawing inferences, and of tracing appearances to their causes,

must be brought into use ; and we must exercise judgment and taste, ingenuity
of contrivance, and such a general course of thought and action as must, if it is to

be successful, be dictated by competent and well trained mental powers.

The style changes continuall}' ; we may make hundreds of dresses, and yet
no two similar ones may be called for. Each new one will possess some novel
feature, oflering special interest of the most diversified kind; sometimes it is the
novelty of the goods, or the style, the demands of the customer, etc., give
unbounded scope (or artistic manipulation. Considering the great increasing de-
mand for fine dress making, it is really astonishing to find how few take tlie

pains to do it well. It has been remarked in our hearing, by one of the largest
manufacturers, that good cutters are seldom to be met with — fine ones scarcely.
And vet how amplv it repays a little trouble devoted to its acquirement.
How then is this deficiencv to be accounted for? Simply because it has
never been admitted that dress cutting, like other branches of artistic

knowledge, requires study. It is commonly supposed that after acquir-

ing the simple construction of a waist, practice alone will suffice to make a goo.l

cutler. Tliis is a great mistake, as experience abundantly shows. We contin-

ually meet with cutters who have practiced the greater part of their lives, and
vet w!io. though they may be steadily occupied, work by such a crude system,
t(i that sanctioned by experts in the art. as scarcely to be fit to be mentioned
beside them.
We have alread}' alluded to the wonderful variety of cutting and mode of

construction. It is with this latter element that we have now more especially
to do.
 Although the construction of tlie (Iralt is so simple tii^t it might br Icniu'd m
a few minutes, yet sucli is the scope that it gives for individual skill, that eviMi

with the same method it can be worked in a number of dillerent ways, accord-
ing to what the cutters notion of good cutting might be.

Now it is a natural inquiry, whether among so various modes and notions, dil-

fering sii much from each ot!ier, there is not one in particular which ma}' be ident-

ified and delined as superior to all ot'i^rs, and which consequently ought to be
preferred for study ? If so, what is it i" What is the Theory on which it is based ? And
on what grounds does its superiority rest?

It is the object of the present work to endeavor to answer these questions : In

the first place, is there anv particular mode of constructing, which is so distinct

and so superior to all others as to merit being distinguished as the best system?
This will commonly be denied, particularly by indilierent cutters, who will

argiiethat opinions vary, that they think their own system as good as an)', and so
on. If the}' cons'der Dress Cutting inereiy a thing of chance, and one wa}- as

good as another, we have nothing- to sa}' to them, extrept iJiat a good set of pat-

terns would be belter adapted to their capacity. But there are others more
worth)' of attention, who object to rules and system whatever, declaring that th.-

draft ought to be by some such method as a chart which produces an even and
regular pattern, and the cutters judgment alone, and their objection to sjstems
is usually backed b)' the assertion that cutting b_y system is often unsuccessful.

The fact is, like almost everything else that may be done in difierent ways,
there is a best way of cutting, and although a wide latitude may always be left for
individual judgment and skill, yet the existence of a system of work preferable
to all others, is sufficiently proved by its acknowledgement by all the best cut-

ters, in a tolerably near agreement among them all, as to what this system is.

This sv.stem, as we have already said, essentially requires to be learnt and

studied. It has been the result of long experience, and careful and intricate deduc-
tion, and it is scarceh' possible for anv one individual to arrive at the knowledge
of it by his own practice or his own judgment, however shrewd, and he must !):•

taught it, as students in other scientific branches are.

As no attempt has e\er been made to work out and to explain the funda-
mental theor\- of construction, and believing that the thorough understanding
of this is the best possible preparation lor using the system aright, and lor acquir-

ing an intelligent style of cutting, we propose to state the theoiy fully, and sho ,v

how it becomes developed in the shape of practical construction.

 DEVELOPMENT OF THE THEORY

In order that we may acquire the following illustrated problems, with Uk;
best hope of success, let us consider it as simplified by certain arbitrary limita-

tions.

It may, in the first place, be rsserted that by previous observation and expe-
rience, we may and commonly do arrive at some conclusion which enables us,

with more or less confidence, to select from among the evidence some proof tor

holding to a certain opinion.

For example, we know that the proportionate size of a figure measuring say
34 breast, is invariably found in most points of relative ratio. This has been
4)roved botir by .measuring the form and the deductions tVom the ditlerence ot

baild, with as much completeness as anything can be proved by these .means.

If it is admitted tha,t the figure is governed by a law of proportion, the inva-
riable sequence of a certain size, then it is equally true that most all the sizes will

correspond with its basis of measurement ; namely, the "Breast Measure".

Granting the principle of the uniformity, what probability is there that in

most cases the same proportion may exist?

It is evident, unless this probability exist in a high degree, amounting almost
to practical certainty, that either the confidence with which we regard this law of
proportion is greatly exagerated, or some one consideration which may exist in the

unilormity of the figure has been omitted.

In all cases of induction, we can do no more than prove a certain law to be
probal.ile-

If our t)bservation and experience be numerous and successtul, tiie probabil-

ity proved mav be a high one, if lew they may be slight.

Now it can hardl\' be doubted that we are correct in saving that b\- expe-
rience and subsequent induction we can arrive at nothing better than prcihabiHl}-,

and it is hardly worth while to enter into any study about how important a part

this probability may exert.

And it is still more open to question whether a legitimate application of simple

proportion, will permit us to hold belief with anything like tiiat certainty, as many
 —

attach to it, even granting all the premises which they are in the iiabii ol claim-

ing.

Let us, in order to see the difference, turn to the basis of the modern method,
wliich lies in the relation existing between the proportions of the body and its

measure.
It is a fundamental feature of the construction of this method, that these two,
the proportion ard the measure, are intended to act, not singly and independently,

but in combination. And it is the full recognition of the fact, carried into all

the ramifications of the drafts and designs, which characterizes the modern system,
and give it its superiority over all others.

This is as yet but imperfectly appreciated by cutters who ignore this rela-

tion of the proportion and .the measures; who rely mainly on a combination oi

lines and curve.* intended to give a draft of good proportion. Others will go
further, giving some degree of consideration to the measures in rectifying the

draft, but still mak'ug the proportionate standard the chief object.

The "Modern Theory,'' however, goes much farther. It carries the com-
bined interest of t!ie two to the I'ullest extent. It forbids consideration of one

apart from tlie otlv.T. but commands treatment of both in strict conjunction in

fact, to construct a froportio7iatc draft by the measure. For this object we

establish certain natural lines on the body, which we need in the construction,

and by which we are informed of the position, and the measures are taken to

produce the size, and thus we obtain certain points by which our judgment is

directed to the best advantage.

This principle of ihe combination of a proportionate basis and the measures
is self evident, and none can doubt the resulting advantage. There are, how-
'cver, two objections sometimes brought against it, which deserve brief notice.

First, it is said that "correctly proportioned garments, perfect in shape,

handsome in outline, intended to tit only perfect Ibrms. are regarded rin general
principles to give more satisfaction, and appear superior on an ill sliapetl form,

and that us ng actual measures may lead one to sacrifice to a great extent the
proportionate ajipearance."
This objection is merely founded on misapprehension as to how the principle

is applied , tor a study of the resulting system will show that it is fully calculated

to realize any advantage the proportionate basis may possess, while whatever

changes may be required according to measure, are only those where the dralt
is indubitably bettered thereby.
 —

Then, secondly, it is objected tliat even with the measure, we do not al\\a\s

produce a correct tit — one which cannot be improved by trying; on. But this

involves a contusion in reasoning. For it indifferent cutters, wJKitexer method

used, the result would be equal ; but if good practical workers, the additional

lielp will give the advantage to those using the new method.
The i'act is. however, that the general adoption of the principle should by
no means supersede the exercise of judgment in its application.

