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The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy
and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Central America on
a Budget, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or
inconvenience sustained by any traveler as a result of information or advice
contained in the guide.
 The Rough Guide to

Central
America on a Budget

this edition written and researched by

Jamey Bergman, Flo Chick, Sarah Cummins, Kiki Deere,
Amber Dobrzensky, Donald Eastwood, Ingrid Gustafson, Neil McQuillan,
Charlotte Melville, Alex Trillo

LONDON • DELHI
www.roughguides.com
 Contents

Colour section 1 Guide 55

Introduction................................ 6 Belize........................................ 55
When to go................................. 8 Guatemala.............................. 117
Ideas......................................... 10 El Salvador............................. 243
Honduras................................ 323
Itineraries 17 Nicaragua............................... 405
Costa Rica.............................. 483
Panama.................................. 585
Basics 25
Language 673
Getting there............................. 27
Getting around.......................... 32 English.................................... 674
Accommodation....................... 35 Spanish................................... 674
Culture and etiquette................ 37 Words and phrases................. 676
Work and study......................... 39 Menu reader........................... 680
Health....................................... 41 Glossary................................. 683
Travel essentials....................... 45
Travel store 687

Small print & Index 691

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 Introduction to

Central America
Serving as both a link and a barrier between oceans and
continents, Central America’s small area belies an astounding
diversity of culture, wildlife, history and terrain. Travellers
here have access to a perfectly-sized package tour that’s unique
for every visitor. One day’s itinerary could have you on a water-
taxi ride to a surf break, an afternoon trek through pristine jungle
and a night out clubbing. The next day, you could be whitewater
rafting on world-class rapids, taking a spa in geothermal pools,
and then cosying up for a pleasantly cool dinner under the
highland stars.

C
entral America falls from Mexi-
co’s southern edges in a tapering
southeasterly slide from Belize
and Guatemala to Panama. From
its widest point on the Honduran/Nicara-
guan border, the isthmus is squeezed until
a mere 40 miles of land keeps the Atlan-
tic and Pacific Oceans at bay. Crammed
onto the land bridge, coral-fringed beaches
give way to jungle that, in turn, yields
to shrouded volcanic highlands. Modern
cities jut skyward metres from where the
cobbled streets of Maya ruins still linger.
Wealth and poverty, ancient religion and a colonial legacy mingle together
to make a fascinating mix for veteran and uninitiated travellers alike.
With its proximity to North America, there is no question that a recipro-
cal exchange of people and ideas has had an impact on both sides of the
Rio Grande. Much of the isthmus has certainly adopted the consumption
habits of its North American neighbours: shopping malls, fast-food out-
lets and multiplex cinemas are de rigeur for many citizens here. However,
the majority of this commercialization is restricted to the region’s main
metropolitan centres, and it is easy to find authenticity in culture, custom
or cuisine no matter where you go.

 introduction
Chicken Buses
One authentic piece of Latin American culture that you’ll soon become
familiar with is the “Chicken Bus”. Called “camionetas”, “collectivos” or
simply “buses” (pronounced “boo-ses”) in Spanish, these contraptions
are colourfully repainted and repurposed US school buses. In pastel or
primary colours, with decorations both religous and profane dangling and
jangling from every corner and destinations hand-lettered on the front
windscreen, travelling by chicken bus is an economical and unforgettable
experience. Passengers, goods and livestock jostle along bumpy roads,
embarking and departing with great frequency in a boistrous and generally
well-timed dance of old tires, children, overstuffed luggage and boxes of
peeping chicks (the buses namesake). Though Guatemala is particularly
known for its chicken buses, versions of this mode of transportation can
be found virtually anywhere in Latin America.

The North American economy has also had an effect on overall regional
prices, and depending on which country you’re travelling in, the daily
cost of living can be higher than you might expect. Despite this, Central
America is a premiere destination for budget travel: a growing tourist
infrastructure combined with a spectacular diversity of natural and cul-
tural landscapes make it a budget traveller’s dream. This guide is packed
with information tailored to inspire travellers on a shoestring. From our
budget-friendly Author’s Picks to suggestions for where to splurge and
treat yourself, we will help you to find the very best Central America has
to offer.

 Whether your tastes are expensive
introduction

or thrifty, our itineraries section

(see p.17) gives a selection of the
greatest journeys across the region.
In Belize, you can dive the longest
barrier reef in the Americas or
spend a few nights on the lookout
for big cats in the world’s only
Jaguar reserve. Discover Maya
ruins struggling to free themselves
from the ever encroaching bonds
of the jungle in Belize, Guatemala,
El Salvador and Honduras. For a
glimpse of the area’s colonial his-
tory and architecture, Antigua in
Guatemala and Granada in Nica-
ragua are top destinations. The
Ecotourism
cloudforests of Honduras and
Ecotourism is widespread in all Costa Rica, crater lakes in Guate-
its forms in Central America. But, mala, and geothermal hot springs
whether you’re zip-lining down a
in Panama are sights unique
jungled hillside in the cloudforest,
birdwatching in a national park, to the highlands. On the coast,
or volunteering to protect an Costa Rica and Panama are both
endangered species of sea turtle, widely known as top international
try to be sure that what you’re surfing scenes, but inland, both
doing truly is environmentally also offer world-class whitewater
ethical. While imitators rafting experiences.
misrepresenting themselves as
environmentally friendly operators
are common, Central America
is widely recognized to be at
the cutting edge of ecotourism. When to go
Tourists are encouraged to travel

F
responsibly with the intent of rom its position along a
experiencing nature while engaging major fault line, a back-
in environmental conservation and
bone of volcanic terrain
seeking to improve the well-being
of the local community. Belize rises and runs the length
and Costa Rica in particular have of the region’s seven countries.
paved the way with conservation Thick jungles adress coral reefs
strategies that support sustainable across golden slivers of shore-
tourism. line. The sub-tropical climate of
Central America overflows with


verdant landscapes, nourished by the

Todos Santos cuchumatÁN, Guatemala

introduction
semi-annual rhythms of the wet and
dry seasons.
Peak tourist times occur during the
dry season – or “summer” (verano)
– that runs from November to April.
The rainy season, often called “winter”
(invierno), lasts from May until Octo-
ber. The different seasons are more
distinctly felt on the Pacific side of the
isthmus than they are on the Carib-
bean, and the major determining fac-
tor of climate here is altitude. Coming
from sea level or the lowland plains to
the interior highlands can grant wel-
come relief from high heat and humid-
ity. Average temperatures here are 15 to 20 degrees cooler than in low-lying
areas, where humidity levels can be uncomfortable and temperatures
hover in the nineties for much of the year.
Coming to Central America to escape the dreary winter days of more
temperate climate zones is always a welcome escape, but great deals can
be found during the wet season when tourism lulls. Extra care should be
taken when making preparations this time of year, as road conditions can
deteriorate significantly with heavy rains, making travel more difficult.
However, rain showers are short-lived afternoon downpours, more often
than not, and there’s a good chance that changes in the weather will hardly
interfere with your trip.
mural in JuayÚa, el salvador


 Ideas Festivals
and events

Todos
Santos
Cuchumatán,
Guatemala
A massive
stampede and
inebriated riders
characterize this
outrageous all-
day horse race.
See p.189

Carnaval,
Panama
City Four
days of raucous
and vibrant
celebrations.
See p.597

10
Garífuna Settlement Day, Belize Enthusiastic celebrations to
mark the arrival of the Garífuna people in Belize. See p.64

ideas
Day of the Dead,
Santiago Sacatepéquez,
Guatemala Massive, beautiful
kites are flown in the cemetery to
commemorate the dead. See p.152

Semana Santa,
Antigua, Guatemala
Spectacular street processions to
mark Holy Week. See p.143

11
 Ideas History
and culture
Copán, Honduras
Magnificent Maya site displaying
impressive craftsmanship. See p.361

Kuna culture, Kuna

Yala, Panama Experience the
fascinating island life of the San Blas
Archipelago. See p.637

War
memorial,
Mozote, El
Salvador
A moving
monument to
the country’s
worst wartime
massacre.
See p.294

12
Tikal, Guatemala Five awe-inspiring pyramids tower above the rainforest.
See p.234

ideas
Cowboy culture,
Guanacaste, Costa Rica
A distinct region known for its
sabanero (cowboy) culture.
See p.564

Colonial
architecture, León,
Nicaragua The energetic old
capital is home to some beautiful
colonial buildings. See p.429
 Ideas Outdoor
activities
Volcano
hopping, Costa
Rica Activities
abound in this
spectacular volcanic
landscape. See p.491

Rafting,
Panama
Exhilarating
white-water
trips on the
Chiriquí River.
See p.661

Hiking,
Nicaragua
The forested
mountains
surrounding
Matagalpa
provide
fantastic hiking
opportunities.
See p.441

14
 Jaguar
spotting, Belize
Explore the stunning Belizean
rainforest in search of these

ideas
beautiful creatures. See p.107

Diving in the
Bay Islands, Honduras
Abundant marine life, clear waters and
a stunning coral reef. See p.392

Surfing, El Savador The Pacific coast boasts some of

Central America’s best surfing beaches. See p.251
Itineraries
 Itineraries

Indigenous Cultures................................................................... 19
Along CA-1................................................................................ 20
The Caribbean coast.................................................................. 21
Maya ruins................................................................................. 22
Wildlife....................................................................................... 22
The Grand Tour.......................................................................... 23
Central America itineraries

itineraries
You can’t expect to fit everything Central America has to offer
into one trip and we don’t suggest you try. On the following
pages are a selection of itineraries that guide you through the
different countries, picking out a few of the best places and
major attractions along the way. Enjoy the region’s startling
natural beauty, from the cloudforests of Costa Rica to the sand-
fringed islands of Panama’s San Blas archipelago; explore the
unique indigenous culture of the Maya; and discover remote
beaches and world-class diving on the Caribbean coast.
Indigenous Cultures spectacular hikes into the surrounding
hills. See p.174
1 HOPKINS, BELIZE Stretching 3 TODOS SANTOS CUCHUMATÁN,
along a bay, this small Garífuna village GUATEMALA The unique culture of the
comes alive with the enthusiastic indigenous Maya, combined with the
celebrations of Settlement Day, and is a beautiful alpine scenery, makes this a
great place to sample the local cuisine. favourite with travellers – especially for the
See p.106 experience of the Día de Todos Santos.
2 IXIL TRIANGLE, GUATEMALA See p.189
Though remote, the three towns of the Ixil 4 LA ESPERANZA, HONDURAS
triangle are worth the effort for a glimpse Best visited for its colourful weekend
of the traditional Ixil way of life, and for market, when Lenca farmers from the

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 surrounding villages come into town. In along ca-1
nearby San Juan Intibucá you can watch
traditional handicrafts being made. From Guatemala to Panama, Central
itineraries

See p.352 America Highway 1 (part of the Pan-

American Highway) runs for over a
5 LA MOSQUITIA, HONDURAS
thousand kilometres past beaches, cities
Indulge your spirit of adventure by getting and jungles. The following sites are all en
right off the beaten track to explore the – or just off – route.
indigenous villages of the Caribbean
1 Totonicapán, Guatemala
Coast in this southeastern corner of the
Quiet, handsome Guatemalan town
country. See p.389
distinguished by its traditional weaving,
6 MASAYA, NICARAGUA The centre with twice-weekly markets, artisan tours
of Nicaragua’s artensania production, the and classes. See p.184
attractive town of Masaya is home to 2 San Salvador, El Salvador
two craft markets and is a great place to
El Salvador’s buzzing capital is
pick up hammocks, traditional occasionally intimidating and rarely
clothing and other handicrafts. peaceful. But with its slowly smartening
See p.443 Centro Histórico, surprisingly green
7 KUNA YALA, PANAMA outskirts and politicized museums, it
Encompassing the tropical islands of the repays a visit. See p.256
San Blas archipelago, the autonomous 3 San Vicente, El Salvador
territory of the Kula people offers a Climb El Salvador’s second highest
unique opportunity to learn about volcano, eye the famous clock tower and
community life, while enjoying the relish the stunning drive to this relaxed
beautiful beaches. See p.637 city. See p.286

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4 Choluteca, Honduras fishing village has Belize’s best beaches,
Steamy, substantial city containing one inexpensive accommodation and a
of Honduras’ finest old colonial quarters growing arts scene. See p.108

itineraries
– the tranquil park and imposing cathedral 2 Lívingston, Guatemala Carib
are among the highlights. See p.345 cuisine, punta rock and reggae make
5 Granada, Nicaragua Take a Lívingston a great place to party and an
detour off CA-1 for Granada, home to intriguing contrast to Guatemala’s latino
some of Central America’s most inspiring interior. See p.203
architecture. There are attractions aplenty, 3 Bay Islands, Honduras
but an idle wander through its centre is, This 125-kilometre chain of islands off
perhaps, most rewarding. See p.447 Honduras’s Caribbean coast is a perfect
6 Liberia, Costa Rica This beautiful destination for world-class (and affordable)
“White City” is home to a number of diving, sailing and fishing. See p.392
festivals and the sleepy colonial Calle Real 4 Río Plátano Biosphere
district. See p.564 Reserve, Honduras This World
7 Panama City, Panama Both Heritage Centre on the remote Mosquito
a base for visiting the nearby wildlife Coast preserves one of the finest
and famous canal and a sparkling, remaining stretches of Central American
cosmopolitan city, this is one of the rainforest. See p.391
continent’s must-visits. See p.598 5 The Corn Islands,
Nicaragua Once a haven for pirates,
the caribbean coast these unspoilt islands offer swaying palm
trees, white-sand beaches and warm
1 Placencia, Belize Away from clear water – a perfect place to recharge.
the tourist hustle of the north, this relaxed See p.475

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 6 Tortuguero National Park, 3 El Mirador, Guatemala
Costa Rica While turtle-watching is Reaching it requires time and stamina
the big draw at this coastal national park, – it’s only accessible by foot and mule,
itineraries

a trip along the Tortuguero Canal in a and most opt for a five-day trip from
dugout canoe comes a close second. Flores, including up to eight hours’
See p.521 jungle trekking a day – but the reward is
7 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, spectacular. Remote and mysterious El
Mirador is a vast preclassical Mayan city
Costa Rica Perhaps the liveliest
much of it still enveloped in jungle.
backpacker town in Central America,
See p.239
Puerto Viejo also boasts one of the best
surf breaks on the Caribbean coast. 4 Cancuén, Guatemala An
See p.528 affluent Mayan trading town, and one of
8 Bocas del Toro the attractions of the Puerta al Mundo
Maya organization, which supports
Archipelago, Panama Described
community-run, sustainable tourism.
as “the Galapagos of the twenty-first
Spend a couple of days on the road from
century”, this once-isolated region is
Flores to Cóban visiting their various
growing in popularity as an ecotourism
sights. See p.224
destination. See p.662
5 Tazumal, El Salvador Smaller
9 San Blas Archipelago,
than its Guatemalan counterparts, but with
Panama Part of the autonomous Kuna
a certain charm, the site features both
region, these idyllic offshore islands offer
Maya and Pipil constructions. See p.315
a mix of beach holiday and the chance to
sample a unique culture. See p.637 6 Copán, Honduras One of the
country’s main tourist destinations, Copán
Maya ruins is smaller than Tikal but features exquisite
carvings and sculpture, both throughout
1 Lamanai, Belize Belize’s largest the site and in its impressive museum.
Maya site, well restored and with an See p.361
excellent museum, is best reached by
boat tour from Orange Walk. See p.87 wildlife
2 Tikal, Guatemala From Belize
1 BELIZE’S BARRIER REEF Running
you can cross the border at Melchor de
the entire length of Belize’s coastline, this
Mencos and travel to Flores, a couple
immense network of coral and cayes –€the
of hours south of the superstar Mayan
second largest in the world –€is home to a
attraction at Tikal. See p.234
dazzling array of marine life. See p.72
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the few places on earth where you can go experts –€Corovado harbours everything
diving with whale sharks. See p.392 from tapirs to tayras; you’ll most likely
stumble across them on one of the park’s
5 LAGO DE YOJOA, Honduras
mammoth jungle treks. See p.582
Take an early morning paddle on
this picturesque lake, surrounded by 9 ISLA BARRO COLORADO,
mountains and home to over four hundred Panama Sitting plum in the middle
species of birds. See p.349 of the Panama Canal, Barro Colorado
is a living laboratory, six square
6 SOLENTInaME ARCHIPELAGO,
miles of biodiversity. Hike through its
Nicaragua Isolated scattering of
rainforest with specialist guides from the
islands, marooned in the middle of mighty
Smithsonian Institute. See p.620
Lago Nicaragua. Spot sloths, howler
monkeys, parrots and macaws. See p.467
The grand tour
7 PARQUE NACIONAL
TORTUGUERO, Costa Rica The 1 Belizean cayes & atolls
fantastic journey here – drifting through Snorkel, scuba dive or fish off the
verdant jungle, past wooden houses on hundreds of cayes which form part of
stilts –€is only a sideshow to the main Belize’s spectacular Great Barrier Reef,
event: the desove, where hundreds of and don’t miss the Great Blue Hole, a
green, hawksbill and leatherback turtles collapsed cave. See p.72
haul themselves ashore each night to lay
2 Tikal, Guatemala Arguably the
their eggs. See p.521
most impressive Maya ruin in Central
8 PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO, America, this ancient city is dominated
Costa Rica The most biologically by five temples and surrounded by
diverse area in Central America – akin thousands of other structures, all
to the Amazon in the eyes of some surrounded by jungle. See p.234
23
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3 Guatemala Highlands With its teeming with monkeys as well as beaches

volcanoes, mountain ranges, lakes and and mountains to explore. See p.460
valleys, this is one of Guatemala’s most 8 Monteverde & Santa Elena,
beautiful areas. See p.166 Costa Rica These nature reserves are
4 Bay Islands, Honduras To known as cloudforests because of their
catch a glimpse of the elusive whale high altitude. Take a canopy tour to see
shark, head to this string of islands in lush vegetation and hundreds of wildlife
October or November – or simply spend species. See p.534
days sailing or fishing on a remote island. 9 Parque Nacional Corcovado,
See p.392 Costa Rica Most people come to the
5 San Salvador, El Salvador park in search of rare animals like ocelot
Nestled at the foot of a volcano, El and tapir, and there are also deserted
Salvador’s buzzing capital is a heady mix beaches, waterfalls and rain forests to
of galleries, museums and nightclubs. explore. See p.582
See p.256 G Bocas del Toro
6 Granada, Nicaragua With its archipelago, Panama One of the
pastel colonial buildings, Granada is the most remote and beautiful provinces
most architecturally interesting town in in Panama, this diverse archipelago
Nicaragua, and makes an ideal base for boasts tropical rainforests, beaches and
exploring nearby lakes and volcanoes. mangroves. See p.662
See p.447 H San Blas Archipelago,
7 Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua Panama Strung out along the Caribbean
This magical island, formed by two coast, the vast majority of these islands
volcanoes, sits in the middle of a are uninhabited. Come here to get away
freshwater lake. There’s jungle rainforest from it all. See p.637
24
Basics
 Basics

Getting there.............................................................................. 27
Getting around........................................................................... 32
Accommodation........................................................................ 35
Culture and etiquette................................................................. 37
Work and study . ....................................................................... 39
Health......................................................................................... 41
Travel essentials......................................................................... 45
 Getting there

basics
While you can get to Central America overland from Mexico
or by sea from Colombia, your most likely point of entry to
Central America is through one of the region’s international

Getting there
airports. Of these, the most popular gateways are Guatemala
City, San José and Panama City.
Prices for flights to the region with estab- to a straightforward return. Alternatively,
lished carriers can vary hugely. For the round-the-world (RTW) itineraries can
best fares on scheduled flights, book well incorporate Central American destina-
in advance of travel, as airlines only have a tions if you travel via the US and onward
fixed number of seats at their lowest prices. to Auckland, Sydney, etc. British Airways/
Fully check conditions before making a Qantas and United/Air New Zealand Star
booking, however, as these cheap fares are Alliance fares from London start at around
almost always heavily restricted; the one £1000 (plus a probable £500 in taxes), and
provision nearly all carriers attach to tickets allow multiple stops in several continents
is the required duration of trip – generally within a certain mileage.
the best prices allow a maximum stay of
one to three months, with prices rising for from the US and
a six-month duration, and again for a year’s
validity. It is not always cheapest to book
Canada
direct with the airline; some travel agents Several US carriers operate direct flights to
(see p.31) can negotiate discounted fares, in all Central American capitals. The main US
particular for students or those under 26. It hubs, offering good connections with other
may be worth considering a one-way ticket North American cities, are Houston (Conti-
if you are planning a long trip (although nental Airlines), Miami, Dallas (American and
you may have difficulties passing through United Airlines) and Atlanta (Delta), but there
immigration without an onward ticket – see are also direct routes from New York and Los
“Entry requirements”, p.48). Angeles to Guatemala City, San Salvador,
Another option for bargain hunters is to San José and Panama City. Flights are
look into routes operated by charter airlines frequent and can take as little as two hours
to package holiday destinations. For the (Miami to Belize City, for example). Prices
most part these are available from the US to vary – advance purchase fares start from as
Belize, Costa Rica and Panama, although it little as US$130 (plus taxes), though a more
is also possible to reach Cancún in Mexico’s realistic estimate would be in the region of
Yucatán Peninsula from the UK. These US$300–500. Taxes should be estimated at
charter flights allow limited flexibility, usually a minimum of US$100.
for a fixed period of one or two weeks, but From Canada you can fly direct from
can be picked up last minute at very reason- Toronto to San José (5hr 15min) with Air
able prices. Canada, and also to San José via San
If planning a substantial amount of Salvador, with Lineas Aereas Costarricenses
overland travel in Central America consider (LACSA). Alternatively, there are many
purchasing an open-jaw ticket (for connections to all Central American capitals
example, arriving in Guatemala City and through the US. For direct flights from
returning from Panama City). Prices for Toronto fares start at CAN$610, plus taxes
open-jaw tickets are usually comparable of approximately CAN$200.

27
 Fly less – stay longer! Travel and climate change
Climate change is the single biggest issue facing our planet. It is caused by a
build-up in the atmosphere of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases, which
are emitted by many sources – including planes. Already, flights account for around
three to four percent of human-induced global warming: that figure may sound
basics

small, but it is rising year on year and threatens to counteract the progress made by
reducing greenhouse emissions in other areas.
Rough Guides regard travel, overall, as a global benefit, and feel strongly that the
advantages to developing economies are important, as are the opportunities for
Getting there

greater contact and awareness among peoples. But we all have a responsibility to
limit our personal “carbon footprint”. That means giving thought to how often we fly
and what we can do to redress the harm that our trips create.
Flying and climate change
Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2, but planes are
particularly bad offenders, releasing large volumes of greenhouse gases at altitudes
where their impact is far more harmful. Flying also allows us to travel much further
than we would contemplate doing by road or rail, so the emissions attributable to
each passenger become truly shocking. For example, one person taking a return
flight between Europe and California produces the equivalent impact of 2.5 tonnes
of CO2 – similar to the yearly output of the average UK car.
Less harmful planes may evolve but it will be decades before they replace the
current fleet – which could be too late for avoiding climate chaos. In the meantime,
there are limited options for concerned travellers: to reduce the amount we travel
by air (take fewer trips, stay longer!), to avoid night flights (when plane contrails trap
heat from Earth but can’t reflect sunlight back to space), and to make the trips we
do take “climate neutral” via a carbon-offset scheme.
Carbon-offset schemes
Offset schemes run by W www.climatecare.org, Wwww.carbonneutral.com and
others allow you to “neutralize” the greenhouse gases that you are responsible for
releasing. Their websites have simple calculators that let you work out the impact
of any flight. Once that’s done, you can pay to fund projects that will reduce future
carbon emissions by an equivalent amount (such as the distribution of low-energy
light bulbs and cooking stoves in developing countries). Please take the time to visit
our website and make your trip climate neutral.
Wwww.roughguides.com/climatechange

from the UK and Iberia, Air Comet or Air Europa (via Madrid)
and KLM or Martinair (via Amsterdam). As
Ireland clearing US immigration and customs can
There are no direct flights from the UK or be a lengthy process, these European
Ireland to Central America. The majority flights can frequently be faster. Alternatively
of routes available are offered by the – and less expensively – a wide network of
US carriers (namely, American, United, carriers flies from Europe direct to Mexico,
Continental and Delta), all of which involve from where you can travel to Central
connections in the States. Onward flights America (see opposite).
to Central America may be operated by Journey times from the UK and Ireland
regional airlines such as Copa, TACA and vary according to connection times, but
Lineas Aereas Costarricanes (LACSA). it is possible to get door-to-door in a day.
A few European airlines also offer flights Published fares from London to Central
through their hub cities to Guatemala City, American capitals start at around £350 (plus
San José or Panama City – these include taxes of at least £150).

28
from Australia, pesos at the border with moneychangers, as
an opportunity may not arise later. Be sure
New Zealand and to do your sums prior to agreeing to a trans-
South Africa action and check what you’re given before
There are no direct flights from Australasia handing over your cash.
or South Africa to Central America, but it’s It’s possible, too, to fly from many

basics
easy enough to connect with flights in the of Mexico’s airports onward to Central
US or Europe. From Australia and New America’s main cities with airlines such
Zealand, the quickest route is through as TACA and Copa; tickets start around
Los Angeles and then Dallas or Houston US$200.

Getting there
(approximately 20hr; AUS$2750/NZ$3300).
From Johannesburg, the options include Regional bus contacts
Iberia via Madrid (from ZAR12,000) and Delta
via Dakar and Atlanta (from ZAR14,700). Tica Bus Wwww.ticabus.com. Departs from
Connections are not great and the journey Tapachula (Mexico) for Guatemala City and beyond.
will take at least 24 hours. Transportes Galgos Wtransgalgosinter.com.gt.
Departs Tapachula (Mexico) for Quetzaltenango and
Guatemala City.
Round-the-world (RTW)
flights From South America
Round-the-world flight tickets connect There is currently no overland passage
Sydney, Perth, Auckland and Johannesburg between Central and South America due to
to Mexico City, Guatemala City, San José lack of infrastructure and a guerrilla presence
and Panama City, usually via Los Angeles in the Darién jungle bordering Colombia and
or London using American Airlines or code- Panama. Known as the “Darién Gap”, this
share partners. It is also possible to reach break in the Interamericana Highway means
Australasia from both Santiago (Chile) and
Buenos Aires (Argentina) as part of the same
RTW tickets with BA/Qantas’s Oneworld.

from Mexico
It is fairly straightforward to travel overland by
bus from Mexico to Guatemala and Mexico
to Belize. Several companies offer services
with varying degrees of comfort (worth taking
into consideration, given the length of most
trips – Palenque to Flores is ten hours, Tulum
to Belize City is nine). Popular routes include:
Cancún/Tulum (via Chetumal/Corozal) to
Belize City; Palenque (via Frontera Corozal/
Bethel) to Flores, Guatemala; San Cristóbal
de las Casas (via Ciudad Cuauhtémoc/La
Mesilla) to Huehuetenango; and the Mexican
Pacific coast (via Ciudad Hidalgo/Ciudad
Tecún Umán) to Quetzaltenango.
Unfortunately, one annoyance experienced
by many travellers (particularly crossing into
Guatemala) is the demand for unofficial “fees”
at immigration; it’s often easier to go with
local services than one of the long-distance
carriers – travelling with a busload of gringos
can prove expensive. It is worth changing
29
 that inter-continental travellers will need to be hanging around at your departure point
move on either by air or by sea. for some time. Expect to pay US$250–300
Unless part of an airpass or RTW ticket, for passage, full board and administration
flights from South to Central America are of documents at migración. Many boats
typically cheaper bought in the country of incorporate the voyage with a visit to
departure (agents there will have access Panama’s enchanting San Blas Archipelago
basics

to discounted fares). However, as always, (see p.637), making the journey an inclusive
booking at the last minute can mean settling tour and well worth any extra paid above
for the highest prices, so ideally you should the cheapest flight price. See the Panama
plan at least a few weeks in advance. One- chapter for more information.
Getting there

way fares from Quito/Bogota to Panama

are in the region of US$500 (considerably Airlines, agents and
cheaper with a student card).
operators
There’s a steady flow of sea traffic
between Panama and Colombia via the
Caribbean, and private sailboats often offer Online booking
passage as crew for the two- or three-day
journey between Colón and Cartagena. Wwww.expedia.co.uk (in UK), Wwww
.expedia.com (in US), W www.expedia.ca
Boats do not run to regular schedules,
(in Canada)
but rather at the whim of the captain and
W www.lastminute.com (in UK)
depending on demand. Latest departures
Wwww.opodo.co.uk (in UK)
are posted on notice boards in Cartagena, Wwww.orbitz.com (in US)
Colón and Panama City hostels and budget Wwww.travelocity.co.uk (in UK), Wwww
hotels. Sailing vessels vary greatly in size .travelocity.com (in US), W www.travelocity
and facilities, so it’s worth asking other .ca (in Canada)
travellers for recommendations. It should be Wwww.travelonline.co.za (in South Africa)
noted that arranging onward transportation W www.zuji.com.au (in Australia), Wwww
by boat might take several days, so plan to .zuji.co.nz (in New Zealand)

30
 Qantas Airways US & Canada T 1-800/227-
Airlines 4500, UK T0845/774 7767, Republic of Ireland
T01/407 3278, Australia T13 13 13, New Zealand
Aeromexico US T 1-800/237-6639, Wwww
T0800/808 767 or 09/357 8900, South Africa
.aeromexico.com.
T11/441 8550; Wwww.qantas.com.
Air Canada US & Canada T1-888/247-2262, UK
South African Airways South Africa T11/978
T 0871/220 1111, Republic of Ireland T01/679

basics
1111, US & Canada T1-800/722-9675, UK
3958, Australia T1300/655 767, New Zealand
T0870/747 1111, Australia T1800/221 699, New
T 0508/747 767; Wwww.aircanada.com.
Zealand T09/977 2237; Wwww.flysaa.com.
Air Comet UK T 0808 2345186 W www
Grupo TACA US T1-800/400-TACA, Canada
.aircomet.com
T1-800/722-TACA, UK T0870/2410 340,

Getting there
Air Europa US T1-800/238-7672, UK
Australia T02/8248 0020; Wwww.taca.com.
T 0870/777 7709; Wwww.aireuropa.com.
United Airlines US T1-800/UNITED-1, UK
Air New Zealand New Zealand T0800/737000,
T0845/844 4777, Australia T13 17 77; Wwww
Australia T 0800/132 476, UK T0800/028 4149,
.united.com.
US T 1800-262/1234, Canada T 1800-663/5494;
W www.airnz.co.nz.
American Airlines US T1-800/433-7300, UK Agents and operators
T 0845/7789 789, Republic of Ireland T01/602
0550, Australia T1800/673 486, New Zealand ebookers UK T 0800/082 3000, Wwww.ebookers
T 0800/445 442;Wwww.aa.com. .com; Republic of Ireland T01/488 3507, Wwww
British Airways US & Canada T1-800/AIR-WAYS, .ebookers.ie. Low fares on an extensive selection of
UK T 0870/850 9850, New Zealand T09/966 scheduled flights and package deals.
9777, South Africa T114/418 600; Wwww Journey Latin America UK T 020/8622 8469,
.ba.com. W www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk. Long estab-
Continental Airlines US & Canada T1-800/523- lished UK-based tour operator offering tailormade
3273, UK T 0845/607 6760, Republic of Ireland itineraries as well as sound advice on travel in
T 1890/925 252, Australia T02/9244 2242, New the region.
Zealand T09/308 3350, International T 1800/231 North South Travel UK T 01245/608 291,
0856; Wwww.continental.com. W www.northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly,
Copa Airlines US T 1-800/FLY-COPA, Wwww competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares
.copaair.com. worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in
Delta US & Canada T 1-800/221-1212, UK the developing world, especially the promotion of
T 0845/600 0950, Republic of Ireland T1850/882 sustainable tourism.
031 or 01/407 3165, Australia T1300/302 849, South American Experience UK T 0845/277
New Zealand T09/9772232; Wwww.delta.com. 3366, W southamericanexperience.co.uk. Tour
Iberia US T 1-800/772-4642, UK T0870/609 operator with some coverage and general
0500, Republic of Ireland T 0818/462 000, South information for Central America.
Africa T011/884 5909; Wwww.iberia.com. STA Travel US T1-800/781-4040, UK
KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) US & Canada T0871/230 0040, Australia T134 STA, New
T 1-800/225-2525, UK T0870/507 4074, Zealand T0800/474 400, South Africa T 0861/781
Republic of Ireland T1850/747 400, Australia 781; Wwww.statravel.com. Worldwide specialists in
T 1300/392 192, New Zealand T09/921 6040, independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance,
South Africa T11/961 6727; Wwww.klm.com. car rental, rail passes, and more. Good discounts for
Martinair US T 1-800/627-8462, Canada students and under-26s.
T 1-416/364-3672; Wwww.martinair.com Trailfinders UK T 0845/058 5858, Republic of
Mexicana US T1-800/531-7921, Canada T1- Ireland T 01/677 7888, Australia T 1300/780
866/281-3049, UK T020/8492 0000, Australia 212; W www.trailfinders.com. One of the best-
T03/9699 9355, New Zealand T09/9772 213, informed and most efficient agents for independent
South Africa T11/781 2111; Wwww.mexicana.com. travellers.

31
 Getting around
basics

If you’re not in a hurry and are willing to travel on public

transport, you can get around most of Central America on
US$1 an hour (probably slightly more in Belize, Costa Rica and
G etti n g ar o u nd

Panama). While public transport systems are sometimes slow

– and almost always crowded and sweaty – they can often also
be extremely efficient: in most places you will rarely have to
wait long for onward transportation, making it ideal territory
for exploration. On major roads especially, buses run with high
frequency and can be a great insight into the day-to-day life of
the country. Flights are relatively expensive but shuttle long-
distance between major cites and can help access remote
areas, such as the region’s many wonderful islands. All things
considered, getting around Central America can be fun and
easy, despite the inevitable complications along the way.
The following is a general guide to Central to get off or people flag down passing
American transport. More specific informa- services. Sometimes it can seem like you’re
tion on each country’s infrastructure can stopping every thirty metres, but these
be found in the “Getting around” section of buses are handy for impromptu itineraries
each country’s introductory chapter. and each country’s extensive network of
routes allows you to get off the beaten path
By bus with relative ease. In most places chicken
buses tend to run on demand rather than
Travelling by bus in Central America is by
to schedules, departing when full, though
far the most convenient and comprehensive
in Costa Rica and Panama schedules are
way to get around the region. The cost
a bit more regular – in those countries it is
of travel depends mainly on the quality of
wise to check at bus terminals in advance
the transport – you can look forward to
of travel for current timetable information.
paying anywhere from approximately US$1 Tickets are usually bought onboard, once
per hour for one of the region’s infamous the journey is underway, either from the
“chicken buses” (see box, p.123) to US$3 conductor or from his assistant. It is always
for a guaranteed seat on a more comfortable worth checking the price before boarding
“Pullman”-style coach. to avoid rip-offs, which are not unknown.
Chicken buses generally serve as Luggage usually goes on the roof; always
second-class, or local, services. They stop keep valuables on your person and an eye
on demand, wherever passengers request on your stuff as best you can, as theft on

navigating central american cities

The majority of Central American cities are laid out on a grid system, making
navigation fairly straightforward: usually numbered calles (streets) run east–west
and numbered avenidas (avenues) run north-south, with a parque or plaza as
the point zero. For more information on specific city addresses, see the relevant
chapter in the main guide.

32
 basics
G etti n g ar o u n d
buses is unfortunately all too common By air
– interior overheard luggage racks are
Although Central America has a good
particularly risky.
international flight network, connecting
JLA.indd 1 Pullman buses generally cover long- 17/3/08 17:16:20
the region’s key points of interest with
distance routes and operate to a schedule,
its capital cities, unless you are severely
making much quicker progress and so
pushed for time few flights are worth the
remaining economical when you wish to
money you will have to spend on them,
cover ground more rapidly. Seats should
since distances are usually short and acces-
be reserved at the appropriate ticket office
sible by bus and prices aren’t particularly
in advance. Several bus companies run
cheap (eg, Guatemala City–San José is
services from one country to another as well
US$200/US$400 student/standard fare).
as within individual countries (see below for
Regional carriers Grupo TACA and Copa
some listings).
both offer youth fares; to be eligible you
Travelling by bus at night, regardless of
will need to have an ISIC card (see p.46). If
service type, is not recommended due to
you do plan to do a bit of flying, airpasses
the high rate of highway robbery and traffic
(allowing short hops within Central America,
accidents.
as well as routes to Mexico, the US and
some South American destinations) can be
Regional bus contacts bought in conjunction with your international
ticket in your country of origin. However,
Hedman Alas Wwww.hedmanalas.com.
these usually force you to specify your route
Connecting major cities in Honduras to Guatemala
City and Antigua. in advance and rarely allow for trips to your
Tica Bus Wwww.ticabus.com/ingles. Routes span preferred destinations (most travellers are not
the region from Panama City through to Chiapas, necessarily interested in visiting the region’s
Mexico, covering most major cities. chaotic capital cities).
Transnica W www.transnica.com. Routes Of greater interest to budget travellers are
from Managua to San Salvador, San José and the domestic flights that connect isolated
Tegucigalpa. tourist destinations – such as Nicaragua’s
33
 Corn Islands, Panama’s Bocas del Toro licence and credit card and passport. Some
and Honduras’ Bay Islands, all of which are agencies do not rent to under-25s, although
more than a day’s travel by bus from their others may have an age limit of 21. Always
respective capital cities – to the region’s park securely, preferably in a parking lot
more populous areas. Internal flights can with attendant, especially in cities. There are
be reasonably priced, especially if bought in no breakdown services available, but petrol
basics

advance, although in general you will have to stations are plentiful; the price of fuel is
purchase them locally. slightly higher than in the US and consider-
ably cheaper than in Europe.
By boat
G etti n g ar o u nd

You’re likely to travel by boat at some point Taxis

if you spend any time in Central America – in
Travelling by taxi in Central America is
some places watercraft are the only way to
something of a gamble, but a necessary
get around, in others they can provide a
one: drivers are either some of the friend-
welcome break from the monotony of bumpy
liest, helpful folk you’ll encounter or some
bus rides. Vessels range from the canoe-like
of the biggest swindlers, but at night,
“lanchas” with outboard motor to chugging
especially in large cities, they provide
ferries to speedy catamarans. Watery
the only safe mode of transport. Always
journeys of note include: Placencia (Belize) settle on a price before getting in (even if
to Lívingston (Guatemala) and onward to there is a meter, try to get an estimate),
the Río Dulce area (see p.206); across clarifying that the price is for the journey,
Lago de Nicaragua to Isla de Ometepe regardless of the number of passengers or
(see p.460); down the Río San Juan to the amount of luggage; throughout the region
Caribbean (see p.456); and through the most journeys are a minimum of US$2. In
banana plantations around Changuiola to terms of safety, always use registered taxis
the Caribbean cayes of Bocas del Toro (we’ve indicated how to recognize these
(Panama; see p.662). Passage through the throughout the guide) and ask the staff at
world-famous Panama Canal costs vessels your accommodation for recommenda-
from US$170,000 cash – perhaps not quite tions and price estimates. It also pays to
feasible for the budget traveller. keep an eye on the map as your journey
progresses – a possible deterrent to drivers
By car quite literally taking you for a ride.
Considering the prevalence of public
transport and the relative expense of renting By bike
a car, hiring a vehicle is unlikely to have Despite the prevalence of bicycle use
much appeal. If, however, you want to reach among locals, bike rental is not widely
isolated spots, and can form a trusted group available in Central America. However, some
to share the costs and/or risks, renting a countries, like Belize, are seeing increased
car (or 4WD) does give you some flexibility. bicycle tourism, and a number of travel-
Prices for car hire vary throughout the region lers are also touring the region with their
(see individual chapters for details). Always own bikes. Notwithstanding the dangers of
familiarize yourself with the conditions of hire Central America’s anarchic road customs,
before signing a contract. Beware that in cycling in the region is facilitated by the
the event of an accident, insurance excess mostly flat terrain, relatively short distances
levels are usually huge. If you do decide between settlements and ease of trans-
to rent a vehicle you will need a full driving porting bicycles aboard buses.

34
 Accommodation

basics
Budget accommodation in Central America is plentiful, and
often of excellent quality. As anywhere, some of the region’s
places to stay are truly memorable for their warm atmosphere,

A cco m m o d ati o n
great facilities and stunning location. Others, however,
can promise cockroaches, poor sanitation and noisy neigh-
bours. Never be afraid to shop around for a place you are
comfortable with.
Hotels and mosquito nets and/or balcony. Double
rooms are often equivalent in price to two
guesthouses dorm beds (good news for couples and
The mainstays of travellers’ accommoda- something for friends to consider). Private
tion in Central America are hotels and single rooms, on the other hand, are often
guesthouses (and their regional equiva- only marginally discounted (if at all) from the
lents: posadas, pensiones, cabinas and standard price for a double.
hospedajes). A basic double room (around As a rule, you should ask to view rooms
US$10–15) will have a bed, a light and before agreeing to stay. Do not be afraid
probably a fan (ventilador). Most places offer to walk away and look at alternatives
the choice of private or shared bathroom; – this may even precipitate a drop in prices.
a private bath (baño privado) will cost a Booking ahead is generally not necessary
few dollars more than a shared one (baño (and often not possible). However, during
compartido). Hot water is a rarity unless holiday periods in busy tourist centres, plan
splurging on a swankier room; keep an eye on arriving early or calling in advance.
out for gas-fired hot water systems – the
standard (and decidedly dodgy) electrical Hostels
showerheads tend to produce tepid water Hostels, while not particularly widespread,
at best and can also deliver electric shocks. are increasingly common in Central America,
Some hotels will provide you with towels and often run by foreigners with a keen eye for
soap and most with toilet paper. By paying backpackers’ needs. These establishments
a few extra dollars you can also find rooms offer some of the most sociable and comfort-
including cable TV, fridge, air-conditioning, able lodgings in the region. A dorm bed

Accommodation price codes

Throughout the guide all accommodation is coded on a scale of 1 to 9 , which
is outlined below. For places with dorms the code indicates the cost of a bed,
for hotels and guesthouses the cheapest private single or double room and for
campsites the cost of a night’s stay per person. All codes represent high-season
prices; when a price range is indicated, it means that the establishment offers
a variety of services – as indicated in the listing. Note that many, but not all,
establishments in Central America quote prices per person rather than per room
– always check this.
1 up to US$5 4 US$16–25 7 US$46–60
2 US$6–10 5 US$26–35 8 US$61–80
3 US$11–15 6 US$36–45 9 over $81

35
36
 tours and activities. The lockers are a definite
Jungle lodges plus – theft does occur, so do not leave
valuables lying around; you might consider
Throughout Central America you will
find an array of rural jungle lodges travelling with your own padlock. Some
in some truly magical locations. hostels will even offer free board and lodging
And while many lodges charge if you want to stay put and work for a period

basics
fairly exorbitant prices, not all are (see “Work and study”, p.39, for more details).
beyond a budget traveller’s means. Hostelling International cards are little or no
If you have the opportunity, staying use in Central America.
at a lodge is usually well worth the

C u l tu r e an d eti q u ette
splurge and/or detour. However, Camping
as lodges are usually isolated, you
Organized campsites are a rarity in Central
will be captive to spending all your
America. However, some national parks
cash in one place. Lodge owners
are of course wise to this and lay on do allow camping and have limited facilities
all sorts of tempting treats to help such as drinking water, toilets and campfire
relieve you of your dinero. provisions. Expect to pay around US$3–5
per person to pitch a tent (more in Costa
Rica). Camping doesn’t hold much appeal
should cost around US$5–10, but in capital for locals, so don’t expect to find gear on
cities expect to pay at least double (more still sale or for rent – you will need to carry what
in San José). Most hostels have a few private you need. It is also possible to pay to hang
rooms as well as dormitories. a hammock (your own or hired) in some
The best hostels may provide kitchen areas. This may seem more appealing than
facilities, internet service, lockers, bar and an airless room, but the mosquitoes can be
restaurant areas, TV and movies, as well as fierce – make sure you have a net.

Culture and etiquette

Despite a pervasive media image portraying Latin America as
a scantily clad world of steamy salsa and sizzling hot spirit,
the reality is much more conservative. Throughout Central
America the church (both Catholic and Evangelical Protestant)
retains a powerful influence on everyday life. Information
about social customs specific to each country is found in the
relevant chapter.
Traditional family values are prevalent relationships are publicly frowned upon if not
throughout Central America: children are actively condemned; gay and lesbian travel-
commonly considered to be a blessing – a lers should be discreet.
sign of virility and in many cases an economic Whilst undeniably friendly, local people
asset – and consequently families are often can seem shy and unsure about gringos
large in size. Travellers without children squeezed into their regular chicken bus. You
of their own may be regarded somewhat will seldom experience hostility, but it pays
suspiciously by locals, especially in areas to greet fellow passengers with a simple
“Buenas” and a smile to break the ice.
like the Guatemalan highlands. Homosexual
37
 – skimpy shorts and flesh-revealing tops are
not appropriate. Women will probably also
want something to cover their heads.

Machismo
Machismo is an ingrained part of Central
basics

American culture – female travellers will

frequently experience whistling, tssking and
even blatant catcalls, though probably not
anything more sinister than guys showing
C u l tu r e an d eti q u ette

off to their friends. It can be worth trying

to form alliances with local women (simply
making eye contact is enough), who do not
tolerate public heckling. If they do not scare
your unwanted suitors off, a handy phrase
to try is “déjame en paz!” – literally, “leave
me in peace!”. No matter how modestly
you behave, though, you will probably not
counteract the view that foreign women are
not only desirable, but also easily attainable.

Money matters
Travellers to Central America, especially
Westerners, are likely to experience the
uncomfortable assumption by locals that
you are in fact a multi-millionaire (even if
Politeness is valued highly, so even if your you are looking extremely scruffy). Although
Spanish is poor, take the trouble to learn you may be on a strict budget, the very fact
key pleasantries and they’ll serve you well. that you have been able to travel abroad,
Trips Worldwide.indd 1 17/3/08 17:13:11
Public drunkenness occurs rarely; try to coupled with your potential earning power
follow this lead, even in backpacker-heavy back home, means you have an economic
areas. freedom unobtainable to many you will
encounter. As a rule, however, you will
Dress ultimately be judged on your conduct and
Most locals dress modestly but smartly not your wealth: it isn’t helpful, therefore to
and visitors not wishing to draw unwelcome be too liberal or too mean with your cash.
attention should do the same. You will make Instead, show appreciation for good service
a better impression if you do – especially by tipping (as part of your budget), pay
worthwhile with officials. Flashy exhibitions what will satisfy both parties when haggling
of wealth are not recommended (jewellery and exchange friendship and hospitality
should be left at home). Shorts (for men for free. Haggling is accepted in markets
and women) are not generally worn away (both tourist and local). You can also haggle
from beaches, but low-cut tops for women – gently – over room prices, tour prices and
are becoming more usual, especially among taxi fares. Prices in shops are generally fixed,
the young. If visiting places of worship, although it’s usually worth asking if there are
especially, please dress accordingly discounts iIf you buy more than one item.

38
 Work and study

basics
A high unemployment rate and innumerable bureaucratic
hurdles make the possibility of finding paid work in Central
America very unlikely, although there are limited opportunities

W o r k an d s tu d y
to teach English, especially in wealthier countries like Costa
Rica. It’s far easier to work as a volunteer – many NGOs operate
in the region, relying mainly on volunteer staff. Opportunities
for studying Spanish are plentiful and often fairly cheap, with
a number of congenial Central American locations drawing
students from all over the world.
Teaching English and board paid for and perhaps even earn
a little pocket money, although more often
There are two options for teaching English
than not you’ll have to fund yourself. If you
in Central America: find work before you go,
don’t have any particular skills, you’ll almost
or just wing it and see what you come up
definitely have to pay for the privilege of
with after arriving; the latter is slightly less
volunteering and in many cases – particu-
risky if you already have a degree and/or
larly in conservation work – this doesn’t
teaching experience. You can get a CELTA
come cheap. While many positions are
(Certificate in English Language Teaching
to Adults), a TEFL (Teaching English as a organized prior to arrival, it’s also possible
Foreign Language) or a TESOL (Teaching to fix something up on the ground through
English to Speakers of Other Languages) word of mouth. Notice boards in the more
qualification before you leave home or even popular backpacker hostels are always good
while you’re abroad. Courses are not cheap sources of info.
(about £1025/US$2250–2500/AUS$2550
for the month’s full-time tuition) and you Studying Spanish
are unlikely to make this investment back Some people travel to Central America
very quickly on Central American wages. solely to learn Spanish and there are many
Once you have the necessary qualifica- cities and towns with highly respected
tions, the British Council’s website (W www schools. Antigua and Quetzaltenango in
.britishcouncil.org/work/job) and the TEFL Guatemala, San José in Costa Rica and
website (W www.tefl.com), both have a list to a lesser extent, Granada and San Juan
of English-teaching vacancies. del Sur in Nicaragua are all noted centres
Places like Guatemala City and San for language instruction. Prices vary, but
José in Costa Rica are your best bet for you can expect to pay around US$200
teaching in Central America, although per week, to include room and board with
colonial, tourist-oriented towns like Antigua a local family, a standard feature of many
in Guatemala and Granada in Nicaragua Spanish courses and great for full cultural
are also likely spots. immersion. Some schools will also include
activities, allowing you to take your learning
Volunteering out of the classroom and providing an
There are voluntary positions available in insight into the local area. Courses usually
Central America for everything from conser- run Monday to Friday, but should include
vation work in Costa Rica to human-rights seven nights’ homestay to take in the
work in Guatemala. If you have a useful skill weekend. Cheaper courses are available
or specialization, you might have your room if you are simply interested in lessons
39
 without lodging or activities, although your
learning curve is unlikely to be as steep. In the UK and Ireland
See individual city Directories for language- AFS UK T0113/242 6136, Wwww.afsuk.org.
school recommendations. Six-month community volunteer placements for young
people aged 18 to 34 in Costa Rica, Guatemala,
Useful contacts Honduras and Panama.
basics

British Council T 020/7930 8466. The

Council’s Central Management of Direct Teaching
In the US and Canada (T 020/7389 4931) recruits TEFL teachers for
posts worldwide (check W www.britishcouncil
W o r k an d s tu dy

AFS Intercultural Programs US T1-800/AFS-

.org/work/jobs for a current list of vacancies).
INFO, Canada T1-800/361-7248 or 514-288-3282,
It also publishes a book, Year Between, aimed
Wwww.afs.org. Cultural immersion programmes for principally at gap-year students detailing volunteer
high-school students and graduates in Costa Rica, programmes and schemes abroad.
Guatemala, Honduras and Panama. BUNAC US T1-800/GO-BUNAC, UK T020/7251
Alliances Abroad T 1-888/6-ABROAD or 3472, Republic of Ireland T 1/477 3027, Wwww
512/457-8062, W www.alliancesabroad.com. .bunac.org. Organizes working holidays in Costa Rica
Combined language- and conservation-themed for students.
voluntary placements in Costa Rica lasting two Cactus Languages T0845/130 4775, Wwww
weeks to one year. Intermediate Spanish ability .cactuslanguage.co.uk. Brighton-based language-
required. holiday specialist with wide range of courses in
American Institute for Foreign Study US Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua and
T 1-866/906-2437, Wwww.aifs.com. Language Panama. Prices often lower than applying directly to
study and cultural immersion in Costa Rica. the schools.
AmeriSpan T 1-800/879-6640, W www Camp America UK T020/7581 7373, Canada
.amerispan.com. Language programmes, volunteer/ T902/ 422 1455, Australia T03/9826 0111,
internship placements (English teaching, healthcare, NZ T9416 5337, South Africa T021/419 5740,
environment, social work, etc) and academic study- Wwww.campamerica.co.uk. Organizes cultural
abroad courses throughout Central America. exchange programs all over the world.
Amigos de las Américas T 1-800/231-7796 or Earthwatch Institute T 01865/318 838,
713/782-5290, Wwww.amigoslink.org. Veteran W www.uk.earthwatch.org/europe. International
nonprofit organization placing high school- and nonprofit organization dedicated to environmental
college-age students in child health promotion and sustainability. Voluntary positions assisting
other community projects in Costa Rica, Honduras, archeologists, biologists and even ethnomusi�
cologists in the field in Costa Rica, Nicaragua
Nicaragua and Panama.
and Belize.
Council on International Educational Exchange
Gapyear.com Wwww.gapyear.com. Comprehen-
(CIEE) T1-800/2COUNCIL, Wwww.ciee.org.
sive resource with search engine providing links to
Semester and summer study programmes in Costa
volunteer and language teaching/learning options
Rica, with subjects ranging from agriculture and
worldwide.
agroecology to Spanish language.
Peace Brigades International T 020/7561
Earthwatch Institute T 1-800/776-0188, 9141, W www.peacebrigades.org. NGO dedicated
W www.earthwatch.org. Voluntary positions in Costa to protecting human rights with placements
Rica, Nicaragua and Panama assisting scientists in accompanying human-rights workers in Guatemala.
the field. Costs (including a small monthly stipend) are
Peace Corps T 1-800/424-8580, Wwww covered although fundraising is encouraged and
.peacecorps.gov. US institution which recruits volun- applicants need to be 25 or older and fluent in
teers of all ages (minimum 18) and from all walks Spanish.
of professional life for two-year postings throughout Raleigh International T 020/7371 8585,
Central America. All applicants must be US citizens. W www.raleigh.org.uk. Long-established youth-
World Learning T1-800/336-1616, Wwww development charity working on community and
.sit.edu. Accredited college semesters abroad. The environmental projects worldwide. Opportunities
large Latin American studies programme includes an for both young volunteers (17–25) and older skilled
ecology/conservation course in Belize and a politically staff (25+). Central American projects in Costa Rica
themed course in Nicaragua. and Nicaragua.

40
 UK T020/8939 9057, Wwww.ciee.org. Leading
In Australia, New Zealand NGO offering study programs and volunteer projects
and South Africa around the world.
Earthwatch Australia T 03/9682 6828, Wwww
AFS Australia T1300/131 736 or 02/9215 0077, .earthwatch.org/australia. Australian branch of this
NZ T0800/600 300 or 04/494 6020, South nonprofit organization that places prospective volun-

basics
Africa T11/447 2673. international enquiries teers with an array of scientists from various fields in
T 1-212-807-8686, locations throughout Central America.
Australian Volunteers International T03/9279 Global Volunteer Network T 04/569 9080,
1788, Wwww.ozvol.org.au. Postings of up to two W www.volunteer.org.nz. Voluntary placements on
years in Costa Rica, Guatemala, El Salvador and community projects worldwide. No Central American

Heal th
Nicaragua with shorter-term, team-based assign- destinations at the time of writing, although new
ments for younger volunteers. programmes are being researched all the time and
Council on International Educational Exchange it’s worth having a check on the website.
(CIEE) US T1-800/40-STUDY or 1-207/533-7600,

Health
It’s always easier to get sick in a country with a different
climate, food and germs, and certainly still more so in a poor
country with lower standards of sanitation than you might be
accustomed to. Most visitors, however, get through Central
America without catching anything more serious than a
dose of “traveller’s diarrhoea”, as long as they observe basic
precautions about hygiene, untreated water and insect bites.
Above all, it’s important to get the best health keeping you healthy. Bathe frequently,
advice you can before you depart: visit your wash your hands before eating and avoid
doctor or a travel clinic. You should also sharing water bottles or utensils. Make sure
invest in medical insurance (see p.50). to eat a balanced diet – eating peeled
fresh fruit helps keep up your vitamin
general precautions and mineral intake (see p.42 for informa-
There’s no need to freak out and go tion about avoiding intestinal troubles);
overboard, but as you are packing consider malnutrition can lower your resistance to
putting together a travel medical kit. germs and bacteria. Hepatitis B, HIV and
Components to include might be: painkillers AIDS – all transmitted through blood or
and anti-inflammatory drugs, antiseptic sexual contact – are common in Central
cream, band-aids and gauze bandages, America. You should take all the usual,
surgical tape, anti-diarrhoeal medicine well-�publicized precautions to avoid them.
(Imodium or Lomotil) and rehydration salts, Two other causes of frequent problems in
diarrhoeal remedies (Pepto Bismol or similar), the region are altitude and the sun. The
insect repellent, sun block, anti-fungal cream answer in both cases is to take it easy;
and sterile scissors and tweezers. allow yourself time to acclimatize and build
Once in Central America, basic hygienic up exposure to the sun gradually. Avoid
practices will go a long way towards dehydration by drinking enough – water
41
 or fruit juice rather than beer or coffee (see tastes. Water filters remove visible impuri-
below for information about water safety). ties and larger pathogenic organisms (most
Overheating can cause heatstroke, which bacteria and parasites). To be really sure
is potentially fatal. Lowering body tempera- your filtered water is also purified, however,
ture (by taking a tepid shower, for example) chemical sterilization – using either chlorine
is the first step in treatment. or iodine tablets, or a tincture of iodine liquid
basics

– is advisable; iodine is more effective in

inoculations destroying amoebic cysts. Both chlorine
and iodine unfortunately leave a nasty after-
If possible, all inoculations should be sorted
taste (which can be masked with lime juice).
out at least ten weeks before departure with
Heal th

Pregnant women or people with thyroid

your local health clinic. The only obligatory
problems should consult their doctor before
jab required to enter Central America is a
using iodine tablets or purifiers. Inexpensive
yellow fever vaccination; however, this is
iodine removal filters are recommended if
only needed if you’re arriving from a “high-
treated water is being used continuously for
risk” area – northern South America and
more than a month.
much of central Africa – in which case you
Any good outdoor equipment shop will
need to carry your vaccination certificate.
stock a range of water treatment products;
A yellow fever shot is also highly recom-
their staff will give you the best advice for
mended if travelling in Panama east of the
your particular needs.
canal. Long-term travellers should consider
the combined hepatitis A and B and the
rabies vaccines. And all travellers should
Intestinal troubles
check that they are up to date with the Diarrhoea is the stomach ailment you’re
usual polio, diphtheria, tetanus, typhoid and most likely to encounter. Its main cause is
hepatitis A jabs. simply the change in your diet: the food in
Central America contains a whole new set of
food and Water bacteria, as well as perhaps rather more of
them than you’re used to. Don’t try anything
safety too exotic in the first few days, but do try to
People differ in their sensitivity to food. If find some local natural yogurt, which is a
you are worried or prone to digestive upsets good way to introduce friendly bacteria to
then there are a few simple things to keep your system. Powdered milk, however, can
in mind: steer clear of raw shellfish and be troublesome, due to being an unfamiliar
seafood when inland; only eat raw fruits form of lactose.
and vegetables if they can be peeled; avoid If you’re afflicted with a bout of diarhhoea,
salads unless rinsed in purified water. the best cure is the simplest one: take it
Contaminated water is a major cause of easy for a day or two and make sure you
sickness in Central America, and even if it rehydrate. It’s a good idea to carry sachets
looks clean, all drinking water should be of rehydration salts, although you can
regarded with caution (even when cleaning make up your own solution by dissolving
teeth and showering). That said, however, five teaspoons of sugar or honey and half a
it’s also essential to increase fluid intake to teaspoon of salt in a litre of water. Reintro-
prevent dehydration. Bottled water is widely duce only bland foods at first (rice, dry toast,
available, but always check that the seal is etc) – papaya and coconut are also good.
intact, since refilling empties with tap water Diarrhoea remedies like Imodium and Lomotil
for resale is not unknown. Many restaurants should be saved for emergencies, like if
use purified water (agua purificada), but you need to travel immediately. Only if the
always ask. symptoms last more than four or five days
There are various methods of treating do you need to worry. If you can’t get to a
water while you are travelling: boiling for a doctor for an exact diagnosis, a last resort
minimum of five minutes is the most effective would be a course of Ciproxin (ciprofloxacin),
method of sterilization, but it is not always which you may want to consider carrying in
practical, and will not remove unpleasant your medical kit.
42
 Cholera, an acute bacterial infection, £20 per week) can be prohibitive. Another
is recognizable by watery diarrhoea and alternative to mefloquine is doxycycline,
vomiting, though many victims may have which is cheaper but can cause increased
only mild or even no symptoms. However, sensitivity to sunlight. Consult your doctor
risk of infection is considered low, as about which drug will be best for you. It’s
Central America was recently declared a extremely important to finish your course of

basics
cholera-free zone by the Pan American anti-malarials, as there is a time lag between
Health Organisation. bite and infection. If you do become ill after
If you’re spending any time in rural areas returning home, consult your doctor and be
you also run the risk of picking up various sure to inform him or her that you’ve been

Heal th
parasitic infections: protozoa – amoeba in a malarial risk area.
and giardia – and intestinal worms. These
sound hideous, but they’re easily treated other Bites and
once detected. If you suspect you have
an infestation take a stool sample to a
stings
good pathology lab and go to a doctor Taking steps to avoid getting bitten by
or pharmacist with the test results (see insects, particularly mosquitoes, is
“Getting medical help”, p.44). More serious essential. In addition to malaria, mosquitoes
is amoebic dysentery, which is endemic in can transmit dengue fever, a viral infection
many parts of the region. The symptoms that is prevalent – and on the increase
are more or less the same as a bad case – throughout Central America (usually
of diarrhoea, but include bleeding. On the occurring in epidemic outbreaks). Unlike
whole, a course of Flagyl (metronidazole or malaria, the mosquitoes that pass dengue
tinidozole) will cure it; if you plan to visit the fever are active during the day, and there’s
isolated rural reaches of Central America no vaccine or specific treatment, so you
then it’s worth carrying these, just in case. need to pay attention to avoiding bites.
If possible get some, and some advice on In general, sleep in screened rooms or
their usage, from a doctor before you go. under nets, burn mosquito coils containing
To avoid contracting such parasites think permethrin (available everywhere), cover up
carefully about swimming in rivers and arms and legs (though note that mosquitoes
lakes during or just after the rainy season, are attracted to dark-coloured clothing),
when trash washes down hillsides into especially around dawn and dusk when
the water. mosquitoes are most active, and use insect
repellent containing over 35 percent DEET.
Malaria Sand flies, often present on beaches, are
Malaria, caused by the transmission tiny and very difficult to see, and hence avoid
of a parasite in the saliva of an infected – you will be made aware of their presence
anopheles mosquito (active at night), is only when they bite, and by then it can be
endemic in many parts of Central America, too late. The bites, usually found around
especially in the rural Caribbean lowlands. the ankles, itch like hell and last for days.
There are several different anti-malarial Don’t give in to the temptation to scratch,
prophylactics available, all of which must as this causes the bites to get worse and
be started in advance of travel, so make last longer. Sandflies can spread cutaneous
sure you leave plenty of time to visit your leishmaniasis, an extremely unpleasant
doctor. The recommended prophylactic for disease characterized by skin lesions that
all of Central America, except for the area can take months and even years to heal if
east of the Panama Canal, is chloroquine; left untreated. Chiggers (coloradillas) are
east of the canal, including the San Blas also a nuisance, small red mites which bite
Islands, it’s mefloquine. Mefloquine (also around the waistband.
known as Lariam), however, can have Scorpions are common: mostly nocturnal,
upsetting side effects; Malarone™ is a they hide during the heat of the day under
less controversial alternative, with minimal rocks and in crevices. Their sting is painful
side effects, although its cost (around (occasionally fatal) and can become
43
 infected, so you should seek medical you may well want to consider a pre-exposure
treatment. You’re less likely to be bitten by vaccination, despite the hefty cost. Although
a spider, but the advice is the same as for this won’t give you complete immunity, it will
scorpions and venomous insects – seek give you a window of 24–48 hours to seek
medical treatment if the pain persists or treatment and reduce the amount of post-
increases. exposure vaccine you’ll need if bitten. Bats
basics

You’re unlikely to see a snake, but wearing can also carry the rabies virus; keep an eye
boots and long trousers will go a long way out for them when entering carves.
towards preventing a bite in the event you
do – walk heavily and they will usually slither Getting medical help
Heal th

away. Most snakes are harmless – excep- For minor medical problems, head for the
tions are the fer-de-lance (which lives in local farmacia (pharmacy) – look for a green
both wet and dry environments, in both cross. Pharmacists are knowledgeable and
forest and open country, but rarely emerges helpful, and many speak some English.
during the day) and the bushmaster (found They can also sell drugs over the counter
in places with heavy rainfall, or near streams (if necessary) that are only available by
and rivers), both of which can be aggressive, prescription at home. Most large cities have
and whose venom fatal. If you do get bitten doctors and dentists, many trained in the
remember what the snake looked like (kill it US, who are experienced in treating visitors
if it’s safe to do so), wrap a lightly restrictive and speak good English. Your embassy
bandage above and below the bite area, but will always have a list of recommended
don’t apply enough pressure to restrict blood doctors and hospitals, and we’ve included
flow and never use a tourniquet. Disinfect some in our “Listings” for the main towns.
the bite area and apply hard pressure with Medical insurance (see p.50) is essential. If
a gauze pad, taped in place; then immobi- you suspect something is amiss with your
lize the bitten limb as far as possible. Seek insides, it might be worth heading straight for
medical help immediately. a pathology lab (laboratorio médico), found in
Swimming and snorkelling might bring all main towns, before seeing a doctor, as the
you into contact with potentially dangerous doctor will probably send you there anyway.
sea creatures. It’s extremely unlikely you’ll Many rural communities have a health centre
be a victim of shark attack, but jellyfish are (centro de salud or puesto de salud), where
common and all corals will sting. Some healthcare is free, although there may be
jellyfish, like the Portuguese man-o’-war, only a nurse or health-worker available and
with its distinctive purple, bag-like sail, have you can’t rely on finding an English-speaker.
very long tentacles with stinging cells, and Should you need an injection or transfusion,
an encounter will result in raw, red welts. make sure that the equipment is sterile (it
Equally painful is a brush against fire coral: might be worth bringing a sterile kit from
in each case clean the wound with vinegar home) and ensure any blood you receive
or iodine and seek medical help if the pain is screened.
persists or infection develops.
Rabies does exist in Central America. You’ll Medical resources for
see stray dogs everywhere; the best advice
is to give them a wide berth. Many strays
travellers
are accustomed to having rocks hurled at
them, so often simply bending over with a
In the US and Canada
look of intent is enough to scare them. If
CDC T1-877/394-8747, Wwww.cdc.gov/travel.
you are bitten or scratched wash the wound
Official US government travel health site.
immediately with soap and running water International Society for Travel Medicine
for five minutes and apply alcohol or iodine. T1-770/736-7060, Wwww.istm.org. Has a full list
Seek treatment immediately – rabies is fatal of travel health clinics.
once symptoms appear. If you’re going to be Canadian Society for International Health
working with animals, or planning a long stay, Wwww.csih.org. Extensive list of travel health
especially in rural areas far from medical help, centres.
44
In the UK and Ireland Travel Medicine Services T028/9031 5220.
British Airways Travel Clinics T0845/600 2236, Tropical Medical Bureau Republic of Ireland
Www.britishairways.com/travel/healthclinintro T1850/487 674, Wwww.tmb.ie.
/public/en_gb for nearest clinic.
Hospital for Tropical Diseases Travel Clinic In Australia, New Zealand and
T 0845/155 5000 or 020/7387 4411, Wwww South Africa

basics
.thehtd.org. Travellers’ Medical and Vaccination Centre
MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Travel- T 1300/658 844, W www.tmvc.com.au. Lists
lers Abroad) T 0870/606 2782 or Wwww.masta travel clinics in Australia, New Zealand and South
.org for the nearest clinic. Africa.

T r av el es s en ti al s
Travel essentials
Costs separately for activities, as one-off costs (for
example, a day’s snorkelling or diving) can
Your daily expenses are likely to include
be high and would blow a daily budget. In
accommodation, food and drink and
general, the cheapest countries in the region
transport. You may wish to budget
are Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and

budget tips
• Slow down. Racing from place to place eats into your budget, as you’ll be
forking out for transport and tours every day.
• Eat and drink what the locals do. Local staples can be half the price of even the
most reasonable tourist menu. Set lunches in traditional comedores are great
value.
• Cut down your beer bill. When buying booze it’s cheapest to get it from the small
tiendas (shops) and take back the bottles to claim the deposit. Litre bottles are
more economical than the small 330ml ones.
• Refill your water bottle. Many hostels/hotels offer water refills for free or a small
fee. Alternatively, in some countries you can buy 500ml bags (bolsitas) of water. If
staying still, invest in larger gallon bottles.
• Use local transport. Tourist shuttles should be the exception, not the norm.
• Let your money work for you. Try to get a bank account that allows free
withdrawals at ATMs. This also allows you to carry small amounts of cash, as
ATMs are plentiful.
• Share costs with other travellers. The price of a private room for two is often
cheaper than two dorm beds; a triple is even better value.
• Walk as much as possible. Taxis are often a disproportionately expensive method
of transport.
• Shop in markets, bakeries and supermarkets. Self-catering is worthwhile if you’re
staying in one place and can eat your leftovers for breakfast.
• Learn to haggle. Bargaining can be fun. Don’t be afraid to confront taxi drivers
or chancers who you suspect are trying to rip you off. However, don’t be too
ruthless – bargaining over a few cents is not cool.
• Remember that everyone has their own budget and economizing is not a
competition or an indicator of your backpacking credentials.

45
 Youth and student discounts
There are few youth or student discounts in the region. Indeed, often you will find
yourself charged more than employed locals simply because you are a foreigner.
It is always worth enquiring if discounts are available, however, as on occasion
entrance fees may be tiered (and applicable to foreigners as well as nationals). If
basics

a discount is applicable you will need to show ID. Most useful is the International
Student Identity Card (ISIC), which can also be used to obtain discounts on flight
bookings. You can get these from STA Travel (see p.31) and affiliated agencies with
current official ID issued by your school/university (note: enrolling at a Spanish
T r av el es s en ti al s

language school is generally not sufficient to obtain official student ID).

Nicaragua, with Belize, Costa Rica and quoted in this guide are based on high
Panama more expensive. However, even in season rates).
these countries it is still possible to travel on Tiered pricing (charging foreigners more
a budget of around US$30 per day, with the than nationals) is becoming more common,
most significant difference being the cost of in particular for entrance fees. This is based
public transport and accommodation. By on the premise that tourists can afford
following the cost-saving tips on p.45, it is considerably more to enjoy visiting attrac-
possible to travel in Guatemala, for example, tions than those on local salaries. There’s
for as little as US$15 per day. nothing you can do about it.
Generally speaking, the price quoted in
restaurants and hotels is the price you pay. Crime and personal
However, in some more upmarket establish-
ments an additional tax will appear on your
safety
bill; it’s worth checking if tax is included While political violence has decreased
from the outset. Service is almost never over recent years, crime rates in Central
included, and while not expected, tipping America continue to rise, and tourists make
for good service can make a huge impact handy targets. Though the majority of crime
to the basic wage. Prices for accommoda- is opportunistic theft – bag snatching or
tion (as well as some airfares and organized pick-pocketing – some criminals do operate
tours) can be considerably cheaper in low in gangs and are prepared to use extreme
season (Sept–Dec), when it’s always worth violence. It is commonly accepted that
negotiating to obtain the best price (prices Guatemala tops the list for crimes committed
against tourists, but it is possible to be
the victim of crime anywhere in the region,
Prices especially if you let your guard down.
At the beginning of each chapter
you’ll find a guide to “rough costs”, General precautions
including food, accommodation
and travel. Prices are quoted in As you’re packing, keep the sentimental
US dollars for ease of comparison. value of what you take with you to a
Within the chapter itself prices are minimum. Do not wear jewellery, and carry
quoted mainly in local currency, only a small amount of cash in your wallet,
though as US dollars are widely with dummy credit cards (past their expiry
accepted prices are occasionally date) to offer muggers as a decoy. Larger
quoted in that currency as well. Note
volumes of cash and credit cards should be
that prices change all the time; we
kept close to your body – in a money belt,
have done our best to make sure
hidden pocket or even in your shoes. Scan
that all prices are accurate, but
photocopies of any important documents
as tourism increases in popularity
throughout the region it’s likely that (passport, insurance, etc) into a computer
prices will rise incrementally. and email them to yourself, so you can
access them even if you lose everything.
46
 Government travel advice sites
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs W www.dfat.gov.au, Wwww
.smartraveller.gov.au.
British Foreign & Commonwealth Office Wwww.fco.gov.uk.

basics
Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs W www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
Irish Department of Foreign Affairs W www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie.
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs Wwww.mft.govt.nz.
US State Department Wwww.travel.state.gov.

T r av el es s en ti al s
It’s worth carrying a paper copy too, so that robbery (particularly of buses) and rape
you can leave the originals in a hotel safe. are all dangers to be aware of. If threat-
There is always a dilemma about whether to ened with a weapon, do not resist. You
carry electronic devices (such as a camera can reduce your chances of falling victim
or MP3 player) on your person or leave them to these crimes by staying in populated
in your hotel. If you choose to leave them, areas or around other travellers. However,
make sure they’re not accessible – it’s worth it should be noted that tourist shuttles
packing a small padlock and short length of are actually more likely to be a target for
chain (or cable lock), so that you can create hijackers, especially at night.
a DIY safe in a wardrobe or under a bed.
It’s very important in Central America to Drugs
keep an eye on your belongings at all times.
Never put anything down or let your posses- Drugs of all kinds are available everywhere.
sions out of your sight unless you’re confident Buying or using really isn’t worth the risk:
they are in a safe place. The highest-risk penalties are very strict. If you are arrested
areas for opportunistic theft are large urban with drugs your embassy will probably
centres, bus stations, at ATMs and at border send someone to visit you, and maybe find
crossings. Buses are also a focus for petty an English-speaking lawyer, but otherwise
thievery. When travelling by bus you’ll often you’re on your own. Practically every capital
be separated from your main bag – it will city has foreigners incarcerated for drug
usually end up on the roof. This is generally offences who’d never do it again if they knew
safe enough (and you’ll probably have little what the punishment was like.
option in any case). Theft of the bag itself is
unlikely, but opportunist thieves may dip into Reporting a crime
zippers and outer pockets, so don’t leave
anything you’d miss accessible. Some travel- If you are unfortunate enough to suffer a
lers choose to put their pack into a sack to crime, report the incident immediately to
disguise it, prevent pilfering and also keep it the police – if there is a tourist police force,
clean and dry – not a bad idea. If you carry try them first – if only to get a copy of the
a day-pack, fill it wisely and keep it on your report (denuncia) which you’ll need for
person (preferably strapped to you). Do not insurance purposes. The police in Central
use overhead racks on buses. Needless to America are poorly paid and, in the case of
say, there is a greater risk of crime after dark, petty crime, you can’t expect them to do
so try to arrive in new towns in daylight so much more than make out the report. If you
that you’re not wandering unlit streets with all can, also report the crime to your embassy
your gear. Bear in mind, too, that the threat – it helps the consular staff to build up a
of petty crime does not exclusively come higher-level case for the better protection of
tourists.
from the local population – unscrupulous
fellow travellers have been known to help
themselves to anything of value. Electricity
Violent crime does occur in Central All countries in the region use sockets
America. Muggings at knifepoint, armed accepting the flat two-pronged plug
47
 common to the majority of the Americas; Wwww.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/sanjose; UK, Apartado
wwww.kropla.com is a useful website with 815-1007, Edificio Centro Colón (piso/floor 11), San
information about adapters and converters. José T(506) 2258-2025, [email protected];
Standard voltage is 110–120v. Be wary of US, C 120/Av 0, Pavas, San José T (506) 2519-
electric showerheads, often with protruding 2000, F(506) 2519-2305.
wires, in budget accommodation. If it isn’t El Salvador US, Final Blvd Santa Elena, Antiguo
basics

Cuscatlán, La Libertad, San Salvador T(503)

working (more than likely), do not touch the
2501-2600, F(503) 2278-5522; Canada, Centro
fitting. You may want to consider using a
Financiero Gigante, 63 Av Sur y Alameda Roosevelt,
towel to turn off the conductive taps, too.
Local 6, Nivel Lobby II, San Salvador, T(503)
2279-4655, Wwww.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/elsalvador;
T r av el es s en ti al s

Entry requirements UK (Honorary Consul), PO Box 242, San Salvador

Nationals of the UK, Ireland, Canada, the US, T (503) 2281-555, Eclaims@gibson
Australia and New Zealand do not need visas .com.sv.
to visit any of the seven Central American Guatemala Canada, 13 Calle 8-44, Zone 10,
countries. Visitors are eligible for stays of Edificio Edyma Plaza, Guatemala City T (502) 2363
4348, Wwww.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/guatemala
either thirty days (Belize, Panama) or ninety
/menu-en.asp; UK, Edificio Torre Internacional, Nivel
days (Costa Rica and the CA-4 countries
11, 16 Calle 0-55, Zona 10, Guatemala City T (502)
– see box below). You should have a valid
2367 5425, F(502) 2367 5430, Econsular
passport with at least six months remaining [email protected]; US, Av Reforma 7-01,
and, officially, an onward ticket and proof of Zona 10, Guatemala City, T (502) 2326 4000,
funds (these are seldom checked but may [email protected].
be a sticking point at border crossings or Honduras Canada, Centro Financiero Banexpo
customs, especially entering Costa Rica). For Tercer Piso, Blvd San Juan Bosco, Colonia
more information about specific countries Payaqua, Tegucigalpa T (504) 232 4551, W www
and border crossings in Central America, .dfait-maeci.gc.ca/sanjose/tglpa-en.asp; US, Av
see the relevant guide chapter. You should La Paz, Tegucigalpa T (504) 236 9320/238 5114,
also always check with your embassy before F (504) 236 9037.
travelling. A useful website for specific details Nicaragua Canada, Costado Oriental de la Casa
of embassy locations worldwide is Wwww Nasareth, Una cuadra arriba, Calle El Noval,
.embassiesabroad.com Managua T (505) 268-0433/3323, W www
.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/sanjose/mngua-en.asp; US,
Km5 1/2 (5.5) Carretera Sur, Managua T (505)
Embassies in Central 252-7100, E [email protected].
America Panama Canada, World Trade Center First Floor,
Commercial Gallery, Calle 53E, Marbella, Panama
Belize UK, PO Box 91, Belmopan T(501) 822- City T (507) 264 9731, W www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca
2146, [email protected]; US, Floral Park Rd, /panama/menu-en.asp; UK, MMG Tower, Calle 53,
Belmopan T (501)822-4011, Eembbelize Panama City T (507) 269 0866, E britemb
@state.gov. @cwpanama.net; US, PAS Building 783, Demetrio
Costa Rica Canada, Apartado 351–1007, Edificio Basilio Lakas Avenue Clayton, Panama City
Centro Colón, San José T(506) 2242-4400, T (507) 207 7000, E [email protected].

Central America Border Control Agreement

Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua are party to the Central
America Border Control Agreement (CA-4). Under the terms of this agreement,
tourists may travel within any of these four countries for a period of up to ninety
days without completing entry and exit formalities at border and immigration
checkpoints. The ninety-day period begins at the first point of entry to any of the
CA-4 countries. Fines are applied for travellers who exceed the ninety-day limit,
although a request for an extension can be made for up to thirty additional days
by paying a fee before the limit expires. If you are expelled from any of the four
countries you are also excluded from the entire CA-4 region.

48
 hn; Nicaragua, KM.11, 1/2 Carretera a Masaya,
Central American embassies Managua, T(505) 799609; Panama, C Abel Bravo
abroad y Calle 57, Barrio Bella Vista, Edif. Torre Cancun,
Apto 14-A, Panama City T (507) 269 3475; UK, 13
Belize Canada, c/o McMillan Binch, Suite 3800, Fawcett St, London SW10 9HN T (020) 73513042,
South Tower, Royal Bank Plaza, Toronto, Ontario [email protected]; US, 2220

basics
T (416) 865-7000; El Salvador, C El Bosque Norte, R Street NW 20008, Washington DC T (202) 745-
Col La Lima IV, San Salvador T (503) 2248 1423; 4952, Wwww.guatemala-embassy.org.
Guatemala, 5 Av 5-55, Zona 14, Europlaza, Torre II, Honduras Belize, 22 Gabourel Lane, PO Box 285,
Oficina 1502, Guatemala City T (502) 2367 3883, Belize City T(501) 224-5889, [email protected];
E [email protected]; Honduras, Hotel de

T r av el es s en ti al s
Canada, 151 Slater St, Suite 805-A, Ottawa, Ontario,
Honduras, R/do Hotel Honduras Maya, Tegucigalpa KIP 5-H3 T(1-613) 233-8900, Wwww
T (504) 238 4614, E consuladobelize@yahoo .embassyhonduras.ca; Costa Rica, Urbanizacion
.com; Panama, PO Box 0819-12297, El Dorado, Trejos Montealegre, De Banca Promerica 100 al
T (507) 236 4132; UK, Belize High Commission, Oeste, 100 Sur y 350 al Oeste, San Rafael de Escazu,
3rd Floor, 45 Crawford Place, London, W1H 4LP San José T(506) 2915147, Eemhondcr
T 0207723 3603, E bzhc-lon@btconnect @sol.racsa.co.cr; El Salvador, 89 Av Nte entre 7
.com; US, 2535 Massachusetts Ave NW, y 9 C Pte, No.561 Colonia Escalón, San Salvador
Washington DC, 20008 T (202) 332-9636, T(503)263-2808; Guatemala, 19 Av “A”, 20-19
W www.embassyofbelize.org. Zona 10, Guatemala City 0101 T(502) 366 5640,
Costa Rica Australia, De la Sala House, Piso 11, 30 [email protected]; Nicaragua, Reparto San
Clarence St, NSW, 2000, Sydney T(02) 9261 1177; Juan, del Gimnasio Hércules 1 cuadra al Sur,
Canada, 208-135 York St, Ottawa, ON K1N 5T4 1 cuadra al Este, C San Juan, no. 312, Apartado
T (613) 562-2855; Panama, Avenida Samuel Lewis, Postal No.321 T(505) 270-4133, Eembhonduras
Edificio Omega Piso 3ro, a un costado del Santuario @cablenet.com.ni; Panama, C 31, Av Justo
Nacional, Panama City T(507) 264 2980; UK, Arosemena, Apdo. Postal 8704, Zona 5, Panamá City
Flat 1, 14 Lancaster Gate, London, W2 3LH, T (020) T(507) 264 5513, Eehpam@cableonda
7706 8844; US, 2114 S Street, N.W., 20008, .net; UK, 115 Gloucester Place, London W1U 6JT
Washington DC T (202) 234-2945, T(020)74864880; US, 3007 Tilden St NW, Suite
Whttp://costarica-embassy.org. 4M, Washington DC 20008 T(202)966-7702,
El Salvador Belize, 49 Nanche St, Belmopan [email protected].
T (501) 235-162; Canada, 209 Kent St, Ottawa, Nicaragua Costa Rica, Avenida Central # 2540,
K2P 1Z8 T(613) 238-2939; Costa Rica, Paseo Barrio La California, Frente al Pizza Hut, San José,
Colon, Av 1a C 30 No.53 “N”, San José T (506) T(506) 223-1489, [email protected]; UK,
2256-0043; Guatemala, 5a Av 8-15, Zona 9, Vicarage House, Suite 12, 58-60 Kensington Church
Guatemala City T(502) 2360 7660; Honduras, St, London W8 4DB, T(020) 793 82373, Eemb
Colonia Ruben Dario, 2a Av y 5a C No.620, apartado [email protected]; US, 1627 New Hampshire
Postal 1936, Tegucigalpa T(504) 239 0901, Ave NW, Washington DC, 20009, T(202) 939-6570,
E [email protected]; Nicaragua, Km 9 1/2 [email protected].
Carretera a Masaya, Residential Las Colinas, Pasaje Panama Canada, 130 Albert St., Suite 300
Los Cerros 142, Managua T (505) 276-0712, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 T (613) 236-7177,
E [email protected]; Panama, Edificio E [email protected]; Costa Rica,
Metropolis, C Manuel Espinoza Batista, Piso 4, Barrio La Granja, del Antiguo Higueron de San
Apt 4-A, Postal 8016, Zona 7, Panama City T(507) Pedro 200 sur y 25 este, San Pedro, Apartado
223 6385, [email protected]. 103-2050 San Pedro de Montes de Oca, San José
Guatemala Australia (Consulate), 41 Blarney Ave, T (506) 280-1570, E [email protected];
Killarney Heights, NSW 2087 T (02) 9551 3018; El Salvador, Av Bungamilias #21 Colonia San
Belize, 8 A St, Belize City, T (501) 33314; Canada, Francisco, San Salvador T (503) 2298-0773;
130 Albert St, Suite 1010, Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 5G4 Guatemala, 12 C 2-65, Zona 14, Guatemala City
T (613) 233-7237, E [email protected]; Costa T (502) 2366 3338, E [email protected];
Rica, De Pops de Curridabat, 500Sur, 30 Oeste, Honduras, Colonia Palmira, Edificio Palmira Piso 2,
2da Casa Izquierda, San José T (506) 283-2555, Frente al Hotel Honduras, Maya Tegucigalpa,
E [email protected]; El Salvador, 15 Av Nte, T (504) 239 5508; Nicaragua, Reparto Mantica,
No.135, San Salvador T(503) 271225, Honduras, del Cuartel General de Bomberos, 1c. abajo, Casa
C Principal, Col Loma Linda Norte, Tegucigalpa no. 93, Esquina Opuesta al Restaurante, Managua
T (504) 311596, [email protected]. T (505)266-8633; UK, Panama House, 40 Hertford
49
 Border Crossings
Most travellers in Central America take advantage of the close proximity of the
region’s many distinct nations, crossing international borders regularly. While for
the most part this is straightforward, “border days” can also be some of the most
exhausting of your trip – hopefully these tips will help ease the strain.
basics

• Always check specific entry requirements before heading for the border.
• Ensure that your passport is stamped on both entry and exit. (See box, p.48, for
information on getting stamped in the CA-4 countries.)
• Try to cross in the morning, when public transport links are more frequent and
T r av el es s en ti al s

queues lighter.
• Research current exchange rates online at W www.oanda.com or www.xe.com
and be savvy when dealing with moneychangers.
• If asked for “processing fees” request a receipt (such as the stamp given by
Panama). Without one, said fees are not legal.
• Do not engage in discussion of your business with strangers. Borders are
notorious hang-outs for petty criminals and con men. If you are confused about
how to proceed, ask a uniformed official.
• At popular crossings avoid group transportation, which will slow your progress
considerably. Chicken buses operate these routes as frequently as any other
(although not at night).
• If given a stamped entry document do not lose it – you will require it later for
departure.

St, London W1Y 7TG T (020) 7409 2255, W www and harassment of, particularly, gay men
.panaconsul.com; US, 2862 McGill Terrace NW, by police and officials does exist. Gay and
Washington DC, 20008 T (202) 483-1407, lesbian travellers are unlikely to experience
W www.embassyofpanama.org. problems, however, if they remain discreet.
Unsurprisingly, there is little in the way of
Customs an open gay community or scene. In the
more cosmopolitan capital cities a few gay
All Central American countries allow the import nightspots exist, although these are almost
and export of a small amount of tobacco and entirely geared towards men.
alcohol. The exact amounts vary, but at their
minimum levels 80 cigarettes and 1.5 litres of Insurance
alcohol are allowed. Belize and Panama do
You’d do well to take out an insurance
not allow the import or export of plants, fruit,
policy before travelling to cover against theft,
vegetables, meat or animal products. In Belize
loss, illness or injury. Before paying for a new
you are restricted to bringing in and taking out
policy, however, it’s worth checking whether
up to 100 Belizean dollars of local currency,
you are already covered on any existing home
while in Guatemala the import/export of local
or medical insurance policies that you may
currency (quetzales) is completely prohibited.
hold. A typical travel insurance policy usually
At some border crossings (especially on the
provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets
Interamericana Highway) you should expect
and – up to a certain limit – cash or cheques,
to have your bags searched, often a lengthy
as well as cancellation or curtailment of your
process when travelling by long-distance bus.
journey. Most of them exclude so-called
dangerous sports unless an extra premium
Gay and lesbian is paid: in Central America this can mean
travellers scuba-diving, white-water rafting, surfing
While there are no laws forbidding the and trekking. If you have a choice of medical
practice of consensual homosexual acts, coverage options, the lower value should be
homosexuality is widely condemned by sufficient for Central America. It is also useful
conservative Central American society, to have a policy providing a 24-hour medical
50
 Rough Guides travel insurance
Rough Guides has teamed up with Columbus Direct to offer you travel insurance
that can be tailored to suit your needs. Products include a low-cost backpacker
option for long stays; a short break option for city getaways; a typical holiday
package option; and others. There are also annual multi-trip policies for those who

basics
travel regularly. Different sports and activities (trekking, skiing, etc) can be usually
be covered if required.
See our website (Wwww.roughguides.com/website/shop) for eligibility and
purchasing options. Alternatively, UK residents should call T 0870/033 9988;

T r av el es s en ti al s
Australians should call T1300/669 999 and New Zealanders should call T0800/55
9911. All other nationalities should call T +44 870/890 2843.

emergency number. When securing baggage be worth asking if you are buying a postcard,
cover, make sure that the per-article limit for example, as occasionally souvenir shops
– typically under £500/$1000 – will cover and stationers do stock them). Sending mail
your most valuable possession. If you need from the main post office in any capital city is
to make a claim, you should keep receipts for probably the best way to ensure speedy and
medicines and medical treatment as well as efficient delivery of your mail. The cost and
any high-value items that are being insured. In speed of mailing items varies from country
the event that you have anything stolen, you to country, but is by far cheapest and
must obtain a denuncia from the police. quickest from Panama. To receive mail by
Several companies now offer tailored poste restante you should address it to
“backpacker” insurance, which provides yourself at “Lista de Correos” at the “Correo
low-cost coverage for extended durations Central” in the capital city of the appropriate
(beyond the standard 30-day holiday country. See the relevant guide chapter for
policies). These include Rough Guides own information specific to each country.
recommended insurance (see box above).
Maps
Internet The best overall map of Central America,
Central America is increasingly well covering the region at a scale of 1:1100000,
connected to the internet and you should is produced by Canada’s International Travel
have little difficulty getting online. Even smaller Maps and Books (Wwww.itmb.com). They
towns usually have at least one cybercafé, also publish individual country maps at
often populated by noisy gaming school kids. various scales. Unless you are lucky, maps
Many cybercafés are well equipped with are hard to find once you get to Central
webcams and headphones as well as the America, so it’s wise to bring them with you
facility to download digital photos onto CD. when possible.
On average expect to pay US$1 per hour.
Many hostels also provide internet access, Money
although they may be more restrictive on
Cash payments are the norm in Central
usage and marginally more expensive. Check
America, with the most convenient way to
Wwww.kropla.com for details of how to plug
access money being via an ATM (cajero
your laptop in when abroad.
automático). Most machines accept Visa
and MasterCard credit cards, as well as
Mail Visa debit cards, and are increasingly
With the prevalence of email, the need to widespread throughout the region. However,
negotiate the idiosyncrasies of foreign mail it is always advisable to check specific
systems is thankfully becoming less frequent. destination listings in this guide in advance
Should you wish to investigate, however, of travel to confirm that smaller settlements
you will find that stamps are rarely available have an ATM, as not all do. If you do rely
outside the post office/correo (although it can on ATMs, it’s worth having a back-up card
51
 Exchange Rates
The following exchange rates were correct at the time of publication, though rates
will inevitably vary over the course of the edition of the Guide in those countries
whose currency is not pegged to the dollar; we’ve also given equivalents in British
pounds and euros.
basics

Belize (Belizean dollar; BZ$) US$1 = BZ$2 (fixed)/£1 = BZ$3.9/€1 = BZ$3.1

Costa Rica (colón; c) US$1 = 520.7c/£1 = 1016c/€1 = 807.4c
Guatemala (quetzal; Q) US$1 = Q7.5/£1 = Q14.7/€1 = Q11.7
T r av el es s en ti al s

Honduras (lempira; L) US$1 = L19.4/£1 = L37.9/€1 = 30.2

Nicaragua (córdoba; C$) US$1 = C$19.7/£1 = C$38.3/€1 = C$30.5

in case the first is lost or stolen. If you useful to carry some to exchange at border
plan to be abroad for a significant period, crossings. Generally speaking, you should
it is worth thoroughly researching your also get rid of any remaining unwanted local
bank’s terms for cash withdrawals abroad currency at border crossings, as it will be
– some make no charge at all, allowing you more difficult to exchange the further away
to make frequent withdrawals and carry from the border you are. Try to research
only small amounts of cash around urban the current exchange rates before dealing
areas. As a possible alternative some banks with moneychangers (wwww.oanda
will give cash advances over the counter .com, wwww.xe.com or similar).
(sometimes at a small fee). Try to hoard It is possible to wire money to Central
notes of small denominations; you will America using services such as Western
constantly encounter problems obtaining Union (who charge a percentage) or
change from local businesses, often stalling Moneygram (who charge a flat fee of
transactions as no one has anything smaller approximately US$10). Western Union have
than a US$1 bill (or its equivalent). In branches in major towns, while Moneygram
general, budget-friendly hotels and restau- are an agency represented in many banks
rants do not take credit cards, though a throughout the region.
few mid-range establishments and tourist
handicraft shops may accept them. Travel- Phones
ler’s cheques can be difficult to change It’s easy enough to phone home from
for the same reason, but are good to carry most cities and towns in Central America.
as a back-up, as they are a secure way to Each country in the region has a national
hold money. telecommunications company with offices
Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua throughout the countryside. It’s also worth
and Costa Rica each have their own keeping an eye out for internet cafés that
national currency (see box above), while offer Skype, for excellent-value international
El Salvador and Panama both use the US calls. Mobile phones are as prolific as they
dollar (in Panama the dollar is divided into are in the developed world; despite living
100 balboas – although US cents are also in relative poverty, the rural population
legal tender). However, US dollars are can often be spotted checking their SMS
accepted throughout Central America and messages. You may find that taking your
in many places prices for tourist services own phone comes in useful in emergencies,
(eg, language school fees, plane tickets, but on the other hand, it does become one
tour fees) are quoted exclusively in them. more item to keep secure. Also remember
Indeed, some ATMs (particularly those in that rates to receive calls and messages
Nicaragua) will actually dispense dollars on while abroad are often extortionate. Alter-
request. Local currency is always accepted natively, you may consider purchasing a
at the current exchange rate, though, so phone locally, as packages that include
there is no need to carry huge amounts call-time are reasonable. However, practi-
of dollars in cash, though it is certainly cally speaking, if you only anticipate making
52
 Calling from abroad
To phone abroad from the following countries, you must first dial the international
access code of the country you are calling from, then the country code of the
country you are calling to, then the area code (usually without the first zero) and
then the phone number.

basics
International access codes UK T00
when dialing from: US T011
Australia T0011 Country codes when dialling to:
Belize T 00 Australia T61

T r av el es s en ti al s
Canada T 011 Belize T501
Costa Rica T 00 Canada T1
El Salvador T 00 (144+00 with Costa Rica T506
Telefonica) El Salvador T503
Guatemala T00 (130+00 with Guatemala T502
Telefonica; T147+00 with Telgua) Honduras T504
Honduras T 00 Ireland T 353
Ireland T 00 Nicaragua T505
Nicaragua T 00 New Zealand T64
New Zealand T 00 Panama T507
Panama T 00 (088+00 with Telecarrier; South Africa T27
055+00 with Clarocom) UK T44
South Africa T 00 US T1

the odd call, forget mobile and simply use fixed, simply ask if discounts apply: “Hay
local payphones, which are usually easy to descuentos?”.
come by.
Time
Shopping Panama is GMT-6, all the other countries
Shopping sprees in Central America are are seven hours behind GMT In recent years
basically limited to locations where what’s Central American governments have gone
on offer is either significantly cheaper or back and forth on the issue of whether or not
significantly different to what’s available to apply daylight savings as an energy–saving
back home – places like the Guatemalan measure, and will no doubt continue to so in
highlands, where indigenous handicraft the future.
markets abound, and Panama City, where
glitzy shopping malls offer cut-price designer
Tourist information
clothing and shoes. Throughout the region
you can also buy locally sourced coffee, Official sources of tourist information in Central
thereby supporting local farmers. America are spotty at best. For the budget
In handicraft and local markets haggling is traveller, often the best way to obtain the
standard practice. Try not to get cornered latest advice is to talk to other backpackers
by stall-holders, who will try to pressure you about their experiences. Similarly, popular
into buying on the spot. It is always wise to hostels usually have notice-boards and the
research various sellers’ best prices before best have clued-up staff with local knowledge.
agreeing to a sale. It is also worth scouting All Central American countries do have their
out official tourist shops (where prices are own official tourist information offices, but
fixed) to get a ballpark figure to try and the prevalence of these on the ground is not
beat in markets. If you plan to buy several great. However, the following tourist office
items you will get the best prices if you buy websites provide a useful reference, especially
in bulk from the same seller. Haggling is not for pre-trip planning. See too the “On the net”
commonplace in shops. However, if you boxes in the individual chapters for further
are unsure about whether or not prices are suggestions.
53
 with disabilities, including W www.able-travel
Central American tourist
.com, Wwww.globalaccessnews.com and
office websites Wwww.dptac.gov.uk/door-to-door.

Belize W www.travelbelize.org
Costa Rica W www.tourism-costarica.com Women travellers
basics

El Salvador Wwww.elsalvadorturismo.gob.sv Despite the blatant machismo of Latino

Guatemala W www.visitguatemala.com culture, most female travellers report positive
Honduras Wwww.hondurasinfo.hn experiences in the region. Indeed, several
Nicaragua Wwww.intur.gob.ni will testify that they feel better treated by
Panama W www.panamatravel.com
T r av el es s en ti al s

locals than their fellow male travellers. There

are, however, still precautions to be taken.
Travellers with Women will encounter attention wherever
disabilities they go – this can range from mildly irritating
Central America is not the most accessible whistles to persistent and even forceful
part of the world for travellers with disabili- sexual advances. Golden rules when dealing
ties. On the whole, it’s the top-end hotels with hopeful suitors include staying sober,
and services that may offer equipped facili- stating your intent clearly and loudly and
ties – out of the price range for most budget involving outside parties if you feel uncom-
travellers. However, for the most part, Central fortable. Remember that local women are
American society is community-orientated firm and direct with guys and do not tolerate
and strangers take pleasure in helping and disrespect – you should follow their lead. At
facilitating the passage of others. Costa Rica night, female travellers should try to move
(where tourist facilities are well developed) in groups.
and Panama (where there is a large ex-pat Women travelling as part of a straight
community) have the best infrastructure, couple should be prepared to be invisible in
relative to the rest of the region. many social interactions. Even if the woman is
The best course of action is to plan the only one to speak Spanish, for example,
thoroughly in advance of travel. There are locals will often automatically address their
many specialist websites advising travellers reply to the man’s perceived authority.

54
 Belize

Greece
highlights

xxx
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ZmiZch^kZBVnVh^iZ WZVji^[ja!l]^iZ"hVcY
WZVX]Zh

DAILY BUDGET Basic US$30/ POPULATION 294,000

rough costs

fact file

occasional treat US$60 AREA 22,966 sq km

DRINK Rum (1L) US$9 LANGUAGE English
FOOD Jerk chicken US$4 CURRENCY Belize Dollar (Bz$)
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CAPITAL Belmopan (population:
US$5/US$10–15/US$15–25 15,000)
TRAVEL Belize City–Caye Caulker INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
(35km) by ferry: 45min, US$8; t 501
Belize City–San Ignacio (120km) by TIME ZONE GMT –6hr
bus: 2hr 30min, US$4

55
 Introduction
With far less of a language barrier to overcome than elsewhere
in Central America, Belize, perched on the isthmus’ northeast
corner, is the ideal first stop on a tour of the region. And,
Belize

although it is the most expensive country in Central America, its

reliable public transport and numerous hotels and restaurants
make it an ideal place to travel independently.
Introduction

Belize offers some of the most breath- emphasis on conservation: in the west,
taking scenery anywhere in the region: the dramatic landscape – especially the
thick tropical forests envelop much of tropical forests and cave systems – of
the country’s southern and western the Cayo District provides numerous
regions, stretching up towards the misty opportunities for adventure-seekers.
heights of the sparsely populated Maya Inexpensive San Ignacio, the region’s
Mountains, while just offshore dazzling transportation hub, gives access to the
turquoise shallows and cobalt depths heights of the Mountain Pine Ridge
surround the Mesoamerican Barrier Forest Reserve and the rapids of the
Reef, the longest such reef in the Macal and Mopan rivers. For those with
Americas, as well as the crown jewels in an adventurous spirit of a different sort,
Belize’s natural crown: three of the four hectic Belize City offers a fascinating – if
coral atolls in the Caribbean. nerve-wracking – opportunity to explore
Scattered along the barrier reef, a chain the country’s energetic multicultural
of islands – known as cayes – protect spirit. Dangriga, the main town of the
the mainland from the ocean swell, and south-central region, serves as a jumping-
make wonderful bases for snorkelling off point for the Cockscomb Basin
and diving; the cayes are most travellers’ Wildlife Sanctuary, while the Placencia
top destination in the country. Amber- Peninsula has some of the country’s best
gris Caye and Caye Caulker are the beaches. In the far south, Belize’s most
best known, though many of the less isolated region, the Maya Mountains rise
developed islands, including picture- to over 1100m and border some of the
perfect Tobacco Caye, are gaining in country’s only rainforest. Throughout
popularity. The interior has remained the country, the archeological treasures
relatively untouched, thanks to a national of the ancient Maya dot the landscape.

Chronology
When to visit 200–800 AD Classic period: Maya culture flourishes
The country’s climate is subtropical, throughout Belize.
with temperatures warm throughout 800–900 AD Maya cities across central and
the year, generally 20–27ºC from southern Belize decline, though Lamanai and other
January to May (the dry season) and northern cities continue to thrive throughout the
22–32ºC from June to December Postclassic period (900–1540 AD).
(the wet season). The best time to 1530s The Spanish, led by Francisco de Montejo,
visit the country, therefore, is usually engage in the first of numerous unsuccessful
between January and March, when attempts to conquer the Maya of Belize.
it’s not (quite) as hot or humid. That 1544 Gaspar Pacheco subdues Maya resistance
said, these months are also Belize’s and founds a town on Lake Balcar.
peak tourist season, and prices tend 1570 Spanish mission is established at Lamanai.
to be higher. 1638 The Maya rebel, forcing the Spanish to
abandon the areas they have settled.
56
 1630–1670 British buccaneers, later known as 1798 The British defeat the Spanish in the Battle
Baymen, plunder Spanish treasure ships along the of St George’s Caye, gaining control of the region.
Belizean coast, then begin to settle the coastline 1838 Slavery is abolished.
and harvest logwood, used for textile dyes in 1839 Citing Spanish territorial claims, newly
Europe. They rely heavily on slave labour from independent Guatemala first asserts sovereign
Africa. authority over Belize.
1700s Spain and Britain clash over control of 1847 Mexican refugees fleeing the Caste Wars in

Belize
Belize. In 1763, Spain officially grants British the Yucatán arrive in Belize.
settlers logging rights, but does not abandon territo- 1859 Britain and Guatemala sign a treaty the
rial claims on the region. acknowledges British sovereignty over Belize.
$BODÞO

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 1862 Belize officially becomes a British colony, and
part of the Commonwealth, called British Honduras. land and sea routes
1931 Hurricane floods Belize City and kills several to belize
thousand.
1961 A second hurricane (Hurricane Hattie) devas- Belize has two land border
tates Belize City and kills 262, after which plans are crossings: one from Santa Elena
made to move the country’s capital to Belmopan. to Chetumal, Mexico (see box,
Belize

1964 British Honduras becomes an internally self- p.90), and one from Benque Viejo
governing colony. del Carmen to Melchor de Mencos,
Guatemala (see box, p.101).
1973 British Honduras is renamed Belize
There are also sea routes to Belize
1981 Belize gains independence from Britain,
from Guatemala and Honduras.
Basics

but only after a UN Resolution is passed in its

Daily skiffs travel to and from Punta
favour, and Britain, Guatemala and Belize reach
Gorda, in the far south, and Puerto
an agreement regarding Guatemala’s territorial
Barrios, Guatemala. Dangriga (see
claims.
p.105) and Placencia (see p.110), on
1992 Guatemala recognizes Belize’s independent
the southern coast, are served by at
status.
least one weekly skiff from Puerto
2000 Guatemala reasserts its claim to Belizean
Cortés, Honduras.
territory.
2005 Under the auspices of the Organization of
American States (OAS), Belize and Guatemala writing, this service had been tempo-
agree to establish peaceful negotiations rarily, but indefinitely, discontinued.
concerning the border dispute, though the issue
remains unresolved.
2008 The UDP (United Democratic Party) easily
visas
defeats the PUP (People’s United Party) in the Citizens of Australia, Canada, the EU,
national elections; Dean Barrow replaces Said Musa New Zealand, the UK and the US do
as prime minister. not need visas for stays in Belize of
up to thirty days. Citizens of most
other countries – with the exception of
cruise-ship passengers – must purchase

Basics visas (US$50; valid for up to 90 days)

in advance from a Belizean consulate or
embassy (see p.49 for contact details).

Arrival Getting around

Most travellers from overseas fly Belize only has three major paved
to Belize, arriving at Belize City’s highways (the Northern, Western and
Philip Goldson International Southern), but the majority of the country
Airport (BZE). Virtually all flights is well served by public transport. The
to the country originate in the US; unpaved side roads are sometimes in poor
major operators include American, repair, though they are usually passable
Continental, Delta and US Airways. except in the worst rainstorms.
However, it usually cheaper to fly to
southern Mexico – usually Cancún – By bus
and take a bus into Belize. You can also
enter Belize by land from Guatemala. Buses are the cheapest, and most
However, from southern Guatemala efficient, way to travel in Belize – nearly
or Honduras it is often easier to enter all towns are connected, and the longest
Belize by boat. Local airlines Maya trip in the country (Belize City to
Island Air and Tropic Air operate Punta Gorda; 5–8hr) costs only Bz$25.
daily flights from Flores, Guatemala The main towns are served by fast and
to Belize City, though at the time of comfortable express buses, which stop
58
only at the towns’ terminals. For villages in San Ignacio and Placencia. Though
off the main highways, however, you’ll biking along major highways is
have to rely on slower local services, certainly possible, it is very uncommon,
often with just one bus a day running and drivers will not be watching for
Monday to Saturday only. These buses cyclists; it is therefore important to
are brightly painted, recycled North remain exceptionally alert during

Belize
American school buses, which will the day and to avoid cycling at night.
pick up and drop off anywhere along You’ll find repair shops in all towns.
the roadside. The most frequent One thing to note, however, is that
services operate along the Western and Belizean buses don’t have roof racks, as

Basics
Northern highways, usually from very they do in Guatemala; if there’s room,
early in the morning to mid-evening. the driver might let you take your bike
The Hummingbird and Southern onto the bus.
highways, to Dangriga, Placencia
and Punta Gorda, are not quite so By boat
well provided for, though services are
improving. Tickets are purchased from If you plan on visiting the cayes, you’ll
the conductor. have to travel by boat, which will likely
be a fast skiff, usually partially covered,
By car though sometimes open to the elements
(bring a raincoat). Tickets (usually
In the most remote parts of Belize bus Bz$25–45) cannot be purchased in
services will probably only operate advance for domestic routes, so it’s
once a day, if at all, and unless you worth showing up a half-hour before
have your own transport (expensive), your departure time, though there’s
hitching is the only option. Though usually plenty of room. Numerous
common among locals, it is important skiffs run daily between Belize City,
to remember that this practice is never Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye,
completely safe. Otherwise, the main and also connect Ambergris Caye with
drawback is the shortage of traffic; if Corozal.
cars do pass they’ll usually offer you a
lift, though you may be expected to offer By air
the driver some money in return.
All taxis in Belize are licensed, and Though quite expensive, some budget
can be identified by their green plates. travellers do choose to travel by air, as
They operate from special ranks in the flights are not only much faster than
centre of all mainland towns. There buses, but also connect destinations
are no meters, so establish your fare in unreachable by road. Maya Island
advance; within towns a Bz$6–7 fixed Air (T 223-1140, W www.mayaairways
rate should apply. It is also possible .com) and Tropic Air (T 226-2012,
to negotiate taxi rides between cities, W www.tropicair.com) each operate
though this option can be quite expen- numerous daily flights from the Belize
sive: usually at least US$60–90 per City Municipal Airport to San Pedro,
person for a three-hour ride. Ambergris Caye (20min; US$32) and
Caye Caulker (8min; US$32). Together,
By bike they operate at least ten daily flights
from Belize City to Dangriga (15min;
Cycling can be a great way to reach US$38), Placencia (35min; US$72), and
Belize’s more isolated ruins and towns. Punta Gorda (1hr; US$93) and at least
Bikes are increasingly available for rent five daily flights between San Pedro and
(usually Bz$15–25 per day), especially Corozal (25min; US$41).
59
 Accommodation international options as well – Indian
Belizean accommodation is expensive and Chinese are the most prevalent.
by Central American standards, but The basis of any Creole main meal
there are nonetheless plenty of budget is rice and beans, and this features
hotels in all towns, and the most popular heavily in smaller restaurants, where
tourist destinations – Caye Caulker, San most meals run Bz$6–10. The white
Belize

Ignacio, Placencia – have a great deal rice and red beans are cooked together
of choice and are often less expensive in coconut oil and usually served with
than the rest of the country. Finding stewed chicken or beef, or fried fish;
a room is usually no problem, though there’s always a bottle of hot sauce on
Basics

at Christmas, New Year and Easter the table for extra spice. Seafood is
booking ahead is advisable. almost always excellent. Red snapper or
grouper is invariably fantastic, and you
Hostels are uncommon in Belize,
might also try a barracuda steak, conch
though some dormitory accommo-
fritters or a plate of fresh shrimp. In San
dation (usually US$10–15; 2 –3 ) is
Pedro, Caye Caulker, San Ignacio and
available in Belize City, Caye Caulker,
Placencia the food can be exceptional,
Dangriga, Placencia, San Ignacio and
and the only concern is that you might
San Pedro. Most budget travellers rely
get bored with lobster, which is served
instead on budget hotels, which usually
in a vast array of dishes. The closed
charge US$15–30 (3 –5 ) for a double,
season for lobster (when it should not
depending on the city. Check out
be served) is from mid-February to
Toucan Trail (W www.toucantrail.com),
mid-June.
which lists over 130 good-value places
Breakfast (Bz$4–8) is usually served
to stay for under US$60, for ideas.
from 7am to 10am and will likely include
There are also few proper campsites
eggs and flour tortillas. The lunch hour
in the country, and those that do exist
(noon–1pm) is observed with almost
have only the most basic services. Some
religious devotion – you will not be able
mid-priced hotels in smaller villages
to get anything else done. Dinner is
and on the coast will allow you to pitch
usually eaten quite early, between 6 and
a tent on their grounds, but this can be
8pm; few restaurants stay open much
shockingly expensive, and is impos-
later.
sible in San Pedro. In order to camp
Vegetables are scarce in Creole food,
in any protected area, you’ll have to
but there’s often a side dish of potato
get permission from park authorities –
or coleslaw. There are few specifically
except at the entrances to the Mountain
vegetarian restaurants, but in well-
Pine Ridge Forest Reserve and the
touristed areas many places offer a
Jaguar Reserve, where reservations
couple of vegetarian dishes. Other-
usually are not necessary. In the south,
wise, you’re likely to be offered chicken
a tent is handy if you plan on spending
or ham even if you say you don’t eat
time wandering inland around the
meat. Your best bet for a vegetarian
Maya villages and ancient sites.
meal outside the main tourist areas
See p.35 for an explanation of the
may well be one of Belize’s many
accommodation price codes used in
Chinese restaurants.
this guide.

Food and drink Drink

Belizean food is a mix of Latin The most basic drinks to accompany
American and Caribbean, with Creole food are water, beer and the usual
flavours dominating the scene in local soft drinks. Tap water, in the towns
restaurants, but with a number of at least, is safe but highly chlorinated,
60
and many villages (though not Caye
Caulker) have a potable water system. kriol words
Many travellers nonetheless choose to and phrases
purchase filtered bottled water, which
Good morning Gud maanin
is sold everywhere for around Bz$2
What’s up? Weh di go aan?
per bottle. Belikin, Belize’s main beer,
What’s your name? Weh yu naym?

Belize
comes in several varieties: regular, a
My name is … Mee naym …
lager-type bottled and draught beer;
How are you? Da how yu di du?
bottled stout; and Lighthouse and
Fine Aarait.
Premium, more expensive bottled

Basics
brews. Cashew-nut and berry wines What time is it? Weh taim yu gat?
are bottled and sold in some villages, How much does this cost?
Humoch dis kaas?
and you can also get hold of imported
I don’t understand Mee noh
wine, though it’s not cheap. Local rum,
andastan.
in both dark and clear varieties, is the
I don’t know Mee noh know.
best deal in Belizean alcohol. The legal
Where am I? Weh I deh?
drinking age for alcohol in Belize
It doesn’t matter Ih noh mata.
is 18.
Despite the number of citrus planta-
tions, fruit juices are rarely available, while flashing a quick smile and wave
though you can usually get very good usually gets the message across, while
fresh orange juice and sometimes remaining polite.
pineapple. Coffee, except in the best Belizeans are not particularly
establishments, will almost certainly accepting of homosexuality and rarely
be instant, though decent tea is quite open about sexual orientation. Though
prevalent. One last drink that deserves it is unlikely that locals will express
a mention is seaweed, a strange disapproval, it is a good idea to avoid
blend of seaweed, milk, cinnamon, public displays of affection. There are
sugar and cream. no gay venues in the country.
Belizeans rarely tip, though foreigners
Culture and are usually expected to give around
etiquette ten percent in taxis and in restaurants.
Belizeans are generally welcoming Haggling is also uncommon in Belize
and accustomed to tourists, though it’s and will likely be considered rude,
important to remember that the country except at street markets.
is, on the whole, quite conservative.
Dress, except among professionals,
Sports and outdoor
is usually casual, though tourists – activities
especially women – who wear revealing Football (soccer) and basketball are
clothing will probably be looked down very popular in Belize, though the
upon, particularly in the country’s many country’s size and resources limit teams
churches. to the semi-professional level, and
The country’s laid-back attitude visitors will find few spectator events.
usually carries over into conversation; However, Belize is a haven for a wide
when approaching Belizeans, it’s best to range of outdoor activities. Many
be friendly, relaxed and patient. Women travellers will participate in some form
travellers may receive advances from of water sports, including snorkel-
local men. Ignoring such attentions ling, diving, windsurfing, kayaking
completely will sometimes only be met and sailing. Companies in San Pedro,
by greater persistence; walking away Caye Caulker, and Placencia offer
61
 diving courses and lead multi-day service, available at BTL offices, most
kayaking and sailing trips to the cayes. payphones and larger hotels – simply
See p.78, p.74 and p.108, respectively, dial the access code (printed on some
for information about local opera- payphones and in the phone book) to
tors. Inland, canoeing and rafting are connect with an operator in your home
popular, particularly out west in the country. Mobile phones are becoming
Belize

Cayo district. Also in this region, opera- quite common in Belize, and almost all
tors organize hiking trips through the of the country receives excellent service.
local jungle and Mountain Pine Ridge North Americans can usually connect to
Forest, as well as horseriding to Maya local systems with their regular service,
Basics

ruins and natural sights. Stunning cave albeit at very high roaming charges.
systems dot the south and west and Alternatively, BTL sells SIM cards to
spelunking tours are becoming more visitors with compatible international
widespread and popular. See p.95 for phones and can usually help find rental
operator listings in San Ignacio. mobile phones for around Bz$20 a day.
Belizeans are also avid users of the
Communications internet, and web access is readily
Though more efficient (and expen- available in all the main towns and for
sive) than the rest of Central America, guests at many hotels, though it can be
Belizean postal services can still be quite expensive in touristed areas – up
unreliable. Most towns have post offices, to Bz$12 an hour.
usually open Monday to Thursday 8am
to 4pm and Friday 8am to 5pm. Sending Crime and safety
letters, cards and parcels home is Though Belize does have a relatively high
straightforward: a normal airmail letter crime rate, general crime against tourists
takes around four days to reach the US is rare, especially in comparison to other
(Bz$0.60), eight to Europe (Bz$0.80) Central American countries, and violent
and two weeks to Australia (Bz$1). crime against tourists is seldom experi-
Belize has a modern phone system, enced, even in Belize City. It is important
with payphones plentiful throughout to note, however, that several attacks on
the country. Payphones can only be tourist groups have occurred in recent
used with phonecards, which are widely years near the Guatemalan border,
available from BTL (Belize Telecom- though most tour operators now take
munications Limited) offices, as well as precautions to prevent this. Elsewhere in
hotels, shops and gas stations. There are the country, theft does occur, the majority
no area codes in Belize; so you need to of cases involving break-ins at hotels:
dial all seven digits. Calling home collect bear this in mind when you’re searching
is easy using the Home Country Direct for a room. Out and about there’s always

Belize on the net

W www.belizeaudubon.org The latest information on Belize’s growing number of
reserves, national parks and associated visitor centres.
W www.belizefirst.com Online magazine dedicated to Belize, featuring accurate
reviews and articles about hotels, restaurants and destinations.
W www.belizenet.com Excellent website with numerous links to tourism-related
websites.
W www.spear.org.bz In-depth information on social, cultural, political and
economic matters concerning Belize.
W www.travelbelize.org Belize’s official tourism website offers excellent advice on
travelling in Belize and can even help book accommodation and tours.
62
a slight danger of pickpockets, but with private physicians (see p.74). All other
a bit of common sense you’ve nothing large towns have well-stocked pharma-
to fear. Verbal abuse is not uncommon, cies and clinics, which are usually free,
especially in Belize City. The vast though many will expect a donation for
majority of this harassment is harmless, their services.
though the situation can be more threat-

Belize
ening for women travelling alone; most Information and maps
hecklers, however, will be satisfied with Information on travelling in Belize
a smile and wave as you move quickly is abundant, though often only avail-
onwards. When making new acquaint- able online, as even some major towns

Basics
ances, women travellers should also keep (except Belize City, Punta Gorda,
in mind that there have been reports of Placencia and San Pedro) don’t have a
incidences involving date-rape drugs in local tourist information centre. The
Belize, and should not accept food or office of the country’s official source of
drink from strangers. If you do need to tourist information, the Belize Tourism
report a crime, your first stop should Board (BTB; T 227-2420, W www
be the newly appointed tourism police, .travelbelize.org), is in Belize City and
ubiquitous in Belize City and becoming is not particularly helpful, though the
more common in many tourist hotspots, Board’s website is excellent. The Belize
including Caye Caulker, Ambergris Caye Tourism Industry Association (BTIA;
and Placencia. W www.btia.org), which regulates many
Many of the country’s violent crimes of the country’s tourism businesses,
are related to the drug trade, of which has helpful representatives in touristed
Belize is an important link in the chain areas.
between South and North America. Local maps can be difficult to find and
Marijuana, cocaine and crack are all are often non-existent in smaller towns
readily available, and whether you like and villages (where most streets won’t
it or not you’ll receive regular offers. All have names), though the better hotels
such substances are illegal, and despite will usually be able to provide them to
the fact that dope is smoked openly in guests.
the streets, the police do arrest people
for possession of marijuana – they Money and banks
particularly enjoy catching tourists. If
The national currency is the Belize
you are arrested you’ll probably spend
dollar, which is divided into 100 cents
a couple of days in jail and pay a fine of
and fixed at two to one with the US
several hundred US dollars: expect no
dollar (US$1=Bz$2); US dollars are also
sympathy from your embassy.
widely accepted (sometimes preferred),
either in cash or traveller’s cheques. On
Medical care and
account of this dual-currency system,
emergencies always check whether the price you
Health standards in Belize are quite are quoted is in Belizean or US dollars;
high for the region, and Belize City we have noted prices in local currency
has hospitals as well as a number of unless an operation has specifically
quoted their fees in US dollars.
Credit and debit cards are widely used
emergency numbers in Belize and are increasingly accepted,
Emergency T90 or 911 even in smaller hotels and restaurants.
Tourist police (in Belize City) Visa is the best option, though many
T 227-2222 establishments also accept MasterCard.
Before you pay, check if there’s a charge
63
 for using plastic, as you might have to
pay an extra five or seven percent for the Public holidays
privilege. Any bank can give you a Visa/ January 1 New Year’s Day
MasterCard cash advance, but Atlantic March 9 Baron Bliss Day
Bank, Belize Bank and First Caribbean March/April (variable) Good Friday,
Bank are the only banks with ATMs that Holy Saturday, Easter Monday
Belize

accept foreign-issued cards. May 1 Labour Day

Taxes in Belize are quite high; both May 24 Commonwealth Day
the sales tax and hotel tax are 9 percent. September 10 St George’s Caye
Leaving Belize, you’ll have to pay a Day/National Day
Basics

US$15 exit tax, plus a PACT conserva- September 21 Independence Day

tion fee of US$3.75; add US$15 if you October 12 Columbus Day (Pan
are flying out of the country. America Day)
You’ll find at least one bank in every November 19 Garífuna Settlement
town. Although the exchange rate is Day
fixed, banks in Belize will give slightly December 25 Christmas Day
less than Bz$2 for US$1 for both cash December 26 Boxing Day
and traveller’s cheques, so it can be a
good idea simply to pay in US dollars if
they are accepted and if you have them. above, though note that if the holiday
Other than banks, only licensed casas falls mid-week, it is observed on the
de cambio, which can be difficult to following Monday.
find, are allowed to exchange currency,
though there’s usually a shop where Festivals
locals go. To buy US dollars, you’ll have
Belize’s calendar is full of festivals,
to show an onward ticket.
ranging from the local to the national.
The calendar below only includes a few
Opening hours and
highlights – you’ll find plenty of enter-
holidays tainment at any given time.
It’s difficult to be specific about February Carnival is celebrated with dancing,
opening hours in Belize but in general parades, costumes and drinking.
most shops are open 8am to noon and March Celebrations throughout the country in
honour of Baron Bliss Day (March 9); La Ruta Maya
1pm to 5pm. The lunch hour (noon–
River Challenge in San Ignacio.
1pm) is almost universally observed. April Fiesta in San Jose Succotz honouring the
Some shops and businesses work a village’s patron saint.
half-day on Saturday, and everything May Cashew Festival in Crooked Tree; Toledo
is liable to close early on Friday. Banks Cacao-Fest in Punta Gorda; National Agriculture and
(generally Mon–Thurs 8am–2pm, Fri Trade Show in Belmopan.
8am–4pm) and government offices are June Coconut Festival in Caye Caulker; three-day
only open Monday to Friday. Watch Día de San Pedro festival in San Pedro; Placencia
out for Sundays, too, when shops and Lobster Festival.
restaurants outside tourist areas are July Caye Caulker Lobster Fest.
August Week-long Deer Dance Festival in San
likely to be closed, and fewer bus
Antonio; Costa Maya festival in San Pedro.
services and internal flights operate. September Celebrations commemorating St
Archeological sites, however, are George’s Caye Day and Independence Day.
open every day. The main public November Garífuna Settlement Day (Nov 19) is the
holidays, when virtually everything most important day on the Garífuna calendar (see
will be closed, are listed in the box box, p.103).

