Evaluation of Shampoos
Evaluation of Shampoos
Evaluation of Shampoos
Shampoos
MARSHALL SORKIN, M.S., BERTRAM SHAPIRO, B.S., and
GUS S. KASS, B.S.*
Synopsis•ppearance, performance during use, and effect on hair after use are the three
major criteria by which shampoosshouldbe evaluated. Within these three broad categories,
25 separate characteristics arc enumerated. The importance of each of these and laboratory
and beauty salon test proceduresfor evaluating shampoosare discussed.
INTRODUCTION
8. Fragrance
9. Sterility
The second group of qualities relates to or is directly concerned
with the actual performanceon the hair and includes:
10. Foam production--hard water
11. Foam production--soft water
12. Foam production--hard water plus soil
13. Foam stability
14. Foam texture
SHAMPOO EVALUATION
Clarity
From a consumerpoint of view, the general outward appearanceof
the shampoois the first contact with the product itself, stripped of its
outer coveringof label and package. For this reasonit is most impor-
tant that a clear shampoo be manufactured with maximum care. A
shampoowith sparkling clarity has obviouslygreater consumerappeal
that one that is hazy.
The danger in formulating clear shampoosis loss of clarity with
aging, a fairly commondefect. Only thorough stability testing of the
shampoowill reveal this problem so that measurescan be taken to solve
it. Among the factors contributing to lossof clarity are temperature,
perfume, water hardness,contaminationby microorganisms,and water-
insolublefatty compoundsusedas hair conditioningagents.
Cloud point and clear point evaluationsare important in order to
maintain clarity under a range of colder-than-normaltemperatures.
542 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
Viscosity
Liquid shampooscomprisethe largest share of the shampoomarket,
with clearliquid shampoosaccountingfor better than 50% of the market.
Among the most important characteristicsof these productsis viscosity
which may range from water-thin products to viscousliquids. There
are both psychologicaland practical advantages to relatively high vis-
cosity liquid shampoos. They often imply a high. concentration of
shampooingredients plus a richness that is usually associatedwith
hair conditioningand management. There is also a practical value.
High viscosityliquid shampooscan be pouredinto the palm of the hand
for application to the hair, thus eliminating dripping through the fingers
or down the face and neck.
A desirable viscosity range will vary between 500 and 1500 cps.
Shampooshaving viscositiesbelow this level tend to be runny; and if the
viscosity is over 2000 cps., they may not pour too well. Maintaining
viscosity within a close range over a long period of time can some-
times be a problem. Here again, stability testing is of utmost im-
portance.
Color
( 'olor •¾tab
ilit y
In selecting the color to be used, color stability or instability can
become a problem. Many of the certified dyes used are sensitive to
light, pH, and other chemical factors. It should be unnecessaryto
state that every shampooshouldbe thoroughly tested for light stability.
Sinceit is not always convenientto set the product in the sun and since
the results are not reproducible, a commercial "fadeometer" may be
used to determine color stability. In such equipment the shampoois
exposedto high intensity ultraviolet light under controlled conditions.
A minimum exposureof six hours with negligible or no color changeis
usually consideredacceptable.
Incidentally, oneof the pitfalls to be avoidedin light exposurestudies
is to test the shampooin a containermade from the samematerial as the
ultimate package. It is not unusual to find a color that may fade in
glassbut is stable in a given plastic and viceversa. With the de-listing
of many certified colors,the problem of finding a suitable color that is
stable to light has increased. The use of ultraviolet absorbents in the
shampoo can be extremely helpful in improving the light stability of
fugitive colors. Some container manufacturers are coating their glass
or plastic bottles with ultraviolet absorbentswhich serve the same pur-
pose.
A third area where the color of a shampooshould be evaluated is
one that is frequently overlooked. Some hair, and this is especially
true of bleachedand permanently waved hair, is quite porousand may
absorb the color from the shampoo. Here again, pH and chemical
compositionof the product may be contributingfactors. Only thorough
testing on laboratory hair swatchesand subsequentapplication to sub-
jects with bleachedor permanently waved hair will determine whether
this problem exists.
pH
The pH of a shampoomay have definiteeffectsupon its properties.