The individual qualifications of the cutter will discriminate in cases where

it ma}- be proper to adiiere to the proportionate method or not. Such cases may
be of constant occurrence, but they do not atlect the general ad\ antage of tl;e

modern tiieory, which is sufficiently established on a sound basis, as the result of

long experience.
Accepting, therefore, tliis sj'stem as the preferable one, we are able to enim-

ciatc the fimdamenlal theory of the modern sj'stem, which is :

I'hat tlie proportionate build and measures shall be used combined ; and
that, in order to carry out most eflectually this principle of combination, \\ e

adopt the measures as the most correct means to get a proportionate construction.
 THE MEASURES.
By Practical and Scientific Principles.

We now proceed to explain the measures — how to take them, and why
sucli as are taken are practicable.
Tlie measuring by the modern basis has for its object not onh* to obtain the

length, or to locate the main points of the draft, but the measure aught to, at the
same time, give us a comprehensive idea of the build and position of the figure.

B\' the relation of the back and front lengths as taken, we are at once in-

formed if the figure is proportionate, erect or stooping, and tliis in connection with
the blade measure, and the width of back, demonstrates to a certainty, and with
no cavil of doubt, what the figure requires.
But as we take the measures we shall explain their value and relation to the

draft.

The most important part, which we proceed to find is to locale two points
from which to measure from and to. First, we find wiiere the socket bone is at
neck, and make a mark there with chalk. Then take the conmion square and
lay it across the waist in such position that the long arm rest across the back, and
the short arm over hips at side. Thus it must rest close doNvn over the aip and
held firmly and level at both back aiul hip.
While in this position we mark at back and (hrectiy nnder arm at hip,

as F, and at upper edge ^<( t!ie square atC, (see figure i} : nuw these two marks
give the level of bottom i>i' \v;i.isl at two important places, and it is necessary
that care should be exercised in getting them correct.

I THE BACK LENGTH.

Illustrated by Figure i.

Now we come to measuring, which is first the back : for this we applv the

tape at socket bone, and measure down to the mark at waist, which will give the

actual length of the back. If the waist should be required longer than the natural
waist and according to st}le, we also take the length wanted without removing
the tape.
Next we appl}- the measure at the waist mark, and take the length to floor

for skirt. In tliis case we pay nu attention to the st\le, 'uit merely get the actual
length from waist to floor ; for should a short dress be wanted we can deduct in

the right proportion, and also add for trail.

 )

2 FRONT LENGTH.
Illustrated on Figure 2.
Is taken from tlie same point at back, down in front of shoulder to F at bot-
tom of waist at side, level with mark, and from front of arm straight down. Tliis
measure is of great use, and must be taken correct, not to close on such shoulders
as sink in at collar bone. It should not be drawn in too close at arm, but about
I inch in front. Giving as it does the position, we cannot be too careful in taking
it ; it siiould be taken rather easy.

3 WIDTH OF BACK.
From centre seam of back E between shoulders to arm P. This must be the
acU al size without regard to shape of dress measured over.

4 ARM-HOLE SIZE.
Close around arm-hole, but easy.

S HIGHT UNDER ARM.

The best way to take this is to have a small square made, which havinor a
sbort tape measure attached at inside corner can be applied under arm, and close
in front.

Tiiis square also luij AiioUier tape fastened on its upper edge within two
inciies of front, and hanging down, by which to measure the length under arm.
Place tins square under the arm so that it adhere close, but not so firm as to

CO ui-'t^l tlie person measured to raise the shoulder.

Hold it at backof arm with the left hand, and at the same time take hold of
the tape with the right hand, and measure down to the mark at waist at F-

Ai.-o .et the person extend her arm straight dovvnwanls, and measure to

wrist, for the length of sleeve, from H to |. (see figure 3.

Tills measure of hight under arm gives a sure guide for showing if the

arms, and therefore also the shoulders, are high up, or low down ; as in the c;ise

of liiuli s'nnulders, the measure will be longer tlian wnen low shoulders are ihu
case, and in both cases the arm is located in different positions.

6 THE BLADE MEASURE.

Illustrated hy Figure 4.

While the square is in the same position, slip the tape backwards over th.e

blade, taking notice that it IS smooth, and measure to centre of back over the

liiglu'st part of shoulder blade, and tJiis must be taken close. This measinx-
delerniines if the figure be full over blade or not. and in connuclinn wliji front

measure give us a clear idea of the figure, whethtr erect or stooping.

 7 BUST MEASURE.
The square hciiiy yel m the same position, by slip|»ing tlic t.npc round to

front, that it be straight and no wrinkles lUid'-^r .;rm, take the distance to centre of

body, over the highest i-ait ol boj^oin. as shown on ligure 5, from H to B- l-'-i '.h:s

hist be taken loose.

8 nil EAST MEASURE.
This is taken close under .". rui, around tlie body, over the fullest part o(
bosom and blade, and must be lal^en medium close — be sure in taking it that tlie

tape does not drop b;dow the shLni:^!r-r blade, or it would give to small a measure,
and with tlie viev.' of preventing ,«ucii an occurrence, it is better to stand hchind

the customer in taking :l.

It being tlie measure by which some imjiorlant points on the construction

draft are pr.;t!uced, it will be evident tliat it needs carelul aliention. (see fig. 3.)

9 THE WAIST.
This we take around the smallest part of the waist, wliere it is defmed the
sharpest, and it should be taken rather close.
It is well to become proficient in taking all these measures in a correct way-
Appl}' the tape smooth and even, neither close nor loose.

10 THE HIP MEASURE.

Figure 3.

Over the highest part of hip and closely taken, for all garments now worn
are close to body-
 THE PRACTICAL DRAFTING OF BODY WAISTS.
Ry Measure as taken on the Body. Illustrated v.y Figs. 6, 7, 8 and 9.

We shall now biggin to explain the system by which dress-waists are pro-
duced in conformity with the person measured ; we shall try and make this clear

by the use of diagrams illustrating every stage of drafting, and explain it so that

none may go amiss.

In order that we may more intelligently proceed to work, we shall give a

measure with which to draft this elementary pattern, and this measure being
taken from a mass of such in our book, and one very nearly of good proportion,
will bu found as good an example to connncnce with as any.
The measure we shall use, is Jlreast _^3, Waist 24, Back length 14^, Width
of back 6|, Arm-hole 16, Length undei- ;ivirj 7, Front of arm or over blade io\.
Front length iSi^. Now we first draw a Inie. about one inch from the edge of
paper. It is always better, as it is easier to be rlrawn upon, to use pattern paper
in order to produce the pattern, and far more economical than to draft it on the
cloth, both in time and material.
F F

^ E;Fig.

Fig 7.

o o
 Having drawn this line, as sho'.vn ni figure 6, we make a point at its lowei

edge 0, and at right angles with it draw another one to D- Next mark off from
upwards on front hne, the distance measured for height under arm (5lh meas
ure) which is 7 inciies, and dot £, (see figure 7). From E draw a Hne over to B,

also at right angles with line E 3. then measure from E over to B one-half oi
breast measure (35) equal 17^- inches ; this one-half of breast measure is always
sulhcient for point B on all tiill grown iorms and large persons, but when we
draft for children or very indifferently developed forms, it is necessary to increase

it h inch, this will make the draft easier for such form, and more nearly meeting
the requirement of a slim build Now placfc the tape at B and using point E as
pivot, sweep down to D, where the sweep cut hne 0, we make point D, (see fig-

81
•^

ure 8.) Next, place the straight edge on and B and along it draw a line 9 A.

which represents the centre of back. 7rom D upwards measure the length os

back (i4i inches), and from A draw a line over to N, v/hich latter is 2 inches over

trum A, then raise point 2 above N I inch and form the curve of back neck ;
again
place the square on the front edge in such a manner tliat wlien the long arm
reaches over it may just be at the same height as point 2, figure 8. This gives
both front and back of one height, or as we might say in good proportion : but
should the front be higher or lower, it would demonstrate a more erect or stooping
position, according as the deviation may be more or less.