64
Belize City
to the most expensive hotels. South
of the Swing Bridge is the market and
commercial zone, home to the city’s
Even to the most jaded cosmopolite banks and a couple of supermarkets. It’s
BELIZE CITY – the country’s largest all compact enough that walking is the
city, though not the capital – can be a easiest way to get around.

Belize
daunting place. Dilapidated wooden
buildings stand right on the edge of Image Factory
the road, offering pedestrians little The Image Factory, north of the Swing
refuge from the ever-increasing traffic, Bridge at 91 N Front St (Mon–Fri 9am–

Belize City
and local attention ranges from simple 5pm; free, but donations welcome;
curiosity and good-natured joking to T 223-4093, W www.imagefactory.bz),
outright heckling. Still, travellers who hosts displays by Belize’s hottest contem-
approach the city with an open mind porary artists. The gallery holds
– and those who are willing to spend outstanding, frequently provocative
more than a few hours here – may exhibitions, and you often get a chance to
actually enjoy themselves. The streets, chat with the artists themselves.
which certainly are chaotic, buzz with
energy, the result of the diversity of the Tourism Village
city’s 75,000 citizens. And the city is, Continuing east along North Front
without a doubt, an experience; those Street, you’ll encounter an advance
who manage to feel comfortable here guard of trinket sellers, street
should have no problems anywhere else musicians, hustlers and hair-braiders,
in the country. announcing you’re near Tourism
Village, Belize’s cruise ship terminal.
What to see and do The Village itself is little more than a
dock for the boats to disembark their
Belize City is divided into northern and passengers, and an attached shopping
southern halves by Haulover Creek, a mall. Across the street, the Fort Street
branch of the Belize River. The pivotal Plaza serves as an extension of the
(literally) point of the city centre is Village and includes a restaurant, bar
the manually operated Swing Bridge, and additional shops. A number of
always crawling with traffic and opened temporary vendors line the streets in
twice a day (5.30am & 5.30pm) to this area, though the items tend to be
allow larger vessels up and down the overpriced; you’re better off buying
river. North of the bridge is the slightly souvenirs in town or at the National
more upmarket part of town, home Handicraft Center (see p.71).

safety in belize city

Walking in Belize City in daylight is perfectly safe if you use common sense: be
civil, don’t provoke trouble by arguing too forcefully and never show large sums
of money on the street. Women should dress conservatively: female travellers,
especially those wearing short shorts or skirts, will likely attract mild verbal
harassment from local men. However, the presence of a specially trained tourism
police (T 227-2222), together with the legal requirement that all tour guides be
licensed, generally prevent serious crime.
The chances of being mugged do increase after dark, but you’ll find that you can
walk – with others – around the centre in relative safety; you’ll certainly encounter
tourism police in this area. If you’re venturing further afield, or if you’ve just arrived
by bus at night, travel by taxi.
65
 66
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(*-- Belize City Belize

67
 The seafront thoroughfare, lined with banks and
Beyond the Tourism Village, the road souvenir shops. On the parallel Regent
follows the north shore of the river Street are several former colonial
mouth, reaching the Fort George administration and court build-
Lighthouse, which marks the tomb of ings, collectively known as the Court
Baron Bliss, Belize’s greatest benefactor. House. Completed in 1926, these
Belize

On the seafront itself, Memorial Park well-preserved examples of colonial

honours the Belizean dead of the world architecture, with columns and fine
wars, and in the streets around the park wrought iron, overlook Battlefield
you’ll find several colonial mansions, Park (named to commemorate the
Belize City

many of the best preserved now taken noisy political meetings that took place
over by upmarket hotels. At the corner here before independence), really a
of Hutson Street and Gabourel Lane patch of grass and trees with a dry
a block from the sea is the former US ornamental fountain in the centre.
Embassy: a superb “colonial” building
actually constructed in New England in Bliss Centre for the
the nineteenth century then dismantled Performing Arts
and shipped to Belize. A block behind the Court House, on
the waterfront at 2 Southern Foreshore,
Museum of Belize the Bliss Centre for the Performing
At the end of Queen Street, in front of Arts (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; free;
the Central Bank building, the city’s T 227-2110) hosts exhibitions of local
former colonial prison, built in 1857, artwork and has a 600-seat auditorium.
has undergone a remarkable trans- Performances usually showcase local
formation to become the Museum of talent, including children’s groups,
Belize (Mon–Thurs 8.30am–5pm, Fri solo acts and Garífuna dancers and
8.30am–4.30pm; Bz$10; T 223-4524). drummers. Call or stop by for details
The lower floor, with exposed brickwork of performances.
and barred windows, recalls the struc-
ture’s original purpose and includes
Baron bliss
a reconstruction of a cell as well as a Throughout Belize you’ll find places
small exhibition on the jail’s former bearing the name of Baron Bliss,
occupants. The majority of the floor, an eccentric Englishman with a
however, is devoted to photographs and Portuguese title. A keen fisherman,
artefacts chronicling the city’s history. he arrived off the coast of Belize
Though these are quite interesting, the in 1926 after hearing that the
star attractions are actually upstairs, in local waters were rich with game.
the Maya Masterpieces gallery: a first- Unfortunately, he became ill and
died without ever making it ashore.
class collection of the best of Belize’s
Despite this, he left most of his
Maya artefacts, including some of the considerable estate to the colony
finest painted Maya ceramics anywhere. and, in gratitude, the authorities
This floor also includes an exhibit on the declared March 9, the date of his
jades of Belize, including a replica of the death, Baron Bliss Day.
famous Jade Head from Altun Ha (see
p.83), as well as masks, pendants and
necklaces. St John’s Cathedral
At the end of Albert Street is St John’s
Albert and Regent streets Cathedral (daily 6am–6pm; free), the
South of the Swing Bridge, Albert oldest Anglican cathedral in Central
Street is Belize City’s main commercial America and one of the oldest remaining
68
buildings in Belize. Begun in 1812, its they can also recommend tour guides for nearby
red bricks were brought over as ballast sights. Inside the Marine Terminal, the Kaisa
in British ships – it does look more like International shop has reliable information on
bus and boat schedules, and sells tickets for the
a large English parish church than most
express buses to Chetumal, Flores and
of the other buildings here. Guatemala City.

Belize
House of Culture
City transport
East of the cathedral, on the seafront, the
renovated former Government House, Walking The best way to get around Belize City’s
now renamed the House of Culture compact centre is on foot; even going from one side

Belize City
(Mon–Sat 8.30am–4.30pm; Bz$10), is to the other should only take around 15min. Buses
one of the most beautiful spots in Belize do not operate within the centre, running only to the
city’s outskirts, and are, therefore, unnecessary for
City, with its manicured lawns and sea
most visitors.
views. Built in 1814, the structure served Taxis Identified by green licence plates, taxis
as the British governor’s residence until charge Bz$5–7 for one or two passengers within
Belizean independence in 1981. The the city limits.
main room downstairs exhibits the
possessions of former governors as well Accommodation
as colonial silverware, glasses and furni-
ture; temporary historical and cultural Accommodation in Belize City is generally more
exhibitions are also on this floor. expensive than elsewhere in the country, so prices
Upstairs are rooms for painting, dance for even budget rooms can come as quite a shock.
There’s usually no need to book in advance unless
and drumming workshops, art exhibits
you’re eager to stay in a particular hotel – you’ll
and musical performances. always be able to get something in the price range
you’re looking for. Keep in mind, however, that the
Arrival and information further south and west you go, the more dangerous
the area becomes; if you are travelling alone you
By air International flights land at Phillip Goldson may want to stay north of the river near Queen
International Airport, 17km northwest of the city. Street, the city’s most populated area.
Taxis are the only way to get into town (with the
exception of hitchhiking); they cost Bz$50. There’s North of the river
a branch of the Belize Bank (with ATM) in the Barrack Road Guest House 8 Barrack Rd T624-
terminal. Domestic flights come and go from the 8786. Set back from the road down a winding alley,
municipal airport, a few kilometres north of town this basic guesthouse offers decent, if somewhat
on the edge of the sea; taxis from here to the city shabby, rooms with private baths and fans. 2 .
centre charge Bz$8. Freddie’s Guest House 86 Eve St, on the city’s
By boat Boats to and from the cayes pull in at edge near the waterfront T 233-3851. Three clean
either the Marine Terminal on the north side of and comfortable fan-cooled rooms, one with private
the Swing Bridge or at Courthouse Wharf on the bath. 4
south side. Ma Ma Chen 7 Eve St, near the end of Queen St
By bus Bus services terminate at various points T223-1913. A Taiwanese couple runs this quiet,
throughout the city centre, but all buses will stop simple guesthouse/restaurant. Very basic rooms
– at least briefly – at the main bus terminal at 19 (some with a/c and private bath) line a hallway in
West Collet Canal (T 227-2255), which is in a the family home. 5
fairly derelict area on the western side of the city. North Front Street Guest House 124 North Front
It’s only 1km or so from the centre, so you can St, two blocks from Marine Terminal T227-7595,
walk to any of the recommended hotels, but take [email protected]. Rooms in this budget travellers’
a taxi at night. favourite are small and basic but clean; all share
Tourist information The Belize Tourism Board cold-water showers. 3
(BTB; Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; t 223-1913) is on the Three Sisters Guest House 36 Queen St T203-
corner of Regent and South streets. Visiting here 5729. Large, clean rooms (one with private bath) in
is not particularly helpful, but the office does a wooden building run by a friendly, mainly Spanish-
hand out city maps, hotel guides and brochures; speaking family. Single 3, doubles 5
69
 South of the river a genuine café atmosphere. Good coffee and baked
Belcove Hotel 9 Regent St West T227-3054, treats, including croissants, for Bz$2–6.
W www.belcove.com. Basic, very clean rooms, Ma Ma Chen 7 Eve St T223-4568. Simple restau-
some with a/c and private bath. Although it’s on the rant with tasty Taiwanese fare, including spring rolls
edge of the dangerous part of town, the hotel itself for Bz$6 and other vegetarian dishes for Bz$8. See
is quite safe. Singles 4 , doubles 5 –7 p.69 for the adjoining guesthouse.
Bellevue Hotel 5 Southern Foreshore T 227- Moon Clusters Coffee 36 Daly St. One of the only
Belize

7051, E [email protected]. Large hotel directly on true coffee shops in Belize City. Relax in the bright
the seafront with both renovated and unrenovated and quirky interior with an excellent cup for Bz$5 or
rooms, all with private baths and some with a coffee drink for Bz$8.
a/c. The courtyard contains a pool and bar, and Nerie’s Restaurant II At the corner of Queen
Belize City

there’s a bar and disco that open sporadically on and Daly sts T223-4028. Great Belizean food at
weekends. 6 –7 reasonable prices: main dishes run from Bz$5 for
Caribbean Palms Inn 26 Regent St, at the corner rice and beans to Bz$12 for fish. The conch soup is
with King St T227-0472, [email protected]. a meal in itself.
Somewhat large hotel where a/c rooms all have Wet Lizard Fort St, next to the Tourism Village
private baths and some have TVs. Meals can be T203-0400. Great views overlooking the sea make
arranged, and there’s internet access and laundry for a tourist-dominated clientele. The diverse menu
service. One shared budget room (Bz$36 per includes tangy spring rolls, Thai and Mexican speci-
person). 6 –8 alities and seafood. Main dishes Bz$10–20. Open
Hotel Mopan 55 Regent St T227-7351, only when cruise ships are in.
W www.hotelmopan.com. Wood-fronted
building with recently renovated rooms, all with South of the river
private bath and some with a/c, TV and balcony. Big Daddy’s Diner Upstairs in the market building;
Restaurant serves good-value breakfasts (other follow the signs. Excellent breakfasts and Belizean
meals can be ordered) and internet access for dishes, with a daily lunch special (usually fish) for
guests is Bz$8/hr. 5 –6 Bz$12, served cafeteria-style.
Isabel Guest House 3 Albert St, 2nd floor T 207- El Centro 4 Bishop St T227-2013. For those who
3139. Follow the signs from the Swing Bridge to need a break from rice and beans, this large restau-
this small guesthouse offering large rooms with rant serves a variety of fried foods and burgers at
private baths and small refrigerators. Singles 5 , lunch (Bz$5–10) and chicken and steak dishes at
doubles 5 dinner (Bz$12–20).
Seaside Guest House 3 Prince St, half a block Dit’s Restaurant 50 King St. A variety of Belizean
from the Southern Foreshore T 227-8339, and Mexican snacks (Bz$3–10) in a no-frills atmos-
E [email protected]. Clean, social, very phere. A great place for dessert, as well as a filling
safe hotel. Rooms, including dorm beds (Bz$40 breakfast.
per person), are expensive but worth it for the Jambel’s Jerk Pit 2B King St T 227-6080. Very
services: internet access for Bz$10/hr, good tasty Jamaican-influenced and Belizean dishes.
tourist information and a balcony facing the sea. Specialities include the obvious jerk chicken, but
Breakfast is available, and other meals can be also delicious, spicy seafood dishes such as jerk
arranged. Dorms 4 , singles 4 , doubles 6 lobster. Main dishes Bz$10–24.
Macy’s 18 Bishop St T207-3410. Long-established,
reasonably priced Creole restaurant popular with
Eating
locals and busy at lunchtime. The menu includes a
Belize City’s selection of restaurants is quite varied, variety of fish, including whole sea bass, and game
though simple Creole fare (rice and beans) still dishes for Bz$8–18.
predominates at the lower end of the price scale. Marlin’s 11 Regent St West, next to the
Be warned that many restaurants close early in the Belcove Hotel. Great, inexpensive local food
evening and on Sundays. The city’s largest super- served in large portions on a veranda overlooking
markets, Romac’s and Brodie’s, are on Albert Street, the river. Traditional rice and beans, soups or break-
and are quite expensive, as most of the selection fasts Bz$5–8.
is imported.
Drinking and nightlife
North of the river
Le Petit Café Cork St, at the Radisson Hotel. Belize City’s nightlife really comes into its own on
Outdoor tables make Le Petit a great place to enjoy Fridays and Saturdays; any other night of the week,
70
you’ll likely find the city deserted after 9pm, with including classical concerts, in its intimate upstairs
only a few hard-drinking (and often rowdy) locals rooms. Both venues are affordable (shows range from
frequenting the bars that are open. On weekends, free to Bz$30), but shows can be sporadic.
however, there are plenty of venues around, playing
everything from techno to Latin grooves to punta, Shopping
soca and reggae, though even then don’t arrive
much before midnight, or you’ll find many places Books Book Center, 2 Church St (Mon–Sat

Belize
empty. A relatively safe area of town with a variety 8.30am–noon & 1.30–5.30pm; T 227-7457), and
of bars/clubs is the strip of Barracks Newtown Road Angelus Press, 10 Queen St (Mon–Fri 7.30am–
from the Princess Hotel (T223-0638, Wwww 5.30pm, Sat 8am–noon; T 223-5777), have a wide
.princessbelize.com) to Caesar’s Palace bar. range of Belize-related books and maps.

Belize City
Crafts and souvenirs For items like T-shirts,
Bars shells, wooden carvings and beaded jewellery,
La Bodega Lounge Upstairs from Nerie’s head to the Tourism Village (see p.65); Sing’s, 35
Restaurant, at the corner of Queen and Daly Albert St; or the National Handicraft Center, 2 South
sts. Hosts a popular karaoke night on Fri and Park St (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–4pm), which
Caribbean music on Sat. sells high-quality Belizean arts and crafts at fair
Iguana Rana In the Tourism Village. Most of the prices. The shop at the Image Factory (see p.65)
time a relaxed bar frequented by tourists, but on Fri also offers good souvenirs, books and local art.
nights locals take over to dance and sip cocktails Pharmacies and supermarkets Albert St, south
next to the sea. of the Swing Bridge, is the city’s central commercial
Nu Fenders Bar At the corner of Queen and Daly district. A number of pharmacies and supermarkets
sts, opposite Nerie’s. A relatively tame place to line the street, as well as a department store,
catch a drink with the locals almost any night of the Brodie’s.
week, though it’s packed and rowdy on weekends.
Riverside Patio Regent St, next to the market
building. Come here to have a beer with hard-drinking
Directory
locals and watch the sun go down. Closes at 7pm. Consulates Current addresses and phone numbers
can be found under “Diplomatic Listings” in the
Clubs green pages of the telephone directory: Canada
Caesar’s Palace Newtown Barracks Rd, across T223-1060; Guatemala T223-3150; Honduras
from BTL Park. An energetic crowd comes here to T224-5889; Mexico T223-0193. Most are
dance to Latin, techno and reggae beats here after normally open Mon–Fri mornings. The US embassy
10pm on Fri and Sat. (T822-4011) and British High Commission
Club Next In the Princess Hotel. A lively local (T822-2146) are in Belmopan (see p.92).
favourite. DJs play a variety of music and the Exchange The main banks have branches on
dancefloor is packed late on Fri and Sat nights. Albert St (usually Mon–Thurs 8am–2pm, Fri 8am–
Bz$15 cover. 4.30pm). Only the Belize and First Caribbean banks
have ATMs that accept foreign-issued cards; others
Entertainment will process cash advances over the counter. For
Guatemalan quetzales and Mexican pesos try Kaisa
Bowling The Princess Hotel, on Newtown Barracks International in the Marine Terminal.
Rd, has a few lanes. There’s also pool tables and Immigration In the Government Complex on
an arcade. Mahogany St, near the junction of Central American
Casino At the Princess Hotel, on Newtown Barracks Blvd and the Western Highway (Mon–Thurs
Rd. Open daily noon–4pm, with a Bz$50 minimum. 8.30am–4pm, Fri 8.30am–3.30pm; T 222-4620).
Cinema At the Princess Hotel, on Newtown Thirty-day extensions of stay (the maximum
Barracks Rd. The only cinema in the city, it has one allowed) cost US$12.50.
showing nightly of a recent Hollywood blockbuster. Internet Two centrally located establishments are
It is also the venue for Belize’s Film Festival, held Angelus Press (see above; Bz$3/hr) and Belize
annually in March. Photo Lab (see p.000; Bz$4/hr). Many hotels now
Performing arts The cultural centre of Belize is the offer internet access to guests as well.
Bliss Centre for the Performing Arts (see p.68), which Laundry G’s Laundromat, 22 Dean St (daily
stages a variety of events – everything from plays to 7.30am–6.30pm). Bz$5 wash, Bz$5 dry.
concerts – in a 600-seat auditorium. The House of Medical care Dr Gamero, Myo-On Clinic, 40 Eve
Culture (see p.69) also hosts exhibitions and events, St (T224-5616); Karl Huesner Memorial Hospital,
71
 Princess Margaret Drive, near the junction with the Bus destinations
Northern Highway (T223-1548). Belmopan With NTSL, JA, WT, ST. Departures
Police The main police station is on Queen St, a hourly 5am–9pm (express); 1hr 15min.
block north of the Swing Bridge (T 227-2210). Benque Viejo del Carmen With NTSL. Departures
Alternatively, contact the Tourism Police (see hourly 5am–9pm (express); 3hr 30min (for the
box, p.65). Guatemalan border).
Post office North Front St, opposite the Marine Bermudian Landing With MF, RU. Departures
Belize

Terminal (Mon–Thur 8am–4.30pm, Fri 8am-5pm). Mon–Sat noon, 4.30pm & 5.30pm; 1hr 15min.
Telephones There are payphones (operated using Chetumal, Mexico With NTSL. Departures hourly
pre-paid cards) dotted all around the city, or visit 5am–7pm (express); 3hr 30min.
the main BTL office, 1 Church St (Mon–Sat 8am– Corozal With NTSL. Departures hourly 5am–7pm
The cayes and atolls

6pm), which also has fax and email services. (express); 2hr 30min.
Crooked Tree With JX. Departures Mon–Sat
Moving on 10.55am & 4.30pm; 1hr 30min.
Dangriga With JA, NTSL. Twelve departures daily
Some travellers do leave Belize City via boat or 6am–5pm (express); 2hr via Coastal Rd, 3hr 30min
plane, but buses are by far the most common and via Belmopan.
cheapest way to move around the country. Gales Point With NTSL. Two departures weekly;
1hr 40min.
By bus Orange Walk With NTSL. Departures hourly
Belize’s main bus company is National Transport 5am–7pm (express); 1hr 30min.
Services Limited (NTSL), although the company’s Placencia With JA, NTSL. Four departures daily, via
original name – Novelo’s – still appears on some Belmopan and Dangriga; 5–7hr.
signs. Other, smaller companies also serve specific Punta Gorda With JA, ST. Twelve departures daily,
destinations. Most buses depart from the terminal all via Belmopan and Dangriga (express); 5–8hr.
at 19 West Collet Canal (T227-2255), but many San Ignacio With NTSL. Departures hourly 5am–
companies maintain independent stops in the streets 9pm, via Belmopan; 2hr 30min.
nearby. Services operate seven days a week, though Sarteneja With PE, SC. Three departures daily
departure times may be erratic on Sun. (10:30am, noon, 5pm), Mon–Sat only. The 10:30am
and noon are with SC, the 5pm with PE.
Bus companies and stops
James Bus (JA) Departs for Dangriga and Punta
Other transport
Gorda (via Belmopan) from the Shell station,
By air Domestic flights (see p.59) to all main towns
Cemetery Rd, near the bus terminal. Information on
leave from the Municipal Airport.
T 702-2049.
By boat Skiffs to Caye Caulker (45min) and
Jex Bus (JX) Departs for Crooked Tree from Regent
Ambergris Caye (75min) are operated by the Caye
St West (Mon–Sat 10.55am) and Pound Yard, Collet
Caulker Water Taxi Association (T223-5752,
Canal (Mon–Fri 4.30pm). Information on T225-7017.
W www.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com) and depart
McFadzean’s Bus (MF) Departs for Bermudian
from the Marine Terminal at least every 90min
Landing (via Burrell Boom) from Euphrates Ave, off
from 8am to 4pm daily. Triple J’s runs slightly
Orange St, near the main bus depot.
cheaper boats to Caye Caulker from Courthouse
NTSL All services depart from the terminal. Infor-
Wharf, on the south side of the Swing Bridge.
mation on T227-6372.
Perez Bus (PE) Departs for Sarteneja from North
Front St (5pm).
Russell’s Bus (RU) Departs for Bermudian
Landing from Cairo St, near the corner of Cemetery
Rd and Euphrates Ave. The cayes and
atolls
Sarteneja Bus Company (SC) Departs for
Sarteneja from the south side of the Swing Bridge.
Southern Transport (ST) Departs for the
Hummingbird and Southern highways from the
terminal. Information on T502-2160.
Belize’s spectacular Barrier Reef, with its
Western Transport (WT) Departs for the Western dazzling variety of underwater life, string
Highway from the terminal. Information on of exquisite cayes (pronounced “keys”)
T 227-1160. and extensive opportunities for all kinds
72
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of water sports, is the country’s main one dominated by tourism. There are still
attraction for most first-time visitors. some beautiful spots though, notably the
The longest barrier reef in the western protected sections of reef at either end of
hemisphere, it runs the entire length of the caye: Bacalar Chico National Park
the coastline, usually 15 to 40km from and Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
the mainland, with most of the cayes Beyond the barrier reef are two of
lying in shallow water behind the shelter Belize’s three atolls, the Turneffe Islands
of the reef. Caye Caulker is the most and Lighthouse Reef, regularly visited
popular destination for budget travellers. on day-trips from San Pedro and Caye
The town of San Pedro on Ambergris Caulker. Lighthouse Reef encompasses
Caye, meanwhile, has transformed from two of the most spectacular diving and
a predominantly fishing community to snorkelling sites in the country – Half
73
 Safeguarding the coral reef
Coral reefs are among the most fragile ecosystems on earth. Colonies grow
less than 5cm a year; once damaged, the coral is far more susceptible to bacterial
infection, which can quickly lead to large-scale irreversible deterioration. All
licensed tour guides in Belize are trained in reef ecology, and should brief you on
reef precautions. If exploring independently, keep the following points in mind:
Belize

• Never anchor boats on the reef – use the permanently secured buoys.
• Never touch or stand on the reef.
• Don’t remove shells, sponges or other creatures, or buy reef products from
souvenir shops.
The cayes and atolls

• Avoid disturbing the seabed around corals – clouds of sand smother coral
colonies.
• If you’re a beginner or out-of-practise diver, practice away from the reef first.
• Don’t use suntan lotion in reef areas – the oils remain on the water’s surface.
Instead, wear a T-shirt to guard against sunburn.
• Don’t feed or interfere with fish or marine life; this can harm not only sea
creatures, but snorkellers and divers too – large fish may attack, trying to get
their share.

Moon Caye Natural Monument and habitats in Belize. At the northern end
the Great Blue Hole, an enormous of the village lies “the Split”, a narrow
collapsed cave. (but widening) channel cut by Hurri-
cane Hattie in 1961; it’s a popular place
Caye Caulker to relax and swim. Although there’s a
CAYE CAULKER, 35km northeast of reasonable beach along the front of the
Belize City, is relaxed and easy-going. caye (created by pumping sand from
The reef, 1.5km offshore here, is a the back of the island), the sea nearby is
marine reserve, offering unbelievable shallow and full of seagrass, so head to
opportunities for any imaginable water- the Split or hop off the end of a dock if
sport. Even so, in general, the island you want to go for a dip.
is affordable, with an abundance of
inexpensive accommodation and tour Snorkelling
operators, though the number of expen- Snorkelling the reef is an experience
sive places is also increasing. In fact, not to be missed; its coral canyons are
until recently, tourism existed almost home to an astonishing range of fish,
as a sideline to the island’s main source along with eagle rays and perhaps
of income, lobster fishing – there’s even the odd shark (almost certainly
always plenty of the spiny creatures for harmless nurse sharks). Because of
the annual Lobster Fest, held in the the reef ’s fragility, visits to the marine
third weekend of June to celebrate the reserves and the reef itself must be
opening of the season. accompanied by a licensed guide.
Trips are easily arranged by the island’s
What to see and do snorkel and dive shops – expect to pay
US$20–25 per person for a half-day and
Caye Caulker is a little over 8km long. The US$40–50 for a full-day. Most day-trips
settlement is at the southern end, which stop at the reef as well as Hol Chan
curves west like a hook; the northern Marine Reserve (see p.79) and Shark-
tip, meanwhile, forms the Caye Caulker Ray Alley. See p.76 for listings of opera-
Forest Reserve, designated to protect tors. It is possible to rent sea kayaks
the caye litoral forest, one of the rarest from several places on Front Street for
74
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75
 independent snorkelling closer to the the island’s numerous golf carts (Bz$5–6), which
island, where some coral is visible; most usually wait to meet flights.
shops offer kayaks for Bz$12 per hour, By boat Boats pull into the Front Dock, which is
located in the middle of the island’s eastern edge
and snorkel gear for Bz$10.
and within easy walking distance of the any of the
Snorkelling tours can also be hotels listed below.
combined with a visit to Swallow Caye Tour operators For snorkelling, recommended
Belize

Wildlife Sanctuary, on a mangrove operators include: Anwar Snorkel Tours, north of

caye near Belize City, to view the the front dock (t 226-0327, e javi66_novelo
manatees; contact Chocolate’s Manatee @hotmail.com); Carlos Tours, near the Sandbox
Tours (T 226-0151, E chocolate@btl (t 226-0058 or 600-1654, e carlosayala10
The cayes and atolls

.net; US$40), at Chocolate’s Gift Shop. @hotmail.com); Ragamuffin Tours, near the north
end of Front St (t 226-0348, w www
.ragamuffintours.com); and Tsunami Adventures,
Diving
near the Split (t 226-0462, w www.tsunami
Diving here is also excellent, and adventures.com). For diving, try: Frenchie’s,
instruction and trips are usually towards the northern end of the village (t 226-
cheaper than in San Pedro: open-water 0234, w frenchiesdivingbelize.com); Belize Diving
certification starts at US$250, two- Services, on Back St (t 226-0143, w www
tank dives at US$75, trips to the Blue .belizedivingservice.com); or Big Fish, on Front St
Hole (see p.82) at US$175 and trips (t 226-0450, w www.bigfishdivebelize.com).
to the Turneffe Islands (see p.81) at Tourist information There’s no official tourist office,
US$115. Most places in town offer but the city’s websites (Wwww.gocayecaulker.com
and Wwww.cayecaulkerbelize.net) are helpful.
enthusiastic, knowledgeable local
guides, regular fast boat trips and a
wide range of diving courses – see Accommodation
opposite for listings of recommended Some of Caye Caulker’s hotels are being renovated
operators. to provide more upscale accommodation, but
the island still has an abundance of simple,
Sailing and other activities inexpensive, shared-bath rooms. Book in advance,
A more romantic way to enjoy the sea especially at Christmas and New Year’s. Even the
and the reef is to spend the day on a farthest hotels are no more than ten minutes’ walk
sailboat, which costs around US$40–50 from the front dock. Those recommended below
and usually includes several snorkelling are listed in the order you approach them, heading
north or south from the dock.
stops and lunch, arriving back as the
sun goes down. Ragamuffin Tours (see North from the front dock
opposite) offers sunset and moonlight Trends Beachfront Hotel Immediately right
cruises for US$20–40 and also runs from the dock; the office is on Front St
3-day, 2-night overnight camping trips T 226-0094, E [email protected]. Large
to Placencia. A number of establish- rooms with comfortable beds, private baths and
ments along Front Street rent kayaks: fridges in a brightly painted wooden building;
Tsunami Adventures (see opposite) some rooms have balconies. Single cabañas 4 ,
doubles 5
charge only US$8 per hour. Many tour
Tina’s Backpackers 75m along the
operators, including Anwar Snorkel
beach from the dock T 226-0019,
Tours (see opposite), organize trips E [email protected]. Dorm
inland to Altun Ha (from US$80) and beds and comfortable, shared-bath rooms in a
Lamanai (from US$125). very social beach house with communal kitchen.
There’s also a garden with hammocks. Dorms 2 ,
Arrival and information doubles 4
Sandy Lane Hotel On Middle St T 226-0117.
By air The airstrip is about 1km south of the Basic, well-worn wooden rooms and cabañas, some
centre and within walking distance (15min) of the with shared bath and some with private, are the
town centre. Alternatively, you can take one of cheapest on the island. 2 –3
76
Miramar Hotel On Front St T206-0357. Basic North from the front dock
rooms, some with private bath, in a wooden Sandbox Restaurant Immediately north of the
building with a large balcony overlooking the sea; dock T 226-0200. One of the most inexpensive
there’s one hot shower on the second floor. restaurants on the island, with great breakfasts,
Singles 3 , doubles 3 –4 Belizean cuisine and seafood both indoors and
Bella’s Backpackers On Crocodile St T 226- outside on the beach. The daily soup (Bz$6) is a
0360, E [email protected]. Dorm beds and great deal. Mains Bz$3–27.

Belize
private rooms, all with shared bath, in a clean, Caye Caulker Bakery On Middle St. Delicious
wooden building at the back of the island. There’s baked goods and desserts for Bz$1–4.
a communal kitchen and common room, as well as Bamboo Grill On the beach. Good Belizean
canoes for guest use. You can also camp (Bz$15 cuisine and seafood (Bz$14–40) served at

The cayes and atolls

per person) in the yard. Dorms 2 , doubles 4 high tables with wooden swings. The bar stays
Mara’s Place Near the Split T600-0080, open late.
E [email protected]. Comfortable, clean,
Happy Lobster On Front St. Great seafood and
quiet cabins with private bath, TV and porch.
Creole cuisine in a large, popular restaurant at
There’s also a communal kitchen and private
inexpensive prices; most mains are Bz$12–30.
sundeck. Doubles 6
Taj Restaurant at the northern end of Front St.
Very traditional, authentic Indian cuisine
South from the front dock
(from Bz$10) in an open restaurant facing the
Lena’s Guesthouse 250m south of the front dock
beach.
T 226-0106, E [email protected]. Basic wooden
rooms with private bath, just steps from the sea.
treat yourself

Two-night minimum stay. 5 –7 Habaneros On Front St.

Tropical Paradise Hotel At the southern end of The island’s best restaurant:
Front St T226-0124, Wwww.tropicalparadise attentive staff pairs up superb
-cayecaulker.com. A wide range of rooms, all with seafood and Latin-inspired
hot showers, private baths and fans, and some with dishes – such as seafood satay
a/c, in a series of brightly painted wooden buildings. (Bz$36) and “Brazilian Beef”
The adjoining restaurant serves inexpensive meals. ($40) – with fine wines on a
Doubles 6 romantic, open-air veranda.
Jaguar Morning Star Guest House Across from Reservations recommended.
the island’s only school T226-0347, Ejoanne
@btl.net. Two large rooms in a house overlooking a
beautiful garden and a cabana. Rooms have private South from the front
bath, coffee pot, fridge, cable TV and fan. wi-fi dock
Bz$15 per day. 6 Rose’s Café On Calle del Sol at Front St. Popular
Lorraine’s Guest House At the southern end of place for breakfast and simple Belizean and
the island, on the beach T206-0162. Wooden Mexican dishes. Mains Bz$7–20.
cabins with private baths are a bit shabby but Amor y Café On Front St. Very popular restaurant
inexpensive. 4 serves excellent coffee, breakfasts and sandwiches
(Bz$5–9) on a veranda overlooking the street. Only
Eating and drinking open 6.30am–noon.
Glenda’s Restaurant On Back St. Known for its
Restaurant prices in Caye Caulker are quite high cinnamon rolls, Glenda’s dishes up breakfast and
compared to the rest of the country, and it can lunch for Bz$7–10.
be difficult to find a meal for less than Bz$15. Little Kitchen On Back St. This tiny,
Still, lobster (in season) and seafood are generally out-of-the-way shack offers some of
good value. You can self-cater from several shops the cheapest and best food on Caye Caulker.
and supermarkets on the island, and children Excellent seafood for Bz$10–25, and lobster
sell home-baked banana bread, coconut cakes starts at only Bz$20.
and other goodies. Some bars have live music; Rasta Pasta On Front St. Very popular restaurant
otherwise, evening entertainment mostly consists features pasta and seafood, as well as enormous,
of relaxing in a restaurant over dinner or a drink, delicious burritos, for Bz$15–25.
or gazing at the tropical night sky. Note that the Tropical Paradise Restaurant At the southern
tap water is unfit to drink; rainwater and bottled end of Front St. The friendly staff here serves
water are widely available. Belizean cuisine and seafood in an open-air
77
 setting. Daily specials, usually Bz$20, are a great
deal and include a free mixed drink.
Moving on
By boat Boats operated by the Caye Caulker
Directory Water Taxi Association (T 223-5752, W www
.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com) depart for Belize City
Exchange Atlantic Bank, just south of the centre,

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the cayes, is AMBERGRIS CAYE. The Ambergris Caye costs around US$75.
island’s main attraction is the former Open-water certification courses run
fishing village of SAN PEDRO, facing around US$425, while a more basic,
the reef just a few kilometres from the single-dive resort course ranges from
caye’s southern tip. San Pedro is a small US$140; both include equipment.
town, but its population of over nine All the dive shops in San Pedro also

Belize
thousand makes it the biggest of any of offer snorkelling trips, costing around
the cayes. As the result of massive recent US$25–35 for two to three hours
development, it has lost most, though and US$40–55 for four to five, and
certainly not all, of its Caribbean charm: many will rent diving and snorkelling

The cayes and atolls

it still retains a wonderfully relaxed supplies; trips to the Blue Hole (see
atmosphere, despite the fact that some p.82) run around US$250 and trips
of the most exclusive hotels, restaurants to the Turneffe Islands (see p.81)
and bars in Belize have been built here. US$185. See p.76 for recommended
The island’s only budget places are in dive shops.
the original village of San Pedro, though
even these are extremely expensive. To Hol Chan Marine Reserve
save money and still visit Ambergris, The Hol Chan Marine Reserve
consider staying on Caye Caulker (see (Bz$20), 8km south of San Pedro, at the
p.74) and doing a day-trip. southern tip of the caye, takes its name
from the Maya for “little channel” – it
What to see and do is this break in the reef that forms the
focus of the reserve. Its three zones
San Pedro’s main streets are only half a preserve a comprehensive cross-section
dozen blocks long and the town does of the marine environment, from the
not boast any particular sights. The open sea through seagrass beds and
main focus of daytime entertainment mangroves. Tours to Hol Chan must
is the sea and the reef, with activi- be led by a licensed guide, and also
ties from sunbathing to windsurfing, stop at Shark-Ray Alley, another part
sailing, fishing, diving, snorkelling and of the reserve, where you can swim
glass-bottomed boat rides. Beaches with three-metre nurse sharks and
on the caye are narrow and the sea enormous stingrays – an extremely
immediately offshore is shallow, with a popular attraction. It’s also somewhat
lot of seagrass, so in town you’ll usually controversial: while swimming here
need to walk to the end of a dock if you poses almost no danger to snorkellers,
want to swim. Be careful, though: there as humans are not part of their normal
have been accidents in San Pedro in diet, biologists claim that the practice
which speeding boats have hit people of feeding the fish to attract them alters
swimming off docks. A line of buoys their natural behaviour.
indicates the “safe area”, but speedboat
drivers can be a bit macho, so watch Other watersports
where you swim. While most travellers come to the
cayes to snorkel or dive, windsurfing
Diving and snorkelling and sailing are popular as well, though
The most central snorkelling and learning either sport can be quite expen-
diving spot on Ambergris is the sive. The best rental and instruction
reef opposite San Pedro, but it’s also for both is offered by SailSports Belize
heavily used. You’re better off heading (T 226-4488, W www.sailsportsbelize
north, to Mexico Rocks, or south, to .com), on the beach in front of the Holiday
Hol Chan (see opposite). For quali- Hotel. Sailboard rentals cost US$22–27
fied divers, a two-tank local dive from an hour, or US$72–82 for a seven-hour
79
 day; sailboat rental is US$22–49 an hour, front of the Spindrift Hotel (t 226-3008, wwww
with discounts for multiple hours. They .protechdive.com); and Seaduced by Belize (t226-
also offer kite-surfing lessons (US$250 2254, wwww.seaducedbybelize.com). Several of
these operators also do inland tours to Maya ruins,
for a two-day, 8hr course; in a group
manatee tours and fishing trips.
US$195 per person) and sailing lessons Tourist information The official tourist informa-
(US$66 per hr). tion office is on Barrier Reef Drive at Black Coral
Belize

St. Ambergris Caye also has a good website

Guided day-trips (W www.ambergriscaye.com) with links to most of
Day-trips from San Pedro to the ruins the businesses on the island. For listings, pick up
of Altun Ha (US$75–90; see p.83) or a copy of The San Pedro Sun or Ambergris Today,
The cayes and atolls

Lamanai (US$135–160; see p.87) are the island’s tourist newspapers (Bz$1), available
becoming increasingly popular, but from the tourist office and at most hotels and
restaurants.
can be done more cheaply from other
parts of the country. However, with
a good guide this is an excellent way Accommodation
to spot wildlife, including crocodiles Accommodation in San Pedro is some of the most
and manatees, and the riverbank trees expensive in the country – all but a few places
are often adorned with orchids. See cost at least US$70. Most of the year reserva-
opposite for recommended guides. tions are not necessary, though it’s risky to turn
It is also possible to visit some of the up at Christmas, New Year or Easter unless you’ve
local ancient Maya sites on the north- booked a room.
west coast of Ambergris, many of Martha’s Hotel Pescador Drive, across from Elvi’s
which are just in the process of being Kitchen T226-2053, [email protected].
Simple but clean rooms with private baths and fans
excavated. On San Juan beach you’ll
in a concrete building in the centre of town. A great
be scrunching over literally thousands
bargain. Singles 2 , doubles 5
of pieces of Maya pottery, but perhaps Pedro’s Backpacker Inn Coconut Drive, 1km south
the most appealing site is Chac Balam, of town T226-3825, Wwww.backpackersbelize
a ceremonial and administrative centre .com. A bit of walk from town, but the basic budget
with deep burial chambers. rooms (two single beds, lockers and shared showers)
come at the cheapest rate on the island. There’s also
Arrival and information a very social bar on-site. 4
Ruby’s Guesthouse Barrier Reef Drive, just north
By air The airport is just south of the city centre, of the airstrip T 226-2063, E [email protected].
within easy walking distance of any of the recom- Family-run hotel on the seafront; rooms with a/c,
mended hotels, though golf buggies and taxis also rooms with private baths and rooms on the higher
line up to give you a ride for around Bz$6–8 should floors cost more, but all are good value, especially
you choose. those in the annex on the lagoon. 6 –7
By boat Boats arriving from Belize City and/or San Pedrano Corner of Barrier Reef Drive and
Caye Caulker usually dock at the Coral Beach pier Caribeña St T226-2054, [email protected].
on the front (reef) side of the island at the eastern Family-run hotel in a wooden building set back
end of Black Coral St, though the Thunderbolt slightly from the sea, with comfortable, private-bath
from Corozal (see p.88) pulls in at the back of rooms (some with a/c and all with TVs) and breezy
the island at the western end of Black Coral St. verandas. 6
Arriving at either dock, you’re pretty much in the Spindrift Hotel Barrier Reef Drive T 226-2174,
centre and within walking distance of most of the E [email protected]. Centrally located and
hotels listed below. well-decorated hotel with large garden and
Tour operators For diving trips and courses, try: adjoining restaurant. All rooms have private bath
Belize Academy of Diving, based at Mexico Rocks, and fans; more expensive rooms have a/c and
7km north of San Pedro (t 226-2873, wwww balconies. 7 –9
.belize-academy-of-diving.com); Belize Diving Thomas Hotel Barrier Reef Drive, north of the
Adventures (t226-3082, wwww.belizediving centre T226-2061. Rooms here (some with a/c)
adventures.net); Ecologic Divers (t226-4118, are a great deal, with private baths, fridges and
w www.ecologicdivers.com); Protech Belize, in TVs. 5 –6
80
 Bars and clubs
Eating Big Daddy’s Disco On the beach just south of the
park. Locals flock to this beach bar and club for
Eating prices in San Pedro are also generally higher
reggae and Latin beats on weekend nights. Cover
than elsewhere in Belize. Seafood is prominent at
Bz$10.
most restaurants, and you can also rely on plenty of
Crazy Canuck Bar south of town at Exotic Caye
steak, shrimp, chicken, pizza and salads. There are
Beach Resort. A slightly more mature crowd sip

Belize
several Chinese restaurants too, and in the evening
cocktails and dance to live bands on Mon nights.
several inexpensive fast-food stands open for
Open until midnight.
business along the front of Central Park. Self-
Deja Vu 1.5km south of town. Large, loud club and
catering isn’t much of a bargain: there’s no market
bar (formerly known as the Barefoot Iguana) with a

The cayes and atolls

and the supermarkets are stocked with expensive
live band or DJ most nights of the week.
imported canned goods.
Fido’s On Barrier Reef Drive. A restaurant by day,
by night Fido’s becomes one of the most popular
Restaurants
evening spots in San Pedro, hosting a live band
Caliente On the beach at Spindrift Hotel T226-
most evenings.
2170. Enjoy Mexican and Latin cuisine on a patio
Jaguar Temple On Barrier Reef Drive opposite the
overlooking the sea.
park. Tourists and locals pack this large, colourfully
Caramba’s Near the north end of Pescador Drive
painted club on most nights.
T 226-4321. A lively crowd comes to this large
restaurant for a variety of dishes, including Mexican
and Caribbean cuisine as well as seafood. Mains Directory
Bz$11–50.
Estel’s Restaurant On the beach just south of the Exchange Belize Bank on Barrier Reef Drive has an
park T226-2019. Locally owned restaurant serves ATM, and the other banks will give cash advances,
breakfast all day and Belizean and Mexican food at but traveller’s cheques and US dollars are accepted
lunch for Bz$5–22. – even preferred – everywhere.
Fido’s On Barrier Reef Drive. A favourite of tourists Internet Caribbean Connection, on Barrier Reef
and expats, who come to eat seafood and interna- Drive, offers internet access for Bz$10/hr and
tional cuisine and sip cocktails. There’s a terrace cheap international phone calls.
overlooking the sea. Mains Bz$18–28. Laundry There are two laundries on Pescador
Hacal Kiik Just north of the airstrip on Esmerelda Drive.
St T226-3115. Great baked goods and coffee for Post office In the Alijua building, opposite the
Bz$1 and up. Atlantic Bank on Barrier Reef Drive (Mon–Thurs
The Reef Near the north end of Pescador Drive 8am–noon and 1–4pm, Fri until 3.30pm).
T 226-4145. Good Belizean food, including
delicious seafood, at relatively inexpensive prices Moving on
for the island; most mains are Bz$10–22.
Ruby’s Café Barrier Reef Drive, next to Ruby’s By boat Boats from San Pedro to Caye Caulker
Guesthouse. Delicious home-made cakes, pies (Bz$15) and Belize City (Bz$20) are operated by the
and sandwiches, and freshly brewed coffee. Opens Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association (T226-0992,
at 6am. Wwww.cayecaulkerwatertaxi.com) and leave from
Waraguma Towards the south end of Pescador the front dock at least every 90min 7am–3.30pm
Drive. A tiny, very inexpensive restaurant (4.30pm on weekends and holidays). The Thunder-
featuring Creole, Garífuna and Mexican cuisine bolt (T610-4475 or 601-7759) also operates from
starting at Bz$2. the back dock in San Pedro to Corozal (daily 7am
and 3pm; 1hr 30min).
Drinking and nightlife
turneffe islands
San Pedro is the tourist entertainment capital of
Although Caye Caulker and San Pedro
Belize, and if you check locally, you’ll find live
music on somewhere every night of the week.
are the only villages on the reef, there
Most of the hotels have bars, several of which are a couple of dozen other inhab-
offer happy hours, while back from the main ited islands, as well as some excellent
street are a couple of small cantinas that serve diving spots. The virtually uninhab-
both locals and tourists. ited TURNEFFE ISLANDS, 40km
81
 from Belize City and south of cayes the west, guano from seabirds fertilizes
Caulker and Ambergris, comprise an the soil, enabling the growth of dense
oval archipelago of low-lying mangrove vegetation, while the eastern half has
islands around a shallow lagoon 60km mostly coconut palms. A total of 98
long. These are enclosed by a beautiful bird species has been recorded here,
coral reef, which offers some of the including frigate birds, ospreys, and a
Belize

best diving and snorkelling in Belize. resident population of four thousand

The island boasts several resorts, all of red-footed boobies, one of only two
which are out of the reach of the typical such nesting colonies in the Caribbean.
budget traveller, but you can still visit Upon arrival (most people come as part
The north

this incredible spot on a day-trip from of a tour), visitors must pay the Bz$20
San Pedro and Caye Caulker. See p.80 entrance fee at the visitors’ centre; you
and p.76 for tour operators. can camp here (T 223-5004; 4 ), but you
need to call ahead for permission.
Lighthouse Reef
About 80km east of Belize City is
Belize’s outermost atoll, LIGHT-
HOUSE REEF is home to the popular
underwater attractions of the Great
The north
Blue Hole and Half Moon Caye Natural
The level expanses of northern Belize
Monument. are a mixture of farmland and rainforest,
dotted with swamps, savannas and
The Blue Hole lagoons. Most visitors come to the
The Blue Hole, technically a karst- region for its Maya ruins and wildlife
eroded sinkhole, is over 300m in reserves. The largest Maya site,
diameter and 135m deep, dropping Lamanai, served by regular boat tours
through the bottom of the lagoon and along the New River Lagoon, features
opening out into a complex network some of the most impressive pyramids
of caves and crevices; its depth gives and beautiful scenery in the country.
it an astonishing deep blue colour The site of Altun Ha, meanwhile, is
that is, unfortunately, best appreciated usually visited on a day-trip from
from the air. Though visibility is gener- Belize City. The northern reserves also
ally limited, many divers still find the host an astonishingly diverse array of
trip worthwhile for the drop-offs and wildlife. At the Community Baboon
underwater caves, which include stalac- Sanctuary, a group of farmers have
tites and stalagmites. Unfortunately combined agriculture with conserva-
for budget travellers, trips to the Blue tion to the benefit of the black howler
Hole – which must be led by a licensed monkey, and at the stunning Crooked
guide or company – usually cost at least Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, rivers and
US$250. lagoons offer protection to a range of
migratory birds.
Half Moon Caye Natural Many of the original residents in
Monument this region were refugees from the
The Half Moon Caye Natural nineteenth-century Caste Wars in
Monument, the first marine conser- Yucatán, and some of the northernmost
vation area in Belize, was declared a towns are mainly Spanish-speaking.
national park in 1982 and became one The largest settlement today is Orange
of Belize’s first World Heritage Sites in Walk, the country’s main centre for
1996. The 180,000-square-metre caye is sugar production. Further north, near
divided into two distinct ecosystems. In the border with Mexico, Corozal is a
82
small Caribbean town, strongly influ- history museum, there is a payphone and internet
enced by Maya and mestizo culture. access.

Community Baboon Accommodation

Sanctuary If you have your own tent, you can camp at the
Heading north from Belize City, visitors’ centre (2 ). Alternatively, a number of local

Belize
the COMMUNITY BABOON families offer rooms in B&Bs (4 ); enquire at the
SANCTUARY (Bz$10; W www.howler visitors’ centre. Howler Monkey Lodge (T220-
2158, Wwww.howlermonkeylodge.com; 2 –6 ),
monkeys.org), to the west off the
on the river near the visitors’ centre, has cabins
Northern Highway, is one of the most

The north
with private baths and fans (some with a/c) and
interesting conservation projects in three rooms with shared bath.
Belize. It was established in 1985 by
Dr Rob Horwich and a group of local
Eating
farmers (with help from the World
Wide Fund for Nature), who devel- Community Restaurant Behind the visitors’
oped a code of conduct of sustainable centre in Bermudian Landing. Run by the village’s
living and farming practices. A mixture women’s group, this basic restaurant offers tradi-
of farmland and broad-leaved forest tional Creole fare.
along the banks of the Belize River, the Russell’s Restaurant In the centre of Bermudian
Landing (where one of the buses parks for the
sanctuary coordinates seven villages, of
night). Simple Belizean cuisine is served on tables
which Bermudian Landing is the most overlooking the river.
convenient, and more than a hundred
landowners, in a project of conserva-
tion, education and tourism.
Moving on
The main focus of attention is the By bus Buses circle the village and return to Belize
black howler monkey (known locally City between 5.30am and 6.30am Mon–Sat.
as a “baboon”). These primates generally
live in groups of between four and eight, Altun Ha
and spend the day wandering through Fifty-five kilometres north of Belize
the canopy, feasting on leaves, flowers City and just 9km from the sea is the
and fruits. At dawn and dusk they let remarkable Maya site of ALTUN HA
rip with their famous howl: a deep and (daily 8am–5pm; Bz$10), which was
rasping roar that carries for miles. The occupied for twelve hundred years, until
sanctuary is also home to over two it was abandoned around 900 AD. Its
hundred bird species, as well as iguanas, position close to the Caribbean suggests
peccaries and coatis. You can find that it was sustained as much by trade
exhibits and information on the river- as by agriculture – a theory upheld by
side habitats and animals you are likely the discovery here of obsidian and jade,
to see in the natural history museum neither of which occurs naturally in
– actually Belize’s first – at the reserve’s Belize.
visitors’ centre in Bermudian Landing. Altun Ha clusters around two Classic
period plazas. Entering from the road,
Arrival and information you come first to Plaza A, enclosed by
large temples on all sides. A magnificent
By bus Buses arriving from Belize City circle the
village of Bermudian Landing, and stop at the
tomb was discovered beneath Temple
sanctuary’s visitors’ centre only a few minutes’ A-1, the Temple of the Green Tomb.
walk from all recommended accommodation. Dating from 550 AD, this yielded jades,
Visitor information The reserve’s visitors’ centre jewellery, stingray spines, skin, flints
(daily 8am–5pm; t220-2181) is at the west end and the remains of a Maya book. The
of Bermudian Landing. In addition to the natural adjacent Plaza B is dominated by the
83
 site’s largest temple, the Temple of the World, with a wingspan of 2.5m. The
Masonry Altars. Several tombs have best months for bird watching are late
been uncovered within the main struc- February to June, when the lagoons
ture; in one, archeologists discovered a shrink to a string of pools, forcing wildlife
carved jade head of Kinich Ahau, the to congregate for food and water.
Maya sun god. Just under 15cm high, In the middle of the reserve, strag-
Belize

it is the largest carved jade found in the gling around the shores of a lagoon, is
Maya world; a replica is on display in the village of Crooked Tree, which is
the Museum of Belize (see p.68). linked to the mainland by a causeway.
Outside these two main plazas are One of the oldest inland villages in the
The north

several other areas of interest, though country, Crooked Tree is also one of
little else has yet been restored. A short Belize’s loveliest, with well-kept houses
trail leads south to Rockstone Pond, a and lawns dotted along tree-lined lanes.
reservoir in Maya times, at the eastern Though guided tours to the lagoon are
edge of which stands another mid-sized quite expensive (at least US$40–80),
temple. Built in the second century AD, numerous trails, signposted from
this contained offerings from the great the roads, wind around the island
city of Teotihuacán in the Valley of and along the shoreline, where you’ll
Mexico. see plenty of birds and wildlife even
without a guide.
Arrival and information
Arrival and information
By bus Altun Ha is difficult to reach independ-
ently. In theory there are buses from the Belize By bus Buses from Belize City make a loop around
City terminal to the village of Maskall (call the the village of Crooked Tree before heading to the
community phone – T209-1058 – to check times), causeway. Hitching is a viable (and common)
passing the turn-off to the site at the village of option; any non-express bus can drop you at the
Lucky Strike, but service is erratic. junction with the Northern Highway.
Tours Travel agents in Belize City can arrange tours Visitor information The wildlife sanctuary visitors’
(US$80–150 per group) and increasing numbers centre (8am–4.30pm) is at the end of the causeway
of people visit on a day-trip from San Pedro and in Crooked Tree. Pay the reserve’s Bz$8 entrance
Caye Caulker (US$75–85 per person). Your best bet fee here.
to save money is to find a group in Belize City and
split the cost. Accommodation

Crooked Tree Most of the accommodation in Crooked Tree is in

mid-priced hotels, though some of these also have
wildlife sanctuary camping space.
Midway between Belize City and
Orange Walk, a branch road heads
treat yourself

Bird’s Eye View Lodge On the

west to CROOKED TREE WILDLIFE lakeshore, clearly signposted
SANCTUARY (Bz$8), a reserve that through the village T 225-7027,
encompasses swamps, wetlands and four W www.birdseyeviewbelize
separate lagoons. Designated Belize’s .com. Worth the splurge for its
first Ramsar site (to protect wetlands of idyllic, isolated location right
international importance), the sanctuary on the lagoon. Comfortable
rooms have private baths
provides a resting place for thousands
and a/c, and some have
of migrating and resident birds, such as
balconies. There’s a restaurant
snail kites, tiger herons, snowy egrets, downstairs, and tours of the
ospreys and black-collared hawks. The sanctuary, as well as nearby Maya
reserve’s most famous visitor is the jabiru sites, can be arranged. 7 –9
stork, the largest flying bird in the New
84
 Rhaburn’s Rooms T225-7035. Turn left at the Bird’s Eye View Restaurant On the hotel
large Crooked Tree sign, then right through the field grounds. Worth the one-mile walk from the
after the Church of the Nazarene. A friendly couple centre, with a patio overlooking the lagoon. Serves
manages four small, simple rooms with fans and a large breakfasts and light, fresh lunches for around
clean shared bath. Singles 2 , doubles 3 Bz$10. Dinner (Bz$25) is usually a three-course
Sam Tillet’s Hotel In the centre of the village along affair, though you can also ask solely for the main
the bus route T220-7026, [email protected]. course.

Belize
Good-value hotel set amid lovely gardens. Rooms
have private baths and fans; most share a balcony. Moving on
You can camp on the grounds (2 ), the restaurant
serves delicious breakfasts and dinners and tours By bus to: Belize City (Mon–Sat 6.30am & 7am).

The north
can be arranged. 5 –7
Orange Walk
Eating Like many of Belize’s northern cities,
3-J’s In the centre, in a green building on the bus ORANGE WALK, the largest town in the
route. Friendly place serving Creole meals and region, was founded by mestizo refugees
international fare. fleeing the Caste Wars in the Yucatán.

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 Long before their arrival, however, the Sarteneja stop at Zeta’s Store on Main St, two
area around Orange Walk had been blocks east.
worked as some of the most produc- Internet Access is cheap and plentiful; K & N
Printshop, on the Belize–Corozal Rd a block south
tive arable farmland in Belize – aerial
of the post office, is the most convenient.
surveys have revealed evidence of raised Post office Right in the centre of town, on Queen
fields and a network of irrigation canals Victoria Ave.
Belize

dating from ancient Maya times. Today,

Orange Walk is a thriving community Accommodation
by Belizean standards, and though there
aren’t many attractions in the town itself, Akihito 22 Queen Victoria Ave T302-0185.
The north

it’s a great, low-key base for those looking Provides mainly basic accommodation – dorm beds,
to explore one of the region’s highlights: and some rooms with private baths and a/c – in
the nearby ruins at Lamanai. a concrete building a few blocks from the centre.
There’s also one “deluxe” room with Jacuzzi. There’s
a Japanese restaurant downstairs and internet
What to see and do access for Bz$4/hr. Dorms 2 , doubles 3 –5
Hotel de la Fuente 14 Main St T322-2290,
The town centres around a distinctly Wwww.hoteldelafuente.com. Bright rooms in a
Mexican-style formal plaza, and the town good-value hotel include private baths, refrigera-
hall is referred to as the Palacio Munic- tors, coffee makers and wireless internet. The
ipal, reinforcing the town’s strong histor- owners can arrange to have guests picked up by
ical links to Mexico. The only real sight Jungle River Tours (see p.87) for trips to
in town, per se, is the Banquitas House Lamanai. 5 –7
St Christopher’s Hotel 10 Main St T 302-
of Culture (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm, Sat
1064, W http://stchristophershotelbze.com.
8.30am–1pm; free; T 322-0517), on the
Very clean, well-decorated rooms with TVs, private
riverbank near the bridge, which houses baths, refrigerators and balconies overlooking a
a permanent exhibition charting the garden on the edge of the river. Some rooms have
history of Orange Walk District from a/c, and internet (Bz$4/hr) and laundry services
Maya times to the present. are available. The staff also arranges trips to
Lamanai through Reyes River Tours (see p.87).
Arrival and information Singles 5 –6 , doubles 5 –6

By bus Hourly buses from Belize City and Corozal Eating

pull up on the main road in the centre of town,
officially Queen Victoria Ave but always referred Orange Walk has a plethora of Chinese restaurants
to as the Belize–Corozal Rd. Services to and from as well as establishments serving traditional

Mennonites in Belize
Members of Belize’s Mennonite community, easily recognizable in their denim
dungarees, can be seen trading produce and buying supplies every day in Orange
Walk and Belize City. The Mennonites, a Protestant group often noted for their
pacifist beliefs and rejection of modern advancements, arose from the radical
Anabaptist movement of the sixteenth century and are named after Dutch priest
Menno Simons. Recurring government restrictions on their lifestyle, especially
regarding their objection to military service, have forced them to move repeatedly
over time. Having emigrated to Switzerland, they then travelled to Prussia, and
in 1663 a group moved to North America. After World War I they migrated from
Canada to Mexico, eventually arriving in Belize in 1958. In recent years, farm-
produced prosperity has caused drastic changes in their lives: the Mennonite
Church in Belize is increasingly split between a modernist section – who use
electricity and power tools, and drive trucks, tractors and even cars – and the
traditionalists, who prefer a stricter interpretation of beliefs.
86
Creole and Mexican-influenced fare. The food the site a feeling of tranquillity. Before
court behind the town hall, near the market, has heading to the ruins, visit the spacious
a line of cafés and vendors offering cheap eats, new archeological museum, which
including Mexican snacks for Bz$1–2 and good-
houses an impressive collection of
sized breakfasts for Bz$5–8. It’s usually open until
early afternoon.
artefacts, eccentric flints and original
stelae. Within the site itself, the most

Belize
Restaurants remarkable structure is the prosaically
Juanita’s 8 Santa Ana St, across from the Shell named N10-43 (informally the “High
station. This small, simple restaurant is popular with Temple”), a massive Late Preclassic
locals and serves good breakfasts and traditional temple over 37m tall and the largest

The north
Creole fare. Closed Sun. from the period in the Maya region.
Lamanai Riverside Retreat Lamanai Alley, on
The view across the surrounding forest
the bank of the New River T 302-3955. Enjoy
breakfast, dinner or just a beer on an outdoor
and along the lagoon from the top of the
patio right on the riverbank. The restaurant temple is magnificent, and well worth
offers a wide variety of Mexican-influenced and the daunting climb. North from here is
traditional Creole dishes as well as burgers and N9-56, a small sixth-century pyramid
fries for Bz$8–25. One of the few places in town (often called the “Mask Temple”, for
open on Sun. its exceptionally well-preserved four-
metre-high stucco mask of a ruler
Moving on represented as a deity, probably Kinich
Ahau, the sun god). At the southern end
By bus to: Belize City (hourly; 1hr 30min); of the site, on a grand plaza, is another
Chetumal (hourly; 2hr); Corozal (hourly; 1hr);
sixth-century pyramid, structure
Sarteneja (3 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr). Local buses to the
surrounding villages leave from the market area,
N10-9, known as the Jaguar Temple
behind the town hall and fire station. for the two large, stylized jaguar masks
adorning its lowest level.
Lamanai
Extensive restoration, a spacious new Arrival and information
museum and a stunning jungle setting By boat The easiest, most pleasant way to get
make LAMANAI (Mon–Fri 8am– to Lamanai is by river; the cheapest and most
5pm, Sat, Sun & holidays 8am–4pm; informative way to do this is as part of an organized
Bz$10) the most impressive Maya site tour (see below).
in northern Belize. It is also one of the By bus It is theoretically possible to reach
few sites whose original Maya name Lamanai independently via the local bus from
Orange Walk to the nearby village of Indian
– Lama’an ayin (“Submerged Croco-
Church, but buses run only sporadically, and
dile”) – is known, hence the numerous
transportation and accommodation hassles
representations of crocodiles on stucco make it much more practical to go as part of an
carvings and artefacts found here. organized day-trip (see below).
Lamanai, however, is a seventeenth- Tour operators A number of operators organize
century mis-transliteration, which day-trips from Orange Walk, departing around 9am;
actually means “Drowned Insect.” The the price (US$40–50) will usually include lunch. The
site was continually occupied from A
most informative are Jungle River Tours,
around 1500 BC up until the sixteenth 20 Lover’s Lane (T302-2293, Elamanaimayatour
century, when Spanish missionaries @btl.net), run by the Novelos. Another good
operator is Reyes River Tours (T 322-3327),
built a church alongside to lure the
whose trips depart from the Tower Hill Toll Bridge,
Indians from their “heathen” ways. 11km south of Orange Walk. To get to the bridge
Today the site is perched on a bank independently from Belize City, take the Northern
of the New River Lagoon inside a Transport bus that leaves Belize City at 7am for
950-acre Archeological Reserve, Chetumal (the driver will drop you at the right place
where the jungle surroundings give in good time for the 9am start).
87
 Sarteneja and Accommodation
Shipstern Nature
Backpackers Paradise La Bandera Rd T403-
Reserve 2051, Wwww.cabanasbelize.com. Super-cheap
Across Chetumal Bay from Corozal, cabañas and camping just 5min out of town; ask the
the largely uninhabited Sarteneja bus driver to drop you off at the Sarteneja Monument.
Belize

peninsula is covered with dense forests There’s also a restaurant (meals Bz$2–8), bike rental
(Bz$10/day) and laundry service (Bz$8). The staff can
and swamps that support an amazing
arrange horseriding excursions and pick-up from the
array of wildlife. SARTENEJA,
pier. Camping 1, cabañas 2
the peninsula’s only settlement, is a Fernando’s Guesthouse On North Front St, 100m
The north

quiet, Spanish-speaking lobster-fishing along the shoreline from the main dock T 423-
centre that boasts several hotels and 2085, Wwww.cybercayecaulker.com/sarteneja
restaurants. .html. Three large, tiled rooms and a “cabana” room
All buses to Sarteneja pass the entrance with thatched roof have private baths and share a
to SHIPSTERN NATURE RESERVE veranda overlooking the sea. Meals and snorkel-
(daily 9am–4pm; Bz$12.50, including ling and nature tours can be arranged. Bike rental
available (Bz$20/day). 5 –6
guided tour; W www.shipstern.org), 5km
Oasis Guesthouse One block south of North Front
before the village, though you can also St, west of the main dock T 423-2121, Eoasis
get here by renting a bike from Fernan- @corozal.bz. Wooden building with four large rooms
do’s or Backpackers Paradise in Sarteneja with private bath. 5
(see opposite). The reserve encompasses
an area of eighty square kilometres, Eating
including large areas of tropical moist
forest, some wide belts of savanna, 88 Chinese Restaurant On La Bandera Rd, one
and most of the shallow Shipstern block west of the main dock. Serves international
cuisine and Chinese staples for Bz$4–18. Open late.
Lagoon, dotted with mangrove islands.
Brisi’s Mini-Shop and Restaurant Across from
The visitors’ centre offers a variety
88 Chinese Restaurant. Tiny restaurant offering
of guided walks, though even if you Mexican snacks, burgers and sandwiches, most
choose the shortest, you’ll encounter Bz$4–12.
more named plant species here than Lily’s At the eastern end of the village. Come
on any other trail in Belize. Shipstern is here for traditional Belizean fare (Bz$6–12).
also a birdwatcher’s paradise: the lagoon Closed Sun.
system supports blue-winged teal,
American coot and huge flocks of lesser Moving on
scaup, while the forest is home to keel-
By boat The Thunderbolt skiff (T 610-4475/7759)
billed toucans and at least five species
departs for Corozal (8.20am & 4.20pm) and San
of parrot. Other wildlife in the reserve Pedro (7.30am & 3.30pm) if there’s sufficient
includes crocodiles, jaguars, pecca- demand.
ries and an abundance of wonderful By bus to: Belize City (5–6 daily, 4–6.30am; 3hr
butterflies. 30min); Chetumal (daily, usually at 5.30am; 3hr
30min). All buses to and from Sarteneja operate
Arrival Mon–Sat only, and all pass through Orange Walk.

By boat The Thunderbolt skiff, running between Corozal

Corozal and Ambergris Caye, can call at Sarteneja
South from the Mexican border, the
if there’s sufficient demand (T 610-4475/7759),
pulling into the main dock on North Front St.
road meets the sea at COROZAL, near
By bus Buses pull into Sarteneja at its southern the mouth of the New River. The ancient
end and make a loop around town; if you talk to the Maya prospered here by controlling river
driver beforehand, he or she will usually drop you and seaborne trade, and the impressive
off wherever you like. site of Cerros is nearby, if complicated to
88
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reach. Present-day Corozal was founded of the plaza you can see the remains
in 1849 by refugees from Mexico’s Caste of Fort Barlee, built to ward off Maya
Wars, although today’s grid-pattern attacks in the 1870s.
town, a neat mix of Mexican and Carib-
bean, is largely due to reconstruction in Santa Rita
the wake of Hurricane Janet in 1955. The small Maya site of Santa Rita (open
24hr; free) is within walking distance
What to see and do of the centre, about 15 minutes’ north-
west of town; follow the main road
There’s little reason to spend time in towards the border, bear right at the
Corozal unless you are trying to get fork and turn left at the Super Santa
to Cerros. If you do have some extra Rita store. Though it is a pleasant
time, however, the breezy shoreline spot if you have time to kill, the site
park is good for a stroll, while on the is no longer maintained and does not
tree-shaded main plaza, the town hall justify extending your stay in Corozal.
is worth a look inside for a mural by Founded around 1500 BC, Santa Rita
Manuel Villamar Reyes, which vividly was in all probability the powerful
describes local history. In the block west Maya city later known as Chactemal. It
89
 was still a thriving settlement in 1531 Hok’ol K’In Guest House 89 4th Ave T 422-
AD, when the conquistador Alonso 3329. Great-value hotel on the seafront. Large,
Davila entered the town, only to be clean rooms include private baths, fans and
balconies; some have a/c. The outdoor bar is
driven out almost immediately by Na
open 24hr and there’s a restaurant downstairs.
Chan Kan, the Maya chief, and his Singles 4 , doubles 5 –7
Spanish adviser Gonzalo Guerrero. Maya World Guesthouse 16 2nd St North
Belize

The main remaining building is a small T 624-4790, E [email protected]. Very

pyramid, and excavations here have basic budget hotel with private baths and fans.
uncovered the burial sites of an elabo- Singles 3 , doubles 4
rately bejewelled elderly woman and a
The north

Classic-period warlord. Eating

Joe Mel In 5th Ave and 2nd St South. Belizean and
Arrival and information
Mexican dishes (from Bz$5) in a large, open-air
By air Flights from San Pedro arrive at the airstrip restaurant.
2km south of town. Taxis meet flights and charge Marcelo’s Pizza 25 4th Ave T422-3275. Small,
Bz$7–10 for a trip to the centre. friendly restaurant serving fast food and pizza
By boat The Thunderbolt skiff arriving from San starting at Bz$8.
Pedro pulls into the main dock on 1st Ave, just two Patty’s Bistro 13 4th Ave T402-0174. A
blocks southeast of the town centre. brightly decorated, small place that draws
By bus The Northern Transport depot (T 402-3034) both locals and tourists. Great Belizean, Mexican
is near the northern edge of town, opposite the and American fare – cheeseburgers to fish soups
Shell station. In addition to local services between – for Bz$5–15.
Belize City and Corozal, express buses pass through
Corozal on route to Chetumal, Mexico, roughly Directory
hourly in each direction.
Tour operators For organized tours to local nature Exchange Belize Bank (with 24hr ATM), on the
reserves and archeological sites, contact Henry north side of the plaza.
Menzies (T 422-2725); he’s also an expert on Internet Easy to find; look for signs along 4th and
travel to Mexico. 5th aves.
Tourist information Corozal has no tourist office, Post office On the west side of the plaza (Mon–Fri
but the city’s website (Wwww.corozal.com) can be 8.30am–4.30pm).
a good place to find information.
Moving on
Accommodation
By boat The Thunderbolt (T 610-4475 or 601-
Caribbean Village On 7th Ave, 2.5km south of the 7759) runs to San Pedro, on Ambergris Caye, from
centre T422-2725. A campsite and RV park on the the dock southeast of the centre (daily 7am & 3pm;
water’s edge. The owners can arrange transport to 1hr 30min; Bz$45).
anywhere in Belize, as well as Flores, Guatemala. By bus to: Belize City (hourly 4am–6pm; 2hr 30min);
Office open daily 8am–6pm. Tent space 1 , Chetumal (hourly 6am–9pm; 1hr); Orange Walk
RV sites 4 (hourly; 1hr). Buses for surrounding villages (including

Into Mexico: Santa Elena

It’s less than four hours by bus along the Northern Highway from Belize City
to Chetumal, Mexico via the border crossing at Santa Elena. Entering Belize,
Mexican immigration and customs posts are on the northern bank of the Río
Hondo, 12km from Chetumal; when you’re finished there, the bus will pick you up
again to take you to Belizean immigration. Leaving Belize, you’ll have to pay an
exit tax of Bz$30 and the PACT conservation fee of Bz$7.50. Moneychangers wait
on the Belize side of the border; make sure to get rid of your Belize dollars before
crossing into Mexico.

90
 The west
Copper Bank, see below) leave from the market area.
If booked in advance, the Linea Dorada express bus to
Flores, Guatemala can pick you up from Hotel Maya,
on 7th Ave, 2km south of the centre.
Heading west from Belize City towards
the Guatemalan border, you’ll traverse
Cerros
varied landscapes, from open grassland

Belize
Built in a strategic position at the to dense tropical forest. A fast, paved
mouth of the New River, the late road, the Western Highway, runs the
Preclassic centre of CERROS (daily entire way, moving from the heat and
8am–5pm; Bz$10) was one of the humidity of the coast to the cooler, lush

The west
first places in the Maya world to foothills of the Maya Mountains.
adopt the rule of kings. Despite this Before reaching Belize’s tiny capital,
initial success, however, Cerros was Belmopan, the road passes two excel-
abandoned by the Classic period. The lent attractions: the Belize Zoo and
ruins of the site now include three the Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary.
large acropolis structures, ball courts West of Belmopan, following the Belize
and plazas flanked by pyramids. The River valley, the road skirts the Maya
largest building is a 22-metre-high Mountains. You’re now in Cayo District,
temple, whose intricate stucco masks the largest of Belize’s six districts and
represent the rising and setting sun. arguably the most beautiful. South of
Until recently, Cerros could be reached the road, the Mountain Pine Ridge
quite easily from Corozal via a bus to is a pleasantly cool region of hills and
the nearby village of Copper Bank. pine woods. San Ignacio, on the Macal
However, in 2007 Hurricane Dean River, makes an ideal base for exploring
seriously damaged the access road, and the forests, rivers and ruins of western
now the best way to reach the ruins is Belize, including Caracol, the largest
via a boat – which you’ll have to charter Maya site in Belize, and the region’s
– with a guide; boats leave from the dock many dramatic caves, often filled with
in Corozal just south of the Thunderbolt’s Maya artefacts.
point of departure (see p.90). Although
it is possible to approach boat-owners Belize Zoo
independently, hotels in Corozal can The BELIZE ZOO, at Mile 29 on the
give advice on arranging a tour, though Western Highway (daily 8.30am–5pm;
either way this option is quite expen- Bz$16; W www.belizezoo.org), is easily
sive, usually at least US$100. Alterna- visited on a half-day trip from Belize
tively, buses still run sporadically to City or as a stop on the way west.
Copper Bank, usually leaving late in Probably the finest zoo south of the
the evening from the market in Corozal US, and long recognized as a phenom-
and returning at 6.30am; you can then enal conservation achievement, the
rent a bike in Copper Bank to access zoo originally opened in 1983. Now
the ruins (20min). If you do venture to organized around the theme of “a walk
Copper Bank on your own, you’ll most through Belize”, the zoo offers the chance
likely have to spend a night or two; to see the country’s native animals
Copperbank Inn (T 608-0838, W www at close quarters. Residents include
.copperbankinn.com; 5 –6 ) offers large, tapirs, a wide variety of birds and all the
tiled rooms (some with a/c) with private Belizean cats. To get to the zoo take any
bath, TVs and verandas, and also has a bus between Belize City and Belmopan
restaurant. Lastly, visitors should note and ask the driver to drop you at the
that mosquitoes around the site are signed turn-off, a 200-metre walk from
particularly pesky – prepare accordingly. the entrance; you can leave your luggage
91
 at the visitors’ centre. If you’d like to NATIONAL PARK (daily 8am–4pm;
stay overnight in the area, the Tropical Bz$5), a 52-acre area of beautiful tropical
Education Centre (T 220-8003, E tec forest. Several short, circular trails leave
@belizezoo.org), on the opposite side of from the visitors’ centre, winding
the highway about 300m back towards through the forest and passing the
Belize City, offers three wooden dorms Belize and Roaring rivers; there’s even
Belize

(5 ) with shared baths and hot showers. a spot for swimming. Although a visit
Guests can take a nocturnal tour of the here isn’t necessary if you’re planning on
zoo for Bz$30. spending time in Belize’s other forested
One kilometre past the zoo, the Coastal areas, Guanacaste provides an excellent
The west

Road (served by only two weekly buses introduction to the country’s flora and
in each direction) provides an unpaved fauna and is exceptionally accessible;
short cut to Gales Point (see p.105) and any bus heading west can drop you off at
Dangriga. A kilometre or so past the the visitors’ centre, where you can leave
junction is Cheers, a friendly restaurant your belongings while you explore.
with good food at reasonable prices, and
reliable information. Belmopan
At Guanacaste, the Hummingbird
Monkey bay wildlife Highway (see p.102) splits from the
sanctuary Western Highway and heads south
to BELMOPAN (and eventually,
Half a kilometre past Cheers and 300m
Dangriga). The city was founded in 1970,
off the Western Highway, MONKEY after Hurricane Hattie swept much of
BAY WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Belize City into the sea. The government
(T 820-3032, W www.monkeybaybelize decided to use the disaster as a chance to
.org), a 44-square-kilometre protected move to higher ground and, in a bid to
area extending to the Sibun River, focus development on the interior, chose
offers birding and nature trails through a site at the geographical heart of the
five distinct types of vegetation and country. The name of the city combines
habitat. Adjoining the sanctuary is the the words “Belize” and “Mopan”, the
Monkey Bay National Park, enclosing language spoken by the Maya of Cayo,
a biological corridor that runs south and the layout of the main government
through karst limestone hills to connect buildings is modelled loosely on a Maya
with the Manatee Forest Reserve. Apart city, with buildings grouped around a
from being a relaxing place to stay in central plaza. When built, Belmopan
a private room (4 ) or to camp under was meant to symbolize a new era, with
thatched shelters (2 ), Monkey Bay is a tree-lined avenues, banks, embassies
viable experiment in sustainable living, and communications worthy of a world
using solar power, rainwater catchment centre. Few people, however, chose to
and biogas fuel for cooking; the food move here, and Belmopan remains the
(some of it grown in the station’s organic smallest capital city in the world. And
gardens) is plentiful and delicious, and although the population is growing
the staff arranges excursions. Amigos slowly, there’s little reason to stay any
Bar next to Monkey Bay has great food, longer than it takes your bus to leave.
a daily happy hour and internet access.
Arrival and information
Guanacaste National
By bus Buses from Belize City to San Ignacio,
Park Benque Viejo, Dangriga and Punta Gorda all pass
Just off the highway at the turnoff towards through Belmopan, so there’s at least one service
Belmopan is tiny GUANACASTE in either direction every 30min. All buses stop at
92
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Most of Belmopan’s accommodation is expensive Exchange Banks (with ATMs) are close to the bus
and aimed at visiting dignitaries and professionals. terminal.
If you do have to stay here, El Rey Inn, 23 Moho Immigration The office is in the main government
St (T 822-3438, [email protected]; doubles 5 , building by the fire station.
triples 6 ) has the cheapest rooms in town, all with
private bath. It is, however, quite a long walk from
treat yourself

Caesar’s Place 23km west

the bus station (20–30min), so consider taking a of Belmopan, off the Western
taxi (Bz$3–4). Highway T824-2341, Wwww
.belizegifts.com/guesthouse.
Eating and drinking A nice overnight option on
the way to San Ignacio, this
Many restaurants in Belmopan are closed on Sunday, café and guesthouse has
so snacks from the bus terminal may be your only comfortable rooms, trailer
option if you’re passing through then, unless you are hookups, space for camping
willing to wander quite a bit farther afield. (2 ) and a fabulous gift shop on
Aloha A few blocks north of the bus terminal. the banks of Barton Creek. Singles
Belizean cuisine, as well as Taiwanese dishes and 6 –7 , doubles 7 –8
burgers.
93
 Internet PC.Com, next to the Caladium, across San Ignacio
from the bus station.
On the west bank of the Macal River,
about 35km from Belmopan, SAN
Moving on IGNACIO is a friendly, relaxed town
By bus to: Belize City (every 20min, until 7pm; that draws together the best of inland
1hr 15min); Benque Viejo, for the Guatemalan border Belize. Surrounded by fast-flowing rivers
Belize

(every 30min; 1hr 30min); Dangriga (every 2hr, until and forested hills, it’s an ideal base from
6pm; 1hr 40min); Punta Gorda (every 2hr; 6hr); San which to explore the region, offering a
Ignacio (every 30min, until 10pm; 1hr 15min). pleasant climate, good food, inexpensive
The west

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94 
hotels and frequent bus connections. The
town is usually referred to as Cayo by
Arrival and information
locals, the same word that the Spanish By bus Services from Belize City stop in the centre
use to describe the offshore islands – an of town just south of Coronation Park, within easy
apt description of the area, which is set walking distance of all of the recommended hotels.
in a peninsula between two converging Tourist information There is no official tourist

Belize
rivers. The early Spanish Conquest in office in San Ignacio. The best stop for local advice
1544 made little impact here, and the area is the long-established Eva’s Bar on Burns Ave
(see p.96) – the owner knows almost everything
was a centre of rebellion in the following
about Cayo.
decades. Spanish friars arrived in 1618, Travel agent For domestic and international

The west
but the population continued to practice air tickets head to Exodus Travel, 2 Burns Ave
“idolatry”, and in 1641 Maya priests threw (T824-4400).
out some Spanish clerics. Tipu, the region’s
capital, retained a measure of independ- Accommodation
ence until 1707, when the population was
forcibly removed to Guatemala. San Ignacio has some of the best-value budget
accommodation in the country, and you’ll almost
always find space. For camping, try Cosmos or Mana
What to see and do
Kai.
Casa Blanca Guest House 10 Burns Ave T824-
There’s little to do in San Ignacio proper,
2080, Wwww.casablancaguesthouse.com. Very
though relative to other Belizean towns,
popular hotel with immaculate rooms, all with
one can spend many pleasant days private bath and cable TV (some with a/c) and a
here, as it’s both relaxed and low-hassle comfortable sitting area with fridge, coffee and tea.
and the streets of the centre are lined Booking is advisable. Singles 4 , doubles 5 –6
with bars and restaurants. Numerous Central O’tel 24 Burns Ave T 824-3734,
independent local operators – see the box E [email protected]. Simple, somewhat shabby
below for listings – offer superb guided rooms with shared baths at the cheapest rates
trips to attractions around San Ignacio, in town; the balcony with hammocks is a great
place from which to watch the street below.
including Actun Tunichil Muknal (see
Singles 2 , doubles 3
p.98) and Caracol (see p.100). There’s Cosmos Campground 1km along the Branch
some turnover among tour operators, Mouth Rd T824-2116, Ecosmoscamping@btl
so it’s always worth asking at your hotel .net. Campsite with showers, flush toilets and a
or at Eva’s Bar (see p.96) about what’s kitchen (1 ) and a simple cabin (4 ) with shared
currently being offered. hot-water showers.

tour Operators in san ignacio

Easy Rider In the Arts and Crafts store on Burns Ave just past Eva’s Bar T824-
3734, E [email protected]. Charlie Collins organizes the best-value horseriding
packages in San Ignacio (US$30 for a half-day, US$46 for a full day).
Mayawalk Adventures 19 Burns Ave T 824-3070, W www.mayawalk.com. A
wide variety of tours, including trips to Actun Tunichil Muknal (US$80), the ruins at
Caracol (US$75), Tikal, in Guatemala (US$85) and Mountain Pine Ridge (US$40).
Pacz Tours On Burns Ave, just after Eva’s Bar T824-2477, [email protected]. A
number of tours, including the least expensive trip to Actun Tunichil Muknal (US$75)
and one to Caracol (US$80).
Toni’s River Adventures At Eva’s Bar T824-3292, [email protected]. Toni
Santiago runs the best-value guided canoe trip on the Macal River; it’s
US$25, including lunch, for a paddle upriver to the Rainforest Medicine Trail (see
p.98). He also organizes fantastic overnight camping trips along the river.

95
 Hi-Et Hotel 12 West St T824-2828, Mincho’s Burns Ave, next to Hannah’s. Locals
[email protected]. Popular, comfort- crowd around this tiny food stand for Mexican
able hotel with shared-bath rooms in a beautiful snacks, including tacos and burritos, for Bz$3–5.
old wooden building, each with a tiny balcony, and Pop’s Far West St. Huge, inexpensive breakfasts
larger rooms with private bath in a new concrete and bottomless cups of coffee for Bz$10, as well as
building. Book ahead. Singles 3 –4 , doubles 4 traditional Belizean dishes.
Mana Kai Campground On Branch Mouth Rd Serendib 27 Burns Ave. Inexpensive Sri Lankan
Belize

T 824-2317. Centrally located campsite with cuisine for Bz$10–15. Closed Sun.
hammocks and showers. 1
Pacz Hotel 4 Far West St, two blocks behind Drinking and nightlife
Eva’s Bar T604-4526, Epaczghouse
The west

@btl.net. Five clean, comfortable rooms (some with As tourism to San Ignacio increases, so does the
private baths) at bargain rates. One room functions number of bars, some of which can get quite rowdy
as a dorm (2 ). The sitting room has a fridge and later at night. The town is also a popular weekend
cable TV. Good for information. Singles 3 –4 , spot for many Belizeans, so there’s also live music
doubles 4 and dancing on Friday and Saturday nights.
Tropicool Hotel On Burns Ave, 75m past Eva’s Eva’s Bar Burns Ave. This long-established bar is a
T 824-3052, E [email protected]. Bright, clean great place to relax and meet other travellers over
rooms with shared hot-water baths, and wooden a drink, and to find answers to any questions you
cabins with private showers and cable TV. The might have about Cayo.
sitting room has a TV and a laundry area. Singles Fiya Water Restaurant & Bar Burns Ave, across
3 , doubles 3 –4 , cabins 5 from Eva’s. Laid-back restaurant by day, Fiya
Venus Hotel 29 Burns Ave T824-3203, becomes a popular bar at night, open until late, with
E [email protected]. Two-storey hotel with a variety pool tables and dartboards.
of accommodation, including shared-bath economy Hode’s Place on Bullet Tree Rd. Popular with locals
rooms as well as rooms with private baths, a/c and and travellers, this bar and grill has a patio and
cable TV. Singles 3 –4 , doubles 4 –6 pool tables.
Roomba Room on the way to Cahal Pech, on Old
Benque Rd at Buena Vista. Young locals come here
Eating
to dance to reggae on Fri and Sat nights.
San Ignacio has an abundance of good, inexpensive Stork Club 18 Buena Vista St, in San Ignacio
restaurants. The Saturday market is also one of the Resort Hotel. Relaxed and somewhat upscale bar
best in Belize, with local farmers bringing in fresh most nights, with karaoke on Thurs and a DJ or
produce. band on Fri.

Restaurants Directory
Café Cayo 12 Burns Ave. Large, open restaurant
with patio offers pasta (from Bz$18), as well as pizza, Exchange Belize, Scotia, and Atlantic banks are
salads and fried foods. Also offers internet access. on Burns Ave; all have 24hr ATMs. Moneychangers
Elvira’s 6 Far West St. Delicious Belizean cuisine at will approach anyone they think is heading west
some of the cheapest prices in town – most dishes to exchange for Guatemalan quetzales; they also
are Bz$10 or under. board buses bound for Benque before departure.
Erva’s 4 Far West St, under Pacz Hotel. Traditional Internet Tradewinds, on West St at Waight’s Ave,
Belizean dishes for under Bz$10, as well as seafood offers internet access for Bz$5/hr.
and filling, topping-laden pizzas from Bz$16 served Laundry Drop-off laundry at Martha’s Guest House,
on a pleasant patio. Popular with both tourists and on West St.
locals. Post office Next to Courts furniture store in the
Hannah’s 5 Burns Ave. Small restaurant centre of town.
with some of the most delicious food in the
country – everything from Belizean to Burmese, Moving on
accompanied by fresh salads – at great prices; get
here early or you’ll have to wait. Mains Bz$8–20. By bus to: Belize City via Belmopan (every 30min
Maxim’s Far West St. The best of San Ignacio’s from 4am–6pm; 3hr); Benque Viejo, for the Guate-
numerous Chinese restaurants. Most dishes come malan border (every 30min; 15min). It’s more
in either small (typically large enough for a meal) or comfortable to get a shared taxi from San Ignacio to
large portions for Bz$6–25. the border for Bz$5 than taking the bus, though.
96
 Around San Ignacio best experience; see the box on p.95 for
San Ignacio makes a great base from recommended tour operators.
which to explore the Cayo District’s
impressive Maya ruins and stunning Cahal Pech
natural scenery. You’ll be required to The hilltop Maya site of Cahal Pech
hire a local guide in order to visit several (daily 6am–6pm; Bz$10), twenty minutes

Belize
of the region’s highlights, though this west of San Ignacio along the road to
is often a good idea anyway, to get the Benque Viejo, is well worth a visit. There’s
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97
 a good chance you’ll have the forested must be accompanied by a licensed
ruins all to yourself, and although the guide to enter) is also accessible only
structures are not particularly tall, the by river, though this time by canoe.
maze of restored corridors, stairways, Framed by jungle, the cave’s entrance
plazas and temples is enchanting. Cahal is at the far side of a pool, and inside
Pech was the royal acropolis-palace of an the river is navigable for about 1600m
Belize

elite Maya family during the Classic before ending in a gallery blocked by
period, and there’s evidence of a huge rockfall. If it’s been raining, a
monumental construction from at least subterranean waterfall cascades over
as early as 400 BC, though most of the the rocks – a truly unforgettable sight.
The west

remaining structures date from the The clear, slow-moving river fills most
eighth century AD. The visitors’ centre of the cave width, though the roof soars
and museum has a scale model of the 100m above you in places. Several
site, excellent displays and a variety of Maya burial sites and pottery vessels
artefacts. Entering the site itself, you line the banks, the most awe-inspiring
arrive at Plaza B, where your gaze is indicated by a skull set in a natural rock
drawn to Structure 1, the Audiencia, the bridge used by the Maya to reach the
highest building at Cahal Pech. From the sacred site.
top, the ruins of Xunantunich (see p.101)
are clearly visible to the southwest. Along the Macal River
Behind Structure 1, in Plaza A, is a Steep limestone cliffs and forested hills
restored three-storey temple, as well as edge the lower Macal River, whose main
other sacred buildings. tributaries rise in the Mountain Pine
Ridge Forest Reserve and the Chiquibul
Actun Tunichil Muknal Forest. In the upper reaches the water
Actun Tunichil Muknal (tours around is sometimes suitable for whitewater
US$80, including lunch and entry fee; kayaking, though you’ll need a guide
you must be accompanied by a licensed for this (see p.95). A guided canoe trip,
however, is by far the best way to visit one
guide to enter), in Roaring Creek
of the river’s top sights, the Rainforest
valley, gets its name (“Cave of the Stone
Medicine Trail (daily 8am–5pm), in the
Sepulchre”) for the astonishingly well-
grounds of The Lodge at Chaa Creek, 5km
preserved skeletons, fourteen in total, of
upriver from San Ignacio. The medical
Maya human sacrifices found here. As
knowledge of the Maya was extensive,
the cave has historically been inacces-
sible to looters, little has been touched
treat yourself

since the Maya stopped using it over a Martz Farm T614-6462 or

millennium ago, and the artefacts are 663-3849, Wwww.martzfarm
spellbinding. Perhaps the most dramatic .com. Much further upriver
from the other, pricier places on
sight is the skeleton of a young woman
the Macal, but well worth the
lying below a rock wall – and nearby the effort, with accommodation in
stone axe that may have killed her. The comfortable thatched cabins
cave is certainly worth the high price of (5 ), a treehouse (4 ), and dorm
a tour; note, though, that you’ll need to rooms (3 ) most with shared
be pretty fit and able to swim to do the bath, perched above a rushing,
trip; for much of the time you’re wading crystal-clear creek. For US$25 more
knee- or even chest-deep in water. per night, all meals and a scheduled
pick-up from San Ignacio or Benque
Viejo are included. The staff can also
Barton Creek Cave arrange guided day-trips to local
Barton Creek Cave (tours around Maya ruins and natural sights.
US$40, including Bz$20 entry fee; you
98
and the trail, dedicated to a Maya bush the area, and there’s a restaurant serving good,
doctor (curandero), is fascinating: among home-made meals. Singles 5 , doubles 6
the plants here you’ll see the negrito tree, Clarissa Falls 2km along a signed track, to
the right off the Western Highway T824-3916,
whose bark was once sold in Europe for
Wwww.clarissafalls.com. Restful place on the
its weight in gold as a cure for dysen- river with simple, clean cabins (6 ) with private
tery. The Chaa Creek Natural History bathrooms, plus camping (2 ) with shared hot-

Belize
Centre, next to the Medicine Trail (daily water showers. There’s also a restaurant, and the
8am–5pm), offers a marvellous intro- staff can arrange a variety of tours.
duction to Cayo’s history, geography and
wildlife. A combined ticket for both the Mountain Pine Ridge

The west
above is Bz$18. At du Plooy’s resort, a few Forest Reserve
kilometres upstream from Chaa Creek,
the ambitious Belize Botanic Gardens South of San Ignacio, the MOUNTAIN
(daily 7am–5pm; Bz$10, guided tour PINE RIDGE FOREST RESERVE
Bz$20) aim to conserve many of Belize’s comprises a spectacular range of rolling
native plant species in small areas repre- hills, jagged peaks and gorges inter-
sentative of their habitats. spersed with areas of grassland and pine
forest. In the warm river valleys the
Most accommodation on the Macal
vegetation is gallery forest, giving way
River is in high-end resorts, though
to rainforest south of the Guacamallo
there is one less expensive option (see
Bridge, which crosses the upper Macal
box, p.101).
River. One of the most scenic of the
many small rivers in the Pine Ridge is
Along the Mopan River
the Río On, rushing over cataracts and
Rushing down from the Guatemalan
into a gorge. On the northern side of
border, the Mopan River offers some
the ridge are the Thousand-Foot Falls,
attractive and not too serious white-
actually over 1600ft (488m) and the
water rapids. Though there’s less
highest in Central America. The reserve
accommodation along the Mopan
also includes limestone areas riddled
branch of the Belize River than there is
with caves, the most accessible being the
along the Macal, what’s available is more
Río Frio. The area is virtually uninhab-
within reach of the budget traveller.
ited but for a few tourist lodges and one
The places listed below are in order of
small settlement, Augustine/Douglas
distance from San Ignacio. All of them
Silva, site of the reserve headquarters.
can arrange river trips, as well as trips
throughout Cayo.
What to see and do
Accommodation
Iguana Junction Bullet Tree Falls village centre, It can be very difficult to get around the
5km west of San Ignacio T 824-2249, Wwww reserve, as there are not many roads. A
.iguanajunction.com. Four wooden cabins with mountain bike can be very helpful in
private bath and four simple rooms with shared this respect – the whole area is perfect
showers in a riverside setting. Excellent home- for hiking and mountain biking;
cooked meals. Doubles 5 , cabins 6 hitching is another option.
Parrot Nest Bullet Tree Falls, at the end of the track
just before the bridge T820-4058, Wparrot-nest San Antonio
.com. Six cabins (two up a tree and one with private
Nestled in the Macal River valley, San
bath) set in beautiful gardens on the riverbank, with
shared, hot-water baths. Filling meals are available,
Antonio is the southernmost settle-
and there’s a free shuttle to Eva’s in San Ignacio. 7 ment outside the reserve. It’s a good
Riverside Lodge Bullet Tree Falls T820-4007, place to learn about traditional Maya
Wriversidelodgebelize.com. Simple cabins with practices: the village was the home of
private bath and fan are some of the cheapest in famous Maya healer Don Eligio Panti,
99
 and there’s a small, informal museum camp here and the village store has a
in the village, dedicated to his life and few basic supplies. The huge Río Frio
work. The Garcia sisters, Don Eligio’s Caves are a twenty-minute walk from
nieces, run the inexpensive Chichan Augustine/Douglas Silva, following
Ka Guest House (T 660-4023, E tanah the signposted track from the parking
[email protected]; 3 –5 ) on the road area through the forest to the main
Belize

approaching the village; buses from San cave. Sandy beaches and rocky cliffs
Ignacio stop outside. The sisters also line the Río Frio on both sides as it
serve traditional meals, offer courses flows through the cave.
in the gathering and use of medicinal
The west

plants and are also renowned for their Caracol

slate carvings – their gift shop has Beyond Augustine/Douglas Silva, the
become a favourite tour-group stop. Maya Mountains rise up to the south,
Nearby, the Tanah Museum has exhibits while to the west is the wild Vaca
on village life. plateau. Here the ruins of Caracol (daily
8am–4pm; Bz$15), the most magnifi-
The reserve cent Maya site in Belize, and one of the
Not far beyond San Antonio, the two largest in the Maya world, were lost for
entrance roads meet and begin a steady over a thousand years until their redis-
climb to the reserve. One kilometre covery in 1936. Two years later they
beyond the junction is a campsite (1 ) were explored by A.H. Anderson, who
run by Fidencio and Petronila Bol, who named the site Caracol – Spanish for
operate Bol’s Nature Tours; Fidencio “snail” – because of the large numbers
can guide you to several nearby caves. of snail shells found there. The first
About 5km uphill from the campsite is detailed, full-scale excavation of the site
the Mai Gate, a checkpoint with infor- began in 1985, and research and resto-
mation about the reserve, toilets and ration continues today.
drinking water. There are plans to levy Most arrive with a guided tour from San
an entrance fee, but for the moment all Ignacio (see p.94), as there is no public
the guards do is write your name in the transportation to, or even near, the site.
visitors’ book (to ensure against illegal If you manage to make it here on your
camping). own, you’ll be guided around by one of
Once in the reserve, pine trees replace the guards. The visitors’ centre is one of
the dense, leafy forest. After 3km a road the best at any Maya site in Belize and
heads off to the left, running for 16km to an essential first stop. Of the site itself,
a point overlooking the Thousand-Foot only the core of the city, comprising
Falls (Bz$2). The setting is spectacular, thirty-two large structures and twelve
with thickly forested slopes across the smaller ones grouped round five main
steep valley. The waterfall is about 1km plazas, is open to visitors – though even
from the viewpoint, but try to resist the this is far more than you can effectively
temptation to climb around for a closer see in a day. The most massive structure,
look, as the slope is a lot steeper than it Caana (“Sky Place”) is 42m high and
first appears. still one of the tallest buildings in Belize.
Around 11km farther on from the Hieroglyphic inscriptions here have
junction to the falls lies one of the enabled epigraphers to piece together
reserve’s main attractions, the Río a virtually complete dynastic record of
On Pools – a gorgeous spot for a Caracol’s rulers from 599 AD. One altar
swim. Another 8km from here and records a victory over Tikal in 562 AD
you reach the reserve headquarters – a triumph that sealed the city’s rise to
at Augustine/Douglas Silva. You can power.
100
 into Guatemala: Benque Viejo del Carmen
The westernmost town in Belize, 2km before the Guatemalan border, is Benque
Viejo del Carmen. This quiet town is served by constant buses (which terminate
here); to get to the border itself you’ll need to take a shared taxi (Bz$2).
Leaving Belize you pay an exit tax of Bz$30, plus the PACT Conservation fee

Belize
of Bz$7.50. There’s no charge to enter Guatemala for North Americans or citizens
of the EU, Australia and New Zealand; if you do require a visa (up to US$10), they
can sometimes be issued here, though it’s a good idea to check if you need one
in advance. The Guatemalan border town of Melchor de Mencos has little to
recommend it, so it is best to continue as soon as you’re ready. Moneychangers

The west
will be waiting on either side of the border, though you might want to bargain with
them to get the best rate.
Minibuses (US$10–15) to Flores or Tikal will likely be waiting just over the border,
and colectivo minibuses to Flores will be waiting just over the bridge at the border;
regular second-class buses pass the junction just beyond the bridge.

in the interior of Belize. There is no budget

Arrival and information accommodation, and none of the resorts allow
camping – the only options are Bol’s Nature Tours
Arrival There are two entrance roads to the
(see p.100) and in Augustine/Douglas Silva (see
Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, one from the village of
p.100).
Georgeville, on the Western Highway, and the other
from Santa Elena, along the Cristo Rey road and
through the village of San Antonio. If you’re fit, a good Xunantunich
way to get around is to rent a mountain bike in San On the Western Highway, around 12km
Ignacio; you can take it on the bus to San Antonio. west of San Ignacio, the quiet village of
There are also four Mesh buses a day (Mon–Sat) San José Succotz is home to the ruins
from San Ignacio to San Antonio via Cristo Rey.
of XUNANTUNICH (pronounced
Tours Tours can be arranged from San Ignacio (see
box, p.95).
Shun-an-tun-ich), “the Stone Maiden”
(daily 8am–5pm; Bz$10). This impres-
sive Maya site is also one of the most
Accommodation
accessible in Belize; any bus heading
The resorts in Mountain Pine Ridge include some of west from San Ignacio can drop you
the most luxurious and expensive accommodation at the old cable-winched ferry that
crosses the river (daily 8am–5pm;
free). From the other side, a steep road
treat yourself

Pine Ridge Lodge T 606-4557,

W www.pineridgelodge.com. If
leads through the forest for about two
you decide to splurge and stay kilometres to the site.
in the reserve, this lodge, on the Your first stop should be the visitors’
banks of Little Vaqueros Creek, centre, with a scale model of the
is one of the cheapest options ruins. The site itself, on an artificially
in the area and the most flattened hilltop, includes five plazas,
likely to be within the reach of although the surviving structures are
budget travellers. The simple grouped around just three. Recent
accommodation is in thatched
investigations have found evidence
or tiled-roof cabins set among
grounds with trees full of orchids and
of Xunantunich’s role in the power
trails leading to pristine waterfalls. politics of the Classic period, during
Continental breakfast is included, which it probably joined Caracol
and other meals are served at the and Calakmul in an alliance against
lodge’s excellent restaurant. 9 Tikal. By the Terminal Classic period,
Xunantunich was already in decline,
101
 though still apparently inhabited until most accessible area of rainforest is the
around 1000 AD. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary,
The track from the entrance brings a reserve designed to protect the area’s
you out into Plaza A-2, with large struc- sizeable jaguar population.
tures on three sides. Plaza A-1, to the
left, is dominated by El Castillo, at 40m The Hummingbird
Belize

the city’s tallest structure. The climb up Highway

can be daunting, but the views from the
top are superb, with the forest stretching Southeast from Belmopan, the
out all around and the rest of the ancient Hummingbird Highway heads towards
Dangriga, passing through magnificent
The south

city beneath you.

scenery. On the right the eastern slopes
of the Maya Mountains become visible,
Accommodation forming part of a ridge of limestone
The Trek Stop Signed on the left just before mountains riddled with underground
San José Succotz T823-2265, Wwww rivers and caves, several of which are
.thetrekstop.com. A wonderful budget place to stay, accessible.
with clean cabins (one with private bath) and a
campsite. The restaurant serves large portions and St Herman’s Cave
has good vegetarian choices, and there’s a shared About 19km out of Belmopan the road
kitchen, free wi-fi, and bikes, kayaks and tubes
crosses the Caves Branch River, a tribu-
available for rent. Next door is the well-designed
Tropical Wings Nature Center (daily 8am–5pm;
tary of the Sibun River. Just beyond, by
Bz$5). Camping 1 , singles 3 , doubles 4 –6 the roadside on the right, is St Herman’s
Cave (daily 8am–4.30pm; Bz$8, includes
entrance to the Blue Hole National Park,
see p.103). After paying the entrance

The south
fee at the visitors’ centre, a ten-minute
walk on a marked trail leads to the cave
entrance, located beneath a dripping
South of Belmopan lies Belize’s most rock face; you’ll need a flashlight to enter,
rugged terrain. Population density in heading down steps that were originally
this part of Belize is low, with most of cut by the Maya. Inside, clamber over
the towns and villages located on the the rocks and splash through the river
water. Dangriga, the largest settlement, for about 300m, admiring the stunning
is home to the Garífuna people and is natural formations, before the section of
the transportation hub for much of the the cave accessible without a guide ends.
region. Farther south, the Placencia To go further, consider hiring a guide (see
peninsula is the area’s focus for coastal p.103). Behind the visitors’ centre and
tourism, boasting some of Belize’s only
true beaches, and is also the departure
treat yourself

Caves Branch Jungle Lodge

point for the south’s idyllic cayes. The Between St Herman’s Cave
Southern Highway comes to an end in and the Blue Hole, about 1km
Punta Gorda, from where you can head from the highway T822-2800,
to Guatemala or visit ancient Maya sites W www.cavesbranch.com.
and present-day Maya villages. To fully appreciate caving in
Belize, consider staying here
Inland, the Maya Mountains form
– there’s a variety of excellent
a solid barrier to land travel except on accommodation, but it’s the
foot or horseback. The Belizean govern- tours on offer that really make
ment, showing supreme foresight, has it worth the splurge. Camping 1 ,
placed practically the whole massif bunkhouse 3 , cabañas 9
under some form of protection. The
102
cave, trails lead through the surrounding Dangriga
forest and, after 4km, to a campsite. All From the junction of the Humming-
buses between Belmopan and Dangriga bird and Southern highways, it’s 10km
can drop you at St Herman’s Cave or the to DANGRIGA (formerly known as
Blue Hole. Stann Creek), the district capital and
the largest town in southern Belize.

Belize
Blue Hole National Park Dangriga is the cultural centre of the
Two kilometres past St Herman’s Cave, Garífuna, a people of mixed indige-
accessible from the highway or via a nous Caribbean and African descent,
marked trail from the visitors’ centre, who overall make up about eleven

The south
is Blue Hole National Park, centred on percent of the country’s population.
a beautiful pool whose cool turquoise The town is also home to some of the
waters are perfect for a refreshing dip. country’s most popular artists,
The “Hole” is actually a short stretch including painters and drum-makers,
of underground river, whose course is and you may catch an exhibition or
revealed by a collapsed cavern. Other performance. Still, for most travellers
trails depart from here, including the the town is of little interest
Hummingbird Loop. unless you’re here during a festival,
The guided cave and rappelling though it makes a very useful base for
trips run by Caves Branch Jungle Lodge visiting Tobacco Caye offshore and
(see p.102) aren’t cheap (from US$85 the Jaguar Reserve near Hopkins
per person), but well worth it for the (see p.106).
experience. Many of the caves contain
Maya artefacts – burials, ceramics and
carvings. The best independent guide
Arrival and information
to the area is Marcos Cucul, based By air Dangriga’s airstrip, served by at least eight
in Belmopan (T 600-3116, W www daily flights on the run from Belize City to Punta
.mayaguide.bz). Gorda, is on the shore just north of the Pelican

the Garífuna
The Garífuna trace their history to the island of St Vincent, in the eastern Caribbean,
where two Spanish ships carrying slaves from Nigeria to America were wrecked
off the coast in 1635. The survivors took refuge on the island, which was inhabited
by Caribs, themselves recent arrivals from South America. At first the Caribs and
Africans fought, but the Caribs had been weakened by disease and wars against
the native Kalipuna, and eventually the predominant race became black with some
indigenous blood, known by the English as the Black Caribs, or Garífuna.
For most of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries St Vincent fell nominally
under British control, though in practice it belonged to the Garifuna, who fended
off British attempts to gain full control until 1796. The British colonial authorities,
however, would not allow a free black society, so the Carib population was hunted
down and transported to Roatán, off the coast of Honduras (see p.399). The
Spanish Commandante of Trujillo, on the Honduran mainland, took the surviving
Black Caribs to Trujillo, where they became in demand as free labourers, fishermen
and soldiers.
In the early nineteenth century small numbers of Garífuna moved up the
coast to Belize. The largest single migration took place in 1832, when thousands
fled from Honduras after they supported the wrong side in a failed revolution to
overthrow the government. It is this arrival that is today celebrated as Garífuna
Settlement Day (see p.64).