Most liquid shampoostoday are formulated to have a pH between 6.5
and 8.5. Within this range a suitableviscosityand clarity can usually
be achieved,as well as goodstability and lathering properties. A few
generalizationscan be made concerningthe effectsof pH on a typical
clear shampooformulation:
1. Shampoosformulated on the high side of the pH range will
exhibit a greater degree of foaming and cleansing as well as a
greater ability to strip the natural oils from the hair.
544 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
Fragrance
The fragrance of a shampoois a most important quality. It can
add a touch of cosmetic eleganceto the product plus an air of distinc-
tion. It can significantly influence the consumer whether or not to
purchasethe product initially or to repurchase it. It is the authors'
opinion that a shampoofragrance should be a light and clean bouquet;
but the perfume type will be dictated by whether the shampoo is mar-
keted primarily to women, men, children, or for family use.
The shampoo fragrance should be evaluated critically at three dif-
ferent stages. First, the productitself in the bottle. A buye) will
often remove the cap and sniff the product at the shelf or counter. Does
it have a light refreshing scent with high appeal? Is the shampoofree
of a chemical or detergent odor; is it effectively masked? Does the
fragrance appeal to the consumergroup to whom the shampoois di-
rected? The fragrance at point of purchasecan often make or prevent
a sale.
The secondtime that the fragrance may elicit a responsefrom the
consumeris during application to the hair. The use of hot water plus
the fact that shampoosare often applied to the hair in a confinedarea,
such as the bathroom or shower,can result in a fragrance changenotice-
able in the lather and in the atmosphere. The fragrance should retain
its basic characteristicswithout becoming overpowering.
The third important stageis the fragranceof the hair after shampoo-
ing. The hair should retain an almost imperceptiblescent. Certain
perfumetypes shouldbe avoided,suchas heavy, sweettypes which tend
to cling to the hair. Hair that hasbeenbleachedor permanentlywaved
PRACTICAL EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS 545
Sterility
For some reason cosmeticchemists often disregard or minimize the
potential problemof shampoocontaminationby microorganisms. They
would not consider marketing a cream or lotion that is inadequately
preserved,but shampoosare often found without preservatives. There
is a mistaken notion that, since sulfated lauryl alcohol and sulfated
ethers are consideredantagonistic to bacterial and fungal growth, no
contamination problems exist in shampoos. Several investigators
(1, 2) have shownthat this is only partly true, and shampoos are often
found that give high bacterial counts--particularly of gram-negative
bacteria. This has been confirmedby the authors' experienceover the
years. Contamination by microorganismsposes not only a health
hazard but can cause changesin the shampoo, such as malodor, tur-
bidity, and viscosity changes. On the other hand, it is also possibleto
find grosslycontaminated products without visible signsof change.
All shampoosmust be preservednot only for original freedom from
contamination but also must be protected against the possibility of
future contaminationwhen the packageis openedand reopenedfor use.
Many preservativesare available for use in shampoostoday, and their
incorporation is fairly simple; however, their effect on certain organisms
may either diminish in time or causethe generation of resistant strains.
Thus, evenafter many years of preservationby specificagentshave passed
safely, a periodic investigation should be undertaken to determine
whether the preservatives are still effective. Freedom from micro-
organismsnot only dependson adequate preservation but also upon
uncontaminated raw materials--particularly water. Vitally essential
are strict sanitary measures during manufacture. Constant diligence
is required, and development production shampoosshould be routinely
subjectedto bacteriologicalevaluation.
Foaming
To the consumer, foaming or lathering action is one of the most
important aspectsin determining the quality of a shampoo,and the
measurement of foam has received much attention in the literature. The
volume, foam structure, foam viscosity, and foam stability are also
546 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
tIt /
/"
' SOFT
/ VERY
HARD
WATER
(310ppm)
, ----- WRY U•D WAT•
/
/'
tests, this technique has been found to meet the following conditions:
It is fast, it is reproducible,and it reflectsthe performanceof the sham-
poo on the hair.
First, 10% dilutionsof the shampooin either soft water or water of
known hardnessare prepared. Increasing increments of the diluted
shampooare pipetted into the cylinder, diluted with water of required
hardnessto a fixed level, and then rotated for a precisenumber of times.