Let us now turn to figure 9, for a further illustration of the manner of draft-

ing. From B to H on line under arm place the length of blade measure, or as
mostly called by name of "front of arm"' ; this measure is 10^. From B also forward
is placed the width of back to J. In the centre between the points J and H mark
I and draw perpendicular lines up at the three points. Then from I upwards
to R place one-quarter of the arm-hole measure (16) which is 4 inches, and from
R to 2 on top of back draw a straight line.
 The next step we will take, is to draw the back ; first by ciirving the shoul-
der line above straight lint: i inch, near arm-hole, and curving back to line again
near 2, and also from U form arm-hole towards S where it runs over the straight
line, thence curving downwards and below |. J, inch to H : we draw this line

inside at S because b)- measuring t'rom 7 we hjul die measure to leacl, less than
to the line, generally 4 inch. We make the back ;il bottom li lo 2 mches wide,
and draw the side seam troiri thence to S-

As style has greall\' to do wiiii the shape of the back, wc c;\:i here give
only an average shape as an exanicle. Tlu> seam however is changeable to

any position, without adectiiig the tit of the waist in the least.
From 6 at blade tbrin sidchudy to withiji \ inch of back 2, which gives C:
now place the front measure from P up towards Q, deducting from it the width
of back, and make a short sweep at Q. From line at F measure over to sweep
at Q one-eighth, of breasi measure for proportionate build, 2| inches.
In practice we use mostly the neck measure, which in most cases is easier
arrived at without taking it, for the majority of such sizes measure 15 inches.
Should the neck appear slim, 14 comes nearer ; it' short and stout, 16 would an-
swer better. This can easily be learned with a liltie practice in measuring. Yet
for some garments it is essential to have the neck size in order to cnnstruct the
waist close to measure. From F square with front draw a line, either above or
below as the measure happens to give it, to intersect sweep at point ij. Then
sweep from corner F by Q to 1, for neck. Measure from point U around tlie arm-
hn!e past 3, 1 and H to 16, the size of arm, and tix a jjoint at \b. (see tig. jO;.
Take the width ot back shoulder and place it from Q towai"ds 16, and hx
point, then curve front shoulder and finish, sa}' by going out bevond 10 a suitable

distance to make the arm-hole look a good shape, or about f inch

Form neck by dropping it ^ to | inch to Y. Then from Y, which is \ inch
inside of front line, curve out towards E ^ inch beyond the line, then going back
over line, draw it inside \ inch to T- Measm-e from Q to T the front length, less
width of back, and ^7 inch below it draw a straight line as tVom T to 11. Wc can
also take a measure down to bottom of waist at front, to get the correct Icnir'.'i

and apply it from Q to T-

In the middle from E and H, mark a point 5 — and also in the middle between
5 and H mark point 8-

Now we have come to the most difficult part of the dress — waist designiii'

which is placing the darts in their proper places.

 24

We shall take a proportionate build, and place them accordingly. Later on

we shall show under what conditions they require changing in position, yet the

manner of getting their size is the same in all cases, suitable and in harmony
with tiie measure.
We have a size of waist of 24 inches, one-half of which is 12. Now we find

by measuring the line D 0, that it is 15 inches, while it ought to be only 12, or

one-half the waist measure. The size deducted from the length 0, gives the

value to be taken out in one or more darts.

If, as in the case of many men, there were no taper to the waist, there would

be no darts needed : but as in every case of female form, the difference between
the size of breast and waist is considerable, then it becomes evident that this dit-

ference must be reir.oved by darts, in order that the waist may set close.

t Q
A

7/
y
As this difFerence between these two sizes determines the vrdue of the darts, it

is evident that the fuller the bosom, and smaller the waij-t, the larger will be the
chirts ; and in a contrary case, the flatter the breast, as compared to the waist, thr;

.smaller they are needed.

As we have already stated that the size of the waist should be 12 inches,

which deducted from the length leaves 3 inches, these are taken out in 2 darts,

each of a size of one-half of these 3 inches, or equal to li inch each. Now where
shall voe place them:' Divide the spa.".(; between P into 3 parts, which gis'es

points [{ and L. From 5 draw .1 line to K- From 8 one to L-

Then place the size of darts ftjiially on each side of line, that is ^^ of an inch
Irom .!{ to 7 and K to 6 • also from L to 3 and 4, and draw ihem 'ike the diagram.
Thev should not reacli up ovei" ^ of the distance from K to 5- I'lie one nearest
arm-hole can be \ inch higlier. See also a fciiowing article j.bi.nii the height ol
darts in different builds.

Now it remains only to finish the wrdst line from ]] to C, -unning it f above
line at G- Also drop point 9 (;ne-q!ip.rter below.
Then divide the side-bod}' from .d)0iit the centre between J and I to G, taking
out }, inch curve.
This concludes drafting '.he waist to measure ; and as every size, whatever the
measure, is produced idenlic.diy ihe same, only deviating in so far as the

measures may be of difTerent sizes ;i;id lengths.

 LARGE SIZE DRAFT.
Fig. II.

The manner of drafting this, as well as all kinds of waist-patterns, being

similar to those already explained, it seems quite unnecessary to go over any
lengthy discussion.
We will only make clearer some few points in regard to drafts of large sizes.

The points being produced by measures, by the same process as used in drafting

"igures 8 and lo. But one point we must be careful about, which is never to cut
lie shoulder broad on such large sizes. In fact, it never is necessary to go over
iuid outside of the line at U above S for width of shoulder.
 27

And again, as tlie measure by which this draft was reduced is: Breast 42^ ;

waist 34 ; length of back 15 width of back 7| arm-hole 18

; size over blade to
; ;

front of arm I2r, ; height under arm 6, and front length 20, we get a size corre-
sponding to tlie increased measure. We find also that the distance of line D

being 20, and half the wai^t but 17, an excess of 3 inches to be taken out in darts

at t'ront.

Then again, the space between back and first dart being so great in large
sizes, it will answer better to get a close, smooth fit, to put in tvo cuts, one at 6)
and one somewhat forward of G and between G and P. This will enable the waist
to fit closer over and along the waist.
At one point all large sizes deviate from ordinary build, this is that point P

should be lowered i inch below line. This is caused by the erect position gen-
erally accompanied by large size. Then from this point as changed, we start

our measure up to get the dis.ance of Q, and fix it by the measure.

It is also well to take the length from top to bottom at front on these sizes,

in order to better regulate the correct place it should be cut to.

In the matter of darts, in order that the form may appear to better advan-
tage, it seems right to place the darts -so that they reach well up. This will close

up better on bosom — a ibrm most necessary on this build.

 Body-waist Lengthened Below Waist-line.
Fig. 12.

This diagram shows two different shapes at the bottom. These deviations
of shapes are easily produced, and need no particnhir exphmation.
But to lengthen the waist so that it will be of a size to correspond witli the

size of the hips, and to put the amount in the right place, is what we shall now
make clear.

Clinging to our idea of thorough completeness in our work, befcue giving

the way of extra increase of size of hips, which on all proportionate forms is

generally 12 inches over waist, v/e shall find where this extra increase is met
with. We will take the standard of waist proportion to be 12 inches less than
hips, so that a waist of 24 inches would be accompanied with hips measuring 36.
This would not always hold good, and some would say that a greater difference
would be the general formation, but in the strictest proportionate figure, our
fij_!;ures would be right. Supposing then this diflerence to be 12 inches, there
would be 6 inches on a side to be added.

This amount is not distributed all around, neither is it distributed alike in

each indi\-idual, still the forms are so simihir in a large number of cases, that a

rule jviay be laid dovvri wliich will suit a large majority of forms.