103
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Beach Hotel, 2km north of town; taxis into town Tourist information There’s no tourist office in
cost Bz$5–8. Dangriga, but the Riverside Restaurant (see p.105)
By bus NTSL and James buses pull up at the can answer questions on transport and local infor-
terminal 1km south of the centre. Though taxis are mation. The town’s website (Wwww.dangrigalive.bz)
usually available for Bz$3–5, all of the hotels we is also very helpful and has a downloadable map.
recommend are an easy 10–15min walk from the
terminal. Accommodation
Tour operators Island Expeditions, on the
Southern Foreshore, rents sea kayaks (singles Pal’s Guest House 868 Magoon St T522-2095,
Bz$70/day, doubles Bz$110/day), and also [email protected]. Quiet hotel set right on the beach
will shuttle you and your boat out to the nearby north of the creek. Basic, tiled rooms have private
cayes. baths and TVs. 4 –5
104
Riverside Hotel Commerce St, beside the
bridge T 522-2168. Very central hotel has clean into honduras:
rooms with shared bath and views over the Dangriga
river. 3
Ruthie’s Cabañas 31 Southern Foreshore T502- A fast skiff (T522-3227) leaves
3184. Two bargain, thatched cabañas on the beach Dangriga for Puerto Cortés,
with private bath and porch. Ruthie will cook meals Honduras, each Saturday at 9am

Belize
by arrangement. 5 (US$50; 3hr) from the north bank of
Val’s Backpackers Hostel 1 Sharp St, the river. Get there an hour before
near the beach T502-3324, Evalsbelize@ departure to deal with formalities.
yahoo.com. Though the dorms and private rooms

The south
in this concrete building are not the most attrac- By bus to: Belize City, mostly via Belmopan with
tive, they are clean, and the hostel offers same-day two weekly services via Gales Point (at least every
laundry service, an internet café, a book exchange, 2hr; 2–3hr); Placencia (4 daily; 2hr); Punta Gorda
ice cream and lovely views of the sea from its (6–8 daily; 3hr). The 10.30am and 4pm Placencia
veranda. Dorms 2 , doubles 4 buses also pass through Hopkins (30min) and
continue south via the Sittee River.
Eating and drinking
around dangriga
Despite Dangriga’s central position in Garífuna
culture, few restaurants specialize in Garífuna
Dangriga serves as the jumping-
cuisine, though some serve a few dishes – you’ll off point for two of the coast’s most
find it’s generally more readily available in Hopkins intriguing and least-visited sights,
(see p.106). including the small village of Gales
Point, where visitors can learn the art
Restaurants of traditional drumming, and Tobacco
J&D’s Culture Kitchen On Canal St. Small, local Caye, a tiny, stunning island located
restaurant serving Creole and Garífuna dishes,
right on the reef.
usually for Bz$8–12.
King Burger On Commerce St. Take-out and sit-
down restaurant popular with locals. Serves fast Gales Point
food, Belizean cuisine and seafood for Bz$4–10. Fourteen kilometres along the
Riverside Restaurant On the south bank of the Hummingbird Highway back towards
river by the bridge. Serves tasty Creole cuisine, Belmopan from Dangriga, a coastal
including great breakfasts and a daily special, road heads north to the small Creole
for Bz$8–25. Also a great place to find tourist village of Gales Point. The village strag-
information.
gles along a narrow peninsula that juts
into the Southern Lagoon, a large,
Directory shallow body of water which – along
Exchange Banks are on St Vincent St. Approaching
with Northern Lagoon, to which it’s
the river from the south, the Atlantic Bank is on your connected – comprises Gales Point
right, and the Belize Bank is on your left; both have Wildlife Sanctuary, a breeding ground
24hr ATMs. for rare wildlife, including jabiru storks,
Internet The internet café in Val’s Backpackers turtles, manatee and crocodiles. The
charges Bz$4/hr. area is bounded to the west by limestone
Laundry Val’s Backpackers has a same-day drop- hills, riddled with caves and cloaked with
off laundry service. mangroves. Gales Point is also a centre
Post office On Mahogany St at Ganey St.
of traditional drum-making; you can
learn to make and play drums at the
Moving on Maroon Creole Drum School (T 603-
By boat Boats to Tobacco Caye (40min; Bz$35)
6051, E [email protected]).
leave from the bridge near the Riverside Restaurant, Several houses in Gales Point offer
though there are no scheduled departures; ask in simple rooms, including Ionie’s (T 220-
the restaurant for Captain Buck. 8066; 3), which has five simple rooms
105
 with shared bath and fans, and where you bay, is home to upwards of a thousand
can arrange meals; it’s in the first shop as Garífuna. Garífuna Settlement Day,
you enter the village. Metho’s Coconut on November 19, is celebrated enthu-
Camping (1) has space in a sandy spot in siastically here, but at other times it’s
the northern part of the village. a very quiet, pleasant place to spend a
Gales Point is served by two weekly few days relaxing. Hotels, cabañas and
Belize

buses in each direction on the Coastal resorts line the beach, though you will
Road, usually leaving Belize City and rarely see other tourists in town. You
Dangriga on Mondays and Fridays; other can rent kayaks at Kismet Inn (Bz$30)
traffic passes the junction, 4km from the – the lagoon just north of the village is
The south

village, and hitching is relatively easy. a great place for kayaking; windsurfing
equipment at Windschief; and bicycles
Tobacco Caye (Bz$20/day) from Tina’s Bike Rental, on
About 20km offshore from Dangriga is the road toward the village’s south end.
Columbus Reef, a superb section of the Many hotels can also arrange snorkel-
Barrier Reef. Tobacco Caye, idyllically ling or diving trips to the reef and cayes
perched on its southern tip, is the easiest farther out.
of the cayes in the area to visit and has
a number of places to stay. The island is Arrival
tiny: stand in the centre and you’re only
By bus The 10.30am and 4pm buses from
a couple of minutes from the shore in
Dangriga make a loop around town before heading
any direction, with the unbroken reef south to the Sittee River; let the bus driver know
stretching north for miles. The reef is so beforehand where you want to get off. Alternatively,
close to shore that you won’t need a boat any bus on the Southern Highway can drop you
to go snorkelling or diving, and several at the turn-off to the village, from where it’s quite
of the resorts, including Reef ’s End Lodge, easy and common to hitch a ride into town. There
have dive shops that rent gear even to are no street names in Hopkins; the main point
those who are not guests; snorkelling gear of reference is where the road from the Southern
Highway enters the village – dividing Hopkins into
costs US$7.50 and diving gear US$25.
north and south – and signs point the way to the
Boats (40min; Bz$35) leave daily
many hotels and restaurants.
from near the bridge in Dangriga,
though there are no scheduled depar-
tures; ask at the Riverside Restaurant for
Accommodation
Captain Buck. Though accommodation Kismet Inn On the beach, just past the
on the caye is simple, it remains quite north end of the village T 523-7280,
expensive; however, all places to stay W www.kismetinn.com. A quirky, social hotel with
include three meals. The best-value several thatched cabañas with private bathrooms,
choices are Gaviota Coral Reef Resort as well as budget rooms with shared bath in
(T 509-5032; 5 ), which offers cabins a wooden house designed to resemble a ship.
Breakfast (Bz$7) includes home-made bread,
on the sand and less expensive rooms in
coffee and fresh fruit; lunch and dinner can be
the main building, all with shared bath, arranged. There’s also free bike use and kayak
and Tobacco Caye Paradise (T 520- rental. Camping 1 , singles 3 , doubles 4
5101, E [email protected]; doubles 4 , Tania’s Guest House South of the centre, just past
cabañas 5 ), with simple, shared-bath the basketball court T523-7058, Etaniaprim
rooms in a wooden house and cabañas @yahoo.com. Exceptionally friendly staff offers
overlooking the sea. clean, basic rooms with private bath in wooden
building. Singles 3 , doubles 4
Windschief On the beach, south of the centre
Hopkins T523-7249, Wwww.windschief.com. Two simple
The small village of HOPKINS, south cabins, one with a double bed (4 ) and the other
of Dangriga and stretching along a with two double beds and a fridge (6 ). Both have
106
private bath with cold-water showers and coffee- Glover’s is something of an anomaly
makers. There’s also a shared hot-water shower among the remote atolls: it offers
and free wi-fi. Windsurfing lessons Bz$60/hr, rental accommodation within the reach of
Bz$60/day.
budget travellers at Glover’s Atoll Resort
(T 520-5016, W www.glovers.com.bz), on
Eating Northeast Caye. Thatched cabins over

Belize
Though your choice may be limited out of the
the water or on the beach (9 ) overlook
tourist season, the village has enough restau- the reef, or there are dorm beds (9 ) in a
rants and bars that you’ll always find good, wooden house and camping space (9);
simple Garífuna and Creole meals, though in all rates are weekly, and include trans-

The south
many establishments you’ll simply get a serving port from Sittee River in the resort’s
of whatever has been made for that meal, as boat (leaves Sun 9am, returns following
opposed to choosing from a menu. Sat; 3hr). Meals are not included, so you
Iris Restaurant at the southern end of the village. can either bring your own food or eat
Good Belizean cuisine and fast food, as well as at the restaurant. The staff pretty much
large breakfasts, for Bz$4–10.
leaves you to your own devices – you can
Laruni Hatie Beyabu Restaurant north of the
centre, on the beach. Popular, thatched restaurant
choose to enjoy the simple desert-island
with a beautiful view of the sea serves large experience or take part in activities
portions of Belizean and Garifuna cuisine, usually (paid for separately), including sailing,
for around Bz$7. sea kayaking, fishing, snorkelling and
Watering Hole at the southern end of the village, diving (including dive training), which is
next to Iris Restaurant. One of the best restaurants spectacular, thanks to a huge underwater
in the village, dishes up great seafood and Belizean cliff and some tremendous wall-diving.
cuisine for Bz$8–12.
Cockscomb Basin
Drinking and entertainment Wildlife Sanctuary
For a drink with the locals, head to King Cassava, Back on the mainland, the jagged peaks
which often has live music on the weekends. On of the Maya Mountains rise to the west
most nights, the Lebeha Drumming Center (Wwww of the Southern Highway. The tallest
.lebeha.com), at the northern end of the village, summits are those of the Cockscomb
hosts a performance of Garífuna drumming; stop by
range, which includes Victoria Peak
in advance to check the schedule.
(1120m), the second highest mountain
in Belize. Beneath the ridges is a vast
Glover’s Reef bowl of stunning rainforest, over four
GLOVER’S REEF, the southernmost hundred square kilometres of which
of Belize’s three coral atolls, lies around is protected by the COCKSCOMB
40km off the coast from Hopkins. BASIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Roughly oval in shape, it stretches 35km – better known as the Jaguar Reserve
north to south, with a number of cayes (daily 7.30am–4.30pm; Bz$10). The
in its southeastern section. Famous for basin could be home to as many as
its wall diving, which is thought to be sixty of Belize’s 800-strong jaguar
among the best in the world, the atoll population, and though you’ll almost
also hosts a stunning lagoon, which certainly come across their tracks, your
offers spectacular snorkelling and chances of actually seeing one are very
diving, as well as a staggering diversity slim, as they are mainly active at night
of wildlife. The entire atoll is a marine and avoid humans. Over 290 species
reserve (Bz$20 entry fee, usually of birds have also been recorded
payable to your accommodation or here, including the endangered scarlet
tour guide), with a research station on macaw, the great curassow and the
Middle Caye. king vulture.
107
 The sanctuary is at the end of a rough also has several inexpensive places to stay, all
ten-kilometre road that branches off the of which can arrange meals, tours, guides and
main highway at the village of Maya transport.
Centre, runs through towering forest and
In Maya Centre
fords a couple of streams before crossing Nu’uk Che’il Cottages 500m up the track
the Cabbage Hall Gap and entering the to the reserve T520-3033, Enuukcheil
Belize

Cockscomb Basin. Here, you’ll find @btl.net. Delightful rooms with private bath and a
the sanctuary headquarters, where large wooden cabin with shared showers and dorm
you can pick up maps of the reserve. beds (2 ), as well as double beds (4 ). The restau-
Beyond the headquarters, a system of rant serves excellent Maya cuisine (Bz$5–15), and
The south

very well-maintained trails of varying the owner has developed a medicinal plant trail
lengths winds through tropical moist out back. 5
Tutzil Nah Cottages On the highway just before
forest, crossing streams and leading to
the junction T520-3044, Wwww.mayacenter
a number of picturesque waterfalls and .com. Two clean cabins, one wood and one
ridges. For those who have the time concrete, house four rooms with shared bath.
– and have made the necessary prepara- Run by the Chun brothers, excellent guides to the
tions – it is also possible to take the four- reserve. Out front, the family also runs a small
or five-day hike and climb to the summit grocery store. Singles 3 , doubles 4
of Victoria Peak. If you’re looking for a
more relaxing experience, however, you Placencia
can float down South Stann Creek in an Sixteen kilometres south of Maya
inner tube, available for rent (Bz$5 per Centre, a dirt road cuts east from the
day) at the headquarters. Southern Highway, heading through
pine forest and banana plantations
Arrival and information before reaching the sea and snaking
south down the narrow Placencia
By bus All between Dangriga and Punta Gorda
pass Maya Centre. If visiting the reserve, you Peninsula, immensely popular for its
need to sign in and pay the entrance fee at the sandy beaches, which are among the
craft centre at the junction of the road leading up best in Belize. Though accommoda-
to the Cockscomb. From the craft centre in Maya tion throughout most of the peninsula,
Centre, you can catch a ride with a taxi or truck to including the villages of Maya Beach and
the reserve headquarters; this usually costs about Seine Bight, is limited to upscale resorts
Bz$35–40 for up to 5 people. The 10km walk to the and hotels, PLACENCIA village itself
reserve from this point, however, is relatively easy
has an abundance of budget options.
and should only take several hours.
Internet Julio’s Store, just beyond the intersection,
Shaded by palm trees and cooled by the
sells basic supplies and cold drinks (there’s no sea breeze, it’s a great place to relax.
shop in the reserve), and it’s also a bar with internet
access. The owner runs Cockscomb Maya Tours What to see and do
(T 520-3042, [email protected]) and can
arrange guides and transport into the reserve. Apart from simply hanging out on the
beach, Placencia is a good, if expensive,
Accommodation base for snorkelling and diving trips to
the southern cayes and reef or a day-trip
The reserve headquarters offers a variety of accom- to the Monkey River.
modation, including private furnished cabins for
four or six people (7 ), wooden dorm rooms with
showers (4 ) and a more “rustic” cabin with dorm
Diving and snorkelling
beds (2 ). Camping space (1 ) is available, though Diving options from Placencia are
you can also camp (1 ) at two other designated excellent, but the distance to most
sites along the trails, for which you’ll need to get a dive sites (at least 30km) means that
permit at the reserve headquarters. Maya Centre trips here can be more expensive than
108
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109
 elsewhere. Trips usually cost around Arrival and information
US$90 for a two-tank dive, and US$350
for open-water certification. You could By air Maya Island Air and Tropic Air fly to Placencia
visit uninhabited Laughing Bird Caye from Belize City (about 45min). Taxis are usually
National Park, beyond which lie the waiting to take you the 3km from the airstrip to the
exquisite Silk Cayes, where the Barrier village, or someone in the airport can call one for you.
By boat Most boats arriving from Independ-
Belize

Reef begins to break into several smaller

ence/Mango Creek or Puerto Cortés, Honduras pull
reefs and cayes, or nearby Gladden Spit, into the Gas Station Dock, located at the southern
now a marine reserve created to protect edge of town; some, however, stop instead at the
the enormous whale shark. Kingfishes dock, located on the northwest edge of
The south

town. Both are within 10–15min walking distance

Other activities of any of the recommended hotels.
Other trips from Placencia can include By bus Four daily buses (10.30am, 11.30am, 4pm,
and 5pm) run from Dangriga to Placencia, pulling in
anything from an afternoon on the water
at the petrol station near the beach at the southern
to a week of camping, fishing and sailing. end of the village.
For excellent four- to six-day river and Tour operators For snorkelling, Sea Horse Dive
sea kayaking tours, head to Toadal Shop (t523-3166, wbelizescuba.com) offers the
Adventure (see opposite). For day- best instruction, excursions and equipment rental.
trips inland, including trips to Maya Nite Wind Guides (t523-3847, edoylegardiner
ruins, caves and the Cockscomb Basin @yahoo.com) and Ocean Motion Guides (t523-
Wildlife Sanctuary (see p.107), check 3363, [email protected]) also do snorkelling
and manatee-watching trips. Dave Vernon, of Toadal
with Sea Horse Dive Shop (see opposite)
Adventure (t523-3207, wtoadaladventure.com),
or Trip ‘N Travel (see opposite). If you runs sea kayaking trips, and Evaristo Muschamp at
don’t want a tour, Placencia’s lagoon is Trip ‘N Travel (t523-3205 or 3614. Elgodfrey
ideal for exploring in a canoe or kayak @btl.net) runs trips down the Monkey River.
(Bz$70–80 per day, which you can rent Tourist information The Placencia Tourism Center
from Dave Vernon or a number of (Mon–Fri 9–11.30am and 1–5pm; T523-4045,
hotels, including Seaspray), where it’s W www.placencia.com) is likely Belize’s best
possible to spot manatees. You can also tourist office. It also distributes Placencia Breeze,
an excellent local newspaper filled with transport
snorkel near Placencia Island, just off
schedules, local listings and a good map of the
the tip of the peninsula; here you’ll see village and peninsula.
a variety of fish and some coral.
Accommodation
Monkey River
One of the best inland day-trips There are numerous inexpensive accommoda-
from Placencia takes you by boat to tion options in Placencia. Most budget rooms are
the virtually pristine Monkey River, clustered around the northern end of the Sidewalk.
Deb & Dave’s Last Resort On the road, near
which teems with fish, birdlife, iguanas
the centre T523-3207, Edebanddave
and, as the name suggests, howler @btl.net. The best budget place in the village,
monkeys. The 20km, thirty-minute offering clean, colourful rooms with shared hot-water
dash through the waves is followed by bath in a beautiful garden. Kayaks for rent and
a leisurely glide up the river and a walk excellent tours arranged. Singles 4, doubles 4
along forest trails. The tour opera- Julia’s Rooms On the Sidewalk just north of
tors opposite can all arrange trips the centre T 503-3478, E juliasrooms
(US$60), or you could contact Evaristo @juliasrooms.com. Two rooms with private baths,
and cabañas with TVs, fridges and coffeemakers.
Muschamp, a very experienced local
Drop-off laundry service available. Doubles 6 ,
guide, at Trip ‘N Travel (see opposite), cabañas 4
near the south end of the village. You Lydia’s Guest House Near the north end of the
can get a meal in Alice’s Restaurant in Sidewalk T523-3117, [email protected]. Clean,
Monkey River village. secure and affordable rooms, all sharing
110
immaculate bathrooms, in a quiet location near the Purple Space Monkey Café On the road opposite
beach. Lydia cooks breakfast on request and rents the sports field. Offers good coffee, breakfasts,
kayaks. Singles 4 , doubles 5 burgers, sandwiches and seafood. Though dinner
Omar’s Guest House On the Sidewalk in the is quite expensive (Bz$27–40), breakfast and lunch
centre T600-8421. Very simple rooms with shared are very reasonable (Bz$4–12). There’s also an
baths. Although beds in the dorm room (3 ) are a internet café and paperback exchange inside.
bit expensive, you get a discount for multiple-night Secret Garden Opposite the sports field. Set

Belize
stays. There’s a shared fridge and a restaurant back from the road in a quiet, secluded spot, this
downstairs. 4 coffeehouse and spa serves great breakfasts and
Seaspray Hotel On the beach, in the centre of the fresh seafood.
village T523-3148, Wwww.seasprayhotel.com. The Shak On the road south of the centre. Small,

The south
Popular, well-run hotel in a great location, with a outdoor restaurant serving delicious smoothies
variety of excellent accommodation, all with private made right in front of you, as well as healthy salads
bath and fridge and some with TV, kitchenette and and breakfasts for Bz$6–12. Closed Sun.
balcony. There are hammocks on the beach and
kayaks for rent. 5 –7 Drinking and nightlife
The Yellow House In the centre of the village,
between the road and the Sidewalk T523-3047, Although most of the restaurants also serve drinks,
E [email protected]. Bargain rooms, all with there are a few places with live music and more of
private bath and some with fridge, in a bright yellow a bar atmosphere.
wooden building with balcony and hammocks.
Deals on multiple-night stays. 5 Bars
Barefoot Beach Bar Off the Sidewalk near the
Eating beach. Very popular bar serving great cocktails
(happy hour 6–7pm). Open late most nights.
There are plenty of good restaurants in Placencia, Cozy Corner Beach Bar & Grill On the beach.
but establishments change management fast, so Lively bar and restaurant that is often packed and
ask locally for the latest recommendations. Most sometimes hosts live music on weekends.
places close early and you’ll certainly have a better J-Byrd Bar Near the south dock. A great place to
choice if you’re at the table by 8pm. Fresh bread is meet local characters and sometimes catch live
available from John The Bakerman near the centre music.
of the Sidewalk. Sugar Reef Sunset Lounge On Sunset Drive, at
the southwest tip of the island. Features a daily
Restaurants happy hour, bar games, karaoke and either a DJ or
BJ’s Restaurant On the road just past the sports a live band.
field. Great Belizean cuisine at very inexpensive
prices; most mains are Bz$8–12. Directory
De Tatch Café On the beach, just past
Seaspray Hotel. Excellent international and Exchange The Atlantic Bank (with 24hr ATM), near
Belizean cuisine and seafood, served in a quiet, the petrol station, can give cash advances. They have
open-air restaurant right by the sea. There’s a lunch a second ATM on the road near the tourist office.
special for Bz$10 and a dinner special for Bz$25, as Internet Many restaurants, including De Tatch and
well as internet access. Other mains Bz$10–30. Purple Space Monkey, have small internet cafés.
Gelateria Tutti Frutti Near the southern Placencia Office Supply, on the road south of the
end of the road. Without a doubt the best centre, has numerous computers and a reliable
ice cream in Belize, available in literally dozens of connection.
flavours for Bz$4 and up. Closed Wed. Laundry Julia’s Rooms has a drop-off laundry
Omar’s Diner On the Sidewalk in the centre. Very service.
inexpensive, small restaurant serving filling break- Post office On the end of the Sidewalk.
fasts, Mexican cuisine and seafood. Breakfast and
lunch Bz$7–16, dinner Bz$16–40. Moving on
Pickled Parrot Bar & Grill Set back from the road
near the centre. Popular, open-air restaurant and By air Belize City (45min); Dangriga (20min).
bar featuring fresh seafood, pizza, and international By boat The Hokey Pokey ferry (6–7 daily; 20min)
dishes, as well as fantastic blended cocktails. departs from either the Main Dock near the petrol
Mains Bz$14–40. Closed Sun. station or the Kingfisher Dock on the lagoon for
111
 Independence/Mango Creek, where buses on the Tranquility Lodge In Jacintoville, 10km south of
Dangriga–Punta Gorda line are usually timed to the Dump junction Wwww.tranquility-lodge
meet the ferry. The fast skiff Gulf Cruza leaves .com. Set in gardens on the bank of Jacinto Creek,
Placencia for Puerto Cortés in Honduras (T202- the lodge offers a/c comfort in spacious en-suite
4506; US$50; 4hr) every Fri at 9.30am. rooms. The restaurant upstairs provides great
By bus to: Dangriga (4 daily, usually at 5am, 6am, views, and the creek is perfect for a dip. 7
1.30pm and 2pm; 2hr).
Belize

Punta Gorda
the far south The Southern Highway comes to an end
Beyond Independence, the Southern in PUNTA GORDA, the heart of the
Highway leaves the banana planta- still isolated Toledo District. The town is
The south

tions, first twisting through pine forests, populated by a mixture of six thousand
crossing numerous creeks and rivers, Creoles, Garífuna and Maya – who make
and arriving in the sparsely populated up more than half the population of the
Toledo District, Belize’s least developed district – and is the focal point for a large
region. Here, the Mopan and Kekchi, number of villages and farming settle-
the country’s two main Maya groups, ments. The busiest day in town is Saturday,
comprise almost half the population. when people from the surrounding
About 73km from the Placencia junction villages come to trade. Though there’s
lies Nim Li Punit (daily 9am–5pm; little to see at other times in Punta Gorda,
Bz$10), a Late Classic Maya site, possibly the town is very laid-back and has a lovely
allied to nearby Lubaantun and to shoreline; primarily, though, it makes an
Quiriguá in Guatemala (see p.200). The excellent base from which to explore the
ruins stand on top of a ridge, surrounded nearby Maya villages and ruins.
by the fields of the nearby Maya village
of Indian Creek. The visitors’ centre Arrival and information
has a good map of the site and explana-
tions of some of the carved texts found By air Maya Island Air and Tropic Air both operate
here, which include eight stelae, among 4–5 daily flights from Belize City (via Dangriga and
them Stela 15, at over 9m the tallest yet Placencia), landing at the airstrip five blocks west of
the main dock and a 5–10min walk from any of the
found in Belize. The site is only 1km off
recommended hotels.
the highway, making it an easy day-trip By boat Skiffs from Puerto Barrios and Lívingston,
from Punta Gorda. Guatemala use the main dock, near the centre of
the seafront.
Accommodation By bus Buses from Belize City (5–7hr) via
Dangriga (3hr) circle the town, usually stopping
If you’re looking to be isolated in Toledo’s wilder- at the petrol station at the northeast edge of the
ness, there are several good places to stay along centre, which is within easy walking distance of
the southern highway, located along the final 22 all the recommended hotels – though you usually
kilometres to Punta Gorda. can convince the bus driver to drop you anywhere
Casa Bonita Apartments In Cattle Landing, 3km within the centre.
north of Punta Gorda T722-2270, Ecba4cnn@btl Tour operators The local TIDE (Toledo Institute
.net. A good range of furnished, private apartments for Development and the Environment; T 722-
in a concrete building facing the sea. Discounts for 2192, Wwww.tidetours.org) is involved with many
students, and meals can be arranged. 6 –8 conservation projects and also offers mountain-bike
Sun Creek Lodge In Sun Creek, 3km south of and kayak tours and camping trips to Payne’s Creek
the Dump junction T 614-2080, W www National Park.
.suncreeklodge.com. Five beautiful thatched Tourist information The staff at the excellent
cabañas, all with electricity, but only one with tourist information office, on Front St and run by the
private bath. One of the owners knows the Belize Tourism Industry Association (T722-2531),
area exceptionally well and can organize tours. can help with transportation schedules and assist
Internet access available and breakfast included. in setting up tours of the outlying cayes and sites in
Cabañas 6 –7 Toledo District.
112
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dorms overlooking the sea have shared baths

Accommodation and cold showers. Serves breakfast and has a
Accommodation in Punta Gorda is generally paperback exchange. 4
inexpensive. For an alternative to staying in town, Pallavi’s Hotel 19 Main St T702-2414,
contact Nature’s Way Guest House which operates [email protected]. Clean, tiled rooms
a programme of guesthouse accommodation in with private bath in the centre of town. Singles 4 ,
surrounding villages in conjunction with the Toledo doubles 5
Ecotourism Association (TEA). St Charles Inn 23 King St T722-2149,
Charlton’s Inn 9 Main St T722-2197, [email protected]. One of Punta Gorda’s smartest
E [email protected]. Rooms with private, options, with very friendly staff. All rooms have
hot-water showers (most with a/c) in a two-storey private bath, and most have TV and a/c. 4 –5
concrete building. Singles 4 –6 , doubles 5 –7 Tate’s Guest House 34 José María Nuñez St,
Nature’s Way Guest House 65 Front two blocks west of the town centre T 722-0417,
St T 702-2119. The best budget place [email protected]. Quiet, friendly
in Punta Gorda and a good place to meet other family-run hotel. All rooms have private bath and TV
travellers and get information. Clean rooms and and some have a/c. Singles 5 , 5 –6
113
 sights, including the beautiful and
Eating
tranquil islands of the Port Honduras
It’s easy to get a good, filling meal in Punta Gorda Marine Reserve, the Mayan ruins of
for a reasonable price. Labaantun and Uxbenka, and tradi-
tional Mayan villages such as San
Restaurants Antonio.
El Café North St, behind Charlton’s Inn. Small,
Belize

bright restaurant serving good breakfasts, pastries,

Port Honduras Marine
burgers and Belizean cuisine for Bz$3–12.
Emery’s Restaurant At the northern end of Main Reserve
St. Excellent, fresh seafood and international Six hundred square kilometres of
The south

cuisine in a large, open-air restaurant. the bay and coast north of Punta
Grace’s Restaurant 19 Main St. Good, basic Gorda are now protected as the Port
Belizean fare in clean, tiled surroundings. Honduras Marine Reserve, partly to
Marian’s Bay View Restaurant On Front St, safeguard the many manatees living
across from Nature’s Way. Large restaurant on the and breeding there. The main reef has
third floor of a concrete building with a beautiful
started to break up here, leaving several
view over the sea. Choose from a small menu of
fresh Belizean cuisine (Bz$8–12). Breakfast served
clusters of islands, each surrounded by
on request. a small independent reef. Hundreds of
these tiny islands lie in the mouth of a
large bay, whose shoreline is a maze of
Directory
mangrove swamps.
Exchange Belize Bank (with ATM) is on the main North of Punta Gorda are the Snake
square across from the Civic Center. There will Cayes, idyllic and uninhabited Carib-
usually be a moneychanger outside the immigra- bean islands that draw a small number
tion office when international boats are coming of visitors for their stunning beaches.
and going, and you can change money in Grace’s Farther out in the Gulf of Honduras
Restaurant.
are the Sapodilla Cayes, now a marine
Internet V-Comp (Mon–Sat 8am–8pm), on Main St,
charges Bz$4/hr.
reserve (Bz$20 entrance fee), of which
Post office In the government buildings a block the largest caye, Hunting Caye, is
back from the ferry dock. frequented by Guatemalan as well as
Belizean day-trippers; though most
Moving on visitors simply choose to relax on the
beach, the reef, located only several
By air Maya Island Air and Tropic Air operate hundred metres offshore, provides
4–5 daily flights to Belize City via Dangriga and excellent opportunities for snorkellers.
Placencia. Some of these islands already have
By boat Departures daily to: Puerto Barrios, accommodation, and more resorts are
Guatemala (Bz$35; 1hr) at 9am, 2pm, and 4pm;
planned, though at present the cayes
Lívingston, Guatemala (Bz$40; 1hr) at 10am.
By bus to: Belize City via Dangriga and Belmopan
and reserve receive relatively few foreign
(12 daily; 5–7hr); the express bus departs at 6am visitors and are fascinating to explore on
from the petrol station. Buses to the Maya villages a day-trip from Punta Gorda; contact
leave from the market area, usually around noon: TIDE (see tour operators, p.112) for
San Antonio (2 daily); San Pedro Columbia (for more information on how to visit the
Labaantun; 4 per week); Jalacte and Pueblo Viejo reserve and cayes.
(for Uxbenka; 4–8 per week).
San Antonio
Around Punta Gorda Perched on a small hilltop, the Mopan
As the only transportation hub in the Maya village of San Antonio is one of
far south, Punta Gorda serves as an the only towns served by daily buses
important base for all of the region’s from Punta Gorda (usually Mon–Sat
114
only). The founders of San Antonio Cruz, which is served by four weekly
came from the village of San Luis, just buses, the ruins of Uxbenka, a small
across the border in Guatemala, and Maya site, are superbly positioned on
they maintain many age-old traditions, an exposed hilltop with great views
including their patron saint, San Luis towards the coast. As you climb the
Rey, whose beautiful church stands in hill before the village you’ll be able

Belize
the centre of the village. to make out the shape of two tree-
The area around San Antonio is rich covered mounds and a plaza, and there
in wildlife, dominated by jungle-clad are several stelae protected by thatched
hills and swift-flowing rivers. Though shelters.

The south
most visitors come to town to relax If you do make it out here you can enjoy
and to learn about Maya village life, some wonderful waterfalls within easy
this stunning region also provides reach of the road. Between Santa Cruz
excellent hiking opportunities. In and Santa Elena, the Rio Blanco Falls
town, Bol’s Hill Top Hotel (community tumble over a rocky ledge into a deep
phone T 702-2144; 3 ), offers basic pool, and at Pueblo Viejo, 7km further
rooms with shared bath and superb on, an impressive series of cascades
views, and is a good place to get infor- provides a spectacular sight. Trucks
mation on local natural history and and buses continue 13km further west
archeology. to Jalacte, at the Guatemalan border,
used regularly as a crossing point by
Blue Creek nationals of both countries, though it’s
About 4km back towards Punta Gorda, not currently a legal entry or exit point
and down a branch road heading south- for tourists.
west, lies the village of Blue Creek,
whose main attraction is a beautiful Lubaantun
stretch of water running through The Maya site of Lubaantun (daily
magnificent rainforest. To get to the best 8am–5pm; Bz$10) is an easy visit
swimming spot, a lovely turquoise pool, from Punta Gorda via the bus to San
walk ten minutes upriver along the right- Pedro Columbia. To get to the ruins,
hand bank. Near the pool is Blue Creek head through the village and cross the
Rainforest Lodge (T 523-7076, W www Columbia River; just beyond you’ll see
.ize2belize.com; 7 ), which has bunk-bed the track to the ruins, a few hundred
accommodation in six wooden cabins metres away on the left. Some of the
with porches overlooking the creek. finds made at the site are displayed
Though expensive, the price includes in glass cases at the visitors’ centre,
three daily meals and two daily activi- including astonishing, eccentric flints
ties, making the lodge a good deal. Alter- and ceramics.
natively, you could try to rent a room in Lubaantun (“Place of the Fallen
the village. The creek’s source, Hokeb Stones”) was a major Late Classic Maya
Ha cave, is another fifteen minutes’ walk centre, though it was occupied only
upriver through the privately owned briefly, likely from around 750 to 890
Blue Creek Rainforest Reserve. A AD. The ruins stand on a series of ridges
guide can take you to Maya altars deep which Maya architects shaped and filled,
in the cave. To get to Blue Creek, take the building retaining walls up to 10m high.
village bus to San Benito Poite. The whole site is essentially a single
acropolis, with five main plazas, eleven
Uxbenka major structures, three ball courts and
Seven kilometres west from San some impressive pyramids surrounded
Antonio, towards the village of Santa by forest.
115
 Lubaantun’s most enigmatic discovery who in turn presented it to Anna’s
came in 1926, when the famous Crystal father as a token of their gratitude for
Skull was found beneath an altar by the help he had given them. Carved
Anna Mitchell-Hedges, the daughter of from pure rock crystal, the skull’s origin
the British Museum expedition’s leader. and age remain unclear, though much
The skull was given to the local Maya, contested.
Belize
The south

116
 Guatemala

Greece
highlights

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DAILY BUDGET Basic US$15–20/ POPULATION 13 million

fact file
rough costs

occasional treat US$30 AREA 109,000 sq km

DRINK Beer (330ml) US$2 LANGUAGES Spanish (official), plus
FOOD Burrito US$1 23 indigenous languages
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CAPITAL Guatemala City
US$3–5/US$5–6/US$10–20 (population: 3 million)
TRAVEL Guatemala City–Antigua CURRENCY Quetzal (Q)
(45km) by chicken bus: 1hr, US$1; INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
Antigua–Cobán (258km) by shuttle t502
minibus: 5hr, US$15 TIME ZONE GMT – 6hr

117
 Introduction
Tourism is booming in Guatemala, and understandably so: the
country simply overflows with natural, historical and cultural
guatemala

interest. In established destinations – Antigua, around Lago de

Atitlán, Flores – you’ll have your choice of home-like comforts
and cheap, well-facilitated travel. Get off the beaten track,
though, and opportunities for activities like jungle trekking,
exploring ancient Maya ruins and modern Maya villages
Introduction

and cooling off in crystalline pools and waterfalls abound.

Whatever preconceived notions you have, throw them away
– you’ll doubtless be surprised by the variety of experiences
the country has to offer.
Guatemala’s landscape, full of extremes, has some nice ones: Antigua is home
is undoubtedly one of the greatest to irresistible colonial architecture,
attractions for visitors. Rising steeply cobbled streets and a plethora of restau-
from the Pacific coast, and contriÂ�buting rants, cafés and Spanish schools. Even
to the country’s status as the most Guatemala City, avoided by many,
mountainous Central American nation, possesses its own gritty charm.
is a chain of volcanoes (some still The country’s landscape has had an
smoking). In many highland villages undeniable effect on the history and
these behemoths are just a part of life. lifestyle of its people. Indigenous groups
Then there are the lowlands – on the flat, (mostly Maya) are in the majority here,
steamy Pacific side you’ll find black-sand especially in the highlands, where
beaches, turtles and mangroves, while there have been communities since
the Caribbean side remains unmistak- the eighth century (see p.167); villages
ably tropical. El Petén, the country’s such as Todos Santos, Chichicastenango
least populous yet largest department, and Nebaj display riotously coloured
fosters everything from savanna to textiles, strikingly wizened Maya faces
rainforest, and is extraordinarily rich in and some of the most sense-assaulting
both Maya ruins and wildlife. If cities markets in the world. Throughout the
are more your cup of tea, Guatemala country you’ll find that Guatemalans

When to visit
When you go to Guatemala should depend on what you want to see and do;
as with all mountainous countries, Guatemala’s climate is largely governed by
altitude. Many places of interest are between 1300 and 1600m (including Antigua,
Lago de Atitlán and Cobán), where it can be downright cool at any time; in winter
(Nov–March) especially, if the sun isn’t out, it can feel distinctly damp and cold.
Low-lying Petén is a different world, with steamy conditions most of the year. The
Pacific and Caribbean coasts are equally hot and humid.
The summer, or rainy season, is roughly from May to October. Precipitation is
usually confined to the late afternoon, and the rest of the day is often warm and
pleasant. As a rule, it’s only in remote areas that rain can affect travel plans. The
busiest times for tourism are during July and August, and Easter, when Holy Week
(Semana Santa) celebrations are quite a spectacle to behold.

118
(or Chapines, as they call themselves), 1955–1985 Military governments send the country
while perhaps more reserved than some into a spiral of violence, economic decline and
of their neighbours, are polite, helpful corruption.
1976 Huge earthquake strikes, leaving 23,000
and welcoming at every turn.
dead, 77,000 injured and a million homeless.

guatemala
Presence of guerrilla groups increases in the wake
chronology of the destruction.
1500 BC Nomads settle into agricultural communi- 1978 Lucas García takes over, escalating the civil
ties and are regarded as the first Maya. war and massacring some 25,000 peasants, intel-
300 BC–300 AD Explosion of Maya culture. City- lectuals, politicians, priests and protesters.
states such as Tikal boom. 1982 Efraín Ríos Montt stages a successful coup.
300–900 AD Classic Period of Maya culture sees His Civil Defence Patrols polarize the country,

Basics
advances in architecture, astronomy and art, and trapping peasants between armed forces and
the emergence of political alliances/rivalries. guerrilla groups.
750 AD Warring increases and Maya cities 1985 The first legitimate elections in 30 years are
gradually decline. Highland villages begin to take won by Vinicio Cerezo, but the army is still clearly
shape, becoming the home of the last vestiges of in control.
Maya culture. 1992 Civil war rumbles on. Rigoberta Menchú is
1200s Toltecs invading from Mexico institute a awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for campaigning on
militaristic society that fosters highland tribal behalf of Guatemala’s indigenous population.
rivalries. 1996 Peace accords are signed on December 29.
1523 Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado arrives, and 1998 Bishop Juan Gerardi is assassinated two days
takes advantage of tribal rivalries to bring the Maya after publishing an investigation of wartime atroci-
under Spanish control. ties, exposing the military’s continuing strength
1540 The last of the highland tribes are subdued. 1999 Alfonso Portillo takes office. Despite promises
1541 Guatemala’s capital (present-day Antigua) to tackle the military and criminal gangs, his reign
presides over the provinces of modern-day Costa is plagued by corruption, and he virtually bankrupts
Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Honduras and Chiapas. the country.
1773 Antigua is destroyed by an earthquake, 2004 Newcomer Oscar Berger is inaugurated
resulting in the relocation of the capital to its president; he appoints Rigoberta Menchú as a
present-day site. goodwill ambassador to implement the peace
1821 The Captain-General of Central America accords. The faltering economy makes some
signs the Act of Independence and Guatemala teetering progress.
briefly becomes a member of the Central American 2007 Guatemala’s first left-leaning president in
Federation. 50 years, Alvaro Colom, is elected. His wife, Sandra
1847 Guatemala declares itself an independent de Colom, is set to become Guatemala’s Evita, with
republic. a remit to front a committee for the alleviation of
1871 Rufino Barrios arrives from Mexico to start a poverty.
liberal revolution, which heralds sweeping social
change but crushes dissent and marginalizes the
rural poor.

Basics
1901 The United Fruit Company begins to grow
bananas in Guatemala. They monopolize railways
and port facilities, and establish a pervasive
political presence.
1930 Jorge Ubico becomes president, promising
reform; he doesn’t succeed, but does build a nice arrival
palace. The vast majority of Guatemala’s
1944 Student violence leads to Ubico’s resignation. visitors arrive at La Aurora Inter­
Guatemala embarks on a 10-year experiment with
national Airport (GUA), 6km south
“spiritual socialism”.
1952 Law redistributing United Fruit Company
of Guatemala City. Most long-haul
land is passed, to the benefit of 100,000 peasant flights arrive from the US (with the
families. main carriers Delta, Continental and
1954 The CIA sets up an invasion of Guatemala to American Airlines flying from Atlanta,
overthrow its “communist-leaning” government. Houston, Dallas Fort-Worth/Miami
119
120
Basics guatemala

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121
 respectively), but there is also a direct The main sea routes to Guatemala
flight from Europe with Iberia. Expect come from Belize, but you can also
to pay around £600/€750 for a return cross into Petén from Chiapas, Mexico;
ticket from Europe and from $300 from you’ll need to take a lancha on the Río
the US. You can also fly from Cancún, Usumacinta.
guatemala

Mexico to Mundo Maya International

Airport at Flores/Santa Elena in Petén. visas
Eventually you may be able to fly from
Visas are not currently required by the
Belize City to Flores, but at the time of
majority of travellers (including citizens
writing the flight had been suspended
of Australia, Israel, New Zealand, the
indefinitely.
Basics

UK, US and most Western European

You can enter Guatemala by land
countries). Those that do require visas
from Chiapas (Mexico), Belize,
Honduras and El Salvador. Many include nationals of South Africa,
travellers choose to take cross-border Iceland and several Eastern European
shuttles or long-distance bus services countries. However, always check with
(such as the ever popular Tica Bus), the closest Guatemalan embassy well in
though it’s also possible to use local advance of your trip, or go to W www
transport – you’ll always find buses .minex.gob.gt.
waiting at the border to take you to Guatemala is part of the CA-4 Central
the next town (cross early in the day America trade agreement (see box, p.48),
to ensure more choice of departures). which facilitates the smooth passage of
If you choose to go this way, it can goods and people between El Salvador,
be a good idea to stick close to any Honduras, Nicaragua and Guatemala.
local people who may be onboard You will, therefore, not necessarily
when you reach immigration, so as to receive a stamp when you move between
avoid the illegal entrance fees that are these countries. In addition, this means
often levied against foreign travellers. you are only entitled to a total stay of
Should you be targeted for these, try ninety days in all four countries. Fortu-
asking for an official receipt (though nately, it’s easy enough to pop over to
you may be fobbed off). Stay firm, but Belize and come back again if you want
be friendly and patient. to stay for longer.

Land and sea routes to Guatemala

The borders with Mexico are at: Tecún Umán–Ciudad Hidalgo (see p.191) and
Talismán–El Carmen (see p.191), both close to the Mexican city of Tapachula; La
Mesilla–Ciudad Cuauhtémoc (see p.190), convenient for San Cristóbal de Las
Casas; LaTecnica/Bethel–Frontera Corozal, connecting Palenque to Flores via the
Río Usumacinta (see p.241); and Pipiles, for Benemerito (see p.241).
Travelling to Belize, there’s either the land crossing in Petén at Melchor de
Menchos–Benque Viejo (see p.230) or two boat routes: Puerto Barrios–Punta Gorda
(see p.206) and Lívingston–Punta Gorda (see p.206).
Heading to and from El Salvador, traffic from Guatemala City uses the Valle
Nuevo–Las Chinamas border (see p.314), while the Ciudad Pedro de Alvarado–La
Hachadura (see p.197) route is convenient for the Pacific coast. There are two
border crossings at Anguiatú–Anjiatú and at San Cristóbal Frontera (see p.199);
both access the eastern highlands.
The two borders with Honduras are at El Florido (see p.206), which connects
Chiquimula with Copán, and Entre Ríos–Corinto (see p.203), which links Puerto
Barrios with Puerto Cortés.

122
 GUATEMALA’S CHICKEN BUSES
Guatemala’s “chicken buses” are legendary. They’ll probably look familiar at first
glance – that’s because they’re old school buses from North America, just with a
few important modifications to get them ready for the rigours of travel: most likely

guatemala
some Jesus stickers, elongated seats for extra bums and a speaker system for
the reggaeton soundtrack. Once you find the bus you need, get on and wait for it
to fill up around you; luggage (livestock, bicycles, chickens, the kitchen sink, your
backpack) goes wherever it will fit. Just when you think the bus couldn’t possibly
get any fuller, twenty snack vendors will jump aboard, screaming at you to buy
various tempting goodies. Journeys are never dull. But besides entertainment, all
the madness does provide one of the best opportunities to chat to local people.

Basics
Even if your Spanish is shaky, a smile and a simple “Buenas” goes a long way.
Once the ice is broken, your fellow passengers will undoubtedly help you to reach
your destination with ease.

Getting around (chaotically often in the same place

Expect to get what you pay for when as the local market), though you can
it comes to Guatemalan transport: get off or on at any point in-between.
the methods available range from the They don’t generally have sched-
country’s “chicken buses” (see box ules (except on more remote routes),
above) to luxury shuttles with DVD instead leaving every thirty minutes or
players. If you’re in a hurry, you can when full. Pay your fare (expect it to
also expect to be frustrated – despite be about US$1 per hour of travel) to
frequent services and an improved road the Ayudante (conductor) on the bus.
network, delays are still common. Be It pays to be open to help from locals
aware, too, that safety remains a major when trying to negotiate your passage
issue when travelling in Guatemala; – the ayudantes are invariably friendly,
premium services are not necessarily knowledgeable and for the most part
more secure. Highway robberies do honest.
occur, and tourist vehicles are lucrative In rural areas the transport often
targets; keep your valuables close and comes in the form of microbuses or
your wits about you. Traffic accidents micros. You can expect to pay in the
are also frighteningly common (you’ll region of US$2 per hour of travel, but
soon see why). If you’re feeling uncom- don’t expect a guaranteed seat. Micro-
fortable with your driver, consider buses sometimes depart from a central
asking him to slow down (if a private terminal, although in larger towns and
shuttle), or if on public transport, cities each route may have their own
getting off and waiting for the next bus. individual terminal.
First-class, or Pullman, buses are
By bus more comfortable and make fewer
stops. Each passenger has a seat to him
Buses in Guatemala are incred- or herself, and tickets can be bought in
ibly crowded, but they’re also cheap advance (but drivers will usually stop
and the easiest way to get around. In for you en-route if they have space).
urban and rural areas alike, second- Pullmans usually leave from the bus
class buses – known as camionetas company’s office rather than a town’s
to Guatemalans and “chicken buses” main bus terminal. Prices are reasonable
to foreigners – are by far the most (also around US$2 per hour of travel).
numerous. Second-class buses gener- All the main tourist routes are also
ally start and stop at the local terminal served by shuttle buses that will whisk
123
 addresses in Guatemala
Like the majority of towns and cities in Central America, Guatemala’s streets
generally follow a grid system, with the occasional diagonal thrown in for variety.
In most towns, avenidas run north–south and are numbered from 1 Avenida (on
guatemala

either the west or east of side of town), while calles run east–west (and will start at
1 Calle in the north). Even small towns will centre on a plaza (with the exception of
waterside settlements such as Panajachal and Lívingston), usually intersected by
the settlement’s primary avenidas and calles. In the capital and a few other cities
(Cobán and Quetzaltenango, for example) the ever-expanding street network is
divided into zonas, each of which may have its own separate set of numbered
Basics

calles and avenidas (ie, 1 Calle may exist in more than one zona). Addresses in
Guatemala (and in this guide) are given listing first the calle or avenida that the
property is on, followed by a number signifying the calle/avenida that intersects to
the north/west. The final number given is the property number. For example “6 Av
9–14, Zona 1” is in Zona 1, on 6 Avenida south of 9 Calle, house number 14.

you around in a lot more comfort, for Taxis are available in all the main
a price (Flores–Tikal return is around towns. Rates are fairly low (around US$3
US$7). Tickets are booked (best the day for a 3km trip), but except in Guate-
before) through a travel agent or your mala City, meters are nonexistent, so it’s
hotel. You’ll be picked up from your essential to fix a price before you set off
accommodation and dropped off where (clarify that the price is for the journey,
you want. not per person). Local taxi drivers will
almost always be prepared to negotiate
By car a price for a half-day or day’s excursion
to villages or sites.
Driving in Guatemala is pretty straight-
forward. Parking and security are the By bike
main problems; in the larger towns you
should always get your car shut away Cycling is the most exhilarating way to
in a guarded car park. The main routes see Guatemala, but the country’s poor
are paved, but minor roads are often roads make it quite challenging. If you
extremely rough. Gas costs around set out and it all gets too much, most
US$2 a gallon, diesel about US$1.50. buses will carry bikes on the roof. You
Renting a car will run around US$45 can rent mountain bikes in Antigua and
a day (around US$230 a week) for a Panajachel (see p.151 & p.159), as well
small vehicle by the time you’ve added as several other cities. You should have
the extras. However, excesses on any no problem finding repair shops.
damage caused can be huge, so be sure
to check your agreement fully. All major By boat
rental firms have an office at the airport
in Guatemala City (see p.137). Small speedy motorized boats called
If you plan to visit the more remote lanchas are the main form of water
parts of the country, then it’s almost transport, though there’s still a slow
inevitable that you will hitch a ride with ferry service between Puerto Barrios and
a pick-up or truck from time to time. Lívingston. The two definitive boat trips
You’ll usually have to pay for your lift in Guatemala are through the Río Dulce
– around the same as the bus fare. This gorge system, starting in either Líving-
said, hitching is never entirely safe, and ston or Río Dulce, and across Lago de
carries obvious risks. Atitlán, usually beginning in Panajachel.
124
 Camping facilities are becoming more
By air common. Towns with formal provisions
The only internal flight most people are for camping include Panajachel, Semuc
likely to take is from Guatemala City to Champey, Lanquín, Laguna Lachua,
Flores (from US$200 return), with two Poptún, El Remate and Tikal. A tent is

guatemala
airlines, TACA and TAG, offering daily a good idea if you plan to set off into
services. Virtually any travel agent in the wilds; it’s possible to rent one, or a
the country can book you a ticket. hammock, for use in many backpacker
centres.
Accommodation
Food and drink

Basics
Accommodation in Guatemala comes
in different guises: pensiones, posadas, You can be well fed in Guatemala for
hospedajes and hotels. The names don’t only a few dollars a day. Lunch is the
actually mean much, however, as they’re main meal of the day, and cheap eats
approximately the same thing, although are abundant, from fresh produce at
in general hotels are towards the top end markets to street stalls selling tasty
of the price scale and most hospedajes wraps and grilled meats, to comedores
and pensiones towards the bottom. where you can get a two-course lunch,
Budget options are plentiful and even in with drink, for US$3. These menú del
tourist centres you can sleep for as little día or almuerzo set menus are usually
as US$2–3 if you’re prepared to live with served noon–3pm. Breakfast is also
minimum comfort. Hostels and lodges good value, with traditional break-
tailored to backpackers are springing fasts including a combination of eggs,
up across the country; most have dorms beans, tortillas, cheese, fried plantains
and camping facilities as well as private and cream. Most places in tourist
rooms. Wherever you stay, room prices centres also offer Continental options
are fixed by Inguat, the tourist board, for slightly more money. Alternatively,
and there should be a tariff posted by the fresh fruit can be bought from street
door of your room. You should never vendors and muffins and breads from
pay more than the posted rate. See p.35 bakeries, cutting your breakfast bill
for an explanation of the accommoda- to a single dollar. Evening meals in
tion price codes used in this guide. restaurants are generally more expen-
Rates rarely include breakfast; however, sive (from US$4).
many moderately priced rooms (US$10– Maya cuisine is at the heart of Guate-
20;  –) come with cable TV and the malan cooking. Maize is an essential
promise of hot-water showers. Actually ingredient, appearing most commonly
getting a hot-water shower is a different as a tortilla. Beans (frijoles) are served as
story, as electric shower-head water they are in the rest of Central America,
heaters are notoriously ineffective (and either refried (volteados) or whole
dangerous). Keep your eyes open for (parados). Chillis, usually in the form
gas-fired hot-water systems – much safer of a spicy sauce (salsa picante), are the
bets. Only on the coasts and in Petén final ingredient in a Maya meal. Popular
will you need a fan or air-conditioning, market snacks include pupusas (thick
while you’ll need heavy-duty blankets stuffed tortillas topped with crunchy
in the highlands. A mosquito net is grated salad vegetables) and tostadas
sometimes provided in lowland areas, but (corn crisps smeared with avocado,
if you plan to spend time in Petén or on cheese and other toppings). On the
either coast it’s probably worth investing Caribbean coast there is a distinct Creole
in one. They’re essential if you plan to do cuisine, heavily based on fish, seafood,
any jungle trekking or camping. coconuts, plantains and banana. Tapado
125
 (a coconut-based fish or shellfish soup) CULTURE AND
is the signature dish in these parts. In ETIQUETTE
small towns and rural areas across the
country, you can expect your choice to Perhaps more so than in other Central
be confined to rice, tortillas and beans, American countries, religious doctrine
guatemala

and fried chicken and hamburgers. – Catholic, Evangelical Protestant,

Vegetarians receive a mixed bag; Guate- indigenous spiritual beliefs – continues
mala City offers some gems (even for to influence cultural behaviour in
vegans) and gringo towns such as Flores Guatemala. Consequently, Guatemalans
and Antigua present interesting veggie are fairly modest, reserved folk. This
menus too. is particularly true of the Maya, who
Basics

can be suspicious of outsiders; tradi-

tion rules in indigenous communities.
Drink
Ladino culture is generally less rigid,
Guatemalan coffee is great – unfortu- thanks to the more immediate effects of
nately, most of it is exported, so the stuff globalization. Women show more skin,
you get in country is pretty weak. During and the Latin American machismo
the day locals drink water or refrescos, is more obvious. Even this, though, is
water-based drinks with some fruit pretty inoffensive – mostly whistles and
flavour. Soft drinks (all called aguas or catcalls from men trying to impress
gaseosas) are also common and popular. their friends – and can be ignored by
For a healthy treat, order a licuado: a female travellers. Homosexuality is not
thick, fruit-based drink with either water illegal, though it is generally frowned
or milk (milk is safer). Bottled water upon. There’s a small gay community in
(agua mineral or agua pura) is available Guatemala City, but few public meeting
almost everywhere and cheapest bought places.
in 500ml bags (bolsitas). It would be a mistake to take Guate-
The national beer (cerveza) is Gallo, malan reserve for unfriendliness,
a medium-strength, bland lager that however. You are likely to receive
comes in 330ml or litre bottles (around gracious hospitality from all levels of
US$2 and US$4 respectively in a bar; society, as Guatemalans regard hosting
much less in a supermarket). Also
widely available, and often cheaper or
on special offer, is Brahma, a Brazilian Guatemalan
import. Moza, a dark brew with a language
slight caramel flavour, is worth trying, Expressions
too. Better still, and served in tradi- Baa “right” (often used at the start of
tional bars, is a mixta – a mix of draft sentences, or on its own as an
clear (clara) and dark (oscura) beers. affirmative)
Rum (ron) and aguardiente, a clear Buena onda “cool”
and lethal sugarcane spirit, are also Fijase “it’s like this” (often used to
preface why something hasn’t gone
popular and cheap; Ron Botran Añejo
according to plan)
is an acceptable brand (around US$5 a
Chapin/Guatemalteco/
bottle). Hard drinkers will soon get to Guatemayan Guatemalan/Ladino/
know Quetzalteca, a local aguardiente. Maya
Guatemalan wine does exist but bears Gestures
little resemblance to the real thing. Rubbing one’s elbow signifies that
Chilean wines are the best value, somebody is cheap.
with bottles available from around Pulling one’s collar signifies that
US$8 in supermarkets and twice that someone has clout/power.
in restaurants.
126
guests as a great honour. Politeness Wildlife- and birdwatching are two
is valued highly by Ladino and Maya of the country’s more exotic outdoor
society alike, and there is a pleasantry for options: Guatemala is home to ten
nearly every occasion – you will endear percent of the world’s registered species
yourself to locals by returning these. and encompasses 19 ecosystems and

guatemala
“Buen provecho”, for example, is often some 300 microclimates. Several
exchanged among strangers in restau- national parks and reserves are good
rants; it literally translates to “I hope for animal-spotting, including Cerro
your meal is of good benefit to you!”. Be Cahui (see p.232), Biotopo del Quetzal
prepared, though, for the fact that noise (see p.213) and Reserva Natural Atitlán
and personal space are almost foreign (see p.155). Other, more eclectic activi-

Basics
concepts: it is quite usual to be woken ties on offer include cycling in the
by firecrackers at 5am, and even in rural highlands, whitewater rafting on the
areas Evangelical PA systems blare. In Río Cahabón (see p.220), altitude
addition, since Guatemalans are used to diving in Lago de Atitlán’s volcanic
fairly cramped quarters, expect a good caldera (see p.155) and surfing on the
deal of pushing and shoving (especially Pacific coast. You can also sail from Río
on buses). Dulce – one popular route takes you to
Tipping in restaurants and comedores Belize’s more remote cayes.
is not expected, but is certainly
appreciated. Communications
The cheapest way to make an inter­
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR national phone call is usually from a
ACTIVITIES cybercafé or a privately owned commu-
Football is the country’s top spectator nications business, both of which are
sport, by a mile. The two big local teams, common throughout the country.
both from Guatemala City, are Munic- Prices start at around US$0.15 per
ipal and Communications. Admission minute to the US or US$0.25 to Europe
to games is inexpensive (starting at just via web-phone facilities; you generally
US$3). Football also provides for easy agree on a rate and then pay cash at
cross-cultural conversation, as most the end of the call. Local calls are very
Guatemalan men are well versed on the cheap, and can be made from either
topic. a communications office or a phone
Guatemala is something of a paradise booth; Guatemalan numbers are always
for outdoor activities. With a sturdy eight digits, generally formatted in two
pair of shoes, you can hike volcanoes, groups of four. If you plan to make a
jungles and national parks, and even number of them, it pays to get a phone-
“circumstroll” around Lago de Atitlán. card, which you can purchase in many
Caving is another popular activity, shops; look for the Ladatel symbol –
especially in the area around Cobán shops selling cards usually have a little
(see p.218), where you can view stalag- sign with the symbol hanging outside.
mites, squeeze through nooks and float Alternatively, you can simply drop a
down underground rivers. Other good few quetzals in the coin slot. Teluga
caving trips can be found in Lanquín, maintains the country’s phone booths,
Chisec, Candelaria and at Finca Ixobel which display instructions for making
(see p.226), near Poptún. Finca Ixobel domestic and international collect calls.
also makes a good base for exploring However, this service only seems to be
the countryside on horseback; the consistently effective when dialling
trek to El Mirador in the far north the US and Canada. If you’re staying
of Petén also allows for horseriding. in Guatemala for an extended period,
127
 GUATEMALA ON THE NET
W www.fhrg.org The US-based Foundation for Human Rights in Guatemala site
has news of current campaigns and news items.
W www.thegringosguide.com Decent information on Guatemala’s tourist
guatemala

highlights.
W http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/ca/guatemala/ The University of Texas provides a
comprehensive Guatemala portal.
W www.revuemag.com The Revue’s website has fully downloadable files of the
monthly magazine, including back copies.
W www.visitguatemala.com Official Inguat site.
Basics

consider purchasing a mobile phone. believing them to be stealing children

They’re very popular, and the network (or their organs). Muggings and acts
is extensive. You can pick up a phone of violent crime occur most often in
for as little as US$20 (including US$20 Guatemala City; there’s not too much
of calling credit). Keep an eye out for danger in the daylight hours, but use a
the “double” and “triple” offer days, taxi at night. There have also been a few
when you can get two to three times the cases of armed robbery in Antigua and
top-up credit you pay for. around Lago de Atitlán.
Guatemalan postal services are fairly All this said, relatively few tourists
efficient by Latin American standards, actually have trouble. However, it’s
and even the smallest of towns has a essential that you minimize your
correo (post office); hours are generally chances of becoming a victim. Petty
Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm. Airmail theft and pickpocketing are likely to be
letters generally take around a week to your biggest problems – as anywhere,
the US, and a couple of weeks or so to theft is most common in bus stations
Europe. Post coming into Guatemala and crowded markets. As a rule, ask
is fairly reliable too, though note that for local advice on the safety of remote
the poste restante (Lista de Correos) areas; if you do plan to be in a risky spot,
method of holding mail is no longer don’t take more than you can afford to
operational. lose – many travellers carry “decoy”
Guatemala is very well wired to the wallets with just a small amount of
internet. Most small towns have at cash to satisfy muggers. In indigenous
least two or three cybercafés, while communities show deference and always
they are found practically every other ask permission before taking photos.
block in bigger settlements. Rates vary If you are robbed you should file a
between US$0.80 and US$4 an hour. report with the police – at the very
Many hotels also provide internet facili- least for insurance purposes – though
ties (sometimes included in the price of Guatemala’s civilian police force has a
your room). poor reputation. In Antigua, Panajachel
and Tikal there are well-established
CRIME AND SAFETY tourist police forces. Also useful is the
Personal safety is a valid concern for “Asistur” service, dedicated to assisting
visitors to Guatemala. Most worrying tourists. They have representatives in
are the recorded incidents of gangs Antigua and Flores (see box, p.153, for
actively targeting tourists, including contact details).
groups on shuttle buses. And though Drugs (particularly marijuana and
unlikely, tourists have also been attacked cocaine) are quite widely available.
(and even killed) by mobs of villagers Don’t partake: drug offences are dealt
128
 withdraw dollars as well as quetzals. In
EMERGENCY NUMBERS general, ATMs dispense Q100 bills. You
Ambulance t 122/123/128 will soon learn that some Guatemalan
Asistur (tourist assistance) t 1500 or businesses would, seemingly, rather
2421 2810 lose a sale than have to find change for

guatemala
Fire t 122/123 one of these, so keep a stash of sencillo
Police t110/120 (change) about you.
Red Cross t 125 Credit or debit cards are the easiest
and most convenient way to get
with severely – even the possession of money. Visa/Plus cards have the most
machines, though MasterCard/Cirrus

Basics
marijuana could land you in jail.
ATMs are becoming more widespread.
MEDICAL CARE AND The most common are the “5b” Cajeros
(Cash Machines), recognizable by their
EMERGENCIES yellow and blue signs. Most banks will
Guatemala’s pharmacies can provide also give cash advances with cards if
many over-the-counter medications, and there’s no hole in the wall. Traveller’s
some pharmacists can diagnose ailments cheques are an alternative; US dollar
and prescribe the appropriate pills. cheques are accepted in most banks,
However, pharmacists are not qualified but check before you queue up. Bank
medics – so get your Spanish correct. hours are extremely convenient, with
Even in remote communities there many opening until 7pm (and some as
are basic health centres, although you late as 8pm) from Monday to Friday and
may find only a nurse or health worker until 12.30pm or 1pm on Saturdays. All
available. In case of serious illness, head currency exchange in the country is
for a city and a private hospital. Guate- done at banks, or with moneychangers
mala’s doctors often speak English, and on the street if necessary.
many were trained in the US. You must
travel with medical insurance (see p.50), Information AND MAPS
as without it you’ll need to pay for any The national tourist board, Inguat
hospital treatment up front. (W www.visitguatemala.com), with
offices in Guatemala City, Panajachel,
money and banks Antigua, Flores and Quetzaltenango,
The Guatemalan currency is the gives out glossy brochures and will try to
quetzal; the exchange rate at the time help you with your trip, but don’t expect
of writing was Q7.50 to US$1. US too much independent travel advice.
dollars are also accepted in many of the The main office in Guatemala City
main tourist centres; prices for tours (see p.148) has a library of information
are often quoted in dollars, and some about tourism in the country (mostly in
ATMs in Antigua will allow you to Spanish), and can also provide you with

Youth and Student Discounts

Many places in Guatemala will accept the International Student Identity Card
(ISIC) as eligibility for a discount. You can obtain an ISIC card at any STA
affiliated branch, or in Guatemala at several of Antigua’s travel agencies. You will
need official written confirmation from your school (on headed paper) or a valid
student ID. Antigua agencies no longer issue cards for language school students.
Student discounts are also offered by some airlines, as well as several museums.
Unfortunately, there are no discounts available at Guatemala’s Maya ruins.

129
 FESTIVALS
Public holidays
Traditional fiestas are one of the great
January 1 New Year’s Day excitements of a trip to Guatemala,
Semana Santa Easter Week and every town and village, however
(variable Feb–April) small, devotes at least one day a year
guatemala

May 1 Labour Day to celebration. Many of the best fiestas

June 30 Army Day, anniversary of include some specifically local element,
1871 revolution such as the giant kites at Santiago
August 15 Guatemala City fiesta Sacatepéquez (see p.152), the religious
(capital only)
processions in Antigua and the horse
September 15 Independence Day
Basics

race in Todos Santos Cuchumatán

October 12 Discovery of America (see p.189). At certain times virtually
(only banks closed)
the whole country erupts simultane-
October 20 Revolution Day ously. The following is only a selection
November 1 All Saints’ Day of some of the most interesting regional
December 25 Christmas Day and national festivals.
January The town fiesta in Rabinal, in Baja
Verapaz, is renowned for pre-colonial dance
a free copy of the excellent Mapa Vial (Jan 23–24).
Turístico de Guatemala, which includes March/April Semana Santa (Easter week) is
the capital, most towns and a decent celebrated nationwide. Particularly impressive
road atlas. processions take place in Antigua, Guatemala City,
Santiago Atitlan & San Cristóbel Verapaz. Every
Sunday of Lent sees massive street processions in
Opening hours AND
Antigua, which culminate with the main event on
HOLIDAYS Easter Sunday.
Most offices and shops are open July Cubulco, Baja Verapaz, hosts the Palo
Volador, a pole-spinning ritual (July 25); Cobán
between 8am and 5pm, though some
celebrates the national folklore festival (July
take a break for lunch. Archeological 31–Aug 6).
sites are open every day, usually from August Guatemala City fiesta (Aug 15).
8am to 5pm, (Tikal maintains longer November The first of the month is All Saints’
hours), while most museums open Day, with celebrations all over, but most dramatic
Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to in Todos Santos Cuchumatán and Santiago
4pm. Sundays remain distinguishable Sacatepéquez, where massive paper kites are
– many businesses close and trans- flown.
port is less frequent, though tourist December Bonfires (the Burning of the Devil) take
place throughout the country on Dec 7; main fiesta
centres such as Antigua keep buzzing.
in Chichicastenango (Dec 13 & 21). Christmas is
On public holidays virtually the entire
celebrated country-wide (Dec 25).
country shuts down, so don’t expect to
be travelling anywhere.

130
 Guatemala City
three million people. Characterized
by an intensity and a vibrancy that
simultaneously fascinate and horrify,
Spilling across a highland basin, Guatemala’s capital is a shapeless and
surrounded on three sides by jagged swelling metropolitan mass, and the

guatemala
hills and volcanic cones, GUATE­ undisputed centre of the country’s
MALA CITY is now the largest city politics, power and wealth. Not even a
in Central America, home to over wild imagination will be able to make it

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131
 out as a pleasant environment – indeed, across Bulevar Liberación/Los Proceres
for many travellers time spent in the zonas 13 and 14 are rich leafy suburbs
capital is an exercise in damage limita- and home to the airport, zoo and the
tion, struggling through bus exhaust state museums.
and swirling crowds. However, once
guatemala

you get used to the pace, Guatemala Parque Central

City can offer some surprises, including The windswept expanse of the Parque
a satisfying variety of restaurants, Central, at the northern end of
some great authentic bars and a sprin- Zona 1, is a good place to stop and
kling of interesting sights. In addition, absorb the flavours of Guatemala
there are the home comforts of multi- City. The concrete “park” is full of
Guatemala City

plex cinemas and shopping plazas, life, especially on Sundays and public
plus some good places to stay and, of holidays; pigeons, shoe-shiners, herds
course, plenty of welcoming faces. It of goats, raving Evangelicals and the
is important to note, though, that the odd gaggle of European package tourists
city’s crime rate is one of the highest make it of far more interest than the zoo
in Central America; while daytime is in Zona 13 (see p.136). Most of the city’s
relatively safe, conditions deteriorate major sights – the cathedral, the Palacio
after dark, so act accordingly. Nacional, the Biblioteca Nacional, the
underground Mercado Central and
What to see and do two semi-restored colonial arcades,
the Pasaje Aycinena and Pasaje Rubio
Despite the daunting scale of Guate-
(leading off the park’s south side) – lie
mala City – it consists of 18 sprawling
nearby.
zones – the key areas of interest are
quite manageable. Broadly speaking,
Palacio Nacional
the city divides into two distinct
Just north of the Parque Central is the
halves. The northern section, centred
on Zona 1, is the old part of town, striking Palacio Nacional (entrance
and undeniably the most exciting by guided tour only, conducted every
part of the capital. A squalid world 30min in Spanish or English daily
of low-slung, crumbling nineteenth- 9am–4.30pm; free), a lavish, pale
century townhouses and faceless, green palace built in the 1940s by
modern concrete blocks, all joined president Jorge Ubico and nicknamed
by broken pavements, parking lots “El Guacamole” by locals. It housed
and lined with street vendors, it has a the government’s executive branch for
certain brutal allure. South of Calle 18, about fifty years, until the majority of
Zona 1 merges into Zona 4, home to the the ministries moved out in 1996; now
Municipalidad, tourist and immigra- it’s home to only a few offices. The
tion offices, the Teatro Nacional and twenty-minute tour gives you a brief
the arty enclave of Quatro Grados look at the interior, worth a look for
Norte. its two Moorish-style interior court-
The southern half of the city, beyond yards; you’ll also see some cracking
the Torre del Reformador, begins with murals depicting warring Spaniards
zonas 9 and 10 and is the modern, and Maya, plus a few items of nostalgia
wealthy part of town, split in two by such as the original flag and rifles of
Avenida la Reforma. Here you’ll find the revolution.
exclusive offices, international hotels,
private museums and, in the Zona Viva, Cathedral
Guatemala’s most expensive nightclubs, On the east side of the Parque Central
restaurants and cafés. Continuing south, sits the blue-domed cathedral (daily
132
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133
 7am–1pm & 3–7pm), completed extended period of time. The adjoining
in 1868. Its solid, squat design was decorative bridge spanning 12 Calle is
intended to resist the force of earth- reminiscent of the one in Antigua – just
quakes and has, for the most part, without the backdrop.
succeeded. Inside there are three main
guatemala

aisles, all lined with arching pillars, Casa Mima

austere colonial paintings and intri- South of the correo, at the corner of
cate altars housing an array of saints. 8 Avenida and 14 Calle, Casa Mima
The cathedral’s most poignant aspect (Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 2–6pm, Sat
is outside, however: etched into the 9am–5pm; Q20) is an immaculately
twelve pillars that support the entrance restored late nineteenth-century Guate-
Guatemala City

railings are the names of thousands of malan townhouse with original furnish-
the dead and “disappeared” victims of ings from various design movements.
the country’s civil war. The decor offers a fascinating glimpse
into a wealthy middle-class household
Mercado Central of the past. Among the highlights are
Guatemala City’s best market, the some scary, glassy-eyed porcelain dolls,
Mercado Central, spreads out under- a wondrously detailed dolls’ house, some
ground, beneath of one of Zona 1’s lovely wallpaper and a ninety-year-old
parking lots, east of the cathedral “talking machine” (a gramophone).
between 8 and 9 avenidas and 6 and 8
calles. The place is a riot of colour, with Mapa en Relieve
the obligatory handicraft souvenirs and North of the Parque Central, in Zona 2’s
fruit and vegetable displays. Also on Parque Minerva, is one of the capital’s
show are some impressive fresh flower most intriguing sights, the Mapa en
arrangements and some sophisticated Relieve (daily 9am–5pm; Q25), a huge,
wedding decorations crafted from open-air relief model of Guatemala
polystyrene, ribbon, tissue paper and created more than a hundred years ago
plenty of glitter. by engineer Claudio Urrutiam. The
map’s vertical scale has been somewhat
Palacio de Correos and exaggerated, but still highlights the
Centro Cultural dramatic landscape of the highlands,
Metropolitano shedding new light on those perilous
The Palacio de Correos, south of the mountain bus journeys. It was designed
park on 7 Avenida between 11 and 12 with a water component as well, which is
calles, is one post office that shouldn’t unfortunately usually empty; if they
prove too hard to find – it’s one of the kept the taps on, there would be a
most beautiful buildings in the city, good perspective on the Belizean cayes
with an elaborately restored terracotta (included because of Guatemala’s claim to
and cream facade. Inside, behind the Belizean territory). To get here, take a #1
correo offices, is the Centro Cultural bus from 3 Avenida north of the central
Metropolitano (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm), plaza; after five minutes the bus termi-
home to interesting contemporary nates just outside the park entrance.
art galleries and nice leafy courtyards
that are often filled with art and music Centro Cívico
classes; film showings, book launches At the southern end of the old city,
and yoga classes are also often held here. beyond sleazy 18 Calle and around 6
It’s worth dropping in and seeing what’s and 7 avenidas, the distinctively 1960s
going on (check the noticeboards) if architecture of the Centro Cívico area
you’re going to be in the city for any marks the boundary between zonas 1
134
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The city’s Jardín Botánico, or
botanical garden (Mon–Fri
built in honour of President Barrios,
8am–3pm, Sat 9am–noon; Q10), on
whose liberal reforms transformed the
Avenida La Reforma at Calle 1, around
country between 1871 and 1885. Unfor-
the boundary between zones 4 and 10,
tunately, you can only admire it from
is a part of the San Carlos University.
below. Just to the north, at the junction
It’s a beautiful little space with quite a
with Ruta 6, is the Iglesia Yurrita
selection of species, all neatly labelled
(Tues–Sun 8am–noon & 3–6pm), built
in Spanish or Latin. An anachronistic
in a weird neo-Gothic style reminiscent
natural history museum, the Museo de
of a horror-movie set.
Historia Natural, also sits within the
grounds; the collection is pretty dull,
Museo Ixchel and Museo
mainly mangy stuffed animals.
Popul Vuh
The campus of the University Francisco
Torre del Reformador
Marroquín, reached by following 6
South of the Centro Cívico, at the
Calle Final off Avenida la Reforma to
junction of 7 Avenida and 2 Calle,
the east, is home to two privately owned
in Zona 9, is the landmark Torre del
museums in their own purpose-built
Reformador, Guatemala’s version of
cultural centre. The Museo Ixchel
the Eiffel Tower. The steel structure was
(Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm;
135
 Q35, students Q15) shouldn’t be missed confused. Noteworthy pieces include
if you’re a fan of textiles, or just can’t some spectacular jade masks from Abaj
get enough of Guatemalan traditional Takalik, a stunning wooden temple-top
dress: its collection is dedicated to Maya lintel from Tikal and artefacts from
culture, with particular emphasis on Piedras Negras, one of the remotest
guatemala

traditional weaving. There’s a number of sites in Petén. Stela 12, dating from
stunning hand-woven fabrics, including 672 AD, depicts a cowering captive
some impressive examples of ceremonial king begging for mercy, and there’s an
costumes, with explanations in English, enormous carved stone throne from the
plus information about techniques, same site, richly engraved with glyphs
dyes, fibres and weaving tools and the and decorated with a two-faced head.
Guatemala City

ways in which costumes have changed

over time. Museo Nacional de Arte
The excellent Museo Popol Vuh Moderno
(Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm; Opposite the archeological museum,
Q35, students Q15), next door, is home and part of the same complex, the city’s
to an outstanding collection of artefacts Museo Nacional de Arte Moderno
from archeological sites all over the (Tues–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat & Sun 9am–
country. The small museum is divided noon & 1.30–4pm; Q15) also suffers
into Preclassic, Classic, Postclassic and from poor presentation, but does boast
Colonial rooms, and all the exhibits are some imaginative geometric paintings
top quality. Particularly interesting is a by Dagoberto Vásquez, and a collection
copy of the Dresden Codex, one of very of startling exhibits by Efraín Recinos,
few surviving written and illustrated including a colossal marimba-cum-tank
records of Maya history. sculpture. Both Vásquez and Recinos are
twentieth-century Guatemalan artists
Parque Aurora particularly noted for their mural work,
Further south, in Zona 13 (reach- which can be seen on various public
able by bus #63 from 4 Av or #83 from buildings throughout the city, including
10 Av), Parque Aurora houses the city’s the Banco de Guatemala and the Biblio-
zoo (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; Q20). Here teca Nacional. There’s also a permanent
you can see African lions, Bengal tigers, collection of Cubist art and massive
crocodiles, giraffes, Indian elephants, murals by Carlos Mérida, Guatemala’s
hippos, monkeys and all the Central and most celebrated artist.
South American big cats, including some
jaguars. As zoos go, it’s not bad, although Museo Nacional de Historia
some will no doubt find it depressing. Natural
The grounds are nice, though. The third museum in the complex, the
Museo Nacional de Historia Natural
Museo Nacional de (Tues–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat & Sun 9am–
Arqueología y Etnología noon & 1.30–4pm; Q15), is pretty
Opposite the Parque Aurora is a dismal, featuring a range of miserable
complex of three state-run museums, of stuffed animals from Guatemala and
which the Museo Nacional de Arque­ elsewhere and a few mineral samples.
ología y Etnología (Tues–Fri 9am– Close by on 11 Avenida is the touristy
4pm, Sat & Sun 9am–noon & 1.30– Mercado de Artesanías (see p.141).
4pm; Q30, students free) is the best.
The collection includes a world-class Kaminaljuyú
selection of Maya treasures, though Way out on the western edge of the
the layout and displays are somewhat city lies Zona 7, which wraps around
136
the ruins of pre-colonial Kaminaljuyú
(daily 9am–4pm; Q40). Archeological Addresses in
digs have uncovered more than three Guatemala City
hundred mounds and thirteen ball- The system of street numbering in
courts here, though unlike the massive the capital can be confusing – and

guatemala
temples of the lowlands, these struc- is often complicated by the fact
tures were built of adobe, and most of that the same calles and avenidas
them have been lost to erosion and can exist in several different zones.
urban sprawl. Today the site (incorpo- Always check the zone first and then
the street. For example, “4 Av 9–14,
rating only a tiny fraction of the
Zona 1” is in Zona 1, on 4 Avenida
original city) is little more than a series

Guatemala City
between 9 and 10 calles, house
of earth-covered mounds, and it’s number 14.
virtually impossible to get any impres-
sion of Kaminaljuyú’s former scale and
before the Santa Cecilia Transmetro for local
splendour. To get to the ruins, take bus
connections.
#35 from 4 Av in Zona 1. Alternatively, By bus First-class (Pullman) buses arrive at the
any bus from the Parque Central that private terminal of whichever company you’re
has a small “Kaminaljuyú” sign in the using – most are in Zona 1 (see p.142 for listings).
windscreen passes within a block Few international companies now use the Zona 4
or two. terminal, but La Vencedora for San Salvador is
You can visit the Museo Miraflores close by at 3 Av and 1 C and some other operators
(Tues–Sun 9am–7pm; Q40), a ten- (including Tica Bus, Hedman Aas and Pullmantur)
minute walk south of the ruins on have offices in Zona 10. From here to Zona 1,
take any northbound bus from Av la Reforma
Calzada Roosevelt, to learn more about
marked Plaza/Parque Central, or a taxi should be
the ancient city; displays explain the $5. Be aware that around 18 Calle, where many
history of Kaminaljuyú and its impor- companies are located, is particularly seedy at
tance as a trading centre. To get there, night. Second-class buses from the coast or
take any bus headed to “Tikal Futura”; highlands arrive in Zona 8 close to Trebol junction.
the museum is between the Miraflores The Transmetro runs from here north to Plaza
shopping centre and the Tikal Futura Municipalidad; alternatively, take a taxi.
Tower. Tourist information The main Inguat office (Mon–
Fri 8am–4pm; T2421 2800, [email protected]
.gt) is at 7 Av 1–17, Zona 4. The information desk on
Arrival and information the ground floor has plenty of material (including an
By air Aurora International Airport is in Zona 13. excellent free city/country map), and there’s always
There are a couple of banks (Mon–Fri 6am–8pm, someone who speaks English. There are also infor-
Sat & Sun 8am–6pm) here, where you can change mation desks (both daily 6am–9pm) on the upper
US dollars and traveller’s cheques, plus 24hr (departures) and lower (arrivals) floors of the airport.
ATMs. The easiest way to get from the airport is Travel agents There are a couple of agencies
by taxi (US$5/Q40 to zonas 9 and 10, US$10/Q80 inside the Torre Estacionmento, on the corner of
to Zona 1), though it is cheaper to take the bus 5 Av and 11 C in Zona 1, and many in Zona 10,
(Q1): on exiting the arrivals hall, cross the road including a branch of STA at Isyta 11 C 0–49
to the parking garage and take the elevator to (T2332 7629).
Level 3; upstairs, walk to your left, towards the
three flagpoles, to find the pedestrian ramp to the City transport
bus stops. Wait here for the #83 bus (note that the
#83 takes two different routes – see box, p.138). Buses Buses (6.30am–9.30pm; Q1) stop pretty
Do not travel by bus after dark. There are regular much wherever you want them to; you’ll often find
shuttle-bus services from the airport to Antigua people on a street corner waiting to flag one down.
(US$10/Q80) until about 10pm, though they don’t Windscreens carry signs to help you predict the
have a fixed schedule and only leave when they route (see box, p.138, for the most useful). Have
have at least three passengers. Alternatively, take your fare ready – drivers will not wait. Don’t use
the #83 bus via Trebol junction, and get off buses after dark.
137
 Hotel Capri 9 Av 15A–63 T2251 3737. In a rather
Useful bus routes musty five-floor breeze-block building. If you can
handle the stairs, the top floor rooms are best, with
#63 4 Av, Zone 1–Zone 13 museums.
panoramic views; otherwise, rooms at the rear also
#82 8 or 10 Av, Zone 1–Av la have views and are quieter. Free mineral water,
Reforma
guatemala

safes, internet and parking. 

#83 Bolívar Airport–Trebol junction– Hotel Fénix 7 Av 15–81 T2251 6625. A crumbling
Av Bolívar–3 Av, Zone 1 old place, but still one of the better bets in the
#83 Terminal Airport–7 Av, Zone area. Rooms are light, airy and rickety, and there’s
9–Zone 4 bus terminal–9 Av, Zone 1 a quirky café downstairs, as well as a TV lounge,
#101 8 or 10 Av Zone 1–Av la book swap and internet access. 
Reforma–20 C Zone 10. This route Hotel Monte Carlo 9 Av 16–20 T2238 0735.
Guatemala City

passes many of the embassies, the A reasonable option, with a cute courtyard and
Popol Vuh and Ixchel museums and part-time candle-lit fountain. Rooms are rather
the Los Próceres mall. dark and pieced together, but clean enough and all
with TV. 
Hotel San Martín 16 C 7–65 T 2238 0319. Not
Taxis There are currently both metered and non- fancy, but cheap, safe and friendly. Rooms are
metered taxis. Metered taxis are comfortable and clean, and some have private bath. This is one
cheap; Amarillo (T2470 1515) is highly recom- of the best deals at the lower end of the price
mended and will pick you up from anywhere in the scale. 
city. The fare from Zona 1 to Zona 10 is about Q40, Hotel Spring 8 Av 12–65 T2230 2858,
or a short hop within zones will be around Q15. W www.hotelspring.com. Spacious rooms,
With non-metered taxis, always set a price before with or without private bath, come with cable TV
you get in. Always take taxis after dark. and are set around a pretty courtyard. Breakfast is
Transmetro Operating like a tram, the Transmetro available, plus mineral water, safes and internet at a
(Q1, paid at the turnstile on entry) runs from the charge. An excellent deal for the location, ambience
Centro Cívico southwest on Av Bolivar, to Trebol and facilities. Book ahead. 
junction and beyond – particularly useful for Pensión Meza 10 C 10–17 T2232 3177. A
connecting chicken buses to/from the highlands legendary travellers’ hangout; even Che Guevara
with zonas 1/4. The network runs until 11pm; stayed here back in the day. It’s now fairly
there’s always a security guard onboard. ramshackle, though oozes character: the dorms
and private rooms are not too clean, but do boast
Accommodation some interesting graffiti. There’s a handy comedor
and bar next door, and a nice courtyard at the rear,
Zona 1 has a good range of decent accommodation; as well as a useful notice board, book exchange
the cluster of options around 16 Calle are very handy and helpful, English-speaking owner. Dorms  ,
for bus connections. However, be aware that this is rooms  –
not a safe neighbourhood, so after dark either take
a taxi or stay in with take-away. Many travellers Zona 10
choose to stay close to the airport, in Zona 13, where Xamanek Hostel 13 C 3–57 T2360 8345,
there are some good hostels and easy bus links to Wwww.mayaworld.net. Currently the only budget
Zona 1, but few places to eat or drink. To have bars place in Zona 10. The owners are exceptionally
and restaurants on your doorstep, you’ll need to head friendly, speak good English and can provide useful
for Zona 10; however, most hotels here will involve a advice. Free services include breakfast, internet,
considerable splurge. book exchange and DVD library; for a small charge,
you can use the kitchen and laundry. The building is
Zona 1 bright and airy, and rooms spacious and spotlessly
Hotel Ajau 8 Av 15–62 T2232 0488, clean. Dorms  , doubles 
E [email protected]. Atmospheric colonial
building with original floor tiles and wood banisters. Zona 13
Basic rooms are small and dark but clean, and Dos Lunas 21 C 10–92 T 2261 4248,
come with safe and TV; front rooms have private W www.hoteldoslunas.com. Very well-run
bath and large windows facing the street. There’s a guesthouse on a safe, quiet street near the airport
café in the downstairs courtyard, plus internet and (free pick-up and drop-off). The super-friendly
parking.  owner speaks fluent English, offers reliable travel
138
advice and can arrange onward transport. There La Fianna 10 C 7–24. Pleasant courtyard
are lounge areas with cable TV and good DVD/ restaurant serving economical buffet breakfasts
reference book collections; free breakfast and and lunches (Q20), as well as dinner plates
internet also available. Very popular, so book well (Q18). Breakfasts are especially good value, with
ahead. Dorms  , doubles  coffee/tea, juice, granola, yogurt, fresh fruit, eggs,

guatemala
Hostal Los Lagos 8 Av 15–85 T2261 2809, sausages, plantain, hash browns, bread and, of
W www.loslagoshostal.com. Another option close to course, beans, for less than Q20.
the airport with included transfers, breakfast, BBQ Helados Marylena 6 C 2–49. Come here for a
facilities, cable TV, internet and a lovely garden. choice of more than 150 flavours of ice cream,
Dorms  including such unusuals as yucca and chilli and fish
Hostal Los Volcanes 16a C 8–00 T2261 3040, (served with fresh lemon and a sprinkle of salt).
W www.hostallosvolcanes.com. A respectable B&B, Waffle cones start at Q10.

Guatemala City
close to the airport, with clean rooms (both dorms Parrillada Doña Sara 9 Av & 9 C. Recognizable
and private), a pleasant sitting area and garden. All for its Argentine owner, who stands aproned in the
rooms have cable TV and rates include breakfast, doorway grilling tasty steaks and stirring paella.
airport transfers and internet use, but not tax. There are rows of film and football memorabilia on
Dorms  , doubles  – the walls. Snacks Q8–20, mains Q25–40, beer Q10.
Patricia’s B&B 19 C 10–65 T5402 3256, Picadilly 6 Av & 11 C. Canteen-style place with
Wwww.patriciashotel.com. A small, family-run reasonable pastas (Q25–30), pizzas (Q40–50),
establishment with five rooms and shared bath burgers (Q20–25) and more. A mug of draught beer
set around a pretty garden. Airport transfers and goes for Q17. It’s clean and friendly, and worth
breakfast included.  the visit to watch the world of Zona 1 pass by the
fishbowl windows.
Eating Rey Sol On the south side of the Parque
del Centenario, with a second branch at
There are restaurants all over the city. Zona 1 has 11 C 5–51. Vegetarian café/restaurant with tasty,
some great budget options, while in the smarter parts healthy and imaginative food. They do a hearty
of town, notably Cuatro Grados Norte and the Zona lunch buffet (noon–4pm) – try the cheesy stuffed
Viva, the emphasis is more on refined dining, but even peppers and fried yucca with a refresco for Q30.
here there are some decent, less expensive places. Closed Sun.
Wherever you are, you are never far away from a Tao Restaurant 5 C 9–70. There’s no menu here
market, street vendor or fast-food chain. For super- – you just eat the meal of the day at tiny tables
markets, head to one of the city’s many shopping around a plant-filled courtyard. Three-course
malls (see p.141). Note that most comedores and veggie lunch Q15. Open for lunch only, Mon–Fri
cafés tend to close fairly early – usually around 7pm. noon–2.30pm.

Zona 1 Zona 4
Anfora 6 C 3–34. European–style café with alpine Café Restaurant Pereira Inside the Centro
decor and tempting pastries. Breakfast with coffee Comercial mall (6 Av & 24 C), no. 138. This popular
and juice costs Q20, filled baguettes Q30. Café de comedor-cum-restaurant just a couple of blocks
Imeri, next door, is the take-away branch of the west of Inguat makes a good lunch stop if you’re
same business. in this part of town. The menú del día is served
Astoria 7 Av & 10 C. Interesting deli with seating 1–4pm, and includes soup, main course, dessert
at rear and shop out front. There is a good range of and drink for Q25.
sandwiches, burgers and wurst, including combos Suae Via 5, Cuatro Grados Norte. Known
(with fries and drink), from Q20, as well as draft for its 70s-style leather couches and pink
beer and take-away wine. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun fluffy stools. There are great snacks served here
9am–5pm. for under Q20, including filled baguettes; try the
The Buckets 9 C 7–64. This bar/grill is conveniently vegetarian “Yoko Ono”, or the marinated chicken
located across the road from some of Zona 1’s best “Chicken Bus”. Closed Mon.
bars. The building has a refined dining atmosphere,
although prices remain moderate (Q25–50). A Zona 10
selection of daily combos (main meal of meat and La Chapinita 1 Av 10–24. Eat lunch (noon–3pm)
two veg plus drink; Q15–35) are offered at lunch with suited and booted office workers in this bright
(noon–3pm). The friendly management speaks and leafy comedor. Soup, main course and refresco
English. Closed Sun. for Q25.
139
 match or other sports, as well as grab cheap

treat yourself
The Zona Viva is home to snacks. Closed Sun.
a mouth-watering array of El Portal Pasaje Rubio, 9 C between 6 & 7 Av.
international restaurants Chibolas of cerveza mixta have been served across
good for a splurge. Among the the long oak bar here since 1932, and past patrons
offerings are steakhouses, sushi
guatemala

have included Fidel Castro and Che Guevara. There

bars, tapas bars, crêperies and is traditional music from a live marimba band on
seafood buffets. Expect to pay Fri afternoons and during lunch service Mon, Tues,
US$10–20 for a main course Thurs & Sat. Closed Sun.
and premium prices for drinks. Tacos Tequila 7 Av 5–47. This two-storey
bar is decorated with hanging skeletons,
Sophos Av Reforma 13–89. Attached to a smart tequila bottles, flags and murals of Bob Marley and
Guatemala City

bookstore, this popular café has an extensive tea Che Guevara. You should find the place buzzing
and coffee menu as well as pastas, sandwiches and before sunset, making it a good spot for pre-dinner
pastries for under Q30. drinks. A huge bowl glass or chibola of beer goes
Tacontento 2 Av & 14 C. One of the Zona Viva’s for Q20. Closed Sun
more affordable restaurants, with tacos and wraps
at Q20–40 and shared plates from Q46 per person. Zona 4
The pastel-coloured outdoor tables and chairs are Genetic Via 3 & Ruta 3. Recognizable by the gold-
a great place to watch the activity of the Zona Viva embossed relief of two strapping chaps on the
pass by. exterior wall, Guatemala’s most established gay
El Tamal 13 C 2–35. Budget eateries are few and club is relatively mixed and plays trance/house
far between in the Zona Viva, but this one does the music on weekend nights. There is a pleasant
trick. Tamales start at Q25, or a típico plate with rooftop patio. Open Fri & Sat 9pm–1am.
drink is Q40. There is also a small deli counter. Suae Via 5, Cuatro Grados Norte. This funky place
functions as a mellow café (see p.139) and retro
clothing boutique by day, and glittery, urban-chic
Drinking and nightlife electro-disco by night. Occasional drinks promo-
Guatemala City isn’t going to win any prizes for its tions. Closed Mon.
nightlife. The retro enclave of Cuatro Grados Norte
is limited to a brief two pedestrianized blocks,
Zona 10
El Establo 14 C 5–08. European-owned bar that
and Zona 10’s Zona Viva, largely the domain of
attracts mostly a middle-aged crowd. There’s a
wealthy Guatemaltecos, will put a sizeable dent
in your wallet. (This said, watch for drinks promo- quiet, polished wood interior, good food and an
tions in this area – check posters and flyers to extensive vinyl/CD collection in pride of place
see what’s on offer.) Zona 1 has a grungy appeal behind the bar. Reasonable prices for the Zona Viva,
and a clutch of interesting old-time revolutionary with beers at Q15.
hangouts where the educated elite still drink, but Rattle & Hum 4 Av 16–11. Snug and stylish
the area is quite unsafe after dark. Do not expect Australian-owned bar, popular with both expats and
much nightlife anywhere between Sunday and locals, with lively atmosphere and rock music on
Wednesday. Almost all bars listed below serve the stereo.
free tapas/snacks to evening drinkers. Guatemala
City’s small gay nightlife scene is mostly under- Entertainment
ground. The key venue is Genetic at Vía 3 and
Ruta 3 in Zona 4. There are no specifically lesbian If you’re fortunate in your travels around Zona 1,
clubs or bars. you’ll happen across impromptu marimba recitals
– especially at the weekend or during fiestas. Try El
Zona 1 Portal (see above) at lunch time, or catch the official
Las Cien Puertas Pasaje Aycinena, 9 C between 6 Police Marimba Band outside their fortress-like HQ
& 7 Av. Bohemian bar in a beautiful, shabby colonial (6 Av & 14 C) on Fridays and Saturdays from 11am
arcade with graffiti-plastered walls. Popular with to 2pm. For full listings of cultural events in the city,
artists, students and political activists. Good Latin see the Municipalidad’s website (Wwww.cultura
music and reasonable prices. Closed Sun. .muniguate.com or Wwww.consultas.muniguat
Europa Bar 11 C 5–16. Long-running, popular .com/consultas/cultura_c/), or alternatively consult
expat hang-out set inauspiciously beneath a multi- supplements in the national press (best are Prensa
storey car park. A good place to catch a football Libre and El Periódico).
140
Cinema
There are plenty of cinemas in the city showing
Directory
both Hollywood blockbusters and alternative
Car rental About a dozen companies have offices
art house films. For English audio with Spanish
opposite the airport. Also in Zona 1 is Tally Renta
subtitles, head for the shopping-mall multiplexes,
Autos (7 Av 14–60; T5900 4488).

guatemala
including: Los Proceres (Zona 10) and Miraflores
Embassies Most embassies are in the south-
and Tikal Futura (Zona 11). There are also screens
eastern quarter of the city, along Av Reforma and
in Zona 1 at 6 Av & 11 Calle and inside the Centro
Av las Américas: Canada, 13 C 8–44, 8th floor,
Capital on 6 Av. Check the listings at the Centro
Edificio Edyma Plaza, Zona 10 T 2333 6102;
Cultural de España, Via 5 1–23, Zona 4 (wwww
Germany, 20 C 6–20, Zona 10 T 2364 6700;
.centroculturalespana.com.gt) and at the Centro
Israel, 13 Av 14–07, Zona 10 T 2333 4624; UK,
Cultural Metropolitano (inside the post office,

Guatemala City
16 C 0–55, 11th floor, Torre Internacional, Zona
Zona 1) for art house movies – often with free
10 T 2367 5425; US, Av Reforma 7–01, Zona 10
admission.
T 2326 4000.
Exchange The airport has two banks where you
Live music
can exchange currency. Most of the major banks in
La Bodeguita del Centro 12 C 3–55, Zona 1.
Zona 1 will change traveller’s cheques, give Visa/
Large venue with live music, comedy, poetry and all
manner of arty events. Free entry during the week, MasterCard cash advances and exchange foreign
with a cover around Q30 at weekends. Definitely currency. These include: Banco Industrial, 7 Av &
worth a visit for the Che Guevara memorabilia 11 C, and Credomatic, 5 Av & 11 C. If you are stuck
alone. Tues–Sun 8pm. for cash on a Sunday, head for Banco Industrial
Trovajazz Via 6 3–55, Zona 4 Wwww.trovajazz 12 C 0–93, Zona 9, Centro Comercial Montúfar
.com. Decent place in Cuatro Grados Norte district (daily 9am–8pm). There are several 24hr ATMs
for jazz, blues and folk. Closed Mon. throughout the city.
Immigration The main immigration office
Theatre (migración) is in a low-slung terra cotta building at
Teatro Nacional The city’s main theatre stages 6 Av Ruta 3–11, Zona 4 (T 2411 2411).
productions most weekends. Internet There are plenty of cybercafés throughout
the city. Expect to pay around Q6/hr, although it’s
possible to sniff out places offering Q3; hotels seem
Shopping to charge Q10.
Books Sopho’s, Av la Reforma 13–89, Zona 10, is Laundry Lavandería el Siglo 2 C 3–42 Zona 1
the best bookshop for English-language fiction and (Mon–Sat 8am–6pm). Q40 for wash and dry.
travel guides. Medical care The Centro Médico, 6 Av 3–47, Zona
Malls Probably most convenient is Los Proceres 10 (T2332 3555), is a private hospital with 24hr
in Zona 10, which opens onto the southern end of cover. Central Dentist de Especialistas, 20 C 11–17,
the Zona Viva. There are also a couple of slightly Zona 10 (T2337 1773), is the best dental clinic in
dated places (Plaza Zona 4 and Centro Comercial) the country.
at the junction of 6 Av and Ruta 2 in Zona 4. Pharmacies Farmacia del Ejecutivo, 7 Av & 15 C.
Heading west out of the city on Calzada Roosevelt Police The police headquarters are in the fortress
towards Antigua are the malls of Tikal Futura and building on 6 Av. However, if you actually need
Miraflores. anything, go to the yellow and blue office on the
Markets In true Guatemalan fashion, most corner of 11 Av and 4 C, Zona 1.
markets are centred on transport hubs. Best is Post office The main post office is at 7 Av and
the Mercado Central, in an underground warren 12 C, Zona 1 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat
between 8 & 9 Av and 6 & 8 C. There is one 8.30am–noon).
at Zona 4’s increasingly disused bus terminal, Telephones There is a large Telgua office one
and another, the Mercado Sur, just north of the block south of the post office (daily 7am–midnight).
Teatro Nacional in the Centro Cívico. The city’s
biggest market is at Centra Sur (the terminus of Moving on
the Transmetro route). There is also the touristy
Mercado de Artisanas opposite the zoo in Zona Travellers do leave Guatemala City via plane
13. However, traditional handicrafts will be (mostly for international destinations), but buses
cheaper, and the selection better, in local highland are the most common way to other parts of the
markets. country.
141
 By air Transportes Margarita (TM) Departs for Managua
Flights depart Aurora Airport for other Central (Nicaragua) from 9 Av 15–69, Zona 1.
American cities, a variety of US hubs and Spain Transporte Maria Jose (MJ) Departs for Managua
(with Iberia). For connections to South America you (Nicaragua) from 9 Av 15–69, Zona 1.
will probably have to change in Panama City. There Transportes Rosita (TR) Departs for Flores and
guatemala

are also three daily domestic flights to Flores (6am, Poptún from 15 C 9–58, Zona 1. Information on
6.15am & 10am). There is a Q20/US$3 airport T2253 0609.
security tax payable by all passengers departing from Transportes Tziboney (TT) Departs for Cobán
Aurora Airport. from 16 C 8–83, Zona 1.
Transportes La Vencedora (V) Departs for San
By bus Salvador (El Salvador) from 3 Av 1–38, Zona 9.
Guatemala City

First-class buses depart from the offices of the

relevant bus company (see listings, below). Chicken
Domestic bus
buses (second-class) now depart from points
destinations
scattered around Trebol junction, leaving the old Zona Antigua With various second-class services (from
4 Terminal almost deserted (at the time of writing 6 Av, Zona 3). Departures every 15min; 1hr.
there were a few departures heading east from here, Chichicastenango With various second-class
but authorities are attempting to move buses away services (from 41 C, Zona 8). Departures every
from this overcrowded area). Chicken buses for 30min; 3hr 15min.
Antigua leave from 6 Av of Zona 3; those for other Chiquimula With RO. 1–2 departures hourly;
highland destinations (including Xela, Panajachel and 3hr 30min.
Chichicastenango) leave from 41 C in Zona 8, and Cobán With MB: departures every hour; 4hr 30min.
those headed south towards the Pacific leave from With TT: 1–2 departures hourly; 5hr.
8 Av and 4 C in Zona 12. Note that buses listed as Escuintla With various second-class services (from
having regular departures (hourly or more frequent) 8 Av & 4 C, Zona 12). Departures every 10min;
run from 5am–6pm, unless otherwise stated. 1hr 15min.
Flores With FN: 18 departures daily 1am–10pm;
Bus companies and stops 8–9hr. With LD: 3 departures daily, 10am, 1pm, 9pm;
ADN Mayan World (ADN) Departs for Flores from 8hr. With ADN: 2 departures daily, 9pm & 10pm; 8hr.
8 Av 16–41, Zona 1. Information on T2251 0610. With TR: 2 departures daily, 5pm & 8pm; 8hr.
Fuente del Norte (FN) Departs for Copán Huehuetenango With LD: 3 departures daily,
(Honduras), Flores and La Ceiba (Honduras) from 17 6.30am, 4pm, 10.30pm; 5hr.
C 8–46, Zona 1. Information on T2238 3894. Monterrico With various second-class services
Hedman Alas (HA) Departs for Copán (Honduras), La (from 8 Av & 4 C); change in Escuintla for
Ceiba (Honduras) and San Pedro Sula (Honduras) from Monterrico.
2 Av 8–73, Zona 10. Information on T2362 5072. Panajachel With various second-class services
Línea Dorada (LD) Departs for Flores, (from 41 C, Zona 8). 1–2 departures hourly; 3hr.
Huehuetenango, Poptún, Quetzaltenango and Río Puerto Barrios With L: 18 departures daily; 5hr
Dulce from 10 Av and 16 C, Zona 1. Information on 30min.
T 2415 8900. Poptún With LD: 2 departures daily, 10am & 9pm;
Litegua (L) Departs for Puerto Barrios and Río 6hr. With TR. 2 departures daily, 5pm & 8pm; 6hr.
Dulce from 15 C 10–40, Zona 1. Information on Quetzaltenango With LD: 2 departures daily, 8am
T 2220 8840. & 3pm; 5hr. With TG: 3 departures daily, 8.30am,
Monja Blanca (MB) Departs for Cobán from 8 Av 2.30pm, 5pm; 4hr.
15–16, Zona 1. Information on T2238 1409. Río Dulce With LD: 3 deparutres daily, 10am, 1pm,
Pulmantur (P) Departs for San Salvador (El Salvador) 9pm; 6hr. With L: 5 departures daily, 6am, 9am,
and Tegucigalpa (Honduras) from the Holiday Inn, 1 Av 11.30am, 1pm, 4pm; 6hr.
13–22, Zona 10. Information on T2363 6240. Santa Cruz del Quiché With various second-
Rutas Orientales (RO) T79431366. For class services (from 41 C, Zona 8). 1–2 departures
Chiquimula; leaves from 19 C 8–18, Zona 1. hourly; 4hr.
Tica Bus (TB) Departs for San Salvador (El Salvador)
and Tapachula (Mexico) from Blvd los Proceres, International bus
26–55, Zona 10. Information on T2459 2848. destinations
Transportes Galgos (TG) Departs for Quetzal- Copán (Honduras) With HA: 2 departures daily,
tenango and Tapachula (Mexico) from 7 Av 19–44, 5am & 9am; 5hr. With FN: 1 departure daily,
Zona 1. Information on T2253 4868. 6am; 5hr.
142
La Ceiba (Honduras) With HA: 2 departures daily, structures and monuments preserved
5am & 9am; 12hr. With FN: 1 departure daily, 6am; as ruins – the impressive churches and
12hr. magnificent buildings on view today
Managua (Nicaragua) With MJ & TM: 2 depar-
date back to the Spanish empire. Local
tures weekly, Tues & Sat 8am; 18hr.
conservation laws are strict, ensuring

guatemala
San Pedro Sula (Honduras) With HA: 2 departures
daily, 5am & 9am; 8hr. that the city will remain in its current
San Salvador (El Salvador) With V: departures atmospheric state, and continue to draw
hourly; 5hr. With TB: 1 departure daily, 1pm; 5hr. in thousands of visitors every year.
With P: 2 departures daily, 7am & 3pm; 5hr. Long favoured by travellers as an
Tapachula (Mexico) With TG: 2 departures daily, antidote to hectic, nearby Guatemala
7.30am & 2pm; 7hr. With TB: 1 departure daily, City, in recent years Antigua has seen

Antigua
noon; 6hr.
its population be joined by both large
Tegucigalpa (Honduras) With P: 1 departure daily,
7am; 12hr.
numbers of guatemaltecos from “la
capital” and many expats attracted by
the city’s sophisticated and relaxed
atmosphere. Tourists of every nation-

Antigua ality continue to permeate the town,

along with numerous foreign students
attending the city’s language schools.
A visit to the colonial city of ANTIGUA With smart restaurants and wine bars
is a must for any traveller in Guatemala. catering to this international, cosmo-
Nestled among the Agua, Acatenango politan crowd, Antigua’s civilized world
and Fuego volcanoes, the city was can at first seem a bit too comfort-
founded at the beginning of the sixteenth able, but like most travellers, you will
century, built on a grand grid pattern probably end up staying a lot longer
inspired by the Italian renaissance. than planned.
Named the capital of Guatemala in 1541,
Antigua grew in importance over the What to see and do
next two hundred years, peaking in the
mid-eighteenth century, before being Antigua is laid out as a grid, with avenidas
largely destroyed by an earthquake in running north–south, and calles east–
1773. Since then, it’s become something west. Each street is numbered and has
of an open-air architectural museum, two halves, either a north (norte/nte)
with many of its major remaining and south (sur) or an east (oriente/ote)

Semana Santa in Antigua

Antigua’s Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations are some of the most
impressive and remarkable in all Latin America. The celebrations start on Palm
Sunday with a procession representing Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, and continue
through to Good Friday, when processions re-enact the progress of Christ to the
Cross. Setting out at about 8am from La Merced, Escuela de Cristo and the village
of San Felipe, and accompanied by solemn dirges and clouds of incense, penitents
carry images of Christ and the Cross on massive platforms. Intially garbed in either
purple or white, after 3pm, the hour of the Crucifixion, the penitents change into
black. Some of the images they carry date from the seventeenth century, and
the procession itself is thought to have been introduced in the early years of the
Conquest.
Check the exact details of events with the tourist office (see p.148). Remember
that hotels fill up during Holy Week – reserve in advance if you want to stay in the
city.
143
 and west (poniente/pte). with the city’s the city, starting with the Cathedral and
main plaza, the Parque Central, at their the Palacios de los Capitanes, both of
centre. Despite this apparent simplicity, which look onto the square. The Parque
most people get lost here at some stage. is perfectly safe during the day, but try
If you’re confused, remember that not to walk around alone late at night
guatemala

Volcán Agua, the one closest to town, is – dodgy characters sometimes roam
almost directly south. around the area.

Parque Central Catedral de San José

Antigua’s focal point is its main plaza, the Of the structures surrounding the
Parque Central. It’s a popular local hang- plaza, the Catedral de San José, on the
Antigua

out, with couples, friends and families east side, is the most arresting. Built in
coming to the Parque to watch the world 1670, the cathedral was quite elaborate
go by, seated on one of its many benches for its time and location – it boasted
or around the Fuente de Las Sirenas, an immense dome, five aisles, eighteen
built in 1739. For travellers, the square chapels and an altar inlaid with mother-
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Today only two of the original interior great names of the Conquest, including
chapels have been rebuilt; take a peek Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Bishop
inside and you will find a gold cloister, Marroquín and the historian Bernal
several colonial images and a crypt used Díaz del Castillo. At the very rear of what
by the Maya for religious purposes. To was once the nave, steps lead down to a
get some idea of the scale of the colonial burial vault that’s regularly used for Maya
cathedral, check out the ruins of the rest religious ceremonies – an example of the
of the original structure (enter from 5 C coexistence of pagan and Catholic beliefs
Ote; daily 9am–5pm; Q5), which sit that’s so characteristic of Guatemala.
behind the church – here you’ll find
a mass of fallen masonry and rotting Palacio de los Capitanes
beams, broken arches and hefty pillars. One of the oldest buildings in Antigua,
Buried beneath the floor are some of the the Palacio de los Capitanes, or the
145
 Palace of the Captains-General, takes Colonial (Tues–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat &
up the entire south side of the Parque Sun 9am–noon & 2–4pm; Q25), located
Central. Dating to 1558, it’s been rebuilt on the site of the former Universidad de
more than once, and been through San Carlos (now removed to Guatemala
several incarnations, serving as the City). The museum building’s ornate
guatemala

mint for all of Latin America, the home Moorish-style arcades make it one of
of the colonial rulers, dragoon barracks, the finest architectural survivors in the
stables, law courts, ballrooms and more. city, and the collection inside is good,
Today it houses the local government too: mostly dark and brooding religious
offices, but you are free to roam around art, sculpture, furniture and murals
the ruins in the courtyard. Note the depicting life on the colonial university
Antigua

little fountain in the centre, which was campus.

brought here during Jorge Ubico’s time
as president of Guatemala – it’s one of Casa Popenoe
the few things in the yard left relatively Further down 5 Calle Oriente, at the
intact. corner with 1 Avenida Sur, is the Casa
Popenoe (Mon–Sat 2–4pm; Q15), a
Ayuntamiento restored seventeenth-century mansion
Directly across from the Palace of the that offers an interesting glimpse into
Captains-General sits the Ayuntami­ the domestic life of the colonial elites.
ento (City Hall), which dates from It was painstakingly refurbished in the
1740. It’s so solidly built that even after 1930s by United Fruit Company scien-
three centuries of earthquakes not a lot tist Dr Wilson Popenoe, who furnished
of reconstruction has had to be under- the house with antiques – you can see
taken: the walls, more than one metre the bread ovens, herb garden and pigeon
thick, and the vaulted stone facade are loft, whose occupants would have
good examples of anti-seismic building provided the mansion’s owners with
techniques. When the capital moved their mail. There are also some inter-
to Guatemala City following the 1773 esting paintings, including portraits of
earthquake the Ayuntamiento was Bishop Marroquín and a menacing-
abandoned, but was later restored in looking Pedro de Alvarado.
1853. Today it houses two museums,
the Museo de Santiago (Tues–Sun Church of San Francisco
9am–4pm; Q10), housed in the section South on 1 Avenida Sur from the Casa
of the building that was once the city Popenoe is the colossal Church of San
jail and containing a collection of Francisco (daily 6am–6pm). One of
colonial artefacts, and the Museo del the oldest churches in Antigua, dating
Libro Antiguo (same hours; Q10), in from 1579, during the colonial period
the rooms that held the first printing it served as a vast religious and cultural
press in Central America. A replica of centre that included a school, a hospital,
the press is on display, alongside some music rooms, a printing press and a
copies of the works produced on it. monastery. All of this was lost, though,
From the upper floor of the Ayuntami- in the 1773 earthquake. Restoration of
ento there’s a wonderful view of the the chapel started in 1960 and today
three volcanoes that surround the city very little remains of what was once
– it’s especially fine at sunset. the original monument. However, the
ruins of the monastery (daily 8am–
Museo de Arte Colonial 5pm; Q5) are still visible, and among
Across 5 Calle Oriente from the the city’s most striking, including a
ruined cathedral is the Museo de Arte large bell tower. The fallen arches,
146
pillars and pleasant grassy verges make recesses representing the Stations of
a good background for a picnic. Inside the Cross. The convent was damaged
the church, meanwhile, is the tomb following the 1751 earthquake, and in
of Hermano Pedro de Betancourt, a 1773 the sisters left the premises for a
Franciscan from the Canary Islands home in the adjoining Finca La Chacra.

guatemala
who founded the Hospital of Belén in The building lay abandoned until 1813,
Antigua, and is credited with powers when it was sold. Since 1972 it has been
of miraculous intervention. Pope John home to the National Council for the
Paul II made him Central America’s first Protection of La Antigua Guatemala.
saint in 2002 and his tomb is regularly
visited by religious pilgrims. Santa Catalina and La

Antigua
Merced
Parque Unión A couple of blocks west of Las
One block west and one block north of Capuchinas, spanning 5 Avenida Norte,
San Francisco is Parque Unión, flanked the arch of Santa Catalina is all that
on each end by a church (both daily remains of yet another convent, this one
8am–4.30pm). The one on the western founded in 1609. The arch was built so
side is San Pedro, dating from 1680,
that the nuns could walk between the
and the one to the east is Santa Clara,
two halves of the establishment without
a former convent with a fine ornate
being exposed to the outside world.
facade. In colonial times the latter was
At the end of the street, just north, the
a popular place for aristocratic ladies to
church of La Merced boasts one of the
take the veil – the hardships were not too
most intricate facades in the entire city.
extreme, and the nuns gained a reputa-
Look closely and you’ll see the outline
tion for their fine cooking. In front of
of a corncob, a motif probably added
Santa Clara is a large pila (washhouse)
by the original Maya labourers. The
where women today gather to scrub,
rinse and gossip. church is still in use, and the cloisters
and gardens, including a monumental
Las Capuchinas fountain, are open to the public (daily
At the junction of 2 Calle Oriente and 8am–5pm; Q5).
2 Avenida Norte are the remains of Las
Capuchinas (daily 9am–5pm; Q30), Cerro de la Cruz
dating from 1726, once the largest and Northeast of Antigua, the Cerro de la
most beautiful of the city’s convents. Cruz has commanding views of the city
These ruins are among Antigua’s best and Volcán Agua. It is strongly advised
preserved, and yet least documented: you come here with a police escort (see
the Capuchin nuns who lived here p.153), as a number of muggings have
were not allowed any contact with the been reported here in the past.
outside world, and vice versa. Food was
passed to them by means of a turntable, Arrival and information
and they could only speak to visitors
through a grille. You should wander By bus Antigua’s main second-class bus terminal
is beside the market; the street opposite (4 C Pte)
through the ruins – they are beautiful,
leads directly to the Parque Central. Shuttle buses
with fountains, courtyards, massive
will drop you off at your hotel.
pillars and a unique tower, or “retreat”, Tour operators Maya Mountain Bike Tours, 1 Av
which has eighteen tiny cells set into the Sur 15 (T 7832 3383), have a wide range of
walls on the top floor and a cellar that trips, plus bike rental; Old Town Outfitters, 6 C
probably functioned as a meat storage Pte 7 (T 7832 4171 or 5399 0440, W www
room. The exterior of the tower is also .bikeguatemala.com), run mountain-biking and
interesting, ringed with small stone rock-climbing trips, and offer tent, sleeping bag,
147
 Volcán pacaya
Volcán Pacaya, one of Guatemala’s many cones, is a spectacular Strombolian
volcano (characterized by low-level, intermittent explosions). Though technically
closer to Guatemala City than Antigua, it’s nonetheless more commonly reached
guatemala

from the latter city – indeed, it is the trip to make in the area. Depending on
Pacaya’s activity level, you may be able to scale its slopes.
You can only visit the volcano with guided tours (prices start at about Q40), which
are offered twice daily (6am & 2pm) by virtually all travel agents and tour operators
in town. Tours entail a two-hour climb up the volcano where you can, quite literally,
poke at the lava with a stick (make sure you wear good shoes, as thin soles
Antigua

can melt). The afternoon trip is highly recommended, as the views at sunset are
breathtaking – remember to bring a torch, as it will be dark when you walk down.
The volcano sits inside Pacaya National Park, for which entry is an additional Q40;
make sure you find out if this is included in your ticket before you go. Note that
sulphurous fumes and high winds can occasionally make the ascent impossible.

pack and bike rental; Adventure Travel Center Hotels and guesthouses
Viareal, 5 Av Nte 25B (T 7832 0162, W www Los Amigos 2 C Pte 30 T5075 2679. Excellent
.adventravelguatemala.com), is good for adventure cheap option with clean showers in communal
and sailing trips. Elizabeth Bell, 3 C Ote 28 bathrooms and good solid beds. The owners will
(T 7832 2046, W www.antiguatours.com), offers cook you breakfast and lunch on request. 
excellent historical walking tours of the town. Black Cat 6 Av Nte 1A T7832 1229,
Tourist information The tourist office (Mon–Fri [email protected]. A great place
8am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–1pm & to meet other travellers. Colourful, cosy private rooms
2–5pm; T &F7832 5682), on the east side of the and dorms are en suite, and there’s a TV lounge and
plaza, is extremely helpful, providing reliable infor- good restaurant. Rates include a massive, delicious
mation. Otherwise, noticeboards in various tourist breakfast and free internet. Dorms , doubles 
venues advertise everything from haircuts to private La Casa de Don Ismael 3 C Pte 6 T7832 1932,
language lessons and apartments for let – probably Wwww.casadonismael.com. Down a quiet side
the most informative are those at Doña Luisa’s street, this excellent option has seven rooms
restaurant (see p.150) and the Rainbow Reading grouped around a lovely garden. The communal
Room (see p.150). bathrooms are spotless, and rates include breakfast
Travel agents Of the dozens of travel agents in and internet use. 
Antigua, Rainbow Travel Center, 7 Av Sur 8 (T7832 Earth Lodge T5664 0713 or 5613 6934,
4202, Wwww.rainbowtravelcenter.com), is very Wwww.earthlodgeguatemala.com. 7km out
efficient, and Viajes Tivoli, 4 C Ote 10 (T7832 of town, this Canadian/American-owned place is
4274/4287, [email protected]), is a good perfect for relaxation. You can stay in a treehouse,
all-rounder. A number of tourists have reported bad dorms or cabins, or you can camp. Excellent views,
experiences with the following agents: Centroamérica, walking trails and good home-made meals. The
Plus Travel, Sinfronteras and Universal. owners will pick you up from town. 
Guate-Linda 7 Av Nte 80 T5252 5694, Wwww
City transport .guatelindacenter.com. Set around a pleasant
courtyard, some rooms here have cable TV, and
Taxis Available taxis line up on the east side of the most have hot-water, en-suite baths. The friendly,
Parque Central close to the cathedral, or you can multilingual owner will cook you meals on request,
call T 7832 0479. including great Italian food. Dorms ( ) and long-
term rentals available. 
Accommodation El Hostal B&B 1 Av Sur 8 T7832 0442,
[email protected]. Spotless
There’s a plentiful supply of excellent budget accom- rooms and dorms, all with lockers, and equally
modation, including many good hostels, in Antigua. clean communal bathrooms with superb hot-water
Be warned that rooms can get scarce (and prices showers. Excellent service, and rates include
increase) in July and August, and at Semana Santa. breakfast. Dorms  , doubles 
148
Hotel Antigua Orquídeas Calzada Santa Lucía Nte hot water and a nice roof terrace. Doubles are
25D T 5219 5406, Wwww.hotelantiguaorquideas a lot better value than the dorms, and the clean
.guat.ws. Clean dorms and private rooms with hot communal bathrooms need a bit of ventilation.
water and comfortable beds but a slightly musty There is also a travel agency at the front.
smell. Ninfa plants, orchids and rustic wooden Dorms  , doubles 

guatemala
tables decorate the roof terrace. Rates include
free laundry, breakfast and internet and use of the

treat yourself
kitchen. Dorms  , doubles  El Claustro 5 Av Nte 23 T 7832
Hotel Casa del Huésped Calzada Santa Lucía 0712 Wwww.thecloister.com.
Nte 16 T7832 3422. The kind owner at this place, Also known by its English
locally known as El Cafetín, will make you feel right name – “The Cloister” – this
at home. Rooms are clean and spacious with very inviting B&B, once a sixteenth-

Antigua
big beds. Home-made meals available on request, century convent, is located in
and special prices for language students.  a beautiful colonial building
International Mochilero Guesthouse 1 C by the Santa Catalina arch.
Pte 33 T7832 0520 or 2832 4791, W www The seven rooms are arranged
.internacionalmochilero.com. One of the nicest around the leafy courtyard,
places in town, this guesthouse is beautifully and all are individually furnished,
decorated with a number of old musical instru- with fireplaces, private baths and
ments in the hall. Clean dorms, private rooms and antique oak furniture. Cosy feel and
communal bathrooms. Dorms  , doubles  delightful staff. 
Jungle Party Hostal 6 Av Nte 20 T4323 0663.
Jungle Party has decent three- and five-bed dorms
with solid wood bunk beds, and a chill-out area Eating
with hammocks and BBQ equipment. Keep an eye
on your belongings, though, as there have been Antigua boasts a terrific array of cafés and
rumours of objects going missing. Dorms  restaurants, with most types of global cuisine
Kafka 6 Av Nte 40 T5270 6865. Very relaxed represented. The only thing that seems hard to
place with hammocks slung around the yard and come by is authentic Guatemalan comedor food –
terrace and a popular bar at the front. Sturdy beds which will be quite a relief if you’ve been subsisting
with lockers and clean bathrooms. Excellent food on eggs and beans. For extremely cheap and
served at the restaurant.  excellent burgers (Q6.25) head to a hole in the wall
Posada Don Tono 3 C Pte 4 T5777 3025. Family- at the northern entrance of the Bodegona super-
run place with clean baths and rooms sleeping market (see p.151). It’s very popular with locals,
two, three, four or five. Not the best option for light who have a habit of queue jumping – be prepared
sleepers – a vocal rooster roams the premises to fight for your order. Restaurants in Antigua stay
– but the chatty owner will cook you breakfast on open till much later than in the rest of the country,
request.  making long (boozy) dinners possible.
Posada Vero 3 C Pte 4 T7832 0114. Fairly clean
but quite small rooms with stuffy bathrooms. A Cafés
number of colourful caged birds flutter around the The Bagel Barn 5 C Pte 2. Well-liked place with a
courtyard.  relaxed, cosy feel serving excellent bagels (Q15).
Posada El Viajero 7 Av Nte 18 T7882 4341. Films (mainly Hollywood blockbusters) are also
Rooms here are pleasant, clean and with semi- shown twice daily (4.15pm & 7.15pm).
orthopedic beds, and there’s a rooftop terrace from Café Condesa On the west side of the Parque
which you can enjoy incredible views of the nearby Central; enter through the Casa del Conde
volcanoes. Rates include breakfast, internet and bookshop. Cosy place – some would liken aspects
purified water, and laundry service is available.  of it to a Starbucks – to enjoy an excellent breakfast
Umma Gumma Hostal 7 Av Nte 34 T7832 4413, (Q25), coffee and cake or lunch. The cobbled patio
E [email protected]. Despite the old- and period charm create a nice tone for the lazy
looking tiles, passable bathrooms and dark rooms Sunday brunches favoured by Antiguan society.
downstairs, Umma Gumma has a nice roof terrace, Coco’s Art Café 7 Av Sur 8. Tuck into a huge
free internet, hot water and a kitchen for self- wheat tortilla (Q23) in this little café while owner
caterers. Upstairs rooms are brighter.  Carla reads your Maya horoscope. A mix of Guate-
Yellow House 1 C Pte 24 T7832 6646. Environ- malan and international dishes are available,
mentally friendly, this place has solar-powered including some vegetarian dishes.
149
 Fernando’s Kaffee 7 Av Nte 43. Extremely fine (try the exquisite pesto one; Q30) in town and is
coffee ground, roasted and served by a friendly, also a good place to have a pastis.
English-speaking Guatemalan. Chocolate-covered Perú Café 4 Av Nte 7. Enjoyable, casual place with
coffee beans (Q30 for 100g) available for purchase, a dining room off a small patio. There’s interesting
too. Breakfasts (Q18) and light lunches, including fare including causas (Peruvian starters made of
guatemala

empanadas (Q22) and salads (Q17), are available. stuffed potatoes) from Q27. Closed Mon.
Local women weave scarves and skirts in the El Sabor del Tiempo 5 Av & 3 C. Relaxed, candle-
courtyard at the back. lit restaurant with jazzy background tunes and
Portal Café On the west side of the Parque Central, well-dressed waiters. The menu includes Mediter-
next to Café Condesa. Favoured place among both ranean-style dishes such as pizzas (Q57), paninis
expats and locals, serving very good coffee (Q8), (Q33) and pastas (Q34); you can treat yourself to a
bagels (Q10), sandwiches (Q20) and croissants bottle of Chilean Gato Negro Cabernet for Q85.
Antigua

(Q10). Travel Menu 6 C Pte 14. Popular with travellers,

Rainbow Reading Room 7 Av Sur 8. Long- this candle-lit place has a boho feel and serves
standing popular café/restaurant with a veggie food, including a delicious plato típico (Q32)
bohemian atmosphere (live music most nights) and and an equally good curry (Q25).
a great menu of imaginative salads and vegetarian
choices. Also home to one of Antigua’s best travel
treat yourself
agents and a good secondhand bookshop. Hector’s 1 C Pte 9A T7832
Viejo Café 3 C & 6 Av Nte 12. The pleasant little 9867. This little place – there’s
courtyard here is decorated with antique knick- only five tables – has the
knacks. Baguettes, croissants and strudels all aesthetic of a Parisian bistro but
baked daily. All-day breakfast from Q16.50. a fairly eclectic menu. You can
Y Tu Piña También 1 Av Sur 11. Colourful, watch the eponymous owner
hippyish little café. Try the “monkey’s ass” rustle up a boeuf bourguignon
juice (a blend of natural fruit juices – it’s not as vile and enjoy the jazz and blues
as it sounds; Q19), the Turkish sandwich (Q27) or soundtrack, all while you sip a
one of the excellent soups (Q26). Free wi-fi. glass of vin rouge. All the food
is home-made and the desserts
Restaurants are a must – try the beef carpaccio
Café Rubi 4 C Ote 14. If you’re counting your (Q32) followed by the Thai green
quetzales and need a quick, cheap bite, come here curry (Q68) and the lemon pie (Q28).
and have a good pupusa (Q8) cooked in front of Specials change regularly.
you. Closed Wed.
Doña Luisa’s 4 C Ote 12. The menu at this two-
storey converted colonial mansion is pretty basic Drinking and nightlife
– sandwiches, burgers (Q27.50) and salads (try the
ensalada taco guatelmalteco) – but the in-house Antigua’s main zona viva (lively zone) is centred
bakery really is the best in town. Pastries can be around the arch on 5 Avenida Norte, though there’s
purchased from the adjoining shop. another clutch of good bars on 1 Avenida Norte.
La Escudilla 4 Av Nte 4. Agreeable, excellent-value The city’s club scene is fairly small but lively, even
courtyard restaurant offering a choice of European drawing a crowd from Guatemala City. All places
dishes and local cuisine (plato típico Q48). Always (including clubs) officially close at 1am, but some
busy, but if you have to wait you can have a drink in of the bars also play music to which you can have
Riki’s Bar, also on the premises. a bit of a boogie. “After hours” parties (technically
Fridas 5 Av Nte 29. Great Mexican food served illegal), featuring local and visiting DJs, are held most
up in lively surrounds festooned with 1950s weekends in private houses, publicized by flyers and
Americana. Try the enchilada de mole poblano word-of-mouth.
(Q59).
La Fuente 4 C Ote 14. Attractive courtyard restau- Bars
rant with beautiful photographs and paintings of Café No Sé 1 Av Nte 11C. Atmospheric American-
Guatemalan children available for purchase. You owned bar, where the owner’s iPods provide
can eat relatively decent pastas (Q38) and fajitas eclectic background sounds and Tues–Sun there’s
(Q38) and sip a good coffee. an open mike and live music acts. Ask to be taken
Luna de Miel 6 Av Nte 19. French-owned, to the tequila bar at the back, where you can have
this cosy crêperie has by far the best crêpes a mezcal for Q22.
150
La Chimenea 7 Av Nte & 2 C Pte. Definitely a bit of 2000, 6 Av Nte 2; and El Sitio, 5 C Pte 15, which
a dive bar, but a good place to start a boozy evening has a good choice of Latin American and art house
with Q5 beers (9–10pm). Cocktail and spaghetti movies. Weekly listings are posted on noticeboards
happy hours 5–9pm. Closed Sun. all over town.
Kafka 6 Av Nte 40. Cosy candle-lit bar with red Cultural institutes El Sitio, 5 C Pte 15 (T7832

guatemala
tones attracting a relaxed crowd – ideal for a pre- 3037/1664), has an active theatre and art gallery
or post-dinner drink before hitting the town. The and regularly hosts exhibitions and concerts.
restaurant also serves excellent food. Mosaico Cultural, 3 C Ote 28 (T7820 1220),
Mono Loco 2 Av Nte 6B. Gringo sports bar/ organizes events year-round, including concerts
Tex-Mex place, which, for some reason, is and painting exhibitions, often in the park, in some
always packed. Tues’ ladies’ nights can be a bit of the ruins in town or at the Centro de Conven-
of a meat market, but nonetheless the bar kitchen ciones of the Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, where you

Antigua
deserves some credit for its delicious, huge can find out what’s on.
nachos (Q72).
Red’s 1 C Pte 3. The place to watch English footie Shopping
and have pub grub like fish & chips (Q40) or a good
old curry (Q60). Pool table, darts and big patio at Books Available at Casa del Conde and Un Poco de
back. Todo, both on the west side of the plaza; Librería
Reilly’s 5 Av Nte 31. By far the most happening Pensativo, 5 Av Nte 29; Hamley and White, 4 C Ote
place in town, this Irish bar is a popular meeting 12; and the Rainbow Reading Room, 7 Av Sur 8,
point and plays fun tunes to groove to while you which has by far the largest selection of second-
drink. Always packed. hand books.
Riki’s Bar 4 Av Nte 4. Very well-received due to its Markets The main shopping streets in town are
excellent location inside La Escudilla, eclectic funk 4 C from Pte to Ote and 5 Av Nte. The Mercado de
and lounge music policy and an unrivalled happy Artesanías (daily 8am–6pm), west off 4 C Pte, and
hour (7–9pm). Crammed most nights. the Mercadito de Artesanías El Carmen on 3 Av
La Sala 6 C Pte 9. Spacious, sociable bar, with a (daily 8am–6pm), both sell handicrafts.
good drinks list and a mixed clientele of locals and Supermarkets La Bodegona, 4 C Pte and Calzada
foreigners. Concerts frequently take place. Santa Lucía; La Despensa, Calzada Santa Lucía
Sky Café 1 Av Nte. Terrific views from the upper between 4 and 5 C.
deck, great tunes and an infectious social vibe
make this one of the top after-dark destinations
Directory
in town.
Bike rental Maya Mountain Bike Tours and Old
Clubs Town Outfitters (see p.147) rent mountain bikes
La Casbah 5 Av Nte 30. In a spectacular venue from around Q125 a day, or Q700 weekly. La Ceiba,
overlooking the floodlit ruins of a Baroque church, 6 C Pte 6 (T7832 4168 or 5215 8269, W www
La Casbah attracts a well-heeled crowd. Commer- .laceiba.centroamerica.com), rents out 250cc
cial Latin house and electronica are the sounds of motorbikes for Q75/hr or Q340/day.
choice; drinks are expensive. Cover Q30; open bar Car rental Tabarini, 6 Av Sur 22 (T7832 8107,
on Tues for Q50. Wwww.tabarini.com), has cars from around Q290
La Sin Ventura 5 Av Sur. Head here for some Latin a day and 4WD from Q865, including unlimited
grooves on the little dance floor at the back. Gets mileage and insurance.
pretty packed, as most patrons at Mono Loco, next Exchange Banco Industrial, on 4 C Pte 14 just
door, eventually stumble over. south of the plaza, is one of the biggest banks in
town. Banco Agromercantil, 4 C Pte 8, and Banco
Entertainment G&T Continental, Av Nte 2, both have ATMs and
accept most cards.
Art galleries Both La Antigua Galería de Arte, 4 C Internet At dozens of cybercafés; rates are around
Ote 15 (T7832 2124, Wwww.artintheamericas Q8 an hour. Funky Monkey, 5 Av Sur 6 (next to
.com), and Art Gallery, 4 C and 1 Av Norte 10 Mono Loco), is open daily till 12.30am; Micronet, 3
(E [email protected]), frequently host C Pte (next to Subway), also has a fast connection
good art exhibitions. with Skype.
Cinemas A number of small cinemas show a range Laundry Lavandería Detalles, 6 Av Nte 3B (Mon–
of Western films daily, namely La Sin Ventura (see Sat 7.30am–6.30pm, Sun 8am–4pm). A pound of
above); Cooperación Española, 6 Av Nte & 4 C; Café washing costs Q5.
151
 language schools in antigua
Antigua is an extremely popular place to attend language school. Listed here are
only a few of the very many schools offering language courses.
APPE 1 C Ote 15 T 7882 4284, W www.appeschool.com.
guatemala

Centro America Spanish Academy Inside La Fuente, 4 C Ote 14 T 7832 3297,

W www.quik.guate.com/spanishacademy.
Centro Lingüístico Internacional Spanish School Av del Espíritu Santo 6 T7832
1039 W www.spanishcontact.com.
Centro Lingüístico Maya 5 C Pte 20 T 7832 0656, W www.travellog.com
/guatemala/antigua/clmaya/school.html.
Antigua

Christian Spanish Academy 6 Av Nte 15 T 7832 3922, Wwww.learncsa.com.