The foam volume is recorded, and the bubble structure and foam sta-
bility are examined. Three foam curvesare plotted for every shampoo:
A soft water dilution; a dilution with water of known hardness; and
a dilutionof waterwith knownhardness
plusthe additionof 1 ml of
olive oil. The foam determinationin the presenceof oil fairly accurately
PRACTICAL EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS 547
•oo
200
100
VOLb"t'IE0P 50LUT10•
Manageability
Perhapsone of the most abusedwordsusedin shampooadvertising
is "manageability" or "conditioning." Such claims are frequently
madefor shampoos,even though they do not exist. However,they are
meaningfulto the consumerand are, therefore,importantto the chem-
ist. Just what do thesewordsmean? A healthy, normalheadof hair
is one that is easily combedwhen either wet or dry. This is due to
natural secretionswhich coat the hair with a lubricating film, eliminate
PRACTICAL EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS 549
DESCRIPTION OF HAIR
Normal Oily
LEFT RIGHT
Shampoo Used
Dilution
Amount
1st 1st
Slew Av. Fast Foaming Slew Av. Fast
2nd 2nd
1st 1st
Little Av. Heavy Volume Little Av. Heavy
2nd 2nd
1st 1st
Thin Av. Thick Density Thin Av. Thick
2nd 2nd
0 1 2 3 4 5 Collapse 012345
0 1 223 4 5 Rinsability o • • • h 5
0 1 2 3 4 5 Feel-Wet o • • • • 5
O 1 2 3 4 5 Combability-Wet o I • • h 5
0 1 2 3 4 5 Feel-Dry o i • 3 • 5
O ! 2 3 4 5 Combability-Dry o I • 3 4 5
0 1 2 3 h 5 Body
0 1 2 3 4 5 Sheen 0 1 2 34 5
Other Comments
Date
staticcharges,
and impart glossor sheen. Many shampoos
will com-
pletely strip the hair of sebumand other natural secretions,with the
resultthat the wet hair snarlsor tanglesand is difficultto comb. The
dry hair is oftenlustreless
and alsodifficultto comb. A strongstatic
chargeresultsin "fly-away"or hair difficultto holdin place.
There are two solutionsto this problem. One is to formulate a
shampoowith reduceddetergency. The shampoowill removesurface
soil on the hair and most--but not all---of the sebumcoating. The
amountof naturaloilsremainingonthe hair is sufficient
to impart some
550 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
CONCLUDING COMMENTS
such hazards are well known, and Inethods to detect them are in wide-
spread use.
Detergency has not been listed as an important consideration for
routine evaluation. Although excellent methods have been reported
for the measurementof detergency (8, 9), some cosmeticchemistsare
of the opinion that a shampooshouldnot be so powerful a detergentas
to strip all natural secretionsfrom the hair and scalp. Modern sham-
poosare basedon surface-activeagentsthat performthis task adequately
for all practical purposes. The latitude for degree of detergencyis
fairly wide. When oneconsiders that mostheadsof hair are shampooed
with two applications of shampoo, the factor of detergencybecomes
relatively unimportant.
(ReceivedNovember24, 1965)
REFERENCES
(1) Bryce, D. M., and Smart, R., J. Soc. CosmeticChemists,16,187 (1965).
(2) Schwartz, A.M., Perry, J. W., and Berch, J., SurJkceActiveAgentsand DetergentsII
(1958), intersciencePublishers,Inc., N.Y. (1958).
(3) Myddleton, Wm. W., J. Soc. CosmeticChemists,4, 150 (1953).
(4) Bromley, J. M., Ibid., 15,631 (1964).
(5) New, G. E., Proceedings of theSecondCongress of theInternationalFederationof Societies
of CosmeticChemists,London, 1962. Edited by A. W. Middleton, The Macmillan Com-
pany, New York (1963).
(6) Mills, C. M., Ester, V. C., and Henkin, H., J. Soc.Cosmetic
Chemists,7, 466 (1956).
(7) Barber, R. G., and Posner, A.M., Ibid., 10, 236 (1959).
(8) Barnett, G., and Powers, D. H., Ibid., 2,219 (1951).
(9) Ervin, J. C., Ibid., 3, 81 (1952).
(10) Goldemberg, R. L., Ibid., 10, 291 (1959).