The rale is that the largest amount of increase is at the sides, that one-half

of the increase is at 7, 8, 9 and 10, and one-fourth each at front and back.
Now figure 12 shows a draft for designing one of an increase in length. We
there have 3 inches to b^: aftd',.*d on one side, and ih inclies at back and i.] at

front.

From to B we go out to hip down ^ inch on back of scam, and the same
amtunt ot curve >in the side seams. On the side bod}' seams which join the
back, 've ad 1 h inch for a good curve.
At front the line is run along the straight line as on the diagram, with scarce-
Iv any increase to speak of; bat the darts are drawn down each seam, havino- a
curve o\ i^ inch.
Now it remains only to add on the side-body scam. Tliis will be, as we
have a sum of 3 inches to dispose of, giving a strong outward curve of i.^ inch.
When a great amount of increase is needed, it is always desirable to cut the

side-body narrow, and make another cut farther forward, like ',
J. In this case
 29

the amount ot" liip size can b2 jlivl.l^'.l between tlic two openings, giving ij for each.

The '"lottom can be re„'..lateJ to ranc\- or style.

 THE PRINCESS STYLE Dr^ESS.
After having drafted the dress-waist to measure, we cut it apart — that is

separate the back side-body and front, and b}' those separate parts design the
skirt for this garment.
The method here used puglit to be carefully gone over and thoroughly
learned, for every sack style garment is produced in the same way.
Lay the back pattern against a line at 0, and away from this line at waist at

6, 2 inches. (See fig. 15.) Then draw along the back pattern, and also from B

to length at C a straight line. If the dress ismade in a train skirt, this line

requires to be lengthened as it is needed. The width at the bottom is made

according to the requirements ot a close or loose fitting garment, and may be an

average of 12 inches.
From E to D draw a line, and on both seams curve somewhat out over hip.
The side-body (Fig. 14.) is laid also against a line, having its upper part
on line at A, and D being i.^ inch away from it. Curve the seam from down
beyond the line i?, inch and back to B-
From B to C is the same as the back and 2 or 3 inches more, then draw
from waist to C a line curving also over the straight one.
The front is laid down as shown, point C being i inch from line. From C to

D at bottom draw a straight line.

Measure from over to E. 25 inches, and draw a line from E to E. thence

curve over at hip near H very strongly for room for the hips.
The diagram is drafted to a shape verv nearly proportionate, and would in
its length and width be an average, but as the fiishion changes suitable changes
would be needed, especially in the width of the lower end of the skirt.

The darts are extended down below waist line, tapering to a sutEcient length,
so that they will give a good shape.
Apph' the hip measure, and make the dress 2 inches more, then add on or
take off on the side-seams, to accord witli it.
 THE SKIRT.
The drafting of skirts for dresses is a subject which has not been so clearly
and fully defined in text books, to my mind, as might be. Most all theorists

have their own peculiar point of producing a pattern, some of which are quite
wanting in a sound basis, either as regards balance or shape.
The much superior way of producing a skirt, in order to attain a perfect
balance and correct shape, is, undoubtedly, a mode similar to that used b}' tailors

in cutting the skirts of coats. Such a one, we have always found, would answer
every call made upon it, and give a skirt superior in hang and shape, and always
ready to be adapted to any style, however chanc;eable.
The diaoTam Figs. i6 and 17 will give an illustration of the manner in

which a skirt is drafted, and the following explanation will be sufficient for a
clear understand'ng of the method :

First draw a line like B. Then lay the pattern of front of waist on the line

in such a posit on thai the middle of breast be close to line, as at A, and the bot-
tom at waist I
away I'rom it at D. in fact in the same position as when drafted.

Now from shoulder point as pivot, sweep from R to front for top line. R is

the lowest wai?t point on side. Then lay the square on the front line so that the

short arm may run over and touch the curved line near 2, second dart, then draw
along it for upper edge.
Next measure the length of skirt from E at square line down to B for full

length of skirt.
Although the measure is taken at the back, yet we find the variation to be
so little that it will answer equ iliy as well for the length in front. Yet some
prefer, while measuring, io take the length in front as well, which, of course,
gives additional securit}'-.

From X as pivot sweep B to S and P. The size at bottom is regulated by

st}le. This for a medium size of 36 breast, would be i*f yard from B to P.

Some ladies even prefer a skirt so scant as onlj- to measure 2^ j-ards in the

whole circumference, which indeed is rather small.

It is, of course, self evident that stout ladies would in the same ratio need
a size of 3 j-ards or over, as the size of the person is large, or the desire is for a

room3- garment.
 34

Having placed point P, \vc put a long straight edge on to P and la}' it

in the direction of F- While so placed lay the square along upper part of
long edge, and move the two together till you form a square line from P by
F to R on waist point of front. Then draw along its upper edge from R to F

and also to P.

Now measure from F to R, and place the same distance from P to S, and
draw a line from S to R, which is for the back breadth.
Divide the distance S B into 3 parts for the 3 breadths. Break oft' at front

too at C 1^ inch and form the curve.

Divide the distance from R to E also in 3 parts and mark them. Then take
out the quantity of darts, whatever they may be, between 5, 6, 7, 9, and at 10.

Curve the seams and draw lines from top to bottom to separate the ditTerent
breadths.
This manner will produce a skirt for a walking dress, and is the base tor all

skirts, or any garment which reaches below the knee.

For a skirt longer at back, or a train, this method differs only in putting tiie

side-body on the upper seam of skirt in the manner shown by the diagram ; then
running a line down by the spring, and giving a slight curve, and springing out
beyond S to the extent of train wanted. In this case it requires to be longer from
the second breadth back.
The back is drafted with a straight line, the same as a short skirt, but its

length increased from line S to conform with it.

 SHORT SACK JACKET.
Fig. 19.
In cutting sacks, the first consideration is a good balance, and in order to
attain this, there is nor never can be a belter guide than the body-pattern to
follow. In using this, if it be good, we retain all its good points, and get the
same certainty of fit as we would in case of a dress-waist.
We take, for instance, the pattern of the back, lay it on a straight line like

fig. 18, so that the upper corner at the neck rests on the line at 0. and the lower
part be, for regular built, i?, inch away from the line as shown at C-

Now trace all along the pattern, following closely the edges. Then trom
at neck, measure down tlie length desired, and from i to 2 inches above C begin
to curve gradually out toward the straight line — this should be a continuous curve.
The style of these jackets being close, and for giving a narrower eiTect. it is

well not to make the back too wide for this reason make die bottom from; B to E 6
inches. From the point at waist i, draw curved line to E.
If the garment is intended to be heav)' and used as an over-garment, certain
additions are required at top. on back, on shoulder and at sleeve, \ inch. From
F commence adding with ] inch, increasing it till at we add i inch. From D
curve the line to E.

Draw a line, and place the s'de-body against it, with point H resting on it,

and the waist being i inch from B. (See fig. 20.) In cases where the hips are
very large, the the distance from B is i^ inch.
Now trace the side-body, and from D at waist, measure the length as pro-
duced by the back, then curve the side-line tVom to A-

Having got the right length, fix a point in the centre between D and i at

waist, and from it as pivot sweep from A to N- From i to N draw a straight line,

then curve over it considerably at hips, in order to have room for them.
Make the bottom of side-body as wide as the back.
When the back is cut i inch from D at waist, and it is intended as an outside

garment, it is always well to take a little of the width of the side, therefore then

go in at D on the side-body i inch, and then curve the side line.

The front (fig 21,) is drawn in the following wa}'. Draw a straight line,

like from to E. Lay the front pattern against it, when intended for a thin gar-

ment , but for a heavy one, let it be | of an inch from it at breast, and i inch at waist.
 37-

New trace the edges of the pnttern. From the waist hi front draw a line to
bottom at E. Place the side body from H to N, and by it get the length to F where-
ever it may be.
•

From shoulder point A as a pivot, sweep from F over to E. For an over-

garment add on at shoulder \ inch, the same at neck, one-quarter at H, going
out at N I inch.