Guate Linda Language Center 7 Av Norte 80 T 5252 5694,
W www.guatelindacenter.com.
Ixchel Spanish School 7 C Pte 15 T7832 0364, W www.ixchelschool.com.
Probigua 6 Av Nte 41B T 7832 2998, W www.probigua.org.
San José El Viejo 5 Av Sur 34 T 832 3028, W www.sanjoseelviejo.com.
Spanish Academy Sevilla 1 Av Sur 17 C T 7832 5101, Wwww.sevillantigua.com.
Tecún Umán Spanish School 6 C Pte 34 A T7832 2792 Wwww.tecunuman
.centramerica.com.
Zamora Academia 9 C Pte 7 T 7832 7670, W www.learnspanish-guatemala.com.

Medical care 24hr emergency service at the

Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro (T 7832 1190). Moving on
Dr Marco Antonio Bocaleti has a surgery on 3
By bus to: Chimaltenango (hourly 6am–4pm;
Av Nte 1 (T 7832 4835) and speaks English and
45min); Guatemala City (every 15 min 5.30am–
German.
6.30pm; 1hr); Monterrico, via Escuintla (11 daily
Pharmacies Ivory Pharmacy, 6 Av Sur 11
5.30am–4pm; 3hr); Panajachel (one direct service
(Mon–Fri & Sun 7am–10pm; T 7832 5394);
daily, 7am; 2hr 30min). For the following destina-
Farmacia Roca, 4 C Pte 11 (Mon–Sat 8am–7pm;
tions you need to change in Chimaltenango: Chichi-
T 7832 0612).
castenango, Panajachel (except for the one direct
Police The headquarters are outside town. In
bus at 7am), Quetzaltenango, Tecpán and Todos
Antigua, go to Disetur (T7882 4030), Rancho
Santos Cuchumatán.
Nimajay, at the end of 6 C Pte, to report thefts, or
Asistur, in the same building, which can put you in
touch with your embassy. Alternatively, Inguat can around antigua
also offer some help and put you in touch with the The countryside around Antigua is
tourist police (see opposite). extremely beautiful. The valley is dotted
Post office Alameda de Santa Lucía, opposite the
with small villages, ranging from the
bus terminal (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm).
Telephones The Telgua office is just south of the
ladino coffee centre of Jocotenango to
plaza on 5 Av Sur (8am–6pm), but rates are higher the indígena village of Santa María de
here than anywhere else and you’ll have to queue. Jesús. None of them is more than an
You can netcall on good lines at Funky Monkey (see hour or two from the city. For the more
p.151) for around Q1/min to North America and Q3 adventurous, the Agua, Acatenango
to Europe, Australia, New Zealand and the rest of and Fuego volcanoes offer strenuous
the world. but superb hiking, best done through a
Tourist police Behind the Mercado de Artesanías specialist agency (see p.147 for listings).
T 4547 0791. Officers escort visitors to the
Northwest of Antigua is Santiago
colourful cemetery once a day or twice daily up
to the Cerro de la Cruz, from where there’s a
Sacatepéquez, renowned for its annual
panoramic view of Antigua and the surrounding Festival of the Day of the Dead, when
volcanoes. beautiful, intricately decorated kites
152
– some with a diameter of up to seven run from Antigua to Santa María every
metres – soar through the skies. Further 30 minutes or so from 6am to 6pm, and
west are the ruins of Iximché, the “Place the trip takes thirty minutes.
of the Maize Tree”, where you can visit
what remains of a pre-Columbian Jocotenango

guatemala
archeological site. Despite being rather unattractive,
the suburb of Jocotenango, just 2km
Santa María de Jesús and north of Antigua, does boast a couple
Volcán Agua of interesting sights, both of which
Heading south from Antigua, a good are grouped in the Centro La Azotea
paved road snakes through the coffee cultural centre (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm,

Antigua
bushes and past the village of San Juan Sat 8.30am–2pm; Q30, including tour
del Obispo before arriving in Santa in English). Casa K’ojom, which forms
María de Jesús. Perched on the shoulder one half of the centre, is a purpose-
of Volcán Agua, the village is some built museum dedicated to Maya
500m above the city, with brilliant views culture, especially music. Displays
over the Panchoy valley and east towards clearly present the history of indig-
smoking Volcán Pacaya. Though the enous musical traditions, beginning
women wear beautiful purple huipiles, with its pre-Columbian origins and
the village itself is of minimal interest moving through sixteenth-century
– most people come through here on Spanish and African influences
their way up Agua, the easiest and most – which brought the marimba, bugles
popular of Guatemala’s major cones to and drums – to today. Other rooms
climb. The trail starts right in town: are dedicated to the village weavings of
head straight across the plaza, between the Sacatepéquez department and the
the two aging pillars, and up the street cult of Maximón (see overleaf). Next
opposite the church doors. Turn right door, the 34-hectare Museo de Café
just before the end, then continue past plantation dates from 1883, and offers
the cemetery and out of the village. the chance to look around a working
From here it’s a fairly simple climb on a organic coffee farm. All the technicali-
decent path. The ascent takes around six ties of husking, sieving and roasting
hours, and the peak, at 3766m, is always are explained, and you can sample a
cold at night. There is shelter (though cup of the home-grown brew after the
not always room) in a small chapel tour. Buses from the Antigua terminal
at the summit. If you’re not up to the pass Jocotenango every thirty minutes
hike, you can rent horses at Ravenscroft on their way to Chimaltenango; the
Stables, 2 Av Sur 3, in the village of San museums are about 500m west of the
Juan del Obispo (T 7830 6669). Buses plaza.

crime around Antigua

Visitors to the areas around Antigua should be aware that crime against tourists
– including violent robbery and rape – is not common but does occur. Keep
informed by taking local advice, and try to avoid walking alone, especially at night,
or to isolated spots during the day. If you want to visit viewing spots like the Cerro
de la Cruz, inform the tourist police (behind the Mercado de Artesanías; T4547
0791) and they will accompany you free of charge or even give you a ride there. If
you are planning a longer trip you can either give the tourist police further details,
such as destination and number plate, or you can request two police escorts to
travel with you; to organize this get in touch with Nuri León at Inguat (T 2421 2800
ext 1305, e [email protected]).

153
 San Andrés Itzapa fiesta honouring the Day of the Dead
Past Jocotenango, the Antigua– (Nov 1). On this day, colourful, massive
Chimaltenango road ascends the paper kites with bamboo frames – some
Panchoy valley, past small farming take months to create – are flown in the
villages, before a dirt track branches off town’s cemetery, symbolizing the release
guatemala

to San Andrés Itzapa. San Andrés is of the souls of the dead from agony.
known as the home of the cult of San Teams of young men struggle to get the
Simón (or Maximón), the “evil saint” – kites aloft while the crowd looks on with
a kind of combination of Judas Iscariot bated breath, rushing for cover if a kite
and Pedro de Alvarado – who is housed comes crashing to the ground. At other
in his own pagan chapel. Despite being times of the year, there’s little to see or
Antigua

just 18km from Antigua, few tourists do here – if you find yourself passing
visit this shrine, and you may feel more through on a Tuesday or a Sunday you
welcome here than at his other places of might visit the town market, but that’s
abode, which include Zunil (see p.184) about it.
and Santiago Atitlán (see p.161). To To reach Santiago Sacatepéquez,
reach the saint’s “house” (“Casa de San catch a bus to San Lucas Sacatepéquez
Simón”) – which is only open from (buses running between Antigua and
sunrise to sunset, as the Maya believe Guatemala City pass through), and then
he sleeps at other times – head for the change there – many buses shuttle back
central plaza, turn right when you reach and forth between the two.
the church, walk two blocks, then up a
little hill, where you should spot street Chimaltenango
vendors selling charms, incense and Founded by Pedro de Portocarrero in
candles. Once you’ve tracked down 1526 on the site of the Kaqchikel Maya
the shrine, you’ll find that Maximón centre of Bokoh, Chimaltenango looks
lives in a fairly strange world, his to have made few strides in development
image surrounded by drunken men, since then. It’s a pretty dull place, with
cigar-smoking women and hundreds what employment there is being extracted
of burning candles, each symbolizing from its position on the Carretera Inter�
a request. You may be offered a limpia, americana – the roadside is littered with
or soul cleansing, which, for a small cheap comedores, mechanics’ workshops
fee, involves being beaten by one of the and sleazy bars that become brothels
resident women with a bushel of herbs. at night. However, also thanks to this
A bottle of aguardiente is also demol- location, it is a transport hub: buses from
ished: some is offered to San Simón, Chimaltenango run to all points along
some of it you drink yourself and the the Interamericana. Most travellers to
rest is consumed by the attendant, who Guatemala find themselves passing
may spray you with alcohol (from her through here at some point.
mouth) for your sins. Frequent buses arrive in town from
There are direct buses from the both Guatemala City and Antigua; you
Antigua terminal to San Andrés at 2pm can change here for buses to points west
and 7pm. Alternatively, catch a bus to into the highlands. Buses to Antigua
Chimaltenango (every 30min) and ask leave every fifteen minutes between 6am
to be dropped off at the town. and 6.30pm from the turn-off on the
highway (the Cruce a los Aposentos).
Santiago Sacatepéquez
Santiago Sacatepéquez, almost directly Iximché
east of Guatemala City on the Intera- The ruins of Iximché (daily 8am–5pm;
mericana Highway, is notorious for its Q50) sit on a beautiful exposed hillside
154
about 5km south of the small town of Chimaltenango and Los Encuentros
Tecpán, ninety minutes east of Guate- and ask to be dropped at Tecpán.
mala City. These are the ruins of the Regular buses shuttle back and forth
pre-Conquest capital of the Kaqchikel from Tecpán’s plaza. Plan to be back on
Maya, who allied themselves with the the Carretera Interamericana before

guatemala
conquistadors in the early days of the 6pm to be sure of a bus. Tecpán itself
Conquest. As a result, the structures is of no interest, but there are a number
here suffered less than most at the hands of restaurants and guesthouses, if you
of the Spanish. Time and weather have get stuck.
taken their toll, though, and the majority
of the buildings – which once housed

Lago de Atitlán
over ten thousand people – have disap-
peared, and only a few stone pyramids,
plazas and ball-courts are left. Neverthe- Lago de
less, the site – protected on three sides
by steep slopes and surrounded by pine Atitlán
forests – is quite peaceful; the grassy
plazas make excellent picnic spots. You Lago de Atitlán, one of the most visited
may have the place to yourself, but it’s destinations in Guatemala’s western
important to note that the ruins are still highlands, was described by Aldous
used as a Maya worship site: sacrifices Huxley in 1934 as one of the most attrac-
and offerings take place down a small tive lakes in the world – and it really is
trail behind the final plaza. exceptionally beautiful. For travellers,
Take any bus travelling along the Atitlán is of interest both for its majestic
Carretera Interamericana between setting – it’s hemmed in by three
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 Panajachel
crime around Lago de
Not too long ago PANAJACHEL,
atitlán
known locally as “Pana”, was a quiet
Though crime against tourists is little village of Kaqchikel Maya, whose
rare, hikers have been sporadically ancestors settled here centuries ago.
guatemala

attacked on paths around Lago de

These days, while no longer either
Atitlán and on the trails that climb
the volcanoes. Always try to walk in
quiet or little – the old village, north-
a large group, or ask in the Inguat east of town, has been enveloped by a
office in Panajachel if a police escort building boom – somehow Panajachel
is available. In the more remote manages to retain a traditional feel
Lago de Atitlán

areas, where foreigners are a much in spite of its cosmopolitan popula-

rarer sight, attacks are extremely tion: the river delta behind the town
uncommon. continues to be farmed, and the Sunday
market, bustling with people from all
volcanoes and steep hills – and for its around the lake, remains oblivious
cultural appeal – the highlands are home to the tourists who come in droves.
to the western hemisphere’s largest For travellers, the town is something
groups of indigenous peoples, and the of an inevitable destination – with
lake’s shores are lined with thirteen good travel connections and a lovely
diverse yet traditional Maya villages. setting, it makes a comfortable base for
With the exception of cosmopolitan exploring the area. No one ever owns
Panajachel and San Pedro La Laguna, up to actually liking Panajachel, but
most of the villages are subsistence most people stay for a while.
farming communities, and you can hike
or take a boat between them; highlights What to see and do
include visits to Santiago Atitlán, where
Maya men still wear traditional dress, There are two main daytime activi-
and Santa Cruz and San Marcos, both ties in Pana: shopping and simply
of which give access to excellent hiking. hanging out, enjoying the town’s

getting around Lago de atitlán

It is recommended that you take a boat – either a public boat or a lancha – to
get around the lake, as it is much easier, quicker and safer than travelling by
road (armed robberies can take place on some of the roads that connect the
communities). Lanchas do not run to fixed schedules, but depart when the owner
has enough passengers to cover fuel costs. Normally you won’t have to wait too
long – usually not more than thirty minutes or so.
Panajachel serves as a sort of hub for the lake, with two piers. The pier at the end
of Calle del Embarcadero has departures for all villages on the north side of the
lake: Santa Cruz (about 15min), Jaibalito (25min), Tzununá (30min) and San Marcos
(40min). Direct (15min) and local (50min) boats also depart from here for San Pedro,
from where you can easily get to San Juan and San Pablo. The second pier at
the end of Calle Rancho Grande is for Santiago Atitlán (1hr by scheduled ferry at
8.35am, 10.30am, 1pm and 4.30pm, or 20min by unscheduled lancha). The last
boats on all these routes leave around 5pm. A semi-official fare system operates:
tourists pay Q10 for a short trip, Q20 for a longer journey (locals pay less).
Tours of the lake (Q100), visiting San Pedro, Santiago Atitlán, Santa Catarina,
Panajachel and San Antonio Palopó, can be booked with travel agents in nearly
every town; all leave around 9am and return by 4pm from the pier at Calle Rancho
Grande.

156
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lakeside location. Weaving from all Tourist information The tourist office, on C
over Guatemala is sold here, mainly Santander (daily 9am–5pm; T7762 1106), has
on Calle Santander. There is also a English-speaking staff, some hotel information and
boat and bus schedules.
market at the top of Calle Principal,
Travel agents Try Unión Travel, C Santander &
but it mainly deals with local produce.
C El Chali (T7762 1156, Wwww.igoguate.com), or
While the lake is inviting, it’s probably Servicios Turísticos Atitlán, C Santander near C 14
best to swim elsewhere, as the lake de Febrero (T7762 2075, Wwww.turisticosatitlan
water is not that clean close to town. .com).
You could rent a kayak (available on
the lakeshore between the piers) for Accommodation
a few hours – mornings are usually
much calmer. There’s no shortage of cheap accommodation
in Pana, although most places take the form of
Arrival and information hospedajes or hotels as opposed to hostels with
dorm rooms. If you have a tent, your first choice is
By boat See the box, opposite, for details of the the Campana campsite (T 7762 2479;  ), 1km
two docks in Panajachel. east of the centre along the road to Santa Catarina,
By bus Buses drop you beside the Banco Inmobil- over the river bridge. Here you will find kitchen and
iario, very close to the main drag, Calle Santander, storage facilities as well as sleeping bags and tents
which runs down to the lakeshore. Straight ahead, for rent. Don’t camp at the public beach: more likely
up Calle Principal, is the old village. than not your stuff will be stolen.
157
 Hotels and guesthouses Mario’s Rooms C Santander T 7762 1313.
Anexo Santa Elena Hospedaje C 15 de Febrero Appealing, clean rooms – some are airy and light
T 7762 1114. Basic rooms are not overly clean but with private bath, others a bit more basic – but all
very doable for a night or two if you’re on a tight are fairly pricey for what’s available. 
budget.  Posada Don Pedro In an alley off C Real T 7762
guatemala

Casa Linda Down an alley off the top of 2163 or 4387 2861. Clean rooms with comfort-
C Santander T7762 0386. This family-run able beds and hot water; some have cable TV. The
hospedaje has a beautiful central garden, though smoking area is on the roof. 
the rooms could use a bit of ventilation. The old
owner and his family will greet you with a friendly Eating
smile. Parking available. 
Hospedaje Contemporáneo C Ramos, opposite Panajachel has an abundance of restaurants, most
Lago de Atitlán

the Santiago dock T7762 2214. The spacious of them on Calle Santander, all catering to the
bathrooms and clean but simply decorated rooms cosmopolitan tastes of its population. For really
here make Contemporáneo a decent option.  cheap, authentic Guatemalan food, head to the
Hospedaje Eddy Off C Rancho Grande T7762 comedores on and just off the beach promenade
2466. An okay choice if you’re really counting your and close to the market.
quetzales: rooms are basic, cold-water showers
are more like hoses than traditional plumbing and Restaurants
bathrooms are a bit grotty. Other than that, you Bombay Halfway along C Santander. Interesting
should be alright.  vegetarian options which, despite the name, have
Hospedaje García C 14 de Febrero 2–24 T7762 little to do with India, instead including a variety
2187. Very clean all-around, with nice rooms and of international dishes such as Indonesian gado-
a terrace with lake views. However, the toilets lack gado, fried rice, falafel, lasagna (Q61) and organic
seats.  coffee.
Hospedaje Montúfar Down an alley off the top Chero’s Bar At the beginning of C de los Árboles.
of C Santander T7762 0406. Very clean, secure A good place to grab a fresh pupusa (made right
accommodation in a quiet location; the rooftop in front of you) for Q7. Try a pupusa mixta (pork,
terrace has volcano and lake views. Triples also cheese and beans). Beers and cocktails go for Q15.
available.  Crossroads Café C del Campanario 0–27. Easily
Hospedaje Nuevo Amanecer C Ramos, opposite the best coffee in town, with plenty of combinations
the Santiago dock T7762 0636. Similar to the and flavours available, plus herbal teas, real hot
other places next door, this hospedaje has pleasant chocolate and fresh-baked pastries. Closed Sun
rooms, sparkling bathrooms with hot water and & Mon.
cable TV. Safe parking in the coutyard.  Deli Llama de Fuego At the top of C Santander.
Hospedaje Villa Martita At the bottom of Little café with colourful chairs and lampshades
C Santander, towards the lake tno phone. made out of recycled glass. The menu includes
Family-run hospedaje with three small but nice (and burgers (Q30), breakfast (Q20) and even home-
very cheap) rooms.  made English muffins (Q15). Closed Wed.
Hotel Jere C Rancho Grande T7762 2781, Guajimbo’s Halfway up C Santander. A delight
W www.hoteljere.com. Local fabrics adorn the for meat lovers, this American-owned restaurant
clean rooms (all with private bath and hot water), serves churrasco uruguayo (barbecued meat; Q58)
and knick-knacks decorate the staircases. Parking and has live music in the evenings.
available.  Jebel C Santander, opposite the school. Located on
Hotel Sueño Real C Ramos, opposite the the first floor, this restaurant has nice views of town
Santiago dock T7762 0608/1097. Beauti- and good-value food. Try the plato típico for Q45.
fully decorated rooms, most en suite and some with Los Muelles By the Santiago Pier. Right above the
lake views and private terrace. All rooms have fans water, with stunning views, this is one of the best
and rates include internet.  of several lakeside choices. The menu features fish
Hotel Tzutujil In a little alley off C Rancho Grande (including mojarra for Q50), caldos and sandwiches.
T 7762 0102. Clean, simple rooms with cable TV Pana Rock Café Towards the top of C Santander. A
and free drinking water.  wanna-be Hard Rock Café, with “Pana Rock Café”
Larry’s Place C 14 de Febrero T7762 0767. T-shirts for sale and an old American school bus
Agreeably decorated rooms with wooden doors and converted into a sitting area with tables. Very cheap
furniture, all with private bath. Benches and hand- breakfasts (Q10), but the size of the portion reflects
painted tables run along the hallway.  the price.
158
Pizzeria Florencia C Santander, by the school.
This no-frills place (think plastic chairs set by the Entertainment
street) is a good cheap option, serving empanadas
Billiards You can play pool at Billares de León, on
(Q7), sandwiches (Q13) and pizzas (Q40).
C Principal.
Restaurante El Patio Towards the top
Cinema The best place to watch a movie is at

guatemala
of C Santander. Silver-painted chairs are
Solomon’s Porch, C Principal & C de Los Árboles.
set on exterior patio here, ideal to watch Pana There’s a selection of some 600 DVDs, a big screen
life go by; the interior, on the other hand, is a bit and a surround system that you can book all for
motel-like. The burgers (Q20) are some of the yourself while you munch on some buffalo wings.
best in town. Q18 per person.
La Rosticeria At the beginning of C de los
Árboles. American-owned, this place has

Lago de Atitlán
six hammocks suspended from the window rim, Directory
and the window sill serves as a table. Cheap pizzas
Bike rental Moto Servicio Queche, C de los Árboles
(Q23), suckling pig by order, alcohol shots (Q10)
& C Principal (T7762 1192), rents mountain bikes
and beer (Q10).
for Q10/hr or Q60/day, and 200cc bikes for Q70/hr
Tacos 3x10 Orale Halfway up C Santander. This or Q350/day; Tono, in the alley opposite the school,
taco place, painted in bright yellow, offers three also rents bikes for Q10/hr and Q60/day.
tacos for Q10 or fajitas for Q22. Books Librería Libros del Lago, C Santander 9,
near the post office, has a good selection of books
Drinking and nightlife on Maya culture, maps and guidebooks; Get Guated
Out sells guidebooks and secondhand English
Most bars and clubs are located around the titles; Bus Stop Bookshop, C Principal 00–99, has
southern end of Calle de los Árboles, which buzzes 4000 used titles.
at weekends. Many have live music and some have Exchange There’s a Banco Inmobiliario,
great happy hours. C Santander and C Principal (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm,
Sat 9am–1pm); a 5B ATM, opposite, which takes
Bars MasterCard/Cirrus cards; and Banco Industrial,
Atlantis At the beginning of C Principal. Atmos- C Santander, which has a Visa/Plus ATM.
pheric, candle-lit place with a number of Elvis Internet There are a dozen or more cafés in Pana
posters and old-school ads decorating the walls. with very cheap rates (around Q8/hr). The best is
Also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Live music probably Mayanet, midway along C Santander.
Fri & Sat evenings. Language schools Try Escuela Jabel Tinamit, off
Circus Bar C de los Árboles. Eponymous memora- C Santander (T5786 0831, Wwww.jabeltinamit
bilia, such as clown masks, dangles from the .com), or Jardín de América, C 14 de Febrero
ceiling, and there’s a little puppet stage, an old (T7762 2637, Wwww.jardindeamerica.com).
piano and a number of fun black and white adverts Laundry Lavandería Santander, C Santander
covering the walls. Good pizzas (Q48) and live opposite Pana Rock (Mon–Sat 7am–8pm), charges
music every day at 8.30pm. Q4 for a pound of washing, drying and folding.
Maktubar Halfway up C Santander on the right. Medical care Dr Edgar Barreno speaks good English;
The bar is set under a straw roof, giving the place his surgery is down the first street that branches to
a pleasant, relaxed feel. Pizzas (Q55) are cooked in the right off C de los Árboles (T7762 1008).
a clay oven. Happy hour 7–9pm, and there is live Pharmacy Farmacia La Unión, C Santander.
music on Fri & Sat. Police In the old village, behind the church and
next to the town hall (T7762 1120).
Clubs Post office C Santander & 15 de Febrero, or try Get
El Aleph On the northern end of C Santander. Guated Out, C de los Árboles (T7762 0595), for
The musical flavour here is mainly reggae and bigger shipments.
reggaeton, with live acts some nights. Telephones The businesses and cybercafés on
Chapiteau At the southern end of C de los Árboles. C Santander offer good long-distance rates. Your
This nightclub is also known for its reggae, best bet is Get Guated Out (see above), which
reggaeton and occasional live music, but its charges Q1/min to all landlines worldwide and
popularity is slowly waning. Q3.50 to all mobiles. Otherwise, Telgua (daily 8am–
Socrates On C Principal. Mainstream disco-club 6pm) is near the junction of C Santander and C 15
where a young local crowd gathers to dance to de Febrero, with cheap rates to the US (Q1/min) but
Latin pop and merengue. expensive to Europe (US$1/min).
159
 local Maya. There’s also another smaller
Moving on market on Tuesdays. Another inter-
By boat See the box on p.156 for information on esting time to visit Sololá is on Sunday,
boat transport around Lago de Atitlán, including when the cofrades, the elders of the Maya
connections from Panajachel. religious hierarchy, parade through the
guatemala

By bus The main bus stop is where Calle streets in ceremonial costume to attend
Santander and Calle Real meet. There are regular the mid-morning Mass.
buses to Chichicastenango (1hr 30min), Guatemala To get to Sololá, take one of the regular
City (3hr 30min) and Quetzaltenango (2hr 30min),
pick-ups or buses from Panajachel
and only one daily for Antigua (3hr). If there are no
direct buses to your destination, catch a bus to Los (every 30min 5am–7pm).
Lago de Atitlán

Encuentros and change there. Shuttle buses serve

most destinations, including Antigua and Chichi- Santiago Atitlán
castenango, on market days, and can be organized SANTIAGO ATITLÁN, a microcosm
with all travel agents.
of Guatemala’s past, sits sheltered on the
side of an inlet on the opposite side of
around panajachel the lake from Panajachel. The largest of
It’s well worth taking the time to explore the lakeside villages, it’s one of the last
the area around Pana, the best connected bastions of traditional life here, serving
of the lake towns. The landscape as the main centre for the Tz’utujil-
surrounding the different villages is so speaking Maya (most of the population
diverse that if you take the time to visit don’t speak Spanish). Though during
more than one or two it’s easy to forget the day the town is a fairly commercial
they all look over the same lake. place, by mid-afternoon, when the boats
have left, the village is much quieter and
Sololá becomes a lot friendlier and more acces-
Perched on a natural balcony overlooking sible. It’s worth taking a few hours to
Lago de Atitlán, SOLOLÁ is a fascinating wander around town – and if you want
town, largely ignored by the majority to get away from the foreign crowds that
of travellers. It is probably the largest pervade other parts of the lake, consider
Maya town in the country, with the vast staying for a night or two.
majority of the people still wearing tradi-
tional costume – the women covered What to see and do
in striped red cloth and the men in
their outlandish “space cowboy” shirts, There’s not that much to do in Santiago
woollen aprons and wildly embroi- other than stroll around and soak up the
dered trousers. Although the town itself atmosphere. During the day the town’s
is nothing much to look at, its Friday main street, which runs from the dock
market is one of Central America’s to the plaza, is lined with weaving shops
finest, drawing traders from all over and souvenir stands. Market day is
the highlands, as well as thousands of Friday, with a smaller event on Sunday.

TRADITIONAL DRESS in SANTIAGO ATITLÆN

You’re likely to see Maya men and women in Santiago dressed in traditional
costume, which here is both striking and unusual. The men wear long shorts,
which, like the huipiles worn by the women, are striped white and purple and
embroidered with birds and flowers. Some women also wear a xk’ap, a band of
red cloth approximately 10m long, wrapped around their heads. Sadly, though, this
head cloth is going out of use – you’ll probably only see it at fiestas and on market
days, and then mainly on older women.

160
 FATHER ROTHER
Father Stanley Rother was an American priest who served in the parish from 1968
to 1981. Among his noted works were a translation of the New Testament into
the Tz’utujil language and the establishment of a local hospital (sadly destroyed

guatemala
by a mudslide following Hurricane Stan in 2005, but now in the process of being
rebuilt). A committed defender of his native parishioners in an era when, in his own
words, “shaking hands with an Indian has become a political act”, he was labelled
a Communist by President García and assassinated by a paramilitary death squad
in 1981. His body was returned to his native Oklahoma for burial but his heart
was removed and buried in the church. Many Catholics in both Guatemala and

Lago de Atitlán
Oklahoma consider Father Rother a martyr.

The one museum in town, the Museo Tourist information Santiago does not have a
Cojolya (Mon–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat tourist office. The website w www.santiagoatitlan
.com has some good information in English on the
9am–1pm; free), about 100m up the
town.
main drag from the dock on the left,
also takes weaving as its subject. Inside
you’ll find excellent displays (in English
Accommodation
and Spanish) about the tradition of There are a few adequate budget hotels in town, all
backstrap weaving in Santiago, and you of which are no more than ten minutes’ walk from
can see some of the weavers in action at the church in the centre of town.
11am and 1pm. Casa de las Buganvillas Opposite Salón
The old whitewashed Baroque Nico and Clínica Rxiin Tnamet in Cantón
Chechiboy, about 5min east of the church T 7820
Catholic church is also worth a look.
7055. So new that at the time of writing owner
The huge central altarpiece culminates Miguel hadn’t settled on a name – it may be
in the shape of a mountain peak and a different from the one listed here. Nonetheless,
cross, which symbolizes the Maya world definitely the best option in town with big, spotless
tree. On the right as you enter, there’s rooms and wooden furniture, and a rooftop
also a stone memorial commemorating restaurant serving typical food. 
Father Stanley Rother (see box above). Hospedaje Colonial Rosita T5397 7187. Right
by the church, this pleasant family-run hospedaje
Folk Catholicism plays an important
has basic rooms with hot water and fairly clean
role in the life of Santiago – the town is communal bathrooms. Lovely views of the San
one of the few places where Maya still Pedro volcano and of the church. 
pay homage to Maximón, the “evil” Hotel Chinim-Hotel Chinim-yá On C Chinim-yá
saint (see p.154), known locally as Rilej T7721 7131. A decent enough option set on
Mam. Every May he changes residence an interior courtyard, although the communal
– any child will take you to see him: just bathrooms don’t have toilet seats and are not spick
ask for the “Casa de Maximón”. It costs and span. The triple rooms are more spacious and
have better light. 
Q2 to enter his current home and Q10
Hotel Lago de Atitlán Uphill from the dock, on the
to take his picture. left T7721 7174, Ehotellagodeatitlan
@hotmail.com. All rooms here have clean private
Arrival and information bathrooms and cable TV, though contrary to what
the management will tell you, there is not much of
By boat The dock is 5–10min walk from the centre a lake view. 
– when you get off the boat, walk up the hill, which Hotel Tzanjuyu In the Cantón Tzanjuyu, northwest
will lead you into town. of the church and facing the waterfront. Clean,
Internet There are a number of internet cafés on bouncy beds, and hot water in the bathrooms, but
C del Turista which have Skype. no toilet seats. Rooms should have nice lake views
Telephones You can make international calls from but at the time of writing these were obstructed by
most of the internet cafés in town. construction. 
161
 another place to relax. Volcán San
Eating
Pedro, which towers above the village
Comedor Brendy In the centre of town by the at some 3020m, can be climbed in four
main square. Very simple comedor with good-value to five hours. If you want to make the
lunches for Q15. hike, hire a guide – the foliage is dense,
guatemala

Comedor Cayuco By the dock on the right. Cheap the route very difficult to find and there
option, set between a number of little shops selling have been occasional attacks on tourists
local fabrics and curios, serving fried chicken (Q20)
on the slopes. Guides can be organized
and fish (Q25).
El Gran Sol One block up from the dock on the left. at Excursion Big Foot (see below). After
A family-run place with a palm roof, a little terrace the hike, unwind with a massage – see
Ada at the Hotel Villa Sol, 100m from
Lago de Atitlán

and colourful sutes de lana (woollen tablecloths).

Good for grilled meats (Q25) and soups (Q20). the Santiago dock, by the Hospedaje
Restaurante El Pescador Between the Lago Tikaaj.
de Atitlán Hotel and the Tzanjuyu Hotel. Enjoy
dishes like black bass and churrascos (Q45) while
watching Santiago street life from the patio, or the
Arrival and information
fluttering Christmas decoration atop the bar. By boat There are two docks in San Pedro. All
boats from villages on the north side of the lake,
Moving on including Panajachel, Santa Cruz and San Marcos,
arrive and depart from the Panajachel dock on
By boat to: Panajachel (ferries at 6am, 11.45pm, the north side of town, while boats from Santiago
1.30pm, 3pm; 1hr); San Pedro La Laguna (9 daily Atitlán use a separate dock to the southeast, a ten-
6am–5pm; 40min). The ferries are supplemented minute walk away.
by lanchas. By bus Buses drop off in front of the church.
By bus to: Guatemala City, via Cocales (7 daily Tour operators Excursion Big Foot (T7721
3am–3pm). The village is also well connected 8203, [email protected]), just left of the
by bus with all lakeside destinations except Panajachel dock, organizes hikes to a mirador
Panajachel. nicknamed “Indian Nose”, from where there’s a
great view of the lake. They also rent out horses for
San Pedro La Laguna Q25/hr (guide included), bicycles for Q50/day and
Around to the west of Volcán San Pedro kayaks for Q10/hr.
Tourist information At the time of writing there
lies the village of SAN PEDRO LA
was no Inguat office in town. Juan at Excursion Big
LAGUNA, considered by most as the
Foot (see above) can give you all the information
place to be. It’s the party destination of you need.
the lake, with happening bars and clubs
playing everything from electronica
Accommodation
to trance till the early hours of the
morning. As a town, it has everything San Pedro has some of the cheapest accommoda-
you could possibly think of (including tion around the lake, with a number of basic, clean
a pretty serious drug culture, although guesthouses – many charge less than Q30 a person
the town has clamped down a bit in the per night.
past few years). You may well love it and Hospedaje Casa Elena On the left after Nick’s
end up staying far longer than expected, Place tno phone. Not the very cheapest place
in town, but the nine simple rooms are tidy and
although you may also hate it – come
there’s a dock for swimming. The management is
and have a look for yourself.
honest about the functioning (or non-functioning)
showers. 
What to see and do Hotel Nahual Maya Turn left after Nick’s Place
T7721 8158. Well-run, friendly place with neat,
There’s a decent little beach just south- clean rooms (with bathrooms) facing a lawn with
east of town, below the road to San hammocks. 
Juan (see p.164), and some thermal Hotel Tepepul Kaan Left off Pana dock T4301
pools between the two boat docks offer 2271, and then up the first path right up the hill.
162
Very colourful rooms (verging on the kitsch side) Zoola At Zoola hotel. The food here – mainly Israeli
but spotless bathrooms, and there are hammocks – is very good and includes chicken toasties (Q30),
dotted around each floor.  meat and potatoes (Q22) and huge sandwiches. The
Hotel Tolimán On the lakeside to the left of the service is extremely slow, unfortunately, but you
dock. T7721 8114. A great cheap place with can chill on the cushions and play backgammon

guatemala
clean rooms and bathrooms and fantastic lakeside as you wait.
views. 
Hotel Villa del Lago Left off Pana dock and Drinking and nightlife
towards the end of the road T 5628 6562. Good
option with clean bathrooms and rooms, one of In addition to having good food, Buddha Bar is also
which has cable TV.  a popular evening spot. When the bars shut down
Xocomil Left off Pana dock, and then up the first for a night the “after parties” start up; these are in a

Lago de Atitlán
path right up the hill. Basic rooms, fairly clean different place every night, so you’ll just have to see
bathrooms and a small but well-equipped kitchen what’s happening. Occasionally full-moon parties
for self-caterers. Excellent value, given the low take place as well.
price.  Alegre Pub Near Pana dock, on the left. English
Zoola Left off Pana dock, and right up the pub showing premiership football and serving
hill T5543 4111 or 5847 4857, wwww traditional grub such as Sunday roast (Q38) and fish
.zoolapeople.com. By far the best option in town, and ‘n’ chips (Q38).
a great place to meet other travellers. Pleasant, clean D’Noz By Pana dock. Great place to hear some
dorms and rooms, a relaxed atmosphere created electronic tunes; they also serve Asian food and
by hammocks, a chill-out room and a TV room with show a film nightly at 7.30pm.
movies for rainy days. Book in advance.  Freedom Right at Pana dock. Probably the most
popular place in town, this combination restaurant,
Eating bar and club has a pool table, great lake views
and plays electronic and trance beats till the early
San Pedro’s restaurants, most of which are excellent hours. Try a “Freedom” shot (Q50; made of six
value for money, have a decidedly international drinks) if you want freedom from your coordination.
flavour. Vegetarians are well catered for. There are
also a few typical Guatemalan comedores in the Directory
centre of the village and by the Santiago dock.
Cinema Buddha Bar and D’Noz both show films
Restaurants daily at 7pm and 7.30pm, respectively.
Buddha Bar Left at the Pana dock. A good chill-out Exchange Banrural (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat
spot with a Buddha-shaped pizza oven on the roof 8.30am–12.30pm) will change traveller’s cheques.
overlooking the lake. On the second floor you’ll find There is an ATM by the Pana dock.
benches in the shape of an om. Good salads, Indian Internet The best set-up is above D’Noz by the
curries (Q35) and Thai food. There’s a ten percent Pana dock; you can also burn photos to disk here.
discount on food on Thurs. Mon is open-mic night, Language schools Try the Co-operative of Guate-
and films shown Tues, Thurs & Sun at 7.30pm. malan Spanish Teachers (T5398 6448 Wwww
Fata Morgana Left at Pana dock. Pizzeria and .cooperativeschoolsanpedro.com); Casa Rosario,
cafeteria that serves very good cheap pies (Q30). south of Santiago Atitlán dock (W www.casarosario
Freedom Turn left at Pana dock. Popular at all .com); Corazón Maya, south of Santiago dock
times of day, this place has a selection of excellent (T7721 8160, Wwww.corazonmaya.com); or San
international dishes (Q30–50) and great views of Pedro Spanish School, between the piers (T5715
the lake from its terrace. Live music some nights. 4604, Wwww.sanpedrospanishschool.com).
Nick’s Place By Pana dock. A great spot to relax Market In the centre of town, and mainly sells food.
and watch the day go by. Big breakfasts available Post office In the centre of town, but with erratic
for Q20, and an eclectic range of Guatemalan and hours.
international mains for Q30.
Restaurante Chile’s Right by Nick’s Place. Nicely Moving on
decorated place with wooden tables serving inter-
national and Guatemalan cuisine. Good hangover By boat Boats leave every 30min for most villages
breakfasts (Q25), coffee (Q6), spaghetti (Q35) and around the lake (first boat 6am, last boat 5pm),
veggie options. Free salsa classes Tues & Fri, live supplemented by lanchas whenever there’s enough
music Sat & Sun. interest.
163
 By bus Buses depart from opposite the church to on higher ground further away from the
Guatemala City (hourly; 5hr) and Quetzaltenango shore.
(two daily, 6am & 8am; 3hr), although the former is
not recommended as it is a dangeous route (traffic
accidents are frighteningly frequent). Alternatively, Arrival and information
guatemala

speak to Excursion Big Foot (see p.162) about

By boat Lanchas from other lakeside villages,
arranging shuttle buses to Chichicastenango,
including San Pedro, Pana and Santiago, pull up at
Quetzaltenango, Antigua, Cobán, Guatemala City
the dock, which is about 5min walk from the centre
and the Mexican border.
of town.

San Juan La Laguna

What to see and do
Lago de Atitlán

Two kilometres west of San Pedro, at the

back of another inlet and surrounded Apart from a huge stone church,
by shallow beaches, is SAN JUAN LA built to replace the colonial original
LAGUNA. The village specializes in destroyed in the 1976 earthquake,
the weaving of petates, lake-reed mats, there are no sights, as such. Instead, the
and there are two large co-ops, Las main draws are of the spiritual variety.
Artesanías de San Juan, signposted on One of these is the Las Pirámides yoga
the left from the dock, and the Asoci- and meditation retreat (see opposite),
ación de Mujeres de Color, on the right, but there’s a surplus of other practi-
both of which have goods for sale. Next tioners and masseurs, plus the requisite
to the latter is the simple Hospedaje organic bakery and a healing centre
Estrella del Lago, with secure rooms and – San Marcos Holistic Center (W www
a kitchen open to guests. Uphill, in the .sanmholisticcentre.com), which offers
centre of the village, is a quiet comedor, acupuncture, reflexology and natural
Restaurant Chi’nimaya, and almost next remedies; for a massage (Q210) all you
door, a shrine to Maximón (see p.154), need to do is sign up on the white board
the evil saint, dressed in local garb. at the entrance. It’s located next to the
Regular pick-ups run between San Unicornio hotel. Close by, the recently
Pedro and San Juan, or you can walk. opened Jazmín Therapy Centre has
Leaving the village by footpath, you’ll a geodesic dome where you can take
pass below the Tz’utujil settlement of further acupuncture and yoga classes
San Pablo La Laguna, perched high and therapy courses; they too offer
above the lake. It’s a fifteen-minute walk excellent massages (Q220) – ask for
away, and connected to the Carretera Nadia. There’s excellent swimming
Interamericana by a steep road. from a number of wooden jetties by
the lakeshore, and a mesmerizing view
San Marcos La of Atitlán’s three volcanoes, including
Laguna double-coned Tolimán, plus glimpses
SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA has a of Acatenango’s grey peak, over 50km
decidedly tranquil feel, all the more so east.
if you have just come from a few nights’
partying in San Pedro. The little village Accommodation
is a perfect place to kick back and relax
There are plenty of good accommodation options
– read a book in your hammock, catch
in town. To get to most of the places listed here,
some rays by the lake after a nice swim, get off at the westernmost dock, where Posada
take a quiet walk or treat yourself to a Schumann and Las Pirámides have jetties (look
massage at one of the holistic centres out for the mini-pyramid): all accommodation is
in town. The bulk of bohemian hotels signposted from there.
and restaurants are on the land closer Hospedaje Panabaj tno phone. Basic, locally
to the water, while the Maya village sits owned accommodation in a nice garden setting. 
164
Hotel Quetzal T 5306 5039, W www clay and straw. The birds’ wings serve as
.hotelquetzal-gt.com. Excellent-value accommo- benches, while their bodies are the restaurant’s
dation with fairly hard but clean beds; pizza (Q50) ovens.
wooden floors are burnished, which adds a nice Il Forno Right in the centre of town. A little pathway
touch.  through a vegetable garden leads you to this simple

guatemala
Hotel Silani Turn right off the dock and walk Italian restaurant serving pizzas (Q27), focaccia
till the end of the path T 2425 8088. Tranquil (Q25) and salads.
setting with superb lakeside views and a lovely Las Mañanitas At Aaculaax. Excellent place with
little treehouse to stay in, as well as some more a nice chill-out area on the terrace. Delicious fresh
traditional doubles.  breads and scrumptuous breakfasts (Q20).
Las Pirámides T 5205 7302/7151, Wwww Moon Fish One of the best places in town,
.laspiramidesdelka.com. Meditation retreat set in with great lakeside views and organic food,

Lago de Atitlán
leafy grounds. Courses (available for daily, weekly all of which is grown in the little yard at the front.
and monthly enrolment) include hatha yoga, healing Excellent huevos rancheros (Q25) and chicken
and meditation techniques, all in a tranquil garden burritos (Q26).
setting in the centre of town. Accommodation is Posada Schumann Fairly pricey, quaint outdoor
in comfortable, pyramid-shaped cabañas; rates dining area with an Old World appeal. Try the pepián
include courses but not food (which is delicious and (chicken or beef in a slightly spicy sauce; Q66) or
vegetarian).  the lacha (meat with tomato sauce; Q66).
Posada del Bosque Encantado T5208 5334, El Taller 2min up the road that heads out of town.
W www.hotelposadaencantado.com. Rooms here Built on the side of the cliff, so with unobstructed
are pleasantly decorated and with private bath. volcano views, this pleasant restaurant serves good
Outside, chair hammocks are slung around a breakfasts (Q25) and home-grown coffee, including
garden of ornamental and native flora.  espresso drinks. Custom-made textiles are woven
Unicornio t no phone, Wwww.hotelunicornio on the top floor.
.com. Inexpensive, unique English-Guatemalan-
owned place with small A-frame huts and rooms
(none with bath) in a nice garden, with a kitchen Moving on
and sauna. Excellent rates for single travellers. 
By boat Boats leave every 30min from the dock,
serving most villages around the lake (first boat
treat yourself

Aaculaax T5729 6101, W www 6.15am, last boat 5.15pm).

.aaculaax.com. This fantastic,
ecologically minded boutique JAIbalito
hotel was built by a German
craftsman from thousands JAIBALITO, an isolated lakeside
of recycled bottles, wood settlement nestling between soaring
and stained glass – giant milpa-clad slopes, remains resolutely
glass butterflies double as Kaqchikel – very little Spanish is
lampshades. Some of the spoken, and few women have ever
bathrooms are made of stone, journeyed much beyond Lago de
with windows of recycled glass and
Atitlán – though the opening of two
papier-mâché. Dorms are available,
but pricier private rooms are set on
new hotels means that outside influ-
two floors and come with stereo, ence is growing. Both the Volcano
fridge, kitchenette, living room, Lodge (T 5410 2237 or 5744 0620,
terrace and showers carved in stone. W www.vulcanolodge.com,  ) and La
Two rooms have a Jacuzzi on their Casa del Mundo (see box, p.166) have
private terrace. Dorms  , doubles  their own individual charm. From
Jaibalito it’s around an hour to Santa
Cruz along a glorious, easy-to-follow
Eating path that parallels the steep hillside.
Los Abrazos On the road leading west into the Lanchas to Jaibalito leave San Pedro
centre. The only sculpted restaurant in Guatemala and Panajachel (25min) regularly;
– eagle, condor and Mother Earth figures are the last ones are at 5pm and 7.30pm
made of cob, an earth-friendly mixture of sand, respectively.
165
 On the shore, you’ll find the Iguana
A
treat yourself
La Casa del Mundo Wwww Perdida (T 5706 4117, W www.laigua
.lacasademundo.com. This
naperdida.com), owned by an English-
astounding place, perched
above the lake, is the
American couple, with one of the most
culmination of twelve years’ work convivial atmospheres in Lago de Atitlán.
guatemala

by its owners, a warm American- There are basic dorms (), singles ()
Guatemalan host family. and doubles (; the “Jerry Garcia” room
There’s a range of atmospheric has its own balcony), as well as more
accommodation, including luxurious rooms (doubles , triples  ).
doubles (rooms 1, 3, 11, 12 and It’s the gorgeous, peaceful site overlooking
13 have the best views), detached
the lake that really makes this place.
The western highlands

stone cabins and a suite. There’s also

a good restaurant with family-style
Dinner (Q50) is a wholesome, three-
meals (dinner Q75 per person) and course communal affair. There are fancy
guests can rent kayaks and use the dress nights on Saturdays and the hotel
lakeside hot tub (Q275 for up to 10 also offers yoga classes and has massage
people). Book ahead. – therapists on site. The Iguana is also home
to a professional PADI dive school, ATI
Divers (in Panajachel; T 7762 2646).
Santa cruz la laguna Lanchas leave Panajachel about every
Set well back from the lake on a shelf 30 minutes or when the boat is full,
100m or so above the water, SANTA from 6am to 7pm. The last one from San
CRUZ LA LAGUNA is the largest of Pedro leaves at 5pm.
the lake’s northwest villages, with a
population of around four thousand.
There isn’t much to see here, apart
from a fine sixteenth-century church,
and most people spend their time by The western
the lake swimming or just chilling out
with a book. Alternatively, there’s some highlands
excellent hiking, including a walk to
a waterfall above the village football Guatemala’s western highlands are
pitch, and another to Sololá along a home to some of the most dramatic
spectacular path that takes around and breathtaking scenery in the entire
three hours. It is highly recommended country. The area also has the highest
you go with a guide – this can be organ- concentration of one of the Americas’
ized at La Iguana Perdida. largest indigenous groups, the Maya.

Market days
Make an effort to catch as many highland market days as possible – they’re second
only to local fiestas in offering a glimpse of the traditional Guatemalan way of life.
Monday Chimaltenango; Zunil.
Tuesday Chajul; Totonicapán; Nebaj.
Wednesday Chimaltenango; Todos Santos Cuchumatán; Santiago Sacatepéquez.
Thursday Chichicastenango; Nebaj; Sacapulas; San Juan Atitán; San Lucas
Tolimán.
Friday Chajul; Chimaltenango; Nebaj; San Francisco El Alto; Santa María de Jesús.
Saturday Todos Santos Cuchumatán; Totonicapán.
Sunday Chichicastenango; Momostenango; Nebaj; San Juan Atitán; San Lucas
Tolimán; San Martín Sacatepéquez; Santa María de Jesús.

166
 highland HISTORY
The Maya have lived in the Guatemalan highlands for some two thousand years.
The Spanish arrived in the area in 1523, making their first permanent settlement
at Iximché (see p.153), the capital of their Kaqchikel Maya allies. Not long after,

guatemala
Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado moved his base to a site near modern-day
Antigua, and gradually brought the highlands under a degree of Spanish control.
Eventually, Antigua also served as the administrative centre for the whole of Central
America and Chiapas (now in Mexico). In 1773, however, the city was destroyed by
a massive earthquake and the capital was moved to its present site.
The arrival of the Spanish caused great hardship for the native Maya. Not only

The western highlands

were their numbers decimated by Spanish weaponry, but waves of infectious
diseases also swept through the population. Over time, indigenous labour became
the backbone of the Spanish Empire, with its indigo and cacao plantations. The
departure of the Spanish in 1821 and subsequent independence brought little
change at village level. Ladino authority replaced that of the Spanish, but Maya
were still required to work the coastal plantations and at times were press-ganged
to work, often in horrific conditions.
In the late 1970s, guerrilla movements began to develop in opposition to
Guatemala’s military rule, seeking support from the highland population and
establishing themselves in the area. The Maya became the victims in this process,
caught between the guerrillas and the army. A total of 440 villages were destroyed;
around 200,000 people died and thousands more fled the country, seeking refuge in
Mexico. Despite the harsh conditions and terrific adversity the Maya lived through,
traditional costume is still worn in many areas (particularly by women), a plethora
of indigenous languages still spoken and some remote areas even still observe the
260-day Tzolkin calendar.

Languages and traditional costume still also offers an insight into indigenous
remain largely intact – probably the Maya society in the highlands. Over the
most striking dress of all is that worn in years, Maya culture and folk Catholi-
Todos Santos Cuchumatán. From the cism have syncretised here; the church
wild and ragged mountains surrounding overtly accepts this unconventional
Nebaj to the bustling colourful market of pagan worship, evident in the billowing
Chichicastenango, you are bound to be clouds of incense that more often than
captivated by the numerous riches the not envelop the church building. You’ll
region has to offer. The western highlands also see traditional weaving adhered to
are also home to the country’s second here as well, mostly by the women, who
most populous city, Quetzaltenango, wear beautiful, heavily embroidered
which draws numerous language students huipiles. For the town’s fiesta (Dec 14–
and voluntary workers. Do note that 21), and on Sundays, though, a handful
travelling in some parts of the highlands of cofrades (elders of the religious
can be arduous, although in recent years hierarchy) still wear traditional clothing
the government has heavily invested in and carry spectacular silver proces-
sional crosses and incense burners.
roads, many of which are now paved.

Chichicastenango What to see and do

CHICHICASTENANGO, Guatemala’s Although Chichi’s main attraction is
“mecca del turismo”, is known best for its undoubtedly its vibrant markets, the
twice-weekly markets, which are some town also offers other sights of cultural
of the most colourful in the country. It interest.
167
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 Markets – but many of the goods are geared to the
Most visitors come to Chichicastenango tourist trade, so prices are high. Make
for its markets, which fill the town’s sure your bargaining abilities are up to
central plaza and all surrounding streets snuff, as they’ll be needed. The trading
on Sundays and Thursdays – Sunday is starts early in the morning, and goes on
guatemala

the busiest. Fruit and vegetable vendors until late afternoon.

congregate inside the covered Centro
Comercial (which adjoins the plaza); Iglesia de Santo Tomás
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souvenirs. The crowds are eclectic – you’ll northeast corner of the plaza, was built in
be surrounded by myriad foreigners and 1540 and now is a local religious centre,
The western highlands

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170 $"
the entire building is alive with the souls carvings (some two thousand years
of the dead, each located in a specific old). Also on show are some interesting
part of the church. Before entering, it’s old photographs of Chichi and local
customary to make offerings in a fire at weavings, masks and carvings.
the base of the steps or to burn incense in

guatemala
perforated cans. Don’t enter the building Pascual Abaj
by the front door, which is reserved for The Iglesia de Santo Tomás is not the
cofrades and senior church officials; use only religious site in the area: many of the
the side door instead and be warned that hills that surround Chichicastenango are
taking photographs inside the building topped with shrines. The closest of these,
is considered deeply offensive – don’t Pascual Abaj, is less than a kilometre

The western highlands

even contemplate it. You are likely to find from the plaza and regularly visited by
the devout here at all times of the day, in tourists. The shrine comprises small
particular on Sundays, when the church altars facing a stern pre-Columbian
is enveloped in incense and indigenous sculpture. Offerings are usually overseen
Maya swing censers and mutter prayers by a shaman, and range from flowers to
on the church steps. At the entrance sacrificed chickens, always incorporating
there are candles scattered around the plenty of incense, alcohol and incanta-
floor; these are put here by living Maya in tions. Remember that any ceremonies
honour of their ancestors, some of whom you may witness are deeply serious
are buried beneath the church. – keep your distance and be sensitive
Beside the church is a former about taking photographs. To get to
monastery, now used by the parish Pascual Abaj, walk down the hill beside
administration. It was here that a Spanish Santo Tomás, take the first right, 9 Calle,
priest, Francisco Ximénez, became the and follow this as it winds its way out of
first outsider to be shown the Popol Vuh, town. You’ll soon cross a stream and then
the Maya holy book; it is said that the a well-signposted route takes you past a
Maya became interested in worshipping mask workshop, continuing uphill for
here after Ximénez began to read the ten minutes through a pine forest.
book in the early eighteenth century. His
copy of the manuscript is now housed in Arrival and information
the Newberry Library in Chicago: the By bus There’s no bus station in Chichi, but the
original was lost some time later in the corner of 5 C and 5 Av operates loosely as a
eighteenth century. The text itself, a poem terminal.
of over nine thousand lines that details Tourist information There is no Inguat in town,
the cosmology, mythology and traditional but there is a tourist office (daily 8am–8pm;
history of the K’iche’, was written just to T7756 2022, [email protected]) right by
the theatre. However, this has very limited informa-
the north of here, in Utatlán, shortly after
tion and irregular hours that depend on the staff’s
the arrival of the Spanish. eating and sleeping patterns. The Museo Rossbach
is a lot better informed.
Rossbach Museum Travel agent Chichi Turkaj Tours (T 7742 1359 or
On the south side of the plaza, often 5927 9217, [email protected]), in
hidden by stalls on market day, the the Hotel Chuguila, 5 Av 5–24; they can come and
Rossbach Museum (Tues, Wed, Fri & Sat pick you up from Guatemala City airport and take
you straight to Chichi.
8am–12.30pm & 2–4.30pm, Thurs 8am–
4pm, Sun 8am–2pm; Q5) houses a broad
collection of pre-Columbian artefacts, Accommodation
mostly small pieces of ceramics (including There are a few good budget hotels in town. These
some demonic-looking incense burners), can be in short supply on Saturday nights before
jade necklaces and earrings, and stone the Sunday market, but you shouldn’t have a
171
 problem at any other time. Prices can also rise on the plaza on market day. Alternatively, there are a
market days, though at other times you can usually number of excellent cheap restaurants around the
negotiate a good deal. square.
Chalet Hotel 3 C 7–44 T7756 1360.
Welcoming hotel with little wooden carved Restaurants
Banquetes Ventura Inside the Centro Comercial,
guatemala

animals and knick-knacks dotted around all the

floors. Highland wool blankets and textiles add on the upper floor. Offers a terrific view of the
pleasing decorative touches to the comfortable beds. vegetable market and good, simple local food
Free internet, and breakfast (Q20) is available.  – breakfasts start at Q21. Closed Mon.
Hospedaje El Salvador 5 Av 10–09 T7756 1329. Café-Restaurant La Villa de Los Cofrades 6 C
Hotel with a warren of bare but fairly neat rooms, a & 5 Av, on the first floor. Observe local Chichi life
bizarre colour scheme and low rates, although the from the first-floor balcony while you enjoy great
The western highlands

communal bathrooms are not as spick and span as churrascos and breakfasts (Q25). Real coffee and
they might be.  wine are available.
Hospedaje San Jerónimo 5a Av & 12 C T7756 Casa San Juan Beside El Calvario church, at the
1838. This quiet, somewhat institutional hospedaje southern end of the plaza. Restaurant/bar with
has clean, fairly bare rooms, all with en-suite, hot- a stylish interior, including plenty of artwork on
water baths. Nice views of Chichi from the top-floor display. The menu includes interesting sandwiches
balcony.  (Q12) as well as Guatemalan dishes such as pepián
Hotel Girón 6 C 4–52 T7756 1156. Spacious rooms de pollo.
with clean bathrooms and safe parking. Interesting Kieqik Wai’m ja Inside the Centro Comercial,
plant pots made out of tree roots line the stairs.  on the upper floor. The name may be unpro-
Hotel Mashito 8 C 1–72 (on the road to the nounceable, but the local food is tasty and
cemetery) T7756 1343. Painted bright green, reliable and the balcony views of the church of
this hotel has hot water and clean rooms, all with Santo Tomás are unrivalled. Try the delicious
cable TV.  chiles rellenos (Q30).
Hotel Pop Wuj 6 Av, between 10 & 11 C T7756 La Parrilla 6 C & 5 Av. Set in a little courtyard,
2014. Pleasantly decorated, spotless rooms, this is a good place to get away from the market
all en suite. The most expensive doubles have crowds. Meat lovers must try the especial la parrilla
humungous beds. There is also a restaurant (Q50).
downstairs, although it’s fairly dark.  Tu Café On the west side of plaza. Unpretentious
Posada El Teléfono 8 C 1–64 T7756 1197. place with plenty of choices for breakfast (Q22), as
Friendly guesthouse with small, clean, bare rooms well as antojitos, sandwiches, carne adobada and
scattered up and down steep staircases. The good lunch-time mains (Q30).
communal bathroom is kept tidy. 
Directory
treat yourself

Posada El Arco 4 C 4–36 Exchange Banrural, 6 C (Mon–Fri & Sun 9am–5pm,

T 7756 1255. Excellent Sat 8am–noon) has a MasterCard/Cirrus ATM and
guesthouse with eight large, changes US dollars. Banco Industrial, next door
attractive rooms with good (Mon 10am–2pm, Wed & Fri 10am–5pm, Thurs &
wooden beds and reading Sun 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–3pm) has a Visa/Plus
lights. Each room is individually ATM.
decorated with local fabrics Internet C@fenet, 6C 5–37 has the fastest connec-
and wooden statues; some tion in town for Q8/hr, although apparently the
also have fireplaces, and rooms speed much depends on weather conditions.
6 and 7 even have access to Post office North of the square on 4 Av (Mon–Fri
a pleasant terrace. There’s also 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm).
a beautiful garden and stunning
countryside views. 
Moving on
By bus Buses heading between Guatemala City
Eating and Santa Cruz del Quiché pass through
Chichicastenango about every 20min, stopping
There is plenty of good-value Guatemalan comedor in town for a few minutes to load up with
food available in Chichicastenango, especially in passengers.
172
Santa Cruz del Hotel Luisito 10 C 00–27 T7755 2547. Good-
value place with simple rooms and spotless
Quiché bathrooms. 
SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHÉ, known Hotel San Pascual 7 C & 1 Av T7755 1107. Run
locally as “El Quiché”, is capital of its by a lovely old couple and set in a nice courtyard.

guatemala
eponymous department, and half an The rooms – without private bath – are a bargain,
hour north of Chichicastenango. A but the communal bathrooms do not have hot
water. Excellent rates for single travellers. 
good paved road connects the two
towns, running through pine forests
and ravines, and past the Laguna Eating
Lemoa, a lake which, according to local

The western highlands

Restaurante Frutilandia By the church. Break-
legend, was originally filled with tears fasts for Q18, sandwiches for Q9 and fresh juices
wept by the wives of K’iche’ kings after from Q4.
their husbands had been slaughtered Café San Miguel Opposite the Church. A clean
by the Spanish. The town is best used restaurant with good-value food (empanadas for Q5
as a base to explore the surrounding and sandwiches for Q11). Pastries also available
area, particularly Utatlán and some at the front.
of the department’s smaller towns; it’s
not home to any particular attractions Moving on
of its own. In the central plaza there’s
a large colonial church, built by the Buses to: Guatemala City (every 20min 3.30am–
Dominicans with stone from the ruins 5pm; 3hr 30min) via Chichicastenango (30min) and
Los Encuentros (1hr); Nebaj (7 daily 8am–5pm;
of Utatlán. In the middle of the plaza, a
2hr 45min); Quetzaltenango (10 daily; 3hr);
defiant statue of the K’iche’ hero, Tecún
Uspantán (7 daily 8am–4pm; 3hr 30min).
Umán, stands prepared for battle. His
position is undermined somewhat by
Around El Quiché
the ugly urban tangle of hardware stores,
bakeries and trash that surround the It’s certainly worth taking the time to
square, as well as the spectacularly ugly explore El Quiché’s surrounding areas,
market building, home to the Thursday home to some of the most breathtaking
and Sunday produce markets. scenery in the entire country. Although
not much remains of the ruins of
Arrival and information Gumarkaaj, the history of the area is
fascinating and serves to highlight the
By bus Buses pull into the bus terminal, which region’s rich Maya heritage. The site is
is about four blocks south and a couple east of also still used for religious ceremonies.
the central plaza. The street directly north of the
terminal is 1 Av, which takes you into the heart of
Utatlán (Gumarkaaj)
the town.
Exchange Several banks will change your travel- Early in the fifteenth century, the K’iche’
ler’s cheques and US dollars, including Banrural king Gucumatz (Feathered Serpent)
(Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–noon), which has a founded a new capital, Gumarkaaj. A
MasterCard and Visa ATM, and Banco Agromercantil hundred years later, the Spanish arrived,
(Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm), also with a renamed the city Utatlán and then
Visa ATM; both are in the plaza. destroyed it. Today you can visit the
Internet Try Internet Linus, just off the square
ruins, about 4km to the west of Santa
inside the Comercial Linus (Q6/hr).
Cruz del Quiché.
Once a substantial city, there has
Accommodation been little restoration at the site (8am–
Hotel Leo 1 Av 9–02 T7755 0772/0530. Rooms 5pm; Q20), and only a few of the main
here are pleasant, spacious and clean, and all have structures are still recognizable, most
private bath, cable TV and hot water.  buried beneath grassy mounds, but it
173
 is impressive nonetheless. The small church and a good market every
museum has a scale model of what Thursday and Sunday. The town is
the original city may once have looked worth visiting for the journey itself,
like. You should be able to make out as the bus winds its way up and down
the main plaza, three temple buildings, the slopes of the ragged hills that form
guatemala

the foundations of a circular tower and part of the dramatic Cuchumatanes

the remains of a ball-court. Beneath mountain range. A two-minute walk
the plaza is a long tunnel containing outside of town takes you to some small
nine shrines. Perhaps the most inter- salt flats; Luisa Aceituno, at the corner
esting thing about the site today is that house opposite the Tujaal sign, will sell
costumbristas, traditional Maya priests, you a bag of black salt (Q5), which is
The western highlands

still come to these shrines to perform said to have medicinal purposes.

religious rituals. If a ceremony is Getting to Sacapulas is easy – catch
taking place you’ll hear the murmur- any bus from Santa Cruz del Quiché
ings of prayers and smell incense smoke heading to Uspantán or Nebaj. Leaving
as you enter the tunnel; don’t disturb can be a bit trickier; in the late after-
the proceedings by approaching too noon, buses south to Quiché are fewer,
closely. the last running around 4pm. There are
A taxi from Santa Cruz del Quiché’s seven daily buses to Nebaj (1hr 45min),
plaza with an hour at the ruins costs two daily buses to Huehuetenango
around Q100. To walk, head south from (4.30am & 5.30am; 2hr) and seven
the plaza along 2 Avenida, and then turn buses to Uspantán (2hr), plus regular
right down 10 Calle, which will take you pick-ups on all routes. If you get
all the way out to the site – it’s a pleasant stuck here, there are two good, basic
forty-minute hike. You’re welcome to hospedajes: Hospedaje y Restaurante Río
camp close to the ruins, but there are no Negro (T 5385 7363,  ) and Comedor
facilities or food. y Hospedaje Tujaal (T 5983 5698,  );
neither place has private bathrooms, but
Sacapulas both serve good food.
Just over an hour from El Quiché,
spectacularly situated on the Río Nebaj
Negro and beneath the foothills of the NEBAJ is the centre of Ixil country,
Cuchumatanes, lies the little town of and a rather harmonious mixture of
SACAPULAS, with a small colonial old and new: white adobe walls and

The Ixil triangle

The three small towns of Nebaj, Chajul and Cotzal, high in the Cuchumatanes,
form the hub of the Ixil-speaking region, a massive area of over 100,000
inhabitants whose language is not spoken anywhere else. For all its charm and
relaxed atmosphere today, the region’s history is a bitter one. After many setbacks,
the Spanish finally managed to take Nebaj in 1530, but by then they were so
enraged that not only did they burn the town to the ground, but they condemned
the survivors to slavery. Independence didn’t improve conditions – the Ixil people
continued to be regarded as a source of cheap labour, and were forced to work
on the coastal plantations. Over a century later, in the late 1970s and early 1980s,
the area was hit by horrific violence when it became the main theatre of operation
for the EGP (the Guerrilla Army of the Poor). Caught up in the conflict, the civilians
suffered terribly. Despite this bloody legacy, the region’s fresh green hills are
some of the most beautiful in the country, and the three towns are friendly and
accommodating.

174
cobbled streets sit side-by-side new which people were herded after their
concrete structures. Though remote, homes had been destroyed by the army
it’s well worth a visit, both for the during the civil war. If you walk on
glimpse it affords of the traditional Ixil through the village and out the other
way of life – the weaving, especially, side, you arrive at the alpine-lodge-like

guatemala
spectacular, with the women’s huipiles Finca San Antonio (T 5305 6240), run by
an artistic tangle of complex geomet- an Italian family who have lived here for
rical designs in superb greens, yellows, more than fifty years. They make some
reds and oranges – but also for the of the country’s best cheese, which they
spectacular hikes that can be done in sell at pretty reasonable prices, and they
the surrounding areas. also rent out delightful chalets ( ).

The western highlands

What to see and do Arrival and information
The plaza is the community’s focal By bus Buses from Santa Cruz del Quiché (7 daily)
point, lined by its major shops, munic- pull into the bus terminal, two blocks southeast of
ipal buildings and police station. The the plaza.
small market, two blocks southeast, Tourist information The best place for informa-
bears investigation. On Thursdays tion is El Descanso restaurant, two blocks north of
the plaza on 3 C, where an excellent community
and Sundays the town explodes, as
tourism initiative has been established and
out-of-town traders visit with second-
numerous treks (from Q125/day) can be arranged.
hand clothing from the US, stereos
from Taiwan and Korea and chickens,
eggs and produce from the highlands. Accommodation
The town church, a block west of the Hospedaje Edmundo By the Quetzal petrol station
market, is also worth a look – inside its T7755 8423. Family-run, this hospedaje appears
door on the left are dozens of crosses, to be a converted shack. Two people can share a
forming a memorial to those killed single bed (you can just about fit in the S position)
in the civil war. If you’re here for the for a bargain price – no doubt an interesting
second week in August, you’ll witness experience if you really need to save those extra
the Nebaj fiesta, which includes proces- quetzales. 
Hospedaje Ilebal Tenamsa 5min walk from the
sions, dances, drinking, fireworks and a
plaza on the road to Chajul/Cotzal T 7755 8039.
marimba-playing marathon.
Well-run blue hospedaje with decent, very clean
rooms, some with TV and private bathroom, reliably
Hiking hot showers and safe parking. 
There are several beautiful hikes in the Hostal Media Luna Medio Sol T5847 4747. The
hills around Nebaj, for which guides can Descanso restaurant (see p.176) can show you the
be arranged at El Descanso (see p.176). way here. Clean, simple rooms and dorm beds, as
One of the most interesting takes you well as cooking facilities, a ping-pong table and TV
to the village of Acul, two hours away. room. Dorms  , doubles 
Starting from the church in Nebaj, cross Popi’s 5 C, two and a half blocks west of the
the plaza and head along 5 C past Hotel square T7756 0159, Wwww.mayanhope.org.
Run by an NGO with profits going to the local
Turansa. At the bottom of the dip, after
special-needs school, this hostel has excellent-
Tienda y Comedor El Oasis, the road
value spacious dorms and private rooms. Also has
divides: take the right-hand fork and a cheap restaurant, internet and book exchange.
head out of town along a dirt track. Dorms  , doubles 
This switchbacks up a steep hillside, and
heads over a narrow pass into the next
Eating
valley, where it drops down into Acul.
The village was one of the country’s Asados el Pasabien On the road to Sacapulas,
original so-called “model villages” into this restaurant excels at its churrascos (Q35).
175
 El Descanso Relaxed place with sofas, rocking Regular buses leave Cotzal for Nebaj
chairs, arm chairs and a number of magazines to between 5.30am and 5pm. It’s possible
flick through as you wait for your food, which is well- to also visit Chajul the same day if you
prepared and inexpensive (burgers Q20, spaghetti
get an early start from Nebaj.
Q22, burritos Q22 and meat churrascos Q28).
guatemala

Popi’s Restaurant Inside Popi’s hostel. This little

restaurant serves excellent-value food (burgers Q14, Chajul
burritos Q15 and breakfasts from Q12). Run by an CHAJUL, made up mainly of old
NGO; all profits go to the local special-needs school. adobe houses, with wooden beams and
red-tiled roofs blackened by the smoke
Directory of cooking fires, is worth visiting as it
The western highlands

is the most determinedly traditional

Exchange Banrural, in the shopping area under-
and least bilingual of the Ixil towns.
neath the plaza, has a 5B ATM for MasterCard/
The women wear earrings made of
Cirrus/Visa cards.
Internet You can surf the net at Popi’s or at El old coins strung up on lengths of wool
Descanso restaurant; the latter are behind the and dress in bright reds and blues,
W www.nebaj.org website (Spanish only). while boys still use blowpipes to hunt
Language schools You will find the Nebaj small birds, a skill that dates from the
Language School in the same building as earliest of times. The colonial church
El Descanso restaurant. is home to the Christ of Golgotha
and the focus of a large pilgrimage on
Moving on the second Friday of Lent, a particu-
larly good time to be here. If you want
By bus to: Guatemala City (11pm; 6hr); Santa to stay, local families rent out beds
Cruz del Quiché (2am, 3am, 4am, 5.30am, 8am,
in their houses to the steady trickle
11.30am; 2hr 30min). For Huehuetenango or
Uspantán catch the bus to El Quiché and change
of travellers who come to town; you
in Sacapulas. Buses for Chajul and Cotzal leave won’t have to look for them, they will
regularly between 5.30am and 5pm. find you.
By pick-up Pick-ups and trucks supplement the On market days (Tues & Fri) there
buses; the best place to hitch south is on the road are regular morning buses from Nebaj
out of town. between 5.30am and 5pm, returning at
11.30am and noon. You can also walk
San Juan Cotzal here from San Juan Cotzal, two to three
SAN JUAN COTZAL, the second of the hours away through the spectacular
three Ixil towns, is about 30 to 45 minutes Ixil countryside. Follow the unpaved
away from Nebaj. The town sits in a road that branches off to the main
gentle dip in the valley, which is sheltered Nebaj–Cotzal road just before you enter
somewhat beneath the Cuchumatanes Cotzal.
and often wrapped in a damp blanket of
mist. Cotzal attracts very few Western Quetzaltenango
travellers – there’s really nothing to do, QUETZALTENANGO, Guatemala’s
though there is some great hill-walking second city, sits in a beautiful mountain
nearby – so you may find that many valley ringed by volcanoes. In pre-
people assume you’re an aid worker or Columbian times the town belonged
attached to an Evangelical church. It’s to the Mam Maya people, who named
best to time your visit to coincide with the town Xelajú, meaning “under the
market days (Wed & Sat), when there’s rule of the ten mountains” – hence the
more traffic around. Intricate turquoise name, Xela (pronounced “Shay-La”),
huipiles are worn by the Maya women by which the city still goes; it was the
here, who also weave bags and rope from Spaniards who dubbed the city Quetzal-
the fibres of the maguey plant. tenango, roughly translated as “the land
176
of the quetzal”. Xela went on to flourish la Cultura (Mon–Fri 8am–noon &
during colonial times, thanks in large 2–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm; Q6), the city’s
part to the area’s abundant coffee crops, blatant architectural homage to ancient
but a massive earthquake in 1902 Greece. On the ground floor you’ll find
destroyed nearly the entire city. Subse- a display of sports trophies and a room

guatemala
quently almost completely rebuilt (all dedicated to the marimba, along with
the Neoclassical buildings that you can assorted documents, photographs and
see today date to this time), Xela is once pistols from the liberal revolution and
again one of the country’s major centres. the state of Los Altos, which declared
Nonetheless, it manages to preserve an itself the sixth state of the Federal
air of subdued, dignified calm, and Republic of Central America in the

The western highlands

remains popular among travellers, 1830s, with Xela as capital. Upstairs
especially language students looking there are some modest Maya artefacts,
for more of an authentic Guatemalan historic photographs and a bizarre
experience than their counterparts in natural history room. Among the dusty
Antigua. displays of stuffed bats, pickled snakes
and animal skins are the macabre
What to see and do remains of assorted freaks of nature,
including a sheep born with eight legs
There aren’t that many sights in the city and a four-horned goat.
itself, but if you have an hour or two to
spare then it’s worth wandering through The rest of the city
the streets, soaking up the atmosphere Away from the plaza, the city spreads
and taking in the museum in the Casa out, a mixture of the old and new.
de la Cultura. The city is divided into The commercial heart is 14 Avenida,
zones; you’ll primarily be interested in complete with blaring neon signs. At
zonas 1 and 3, home to the central plaza the top of 14 Avenida, at the junction
and the bus terminal, respectively. Most with 1 Calle, stands the Teatro Munic­
places are within walking distance, ipal, another grandiose Neoclassical
except the bus terminal. building (see p.182 for performance
information). Further afield, Xela’s role
Parque Centro América as a regional centre of trade is more in
The Parque Centro América, with evidence. Out in Zona 3 is the Mercado
a mass of mock-Greek columns and La Democracia, a vast covered
imposing bank facades, is at the centre complex with stalls daily selling local
of Xela. There’s none of the buzz of produce. There’s another Greek-style
business that you’d expect, though, structure right out on the edge of
except on the first Sunday of the month town, the Minerva Temple, built to
when the plaza hosts a good artisan honour President Barrios’s enthusiasm
market with blankets, baskets and piles for education – it has no practical
of weavings for sale. On the west side purpose. Below the temple are the
of the plaza is the impressive Pasaje sprawling daily produce market, and
Enríquez; once planned as a sparkling the Minerva Bus Terminal. It’s here
arcade of upmarket shops, it was left that you can really sense the city’s role
derelict for many years, though it has as the centre of the western highlands,
now been partially revived. with indígena traders from all over the
area doing business. Just behind the
Casa de la Cultura market, La Pradera shopping plaza
At the southern end of the plaza, next boasts over one hundred stores and a
to the tourist office, is the Casa de multiplex cinema.
177
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Tour operators Adrenalina Tours, inside Pasaje

Arrival and information Enríquez, Plaza Central (T 7761 4509, W www
.adrenalinatours.com), offers various tours of
By bus Unfortunately, virtually all buses arrive
the region, including trips to Zunil and Fuentes
and depart from nowhere near the centre of town.
Georginas and San Andrés Xecul, shuttle buses,
Second-class buses pull into the chaotic Minerva
volcano climbs (Volcán Santa María from US$15
Bus Terminal on the city’s northwestern edge; to get
per person) and sells airline tickets. Casa
to the main plaza, walk 300m through the market
Iximulew, 15 Av & 5 C, Zona 1 (T 761 5057,
stalls to 4 C and catch a microbus marked “Parque”.
W www.mayaexplor.com), runs organized trips
There are three main companies operating first-
to most of the volcanoes and sights around Xela.
class buses to and from the capital, each with their
Quetzaltrekkers, inside Casa Argentina (see
own private terminal: Líneas Américas, 7 Av 3–33,
opposite; T 761 4520, W www.quetzalventures
Zona 2 (T7761 2063); Alamo, 14 Av 5–15, Zona
.com) offers cultural tours and hiking trips to
3 (T7767 7117); and Galgos, C Rodolfo Robles
volcanoes with all profits going to a charity for
17–43, Zona 1 (T7761 2248).
street children.
178
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Tourist information The tourist office, on the spacious rooms and dorms with hot showers and
main plaza (Mon–Fri 8am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat an excellent restaurant that also serves alcohol.
8am–1pm; T 761 4931 E [email protected] Rates include internet and a massive delicious
.gt), has maps and local information. To find what’s breakfast. 
on in Xela, pick up a copy of Xela Who (www Casa Argentina 12 Diagonal 8–37 T7761
.xelawho.com), available in many of the popular 2470/0010, [email protected]. Xela’s
bars and cafés. definitive budget choice, with many single rooms, a
large dorm ( ), a kitchen, a sun terrace and a café.
Accommodation Some of the water is heated with solar panels. It’s
also the home of Quetzaltrekkers (see opposite). 
Once you’ve made it to the plaza, all the places Casa Argentina 2 6 C 15–37 T7761 2470/0010.
listed here are within a ten-minute walk. Fairly scruffy rooms reflect the low rates, though
Black Cat Hostel 13 Av 3–33 T7761 kitchen facilities, hot water and purified water are
2091, Wwww.blackcathostels.net. A good included. Good prices for single travellers and long-
place to meet other travellers, this hostel has clean term stays. 
179
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Dicap 6 C 9–24 T5287 1921, Wwww Miguel de Cervantes Guest House 12 Av

.dicapresidence.com.gt. Though the building is 8–31 T 7765 5554, W www.learn2speakspanish
soulless, the rooms here are spacious, with nice .com. Pleasant little guesthouse within a Spanish
comfortable sturdy beds, and there is a huge roof language school. Living room with TV, cooking
terrace with stunning views and sunbeds. Request facilities and a Continental breakfast
room no. 7, which has a humungous double bed (Q10 included. 
more). Cooking facilities and free purified water.  Pensión Altense 9 C 10–41, T7765 4648. Clean,
Hostal Don Diego 6 C 15–20 T7763 1000 simple rooms with cable TV are set on interior
or 5511 3211, Edondiegoxela@hotmail courtyard with secure parking. A few sofas and
.com. Excellent option with a pleasant courtyard, wooden chairs line the hallway. 
guests’ kitchen and basic rooms. Rates include Pensión Andina 8 Av 6–07 T7761 4012. Set on
free purified water and breakfast. Very inexpensive an interior courtyard, the rooms here are bare and
weekly and monthly deals.  clean. There are also – rather bizarrely – a few soft
Hotel Horiani 12 Av 1–19 T5486 0164. Very toy parrots hanging from a tree. 
basic and fairly stuffy small rooms, but very good
value given the price.  Eating
Hotel Kiktem-já 13 Av 7–18 T7761 4304. Simple
but nicely decorated rooms with wooden floors. Quetzaltenango has a fairly moderate choice of
All have en-suite, hot-water baths and cable TV. cafés and restaurants, suiting its modest, unpreten-
Secure parking.  tious character. Almost nowhere opens before 8am,
Hotel Posada Real 15 Av 3–08 T7761 4142. New so forget early breakfasts.
place with spotless rooms (one with a fireplace) and
a little interior courtyard. 
180
Cafés vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes (huge
Blue Angel Video Café 7 C 15–19. Popular, social samosas Q15). Closed Mon.
hangout with a daily video programme. The menu La Taquería 8 Av & 5 C. Enjoyable Mexican food
is mostly vegetarian, with sandwiches for Q15 with good-value tacos (Q9), enchiladas (Q28) and
and pastas Q20; wine by the glass is also served, grilled meats (Q37).

guatemala
although the selection is limited. Try the delicious Ut’z Hua 12 Av & 3 C. Excellent choice specializing
home-made chocolate or the excellent burritos. in Guatemalan cuisine, including jocon, quichom
Free wi-fi. (both Q30) and seven kinds of soup (Q20). Always a
Café Baviera 5 C 13–14. Anachronistic pine- daily special, too.
panelled coffeehouse with old photos on the walls.
This place is mainly about coffee (Q6), but the Drinking and nightlife
cakes, croissants (Q20) and sandwiches (Q30) are

The western highlands

fine too. There are a number of lively bars that fill up at the
El Cuartito 13 Av 7–09. Relaxed café with weekend; the main area for nightlife in central Xela
crooked bookshelves, funky lights (some is 14 Av A.
made with glass jars and lots of bulbs, others just
with blue bottles) and a hanging chair and door. Bars and clubs
The international food is all organic (bagels Q12.50, Bajo La Luna 8 Av 3–72. In an atmospheric cellar,
falafel pita Q26, coffee Q8) and free-trade. Live this relaxed wine bar with background tunes is
music on some nights. Free wi-fi. perfect for a quiet drink. You can nibble on a cheese
La Luna 8 Av 4–11. Crammed with curios and platter (Q20–35) while you sip.
antiques, La Luna has seven different varieties of Café Clásicos Diagonal 13 8–02. Little café/bar
wonderful drinking chocolate (Q6). with a comfy feel and a number of Indian wooden
Smoothies Rum 7 C 15–23. A relaxed café with masks and Hawaiian posters adorning the walls.
good bagels (Q12) and veggie and non-veggie curries Veggie food served. Sat is karaoke night, and
(Q40). You can meditate or smoke a hookah pipe in merengue, salsa, 80s music and hip-hop are also
the Indian room at the back, and once a month they played. Closed Sun.
have Guatemalan nights with dances or shows. La Fonda del Ché 15 Av 7–43, in front of Paco
Pérez Park. Candle-lit, intimate spot with warm
Restaurants tones and good live music most nights. Admission
Il Giardino 19 Callejón 8–07. Set in an interior Q10. Closed Sun & Mon.
covered garden, this place serves pastas (Q50) King and Queen 7 C 13–27. Popular place with
and fairly good pizzas (Q30) with proper Italian fun murals painted on the walls. Hookah pipes are
prosciutto. For free delivery call t7765 8293. available, and they serve 2-for-1 tequilas at any
Closed Tues. time (Q15). They also have veggie food such as tofu
Las Lagartijas 15 Av A 3–05. Great food, though burgers (Q20).
most ingredients are imported from Europe and the Paparazzi 14 Av A 3–32. The hippest place in
US: the menu includes veggie burgers (Q25), dates town, playing eclectic tunes (reggaeton, electronica,
(Q20) and salmon sandwiches (Q25). Live trova salsa, merengue). Admission Q30. Open Wed–Sat.
music Fri at 8pm and poker night (Texas Hold’em) Pool and Beer 12 Av 10–21. Pool tables and table
Wed at 8pm; it also hosts regular theatre perform- football are available in this spacious bar with dim
ances, art expos and poetry readings. Try the lights. A litre of beer will set you back Q25. 2-for-1
excllent sangría (Q15). Closed Mon. tequilas (Q15) at any time.
Restaurante Portofino 12 Av 10–21. At the same La Rumba 13 Av, across the road from El Cuartito.
location as Pool and Beer, this Italian restaurant has If you’re into moving your pelvis to some merengue,
a relaxed atmosphere and serves exquisite gnocchi this is the place to show off your moves. The music
– try the gnocchi with gorgonzola (Q40). isn’t too loud, so you can chat too. Open Tues–Sat.
Royal Paris 14 Av A 3–06. Authentic, Salón Tecún Inside the Pasaje Enríquez, on the
enjoyable French-owned restaurant with a west side of the plaza. This drinking den, a favourite
diverse menu of really flavoursome dishes (meat of both locals and travellers, has good tunes and a
dishes Q65), plus snacks like croque-monsieur raucous buzz most evenings. Food is also served.
(Q26). Prices are moderate, given the quality of the Zirkus Bar 15 Av 3–51. Some circus and clown
cuisine. knick-knacks embellish this cosy joint. Friendly
Sabor de la India 2 C 15 Av A 2–34 staff and very good food – try the delicious veggie
Callejón 15 (off 2 C, between 15 Av A & tortillas (Q15). Q5 from every beer purchased goes
16 Av). Excellent authentic Indian cuisine with towards a charity to stop domestic violence.
181
 Books Vrisa, 15 Av 3–64, has over 5000 used
Entertainment titles. El Libro Abierto, 15 Av A 1–56, Zona 1,
has political, social and anthropological books
Cinema Blue Angel café has a daily video
on Guatemala, as well as guidebooks and some
programme (Q10) at 8pm with a large selection of
used titles.
movies (mainly Hollywood blockbusters). Zirkus Bar
guatemala

Consulate Mexico, 21 Av, Zona 1 (Mon–Fri

shows movies daily at 4.30pm, while Royal Paris
9am–noon & 2–3pm). Most nationalities do not
restaurant shows French and Italian movies on
need a visa or tourist card for Mexico, but if you do,
Tues at 7pm. There’s a multi-screen cinema by La
hand in your paperwork in the morning and collect
Pradera mall, near the Minerva terminal.
it in the afternoon.
Cultural institutes The Teatro Municipal, 14 Av A &
Exchange Several banks on the main plaza will
1 C (T 7761 2218), hosts guitar and piano recitals,
change traveller’s cheques: Banrural (Mon–Fri
The western highlands

dances and theatre performances, concerts and

9am–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm) has a MasterCard/
exhibitions. Centro Cultural Casa Los Altos, 6 C 12–32
Cirrus ATM; Banco Industrial (Mon–Fri 9.30am–
(T7765 2226, [email protected]) hosts
6.30pm, Sat 9.30am–1.30pm) has a Visa/Plus
talks (in Spanish) on Guatemalan history, legends,
ATM.
anthropology and economics every week. Las
Internet There are at least two dozen places in
Lagartijas restaurant, 15 Av A 3–05, hosts theatre
Xela where you can surf the net (most open until
performances, art expos and poetry reading evenings.
9pm or later; around Q10/hr), including Alternativa’s
it also has a library where you can read English titles.
at 16 Av 3–35, Zona 3.
Laundry Lavandería Tikal, Diagonal 13 8–07 (daily
Directory 7.30am–1.30pm and 2–6.30pm); Q16 for a small
load, washed and dried in two hours.
Bike rental Vrisa bookstore (see below) has bikes for Medical care Hospital San Rafael, 9 C 10–41,
Q40 per day, Q100 per week and Q200 per month. Zona 1 T7761 4414/2956.

Language schools in Quetzaltenango

Quetzaltenango is another popular place to come for language school, especially
if you’re looking for a more relaxed, more authentic atmosphere than you might find
in, say, Antigua.
Casa de Español Xelajú Callejón 15, Diagonal 13–02, Zona 1 (T 7761 5954,
W www.casaxelaju.com).
Celas Maya 6 C 14–55, Zona 1 (T7761 4342, W www.celasmaya.com).
Centro Bilingüe Amerindía (CBA) 12 Av 10–27, Zona 1 (T 7761 8535, Wwww
.xelapages.com/cba).
Centro Maya Xela 21 Av 5–69, Zona 3 (T 7767 0352 W www.centromayaxela.org).
Also offers classes in Maya languages.
Educación para Todos Av El Cenizal 0–58, Zona 5 (T 5935 3815, Wwww
.spanishschools.biz).
English Club International Language School Diagonal 4 9–46, Zona 9 (T7767
3506). Also offers classes in K’iche’ and Mam.
Escuela Juan Sisay 15 Av 8–38, Zona 1 (T7765 1318 (week days) or 7761 1586
(weekends), W www.juansisay.com).
Guatemalensis 19 Av 2–14, Zona 1 (T7765 1384, Wwww.geocities.com/spanland/).
Inepas 15A Av 4–59, Zona 1 (T 7765 1308, W www.inepas.org).
La Paz Diagonal 11 7–36, Zona 1 (T 7761 2159, W www.xelapages.com/lapaz).
Kie–Balam, Diagonal 12 4–46, Zona 1 (T 7761 1636, W www.kiebalam.com).
Centro de Estudios de Español Pop Wuj 1 C 17–72, Zona 1 (T7761 8286,
E [email protected]).
Proyecto Lingüístico Quetzalteco de Español 5 C 2–40, Zona 1 (T 7765 2140,
W www.hermandad.com).
Sakribal 6 C 7–42, Zona 1 (T 7763 0717, W www.sakribal.com).

182
Post office 15 Av & 4 C (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, in the rest of the valley the cone seems
Sat 9am–1pm). to preside over everything around
Telephones You can make international calls from it. The view from the top is, as you
many internet cafés in town. Rates start at Q1 per
might expect, truly spectacular, with
min to the US, Canada and Europe.
nine other volcanoes visible on clear

guatemala
days, including the smoking summit
Moving on of Santiaguito directly below. You can
By bus There are regular chicken buses (though
climb the volcano as a day-trip, but to
no fixed schedule – they usually leave when full, really see it at its best you need to be
around every 30min) to most major destinations, on top at dawn, either sleeping on the
freezing peak, or camping at the site

The western highlands

including Antigua (4hr), Chichicastenango (3hr),
Cuatro Caminos (30min), Guatemala City (4hr below and climbing the final section
30min), Huehutenango (2hr), Momostenango (1hr in the dark by torchlight. Either way
30min), Panajachel (2hr 30min) and Retalhuleu you need to bring enough food and
(1hr). For the latest Pullman schedule to Guatemala water for the entire trip; and make sure
City check out: whttp://xelawho.com/bailing.htm. you’re acclimatized to the altitude for a
few days before attempting the climb.
Around It is highly recommended you go with
quetzaltenango a guide; they can be organized at most
Based in Quetzaltenango, you could of the tour operators in Quetzaltenango
easily spend a week or two exploring the (see p.178).
highlands. There are numerous smaller
Laguna Chicabal
towns and villages nearby, mostly indig-
Another spectacular excursion in the
enous agricultural communities and
area of Xela is to Laguna Chicabal,
weaving centres with colourful weekly
a crater lake set in the cone of the
markets, as well as some lovely hot
Chicabal volcano, about 25km south-
springs. The area also offers excellent
east of the city.
hiking. The most obvious climbs are
To visit the lake, either get a Coate-
Volcán Santa María, towering above
peque-bound bus (every 30min; 40min)
Quetzaltenango itself, and up Volcán
from the Minerva terminal to the town
Chicabal to its sublime crater lake.
of San Martín Sacatepéquez and then
Straddling the coast road to the south
trek for two and a half hours to the
is Zunil and the hot springs of Fuentes reserve entrance, or get a microbus from
Georginas, overshadowed by more Avenida 25 and 7 Calle to “La Laguna
breathtaking volcanic peaks, while to Seca” and from there walk for one hour
the north are Totonicapán, capital of to the entrance (Q15). Here you’ll find
the department of the same name, and a football field and some palapas, each
San Francisco El Alto, a small town with four bunk beds ( ), a comedor and
perched on an outcrop overlooking the a shop selling snacks, juice and water.
valley. Beyond that lies Momostenango, The last bus from San Martín back to
the country’s principal wool-producing Xela leaves at 5pm.
centre and a centre of Maya culture. Once you enter the reserve, a
For organized tours to all these places, signposted route to the left shows you to
contact the agents in Quetzaltenango a mirador, from where there are stunning
listed on p.178. views of the emerald lake, and the volca-
noes of Santa María and Santiaguito,
Volcán Santa María Tajamulco and Tacaná, or alternatively
Due south of Quetzaltenango rises via precipitous steps straight down to
Volcán Santa María (3772m). Though the shore. Small sandy bays bear charred
you can only see the peak from town, crosses and bunches of fresh-cut flowers
183
 mark the site of ritual sacrifice. On May to top it all there’s a restaurant and a
3 every year costumbristas gather here well-stocked bar (with decent wine)
for ceremonies to mark the fiesta of the beside the main pool. It’s easy to spend
Holy Cross: never disturb any rituals quite some time here soaking it all in
that are taking place. You can camp at (literally). Rustic stone bungalows are
guatemala

the shore, though you’ll have to bring available for the night (t no phone;
your own supplies.  ) complete with bathtub, two double
beds, fireplace and barbecue.
Zunil Pick-up trucks from the plaza in Zunil
Ten kilometres south of Quetzaltenango are officially set at Q10 for the trip, no
is the village of Zunil, a vegetable- matter how many passengers there
The western highlands

growing market town hemmed in by are – it’s an exhilarating journey up a

steep hills and a sleeping volcano. The smooth paved road which switchbacks
main plaza is dominated by a beautiful through magnificent volcanic scenery.
white colonial church with a richly The return trip is another Q10.
decorated facade; inside, an intricate
silver altar is protected behind bars. Totonicapán
The women of Zunil wear vivid purple A one-hour bus journey from Xela will
huipiles and carry bright shawls – the take you to the town of Totonicapán, an
plaza is awash with colour during the intensely farmed little region surrounded
Monday market. Just below the plaza is by rolling hills and pine forests. The
a textile co-operative, where hundreds valley has always held out against
of women market these weavings. Zunil outside influence, and it’s still a quiet
is also one of the few remaining places place, disturbed only by the Tuesday
where Maximón, the evil saint (see and Saturday markets, which fill the two
p.154), is still worshipped. The Maya plazas. Recently, it has become one of
here are reluctant to display their Judas, the highlands’ chief centres of commer-
who also goes by the name Alvarado, cial weaving. To take a closer look at the
but his image is usually paraded through work of local artisans, head for the town’s
the streets during Holy Week, dressed visitor centre, the Casa de la Cultura,
in Western clothes and smoking a cigar. on 8 Av 2–17 (Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm;
Virtually any child in town will take you T 7766 1575), which organizes good, but
to his current abode for a quetzal. slightly pricey tours (Q250; includes tour
Buses to Zunil run from Quetzal- of the town, visiting weaving, ceramics
tenango’s Minerva Bus Terminal every and wood-carving centres where you
half-hour or so, though some also can take classes, and a night’s accom-
go from closer to the centre of town, modation); the fees funnel back into the
stopping beside the Shell gas station at community.
10 Calle and 9 Avenida in Zona 1. The Totonicapán is best done as a day-
last bus back from Zunil leaves at around trip from Xela, from which there are
6.30pm. Shuttle-bus trips organized by good connections from the Minerva
Adrenalina Tours (see p.178) leave Xela Terminal; buses shuttle back and forth
for Zunil daily. every quarter of an hour or so, via the
Cuatro Caminos junction.
Fuentes Georginas
High in the hills, 8km from Zunil, are San Francisco El Alto
the Fuentes Georginas (Q20), a set The small town of San Francisco El Alto
of luxuriant hot springs. Surrounded overlooks the Quetzaltenango valley
by fresh green ferns, thick moss and from a lovely hillside setting just north
lush forest, the baths are sublime, and of Totonicapán. The view alone is worth
184
a visit, with the great plateau stretching Momostecos travel throughout the
out below and Volcán Santa María on country peddling their blankets, scarves
the horizon, but the main reason for a and rugs – years of experience have
trip here is the Friday market, possibly made them experts in the hard sell and
the biggest in Central America and given them a sharp eye for tourists. The

guatemala
attended by traders from every corner town is also famous for its unconven-
of Guatemala – many arrive the night tional folk-Catholicism, and it has been
before, and some start selling by candle- claimed that there are as many as three
light from as early as 4am. Throughout hundred Maya shamans working here.
the morning a steady stream of buses Visits are best done as day-trips from
and trucks fill the town to bursting; by Quetzaltenango, or you could also

The western highlands

noon the market is at its height, buzzing head on to Huehuetenango. Buses run
with activity, and things start to thin out from the Minerva terminal in Quetzal-
in the early afternoon. tenango, passing through Cuatro
The market is separated into a few Caminos and (most) via San Francisco
distinct areas. At the very top of the hill is El Alto (every 30min 6am–5pm; 1hr
an open field used as an animal market, 45min). Returning, they run from
full of everything from pigs to parrots. Momostenango between 6am and
Buyers inspect the animals’ teeth and 4pm. There are additional services on
tongues, and at times the scene degener- Sundays, for the market.
ates into a chaotic wrestling match, with
livestock and men rolling in the dirt. Huehuetenango
Below this is the town’s plaza, dominated HUEHUETENANGO, capital of the
by textiles. On the lower level, the streets department of the same name, lies at
are filled with produce, pottery, furni- the foot of the Cuchumatanes mountain
ture, cheap comedores and more. Many range. It’s not a particularly exciting
of the stalls deal in imported denim, but place, but it does have a real Guate-
under the arches and in the covered area malan feel to it. The majority of the
opposite the church is usually a nice selec- inhabitants are ladino, though there is
tion of traditional cloth. For really good also a sizeable indígena population as
views of the market and the surrounding well. The attractive square at the centre
countryside, pay the church caretaker a of the ladino half of town is surrounded
quetzal and climb up to the church roof. by shaded walkways and administrative
Buses go from Quetzaltenango to San offices, while a few blocks east around
Francisco, 16km away, leaving every 1 Avenida the indígena part of town
twenty minutes or so from the Minerva is always alive with activity, its streets
terminal; the first is at 6am, and the last packed with people and littered with
bus back leaves at about 5pm (45min). rotting produce from the nearby market.
Few travellers come out here to stay, but
Momostenango if you’re coming or going from Mexico
Twenty-two kilometres from San you’ll probably find yourself in Huehue
Francisco is Momostenango, a small, to change buses; the city also serves
isolated town and the centre of wool as a good starting point to explore the
production in the highlands. The main surrounding areas.
reason for visiting is to take a walk to the
riscos, a set of bizarre sandstone pillars, What to see and do
or beyond to the hot springs of Pala
Chiquito, about 3km away to the north. If you’re in town, Huehue’s main attrac-
The town’s Sunday market, which fills tion is the indígena market, located
the town’s two plazas, is also interesting. in the hub of the Maya part of town,
185
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The western highlands

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where the streets are daily crowded pretty large and there’s a fantastic cheap comedor.
with traders from the surrounding Excellent rates for single travellers. 
areas. This is also pretty much the Hotel Gobernador 4 Av 1–45 T7764 1197. Bare
rooms with clean bathrooms (some en suite) set
only part of town where you will be
on two inner courtyards. Excellent value given
able to see traditional dress, as most the price. Limited parking space available, so call
of the city’s inhabitants wear western ahead if you have a car. 
clothes. Hotel Imperial 4 C 6–62 T5185 0926. Spacious,
slightly dark rooms with hard beds, TVs and
Arrival and information en-suite baths. 
Hotel Lerri Colonial 2 C 5–49 T7764 1526. Dark
By bus The bus terminal is halfway between the and dingy rooms, all with cable TV. There is also a
Carretera Interamericana and town. Minibuses good-value comedor (lunches Q18). 
make constant trips between the town centre and Hotel Mary 2 C 3–52 T7764 1618. Centrally
the bus terminal at all hours of the day, though the located hotel with fairly pleasant rooms with
frequency decreases after dark. private, hot-water showers. 
Tourist information There is no Inguat tourist Hotel La Sexta 6 Av 1–49 T7764 6612. Fairly
office in town, but the Casa de la Cultura, 4 C clean rooms, though some need ventilation.
& 2 Av (T 5259 5399), has limited tourist The private bathrooms are spick and span, the
information. communal ones less so. 
Posada Familiar 4 C 6–83 T7764 1189. The
Accommodation beds here sag dramatically, but both the rooms (28
of them en suite) and the bathrooms are clean and
There is not much in terms of good budget accom- the management friendly. 
modation in Huehuetenango, but most places will Todos Santos Inn 2 C 6–74 T7764 1241. A
pass muster for a night or two. Those listed below friendly hotel, though the rooms (some with private
are all five to ten minutes’ walk from the central bath) vary in quality – those upstairs are fairly
plaza. bright and cheery, those downstairs much less so.
Hotel Central 5 Av 1–33 T7764 1202. This hotel The shared bathrooms are clean. Good rates for
is slightly worn around the edges, but rooms are single travellers. 
186
 main square (Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 8am–1pm),
Eating both have MasterCard/Cirrus/Visa/Plus ATMs and
change traveller’s cheques and US dollars.
There are a few good budget options in town – the
Internet Try Génesis, 2 C 6–37 (Q5/hr).
better restaurants are in the central area around
Language school Xinabajul, 6 Av 0–69 (T7764
the plaza. There is virtually nothing at all in terms of

guatemala
1518, [email protected]).
after-dark entertainment. Pharmacy Farmacia El Cid, 4 C & 5 Av (daily
8am–1pm & 2pm–7.30pm).
Restaurants Post office At 2 C 3–51 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm,
La Cabaña del Café 2 C 6–50. Café with an Sat 9am–1pm).
excellent range of coffees (Q6), including cappuc- Telephones The Telgua office (8am–6pm) is in the
cino, and sandwiches (there’s even roast beef), plus Centro Comercial el Triángulo, 10 Av & 6 C.

The western highlands

great cakes.
Café Bougambilias Opposite the Church. Good
place to grab some breakfast, all served with Moving on
“mosh”, which is actually a lot nicer than it sounds:
By bus There are regular buses to Guatemala City
hot milk with oats, cinnamon, wheat and sugar.
(5hr), La Mesilla (2hr), Xela (2hr) and Todos Santos
Café Jardín 3 C & 6 Av. Cheap, friendly place
Cuchumatán (hourly between 11.30am & 4.30pm;
with a good Q22 set lunch, plus snacks and
3hr) – get there early to mark your seat and buy a
breakfasts. ticket. For Antigua get a Guatemala City bus and
Cafetería Las Palmeras Opposite the change at Chimaltenango. For Sacapulas there are
Church. Very clean and pleasant restaurant two daily buses (2hr 30min) – check for the latest
serving excellent carne adobada (Q25) and a schedule. Depending on your destination, you may
number of other tasty Guatemalan dishes. Try the have to take the bus to Cuatro Caminos (any bus
delicious chuchitos (similar to tamales, wrapped going to Guatemala City or Xela will drop you off
in maize husk and filled with cornmeal, pork and here; 1hr 30min) and change.
spices; Q5).
La Fonda de Don Juan 2 C 5–35. Large restau-
Around
rant with gingham tablecloths. The menu includes
good pizzas (Q30), pastas and burgers. Huehuetenango
Mi Tierra 4 C 6–46. Great little café/restaurant, set Huehuetenango serves as a good base
in a covered patio with a welcoming atmosphere. to explore the nearby ruins of Zaculeu,
There’s plenty of choice on the menu, including papas
the setting of one of the most legendary
fritas and fajitas, plus chicken and pork dishes. Proper
confrontations in the country’s history
coffee is served and the whole establishment is non-
smoking. Also has a good noticeboard.
– the Mam fought the Spanish here in a
battle that lasted over a month.
Directory
Zaculeu
Exchange Banrural, 3 C and 6 Av (Mon–Fri 8.30am– A few kilometres west of Huehuetenango
7pm, Sat 8.30am–4pm), and G&T Continental on the are the ruins of Zaculeu (Tues–Sun

ZACULEU’s history
The site of Zaculeu, first occupied in the fifth century, is thought to have been a
religious and administrative centre for the Mam, and the home of the elite; the bulk
of the population most likely lived in small surrounding settlements or else scattered
in the hills.
In 1525 Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado dispatched an army to conquer the
area; the approaching Spanish were met by about five thousand Mam warriors, but
the Mam leader, Caibal Balam, quickly saw that his troops were no match for the
Spanish and withdrew them to the safety of Zaculeu, where they were protected on
three sides by deep ravines and on the other by a series of walls and ditches. The
Spanish army settled outside the city and besieged the citadel for six weeks until
starvation forced Caibal Balam to surrender.
187
 8am–5pm; Q50), once the capital main street, and the only place in
of the Mam, who were one of the the country where the Akateko and
principal pre-Conquest highland Chalchitek languages are spoken. It is
Maya tribes. The site includes several best done as a day-trip, preferably in
large temples, plazas and a ball-court, time to see Aguacatán’s huge Sunday
guatemala

all restored pretty unfaithfully by the market, which actually gets under way
United Fruit Company in 1946–47: on Saturday afternoon, when traders
the walls were recoated with white arrive early to claim the best sites. On
plaster, a technique seldom used for Sunday mornings, a steady stream of
restoring pre-Columbian buildings, as people pour into town, cramming into
it leaves them lacking the roof-combs, the market and plaza, and soon spilling
The western highlands

carvings and stucco mouldings that out into the surrounding area. Around
would have adorned the structures. noon the tide turns as the crowds start to
Nonetheless, Zaculeu has a unique drift back to their villages, with donkeys
atmosphere – surrounded by pines, and leading their drunken drivers.
with fantastic views of the mountains, Aguacatán’s other attraction is the
its grassy plazas make excellent picnic source of the Río San Juan, which
spots. There’s a small museum at the emerges fresh and cool from beneath a
site (same hours as the grounds) with nearby hill, making a good place for a
examples of some of the unusual burial chilly dip. To get there, walk east along
techniques used and some ceramics the main street out of the village for
found during excavation. To get to about a kilometre, until you see the sign.
Zaculeu from Huehuetenango, take From the centre it takes about twenty
one of the buses that leave every thirty minutes.
minutes from close to the school, at There are ten daily buses that run from
7 Avenida between 2 and 3 calles – make Huehuetenango to Aguacatán between
sure it’s heading for “Las Ruinas”. 6am and about 4pm (1hr). Beyond
Aguacatán the road runs out along a
Aguacatán ridge, with fantastic views stretching
It’s 22km east from Huehue to out below, eventually dropping down to
AGUACATÁN, a small agricultural the riverside town of Sacapulas an hour
town strung out along a very long and a half away (see p.174); at present

The Cuchumatanes
The largest non-volcanic peaks in Central America, the Sierra de los
Cuchumatanes rise from a limestone plateau close to the Mexican border, reaching
their full height of over 3800m above Huehuetenango. This is magnificent mountain
scenery, ranging from wild, exposed craggy outcrops to lush, tranquil river valleys.
While the upper slopes are almost barren, scattered with boulders and shrivelled
cypress trees, the lower levels are fertile, planted with corn, coffee and sugar. In
the valleys are hundreds of tiny villages, simply isolated by the landscape. These
communities are still some of the most traditional in Guatemala, and a visit, either
for a market or fiesta, offers one of the best opportunities to see Maya life.
The most accessible of the villages in the vicinity, and the only one yet to receive
a steady trickle of tourists, is Todos Santos Cuchumatán. Mountain trails from
Todos Santos lead to other villages, including the equally anachronistic pueblo of
San Juan Atitán.
Be wary of taking pictures of people in this region, particularly children. Rumours
persist locally that some foreigners steal babies, and a tragic misunderstanding led
to the death of a Japanese tourist here in 2000.
188
 All Saints’ Day in todos santos
The All Saints’ Day fiesta (Nov 1) in Todos Santos Cuchumatán is one of the most
famous in the country. The all-day horse race on All Saints’ Day attracts large
crowds, and is characterized by a massive stampede as the inebriated riders tear

guatemala
up the course, thrashing their horses with live chickens. On the “Day of the Dead”,
the action moves to the cemetery, with marimba bands and drink stalls set up
amongst the graves – a day of intense ritual that combines grief and celebration.
By the end of the fiesta, the streets are littered with bodies and the jail packed with
brawlers.

The western highlands

there’s only one bus a day heading this in simply hanging out, it would be a
way, though there are regular pick-ups. shame not to indulge in a traditional
smoke sauna while here. Most of
Todos Santos the guesthouses will prepare one for
Cuchumatán you. If you want to take a shirt, pair
of trousers or huipil home with you,
TODOS SANTOS CUCHUMATÁN is you’ll find an excellent co-op selling
many travellers’ favourite place in Guate- quality weavings next to the Casa
mala. Though the beauty of the alpine Familiar. The Museo Balam (Q5),
surroundings is one attraction, it’s the on the left after the Hispanomaya
unique culture that is most memorable: language school, is definitely worth a
the majority of Todosanteros are indig- visit, with such eclectic local objects as
enous Maya who speak Mam as their old pottery and statues, a sheep’s head,
first language, and you’ll see that most a deer’s legs, old traditional hats made
houses have a low mud-brick structure of beeswax, a drum and a hundred-
outside, called a chuj. This is similar to year-old marimba.
a sauna, with a wood fire lit under the Above the village – follow the track
rocks, and is used for family members that goes up behind the Comedor
to bathe. On the streets, Todosanteros Katy – is the small Maya site of Qman
still play a xylophone-like wooden Txun, where you’ll find a couple of
marimba. But most striking of all is the mounds sprouting pine trees. The site
local dress: the men wear straw hats, is occasionally used by costumbristas for
red-and-white striped trousers and the ritual sacrifice of animals.
pinstripe shirts decorated with pink and
blue collars, while the women wear dark
blue cortes and intricate purple huipiles.
Arrival and information
To really get immersed in Todosantero By bus After a number of hair-raising bends
culture, try and make your stay coincide through steep hills and dramatic spectacular
with the Día de Todos Santos (see box mountain scenery dotted with corn and potato
above). crops, buses will drop you off in town. Some carry
on through the village, heading further down the
valley to Jacaltenango.
What to see and do Tourist information The Hispanomaya Spanish
School (T 5163 9293, W www.hispanomaya
The village itself is pretty – a modest
.org) is a good source of tourist information. They
main street with a few shops, a plaza have a book exchange here and can also organize
and a church – but is totally overshad- guided walks. To get here walk from the main
owed by the looming presence of the square, with the church on your left, and take
Cuchumatanes mountains. Though the first left by the yellow house where there is
most of the fun of Todos Santos is also a sign for the Museo Balam. Román at Casa
189
 Familiar can also take you on hikes to San Juan
Atitlán and the surrounding areas. Moving on
By bus Buses pass through Todos Santos on the
Accommodation way to Huehuetenango from Jacaltenango; ask
around for the latest schedule.
guatemala

Plenty of families rent out rooms very cheaply – ask

at the Hispanomaya Spanish school. All hotels listed
below are clustered close together just above the
around todos santos
plaza past Comedor Katy. Note that Hospedaje Casa It would be a real shame to miss out
Familiar was being entirely rebuilt at the time of on one of the many hikes that can be
research. done around Todos Santos – make
Hotelito Todos Santos T7783 0603 or 5787
The western highlands

sure you spend some time exploring

5907. Clean, functional tiled-floor rooms (some with
the surrounding areas, home to some
bathroom), nice views from the top rooms and a
restaurant (lunch Q20). 
of the country’s most breathtaking and
Hotel Mam T 5523 4148. Clean rooms with dramatic scenery.
warmish showers. 
Hospedaje El Viajero t no phone. Fairly springy San Juan Atitán
beds and a room that sleeps five.  The village of San Juan Atitán is around
five hours on foot from Todos Santos
Eating across a beautiful isolated valley. It is
strongly recommended you go with a
You’ll find a number of comedores serving good guide: Hispanomaya Spanish School in
local food scattered around town.
Todos Santos organizes hikes, or you
Comedor Katy One block from the square. There
can look for Román at Casa Familiar.
is always something bubbling on the hearth at this
simple comedor with excellent food. Follow the path that bears up behind
Hotelito Todos Santos A cheap restaurant (lunch the Comedor Katy, past the ruins and
Q20) with good local food. high above the village through endless
muddy switchbacks until you get to the
Directory ridge overlooking the valley where, if
the skies are clear, you’ll be rewarded
Exchange On the square, Banrural (Mon–Fri by an awesome view of the Tajumulco
8.30am–5pm & Sat 7–11am) changes traveller’s and Tacaná volcanoes. Take the easy-
cheques and US dollars. Note that there are no ATM to-follow central track downhill from
machines in town so make sure you have enough
here past some ancient cloudforest
cash with you when you arrive.
Internet You can surf the net at Hispanomaya
to San Juan Atitán. There are two
Spanish School (Q5/hr). hospedajes (both  ) if you want to
Language school Hispanomaya Spanish School stay, and morning pick-ups return to
(T 5163 9293, Wwww.hispanomaya.org), by the Huehue from 6am (1hr). Market days
Museo Balam. are Mondays and Thursdays.
Post office On the plaza there’s a post office Alternatively, you can continue west
(Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 8am–noon). along the valley from Todos Santos to

into Mexico: LA Mesilla

From Huehuetenango the Carretera Interamericana runs for 79km to the Mexican
border at La Mesilla. There are buses every thirty minutes between 5am and 6pm
(2hr). The two sets of customs and migración are 3km apart, connected by shared
(colectivo) taxis. At Ciudad Cuauhtémoc on the Mexican side you can pick up
buses to Comitán (1hr 15min) and even direct to San Cristóbal de Las Casas (2hr
30min). Heading into Guatemala, the last bus leaves La Mesilla for Huehuetenango
at around 5.30pm.

190
San Martín and on to Jacaltenango, the most popular destination on the
a route which also offers superb coast, attracting swarms of people from
views. There’s a basic hospedaje ( ) Antigua and Guatemala City on the
in Jacaltenango, so you could stay the weekends.
night and then catch a bus back to You can glimpse the impressive art

guatemala
Huehuetenango in the morning. Some of the Pipil around the town of Santa
buses from Huehue also continue down Lucía Cotzumalguapa, and the Maya
this route. site of Takalik Abaj is worth a detour on
your way to or from Mexico, or as a day-
trip from Quetzaltenango. Otherwise,
the region’s pre-Columbian history isn’t

The Pacific coast

The Pacific
as visible as that in other parts of the
country.

coast
The main route along the coast is
the Carretera al Pacífico, which runs
from the Mexican border at Tecún
The Pacific coast, a strip of two hundred Umán into El Salvador at Ciudad
and fifty kilometres of black volcanic Pedro de Alvarado. It’s the country’s
beaches, is known by Guatemalans as La swiftest highway and you’ll never have
Costa Sur. Once as rich in wildlife as the to wait long for a bus. Venture off this
jungles of Petén, in recent years it’s been road, however, and things slow down
ravaged by development, and is now the considerably.
country’s most intensely farmed region,
with coffee grown on the volcanic slopes Retalhuleu
and entire villages effectively owned by RETALHULEU, usually referred to as
vast cotton- and sugarcane-growing Reu (pronounced “Ray-oo”), may be
fincas (ranches or plantations). A few one of the largest towns in the area, but
protected areas try to preserve some of that doesn’t mean it’s exciting. There is
the area’s natural heritage; the Monter­ nothing much to do in the town itself
rico Reserve is the most accessible of – the main reason to visit is to see the
these, a swampy refuge for sea turtles, ruins of Takalik Abaj, about 15km west
iguanas, crocodiles and an abundance (see p.192). However, it is something
of birdlife. It also harbours a village of a transportation hub, with virtu-
with a long stretch of relatively clean ally all buses running along the coastal
sand. Compared to some other Central highway stopping at the Retalhuleu
American beaches this one is nothing terminal on 7 Avenida and 10 Calle,
to get too excited about, but it remains a ten-minute walk from the plaza. If

into mexico: el carmen and tecún umán

There are two border crossings with Mexico in the coastal region. The northernmost
is the Talismán Bridge (open 6am–9pm), also referred to as El Carmen. On the
Mexican side, a constant stream of minibuses and buses leaves for Tapachula
(30min). Coming from Mexico, there are regular buses to Guatemala City until about
7pm; if heading towards Quetzaltenango or the western highlands, take the first
minibus to Malacatán and change there.
Further south and leading directly onto the Carretera al Pacífico, the Tecún
Umán–Ciudad Hidalgo crossing (open 24hr) is favoured by most Guatemalan and
virtually all commercial traffic. If you’re Mexico-bound, there are very frequent bus
services to Tapachula (40min) over the border. There’s also a steady flow of buses
to Guatemala City along the Carretera al Pacífico via Retalhuleu.

191
 you find yourself waiting for a bus, the with great chipmunk cheeks. In July
Museo de Arqueología y Etnología, 2002, archeologists unearthed a royal
in the plaza (Tues–Sat 8.30am–1pm & tomb, complete with jade necklace and
2–5.30pm, Sun 9am–12.30pm; Q10), is mask belt, below the observatory struc-
home to an amazing collection of anthro� ture 7A, confirming that following the
guatemala

pomorphic figurines, mostly heads, and Olmec, the site was later occupied by
some photographs of the town dating the Maya; Maya rituals occasionally still
back to the 1880s. take place today. You will be able to get
Also in the plaza are the post water at the entrance, and there is also a
office (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat little restaurant.
9am–1pm) and a number of banks, To get to Takalik Abaj, take a local
The Pacific coast

including a Banco Agromercantíl bus from Reu 15km west to the village
with a MasterCard/Cirrus ATM and of El Asintal, from where you can take a
a Banco Industrial with a Visa/Plus pick-up to the site 4km away.
ATM. Affordable accommodation is
unfortunately in short supply; your Champerico
best bet is the Hospedaje San Francisco, A fast highway runs the forty-odd
6 C 8–30 (T 7771 0649;  ), where the kilometres south from Reu to the beach
rooms are small but fairly clean and at CHAMPERICO, which, though
some have private bath. When it comes it doesn’t feel like it, is the country’s
to eating, try the Cafetería la Luna on third port, and best visited as a day-
the plaza for good breakfasts (Q18) trip. The town enjoyed a brief period
and lunches (Q24). of prosperity many decades ago when
From Reu there are buses to Guatemala it was connected to Quetzaltenango by
City, the Mexican border and Quetzal- rail, though there’s little sign of this now
tenango about every thirty minutes, apart from a rusting pier. The dark sand
plus regular buses to Champerico and
El Tulate until about 6.30pm.
treat yourself

For a few days in an unspolit

Takalik Abaj natural habitat head to Reserva
Los Tarrales (T5136 3410 or
TAKALIK ABAJ (daily 7am–5pm; 5919 8882, Wwww.tarrales
Q50) – whose name was changed from .com) in Paulul Suchitepéquez,
“Abaj Takalik” to offer a better trans- on the road between Cocales
lation of its K’iche’ name, meaning and San Lucas Tolimán. During
“standing stones” – is among the most the day you can birdwatch and
important Mesoamerican sites of the do some spectacular hikes in
country and one of the few that has both the surrounding area, including
the trek up Volcán Atitlán, as well as
Olmec and Maya features. Though the
visit the finca’s own coffee museum.
remains of two large temple platforms You are welcome to camp ( ) by
have been cleared, it’s the sculptures and the beautiful lagoon on the grounds
stelae found carved around their base, or stay in one of the pleasantly
including rare and unusual representa- decorated rooms ( ), all of which
tions of frogs and toads (monument 68) are built with natural materials.
and an alligator (monument 66), that Meals (not included in rates) are all
make a trip here worthwhile. Among home-made and served in the finca’s
beautiful dining area.
the finest carvings is stele 5, which
To get here, catch a bus from
features two standing figures separated
Retalhuleu to Cocales and from
by a hieroglyphic panel that has been there to San Lucas Tolimán – ask the
dated to 126 AD. Look out for giant driver to drop you off at the finca.
Olmec-style heads too, including one
192
beach is impressive for its scale (though Around Santa Lucía
watch out for the dangerous undertow), Cotzumalguapa
but perhaps the best reason for visiting
is the widely available and delicious Three archeological sites around Santa
fried seafood meals; for a treat, feast on Lucía are all that remains of the Pipil

guatemala
paella (Q40) at the Hotel Miramar. Don’t civilization, an indigenous non-Maya
wander too far from the busiest part of culture with close links to the Nahuatl
the beach – muggings have occurred in tribes of Central Mexico. To this day, it
isolated spots here. Buses run between is unclear as to how these people, now
Champerico and Quetzaltenango every known for their intricate stone carvings,
hour or so, and there are services every came to live in this area (possibly as early

The Pacific coast

30 minutes from Retalhuleu. The last as 400 AD), as it was largely inhabited
bus for Retalhuleu leaves Champerico by the Maya. It is possible, although not
at 7pm. advisable, to visit the sites on foot passing
through cane fields – beware that this
Santa Lucía can be dangerous, as muggers hide in the
fields when the sugar cane is high (Nov–
Cotzumalguapa April). It is much safer to hire a taxi in
SANTA LUCÍA COTZUMALGUAPA, the plaza in Santa Lucía – to visit all three
a rather nondescript coastal town, sites in one day reckon on Q100.
functions as a good base to explore
three mysterious Pipil archeological Bilbao
sites that are scattered around the Unearthed in 1860, the site of Bilbao has
surrounding cane fields. Bear in mind, four sets of stones visible in situ, two of
though, that getting to them all isn’t which perfectly illustrate the magnificent
easy unless you have your own trans- precision of the Pipil carving techniques,
port or hire a taxi. If you’re on a tight beautifully preserved in slabs of black
budget, the Hospedaje Reforma ( ), 4 volcanic rock hidden in sugar cane.
Av 4–71, by the main square, has small, To get to the site, walk uphill from the
institutional rooms and unattractive plaza, along 4 Avenida, until you reach
bathrooms – only stay if you must. The the Convento Las Hermanas where you
most decent place nearest the plaza is bear left, following a dirt track along the
Hotel Internacional (T 7882 5504;  ), side of a cane field. About 200m further
just south of the main highway, which on is a fairly wide path leading left into
has clean rooms with fans. For food, the the cane for about 20m. This brings
Comedor Miramar by the Pollo Campero you to two large stones carved with
on 3 Avenida does reasonable Chinese bird-like patterns, with strange circular
meals (Q26), and Taquería Palankiny, glyphs arranged in groups of three: the
one block north of the plaza on 4 Calle, majority of the glyphs are recognizable
has excellent tacos (Q6). Banks will as the names for days once used by the
change your traveller’s cheques: Banco people of southern Mexico. In the same
Industrial on 3 Avenida has a Visa/Plus cane field, further along the same path,
ATM. Pullman buses passing along the is another badly eroded stone, and a
highway will drop you at the entrance final set with a superbly preserved set
road to town, ten minutes’ walk from of figures and interwoven motifs. If you
the centre, while second-class buses go get lost at any stage, ask for “las piedras”,
straight into the terminal, a few blocks as they tend to be known locally.
from the plaza. Buses to the capital
leave the terminal every thirty minutes Finca El Baúl
until 4pm, or you can catch a bus from The second site, in the grounds of the
the highway. Finca El Baúl, is about 5km further
193
 afield and reached by following another branch road heads to the coast.
3 Avenida north out of town. The hilltop Nine kilometres south along this road is
site has two stones, one a massive half- LA DEMOCRACIA, worth visiting for
buried stone head with wrinkled brow its multiple collections of archeological
and patterned headdress. In front of relics taken from the site of Monte Alto
guatemala

the stones is a set of small altars on to the east of town. Some of these are
which local people make animal sacri- now displayed around the town plaza
fices, burn incense and leave offerings under a huge ceiba tree. Called “fat
of flowers, usually around midday. The boys”, these are massive stone heads
next stones of interest are at the finca with simple, almost childlike faces,
itself, in the Museo El Baúl (admission carved in Olmec style and thought to
The Pacific coast

free), a few kilometres further away from date from the mid-Preclassic period,
town, where the carvings include some possibly from as far back as 500 BC.
superb heads, stone skulls, a massive Some are attached to smaller rounded
jaguar, the emblem of Santa Lucía and bodies and rolled over on their backs
an extremely well-preserved stele of two clutching their swollen stomachs like
boxers (monument 27) dating from the stricken Teletubbies. Also on the plaza,
Late Classic period. Alongside all this the town museum (Tues–Sat 9am–4pm;
antiquity is the finca’s old steam engine, a Q30) houses carvings, a wonderful jade
miniature machine that used to haul the mask, yokes worn by ball-game players,
cane along a system of private tracks. pottery, grinding stones and a few more
To get here, catch one of the regular carved heads.
buses (every 30min) to Colonia Maya There are regular buses here from both
from either the bus terminal or the park Santa Lucía and Escuintla. Buses leave
in Santa Lucía. from the plaza every thirty minutes
heading to the capital, Escuintla and
Finca Las Ilusiones Santa Lucía.
The third site is on the other side of
town, at Finca Las Ilusiones. Here Escuintla
another collection of artefacts and some Sitting at the junction of the two
stone carvings has been assembled in the main coastal roads from the capital,
Museo Cultura Cotzumalguapa (Mon– ESCUINTLA is the largest of the Pacific
Fri 7am–4pm, Sat 7am–noon; Q10). towns. Unfortunately, it’s also the most
Two of the most striking figures within dangerous, and the only reason you
are the pot-bellied statue (monument should find yourself in town is to change
58), probably from the middle Pre- buses. It’s not recommended, but if you
classic era, and a copy of monument 21, do decide to hang around for a bit, you
which bears three figures, the central will get a sense of life on the coast – its
one depicting a ball player. There are heat, pace and energy, and the frenetic
several other original items, including a industrial and agricultural commerce
fantastic stele, plus some more replicas that drives it. If you happen to miss
and thousands of small stone carvings your bus connection, your safest bet is
and pottery fragments. To get here, probably the Hotel Costa Sur, 12 C 4–13
walk out of town east along the highway (T 5295 9528;  ).
for about 1km, and follow the signs on Buses to Guatemala City leave from 8
the left. Calle and 2 Avenida. For other destina-
tions, there are two terminals: for places
La Democracia en route to the Mexican border, buses
The next town east along the highway is run through the north of town and stop
Siquinalá, a run-down place from where by the Esso station opposite the Banco
194
 Uno (take a local bus up 3 Av); buses mangrove swamps. Mosquitoes can be
for the coast road and inland route to a problem during the wet season, but
El Salvador are best caught at the main Monterrico is still certainly the best
terminal on the south side of town, at place on the coast to spend time by the
the bottom of 4 Avenida (local bus down sea, though take care in the waves as

guatemala
4 Av). Buses leave every thirty minutes there’s a vicious undertow.
for the eastern border and hourly for
Antigua. What to see and do
Monterrico Monterrico’s long stretch of beach is
perfect to kick back with a book and

The Pacific coast

MONTERRICO, further east and
on the water, enjoys one of the finest watch one of the many beautiful sunsets
settings on the Pacific coast. The that tinge the sky pink.
scenery here is reduced to its basic
elements: a strip of dead-straight sand, Biotopo Monterrico-Hawaii
a line of powerful surf and an enormous nature reserve
curving horizon. The village is scruffy Natural beauty aside, Monterrico’s
but friendly and relaxed, separated other attraction is the Biotopo Monter­
from the mainland by the waters rico-Hawaii nature reserve, which
of the Chiquimulilla canal, which embraces the village, the beach – an
weaves through a fantastic network of important turtle nesting ground – and

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195
 a large slice of the mangrove swamps 20 percent at weekends, when it’s also best to book
behind. The reserve is actually home to ahead. All places listed below are right on or just off
four distinct types of mangrove, which the beach. Avoid the Hotel Baule Beach, as regular
thefts have been reported.
act as a kind of marine nursery, offering
Café del Sol Turn right at the beach, and walk for
small fish protection from their natural
guatemala

250m T5810 0821, Wwww.cafe-del-sol.com.

predators, while above the surface Friendly Swiss–Guatemalan-owned place with
live hundreds of species of bird and a a variety of accommodation – some rooms are
handful of mammals, including racoons beachside, others not, and there is one “mirador”
and armadillos, plus iguanas, caimans room with sea views as well as rooms for six and
and alligators. The best way to explore eight people – all with private bathroom. Tasty food
the reserve is in a small cayuco (kayak); and a small pool. 
The Pacific coast

these are best organized in a hotel. The Eco Beach Place Turn right at the beach, and
walk for 250m T5611 6637, Eecobeachplace
reserve’s visitors’ centre (daily 8am–
@hotmail.com. Next to Café del Sol, this attractive
noon & 2–5pm; Q8), just off the beach but fairly pricey guesthouse has large, comfortable
between Hotel Mangle and the Pez rooms (some sleep up to four), all with private bath.
d’Oro, has plenty of information about There’s good food, a nice lounge/bar area, a small
the environment (Spanish only) and an pool and stunning Pacific vistas from the veranda.
interesting museum featuring a number Rates include breakfast. 
of marine species. The centre also acts Hotel Atelie del Mar On the road behind
as an important sea turtle hatchery; the beach, turning right at the sea front
while caimans, iguanas and freshwater T5752 5528, Wwww.hotelateliedelmar.com.
Multilingual owners Stig and Violeta will make you
turtles are also bred here for release into
feel at home in the nicely decorated clean and
the wild. colourful rooms, each of which overlooks a good-
sized pool. Violeta's little art studio is in the attic;
Arrival and information you can buy her fun paintings on silk. 
Hotel El Delfín Fifty metres right at beach front
By bus Buses run along the 17km of paved T 5702 6701, E [email protected].
road from Taxisco, on the coastal highway, to La Good-value place with pleasant but very small
Avellana, a couple of kilometres from Monterrico on rooms. These can get stuffy in hot weather, but all
the opposite side of the mangrove swamp; boats have a fan and mosquito nets. Cheap restaurant,
(20min) shuttle passengers (Q5) and cars (Q75) too. 
back and forth from here to the village. The last bus Hotel El Mangle Turn left at beach, and walk for
leaves Taxisco at 6pm and La Avellana at 4.30pm 300m T5514 6517. Nice place with a selection
– you’ll find the latest schedules posted in the of small rooms, all with mosquito nets, fans,
Proyecto Lingüístico Monterrico (see below). bathrooms and little terraces with hammocks.
Exchange Banrural (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat There’s also a garden area, a small pool and a
9am–1pm) changes US dollars and traveller’s beachside restaurant that serves reasonable wood-
cheques. The bank itself does not have an ATM oven pizzas at unreasonable prices (Q80). 
– the only one in town (Visa/Plus only) is in the Hotel La Palma At the end of the dock–beach
Tienda Super Monterrico on the main drag. road, on the right T5817 3911 or 7848 1622,
Language school The Proyecto Lingüístico Wwww.lapalmahotelmonterrico.it. The only B&B
Monterrico (T5475 1265), on the main drag, offers in town, this place is spotless all round and has
one-on-one Spanish instruction. a chill-out attic area with hammocks. The chatty
Tourist information There is no inguat office in Italian owners can rustle up some excellent Italian
town. The Proyecto Lingüístico Monterrico is by far food and make you a proper espresso. Some rooms
the best source of information; they also provide have a/c. 
maps. Johnny’s Place Turn left at beach, and walk for
150m T 5812 0409. Popular destination with
Accommodation single-sex dorms plus good-sized bungalows
sleeping four. There are plenty of small bathing
There is not too much in terms of real budget pools, a café/restaurant with ocean views
accommodation – there is only one hostel with and fairly priced tacos and pasta. Dorms  ,
dorm rooms. Many places increase prices by about bungalows 
196
 into el salvador: Ciudad pedro de alvarado
Very regular buses run from Taxisco along the coastal highway to the border with
El Salvador at Ciudad Pedro de Alvarado, just over an hour away, until 5pm. The
border is a fairly quiet one, as most traffic uses the Valle Nuevo post to the north,

guatemala
but there are a few basic hospedajes and comedores on both sides of the border if
you get stuck.

western counterpart – the peaks are

Eating and drinking
lower and the volcanoes lie higgledy-

The eastern highlands

There are quite a few places to eat out in town, piggledy – and the towns, whose
the cheapest being the comedores on the main residents are almost entirely Latinized,
drag. are nearly universely pretty dry and
featureless. You’re unlikely to want to
Restaurants and bars hang around for long. Esquipulas is
Al Vivo Tizón In the same premises as the Eco
worth a visit, though, for its colossal
Beach Place Hotel. Steak and seafood restaurant
right on the beach serving beef tenderloin (Q80),
church, home to the Cristo Negro
grilled fish (Q75) and burgers (Q35). Milagroso (Miraculous Black Christ)
El Animal Desconocido By far the most lively and the most important pilgrimage site
bar (especially on weekends), this place blares an in Central America. It’s also positioned
eclectic selection of rock and dance music and very close to the border with Honduras
serves mean cocktails. and El Salvador. However, if you’re
Restaurante El Marino Opposite Hotel La Palma. heading into Honduras, you’re most
Cheap, colourful and clean restaurant on the main likely to end up spending the night in
street. The good menu includes fried fish (Q50),
Chiquimula, the gateway to the ruins
seafood soup (Q60) and breakfasts (Q20).
Taberna El Pelícano Turn left at beach, and walk
of Copán, just over the border. Finally
for 150m to behind Johnny’s Place. Some of the there’s the idyllic crater lake on top of
best food in town, including pasta dishes (Q30) and the Volcán de Ipala – its isolation adds
ragout de pescado (Q65), is served at this Swiss- to its appeal.
owned restaurant.
Chiquimula
Moving on The town of CHIQUIMULA, sitting to
one side of the San José river valley, is
By bus Several direct buses run between Taxisco
and the Zona 4 bus terminal in Guatemala City (3hr).
an unattractive, bustling ladino strong-
If you’re travelling between Antigua and Monterrico hold. Most travellers who come here
there are several daily shuttle-bus services (US$10– are on their way to or from the Maya
15 each way) to La Avellena; tickets are bookable at ruins of Copán, just over the border in
any travel agency and most hotels. Honduras (see p.361) – if you’ve just
arrived, things only get better from
here. Although the city centre itself
is nothing to boast about, the little

The eastern Parque Calvario square, a couple

of blocks south of the main plaza,

highlands is a pleasant spot with a number of

lovely cafés and restaurants; the square
gives a good feel of what local life is
The eastern highlands, south- like, especially in the evenings when
east of the capital, are probably the the young come here to eat and drink
least-visited part of Guatemala. The and couples stroll around hand-
landscape lacks the appeal of its in-hand.
197
 Arrival and information
Volcán de Ipala
Reached down a side road off the main
By bus The bus terminal is on 1 C between 10 & highway between Chiquimula and
11 Av, Zona 1. Esquipulas, the VOLCÁN DE IPALA
Exchange There is a branch of the Banco G&T
(1650m) may at first seem a little disap-
guatemala

Continental at 7 Av 4–75 (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat

10am–1pm) that changes US dollars. pointing – it looks more like a hill than
Internet Try Email Center at 6 Av 4–51 (daily a grand volcano. However, the cone
9am–9pm). is filled by a beautiful little crater lake
Telephones The Telgua office (daily 8am–6pm) is ringed by dense tropical forest – you can
on the corner of the plaza. walk round the entire lake in a couple of
The eastern highlands

hours. The easiest route to the top is via

Accommodation a trail from the village of El Chagüitón;
it’s a 2km climb to the visitors’ centre
Hotel Hernández 3 C 7–41 T7942 0708. An
excellent selection with clean, simple rooms, all with
where you pay a Q15 entrance fee.
fan and some with a/c and private bathrooms.  It’s well worth heading here if you’re
Hotel Central 3 C 8–30 T7942 0118. Five looking for some peace; chances are
pleasant rooms all with private bath and cable TV.  that if you visit on a weekday it should
be pretty quiet.
Eating and drinking The village of Ipala is connected by
bus with Jutiapa to the south, Jalapa
When it comes to eating, the nicest places are in the west and Chiquimula to the
on Parque Calvario, a trendy hangout among the
north. It’s a pretty forlorn place with
young. All places listed below are around the
square. There are inexpensive comedores in and
a few shops and few places to stay,
around the market, centred on 3 C and 8 Av. the best of which is the Hospedaje
Jalisco on Parque Calvario square. Pleasant Pinal ( ), which has good clean rooms
little café with a couple of tables set outside; with private bathroom. Buses and
try the exquisite burritos (Q20 as you sip on a great pick-ups run from Ipala towards the
licuado. village of Agua Blanca hourly; get off
Io Kaffé Crêpes (Q15) and paninis (Q25) are served
at El Sauce at km 26.5, from where it’s
in this little café with stylish leather sofas.
Peccato Café One of the most popular places in
an hour and a half to the summit via
town to have a cocktail, with a selection of pastas El Chagüitón.
(Q30) and a good plato típico (Q45). Closed Sun
& Mon. Esquipulas
ESQUIPULAS is home to the most
Moving on important Catholic shrine in Central
America. For the past four hundred
By bus to: Guatemala City (every 30min 4am–5pm;
3hr 15min), Esquipulas (every 15min 5am–7pm; years pilgrims from all over Central
1hr), Jalapa, via Ipala (7 daily 6am–4pm; America have flocked here to pay
2hr 30min) and Puerto Barrios (hourly; 3hr). their respects to the Cristo Negro
Milagroso (Miraculous Black Christ),
whose image is found in the town’s
into honduras: El
magnificent Basilica. The principal
florido
day of pilgrimage is January 15; if
Buses leave Chiquimula’s bus station you’re in town at this time make sure
frequently for the El Florido, and you book accommodation in advance.
the Honduran border (every 30min
The rest of the town is a messy sprawl
4.30am–5.30pm; 1hr 20min). Regular
buses (every 30min 6.30am–6pm) of cheap hotels, souvenir stalls and
then leave the border for Copán. restaurants which have sprung up to
serve the pilgrims.
198
 the black christ of esquipulas
In 1595, following the indigenous population’s conversion to Christianity, the
town of Esquipulas commissioned famed colonial sculptor Quirio Cataño to
carve an image of Christ. Sculpted in a dark wood, the image acquired the name

guatemala
Cristo Negro (Black Christ). Rumours of its miraculous capacities soon spread
– according to the religious authorities, the first miracle took place in 1603, but it
wasn’t until 1737, when the archbishop Pardo de Figueroa was cured of an illness,
that its healing properties were recognized. It has ever since been the object of the
most important religious pilgrimage in Central America.

The eastern highlands

moved on by the crowds behind. As they
What to see and do leave, they do so walking backwards so
The Black Christ is the focus of the town, as to show their respects to Christ by not
and is approached through the church’s turning their back on Him.
side entrance, past a little area full of
candles which are lit upon exiting the Arrival and information
building. The devout reverently stand in
By bus Buses from Guatemala City will drop you off
line, slowly making their way towards at the Rutas Orientales bus station on 11 C & 1 Av,
the image. The walls are plastered with just outside the town centre.
anything and everything – golden plaques Exchange Banco Industrial has a branch with Visa
with engraved messages to Christ, ATM at 9 C & 3 Av, and there’s also a Banco G&T
passport-sized photos that the pious slip Continental with a MasterCard ATM almost opposite.
into large picture frames, interweaved
gold and silver necklaces that viewed Accommodation
from a distance form the image of Christ.
Pilgrims mutter prayers as they approach Most budget options are clustered together in the
streets off the main road, 11 Calle. Avoid staying on
the image: some kneel, while others
Saturday nights, when rooms cost double.
briefly pause in front of it, before getting

INTO EL SALVADOR: Anguiatú, San cristóbal

frontera and valle nuevo
There are three border crossings with El Salvador in the region of Esquipulas.
Anguiatú
Buses go to the Anguiatú crossing from Chiquimula (every 30min 6am–6pm; 2hr)
and Esquipulas (with Transportes Carlita, from 6 Av & 11 C, Zona 1; every 45min
6am–6pm; 1hr 30min). Note that if taking the bus from Esquipulas between 6am
and 8am you will have to catch it one block up on Boulevard Quirio Cataño. From
the Anguiatú border, buses go to Metapán (every 30min 6am–6pm; 20min), where
you can get a connection to San Salvador and Santa Ana (buses leave for Santa
Ana approximately every 45min, but only when full).
San Cristóbal Frontera
Buses connect El Progreso and Jutiapa with the San Cristóbal border crossing
(1hr 30min), from where you can get a bus to Santa Ana (3hr). Regular buses travel
between Guatemala City and El Progreso.
Valle Nuevo
Regular buses leave the bus station in Guatemala City, Zona 4, for Valle Nuevo, the
name of the border crossing for Las Chinamas in El Salvador (every hour or so;
2hr 30min).

199
 Hotel Villa Edelmira 3 Av 8–58 T7943 1431. vegetation. Although Puerto Barrios
Pleasant, family-run hotel with excellent rates for is nothing more than a port town, the
single travellers.  relaxed town of Lívingston, home to
Hospedaje San Antonio 2 Av 8–70 T5345 1191.
the black Garífuna people, is a unique
The bathrooms aren’t as tidy as you might like and
blend of Black Caribbean and Guate-
guatemala

the rooms are so bare they would give Sparta a

bad name, but it is one of the cheapest options in malan cultures – you’d hardly think you
town.  were in Guatemala at all.
La Favorita 2 Av 10–15 T7943 1175. Small but
clean rooms, some en suite, 2min walk from the Quiriguá
church. 
Sitting in an isolated pocket of rainforest,
East to the Caribbean

surrounded by a forest of banana trees,

Eating and drinking the ruins of QUIRIGUÁ are home
Many of the cheaper restaurants and comedores to some of the finest Maya carvings
are on 11 Calle and the surrounding streets. anywhere. Only Copán, across the
Pollo Campero On 11 C. For some cheap eats, border in Honduras (see p.361), offers
head to this branch of Guatemala’s most popular any competition to the site’s magnificent
fast-food chain. stelae, altars and so-called “zoomorphs”,
Restaurante La Frontera Opposite the park.
covered in well-preserved and superbly
Clean, fairly large place with a good range of fish
intricate glyphs and portraits.
and meat dishes.

Moving on What to see and do

By bus There are regular minibuses to the borders Entering the site (daily 8am–4.30pm;
with El Salvador (every 30min 6am–4pm; 1hr) and Q80), you emerge at the northern end
Honduras at Agua Caliente (every 30min 6am– of the Great Plaza. By the ticket office
5.30pm; 30min). Rutas Orientales (11 C & 1 Av) is the Museum of Quiriguá (daily
runs a half-hourly bus service between Esquipulas 7am–4pm; free), which explains the
and Guatemala City (4hr). If you want to get to town’s history (see box opposite) and
the ruins of Copán, you’ll need to catch a bus to
discovery. The site is notorious for the
Chiquimula (every 15min or so; 45min) from the
east side of 11 C, and change there for the
stelae scattered across the Large Plaza,
El Florído border post (see p.198). seven (A, C, D, E, F, H and J) of which
were built during the reign of Cauac
Sky and depict his image. The nine
stelae are the tallest in the Mayan world

East to the
- the largest of all is Stele E, elevated
8m above ground and weighing 65

Caribbean
tons. Note the vast headdresses, which
dwarf the faces, as well as the beards,
an uncommon feature in Maya life.
Coming from Guatemala City, the As you make your way towards the
Caribbean Highway passes through acrópolis, you will be able to make
the upper Río Motagua valley before out the remains of a ball-court on
reaching the Río Hondo junction. Here your right, before reaching six blocks
the road divides, with one arm going of stone carved with images repre-
south to Esquipulas and on to the border senting animal and human figures: the
with Honduras and El Salvador and zoomorphs. Have a look at the turtle,
the main stretch heading towards the frog and jaguar.
Caribbean. As you approach the coast, The ruins are some 70km beyond the
the landscape dramatically changes junction at Río Hondo, and 4km down
from dry, infertile terrain to lush, green a turn-off from the main road. All buses
200
 The history of Quiriguá
Quiriguá’s early history is still relatively unknown, but during the Late Pre-classic
period (250 BC–300 AD) migrants from the north established themselves as
rulers here. In the Early Classic period (250–600 AD), the area was dominated by

guatemala
Copán, just 50km away, and doubtless valued for its position on the banks of the
Río Motagua, an important trade route, and as a source of jade. It was during the
rule of the great leader Cauac Sky that Quiriguá challenged Copán, capturing its
leader 18-Rabbit in 737 AD, and was able to assert its independence and embark
on a building boom: most of the great stelae date from this period. For a century
Quiriguá dominated the lower Motagua valley. Under Jade Sky, who took the

East to the Caribbean

throne in 790, Quiriguá reached its peak, with fifty years of extensive building work,
including a radical reconstruction of the acropolis. Towards the end of Jade Sky’s
rule, in the middle of the ninth century, the historical record fades out, as does the
period of prosperity and power.

coming from Guatemala City on their

way to Flores or Puerto Barrios, and
Arrival and information
going to Flores from Esquipulas and By boat Boats from Lívingston and Punta Gorda
Chiquimula pass by. There’s a fairly (Belize) arrive at the dock at the end of 12 C.
regular bus service from the highway By bus There’s no purpose-built bus station in
to the site itself, plus assorted motor- Puerto Barrios. Litegua buses, which serve all desti-
bikes and pick-ups. You shouldn’t have nations along the Caribbean Highway to Guatemala
City, have their own terminal in the centre of town
to wait too long to get a ride back to
on 6 Av, between 9 & 10 C. All second-class buses,
the highway, or you can walk there in as well as services from Chiquimula and Esqui-
around forty-five minutes. pulas, arrive and depart from an unmarked stop
directly opposite, beside the railway tracks.
Puerto Barrios Tourist information There’s no Inguat office in
Named after President Rufino Barrios in town. You can get bus schedules at the Litegua
terminal.
the 1880s, PUERTO BARRIOS soon fell
into the hands of the American-owned
United Fruit Company – the harbour Accommodation
was partly built by Theodore Roosevelt’s There is not much at all in terms of budget hotels
Corps of Engineers in 1906–08 – and in Puerto Barrios – for real cheap accommodation,
was used to ship its merchandise to your safest bet is Hotel El Dorado.
New York and New Orleans. The Guate- Hotel La Caribeña 4 Av between 10 & 11 calles
malan government, dissatisfied that the T7948 0384. Large place with a variety of different-
port had been built to satisfy foreign sized rooms (some with a/c), including doubles, triples
and quads. The management is friendly and there’s a
interests, built a state-owned port,
good-quality seafood restaurant attached. 
Santo Tomás de Castilla, six kilometres Hotel El Dorado 7 Av & 13 C T7948 1581.
further south, and Puerto Barrios went Family-run place with basic but spacious good-
into decline, from which it has never value rooms, some with private bath. Owner Pedro
really recovered. Like most other port says you can wash “libremente” in the courtyard,
towns, the woebegone city has a seedy should you wish to get some fresh air. Ring the bell
feel, with its potholed streets, numerous on 7 Av if you arrive late at night. 
strip clubs and iffy characters wondering Hotel Europa 2 3 Av & 12 C T 7948 1292. Clean,
safe and friendly place close to the dock. All the
the streets. It’s not somewhere you
good-value rooms have fan and private shower,
would want to hang around for too long and there are good rates for single travellers.
– probably just enough time to hop on a Sister hotel Hotel Europa 1 is at 8 Av & 8 C
boat to your next destination. (T 7948 0127). 
201
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Hotel Xelajú T 7948 0482. Right in the centre of Restaurants

town facing the market, this is another cheapie with El Cangrejo Azul On the sea front. The menu here
simple rooms and private bath.  includes a tapado especial (seafood soup; Q45) and
a number of other fish-based dishes.
Eating La Caribeña 4 Av between 10 & 11 calles.
Excellent local food, including meats and a delicious
There’s an abundance of comedores around the sopa de mariscos (Q90).
market. Most of the restaurants listed here serve Rincón Uruguayo 10min walk south of the centre,
fish and seafood but also have cheaper options at 7 Av & 16 C. A favourite for meat-eaters, this
such as burgers. place excels at parrilladas (Q100 for two people).
202 Closed Sun.
Safari 10min north of the centre on the seafront, at are also half-hourly buses for Chiquimula (4hr
the end of 5 Av. Very popular restaurant with a big 30min), via Quiriguá, that leave from 6 Av & 9 C.
palm roof, serving huge portions of seafood platters For Río Dulce you will have to catch a bus heading
(Q100), burgers (Q12) and ceviches (Q75). to Chiquimula and change at La Ruidosa junction.
There are also regular buses to the Honduran border

guatemala
that depart from 6 Av by the market (see box below).
Drinking and nightlife
Puerto Barrios has a few bars and nightclubs, Lívingston
offering the full range of late-night sleaze – a lot of Lying at the mouth of the Río Dulce and
the action is centred around 6 and 7 avenidas and
only accessible by boat, LÍVINGSTON
6 and 7 calles, by the Parque Tecún Umán.
Canoa Club 5 Av & 2 C. Reggae and punta rock
is unlike anywhere else in Guatemala

East to the Caribbean

are the main musical flavours here, especially on – it’s largely inhabited by the displaced
weekends. Garífuna, or black Carib people, whose
La Pulpa 7 Av & 13 C. This bar and grill gets quite communities are strung out along the
lively on some nights, and is a good place to have Caribbean coast between southern Belize
a drink. and northern Nicaragua (for a brief history
of the Garífuna, see p.103). The town itself
Directory has a very laid-back feel – you’re bound to
see some Rastafarians soaking in the sun
Exchange At Banrural, 8 Av & 9 C (with MasterCard and chilling out in the company of some
ATM), and 7 Av & 12 C; Banco Industrial, 7 Av & 7 ganja. This unique fusion of Guatemalan
C (with Visa ATM); and Banco G&T Continental, 7 C
and Caribbean cultures is manifest in all
between 6 & 7 Av.
aspects of life, from the delicious tapado
Immigration For Belize, clear migración before
buying a ticket; the office is a block west of the
(spicy seafood soup) to the musical lilt of
dock on 12 C (7am–8pm). Garífuna patois.
Internet Available at Café Internet, 6 Av between
11 & 12 C (daily 7am–11pm), and Cafenet, 13 C & What to see and do
6 Av (Mon–Sat 9am–9pm). Both charge Q5/hr.
Post office 6 C & 6 Av. Lívingston is a small place with not
Taxis There are many taxis around town; available much to do other than kick back and
drivers honk for customers as they drive through relax. There is one interesting museum
the streets. in town, the Museo Garífuna (take the
Telephones The Telgua office (daily 7am–6pm) is first left from the dock; Q5) where you
at the junction of 8 Av & 10 C. can learn more about the history and
culture of the black Caribs.
Moving on If you want to catch some rays, you
can use the pool at Villa Caribe, in town
By boat Lanchas regularly go to Lívingston (Q35)
but leave only when full, and to Punta Gorda in
on the main drag on the right (Q50
Belize (daily 10am, 1pm and 2pm; Q150). per person). The local beaches, though
By bus Transportes Litegua (6 Av & 9 C) has regular safe for swimming, are not the stuff of
morning buses and one afternoon bus at 4pm to Caribbean dreams, with dark sand and
Guatemala City (5hr 30min), via Quiriguá. There greyish water. The sole exception is

into honduras: entre ríos

Minibuses (every 30min; 6.30am–4.30pm; 1hr) for the border crossing to Honduras
at Entre Ríos depart from the Puerto Barrios marketplace. Once there, you may be
asked for an unofficial “exit tax” (US$1–2) on the Guatemalan side and an entry fee
for a similar sum from the Hondurans. Pick-ups leave the border to the village of
Corinto, 4km away, from where buses depart for Puerto Cortés (every 90min; 3hr)
via Omoa.

203
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wonderful, white-sand Playa Blanca, Travel agents Exotic Travel (T7947 0049,
though this is privately owned and can W www.bluecaribbeanbay.com), in the same
only be visited on a tour (see below). building as the Bahía Azul restaurant, and Happy
Fish (T7947 0661, Wwww.happyfishtravel.com),
Don’t walk alone on the beaches, as rapes
just down the road, are the best travel agents in
and robberies have been reported. town. They can arrange trips (minimum six people)
The most popular trip around town is around the area, including visits to lovely Playa
to Las Siete Altares, a group of water- Blanca and the Sapodilla Cayes off Belize for
falls about 5km to the northwest, a good snorkelling (US$45). Several companies, including
spot to take a few dips and have a picnic. Exotic Travel, run morning boat trips up the Río
There have been sporadic attacks on Dulce (Q95 per person).
tourists walking out to the falls, but the
police now supervise the area and it is Accommodation
now a relatively safe route, provided you
walk in a group. The best option is to hire There is plenty of nice budget accommodation in
town. Make sure you book ahead at the holidays;
a local guide or visit as part of a tour (see
at other times you should easily be able to find
below). a bed.
Casa de la Iguana Turn left at the dock and
Arrival and information walk for 5min T7947 0064. A great place
to meet other travellers, this fun hostel with dorms
By boat The only way to get to Lívingston is by and rooms has a lively atmosphere, complete with
boat, either from Puerto Barrios, the Río Dulce or family-style dinners every evening. The friendly
Belize; they arrive at the main dock on the south English owner will keep you entertained. Doubles and
side of town.
204
triples are agreeable and cosy, and the bathroom tiles (Q65). 20min of free internet use available when
decorated with Rusty’s handpainted motifs. You can you order food.
also camp or sleep in hammocks for Q15. Satellite TV Bahía Azul On the main street. A nonprofit
and 400 DVDs for rainy days. Dorms , doubles  restaurant whose proceeds go towards helping
Hotel California Turn left just before the Bahía Azul the local indigenous who have been displaced,

guatemala
restaurant T7947 0176. This clean hotel offers this popular place has an inexpensive menu
reasonable, if sparse, rooms, most with private (coco burguesa Q20) and an excellent terrace for
bath. Triples also available.  watching Lívingston streetlife.
Hotel Casa Rosada About 400m left of the Bugamama Just left of the jetty. Very good shrimp
dock T7947 0303, Wwww.hotelcasarosada (Q75), pastas (Q35) and fish. Closed Mon.
.com. A delightful hotel with a harbourfront location Happy Fish On the main street. Top-notch
and lush, spacious grounds. The small, cheery food in a fun, friendly atmosphere and

East to the Caribbean

wooden cabins are a little overpriced but still a very pleasant setting. There are a number of
charming. Excellent, healthful meals available as “Specialities Happy Fish” (try the grilled seafood)
well.  and meat dishes (Q45) available for non-fish
Hotel Garífuna Turn left off the main street lovers.
towards the Ubafu bar and walk 250m T 7947 Margoth Turn left after Tiburón Gato. Another good
0183, [email protected]. Fairly clean, place to try out some garífuna food – good fried fish
secure guesthouse with basic rooms, all with fan dishes (Q95) and ceviche.
and private bath.  Tiburón Gato 2min from the jetty, on the main
Hotel Maya Quiriguá About 400m left of the dock drag. Other than local specialities, this place also
T 7947 0674. All in all, a good-value establish- serves pasta (Q22), ceviche (Q38) and fried fish
ment. The downstairs rooms are cheaper (Q25/30 (Q45), all at very reasonable prices.
without/with private bath), but have spongy beds; Tilingo Lingo At the end of the main drag heading
those upstairs are more expensive, with springy north towards the beach. Serving an eclectic range
beds. Downstairs  , upstairs  of international dishes, including Indian food and
Hotel Río Dulce About 3min walk up from the jetty pizzas, as well as a good tapado.
T 5143 0410. Recently refurbished, this hotel has
very pleasant, spotless rooms with wooden floor- Drinking and nightlife
boards. All rooms are en suite. 
Hotel El Viajero Turn left after the dock, and walk Lívingston has some groovy bars, most with African
for 200m T5685 1635. Friendly, family-run place drum music and reggae beats playing in the
with excellent-value rooms, all with fan and private background.
bath. Just know there’s a brothel on one side and Trópico La Playa Here you’ll hear an eclectic
a fish market on the other, which may mean late range of music – show off your moves on the
nights and early mornings.  dancefloor or chill in one of the hammocks and
Hotelito Perdido In the rainforest by the Río chairs on the beach. Closed Mon & Tues.
Lampara, 20min from town by boat T 5725 Ubafu Usually the liveliest place with some great
1576 or 5785 5022, Wwww.hotelitoperdido.com. African drum music, although it is very much hit-or-
Relaxed and homely, this English–Polish-owned miss depending on the night.
place has rustic bungalows in a jungle setting 12km
from Lívingston, as well as a cosy little dorm room
Directory
( ) with only two beds. A perfect spot to kick back
in a hammock or go kayaking. Call Chris or Aka and Exchange Banco Reformador (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm,
they will come and pick you up by boat.  Sat 9am–1pm) has a Visa/Plus ATM; Banrural
(Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm) has a
Eating Visa/Plus and MasterCard/Cirrus ATM. Both are on
the main drag.
There are a number of excellent places to eat in Internet Gaby’s Internet, left at the dock, has the
Lívingston – make sure you try the tapado (seafood cheapest rates in town (Q6/hr). Alternatively, try
soup), the local speciality. Happy Fish, on the main drag (Q10/hr).
Immigration About 200m up the main drag (daily
Restaurants 8am–6pm). Get your visas for Belize here.
Antojitos Gaby Turn left at the dock, and walk Post office Walk up the main street and take the
for 250m. This family-run place offers one of the first right (Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–
cheapest, biggest and tastiest tapados in town 5.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm).
205
 Taxis Can be grabbed from the dock. Rates are you ask them. There’s a good guesthouse
Q10 to anywhere in town. up here, the Finca Tatín (T 5902 0831,
Telephones The Telgua office (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, W www.fincatatin.centramerica.com),
Sat 9am–1pm) is on the right, up the main street
which has rustic dorms ( ), rooms
from the docks, next door to the post office. You
with private bath ( ) and bungalows
guatemala

cannot make international calls, but you can buy

phonecards.
( ) set in dense jungle; it’s reachable
only by boat. Run by hospitable Argen-
tines, there’s also excellent healthful
Moving on food, kayaks for hire, walking trails and
By boat to: Puerto Barrios (daily 5am & 2pm; Spanish classes available.
Continuing up the Río Dulce for
Lago de Izabal and the Río Dulce

1hr 30min) and Punta Gorda, Belize (Tues & Fri 7am;
1hr). The Puerto Barrios ferries are supplemented by another kilometre or so, you’ll pass a
lanchas (Mon–Sat 6.30am, 7.30am, 9am, 11am and spot where warm sulphurous waters
when full thereafter, Sun only when full). emerge from the base of the cliff – this
is a great place for a swim. Past here,
the river opens up into the Golfete
lake, the north shore of which has been

Lago de Izabal designated the Biotopo de Chocón

Machacas (daily 8am–5pm; Q30),

and the Río designed to protect the manatees that

live here. The reserve also protects the

Dulce forest that still rings much of the lake;

there are some specially cut trails where
you might catch sight of a bird or two,
The largest lake in the country, Lago de or, if you’ve time and patience to spare, a
Izabal remains largely unexplored and tapir or jaguar. The river closes in again
is well worth a visit if you’re looking after the lake, passing the marina and
for some tranquillity. El Estor serves bridge at the squalid town of Río Dulce
as a good base to explore the beautiful (also known as Fronteras), where the
nature reserve to the west of the lake, boat trip comes to an end.
which is home to numerous species of
wildlife and secluded spots waiting to be río dulce town
discovered. The lake itself empties into Still commonly referred to as Fronteras,
the Río Dulce, which you can venture the town of RÍO DULCE is not
up (or down) to (and from) Líving- somewhere you would want to stay for
ston, a breathtaking trip that takes two long. Once the stopover for ferries on
to three hours. The area is also home their way to El Petén, it now attracts
to one of the country’s most curious tourist traffic from yachters and
natural phenomena, the Finca el Paraíso travellers heading to or coming from
hot spring waterfall. Lívingston. The town is connected to
the land on both sides of the river by a
Along the río dulce gargantuan concrete bridge, and buses
From Lívingston the river leads into travel in both directions.
a system of gorges cut into sheer rock
faces. Tropical vegetation and vines Arrival and information
cling to the walls, and here and there
By boat A side road leads down to the dock from
you might see some varied birdlife. the north side of the bridge.
Six kilometres from Lívingston there’s By bus If arriving by bus, ask to be dropped off on
a nice river tributary, the Río Tatín, the north side of the bridge (unless you’re planning
which most boatmen will venture up if on staying at Hotel Backpackers on the south side),
206
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Lago de Izabal and the Río Dulce guatemala

207
 which is where you will also find the Litegua and place to relax and meet other backpackers. Good
Fuente del Norte bus offices. sandwiches and juices.
Exchange Banrural has a MasterCard ATM and
Banco Industrial a Visa ATM.
Moving on
Internet You can surf the net at the Río Bravo
guatemala

restaurant north of the bridge. By boat If you’re heading for Lívingston via the Río
Tourist information There’s a useful website Dulce gorge, the lancha boat captains will ambush
(W www.mayaparadise.com) with good links and you as soon as you step off a bus; boats (Q100 per
listings covering the Río Dulce region. person) leave when they have enough passengers
until about 5pm.
Accommodation By bus There are buses every 30min or so to
Guatemala City and to Flores via Poptún until
Lago de Izabal and the Río Dulce

Casa Perico T 7793 5666 or 5909 0721, W www around 6pm. If you’re heading towards Puerto
.casa-perico.de.vu. Swiss-owned place located in Barrios, take the first bus or minibus to La Ruidosa
a little cove 1km northeast of the bridge, with dorm junction (every 30min) and pick up a connection
beds ( ), basic rooms ( ) and a private bungalow there. Heading to El Estor, there are buses around
( ) along with a lively atmosphere and great food. the lakeshore every 90min minutes (1hr 45min)
Call them for a free lancha pick-up. between 6am and 4pm.
Hacienda Tijax T7930 5505, Wwww.tijax.com.
2min by water-taxi from the north side of the
bridge, this place is a working teak and rubber farm
castillo de san
with a pleasant lakeside plot and tasty, if slightly felipe
pricey, food. There’s a great canopy jungle walk, Looking like a miniature medieval castle,
hiking trails and horseriding, plus a swimming pool.
the CASTILLO DE SAN FELIPE (daily
Accommodation is not cheap, either in basic rooms
( ), cabins () or bungalows ( ).
8am–5pm; Q20), 1km upstream from
Hotel Backpackers T7930 5480/5168, Wwww the Río Dulce bridge, marks the entrance
.hotelbackpackers.com) Right underneath the to Lago de Izabal, and is a tribute to the
south side of the bridge, this place has both dorm audacity of English pirates, who used
beds and doubles. If staying in a dorm you have to to sail up the Río Dulce to raid supplies
pay Q4 for sheets and leave a deposit for towels. and harass mule trains. The Spanish
Owned by the nearby Casa Guatemala children’s were so infuriated by this that they built
home, many of the young staff are former residents;
the fortress to seal off the entrance to
it’s also a good place to pick up information about
the Río Dulce region. Dorms  , doubles 
the lake, and a chain was strung across
Hotel Río Dulce T7930 5179/5180. Located on the river. Inside there’s a maze of tiny
the north side of the bridge with clean, neat doubles rooms and staircases, plenty of cannons
with fans.  and panoramic views of the lake.

Eating lago de izabal

Guatemala’s largest lake, the LAGO DE
For cheap grub, there’s a strip of pretty undistin-
guished comedores on the main road close to the
IZABAL, is most definitely worth a visit
bus stop. – not only does it boast great views of
Bruno’s South of the Río Bravo, Bruno’s serves up the highlands beyond its shores, but
international food (breakfasts from Q24) and offers the west of the lake on the Bocas del
North American news and sports coverage – it’s Polichic is also home to incredible
very popular with the sailing fraternity – they have wildlife and plenty of untouched spots
internet facilities here too. waiting to be explored. Some hotels in
Río Bravo On the north side of the bridge. Good
Río Dulce town, including Hacienda
place to meet other travellers, eat pizza or pasta
and drink the night away – you can also surf the
Tijax and Hotel Backpackers, organize
internet and make radio contact with most places tours around the lake or you can explore
around the river and lake from here. the north shore by bus along the road
Sun Dog Café Dutch-owned café on the other to El Estor. The hot spring waterfall
side of the street from Río Bravo, this is a great (daily 7am–5pm; Q10) near the Finca
208
El Paraíso (see below), 25km from Río since been a cause of concern. Today,
Dulce and 300m north of the road, is the town’s ideal setting makes it a perfect
a truly remarkable phenomenon, with place to explore the countryside nearby,
boiling water cascading into cooled which remains largely untouched.
pools, creating a steam-room environ- Locals are deservedly optimistic that

guatemala
ment in the midst of the jungle. There the town can capitalize on the vast
is also a series of caves above the water- ecotourism potential of the lake and its
fall, their interior of different shapes and surrounding areas, in particular of the
colours (remember to bring a torch) – Reserva Bocas del Polochic, harbouring
one of the employees at the ticket office numerous species of wildlife.
can show you there. Buses and pickups

Lago de Izabal and the Río Dulce

travel in both directions until about Arrival and information
4.30pm.
Seven kilometres further west is the By bus Buses arrive and depart from the Parque
hidden Boquerón canyon, with near Central.
vertical cliffs rising more than 250m; Bike rental You can rent bikes at 6 Av 4–26.
villagers (including Hugo, a campesino- Tourist information Café El Portal (T 4181
cum-boatman) will paddle you 6361), on the east side of the plaza, is probably
your safest bet in terms of information. You can
upstream in a canoe for a small fee.
also organize tours from here, or try Hugo at Hotel
Ecológico, or Oscar Paz, who runs the Hotel Vista
del Lago. All can arrange boats and guides to
treat yourself

The Finca el Paraíso (T 7949

7131 or 7958 0013), two explore the surrounding countryside, plus fishing
kilometres south of the hot trips on the lake.
waterfall on the lakeshore, is
a perfect place to relax thanks Accommodation
to the delightfully peaceful
location the hotel enjoys – read Hotel Ecológico Cabañas del Lago T5597 6191
a book by the shore or go or 4037 6235. Located 1km east of the centre,
for a pleasant swim from the in a prime, tranquil lakeside plot, the bungalows
black-sand beach. The finca here are comfortable, spacious and attractive; the
has large, comfortable but rarely restaurant has stunning views and there is also
occupied cabañas ( ) that sleep a private beach– give Hugo or Sergia a ring and
up to four people, and a reasonable they will pick you up in town. Internet facilities
restaurant on the lakeside. available. 
Hotel Villela 6 Av 2–06 T5187 5043. A reason-
able deal, with rooms, all with private shower,
surrounding a courtyard. 
EL ESTOR Hotel Vista del Lago T7949 7205. Probably
Supposedly given its name because of the most atmospheric hotel in town, although
the English pirates who came up the Río fairly pricey, is set within a beautiful old wooden
Dulce to buy supplies at “the store”, the building by the dock, claimed by the owners to be
tranquil lakeside town of EL ESTOR the original “store” that gave the town its name;
lies six kilometres further west of El Che Guevara also once stayed here. It offers rather
Boquerón. In the 1970s, a subsidiary small, clean rooms with private bath – those on
the second floor have commanding views of the
of a Canadian company obtained a
lake. 
forty-year nickel mining concession,
Posada Don Juan On the main square T 7949
but shortly ceased operations when the 7296. Pleasant and clean excellent-value rooms
commodity price plummeted. Not only with fan, right next to Café Portal. 
did the company’s intrusive operations Restaurant Chaabil On the lakeside just
pose a serious threat to the Q’eqchi east of the plaza. This place offers lovely,
Maya community, but the resulting recently refurbished wooden rooms with hand-
adverse health effects of the plant have made beds and private bathrooms. 
209
 also remember to bring bottled water
Eating as they do not sell any in the village.
Café El Portal On the main square, this little café Locals organize treks into the foothills
serves top-notch Guatemalan food (Q15) and is of the Sierra de las Minas or can take
popular with the locals. you kayaking around the river delta. To
guatemala

Restaurant Chaabil Tasty food in a very pleasant get to Selempím, catch a public lancha
setting right on the lakefront. Try the seafood (Q80) – these run on Mondays, Wednesdays
dish. and Fridays for Q25 one way; on other
Restaurante del Lago On the square. This place days, you’ll have to get a private lancha
also scores for comida típica (Q15).
which can amount to about Q500;
obviously it’s much cheaper if there’s a
The Verapaces

Moving on big group. The reserve is managed by

Defensores de la Naturaleza, 5 Av and
By boat There are no public boats to other destina-
tions along the lake. You can hire a private lancha,
2 C, El Estor (T 7949 7130/7237, W www
although this will be fairly pricey. .defensores.org.gt), who also organize
By bus to: Río Dulce (hourly 6am–4.30pm; 1hr excellent tours deep into the heart of the
45min). There are also buses to Cobán (6hr), and refuge (all of their proceeds go towards
you can get to Lanquín via Cahabón – ask at Café the conservation of the reserve). Hugo
Portal for the latest schedule. and Oscar in El Estor (see p.209) can
also organize day-trip excursions to the
reserva bocas del zone nearest to El Estor.
polochic
The RESERVA BOCAS DEL
POLOCHIC is one of the richest
wetland habitats in Guatemala, and
shelters 275 species of birds and a large
The Verapaces
number of mammals, reptiles, amphib- The twin departments of the Verapaces
ians and fish. The ecosystem is one of harbour some of the most spectacular
the few places in the country where you mountain scenery in the country, yet
can find manatees and tapirs, and you’re attract only a trickle of tourists. Alta
bound to spot (or certainly hear) howler Verapaz, in particular, is astonish-
monkeys. ingly beautiful, with fertile limestone
A good place to stay is the village of landscapes and mist-soaked hills. The
Selempím, which is right on the edge mountains here are the wettest and
of the reserve. Accommodation is in a greenest in Guatemala – ideal for the
large screened wooden house with bunk production of the cash crops of coffee,
beds ( ) – this is organized through cardamom, flowers and ferns. To the
Defensores de la Naturaleza. You should south, Baja Verapaz could hardly be

verapaces history
The history of the Verapaces is quite distinct from the rest of Guatemala. The
Maya here resisted the Spanish so fiercely that eventually the conquistadors gave
up, and the Church, under the leadership of Fray Bartolomé de Las Casas, was
given the role of winning the people’s hearts and minds. By 1542 the invincible
Achi Maya had been transformed into Spanish subjects, and the King of Spain
renamed the province Verapaz (True Peace). Nonetheless, the Verapaces remain
very much indígena country: Baja Verapaz has a small Achi outpost around the
town of Rabinal, and in Alta Verapaz the Maya population is largely Poqomchi’ and
Q’eqchi’.
210
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more different: a low-lying, sparsely junction is a popular interchange, with

populated area that gets very little a handful of small comedores and snack
rainfall. vendors and a regular flow of public
Many travellers completely by-pass transport bound for Cobán, Guatemala
Baja Verapaz, whizzing through on City and towards Río Dulce.
Carretera 14 from Guatemala City to North of La Cumbre and the quetzal
Cobán and the rest of Alta Verapaz. reserve is the departmental border with
There are, however, a few sights worth Alta Verapaz, and shortly thereafter the
stopping off for en-route. Clustered city of Cobán, where you’ll find great
around the village of Pulrulhá are coffee, buzzing bars and a good range
sacred caves, the highest waterfall in of budget accommodation. Heading
Central America and the Biotopo del further towards Petén, take time to check
Quetzal. To the west of the highway the out some of the interesting community
Salamá valley drops dramatically away, tourism projects that showcase Alta
leading to the sleepy department capital Verapaz’s limestone landscape, as well
and beyond. To reach Salamá and as its living Maya heritage. Several of
the surrounding settlements you may the sites here are part of the “Puerto al
need to change buses at La Cumbre Mundo Maya”, a government-sponsored
junction, where a road plunges west programme promoting responsible
from Carretera 14 into the valley. The tourism in the region (see p.221). The
211
 TV and homely touches; balconies are decked
Market days in the with greenery and there are pet squirrels kept
Verapaces downstairs. 

Monday Salamá, Senahú, Tucurú

Tuesday Chisec, Cubulco, Lanquín, Eating
guatemala

Purulhá, Rabinal, San Cristóbal

Deli Donas 5 C 6–61, just off the west side
Verapaz
of the plaza. You’ll be glad you stopped in
Friday Salamá
Salamá when you try the coffee and cake here
Sunday Chisec, Cubulco, Lanquín,
(15Q). They also do a good breakfast for Q20.
Purulhá, Rabinal, San Jerónimo,
Antojitos Zacapanecos 6 C & 8 Av, on the
Santa Cruz, Tactic
northeast corner of the plaza. Simple cantina-style
The Verapaces

place with friendly staff. Filling tortilla with chicken,

star attraction in the area, however, salsa and salad Q20.
has to be the natural wonder of Semuc Restaurante la Cascada 4 C & 10 Av. Set around
Champey, just outside the village of a lovely courtyard, this restaurant offers a full menu
Lanquín. for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a variety of
popular favourites from burgers to grilled fish. Main
dishes go for around Q50.
Salamá
From the La Cumbre junction on
Moving on
Carretera 14, a paved road drops steeply
towards the secluded Salamá valley. By bus to: Chilascó (6:30am, 10am, 10:30am,
SALAMÁ itself, capital of the depart- 11am; 1hr 30min), from the northeast side of
ment, is a quiet town, where you are the plaza; Guatemala City (hourly 6am–4pm; 3hr
unlikely to bump into other gringos. 30min), from the southeast side of the plaza; La
There isn’t a great deal to see, but it Cumbre (for connections with Pullman buses to
Cobán and Guatemala City; every 15min 6am–6pm;
does make a handy base for visiting
30min), from the parking lot on 6 Av one block west
the Chilascó waterfall and is home to a of the plaza.
lively twice-weekly market.
Salto de Chilascó
Arrival and information
Just north of the La Cumbre junction,
By bus Buses coming from CA-14 enter Salamá at Km 144.5, a track leads east from the
from the north. The town is strung out for some way highway, towards the dramatic scenery
before the central plaza. Stay on the bus until after it of the Sierra de las Minas. After 12km
crosses the old bridge, from where it climbs a couple you reach the village of Chilascó, where
of blocks to the plaza. For orientation purposes, the the community administer the impres-
Church is on the eastern side of the Plaza. Minibuses
sive SALTO DE CHILASCÓ (last entry
terminate and depart from the dusty car park off
Avenida 6 one block west of the plaza. 1pm; US$5; W www.chilasco.net.ms), the
highest waterfall in Central America.
Most transport will drop you at the
Accommodation
information centre in Chilascó village,
Hospedaje Juarez 5 C & 10 Av T7940 1114. where you pay your entrance fee. From
Undercutting the other accommodation by a mile, here it’s a 3km walk, continuing along
this place offers basic, bare rooms for bargain the track road past village houses and
prices. Bathrooms are communal and clean.  plantations, to the beginning of the trail
Hotel Real Legendario 8 Av 3–57 T7940 0501. that leads down to the foot of the falls.
Probably Salamá's nicest hotel, Real Legendario is
This trail begins as a steep, muddy mule-
smart and clean with comfortable beds, private hot-
water bathrooms and cable TV. 
path heading down to a ridge flanked by
Posada Don Maco 3 C 8–26 T7940 0083. broccoli plantations. Take the footpath
Friendly, family-run business offering the best to the left for much easier passage. After
deal in town. Rooms have private bath, cable 1km the path plunges down into the
212
forested valley. The well-maintained tight curves below forested hillsides.
trail offers viewpoint picnic sites with Just before the village of Purulhá (Km
views towards the Chilascó Falls, posted 161) is the BIOTOPO DEL QUETZAL
information on local flora and fauna, (daily 7am–4pm; US$3), an 11.5-square-
as well as midway down, a campsite kilometre nature reserve designed to

guatemala
with eco-toilet. Don’t miss the Saltito, protect the habitat of the endangered
a delightful smaller waterfall halfway bird. The reserve comprises steep and
down, where you can bathe in the plunge dense rain- and cloudforest, pierced
pool and admire the stunning views. At by waterfalls, natural pools and the Río
the base of the main falls water cascades Colorado. There are two hiking trails,
onto huge boulders and seemingly one an easy one-hour circuit, and the

The Verapaces
disappears into the cavernous valley other a half-day Stairmaster. Trail maps
beyond the trail’s end. The walk back up are sold at the information centre at the
to Chilascó village requires a moderate park entrance. There are picnic areas, but
level of fitness (allow at least 2hr). no food is allowed on the trails.
Microbuses from Salamá to Chilascó The best time to catch a glimpse of
village pass the Chilasco junction of the quetzal is March–April at either
CA-14 at 7am, 11am, 11.30am and 1pm. dawn or dusk. Since the reserve is not
Otherwise, from the Chilascó junction, open during these hours it’s definitely
walk 200m back towards La Cumbre, worth spending the night to increase
and you’ll find the Río Escondido Lodge, your viewing opportunities. You can
where you may be able to arrange a lift stay near the reserve at the Ranchitos
for a fee ($10). Basic accommodation del Quetzal (T 5191 0042;  – ), 100m
( ) and food is available in Chilascó north of the entrance. The owner here
village. The last bus back to the highway was cunning enough to nurture the
leaves the village at 3pm. habitat of the quetzal’s favoured foods
and nesting places, so it’s now one of the
Biotopo del Quetzal prime places to view the plumed legend.
Back on CA-14 towards Alta Verapaz and There is also a simple comedor with
Cobán, the road sweeps around endless meals for Q30.

The resplendent quetzal

The quetzal, Guatemala’s national symbol, has a distinguished past but an
uncertain future. From the earliest of times, the bird’s feathers have been sacred:
to the Maya the quetzal was so revered that killing one was a capital offence, and
the bird is also thought to have been the nahual, or spiritual protector, of the Maya
chiefs. When Tecún Umán was slain by conquistador Alvarado, the quetzal is said
to have landed on his chest, and consequently obtained its red breast from the
Maya’s blood.
Today the quetzal’s image permeates the entire country: as well as lending its
name to the nation’s currency, citizens honoured by the president are awarded
the Order of the Quetzal, and the bird is also considered a symbol of freedom,
since caged quetzals die in confinement. Despite all this, the sweeping tide of
deforestation threatens the existence of the bird.
The heads of males are crowned with a plume of brilliant green, while the
chest and lower belly are a rich crimson and trailing behind are the unmistakable
oversized, golden-green tail feathers, though these are only really evident in the
mating season. The females, on the other hand, are an unremarkable brownish
colour. Quetzals also can be quite easily identified by their strangely jerky,
undulating flight.

213
 Buses from Cobán pass the reserve world-class coffee and local hospitality.
entrance every thirty minutes. To the However, there are also several inter-
north of the Biotopo, just past Pulrulhá, esting attractions. The town is centred
are the sacred Chicoy Caves (daily on an elevated plaza, with the Cathedral
9am–5pm; US$3) where there are gracing its eastern side. To the north
guatemala

towering stalagmites of up to 20m. and south the streets fall away steeply,
whilst the main thoroughfare, 1 Calle,
into alta verapaz stretches westwards to the mall of Plaza
Beyond the quetzal sanctuary, Carretera Magdalena, on the town’s outskirts. The
14 crosses into the department of Alta town’s central area is divided into four
zones, which are separated north–south
The Verapaces

Verapaz. The first place of any size is

Tactic – a small, mainly Poqomchi’- by 1 Calle and east–west by 1 Avenida.
speaking town adjacent to the main road,
which most buses pass straight through. Finca Santa Margarita
The colonial church in the centre of For a closer look at Cobán’s principal
the village, boasting a Baroque facade crop, take the guided tour offered by
decorated with mermaids and jaguars, is the Finca Santa Margarita (Mon–
worth a look, as is the Chi-Ixim chapel Fri 8am–12.30pm & 1.30–5pm, Sat
high above the town. 8am–noon; US$4), a coffee plantation
About 10km past Tactic is the turn- just south of the centre of town at 3 C
off for San Cristóbal Verapaz, a pretty 4–12, Zona 2. The interesting tour (in
town almost engulfed by fields of coffee English or Spanish) covers the history
and sugar cane, set on the banks of the of the finca, examining all the stages of
Lago de Cristóbal. From here a mostly cultivation and production. You also
paved road continues to Uspantán in get a chance to sample the crop and, of
the western highlands. course, purchase some beans.

Cobán Museo El Príncipe Maya

Though not as immediately impressive Several blocks southeast of the central
as other Guatemalan tourist centres, plaza you’ll find an excellent collection
once you get to know the welcoming of Maya artefacts and carvings inside the
mountain town of COBÁN, you may small Museo El Príncipe Maya, 6 Av 4–
find yourself sticking around and 26, Zona 3 (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; US$2),
making a few friends. When the weather including shell necklaces, polychrome
is dry, Cobán has a perfect alpine bowls and human figurines. Don’t miss
climate, allowing for fantastic day-trips the eccentric flints or the main attrac-
to surrounding forests, rivers, caves and tion: a stunning panel from a Cancuén
natural swimming pools. It’s thanks to altarpiece, embellished with 160 glyphs.
this fresh mountain air (and a good deal
of rain) that the town became an impor- El Calvario
tant coffee-growing centre; now the A short stroll north from the town
local coffee fincas offer tours and provide centre is the church of El Calvario,
beans to the town’s many excellent cafés. one of Cobán’s most attractive sights.
Ecotourism and cultural tourism are also Head west out of town on 1 Calle and
bringing increasing business to Cobán. turn right up 7 Avenida. You’ll pass a
number of tiny Maya shrines on the
What to see and do way up – crosses blackened by candle
smoke and decorated with scattered
Probably the nicest thing to do in Cobán offerings. There’s a commanding view
is to simply slow down and enjoy the over the town from the whitewashed
214
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The Verapaces guatemala

215
 church, which has a distinctly pagan Guatemala City, which drops you a block north of
aura, often filled with candles and Maya the plaza). Coming from points north you’ll arrive
worshippers. at the Microbus terminal on the northern outskirts
of town, and from Lanquin at the private terminals
on the northeast side of town. Coming from the
Parque Nacional Las
guatemala

west or south, ask the driver to let you off at Plaza

Victorias Magdalena, as the bus then heads off downhill
On the northwest edge of town, just away from town. From Plaza Magdalena or the
past El Calvario, is the Parque Nacional northern terminals it’s a 20min walk or Q15 taxi
Las Victorias (daily 6am–5pm; US$1), ride to the central plaza.
a well-managed park, with good trails Tour operators Maya’ch Expeditions, 1 C 4–11,
running through the pine forest. There Zona 1 (Wwww.mayachexpeditions.com), special-
The Verapaces

izes in trips to Semuc Champey. ProyectoEco-

is a campground ( ) with barbecue
Quetzal, 2 C 14–36, Zona 1 (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm;
area and toilets, but no showers. Wwww.ecoquetzal.org), arranges multi-day treks
to the nearby Chicacnab cloudforest, where visitors
Cooperativa Agricola stay with local Q'eqchi communities and provide
Integral Chijoj a sustainable income for villagers, who also serve
Just ten minutes west of Cobán is the as guides. Many of Cobán’s hotels also provide
Cooperativa Agricola Integral Chijoj tour services, with shuttles and tours to nearby
(US$10; W www.anacafe.org/coffeetour), attractions.
Tourist information There is no Inguat office
a community-run coffee farm. Tours
in town, but luckily the helpful staff at the Casa
here include zip-lining across a river Luna (see below), more than adequately fill the
and a full explanation of the coffee- information gap. An excellent map of Cobán and the
production process. To get here, take a Verapaces is available from Cyberplus on the plaza.
micro heading west to Chijoj from 3 C,
Zona 2 (Q2). City transport
Vivero Verapaz Microbuses For excursions just outside town
Another place worth a look is the (which most interesting attractions are), it’s
Vivero Verapaz (Mon–Sat 9am–noon cheapest to flag down a micro. In fact, even If you
have no desire to leave Cobán for the day, you will
& 1–5pm; US$1.50), a former coffee
surely be offered a place onboard a passing micro.
finca just outside town that is now Many run east–west along calles 2 and 3 in Zona 2;
dedicated to the growing of orchids, you can flag them down or hang out on street
which flourish in the sodden mountain corners with locals. You can also hop on for just a
climate. The plants are carefully grown few blocks (fares Q1–3).
in a shaded environment, and a farm Taxis There is a constant pack of hopeful taxistas
worker will show you around and point hanging out at the plaza. Agree fares before
out the most spectacular blooms, which departure – within town these shouldn’t exceed
are at their best between November and US$2.
January. It’s a forty-minute walk to the
nursery: leave the plaza on Diagonal 4, Accommodation
turn left at the bottom of the hill, cross
Casa d’Acuña 4 C 3–11, Zona 2 T7951 0482,
the bridge and follow the road for 3km; [email protected]. Primarily a restau-
taxis charge US$2.50, or you can jump rant, this place also has a few decent dorms with
on a micro heading for Tontem from two bunks in each and a couple of private rooms
3 Calle, Zona 2. (all with shared bath). Many rooms face directly
onto the restaurant courtyard, although things tend
Arrival and information to close up early so this shouldn’t cause too much
disturbance. Dorms  , doubles 
By bus Unfortunately, almost all public transport Casa Luna 5 Av 2–28, Zona 1 T7951
arriving in Cobán drops you on the outskirts of town 3528, [email protected].
(with the exception of the Monja Blanca bus from Steadily becoming Cobán's favourite backpacker
216
haunt. Run by charming Lionel and his family, this real deal, and the hot chocolate is hard to resist. The
small guesthouse is set around a pretty garden menu includes some interesting local specialities
with sun-drenched hammocks. There is also a TV and unusual veggie options (mains Q20–60, snacks
lounge, free breakfast, tour/shuttle service and free from Q15). Shake your maraca to order! Closed Sun.
bike rental. All rooms have shared bath, but the
Restaurants

guatemala
water is piping hot! Dorms  , doubles 
Casablanca 1 C 3–25, Zona 1 T5931 7862. In a Al Carbon d’Fiora 1 C 9–23, Zona 1. The
great location right on the plaza, this place offers meat dishes here justify an overnight stay
cheap beds in basic, rather damp and dark rooms. in Cobán. Ingredients are imported and owner/chef
There is a café and tour agency attached. Dorms Fiora lovingly prepares plates at his sizzling grill.
 , doubles  Burgers (Q30–40) and steaks (Q70–90) are served
Hotel Central 1 C 1–79, Zona 4. T7952 1442, with divine sautéed potatoes in a cheese and onion

The Verapaces
E [email protected]. A good choice sauce, and garlic bread. The place is so popular
for couples looking for a comfortable private room. with locals a new seating area is being opened
The rooms are bright, clean and come with TVs and upstairs. Open for dinner only (6.30–10pm).
private gas-fired hot-water bathrooms. Rooms are Cafetería Santa Rita 2 C, on the plaza next door
around a leafy courtyard, set back from the road.  to El Cafeto. An archetypal comedor with friendly
Hotel La Paz 6 Av 2–19, Zona 1 T7952 1358. This service and filling comida típica. Great prices
safe, pleasant budget hotel, run by a very vigilant – almost an entire menu is under Q20.
señora, is probably the best deal in town. Rooms Pollo Asado 2 Av 3–04, Zona 2. A local canteen
are basic but clean and face onto open corridor/ offering a cheaper alternative to the ubiquitous
courtyard sitting areas. There is parking and a small Pollo Campero. Grilled chicken, rice, salad, tortillas
comedor downstairs.  and drink for Q20.
Posada Don Pedro 3 C & 2 Av, Zona 2 T7951 Sonic Burger 1 C 3–50, Zona 3. The burgers here
0562. Friendly family-run place with simple rooms are the standard fast-food fare, but good value from
at simple prices. Most have shared baths, although Q10. Also nachos, sandwiches and salads, plus set
one has a private shower and TV. Set around a meals from Q15.
cheerful courtyard. Laundry service offered.  –
treat yourself

Bistro Acuña 4 C 3–17, Zona

Eating 2. This is the place to come for
high quality and huge portions.
Eating in Cobán comes down to a choice of some The professional service
excellent European-style restaurants and very complements the extensive
basic, cheap comedores. In the latter, look out menu, which includes Mexican
for kaq’ ik, a terrific turkey soup, but don’t bother and Italian favourites, as well
with the coffee. You’ll find the cheapest food at as grilled meats and seafood
the market, but as it’s closed by dusk, head to the (mains Q60–120). There is an
street stalls set up around the plaza. enticing dessert cabinet, as
well as freshly baked cake to take
Cafés away. Eating breakfast here will
El Cafeto 2 C 1–36, Zona 2. Right on the plaza, this keep you going for most of the day;
is another place to find a good cup of coffee (from the Spanish omelette (with chorizo,
the local Chijoj finca). There is a European-style olives and pepper; Q45) comes with
snack/breakfast menu (Q15–25) and pleasant lazy- plantains, beans, cheese, cream,
Sunday-morning ambience. fresh bread, OJ and coffee.
Fantasia 1 C 3–08, Zona 1. Down an alleyway
off the north side of the plaza, this is a reasonable
place for breakfast/lunch, with an extensive menu
of sandwiches, burgers and tacos (Q10–30; also
Drinking and nightlife
available with fries and a drink for Q30–40).
Xkape Kob’an Diagonal 4 5–13, Zona 2. The Ananda 4 C 3–24, Zona 4. Interesting, alternative bar,
slogan here reads “Where culture and nature popular with groups of students and run by an ultra-
meet” – and for a community-oriented venture, friendly young couple. There are always drink promo-
sourcing local produce and recipes, they seem tions, including tequila for Q5. It’s a particularly good
to have things about right. Though slightly more place for groups, as you can have your own private
expensive than other cafés, the coffee here is the cushion-filled room for a minimum cover charge.
217
 Bok’atas 4 C 2–34, Zona 2. Spanish-
owned and themed bar/restaurant. Seating Moving on
is outdoors but under cover and can be hard to
By bus to: El Estor (9.30am & 11am; 6hr), from
come by at weekends, when locals flock here for
3 C A & 3 Av, Zona 4; Guatemala City (hourly 2am–
tapas, draught beer and disco tunes. At Q20 the
4pm; 4hr 30min), from 2 C 3–77, Zona 4 (take these
guatemala

tapas isn’t cheap, but portions are big and tasty

buses for the Biotopo del Quetzal, Chilascó and
– try the spicy roasted potatoes. Owner Rafael
Salamá – change at La Cumbre); Lanquín (hourly
is renovating the large hall behind the bar and
6am–6pm; 1hr 45min–2hr 15min; take these buses
plans to host theatre, film showings, live music
for Semuc Champey or Cahabón); Senahu (10.30am
and more.
& noon; 5hr), from 3 C A & 3 Av, Zona 4.
Milenio 3 Av & 1 C. Something of a local institution,
By micro Micros for Chisec (1hr 30min), Fray
this is the place young folk go for dancing and live
The Verapaces

Bartolomé de las Casas (3hr), Playa Grande (4hr),

music. There is a Q20 entrance fee and beers are
Raxrujá (2hr 30min) and Uspantán (3hr) depart
Q20 a pop once inside.
the northern terminal at 3 Av, Zona 1, every 30min
5am–6pm. Micros for Sayaxché (daily 10am &
Directory 1.30pm; 4hr 30min) also depart the northern
terminal; the 1.30pm departure continues to Flores
Cinema Inside Plaza Magdalena (at the western (6hr 30min). For San Juan Chalmeco (10min) there
end of C 1) is a three-screen cinema; each screen are micros every 10min from the bridge at the
has two showings per day ($2). bottom of 1 Av A, Zona 3.
Exchange Most banks and ATMs can be found on
the plaza and along C 1. Banrural (on the southeast
Around Cobán
corner of the plaza) will change foreign currency
and traveller’s cheques. G&T Continental (1 C & 4 The area surrounding Cobán is both
Av) will also change dollars. craggy and lush, with limestone bedrock
Internet There are plenty of cybercafés around and a surface of patchwork fields. There
town. For fast connections and cheap prices head are still some areas of forest, mainly to
to Cyberplus (on the plaza), where they also have the southeast, but the Maya population
Skype (internet Q6/hr; Skype Q1.50/min to the US, of Alta Verapaz have turned most of the
Q2.50/min to Europe).
land over to the production of maize,
Language schools Cobán is becoming a popular
place to pick up some Spanish. Recommended
coffee and ferns. It’s worth venturing
schools include: Active Spanish School, 3 C 6–12, into this rural heartland of Guatemala
Zona 1 (T 7941 7123, E nirspanishschool to explore traditional market towns
@hotmail.com), and Muqb'ilb'e Spanish School, and their surrounding villages, as well
6 Av 5–39, Zona 3 (T 7951 2459, E muqbilbeav as fresh-water swimming pools and
@yahoo.com), where they also offer Q'eqchi stalagtite caves.
lessons.
Laundry Doña Betty’s Laundry, 2 C 6–10, Zona 3 San Juan Chamelco
(open ‘till late daily). They provide wash and dry
A few kilometres southeast of Cobán,
service in 2hr for Q30.
Post office 2 C & 2 Av (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm,
easily reached by regular micros, San
Sat 9am–1pm). Juan Chamelco is the most impor-
Shopping The lively daily market is centred tant Q’eqchi’ settlement in the area. It
around the junction of 3 C & 1 Av at the meeting is claimed, in fact, that the village was
of zonas 1 & 3, and extends uphill to the streets never conquered by the Spanish, and
behind the Cathedral, where you can find cheap certainly the community here remains
street food. For supermarket shopping head to largely indigenous. However, Chamelco’s
Dispensas Familias opposite the Cathedral, or focal point is its hilltop church, a huge,
Plaza Magdalena on the town’s western outskirts, open-plan space with timber frame roof
where you can also find a small selection of
and several Jesus effigies with bloody
clothing stores. For souvenirs, Casa d’Acuña and
Xkape Kob’an both have small shops selling local
stigmata and massacred eyelashes. The
crafts and produce. best time to visit the village is the week
Telephones Teluga has its main office on the plaza. preceding its annual fiesta (June 23),
There are plenty of payphones here too. when celebrations include folk dancing
218
in traditional dress and the arrival of in Zona 3, from where micros leave
numerous saints from neighbouring San every ten minutes.
Pedro Carcha, brought to greet the holy
effigies from Chamelco’s own church. Swimming pools
Just outside Chamelco are the On the road to Chisec, half an hour

guatemala
Grutas del Rey Marcos, an extensive outside Cobán, is the Ecocentro
cave network (daily 7am–5pm; US$4, Sataña (daily 9am–5pm; Q20), a
including the services of a guide, plus bathing complex that includes both
hard hat and boot rental). You can take natural and man-made swimming
a tour that explores up to 100m into the pools in a jungle setting, with gardens
caverns, which are full of stalagmites and picnic areas as well as a restaurant

The Verapaces
that uncannily resemble various familiar at weekends. Take any micro headed to
objects. To reach the caves, catch a micro Chisec.
from the church in Chamelco headed At the town of San Pedro Carcha,
for Santa Cecilia. 5km east of Cobán, is the Balneario
Micros congregate behind the church las Islas, another natural pool with a
on the hilltop and head to Cobán and river tumbling into it. To get to Carcha
the surrounding Maya villages. To get there are regular departures from the lot
to Chamelco from Cobán, head for the opposite the Monja Blanca terminal in
bridge at the southern end of 1 Avenida Cobán. The Balneario is about 15min
east of town – locals should be able to
treat yourself

Don Jeronimo’s Aldea direct you.

Chajaneb T5301 3191, W www
.dearbrutas.com/donjeronimo. Lanquín
To get a bit closer to rural Alta
Verapaz and to enjoy some From Cobán a newly paved road heads
fantastic hospitality, make the east, almost as far as the village of
short detour from Cobán to Don LANQUÍN (the last 11km are painfully
Jeronimo’s. This delightful rustic slow and bumpy). The journey is a
retreat is the home of American stunningly beautiful one, in spite of
Bob Makransky, who has been the evident deforestation – sit on the
living off the land here for more
right side of the bus for the best views.
than thirty years. The price includes
three home-grown, home-cooked
More and more backpackers are making
meals and the accommodation is the excursion in this direction to see
cosy, peaceful and private. You can the nearby natural wonder of Semuc
swim in the nearby creek, take a Champey, and consequently some
guided 2hr hike into the mountains excellent accommodation and activity
for awesome views or visit the options have sprung up. Most visitors
nearby Rey Marcos caves. For rainy stay a minimum of two nights (either
days, there’s a movie collection and
in Lanquín or around Semuc), with
comprehensive library. Alternatively,
Bob will keep you amused with
weekends and holidays being especially
his considerable expertise on local busy, as Guatemalans also flock to this
Q’eqchi’ culture. To get here from national landmark.
Cobán, catch a micro to San Juan The town of Lanquín itself is a sleepy,
Chamelco (5min) and at the church Q’eqchi’ village superbly sheltered
change for another towards Santa beneath towering green hills. As you
Cecilia (15min). Tell the driver you enter the village from Cobán you
want “Jeronimo’s”. From the road
pass the Grutas de Lanquín (daily
to the timber house it’s a 500m walk
beyond the gates along an obvious
8am–6pm; US$4), from where the Río
footpath.  Lanquín emerges. The river is fairly
feisty, but if you’re up for it locals will
219
 rent you inner tubes and pick you up of the valley. The accommodation ranges from
downstream. To view the caves you can camping ( ), to four-bed dorms and private two-
enter without a guide, but for a closer bed lofts ( ), to private cabins and rooms with
private bath ( ). The lodge also offers excellent
look take the guided tour from El Retiro
tours to Semuc Champey and the Kan’ba Caves
lodge (daily 4.30pm; Q55). At dusk
guatemala

(US$20), and another to witness the bat exodus

every day thousands of bats fly out of at the Grutas de Lanquín (US$8). Lockers, internet
the cave to feed – you can watch them and book swap available. Reserve in advance,
for free from the entrance car park or especially in high season.
anywhere along the river bank, but the
tour also allows you the opportunity to Eating
stand in the cave entrance as they zip
The Verapaces

past you. Cafeteria Champey Halfway between El Retiro and

the village, this place offers an alternative to those
opting out of Retiro’s evening meal. They serve an
Arrival and Information interesting range of international dishes, including
schnitzel and shakshuka (Q15–30).
By bus If your bus terminates in Lanquín, you’ll
El Retiro At the lodge. Definitely the place to be for
be dropped at the junction where the road splits
hungry mochileros (backpackers). Hearty, family-
east for Cahabón (and El Retiro lodge) and south
style evening meals (Q40) and zingy happy-hour
for Semuc Champey (and the village centre, just up
cocktails (Q10). Prices will start to add up, but it’s
the hill). If heading for El Retiro, it’s a 15min walk
hard to resist the banana and Nutella crêpes for
from the junction, so if your bus goes to Cahabón,
breakfast (Q24) or falafel sandwich for lunch (Q22).
stay aboard.
You can eat here even if you’re not staying, but it’s
Exchange The village has a bank, in the centre
a good idea to add your name to the dinner list in
of town on the road out towards Semuc Champey,
advance.
but no ATM.
Tour operators Guatemala Rafting (T 7983 3056,
E [email protected]) is a Dutch-run Moving on
outfit based next-door to El Retiro lodge in Lanquín.
By bus Buses for Cobán (1hr 45min–2hr 15min)
One-day rafting trip US$45, or two-day overnight
depart the central junction (but also tour the village
expedition $135 (including food and equipment).
picking up potential passengers) in the morning
Kayaks and two-person hotdog rafts also available.
from 5am hourly and in the afternoon at 2pm, 4pm
Tourist information There’s no official information
and 5pm. Buses arriving from Cobán pass the
outlet in town, but El Retiro can give information
central junction of Lanquin and continue to Semuc
tailoured to backpackers’ needs. The useful notice-
Champey or Cahabón (30–45min).
boards here provide thorough information about
onward transportation options.
Parque Nacional
Accommodation Semuc CHampey and
the Kan’Ba Caves
Posada Ilobal Past the market and bank in the
village centre T7983 0014. A small, cheerful The big draws to Alta Verapaz are
posada, representing the best deal in Lanquín for a the extraordinary pools of PARQUE
simple, clean and airy room. All rooms have shared NACIONAL SEMUC CHAMPEY
bath and some have lovely views.  (daily 6am–6pm; US$6.50), southeast
Rabin Itzam T 7983 0076. Bright pink building of Lanquín. Here the bulk of the Río
right at the Cobán/Cahabón/Semuc junction. Cahabón cuts underground, leaving a
There is a selection of basic rooms here; the best
suspended limestone bridge. The top
are upstairs, opening onto the roof terrace with
of the bridge is graced with a series of
priceless views. 
El Retiro T 7983 0009. Something of a
idyllic pools that descend in a natural
legendary travellers’ hangout, this lodge staircase of turquoise waters, bordered
consists of a series of bamboo cabins situated by steep jungle gorge walls, while below
on the rolling green banks of the Río Lanquín, the bridge is a raging torrent. A gruel-
faced with patchwork views of the opposing side ling trail leads up to a viewpoint and
220
another more leisurely to the pools shivering and happy to emerge to the
themselves, where you can swim. Do daylight.
not leave valuables unattended while
you paddle. While you can visit on your Accommodation
own, most travellers choose to visit the

guatemala
national park as part of a tour, which Las Marias T7861 2209, Eposadalasmarias
avoids having to wait for infrequent @yahoo.com. About 1km before the national park
public transport. In addition, coming and cave entrance. It's a rambling place with
wooden walls partitioning dorms and private rooms.
with a tour (see p.220 for operators in
There are also larger group/family cabins for 8–11
Lanquín) can offer additional oppor- people. Marias actually own the riverbank here
tunities to explore: many allow you to

The Verapaces
and along as far as the national park, including the
descend underneath the bridge to reveal Kan’ba Caves, where guests receive discounted
the raging river below. This is not for the entry. There are rope swings and sunbathing decks,
faint of heart (it involves a rope ladder), plus you can rent inner tubes. There is also a small
but it does give a complete perspective restaurant here. Dorms  , doubles  –
on this outstanding geological feature. El Portal T7983 0046/0043. Directly outside
To get to Semuc Champey without the national park entrance in a charming riverside
a tour you’ll need to catch a bus from location, this tasteful operation is threatening to
break the monopoly long held by neighbouring Las
Cobán (5.45am, 11am, noon & 5pm; 1hr
Marias. A range of sleeping options are offered in
30min–2hr) to Lanquín. Buses through
pretty thatched cabins – the cheapest are dorms
Lanquin to Semuc are irregular, but it with mattresses or beds (both  ) – and private
should be possible to flag down passing doubles with or without bath ( – ). There is also
pick-ups as an alternative. a small restaurant and well-stocked bar. Electricity
Another worthwhile adventure in the available 6–10pm.
area is a visit to the privately owned
KAN’BA CAVES (entrance by guided Moving on
tour only 8am, 10am, 1pm & 3pm;
US$6.50), on the riverbank directly By bus There are irregular buses to Lanquín in the
opposite the national park entrance. morning and early afternoon (30–45min). Alterna-
Best for adrenaline junkies, tours here tively, it may be possible to flag down a passing
are run without hard hats and torches pick-up; make sure you pay for your ride.
and instead feature stubby candles and
the need to swim one-handed while East to Cahabón
holding them aloft. Sharp rocks and Beyond Lanquín the road continues
slippery surfaces add to this treacherous 24km to the settlement of CAHABÓN.
assault course, which will leave you From here, a very rough road heads

Puerta al Mundo maya

From Cobán a good road heads north towards Petén. On the way are a collection
of sights worthy of exploration if you have the time. Administered by local
communities, but promoted by the umbrella association AGRETUCHI (T5978
1465, E [email protected] W www.puertamundomaya.com), the
attractions of the Puerta al Mundo Maya are monitored as low-impact, sustainable
tourism sites which can benefit the local community. The Gateway to the Maya
World is an innovative community tourism programme being developed with
support from (among others) inguat, USAID and The National Geographic Society.
Its attractions are dotted throughout northern Alta Verapaz and southern Petén.
These include: two of the four Candelaria caves (see p.223), B’omb’il Pek Cave and
the adjacent Río San Simon (see p.222), the Lagunas Sepalau (see p.222), Cancuén
(see p.224), El Peru (see p.239) and El Mirador (see p.239).

221
 south towards the village of Panzós, wooden staircase; the second cave
cutting high over the mountains through boasts ancient paintings of monkeys.
some of the finest, most verdant scenery A pleasant addition to the tour involves
in Guatemala. At the time of research inner tubing for thirty minutes (US$4)
there were no buses (only pick-ups) on the nearby Río San Simón, which
guatemala

leaving Cahabón for the three-hour trip cuts a tiny gorge through the rock.
to El Estor in the Polochic Valley; check Regular micros pass the highway office,
at El Retiro for the latest information. shuttling between Chisec and Raxrujá.
A more adventurous option is to cover
this territory by river: the Río Cahabón Lagunas Sepalau
is considered one of the best stretches Ten kilometres east of Chisec are the
The Verapaces

of white-water in Central America. It’s beautiful Lagunas Sepalau (daily 7am–

possible to arrange multi-day rafting 5pm; US$8). Set among a protected
trips out of Lanquín with Guatemala forest reserve, these four turquoise
Rafting (see p.220), allowing you to pools are sourced by groundwater in
connect with onward transport for Río the permeable limestone rock. Guides
Dulce and the Izabal area. High-water can escort you along a trail, pointing
season is June to February, when rapids out wildlife and medicinal plants, and
reach class IV/V; water levels may other- you can can swim or rent kayaks from
wise be too low. several rocky beaches. Camping is
permitted at the lakesides, as well as at
Chisec the entrance, where there are showers
CHISEC is a small town, bisected from and cooking facilities ( ). To get here
north to south by CA-14. There’s not from Chisec there is a 10am microbus
much here – in fact, the huge plaza and a few infrequent pickups that you
seems to account for half the town. can hitch a ride with (Q5). Stand on
However, there are a few hotels from the track road heading east from the
which to base yourself for visiting Municipalidad (on the Plaza), to flag
one down. Returning, most transport
nearby attractions.
passes the park in the afternoon; there is
a 1pm micro and later pickups take the
What to see and do Campesinos back to town. Alternatively
Just outside Chisec are a couple of the a taxi should cost Q50 each way.
attractions of the Puerta al Mundo
Maya. These can be visited independ- Arrival and information
ently, although public transport is
By micro Arriving from Cobán, you’ll be dropped
unreliable, so it may be worth contacting a block north of the plaza; otherwise, coming from
AGRETUCHI to help arrange a tour the north it’ll be the plaza itself (get off early if you
(see box, p.221). want the Hotel la Estancia).
Tour operators AGRETUCHI (T 5978 1465,
B’omb’il Pek [email protected]) can provide infor-
2km north of town, with an office on the mation on community-based ecotourism activities
highway, is the entrance to the B’omb’il around Chisec and beyond.
Pek caves. Tours (daily 8am–1pm;
US$8) are community-run, and last Accommodation
between three and four hours. In the
Hotel Elizabeth Opposite La Estancia. Rooms
course of the tour you will be shown here are bare and rather cell-like, but among the
two caves. One is entered via a deep cheapest in town. 
ravine, which you can rappel down to Hotel la Estancia T5514 7444. Sitting on the
(for an extra US$3), or take a slippery road north out of town, this multi-storey yellow
222
hotel is the best-quality place in town with its own,
surprisingly decadent, swimming pool complex. Accommodation and eating
Rooms have private bathroom and TV and come
Hotel Cancuén T 7983 0720. An excellent-
with or without a/c.  –
value option at the western end of town.
Hotel Nopales T 5514 0624. On the plaza, this
Rooms are with or without private bath and have

guatemala
small hotel has basic rooms with bathroom, TV and
cable TV and fan or a/c. The management are
fan. There is also a small comedor and an empty
extremely friendly and run tours to their privately
swimming pool. 
owned cave complex, as well as to the Cancuén
ruins. There is a small comedor on site, plus
Eating internet access and cold drinks.  –
Hotel Gutierrez An alternative for budget rooms,

The Verapaces
Café la Huella On the main road, just off the north Hotel Gutierrez has tiny cell-like rooms with fan and
side of the plaza, this simple comedor offers cheap shared bath. It’s near the centre of town opposite
snacks and breakfasts for Q5–15. the football pitch.  –
Rancho el Potrillo A large thatched restaurant/bar Restaurant Steakhouse On the main road.
northeast of the plaza. They serve breakfast (Q15– Despite the name, this place serves the standard
20), snacks (Q10–15) and main meals (Q25–30). comida típica, though it is good value and tasty.
Restaurant Mi Casita One block north of the Main dishes run 35–60Q and snacks, including a
plaza, along from the microbuses heading north, mountain of Mexican tacos, Q5–15.
this is a new, open-plan restaurant. A tasty plate of
comida típica with beer will set you back Q35.
Moving on
Directory By micro to: Cobán (2hr 30min), Fray Bartolomé
de las Casas (1hr) and Sayaxché (2hr) depart from
Exchange There are two banks on the plaza; the the central junction every 30min between 6am
Agromercantil has an ATM. and 5pm.
Internet There are a couple of cafés on the main By bus to: Guatemala City (10hr). Departs Hotel el
road heading north out of town. Amigo (on the main road) at 6pm daily.
Post office One block up from the eastern side of
the plaza.
Around Raxrujá
The limestone hills around Raxrujá are
Moving on
riddled with cave networks and subter-
By micro to: Cobán (1hr 30min) depart from the ranean rivers. Also nearby is the rarely
south side of the plaza, Raxrujá (1hr) and Playa visted Mayan ruin of Cancuén (one of
Grande (2hr 30min) depart from one block north of the sites promoted as part of the Puerta
the plaza. (Some northbound micros also continue al Mundo Maya).
on to Sayaxché or Fray Bartolomé de las Casas).
Micros depart approximately every 30min.
The Candelaria Caves
Candelaria Caves are a very accessible
RAXRUJá set of caves. Rather confusingly, there are
The small town of RAXRUJÁ provides four possible entrances: two are commu-
a handy base for visiting the nearby nity-run (Candelaria Camposanto and
Candelaria cave network and the Mucbilha’1; contact AGRETUCHI in
Maya ruins of Cancuén. The town Chisec, see p.221) and two are privately
itself, however, is little more than a owned (Cuevas de Candelaria and
200m stretch of buildings along the Candelaria los Nacimientos) – the
roadside, centred at the junction where latter two are most easily accessible for
the paved road ends and rough tracks independent travellers.
lead off to the village of La Unión to Hotel Cancuén in Raxrujá offers a full
the north, or across a rickety bridge day tour (US$17) to Los Nacimientos,
towards Fray Bartolomé de las Casas where you can visit the crystalline Cueva
to the east. Blanca, as well as float for several hours
223
 through the creepy bat-filled caverns. Fray Bartolomé de las
Alternatively, to reach the Cuevas de Casas
Candelaria entrance, hop on a micro One hour east of Raxrujá is the isolated
heading west from Raxrujá. After five settlement of Fray Bartolomé de
minutes a path leads off the road, from las Casas, referred to as simply Fray
guatemala

the large “Cuevas de Candelaria” sign, (pronounced “Fry”) by locals. The town
towards a resort complex containing has some basic accommodation and
some overpriced rustic bungalows and comedores plus ATMs and a thriving
a restaurant that offers probably the market. Otherwise, there isn’t much
best food for miles around (mains from of interest here. However, it is a main
Q35). You don’t have to be a guest to transport link between Alta Verapaz and
The Verapaces

visit the caves here. A one-hour group other popular areas to the east and north.
tour on foot is US$4, or by inner-tube Regular transport leaves the market place
US$13.50. Usually you can tag onto bus terminal for Sebol/Raxrujá/Cobán
a group if they have one visiting and and the village of Chahal (1hr), from
simply pay per head. Otherwise, you where there are further micros heading
need a minimum of three to obtain the east towards the highway junction of
above rates. Modesto Mendes/Cadenas (2hr), where
you can connect with passing transport
Cancuén to Poptún or Río Dulce. There is also a
North of Raxrujá is the large Maya site daily bus from Fray to Poptún (via San
of Cancuén (daily 8am–4pm; US$8), Luis). However, this is a painfully slow
where a huge Classic-era palace has road and the bus departs at 3am, making
been unearthed. Uniquely, Cancuén the route via Chahal potentially quicker
seems to have lacked the usual religious and certainly more convenient. In
and defensive structures characteristic between Chahal and Modesto Mendes
of Maya cities, instead existing as an are the natural pools of Las Conchas
essentially secular trading city. The vast and the nearby backpackers’ hide-away
amounts of jade, pyrite, obsidian and of Oasis Chiyu (T 5839 4473, W www
fine ceramics found recently indicate .naturetoursguatemala.com;  ), where
that this was actually one of the greatest you can sleep in dorms and enjoy break-
trading centres of the Maya world, with fast and dinner.
a paved plaza (which may have been
a marketplace) covering two square Parque Nacional
kilometres. Cancuén is thought to Laguna Lachuá
have flourished because of its strategic In the far northwest corner of Alta
position between the great cities of the Verapaz is the frontier town of Playa
lowlands, like Tikal and Calakmul, and Grande and the nearby natural
the mineral-rich highlands of southern attraction of PARQUE NACIONAL
Guatemala. The site is administered by LAGUNA LACHUÁ (daily 7am–4pm;
AGRETUCHI and there is a visitors’ US$5.50; T 7861 0086), a great place
centre and toilets. to get off the beaten track for a day or
To get to Cancuén, pick-ups (approxi- two of tranquil, no-frills swimming
mately hourly) leave Raxrujá for the and sunbathing. The lake is a near
aldea of La Unión, 12km to the north, perfect disc of crystal water, ringed by
where boatmen will take you by lancha tropical forest reserve, and the area is
(Q30) for the thirty-minute ride along home to a host of wildlife, including
the Río Pasión to the site. It’s also possible jaguars, ocelots, otters and tapirs. The
to travel via the village of La Isla, but scrupulously maintained national park
connections here are not as good. provides camping facilities ( ) as well
224
 as a lodge with mosquito-netted bunks territory but is home to just three percent
( ). There are good cooking facilities of its population. Of late, though, there
and drinking water, but you need to has been a wave of ladino immigration
bring your own food. to the area, encouraged by the govern-
Microbuses from Cobán pass the park ment in an attempt to bring this wild

guatemala
entrance hourly (4hr), or you can pick land into production. Vast swathes of
one up at the junction with the main rainforest have been cleared for ranching
road (2hr). You pay your entrance fee and commercial logging, despite the
and accommodation costs at the visitors’ fact that forty percent of the depart-
centre on the road. It is also possible to ment is officially protected by the Maya
leave your backpack here and take just Biosphere Reserve. However, most

Petén
a smaller bag on the sweaty 4km walk sights of note are at least still shrouded
through the jungle to the lakeside lodge. in jungle, and you will doubtless witness
some of Petén’s remarkably vibrant
wildlife.
El Petén also boasts an incredible

Petén number of Maya sites – several hundred

ruined cities have been mapped in the
region, though most are still buried
The low-lying northern department beneath the jungle. The superstar
of Petén, once the Maya heartland, attraction is Tikal, but other less visited
occupies about a third of Guatemala’s highlights include atmospheric Yaxhá

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 and the immense El Mirador. Of calories you can also hike, inner-tube or
modern towns, the twin lakeside towns horse-ride and visit local caves, forests
of Flores and Santa Elena form the and swimming holes. Most people
hub of the department, and you’ll find hang around longer than they’d origi-
hotels and restaurants to suit all tastes. nally planned, some staying to work as
guatemala

Halfway between Flores and Tikal is the volunteers. The range of accommoda-
tranquil alternative base of El Remate. tion options includes: camping ( ),
The caves and scenery around Poptún, dorms ( ), treehouses ( ), bungalows
on the main highway south, also justify ( ) and private rooms with or without
exploration, while down the other road bathroom ( –).
south, Sayaxché is surrounded by yet To get to the finca ask the bus driver to
Petén

more Maya sites. drop you at the gate (marked by a large

sign), from where it’s a fifteen-minute
Poptún and around walk through the pine trees; after dark,
Heading north from the Río Dulce the it’s safest to head for the Fonda Ixobel
smooth paved highway to Flores cuts restaurant in Poptún and they’ll call a
through a degraded landscape of small taxi to drop you off. When you leave,
milpa farms and cattle ranches that there are direct shuttle services to
was jungle a decade or two ago. Many Flores and Río Dulce or alternatively
travellers choose to stop along the way back on the main road flag down a
at the sublime Finca Ixobel (see below) passing micro to Poptún town and
outside the small town of POPTÚN. arrange onward public transport. There
There’s no particular reason to stay in is a twice-daily (11.30am and 11.30pm)
the town itself, but you may well stop Linea Dorada service to Guatemala
by to use a cybercafé (try Servicio de City (7hr) via Río Dulce, as well as a
Internet, next to the Fuente del Norte 9.30am departure to Fray Bartolomé de
bus office) or banks (Bancafé has a Visa las Casas (6hr) and regular services to
ATM). The area around Poptún also Flores (2hr).
offers excellent opportunities to visit
little-known attractions, including
Flores and santa
the Naj Tunich Caves, the delightful elena
swimming pool of Las Cataratas water- Despite the legions of tourists that pass
falls near the village of Mopán and the through FLORES, the gateway to the
minor archeological sites of El Chal, Mundo Maya and the capital of Petén,
Ixcún and Ixtontón. it has nonetheless retained an easy
pace and a sedate, Old World atmos-
Finca Ixobel phere. This tiny island (joined by a
About 4km south of Poptún, 500m causeway to the shore) on Lago
surrounded by fragrant pine forests in de Petén Itzá has historically been a
the foothills of the Maya Mountains, is natural point of settlement. It remained
the Finca Ixobel (T 5892 3188, E info
A the capital of the Itzá Maya until 1697,
@fincaixobel.com), a working farm that when the Spanish finally forced the
also provides guest accommodation, town (then known as Tayasal) under
local excursions, a swimming pond their control. Today the lake’s shores are
and a great restaurant and bar. This is hosting a more cosmopolitan crowd.
a wondrously relaxing place, where you Across the causeway, SANTA ELENA
can swing in a hammock and gorge and adjoining San Benito are home to
yourself on wholesome food (bacon, the gritty business of Guatemalan life,
egg and fresh bread Q12; evening meal with sprawling markets and multiple
Q40–60). If you need to burn off some hardware stores.
226
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Flores boasts the lion’s share of quality check out the market, which chaotically
restaurants and decent budget accom- surrounds the old (still partly used) bus
modation, while Santa Elena is the terminal.
region’s transport hub and home to
several banks and characterless expen- Arrival and information
sive hotels. You will inevitably at least
pass through Santa Elena on your way in By air The airport is in Santa Elena, 3km east of the
and out of Flores, but there is no partic- causeway (a Q5 tuk-tuk or Q15 taxi ride into town).
Returning to the airport, local buses leave from the
ular reason to visit here other than to
Flores end of the causeway every 20min or so.
227
 By bus All buses stop in Santa Elena. There is a (daily 7.30am–noon & 2–6pm; T 5414 3594), as
new bus terminal on the northern outskirts, where well as two larger offices, both on the main road
Pullman buses and many micros terminate. From east from the airport (Mon–Fri 7.30am–3.30pm;
here a tuk-tuk to anywhere in Flores or Santa Elena T5114 0109). There is also an Asistur booth on the
costs Q5, and a taxi should be Q15. Some buses causeway. In addition, Los Amigos Hostel and Cafe
guatemala

(notably the international services from Palenque, Yaxhá both offer excellent impartial advice and local
Chetumal and Belize City) drop you just a block up information for travellers.
from the causeway, from where it’s a short walk to
Flores’ accommodation. To confuse matters there Island transport
is also a chaotic second (old) bus terminal, still
in use for regional departures and arrivals. From Canoes Restaurant Villa del Chef rents canoes for
here, you’ll need to navigate your way through the Q20 per hour.
Petén

market stalls onto C 4, from where it’s a 10min Lanchas You can hop across to the Tayasal
walk to Flores (or Q5 in a tuk-tuk). Peninsula by lancha for Q5. They run on a regular
Tour operators These are ten-a-penny in Flores. You basis until 11pm from the dock on Flores’ northeast
are most likely to deal with San Juan Travel (T5847 shores. Boatmen also offer day and half-day trips
4729, [email protected]), on the Calle to explore the lake by lancha. Most hang out at the
Sur (Flores) or 6 Av (Santa Elena). San Juan offers dock beside the Villa del Chef. Look for Miguel, who
the most frequent return shuttle service to Tikal was born in Flores in 1925 and has some great
(Q60 return) and a popular “Sunrise Tour”, allowing stories.
you flexibility in your return transport with several Taxis and tuk-tuks For short hops, tuk-tuk drivers
afternoon shuttles from the park back to Flores charge Q5 for anywhere in the Flores/Santa Elena/
(Q300). Trying to muscle in on the sunrise action are San Benito area. For longer journeys, taxi fares start
Little Caesar (T5418 4898, Elittlecaesarstravels at Q15. To reach other lakeside villages, see p.231.
@yahoo.com) and Beto, two local guides who have
each set up agencies close to Los Amigos Hostel; Accommodation
Caesar speaks better English. Their tours are Q250/
Q240 respectively, including guide services, park There are several good budget places in Flores
entrance and return transportation. San Juan Travel itself, making it unnecessary to stay in noisier and
also runs shuttles to domestic and international dirtier Santa Elena. Many tour groups pass through,
destinations. Many Flores-based agencies offer using the mid- to top-range accommodation, but
tours to remote Maya sites and will book flights and there are also plenty of businesses tailored to the
shuttles. backpacker market. Unless otherwise marked, all
Tourist information There’s no shortage of places listed below are in Flores.
information sources in Flores, but be careful who
you listen to as there are coyotes about (see box Hotels and guesthouses
below). Inguat, the official tourist board, has an Los Amigos C Central T7867 5975,
information booth at the airport (daily 7.30am–1pm Wwww.amigoshostel.com. The undisputed
& 4–6pm), another booth on Calle Sur in Flores home of budget travellers in Flores, this is what

Flores’ Coyotes
Many travellers experience the hard sell on arrival in Flores from local ticket touts,
known as coyotes. These guys know every trick in the book to persuade you
to spend your money with them. Be especially aware on tourist shuttles arriving
from Belize and Mexico, when you are likely to be travel-weary and green (ie, new
to the country). Most coyotes speak excellent English and will bamboozle you
with their seemingly exhaustive knowledge of your future travel options. Many
susceptible backpackers are persuaded to book hotel rooms, tours and onward
travel arrangements before even setting foot on Flores Island. In some cases
coyotes have been found selling completely fake tickets; even if you do receive
the service you’ve seemingly paid for, you will almost certainly have paid over the
odds, as coyotes take a cut. Always buy tickets from a legitimate tour operator
or hotel staff. Don’t be in a hurry – if you shop around you’re likely to get the best
price and service.

228
all good hostels should be: cheap, clean, secure immaculate hotel is creeping into the mid-range
and with great services. Run by two Dutch guys budget, but still good value. Double rooms have fan,
and a posse of Guatemalan chicas, Amigos has a bathroom and cable TV. There are excellent views
sociable, yet pleasantly mellow atmosphere. There from the roof terrace. 
are two large dorms ( ), smaller four-person Posada San Miguel Across the lake in San Miguel

guatemala
dorms (with private hot-water baths;  ) and village T7867 5312, Eposadasanmiguel1
private doubles (without bath;  ). Also provided are @gmail.com. A delightful family-run posada. For
lockers, a bookswap, internet and extensive tourist a private double it's better value than anywhere
information. There is also an excellent restaurant on in Flores (even if you take into account the return
site (see below). lancha fare). Large lake-front rooms are best, with
Doña Goya’s 1 C La Unión T7867 5513, comfortable furnishings, private bathroom, TV and
E [email protected]. Popular stunning views. There is a small beach directly out

Petén
alternative to Los Amigos with dorm beds ( ) and front and a simple comedor downstairs. 
very pleasant private doubles ( ). There is a great
terrace upstairs for chilling, while downstairs is a Eating and drinking
small breakfast room with bookswap and internet
facilities. A second branch of Doña Goya’s is 20m There is a good selection of dining options in Flores,
around the corner. although due to the abundance of wealthy clientele
Dos Pilas Alley off C Sur, T5064 3229. At the prices are not necessarily low. For economical
time of research this family-run business (formerly eats, head for the stalls on the plaza (7am–10pm)
Flores/Tikal Backpackers), was going through a or on Calle Sur (5pm–1am). In Santa Elena there
renovation to create a second dorm and several are numerous comedores where you can find the
private rooms upstairs. The dorm mattresses are inevitable rice and beans for less than $2. Be aware
imaginatively housed in individual “tepees”, each that some local restaurants still serve wild game
with their own fan and TV. The hostel’s walls are (such as venado, pavo silvestre, coche de monte
testament to its popularity with graffiti scrawled or tepesquintle) – this is best avoided, as it is most
in its praise from the international guests. Simple, likely to be poached from reserves. All restaurants
economic food is served and there is a great lake and bars listed below are in Flores.
view from the terrace upstairs. Tepee mattress 
Hotel Embajador Opposite the new bus terminal in Restaurants and bars
Santa Elena tno phone. If you’re desperate to stay Los Amigos C Central. It’s hard to beat Los Amigos
in Santa Elena for an early morning bus, this handy for value on portion size, and they have the best
cheapie is a stone’s throw from the terminal. It’s vegetarian selection in town (if not the entire
basic but will suffice.  country), including vegetable skewers or curry Q30.
Hotel Mirador del Lago C 15 Septiembre T7867 Also popular are the huge licuados; the banana,
5409. Reasonable deal for private rooms on the milk and cinnamon (Q12) is a meal in itself. Happy
lakeshore. Basic rooms have fan and bathroom but hour (7–8pm) means 2-for-1 beers and discounted
no view, while those facing the lake also have cable cocktails.
TV. There is internet, laundry service and a small Cafe Arqueológico Yaxhá C 15 Septiembre
restaurant.  – T5830 2060, Wwww.cafeyaxha.com.
Hotel Los Peches C Sur T7867 5207, Good wholesome food. Most interesting is the
E [email protected]. Private pre-Hispanic menu of Maya specialities; the yucca,
rooms here are a bit shabby and overpriced, but egg, tomato and herbs (Q30) is surprisingly tasty.
there is also a huge lake-front dorm with its own The walls of the café are covered with posters and
bathroom and terrace. It could do with some photos relating to local Maya sites, to which the
finishing touches – despite the view, curtains German owners run excellent tours. They also offer
would be nice – but is still a decent budget option. excellent information about the immediate local
Dorms  , doubles  area and run evening slide-shows.
Hotel La Unión C La Unión T7867 5531. On the Casa Amelia C La Unión. One of a string of attrac-
western shore of the island with sunset views. For tively located restaurants on Flores’ western shores,
smart private rooms this place is excellent value Amelia serves standard pastas (Q30) and pizzas
– rooms are clean, bright and come with bathroom (Q60) with a few veggie options (from Q25). The
and fan. Those with direct lake view cost a bit extra. generous happy hour runs 5–9pm.
Downstairs is an internet café.  – Cool Beans C 15 Septiembre. One of the
Posada de la Jungla C Centroamerica T7867 most atmospheric places to eat and drink
5185, [email protected]. This small but on the island, with a thatch-shaded seating area
229
 Into Belize: Melchor de mencos
There is regular transportation from Flores to the Belize border at Melchor de
Mencos, most frequently from the Terminal Vieja (every 15min; 2hr 30min). It is
also possible to take direct services to Belize City and beyond. The border is fairly
guatemala

straightforward, although you’ll probably be charged a Q10 unofficial exit tax.

Moneychangers should give you a fair rate (to make matters easier the Belize dollar
is fixed 2:1 to the US dollar). Once in Belize you’ll need to take a taxi (US$2) for the
short journey to Benque Viejo del Carmen, from where it’s a half-hour bus journey
to the pleasant town of San Ignacio, or three hours to Belize City.
Petén

that runs down to a lakeshore garden where there Language schools The only place in town offering
are hammocks. The extensive menu features Spanish classes was Academia de Español Dos
such favourites as granola, yogurt and fruit (Q18), Mundos (c/o Cafe Yaxhá), where 20 hours of one-
brownies (Q5), nachos (Q20), club sandwiches to-one tuition costs US$100.
(Q25) and refillable coffee (Q8). Open Mon & Laundry Cheapest is Beto’s, just around the corner
Wed–Sun till 9pm. from Los Amigos on Av Barrios (wash and dry Q23).
Pizzeria Picasso C 15 Septiembre. Deep-pan Since he runs sunrise tours to Tikal the shop is
bases and generous toppings mean a regular pizza often closed until noon.
can feed two (unless your appetite is fuelled by a Post offices In Flores, on Av Barrios (Mon–Fri
day’s temple-climbing). Pizzas from Q35, pastas 8.30am–noon); in Santa Elena, C Principal, two
and burgers from Q25. Closed Mon. blocks east of the Banco Agromercantil (Mon–Fri
Las Puertas C Central & Av Santa Ana. Worth it 8am–4.30pm).
for the atmosphere, this bistro-style place is a Shopping As well as the plethora of tourist shops,
bit pricey (beers Q20), but has a good menu with there is a friendly handicraft market on the Parque
pastas and paninis for less than Q30 and some Central (9am–9pm).
tempting desserts (tiramisu Q16). Opposite is a
makeshift cinema, where you can watch a movie Moving on
for Q20, including a free Cuba Libre.
Raices Disco/Restaurant Western end of C Sur. By air to: Cancún (11.30am with TACA; 1hr 45min;
Head here for late-night cheap drinks and dancing. US$220); Guatemala City (8.30am & 6.50pm with
Beers and Cuba Libres go for Q10. The excellent TACA, 4pm with TAG; 50min; from US$200 return).
restaurant downstairs specializes in grilled meats TACA information on t2470 8222, Wwww.taca
and packs in the tour groups. Closed Mon. .com; TAG information on T 2380 9400. Demand
Villa del Chef C La Unión. Next door to Casa is heavy for these flights, and over-booking is
Amelia, this candle-lit pontoon offers good home- common. Reserve well in advance and arrive
cooked plates. The fries are the closest you’ll get to promptly for check-in. There is a Q20 departure tax
an English “chippy” on the island and the chicken charged on all flights. At the time of research, Tropic
skewers come recommended. Mains Q35–60. Air (for Belize City) had suspended flights.
Happy hour 4.30–6pm. By bus All services listed here depart from the new
bus terminal in Santa Elena. Buses go to: Bethel
Directory (5am, with Fuente del Norte; 4hr); El Remate (6am
& 7am, with Transportes Imperio Maya; 30–45min);
Exchange Most banks and ATMs are in Santa Guatemala City (9pm & 11pm, with ADN; 3.30am,
Elena, around the central junction of 6 Av and 4 4.30am, 7am, 7.45am, 8.30am, 9.45am, 10am,
C, although there is now a temperamental ATM 11am, noon, 1.30pm, 2pm, 4.30pm, 6pm, 7.30pm,
in Flores on C 30 Junio and one at the new bus 8pm, 8.30pm, 9pm, 9.30pm, 10pm, 10.30pm, with
terminal. Be alert on Sun when local thieves may Fuente del Norte; 8–9hr); Melchor de Menchos
take advantage of the lack of armed security at (2.30am, 5am, 6am, 4.30pm, 11pm, with Fuente
ATMs. There are currently a number of scams del Norte; 2hr 30min); Río Dulce (6am, 10am, 2pm,
– check at Los Amigos for updates. with Maria Elena; 3hr); Sayaxché (6am, with Fuente
Internet There are several cybercafés along C del Norte; 2hr); San Salvador (6am, with Fuente del
Centroamerica. The cheapest is Beto’s tour agency- Norte; 15hr); Tikal (hourly 6am–1pm, with Trans-
cum-laundry-cum-internet café on Av Barrios portes Imperio Maya; 1hr 30min); Uaxactún (1pm,
(Q6/hr). with Transportes Imperio Maya; 2hr 30min). Many
230
 buses to Guatemala City stop in both Poptún and together and haggle fairly fiercely.
Río Dulce en route. Estimate about US$8 per hour.
By microbus Local micros depart to Petén destina-
tions from the Terminal Vieja (old terminal, buried Peninsula Tayasal
within Santa Elena’s market) usually 6am–6pm.
Incredibly, this attractive peninsula, just

guatemala
Destinations include: Bethel (11.30am, noon,
3.30pm; 4hr); La Técnica, via Bethel (8am & 9am;
a five-minute lancha ride across the lake
5hr); Melchor de Menchos, via El Remate (every from Flores, is largely overlooked by the
15min; 2hr 30min); Poptún (hourly; 2hr); Sayaxché tourist dollars flooding into that town.
(every 10min; 2hr); San José/San Andrés (every The village of San Miguel and nearby
15min; 1hr). El Mirador and Playita el Chechenal
make for an easy off-the-beaten-track

Petén
Lago de petén Itzá excursion. Regular lanchas leave from
While the majority of visitors to Flores the northeast shores of Flores to San
rightly prioritize a visit to Tikal, there Miguel. To reach the Mirador it’s a
are a string of other worthwhile day-trip twenty-minute, fairly isolated walk.
excursions in the region surrounding Follow the lakeshore west past the
LAGO DE PETÉN ITZÁ. village, turn uphill after the last build-
From Flores it’s possible to visit a ings, then follow the track up until it
number of nearby attractions by lancha. evens out to a shaded trail and take the
These include: the tiny Museo Santa left branch (keeping the lake to your
Barbara (8am–noon & 2–5pm; Q10), left). Eventually you’ll reach a clearing
on an island just off Flores’ western from where concrete steps lead up to
shores, which houses a collection of the wooden lookout tower. There are
Maya pottery and a very old gramo- fantastic views of the lake and its settle-
phone; ARCAS, an animal rescue ments. Back down at the clearing you
NGO to the east of San Miguel village can follow another trail for ten minutes,
(9am–3pm; Q15), where you can volun- around the northern side of the penin-
teer (US$100 per week) or simply visit sula (keeping the lake to your left), until
and see rescued parrots and monkeys; you reach a signposted left turn for La
and beyond ARCAS, the Petencito Zoo Playita. You can see the turquoise water
(8am–5pm; Q20), which is home to beckoning you and there is a quiet beach
(among others), crocodiles, tigers and area with picnic benches and toilets
some zippy waterslides. For the best (Q5). To return to San Miguel village,
lancha prices you’ll need to get a group simply turn left at the end of the beach
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231
 road and follow the track for fifteen (T 7928 8056, E escuelabioitza@hotmail
minutes to complete your circuit. .com), in San José, part of a project for the
conservation of the Itzá biosphere and
Actun-Kan Caves culture. Activities include volunteer work
Just north of Santa Elena, past the new in the botanical garden and preparing
guatemala

bus terminal, is the entrance to the natural medicines and cosmetics.