Now take the measure of the hip ; find out how much the back and side-

body measure as they are cut, then apply the balance from the front over towards

the side. This measure gives the width the sack ought to be, and must be the full

measure and 2 inches over for seams and ease. This will give a point below N.

Then from N through this last point draw a line to the bottom at F.
Draw in the same darts, or when it is not wanted close one is used, and
then it running more forward at top.

Sometimes also a cut is taken out under the arm of i inch size.
 LOOSE SACKS.
Figs. 22 and 23.

In continuation of our endenvor of giving every style of cut. tlie diagrams 22

and 23, illustrate the manner of drafting a loose sack, such a garment as is usually
worn for a morning jacket, and well adapted also for an out-door garment, when
made out of suitable material.
This, like all our designs, is drafted by the body pattern, which is laid on to

a line at and 2 inches away from this line at the waist. Next measure down
and lix the point where the length is wanted, as at 6. Now from draw along
the back to 2, and next with a graceful curve to point 6.
 39

From as a pivot sweep from 6 over to 8. Now lay the side body against
the back in a simihir position as it occupied when being drafted, and draw along
the pattern on top of back, over the shoulder, along the arm to 7.

Make a point from the waist, 3 inches, as shown on the diagram, and then
from 7 through 3 draw a line to 8. This gives the back for a loose sack.

Should we want one closer fitting, we adopt the same means, but only make
it closer in size at the waist, and after drawing the line from 7 to 8, we also draw
one from the lower waist point of the side-body to 8, and cut the pattern out by
this last line, which gives one having a close fit at waist, and yet giving enough
material to cover the hips and the skirt well.
In drafting the front, take the body-pattern and lay it on the line so that it

may touch at A on top of the front at neck, and let the waist be 3 inches or 2^
inches away from the line at C.

Now trace all along the pattern at neck — over shoulder— along the the arm
hole.

For a loose sack we add 2 inches over the body-pattern at 2, lower waist
point at side, while for a close sack we draw from 2 to X. It is evident point X is

got b)' first placing 2 inches at waist, and then drawing the line for the loose gar-
ment.
Next apply the back along the front, which locates the length of the side-

seam on the front. Then sweep the bottom from the shoulder point as a pivot.
Add the lap in front 1J7 inches for single, and 2h inches for double-breasted.

LOOSE OVER-SACK.
Figs. 24 and 25.

We here introduce a plate of a Loose Over-sack, which is cut long and suit-

able for a Water-proof.

The similarity of this with figs. 22 and 23 is so close that it seems hardly
necessary to give any added description. Yet we will show where the difference

lies. The back is laid away from the line 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches on the

side. Over the back and shoulder, also on the arm, there is added, for an over
garment of Hght material, \ of an inch, and for one of heavy ^ of an inch. From
P, where it is J^ inch larger, we draw a straight line through 3 inches to bottom.

At front we lay the pattern ^ inch from line at breast, and 4 inches at waist.
 THE LONG OVER-SACK.
Cut by the Body-Pattern. Figs. 26, 27, 28, and 29.

In cutting a long sack, two points have to be decided : First, what must be
added for extra size ; and second, how much skirt is needed over hips to set well.

Garments made of light, thin material require less size than those of thick heavy
goods, and therefore the cutter's judgment is used to decide what additions should
be made.
But let us begin to draft. Draw a line like 8. Then lay the pattern of
back, resting on a line at and li inches from line at C. (See hg. 26.) Now
trace the back seam, and slightly curve it below C down to B. From apply
length wanted down to bottom, at B- From sweep over from B to F, and make
F 6 inches from B-
The size I give is for narrow skirt, such as are worn now, but can be
increased if a broad back is desired.
At R add i inch over back pattern, which makes back wider and better suit-
able for this style of garment. At E add \ inch lor thin goods, l for heavy.
Then shape the back as per diagram. At line over the hips both seams are
curved a trifle over the straight line.

The addition in width at E and on back is calculated for an ordinary pro-

portionate person ; but on flat-backed, very erect built, Vicver add any extra width
between the shoulders, for an over-garment, for if it is done, it will surely be
pushed back by the arm. This is because it requires no more width to cover a
flat surface ; but on a round back, on the contrary, we must add more because
that will take up more.
The Side-Body. Fig. 27.
On a straight line place the side-bodv. touching at S. and one inch from line
at bottom Then draw from S along side-body to and
E- I F, curving over hips.
Should the hips be full, make the d'stance from E one and a half inches to |.

The side-bodv point D is moved over J inch, and from D we draw the blade

line coming in h inch at bottom l\. Make bs-ttom F to A 6 inches.

Apply the back at and find the length ; then at centre H E sweep tor bottom.
Till': Front. Fig. 28.
On a straight line lay the pattern so that the centre of front rests within J

inch of line, and bottom K i inch, then trace along s\e E to C, and tVom C draw
the side seam i inch outside ot U-
 43-

Next lay the side-body on C, and N on F to get length. Then measure over
hips on the back and side-body as cut, and lay the balance ot the measure on
front, adding on 2 inches extra, and get point P; now from N through P, draw a
line, and curve beyond it h inch for the side-seam.

Add on shoulder ^ inch, advance point A \ inch avd form gorge to J. Sweep
from A as pivot by F for bottom to g.
Draw front line J D K to B I over front, and then add for lapel for single or
double-breasted, according to the style wanted.
Place darts farther back, (see fig. 3,) and make them I inch less in size.
The Sleeve. Fig. 29.
The addition on this is i inch on back seam, ^ on top and i inch on lower
sleeve seam, also i longer, as shown on diagram.
 WALKING JACKET.
Figs. 30 to 34.

The smart looking jacket of whicli is given a design as it looks when clone,

IF now much worn, especially by )'oung ladies. It tiierefore should have a smart
:ippearance, which can be produced by finely sliapeci lines. With this in view it

becomes necessar}- that the seams in the back should have no sudden round over
side-bod}-, but only a gradual curve.

The seam on shoulder must be iiigh up. To produce a good close-fitting

skirt, it is necessary that the lower edge or bottcm. clinj in to the dress, for when
it sticks out it detracts from the style and spoils the ^vhoe garment.
In order to produce a skirt v.itl) these essential Tualilicauons. the top line
fvrm R to back plait is dropped down i inch from s'veep. The waist seam is made
I inch longer, and this extra is shrunk in, giving more room over the hips, and
l^reventing the tendency of gaping behind.
Our diagram gives a double-breasted iacket . tins, as is evident, can be
changed to a single or to any style of cut-av.'a}/

In order to produce the pattern, having all the good qualities of a fit, we take
ihe bodv-pattern, as cut to anv measure. Oi rin^ pattern we place the back on a
line previously drawn on paper, touching al C. and moving C a.t bottom of the
waist away from the line li inch. Then curve tlie back seam a little above C,
adding over C \ inch, thence running down to B at bottom to length wanted.
In measuring for jackets, alwavs take, li-side's the nattn-al waist length, also
an extra length where it would appear best that the se; m should be; this is the

m' St prominent part of the hips, and is generrdly 4 to 5 inches below the waist.
This extra lenj^t'i of waist seam is placed from the waist pattern down from
C to the honk.
As this is an over garment, we allow | to h ;:f an inch for making up. as the
goods ma}- be of light or heavy material. l""!-.!;-.! on lop of back, on shoulder
and at arm hole add this amount over wa>;-pa;tern. At F add a trifle, going
down to 0. which latter point is i inch from the jiattern. thence with a slight curve
to the bottom at E. The distance from B to E is about 5 inches.
Then add also lor the plait and hook. Before proceeding further, let us
observe that on a flat back the width of back must not be increased at F.

Next take the side-body, which place against a straight line , point H touch-
ing at this line, and the waist point being i mch from line at B, for all ordinary
 46

forms. But on all such forms whose increase of hips is more than lo inches over
tlie waist, we move the waist away from the line at this point i^ inch. Then
draw along the side body from i] to i and K, touching line at H- The distance

down from B to N is regulated by the length on back from D to button.

The top of the side-body point is moved over to F \ to ^ inch, then from F
draw the seam touching at the full round of the blade, and from thence gradually
go inside until wo arrive at a point i inch inside of lower point of side body at D,

and down with a slight outward curve to A. Now apply the length of back and
rectify that of tlie side-bodv.

The FoRErART. Figs. 33 and 34.

Draw a line E, and on it lay the front, so that it is within | inch of the line
at breast, and J iiicii at waist. Then draw the front line outs'de ot the body-
pattern, } inch ; this will give extra width to the jacket, all along from top to

b(jtlom. Draw ;ilso tlie neck, adding ^ inch : then the shoulder, adding \ inch

to C ; thr-nce along the ra'm-hole to H. At H we add h inch, and at N i inch.

Draw the .;,i;t.s, extending them downward, by curving below like our diag.,
giving nut too much curve, and leaving the piece between the darts pretty nearly
straight. Frou: N to R spring out the line.

Next take t^.:- liip measure, and deducting from it the width of tlie back and
side-body, apjiiy it at i in front, and measure to R, adding to the measure 2 inch-

es, and :-aovir:g- point R in or out to the s'ze.

i\i)\\ apniv the side-body at H down to R, to get the correct length, and leave
it. In a ciosinf; -position touching at R and up along the seam an inch or two.
Then from A, top of shoulder point as pivot, sweep from A on side-body, past R

to the front. F.ay tlie square at front line, and touciiing at first dart, draw the
sweep straigiit from thence forward.
Then add for lapel, making it 2I inches at waist, 3 inches at breast at top.
Also lurther regulate the front shoulder by the back.
Drop the skirt line from the th'st dart h inch to P.

From R to back plait we change the sweep by curving it downward i inch

below the sweep. Then place the sidi-bDdy on this changed line in a closing
position on waist seam, and draw the plait line by laying tlie square on the spring
of the side-body and along it draw the plait to the bottom F.

Now measure the length by the back, and sweep the bottom from F to the

front by A, the shoulder point.

Finish by curving plait line over straight h'ne h inch.
 THE CIRCULAR.
Fig. 35.

This garment, although made up in a variety pf different styles and shapes,

sUU in all will retain the simple construction, as given in the diagram.
In order to design them, the waist pattern is also used as base to work from.
This is laid on a straight line close at D and about two inches inside oi' line at

bottom of back, C-

Then place the front closing at sleeve head on shouMer E. and placed so
that a right-angled line from will run along the front to K.

For a very large, loose garment, having a great deal of drLi])ery hanging
down from the shoulder, we can move the front pattern out uiore, still letting it

touch at E closely to back, which of course causes point P to come closer ro back.
Then we will have to draw the front line tVom S front 01 biea.~l to K. Icriving

always about i inch distance from J.

For a close-hawging garment, the opposite to this is done, and the pf.ltern ;:•.

moved the otiier way ; that is, closer towards the centre, which car.ses ;jo;rit P ^x>

be farther away from back. The front line then is drawn by the front, and
the balance drafted by tlu: same manner one as another. Now trace nljrg tl-.e

pattern for the top of back, and both shoulders and neck, to R.
Then draw a line from back point to P, on t'ront shoulder point and dot
between the two points in the centre. From this centre make a line to E.

Next measure the length desired from on back to B, or wherever it mav

reach to. Then sweep the lower edge from 6 to front at K b}' F as pi/ot. 'J'li:^;

circle needs straightening both at back and at front, square with from and liat k
line, as shown at B and K-

From R to S we retain the curve of front pattern, thence Lhe tVoii" is ';aken

along the straight line to bottom.

Whatever size, and whether close or loose-cut circular is drafted, the f.oiut

L is always the pivot for the lower circular edge.

Sometimes it is advisable to cut thetn with a seam ruti-.i-ntr o\'er sl-oiihler

down through the centre to bottom. Then the centre of the back is laid on the
fold of the goods, which obviates a seam in back.
These slight modifications can easily be determined without further expla-
nation, and to any practical cutter any variations may at once occur.
 TALMAS, OR WRAPS,
Fig. 36,

Are, in general construction, similar to a circular, as regards the shoulders

and neck, and also the covering tor the back. Therefore a method identical is

used in designing them.

The only difference is attributable to the front, where it is cut either with
taps coming down low and cut square, or when it is cut the same in shape at

front as at the back.

After the pattern has been laid on the line, we follow along it to the waist,

and then curve it to line again.

Drait the shoulders and neck, and when it is intended to come to the front,
we simply follow that of the waist pattern, and form the lower part in any shape
we desire, while the back may retain the shape we have designed on the diagram.
However, when we want one cut in a very close form, and simply hanging
down from the shoulder, then the front line deviates so far, that it starts from the
shoulder point, and takes the curve of front to waist, thence curving inwards to
bottom, similar in shape to our diagram.
It is difficult to give any close rule to adhere to in forming this garment. The
only point is the shoulders, which must be produced by the shoulders of the body-
pattern ; the lower points are as yet only a matter of taste, and must be pro-

duced by the judgment, and there are such a variety of different changes, that

it would be impossible, in a work of such limits as this, to give more than a gen-

eral idea.
 THE SLEEVED TALMA.
Figs. ;)7 and 38.

The garment here represented takes bn more the nature of the Dolman but ;

as it is one made genei-ally of hghl summer goods, and merely a wrap, it may be

placed in the same class as Talmas proper. It has, as will Ije seen, the French
back and a circular, loose sleeve.

In order to drai't it, we use liie body pattern, and we may again state that no
manner of drafting gives such a guaranty of tit and ease in worliing as this.

Lay the back on a straight line touching at 0, and i inch trom D- Then
draw along the pattern from to 1. Apply the length wanted to C- From i to

C draw a straight line.

Also draw along top of back and shoulder. Then make the hack at D as
wide as the style should make it, say 3 inches. Then at C to F place 5 inches.
Ninv irom B draw a nice curved line to E and F.

.N'exi place your sleeve pattern in such position, notch of sleeve on the back
notch, and when a wide sleeve is wanted swing the lower part ot the sleeve far-
ther out fiom back, and when a close sleeve is desired, nearer to back. An
ordinary distance is when it is in such a position that from S to back at i it may
measure 24 inches. Having placed the sleeve as wanted, draw from 6 along
the top of the sleeve, making it a little scanter than sleevtt-h.ead at front, and
curving down along front seam to S-

Now from shoulder point of back in front of as plvor, sweep from S ; or if it

is wanted t'--..t the skcve should come down to the bottom of back, then sweep
from F, when it probably will come to SO- Then draft the sii.ipe of bottom as may
be desired, but be sure not to make the front any longer than paciern sleeve at

S. This will produce the sleeve and the back in one piece. Should it be desired
to have the French back, then draw from B towards E, and at E take out a space
of I inch, thence to nothing at F.

It siiould ahvavs be borne in mind, whatever the st\ le, be sure and Jiot retain

the full round of sleeve head, but, on the contrary, lake off the round in front,

only retaining the hight, which is essential, otherwise it would pull down on the

shoulder.
Turning now to the front, lay the front pattern of waist model against a line

previously drawn on the paper, and let it touch on llie middle of the breast, as at

0, and be 1 1 inch away from line at waist H-

 53

Now trace aJorg the pattern, retaining the same front, neck, shoulder and
arm-hole seams. Now lay the sleeve on the back, (we mean the loose sleeve
Just drafted, ) so that the exact point where the front arm seam comes, which
ought to De notched, will rest on C- This is found by measuring the sleeve head.
We allow for fullness of top i inch. Now supposing this sleeve head measured
8 inches, we would measure off from F on front shoulder to C, 7 inches ; leaving
the I inch to be worked in on top of the sleeve. Make a dot on C, place the
sleeve on C. notch on dot, and swing the bottom out to 0. This will be easily
determined if nearly far enough, for a curved line drawn along the side seam oi
forepart, from under the arm to waist, and thence sprung out, as is customary
for hips, will bring it about right.
Then mark the length by the length of sleeve, for where the lower part at

S comes to is found point D.