Grutas Actun-Kan, or serpent caves
(8am–5pm; Q20). Bring your own flash- El Remate
light and decent shoes, as the interior The village of EL REMATE lies midway
is dark and pretty slippery. The cave between Flores and Tikal on the north-
comprises a series of small passageways
Petén

eastern corner of Lago de Petén Itzá.

and some stalagtites apparently resem- The lake is a beautiful turquoise blue
bling well-known images. There are, here and many of the budget hotels
however, no snakes. A tuk-tuk to the offer swimming access – an extremely
caves is Q5. welcome idea after a sweaty morning
climbing Tikal’s jungle temples. As it is
San Andrés and San José only a thirty-minute drive to Tikal from
Across the lake from Santa Elena and here, you also get to beat the crowds
Flores are the quiet villages of San coming from Flores and arrive at an
Andrés and San José. There is no longer empty site to hear the jungle awake. All
a public boat service here as the road of El Remate’s hotels offer door-to-door
has been paved and regular micros return shuttles to Tikal for Q50. All in
now whiz past. The villages’ roads slope all, it makes an excellent alternative to
steeply up from the shore, lined with Flores for visits to the region.
colourful buildings. San José, in partic-
ular, has an impressive array of facili- What to see and do
ties (including a water park and music
stadium). There is also a lovely public On the north shore of the lake, fifteen
beach, a bank with planned ATM (under minutes’ walk from the centre of El
construction at the time of research) Remate, the Biotopo Cerro Cahuí
and several comedores serving comida (daily 7am–4pm; US$3) is a 6.5-square-
rápida. The village is actually under- kilometre wildlife conservation area
going something of a cultural revival: comprising lakeshore, ponds and some
Itzá, the pre-Conquest Maya tongue, is of the best examples of undisturbed
being taught in the large school. tropical forest in Petén. There are hiking
Most visitors come this way to study trails (4km and 6km), a couple of small
or volunteer at one of the local language ruins and two thatched miradores on
schools. Rates are around US$150–175 the hill above the lake; pick up maps and
a week for twenty hours of one-to-one information at the gate where you sign
lessons, food and lodging with a local in. It’s recommended to visit the park
family – very few locals here speak English in the early morning as wildlife is most
so you can progress quite quickly. Good active and it is cooler at this time.
schools include: Eco Escuela de Español
(T 5940 1235, W www.ecoescuelaespanol Arrival and information
.org), a community-run, long-estab-
By bus and microbus El Remate lies just north
lished school in San Andrés; Escuela
(15min walk) of the Puente Ixlú (sometimes known
Nueva Juventud (T 5711 0040, W www as El Cruce) junction. Many buses/micros taking
.volunteerpeten.com), located in a the main road between Santa Elena and Melchor
70-hectare medicinal plant reserve, just de Menchos on the Belize border will drop you
outside San Andrés; Escuela Bio Itzá here. Alternatively, some transport heading north
232
of Puente Ixlú towards Tikal will pass through the decked balcony area. A particularly good deal for
village itself. The main bus stop is loacted in the solo travellers, as they charge per person, not per
village centre at the point where a minor road room. 
branches west (around the northern lakeshore) off Hotel Sun Breeze Lakeside, in the centre of the
the main Tikal road. However, you can ask your village T 7928 8044. This well-established family

guatemala
driver to drop you anywhere between the Puente business offers immaculate rooms with private
Ixlú junction and the bus stop. For accommodation bath and veranda and more economical basic
located on the northern lakeshore road you will rooms without bath, but with glorious lake views.
need to walk. The friendly owners offer a laundry service as well
Exchange There are no banks, but you can change as tours to local attractions.  –
dollars at Hotel Casa Don David in the village Casa Roja 500m down the road to Cerro Cahuí on
centre. the right T5173 2593. Simple, well-constructed,

Petén
Tourist information There is an information booth stick-and-thatch cabañas. They rent beds dorm-
on the left as you enter the village, but don’t bank style, and there is also one large two-bed room that
on it being open. Several hotels provide good tourist makes a particularly good deal for a couple. There’s
information and tours – try Hotel Sun Breeze and also an inexpensive vegetarian restaurant and
Restaurant/Hotel Gardenias for competitive prices kayaks for rent. 
to remote Maya sites such as Yaxhá. Casa de Doña Tonita 800m down the road
to Cerro Cahuí on the right T5701 7114. Four
Accommodation basic clapboard rooms, built high above the lake,
with great views, plus a six-bed dorm inside the
El Remate has plenty of budget deals and a few thatched-roof of the restaurant next door.
mid-range options, too. You’ll pay slightly more to Dorms  , rooms 
have lake views or access, but the setting is so Mon Ami 300m past Dona Tonita’s T 7928
idyllic it’s probably worth it. The following are listed 8413, E [email protected].
in the order you reach them from Puente Ixlú. Attractive rooms and bungalows with stylish,
Camping y Hotel El Paraiso One of the first homely touches, set among wonderful gardens
places you come to on entering the village, on the with views to the lake. There’s also a superb in-
right 50m off the main road. It’s a simple place house restaurant: try the chicken with lemon and
with rustic charm. Camping is available, and there herbs (Q35). Dorms  , rooms  –
are five basic rooms with bed and mosquito net.
Camping  , rooms  Eating
El Mirador del Duende High above the lake,
reached by a stairway cut into the cliff T5300 Most restaurants are on the main road, though
1896. An incredible collection of igloo-like, white- many hotels also have their own restaurants. Casa
washed stucco open bungalows/cabañas decorated Don David, in the village centre, features a specials
with Maya glyphs. Though the views are unparalled, board tailored towards the palates of their inter�
the rooms are basic and not especially secure. national guests. Otherwise, wherever you go, don’t
Great terrace overlooking the lake and cheap expect anything flashy.
vegetarian food. 
Posada El Eden T7928 8043. Four very basic Restaurants
rooms with fan and mosquito nets on the lakeside, Restaurant Cahuí Opposite Hostal Hermano Pedro.
set in pretty gardens. The two rooms with views This simple restaurant has a great lakeside setting
of the lake are preferable. Shared bathrooms are and offers economical food, including burgers or
clean.  spaghetti for Q20 and breakfast from Q16.
Hostal Sak-Luk T5494 5925, Etikalsakluk Restaurant Las Gardenias Back towards the
@hotmail.com. Interestingly eccentric place owned village centre, this roadside comedor serves good-
by an artist who has used the hostel as his canvas. value meals from Q35 plus sandwiches from Q12.
It is located on the hillside facing the lake and There is also a hotel and excellent information
enjoys great views. There is a decent restaurant office.
and a wood-burning stove for self catering. Restaurant El Muelle Past the football pitch,
Dorms  , doubles  – south of Restaurant Cahuí. The menu here is a bit
Hostal Hermano Pedro Just off the main road pricier – snacks (sandwiches, burgers and nachos
opposite the football pitch T 5719 7394. A peaceful Q15–25), mains (chicken, steak and fish Q45–70)
and relaxing house, with large homely rooms. – but you do get free use of the fantastic lakeside
Each has private bath and opens onto a communal swimming pool if you eat here.
233
 100-strong crowd of snap-happy
Moving on
tourists and their electronic digital
By bus A few local buses and a swarm of camera soundtrack. There are two
minibuses ply the route to Flores (30–45min). You official park museums, the Museo
may have more luck walking to the Puente Ixlú Lítico (daily 9am–4pm; US$1.50) and
guatemala

junction and flagging one down there. For Belize the Museo Tikal (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm,
(2hr), wait at Puente Ixlú for micros to Melchor de Sat & Sun 9am–4pm; US$1.50) that
Menchos (every 15min). Alternatively, any hotel can house some of the artefacts found in
book you a return shuttle.
the ruins, including jade jewellery,
ceramics and obsidian flints, as well as
Tikal numerous stelae.
Petén

Towering above the rainforest, TIKAL

is possibly the most renowned of all From the entrance to the
Maya ruins (daily 6am–6pm; US$20). Great Plaza
The site is dominated by five giant From the site map at the entrance, a
temples, steep-sided pyramids that path branches right to Complexes Q
rise up to 60m from the forest floor. In and R. The first pyramid, with a line of
addition, literally thousands of other eight stelae in front of it, is also known
structures, many half-strangled by as the Temple of Nine Mayan Gods,
giant roots and still hidden beneath where devotees can invoke the spirits
mounds of earth, demand exploration. with a simple ritual. Bearing left after
The site itself is deep in the jungle of Complex R, you approach the East
the Parque Nacional Tikal, and the Plaza; in its southeast corner stands an
forest is home to all sorts of wildlife, imposing temple, beneath which were
including howler and spider monkeys, found the remains of several severed
toucans and parakeets. The sheer scale heads, the victims of human sacrifice.
of the place is awe-inspiring, and its From here a few short steps bring you to
spirituality is spellbinding. Whether the Great Plaza, the heart of the ancient
you can spare as little as an hour or as city. Surrounded by four massive struc-
long as a week, it’s always worth the tures, this was the focus of ceremonial
trip. and religious activity at Tikal for around
a thousand years. Beneath the grass lie
What to see and do four layers of paving, the oldest of which
dates from about 150 BC. Temple 1 (or
The sheer scale of the ruins at Tikal Jaguar Temple), towering 44m above
can at first seem daunting. The central the plaza, is the hallmark of Tikal. The
area, with its five main temples, forms skeleton of ruler Hasaw Chan K’awil
by far the most impressive section; if (682–721 AD) was found in the tomb
you start to explore beyond this you at the temple’s core, surrounded by an
can wander seemingly forever in the assortment of jade, pearls, seashells and
maze of smaller, unrestored struc- stingray spines. There’s a reconstruc-
tures and complexes. Whatever you tion of the tomb (tumba 116) in the
do, Tikal is certain to exhaust you Museo Tikal. Standing opposite, like a
before you exhaust it. Rather too many squat version of Temple 1, is Temple 2,
visitors congregate to witness the known as the Temple of the Masks for
sunrise when the forest canopy bursts the two grotesque masks, now heavily
into a frenzy of sound and activity. eroded, that flank the central stairway.
However, as the park officially opens The North Acropolis, which fills the
at 6am, if you arrive independently whole north side of the Great Plaza, is
at this hour, you can witness much one of the most complex structures in
the same atmosphere, yet without the the entire Maya world. In true Maya
234
 The rise and fall of Tikal
900 BC First known settlement at Tikal.
500 BC Evidence of early stone buildings at the site.
c.10 AD Great Plaza begins to take shape and Tikal is an established major site

guatemala
with a large permanent population.
292 AD First recorded date on stelae at Tikal.
c.250 AD Continuous eruption of the Ilopango volcano causes huge devastation
and disrupts trade routes, possibly leading to the decline and abandonment of
El Mirador.
300 AD Tikal fills the subsequent power vacuum, allied with settlements at

Petén
Kaminaljuyú and Teotihuacán.
550 AD Tikal hits its peak of dominance, having conquered neighbouring city-states
and established an influence reaching as far as Copán in Honduras.
562 AD Caracol defeats Tikal. From the north, the city of Calakmul also emerges as
a formidable rival.
c.700 AD As Calakmul’s stranglehold begins to weaken, Tikal’s legendary leader
Lord Chocolate revives the city with a series of incredible victories deposing
sequential kings of Calakmul.
869 AD Building ceases at Tikal.
899 AD Tikal abandoned.
1848 AD Ruins of Tikal officially rediscovered by a government expedition.
1956 AD Project to excavate and restore the buildings started.
1984 AD Most major restoration work completed.

style it was built and rebuilt on top of From the West Plaza to
itself, and beneath the twelve temples Temple 4
that can be seen today are the remains Behind Temple 2 is the West Plaza,
of about a hundred other structures. dominated by a large Late Classic temple
on the north side, and scattered with
Central Acropolis and various altars and stelae. From here the
Temple 5 Tozzer Causeway leads west to Temple 3
On the other side of the plaza is the (55m), covered in jungle vegetation.
Central Acropolis, a maze of tiny Around the back of the temple is a huge
interconnecting rooms and stairways. palace complex, of which only the Bat
The buildings here are usually referred Palace has been restored. At the end
to as palaces rather than temples, of the Tozzer Causeway is Temple 4,
although their precise use remains a at 64m the tallest of all the Tikal struc-
mystery. Behind the acropolis is the tures, built in 741 AD. Twin ladders, one
palace reservoir, which was fed with for the ascent, the other for the descent,
rainwater by a series of channels from are attached to the sides of the temple.
all over the city.
Further behind the Central Acropolis Mundo Perdido, Plaza of
is the 58-metre-high Temple 5. Some the Seven Temples and
say you haven’t really visited Tikal Temple of the Inscriptions
unless you’ve climbed the ladder at the To the south of the Central Acropolis,
side of Temple 5. You may not have reached by a trail from Temple 3, you’ll
realized that you suffered from vertigo find the Plaza of the Seven Temples,
until you try this; the view from the top which forms part of a complex dating
is incomparable though.
235
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237
 back to before Christ. There’s an toilets, showers and campfire facilities. There
unusual triple ball court on the north are also thatched shelters from which to hang
side of the plaza, and to the east is the hammocks. 
Jaguar Inn T 7783 3647, E contact@jaguartikal
unexcavated South Acropolis. To the
.com. The most economical of Tikal's hotels.
west, the Mundo Perdido, or Lost
guatemala

Smart bungalows with bathroom, fan and porch

World, is another magical and very hammock. You can also camp in the pretty garden.
distinct section of the site with its own Camping  , bungalows 
atmosphere and architecture. The main
feature is the Great Pyramid, a 32- Eating
metre-high structure whose surface
hides four earlier versions, the first Comedores Offering a limited menu of traditional
Petén

dating from 500 BC. After accidents on Guatemalan specialities – eggs, beans, grilled
meat and chicken (from Q25). For a more extensive
the steep stone staircase, it is no longer
menu, there’s a decent restaurant at the Jaguar Inn
possible to climb this pyramid. Finally, (mains from Q40). Cold soft drinks and snacks are
there’s the Temple of the Inscriptions, sold around the ruins by vendors.
reached along the Méndez Causeway.
The temple (only discovered in 1951) is Around Tikal
about 1km from the plaza. It’s famous
Dotted throughout the Petén jungle are
for its twelve-metre roof comb, at the
literally thousands of Maya ruins. With
back of which is a huge but rather faint
tourism booming in the region many of
hieroglyphic text.
these are becoming more accessible via
a selection of tours offered by Flores/El
Arrival and information Remate-based operators. To see these
Arrival It’s easy to get to Tikal from Flores and El more remote sites independently you
Remate – see p.230 and p.232 for details. It should will need plenty of time to account
be possible to hitch a ride with one of the many for sporadic transport schedules. In
shuttles, even if you don’t have a pre-booked ticket. addition, some larger, still unexcavated
Guides (US$60 for a 4hr tour). It is a worthwhile sites require a local guide simply to
investment if you can afford it (get a group navigate the ruins themselves.
together). Ask at the ticket booth for services; many
guides speak excellent English. Uaxactún
Visitors’ centre Before the ticket booth and parking
Twenty-three kilometres north of Tikal,
lot is a large visitors’ centre. It houses toilets,
souvenir stalls, an over-priced restaurant, a post
strung out by the side of a disused
office, a museum and, of greatest interest, a scale airstrip, are the village and ruins of
model of the site (a good place to orient yourself and Uaxactún (pronounced “Wash-ak-
overhear knowledgeable private guides). toon”). The overall impact of the place
may be a little disappointing after the
Accommodation grandeur of Tikal, but you’ll probably
have the site to yourself. The most inter-
There are three hotels at the ruins, all of them fairly esting buildings are in Group E, east
expensive and not especially good value. There of the airstrip, where three low recon-
are good camping facilities, but most backpackers structed temples, built side-by-side, are
choose to visit Tikal as a day-trip. If you do decide arranged to function as an observatory.
to stay overnight, if you buy your park entrance
Viewed from the top of a fourth temple,
ticket after 3pm, it will be valid for the following
the sun rises behind the north temple
day as well. For food, if arriving before 9am, you
should bring your own snacks and plenty of water.
on the longest day of the year and
The best-value places for lunch are the small behind the southern one on the shortest
comedores opposite the visitor’s centre. day. On the other side of the airstrip is
Camping Between the parking lot and the Group A, a series of larger temples and
comedores, a well-maintained campground has residential compounds, some of them
238
reconstructed, a ball court and some and stops with a local village family
impressive stelae. for lunch (US$35).
If you end up staying overnight in
Uaxactún you have two options: the El Zotz
welcoming Campamento Ecológico El Thirty kilometres west of Uaxactún,

guatemala
Chiclero (T &F 7926 1095; camping  , along a rough track passable by 4WD, is
rooms  ) offers clean rooms without El Zotz, a large Maya site set in its own
bath, or you can camp or sling up a nature reserve. Totally unrestored and
hammock. Owner Antonio Baldizón smothered by vegetation, El Zotz has
also organizes 4WD trips, and his wife been systematically looted, although
Neria prepares excellent food. Other- there are guards on duty all year. Zotz

Petén
wise, Aldana’s is friendly but very basic means “bat” in Maya and each evening
with wooden rooms and camping at dusk you’ll see tens, perhaps hundreds
(both  ). of thousands of bats of several species
A bus leaves Flores at 1pm and passes emerge from a cave near the campsite
through Tikal en route to Uaxactún. The – one of the most remarkable natural
return bus leaves Uaxactún at 7am, so if sights in Petén. From the tops of El
you want to explore the site independ- Zotz’s jungle-shrouded temples it’s also
ently you’ll need to stay two nights possible to see the roof-combs of Tikal.
(otherwise arrange a shuttle – cheapest To get there you can rent vehicles,
done from El Remate). supplies and equipment in Uaxactún, or
take a three-day tour from Flores (ask
Yax-há
at Los Amigos to form a group). The
Midway between El Remate and
tour involves approximately six hours
Melchor de Menchos, some 12km
of walking per day, two nights camping
off the highway, is the restored site
in the jungle and finishes at the ruins of
of Yaxhá (W www.visityaxha.com;
Tikal.
US$10). The site is seldom visited, but
is very well managed with an impres-
sive collection of restored/recon- El Perú
structed temples and palaces. Yaxhá’s It’s possible to reach the Maya ruins of
greatest attraction is its stunning El Perú independently but you’ll need a
location on the northern shores of the tent, a good grasp of Spanish and plenty
tranquil Yaxhá Lagoon (no doubt the of initiative. A chicken bus leaves Santa
site was originally chosen with this in Elena’s Terminal Vieja at 10am for Paso
mind). The best time to visit is to watch Caballos (4hr), from where you can
the sunset over the lake from the top hike or take a boat to the site. The ruins
of the Temple of the Red Hands. You are unexcavated and administered by
ought to be lucky enough to see plenty the army, which has a base here. Bring
of monkeys at this time too. plenty of food, and you’ll probably be
There is no public transport to the able to eat with the soldiers at their
park entrance. However, on the main camp. It’s best to take a guide to explore
road, in the village of La Maquina, the site, as the ruins are completely
it should be possible to negotiate a isolated. Ask around in Paso Caballos.
price for a pickup (approx US$10).
Ask at the tienda opposite the school. El Mirador
Alternatively, some El Remate hotels Only accessible on foot or by mule,
arrange return transportation, or you beyond the village of Carmelita, is the
can take the excellent tour with Cafe colossal Preclassic site of El Mirador.
Yaxhá in Flores, which also takes in El Mirador is perhaps the most exotic
the remote nearby site of La Blanca and mysterious of all Petén’s Maya sites.
239
 Still buried in the forest, this massive if you’re not stopping, if you’re travel-
city matches Tikal’s scale, and may even ling by road from Cobán to Flores,
surpass it. Rediscovered in 1926, it dates you’ll pass through Sayaxché and find
from an earlier period than Tikal, and your bus boarding a ferry to shuttle
was almost certainly the first great city across the river.
guatemala

in the Maya world.

The core of the site covers some sixteen What to see and do
square kilometres, stretching between
two massive pyramids that face each The Maya sites of Ceibal, Aguateca
other across the forest. The area around and Dos Pilas are seldom visited,
El Mirador is riddled with smaller Maya and at the time of research had only
Petén

sites, and as you look out across the limited administration and facilities.
forest from the top of either of the main Access is also somewhat complicated
temples you can see others rising above by the isolated locations of these sites.
the canopy on all sides – including the However, whether you choose to arrive
giant Calakmul in Mexico. Although by boat or by trekking, the journey
much of the site is still buried, archae- through the jungle gives these ruins a
ologists are currently excavating and special “Heart of Darkness” aura. The
have already uncovered some fantastic town of Sayaxché makes a handy base
Maya artwork inside some temples. from which to organise excursions. Ask
It is likely that in the coming decades for advice at the friendly Restaurant
El Mirador will be opened up to mass Yaxkin.
tourism – there’s even talk of a monorail
through the jungle. Ceibal
For the time being, however, getting to The most accessible and impressive
of the sites near Sayaxché is Ceibal,
El Mirador is a substantial undertaking,
reachable either by land or river. It’s
with most backpackers opting to take
easy enough to make it there and back
a five-day tour from Flores (although
in an afternoon by boat; haggle with
during the rainy season this may not
the boatmen at the waterfront and
be possible). The tour involves up to
you can expect to pay around US$50
eight hours of arduous jungle trekking
(for up to six people). The boat trip
per day. You’ll need plenty of repellent
is followed by a short walk through
(and alcohol) to kill off the mosies, ticks
towering rainforest. By road, Ceibal is
and other nasties. Tours provide horses/
just 17km from Sayaxché. Any trans-
mules to carry your food and equip-
port heading south out of town passes
ment (which should also be provided).
El Paraiso from where an 8km track
Tour prices start at US$160 per person
leads to the site through the jungle.
for a group of six; ask at Los Amigos in Alternatively hire a pick-up for the
Flores to get a group together. full journey for $16 (ask at Restaurant
Yaxkin, see p.242).
Sayaxché There is currently no entrance fee;
The small town of SAYAXCHÉ, on although at the time of writing local
the banks of the Río Pasión, is a handy authorities were hoping to develop
base for visiting the nearby archeolog- facilities at the site. You can camp, but
ical sites of Ceibal, Aguateca and Dos there are currently no toilets or drinking
Pilas. The complex network of rivers water.
and swamps that cuts through the Surrounded by forest and shaded by
surrounding area has been an impor- huge ceiba trees, the ruins are a mixture
tant trade route since Maya times and of cleared open plazas and untamed
there are several ruins in the area. Even jungle. Though many of the largest
240
temples lie buried under mounds, Ceibal monkeys) and there are a number of
does have some outstanding and well- Maya ruins. Aguateca, perched on
preserved carving: the two main plazas a high outcrop at the southern tip of
are dotted with lovely stelae, centred the lake, is the furthest away from
around two low platforms. During the Sayaxché but the most accessible, as a

guatemala
Classic period Ceibal was unimportant, beautiful two- to three-hour boat-ride
but it grew rapidly between 830 and ($50) can get you to within twenty
930 AD, apparently after falling under minutes’ walk of the ruins. Alterna-
the control of colonists from what is tively you can head for the village of
now Mexico. This is evident in the Nacimientos (no facilities apart from
fantastic Mexican-influenced carving tiendas) from where it’s a short walk to

Petén
displayed at Ceibal. the site; a micro leaves Sayaxché at 2pm
directly to Nacimientos, or from the
Lago de Petexbatún: highway junction of Las Pozas, south
Aguateca and Dos Pilas of Sayaxché, there are several chicken
To the south of Sayaxché is Lago de buses.
Petexbatún, a spectacular expanse Extensive restoration work is still
of water ringed by dense forest and ongoing at this intriguing site, which
containing plentiful supplies of snook, is split in two by a natural chasm. The
bass, alligator and freshwater turtle. atmosphere is magical, surrounded by
The shores of the lake abound with dense tropical forest and with superb
birdlife and animals (including howler views of the lake from two miradores.

into Mexico
There are a number of possible routes into Mexico from Petén. The crossing via
Bethel/La Técnica to Frontera Corozal is by far the most popular, due to much
better public transport links. San Juan Travel in Flores (see p.238) offers a daily
5am shuttle ($30) directly to Palenque, the target for many backpackers. To do this
route independently, you’ll need to start early. There’s a 5am bus from the main
Santa Elena terminal to La Técnica (Q30). After four hours you reach the outskirts of
Bethel, where you need to get your passport stamped (the bus should wait for you).
Unfortunately this seems to be a bit of a sticky migración office for unofficial exit
(and entry) taxes. Spanish may help you to talk your way around the officials and
you can try asking for a receipt. Annoyingly, the easier option is to keep back a few
dollars worth of quetzales to ease your passage out of Guatemala.
From Bethel you can arrange a lancha for the half-hour trip up the Río Usumacinta
to Frontera Corozal. The lancha will cost Q200, so try to get a group together.
A cheaper, but more arduous, option is to continue by bus (the same one) for
another hour to La Técnica. Here regular lanchas zip across the river taking all of
five minutes (Q15/M$20). Once on Mexican soil taxi drivers will take you to the
minibus station and immigration office (no fare, they have a deal with the minibus
companies!)
The northern frontera, reached from El Naranjo, is not recommended: it is a key
trade route for narcotics.
There is also a border post at Pipiles, which can be reached by river from
Sayaxché. There are however, no scheduled boat services. Ask at Yaxkin Chel, in
Sayaxché, about the possibility of taking kayaks downstream. En route there are
Maya communities who work in cooperatives to make handicrafts, promising for an
interesting trip. From Pipiles you can arrange onward boat transport to the Mexican
town of Benemerito, where there are basic hotels, restaurants and an immigration
post. Buses leave Benemerito for Palenque (4hr) several times a day.

241
 Currently there’s no entrance charge, as
the site is still not administered.
Accommodation
Within easy reach of Nacimientos Hotel La Pasión T4056 5044. Occupying the
village is Dos Pilas, where restora- upper floors of this red-brick building (downstairs
tion is ongoing, buried in jungle west is a handy fried chicken takeaway), just 50m up
guatemala

of the lake. Dos Pilas was the centre of from the dock. Rooms are spacious and surpris-
a formidable empire in the early part ingly comfortable for the price. Each has cable TV,
of the eighth century, with a popula- bathroom, fan and simple furnishings. Top-floor
rooms, set back from the road, are best. There is
tion of around ten thousand. Around
also free coffee in the pleasant lounge area. 
the central plaza are some tremendous Yaxkin Chel Paraiso In Barrio Esperanza, six
stelae, altars and four short hieroglyphic
Petén

blocks up and five across (southeast) from the dock

stairways decorated with glyphs and T4053 3484. Seven bungalows set in fantastic
figures. To get to Dos Pilas from the gardens, where the family grow cocoa, pepper and
lakeshore you have to trek 12km on foot tropical flowers among other things. It's all fairly
(or by horse). rustic, but the restaurant serves good food, and
owner “Chendo” can arrange tours or transportation
to help you explore the local area. 
Arrival and Information
By boat/bus All transport arriving in Sayaxché Eating
will end up at the dock (on either bank of the Río
Pasión). From Flores you’ll arrive on the north El Botanero On the second-left street after the
bank and will need to catch a lancha (Q2) to the dock. Surprisingly stylish restaurant where they
other side, where the bulk of Sayaxché stretches serve a selection of seasonal vegetables with the
uphill and westwards along the riverbank. From main plates of chicken (Q35), fish (Q70) and shrimp
the dock, the plaza is three blocks up and one to (Q90). There are also reasonably-priced cocktails
the left, where there is an ATM and an internet (Q15)
cafe. Restaurant Yaxkin One block up from the dock,
Tourist information There is no official tourist on the left (closes 8pm). Simple menu of mostly
information but the friendly owner at Restaurant snack food. Sandwich and fries Q25. Very friendly
Yaxkin (one block up from the dock, on the left), with tourist information and smiling locals.
offers excellent free advice and has a big map of
the area painted on the wall. Better still, if you’re Moving on
staying for a few days, head to the hotel Yaxkin
Chel, where Don Rosendo Giron is a considerable By boat to: Mexico (see box, p.241).
authority on the area. By bus/micro to: Cobán (10am & 3pm;
4hr 30min); Flores (every 20min; 2hr); Raxrujá
(every 20min; 2hr).

242
 El Salvador

Greece
highlights

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DAILY BUDGET Basic US$20/ POPULATION 6.9 million

rough costs

fact file

occasional treat US$30 AREA 21,040 sq km

DRINK Coffee US$0.30, Pilsener beer LANGUAGE Spanish
US$1 CAPITAL San Salvador
FOOD Pupusa US$0.35 (population: 1,570,000)
HAMMOCK/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CURRENCY US dollar (US$)
US$3/US$8/US$15 INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
TRAVEL San Salvador–Santa Ana by t503
bus (63km): 1hr 15min; US$0.80. TIME ZONE GMT –6hr

243
 Introduction
The smallest and most densely populated country in Central
America, El Salvador is also the region’s least visited nation.
el salvador

Known less for its world-class surf and stunning forest reserves
than the vicious civil war it suffered through in the 1980s and
gang violence that occurred in the 1990s, the country has
long struggled to gain tourists’ trust. Those that do make it
here, however, are well rewarded by the hospitality of its
Introduction

proud inhabitants and the sheer physical beauty of the place.

Almost every journey in El Salvador yields photogenic vistas:
majestic cones of towering volcanoes, lush lowlands sweeping
up through fertile hills, coffee plantations, rugged mountain
chains – you’ll see them all.
Pivotal San Salvador is one of Central their base is the spectacle of the deep
America’s nicest cities, boasting an blue crater lake of Coatepeque; for
emerging bohemian scene and student- gastronomes, the Ruta de las Flores
heavy nightlife. Within easy reach is features Juayúa’s famous food festival,
the glorious sweep of the Pacific coast, as well as other charming towns.
including surfers’ favourite Costa The north, though rough and wild,
Balsámo, dark beauties like El Espino, hosts the still unspoilt colonial gem of
and white-sand fishing communi- Suchitoto, above the glorious crater lake
ties like Los Cabanos. Some of these of Suchitlán, while La Palma is famous
beaches offer true seclusion, while for its naïf crafts, producing wooden
others receive the best waves in all of handicrafts, pottery and hammocks.
Central America.
Further east are the undervisited CHRONOLOGY
mangrove swamps of the Bahía de Pre-8000 BC Paleo-Indian cave-dwellers around
Jiquilisco and the idyllic islands of the Coritho are the first known inhabitants.
Golfo de Fonseca, while further inland Pre-1200 BC Maya arrive from Guatamala.
the small city of San Vicente gives 900 AD Maya culture mysteriously collapses.
access to delightful artistic villages like 900–1400 AD Waves of Nahuat-speaking settlers,
floral Alegría and larger San Miguel, later dubbed “Pipils”, migrate from Mexico, estab-
lishing seats of power at Cihuatán, Tehuacán and
which hosts one of the biggest carnivals
Cuscatlán.
in Central America. The Ruta de la 1522 Conquistador Andrés Niño lands on Isla de
Paz climbs poor and rugged Morazán Meanguera.
towards the moving war museum at 1524 Pedro de Alvarado crosses the Río Paz to
Perquín and the town of El Mozote, conquer the area; he names the region
the site of one of the civil war’s worst “El Salvador”.
atrocities – unmissable for anyone inter- 1540 The Spanish secure dominion over the region
ested in El Salvador’s recent history. under the Captaincy General of Guatemala.
In the west, the laid-back grandeur of 1600–1800 Hacienda feudalism creates a rich
ruling elite and indentured labour force.
Santa Ana lies between the exquisite
1811 Father José Delgado leads an unsuccessful
cloudforests of Montecristo and El revolution against the Spanish.
Imposible. For climbers, the nearby 1821 Central American provinces, including El
volcanic peaks of Izalco and Cerro Salvador, break with Spain, but are annexed
Verde provide good hiking, while at by Mexico.
244
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Introduction el salvador

245
 1823 Central American countries win independence 1992 Peace accords finally signed, presided over
from Mexico under Salvadoreño Manuel José Arce; by the UN and the Catholic Church.
Federal Republic of Central America is created. 2001 US dollar replaces the colón. Two earthquakes
1833 Anastasio Aquino leads massive, but ultimately kill over 1000 people and destroy infrastructure.
unsuccessful, indigenous uprising. 2004 Tony Saca gains presidency for ARENA party,
1841 El Salvador declares independence, withdraws though FMLN is tipped to win.
el salvador

from Federal Republic; Republic is dissolved. 2005 CA-4 free-trade agreement signed between El
1840–1931 Coffee becomes main export crop; Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua.
boom is controlled domestically, via oligarchic land- 2008 FMLN candidate Mauricio Funes is polled as
owners. Private interests dominate government. the favourite to win 2009 presidentical election, the
1927 Liberal Pío Romero Bosque is elected, takes first transfer of power under democratic plurality.
steps to dismantle oligarchies.
Basics

1929 Economy collapses in response to Wall Street

crash; Liberal plans for democracy derailed.

Basics
1931 General Maximiliano Martínez seizes power in
coup, starting 50 years of military rule.
1932 Communist-led rebellion against military
and landowners sees thousands assassinated.
Government response is a week-long massacre,
“La Matanza”. ARRIVAL
1932–1980 Military and oligarchies jointly rule Visitors flying to El Salvador will
country.
arrive at Comalapa International
1969 El Salvador attacks Honduras in the six-day
Airport (SAL), about 50km outside
“Soccer War”.
1972 José Napoleon Duarte and Christian San Salvador. The main hub for Grupo
Democratic Party win elections, advocating reform; TACA (w www.taca.com), it’s quite
he is immediately deposed and exiled by the military. busy, with daily flights from numerous
1977 As many as 300 unarmed civilians shot in front North American cities (principally
of world media while protesting in San Salvador. Dallas, Houston, LA, Miami, New York
1980 Leftist opposition parties and guerrilla groups and Mexico City) as well as the rest of
join forces to form the FMLN–FDR, while right-wing Central America, South America, and
death squads wage terror campaigns. Archbishop
the Caribbean. Iberia (w www.iberia
Oscar Romero is assassinated; full-scale civil war
.com) has also recently started a direct
breaks out.
1981 Ronald Reagan pumps US aid into the country route from Madrid. Two more inter-
to stem “spread of Communism”, despite links national airports are in the works,
between government and death squads. Salva- including one near La Unión.
doreño battalion massacres the village of Mozote You can enter El Salvador by land
(see p.294) in a show of force. from Guatemala and Honduras (see
1984 Duarte “elected” first civilian president box opposite, for routes). Almost
since 1932. all international buses arrive in San
1989 Fighting intensifies after FMLN’s request to Salvador, either at the Puerto Bus
delay elections is refused; San Salvador is occupied,
terminal on Alameda Juan Pablo II
and six Jesuit priests assassinated.

When to Visit
The dry season (Nov–March) is the best time to visit El Salvador: northeasterly
winds make for less humid air, more accessible dirt roads, sandier beaches and
less daunting waves. Humidity builds throughout late March and April into the wet
season (May–Oct), which is fed by Pacific low-pressure systems and sees clear
mornings cloud over to late afternoon and overnight downpours. This is the season
for big waves, flowering orchids and spectacular lightning storms, but travel can be
difficult and flooding and hurricanes are not unknown. Temperatures are always
regulated by altitude.

246
 land routes to El Salvador
The main border crossings with Honduras are in the east at El Amatillo (see
p.297), convenient for connections to Tegucigalpa, and at El Poy (see p.356) in the
northwest.

el salvador
The main border with Guatemala is at La Hachadura (see p.308) in the southwest,
best for the Pacific beaches and used by international buses from Mexico. Another
Guatemala crossing is at Las Chinamas (see p.314), just outside Ahuachapán, with
regular connections to Guatemala City. The crossing at Anguiatú (see p.322), in the
north near Metapán, is most convenient for Esquipulas. A smaller crossing at San
Cristóbal (see p.319) is close to the city of Santa Ana.

Basics
or the Tica Bus terminal at the start Greece, Malaysia, Mexico, Portugal,
of Calle Concepción. Many services Singapore and the US. See w www
from Guatemala also stop on Calle 27a .elsalvador.org for details.
Poniente in Santa Ana, and chicken
buses run from border crossings to Getting around
nearby towns in the daylight hours. El Salvador’s bus network is without
The only international boat runs from doubt the best way to travel. The size
the Honduran and Nicaraguan islands of the country, and the efficient road
in the Golfa de Fonseca to La Unión (see layout around the Carretera Interameri-
p.283). You must go through customs cana, mean that budget travellers can
before travelling to the islands. get from one point to another within
the country in less than a day.
visas
Visas for El Salvador are not currently By bus
required for citizens of the US,
Canada, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Buses are subsidized and extremely
Chile, Israel, New Zealand, Paraguay, cheap: a trip from San Salvador to Santa
Singapore, South Africa, most European Ana (1hr 15min) costs just US$0.80.
countries, all Central American nations Centrally placed San Salvador, with its
and many Caribbean islands; citizens of three busy bus terminals (see p.264), is
other countries need authorization from the hub of all bus travel in the country.
the immigration authorities. Under the All other towns of any significant size
CA-4 agreement (see p.48), there is have at least one bus terminal; in smaller
now one tourist card for El Salvador, urbanizations the corner of a block
Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua; near the central square gets stacked up
this is issued on entry – make sure you with buses picking up or dropping off.
get a 90-day allowance rather than a Services run in daylight hours, with rare
30-day one. Stays can be extended once exceptions going just after dusk, so plan
by contacting the Dirección General de your overnight stops carefully.
Migración y Extranjería, in the Galerias All routes are covered by the same
Escalón, Paseo Gen Escalón (t 2202- “chicken buses” you’ll see in other
9650), in San Salvador, though you must Central American countries – recycled
be sponsored by a CA-4 national. Alter- and decorated US school buses.
natively, you can pass out of the entire Occasionally you’ll be issued a ticket,
CA-4 zone and back in again – Belize which will be inspected, so keep hold
is probably your best option. A US$10 of it. Otherwise, always have change
border entry fee is levied at the airport, ready for your fare, as commission may
but only for nationals of Canada, China, be taken to change a note; you pay the
247
 driver if there is a turnstyle, and the guy Mamá y Papá (see p.314) to help you
yelling instructions and jumping on and out. In terms of driving, look out for
off the bus if not. Most drivers will stop abrupt coned-off lanes on the motorway
if hailed, and you can bang on the side – these are police stops, where you
of the bus or whistle to get off mid-trip. will be asked to present your passport,
el salvador

Big bags go in a heap at the back, and driving licence and car documents.
you’d be wise to follow them – but don’t If you need assistance, filling stations
assume that other passengers are thieves. and mechanics are widespread along
There are only three routes in the whole the road. At night, cows often wander
country served by the marginally more onto main roads, including the Inter�
comfortable coach-style buses; these go americana, so keep the speed down.
Basics

to and from San Miguel, Santa Rosa de Also, dirt roads can become impass-
Lima and La Unión, cost US$2–2.50 and able during the rainy season, even with
knock about an hour off the standard a 4WD; ask locally about conditions
journey. before you set off. Armed hold-ups of
In terms of safety, hijackings are private cars are very rare now, but keep
rare, but when they do occur, hold-ups US$20 or so aside just in case, and offer
generally take the form of an enforced no resistance. It’s good to rent an old-
collection; US$10 should suffice, as long looking car, so as not to draw attention
as you’re not flashing expensive stuff to yourself. In cities, thefts of cars, or
around. Maverick overtaking manoeu- items left in them, do occur, so it’s wise
vres are a more common peril, and to leave your car in a guarded or locked
particularly bad in city microbuses car park overnight.
– only take these if no chicken buses are Hitching is common off the highways.
around. This said, hitching carries obvious risks,
and we don’t recommend it. If you
By car do hitch, it’s polite to offer payment
– about the same as the bus fare – for
Licensed taxis in El Salvador are yellow the journey.
and black. They can be hailed or found
in large towns and cities around the By bike
main squares, shopping centres or bus
stations. There are no meters, so fares Bikes offer great freedom in rural areas,
should be agreed before you set off. and you can take them on buses if you
Expect to pay US$4–6 for most trips start to tire. Unfortunately, there are no
within San Salvador and US$3–5 in formal rental places, but it is possible to
other cities, but you can bargain a bit do deals with locals and tour operators.
if you are polite. As in most countries, Otherwise, a cheap mountain bike
avoid people offering lifts in other types shouldn’t cost more than US$30 to buy
of car. from a general store in any of the bigger
It can be helpful to have a car if you towns.
want to explore some of the country’s
more remote areas, especially stretches By boat
of the Pacific coast (see box, p.272).
Western companies rent at Western Although only the islands of the Golfo
prices; local garages often charge a de Fonseca and the islands of the Bahia
quarter of those rates (don’t pay more de Jiquilísco require boat access, there
than US$20). Check the yellow pages are plenty of other opportunities to get
in San Salvador for rental agencies, or out on the water. Scheduled services
ask Lena at Ximena’s Guest House (see are always much cheaper (US$1–5), but
p.265) or Manolo at Tacuba’s Hostel lancha owners and fishermen need little
248
 addresses in el salvador
Navigating Salvadoreño cities is initially confusing but ultimately logical. As
elsewhere, most cities are organized on the grid plan: streets running north–south
are avenidas, those running east–west are calles. The main avenida and calle will

el salvador
have individual names (along with a few of the others) and the heart of any city is
at their intersection – usually, though not always, at the Parque Central. North or
south of this intersection avenidas are Norte (Nte) or Sur, while east or west calles
are Oriente (Ote) or Poniente (Pte). Avenidas lying to the east of the main avenida
are numbered evenly, increasing the further you go out; west of the avenida the
numbers are odd. Similarly, calles have even numbers south of the main calle and
odd numbers north. Addresses can be given either as the street name/number,

Basics
followed by the building number, or as the intersection of two streets. So: “C 12
Pte #2330, Col Flor Blanca” is no. 2330, Calle 12 Poniente in the district (colonia) of
Flor Blanca, while “10a Av Sur y C 3 Pte” is the intersection of 10a Avenida Sur and
Calle 3 Poniente.

persuasion to provide private lifts and parks and several towns and beaches.
tours of the country’s lakes and mangrove Salvadoreños with spare land may be
swamps. This is usually done as a set willing to let you pitch a tent – offer
fee for the boat (usually about US$30, around US$3. Hammock-slinging is
depending on duration), so getting into a possible on some beaches (though
sizeable group reduces the cost. steer clear of the more sketchy beaches
around La Libertad, for safety reasons)
Accommodation and at some beach hotels (also for about
El Salvador’s accommodation industry US$3). The hotels will usually put your
– long stagnant – is finally beginning bag somewhere safe, if you ask.
to wake up to the traveller market: Accommodation fills up around
new places are appearing, and very few Santa Semana (the week before Easter),
destinations have nowhere at all to stay. Christmas, the Fiestas Agostinas (the
However, the number of hostels with last week of July and first week of Aug)
dorm rooms is still less than ten nation- and/or at the time of local festivals;
wide, with none in the east at all, so it’s at these times it’s worth reserving in
best to budget for cheap hotels. Unfor- advance.
tunately, thanks to dollarization, prices
are pretty high: in San Salvador a clean, Food and drink
secure, double room comes to at least Eating well in El Salvador is far more
US$20 (4 ), often more, while outside about fresh ingredients than refined
the capital you can expect to pay at least cooking. The main meal of the day is
US$10–15, or US$20–25 for a/c (2 –4 ). lunch, which most local people eat in
Lots of hotels rent multi-bed rooms a comedor, where típicos (local dishes
(intended for Salvadoran families), of meat or fish, rice, vegetable or salad)
where you can pack in like sardines and coffee go for around US$2–3, or a
– these can be a good way to cut costs pupusería, where you can get pupusas
if you’re with a group. Discounts on (small tortillas served piping hot
longer stays are also often available. and filled with cheese (queso), beans
Rooms vary within an establishment, so (frijoles), pork crackling (chicharrón), or
look around. Hot water is a rare treat. all three), for around US$0.35. Pupusas
Camping possibilities are also are normally made from cornmeal, and
expanding countrywide, with campsites are served with hot sauce, tomato juice
now available at most lakes, national and/or curtido, a jar of pickled cabbage,
249
 beetroot and carrots. Many comedores fruits make delicious juices. Jugos are
serve evening pupusas, though most pure juices – most commonly orange,
close early, between 7 and 8pm. The papaya, pineapple and melon – mixed
cleanliness and quality of establish- with ice. Licuados (sometimes called
ments vary, but are rarely poisonous; batidos) blend juice with sugar, ice and
el salvador

if doubtful, choose one that’s busy and sometimes milk, while frescos are fruit-
cooks unfrozen meat. based sweet drinks made up in bulk and
A standard breakfast is composed of served with lunch or dinner. Unless you
frijoles, queso and huevos (eggs, either ask otherwise, sugar will be added to
fried or scrambled) along with coffee. jugos and licuados. Horchata is a dense
This combination is tasty and energy- milk drink with a base of rice, sweetened
Basics

packed, which is lucky, as it is generally with sugar and cinnamon.

the only option. Although San Salva- The usual brands of soft drinks are
dor’s Western suburbs are the only place available. Water is safe to drink in San
to find the full gamut of international Salvador only; elsewhere check that the
cuisine, most towns have a handful water and ice used in drinks is purified.
of restaurants. Chinese, Italian and Bottled mineral water and bags of
Tex-Mex, and Argentine meat-grilling pure spring water are available almost
restaurants are the most widespread, everywhere, while most hotels provide
though their authenticity varies. drinking water. El Salvador produces
Vegetarians will find dedicated restau- five good beers – the most important
rants only in the biggest cities, and decision you will have to make is
should be prepared to eat a lot of beans between Pilsener and Golden Light. True
and cheese. There are also US-style fast- lager followers will side for the excellent
food chains – whose pricing hilariously and textured former. Also well worth
situates them as upmarket restaurants trying are Regia and the crisp Bahía; the
– throughout the country. Fried chicken costliest and worst is Suprema. Aguar-
is the plat du jour, and if you must have diente is a sugar cane-based liquor,
it, the Pollo Campero chain is best. produced under government control and
In addition to pupusas, other Salva- sold through outlets called expendios;
doreño specialities include mariscada Tic-Tac is a favourite label.
(huge bowls filled with fish and crusta-
ceans in a creamy soup), tamales (meat CULTURE AND
or chicken wrapped in maize dough and
ETIQUETTE
boiled in a leaf), ceviche (raw, marinated
fish) and sopa de frijoles (black or red Salvadoreños are generally confident,
bean soup). On the coast, conchas principled, hard-working and keen to
(cockles or any other shellfish) are served laugh; they will often vie to help travel-
raw with lemon juice, tomato, coriander lers. This said, not many Westerners
and Worcestershire sauce. Try the ostras pass through the country, especially
(oysters), especially in popular eateries rural areas, so you may be regarded as
by the sea; they are fresher here than in something of an oddity, and children
most Western restaurants. especially may stare and touch your
hair. Over eighty percent of the popula-
Drink tion is Catholic, though Evangelism is
on the rise.
Local coffee is very good, usually drunk You should be confident and polite:
black and strong at breakfast and mid- say “Buenos” (morning) or “Buenas”
afternoon with tamales. In small villages (evening) when you catch someone’s
it will be boiled up with sugar cane eye or enter a room, shake hands when
and called lista. El Salvador’s tropical meeting and do not offend by being
250
 Salvadoran expressions and phrases
The Salvadoran slang, called Caliche, is formed from Nahuat and English
roots. While you may just hear it spoken by others, particularly kids and
campesinos, usage will never fail to raise a smile.

el salvador
ahuevo/cabal (that’s) right huevon/huevonazo/huevonada
bayunco rowdy, immature, crazy lazy/very lazy/lazy thing
birria/polarizado beer mara gang or group of friends
brosa/chero/chera friend/friend (m)/ marero gang member
friend (f) paloma a penis, or something cool
cachimbo/vergo loads of ... palomísima/vergonísimo very cool

Basics
Ceviche It’s alright. Puchica Oh my gosh!
chavo/chava boy/girl (unformal) salu goodbye
chele a “white” person with blond hair talega drunk
chivo/chivisimo cool/very cool vergon cool or amazing (from
chucho/chucha male dog/female dog “verga”, penis)
chuco/chuca dirty yucca (literally, a root plant)
cora a quarter of a dollar something difficult
guanaco a person from El Salvador

paranoid about your safety or belong- year, the first (the clausura) runs every
ings. Women should not react to macho weekend from February to mid-May,
male posturing, as this is seen as flirta- the second (called apertura) goes from
tious; understand that if you dress to be September to mid-December; both are
noticed, you will be. Remember to wear followed by play-offs and finals. The big
sleeves and trousers and to remove hats teams of the last few years are FAS from
when entering a church (women should Santa Ana, Firpo from Usulutàn and
cover their heads). Always ask permis- Metapán. The quality of football is mixed
sion before taking photos in indigenous but the crowds are awesome; don’t bring
areas, though you will generally find lots anything valuable, and always sit with
of eager posers. and cheer for the home side. See w www
Tipping at restaurants is not expected .laprensagrafica.com/futbol for fixtures
at the cheaper places, and may not and information. Great attention is
be received well. More Western-style paid to the international scene, too:
eateries may add around a ten-percent the whole country has arranged itself
service charge, and you can increase behind two Spanish clubs, FC Barcelona
this should you want to; tipping in bars and Real Madrid. Baseball is popular
in the capital goes down well too. Free as well; San Salvador has a stadium,
guides should also be tipped. There is opposite the Artesan Market, with
no need to tip anyone else, but if you games on Sundays. Football, baseball
are not awkward about it then they and basketball games take place on
won’t be offended. Gentle bartering widespread munipal facilities, in parks
is acceptable – sometimes it works, and on beaches across the country and
sometimes it doesn’t. if it is not a training session you will be
more than welcome to join in.
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR In terms of outdoor activities, El
Salvador’s 320km of coastline is widely
ACTIVITIES accepted to have the best surfing in
Fútbol (football, soccer) is by far the Central America and is known for several
biggest spectator sport in El Salvador. world-famous breaks. The best areas are
There are two domestic seasons every on the Costa del Bálsamo (see p.276)
251
 and the Eastern beaches around El Cuco where you can make local, long-distance
(see p.281). See w www.surfingelsalvador and international calls. For local calls,
.com for surf reports, beach reviews and note that an eighth digit was added to
general information. The best hiking is in all in-country numbers in 2005 – mobile
the national parks. For good challenges numbers begin with a 7, land lines with
el salvador

try the Montecristo–El Trifinio Cloud a 2. Some signs and printed materials
Forest (see p.322), up the volcanoes of still list seven-digit numbers – just add
the Cerro Verde (see p.320) and through a 2 to the start and you’ll probably have
the dramatic, dry rainforest of Bosque El the new one. Public phones – both the
Imposible (see p.308). Diving here is not yellow Telecom booths (with instruc-
as good as in the Bay Islands or Belize, but tions in both Spanish and English) or the
Basics

there is the opportunity to see underwater lime-green Telefónica booths (instruc-

thermal vents in a crater dive on Lago de tions in Spanish only) in El Salvador are
Ilopango (see p.271), and the only Pacific cardphones: all require prepaid cards,
coral diving in Central America is off which can be purchased everywhere.
Los Cóbanos (see p.307), along with a You can make international calls from
couple of good wreck dives. See both types of cardphone (approximately
w www.elsalvadordivers.com for more US$1.50 per minute to Europe), but it’s
information. cheaper to go to a Telecom office. By far
the cheapest option, however, is web-
Communications based calls; almost all internet places
Mail (letters) from San Salvador are now equipped with headsets. Alter-
generally take about one week to the natively, a pay-as-you-go mobile phone
US and nine or so days to Europe; there costs around US$15 and can make and
are parcel services available, but you receive international calls. There are two
should use a courier service if sending networks, Tigo and Claro; Tigo currently
anything of value. The safest place to has better coverage. The telephone code
receive letters is at the lista de correos for the whole of El Salvador is T 503.
(Window 14) of the main post office in Internet of varying speeds is now
San Salvador (see p.268). Post offices available everywhere except a handful
across the country are generally open of beach communities. Rates range
Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm and from US$0.60–1 per hour, often
Saturday 8am to noon. higher in hotels. In most large towns
Telecom, the recently privatized the government-funded Infocentros
telecommunications leader, has offices (daily 9am–6pm) have the fastest
in every town (all daily 7am–6pm), from connections.

EL SALVADOR ON THE NET

w www.elsalvador.travel The newest official tourist site, with good information and
a nascent directory of businesses.
w www.fotosdeelsalvador.com An appetite-whetting archive holding thousands of
photos from across the country.
w www.lanic.utexas.edu/la/ca/salvador The most extensive list of relevant El
Salvador links available.
w www.laprensagrafica.com & www.elsalvador.com The websites for the two big
conservative daily papers (Spanish only).
w www.raices.com.sv A feisty and intelligent online magazine publishing excellent
photography and regular opinion polls (Spanish only).
w http://luterano.blogspot.com An excellent English-language blog, updated
almost daily, summarizing current affairs and adding well-informed commentary.

252
CRIME AND SAFETY
Emergency numbers
El Salvador has a reputation for guns,
gangs and danger, which, while not Cruz Roja (ambulance) T2222-5155
Fire T2271-2227/1244
unfounded, is often perpetuated by
Police T911
travellers keen to enliven their tales.

el salvador
Maras (gangs) exist across the country,
but really dangerous characters generally
on its beaches. It is best not to go out
concern themselves with the more profit-
too far on your own and ask locally
able fields of drugs, extortion and human about the conditions. If you are unable
trafficking; they don’t look for tourists, to swim back, try not to panic, swim
nor will they be found in any of the

Basics
parallel to the shoreline and wait for the
neighbourhoods you are likely to visit. rip to die down. There is no coastguard,
Bollos (drunks), the other main group of so call the police in an emergency, or
social outsiders, are generally too discon- better still find the nearest surfer.
nected with reality to be any danger, but
for the same reason should be avoided. MEDICAL CARE AND
For an excellent, realistic overview of
crime in the region, see w www.unodc EMERGENCIES
.org/documents/data-and-analysis Pharmacies are widespread, though
/Central-america-study-en.pdf. stock varies; generally the Brasil
Generally, you should be okay if you Pharmacy chain is the best stocked. If
stay confident (say “Buenos” to people), you have stomach troubles and are not
stay in groups and stay in busy areas. anti-medicine, almost every pharmacy
If you are being pestered don’t show has a one-day, three-pill miracle cure.
animosity and head for a busy café or Two private hospitals in San Salvador
restaurant. Try not to look rich and, if – Hospital de Diagnóstico (C 21 Pte at
mugged, never fight back. It is worth 2a Diagonal t 2226-8878) and Hospital
keeping US$10–20 in one pocket while Diagnóstico Escalón (C 3 Pte at 99a Av
travelling, as this will be enough for Norte t 2264-4422) – provide the best
most banditos. Be especially careful medical services in the country. If you
after nightfall in La Libertad, Sonsonate are in the east, San Miguel’s Hospital
and San Salvador’s centro; La Unión Clínica Laboratorio San Francisco (5a
and San Miguel can also be dodgy. Av Norte t 2661-1991) is another good
Women travellers should definitely private hospital; otherwise, it’s best to
stay in groups. Ignore the usual cat-calls head to the capital. All three of these
and loud blown kisses, as attempts to hospitals have 24hr emergency rooms.
scold will be seen as flirtatious; the less Have insurance documents or cash at
attention you pay, the less attention you the ready if you need treatment.
will receive.
In the event of difficulties, the money and banks
National Civilian Police (PCN) is one El Salvador has officially used the US
of the best forces in Central America, dollar (US$) since 2001. (Keep an
with little corruption and a good eye on the news, though – this may
presence in cities, at least until nightfall. change after the March 2009 presiden-
Additionally, an often English-speaking tial elections, when favourite Mauricio
tourist police operates nationwide to Funes may fulfil a long-standing FMLN
guide treks, assist and advise, and can promise to reintroduce the old currency,
be reached on t 2245-5448. the colón.) All US dollar notes and coins
Statistically, the biggest threats to are currently in free circulation, but try
tourists in El Salvador are the riptides to stockpile US$1 and US$5 bills, as
253
 anything over US$10 is likely to send are Western Union and Moneygram
the shopkeeper running down the street outlets in almost every mid-size town,
in search of change. in case you get stuck.
ATMs are not universal, even in
tourist destinations. Keep a stash of Information AND MAPS
el salvador

cash for Perquín, Tacuba, every beach The national tourist board, Corsatur
outside of La Libertad, some parts of (w www.elsalvador.travel), has been
the Ruta de las Flores and the eastern bolstered by the Ministry of Tourism
craft towns. Elsewhere, the main banks and its announced ten-year plan to
– Banco Agrícola, HSBC, Scotiabank increase tourism within the country.
and Banco Cuscatlán – have ATMs There is already tangible improvement
Basics

(cajeros), which charge a handling in the form of an annual bilingual travel-

fee of around US$1.70. Occasionally, lers’ guide, Guía de Viajero – distributed
they will inexplicably refuse your card only in the country, it’s short on practi-
(HSBC is the worst offender). Payment calities but a great travel teaser – as
by credit card is unheard of at the well as countrywide maps and a decent
budget level, but if you do encounter website. Corsatur has its main office
an establishment that will take your in San Salvador at Alameda Doctor
card there will be a commission charge Araujo, Pasaje y Edificio Carbonel #2,
of five percent. Traveller’s cheques are Colonia Roma (Mon–Fri 8am–12.30pm
becoming more widely recognized, & 1.30–5.30pm; T 2243-7835). The staff
but at present can only be changed in (who do not speak English) will help
banks, for which opening hours are you out with enquiries if you persist.
8.30 or 9am until 4 or 5pm, though Three other, less helpful, outposts exist
some of them close for an hour at in Nahuizalco, Suchitoto and Puerto La
lunch from 1 to 2pm. Some banks in Libertad, and there’s a seldom-manned
the larger cities also open between 9am desk at the airport. Small towns like
and midday on Saturday. There are Apaneca and Perquín have kiosks that
casas de cambio (generally daily 9am– issue little more than pamphlets in
5pm) along Alameda Juan Pablo II Spanish, but often the best tips come
in San Salvador, in Santa Ana and San directly from the hostel or hotel owners
Miguel and at the borders. Due to that have pioneered El Salvador’s
the foreign remittance industry there backpacker industry.

National park information

Officially, there is a permission-granting ritual that must be performed before you
enter any of El Salvador’s national parks; confusingly, parks are administered by
three different agencies. All three also allow entry and have information about other,
rarer, preserved areas as well.
The Instituto Salvadoreño de Turismo (ISTU), C Ruben Darío, 9a–11a Av Sur,
San Salvador (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 8am–noon; T 2222-8000, e [email protected]
.sv), manages Parque Nacional Walter T Deninger, and has information about all the
country’s national parks.
SalvaNatura, 33a Av Sur #640, Colonia Flor Blanca (Mon–Fri; 8am–12.30pm &
2–5.30pm; t 2279-1515, w www.salvanatura.org), covers the Bosque El Imposible
and Parque Nacional Los Volcanes.
The snappily named Ministerio de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales,
C Las Mercedes, Km 5.5 Carretera a Santa Tecla (Mon–Fri, 7.30am–12.30pm &
1.30–3.30pm; t 2267-6276, f 2267-6259, w www.marn.gob.sv) issues permits to
the Bosque Montecristo in person or by fax.
254
 Maps of El Salvador are rare and
terrible, except for those produced on Public holidays
the second floor of the Centro Nacional Jan 1 New Year’s Day
de Registros, 1a C Pte and 43 Av Nte March/April Easter (Thursday–
#2310 (Mon–Fri, 8am–noon & 1–4pm; Easter Sunday)

el salvador
t 2261-8400, w www.cnr.gob.sv). May 1 Labour Day
Aug 1–6 El Salvador del Mundo
Sept 15 Independence Day
OPENING HOURS AND
Oct 12 Columbus Day
HOLIDAYS Nov 1 Day of the Dead
Opening hours throughout the country Nov 2 All Saints’ Day
tend to vary. The big cities and major Dec 24–25 Christmas

Basics
Dec 31 New Year’s Eve
towns generally get going quite early in
the morning, with government offices
working from 8am to 4pm and most January Cristo Negro and Feria Gastronómica
businesses from 8.30/9am to 5/5.30pm, Internacional in Juayúa (Jan 8–15). Street fiesta
with the best range and quality of food.
with some closing for an hour at lunch.
February Festival Internacional de Arte y Cultura
Hotels in smaller places lock up for the in Suchitoto, a month-long celebration of classical
night between 9 and 10pm, and you may music, opera, art, theatre.
be banging on the door for a while and March Santa Semana in Izalco, popularly known
paying extra if you don’t warn them of as the best place for the Easter processions and
your late arrival. On national holidays street paintings.
and public holidays everything will be May Las Flores y Las Palmas in Panchimalco (2nd
shut, with some businesses also closing Sun) celebrates flower and palm-tree cultivation
on the day of local fiestas. Museums and with music, dancing and fireworks.
July Fiesta al Divino Salvador del Mundo in San
archeological sites all close on Mondays.
Salvador (July 25–Aug 6). Street party that shuts
down the capital.
FESTIVALS August Festival del Invierno in Perquín (Aug 1–6).
Ferías (festivals) in El Salvador, like the Exciting, young and bohemian music and arts
rest of the continent, are very important festival in the mountain town.
events in the calendar, and almost every November Vírgen de la Paz celebrated in San
Miguel (Nov 14–30). One of the biggest fiestas in
town will have its own annual celebra-
Central America, with processions and multiple
tion, most often at the time of the day music floats, dancing and drinking.
of the saint most connected to the place
in question.

255
 San Salvador
of Volcán Chichontepec (see p.287). To
the west are the natural gorge and pools

and around
of Los Chorros, a favourite weekend
retreat for Salvadoreños from the city,
and for those with an interest in arche-
el salvador

Sprawling across the Valle de las ology, the ruins of Joya de Cerén, which
Hamacas at the foot of the mighty Volcán are of international importance for their
San Salvador is the urban melee of SAN remarkable state of preservation. The
SALVADOR, El Salvador’s mercurial ruins at San Andrés nearby are rather
capital. Founded in 1545, it remained a more traditional in form, with pyramids
pretty minor place until 1785, when it and temples.
San Salvador and around

was named the first intendencia within

the Reino de Guatemala. Father José What to see and do
Delgado first made the call for independ-
San Salvador’s social and geographical
ence here, and the city was the only
landscape is fantastically linear. The
capital of the Central American Federa-
eastern part of the city – industrial,
tion, before being named capital of El
poor, dangerous and not a recom-
Salvador when the federation dissolved
mended area for visitors – morphs
in 1840. Not much remains of this illus-
into the crowded and pungent Centro
trious history today, though: a series
Histórico, or El Centro, around the
of earthquakes throughout the
Terminal de Oriente bus station. The
nineteenth and twentieth centuries,
historic centre’s churches and theatre
and bombings when the FMLN seized
are some of the country’s best, though
portions of the city in 1989, have levelled surrounded by chattering stall traders
most of the centre. Little you can see and street comedores. West of here the
predates the nineteenth century. road creeps uphill to the more relaxed
The atmosphere of the place is quite shops and services around the green
different, however; after two progres- acres of Parque Cuscatlán, and the
sive mayorships and a more proactive heady commercialism of the Metro-
chief of police, the city is going through centro. Continuing west, the climb
something of a renaissance. Pleasant continues to the trimmed hedges, fancy
suburbs, great little parks, genuinely bars and cultural monoliths of the Zona
interesting museums, a bustling centre Rosa, before finishing at the fine restau-
and thriving commercial zone make rants, exclusive nightclubs and guarded
for an exciting place to explore, while castles of Colonia Escalón. Floating
a bohemian arts scene, good bars above this east-to-west progression
and safe clubs provide fun night-time are the arty, studenty, liberal, traveller-
distractions. friendly cafés, hostels and late-night
Northwest of the city, Volcán San bars north of Boulevard los Héroes.
Salvador looms over the valley and
the suburb of Santa Tecla, while to Plaza Barrios
the south the extensive Parque Balboa Though the heart of the raging centro,
gives vistas the length of the coast. the rejuvenated Plaza Barrios is a good
Tucked beneath the park, the village of spot for a rest, with shaded benches and
Panchimalco’s splendid colonial church a good sampling of the local popula-
belies its predominantly indigenous tion present at any one time. Plaques
populace. Fifteen kilometres east of San on the central island commemorate
Salvador sits the country’s largest crater the six Jesuit priests murdered at La
lake, beautiful Lago de Ilopango, with UCA in 1989 (see p.263). On the
views on a clear day across to the peaks plaza’s western edge stands the Palacio
256
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257
 Nacional, seat of government until the Metropolitana (7am–5pm; donations
devastating earthquake of 1986. The optional), on its north side. The building
Renaissance-style palace dates back to dates back to 1888, but has been severely
1905, having replaced an earlier edifice damaged on a number of occasions,
that was destroyed by fire. Repairs – set most notably by fire in 1951. Repairs
el salvador

back further by a 2001 quake – are still were suspended in 1977 by Archbishop
underway. When eventually finished, Oscar Romero, who argued that funds
the building will house the national laid out for the work should be diverted
archives and a national history museum. to feeding the country’s hungry. It was
On the south side of the plaza is the Romero’s murder in March 1980 that is
Biblioteca Nacional (Mon–Fri 8am– widely perceived as the event that sent
San Salvador and around

4pm, Sat 8am–noon; w www.binaes.gob the country spiralling into civil war:
.sv), which houses Salvadoran literary mourners carrying his body to its final
works on the second floor, along with a resting place in a chapel beneath the
portrait mapping all the presidents of El cathedral were fired upon by govern-
Salvador until 1994. ment troops stationed on top of the
surrounding buildings, and many
Catedral Metropolitana were slaughtered as they tried to reach
The square’s most imposing and sanctuary inside the cathedral. Work
notorious structure is the Catedral on the building resumed after the civil

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war, and was finally completed in 1999. its southern edge by the Renaissance-
The colourful “naïf ” murals around style Teatro Nacional. Built with the
the main doors, by El Salvador’s most profits of the country’s coffee planta-
famous artist, Fernando Llort, are worth tions and reflecting the global vogue
admiring, and you can visit Romero’s for French culture in the early twentieth

el salvador
tomb in the eerie and expansive chapel century, the restored interior – all red
below (Mon–Sat 9.30–11.30am & 2.30– plush, marble and decorative plaster-
4.30pm, Sun 8.30am–5pm; donations work – harks back to grander times.

San Salvador and around

optional). Confession in the early- Regular musical and theatrical events
Christian, open confessionals of the are held here, including performances of
side altars runs late morning and late the national orchestra most fortnights.
afternoon every day. Upcoming events can be found in the
Friday edition or website of the national
Iglesia Calvario newspaper Diario del Hoy (w www
One block south and two blocks west .elsalvador.com).
of the plaza, and in the jaws of the
street market, is the dark, neo-Gothic Parque Infantíl
and slightly derelict Iglesia Calvario Several blocks north of the Centro
(7am–5pm; donations optional), whose Histórico, near the intersection of
pretty blue and yellow roof is worth a Avenida España and Alameda Juan
look – the colours are the result of light Pablo II, is the forested Parque Infantíl
passing through stained glass rather (Parque Campo Marte; daily 9am–
than paint. 5pm; US$0.57). Despite being a busy
departure and arrival point for city
Iglesia el Rosario buses, it is also popular with lunching
Two blocks east of Plaza Barrios is the workers from the nearby Centro de
wide and busy Parque Libertad, where Gobierno and with local families, who
the central statue of feather-winged picnic here on the weekends. There’s a
Liberty stands watch over crowds that children’s playground, forested tracks
gather in the square. Dominating the east planted with native and medicinal
side, the smog-stained, concrete facade species of trees, an open-air theatre
of the Iglesia el Rosario (6am–midday & and a monument to the heroes of
2–7pm; donations optional) looks like an 1890.
industrial turbine. Do not, whatever you
do, let this put you off, as the interior is Iglesia Don Rua
the most spectacular and original in the Continue north past the eastern edge
country. Sunlight passing through stained of the Parque Infantíl for five blocks
glass set in the arc of the roof casts acid- and you come to perhaps the most
bright colour dispersions across the brick commanding church in the city – and
walls, the contorted metal sculptures, the its largest functioning one – the Iglesia
doll-like shrines and the chequered floor. Don Rua. Built in the nineteenth
Furthermore, the tomb of Father José century, the white bulk of the church
Delgado, father of independence and the towers above the surrounding houses
man who ended slavery in all of Central and is particularly notable for its
America, is beneath the church. stunning stained-glass windows.

Plaza Morazán and the Parque Zoológicol and

Teatro Nacional Museo de Historia Natural
One block north of El Rosario is the A kilometre or so south of Plaza Barrios
compact Plaza Morazán, bounded on along Avenida Cuscatlán is the Parque
259
 Zoológicol Nacional (Wed–Sun 9am– get near him. The only hitch is that if
4pm; $0.60), with shaded paths, a good you are not a child, you will have to find
range of local birds and a great monkey one to accompany you in.
island. In the park just south of the
zoo, on the appropriately named Calle Boulevard de los Héroes
el salvador

los Viveros (“plant/animal nurseries” Eight blocks west of Parque Cuscatlán,

road), the Museo de Historia Natural Alameda Roosevelt crosses 49 Avenida
(Wed–Sun 9am–4.30pm; US$0.60) has Norte by Estadio Mágico Gonzalez,
some interesting exhibits on animals, where international football matches
plants, the country’s geological develop- are played. Three blocks north the
ment and a little botanical garden. avenida curls eastward and becomes
San Salvador and around

Boulevard de los Héroes, dripping

Parque Bolívar and Iglesia in American fast-food chains. Beyond
Sagrado Corazón these, at 27 Av Norte #1140, is the
West along Calle Rubén Darío from Museo de la Palabra y la Imagen
Plaza Barrios is the recently refurbished (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–5pm, Sat
Parque Bolívar, of little interest save 8am–noon; US$2; w www.museo.com
for a horseback statue of the liberator .sv), which holds exhibitions and instal-
himself. One block north, on Calle lations focusing on the civil war (from
Arce, is the nineteenth-century Iglesia a leftist viewpoint) and indigenous
Sagrado Corazón, with impressive culture. The war photography regularly
stained-glass windows and a wooden on display is moving, shocking and
interior. excellent. There’s a recreation of Radio
Venceremos, the clandestine guerrilla
Parque Cuscatlán radio station that counterbalanced
Parque Cuscatlán, west of Parque government media propaganda during
Bolivar along Calle Rubén Dario, is a the civil war, hidden at the back.
large expanse of shady walkways and
grass lawns that not only offers respite Colonia Centroamerica
from the heat and noise, but also is Heading north of Boulevard los Héroes
home to several interesting sights. on Calle Centroamérica takes you into
The Monumento a la Memoria y la the arty and pleasant Colonia Centro-
Verdad (Tues–Sun, 6am–6pm; free) américa, the most traveller-friendly
lists the names of the thousands upon area of town. Straight up the hill on
thousands who died or “disappeared” the calle, the Parque Colonia Centro-
leading up to and during the civil américa has two free flood-lit basketball
conflict. Nearby, the Sala Nacional courts, benches and gnarled trees to sit
de Exposiciones (daily 9am–noon & in; it’s the only park you should consider
2–5pm; free) has interesting and high- being in after dark. At the northern end
quality rotating art exhibitions, while of the park, the Museo de Arte Popular
at the eastern end of the park, the Tin (Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–6pm;
Marín Children’s Museum (Tues–Fri US$1; t 2274-5154) has an interesting
9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am– collection of folk art, in particular
1pm & 2–6pm; US$2; w www.tinmarin some fine examples of the miniature
.org) may well be the best kids’ museum clay people made around Ilobasco and
ever, with attractions like painting a VW known as sorpresas (surprises) – see
Beetle, sitting in a cockpit of a 727 and p.286 for more details about these. Call
playing in a sloping house. A favourite ahead for a free guide to the pieces, but
is the grumpy little General Fintan who only if you can speak Spanish, as their
points and shakes his head when you English is not good.
260
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Plaza de las Américas contains a sculpture of the national

Alameda Roosevelt continues west past symbol, El Monumento El Salvador del
Boulevard de los Héroes up to the rich Mundo, which portrays Jesus standing on
but site-less suburbs of Colonia Escalón, top of the globe. Curiously situated on the
on the slopes of Volcán San Salvador. central island of a four-lane roundabout,
Halfway along, the Plaza de las Américas you can just see it from a bus window.
261
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Avenida la Revolución and Salvador’s best monument and two

around best museums. Up in the leafy Colonia
Running south off Alameda Roosevelt, San Benito stands the Monumento a
79a Avenida Sur crosses the river and la Revolución, a vast, curved slab of
turns into Boulevard del Hipódromo, concrete bearing a mosaic of a naked
the pumping central artery of the Zona Goliath with head thrown back and
Rosa evening playground. Running arms uplifted. Built to commemorate
at right angles to the boulevard is the revolutionary movement of 1948,
Avenida la Revolución, home to San the monument’s location – overlooking
262
the bars and boutiques where the La UCA
city’s rich fritter their money away – is Stretching behind the basilica is the
supremely ironic. campus of the fee-paying Universidad
Behind the weeping Goliath, inside the de Centro América (“La UCA”; also
Complejo Cultural, the Museo de Arte known as the Jesuit University), pleas-

el salvador
de El Salvador (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; antly laid out amid shady grounds.
US$1.50; w www.marte.org.sv) has a The moving Centro Monseñor
great overview of modern Salvadoran Romero (Mon–Fri 8am–noon &
art as well as temporary exhibitions, 2–6pm, Sat 8am–11.30pm; free) at La
generally of works by Latin American UCA commemorates the assassinated
artists. If you book two to four days Archbishop Romero, along with the six

San Salvador and around

in advance you can get a free English- Jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her
speaking guide. Next door is the daughter, who were murdered here by
Teatro Presidente, less impressive than the security forces in November 1989.
the Teatro Nacional but nonetheless Volunteer students act as guides to the
featuring a packed schedule of opera, small museum, which houses clothing,
ballet, classical concerts and musicals. photographs and personal effects of
The southern end of Avenida la Revolu- Romero and the priests, along with
ción holds the Museo Nacional de those of other human-rights workers
Antropología “Dr David J. Guzmán” killed during the years of conflict. There
(Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; US$3, or US$5 are diagrams and explanations of the
to use camera inside), named after an campus massacre, as well as eyewitness
eminent Salvadoreño biologist and descriptions of other atrocities during
home to the nation’s largest collection the war, such as the massacres at Río
of cultural artefacts and anthropological Sumpul (May 1980) and Mozote (Dec
displays, plus exhibits of modern Salva- 1981). Outside, a small rose garden
doreño life and science. Perhaps the most has been planted in tribute; the circle
important piece in the museum is the of six bushes is for the six priests, the
Monolito del Jaguar, a five-ton circular white rose in the centre is for Monseñor
representation of a jaguar’s head. It is Romero.
worth phoning ahead to organize a free
English-speaking guide, as the plaques Jardín Botánico la Laguna
are all in Spanish. A short distance south of the university,
the tranquil Jardín Botánico la Laguna
Carretera Interamericana (Tues–Sun 9am–5.30pm; US$0.50) sits
At the southern end of Avenida la incongruously at the edge of an indus-
Revolución is Alameda Araujo, which trial park and at the foot of old volcanic
runs from Plaza de las Américas cliffs. The garden contains plants from
through the southwest quarters of the all over the world, set among shady trees
city to meet the Autopista del Sur. Here and small streams, and is a good place to
is possibly the most beautiful church in escape the city for an hour or two. Buses
San Salvador, the Basílica de Nuestra #101D and #44 will drop you off about
Señora de Guadalupe (daily 7am– five minutes’ walk from the entrance.
5pm; donations optional). Built after
World War I and consecrated in 1953, Arrival and information
the basilica is dedicated to the Virgen
By air Comalapa International Airport (wwww
Morena, or Black Virgin, patroness of .cepa.gob.sv) is a 45min drive southeast of the city
the Americas. Inside are lovely stained- centre. Buses (#14, #15 and #29, among others)
glass windows and a 1950s mural of the stop by the highway turn-off to the airport; #29 then
Virgin and angels over the altar. stops in the city centre. If it is getting late take a
263
 taxi; after 7pm taxis are the only way to get to the At most places tours start from around US$30 per
centre. Taxis Acacya (T2271-4937) have a booth person, more if the group is smaller.
at the airport and charge US$25 day or night to Tourist information The offices of Mitur and
the capital, regardless of numbers. They also run Corsatur, both at Edificio Carbonel #1, Alameda
a colectivo service (9am, 1pm & 5.30pm from the Araujo (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; t2243-7835 or 2241-
airport; 6am, 7am, 10am and 2pm to the airport; 3200, wwww.elsalvador.travel) give out quite basic
el salvador

US$3) leaving and arriving at their offices at 19a Av maps and advertisement-laden "guides". If you are
Nte & C 3 Pte #1107. persistent they can answer any queries you have.
By bus International buses arrive at the Puertobus ISTU, C Ruben Dario #619 (t2222-8000, wwww
terminal by the Centro Gobierno (from Guatemala .istu.gob.sv) provides information on national parks
and Honduras), or at the Terminal de Occidente, and turicentros, while the Ministerio de Trabajo,
Blvd Venezuela in the southwest of the city (from C Nuevo Dos #19 (t2298-8739) run four centres
San Salvador and around

Guatemala). Tica Bus buses from Costa Rica, providing free accommodation around the country
Nicaragua and Guatemala have their own terminal (see box, p.270). For event listings, keep a lookout
at C Concepción #121 in the Centro Histórico. for Ke Pasa, a free weekly entertainment guide
Domestic buses from the north and east arrive available in bars and restaurants. The Revue, Guate-
at Terminal de Oriente, east of the centre, from mala’s English-language magazine, also includes
where #9, #29 or #34 go to the centre and #29 an El Salvador section and is widely available
and #54 go to Blvd los Héroes. Buses from the throughout the city.
west and beaches west of La Libertad arrive at the Travel agents The offices of most airlines with
Terminal de Occidente; bus #44 goes to Blvd los service to the country and many other travel
Héroes and #34 to the Terminal de Oriente via the agants can be found along the Alameda Roosevelt/
Centro. Buses from the eastern coastal highway Paseo Escalón, with TACA and AA offices in the
go to the Terminal de Sur, connected to the centre Metrocentro (see p.267).
via #26 or #11B.
Tour operators Akwaterra (no office premises; City transport
t 7888-8642, wwww.akwaterra.com) speak great
English and run active ecotours on land and sea Buses The city bus network (schoolbuses and
– everything from kayaking and surfing to horseÂ� minibuses) runs from 6am until around 8pm and is
riding and mountain-biking. El Salvador Divers, comprehensive, frequent and cheap – it’s US$0.25
C 3 Pte 5020-A at 99a Av Nte (T 2264-0961, to anywhere in the city. Pay the driver if there is a
W www.elsalvadordivers.com), has diving trips gate, or the roaming, shouting driver’s assistant if
along the Los Cóbanos/Los Remedios stretch of the not. Most stops are not marked, so look for large
Pacific coast and crater diving at Lake Coatepeque, public buildings, shopping centres or groups of
plus PADI courses and equipment rental. Ríos people waiting by the road; usually you can also
Aventuras (T2298-0335, Egrupotropic hop on if they stop in traffic.
@navegante.com.sv) organizes rafting on the ríos Taxis Yellow city taxis ply the streets and wait
Paz and Lempa for minimum groups of four people. around bus terminals, markets and major shopping

Useful bus routes in san salvador

#29 From Terminal de Oriente to Metrocentro via Centro Histórico.
#30B Along Boulevard de los Héroes, up Alameda Roosevelt and part of Paseo
Escalón, then turning west to run past the Zona Rosa.
#34 From Terminal de Oriente through Centro Histórico to Terminal de Occidente
and out along the Carretera Interamericana, past the Mercado de Artesanías.
#44 Along Boulevard de los Héroes, onto 49a Av Sur close to the Terminal de
Occidente, past the Universidad de Centroamérica and out past the US Embassy to
Santa Elena.
#52 Along Alameda Juan Pablo I, past Metrosur and on to El Salvador del Mundo
(opposite the Telecom office), then up Paseo Escalón past the Galerías shopping
mall.
#101A/B/C/D From Centro Histórico up Alameda Roosevelt to Plaza de las
Américas, then on to Santa Tecla.

264
areas. They cost US$4–6, which you should sort out pick-up, good food and laundry service (US$5)
before getting in. Take taxis after dark. – supplementing their firm beds and clean rooms
with cable TV. 4
Accommodation La Estancia Av Cortés 216 T2275-3381. A
relaxed travellers’ hostel with a large cable TV area,
free kitchen use and coffee. The dorm bunks spill

el salvador
Accomodation in San Salvador can be defined
by neighbourhood. The Centro Histórico is not out into the corridor and the clean en-suite rooms
generally conducive to peace of mind or a pleasant are little, but are great value, especially the room
stay, and there is very little to do there at night but with a private terrace. Dorms 2 , doubles 3
wait for a morning bus. The western suburbs are Ximena’s Guest House C San Salvador 202, Col
safe and there’s plenty to see and do, but there are Centro América T 2260-2481, E ximenas
few genuinely budget options. North of Boulevard @navegante.com.sv. The original San Salvador

San Salvador and around

de los Héroes is middle ground, and much better for hostel is not necessarily still the best. Beds are
travellers: it’s safe and with a good nightlife. lumpy or saggy and the electric hot water (which
you pay extra for) is shockingly inconsistent. It
Centro Histórico remains a travellers’ favourite though, not least
American Guest House 17a Av Nte 119, for the fruit breakfasts, helpful English-speaking
between C Arce & C 1 Pte T 2222-8789, owner and social evening atmosphere. Dorms 2 ,
E [email protected]. Dimly-lit doubles 4
and rather gloomy rooms, but the service is friendly.
Rooms, some oddly-shaped, come with a choice Colonia Escalón
of private or shared bath, plus hot water and cable Casa Huéspedes Australia 1a C Pte 3852
TV. International phone calls available and meals t2298-6035. Lacks the atmosphere of the Blvd
served at on-site café. 2 –3 de los Héroes hostels, but is certainly cleaner and
International Custodio 10a Av Sur 109 t2502- more comfortable, offers free breakfast and internet
0678, [email protected]. One of the and the showers are big and hot. It's incredible
centre’s best options, with friendly service, great value for Escalón, but choose the cheapest rooms,
views from the roof, clean sheets and decent fans. as there is no massive difference in the more
Credit cards are accepted and the manager, who expensive – all rates are per person. 3
speaks good English, can give advice on the area.
Reductions available on extended stays. 2
Nuevo Panamerican 8a Av Sur, by the Mercado
treat yourself

Villa Marella C Juan José

Ex-Cuartel T2221-1199 or 2222-2959, Cañas and 83a Av Sur t2263-
e [email protected]. Firm beds with 4931. The best deal of the
ornate bedsteads, a choice of humming a/c or silent upmarket Escalón hotels,
ceiling fans and en-suite showers all serve to make with giant beds, powerful
this a great choice in the centre. 2 hot showers, complimentary
Villa Floréncia C 1 Pte 1023, between 17a & 19a mineral water, free internet, an
Av Nte T2221-1706. One of several similar hotels indigo-coloured splash pool
in the area behind the Puerto bus terminal. With with accompanying loungers,
large, bright, airy en-suite rooms, cable TV and great service and tasty, if
communal seating areas, this is perhaps the best equally costly, food. 7
of the bunch. 3

Around Blvd de los

Héroes Eating
Casa Clementina Av Morazán 34 at C Washington,
Col Libertad T2225-5962. Friendly, peaceful and The best restaurants are concentrated in the
secure with communal garden, TV and outdoor western suburbs, catering to those with the
seating. Simply furnished but attractive cold-water money and time to indulge. There are comedores
en-suite rooms with fan. Rates include breakfast. and pupuserías everywhere and, if they look
Singles 3 , doubles 5 hygienic or locals are eating at them you
Casa Tazumal 35a Av Nte 3 t 2235-0156, shouldn’t be afraid to try. The Boulevard de los
e [email protected]. Héroes itself is dominated by local and interÂ�
A good, homely hotel with plenty of perks – free national fast-food chains, but there are good
daily internet access, airport or bus terminal options off the main drag.
265
 Centro Histórico Colonia Escalón and the
Café Maquilishuat C 4 Pte & 9a Av Sur. Sodas, Zona Rosa
great juices (US$0.80), and típicos (US$2–4) with Dulce y Salado 3 C Pte, by Plaza Beethoven.
a Mexican and American influence dished out on Although decorated like a little girl’s bedroom,
plastic trays in lively a/c surroundings. this little restaurant has good pancake, juice
and coffee breakfasts (US$3) and great quiche
el salvador

Koradi 9a Av Sur 225, at C 4 Pte. One of the few

places catering to vegetarians, with soya burgers (US$5.50).
(US$2.50), wholewheat pizzas and great juices. Kalpataru Av Masferrer 147 T2263-1204. Imagi-
Open in the daytime only; closed Sun. native vegetarian fare: try the pupusas (US$3) with
Pan Salvador C Arce, between 7a & 9a Av Sur. unusual fillings like stir-fried broccoli and curried
Popular with local workers, this busy comedor and vegetables. There is a natural medicine counter and
bakery serves meat dishes for less than US$1, with bookshop on site.
San Salvador and around

combo deals for US$1.50 and coffee for US$0.35. Comedor y Pupusería Shadaii 77a Av Sur, behind
The whole place is redolent with the scent of Super Selectos. The comedor and pupuseria of
baking cakes. choice for the area’s workers, with típicos break-
fasts (US$1.50) and lunches (US$1.80–2) that are
Around Boulevard de los the cheapest around.
Héroes
Ay Q’Rico Blvd Universitario 217. Popular among
treat yourself A lo Nuestro C La Reforma
the local students for its cheap daily menus
225–A t2223-5116. If you
(US$1.50–2) served with free beer. Also a wide
want to taste the true potential
selection of seafood and poultry dishes with a touch
of what many view as El
of Mexican flavour.
Salvador’s “simple” cuisine,
Café la ‘t’ C San Antonio Abad 2233.
head to this gourmet restaurant.
Owner Anna has turned this into a great
The refined Salvadoran menu
little arty café and bar offering a calendar of
is a delight, and the ambience
once-monthly live music and art exhibitions.
romantic, with tablecloths and
The tiramisu (US$2.75) is rumoured to be the
low lighting. Mains $10–20.
best in the country and the lemon, honey and
vodka-filled “Café Ivanovic” cocktail (US$1.95)
is excellent.
Casablanca C San Antonio Abad & Av San José. Drinking and nightlife
A well-prepared canteen menu (US$2–4), with
large soup portions, is served in a cool and San Salvador’s clubs and bars are found mainly
open room shielded from the traffic by climbing in the western suburbs, but there are also small
plants. pockets of expat and tourist nightlife, particularly
Comedor Brenda Next to the Museo de Palabra in and around around Ximena’s Guesthouse and
y Imagen. An outstanding comedor with a la vista La Estancia in Colonia Centroamérica, behind
(canteen) lunches for under US$2 and great snacks Boulevard de los Héroes.
in the afternoon, including the best yuca frita
(US$0.35) around. Open noon to 6pm. Around Blvd de los
La Fruta Av Maracaibo 519 T2260-1253. Come Héroes
here for more than 200 juice combinations, as well El Arpa Irlandés Av A, on the west side of Parque
as breakfasts and lunches made from all natural San José. This shiny and polite bar is the place to
ingredients. Evening meals available if you call in come for a Guinness (US$3) or a Pilsener (US$1).
advance. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. There’s a pool table, and rock bands on Sat nights,
Mayaburger Behind the Esso station on C G which draw a young crowd.
Cortés. This trustworthy burger van outstrips the big Café la ‘t’ C San Antonio Abad 2233. Good cocktails
franchises both on price (a two-burger sandwich, (US$3) and a relaxed atmosphere make this a nice
onions and salad are US$1.75) and taste – plus, it’s place to start off a night around Los Héroes. Open
open 24/7. until 11pm or midnight on Fri–Sun.
Tacos de Paco C Andes 2931. Tasty Mexican tacos La Canchita C Lamatepec, by C los Andes. This fun
(US$3–4) with a twist – they are served in a room and feisty bar, which offers buckets of six bottles
that has original art on the walls and hosts poetry of beer for US$5 and has the best full-sized pool
readings on Wed evenings. Open noon–3pm & tables in town (US$1 per 30min), is the pick of
5–10pm. several places in the area.
266
Legendas On the south side of Parque San José.
This orange-walled late-night spot has darts, table- Entertainment
football, music that gets people dancing and neither
Cinema There are a couple of multiscreen
charges entry nor inflates its beer prices. Rum &
complexes – a Cinemark at the Metrocentro and an
coke US$1.50.
11-screen Cinépolis at Galerías Escalón. Both show
La Luna Casa y Arte C Berlin 228

el salvador
some original-language films and some dubbed
w www.lalunacasayarte.com. Hands
(tickets US$2–3). Independent cinema can be found
down the best bar in San Salvador, with a film,
at La Luna (see above) on Wed–Sun, starting at
live music and exhibition program every night.
around 7pm, or Café la ‘t’ (see p.266) on Wed &
There is eclectic furnishing, the walls are decked
Thurs around 8pm.
in paintings and dripping in good taste. Brilliant
Dancing Pueblo Viejo, in the Metrosur (t2260-
cocktails (US$3) include ice cream and Baileys
3551), has salsa dancing on weekends (see above).

San Salvador and around

and White Russians. Check out the schedule
Theatre The Teatro Presidente (see p.263) and the
online or nailed to the tree outside. Wed–Sun
Teatro Nacional (see p.259) host everything from
7pm–2am. US$3–5 entry after 9pm.
ballet to musicals to opera at anything from US$3 to
Pueblo Viejo In the Metrosur on Blvd de los Héroes
US$30, while the Teatro Luis Poma, just inside the
t 2260-3551. The popular Pueblo has salsa
main arched entrance to the Metrocentro, shows
dancing in a welcoming atmosphere Thurs–Sat
locally produced plays (US$5). Information can be
9pm–midnight. There are US$3 cover charges on
found in the Friday edition and on the website of El
Fri & Sat.
Diario de Hoy (wwww.elsalvador.com)
Colonia Escalón and the
Zona Rosa Shopping
Envy 2nd floor, Multiplaza shopping mall, Antiguo
Cuscatlán t2243-2576. The place to go for the Art The El Árbol de Dios art gallery, on Av
rich San Salvador set. They all get dressed up, and Masferrer y C la Mascota (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm;
you have to too (trousers, shirt, shoes). Music is free), is the shop of El Salvador’s emblematic
dance, R&B and hip-hop. Entry US$5. painter Fernando Llort. Everything from prints to
La Media Concha 79a Av Sur, by C La Mascota. cooking aprons in his naïf style can be purchased;
Unlike the majority of Zona Rosa restaurant-cum- most items are produced in the workshop in the
dancehalls, this bar, selling barbecue and beer back. Originals go for about half a million dollars.
giraffes (four-pint towers of beer; US$8.60) is Books The bookshop on the second level of the
brimming with personality and boasts a terrace to Metrocentro has a selection of English-language
cool off when you become overwhelmed by titles and some US magazines. Punto Literario, Blvd
the young Salvadoreños busting moves on del Hipódromo 326, has English, French, German and
dancefloor. Spanish literature, while La Ventana restaurant (see
La Ventana Plaza Palestina, Col Escalón above) has a small selection of political and social
between 9a C Pe & 83 Av Nte. European-run texts (in English and Spanish) and US magazines and
restaurant and bar with an interesting selection newspapers.
of dishes (US$5–9) inspired by cuisines from Malls Reputedly the largest shopping mall in Central
around the world. Very popular at the weekends America, the Metrocentro/Metrosur complex at
with expats, tourists and moneyed Salvadoreños. the southern end of Blvd de los Héroes holds three
Daily until 1am. storeys of expensive boutiques, sporting-goods

crafts in san salvador

Artisan work is still highly valued in El Salvador, and many communities have
defined themselves by a chosen craft. The most well-known types are the brightly
painted, naïf-style wood and ceramics from La Palma, the hammocks from
Concepción Quezaltepeque and the interesting ceramics at Ilobasco. These are far
cheaper in their place of manufacture, but the Mercado Cuartel and the Mercado
de Artesanías in San Salvador both have an extensive selection of goods from
across the country at reasonable prices; a number of more expensive shops around
town also carry smaller selections. Hammocks can usually be found for sale in the
Parque Central in San Salvador.

267
 outlets, pricey but well-stocked souvenir shops, a Medical care There’s a 24hr pharmacy at Farmacia
supermarket and a food court. Galerias Escalón, at Internacional, Edificio Kent, Local 6, Alameda Juan
Paseo Gen Escalón 3700, is the same but classier. Pablo II at Blvd de los Héroes. The Medicentro at
Multiplaza, on the Carretera Panamericana to Santa 27a Av Nte and C 21 Pte has a number of doctors
Elena, with its flashy bars and restaurants, is the specializing in different fields.
most upmarket. Police The main station is in the Scottish castle-
el salvador

Markets There are two good markets for artisan like building which occupies an entire block on 10a
handicrafts: the central Mercado Ex Cuartel, three Av Sur at C 6 Ote (T2271-4422).
blocks east from the Teatro Nacional, and the Post office Behind the Centro de Gobierno on Blvd
higher-quality Mercado de Artesanías, opposite the Centro de Gobierno; look for the large building with
baseball stadium on Alameda M E Araujo; see box, “UPAE” on the side. The lista de correos (Mon–Fri
p.267, for more details. Southwest of Plaza Barrios 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–noon) is at window 14 in the
San Salvador and around

are the ever-expanding street stalls of the Mercado main section. There are smaller offices in the lower
Central, where anything and everything can be level of the Metrocentro mall.
bought for about a dollar, even on a Sun. Telephones Telecom, the French-owned former
state phone company, has an enormous glass office
at La Campana on Plaza de las Américas.
Directory
Exchange Most banks ask for the original receipt Moving on
when cashing traveller’s cheques and give over-
the-counter cash advances on Visa and MasterCard. San Salvador is El Salvador’s bus hub, with the best
Banco Hipotecario, at Av Cuscatlán between C 4 land transport connections in the country. There are
& 6 Ote, and other branches around the city, do also flights, both domestic and international, out of
not demand the receipt. American Express issues the city’s airport.
traveller’s cheques from their office at 55 Av Sur,
Edificio Credomatic, between Alameda Roosevelt & By air
Av Olímpica (T2245-3774). Banks and ATMs are You can get flights out of Comalapa airport with:
ubiquitous around the western suburbs and Blvd TACA Airlines (wwww.taca.com), to North, South
de los Héroes. and Central Americas and the Caribbean; American
Embassies Most embassies are located in or Airlines (wwww.aa.com) and Continental Airlines
around the Paseo Escalón and Zona Rosa districts. (wwww.continental.com), for the US; and Air
The US embassy, the second most heavily fortified Transat (wwww.airtransat.com) to Canada.
in the world, is on Blvd Santa Elena, Antiguo
Cuscatlán T2501-2999/2004 (take bus #44). By bus
Canada is at Alameda Roosevelt y 63a Av Sur San Salvador has three domestic terminals and two
(t 2279-4655). British citizens should call the international terminals. Despite this, leaving the city
honorary consul on t2281-5555. Australians can is a remarkably easy exercise. Most international
contact the Canadian embassy. buses can also be caught on Blvd del Hipódromo
Immigration Ministerio del Interior in the Centro as they leave the city, but these departures are
de Gobierno, on Alameda Juan Pablo I (Mon–Fri very early in the morning, so check the day before
8am–4pm; T2221-2111), is the place to get and get a taxi. Bus route information is available
stamps, tourist cards and visas extended. in Spanish only from the Association of Salvadoran
Internet The Metrosur has two fast internet cafés; Bus Owners (AEAS; T2225-2661) at C 27 Pte
and Cyber Café Genus, on Av Izalco by the church, 1132, Colonia Layco, or the tourist office.
is also very friendly. Cyber snack, on the east side
of Plaza Barrios, is fast enough. There are Infocen- Domestic bus terminals
tros on C Arce between 19a and 21a Av Sur, and Terminal de Occidente On Blvd Venezuela
in the Zona Rosa where Blvd del Hipódromo meets (reached by urban services #4, #27, #34 and #7C).
Av la Revolución. Expect to pay between US$0.60 Serves the south and west of the country.
and US$1. Terminal de Oriente On Blvd del Ejército (reached
Laundry Lavandería Lavapronto, C Los Sismiles by urban services #3, #5, #7, #8, #9, #28, #29, #34
2944 (Mon–Sat 7am–7pm). An average load should and #42). Serves the east and north of the country.
cost US$2–3. Terminal del Sur On the Autopista a Comalapa
Libraries La UCA has a very good library, The (reached by urban services #11B, #21 and #26).
Biblioteca Nacional is open to the public, but you The stop for buses along the eastern Carretera
have to show ID. Litoral to Zacatecoluca and Usulután.
268
 Domestic bus departures (daily; 11hr); San José, Costa Rica (daily; 18hr);
Terminal de Occidente to: Ahuachapán (#202; San Pedro Sula, Honduras (2 daily; 6hr); Tapachula,
frequent; 3hr 30min); Desvío Opico, via Joya de Mexico (daily; 10hr); Tegucigalpa, Honduras (3 daily;
Cerén (#108; frequent; 1hr); La Libertad (#102; 6hr 30min).
very frequent; 1hr); Metapán (#201A; twice hourly; Terminal Tica Bus to: Tapachula, Mexico via
Guatemala City (daily; 10hr/5hr); Panama City via

el salvador
3hr 30min); Santa Ana, via San Andrés (#201;
frequent; 1hr 20min–2hr); Sonsonate (#205; San José, Costa Rica and Managua, Nicaragua
very frequent; 1hr 30 min). (daily; 36hr/18hr/11hr).
Terminal de Oriente to: Chalatenango (#125;
frequent; 2hr 30min); Ilobasco (#111; every 15min; AROUND San Salvador
1hr 20min); La Palma/El Poy (#119; twice hourly;
4hr 30min); La Unión (#304; twice hourly; 3–4hr); San
San Salvador is an excellent transport
hub, and within easy reach of the city

San Salvador and around

Francisco Gotera (#305 (direct); 3 daily; 3–4hr); San
Miguel (#301; frequent; 3–4hr); San Vicente (#116; are a number of destinations offering
frequent; 1hr 30min); Suchitoto (#129; three hourly; immediate relief from the heat and
1hr 30min); Usulután (#302; 2 daily; 2hr 30min). crowds. Head in any direction and in
Luxury services to San Miguel (every 40min; 2hr) and well under an hour you’ll find lush,
San Vicente (8 daily; 1hr) also depart this terminal. rolling countryside.
Terminal del Sur to: Costa del Sol (#495; twice
hourly; 2hr 30min); Puerto El Triunfo (#185; 6 daily;
Los Chorros
2hr); Usulután (#302; frequent; 2hr 30min); Zacate-
coluca (#133; frequent; 1hr 30min). West along the Carretera Interameri-
cana from San Salvador light industrial
International bus and residential districts blend indis-
terminals cernibly into Santa Tecla, briefly the
Terminal Puertobus On Alameda Juan Pablo II capital in 1854 but now only of minor
(reached by urban service #52). interest. Six kilometres farther along
Terminal Tica Bus By the Hotel San Carlos on the highway, El Salvador’s most popuar
C Concepción (reached by urban services #29
turicentro, Los Chorros (daily 7am–
and #34).
5pm; US$0.90), is a great spot for a
International bus swim. Small waterfalls cascade through
departures mossy jungle slopes into a series of
Terminal Puertobus to: Guatemala City (18 daily landscaped pools, suitable for bathing;
Mon–Sat, 4 daily Sun; 5hr); Managua, Nicaragua there are public changing rooms and
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269
 Turicentros And Centros Obrajo
Most large, urban settlements in El Salvador are within a stone’s throw of one of
the country’s fourteen turicentros, public tourism centres designed to give city
dwellers the opportunity to enjoy nature in comfortable surroundings. There are
el salvador

three in the vicinity of San Salvador – Los Chorros (see p.269), Apulo (p.271) and
Parque Balboa (p.272) – but whichever city you’re in, one is never far away. Most
involve some kind of water-based diversion – swimming pools or natural lakes –
along with ample provision of food and cabañas to escape the sun. Opening hours
are between 9am and 5pm and there is an entry charge of something less than a
dollar. Contact ISTU (see p.254) for more information.
For those who want full accommodation on the government, there are also four
San Salvador and around

centros obrajo, or workers’ centres, at El Tamarindo beach, Lago de Coatepeque,

La Palma and Puerto la Libertad. Recently constructed and nicer than they sound,
they are free of charge, provided you contact and visit the Ministerio de Trabajo (see
p.264) with your passport beforehand. They are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
and, like the turicentros, get very busy on weekends and holidays.

showers – don’t bring valuables – and Bus #103 (hourly) and pick-ups
a couple of comedores provide meals. If run from 4a Avenida Sur and Calle
you’re in a group and feel brave enough Hernández in Santa Tecla (reached
to ignore the warnings about robbers, via the La Libertad, Santa Ana and
the surrounding hills provide pleasant Sonsonate buses from Terminal de
walks. Occidente), to Pueblo del Boquerón,
Take bus #79 from 11a Avenida Sur 1km from the rim; the last bus down
and Calle Rubén Darío (every 15min; leaves mid-afternoon.
30min), or any Santa Ana bus from the
Terminal de Occidente, and ask to be Joya de Cerén
dropped at the gate. Some 9km northwest of Los Chorros,
the Maya and UNESCO World
Volcán San Salvador Heritage Site of Joya de Cerén (Tues–
North of Santa Tecla lie the heavily Sun 9am–4pm; US$2.85) may well be
cultivated slopes of dormant Volcán “the Pompeii of the Americas”. The
San Salvador (1960m), the fifth-highest site houses the remains of a village
volcano in the country. Its 540m-deep buried under more than six metres
crater El Boquerón (“Big Mouth”) has a of volcanic ash at the end of the sixth
beautiful floral floor and a smaller cone century and left untouched until its
created in the last eruption in 1917. accidental discovery in 1976. The site
From the well-kept park on the rim itself is small, protected behind cages
are impressive views of San Salvador, and will disappoint those accustomed
Lake Ilopango, Puerto del Diablo and to the photo opportunities offered
the crater’s interior; adventurers can by Maya edifices of Guatemala and
take on the walk around it (about 2hr) Honduras. It will, however, delight the
or down the wooded slopes inside (1hr anthropologically minded: finds here,
30min). Early morning is the best time including jars containing petrified
to go, when the views from the summit beans, utensils and ceramics, as well as
are clearest. You can also walk up to the discovery of gardens for growing
the crater, though robberies have been a wide range of plants, have helped
reported; the police at the entrance confirm a picture of a well-organized
may be willing to provide an escort for and stable pre-colonial society,
groups. with trade links throughout Central
270
America. As yet, no human remains station. From here take a left towards
have been uncovered, which concurs San Juan Opico; it is another 3km or
with the hasty departure suggested by so to Joya de Cerén. It is preferable to
the number of artefacts discovered. travel in a group.
A small, Spanish-language museum

el salvador
at the site details the development of Lago de Ilopango
the Maya culture and the excavation Heading east from San Salvador, the
project itself. Carretera Interamericana passes the
Bus #108 from San Salvador’s city’s dismal eastern slums and bends
Terminal de Occidente runs right by northwards. A few kilometres past the
the site – get off just after crossing the airport at Ilopango, a dirt road branches

San Salvador and around

Río Sucio. If you wish to go to San south and winds down through
Andrés (see below) in the same trip, scrubby hillsides, offering stunning
start here and take #108 back towards views across Lago de Ilopango to
San Salvador as far as the highway, the peaks of Volcán San Vicente. The
where you can intercept a #201 country’s largest and deepest crater
(towards Santa Ana from the Terminal lake, resulting from one of the biggest
de Occidente) to San Andrés. eruptions in history in around 250 AD,
Ilopango is a contrast of blue waters
San Andrés and tumbling, thickly vegetated cliffs.
A few kilometres southwest of Joya de Further along the road, in the dusty
Céren over lush undulations of agricul- hamlet of Apulo, the decent (but busy
tural land lies the Maya ceremonial at weekends) turicentro (daily 8am–
centre of San Andrés (Tues–Sun 9am– 5pm; US$0.80) has a beach, swimming
4.30pm; US$2.85). One of the largest pools and fine comedores. Small boats
pre-Columbian sites in El Salvador, tout for custom here (US$12/hr; reduc-
originally supporting a population of tions for groups), and drifting around
about twelve thousand, the site reached the Isla de Amor or touring the rich
its peak as the regional capital around lakeside communities is a pleasant
650–900 AD. Only sections of the way to spend a hot afternoon. The best
ceremonial centre have been excavated volcano diving in the country also
– seven major structures including a takes place under the surface of the
temple, altar and indigo works – and lake, on the underwater volcanic cone
sadly, they’ve been preserved using La Caldera. This should be organized
rather too liberal amounts of concrete. with El Salvador Divers (see p.264) in
You can climb freely around the site, the capital beforehand.
which is also a popular picnic spot at Bus #15 runs from the corner of
the weekends. A small, well-curated Calle 9 Pte and 1a Avenida Nte in San
museum (Spanish only) includes a good Salvador every half an hour or so.
model of what the site would have looked
like in the late first millenium. Los Planes de Renderos
The #201 bus between Terminal de Overlooking the Valle de Hamacas
Occidente and Santa Ana will drop you from the brim of the valley’s southern
by a black ruin on the highway a couple watershed, Los Planes de Renderos
of hundred metres from the site – you offers fresh air, good food and great
will need to tell the driver to stop. It’s views. The best panoramas of San
possible to walk to Joya de Cerén in the Salvador are from the Casa de Piedra
same trip. A path leads across the fields (Km 8.5), an open-fronted bar/restau-
behind San Andrés, coming out about rant serving seafood and típicos with
4km northeast at an abandoned railway weekend music or karaoke. Cheaper,
271
 though, is the mirador lookout point Bus #17 runs regularly to the town
off the road just before the restaurant from Avenida 29 de Agosto in San
as you come up the hill. Another great Salvador.
restaurant is the barn-like Pupusería
Paty (Km 10), which serves some of
el salvador

the best and biggest pupusas in the

country. The best views of the coast
are from the Puerta del Diablo, a split The Pacific
rock formation at the summit of the
Cerro Chulo, a 40min walk from the coast
road through the somewhat grubby
The Pacific coast

Parque Balboa turicentro (Km 12; El Salvador’s Pacific coast is a 300-

daily 8am–6pm; US$0.90). The rock’s kilometre sweep of sandy tropical
legendary origins – split by a bolt of beaches, dramatic cliffs, mangrove
lightning over three hundred years ago swamps and romantic islands. While the
– have been eclipsed by its very real tourist potential of many of the beaches
role in the civil war as a place of death is now being developed, most stretches
squad interrogations, executions and of sand are still, blissfully, a far cry from
body-dumping. international resorts. Indeed, the beauty
Bus #12 runs up the Carretera Los of this part of the country lies in relaxing
Planes, along which all kilometre on clean, wide beaches, catching world-
markers are given, from Avenida 29 de class waves or spending time in relatively
Agosto. If you don’t fancy walking to the untouched fishing villages.
Puerta del Diablo, you can take the bus Coming from San Salvador, the most
to the last stop, at Km 14. accessible stretch of coast is the Costa del
Bálsamo, extending around the small
Panchimalco fishing town of Puerto La Libertad. This
Further south, the largely indigenous stretch boasts some of Central America’s
town of Panchimalco lies sleepily best surfing beaches, and El Salvador’s
beneath the Puerta del Diablo. The biggest gringo community. Further
area was once widely inhabited by the down the coast are the green waterways
Panchos, descendants of the Pipils, and and islands of the mangrove swamps of
although a number still remain, tradi- the Bahía de Jiquilisco, as well as what
tional dress is rarely seen nowadays. many consider to be the finest beach
The town’s colonial church, built in in the country, Playa El Espino. In the
1725, is the oldest surviving church in extreme east of the region you can catch
the country and is also remarkable for early-morning lanchas to the tranquil
its depiction of Jesus. There are indig- islands of the Golfo de Fonseca, and
enous crafts for sale too, including away from faded La Unión.
pre-Hispanic musical instruments, at The beaches west of Acajutla are best
the Casa de la Cultura. Usually a quiet accessed via Sonsonate rather than
place, things become livelier during along the coastal road, and are thus
the town’s annual festivals (see p.255). covered beginning on p.307.

Pacific coast road trip

Along with Ruta de las Flores (see p.309) and the climb to Perquín (see p.295),
the Carretera Litoral, running the length of El Salvador’s Pacific coast, is one
of the country’s best road trips. Public transport runs regularly to many places
along the route. However, it’s still worth renting a car for a few days to reach
some of the more remote and beautiful beaches.
272
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The Pacific coast el salvador

273
 Puerto La Libertad What to see and do
Just 34km south of San Salvador,
PUERTO LA LIBERTAD (or just “El Defined by the small bay it is set on, La
Puerto”), once a major port and still an Libertad’s biggest attractions are in the
important, if shabby, fishing town, has sea. The main action occurs around the
el salvador

recently grown from surfing mecca to pier jutting out from the San Salvador
tourist junction thanks to its position bus stop. The market here sells a good
at the gateway to the Costa del Bálsamo. selection of fish fresh from the morning
It’s a popular place, particularly at the catch, both raw and cooked at lunch
weekends, when capital day-trippers (US$2–4). There’s a small turicentro
join the local and gringo surfers to enjoy opposite (daily 7am–5pm; US$0.90),
The Pacific coast

the food and sea breeze. Sadly, and with showers and changing rooms, but
despite the development, it has not yet the beach, Playa La Paz, is quite dirty,
shaken off the drug, delinquency and and becomes rocky and prone to rip-
gang problems that have long plagued tides in the rainy season.
it. At times the atmosphere can be tense The town’s heartbeat, however, is the
during the day, and becomes more world-famous Punta Roca surf break,
dangerous at night, so if you want to stay which tubes perfectly around the point a
along the coast you may want to head to couple of hundred metres to the west of
one of the surrounding beaches. the pier. This is not a beginner’s wave, and

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 Fishy pricing
Restaurant prices on El Salvador’s Pacific coast may seem inflated, but this is often
due to the value of the ingredients. The unmissable coastal speciality, a creamy
seafood soup called mariscada, contains crab, whole fish, langoustine and shrimp,

el salvador
is also one of the most expensive dishes – a good one is hard to find for under
US$8, and should be closer to US$10. Oysters should cost around US$5, and a
whole langoustine is hard to find for under US$10. It may seem like you’re being
overcharged, but the seafood is most likely very fresh, and you get what you pay for.

localism (local hostility to you sharing more), cable TV, kitchenette, refrigerator and internet,

The Pacific coast

their great surf spot) does exist – confron- and laundry available in the buiding. It’s in the most
tations are best avoided by hiring a local dangerous area of the hotels listed, but the accom-
modation itself is probably the best deal. 3
guide. Even if you don’t surf, it is exciting
Mango’s Lounge 4a C Pte between 1 & 3 Av Nte
just to go and watch experts take on the t2346-1626, wwww.puntamango.com. A great
wave in the morning and evening, or at cheap option. The basic rooms have TV, surf racks
any of the regular surf events held here. and optional a/c, and there are sofas and internet
Surfboards can be bought, sold, rented in the good communal lounge. They also provide
and repaired at the Hospital de Tablas, competitive board rental, tours and lessons. 4
on the corner of 3 Avenida Sur and 2a La Posada Familiar 3a Av Sur at C 4 Pte T2335-
Calle Pte (7am–4pm; US$12/day). If you 3252. Very friendly and popular place with basic
need to work on your surf skills before rooms, some with bath, all with outdoor hammocks.
They are just about the cheapest in town, but
hopping on a board, there are better
certainly not the cleanest. A small comedor serves
beaches along the coast to the west (see meals and you can see the sea from the roof
p.276). For sunbathers, the small and veranda. 2
busy Flores beach is a kilometre and a
half east, reachable by bus #82.
Eating and drinking
Arrival and information The dining-out scene in La Libertad is quite pricey
but varied, with an inevitable emphasis on seafood
By bus Services from San Salvador arrive at 4a (see box above). The more expensive restaurants are
C Ote, by the pier. Buses to and from the eastern gathered at the seafront at the western end of town,
beaches go from 4 Av Norte, on the other side of while savings can be made buying fish from the pier
the turicentro. Further up that road and left onto and supermarket lunches. The town gets unsafe at
1 C Ote is the stop for Sonsonate and the western night, so any drinking is best done at Punta Roca.
beaches. El Buen Asado 3 Av Nte, by C El Calvario. The pick
of the pupuserías, also serving good and sizeable
Accommodation bean, cheese and egg breakfasts (US$1.50).
Comedor Paty 2 Av Sur, by 2a C Ote. For huge
As a rule, the hotels on 5 Av Sur, on the west side juices (US$0.40) and típicos, this is your best choice
of the bay, are in the safest part of town, but also in town.
the most expensive. You are perfectly safe in other El Delphin 5 Av Sur, opposite Hotel Rick. A good
areas, but it is riskier to go out at night. If you’re seafood joint closer to town, serving heaps of paella
hoping to get a room on a holiday weekend, it’s (US$9) for dinner and shrimp omelettes (US$4) for
best to book in advance. breakfast in nice surroundings on the western point.
Hotel Rick 5a Av Sur #30 T 2335-3033. This Punta Roca 5 Av Sur t2335-4342, wwww
traditional surfers’ favourite is ideally located .puntaroca.com.sv. A local institution, after which
opposite Punta Roca. Rooms are all en-suite, with the break itself is named. There is hearty food with
towels, toilet roll, cable TV and room for boards. a western nod (gringo fry US$7), and it is downright
There’s a/c in some but a slightly musty smell in the best place for a Pilsener (US$1.25) in town.
others. 4 There used to, and there may yet again, be two
Hotel Surf Club Inn C 2 Pte #22 T2346-1104. good four-person rooms to rent above the restau-
Spacious en-suite rooms, with a/c options (US$8 rant – worth checking.
275
 before tourism took over as the main

treat yourself
La Dulce Vita Playa Las Flores, source of income. More and more
200m past the Shell station
expensive beach clubs are now popping
t 2335-3592. If you are going
to shell out for seafood, this
up, as international tourists gain confi-
is the best place in town to dence in El Salvador, but reasonable
el salvador

do it, with giant platters and accommodation and surfing communi-

excellently cooked langoustines ties still dominate. West of La Libertad,
(US$15). There are also large the Carretera Litoral ribbons through
pasta dishes for the energy- thickly wooded hills and tunnels to
drained surfer, all served to palm-fringed black beaches. To the east
great sea views.
the beaches are more disappointing,
The Pacific coast

infringed upon by the expansion of the

Directory town; the sole exception is the surfer-
free Playa San Diego, a quick escape
Exchange C Barrios, between 4 & 6 Av Nte. This from the intensity of La Libertad. All
is the only ATM along the Costa del Bálsamo, so kilometre distances given are for the
stock up. Carretera Litoral, along which there are
Internet Infocentro, 1a C Pte & 4 Av Nte (Mon–Sat
markers to help you out. La Libertad
8am–6pm; US$1/hr), also has internet call
capabilities.
is the transport hub for the area – see
Pharmacy Centro Médico Moises, C Barrios above for details of moving on from
(Mon–Fri 7am–6pm, Sat 7am–noon; t 2335-3531) that town.
is your best bet.
Post office 2a C Ote, between 2 & 4 Av Nte (Mon– Playa El Tunco
Fri 8am–noon & 12.45–4pm, Sat 8am–noon). The beaches just west of La Libertad
Supermarket Supermercado de Todos, C Barrios,
are crowded with people and resorts.
opposite the bank. It’s the only supermarket
along the Costa del Bálsamo, so stock up if you’re
Beyond these, at Km 42, Playa El
camping. Tunco has a much better atmosphere
Telephones Telecom (2a C Ote at 2 Av Sur) also and the best nightlife on the stretch.
has internet access. The beach here is pebble-strewn, but
the waves draw plenty of surfers and
Moving on it is a good spot for the inexperienced
to learn the sport. A single road leads
By bus to: La Perla, via all beaches including El down from the Carretera through the
Zonte and Km 59 (#192; twice hourly; 1hr 30min); village to a fork; a right here leads to
Playa San Diego, via Playa Las Flores and Parque
the beachfront, with an array of surf
Walter Deininger (#80; twice hourly; 15min); Playa
El Sunzal, via El Tunco (#80A/B; twice hourly; shops (expect to pay US$10 for a day’s
40min); San Salvador, Terminal de Occidente (#102; board rental and US$10 for an hour’s
very frequent; 1hr); Sonsonate, via all beaches to lesson; bodyboards are also available
the west (#287; 7 daily; 2hr 30min); Zacatecoluca for US$4/hr and US$8/day), and a left
(#540; 7 daily; 1hr 20min) – change at Comalapa takes you parallel to the beach.
for the Costa del Sol. You won’t have a problem finding a
place to eat. On the beach, Restaurante La
COSta del Bálsamo Bocana serves huge seafood platters and
Strung out on either side of Puerto ice-cold beers, accompanied by sporadic
La Libertad is the COSTA DEL live music. The next-door comedor has
BÁLSAMO, a favourite destination similar fare, and also shows DVDs. Go to
for surfers and day-trippers from the ritzy Hotel Roca Sunzal, on the other side,
capital. The coast takes its name from only to eat mariscada (US$10); eating a
the now-defunct trade in medicinal meal here will allow you a few hours on
balsam that was once centred here, their luxury poolside loungers.
276
 Lining the estuary is a smattering of Playa El Zonte
good accommodation: Papayas (2 ) is Down a track just beyond the bridge at
the best value, with good communal Km 53, the small, surfer-dominated
space, including a treehouse-like roof Playa El Zonte is a real gem, set apart
terrace, a kitchen, DVDs and books. by its stunning location between two

el salvador
If that’s full, Mangle, next door (4 ), high headlands and its friendly
is similar in character though slightly community vibe. Volcanic sands cover
more expensive. Spare a thought for the beach in the dry season, but recede
the monkey on a chain in the back, as the waves grow from March to
however, and don’t use the internet: October. The surf here is harder going
it is fifty cents cheaper just across the for beginners than Sunzal and Tunco,

The Pacific coast

road. For brand new, spotless rooms, better suiting those who are inter�
a pool and huge showers, check out mediate and above. However, this is no
the Tunco Lodge (4 ), opposite, while reason for non-surfers to avoid it, as
campers have a rare opportunity in anyone can enjoy the surroundings,
Roots, along the road parallel to the swim and join evening games of
beach (1 ), which has its own tents to football. Hotel and restaurant Estancia
lend out and hosts renowned Saturday Nativa, situated on the right as you
night beach parties. Remember not to reach the beach (t 2302-6258; 3 ),
stray too far from the party at these has pleasant rooms around a yard
events, as muggings have occurred on containing a pool, bar and pizza
the beach. restaurant, as well as hammocks,
plenty of reading material and a table
Playa El Sunzal football table. The owner, Alex, really
Wading across an ankle-deep estuary knows his surfing and will organize
from El Tunco takes you to the long rental (US$10/day) and surf lessons
and wide black-sands of Playa El (US$10/hr).
Sunzal (road access at Km 44.5). For The comedor opposite Estancia Nativa
surfing, this is the best learners’ beach on the beach does good cheap burgers
in the country, with long, uncrowded (US$2), but the best food is at Costa
breaks. It’s also good for sun-bathing, Brava, high on the cliffs at the western
swimming and general playing on the end of the beach. The owner is a cable
beach. While this is all easily accessible TV chef and local celebrity, in view
from Tunco (and Tunco’s surf shops are of which his big breakfasts (US$3)
accessible from here), the atmosphere
staying here offers a distinctly more laid-
treat yourself

El Dorado Surf Resort

back alternative to its neighbour. Just off
Playa El Zonte t7226-6166,
the Carretera on the beach, Surfer’s Inn wwww.surfeldorado.com.
has well-shaded camping 1 ) and basic, There is a great atmosphere
concrete en-suite rooms (3 ) with access running through this top-notch
to a kitchen and fridge. Across the road, surfer haven with spotless,
Ciber Fox (8am–8pm; US$1/hr) has comfortable rooms, starting
the fastest internet around, and San with welcoming Quebecois
Patricio (3 ) has slightly more comfort- owners Olly and Ben. Surfers
able rooms with a splash pool. There is (and non-surfers) will find
everything they need – board hire,
a string of comedores by the roadside.
lessons, longboard skateboards,
El Sunzalito does good breakfasts even a training pool – and the staff
(US$1.25), and Rancho Gladymar, will even help guests plan the rest
right on the beach, does a filling US$3 of their travels in the country. One of
chicken, onion and tortilla meal and has the country’s best treats. 7
US$1 beers.
277
 and excellent seafood dishes (US$6) Parque Nacional Walter
are great value. He will also organize Deininger
trips to his turtle sanctuary in the dry A little further east along the Carretera
season. Litoral, the Parque Nacional Walter
Deininger makes a welcome alterna-
el salvador

Playa San Diego tive to beach pursuits. An extensive

Five kilometres east from La Libertad, stretch of dry forest, it is home to a
the beautiful Playa San Diego, with range of flora and fauna, including
its clean, light and seemingly endless deer, falcons, racoons and the torogoz,
stretch of sand, is deserted during the the national bird. There’s an 18km trail
week except for a few fishermen. A through the park, though shorter routes
The Pacific coast

turtle-nesting reserve has recently can be taken. Entry is US$0.80, but

been set up here to help protect these a guide must accompany you at a fee
endangered species. Views to the sea of US$11.50, so try to go in groups to
from the road behind the beach are reduce costs. Technically, you should
blocked by ranks of private homes also get permission from ISTU in San
behind locked gates, but if you get Salvador (see p.264) before coming out
off the bus outside the San Diego here, but pleading ignorance has been
Beach restaurant, there’s a path just to known to work.
the left of the nearby Hotel Villa del
Pacífico that leads down to the sand. Zacatecoluca
The cheap accommodation options are East of Playa San Diego, the Carretera
pretty poor; if you are set on staying Litoral swings inland to the small
the night, the Hotel Villa del Pacífico pre-Columbian, Nonualco city of
(T 2345 5681; 5 ) has a/c rooms with ZACATECOLUCA, or Zacate, as it is
bath, plus a restaurant and a pool set known. Though it peacefully endured
in manicured gardens right by the Spanish rule, it had a key role in 1833
beach. There are better eating options, in the indigenous revolt against El
including La Fincita de Don Juan, 1a C Salvador’s newly independent rule, led
Pasaje #16, serving good-value chicken by Anastasio Aquino from Santiago
and steaks (US$3–5) as well as the Nonualco. Supported both by local
obligatory fish dishes. The Costa Brava tribes and poor mestizos, and meeting
has similar prices and fare, and two with little effective resistance, Aquino at
swimming pools as well. El Pijon, at the one point looked capable of marching
eastern end of the beach road, is a good on and taking the capital. Instead, his
spot for a beer. army contented itself with sacking

El Salvador’s best hidden breaks

Going west beyond El Zonte along the Carretera Litoral are three more great
and often empty surfing spots. Km 59, a right-hand beach and point break,
tubing when big (though poor at low tide), is often compared to Punta Roca, but
without the crowds. Around the corner, Km 61 gives equally empty long breaks for
longboarders. Further along, Playa Mizata at Km 87 is a wave machine, with point
and beach breaks going right and left. All three can be reached on the #197 or #287
buses from La Libertad.
In the east of the country, Playa Las Flores (not to be confused with the Las
Flores right next to La Libertad) has sandy right-hand point breaks, but far more
special is Punta Mango, unreachable by car; boat trips here can be organized at
Mango’s Lounge in La Libertad (see p.275; w www.puntamango.com).