Now curve your bottom line of front to suit any shape desired. The front is

made in many different ways — it may be cut perfectly circular ; or longer at A ;

or again straight across from D towards the front, about half-way, and then mak-
ing a square-shape piece of point A.
 THE SURTOUT.
Tlate oU.

Tiiic 15ai_k. Fii;. i.

Take the waist pattern and lay it on a straight edge at 0< and li inch in
from line at bottom of back. (See tig. i.) Draw the back line along back to
ij, thence down to D- Now measure from to 0, the extended waist, and to

E full length. Draw from D to E a straight line, lea\ing i inch for tack at D.
Next add over pattern at top \ inch, on shoulder h inch, at scye \ for flat
back, for round i inch.

At bottom we make the back wider by adding i.', inch at A, and from A to F
draw a straight line, then curve it at R l inch over straight line.
From E to F make the back skirt 5 inches.

The Side-Body. Fi<;. 2.

Draw a straight line and lay C of the side-body on it at top, and i inch
away from it at waist. Then draw the outlines. Then from C draw the side

seam along side-body, but I inch outside from it at i, thence curving to F.

From P run along the side-body, and curve it i incii in.side at natural waist,

and curving out for spring to E. Finish the line at bottom from E to F-
'
The Front. Fk;. 3.

First draw a straight line like and B. Then \n\ the pattern so that the
upper part of breast lay within I inch of it, and i inch away at S- Ni^w draw
the front line of breast fro.-n top }, from and larger than waist pattern, to ? an;! D-

Also draw the shoulder, making it

I
over pattern, and als3 add ] at slioulder
point, and i along at neck near lapel. Draw the scye; at N add h inch, to i

inch for ease at waist i : thence curving out to E.

Make the darts the same size, adding only seams.

Now lay side seam of side-body on to front to get the length at E. Having
the length, sweep from E to at front, making shoulder-point the piv.it, then let

the front be square with front line from first dart to D.

Extend the darts down to bottom of front, giving^ach seam a slight curve,
as shown in the diagram to give it shape. .Now last apply the hip measure to
see if the size is correct : should the draft be too small add on at E more round,
and on side bodv at F also.
Plate 39
 Never spring point E on side-body niich, as ladies' garments do not hear
it at that point. Some ladies are full in front, especially those who are stout
built; such would need more round added on the darts at and i. 2 antl 3.

For single-breasted add o\er front line li to2 inches. Double-breasted add
on 3 at breast, 2^ at waist 3 inches at lapel for lap.
The Skirt, Fic. 4.
Extend the front line down to F and B, Lay the front pattern as produced

by the foregoing, in such a position as shown in the diagram.

Now first sweep from point E to F. This sweep will run above F ; straighten

this by laying the square on front line at F and touching sweep at first dart.

As the skirts by this style are made just scant enough to cover the dress, with-
out surplus fullness, we must curve the upper seam more downwards from E to P,
instead of following the sweep. By following andmaking the upper seam of the
shape of sweep, our skirt would be apt, when done, to hang in a fold at bottom at
Ml, which it ought never to do. Therefore point P is lowered below the sweep I

to I inch as shown. Also add on above the sweep a curve of I inch between points

E and just above the flap, which gives a better shape.

Now lay the side-body on this line, and with the straight edge placed along
the spring of side-body, draw the line from P to C, then curve out over this line
.
for the plait, | of inch.

Apply the length of back to get the length of skirt. Then sweep for the

bottom from the shoulder point, which finishes the surtout.

The sleeve is enlarged like all for over-garments.
 THE SLEEVE.
Figs. 40 ano 41.
Every one knows that the sleeve facilitates or hinders the movement of the
nrm : but many are not aware that it may be the cause of a general derangement
of the " ica/'si,'" when badl}' cut or ]">ut in the arm-hole.
To produce all the good qualities required in a perfect sleeve, carefulness
must be used while cutting it, that it be based on the form of the arm-hole, and
in harmony with the position of the tbrm.
The " conditions of a perfect sleeve" are. ist, that it must be just the length
oi the measure taken, to the wrist, where the wearer prefers it. a thing im-
possible by any other way of measuring than ours ; 2d , when the arm hano-s
natural, it must touch in front at the cufi' at wrist, and any extra width produced
by fashion must be added, and should hang back ; 3d, the top of the sleeve
requires to be of a size proportionate to that of the arm-hole, to enable the wearer
to raise her arm horrizontal without too great a strain upwards on the wai.st,

and thus causing a drag ; 4th, when the arm is at rest, the top should curve around
like a cylinder, and not lay flat — this can be produced by a judicious distribudon
of the fullness.
The curved line that forms the top of the sleeve is not the result of a capricious
inspiration, but an operation based on geometrical principles. For an explicit
and comprehensive demonstration of the theory on which sleeves are desitmed,
and the particular shape inherent to them, would require more space than is at

our disposal and belongs to a more elaborate work ; vet our explanations will give
a suOicient guide for all practical purposes.

The Manner of Drafting Sleeves.

We can see by looking on the diagram, tig. 40, that the sleeve is bounded
in front and back by the perpendicular lines, which on all proportionate s'lapes
are apart one-half of the scye. And that from the line under the arm, which
is the breast-line., to the line at top, R, is one-fourtii.

This square we adopt as a guide in drafting the sleeve. We first dra\\' line

16, and square at top line B- Now from we go down one-fourth of arni-holc,
which is for a 16 scve 4 inclies to point 4.
 Now divide this distance into 4 parts, which will make them apart i inch,

and draw lines across at ever}' point. Next, from to B is i of scve. or in this
case 8 inches. Now draw a line from 4 to B, and make point C in the middle
from the two points. From thence draw a short straight line to H, square with
line 48- H is from C one-third of the scye, or 2-| inches.

Now take the tape, and H as pivot, sweep the top curve from F each way-
F is just above H in a perpendicular line.

Now from 4 measure length of arm (16) to point 16. At half the distance
 )

59-

make line i-J, and dot in at i one inch to form the front lines by. Also draw back
lines from B down to N parallel with front. Square with line P i6 draw line lor

bottom and make width to st\le (5 inches.

Now turn to diagram 41 ; finish top curve from D to 4 and E to L which must
be on line A L, in a slight curve. Curve the front and back seams like diagram.
From straight down draw a line to P for lower sleeve, and curve it so that

it will be i inch inside of top sleeve at P coming to 16.

The distance gone out from E to L is placed inside from E to A to get point A.
Now draw undersleeve from A to front near 4, dropping \ below line.

Draw from A down a line perpendicular to K, thence to R.

The sleeve must be close as that is the prevailing style, and should be curved
in some below L and A-
Point E sews in on back notch, and point at front, they being half of the
sleeve, with some added for fullness at top.
 «

.«,

CM
 THE DOLMAN.
Of all the garments which are usually made by tailors, the one presenting
the greatest difficulties, both to the cutter and the maker, is undoubtedly the
" Dolman." That is to say, when it should lit well and be well made.
The difficulties are associated with special features, which may almost be
said to belong entirely to this garment. To begin with, the dolman is a loose
wrap, and yet it should give the form of the. body, and while a piece of tape is

placed inside at back, in order to tie around the waist, and hold it close, to the

body, } et ii must have such a form in the hack, as will retain the peculiar cut,
more striking in this than anv other garment.
The shoulder, in order to place the sleeve seam in the proper place, high up,
must be cut narrow, which counteracts the tendency of the sloping form of shoulder,
so liable to occur more on this than any other outside garment.
The sleeve should have just the right proportion of fullness, so that it may
hang gracefully without drawing. The front should also be narrow, so that the

swing of sleeve be forward, and although the leading features must take on more
or less the same form in each garment, yet there is, perhaps, none with greater
variety of style in the various details as round and square sleeve.
In order to overcome the several difficulties in designing this, let us, first ofall,

take up the original " Dolman," which is a loose sack form, with a flowing sleeve.
By commencing with this, we will acquire the principle more readily, and thus
be better able to design intelligentlv any other style.
As will be seen on diag. 42, the back is laid on a line at 0, and i inch from
it at B- From to C place the back lengtii as wanted. Now lay the side-bodv
against the back, close at top, and about 2 inches from it at waist, point 2.

From I opposite B to C draw a straight line, and trace along the back pattern
from to 4 and F, F is ^ inch inside of pattern at point G, making the shoukU r

narrower. Draw from F around arm-hole to H. From H side-body point of pat-

tern to E is I inch. From lower side point at 2 place outwards 2 inches.
Now from E through dot at 2 draw a straight line, which will reach to 0.

From 4 as pivot, sweep lower line from C to D.

We now take the forepart, diag. 43, and lay it within I inch of line at ;j,

centre of breast, and ih inch away from it at F- While in this position trace

along the'edges of the pattern, so that it will be marked out on the paper. Then
 62.

tVom C up to lo add i inch, and draw the sliouldtr from lo to nothing at D.

Diaw ^ inch outside of H to top of front, K-aving the straijfht line from H down-
wards, the front line of dolman.
On the side add i inch at E- Now place the hip measure from the front to N,
on side, deducting the width of back, but adding 3 inches more for ease and fix

point N. From E through N draw a straight line, which gives point B-

Apply the back at E to get the length. Then from C shoulder point as pivot
sweep iVom B to A tlie bottom line. Also appl}' tiie back on shoulder, and regu-
late by it the front shoulder at 0-
When a closer garment is wanted, having more shape at side, then the side-

seams of the back and the front are curved inward about i inch each, and a cut

is put in also under the arm, which suppresses the extra luUness above the hips.
When the pattern is drafted, the arm-hole is also pared out about i inch lower.

On diag. 44 a line is drawn and the sleeve laid down i| inch from 5, and 5

inches from 0- Then trace along the round top of sleeve. When the shoulder

has been made narrower, add over the top of sleeve the same amount taken off

shoulder.
The front of sleeve seam is curved out from the pattern at point i 3 inches.

This is done, that it may not wrinkle much at inside of arm-seam, when the arms
are crooked up or while being carried in a muff. This peculiarity of dolmans,
the crooked sleeve, should be careluily looked at, for only in this way can a

good sleeve be produced, one that will hang smooth when arm is bent.

Form the lower part of sleeve in any desired shape. To get the correct

length stick a pin at centre oi sleeve near elbow, and move the bottom of pat-
tern forward to 2. Then make point 2 the same length as the sleeve pattern.

This sleeve is sewed in like any other.

Let us now turn to fig. 45. This diagram shows the sleeve attached to the

back, and giving a step t'urther in the construction of dolmans.

When the back has been drafted as by our previous explanations, then lay
the pattern of the sleeve against it, so tiiat the notch on it will be on the notch of
the back, and place a pin at notch to hold it in place. Then swing it forward, or
back as it should be to produce the right quantity of fullness wanted.
It will give a loose sleeve when it lays in such a position that the back seam
is close to 8, and an}^ distance farther away from point 8, will give a larger fullness.

A close sleeve will be produced when it is swung back so far that the- seam
 63-

overlaps S more or less. The farthest point of closLncss wou'd be when it covers

point 8 one inch. Whatever size is desired, the subsequent drafting is the same"
Now trace along the top from N to F. and down to the middle of forearm
seams. Remove the pin at notch without disturbing tiie position of the sleeve,

and stick it at the centre, point A, opposite the elbow, then swing the sleeve tor-

ward toward 5 so far that it gives the shape of the arm, crooked as it is when
held up in a mutl'.

Now mark the front seam from H to 5, and fix the length of the sleeve-
pattern at 5. Then by the shoulder point of back, sweep tVom 5 to the back at 1,

or make the lower part of the sleeve any shape called for.

The front, fig. 46, is produced the same as diag. 43. It shows turther how
the sleeve is put in, the front point i is sewed in at J, which latter is the front

of one-half of the armhole. It will thus give the regular amount of fullness

to be laid over the sleeve-head.

The lower sleeve is cut by the upper, along the front from i to 4, and along
the armhole from i to 6 to within 3 inches of N, and this is sewed in like any
other sleeve. Then cut from 6 down
it to 5, and curve over tVom 5 to 4.
Of course it is evident the line from 6 to 5 remain loose, which gives play
to the movement of the arms.
We now come to fig. 47 for a further illustration. This figure being
drafted by the explanations thus tar given, and the sleeve being designed, we
now will draft the French back. This is done by starting from F, curving a
line to blade, thence to 2 at waist, which is about 2 inches from the back
pattern,and making the whole width 4 to 5 inches. From 2 we curve outward
toward Q and at bottom. The distance between C and is made 5 or 6 inches.
I I

Then, again, start at blade, and begin to separate from the line just drawn,
till at waist we have i.^ inch space, then come back gradually to line again atQ.
This taking out such a cut, gives the back a closer shaper Notch point G
where it goes on to r- Curve upper part of sleeve from G to 6 and J. above the
sleeve pattern to match the narrower back, and begin to flatten it at 6, going
inside of pattern lully i inch at J, where a dot is made. Thence go down 2 inches

from J, and dot also. From 2 draw to inside elbow, and front of sleeve at L. On
this diagram point L is represented too low down, fa fault of the engraver) . It

should, to give the correct shape, be 2 inches above where it is drawn.

The front being drafted by the same process as diag. 43, we will now change
 65-

it to a ditVerent style, in harmom' with the liack and sleeve of fiLf- 4/' by first

drawing the curved line from D which is made as narrow as shoidder to fit the

back, to S- Point S is the front notch where steeve is sewed in. From S dratt

down to K and V; or we can make yet a larger opening for the armhole, and
draw it from K to R and Q-

When the back is cut from Q to |. it is clear the extra width cut away, which
is the piece R, D. and I, it must be added to the front, where it is represented by
the letters R, D, B. Q- This is then cut in one piece with the front, when the

goods is wide enough, but in cutting a large or long garment the material will be
found too narrow, when it is better that the piece be cut from R to B, making a

straight seam, in preference to adding a three-cornered wheelpiece at bottom.

Before cutting the pattern by the last lines drawn, let us retain the piece at

S, E and V, till the tinder sleeve has been drafted. This is best done by laying
the front against the back closing at P (see fig. 49,) and at bottom N. Put a
weight on it to hold it in place.

Now, for a close fit over the dress, the piece taken off the back and, added to

the front, will be found too large, just the amount between the curve at X, X,

which then is taken off at 0, E, and a line drawn from to bottom.

To produce the lower sleeve, draft it out on the upper sleeve, then it can
afterwards be traced out on another paper. The first thing is to raise the upper
sleeve above the front pattern', in order to handle it better, then take hold of

it at lower point 6, and move it towards the back, b}- folding it upwards till point
H of the sleeve be resting at A of forepart, then C will touch D, which must be
marked. While it is in this position 5 will touch F. Draw along from A to F,

which giv-es line for under sleeve from C to 5. Then curve over from 5 to 4 for
lower edge.
In sew'ing it in the armhole, point H goes on to A, point C to and the under
sleeve from C to 5 is sewed on from to F- Point is sewed on to E, and the
opening left from F to is taped.
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