278
Zacatecoluca before moving on to San decent vegetarian cooking on offer. Caramel boule
Vicente, giving government forces time US$0.35.
to regroup. Today it is a pleasant place to Verona’s Pizza Off C Dr Molina. Freshly made
crusty pizzas (US$5 regular size) in a very clean,
lazily pass the time, though there is little
white restaurant in an alley off the park. They’re
to occupy go-getters here.

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open 9am–8pm, if you want pizza for breakfast.

What to see and do Moving on

Apart from its big daily market, there’s By bus to: Costa del Sol, via all beaches to La
little of interest in Zacatecoluca except Puntilla (#193; twice hourly; 1hr 30min); La
its proximity to the nearby beaches. Libertad (#540; 7 daily; 2hr); San Salvador, Terminal

The Pacific coast

The impressive, whitewashed Moorish del Sur (#133; every 15min; 1hr); San Vicente
Catedral Santa Lucía has good roof (#177; every 15min; 1hr); Usulután (#302; twice
frescoes along with the usual doll-like hourly; 1hr 30min).
statues. In front of the church stands
a monument to the city’s most famous Costa del Sol
son, José Simeon Cañas, the man Due south of Zacatecoluca lies El Salva-
responsible for the abolition of slavery dor’s premier beach playground, the
across Central America. The cathedral COSTA DEL SOL, a fifteen-kilometre
is somewhat strangled by the jumble of peninsula with a strip of palm-fringed
market stalls around it, but if a priest is beaches on the southern side. The clean
around he may let you climb the tower expanses of sand here are good for
to see the marvellous views over the swimming, but guarded by a wall of
town and its volcano. development built seemingly to force
you through a pay-to-enter beach resort
Arrival to gain access. This and the widespread
artificial price inflation might lead you
By bus Buses arrive and depart from the bus
station four blocks south of the Parque Central on
to believe that this is an area that does
Av J.V. Villacorte, except the Usulután bus, which not wish to accommodate travellers on a
stops only on the Carretera Litoral, two blocks budget, but there are some exceptions.
further south.
San Marcelino and Playa
Accommodation Costa del Sol
Behind Playa San Marcelino, the first
Hotel Brolyn Av J.V. Villacorta #24 T2334-1084. beach along the strip, the rather plush
A cheap option all round – the owner may proudly
Costa del Sol Club has swimming pools,
show you the switch that turns your cable into fuzzy
pornography – but it’s clean, en suite, has new
sports facilities and a restaurant – try
mattresses and offers a/c. 2 negotiating at the gate to be allowed in
Primavera Av J.V. Villacorta #20 T2334-1346. for the day. For an easier route to the
Tidy rooms with good mattresses, bath, hammock water, continue some 3km east to Playa
and internet, plus a small pool, Jacuzzi and table Costa del Sol, where a turicentro (daily
tennis are all available here. 3 7am–6pm; US$0.90) rents cabañas
for the day and has a couple of small
Eating restaurants.
Golden Gate 5a C Ote between Av J.M. Delgado
Playa Los Blancos
& Av J.V. Villacorta. A decent and cheap Chinese
restaurant by the bus station. Noodles US$1. A few kilometres further on, at Km
Sorbetería Estrella Polar Av N Monterrey and 64, is Playa Los Blancos and the Mini
5a C Ote. Home-made ice cream draws young Hotel y Restaurante Mila (t 2338-2074;
Zacatecolucans here on dates, but there’s also 3 ), the area’s best deal, with small but
279
 comfortable rooms, a swimming pool the volcano of the same name. Much
and beach access. About 50m before it, like Zacatecoluca, it holds little interest
Hotel Haydee Mar (t 2338-2046; 3 ) has except as a transit point on the route to
two pools and matches the price, but is the Bahía de Jiquilisco, or a stepping
haunted by a deadly sense of kitsch. The stone on the journey further east; even
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nameless comedor just past Hotel Mila the Carretera Litoral seems to bypass
(fifth along the row of eateries in the it, branching off through the centre
middle of the road) does good burgers and reforming again at its extremi-
and stays open until late for fair-priced ties. At the eastern fork, market stalls
beers. invade the tarmac; buses arrive and
depart from here. The westbound lane
The Pacific coast

La Puntilla then takes the name Calle Grimaldi as

At the far eastern tip of the Costa del it heads to the centre of town, passing
Sol, La Puntilla is an attractive array of through the neatly pruned Parque
thatch and bamboo beach settlements Central six blocks west.
with a great view across the mouth of Should you wish to stay, La Posada del
the Estero de Jaltepeque. A boat trip Viajero (T 2662-0217; 2 ), close to the
around the Estero is really the highlight centre on Calle 6 Ote between 2a and 4a
of this section of coast. Lancha owners Avenida Nte, is clean and friendly, with
run trips from La Puntilla across to the decent mattresses. Tortas Lito’s on Calle
Isla de Tasajera, around the mangrove Dr F Penado by 1 Avenida Nte has a
swamps of the Estero and up the Río good selection of big Mexican tacos and
Lempa. You’ll be approached by touts as enchiladas and is open until 8pm.
soon as you step off the bus, but don’t Moving on, buses go from Usulután
let yourself be led to a boat or you’ll pay to: Playa El Espino (#351; 7 daily;
the “agent’s” commission. It’s better to 1hr 30min); Puerto El Triunfo (#363;
go hunt a boat down yourself; it should frequent; 1hr); San Miguel (#373;
cost about US$20, so try to get a group frequent; 1hr 40min); San Salvador
together to reduce costs. (#302; frequent; 2hr 30min); San Vicente
There is cheap lodging here, but it is (#417; 6 daily; 2hr); Santiago de Maria,
largely shockingly bad. Rancho Playa for transfers to Alegría (#392C, #35,
Dorada, at the end of the road (t 7141- #348 or #349; very frequent; 45min).
8784; 2 ), is the best of what’s available:
the good comida (US$4 coctele), kind the eastern beaches
service and new pool compensate for Wider and wilder than their western
the prison-like rooms and seatless toilet. counterparts, the eastern beaches seem
While at La Puntilla, it is well worth to be over-visited by Salvadoreños at the
having seafood or oysters (US$5–8) weekend but under-visited by travel-
while enjoying the views from the raised lers during the week. The exception
platform of Raphael Antonio, but check is El Cuco, where the busy beachside
that they are in season. You can’t miss community is supplemented by large
the restaurant: it’s the only two-storey annual doses of surfers during the wet
platform there. season. The whole stretch, however,
offers you the chance to stay in beautiful
Usulután surroundings where you are unlikely to
East of Zacatecoluca, the Carretera see another traveller for days on end.
Litoral crosses the Río Lempa at San
Marcos Lempa before running through Puerto El Triunfo
lush, green coffee country to the city of About 20km southwest of Usulután,
USULUTÁN, on the southern slopes of down a road lined with sugar-cane
280
fields, is Puerto El Triunfo, a sketchy five in their a/c and en-suite rooms
port set on the north shore of the Bahía – with use of a kitchen – including one
de Jiquilisco, separated from the ocean in an indoor hammock; Hotel Arcos del
by the San Juan del Gozo peninsula. Espino (T 2608-0785; 7 ) has a/c, en-
Formed by coastal mangrove swamps, suite, spotless rooms and toilets, around

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the beautiful bay features 12km of a crystal-clear pool for four people. The
waterways and a number of islands. A solo traveller needn’t fear, though, as
long, fine sandy beach forms the ocean Rancho de Don Francisco, on the other
side of the peninsula, while floating side of the beach, rents out hammocks
platforms can be swum to from the bay- (2 ) to sleep under the stars. Book the
side beach. hotels ahead at weekends.

The Pacific coast

Passenger boats (US$2) cross to A whole host of comedores and basic
El Icaco on Corral de Mulas on the restaurants sell similar fare, though
peninsula, leaving when full, which prices for seafood are high and the
happens much more regularly in the quality is mixed. Try El Pacífico on the
early morning; if you miss these, renting eastern side of the beach for fried fish
a boat can be costly – expect to pay up (US$3–8) and a beer on their relaxed
to US$35. It is also a great place to walk and elevated terrace. On the western
and chat to locals. Other than the Islas side, the wicker barn of Restaurant
de Golfo de Fonseca, Corral de Mulas y Bar Bambú has cheaper food and
offers the best opportunity to engage in karaoke, though it is only open Fridays
real Salvadoran life; as well as camping to Sundays.
you can ask to stay with a family when Two buses go to Usulután (#351 &
here. In both cases ask at the alcaldía #358B, changing at Jucurán to #358; 7
and they will help you out. Otherwise, daily, last one back at 4pm).
the small, grubby El Jardín (t 2663-
6089; 3 ) between the pier and the bus Playa El Cuco
station in Puerto El Triunfo, is a decent Thirty kilometres east of Usulután the
plan B. Carretera Litoral turns south, winding
From Puerto El Triunfo, bus #363 up through glorious mountain views
makes the one-hour trip to Usulután before descending again towards the
every ten minutes. For San Salvador east’s most famous beach community,
take the #185 (6 daily; 2hr) and for Playa El Cuco. The village itself is
San Miguel go by the #377 (every rather ugly and manic, with a beach-
40min; 3hr). front crowded by tourism opportunists.
The beaches to either side, however, are
Playa El Espino fantastic: the 300m breaks at Las Flores
At the far eastern end of the Bahía de to the west and the wide and empty
Jiquilisco is one of El Salvador’s finest peace of El Esterón to the east.
beaches, Playa El Espino. The once- Accommodation in the town is
remote beach has been developed, with terrible, but there are good options to
a 26km paved road from the Carretera the east. The best by far are two flats
Litoral opening it up to visitors. Sadly, for rent in El Esterón, at the end of the
some of this redevelopment has taken a road running behind the beach. The
distinctly garish aspect. The beach itself smaller sleeps two in a simple room
remains a singular beauty, however, and with bed, fan, window and bathroom
the water is bathtub-warm. next door (3 ), but the spacious larger
It is best to be in a group of four or five flat (4 ), intended for four, has a fully
to stay cheaply on Espino: Natali (7 ), to equipped kitchen roof terrace with
the right as you reach the beach, takes hammocks and chairs overlooking the
281
 beach. Reserve them with local surf Torentinos, overlooking the parque on
godmother Joan (t 7789-6312), who the southwestern corner.
has spare mattresses if needed. Closer Buses run direct to La Unión (#339;
to town along the stretch, the beach- 8 daily; 1hr 30min), passing beaches
fronted Cucolindo is the other decent further east, and from the highway to
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budget option, with clean rooms (4 ). San Miguel (#385; twice hourly; 1hr
Joan also feeds weary surfers in a 30min), passing the turning to El Cuco.
restaurant run from a summer house in Buses and pick-ups also go direct to
her plant nursery in Esterón. The sign El Esterón (10min) or the highway
outside says Federicos, but it’s known as (5min).
Rasta Pasta, as she serves lasagnas, canel-
The Pacific coast

lonis and pastas (US$8) to the sound of Playa Las Tunas and Playa
reggae (Fri–Sun only). The unnamed El Tamarindo
comedor at the end of the beach road Further east along the Carretera,
and down the right-hand cul-de-sac past the featureless Playa El Icacal,
has a tradition of excellent fish, bettered another turn-off heads along a tooth-
only by the fish fried (US$2) on the stall like peninsula pointing out across the
on the left as you approach the end of the mouth of the Golfo de Fonseca. Playa
beach road, known as La Gimelos. Fresh Las Tunas is the first beach that you
fish should be bought from the El Cuco encounter, with a fine dark sand beach
co-operative, in El Cuco village, where and tides that wash right up into the
there is also internet in the Centro de village. It has a friendly atmosphere
Internet on the main Plaza (US$1/hr). to it, and, budget-wise, it is your best
Playa El Cuco is accessible by direct option for accommodation on a beach
bus (#320; twice hourly; 1hr 30min) between Cuco and La Unión. There’s a
from the terminal in San Miguel. The small village here with several restau-
ride is one of the finest bus journeys in rants, the highlight of which is the
the country, with spectacular views of Rancho Las Tunas (t 2526-5542), not
the valleys and the ineffable Volcán San only perched on a rock with water
Miguel; sit on the right side of the bus rushing around it at high tide, but also
on the way to El Cuco for the best view. the best place for oysters (US$5) in the
For La Unión transfer at El Delirio. area. They also have two overpriced
rooms (5 ) on the beachside. Otherwise,
Intipucá Hotel Restaurant Buenos Aires (T 2681-
Beyond El Cuco, the highway runs 5581; 6 ), at the bend in the road a few
parallel to the coastline, passing a yards past the village entrance, has
turn-off for the spotless little town basic, air-�conditioned rooms and good
of Intipucá. More Intipucans live in grilled fish (US$3–5) served in the
Washington, DC than in Intipucá, and restaurant.
remittances per head here are more than The final beach on the peninsula,
any other place in the country. This is Playa El Tamarindo, is a panorama-
evident: relaxed, safe and entirely paved, lover’s dream. The huge golden arc of
with phonebooths and moneywire sand, backed by uninterrupted palm
companies encircling the plush Parque trees, curves around the mountainous
Central, it would be a perfect place to bay; sitting beneath the Volcán de
stay – if there was a hotel. It’s worth Conchagua, the islands of the Golfo de
having a look nonetheless, as the Fonseca loom large, and in the distance
town is starting to awaken to tourism. the mountainsides of Honduras
There is a good Italian (spaghetti are clearly visible. The only accom-
Bolognese US$5) and típicos restaurant, modation here, the Tropitamarindo
282
(T 2649-5082; 8 ), is too pricey for
what are little more than standard
Accommodation
mid-range rooms, but they will let you El Dorado C San Carlos & 2a Av Nte t2604-4724.
use the pool and loungers if you spend The price and the pleasant, mango tree-filled
US$10, so it’s a good spot for beers and courtyard will easily compensate for the soft

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food. mattresses and tatty en-suite bathrooms. There are
Buses to La Unión run along the fans and hammocks in the rooms and you can ask
peninsula, passing through Las Tunas for extra beds to cram in economically. 2
Portobello 4a Av Nte at C 1 Pte T 2604-4115.
as well (#383; three hourly); the last one
The best value a/c rooms in a very hot town are
back leaves at 5pm. For a much more here, right in the thick of it. Large, clean rooms
interesting shortcut to El Tamarindo, with partitioned baths in the rooms and good

The Pacific coast

take a boat from the pier at El Embar- beds. 4
cadero (US$0.25) on the Carretera San Francisco C Menéndez between 9a & 11a Av
Litoral. Sur T2604-4159. Away from the hubbub, clean
and spacious. Some rooms have balconies and all
La Unión have en suite and cable. 3 –5

The port town of LA UNIÓN sits in a

stunning location on a bay on the edge Eating and drinking
of the Golfo de Fonseca. Faded since its Captain John’s 3a Av Sur & C 4 Ote. The captain
glory days of colonial naval trade, La is proprietor of a pleasant outdoor terrace, where a
Unión’s web of low white houses crumble wide choice of fish steaks, including marlin, sailfish
a little further every day in the ferocious and wahoo, are served in huge portions. Try the
heat. The streets are rather depressing, tazón de sopa de pescado (US$4).
and even the Parque Central, swamped Las Lunas 3a Av Nte by the pier. A good spot for
a beer (US$1) by the water’s edge. It has karaoke
by dilapidated market stalls selling cheap
most nights and bands play on occasional Sat.
merchandise, lacks the character of other
Maurita’s C 3 Pte at Av Cabañas. The closest you’ll
city squares. The new deep-sea port at come to a pavement café, with a large covered
Puerto Cutuco, the largest Pacific port veranda from which to watch the street activity. The
in Central America, virtually contig- local favourite serves seafood, ceviche (US$3.50)
uous with La Unión, has yet to bring and your typical típicos.
the industry and prosperity it promises. El Viajero C Menéndez, just off the Parque. A
Until it does – though there are no cavernous comedor next to the supermarket. Best
guarantees – the atmosphere around the for coffee, egg, cheese and bean cooked breakfasts
(US$1.50).
town is unpleasant. As the beaches to the
south and the border to the north are
just as accessible from the cooler and less Directory
threatening San Miguel, the main reason Exchange Banco Agrícola, C 1 Pte & Av General
for passing would be a visit to the isolated Cabañas, or Scotiabank, 1a Av Nte on the Parque,
islands of the Golfo de Fonseca. both change money.
Immigration At Av Cabañas at 7 C Pte (t 2604-
Arrival 4375). Ask here about the party boat to Honduras
(see box, p.284) and the planned ferry service to
By boat Lanchas from the islands of the Golfo Nicaragua from the new port.
de Fonseca arrive on the pier jutting out from the Internet Meg@byte, C 1 Pte between 2a & 4a Av
northern end of 3a Av Nte. Nte, is the cheapest and latest opening of the bunch
By bus The main bus terminal is on C 3 Pte, 4a–6a around here (US$0.70–1/hr).
Av Nte, two blocks west and one north of the Supermarket The large Dispensa Familiar, on the
Parque Central. If you’re travelling from the coastal southeast corner of the Parque, is open every day
highway, you will need the Terminal Los Cantones, until 6 or 7pm.
two blocks south and one block west of the main Telephone Telecom is on C 1 Ote at 5a Av Nte, two
terminal, on C San Carlos. blocks east of the Parque.
283
 you can see fairer, blue-eyed, pirate
Moving on descendants throughout the islands’
By boat to: Isla Meanguera (once daily; 1hr 30min); inhabitants, and rumour has it that Sir
Isla Zacatillo (once daily; 30min). Francis Drake buried a stash of Spanish
By bus Buses from the Terminal los Cantones go silver while at anchor on Meanguera.
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to: Conchagua (#382; 4 daily; 30min); El Tamarindo, There are still plenty of secluded coves
via El Embarcada and Las Tunas (#383; every to explore, as well as good swimming
20min; 1hr 30min); Intipucá (#339; 8 daily; 1hr and boundless scope for hiking. For
15min). Buses from main bus terminal go to: San
fantastic views of the surroundings,
Miguel (#324; very frequent; 1hr 30min); San
climb Cerro de Evaristo, the highest
Salvador (#304; twice hourly; 4hr); Santa Rosa de
Lima (#342; every 15min; 1hr 30min) – change peak on Meanguera. The best beach
The Pacific coast

here for the Honduran border at El Amatillo. There on the islands, El Majahual, is also on
are also luxury buses to: San Miguel (three between Meanguera. Wide, secluded and black
5.45–6.45am & 4.15pm; 1hr) and San Salvador sand, it can be reached on foot in 45
(4am, 6am & 12.30pm; 3hr). minutes by the road south of town and
the track it turns into, or by boat in ten
Around La Unión minutes if you can persuade a lancha
La Unión’s surrounding attractions owner. For bird lovers, the small out-
– namely, the islands of the Golfo de lying Isla Meanguerita can only be
Fonseca – put its heat and anti-social reached by lancha.
hallmarks into quite some relief. If
Island transport
you visit the tranquil and rustic Isla Morning ferries leave from La Unión for Meanguera
Meanguera you will have to spend the (US$2.50) and Zacatillo (US$2) between 10 and
night in one of its good hotels because 11am. The only ferry back from Meanguera departs
of ferry times, but you will doubtless at 5am, so unless you plan to charter a private boat
want to do that anyway. you will have to stay overnight. Local boatmen will
rent out a lancha for the day at a non-negotiable
Islas del Golfo de Fonseca US$70 per boatload, though you can commandeer
one on the islands for a little less. Really quite
Four delightfully secluded islands –
alternatively, a party boat (t2604-2222) leaves
Conchagüita, Martín Pérez, Meanguera La Unión at 10am on Sat & Sun with plenty of
and Zacatillo – sit out in the Golfo de beer, a karaoke machine and a fairly lame pool. It
Fonseca under the stewardship of El rarely stops at the islands, but you can enjoy the
Salvador. Conchagüita was sacked by breathless gulf views from the devil-may-care
English pirates in 1682 and the island atmosphere aboard.
remained deserted until the 1920s,
when settlers finally began moving Accommodation and
back. In its centre, on the Cerro del eating
The smaller islands – Conchagüita, Zacatillo and
Pueblo Viejo, are the remains of a tiny Martín Pérez – have no accommodation options,
pre-Columbian settlement; a path to but Meanguera is a terrific getaway spot. There are
the north of the ruins leads up to a two good hotels here, with little difference between
large rock bearing engravings that some them: the pretty El Mirador (T 2648-0072; 3 )
believe is a map of the gulf. Even now has spotless rooms with hard mattresses, en-suite

into honduras by party boat

One Saturday a month the party boat sets off at 8.30am on a longer tour that stops
at Amapala, on the Honduran island of El Tigre. From here, regular ferries make the
trip back to Coyolitos on the mainland. To use this route, ask the tour company
ahead (t 2604-2222), and visit the immigration office in La Unión on Av Cabañas
at 7 C Pte (t 2604-4375).
284
baths, cable TV and perhaps a fractionally better damaged San Vicente and bustling San
view; El Paraíso (t2648-0145; 3 ) has older Miguel create a wealth that contrasts
rooms, cable TV and en-suite baths with the elusive cruelly with the rural poverty found
hot-water shower. They’re close enough together to
further north. Along the Ruta de la
compare, and both have great seafood restaurants
Paz, refugees from communities devas-

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with shellfish under US$4. Otherwise, comedores in
the village serve fresh seafood, delivered daily by a tated by the civil war – this region saw
colourful fishing fleet that floats in the bay. the worst of the fighting – have in the
last decade and a half returned to try
Conchagua and pick up the pieces in this wild and
Looming to the south of La Unión is beautiful area, but their struggle with
Volcán Conchagua (1243m), with poverty is often painfully apparent.

The east
beautiful views across the gulf to Around San Vicente are several
Nicaragua and Honduras. The friendly delightful villages, including the flower-
village of Conchagua, sitting on its filled mountain town of Alegría and
northern slopes, was founded by the the brilliant pottery centre of Guate-
inhabitants of Conchagüita at the end of jiagua. Buses head north along the
the seventeenth century. The climate is mountainous Ruta de la Paz to the
fresher here, a pleasant relief from the former guerrilla stronghold of Perquín,
heat of La Unión, and walks around the with its terrific war museum, and the
village let you enjoy the scenery and haunting and unmissably sad village of
possibly get chatting to the townsfolk. Mozote, scene of a horrific massacre.
From Conchagua pick-ups will take
you to the lookout point up the volcano,
Cojutepeque
where there are short and long walking Past Lago de Ilopango to the east, the
routes, camping (1 ) and simple accom- Carretera Interamericana flies past
modation with shared bathrooms (2 ) the up-and-coming Sunday retreat of
at a spectacular spot near the summit of COJUTEPEQUE. There’s little to see in
the volcano. Take bus #382A from the the actual town, but half-an-hour’s walk
Terminal los Cantones in La Unión; it up the Cerro de las Pavas to the south is
leaves five times a day and takes fifteen the shrine of the Virgen de Fátima of
minutes. Portugal, a statue brought here in 1949
that attracts worshippers from across
the region. For those who also worship
food, a Sunday food festival to rival

The east
Juayúa’s weekend festival (see p.310) has
successfully been set up on the Cerro,
under the backdrop of the summit’s
The rough and wild terrain of eastern imperious views over Lago de Ilopango.
El Salvador remained relatively There is also a zoo here with spider-
unexplored territory for the pre- monkeys and turkeys (the animal after
Columbian Pipils, who did not venture which the town and hill are named);
far beyond the natural frontier of the Río animal lovers may not want to visit the
Lempa into this land of lofty volcanoes, cramped cages, though. Bus #113 goes
hot plains and mountain ranges. As a to San Salvador (frequent; 2hr) – get off
result, its Lenca inhabitants developed on the highway for #301 to San Miguel
their society in isolation from the west, or other services to towns further east.
and it was only with some difficulty that
the Spanish conquered this frontier. ILOBASCO
Today, coffee production around the Some 6km beyond Cojutepeque, a road
region’s major cities, the earthquake branches north off the highway through
285
 beautiful rolling countryside to the San Vicente
small town of ILOBASCO, noted for its SAN VICENTE was founded in
brightly painted earthenware decorated 1635 by fifty local Spanish families in
with animals and everyday scenes. The accordance with the 1600 Law of the
town’s hallmark pieces are known as Indies, which prohibited the Spanish
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sorpresas (surprises) – detailed scenes from living among the indigenous

of village life contained in small, clay people. This division brought violence
shells like humble Fabergé eggs. The to the city in 1833, when the forces of
government arts organization Cedart, Anastasio Aquino, leader of a Nonualco
on Avenida Bonilla, has a small exhibi- indigenous uprising, stormed the city.
tion on the evolution of ceramic art in “Inebriated with alcohol and success”,
The east

the town, and a collection of products they removed the crown from the
in its shop; they’ll direct you to a potter statue of San José in the Iglesia El Pilar
you like, or you can just stroll around and crowned Aquino “Emperor of the
and look in. Further down the avenida, Nonualcos”. The rebels then returned to
Italyan Pizza cooks much better than it Santiago Nonualco, some 30km away;
spells, with good Mexican fare as well as here, Aquino was captured by govern-
pizzas (US$4). If you have to stay, Hotel ment forces on April 23 and later
Ilobasco, 4a C Pte (t 2332-2563; 4 ) is sent back to San Vicente and hanged.
friendly, though tatty and overpriced. Notwithstanding several guerrilla
Bus #111 (frequent; 1hr 30min) is the attacks in the 1980s, nowadays San
nominal service to San Salvador, but Vicente is a calm, low-slung city with a
from the highway you can catch the rich agricultural area producing sugar
quicker #301 to destinations along it in cane, cotton and coffee. The town still
either direction. has a conspicuous military presence
– the town barracks are at the south-
SAN SEBASTIÆN western corner of the Parque Central
Between Ilobasco and San Vicente, – rivalled only by the number of
a paved road leads off the Intera- American Peace Corps trainees, who
mericana to the small village of come here to prepare for forthcoming
SAN SEBASTIÁN, famous for its missions.
hammocks, patterned cloth sheets and
bedspreads. The first place to start What to see and do
learning about the traditions and mind-
bending patience involved in the town’s The centrepiece of the Parque Central
chosen craft is the Casa de la Cultura is the Torre Kiosko, an eye-catching
on Calle Molina, though information open-fronted clock tower. Resem-
and opening hours are limited. Several bling a miniature Eiffel Tower, it
weaving shops around town will let was actually inspired by the Parisian
you watch the goods being produced monument. Although climbing atop it
on simple wooden looms, though you is no longer permitted (the 2001 earth-
will be pressured into buying. One quake rendered it rather lame), it is still
of the oldest and best shops is Casa ticking.
Durán, just off C Molina on 12a Av Two blocks south of the Parque on
Nte. Soft hammocks are the prize item Avenida María de los Angeles is the
in town; compare prices and materials, Iglesia El Pilar, built in 1769 on the site
then bargain before handing over any where a miraculous shaking statue of the
money. Bus #110 goes to San Salvador Virgin Mary persuaded one Manuela
twice hourly and #176 goes to San Arce not to stab her husband, or so it’s
Vicente four times a day. told. Now restored after the earthquake
286
damage, you can enter the building. The (hamburgers, tacos, pizzas; US$5) in a nice venue
statue of San José, complete with crown, with wooden tables.
stands in a glass case behind the altar as Pupusería Thea 1a Av Sur #68. A pretty place,
with fairies on the walls, that is slightly marred
you walk in.
by the greedy owner. Her best treats, though
An extensive market stretches over

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expensive, are worth it for their eccentricity:
several streets to the west of the big “golden nuggets” (US$8), and a steaming home-
green army barracks. In most respects made brew, known as “gloín” (US$3.50).
pretty much like any other market, this Rivoly’s On 1a Av Sur. A real treat of a comedor
one also sells the famous hammocks a la vista with big, fresh and tasty meat meals
made in nearby towns such as San (chicken con arosa US$2.30) on spick-and-span
Sebastián, adding a notable splash of orange tables. It also has good breakfasts, so no

The east
colour to the town. need to stray.

Arrival Directory
By bus The station is on C 8 Pte and 15a Av Sur, Exchange Banco Agrícola on the Parque, and
a long walk southwest of the centre, but all buses a Scotiabank on the corner of 1a Av Nte and C
pass the Parque Central going in or out, so watch Quiñonez de Osorio.
out for the tower of the Torre Kiosko and get off Internet Matrix on C 2 Ote by 2a Av Sur is fast with
there. web-based call equipment (US$0.75/hr).
Pharmacy Santa Fé II, 4 C Ote (t2393-6726),
serves you after 9pm if you ring the bell.
Accommodation Post office The office, with regular opening times,
There are not too many places to stay, but in the is on C 1 de Julio, one block south of the parque.
unlikely event that both the places listed here are Telephones Telecom office is just off the corner of
full, there are also some basic guesthouses in the the Parque opposite the De Todo supermarket.
centre of town.
Casa de Huéspedes El Turista C 4 Pte 15 Moving on
T 2393-0323. The best option in town has simple
rooms with fans around a leafy courtyard and below By bus to: Carretera Interamericana, for #301
a good roof terrace. It’s worth paying US$2 more between San Salvador and San Miguel (#157;
for a private bathroom and cable TV, as the shared 10min; frequent); Costa del Sol (#193E; 4 daily; 2hr
toilets aren’t up to the same standard. 2 30min); Ilobasco (#530; 3 daily; 1hr); San Salvador
Hotel Central Park On the west side of the Parque (#116; frequent; 1hr 30min); Usulután (#417; 6
Central T2393-0383. Rooms are not tasteful, and daily; 2hr); Zacatecoluca (#177; 4 hourly; 50min).
en-suites can get a bit funky, though most have
a/c and firm beds. There’s a bar with pleasant Around San Vicente
communal balcony with views of the Parque and the
Near San Vicente is one of the most
restaurant serves well-priced típicos until 10pm.
memorable-looking volcanoes in the
country, the Volcán Chichontepec,
Eating and drinking which rises up into twin craters like the
San Vicente is quite responsive to evening activities nostrils of a giant mole, while on the
and there are a number of bars around the park as other side of town is the peaceful picnic
well as good eating options around town. There’s spot of the Laguna de Apastepeque.
a nameless pupusería on Avenida C Miranda that
does a range of good pupusas every night and also Volcán Chichontepec
sells US$0.80 beers.
San Vicente is dominated by the
Casa Blanca 2 C Ote. Meat and fish dishes
towering bulk of Volcán Chichontepec
including codorniz (quail; US$7) served in a lovely
shaded garden that doubles as a good place for an (also known as Volcán San Vicente) to
evening drink. the southwest. Meaning “Hill of Two
Dany’s 4a C Pte just off Av C Miranda. Serves Breasts” in Nahuatl, the twin peaks rise
big portions of your typical Americanized cuisine to 2181m, making it the second-highest
287
 volcano in the country. It’s considered energetic walk of about one hour – try
dormant, with cultivated lower slopes to get there at 4pm when the water is
and the steep summit left to scrub and at its highest. The surrounding area is
soil. A number of paths lead up the predominantly coffee-growing country,
slopes from both the village of San and occasionally beans are seen drying
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Antonio on the east side and from on the streets.

Guadelupe on the northwest flank.
It’s a stiff walk of around three hours Arrival and information
to the top from any of the trails, and
good walking shoes, sun protection By bus Buses stop on C Masferrer, a hundred
and lots of water are all essential. From metres or so to the west of the Parque Central.
The east

the summit there are panoramic views Internet Café Casa Vieja, on 1 Av Nte at C
Masferrer, is a quaint little café on the Parque that
north across the Jiboa valley, with San
has fast internet for US$0.80.
Vicente nestled at the bottom, and west Tourist information Alegriá has a real, live tourist
across to Lago de Ilopango. Buses to kiosk at the southwestern corner of the Parque
San Antonio and Guadelupe leave every offering maps, accommodation, tours and flower
hour or so until mid-afternoon from information.
San Vicente’s market.
Accommodation
Laguna de Apastepeque
Laguna de Apastepeque, 3km northeast Casa Alegré Av C Campos t 7201-8641. This
of the city (bus #156), is a small, well- hotel is the coolest place to stay, with firm beds
maintained turicentro (daily 8am–6pm; in clean rooms with a shared bathroom below the
studio of the artists that own it. 2
US$0.90) set around a crater lake with
Casa del Huésped la Palma On the east side of
clean blue water and shady banks. It is
the Parque Central t2628-1012. The friendly old
a great place to relax in the hammock owners here have conveyed a great sense of past
you just bought, read and swim, glory. Bed sizes and stiffness (in shared rooms)
though the good swimming makes varies. A better deal for solo travellers, as rates are
this an extremely popular spot among per person. 2
families at weekends. If you don’t get a Hostal Tecupa 3 C Ote t2628-1093. The good
picnic together there are unremarkable comida served in the flowery courtyard and its
comedores around, and the turicentro very clean toilet and shower make up for the quite
has toilets and changing facilities. shabby rooms. 2

Alegriá Eating and drinking

At El Triunfo on the Carretera Intera- Café Expresso Southeast corner of the Parque. A
mericana a road leads south to Usulután, classy place for a café (US$0.50). Nice breakfasts
passing the pleasant town of Santiago de served until late morning.
María, from where a steep road leads up Casa de Mi Abuelo 4a Av Nte & C M Aranjo. This
the slopes of Volcán Tecapa to the floral streetside comedor and tienda serves ice cream,
haven of ALEGRÍA. The highest town milkshakes and beers (US$1). Cool off or chill out
in El Salvador, it offers predictably great on the shaded seating.
views, and is also home to an extraor- Christina’s 4a Av Sur & Pasaje Grimaldi. The best
pupusería in town, with a chicharrón-filled option
dinary number of flower nurseries
(US$0.50) that is well above-average.
– it simply erupts with blossoms during
Merendero Mi Pueblito Opposite the alcaldía
orchid season. Paths lead up the volcano on C A Masferrer. The town’s vogue restaurant,
from town to the sulphurous Laguna de possibly because of the jaw-dropping views all the
Alegría, a crater lake whose hot and way to the northern border from its own mirador,
cold waters will strip you of your dead but also perhaps the big portions (pollo dorado
skin if you can take the smell. It is an US$4) and veg options.
288
 Moving on What to see and do
By bus to: Santiago de María (#348; twice hourly; The city is laid out in the usual quasi-
15min). Change here for Usulután (#362; frequent; grid system, with the main avenida
45min) and the Carretera Interamericana (#362; (Av Gerardo Barrios/Av José Simeón

el salvador
frequent; 10min).
Cañas) and the main calle (C Chaparras-
tique/C Sirama) intersecting at Parque
San Miguel Gerardo Barrios, the Parque Central.
Some 135km from San Salvador, the
bustling, hot and flat city of SAN Parque David J. Guzmán
MIGUEL is the country’s main trade Although Parque Barrios is technically

The east
centre. Initially the least important of the central plaza, the heart of San Miguel
the Spanish cities, it grew wealthy, firstly – and a much better place to sit – is the
through the profits of gold, and then on shady Parque David J. Guzmán, a block
the coffee, cotton and henequén grown away to the northeast. It was named
on the surrounding fertile land, leading after the eminent nineteenth-century
to the nickname “The Pearl of the East”. Migueleño biologist and member of the
More recently it was a centre of arms French Academy of Science, whose name
trading during the civil war, though adorns the town, though his former
today the city’s flat streets hum and rattle residence on C 4 Pte lays derelict.
with more mundane forms of commerce On the east side of the Parque Guzmán
and travellers will easily find the sort sits the Cathedral, built in the 1880s.
of facilities offered in the capital. But Despite a modern make-over, it is still
despite being the birthplace of several an impressive building, with a cast-iron
national heroes, the city is surprisingly statue of Christ bearing his crown of
short on sights and attractions, and the thorns standing between two red-roofed
best time to visit is during the November bell towers. Inside it is rather bare, with
carnival, supposedly the biggest in the famed statue of Nuestra Señora de
Central America. In any case it is the la Paz (see box below) above the altar.
pivot of the east: a base for the beaches Just south of the cathedral is the Antiguo
to the south or a stopover on journeys to Teatro Nacional, a honey-coloured
Perquín and the Honduran border. Renaissance-style building completed

Nuestra Señora de la Paz

San Miguel’s imposing cathedral, while rather disappointing inside, holds the
cherished statue of Nuestra Señora de la Paz, the city’s patroness. Though
accounts differ as to how and when the statue arrived in the city, it is generally held
that her true moment of glory came during the eruption of Volcán Chaparrastique
on September 21, 1787. On seeing a glowing river of lava advancing on San
Miguel, the terrified citizens, praying to the Virgin to save them, took the statue
to the door of the cathedral and presented her to the volcano. The lava changed
course and the city was saved. In honour of these events, San Miguel holds two
months of fiesta, beginning with the Virgin “descending” the volcano on September
21 and culminating in a procession through the streets, attended by thousands,
on November 21. A more recent coda to the fiesta is the annual carnival held on
November 29, when live music, fireworks and street dancing dominate the whole
town. Instituted in 1958, it has quickly grown to be the largest carnival in Central
America (or so locals like to claim). If you’re around during the festival look out
for people wandering around holding large plastic iguanas aloft – the locals are
nicknamed garroberos (iguana eaters) due to their penchant for the lizard’s meat.

289
 in 1909; performances occasionally take great if it had more atmosphere, this place is only
place here, particularly during fiesta time. ever full during festival time. Nonetheless, it has
Check the Prensa Gráfica on weekends big, airy and clean en-suite rooms all with a/c
and cable TV. Meals are served in the restaurant
for advertised shows. On the south side
opposite. It a better deal for groups, with an equally
of the square, the colonnaded Alcaldía, oversized six-man room for US$40. 4
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dating from 1935, is in serious need of King Palace C 6 Ote T 2661-1086. Good-value
renovation. and professional hotel opposite the bus terminal.
The clean rooms are en suite, some with balcony,
Iglesia Capilla Medalla cable TV, a/c and telephone. Facilities are list-
Milagrosa worthy: secure parking, restaurant, fast internet,
swimming pool and rooftop gym pool also
Of the few other minor sights within
The east

available. 5
town, the most appealing is the gothic Mir 4 C Ote 66 t7745-3348. Big and comfortable
Iglesia Capilla Medalla Milagrosa, beds in clean enough en-suite rooms with fans,
located at the western end of Calle 4 spotty cable and a fresh purple colour scheme.
Pte where it joins 7a Avenida Sur. Set There are garden chairs to recline upon in the
in pretty gardens, the church was built greenish courtyard and a stocked beer fridge. 2
by French nuns working in the hospital Monte Carlo 4 C Ote 610 t2660-2737. Another
that once stood next door, and is known near-terminal budget option, this one has very firm
beds (some with Doric bedsteads) that are quite thin
for its beautiful stained-glass windows,
in the rooms without a/c but big in the luxury rooms.
best seen on a clear evening
Very clean toilets throughout and friendly owners. 3
Posada Real 7a Av Nte at 2 C Pte t2661-
Arrival and information 7174. In by far the nicest area, and close to
the nightlife, this two-storey spotless hotel has big
By bus Buses arrive at the well-ordered main rooms with great beds, clear cable and access to
terminal on C 6 Ote between 8a & 10a Av Nte, four a patio on the second floor. They’ll wash and iron
blocks (or 10min walk) east of the centre. clothes for US$0.30 an item. 5
Tourist information There is no official tourist
office, but staff at the Alcaldía (town hall) on the
south side of Parque David J Guzmán will help you
Eating
with quick questions.
There are plenty of established places to eat in San
Miguel, and new ones are popping up all the time,
Accommodation so it’s worth gambling on unknowns. Local bakeries
will also sell tustacos, a local speciality resembling
The majority of accomodation choices cluster a sweet tortilla.
around the bus terminal, inevitably a rather sleazy Batyjugos Carlitos 1a Av Nte & C 4 Pte. Carlito
area. There are great hotels away from this region, serves excellent snacks and lunches in an intimate,
but you’ll have to pay a bit more. colourful downstairs and roomier first floor. His
Caleta 3a Av Sur 601 between C 9 & 11 Pte speciality is a wide range of big licuados (US$0.70).
T 2661-3233. Clean and quiet hotel, popular with Café Cristy 5a Av Nte at 6 C Pte. A classy looking
travelling businessmen during the week. There’s a new canteen possessing an airy feel and bustling
small courtyard with hammocks, and some rooms with patrons. The menu is standard típicos, but
have private bath. Staff can also help arrange surf good at the price (pollo con arosa US$2).
trips to secluded beaches. 3 Comedor Vicky 7a Av Nte. A small, friendly
Hotel del Centro C 8 Ote 505 at 8a Av Nte comedor that does an ice-cold, freshly squeezed
T &F 2661-5473. This very friendly, helpful and orange juice (US$1) and cooked breakfast. The
spotlessly clean hotel is the best of the cheaper Sopa Gallina India (US$2) is fine for lunch too.
options around the bus terminal. The rooms are Conchadromo Esmerelda 6a Av Nte between
smallish but well arranged, with beds that are piled C 4 & 6 Ote. Good, basic breakfasts and comidas a
with cushions and have bedside lights; all rooms la vista. One of a clutch of similar places in a former
have bath and TV. There’s free internet for guests parking lot. Closed Sun.
and US$0.40 laundry washes. 3 El Paraiso Parque Guzmán. Well-prepared pupusas
Hotel El Guanaco 8a Av Nte Pje Madrid T2661- and comidas a la vista (US$2.60) are dished out
8026, F2660-6403. A giant hotel that would be in an attractive colonial building in a conveniently
290
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The east el salvador

291
 central location. Prices are low and quality is good.
Steer clear of the jugos though; they are surpris- Shopping
ingly horrible.
Centro Comercial de Artesanías Alameda
Pupusería Chilita C 8 Ote at 6a Av Nte. A barn of
Roosevelt between C 4 & 6 Pte. It is less artisan
a neighbourhood pupusería, particularly popular at
than souvenir, but there are some pockets of
the weekends. The pupusas are good, but there’s
el salvador

genuine produce to be found.

also a decent selection of comidas a la vista.
Mercado Central Parque Barrios. A sprawling
Seating is available on a breezy terrace at the back.
affair lined with narrow warrens filled with stalls
Closed Sun.
selling all manner of food, clothes and other goods.
Metrocentro Av Roosevelt Sur. Situated at the
edge of town, this consumer vortex includes stores,
treat yourself

La Pema 5km from town on the banks, supermarkets, restaurants and a cinema;
The east

road to El Cuco T2667-6055. any bus heading south down Av Roosevelt will drop
El Salvador’s most renowned you outside.
restaurant. It will cost around
US$15–20 per head, but the
huge servings of mariscada,
Directory
a creamy soup of every Exchange BanCo, Banco Cuscatlán and Banco
conceivable type of seafood, Salvadoreño (which gives Visa cash advances)
and the bowls of fruit salad cluster around the west side of the Parque and
served as an accompaniment along C 4 Ote.
mean you won’t feel like eating again Internet Access is available at the Euro Cyber Café,
for a while. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. part of the Academía Europea at Av Roosevelt 300
Sur (US$1/hr) or Infocentros on 6 C Pte in town for
the same price.
Laundry Lava Rápido (6a Av Nte, just past 8 C Ote)
Drinking and nightlife
is a rare laundry service at US$3 per load. It will
By night the focus shifts to the comedores and also sell you the detergent. Open 8am until 7pm.
fast-food chains along Av Roosevelt. Think about Medical care Hospital Clínica Laboratorio San
ordering taxis, not least because the nightspots are Francisco, on 5a Av Nte (t2661-1991), is a private
quite far out of town. For return journeys, these can hospital with 24hr emergency care.
be arranged with the barmen. No journey should Pharmacy Farmacia El Progresso, 4 C Ote & 6a Av
be over US$3. Nte (t2661-1098), is open weekdays until 6pm
Mama Gallina’s Av Roosevelt Sur t 2661-2123. and Saturdays until noon.
The most renowned of a clutch of bar/restaurants Post office 4a Av Sur at C 3 Ote, south from the
on the town side on Roosevelt is ostensibly a big cathedral.
dark room, but company is everything and it fills Supermarket There’s a Super Selectos super-
up. Drink rather than eat unless you really want market on Av Roosevelt at C 11 Pte, and a Dispensa
to spend; on top of beer there’s sangria (US$4), Familiar in town on Av Gerrardo Barrios at C
shots (US$7 double) and wine by the bottle Chaparrastique.
(US$20). Telephones On the corner of Parque Guzmán next
El Paisa Av Roosevelt Sur opposite the Hotel to the Alcaldía.
Trópico Inn. Popular Mexican food spot that also
does steaks for US$7, though the large tacos are Moving on
cheaper at US$3. It’s more used as an outdoors
booze hall with a big screen and a stage for By bus to: Corinto (#327; twice hourly; 2hr); El
live musicians on the weekends. Open daily Amatillo, via Santa Rosa de Lima (#330; frequent;
10am–2am. 1hr 30min); El Tamarindo, via Las Tunas (#385;
Papagallo’s Plaza Chaparrastique, Av Roosevelt hourly; 1hr 30min); La Unión (#324; frequent; 1hr);
Sur t2661-0400.The big venue of town has big Perquín (#332; 6 daily; 3hr); Playa El Cuco (#320;
Mexican dishes starting at US$3, but you should be twice hourly; 1hr); Puerto El Triunfo (#377; every
here to drink and dance under the a/c. On certain 40min; 1hr); San Francisco Gotera (#328; frequent;
nights they have live music and comedy for a US$5 1hr); San Salvador (#301; 4 hourly; 3hr); Usulután
entry fee, redeemable in drink. Open Thurs–Sun (#373; frequent; 1hr 15min). Luxury services go to
noon–2am. San Salvador (10 daily; 2hr).
292
 The Ruta de la Paz
North of San Miguel, the beautiful and sparsely populated mountainous department
of Morazán experienced some of the civil war’s worst atrocities, with massacres
and bombing raids a regular occurrence. Much of the region is now encompassed

el salvador
by the conversely named Ruta de la Paz, part of a major project to rebuild much-
needed housing, schools and infrastructure, as well as to develop tourism in the
region. The locals here all have a story to tell, though some are more willing to share
their experiences than others. The main draw is the village of Perquín, with its war
museum, and the nearby town of Mozote, scene of a massacre that wiped out the
village population. Under-valued Guatajiagua is a charming town with arguably El
Salvador’s best artisan output.

The east
San Francisco Guatajiagua
Gotera Lying in the basin of an open valley
North of San Miguel, Highway CA- between Gotera and the Interamericana,
7 runs 25km to SAN FRANCISCO peaceful GUATAJIAGUA is a highlight
GOTERA (usually called “Gotera”). of Salvadoran small town life. Like many
It’s the least exciting of the towns along other towns, Guatajiagua has a unified
creative output – black clay pottery and
the Ruta de la Paz, but is a pivotal
sculpture – but the products are of far
transport point for the more inter-
higher quality than the usual souvenirs.
esting destinations beyond. There’s
Moreover, the town is very approach-
no real reason to stay here, as onward
able, and as yet untainted by tourism.
bus connections are good, but if you
Calle Principal, running west of the
do get stuck, the San Francisco, on Av
parque, is the town’s unofficial centre
Morazán at C 3 Pte (T 2654-0066; 3 ),
and the location of Cedart (Mon–Fri
a block away from the bus stop, is the 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–midday), which
best hotel in town, with a good range provides a useful introduction to and an
of rooms including en-suite doubles exhibition of local crafts (ask for direc-
with cable TV and a/c. Cocina de tions to workshops if you see a piece
Chinchilla, on C los Almendros, is you like). There are many workshops
good for pastas (US$4), vegetarian around town, including that of Sarbelio
dishes (US$3.50) and burgers, but Vásquez Garcia, whose sculptures of
Comedor Vanessa, Barrio la Soledad a kneeling man you’ll see imitated
#1, is where everyone in the know throughout town.
goes, with full meals costing US$2.25. A hotel has finally opened in town,
If you have some time to kill, check out and it has not been done in half
the panoramic view from the Parque measures. The four-storey Hotel Canales
Concordia. (t 2634-5003; 3 ) has spotless, light
Buses stop just after the dusty and and airy rooms, with towels provided
ugly main square. Bus #332A runs in the bathrooms and fans and TVs in
regularly north to Perquín from the rooms. The best part is the views
the same place, and pick-ups do from the roof – you can see far past
the route from the northern end of San Miguel in the next valley. There is
Avenida Morazán between 5am and also one excellent bar and restaurant,
5.30pm. Bus number #328 makes the Merendero de la Vista, which is reached
trip to San Miguel (every 10min; 1hr). by heading right out of the hotel and left
Cacaopera can be reached by #337 at the end of the road until you get to
(hourly; 1hr). the Art Nouveau cross. You’ll feel like
293
 you’re in someone’s living room as soon CORINTO, an important commer-
as you enter: there is a sofa and armchair cial hub in the region and home to a
and a little garden out back where you market on Wednesday and Sunday that
can play checkers with bottle caps. attracts vendors from neighbouring
The owners offer good hamburgesas Honduras. There is the usual tack, but
el salvador

(US$1), pupusas (US$0.25) and cold look for hand-rolled cigars and locally
beers for under a dollar (if you buy grown foods. The town’s main claim to
enough). Across the road from Cedart, fame are the Grutas del Espíritu Santo
an unnamed internet café provides (Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm; US$2), a series
connections for US$0.01 per minute. of caves bearing pre-Columbian wall
Buses from San Francisco Gotera art located about fifteen minutes north
The east

(#410; hourly; 1hr) stop by the market, of the village on foot through some
as does the San Miguel bus (#326; pleasant scenery. Though faint, the art
hourly; 1hr 20min), which you can pick is said to date back some ten thousand
up at Chapeltique on the highway if years, and the whole area makes a very
you’re coming from the west. pleasant stroll. Pollo Silvestre, on 1 Calle
Pte, does good pollo dorado (US$3),
Cacaopera while Café la Casona on the parque has
The small village of CACAOPERA, good pastries. There is a lack of recom-
11km north of Gotera, takes its name mendable accommodation; go to Hotel
from the Ulúa language, and refers to Restaurante Familiar (T 2898-2844; 2 )
the heavy cultivation of cacao in the if you’re stuck. Corinto can be reached
area during colonial times. Indigenous as a day-trip from San Miguel (bus
culture and religion is still strongly #327 from the main terminal), or #782
adhered to in this region, and an (hourly; 1hr) comes from Cacaopera.
excellent place to learn about it is the
Centro Maya Kakawira (Mon–Fri 9am– Mozote
3pm; US$1), which has fine exhibits on A few kilometres further on sits
indigenous tradition and culture, as MOZOTE, the scene of the country’s
well as photos and arts and crafts. You most atrocious wartime massacre (see
can stay here, probably putting into box opposite). Today ruined Mozote is
practice what you have just learnt, as still virtually a ghost town, a situation
the bunk dorms (1 ) have no electricity that ensures a high volume of war
or water and buckets for toilets; you can tourism but obviously hinders the
self-cater on their fire. Another worthy recovery progress. Families are slowly
stop is the colonial church dating back moving back, and a Claudia Bernard
to 1660 (though heavily restored), with mural on the left side of the church
walls up to five metres thick. Adjacent describes the village’s old agricultural
is a bell tower with three huge bronze life and hopes for the future.
bells dating from 1772. The church is Although the massacre’s one survivor
the focus of festivities on January 15– has now passed away, newer inhabitants
17, when the villagers dance in memory are continuing the guide work she did,
of the eight caciques (priests) and the and are vital to understanding all the
indigenous warrior deities Tupaica and town’s scars left from the war: you can
Tumaica. There are hourly buses (#337) see a bomb crater, the massacre’s mass
here from Gotera. graves and the hole that the survivor
hid in for five days (there’s no charge,
Corinto but tipping is expected). A moving
From Cacaopera, a road heads a monument to the victims features an
little further northeast to the town of iron sculpture of the silhouette of a
294
family and a wall carrying the names deserted. Today, the “town that refused
of those killed. For a small fee (around to die” has repaired most of its buildings,
US$4), local children will take you to although the scars of war are still evident
the caves where the guerrillas were and nearly everyone has a horrendous
really hiding out, a pleasant walk of tale to tell. Recently community action

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four or five kilometres through forest has been moving away from the retro-
and brush, where wildlife abounds. The spective outlook that war tourism has
caves themselves are not overly spectac- created, and instituted new schools,
ular, but it was from here that Radio coffee production and a young and hip
Venceremos (“We Will Overcome”) annual festival, the Festival del Invierno,
was first broadcast, and as you look out which hosts live music and events in

The east
over the surrounding countryside it is August.
easy to see why they were never discov-
ered by the army. What to see and do
Mozote can be reached by foot from
Perquín (see below) or via a pick-up to The town itself is clumped around
Arambala, 3km down the CA-7, where its pentagonal Parque Central, where
you change to a Joateca bus that leaves there is a municipal basketball court.
at 8am every morning (the return bus One block uphill is Calle de los
leaves Mozote at 12.45pm). Héroes, containing most of the town’s
attractions.
Perquín
At the Desvío de Arambala, the main Museo de la Revolución
paved section of road begins its final Perquín’s main draw is the moving
climb to PERQUÍN, a small and, Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña
given its history, surprisingly friendly (Tues–Sun 8.30am–4.30pm; US$1.50),
mountain town set in the middle of set up by former guerrillas in the wake
glorious walking countryside. During of the 1992 Peace Accords. The curators
the war the town was the FMLN travelled throughout the country
headquarters, and in later years where collecting photographs and personal
they broadcast Radio Venceremos to effects of “disappeared” guerrillas, a
the nation. Attempts by the army to collection that is still growing and
dislodge the guerrillas mostly failed, displayed in the first room. There is
leaving the town badly damaged and a succinct summary (in Spanish) of

Los Inocentes
In December 1981, the elite, US-trained Atlacatl army battalion entered the village
of Mozote and rounded up its inhabitants on the suspicion that they had been
harbouring FMLN guerrillas. Earlier, the villagers had been warned by guerrillas of
the army’s intent, but the mayor had been assured by the government that they
would be safe staying put. This was not to be: under orders to set an example and
obtain information, for three days the soldiers tortured and raped the inhabitants,
before executing them all, including the children, who were shot in front of their
parents. In all, some thousand people were killed, and their bodies subsequently
burnt or buried in mass graves. The eyewitness testimonies to the events were
ignored for years, and the bodies of the victims did not begin to be exhumed until
1992. Foreign groups are still working to uncover these mass-burial sites today; in
some graves upwards of 85 percent of the bodies belong to children. On the right
side of the church, a small garden for “the innocent ones” commemorates the utter
tragedy of their lost lives.

295
 the escalation to the armed struggle, Gotera stop one block south of the park on C San
now-disabled weaponry and examples Sebastián.
of international propaganda aimed Tourist information There’s a small, but
enthusiastic tourist office (Mon–Sat 8am–4pm;
at bringing the events in El Salvador
T2680-4086) on the west side of the Parque that
to the world’s attention, but the most can provide leaflets and maps and is the place to
el salvador

moving exhibits are perhaps the organize guided hikes.

anonymous transcripts of witnesses
of the Mozote massacre, and drawings
Accommodation
by refugee schoolchildren, depicting
the war’s events as they saw them. A There are quite a few places to camp in the hills
separate room contains the transmitting around Perquin – it’s worth asking at the tourist
The east

equipment and studio used by Radio office for recommendations.

Venceremos, whose clandestine broad- Hotel Perkin Lenca 1.5km south of town
casts every afternoon throughout the on CA-7 T2680-4046, wwww
.perkinlenca.com. The owner here, a former aid-
war transmitted the guerrillas’ view of
worker called Ronald, built the entire site himself,
events, as well as interviews and music. including the huge barn where excellent meals are
After the peace accords, the station served (US$5–10) – worth a visit even if you don’t
received an FM licence, and is now a stay here. Spotless, hot-water en-suites, firm beds,
commercial music station based in San hammocks and tables on the porches, great views,
Salvador, a status viewed by some as a table tennis, free internet and a laundry service and
bit of a sell-out. a pool (under construction at the time of writing)
Outside the museum is the crater are worth every penny. Breakfast is included, and
left by a 500lb bomb dropped on the advance booking is recommended; he says he will
give 20 percent discounts during the week if rooms
village – next to which a disarmed one
are open – hold him to it. 5
is on display, with “Made in the USA” Hotel y Restaurante La Posada Signed at Km
stencilled on the side – and a mock-up 206 on CA-7, 500m south of town. This hotel
of a guerrilla camp. Behind the museum used to be a saw-mill, evidenced by the lofty
lie the remains of the helicopter that reception area, where simple típicos are served.
was carrying Domingo Monterrosa The beds are firm and good, though the rooms
(architect of the Mozote massacre) quite dark, and the shared bathroom isn’t en suite
when it was shot down by the FMLN but there is toilet paper and seats. It stands alone
in 1984. for its pool table, in great condition, and gym
facilities. 3
Perquín Real At the southern end of town on CA-7
Cerro de Perquín t2680-4158, [email protected]. The
Opposite the museum, a track leads up best budget option in town has a row of spacious
from a parking lot to the panoramic rooms with at least two double beds in each. The
views from the peak of the Cerro de bathroom situation is a little sketchy (it’s shared
Perquín. It is an easy 1km stroll to the with the good restaurant in the courtyard, and still
top, where climbers can picnic and have uses a bucket shower – quite abrasive in the cooler
their picture taken by a sign marking climate). 1
Turicentro Salto El Perol 4km east of town on
the summit. Consider taking a lot of
the road to Marcala T2680-6071. These camping
pictures on the way up to make the
pitches, situated in one of three contiguous turicen-
climb seem longer when you come to tros on the Río Guaco, have the best waterfall and
tell the story. fresh-water swimming pools, as well as comedores.
The walk to town takes two hours. 1
Arrival and information
Eating
By bus Buses arrive on the south and west
sides of the Parque Central, though it is easier Blanquita’s Av los Próceres. This is the best
to jump off before town for many of the accom- comedor in town, with a small selection but popular
modation options. Pick-ups from San Francisco a la vista and cakes. Desayuno US$1.50.
296
 into honduras: El Amatillo
Beyond Santa Rosa, the road connects with the Carretera Interamericana to run to
the border over the Río Goascora at El Amatillo. The border crossing is easy and
free but busy, and teeming with moneychangers – who generally do better rates

el salvador
than the bank here – and beggars. On the Honduran side, buses leave regularly until
late afternoon for Tegucigalpa and Jícaro Galán, and there are also direct buses to
Choluteca, for onward connection to the Nicaraguan border along the Carretera
Interamericana.

Marisol Av los Próceres. If you fancy a drink or two, guides a day in advance, some of which

The east
and good burgers and fries (US$2.50), this is your have reasonable English. Paying for
place, though it resembles a hospital in decor. It is a guide (around US$15 per group) is
open late (until 10pm at weekends)
tremendously worthwhile, as they are
La Muralla C de los Héroes, at the foot of the
climb to the museum. The evening pupusa spot,
mostly ex-guerrillas who will bring the
frying on demand out front while the townsfolk history of the landscape to life.
watch dubbed America dramas on the cable inside.
It costs around US$2 for five pupusas. Open until Santa Rosa de Lima
9pm. East of San Francisco Gotera, a road
El Ocotal At Km 201 on CA-7 t2680-4190. As
continues through hot, low hills to
a hotel this is a paler version of Perkin Lenca;
however, the restaurant is worth a trip, with good
SANTA ROSA DE LIMA, a messy but
sopas (US$2.50) and a mean fried yucca on thriving place with a large daily market,
weekends. It is set in a pine forest, which curiously cheese industry and a well-maintained
suits the 80s power ballads they favour on the church. Besides the Wednesday
stereo. Bring your swimsuit – you can use the pool markets, there’s not much to do here,
once you’ve spent money. but it’s a convenient stopover if you’re
crossing late from Honduras. The best
Directory of the few places to stay is Hotel El
Recreo, on 4a Av Nte between C Giron
Internet Access can be found on Calle de los and C 1 Ote (T 2664-2126; 3 ), which
Héroes for US$1/hr.
has clean rooms with bath, though
Pharmacy There’s one next to the post office, with
a fairly small stock.
it does get a little noisy. The basic
Post office The post office is next door to the but adequate El Tejano, on C Giron
tourist office (Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri, 8am–5pm). between 6a and 8a Av Nte (T 2664-
2459; 2 ), is slightly cheaper, but has
Moving on a 7am check-out. For eating, the very
clean Comedor Chayito, at the corner
By bus to: San Miguel, via San Francisco Gotera of C Giron and C 1 Ote, does a good
(#332; 4 daily; 2hr); Mozote (#426; 2 daily; 20min). cheap comida a la vista. For something
By pick-up to: San Francisco Gotera (twice hourly; with a bit more kick, try Taquería
1hr). Tex Mex, on Av G Arias between C 1
and 3 Ote. Banks, including Banco
Around Perquín Cuscatlán, are clustered around the
The area around Perquín makes very plaza at the centre of town. Buses arrive
enjoyable hiking, the highlights of which at the western end of 6 C Pte, and go to
are the route over Cerro el Pericón to the border at El Amatillo (#346; every
Mozote, taking around three hours with 20min; 1hr 30min), La Union (#304 or
a stop to swim in the middle, and a two- #342; frequent; 1hr 30min), San Miguel
hour loop around Cerro Gigante. The (#330; frequent; 1hr) and San Salvador
tourist office (see p.296) can organize (#306; twice hourly; 4hr).
297
 The north
the army struggled to dislodge FMLN
guerrillas from their nearby mountain
strongholds. Upwards of ninety percent
North of San Salvador, hilly pastures of the inhabitants left the town, which
and agricultural land give way to the was largely resettled by ex-guerrillas
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remote, rugged and sparsely populated after the war. Today life here is generally
Chalatenango and Cuscatlán provinces, quiet. The town offers great eating and
a region of poverty and pride all but drinking, and presents an antidote to
closed to outsiders until recently. The rough travelling.
Spanish found few natural riches to
attract them this far north, and succes- What to see and do
The north

sive generations of campesinos have

vainly struggled to make a living. This Suchitoto boasts some of the finest
harsh terrain created fertile ground for standing examples of colonial architec-
dissent and support for the FMLN, who ture in the country, so before getting
controlled large parts of the depart- stuck into the cafés and shops it is worth
ment of Chalatenango for significant taking a stroll to admire the low red-tiled
periods during the 1980s. Both army adobe houses stretching attractively along
and guerrillas struggled to take control, the town’s streets.
leaving devastated communities in their
wake and refugees fleeing across the The centre
border to Honduras. The legacy of the Overlooking the Parque Central, the
region’s wartime status was not exclu- post-colonial Iglesia Santa Lucía has
sively detrimental, however, and the an impressive Neo-classical front and
effect of the subsequent repopulation a particularly fine wooden altar and
has been the reinvention and moderni- strange hollow wooden columns inside.
zation of its big towns. Each now has The Casa de Cultura (Mon–Fri, 9am–
a very singular character and commit- 5pm; free), a block north of the church,
ment: colonial Suchitoto is the darling has displays on local history and infor-
of culture and tourism, La Palma is a mation on local walks, while the shaded
mountainous escape with a legion of Parque San Martín, a couple of blocks
artisans and bustling Chalatenango is a west of the church, commands stunning
centre of rural commerce. and seemingly endless views across
the blue waters of the lake. Group
Suchitoto tours of the centre’s architecture can be
Cobbled and colonial SUCHITOTO organized at the tourist office.
perches like a crown on the ridge
above the southern edge of Lago de Museo de Alejandro Cotto
Suchitlán. Regularly compared to From the northeast of town, Avenida
Antigua in Guatemala, only “before it 15 de Septiembre leads down to the
got so touristy”, the left-leaning town lakeshore, passing the Museo de
was made a site of National Cultural Alejandro Cotto (Sat & Sun 2–6pm;
Heritage in 1997, and culture is indeed US$4), a beautifully restored colonial
the order of the day. There are food and house replete with a fine collection of
arts festivals every weekend, and the local paintings, sculpture, indigenous
month-long February festival of culture artefacts and musical instruments.
brings in the country’s best painters, The owner, Cotto himself, is a famous
orchestras, performers and poets. This Salvadoran writer and filmmaker, and
was not true during the 1980s, when the is often here. The entrance price, while
area was the scene of bitter fighting as relatively steep, goes towards funding
298
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the town’s February arts and culture out of town (30min). The waterfall is of
festival. note for the unusual hexagonal basaltic
columns over which the water flows. It’s
Lago de Suchitlán interesting to see, but the water level can
It’s a couple of kilometres to Lago de get low in the dry season.
Suchitlán, but it’s worth the trip as
you can swim, and a couple of small Salto El Cubo
lakeside bars are good for a relaxing A better waterfall to swim in is Salto El
drink. A small boat sometimes runs Cubo, with its chilly twin pools. It is a
around the lake, or local fishermen may pleasant one-hour walk west of town –
be persuaded to take you out onto the go to the western end of Calle Morazán,
water. Trips to Isla de los Pájaros in the then follow the sign down the track at
middle of the lake, the home of a range the signpost.
of fish-eating bird life, take about forty
minutes (boat US$10–15). To get to Cerro Guazapa
the lake, walk north on Avenida 15 de A former guerrilla stronghold, the roads
Septiembre from the Parque Central up and around Cerro Guazapa still bear
and keep going, or take a mini-bus from witness to the crumbling remains of
the corner of that road and 4a Calle Pte the trenches and dugouts used by both
(10min; US$0.30). sides, now quietly submerged beneath
green vegetation. Horseriding is popular
Los Tercios in this area and hacks across the volcano
You can also be dropped off at a trail can be organized through the tourist
on the lakeshore that leads to the Los office (US$18 per person; 6hr). Check
Tercios waterfall (boat US$4–6), or walk the condition of the horses before you
to it by following the signposts south go, as some aren’t in great shape.
299
 Villa Balanza Parque San Martin t2335-1408,
Arrival and information w www.villabalanzarestaurante.com.sv. Two very
good, wooden finished rooms behind the restaurant
By boat Ferries from San Francisco Lempa, across
share a bathroom (with hot water!). There is an
Lago de Suchitlán, arrive at the boat dock, 1.5km
annexe with fine but not as nice en-suite rooms and
north of town along C al Lago. A microbus makes
a view of the lake. 4
el salvador

the journey up to the Parque Central for US$0.30.

Vista del Lago At the end of 2a Av Nte t2335-
By bus Buses stop at 1 C Pte, a block south of the
1357. The rooms here are small and cubicle-esque,
tourist office. with passable beds and a shared bathroom, but the
Tour operators 4hr waterfall treks can be arranged owners are relaxed, the cosy courtyard has a bar and
at Vistaconga (see p.301) for just US$6 per person; food and the bench overlooking the lake is possibly
they also do mountain-biking trips around the hills the best spot in town for an evening drink. 1
for US$7. If you wish to go further afield talk to
The north

Robert Broz at Café El Gringo.

Tourist information Possibly the best tourist Eating
office in the country is on C V Morazán & 2a Av Nte
The selection of cuisine in Suchitoto is such that
(Wed–Sun 8am–noon & 1–4pm; t2335-1782,
you only really expect from a large city, so it’s worth
wwww.suchitoto-el-salvador.com), with information
staying on the cheap and splashing out on a nice
on tours, sights and cultural events, also available
meal.
through its bilingual website. If it is closed check
Artex Café Plaza Central w www.centroartex
Café El Gringo or Artex Café (see below), who are
.org. Not only does this place have the best coffee
also mighty helpful.
in town (they’ll sell you bags for US$4.50) but also
fast internet (US$1/hr), excellent local cultural
Accommodation information (the café is run by a non-profit
organization promoting the arts) and nice outdoor
More and more accommodation options are tables to have a beer (Pilsener US$1).
springing up as Suchitoto responds to increasing Casa del Escultor 6 C Ote & 3a Av Nte t 2335-
numbers of visitors. You can find pictures and 1711 or 7820-5092, w www.miguelmartino.com.
information of most hotels, and restaurants, in Not so much a restaurant as the art-filled house
town at w www.gaesuchitoto.com. Book ahead on of an Argentine sculptor who cooks his country’s
weekends, and for all of February. famous giant grills every Sun lunch for a lucky
2 Gardenias 3a Av Nte 48 T 2335-1868, few. Reserve ahead, or if you have a group of
E [email protected]. The oldest four or more call to arrange a day and time and
backpacker spot in town has roooms that have he’ll cook especially for you. It’s worth it even at
become rather shabby, but a great mango-filled US$7–14.
community space. There’s internet access and a La Piedra Opposite the church on Parque Central.
bar inside that serves reasonably priced food and It looks like a tourist trap, but there is good variety
drinks. 2 in the menu, including rabbit (US$7) and chorizo
Blanca Luna One block south of the Parque (US$4), and it does a great rum and coffee to pick
t 2335-1661, eposadablancalunasuchitoto you up mid-afternoon (US$1.50).
@hotmail.com. The newest addition to the cheap El Portal Parque Central. This is the most popular
hotels in town has two or three double beds in the comedor in town, not only for its useful position.
rooms, as well as fan, cable TV and en-suites, and You can expect good versions of all the usuals and
there’s a Jacuzzi-style pool in the back. The owners some interesting pupusas (spinach US$0.60).
are jade-polishers. 2 Rinconcito del Gringo C V Morazán 27
Casa de Niña Rubia Av 5 de Noviembre 29 t2327-2351. From the same gringo
t 2335-1833. If the tourist-centric atmosphere that runs the internet café and tours, this largely
gets to you, come here, where you literally stay with Mexican restaurant offers big, spicey portions that
Ruby’s family in her house. Two basic and clean really should cost more (quesadillas US$4, half-litre
rooms. 1 mug of orange juice US$2). There’s a good atmos-
El Cerrito On the track between 6 & 4 C Pte phere when busy and occasionally it stays open
t 2517-1665, [email protected]. It has later for drinkers. Closed Thurs.
just one room, with three hard double beds in it, El Tejado 3a Av Nte. Big meat and chicken dishes
although like a flat this leads to a sitting room (US$6) are served in a pleasant garden with the
with cable TV and a clean bathroom. Priced by the requisite lake view. The best thing about this place
person, the room is rented like a dorm. 1 is that it gives you access to the giant and clean
300
swimming pool to cool off on hot days. You may be
asked for a US$3 supplement for this, but not always. Shopping and entertainment
Villa Balanza At the Villa Balanza hotel. This
tree-covered outdoor restaurant has a truly Arts and cultural venues are dotted around all
impressive war-themed decor. The food is good Suchitoto’s streets. It is well worth wandering
with breakfasts and lunches (chicken suprema around to find your own preferences.

el salvador
US$6.50), both served by waitresses in “tradi- La Galería de Pascal Av 15 de Septiembre. A
tional” milk-maid outfits. rather large exhibition space that sells original
Vistaconga Final Cielito Lindo 8 t2335-1676. paintings, which are naturally very expensive, but
A friendly place with great lake views, live music also local artisanal work.
or dance on Sat nights and tours arranged to Centro Arte para la Paz 4 C Pte & 6a Av Nte
surrounding attractions. There is a Mexican-inspired wwww.centroartex.org. A venue for a range of arts
events, including film, theatre, concerts and painting.

The north
menu, and some reasonable cocktails (US$4).
Closed Mon & Tues. It is linked with the Artex Café and that, along with
its website, is where to find out what’s going on.

Directory
treat yourself

La Posada C 4 Pte (T2335-

1064, W www.laposada.com
.sv. Mainly a very expensive Exchange There is, surprisingly, still no bank here,
hotel in a beautiful 200-year-old so bring plenty of cash if you want to settle in.
colonial house full of eclectic Internet Café El Gringo, 8a Av Nte 9, is a great
Moroccan and Indian crafts, internet café, not least because the gringo in
but in the back is also the best question, Californian Robert Broz, is an authority on
restaurant in town, with quality the town and area.
food served professionally for Laundry Hotel El Obraje on 2 C Ote, though dull
far less than you pay at home accommodation, does loads for US$4–6.
(salmon lasagna US$10.85). Visit the Pharmacy Santa Lucía, on the corner of C V
parrots before you leave. Morazán and Av 5 de Noviembre, is well stocked
but closes between noon & 2pm, and at 6pm.
Police The tourist police force, who have a good
presence in town, is open 24hr on the corner of Av
15 de Septiembre and 4 C Pte (t 2335-1141)
Drinking
Suchitoto is a good place to go out, both in terms of Moving on
choice and safety, so take advantage. Nonetheless,
if you’re female and on your own in El Necio and By boat to: San Francisco Lempa (20min; 10 daily),
Noe’s you should expect the all-too-usual attention. from where buses travel to Chalatenango. Car
La Fonda Northern end of Av 15 de Septiembre ferries are cheaper than passenger ferries.
t 2335-1126. The largely expensive menu has By bus to: Aguilares (#163; every 40min; 1hr) for
some cheap and filling treats (seafood salad transfer to Chalatenango (#125) & La Palma (#119);
US$4), but it really comes into its own as a spot for San Martin (#129; 10 daily; 1hr) for Cojutepeque
evening drinks with great views of the lake. (#119) or San Miguel (#301); San Salvador, Terminal
El Necio 4 C Pte 9. The only out-and-out bar in de Oriente (#129; every 15min; 1hr 30min).
town is a local favourite, serving regular priced
beers (US$1) and spirits, amid guerrilla decor. Good Aguilares and
for pre-Noe’s warm up.
Noe’s Disco 4 C Ote. Also known as Disco Mowy, Cihuatán
this is the only place to dance in town and is cheap, Some 35km north of the capital on the
cheeky and cheerful. The music is popular with border-bound CA-4, or the Troncal
obvious Latino influence, and the beers are normal del Norte, lies the pleasant workaday
price. Open weekends 8pm–2am. town of AGUILARES, with nothing
Zukafé y Bar In 2 Gardenias hostel. You can
more to offer than a relaxing snack in
always expect travellers and good music here
(occasionally live bands on Sat), there is art on the
the garden at Río Bravo on the Parque.
walls and although the food is average, you can’t Archeology buffs might want to pass
mess up a beer. through, however, as 4km to the north
301
 Village colonialism
Twenty minutes north of Aguilares, at Km 46.5 on the Troncal del Norte, is La
Hacienda Colima (T2309-3335), an ageing hacienda set in stunning surroundings.
Run by the local village co-operativa, there is a choice of private (4 ) and dorm (2 )
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accommodation, with shared bath set around a pristine courtyard. There is good
camping space, too (1 ). The views of Embalse Cerrón Grande and the nearby
volcanoes are magnificent, but it is the activity possibilities here that are the best:
canoeing, fishing, horseriding, swimming in the lake or a swimming pool. The
co-operativa will set you up with local guides for these. Birdwatchers will also be
delighted by the thousands of waterbirds in their nature reserve, including seven
species of heron, white pelicans, and vast flocks of ducks and waders. To get here,
The north

take any bus running between Aguilares and La Palma or Chalatenango and ask
the driver to let you off at the entrance. Ask at the Suchitoto tourist office for more
information.

sit the ruins of CIHUATÁN (Tues–Sun been declared a national monument.

9am–4pm; US$3; W www.cihuatan.org), During the early 1980s this was under
the most important Postclassic site in the FMLN control, and though much of
country. Originally covering an area of the town’s physical damage has been
around four square kilometres, Cihuatán repaired, a huge military garrison with
(meaning “Place of Women” in Nahaut) bullet holes in its sides still looms over
was founded sometime after the first the central plaza, Its lawless reputation
waves of Pipils (or Toltecs) began arriving is now largely fictional though, and the
in El Salvador in the tenth century and town is busy, but very friendly.
destroyed for reasons unknown around
1200 AD. The excavations, which What to see and do
includes stepped pyramids and a pelota
court bearing a clear Mexican influence, Chalatenango lies in a beautiful setting
were officially opened in November 2007, – southeast of the La Peña Mountains,
along with a very informative bilingual overlooking the distant Cerro Grande to
museum. To really get into it, it’s worth the west and Lago de Suchititlán to the
reading the information on the website south – and a lot of its attraction lies in
before going. day-trips to what surrounds it (see p.303).
Take any bus from Aquilares or the However, the daily market that seals off
capital to Chalatenango or La Palma and Calle San Martín every morning from
ask to be dropped at the gates – they’re 5am to 1pm is full of fresh locally grown
right on the highway. produce and cowboy attire, which is even
more prevalent when the Friday horse
Chalatenango fairs (auctions) come to town. Twenty
Further north along the Troncal del minutes from the centre to the east is the
Norte is a major crossroads at the Agua Fría Turicentro (daily 8am–5pm;
scrubby town of Amayo, the east branch US$0.90), with artificial pools, a water
of which leads through agricultural and slide and a café in a nice park.
pasture lands along the fringes of the lake
to CHALATENANGO. An important Arrival and information
centre of rural trade, Chalatenango has By bus All buses arrive and depart from along 3a
the rough-and-ready feel of a frontier Av Sur. From here it’s only a couple of blocks north
settlement, an atmosphere enhanced by to the Parque Central.
the raised wooden walkways fronting the Exchange There are several banks with ATMs
buildings of the centre, which have now along 3a Av Sur.
302
 30min; 3hr); San Francisco Lempa (#542; 5 daily;
Accommodation 45min); San Salvador, Terminal de Oriente (#125;
frequent; 2hr).
Hotel La Ceiba Behind the garrison building on
1 C Pte T2301-1080. Friendly and with standard
features for the price (cable, en-suite, a/c), this Around

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hotel has good views from its spot near the centre; Chalatenango
the good and bad news is there is no longer a disco
The villages north of Chalatenango
in the basement. 3
Hotelito San José 3 C Pte t2301-0148. The are spread across forested mountains
thrifty choice, with firm beds, fans and occasional and rarely visited. More adventurous
toilet seats in its rooms around a pleasant yard, but travellers may want to explore beyond
they aren’t spotless and it’s wise to arrive early and the artesan town of Concepción

The north
air the mildewy smell. 2 Quetzaltepeque, but if this is your
La Posada del Jefe C el Instituto t2335-2450. goal, find information beforehand.
The furthest option from the centre is spotless, with By the lake, San Francisco Lempa is a
good beds and en-suites, and run by a lovely family,
great little stop before crossing the lake
but at the price and at ten blocks uphill to the east
to Suchitoto.
of the centre, it’s a bit steep. 4

Concepción Quetzaltenango
Eating and drinking Twelve kilometres northwest
There is a nameless stall on the south side of the of Chalatenango, the village of
church on Calle San Martín. If you fancy an evening Concepción Quetzaltepeque is notable
drink, this little stall does cheap beer as well as for its hammock industry. Workshops
burgers, and stays open until 11pm. and homes around the village turn
Blanquita’s on the corner of C Morazán & Av out colourful items in nylon and, less
Libertad. The other good comedor in town, with, of commonly, cotton and mezcal fibres
course, much the same as well as good burgers
for prices at about half those in San
and chips (US$2.30) though going to the toilet
might put you off your food.
Salvador. If you are not very eager to
Columbia Café 4 C Pte. Its average US$1 look around the workshops that line
sandwiches lack good ingredients, but not so their the village’s main street, most producers
Irish coffee, which is topped with chantilly cream; sell in the market at Chalatenango at
they have an odd phone charger collection should roughly the same bargain rate. If you
you need more battery life. are a real hammock lover, however, try
Comedor Carmary 3a Av Sur on the other side to catch the annual hammock festival,
of Pollo Campero. A popular comedor around which takes place November 10–12.
lunchtime, serving the locally favoured a la vista
(US$2–3), with vegetarian options too.
Don Mario’s 3a Av Sur. No need to patronize the San Francisco Lempa
Pollo Campero next door – this Mexican-style grill The little, lakeside town of San Francisco
does good big burritos for under US$4. Lempa is home to the pier for ferries
Otto’s 6 C Pte at 1a Av Sur. Otto does pizzas as to and from Suchitoto. The town itself
big as a car tyre (especiale gigante US$12) to feed is very pleasant for a dock community,
more than one hungry traveller, with smaller options but holds no real interest. In the vicinity,
starting at US$2. however, are an excellent restaurant and
Sarito 1a Av Sur. The countrywide ice-cream shop
an excellent camping spot. Tao Tao,
has a branch here with plenty of different flavours
right next to the pier, is worth tripping
to satisfy your needs on a hot day (US$1 a cone).
to even if you’re not getting a ferry. It
serves tasty, big, predominantly seafood
Moving on dishes (camerones soup US$4) on its
By bus to: Concepción Quetzaltepeque (#300B; lakeside veranda and will sort out boats
every 30min; 20min); La Palma – take the San or any kind of tourist information. Its
Salvador bus and change at Amayo (#119; every best feature, though, is its booming
303
 jukebox, which carries Creedence, the left-hand side of the bus on the way
Jim Morrison, Cypress Hill, Michael up). Eight kilometres short of the border
Jackson and the Mighty Zep. Bring lots lies the calm village of LA PALMA,
of quarters. The owners will either tell supposedly named after the indigenous
you how to walk to, or organize a boat custom of building houses out of palms.
el salvador

to Hacienda Grande, 3km west along The climate is cooler here and the peace
the shore (t 2375-1447). Probably the is really only broken during the annual
nicest camping (1 ; they have five tents fiesta of Dulce Nombre de María, in the
available for those that need to borrow) third week of February. But under the
in the country is here, next to their surface the village’s plentiful artesanías
swimming pool and restaurant (pollo are hives of industry, reproducing the
The north

dorado US$4). They also have horses you brightly painted naïf-style representa-
can take out on your own around the tions of people, villages and farming
surrounding countryside for US$4 per life and religion made famous by Salva-
hour. Boats from San Francisco Lempa doreño artist Fernando Llort in the
cost US$10, from Suchitoto US$20. 1970s on wooden and ceramic handi-
crafts and toys, which are now sold all
La Palma over the world.
Beyond Amayo, the Troncal del Norte
winds up the Cordillera Metapán Alote- What to see and do
peque to the Honduran border through
an abundance of vertiginous, pine-clad The crafts industry is the economic
mountain views (for the best views sit on mainstay of the village, with workshops

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304
lining the main road. Most sell their Piedra del Bosque Across the river from
goods on the spot and are pretty C Independencia t2335-9067, wwww
relaxed about visitors turning up to .piedradelbosque.com. Owner Oscar built this
entire ecological tree-house style complex, with
watch the work; prices are somewhat
cabins up the hill, a swimming pool fed by the river,
cheaper than in San Salvador and the clean toilets, a great restaurant, hammocks, space

el salvador
items are hard to beat as presents for for camping, a rare stone museum, craft shop
family and friends. and bonfires in the evening. He, like his place, is
North of La Palma are several fine charming and will talk you through everything here
hiking trails, including El Salvador’s stone by stone. Camping 1 , doubles 3
highest mountain, Cerro Pital (2730m),
10km away on the Honduran border. A

treat yourself
Quechelá 500m west of town

The north
rough road branches east just before La by 1 C Pte t2305-9328,
Palma to run to Las Pilas on the lower [email protected].
slopes of the mountain; a dirt road also sv. This B&B is a little walk
leads up from the village of San Ignacio from town, but the tasteful
(see p.306). Hiking to the summit is bedrooms, amazing beds, hot-
water baths, living room, bar,
an adventure of two or three days, for
views of the mountains and
which you will need to be fully equipped friendly owners make it a good
– the owners of the Hotel La Palma are treat indeed. 6
a good source of information on shorter
walks and guides.
Eating
Arrival and information
Antijoles Rincón Mexicano Next to Casa Hotel.
By bus There is no bus station as such. You can American and Salvadoreño food with no pretence
ask to get off at either end of town or in the centre; seved right on the street. It’s cheap and hits the
the bus goes along 2a Av Nte on the way up to spot (hot dog US$1.25)
the border, and C Delgado and Barrios on the way Cartagenas Pizza Av Delgado & 5a C Ote. Hearty
back down. grub like tacos and enchiladas as well as pizzas
Tourist information There is a tourist office in the (US$2–12, depending on size). They do excellent
works. Until then, Oscar at Piedra del Bosque is a banana and vanilla licuados, too (US$1).
good source of local information. Del Pueblo 2a Av Sur. A family-run establishment
with bags of character, carved wooden chairs and
Accommodation candles, Del Pueblo serves a good-value menu
featuring mostly meats and one of the best típico
There is plenty of good accommodation in La Palma breakfasts around (US$3.25).
at all price ranges – even free. La Estancia C Barrios t 2335-9049. Very busy
Casa Hotel Opposite Hotel La Palma T 2335-9129. with the locals, the menu here may seem pricey
Cosy rooms with firm beds and good furnishings but it is also served in big portions; the US$3
that include welcome bedside lights. The toilets Caesar salad is lighter and cheaper. The small-
have no seats. The owner offers a great one-month town bustle inside is overseen by colourful murals
deal for US$35. 2 of rural life.
Centro Obrero Dr Rivas 5km south of town on the Pupusería La Palma C Barrios. The best pupusería
Troncal del Norte. One of the four national workers’ in town is small and always busy with local
centres with free accommodation, this place offers residents, and serves soft and flavoursome pupusas
simple but surprisingly clean cabins in a forested (US$0.40), as well as típicos all day.
area with swimming pools.
Hotel La Palma Barrio el Tránsito T2335-9012. Shopping
Supposedly the oldest functioning hotel in El
Salvador, this reasonable place has clean, hot-water Alfredo Linares Gallery C Barrios. A small gallery
en-suites and huge Llortist murals. There’s a pool where the internationally established naïf artist
and hammock area, but like its restaurant, it seems exhibits with other local artists of his choice. The
rather overpriced. 3 fine watercolour and pen-and-ink originals are a
305
 into honduras: El poy
Crossing the border to Honduras at El Poy is straightforward and quick: the
#119 bus drops you within sight of the gate; there is a US$2 entrance charge for
Honduras, but no exit charges for El Salvador. Many trucks use this route, but
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private traffic is light; crossing early in the day is advisable. The last bus from the
border for La Palma and San Salvador leaves at 4.15pm. On the Honduran side,
buses run the 10km to Nueva Ocotepeque (see p.356) every forty minutes or so
until 5pm, departing from just the other side of the gate that marks the beginning of
Honduras.
The west

little steep, but there are also poster prints for US$8 has simple log cabins with shared bath,
and postcards for US$1. or rather better standard rooms with
Semilla de Dios 3 C Pte at 5a Av Nte wwww modern ceramic bathrooms. If you are a
.cooperativasemilladedios.com. An artistic production
group of four to seven people, one of the
line built around Llort’s iconic colourful naïf style. It
is mostly exported, so that does mean there isn’t a
three log cabins of Cabañas Prashanti
huge amount of hand-painted stuff for sale, but you (t no phone; 3 ), 500m north of town
can see how the work is done in the workshop. off the Troncal del Norte, will fit you
all while providing a sitting room, self-
Directory catering and great views from the chairs
on the porch. You can also camp at the
Exchange Banco Cuscatlán on C Delgado Parador de Compostella (t no phone;
exchanges currencies and has an ATM. tents US$5), where there are good hikes
Internet Palma City Online, next to the supermarket and tours on horseback (US$12/hr). To
on 2a Av Sur, has a fast connection, printing, photo- get there you need to take an El Poy bus;
copying and web calls for just US$0.65/hr.
look out for the big sign where the road
Pharmacy Farmacia San Rafael (Mon–Fri 8am–
12.30pm & 1.30–6pm) on C Barrios has the usual
to El Rosario turns off. Just short of El
stock of pills and toiletries. Poy, a road branching to the left crosses
Post office On 1 C Pte, with usual daytime opening the Río Lempa and runs to the village
hours. of Citalá. From here a daily bus (5am)
Supermarket Super La Palma, on 2a Av Sur, is runs west through rugged wilderness
the saviour of self-caterers. It is open until 8pm and bandito country on the scenic
every night. mountain road to Metapán, over three
to four hours. There’s a basic posada
Moving on (t no phone; US$5) close to the centre
of the village if you don’t fancy the early
By bus to: El Poy (#119; twice hourly; 30min);
morning walk.
San Ignacio (#119; twice hourly; 15min); San
Salvador, Terminal de Oriente (#119; twice hourly;
3hr 30min).

San Ignacio and

around
The west
The highway continues past La Palma The rich landscape of western El
to the Honduran border at El Poy, Salvador in many ways offers a perfect
11km away, a thirty-minute journey advertisement for the country. Soft
by bus. The village of SAN IGNACIO, mountain chains edge back from valleys
6km from La Palma and much quieter, dominated by vibrant green expanses
also has a few craft workshops and two of coffee plantations. Spared from the
places to stay. In town, La Posada de San most violent hardships of the conflict of
Ignacio, on the square (T 2352-9419; 3 ), the 1980s, the friendly towns and cities
306
here have a relatively well-developed end of January, when there’s a host of
tourist infrastructure that makes travel- music and drama performances, and
ling here easier than in other regions. the town does a good Semana Santa
The joy of this part of the country celebration at Easter, when crowds
consists largely of soaking up the flock to join the street processions and

el salvador
atmosphere. The Carretera Interameri- intricate pictures are drawn in coloured
cana runs between San Salvador and the sawdust on the pavements.
main city of the west, Santa Ana, but With such good accommodation on
the main access route to the southern the coast and up the Ruta de Flores, and
part of the region leads through the plentiful bus connections until nightfall,
sweaty town of Sonsonate, 65km west you would have to be real idiot to get

The west
of the capital. From here, buses head stuck here, but if it happens the ageing
off in several directions: down to the Hotel Orbe on Av F Mucci Sur and C 4
coast for the untouched beaches of Los Ote (T 2451-1517; 2 ), two blocks east
Cóbanos, Los Remedios and Barra de of the Parque, has large, clean rooms
Santiago; to the tranquil forest reserve with private bath, and cable TV and a/c
at Bosque El Imposible; and northwest for double that. If you want something
into the mountains. The mountain nicer than the terminal comedores, La
towns of Apaneca and Juayúa, and the Casona on 3 C Pte is famed for its meaty
nearby city of Ahuachapán are perfect comida a la vista, which will be around
for a few days’ relaxation, and are US$3. The bus terminal is 1.5km east of
conveniently situated near the border the centre – take bus #53C if you don’t
with Guatemala. The larger, centrally fancy walking.
located Santa Ana is a mellow contrast
to the capital, while the peaks of Cerro Moving on
Verde, Volcán Santa Ana and Volcán
Izalco, the sublime crater lake of Lago By bus to: Ahuachapán, via all towns on the
Ruta de Flores (#249; every 15min; 2hr); Barra
de Coatepeque, and the pre-Columbian
de Santiago (#285 direct/#259 getting off at the
site of Tazumal are all close by. In the
turning off the Carretera Litoral; 2 daily/frequent;
north of the region, near the Guatemalan 1hr 20min/1hr); Bosque El Imposible main entrance
border, the accommodating little town (#259; frequent; 1hr 20min); Los Cóbanos (#257;
of Metapán gives access to the Bosque twice hourly; 40min); La Libertad, via the Costa
Montecristo, where hiking trails weave Balsamo (#287; 2 daily; 2hr 45min); San Salvador
through unspoilt cloudforest amid (#205; frequent; 1hr 30min); Santa Ana (#216 via
some of the most remote and perfectly Los Naranjos/#209B via El Congo; 3 hourly/14 daily;
preserved mountain scenery in this part 1hr 15min/1hr 45min).
of the world.
Los Cóbanos and Los
Sonsonate Remedios
SONSONATE, set in tobacco and The idyllic white sand beach of LOS
cattle-ranching country, prickles with CÓBANOS, caressed by warm and
heat in the day and menace at night. gentle waves, is the place for sedate
It has a history of gang problems, and beach activities such as sunbathing
since there is nothing here to see, its and paddling, though it’s also the only
best feature is the bus terminal, with reef diving spot in the country. Just
connections to Los Cóbanos and Barra 25km due south of Sonsonate, via a
de Santiago to the south, and the Ruta fast highway, it is a favourite beach for
de Flores to the north. There are good Salvadoreño weekend breaks. At these
times to visit Sonsonate, chiefly the times it is better to round the headland
Verbena de Sonsonate festival at the at the west end of the small bay to the
307
 quieter beach of LOS REMEDIOS. to the south. After 35km an unmarked
Although rather rocky, the pretty, gently track leads south to PLAYA BARRA
curved beaches make a nice contrast to DE SANTIAGO, a sandy strip of land
the dark palm-fringed expanses further separating the ocean from a protected
down the coast. estuary and mangrove reserve inland.
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There are two outstanding accom- The peninsula is well inhabited by a

modation options at Los Remedios. largely fishing community, but the
The older Los Cabanos Village Lodge expanse of beach is delightfully empty
(t 2420-5248, w www.loscabanos.com; and the inhabitants still seem a little
7 ) has thatched rooms with balconies surprised to see visitors. The place to
onto the beach, fridges, coffee makers stay here is Capricho Beach House, on
The west

and great cleanliness. They also provide the left at the end of the road (t 7932-
breakfast, use of the pool, and rent 2318/7931-4517), a side project from
out snorkel gear and kayaks. A less Lena at Ximena’s in San Salvador. The
expensive option is the unnamed rooms are nicer here, with firmer metal
beachhouse (2 ), right by the headland, beds in the dorms (2 ) and doubles with
just opened by the owners of Juayúa’s fan (4 ) or a/c and en suite (5 ), and the
Hotel Anáhuac. It offers two big and outdoor kitchen is for public use. If you
spotless rooms, a hot mosaic shower, grow tired of the beach out front they
a little pool and a kitchen to cook the will organize canoe trips into the nature
morning catch. There are also plenty of reserve and probably the cheapest
hammocks and it backs right onto the deep sea fishing around (US$27/hr).
beach. The best places to eat here are There are tiendas and comedores within
the fishermen’s restaurants that line the walking distance.
shore. The delicious fish is all caught in Bus #259 from Sonsonate passes the
the morning and cooked at lunch; the turning from the Carretera, where pick-
menu depends on what they caught. ups go the village or Lena can organize
Pick any busy one – the one to the left a lift. You can also wait for direct
of Tienda Angelito is excellent. buses (#285) that go twice a day from
Bus #257 leaves Sonsonate twice Sonsonate.
every hour for Los Cóbanos until early
evening, and there are also occasional Bosque El Imposible
direct buses from San Salvador (#207); Near the border along the Carretera
the last bus leaves the beach at 5pm. Litoral is the sweaty and uninter-
esting town of Cara Sucia, from whose
barra de santiago crossroads a road leads up to one of El
West of the rough and decaying port Salvador’s greatest hidden glories,
of Acajutla, the Carretera Litoral the forest reserve of BOSQUE EL
heads to the Guatemalan border at La IMPOSIBLE, so-called because of the
Hachadura (see box below), with the difficulty found in transporting coffee
slopes of the Cordillera Apaneca rising across its heights and gorges. Covering
to the north and rolling pasturelands more than 31 square kilometres and

into guatemala: La hachadura

From Cara Sucia the highway continues the last few kilometres to La Hachadura, a
24hr border crossing used by international buses heading for Mexico and reached
via bus #259 from Sonsonate. There’s a small hospedaje on the Guatemalan side,
and buses to Guatemala City (4hr, last bus 3pm), stopping at Esquintla along the
way, leave from a kilometre down the road.

308
 RUTA De Las Flores
Beginning at the northern edge of the Bosque El Imposible and stretching east
for more than 70km from the Guatemalan border, the glorious mountains of the
Cordillera Apaneca are covered in a patchwork of coffee plantations and acres

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of pine forest. The so-called “Ruta de las Flores”, covering the area between
Concepción de Ataco and Nahuizalco, is named after the abundant white coffee
flowers visible during May and the wild flowers that colour the hills and valleys
from October to February. This stretch is one of the country’s biggest attractions,
home to a string of cool and pleasant towns with good accommodation, eating and
sights, the highlights of which are Juayúa’s now famous ferias gastronómicas, the
high Laguna Verde and the strongly artistic community of Ataco.

The west
rising through three climatic zones across are comedores and a solar-powered
the Cordillera de Apaneca, the reserve visitors’ centre which explains some
contains more than four hundred species animals found inside the park. Also
of trees and 1600 species of plants, some nearby is the good, eco-neutral Hostal
unique to the area. Birdwatchers may El Imposible (t 2411-5484; 5 ), with
glimpse some of the more than three five comfortbale cabañas, a springwater
hundred species, including the emerald pool and a very decent restaurant.
toucanet, trogons, hummingbirds and SalvaNatura allows camping on three
eagles, while the park provides a secure pitches, small campfires and rinsing
habitat for a diverse range of animals, (but not washing) in the river.
including anteaters, the white-tailed
deer and ocelot, plus over five hundred Nahuizalco
different species of butterfly. The population of the village of
Getting to El Imposible can be time NAHUIZALCO, set on the southern
consuming or expensive; there are no edge of the range about 10km north of
cheap options near the main entrance Sonsonate, is mostly descended from
and most of the San Salvador operators the region’s indigenous peoples,
listed on p.264 run expensive tours although few wear traditional dress
here. It is actually easier to approach any longer. The town thrives on the
from Tacuba in the north. Bus #259 manufacture of wicker, with workshops
stops at the crossroads in Cara Sucia on lining the main street. Some of the
its way to the Guatemalan border – get pieces are small enough to take home,
off here and catch the 11am bus or 2pm and gentle bargaining is acceptable.
pick-up to the park gate. There’s a US$6 As always, the Cedart on 3 C Pte is a
entry fee to enter the reserve, managed helpful place to start and has a shop.
by a non-governmental organization, The exciting-sounding candlelit night-
SalvaNatura (33 Av Sur 640, Col Flor markets are now largely lit by electricity,
Blanca, San Salvador; T 2279-1515, which scuppers the romantic notion
w www.salvanatura.org) – you’re meant that they were used out of necessity
to visit their office to pay and arrange rather than choice. There are no hotels
a guide before, but you can usually do here, but La Cocina de Doris on 5a Av
it by phone or just turn up and plead Nte is a large canteen serving tasty
ignorance. The main entrance to the típicos (bean soup US$2.50). Bus #249,
park is at the Desvío Ahuachapío turn- which runs the length of the Ruta de
off from the Carretera Litoral, halfway las Flores from Sonsonate to Ahuach-
between the Sonsonate–Acajutla road apán every fifteen minutes, stops at the
and Cara Sucia, and about 13.5km highway turn-off, which is a 500m walk
from the park itself. Inside the park downhill to the centre.
309
 Juayúa trekking, horseriding, geysers and
Beyond Nahuizalco, the air freshens as further coffee tours to be had locally
the road winds its way up to the colourful – organize trips with one of the tour
and colonial JUAYÚA (pronounced operators listed below.
“hwai-oo-a”). The settlement was tradi-
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tionally a coffee-producing town, but Arrival and information

when coffee prices slumped in the early By bus On weekdays, the Sonsonate-to-Ahuach-
1990s, Juayúans started the food festivals apán buses stop on the east side of the Parque
(ferias gastrónomicas) that dominate the Central, but at weekends they are pushed out to
centre every weekend. The town itself is Pasaje San Juan, three bocks west along 4 C Pte.
safe at night, clean and attractive (new Exchange Scotiabank, by the weekend bus stop on
The west

projects include murals by local painters 4 C Pte, has an ATM.

in one block of C Mercedes), and the Internet There is a café on 1a Av Nte, open until
late, with internet calling capability for US$0.75.
coffee-growing countryside around it
Tour operators Juayatur (T2469-2387) can
offers plenty of activities to work off the
provide guides to local attractions, including several
weekend’s indulgences. nearby waterfalls. César at Hotel Anáhuac does
similar tours, and speaks very good English; take a
What to see and do look at some of the options on the hotel’s website
(wwww.tikal.dk/elsalvador). Expect to pay up to
On the west side of the main square US$6 per person for guides during the week, more
stands the magnificent Templo del on weekends.
Señor de Juayúa. It was built in colonial
style in 1957, and houses the Black Accommodation
Christ of Juayúa, carved by Quiro
Cataño, sculptor of the Black Christ of It is largely quiet during the week, but at weekends
you should book ahead.
Esquipulas in Guatemala (see p.199).
Doña Mercedes 2a Av Sur & C 6 Ote T2452-
Consequently, the town is something of 2287. A cheerful place with comfortable rooms, hot
a pilgrimage site, particularly during the water and cable TV. The shared bathrooms are very
January festival (Jan 8–15). clean, or there are en suites for just US$2 more. 4
On Saturdays and Sundays the main Hotel Anáhuac 1 C Pte & 5a Av Nte
square and roads leading onto it are t2469-2401, wwww.tikal.dk/elsalvador.
replete with the feria gastrónomica’s The clear choice in town and probably the best
food stalls; look out for iguana, paella, hostel in the country, run by the young and friendly
Chinese dishes, frogs, excellent seafood couple César and Janne. Beds are comfortable,
there are powerful hot-water showers, a lovely
and chocolate-covered strawberries.
courtyard, art on the walls, free internet, a good
Motorized trains (US$1; 30min) leave DVD collection and tours organized (see above).
from in front of the church to the nearby Dorms 2 , doubles 3
coffee co-operativa, where a museum El Mirador 4 C Pte t2452-2432. A large hotel
explains the processes involved in coffee with hard mattresses in clean but gloomy en-suite
production and sells the regional blend. rooms around a two-storey atrium. internet and
There is a conga bus (US$5; 3hr) from laundry are available. 3
the same place that tours the sights of
the Ruta while a party atmosphere takes Eating and drinking
off on board.
Bar Jah By the eastern end of 2 C Ote. A
Just 2km out of town, Los Corros
truly brilliant little bar started up by a lovely
de la Callera are the town’s local English-speaking artist. The walls are lined with her
swimming spot, with two pools artifi- paintings, collages and sculptures from recovered
cially created, the top one deep enough materials. With all the art around you may feel like
to jump in. You can walk it, or take being quite proper, but she prefers it when people
a tuk-tuk at weekends. There is also go wild here. Pilsener US$1.
310
Café Festival On the south side of the Parque. walk through woods and fincas to the
This old pastelería overlooking the parque serves Laguna Verde, a small green crater-
good coffee, traditional Spanish cakes and fine lake 4km northeast of town. Fringed
breakfasts.
by reeds and surrounded by mist-clad
El Mirador 4 C Pte. Go here to take breakfast on
the third floor. They have pancakes (US$1.50) and
pine slopes, the lake is a popular desti-

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fruit salads as well as the típico and the panoramic nation, and at the weekends you’re
views, only slightly marred by the glass, are a good likely to share the path with numerous
morning eye-opener. families and groups of walkers. From
Taquería Guadalupana 2 C Ote. Big portions of the highway on the southern edge of
Mexican really good-value food on the menu here town, follow the well-signed dirt road to
– daily meal deals for US$2.50. Tacos al pastor the right of the garden centre, and keep

The west
(US$2) is a favourite. going straight up. The hamlet just above
the lake, reached after about ninety
minutes, has sweeping views from
treat yourself

Restaurant RR C Mercedes,
east of the church. One of the Ahuachapán to Cerro Artillería on the
best restaurants around, RR Guatemalan border. The grassy slopes
reinvents Central American around the lake make a good spot for a
cuisine with a Western twist picnic. Closer to town to the north, the
(red bean pasta US$8). A main smaller and less impressive Laguna Las
course will cost around US$10, Ninfas is an easy forest walk of about 45
with vegeterian options slightly minutes. Other outdoor options include
less. You won’t get the chance
horseriding tours; prospective guides
to eat this well often.
usually gather around at 1a Avenida Nte
at 4 Calle Ote, charging around US$5
per person. The town is also known
Moving on for its viveros, or plant nurseries, and
By bus to: Ahuachapán, stopping at Apaneca and Vivero Alexandro, by the track up to
Ataco (#249; twice hourly; 1hr 15min); Sonsonate, Laguna Verde on the main road, will
stopping at Nahuizalco (#249; twice hourly; 1hr). show you around, after which you can
eat their strawberries in the cheaply
Apaneca priced on-site café.
A short leg further along the road
from Juayúa stands another quiet and Arrival and information
charming mountain town – APANECA,
Exchange There is an ATM next to the Police
founded by Pedro de Alvarado in the
station, two blocks north and one block east of the
mid-sixteenth century. The town retains parque central.
an air of friendly tranquillity, decorated Internet Turbonet on the far side of the parque
by painted lampposts and tidy trimmed from the tourist office (US$0.70/hr) lets you drink
hedges, despite being both popular with beers while doing your emails.
weekend visitors and home to some Tourist office It is literally an office, but there are
fine dining and expensive accommo- some leaflets and a very helpful man at his desk. A
dation. During the week, you’re likely kiosk, opposite, is manned at weekends.
to have the place – and the wonderful
surrounding mountain scenery – all to Accommodation
yourself.
Hostal Rural Las Orquídeas 4 C Pte between 1 Av
Sur and Av Central T2433-0061. A well-signposted
What to see and do hostel at the north end of town with four clean,
simple rooms and hot water. 3
There’s little to do in Apaneca itself, but Hostel Colonia 1a Av Sur by 6 C Pte t2433-
it’s an enjoyable and not too strenuous 0662. This pretty hotel does indeed have a colonial
311
 looking courtyard, but with sofas and hammocks in
it. The rooms are good, with sturdy mattresses and What to see and do
en suite. 3 –4
Laguna Verde Guest House Left at the Ataco is home to the artist “Axul”, whose
school in the hamlet by Laguna Verde boldly coloured, manga-influenced
painted illustrations of cats, moons
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t 7859-2865. In a magnificent position on the

edge of the El Cuajusto Crater and a short walk and fish cover several buildings both
from Laguna Verde, the "guest house" is in fact here and in San Salvador. Her shop
two delightfully remote structures: the white on the corner of 1a Avenida Nte and 1
igloo with four bunks and a kitchenette is a good Calle Pte sells canvases, masks, wooden
novelty, if a little damp-smelling, but the cabin is a figures and boxes painted in style for
better pick, with views down to Ahuachapán which surprisingly little. She is also behind
The west

are beautiful at night. No one lives on the site, so the Diconte Axul, on the corner of 2a
calling ahead is essential.
Av Sur and C Centrale, which pools
together the work of many local artists,
Eating along with general bric-á-brac. Tours
of the surrounding area are available
There is a nameless comedor next to the tienda on
1a C Pte. If you want your típicos cheap, this is the
from the tourist booth at the entrance
place to come. They do full cooked meals in the to town (see p.311) – the guides can take
evening too. you to the swimming spots of the 50m
El Jardín de Celeste Km 92.5 on the road Salto de Chacala as well as the upwelling
to Ataco t2450-5647. Don’t believe the of Chorros del Limo, the opposite of a
hype: Ataco’s renowned La Cocina de mi Abuela waterfall, for around US$6 per person.
on 1a Av Nte is not what it once was and most
now rate this hotel’s restaurant to be the best Arrival and information
around. It’s not as expensive either, serving very
well-prepared típicos like pollo con arosa as well By bus Buses come and go from beside the market
as international dishes for under US$10, and with on the corner of 2 C Pte & 4a Av Nte.
its own plant nursery on site, the surroundings are Tourist information There is a tourist kiosk,
pretty good too. though it is only open on weekends from 7am until
Típicos Texizal 1a Av Nte. A brightly coloured and 7pm, at the entrance to town by the road out to
amiable restaurant, which has good daily meal Ahuachapán.
offers for US$1.50 or bigger full meals for US$5 and
tasty fried bananas for dessert. Accommodation

Moving on Hostel Alepac Southern end of 2a Av Sur

t2450-5344. This new and exciting hostel
By bus to: Ahuachapán, stopping at Ataco (#249; is the town’s first, with neat and comfortable dorms,
twice hourly; 45min); Sonsonate, stopping at as well as private rooms and camping, with tents
Nahuizalco (#249; twice hourly; 1hr 15min). provided. Amidst the eclectic decor is a very well-
equipped kitchen, laundry and a TV with DVDs; the
laid-back owner Alejandro wil sort tours for you too.
Ataco Dorms 2 , doubles 4
Unlike its quiet neighbour, ATACO is Posada Don Oli 1a Av Sur t 2450-5155. Not
full of vibrant life every day. Children bad at all for a second choice, this family-run
play in the municipal basketball court hotel has swings in its pretty courtyard, hot water,
and breakfast included. It’s a better deal for four
on the square (they’ll let you join in),
people who can all fit in one of the two rooms for
older generations chat in the square and $30. 4
you’ll see artisans at work throughout
the town. Recently some good cheap
Eating
accommodation and restaurants have
emerged here, making it an up-and- Doña Mercedes 2a Av Sur. A large, newly finished
coming destination. food hall with smart wooden tables that does an
312
excellent range of pupusas for US$0.30 a piece and and acts as the focus for the annual fiesta
good tortas along with foreign beers. in the first week of February.
Fonda y Vivero 1a Av Sur. A friendly and leafy Some 5km east of town, near the
restaurant that does good típicos in their open
hamlet of El Barro, are the ausoles
courtyard, including a great sausage and beans
(geysers) that form the basis of the local

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for $2.75.
El Portal Opposite the church. The ornate wooden geothermal industry. The plumes of
doors and Maya artefacts seem to contrast sharply steam hang impressively over the lush
with the table-top cooker, but this is good quality green vegetation and red soil – particu-
típicos – the yucca fried in cinnamon is particularly larly photogenic in the early-morning
good. light. Access to the area is via the turn-
off signed “Planta Geotérmica” on the

The west
Ahuachapán road to Apaneca – get a pick-up or take
From Apaneca the road tumbles down the yellow school bus which leaves twice
13km or so to the city of AHUACH- daily from the market. The plant itself
APÁN. This area, and the lands further is off-limits, but locals will allow you
north, are some of the oldest inhabited access to their land for a small fee, from
regions of El Salvador, due in large part where you can get a better view.
to the extremely fertile soil. Artefacts
found in the region date back to 1200 Arrival and information
BC and the early Maya. Ahuachapán
By bus The terminal, a chaotic affair, is on Av
is also one of the oldest Spanish settle-
Comercial, between C 10 and 12 Pte, eight blocks
ments in the country, made a city in
from the Plaza Concordia.
1862, and like most towns in the area, Tourist information There is no tourist office,
its wealth grew from the coffee trade. but Tours & Aventuras (t2422-0016) will tell you
Today the city retains an air of peaceful about things to do in the area while trying to sell
charm, with tight streets and a quiet you a tour.
Parque Central. The main industry is
geothermal electricity generation, at Accommodation
one time supplying seventy percent of
the country’s power, but the generator Las Brisas del Mar On Laguna Espino t 2443-
stations cannot be visited and like many 0775. The local discoteca owner offers camping
by the lake, with use of pool and hammocks. It is a
of El Salvador’s bigger cities, it is princi-
pretty spot, and there is a restaurant on site too. 2
pally a springboard for surrounding
La Casa Blanca 2a Av Nte at C Barrios T2443-
attractions. 1505, wwww.casablancaahuachapan.com. A good
value option, housed in a well-decorated colonial
What to see and do building with large, clean rooms, all with bath and
TV. The restaurant is slightly overpriced but set
Confusingly, the Parque Central is around a relaxing courtyard. 5
not at the exact centre of town, but two Hotel San José 6 C Ote T2443-0033. On the
blocks east of the intersection of the little plaza two blocks west from the bus station,
two main streets, Calle Gerardo Barrios this place has clean, recently refurbished en-suite
and Avenida Francisco Menéndez. The rooms, though some are a little dark. 4
latter and 2a Avenida Nte run parallel to
each other from the bus terminal to the Eating and drinking
cathedral on the Parque.
Las Brisas del Mar On Laguna Espino t 2443-
The imposing white edifice of the 0775. The best disco in town, which blares corny
Iglesia Parroquia de Nuestra Señora pop out over the lake, is actually 5km out of town,
de la Asunción, on the Plaza Concordia, but call them and they will give you a free lift here,
with good stained glass and a wooden and back, from your hotel. It’s really popular with
ceiling, dominates the centre of the city the locals.
313
 Casa Grande 4a Av Nte 2 There’s plenty of character the southern one, is now the best point
here, with loud music blaring and a standard menu of entry to the dramatic Bosque El
featuring some game specialities including venison Imposible, and Tazumal, a short trip
(venado) and rabbit (conejo) for under US$6.
north, is one of the best Pipil sites in the
La Estancia 1a Av Sur at C Barrios. Housed in
a rather run-down former coffee mansion, this
country.
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comedor has well-prepared comida a la vista at

standard prices. Tacuba
Mixta “S” 2a Av Sur by the Parque. A “mixta” is a Fifteen kilometres west of Ahuach-
flat bread stuffed with meat, cheese or vegetables, apán lies the quiet mountain village
and that is what they do here for under US$2, as of Tacuba, reached via a winding and
well as some fast food and a big selection of fruit scenic road with grand views of coffee
The west

juices. plantations and the Bosque El Imposible

(see p.308). An important settlement
Directory existed here long before the Spaniards
arrived, and the village retains strong
Exchange Scotiabank is on the corner of C 4 Pte
folkloric traditions, although you’ll only
& Av Francisco Menéndez, with money exchange,
traveller’s cheque-cashing abilities and an ATM.
really notice these at fiesta time.
Internet Infocentros (US$1/hr), on C 3 Pte at 1a The town is small and welcoming,
Av Nte, has a fast connection and headphones for but the only thing to see is the ruins of
web calls. the colonial church, which was much
Pharmacy Farmacia Central, 2a Av Sur & C Barrios less ruined before the 2001 earth-
(t 2443-0158), will sort you out. quake. Either the guard or Manolo of
Post office There is a branch at C 1 Ote & 1a Av Imposible Tours (see box, p.315) will let
Sur (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–noon). you in to walk through and climb up the
Supermarkets There are two supermarkets, De
remaining structure. The real draw of
Todo and Despensa Familiar, by the bus terminal.
Tacuba is, however, its back route into
Telephones Telecom is at C 3 Pte & 2a Av Sur by
the Parque.
Bosque El Imposible and the outdoor
activities it offers.
The mama and papa referred to at
Moving on Hostel Mamá y Papá, 1 C 1 (t 2417-
By bus to: Chalchuapa, for Tazumal (#210; 4268; dorms 2 , doubles 3 ) are Mr and
frequent; 30min); Las Chinamas (#263; every Mrs Gonzáles, parents of Manolo (see
15min; 45min); Santa Ana (#202/#210; frequent; box opposite) and very good hosts.
1hr); San Salvador (#202; frequent; 3hr 30min); Hot showers, clean and comfortable
Sonsonate (#249; every 15min; 2hr 30min); Tacuba rooms, coffees every morning and
(#264/#15; three hourly; 40min). shady hammocks help, and the roof
terrace is a nice place to watch the sun-
Around Ahuachapán set with a beer. If this is full, Miraflores
While the Ruta de Las Flores heads on 2a Av Nte (t 2417-4746; 4 ) is
off to the east, there are also two great bright and breezy and birds sing in the
spots to the north and south. Tacuba, floral courtyard. Try to get an en-suite

into guatemala: las chinamas

From Ahuachapán, a reasonably good and very scenic road runs the 20km or so
to the Guatemalan border, just past Las Chinamas. Local buses (#11AH) leave
for the border every fifteen minutes, taking about an hour. International buses from
Santa Ana also pass through at about 5.30am. There is no ticket office – stand on C
6 Pte more or less opposite the Hotel San José and flag them down. Buses run to
Guatemala City from Valle Nuevo on the Guatemalan side.

314
 Imposible tours
Imposible Tours (W www.imposibletours.com), based in Tacuba, is without a doubt
one of the best tour operations in the country, due in most part to good-humoured
and charismatic leader Manolo Gonzáles, whose ceaseless enthusiasm for what he

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does comes from a genuine desire to get to know everyone he guides. Though the
company’s hallmark tour takes you along the back route to Bosque El Imposible
along a series of occasionally staggering waterfalls, the set-up is flexible and you
can work out what you want to do with him. Other ideas include mountain-biking
along ridges to the coast, several day-treks and sitting in hot volcanic springs with
a beer or two. Tours start from US$20 per person.

The west
room – they are brighter and with two decent museum (same hours; Spanish
windows on the first floor. Rates include only) displays artefacts discovered
two meals. There is another good place during excavations. The nearby ruins
to eat and drink opposite the hostel, as of El Trapiche and Casa Blanca are
well as a few unextravagant comedores currently being excavated and aren’t yet
in town. Tacuba can be reached by bus open to the public.
(#264) or minibus (#15) every fifteen Bus #218 drops passengers off at a
minutes from Ahuachapán, a journey of small plaza a few blocks from the centre
forty-five minutes. of town; from here, walk uphill for about
four blocks and follow the sign.
Tazumal
Northeast from Ahuachapán, the road Santa Ana
winds down onto a broad and scenic Self-possessed SANTA ANA, El Salva-
plain, and the town of Chalchuapa, dor’s second city, lies in a superb
whose main draw is the archeological location in the Cihautehuacán valley.
site of Tazumal (Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; Surrounded by green peaks, with the
US$3) on the edge of town. The ruins slope of Volcán Santa Ana rising to the
over a period of 750 years, mostly southwest, the gently decaying colonial
during the Late Classic period (600–900 streets exude a certain bourgeois
AD) are – by comparison with sites complacency and restrained, provin-
in Honduras and Guatemala – rather cial calm that is generally only ruptured
small, although they do have their own, during the July fiesta, when a host of
impressive, beauty. Parts of the central events bring the streets to life. It’s a good
and largest structure – a fourteen- place to relax, see the classiest Parque
stepped ceremonial pyramid, influenced Central around and have a couple of
by the style of Teotihuacán in Mexico nights out, though the natural attrac-
and sadly rather sloppily restored tions of Lago de Coatepeque, the forest
– dating back to between 100–200 AD reserve of Cerro Verde, and the Santa
have been found beneath it. The Maya Ana and Izalco volcanoes all beckon.
abandoned the city around the end of
the ninth century, during the collapse of What to see and do
the Classic Maya culture, and, unusually,
Pipils moved in and occupied the site, Santa Ana’s town centre is arguably the
building a pyramid dating back to the finest Parque Central in the country. The
Early Postclassic (900–1200 AD) and plaza itself is neatly laid out with a small
another pelota court, to the northwest bandstand, where people gather to sit and
corner of the site. Tazumal was finally chat in the early evening, surrounded by
abandoned around 1200 AD. A very eye-catching architecture.
315
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Guatemala. Commenting on the Teatro Nacional
beauty and fertility of the area, he On the northern edge of the plaza, the
ordered work to begin on a church Teatro Nacional, completed in Renais-
dedicated to Nuestra Señora de sance style in 1910, was funded by taxes
Santa Ana, the saint of the day of his on local dignitaries. Once the proud
arrival. Completed seven years later, home of the country’s leading theatre
this occupied the site of the present companies, the building became
cathedral until it was destroyed in the a movie theatre before falling into
early twentieth century to make way disuse. Now well-restored to something
for the new building. resembling its former glories, it once
316
again hosts recitals and concerts, as
well as exhibitions and plays. Check
Accommodation
at the booth next to the entrance for The area around 8a and 10a Av Sur has the highest
upcoming dates. concentration of cheap and basic places to stay,
codependent on the vice industry operating on the

el salvador
Alcaldía streets at night. Book ahead to get a spot in Casa
Facing the cathedral on the western Frolaz or Casa Verde.
edge of the plaza is the Alcaldía, Casa Frolaz 29 C Pte t2440-5302,
wwww.casafrolaz.com. One of the country’s
another fine Renaissance-style piece
finest accommodation options is in the house of
of cream-coloured architecture – for Javier Díaz, who by all accounts is descendant
writer Paul Theroux its facade possessed of one of the oldest families, a painter of inter-

The west
the “colonnaded opulence of a ducal national repute and certainly a perfect host. The
palace.” Although there is nothing to do lodging could be three times the price. Private
in it, and for that matter nothing inher- kitchen, laundry, hot water and a fruit-filled garden.
ently ducal about it, the building is quite Camping 1 , dorms 2 , doubles 3
easy on the eyes. Casa Verde 7 C Pte between 8a & 10a
Av Sur t 7860-7180. A new hotel and
very good option close to the centre, and quite
Museo Regional del different from the standard of its neighbours.
Occidente Spotless rooms on an open courtyard and really
On the second block down Avenida well-equipped kitchen. There are board games
Independencia from the parque, and a laundry machine and the young owners are
the Museo Regional del Occidente keen and helpful. 2
(Tues–Sun 9am–noon & 1–5pm; El Faro 14a Av Sur t2447-7787. Packets of sweet
US$0.35) provides a comprehensive and savoury snacks await in these fairly clean
introduction to the region’s history rooms covered in bold murals. There is one good
room with three double beds upstairs, hot water
and archeological sites, though the
and a stained-glass balcony from where you can
best bit is the room dedicated to the safely observe the vice below. The hotel is safe and
various evolving forms of legal tender secure, but you should not go out at night in the
in the country, right up to the dollar area alone. 3
– it is a strangely exciting exhibit. Hotel Libertad C 4 Ote at 1a Av Nte T 2441-
2358, E [email protected]. Great location
Arrival right by the cathedral with gigantic, quite clean and
basic rooms with TV, some with bathroom. There
By bus The main terminal is on 10a Av Sur is free internet for guests. Bring your own padlock
between C 13 & 15 Pte. Buses for Metapán for the doors. 3
(#325) arrive and depart two blocks west of the Hotel Tazumal C 25 Pte & 10a Av Sur T 2440-
main terminal, in front of the Despensa Familiar 2830. Large rooms in an ageing building around a
supermarket, and international buses to and from courtyard. Service is amiable and all rooms are en
Guatemala arrive and depart from C 25 Pte between suite, some with cable TV, some with a/c. If both
6a & 8a Av Sur, just north of Casa Frolaz. the casas are full, this is the next most pleasant
in town. 3
City transport
Eating
Buses Bus #51 runs between the centre and the
bus terminal, and you can take any bus going up Santa Ana has a reasonable number of moderately
and down Av Independencia to get between the priced places to eat. If you’re desperate, there’s
centre and the Metrocentro. fast food along Av Independencia, and in the
Taxis There are stands on the parque, outside the Metrocentro.
Metrocentro and on 10a Av Sur, by the market, or Ban Ban Av Independencia Sur. The best bakery
you can just hail one on the street. They should in town, with a second outlet in the Metrocentro,
cost US$3–4, which you should politely agree has sandwiches for lunch, and cake, pastries and
beforehand. coffee all day.
317
 Café Expresión C 11 Pte between 6a and 8a Av Los Horcones Next to the cathedral on Parque
Sur wwww.expresion.com.sv. An arts and cultural Libertad t2484-7511. The best views in the city,
centre, bookshop and internet café in bohemian with seats on a rickety terrace facing the cathedral
surroundings. They do especially good sandwiches, and plaza. There are drinks promotions on Sat, and
as well as full meals (US$6–7) and desserts things frequently kick off with some dancing by
(US$2–3). Closed Sun. the tables.
el salvador

Cafetéría Central 2a Av Sur between C 1 & 3 Pte. Jam Rock Off the bypass south of town.
A good comedor for breakfast and cheap lunches. This young and cool bar with regular and
There’s basic comida a la vista available, as well as good live bands is the nightspot in Santa Ana at the
excellent pupusas (US$1.50). moment. Beers are just US$1 and the atmosphere
Lovers’ Steak House 4a Av Sur & 17 C Pte is very friendly.
t 2440-5717. A huge meat grill and Santa Ana Paulina’s Av Independencia at C 7 Pte. Bar and
The west

institution that serves huge portions of meat and restaurant with a variety of international meals for
seafood, accompanied by wine or beer, which will less than US$4 with a background of blaring music
also be accompanied by a bocadillo (appetizer). videos. Nicely furnished with log tables and chairs
Mains will cost around US$10, but you will surely as well as a jukebox.
be full when you leave. El Pelicano Av Moraga, 1km south of town
Parrilla Texana C Libertad between 4a & 2a Av t2449-0386. A small bar with good food, including
Sur. Meats served from the grill in a variety of over sixty appetizers (US$1.50–3), just three of
combinations and forms in American diner-style which will fill you up. They play contemporary
decor. Though around the US$8 mark for a main music and regularly host karaoke.
course, the portions are large and the food good.
El Sin Rival C Libertad Ote. A cool place to chill out Entertainment
in the centre, this sorbetería serves small (US$0.50)
and large (US$0.70) cones of sorbet – blueberry Cinema Cinemark, in the Metrocentro, shows
is the best of the original flavours. There are other dubbed or subtitled Hollywood blockbusters.
branches in town. Theatre The beautifully restored Teatro Nacional
(see p.259; t 2447-6268) has a calendar of
classical music, theatre and performance arts.
treat yourself

Quatro Estaciones 23 C Pte &

Look out in the Friday Prensa Gráfica or stop by
8a Av Sur t 2440-3168. Unlike
to find out times. Tickets should be under US$4
the other pricier options, this
a show.
smart local favourite marks
itself out by fine cooking rather
than size of portion. It has an Directory
Italian influence with good
bruschetta and spaghetti dishes Exchange There is a clump of four or five banks
accompanied by a fine wine around 2a Av Nte behind the Alcaldía, while
menu and coffee selection. Banco Cuscatlán is on the corner of C 3 Pte & Av
US$15–20 per head. Independencia.
Internet Time Out (open until 7 or 9pm;
US$1/90min) is on 10a Av Sur by Casa Frolaz, while
Infocentros, on Av Independencia between C 9 & 11
Ote, is near the centre (until 7pm; US$1/hr).
Drinking and nightlife
Market The Mercado Central is on 8a Av Sur
Much of Santa Ana’s pretty decent nightlife is between C 1 & 3 Pte, and the Mercado de
outside of the centre to the south, so get a taxi Artesanías, with a range of national crafts, is on
(US$3–4). Heading out, they’re easily found on Av 1a Av Sur.
Independencia, on the way back, get the barman to Post office The city’s office is on Av Independencia
arrange one. between 7 & 9 C Pte (Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm).
Drive Inn Molina 25a Av Sur at Carretera Antigua Supermarket La Despensa de Don Juan (8am–
t 2447-5290. A little out of town and best 8pm), on the southeast corner of the park, has a
accessed by taxi, this big and well-known nightspot good selection; there is also a bigger supermarket
has pool tables, live music and dancing. The best at the Metrocentro.
night to go is Thurs, but it’s lively all weekend. Open Telephones Telecom is on C Libertad at 5a Av Sur,
from 11am until the early morning. just down from the Parque Central.

318
 into guatemala: San cristóbal la frontera
Crossing to Guatemala at San Cristóbal is quick and easy: open 24hr, it’s free
and there are frequent buses from Santa Ana (#36; 1hr) to the crossing. There are
no official exchange facilities, but the touting moneychangers can offer reasonable

el salvador
rates. On the Guatemalan side, buses run to Asunción Mita, with connections to
Guatemala City.

Centro de Obreros which is, of course,

Moving on free so long as you have a permit from
By bus to: Ahuachapán (#210; frequent; 1hr); the Ministeros de Trabajo (see p.264).

The west
Chalchuapa (#218; frequent; 30min); Guatemala Bring a sleeping bag or sheets and
City, Guatemala (standard/first class; hourly/2 daily; mosquito repellent. The road leads
4hr/3hr 30min); Juayuá (#238; 6 daily; 1hr 30min); on to the more comfortable Hotel
Lago de Coatepeque (#220; twice hourly; 1hr Torremolinos (T 2441-6037, e hotel-
30min); Metapán (#235; three hourly; 1hr 15min); [email protected]; 4 ), with
Parque Nacional Los Volcanes (#248; 6 daily; 1hr large, clean rooms, two pools and a
30min); San Cristóbal (#248; three hourly; 1hr); San
small private beach. They also arrange
Salvador (#201; frequent; 1hr 30min); Santa Elena,
Belize via Flores, Guatemala (daily; 9hr); Sonsonate
boat trips, but rates are much higher
(#216/209; frequent; 1hr 15min/1hr 45min). than at Rancho Alegre. The comedor
on the pier is pretty good, and nice
around santa ana and cheap; otherwise the restaurant
in Torremolinos is the best around,
One of the best advantages to Santa Ana
and getting a meal could earn you the
is its access to the volcano climbing and
right to jump in the pool if you’re not
a crater lake as picturesque as you are
staying.
ever likely to see to the southeast. As
Buses #220 and #240 leave Santa
neither has particularly good accom-
Ana every thirty minutes for the lake,
modation, it’s worth commuting for the
taking an hour and passing all points
day to each one.
of interest mentioned. If you’re heading
back to San Salvador, take the Santa Ana
Lago de Coatepeque bus as far as El Congo then walk down
From El Congo junction, 14km southeast the slip road to the main highway and
of Santa Ana, a winding branch road catch any bus running from Santa Ana
descends to the truly stunning crater- to the capital.
lake of Lago de Coatepeque. The views
are so nice that it’s worth getting off Parque nacional los
the bus at the mirador, 4km from the
water’s edge, so you can take your time volcanes
soaking them in, and then walking Around 14km southeast of Santa Ana
down the rest of the way. As much of on the Interamericana, a narrow road
the shore is bounded by private houses, winds up from the El Congo junction
access to the water itself is difficult. Boat through coffee plantations, maize
rides are available at Turicentro Rancho fields and pine woods to the PARQUE
Alegre (in reality little more than a pier NACIONAL LOS VOLCANES
and a comedor), costing from US$3 per (daily 7am–5.30pm; US$1). Here the
person for a thirty-minute trip to US$15 three volcanic peaks of Cerro Verde,
per person for a full circuit of the lake, Santa Ana and Izalco form a living
with prices based on a group of four. example of geological evolution and
Accommodation on the lake is offer great climbing and ecotourism
limited. If on a budget, there is a opportunities.
319
 suggests, erupting violently, killing two
What to see and do people in a a boiling mudslide that broke
The oldest volcano in the park, Cerro off down its side and spitting rocks, some
Verde, is now a softened, densely the size of cars, in a one-mile radius. A
vegetated mountain harbouring a wealth second eruption was predicted, though
el salvador

of wildlife. Santa Ana, the highest has never materialized, and evacuated
volcano in the country at 2365m, has communities have long since moved
erupted out of its dormant state, whilst back. Nonetheless, at the time of writing
Izalco, one of the youngest volcanoes in the trek to the top remained closed. If
the world, is an almost perfect, bare lava reopened, guided climbs will follow the
cone of unsurpassed natural beauty, and same format as Volcán Izalco (see below);
The west

a very novel climb. check with Corsatur (t 2243-7835) for

an update. Some guides may offer to take
Volcán Cerro Verde you up through the woodlands and lava
Dense forest fills the crater of the long- formation to the top, but as this involves
extinct Volcán Cerro Verde, inside of hiding from the police, it is unadvisable.
which a now-rare mix of Salvadoran
flora and fauna combine, like a big bowl Volcán Izalco
of nature soup. The numerous species Sitting in contrast to the green slopes
of plants, include pinabetes and more around it, the bleak, black volcanic pile
than fifty species of orchid, are best of majestic Volcán Izalco began as a
viewed in season, while armadillos and small hole in the ground in 1770. The
white-tailed deer are shy and hard to see volcano formed rapidly over the next
year-round. Agoutis, which look like tall two centuries, during which time its lava
guinea pigs, can be found rummaging in plume, known as the “lighthouse of the
the forest floor, but it’s the birds that are Pacific”, was used by sailors to navigate.
most regularly spotted. Hummingbirds Then in 1966, just as a new hotel was
and toucans are commonly seen, as is built at its base, the plume dried up. Now
the shimmering green motmot (torogoz guided tours leave daily at 11am from
– El Salvador’s national bird) identifiable the car park for the steep climb to the top
by its pendulous tail. Miradors along the (3–4hr; US$1). The guides are compul-
way overlook Volcán Santa Ana and, far sory, for your safety, set up in response to
below, Lago de Coatepeque. muggings. A marked trail leads from the
From the car park (see below), go lookout down for about thirty minutes to
clockwise along the main trail, the a saddle between Volcán Santa Ana and
sendero natural, for an enjoyable walk Volcán Izalco. From here it takes at least
of around 45 minutes through the green an hour to climb the barren moonscape
calm of the forest. Smaller trails branch of volcanic scree to the summit. Bring
off through the trees if you want to water and good shoes.
explore. The trails are clear and very well
managed, but can get busy at weekends. Arrival
Sonsonate-bound bus #248 runs directly to the
Volcán Santa Ana
car park (6 daily; 1hr 30min) from the Vencedora
A path branches left from a signed turn terminal in Santa Ana; catch the 8.30am departure
ten minutes into the sendero natural, and if you want to catch the guides.
leads eventually to the summit of Volcán
Santa Ana, known also as “Ilamatepec”
Accommodation
(Nahuat for “old lady mountain”). In
October 2005 the old lady turned out If you have your own tent, you can camp for free
to be a bit more vigorous than her name around the visitors’ centre at the car park, though
320
like most pitches in the country, there are no
dedicated facilities, so bring food and water; ask a Arrival and information
warden to tell you where to set up.
By bus Buses arrive at the main terminal on the
Carretera Internacional, five or six blocks from the
Moving on centre down C 15 de Septiembre, which heads

el salvador
past the market and most of the hotels towards the
The last bus from the car park leaves at 5pm and centre.
runs to El Congo only, from where you can pick up
services to either Santa Ana or San Salvador.
Accommodation
metapán Hotel California Carretera Internacional at 9 C Ote
Forty kilometres north of Santa Ana, t 2442-0561. Fans of new hotels will prefer to go

The west
the small, friendly town of METAPÁN a little further from the centre for these spotless
is scenically situated on the edge of the en-suite rooms – arguably the best in town. 3
Hotel Central Av Isero Menendez T7535-6112.
mountains of the Cordillera Metapán–
More basic, and cheaper, slightly creaky rooms are
Alotepeque, which run east along the available here. It is not a bad choice though it is
border with Honduras. Metapán was one well cleaned and the beds are fine, but some may
of only four communities that supported begrudge the lack of toilet seats. 2
Delgado’s first call for independence in Hotel Christina 4a Av Sur & C 15 de Septiembre
1811. With low-set, gently whitewashed T2442-0044. A nice hotel by the market which
buildings, it is one of the more pleasant of offers hot water, a/c and balconies over the street,
Salvadoran provincial towns, the market supplies towels and has some lovely old furniture,
less unsightly than most and confined to although the beds are a little soft. 3 –4
the outskirts well away from the centre.
The main reason for staying in Metapán, Eating
however, is for access to the international
Antojitos La Nueva Esperanza Off the Parque on
reserve of Bosque Montecristo, jointly Av Benjamin Valiente. This lofty food hall in a colonial
administered by the governments of El building is excellent, with seven dishes of comida a
Salvador, Honduras and Guatemala. la vista a day (US$2–3). Open until 10pm at nights.
Casa de Teja Just off the north side of the Parque
What to see and do on Av 1a Nte. A new bar and restaurant with a well-
procured collection of antique knick–knacks and
At the Parque Central, the Iglesia de well-prepared dishes like mariscada (US$6.50) and
la Parroquia, completed in 1743, is tacos (US$3). It’s a good spot for a relaxed evening
one of El Salvador’s finest colonial drink too.
Pastelería La Exquisita C 15 de Septiembre
churches, with a beautifully preserved
near Hospedaje Central. Best for breakfast, selling
facade. Inside, the main altar is flanked cakes and sweets as well as a small selection of
by small pieces worked in silver from a lunches, all served by Osh-Kosh-wearing staff. Try
local mine while the ornately decorated a “Jennifer” – a cupcake that’s so pretty you won’t
cupola features paintings of San want to bite into it (US$1.50).
Gregorio, San Augustín, San Ambrosio
and San Gerónimo. On the south side Directory
of the plaza, the colonnaded Alcaldía is
an attractive building in its own right, Exchange If you need to change money, there’s a
watched over by two statues of jaguars Banco Salvadoreño on the park and a Scotiabank at
Av Ignacio Gomez and C 15 de Septiembre.
symbolizing the strength and suffering
Internet Cyber Net, on the northeast corner of the
of the indigenous people of the depart- park, is one of the best in the country, with a sofa and
ment. The west side, rather bizarrely, PlayStation as well as US$0.60 per hour connection.
is formed by a concrete-grey football Supermarket Near the bus terminal on
stadium, a hideous construction that Carretera Internacional is the Supermercado de
somewhat ruins the ambience. Todo (7am–7pm).
321
 into guatemala: AnguiatÚ
Another usually smooth border crossing to Guatemala lies 13km further north from
Metapán at Anguiatú. It is open day and night and the most convenient crossing
if you’re heading for Esquipulas in Guatemala (see p.198), or the Copán ruins in
el salvador

Honduras. Regular buses run from the Guatemalan side to Chiquimula until 5.30pm.
If you’re coming in the other direction note that the last bus to Metapán leaves at
6.30pm.

however, and you can branch off in any

Moving on direction – bring warm clothing and
The west

By bus to: Anguiatú and the Guatemalan border good footwear. Trails also lead from just
(#211A/#235; twice hourly; 30min); San Salvador below Los Planes to the peaks of Cerro el
(#201A; 6 daily; 2hr); Santa Ana (#235; three Brujo and Cerro Miramundo.
hourly; 1hr 30min).
Arrival and information
Around Metapán
If you are not crossing the border yet, The park entrance is 5km from
there is only one thing to see around Metapán. Pay the entrance fee (US$6
Metapán: the beautiful Bosque MonteÂ� per person and US$1.50 per vehicle)
cristo straddling the three countries of here. After another 2km you come
El Salvador, Honduras and Guatemala. to the Hacienda San José, where the
wardens are based and where you have
Bosque Montecristo to register. From here the road continues
The brilliant Bosque Montecristo reserve for another 14km before reaching Los
rises through two climatic zones to the Planes (1890m), where there is a small
Punto Trifinio, the summit of Cerro restaurant, camping area (no cost, but
Montecristo (2418m), where the borders no equipment to rent; bring food and
of Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador water), two new and simple cabañas
converge. The higher reaches of Monte- sleeping up to eight each (US$35 per
cristo, beginning at around 2100m, are cabin) and an orchid garden.
home to an expanse of virgin cloudforest, Getting to Los Planes can be a little
with an annual rainfall of two metres and expensive, so try to get into a group of
one hundred percent humidity. Orchids four and organize a taxi from around
and pinabetes thrive in these climatic the Parque Central in Metapán (US$45
conditions, while huge oaks, pines return). Alternatively, have a tour
and cypresses, some towering to over operator take you from San Salvador
20m, swathed in creepers, lichens and (US$30–50 per person; see p.264 for
mosses, form a dense canopy preventing listings). Occasional pick-ups make the
sunlight from reaching the forest journey up for a negotiable fee; the best
floor. Wildlife abounds, with howler place to catch them is at the turning to
and spider monkeys the most visible the Bosque, by Hotel San José on the
mammals, and jaguars and other large Carretera Internacional. You need to
mammals hiding out. Birds including get permission to enter the Bosque in
hummingbirds, quetzals, toucans and advance from the Ministerio de Medio
the regional endemic bushy-crested jay Ambiente in San Salvador (T 2223-
are more easily seen. Walking straight 0444). Note that you're not allowed
to the summit is a truly rewarding climb to enter on foot, and that the upper
of around four hours; the path from Los reaches of cloudforest are closed to
Planes leads through the cloudforest, visitors from May to October.
322
 Honduras

Greece
highlights

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<G68>6H/
dcZd[i]ZXdjcignÉh
daYZhiidlchVcYi]Z
\ViZlVnidi]ZEVgfjZ
CVX^dcVa8ZaVfjZ

DAILY BUDGET Basic US$30/ POPULATION 7.3 million

fact file
rough costs

occasional treat US$45 AREA 112,090 sq km

DRINK Nacional beer US$1.50 LANGUAGES Spanish, English in
FOOD Almuerzo típico US$2.75–5.25 the Bay Islands
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CURRENCY Honduras Lempira (L)
US$2.75/US$4/US$5.25–11 CAPITAL Tegucigalpa (population:
TRAVEL Copán–San Pedro Sula 1.7 million)
(140km) by bus: 3hr, US$5.25 INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
t504
TIME ZONE GMT –6

323
 Introduction
All too often, Honduras receives short shrift on travellers’
Central American itineraries: most visitors either race to see
the Maya ruins at Copán or to the palm-fringed beaches of the
honduras

Bay Islands, and skip the rest of the country entirely. And while
these are two beautiful, worthy sights, there’s much more to
Honduras – from the wetlands of Mosquitia to the subtropical
shore of the Golfo de Fonseca, this is a land of inspiring, often
untouched natural beauty – and a longer visit will pay ample
Introduction

rewards.
Gradually, Honduras is waking up to Sula, the Lago de Yojoa region offers
its potential as an ecotourism desti- birdwatching, caves and a 43-metre
nation – its network of national parks waterfall, and the sparsely populated
and preserves is extensive – and the region of Olancho and the Sierra de
potential benefits of an increased tourist Agalta national park has the most
infrastructure for the country’s strug- extensive stretch of virgin cloudforest in
gling economy (it’s the second poorest Central America. Meanwhile, colonial
country in Central America, with over towns like Santa Rosa de Copán and
of half of Hondurans living below the Gracias offer fantastic restaurants,
poverty line). The jewel in the crown hot springs and access to indigenous
Honduras’s natural resources is the villages. The capital, Tegucigalpa, is
biosphere reserve of the Río Plátano somewhat underwhelming, but is home
in Mosquitia. Encompassing one of to the best facilities and services in the
the finest remaining stretches of virgin country; while 100km south of the city
tropical rainforest in Central America, lies the volcanic Isla El Tigre, a little
the region is largely uninhabited and visited but worthwhile getaway.
a trip here really does get you off the
beaten track. On the Caribbean coast, Chronology
Tela and Trujillo are good-sized towns
1000 BC Maya settlers move into the Río Copán
with great beaches, while La Ceiba, a bit valley.
larger and with a thriving nightlife, is the 100 AD Construction of the city of Copán begins.
departure point for the aforementioned 426 AD Maya royal dynasty is founded. Copán, the
Bay Islands, home to world-class diving civilization’s centre for artistic and scientific develop-
and a rich cultural mix. Moving inland ment, controls area north to the Valle de Sula, east to
from the energetic city of San Pedro Lago de Yojoa and west into present-day Guatemala.

When to visit
The climate in Honduras is generally dictated by altitude. In the central highlands,
the weather is pleasantly warm in the daytime and cool at night. The hot Pacific and
Caribbean coasts offer the relief of breezes and cooling rain showers, while San
Pedro Sula and other lowland towns can be positively scorching in summer.
Honduras’s rainy season, “winter” (invierno), runs from May to November. In
much of the country it rains for only a few hours in the afternoon, though along
the northern coast and in Mosquitia rain is a constant feature year-round. October
and November are the only months you might want to avoid in these parts: this is
hurricane season.
324
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Introduction honduras

325
 the football war
In one of the more bizarre conflicts in modern Latin American history, on July
14, 1969, war broke out on the Honduras–El Salvador border. Ostensibly caused
by a disputed result in a soccer match between the two countries, the conflict
also stemmed from tensions generated by a steady rise in illegal migration of
campesinos from El Salvador into Honduras in search of land.
honduras

In April 1969 the Honduran government had given settlers thirty days to return
to El Salvador, and then begun forced expulsions – the result was the break-out of
sporadic violence. In June, the two countries began a series of qualifying matches for
the 1970 World Cup. The first game, held in Tegucigalpa, was won by Honduras, with
a score of 1–0. At the second game (won 3–0 by El Salvador), held in San Salvador,
spectators booed the Honduran national anthem and attacked visiting Honduran
Introduction

fans. The third, deciding match was then pre-empted by the El Salvadoran army
bombing targets in Honduras, and advancing up to 40km into Honduran territory.
After three days, around 2000 deaths and a complete breakdown of diplomatic
relations, the Organization of American States (OAS) negotiated a ceasefire,
establishing a three-kilometre-wide demilitarized zone along the border. Tensions
and minor skirmishes continued, however, until 1980, when a US-brokered peace
treaty was signed. Only in 1992 did both sides finally accept an International Court
of Justice ruling demarcating the border in its current location.

900 AD Maya civilization collapses, and Copán is 1830 Honduran Francisco Morazán elected
abandoned. Lenca become the predominant indige- president of Republic after defeating Conservative
nous group, settling in small, scattered communities forces in Guatemala.
and absorbing other indigenous cultures. 1839 Honduras and Nicaragua go to war against
1502 Christopher Columbus arrives on the island El Salvador. Morazán resigns, and the Central
of Guanaja, naming it “Isla de Pinos” (Island of American Republic is essentially finished.
Pines). First Catholic mass in Latin America is held Independence is not kind to Honduras’ economy
on August 14. or infrastructure, and intense rivalry between
1524 Hernán Cortés sends Cristóbal de Olid from Liberals and Conservatives keeps the country
Mexico to claim the isthmus in Cortes’s name; the in an almost permament state of political and
man arrives himself one year later, founds Puerto military conflict.
Cortés and Trujillo, then returns to Mexico. 1876 Liberal Dr Marco Aurelio Soto is elected
1524–1571 Indigenous population declines from president. Improves infrastructure and encourages
400,000 to around 15,000. foreign investment.
1536 Pedro de Alvarado arrives from Guatemala Late 1800s Banana industry develops with arrival
to govern the territory. Lempira, a Lenca chieftain, of US fruit companies, which gain control of
amasses a 30,000-man force, which rebels against national infrastructure; private interests dominate
the Spanish. Comayagua is destroyed. government.
1539 Lempira is assassinated and the Spanish hold 1932 Tiburio Carías Andino elected president, rules
on Honduras is assured. Gold and silver are discov- as virtual dictator until 1948, but does balance
ered in the country’s interior and mining begins. The economy.
encomienda labour system is put in place, assuring 1954 Banana Strike: 35,000 United and Standard
social stratification. Fruit workers stop work; as a result, labour
1573 Comayagua, rebuilt, is designated the capital. unions are legitimized and labour protection laws
1800 With mines failing and droughts destroying drafted.
agricultural harvests, the economy enters a crisis 1956 A coup in October introduces the military as
period. Society is deeply divided, and the country a new element in the country’s hierarchy of power.
still has no national printing press, newspapers or Civilian government is reinstated in 1957, but a new
university. constitution that year gives the military the right to
1821 Honduras gains independence from Spain, disregard presidential orders.
but is annexed by Mexico. 1963 Another coup brings Colonel Oswaldo López
1823 Provinces of Central America declare Arellano to power as provisional president; he
themselves an independent republic. Civil war begins. remains in power for twelve years.
326
1969 So-called “Football War” breaks out on the International (TGU), outside Teguci-
Honduras–El Salvador border (see box opposite). galpa (allegedly one of the most
1975 The “Bananagate” scandal (the payment of dangerous airports in the world, for
over $1 million to government officials by United
its difficult runway); Ramón Villeda
Brand in return for reductions on export taxes)
forces López to resign in April. Under his successors
Morales International (SAP),
– all high-ranking military officials – the country southeast of San Pedro Sula; and Juan
Manuel Gálvez International (RTB),

honduras
becomes even more stratified.
1981 Honduras becomes focus for US-backed on Roatán. All three are served by direct
Contra war in Nicaragua; relationship between flights from other Central American
military and government grows closer; human- capitals, as well as North American
rights violations rise. (namely Miami, Houston and Atlanta)
1989–1998 Following US withdrawal, economy and South American destinations. Iberia

Basics
collapses completely, but power is slowly wrested
also offers a direct flight from Madrid to
back from the military.
1998 Hurricane Mitch hits Honduras, killing over
San Pedro Sula.
7000. President Carlos Flores declares Honduras You can enter Honduras by land from
has been set back fifty years. Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua
2001 Ricardo Maduro of the conservative National (see box below). International services
Party ends Liberal Party rule. He works to crack such as Tica Bus (w www.ticabus.com)
down on gang-related crime and encourage do long-haul trips from other Central
tourism post-Mitch. American cities, but you can also travel
2005 Manuel Zelaya of the Liberal Party of via slower, cheaper local transport. If
Honduras is elected.
you do come by local bus, you’ll have
2006 Honduras signs the Central America Border
Control Agreement (CA-4), allowing tourists to travel
to disembark, cross the border on foot
freely between Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador and change buses on the other side. The
and Nicaragua for up to ninety days. only water routes to Honduras are from
Belize.

visas

Basics Citizens of Australia, Canada, Japan,

New Zealand, the UK, the US and most
European countries do not need visas
for stays in Honduras of up to ninety
ARRIVAL days. Tourist cards, given on entry, are
Visitors flying to Honduras have good for stays of between thirty and
their choice of airports. The three ninety days. The card is a yellow slip of
most commonly used are: Toncontín paper that needs to be returned when

land crossings and sea routes to belize

Honduras has land borders with Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua, and sea
crossings with Belize.
For Guatemala, there are three crossings. The most frequently used is at
El Florido for Copán Ruinas (see p.366); there is also a crossing at Agua Caliente
(p.356) for Esquipulas and one at Corinto–Entre Ríos (see p.376), which connects
Puerto Cortés and Puerto Barrios.
El Salvador has two crossings: El Amatillo (p.345) for eastern El Salvador, and
El Poy for western El Salvador (p.356).
There are three crossings for Nicaragua. The easiest is Las Manos (see p.343),
for Tegucigalpa; the others are at El Espino (see p.345) and Guasaule (see p.436).
For Belize, there are weekly skiffs from Puerto Cortés to both Placencia and
Dangriga (see p.375).

327
 you leave, or stamped if you extend packed and stop frequently, so can
your stay. be quite slow. In addition to the local
Honduras is part of the CA-4 border buses, on the longer intercity routes
control agreement (see p.48), which there’s usually a choice of services, with
means you can move freely within an increasing number of luxurious air-
Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador conditioned express buses (ejecutivos
and Nicaragua without completing or lujos) plus comfortable services with
honduras

entry and exit formalities at immmi- a few scheduled stops (directos). Fares
gration checkpoints. Immigration are extremely low on most routes, at
officials at the first point of entry will around US$0.80 an hour or less, though
determine the length of stay, which they can triple on some of the really
can be up to ninety days. If you wish to smart services – travelling between
Basics

stay longer in any of the four countries Tegucigalpa and La Ceiba can cost as
you’ll need to request a one-time much as US$18. The express buses (for
extension of stay from local immigra- example, Hedman Alas and El Rey)
tion authorities or travel outside need to have tickets bought in advance
the CA-4 countries and reapply for when possible; if you are getting on
admission to the region. at smaller destinations the conductor
will come through and collect the fare.
Getting around The frequency of buses slows down
The primary means of transport for considerably after lunch, so you should
budget travellers in Honduras will be try to be at your final destination by
the buses, though to reach the popular 4pm when possible, to avoid getting
Bay Islands you will need to invest in a stranded.
flight or take a boat.
By car
By bus
If your budget will stretch, renting a
Bus services in Honduras are fairly car can open up the country’s more
well organized, with frequent depar- isolated areas. Including insurance and
tures from the main transport hubs emergency assistance, rates start at
of Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula and around US$58 a day for a small car, and
La Ceiba, as well as a network of local US$90 for larger models and 4WDs. The
services. These local, or “chicken” highways connecting the main cities are
buses (refurbished old American well looked-after, but the numerous dirt
school buses) are the cheapest, and roads in the highlands can be impass-
probably the most fun, but also get able at certain times of the year, so

addresses in Honduras
As in most of the rest of Central America, Honduras’s major cities are mainly
laid out in a grid, with a park or plaza at the centre. Here calles run east–west,
and avenidas north–south. In some towns, such as Santa Rosa de Copán, street
names are followed by the designation “NO”, “NE”, “SO” or “SE” (northwest,
northeast, southwest and southeast respectively), depending on their location
around the central park. Note that smaller towns (including Copán) don’t have
street names, so addresses tend to be given in terms of landmarks. Exact
street numbers tend not to exist anywhere; a city address written in the Guide
as “C 16, Av 1–3”, for example, means the place you’re looking for is on Calle
16, between avenidas 1 and 3, while “Av 1, C 11–13” means it’s on Avenida 1,
between calles 11 and 13.

328
always seek local advice on conditions Accommodation
before starting out. Rental agencies can That Honduras is slowly waking up to
be found at the airports in San Pedro tourism is reflected in the country’s
Sula, Tegucigalpa and Roatán as well accommodation options. The larger
as in San Pedro Sula and Tegucigalpa cities – Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula
towns. – offer the widest range of places to

honduras
Taxis operate in all the main towns, stay, with something to suit all budgets.
tooting when they are available. Meters Hostels are beginning to spring up
are nonexistent, so always agree on a across the country, generally repre-
price before getting in. Expect to pay senting excellent value for money;
US$1.75–2.25 for a city ride in Teguci- Copán has two of the best budget hostels
galpa or San Pedro, while in smaller on the mainland. Of the Bay Islands,

Basics
towns the standard fare is around Utila is the cheapest and Roatán has
US$0.65. For safety, use taxis at night in a few places catering to backpackers,
the bigger towns. while Guanaja is aimed more at luxury
Hitching is very common in rural tourists. On the mainland, US$5 (1 )
areas, and generally safe. Keep an gets you a basic room; US$10 (2 )
eye out for pick-up trucks with lots and above will secure a well-furnished
of people in the back, and stick out room, with extras such as TV, a/c and
your thumb. You’re expected to offer hot water. A twelve-percent tax is
payment at the end of the ride, usually occasionally added to the bill. Usually
the same as the bus fare. Use common the only time you need to reserve in
sense and don’t hitch if alone. advance is at Semana Santa or during
a big local festival, such as the May
By air Carnival in La Ceiba.
The only formal provisions for
Internal flights in Honduras are very camping are at Omoa, Copán Ruinas
affordable. A small number of domestic and in some of the national parks.
airlines offer competitive fares, with Elsewhere, pitching a tent is very much
frequent departures between Teguci- an ad hoc affair. If you intend to camp,
galpa and San Pedro Sula, La Ceiba make sure you ask permission from the
and the Bay Islands. A one-way ticket landowner. Tempting though they may
between Tegucigalpa and San Pedro seem, the North Coast beaches are not
costs around US$45, while La Ceiba safe to be on after dark and camping
to Utila or Roatán is US$28 and La here is highly inadvisable.
Ceiba–Palacios around US$40. There’s See p.35 for an explanation of the
a departure tax of US$3 for internal accommodation price codes used in
flights and US$27 for international this Guide.
flights.
Food and drink
By boat Budget travellers can eat very well in
Honduras. The best way to start the
Boats are the most budget-friendly day is with a licuado, a sort of fruit
option when it comes to reaching the smoothie. Many places mix them with
Bay Islands. The MV Galaxy 11 runs bananas and cornflakes, so they’re very
between La Ceiba and Roatán (1hr; filling. Most towns have markets where
US$16), while the Utila Princess runs you can also pick up a huge amount
to Utila (1hr; US$22). There are no of fresh produce. With an eye on your
scheduled services between the islands budget, you’ll find that eating a big
– you have to go via La Ceiba. lunch is a better option than waiting for
329
 dinner. Market areas tend to be where is the Latin American rotgut, aguar-
you will find the cheapest comedores, diente. Adventurous connoisseurs of
where typical almuerzos of rice, beans, alcohol might wish to try guifiti, an
tortillas and meat can be had for around elixir of various plants soaked in rum,
L50. The larger cities have a decently found in the Garífuna villages of the
wide range of restaurants, including an north coast.
increasing number of fast-food chains.
honduras

On the whole, you’ll pay L100 for a culture and

decent-sized lunch at a restaurant. The etiquette
ever-popular Chinese eateries routinely
have portions big enough for two. Most Catholicism is the main religion in
shops and facilities close from noon to Honduras, and with it comes tradi-
Basics

2pm so that families can enjoy lunch tional values and roles. Family is very
together important, and children tend to grow up
Honduran dishes to try include and settle close to their parents. (Increas-
anafre, a fondue-like dish of cheese, ingly, however, Honduran youngsters
beans or meat, or a mixture of all three, are going to the US in order to send
sometimes served as a bar snack, and back some money.) Anti-homosexual
tapado, a rich vegetable stew, often attitudes are prevalent, and while not
with meat or fish added. The north illegal, public displays of affection are
coast has a strong Caribbean influence frowned upon.
with lots of seafood. Guisado (spicy Hondurans are very friendly, and, on
chicken stew) and sopa de caracol the whole, are glad to have visitors in
(conch stew with coconut milk, spices, their country and keen to tell you about
potatoes and vegetables) should both where they come from. Greeting shop
be sampled at least once. Probably assistants is polite, and in smaller towns
the most common street snack, sold a simple “buenos días” can win you
all over the country, is the baleada, a new friends in no time. Of Honduras’s
white-flour tortilla filled with beans, population, 85–90 percent are ladino (a
cheese and cream; two or three of mix of Spanish and indigenous people).
these constitute a reasonable meal. The rest of the country is a mixture of
Turtle eggs are widely sold on the ethnic minorities. Prominent groups
coasts, but should obviously be include the Maya Chorti in the depart-
avoided. ment of Copán; the Lenca, with their
traditional clothing, found along the
Ruta Lenca in the area around Santa
Drink
Rosa de Copán; and the Miskitos in La
Licuados or batidos are a mix of fruit Mosquitia, many of who work as guides
juice and milk. Tap water is unsafe to for the ever-increasing numbers of
drink; bottled, purified water is sold tourists.
everywhere and many hotels have water A ten percent tip is the norm for
machines. The usual brands of fizzy waiters and tour guides, but is not
drink are ubiquitous; the city of Copán expected in taxis.
also has its own Copán Dry, which
comes in a few flavours.
HONDURAN
In terms or alcohol, Honduras
expressions
produces five brands of beer: Salvavida
and Imperial are heavier lagers, Port and phrases
Royal slightly lighter and Nacional and bola a dollar
Polar very light and quite tasteless. Rum jalón a pick-up
(ron) is also distilled in the country, as
330
sports and outdoor Opening hours are usually Monday to
activities Friday 8am to noon and 2pm to 5pm,
Saturday 8am to 1pm.
The largest spectator sport in Honduras International phone calls can be made
is football, and the Honduran national from Hondutel offices (there’s a branch
league (W www.lina.hn) and the major in every town), but are very expensive
European leagues are all keenly followed.

honduras
to Europe (around 44L/min) – you
Olimpia and Motagua from Teguci-
are much better off visiting an internet
galpa, Marathón and Real España from
café with web-phone capabilities. Most
San Pedro Sula and Victoria from La
Hondutel offices sell “Telecards”, which
Ceiba are the biggest teams and usually
have access codes on the back, and can
pull in a fairly decent crowd. David
also be used at any payphone. Local

Basics
Suazo, currently playing for Inter Milan,
calls are very cheap, and can be made at
is one of the nation’s favourite sons and
you can’t go very far without spotting payphones; regular local phone numbers
him on a billboard or in a newspaper have seven digits. If you are staying in
headline. Tickets never need to be Honduras for an extended period it is
bought in advance, as most games don’t worth visiting an office of mobile phone
come anywhere near to being sold out. provider Claro (the largest provider
With a number of national parks in Latin America) to see if your phone
– most of which have accommodation will accept a foreign SIM card; if your
and/or camping and well-marked trails phone won’t take one of their cards, new
– Honduras is a fantastic place to hike. mobiles start at around L500.
Parque Nacional Celaque, with the Internet cafés can be found in most
highest peak in the country, is a great towns, and some hotels have internet
place to start. For water lovers, the Bay available for guests; the average price is
Islands offer some of the cheapest places L20 per hour.
in the world to take PADI diving certi-
fication courses; both the diving and the crime and safety
snorkelling are excellent. For the more On the whole, Honduras is a safe place
sedentary, Lago de Yojoa (see p.349) has for tourists. Government crackdowns on
fishing and birdwatching trips. “mara” (gang) culture have drastically
reduced the amount of gang-related
Communications crime in recent years, and the instal-
There are post offices in every town; lation of tourist police in towns like
letters generally take a week to the Tela has had a positive effect on crimes
US and up to two weeks to Europe. against tourists.

HONDURAS ON THE NET

W www.honduras.com The country’s official website – unsurprisingly, one of the
best general websites on Honduras.
W www.hondurastips.honduras.com The definitive guide to the country, also
published as an irreplaceable monthly magazine (available free in hotels) detailing
all the sights and latest developments of interest to tourists.
W www.letsgohonduras.com The website of the Instituto de Turismo offers a good
introduction to the main attractions and numerous organized tour packages.
W www.marrder.com/htw The website of Honduras This Week, the country’s only
English-language newspaper.
W www.travel-to-honduras.com General site covering a range of subjects
– everything from business and tourism to Spanish schools and volunteer work.
331
 Travel in rural areas is generally an
exercise in mutual trust and respect; student and youth
in urban areas, however, street crime discounts
is a concern. Take the usual precau- ISIC cards qualify students for
tions, and try to avoid walking around discounts at a handful of hotels and
at night. The Comayagüela district in restaurants across Honduras. Check
Tegucigalpa, particularly around the
honduras

wwww.isic.org for more information.

market, and the streets south of the
old railway line in San Pedro Sula are money and banks
both considered highly dangerous
after dark. Along the North Coast it’s Honduras’s currency is the lempira (L),
not advisable to walk alone on the which consists of 100 centavos; at the
Basics

beach at night. The regular police, time of writing, the exchange rate was
though separate from the armed 18.85L to US$1. Coins come as 1, 2, 5,
forces, are unlikely to be of much help 10, 20 and 50 centavos and notes as 1,
if something does happen, but any 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 lempiras.
incidents of theft should be reported In heavily touristed areas – Copán, the
for insurance purposes (see box below Bay Islands – US dollars are widely
for contact numbers). accepted, but on the whole lempiras are
the standard currency.
MEDICAL CARE AND You will need cash for day-to-day
expenses. Acceptance of foreign debit
EMERGENCIES cards in ATMs can be a hit-and-miss
The Honduras Medical Centre, Av Juan affair. Make sure before you leave home
Lindo in Tegucigalpa, is considered one that your PIN is four digits or less; your
of the best hospitals in the country; in card will be rejected if it is longer. As a
San Pedro Sula head for the Hospital rule Visa is more widely accepted than
Centro Médico Betesda, Av 11a NO other cards. Visa cardholders can also
between C 11a & 12a NO. Facilities get cash advances in several banks,
in rural areas tend to be much more including Banco Atlántida; MasterCard
limited, though most towns have at least is sometimes accepted but not to be
one pharmacy, and staff tend to be very relied upon.
helpful. In general, it’s worth trying to Honduras has a number of national
learn a little emergency Spanish, as banks, of which the biggest are Banco
English is not widely spoken. Pharma- Atlántida, Banco de Occidente and
cists can issue prescriptions. BAC/Credomatic. Most banks change
Honduras has one of the highest traveller’s cheques – American Express
rates of AIDS in Central America, so is the most widely accepted brand.
it is especially important to take all When cashing traveller’s cheques you
the usual precautions when it comes will often be asked to show proof of
to sex. Make sure, too, if you seek purchase receipts and your passport.
medical help that all instruments are Banks in larger towns are generally
sterilized. open 8.30am–4.30pm and until noon
on Saturdays, while those in smaller
towns shut for an hour at lunch.
emergency numbers
T 195 Cruz Roja (Red Cross) Information and maps
T 197 International operator The national tourist office, the Instituto
T 198 Fire Hondureño de Turismo (w www
T 199 Police (T*199 from a mobile) .letsgohonduras.com) is fairly helpful.
The main office, in the Edificio Europa
332
in Tegucigalpa (see p.338), can provide
general information about where to go Public holidays
and what to see in the country. They Jan 1 New Year’s Day
also have booths at the Tegucigalpa March/April Semana Santa:
and San Pedro Sula airports, and a free Thursday, Friday and Saturday
information service in the US (T 800/ before Easter Sunday
410-9608). Most towns you’ll visit will

honduras
April 14 Day of the Americas
have a municipality-run tourist office. May 1 Labour Day
These vary in helpfulness; the better Sept 15 Independence Day
ones sell maps, can arrange homestays Oct 3 Birth of Francisco Morazán
and can tell you the cheapest places to Oct 12 Discovery of America
stay. National parks and reserves are Oct 21 Armed Forces Day

Basics
overseen by the government forestry Dec 25 Christmas Day
agency, COHDEFOR (W www.cohdefor
.hn). If you intend to spend much time
in any of the parks, it’s worth visiting one 2pm to 4.30 or 5pm, and Saturday
of their offices for detailed information from 9am to noon. Museums often
on flora and fauna. stay open at lunch, but close for at
Honduras Tips, a free magazine found least one day each week – this varies
in the better hotels and tourist offices, depending on the museum. On public
has the most up-to-date informa- holidays, almost everything closes.
tion on hotel listings and bus routes
– it is updated every few months. The festivals
magazine also has maps of most towns
in the country. Honduras’s calendar is full of festivals,
The best map of Honduras is published everything from small local events to
by a German company, Reise Know-How major national parties. The following
(W www.reise-know-how.de), and can are just a few highlights.
February Pilgrims flock to Tegucigalpa to worship
be purchased online or in any reputable and celebrate the Virgen de Suyapa.
booksellers; unfortunately, the chance of April Punta Gorda celebrates the arrival of the
finding it in Honduras is unlikely. Garífuna (April 6–12).
May La Feria de San Isidro or Carnaval in La Ceiba,
Opening hours and during the week leading up to the third Saturday.
Festivities culminate in a street parade through the
public holidays city centre, followed by live music until the early
Business hours for shops are generally morning.
Monday to Friday 9am to noon and June San Pedro Sula holiday (June 29).

333
 Tegucigalpa What to see and do

and around The heart of Tegucigalpa’s old city is the

pleasant Plaza Morazán; a number of
interesting churches and museums, plus
Situated 1000m above sea level, deep in many hotels, lie within easy walking
honduras

a mountain valley, the Honduran capital distance of the square. East from the
of TEGUCIGALPA is not, at least on centre, two major roads, Avenida
first impression, the most welcoming Jeréz (which becomes Avenida Juan
city. The winding, narrow streets are Gutemberg and then Avenida La Paz) and
thick with motorized traffic, and the Avenida Miguel Cervantes (changing its
name to Avenida República de Chile),
Tegucigalpa and around

sidewalks full to the gills with shoppers

and loafers. This said, unlike other skirt the edges of Colonia Palmira,
capital cities in the region, Tegucigalpa an upmarket district that is home to
isn’t totally without charms, and its most of the capital’s foreign embassies,
colonial feel and cool climate actually luxury hotels, restaurants and wealthy
make it an ideal starting point to allow residences. The US embassy lies along
you to get to grips with the Honduran Avenida Juan Gutemberg about thirty
pace of life. minutes’ walk from Plaza Morazán.
Tegucigalpa’s first mention in Another landmark, the modern Hotel
records is in the 1560s, when silver Honduras Maya, is on the Avenida
deposits (“tegucigalpa” means “silver República de Chile, just south of Colonia
mountain” in the Nahuatl language) Palmira, fifteen minutes’ walk east
were found in the hills to the east. It from the centre. A kilometre beyond
was given town status in 1768, and the Hotel, an overpass gives access to
eastward-bound Boulevard Morazán,
named a city in 1807. With wealth
Tegucigalpa’s major commercial and
from the country’s mines pouring in,
entertainment artery. For some reason
the city’s location at the centre of key
no city buses run along here, so you’ll
trade routes became highly advanta-
have to walk or take a taxi.
geous, and Tegucigalpa soon rivalled
Running west from Plaza Morazán, the
the then capital, Comayagua. In 1880,
pedestrian-only Calle Peatonal is lined
the Liberal President Soto officially with shops, cafés and the fabulous new
shifted power to Tegucigalpa, and in Museo para la Identidad Nacional (see
1932 Comayagüela became a part of p.338). Further west of the old centre,
the capital. Since then, the nation’s the character of the city rapidly becomes
economic focus has shifted to San more menacing as you approach the
Pedro Sula, but Tegucigalpa continues banks of the Río Choluteca. Cross one
to function as the nation’s political and of the bridges and you’re in Comay-
governmental centre. agüela, always a poor barrio but now
Surrounded by reminders of its past distinctly threatening after dark. Save
– crumbling colonial buildings and for the market, the only reason to pass
decaying nineteenth-century mansions through is to change buses.
– the city today is a vibrant, noisy place.
A handful of churches and a fantastic Plaza Morazán
new museum, as well as some smaller Plaza Morazán is at the centre of life
quirkier ones, will easily keep you for most people who live and work
entertained for a day or two. Given a in the capital. Shaded by a canopy of
little time, you’ll see Tegucigalpa has a trees, and populated with shoe-shiners
lot to offer. and other vendors, it’s an atmospheric,
334
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– definitely good for some people- 1830. On the east edge of the plaza,
watching. A statue at the centre of the the recently refurbished facade of the
square commemorates national hero Catedral San Miguel, completed in
Francisco Morazán, a soldier, Liberal 1782, is one of the best preserved in
and reformer who was elected president Central America. Inside, look out for
335
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the magnificent Baroque-style gilded 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm; L50; t 238

altar and the baptismal font, carved 7412/7395) focuses on the history of
in 1643 by indigenous artisans from a Honduras. Starting with the geograph-
single block of stone. ical formation of Central America, the
displays move chronologically through
Museo para la Identidad the Maya civilization and colonial era
Nacional to the various post-colonial presidents
The permanent exhibition at the and their influence on the country. The
excellent new Museo para la Identidad museum’s highlight is a 3D tour (Tues–
336 Nacional, on Calle Peatonal (Tues–Sat Sat 10am, 11.30am, 2pm & 3.30pm,
Sun 11.30am & noon) of Copán that featuring a crowing cock and the rising
recreates how the Maya kingdom would sun; inside, the elaborate gold altar dates
have looked at the height of its power. from 1742. The plaza itself is crowded
Though all signage is in Spanish, there with cheap, shabby stalls.
are English-speaking guides.
Museo Nacional de Historia

honduras
Iglesia San Francisco de la República
Three blocks east of the museum, on Two blocks west of Iglesia Los Dolores, a
Avenida Paz Barahona, the Iglesia right turn onto Calle Morelos takes you
San Francisco is the oldest church in on a fairly steep fifteen-minute walk to
the city, first built by the Franciscans the Villa Roy, formerly a presidential
in 1592, although much of the present mansion and now home to the Museo

Tegucigalpa and around

building dates from 1740. No longer a Nacional de Historia de la República
functioning church, these days it houses (Mon–Sat, 8am–4pm; L20). The small
a museum dedicated to the Honduran but comprehensive exhibition within
armed forces (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; covers the political, economic and social
free). It’s worth stepping into for a while development of the republic, alongside
if you’re a fan of all things military, a display of less interesting presiden-
though the signage is all in Spanish. tial artefacts. Outside in the car park
you can see five presidential limousines
Galería Nacional de Arte from various administrations: each one
Just south of the Parque Morazán and is progressively more luxurious. A block
next to the Iglesia La Merced on Calle west off Calle la Concordia is a welcome
Bolívar, the Galería Nacional de Arte patch of green, the Parque La Concordia,
(Mon–Sat 9am–4pm & Sun 9am–1pm; dotted with replicas of Maya sculptures.
L25) is home to an extensive and inter-
esting collection of Central American Cerro El Picacho
art. Displays on the ground floor range To the north of Plaza Morazán,
from prehistoric petroglyphs and Maya older suburbs – previously home to
stone carvings to religious art, while the wealthy middle classes and rich
rooms upstairs house an ambitious immigrants, now long gone – edge up
selection of modern and contemporary the lower slopes of Cerro El Picacho.
Honduran art, including some works by At the top, in the Parque Naciones
Pablo Zelaya Sierra, one of the country’s Unidas El Picacho, stands the open-
leading twentieth-century artists. armed Cristo del Picacho, illuminated
Originally serving as a convent during at night in a dazzle of coloured lights.
the seventeenth century, and later as Grab a picnic and escape to the park for
the national university, the building’s fantastic views over the city. Take the
Neoclassical facade sits rather uncom- El Hatillo bus from the corner of Calle
fortably alongside the stained concrete Finlay and Calle Cristobal; it’s a twenty-
hulk of the Congreso Nacional, the minute ride or L100 taxi fare.
country’s seat of government next door.
Comayagüela
Iglesia Los Dolores The brown waters of the polluted Río
A couple of blocks northwest from the Choluteca form the border of Teguci-
central plaza, the pleasant, white, domed galpa’s twin, Comayagüela, which
Iglesia Los Dolores, completed in 1732, sprawls away through down-at-heel
sits next to the small Plaza Los Dolores. business districts into industrial areas
Its Baroque facade is decorated with a and poor barrios. There’s little to see
representation of the Passion of Christ, and the streets, invariably choked with
337
 traffic, have a much less relaxed feel than painted on the front and fares are L5 anywhere
those of Tegucigalpa proper. The stalls within the city. Pay your fare on the bus. Unfortu-
of San Isidro, the city’s main market, nately, no buses pass close to Plaza Morazán or
indeed Boulevard Morazán, but any bus signed
jostle for space along the narrow alleys
“San Miguel” runs past the US Embassy.
and pavements, sometimes spilling over Taxis Taxis are usually white with numbers painted
into the streets themselves, and buses on the side. A short ride within the city costs about
honduras

crawl through the crowds, often only L50 during the day, a little more at night. Colectivo
inches from the vendors. The atmos- taxis gather at predetermined stops (puntos);
phere is hot and frenetic, and often the most central one is on C Palace just north of
pungent with the scent of raw meat. Plaza Morazán. They generally leave when full
Most stalls sell workaday produce, so with passengers going to a similar area of the city.
Though you may have to wait around a bit, they are
there’s not much to draw you here, but
Tegucigalpa and around

cheaper than standard taxis, costing around L10

it is certainly a spectacle. Mind your per person.
possessions while walking around. For
the market, cross at the Puente Carías
Accommodation
bridge from Calle Morelos. An undeni-
ably rough edge permeates the place As the national capital, Tegucigalpa’s accom-
at night, and even the inhabitants of modation is pricier than other areas of Honduras.
Tegucigalpa prefer not to venture out Although budget accommodation is available in
here after dark. Comayagüela, solo travellers are best off staying
elsewhere, while others should stay in the area
only as a last resort. If your budget will stretch, it is
Arrival and information worth spending a little more for the extra comfort
and safety.
By air Toncontín International Airport is 7km south
Hotel Boston Av Máximo Jeréz 321, between C El
of the city. Taxis wait outside the terminal, but
Telégrafo and C Morelos T237 9411, F237 0186.
hailing one 50m down the highway will save you a
Spotlessly clean en-suite rooms in a good location
couple of dollars. Bus #24 also passes the airport,
near Iglesia Los Dolores. The elegant communal
running through Comayagüela and Tegucigalpa.
TV area and inexhaustible supplies of hot water
By bus There is no main bus station, with the
and free coffee make it a good deal. The large,
result that each international or intercity bus line
old rooms at the front are nicer, despite the traffic
has its own terminal, most of them scattered
noise. 4
around Comayagüela. For listings, see p.341. If
Hotel Granada Av Juan Gutemberg at Av Cristóbal
travelling at night or alone it’s best to take a taxi to
Colón T237 2381, Ehotelgranadategus@yahoo
your drop off point.
.com. Consistently popular budget option with basic
Tourist information The Instituto Hondureño de
but clean rooms, some with bath, plus hot water
Turismo, in the Edificio Europa at Av Ramon Cruz and a communal TV area. Better rooms have TV
and C República de México (Mon–Fri 8.30am– and en-suite bathroom. Ask for a room away from
4.30pm; T222 2124 or toll-free in Honduras the street. 4
T 800/222 8687, [email protected]), provides Hotel Granada 2 (T222 0597, F237 0841) and
maps of the country and major cities, as well as Hotel Granada 3 (T238 4438, F237 0843),
information in English on the country’s main opposite each other on Subida Casa Martín, just off
attractions. AMITIGRA, Edificio Italia at Av República Av Juan Gutemberg. Similar to and just round the
de Panamá, Col Palmira (T235 8494, eamitgra corner from the original Hotel Granada. All rooms at
@sigmanet.hn), provides access and entry these hotels, including triples and quadruples, have
information on the Parque Nacional La Tigra. private bath. Keep valuables locked away. 4 .
Travel agent Alhambra Travel (T220 1700) in the Hotel Granada 4 Facing Granada 3 tno phone.
Hotel Honduras Maya, Av República de Perú and The newest and nicest of all the Granada hotels.
C 3, is quick, friendly and efficient. All rooms have TV and private bath, and internet
is available in the entrance area (L20/hr). Rooms
City transport facing the street are a bit noisy. 5
Hotel Guadalupe 2 Av Juan Manuel Galvez 324
Buses Old US school buses run the urban routes, T 238 5009/2958. Popular with Peace Corps
usually 6am–9pm. Route names and numbers are volunteers, this hotel has 14 rooms all with
338
private hot-water baths. Communal areas have Fantasia C Peatonal, halfway between Plaza
comfy sofas. 4 Morazán and C Morelos. This bakery sells freshly
Hotel Iberia Plaza los Dolores T237 9267. Rooms made bread and a large selection of beautifully
are basic but fine if you just need somewhere to decorated cakes; filled rolls go for L19.
crash at night. They’re in a good location, and have Taco Loco Blvd Morazán. Grab a handful of tacos
nice communal areas, but no a/c and hot water is (three plus drink L82) at this simple, open-kitchen
only available 6–8am. 3 Mexican snack bar. Delivery is also available. Open

honduras
until 11pm.
Tortas Locas C Peatonal, halfway between Plaza
treat yourself

Apart Hotel Plaza Colonial Av Morazán and C Morelos. Booths line the walls
Máximo Jeréz, behind Plaza of this Mexican fast-food restaurant serving
Morazán T222 7727 or 237 up good-value lunches and breakfasts. Special
9159. Truly a haven of calm combos for two from L30. Menu of the day under

Tegucigalpa and around

away from the capital’s busy L100.
streets. With nice details like a
fountain on the ground floor and Restaurants
carved wooden bedframes, this Duncan Maya Av Cristóbal Colón, two blocks west
hotel is a great find just behind of Parque Central. Busy barn of a place, popular
the Parque. Rates include with the after-work crowd, who come for the large
Continental breakfast, and all rooms helpings of local food, burgers and snacks (all less
are en suite and have TV. Both than L100).
double rooms and apartments are El Patio Far eastern end of Blvd Morazán. Typical
available; apartments have kitchens Honduran restaurant offering traditional dishes in
with fridges and microwaves as well massive, good-value portions – try “El Conquis-
as en-suite double rooms and a tador”, a breathtakingly enormous steak. This is a
sofa bed in the lounge. Doubles 5 , great place to introduce yourself to home-cooked
apartments 7 Honduran cuisine (L200–300).
Rojo, Verde y Ajo Av 1 B, off Av República de
Panamá. A reasonably priced restaurant with an
international menu heavy on Mediterranean cuisine.
Eating The English-speaking staff is friendly and portions
The centre boasts all the usual fast-food chains are large enough for you to feel that you’ve spent
and cheap and cheerful café-style eateries, as your money wisely. Most mains are under L300.
well as a few good-value restaurants with meals Closed Sun.
under L100; nicer restaurants are to be found out La Salsa Av República de Panamá. Classy
in Colonia Palmira and along Blvd Morazán. Super- and civilized, this upmarket buffet-style
market La Colonia, just south of the Parque, has a lunchtime restaurant is a favourite with local VIPs.
wide selection of canned and packaged goods for The terrace has views of the city and the Cristo de
self-catering. Picacho monument. Amazing salads, fresh juices
(with refills) and cheesecake. Meat, rice and salad
Cafés L120. Open for lunch only.
Café Honore Av 1 B, off Av República La Terraza de Don Pepe Av Cristóbal Colón 2062.
de Panamá. Busy café where the young On two floors above a fried-chicken shop, this
and trendy come to lunch on the best choice of restaurant is nice and airy. Serving up local dishes
sandwiches in town (half-baguette L115, whole like chicken, beans and rice, the menu del 3ra
L195). Continental ham-and-cheeses are on the planta is only L70. The top floor also hosts karaoke
menu as well as for sale at the on-site deli. on Fri nights.
Café Paradiso Av Paz Barahona 1351. Great arty
place to grab a quick snack – try the fantastic Drinking and nightlife
apple cake or a croissant – or lunch (set lunch L80).
Open until 10pm, they also host film nights and live Most bars in the centre are fiercely local hangouts,
music on Fri. so you’re best off heading to Colonia Palmira and
El Comal On the corner of Av Miguel Cervantes Boulevard Morazán. Clubs and bars here go in and
and C Morelos. Small café with wooden tables and out of fashion; for the most up-to-date tips ask at
chairs selling breakfasts for L30, almuerzos for L36 the tourist office and check Honduras Tips. Use
and burritos for L23. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm. taxis when going about at night.
339
 Bars
Café Paradiso Av Paz Barahona 1351. Popular Directory
with local artists, this is a great place to kick off the
Exchange Virtually all banks will change dollars
evening (it’s only open until 10pm), with film nights
and traveller’s cheques. Banco Atlántida, on Plaza
mid-week and live music on Fri.
Morazán (with 24hr ATM) and elsewhere, gives
El Patio Blvd Morazán. Locals fill this place (not to advances on Visa cards, while Credomatic,
be confused with the restaurant of the same name) C Mendieta at Av Cervantes, gives both Visa and
honduras

for football games. Bar snacks are served with MasterCard advances.
drinks, but a full menu is also available. Live music Embassies Belize, ground floor of Hotel Honduras
is often organized. Beers L35. Maya, Av República de Perú and C 3 (Mon–Fri
Sabor Cubano Opposite Rojo, Verde y Ajo. With 9am–1pm; T238 4616); Canada, Edificio Finan-
Cuban and Caribbean beats the music of choice, ciero Banexpo 3, Col Payaqui, Blvd San Juan
this is the place to come for some Latin dancing. Bosco (Mon–Fri 9am–3pm; T232 4551); Costa
Tegucigalpa and around

Rica, Residencial El Triángulo, 1a Calle, Casa 3451

Clubs (Mon–Fri 8am–3pm; T232 1768); El Salvador,
Bambu Blvd Morazán. The place to be on a Wed Colonia Altos de Miramontes, Casa 2952, Diagonal
night, Bambu draws in tourists, students and Aguan (Mon–Fri 8.30am–noon & 1–3pm; T 232
volunteers with ridiculously cheap drinks. Open 4947); Guatemala, Colonia Lomas de Guijarro
Mon–Sat from 8pm. L120 entrance with ID; women (Mon–Fri 8.30am–3pm; T 231 1543); Mexico,
free on Wed. Colonia Lomas del Guijarro, Av Eucalipto (Mon–Fri
La Grotta In the Colonia San Carlos. This upscale 8–11am; T 232 0141); Nicaragua, C 11, Block M1,
disco is popular with the younger crowd. Full inter- Colonia Lomas del Tepeyac (Mon–Fri 8.30am–1pm;
national bar and a selection of tropical cocktails. T232 1966); Panama, Edificio Palmira 200, Colonia
Palmira (Mon–Fri 8am–1pm; T239 5508); UK,
Entertainment Centro Financiero Banexpo 3 piso, Colonia Payaqui
(Mon–Thurs 8am–noon & 1–4pm, Fri 8am–3pm;
Cinema The modern Multi Plaza complex (see T232 0612); US, Av La Paz (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm;
below) on Blvd Morazán has a cinema showing T236 9320).
subtitled Hollywood blockbusters for L60. Immigration Dirección General de Migracíon,
Sport The Estadio Nacional, at the western end on Av La Paz, near the US Embassy (Mon–Fri
of Blvd Morazán, hosts international and domestic 8.30am–4.30pm).
football games. Internet Cybercafé Colonial, on Av Máximo Jeréz
Theatre The Teatro Nacional Manuel Bonilla behind the Parque (daily until 9pm; L18/hr);
is 15min west of Parque Morazán along Calle Multinet, east end of C Peatonal (Mon–Fri 8.15am–
Peatonal; ask at the box office (T 222 4366) inside 7.45pm, Sat 8.30am–7.30pm & Sun 9am–5.45pm;
for details of current shows. L18/hr and calls L1/min to the US and L2–3 to
Europe).
Laundry Super Jet, Av Juan Gutemberg after
Shopping Parque Finlay, offers a reliable laundry service
and dry-cleaning charged by the item (Mon–Sat
Books Metromedia, on Av San Carlos after
8am–5pm).
C Republica de Mexico, has a wide range of English- Medical care Emergency departments (24hr) are
language fiction, nonfiction and travel titles, as well at Hospital Escuela, Blvd Suyapa (T 232 6234), and
as used books and US newspapers and magazines. Hospital General San Felipe, C La Paz by the Bolívar
Food and drink La Colonia supermarket, south of monument.
the Plaza on C Bolívar, carries everything you need Police Go to the FSP office on C Buenos Aires,
to make lunches, as well as toiletries and alcohol. behind Los Dolores church, with any problems.
Malls Multi Plaza, Av Juan Pablo 11, has everything Post office C Peatonal at C El Telégrafo, 3 blocks
you could need, with international shops like Diesel, west of the main plaza (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat
Paul Frank and Mango; a huge food court with the 8am–1pm). Window 1 on the ground floor deals
usual fast-food chains; and a cinema. Tigo and with the lista de correos.
Claro stores here also sell SIM cards and mobile
phones.
Moving on
Markets San Isidro in Comayagüela sprawls
around Av 6 and C 1. Go in a group and keep an eye Travellers do leave Tegucigalpa via plane (mostly
on your things. for international destinations and the Bay Islands),
340
but buses are the most common way to reach other Tica Bus (TB) Luxury services to Guatemala City
parts of the country. (Guatemala), Managua (Nicaragua), Panama City
(Panama), San José (Costa Rica) and San Salvador
By air (El Salvador) depart from C 16, Av 5–6, Barrio Villa
Flights to: La Ceiba (1 daily with Isleña); Roatán Adela. Information on T220 0579.
(via La Ceiba; 3 daily with Isleña); San Pedro Sula Viana Clase Oro (V) Luxury services to La Ceiba
(2 daily with Isleña); Utila (via La Ceiba with Atlantic and San Pedro Sula depart from Blvd Fuerzas

honduras
Airlines). All flights leave from Toncontín InterÂ� Armadas. Information on T239 8288.
national Airport, 7km south of the centre.
Domestic bus
destinations
By bus Choluteca With luxury ME (daily 6am, 10am, 2pm,
Tegucigalpa does not have a central bus terminal.
6pm); with normal ME (hourly 4am–6pm); with R
Instead, each bus company has its own office and

Tegucigalpa and around

(1–2 hourly 4am–5.45pm); 3hr 30min.
bus stop – most are in Comayagüela. It’s best to
Comayagua With N (every 30min 6am–2.30pm);
get a taxi if travelling from and to Comayagüela
with ER (2 hourly 3am–7pm); 2hr.
late at night.
Copán Ruinas Buses go via San Pedro Sula (see
p.370).
Bus companies and stops
Juticalpa With direct D (hourly 6.15am–4.15pm);
Cotraibal (C) Direct services to Trujillo depart from
with normal D (hourly 6.45am–5pm); 2hr 30min.
Av 7, C 11–12, Barrio Concepción. Information on
La Ceiba With CR (7 daily 5.45am–3.30pm); with
T 237 1666.
HA (daily 5.45am, 10am, 1.30pm); with V (daily
Cristina (CR) Direct services to La Ceiba depart
6.45am & 2.30pm); 5hr 30min–7hr.
from Av 8, C 12–13, Barrio Concepción. Information
La Guama (for Lago de Yojoa) With N or ER, as per
on T220 0117.
departures for San Pedro Sula.
Discovery (D) Normal services to Juticalpa depart
San Pedro Sula With ER (1–2 hourly 3am–7pm);
from Av 7, C 12–13. Information on T222 4256.
with HA (hourly 6.30am–5.30pm); with N (1–2 hourly
Discusa Litena (DL) Direct services to El Paraíso
6am–2.30pm); with RE (1–2 hourly 6.30am-6.30pm);
(for Nicaragua) depart from Contigo al Mercado
with V (Mon–Fri & Sun 6.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm,
Jacaleapa. Information on T 230 2939.
6.15pm, Sat 6.30am, 9.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm); 3hr
El Rey (ER) Normal services to Comayagua,
30min. Take San Pedro Sula-bound buses for Lago de
La Guama and San Pedro Sula depart from Av
Yojoa (ask for La Guama), Copán Ruinas and Tela.
Centenario opposite Casa Jaar. Information on
Santa Rosa de Copán With LS (daily 6am,
T 237 1462.
7.30am, 8.30am, 10am); 7hr.
El Rey Express (RE) Direct services to San Pedro
Siguatepeque With N or ER, as per departures for
Sula depart from Barrio Concepción. Information on
San Pedro Sula; 2hr.
T 237 8561.
Tela Buses go via San Pedro Sula (see p.370)
Hedman Alas (HA) Direct and luxury services to
Trujillo With C (daily 7.30am; 5hr 30min); 9hr.
La Ceiba and San Pedro Sula depart from Av 11,
C 13–14. Information on T 237 7143. International bus
King Quality (KQ) Luxury services to Guatemala destinations
City (Guatemala), Managua (Nicaragua) and San Guatemala City (Guatemala) With KQ (daily 6am
Salvador (El Salvador) depart from Blvd Comunidad & 1pm); with TB (daily 6am, with overnight in El
Económica Europea, La Guanaja. Information on Salvador).
T 225 5415. Managua (Nicaragua) With KQ (daily 6am & 1pm);
La Sultana (LS) Normal services to Santa Rosa de with TB (daily 9.15am; 8hr).
Copán depart from Av 8, C 11–12. Information on Panama City (Panama) With TB (daily 9.15am,
T 237 8101. with overnight in Managua and San José).
Mi Esperanza (ME) Luxury and normal services to San José (Costa Rica) With TB (daily 9.15am,
Choluteca depart from C 23–24, Barrio Villa Adela. with overnight in Managua).
Information on T225 1502. San Salvador (El Salvador) With KQ (daily 6am &
Norteños (N) Normal services to Comayagua, 1pm); with TB (daily 5.30pm; 7hr).
La Guama and San Pedro Sula depart from C 12,
Av 6–7. Information on T237 0706.
Royeri (R) Normal services to Choluteca depart
Around Tegucigalpa
from C 23–24, Barrio Villa Adela. Information on Though Tegucigalpa isn’t as bad as it
T 225 2863. might be, chances are you’ll want to
341
 escape the city pretty quickly – luckily, mining town now reincarnated as a
there are several places a short bus handicraft centre and scenic getaway
ride away where you can while away for capitalanos. Surrounded by forested
an afternoon or even a day or two. The mountains, the small town slumbers
famous Basílica de Suyapa takes only during the week, then explodes with
twenty minutes to reach, or for a really activity on the weekends. If you’re
honduras

adventurous couple of days you can looking for souvenirs, the town is chiefly
take yourself off to Valle de Ángeles noted for its quality carved wooden
for a morning before going on to the goods. Numerous small shops around
Parque Nacional La Tigra to hike amid town sell crafts, and it’s a nice place to
the flora. while away a couple of hours. For food,
El Asado opposite the municipality
Tegucigalpa and around

Basílica de Suyapa building is a quaint restaurant with a

Six or so kilometres east of Tegucigalpa’s pleasant balcony where you can get a
centre, the monolithic white bulk of the fantastic almuerzo for around L100.
Basílica de Suyapa rises from the flat Buses leave Tegucigalpa for Valle de
plains. Built in the 1950s, it is home to Ángeles from an open lot near the San
the Virgen de Suyapa, patron saint of Felipe Hospital (every 45min until 6pm;
Honduras. The statue of the Virgin was 1hr) and terminate a couple of blocks
discovered by two campesinos in 1743. from the town’s Parque Central. Walk
The story goes that after bedding down back down to the main road for return
for the night, one of them noticed he buses to Tegucigalpa; the last leaves at
was lying on something, but without 5.30pm.
looking to see what the offending object
was, threw it to one side. Within a Parque Nacional La Tigra
few minutes, however, the object had The oldest reserve in Honduras, Parque
returned. The next day, the two carried Nacional La Tigra (daily 8am–2pm;
the little statue down to Suyapa where, US$10) was given protected status in
placed on a simple table adorned with 1952 and designated a national park in
flowers, the Virgin began to attract 1980. Only 22km from Tegucigalpa, its
worshippers. accessibility and good system of trails
Today you can see the tiny statue (it’s make it a popular destination; however,
only 6cm tall) behind the wooden altar much of the original cloudforest has
in La Pequeña Iglesia, the original been destroyed through heavy logging,
eighteenth-century chapel behind the so what you see is generally secondary
Basílica. According to legend, each growth. Parts of the park still shelter oak
time she is placed in the larger Basílica, trees, bromeliads, ferns, vines, orchids
the Virgin mysteriously returns to the and other typical cloudforest flora, along
simple chapel, built by Captain José with wildlife such as deer, white-faced
de Zelaya y Midence in thanks for the monkeys and ocelots – though they
recovery of his health. City buses to tend to stick to parts of the park that are
Suyapa run regularly from the Mercado out of bounds to visitors. Though you
San Isidro in Comayagüela (20min). can visit the park as a day-trip, if you
want to see everything it’s worth staying
Valle de Ángeles a couple of nights.
Continuing east, the road rises gently The park has two entrances. The
amid magnificent scenery, winding western side is reached via the village
through forests of slender pine trees. of Jutiapa, 17km east of Tegucigalpa.
Twenty-three kilometres from the Though slightly easier to reach from the
capital is Valle de Ángeles, a former capital, this entrance has few facilities.
342
 into nicaragua: lAs manos
The Las Manos border crossing, some 120km from Tegucigalpa, is the most
convenient place to enter Nicaragua from the capital. Buses run to the town of El
Paraíso (Discusa Litena; hourly 6am–6pm; 2hr 15min), 12km from the border, from
where minibuses and pick-ups shuttle to the border every thirty minutes or so. With
an early enough start, it’s possible to reach Managua (see p.416) the same day. Taxi

honduras
drivers hawking for business may well tell you that no buses run to the border from
El Paraíso, but this is not true. However, if you don’t want to wait around for one of
the buses, a taxi will cost you about US$2.75.
The border post itself is a collection of huts housing the immigration and
customs officials. Both sides are open daily until 5pm and crossing is generally
straightforward. There are no banks, but eager moneychangers accept dollars,

Southern Honduras
lempiras and Nicaraguan córdobas. There’s a US$0.50 exit tax to leave Honduras.
On the Nicaraguan side, trucks leave every hour for Ocotal, from where you can
pick up buses to Estelí and Managua.

Take the El Hatillo bus from the corner the highlands, this region is nonethe-
of Calle Finlay and Calle Cristóbal; it’s a less beautiful of its own accord, defined
fifty-minute ride. The second entrance by a dazzling light and ferociously high
is best reached via the village of San temperatures. Traditionally a poor
Juancito, to which direct buses run from region, it’s also a little-visited one, with
Mercado San Pablo, Barrio El Manchen the foreigners who do pass through
(3 daily; 2hr) or from Valle de Ángeles usually in transit to Nicaragua or El
(daily 7am, 11am, 3pm; pick-ups are also Salvador. If you’re really looking to get
available). From San Juancito it is a steep off the gringo trail, this is the place to
5km hike up the mountain to the visitors’ do it.
centre; pick-ups are sometimes available The chief attraction in the area – and
to make the trip for around L250. The well worth a visit – is Isla El Tigre, a
visitors’ centre has accommodation for volcanic island set in the calm waters of
US$15 and the friendly warden is usually the Golfo de Fonseca, while the colonial
around to answer questions and provide city of Choluteca offers a change of pace
trail maps. Guides (US$8.50 per day) are from the frenzy of the capital and makes
also available, though they only speak a convenient stopover on the route to
Spanish. The trails are well laid-out, and Nicaragua.
provide some easy hiking, either on a The main transport junction in this
circular route from the visitors’ centre part of the country is the village of Jícaro
or across the park between the two Galán, at the intersection of Highway
entrances. CA-5 and the Carretera Interamericana,
some 70km south of Tegucigalpa. Buses
stop here to exchange passengers before
continuing west to the border with El
Salvador at El Amatillo, 42km away (see
Southern box, p.345), or east to Nicaragua.

Honduras Isla El Tigre

Boats depart the fishing village of
Stark, sun-baked coastal plains stretch Coyolito, on the coast of the Golfo de
south from Tegucigalpa all the way to Fonseca, southwest of Jícaro Galán, for
the Pacific Ocean. Though a world away the volcanic ISLA EL TIGRE, whose
from the clean air and gentle climate of conical peak rises sharply against the
343
 sky across the sparkling water. With By bus Juanche buses from Tegucigalpa’s Mercado
good beaches, calm waters and constant Zonal Belen run directly to Coyolito, but departures
sunshine, the island is an ideal spot to are infrequent. Mi Esperanza runs a more reliable
service to Choluteca, dropping you off at Jícaro
hide away for a couple of days.
Galán on the Carretera Interamericana, marked by
a Dippsa fuel station. From here local buses wait on
What to see and do the highway to take the slow but beautiful road to
honduras

Coyolito; the last stop is a few steps away from the

The island’s only town is Amapala, once dock.
the country’s major Pacific port and Exchange There’s no ATM on the island, but the
now a decaying relic of the nineteenth Depósito, a large warehouse building on the road
century. Looking up from the dock, facing the pier, can change cash dollars.
ageing wooden houses cluster along Internet Available in a small building on the south
Southern Honduras

side of the Parque Central (8am–noon & 2–5pm;

the hillside, while the newly restored
L20/hr); it’s dial-up and can be very slow.
church in the Parque Central shows Tourist information The helpful staff at the new
signs of the island’s desire to get on the tourist office on the pier (Mon–Fri 8am–noon,
tourist map. Nontheless, during the 2–5pm, Sat 8am–noon) offer maps and information,
week there’s every chance you’ll be the and can also organize homestays.
only visitors on the island.
An 18-kilometre road runs all the way Accommodation
around the island, giving access to some
glorious deserted beaches; it takes four There is not a great deal of budget accommodation
or more hours to walk the whole thing, on the island. Your best bet is to contact the tourist
office or Asociación de Casas Huéspedes (T 372
or you can take one of the moto taxis
7137 or 895 8639) to arrange a homestay – homes
that hang around the end of the dock all over the island offer rooms starting from L150 a
in Amapala (around L300 for a one-way night. Staying with a local family is a great way to
trip around the island). A 45min walk experience real island life.
east from the Parque Central takes you Mirador de Amapala East towards Playa del Burro,
to Playa del Burro, where you can while 5min from the Parque Central T795 8407/8592,
away the afternoon people-watching Wwww.miradordeamapala.com. Clean en-suite
– children and taxi drivers play football rooms, a pool, restaurant, disco and well-equipped
on the beach before cooling off in the bar make a good option, particularly if you’re in a
group (there’s a six-bed dorm available for L1600). A
sea. Playa Negra, ten minutes west
planned new extension should include a sun-bathing
of the plaza, is a pretty volcanic sand platform and ten more rooms, some of which will
beach, while the popular Playa Grande have beautiful views of the Golfo de Fonseca. 6
is backed by rows of comedores serving Playa Negra T220 1183, ehotelplayanegra
freshly barbecued fish at the weekend. @hotmail.com. Set above Playa Negra, this is the
From the southern side of the island biggest hotel on the island, with a pool, restaurant
there are stunning views across the gulf and comfortable rooms, all with private bath. The
to Volcán Cosiguina in Nicaragua, and nightly rates are steep for the slightly worn appear-
ance of the hotel and its grounds. 7
in some places to Isla Meanguera and
mainland El Salvador. The island’s peak
can be climbed in a steep and very hot Eating
two- to three-hour walk; ask for direc- Dignita At the end of Playa Grande. This fish restau-
tions to the start of the trail, about fifteen rant serves up seafood soup for L150, fried fish
minutes’ walk southwest of Amapala. meals starting at L80 and freshly caught langostines
for L230. During the week you can pretty much have
Arrival and information the restaurant (and beach) to yourself.
Iris Facing the end of the pier, this two-storey house
By boat From Coyolito regular launches (1am– is both a café and a shop. It doesn’t have a name,
6pm; 15min) run to Amapala’s dock, a small jetty but Iris is in charge, and one of her sons is likely
with a new tourist office. to be dishing out licuados, sandwiches (with chips
344
L40), burgers, enchiladas and tacos. It has a beach the southwest corner of the square is the
shack feel, with a room with wicker rocking chairs. birthplace of José Cecilio del Valle, one
You can buy basic toiletries, snacks and drinks in an of the authors of the Central American
attached, make-shift shop (daily 6am–10pm).
Act of Independence in 1821 and
Veleros Playa del Burro. Palapa-roofed beach café.
A great place to watch the locals coming and going
1834 president-elect of the Federation,
on the launches. Sandwich and chips L35, seafood though he died in Guatemala before

honduras
soup L160. taking office. There are plans to turn
this building into a municipal museum,
Moving on though it has been closed to the public
for some time. It is Valle’s statue that
By boat Launches (2am–6pm; 15min) leave stands in the middle of the square. Once
regularly for Coyolito from Amapala’s dock. you’ve seen the centre, there’s not much

Southern Honduras
By bus From the Coyolito dock buses leave every reason to hang out in the heat, and most
15min to the Jícaro Galán/Coyolito turn-off (1hr) for people move on fairly quickly.
connections to Tegucigalpa or Choluteca.

Choluteca Arrival and information

Honduras’s fourth-largest city, with By bus The main terminal is ten blocks northeast
a population of around one hundred of the Parque Central, a twenty-minute walk or L10
thousand, CHOLUTECA’s main attrac- taxi ride. Mi Esperanza also has a stop down the
street from the main terminal.
tion is its old colonial centre, one of the
Exchange Banco Occidente, one block south of the
finest in the country. Most places of Parque (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 8am–noon), has
interest are grouped around the Parque a 24hr ATM.
Central, itself a pleasant place to enjoy
the evening air. Dominating the square,
Accommodation
the imposing seventeenth-century
cathedral is worth a look for its elabo- Bonsai Av Valle T782 2648. The most basic
rately constructed wooden ceiling. On rooms here are little more than a bed with fan and

Into nicaragua or El Salvador: El Espino,

Guasaule and El Amatillo
Choluteca is a transport hub for most of the country’s border crossings with
Nicaragua and El Salvador.
For Nicaragua’s El Espino border, buses run the 110km from Choluteca to
San Marcos de Colón with El Rey Express (3 daily; 9am, 3pm & 7pm). From there
frequent colectivo taxis (US$0.75) go to El Espino and the border 10km away. The
border post itself (daily 8am–5pm) is quiet and straightforward, with moneychangers
on both sides. On the Nicaraguan side, regular buses run to Somoto, 20km from the
border. If you are crossing at Guasaule, white rapiditos leave every half hour from
6am until 5pm (40min) from Choluteca. There’s regular transport from Guasaule on
to Chinandega, León and Managua.
If you are heading for El Salvador, local buses run to El Amatillo (hourly 3.15am–
5.45pm; 2hr 15min). This point of entry (open 6am–10pm) teems with border traffic,
moneychangers and opportunistic beggars. Crossing, however, is straightforward.
A bank on the El Salvadoran side changes dollars and lempiras, but you’ll get
slightly better rates from the moneychangers as long as you’re careful. If coming
from Tegucigalpa you don’t need to go all the way to Choluteca – just change at
Jícaro Galán onto the Choluteca–El Amatillo service. Over the border in El Salvador,
buses leave for Santa Rosa de Lima – 18km away, and the closest place offering
accommodation (see p.297) – and San Miguel (58km; see p.289) every ten minutes
until around 6.30pm.
345
 shared bathroom, but there are also a/c rooms with lake, the vast blue Lago de Yojoa – a
private bath. 3 bird-lover’s paradise.
Santa Rosa On Av La Rosa between C Williams
and C Paz Barahona T782 0355/0884. A good bet,
with clean and simple rooms all with private bath
Comayagua
and fan, and some with a/c and TV. Hammocks and Once the capital of Honduras, faded
wicker chairs surround the courtyard and a laundry COMAYAGUA lies just 85km north
honduras

service is available. There’s a four-bed dorm room of Tegucigalpa, at the northeast end
available for L3300. Doubles 2 –4 of the fertile Comayagua Valley. Santa
María de Comayagua, as it was first
Eating known, was built in 1539, and quickly
gained prominence thanks to the
Local comedores opposite the market have
discovery of silver nearby, becoming
The central highlands

almuerzos for L40.

American Express Av 6 NO near C Williams. the administrative centre for the whole
Serves great coffees and granitas, especially good of Honduras. Following independence,
if the heat gets to be too much. however, the city’s fortunes began to
Café Frosty C Williams near Av 6 NO. A diner-style decline, particularly after Tegucigalpa
eatery with dishes like burgers and chips (L59). was designated alternate capital of the
new republic in 1824, and especially
Moving on when President Soto permanently
transferred the capital to Tegucigalpa in
By bus to: Tegucigalpa (4 daily with Mi Esperanza,
1880. Although Comayagua is today a
3hr; 12 daily with Royeri, 4hr). For buses to
Nicaragua and El Salvador see box, p.345. relatively rich and important provincial
centre, its rivalry with Tegucigalpa has
hardly waned over the centuries. The
main reason to visit is the architectural
legacy of the colonial period, in partic-
The central ular the dramatic cathedral overlooking

highlands
the Parque Central.

What to see and do

The only glimpse of Honduras’s central
highlands that most travellers see is Most sights of interest are within a few
the view from the bus window as they blocks of the large, tree-lined Parque
rush to see the ruins at Copán, or the Central, C 4–5 NO, Cero Av Norte–1
border with Guatemala or onwards to Av NO, which is graced by a pretty
the northern beaches. This would be a bandstand, a fountain and a handful of
mistake, though, as the highlands have gun-wielding guards who protect the
a little something for everyone. For surrounding banks. It’s a great place to
adventure-seekers, especially, there’s watch city life, especially in the evenings,
plenty to see and do – the region is when music plays out of speakers. Few
one long expanse of rugged, pine-clad of the city streets are numbered, but the
mountain ranges and fertile valleys centre is relatively compact and orienta-
peppered with natural hot springs, tion straightforward.
waterfalls and caves.
Moving north from Tegucigalpa on the Iglesia de la Inmaculada
Carretera del Norte (CA-5) highway, Concepción
the first place of interest is the nation’s On the southeast corner of the Parque is
former capital Comayagua, with its the recently renovated cathedral (daily
remnants of colonial architecture. 7am–8pm), whose intricate facade
Further along lies Honduras’s biggest consists of tiers of niches containing
346
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statues of the saints. More properly known Museo Colonial

as Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, The small Museo Colonial (Tues–Sun
it was the largest church of its kind in 9am–noon & 2–4.45pm; L35), a block
the country during the colonial period, southeast of the Parque and housed in
housing sixteen altars, though only four a few rooms of the Palacio Episcopal,
of these survive today. The cathedral’s is home to a collection of religious
bell tower, built between 1580 and 1708, art, statues, chalices and documents
is considered one of the outstanding – including the former president
examples of colonial Baroque architec- Francisco Morazán’s marriage licence
ture in Central America, and is home – from the city’s churches. It also has
to the twelfth-century Reloj Arabe, one some striking indigenous headdresses.
of the oldest clocks in the world. Origi- The building was originally constructed
nally made for the Alhambra in Granada, for Comayagua’s university, the first
Spain, the timepiece was presented to the established in Central America, in
city in 1582 by King Philip II. 1678.
347
 Museo Arqueológico 2–4pm, Sat & Sun 8am–noon) sells maps and has
Two blocks north of the Parque Central, a helpful staff.
on Plaza San Francisco, the Museo
Arqueológico (daily 8.30am–4pm; L20) Accommodation
occupies a single-storey building that
America Inc Av 1 NO after C 1 NO T772 0530,
used to be the government palace. The
[email protected]. Big hotel with
small but interesting range of permanent
honduras

clean rooms; some twins come with a fridge and a

exhibits includes a pre-Columbian sink for putting together lunches from the nearby
Lenca stele, some polychrome ceramics market. Laundry service and internet (L30/hr) are
and some terrific jade jewellery. A available, and there’s an on-site restaurant and a
second room houses changing exhibi- small pool. 5
tions on a range of topics. Hotel Quan Just off C 7 NO towards the highway
The central highlands

T772 0070, [email protected]. You have your

choice of either modern motel-style accommoda-
Casa de Cultura
tion or less pleasant budget rooms here – all have
The Casa de Cultura, C 4 NO, on the private bath, and the ones on the first floor have
south side of the Parque (Mon–Thurs a/c. Rooms in the annexe across the road, where
9am–5pm, Fri 9am–9pm; free), officially there is also a small pool and café for breakfast,
offers music and dance lessons to locals, have fridges. Main building 4 –5 , annex 6
and also hosts changing exhibitions that
are open to visitors; these are usually
treat yourself

Casagrande Two blocks north

– but not always – related to the city’s of the Parque Central on C 7
history. Its location makes it a nice place NO T772 0512, Wwww
to hide from the sun for a while. .casagrande-hotel.com. The
most atmospheric hotel in town,
Iglesia de la Merced this beautiful colonial mansion
Four blocks south from the Parque has a colonnaded, flower-filled
Central is another colonial church, the courtyard and individually
Iglesia de la Merced (daily 7am–8pm). decorated rooms filled with
tasteful period furniture.
Built between 1550 and 1558 (though its
Laundry service, free breakfast
facade dates only to the early eighteenth and Internet make it well worth the
century), this was the city’s original splurge. 7
cathedral, holding the Reloj Arabe
until 1715, when the new cathedral was
consecrated. In front of the church is
Eating and drinking
the very pretty Plaza La Merced, site of
a proposed souvenir market. An extensive general market four blocks south
of the Parque Central sells meat and fish, while
Arrival and information stalls around the main building have fresh fruit and
vegetables. You can easily pick up an almuerzo for
By bus Buses drop passengers off on the highway under L50 in the surrounding comedores.
at the top of “the Boulevard”, which connects CA-5 Comida Rápida Venezia Av 1 NO, one block south
to the centre; the stop is about 1km from the Parque of Parque. With canteen-style service this is a great,
Central – either a L15 taxi ride or 20min walk. cheap place for lunch. Meats L23, pastas L22, salad
Exchange Banco Occidente on the Parque (Mon– L15. Closed evenings & Sun.
Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 8–11.30am) changes dollars. Repostería y Cafetería La Económica Av 1 NE.
Credomatic, on Av 1 NO just past C 6 NO, has an This bakery serves giant slabs of cake for L20
ATM that accepts MasterCard and Visa. near Plaza La Merced. Grab a slice, sit and enjoy
Internet La Red, on the Parque (Mon–Sat 8am– the plaza.
9pm, Sun 9am–8pm) charges L20/hr; computers Restaurante Plaza Colonial Next to the
have Skype. cathedral, on the east side of the Parque
Tourist information The tourist office on the Central T772 1836. This restaurant has two rooms
north side of the Parque (Tues–Fri 8am–noon & inside and a courtyard, where you can either grab
348
a comida rápida (sandwiches L55, burgers L90; Tegucigalpa (with El Rey 1–2 hourly 3am–7pm;
served until 5pm) or come for something a bit more with Norteños 1–2 hourly 6.30am–2.30pm; 1hr
special in the evening (pastas L120, meat dishes 30min). For Lago de Yojoa, catch any San Pedro
L150) and watch people congregate in the Parque. Sula–bound bus and ask for La Guama.
Sangrias Just north of the Parque Central on
Av 1 NO. This jazz and rock bar is housed in a Lago de Yojoa
150-year-old building where giant handmade barrels
Beyond Comayagua, the highway

honduras
serve as tables. It’s the only place serving submarine-
descends from the mountains and
style sandwiches like you’d find at home (L100), as
well as veggie burgers (L95) and beer (L25). It’s also a
the air becomes appreciably warmer.
nice spot for a few drinks in the evenings. Some 67km north of Comayagua sits
Tropical Juice Av 1 NO. Licuados and juices (L30) the spectacular, sparkling blue LAGO
in every fruit mix imaginable – you can either drink DE YOJOA, a natural lake approxi-

The central highlands

them here or take away. mately 17km long and 9km wide. Its
Villa Real A block southeast of the Parque on Av reed-fringed waters, sloping away to a
1 NE. Set in a beautifully restored colonial home, gentle patchwork of woods, pastures and
this stylish restaurant has an extensive menu that coffee plantations, are overlooked by the
includes pastas and grilled meat and fish dishes
mountains of Cerro Azul Meámbar to
(L75–135). There’s also a well-stocked bar with
karaoke at weekends.
the east and Santa Bárbara to the north
and west. Both of these contain small
but pristine stretches of cloudforest and
Moving on are protected as national parks. The lake
By bus to: San Pedro Sula (with El Rey 1–2 hourly itself attracts over four hundred species of
3am–7pm; with Norteños 1–2 hourly 6.30am– birds, one of the highest concentrations
2.30pm; with Rivera hourly 5am–4pm; 3hr 15min); in the country.
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4JHVBUFQFRVF 349
 During the week, the waters – and also easy to catch a bus on to La Guama
surrounding hotels – are virtually (L20 in a rapidito) for the lake or back
empty, making for a supremely relaxing to the junction at Siguatepeque (L15 in
place for a couple of days of rowing, a rapidito) for connections to the west.
birdwatching, sport-fishing and Although very accessible, the caves
general outdoor exploring. However, can be slippery, so make sure you have
at weekends the lake is a favourite with
honduras

decent shoes.
middle-class hondureños, and the peace
can be shattered by the crowds and the Parque Nacional Cerro Azul
buzz of jet-skis. Meámbar
Continuing north, the highway divides
What to see and do at the small town of La Guama, from
The central highlands

where a dirt road runs east for another

The area around Lago de Yojoa offers
7km to the entrance to Parque Nacional
some of the most adventurous activities
Cerro Azul Meámbar (daily 8am–5pm;
of the region: you can hike through the
L30). Named after its highest peak,
cloudforests of the national parks, get
the blue-hued Cerro Azul Meámbar
wet crawling behind a 43-metre waterfall
(2047m), this is one of the smaller and
and explore some dark and mysterious
most accessible national parks, with
caves. If it’s nature you’re after, the very
a core of untouched cloudforest. The
knowledgeable Malcolm, resident bird
visitors’ centre at the park’s entrance
expert at D&D Brewery (see opposite),
has information on a number of short
runs fantastic early morning tours on
walking trails. Anyone planning to hike
the lake (L600 for four people). With
so many species of birds – including should be prepared for precipitously
herons, kingfishers and hawks – as well steep gradients in the upper reaches of
as bats, iguanas and otters, this is a great the reserve, with dense vegetation and
way to see the local wildlife and get out tumbling waterfalls.
on the lake. Malcolm also offers tours to If you want to stay, the park has
the western side of the lake to Parque some fantastic accommodation with
Nacional Santa Bárbara and its cloud- mega rooms housing a minimum of 15
forest (one- and two-day tours start at people (2 ) and smart, clean triples (6 ).
L900 for two people). Santa Bárbara is Camping is also available, but you need
otherwise difficult to visit independ- to bring your own equipment.
ently, as the tourist infrastructure is still If you ask nicely, the regular Santa
developing, and in early stages. Elena bus from La Guama will take you
all the way to the park for L150. Alter-
Las Cuevas natively, and only if you are not alone,
Some interesting caves (8am–4pm; you can try and hitch a ride.
L40) make an easy stop off the CA-5
at Km140. Over twelve kilometres of Peña Blanca
tunnels and caverns have so far been The village of Peña Blanca, north of the
explored, but only four hundred metres lake, is the commercial focus for the
have paths and lighting, and there’s likely area. Approaching from the south on
many kilometres more past the discov- CA-5, ask for the desvío (turn-off) to
ered section. You can walk through the Peña Blanca, just after La Guama; from
caves on your own, but local guides also here you can catch one of the frequent
hang around (negotiate a price before- rapiditos (L20) or local buses (L10) to
hand – generally L35–45). All local Peña Blanca itself. The El Mochito bus
buses running along the CA-5 will drop from San Pedro Sula also passes through
you off here without any problem; it is Peña Blanca.
350
 Skynet cybercafé on the main road fills with locals at the weekend and a
through Peña Blanca has internet at restaurant serves up cheap local fish and
15L an hour. Banco Occidente changes fried chicken and chips.
dollars and traveller’s cheques, though
there is no ATM. You can find restau- Accommodation
rants in the village with lunches under

honduras
L50, and there are also a couple of The accommodation options listed here also have
dining facilities.
mini-supermarkets.
Agua Azul On the road between La Guama and
Peña Blanca T991 7244, Eaboesch@hotmail
Catarata de Pulhapanzak .com. As popular with locals as it is with visiting
The absolute highlight of this region is Peace Corps volunteers. Rustic cabins enjoy a
the Catarata de Pulhapanzak (daily

The western highlands

lovely setting among wooded grounds sloping down
8am–6pm; L30), a stunning, 43-metre- to the waterside, and the restaurant’s veranda has
high cascade of churning white waters fabulous views across the lake; there’s also a pool,
on the Río Lindo. Probably the prettiest and the hotel rents boats (L200/hr) and kayaks
waterfall in the country, the cascade is at (L150/hr). Buses between La Guama and Peña
Blanca can drop you on the main road, from where
its most dazzling in the early mornings,
it’s a 10min walk to the hotel. Doubles 4 , 4-bed
when rainbows form in the rising sun. cabin 6
It’s easy enough to explore on your D&D Brewery A little way outside Peña Blanca on
own – you can swim at the top of the the road to San Pedro Sula T994 9719, Wwww
waterfall, then climb down a set of .dd-brew.com. This hotel and microbrewery has
steep, wet steps on the right-hand side several varieties of beer and home-made sodas on
past several viewpoints to the riverbank offer for around L30 a mug. There are four private
at the bottom of the falls. To really get rooms (3 ) and romantic cabins with a Jacuzzi (5 ),
the most out of your visit, though, take as well as a very clean pool and restaurant. To get
here take the El Mochito bus from Peña Blanca
advantage of the fantastic guided tours
towards San Pedro Sula until you pass a bridge
run by the on-site staff (L100; wear over a small creek. A signed dirt road heads off to
sturdy shoes). They’ll take you jumping the right past a stonewall to the premises (a 5min
or diving in and out of pools, ducking walk along this road).
behind the falls – an experience not
unlike being in a giant, powerful shower
– and climbing in and out of the caves

The western
behind the curtain of water. It’s not
for the faint-hearted, but if you like

highlands
adventure you’ll be telling your friends
about it for years to come. If heights
aren’t a problem then the canopy tour
(L300) is another must: a network of five The western highlands of Honduras
ziplines work their way down the river are a picturesque landscape of pine
until you are flying through rainbows forests, sparsely inhabited mountains
above the waterfall. and remote villages. The departments
The falls are an easy fifteen-minute of Lempira and Intibucá contain the
walk from the village of San Buenaven- highest concentration of indigenous
tura, 8km north of Peña Blanca; buses peoples in the country, and many of
between El Mochito and San Pedro the towns in the region make up the so-
Sula run hourly, passing through both called Ruta Lenca. Around the village
Peña Blanca and San Buenaventura en of La Esperanza particularly, look out
route. The area immediately around the for Lenca women wearing traditional
falls has been kitted out for its visitors. coloured headdresses while working in
A football field just inside the entrance the fields.
351
 The main road between La Esperanza From the desvío (turn-off) to La
and Gracias, the next settlement Esperanza, just north of Siguatepeque,
north, is unfortunately a slow and buses run to the town every couple of
uncomfortable journey. The road is hours until mid-afternoon (68km; 2hr).
being improved, but slowly. However, Buses running between Tegucigalpa
if you’re not in a rush it is a fun and and San Pedro Sula can drop you off at
honduras

beautiful journey and saves having to the desvío.

go north to San Pedro Sula and back
south again. Once you finally get there, San Juan IntibucÁ
cobbled, colonial Gracias makes a A bumpy 52km north of La Esperanza,
relaxing base for hikes in the pristine the village of SAN JUAN INTIBUCÁ
cloudforest reserve of the Parque
The western highlands

is slowly finding its way onto the tourist

Nacional Celaque. An easy bus ride
map thanks to a local cooperativa
away is Santa Rosa de Copán, which
promoting the area’s Lenca traditions.
is also a relaxing place to stay and still
Information about available tours and
unspoilt, despite its growing popularity
demonstrations is available from Hotel
with tourists and its proximity to the
Guancascos in Gracias (see p.353) or
Copán ruins.
La Casa de Gladis Nolasco, a block
from the Hondutel office on Calle
La Esperanza
Principal; options include participating
Just north of the town of Siguatepeque, in the roasting of coffee beans, hikes to
a good paved road heads west from nearby waterfalls and cloudforest, and
CA-5 to the village of LA ESPERANZA, observing the production of traditional
the centre of commerce for western handicrafts. There are three daily pick-
Honduras and the capital of the depart- ups from La Esperanza (10am–4pm;
ment of Intibucá. During the week 1hr 30min) running to the town. If
there’s nothing much of interest here, you’re lucky, you can grab a rapidito
but the town livens up considerably back from San Juan to Gracias,
during the colourful weekend market
although frequency is not all that
(Sat & Sun), when Lenca farmers from
reliable so a pick-up may be your only
surrounding villages pour into town.
option.
It’s likely that if you’re heading to
Gracias you’ll need to stay overnight
Gracias
in La Esperanza due to the lack of
buses. The centrally located Hotel Founded in 1536 by Spanish conquis-
Urquia (T 783 0435; 2 ) is a reason- tador Juán de Chavez, GRACIAS lies
able bet. Some bathrooms only have a in the shadow of the nearby Parque
three-quarter wall and aren’t the best if Nacional Celaque. It’s a hot and dusty
you need privacy, but newer rooms on cobbled town, but well located for day-
the first floor are considerably nicer. trips to surrounding natural attractions,
For food, the local daily market sells a including the park and some natural
multitude of fresh fruit and vegetables, hot springs (daily 7am–11pm; L30),
while Opalaca’s restaurant has good- about an hour’s walk south or L100
sized portions of international food (club return in a mototaxi. These are small
sandwich and chips L68, burgers L55). pools purpose-built for bathing in the
For the more adventurous, barbecued 36–39°C waters here; an on-site comedor
meat dishes – including huevos de toro serves basic meals. By foot, take the
(bull’s testicles; L110) – come to the table road back towards La Esperanza until
on a sizzling plate. La Esperanza has one you reach the right hand turn-off for the
ATM that takes Visa cards. Aguas Termales.
352
 Arrival and information Parque Nacional
Celaque
By bus The terminal is three blocks west of the
Parque Central.
PARQUE NACIONAL CELAQUE
Exchange Banco Occidente, one block west of (L50) protects one of the largest and
the Parque (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 8–11.30am), most impressive expanses of virgin
cloudforest in Honduras. Thousands

honduras
changes dollars, cash and traveller’s cheques, but
doesn’t have an ATM. of years of geographical isolation has
Internet Ecolem, in front of Guancascos hotel, resulted in several endemic species of
charges L20/hr. flora. Locals also claim that the park
Tourist information The office in the centre of the is home to more quetzals than all of
Parque (daily 8am–noon & 1–4.30pm) sells maps
Guatemala, though you’ll still have to

The western highlands

(L15) and offers good information.
keep a sharp eye out to see one. A bit
more obvious, and the focus of the park,
Accommodation is the nation’s highest peak, Cerro Las
Both Erick and Josue allow you to leave bags if Minas (2849m), part of the Montaña de
hiking at the National Park. El Jarron café (Mon–Sat Celaque escarpment.
7.30am–5pm, Sun 7.30am–noon) has tents to rent
(L60/night). What to see and do
Erick One block north of the Parque T 656
1066. This favourite backpackers’ hostel is hard Rambles and hikes of all experience
to miss, in a green brick building. Rooms are levels are possible in the park. The
clean but basic with pipes for showers. Some most exciting and scenic option is the
bathrooms are separated by a half wall, so not
six-kilometre marked trail up to the
completely private. 2
Hospedaje Josue Next to the market T 940
summit of Cerro Las Minas. In the upper
6182. The well-kept courtyard and rooms with reaches of the park much of the main
private bathrooms are much nicer than the trail consists of forty-degree slopes, so
shared-bathroom rooms. You can wash clothes this is not a hike for the unfit. If the peak
here, too. 2 . is your aim, you’ll need to camp at one
of the two designated camping spots –
Eating Campamento Don Tomás and Campa-
mento Naranjo – along the way (L50).
Guancascos Three blocks west and two blocks The cloudforest proper doesn’t begin
south of the Parque Central. This hotel and restau- until after the latter, so if you can, try to
rant draws most diners in town with mains for
make it this far. Guides aren’t necessary
L140 and beers for L30; you can enjoy them on a
very pleasant terrace. The owner, Frony, is also an
for the main trail, but you’ll need one if
excellent source of local information. planning to undertake the more difficult
El Jarrón This restaurant south of the Parque has treks on the southern slopes; these can
typical breakfasts and lunches for L45. be arranged through Hotel Guancascos
Riconcito Graciano Two blocks west and south of (see above) in Gracias.
the Parque. The menu here features dishes made
solely from organic, local ingredients, with mains
Arrival and information
from around L60.
Arrival The park is best approached from Gracias;
Moving on the entrance is a hot and dusty 8km walk from
town. Take the dirt road through the village of
By bus to: San Pedro Sula (1 daily direct with Mejicapa, from where a marked track leads uphill
Gracianos, 5 daily with Congolón; 4hr); Santa to the entrance. Pick-ups are sometimes available.
Rosa de Copán (various buses from main terminal Pay your entrance fee at the little Comedor Villa
throughout the day; 1hr 15min). For Copán, take Verde opposite the school.
any San Pedro Sula-bound bus and change at La Information Guancascos in Gracias functions as an
Entrada. unofficial information centre for the park. As well as
353
 selling booklets and maps, they can arrange lifts up and evenings, Santa Rosa de Copán
to the lodge, gear, guide and entrance (L450–550 heats up during the day.
per person per day).
What to see and do
Accommodation and eating
Chosen in 1765 as the headquarters of
From the entrance, a track leads for another 2km the Royal Tobacco Factory, the golden
honduras

or so through the pine forest to the basic lodge,

weed continues to play a role in the local
where there are bunkrooms and showers (1 ). If
planning an overnight stay bring your own food
economy. The Flor de Copán Cigar
supplies, or Doña Alejandra, just outside the Company maintains offices in the town
lodge entrance, serves dinners for L35 until 7pm. centre – in the original Royal Tobacco
Sleeping bags, decent boots and a change of warm building on Calle Centenario – but their
The western highlands

clothing are essential. factory is located 2km northwest of the

town centre, about 300m after turning
Santa Rosa de Copán right out of the bus station. Around
It’s an easy ninety-minute bus ride thirty thousand hand-rolled cigars are
45km northwest from Gracias to produced daily, and tours in Spanish
SANTA ROSA DE COPÁN, a and English are available at 10am and
colourful colonial relic built on the 2pm (US$2). In Colonia San Martín, a
proceeds of the tobacco industry. short taxi ride away, is another mainstay
Unusual for a town of this size, the in the local economy, the Beneficio
majority of its streets are still cobbled, Maya (W www.cafecopan.com) coffee
preserving an authentic feel in spite of finca. A family-run business, they offer
the town’s unashamedly commercial tours (US$2) during the coffee season
outlook. While fresh in the mornings (Nov–Feb) but welcome visitors year
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354
round. Tours at both factories should be
organized through the tourist office at
Eating
least a day ahead. Santa Rosa’s great number of visitors has resulted
Back in the centre of town is the in something of a glut of eating establishments.
delightful, shady Parque Contreras, Cheap comedores line the bus station and upstairs
also called the Parque Central, with in the Mercado Central, where filling almuerzos can

honduras
a beautiful cathedral on its eastern be had for L25–35. In the evenings street vendors
sell tamales and tortillas around the Mercado
side. Calle Centenario, lined with
Central and Parque. Most restaurants offer specials,
shops and restaurants, runs along giving options that won’t upset your budget.
the southern edge of the Parque, past
the town’s central market a couple of Restaurants
blocks east.

The western highlands

Antojitos Mita’s C Centenario. Sweet little place
that sells breakfast in a cup (banana and cornflake
licuado) L20! Lunches, burgers and sandwiches,
Arrival and information
too, all for under L35.
By bus Buses arrive at a terminal just off the Cristy C Centenario. Really popular with locals,
highway, 2km northwest of the centre. Taxis (L12) this canteen-style cafeteria is great for a quick
and the yellow buses marked “urbanos” (L5) run lunch – you can get different meats, potato, salad,
regularly to the Parque Contreras. rice, mash, noodles and vegetables. One meat, two
Tour operators Lenca Land Trails (Elencatours sides and a drink L53, three sides L62. Open for
breakfast and lunch only.
@gmail.com; based in the Hotel Elvir) offers a
Pizza Pizza Five blocks east of the Parque along
number of excellent tours, including trips to Parque
C Centenario. This was western Honduras’s first
Nacional Celaque, indigenous villages and hot
pizza restaurant and is justifiably popular among
springs, all for around US$40. Max Elvir, a local
the travelling community. An “almuerzo combo”
guide, is very flexible so chat with him about what
of pizza, garlic bread and drink costs about L67.
you want to see and he will try to arrange it.
Closed Wed.
Tourist information wwww.visitsantarosadecopan
El Rodeo Av 1 SE, one and a half blocks south of
.org. The tourist office in the centre of the Parque
the Parque. The best steaks in town, with huge
has city maps (L15) and internet (L15/hr) and a
slabs of meat served at very reasonable rates.
friendly and helpful staff (Mon–Sat 8am–noon &
Burgers, tacos and sandwiches are all under L50,
1.30pm–6pm).
and most mains are under L135; they also offer
a “cocina económica” menu with meals for L73.
Accommodation Open until late with live music at the weekends.
Ten Napel Café C Centenario, Av 3–4 SO. Sells
A great option in Santa Rosa de Copán is to locally produced soft drink Copán Dry (L10) as well
organize a homestay through the tourist office. as a good selection of coffees (L18–25) and cakes
They start at about L120 per night, and offer a nice (from L18). wi-fi and souvenirs available.
insight into everyday family life. Weekends Pizza Av 4 NO & C 2 SO. New pizza
Alondras Av 2 SO T662 1194/3583. Opt for one of restaurant in a brightly coloured space with a few
the upstairs bedrooms for a bit more light. The open tables in a shaded courtyard. Great place if you’re
communal area has lots of seating, and coffee, juice in a group. Pizzas start at L105.
and pastries are available at breakfast. 4 –5
Blanca Nieves Av 3 NE T662 1312. A decent
Drinking
budget option with friendly owners. Access is
through a small shop, but rooms are neat and Cuartes C 1 SE, Av 4–5 SE. A Mexican bar and
comfortable; the en-suite ones are larger and better restaurant with karaoke at the weekends. Cocktails
value than those with shared bathrooms. 1 –2 are L55 and main meals under L155. The kitchen is
El Rosario Av 3 NE T662 0211. Next door to open until 11pm, and the bar until 2am.
Blanca Nieves, and with a similar choice of rooms, El Rodeo Av 1 SE, one and a half blocks south of
both en-suite and with shared bath. Rooms are the Parque. Has music at the weekends and a great
clean, but some are a little dark and cell-like, and atmosphere. Most cocktails run L30–40, and they
those with bathrooms are little more than a room sell spirits by the bottle, which can be a great deal
portioned off with a shower curtain. 2 if you have a group.
355
 Sula (direct with La Sultana de Occidente hourly
Directory 4am–1pm, 2hr 30min; local services every 30min,
3hr 30min); Tegucigalpa (direct with La Sultana de
Exchange Banco Occidente, south of the Parque,
Occidente hourly 4am–1pm; 7hr 30min).
has a 24hr Visa/Plus ATM and also changes cash
dollars and traveller’s cheques. A second ATM
(Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 9am–noon) is opposite Copán ruinas
Manzanitas supermarket. A charming town of steep cobbled
honduras

Internet The cheapest rates are available at the streets and red-tiled roofs set among
tourist office (L15/hr), but access is also available at green hills, COPÁN RUINAS has
the Copán Virtual Centre in Casa Arias, C Centenario more to offer than just its proximity
(Mon–Sat 8am–10pm).
to the infamous archeological site of
Post office On the west side of the Parque (Mon–
Copán. Despite the weekly influx of
The western highlands

Fri 8am–noon & 2pm–5pm, Sat 8am–noon).

Shopping Supermarket Manzanitas, C Real Cente- visitors, which contributes a large part
nario and Av 2 NE (Mon–Sat 8am–7.30pm, Sun of the town’s income, Copán Ruinas
8am–2pm) has the usual cans and packets and a has managed to remain largely unspoilt
wide choice of bottled spirits. The Mercado Santa and genuinely friendly. Many travellers
Teresa has fresh fruit and vegetables. are seduced by the delightfully relaxed
Telephones Hondutel, on the west side of the atmosphere, clean air and rural setting,
Parque (daily 7am–9pm). You can also make calls to and end up spending longer than
the US (L1/min) and Europe (L5/min) at the Copán planned, studying Spanish, eating and
Virtual Centre.
drinking well or exploring the region’s
other minor sites, hot springs and the
Moving on beautiful countryside.
Regular urbanos (city buses) run between the
Parque and the main bus terminal (L5). What to see and do
By bus to: Copán (take any San Pedro Sula-bound
bus and change at La Entrada, or go direct to La Half a day is enough to take in virtually
Entrada); La Entrada (local service every 30min; all the in-town attractions. The Parque
1hr); Nueva Ocotepeque (hourly 8.45am–8.30pm Central – lined with banks, municipal
with La Sultana de Occidente; 2hr); San Pedro structures and a simple, whitewashed

into el salvador and guatemala: el poy and agua

caliente
Buses to both El Salvador and Guatemala pass through Nueva Ocotepeque (hourly
from Santa Rosa de Copán with Sultana; 2hr). It’s a dirty, busy town, and most
people change buses and move on quickly, but if you get stuck, the Hotel Turístico,
up from the bus stop (T653 3639; 2 ), is a good option. The Banco de Occidente,
near the bus stop, changes currencies and traveller’s cheques, but you’ll get better
rates for Guatemalan quetzales at the border.
For El Poy (El Salvador), rapiditos run the 7km from Nueva Ocotepeque every
15min 6am–6pm (10min). El Poy itself is drab and dusty, but the crossing is
straightforward, as the immigration windows are next to each other in the same
building just a short walk from where the bus drops you. Banpaís (Mon–Fri 8am–
noon & 1pm–5pm) will change currencies. For most nationalities, there’s no fee to
enter El Salvador, though residents of Canada, Greece, Portugal and the US will
be charged US$10 for a tourist card. Buses to La Palma, the nearest town over the
border, and San Salvador leave every thirty minutes until 4.30pm.
For Agua Caliente (Guatemala), yellow local buses make the thirty-minute trip
from Nueva Ocotepeque every thirty minutes until 6.30pm (L20). There are no
banking or accommodation facilities on the Honduran side. Over in Guatemala,
minibuses leave every twenty minutes for Esquipulas (see p.198) until 6pm.

356
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Baroque-style church – has a series of in town. There are also two remark-
sweeping pillars and arches on its north able tombs, one of which contains the
side and remains a popular place to kill remains of a female shaman, complete
time. with jade jewellery, an entire puma
On the west side of the plaza is the skeleton, the skull of a deer, and two
Museo Regional de Arqueología human sacrificial victims.
(daily 9am–5pm; US$3), housing some One block west of the Parque is
impressive Maya carvings from the the food market, while the Mercado
Copán region, including glyph-covered Artesanal, selling classic tourist fare like
Altars T and U and Stela 7, discovered T-shirts and handicrafts, is one block
just 100 metres from the Parque Central south of the Parque.
357
 Los Gemelos Close to the bus stop T 651 4077.
Arrival and information Friendly backpacker stronghold with basic but
spotless rooms with fans, all with shared bath.
By bus Buses from the east generally terminate
This is one of the best budget options in town with
by a small football field at the entrance to town,
reliable hot water, so it fills up qiuckly. 2
though some continue up the low hill to the Parque
Posada Macanudo One and a half blocks north of
Central. Buses from Guatemala enter town from the
the Parque Central T651 4771. Rooms are clean
west and stop just before the Parque.
honduras

and simple, each furnished differently and with fan

Tour operators Basecamp, in the ViaVia café (see
and hot water. All except one room has a private
opposite), does “rural adventures”, including tours
bathroom. A lovely terrace with hammocks overlooks
to a local coffee plantation, horseriding trips and
the outskirts of Copán and the surrounding hills. 4
visits to the hot springs. Hiking, motorbike trips and
ViaVia Two blocks west of the Parque
travel to La Moskitia can also be arranged. Copán
Central T651 4652. This hotel-cum-
Connections, under Twisted Tanya (see opposite),
The western highlands

café-cum-tourist office has great-value, simple

is a one-stop source of information on Copán and
but spotless rooms with en-suite bathrooms. The
popular destinations like Lago de Yojoa and the Bay
hospitable Belgian owners speak excellent English,
Islands. In addition to information on hot springs,
and will help you organize trips through the onsite
indigenous villages and canopy tours, Jennifer of
Basecamp office. Salsa and film nights bring the
Copán Connections can help organize post-activity
crowds in at the weekends. Singles 3 , doubles 3
yoga and massage sessions.
Youth Hostel en la Manzana Verde One and
Tourist information Copán Connections and
a half blocks north of the Parque Central. Under
Basecamp (see below) are excellent sources of
the same ownership as ViaVia (tsame phone),
local and national information.
this hostel has well-planned six-bed dorm rooms,
kitchen and laundry facilities, and a noticeboard for
Accommodation information. 1
Some of the best hostels in this region are in Copán
treat yourself

– and indeed, it’s probably worth staying at one Hacienda San Lucas 1.8 km
of them, so you can save up for the area’s other south of the Parque Central
attractions. Beware of unofficial hotel representa- T651 4106, Wwww
tives trying to shepherd you into hotels upon arrival .haciendasanlucas.com.
(some may even board buses armed with a highly Wonderful converted farmhouse
developed sales pitch). accommodation set in the
Casa de Café B&B At the southwest edge hills south of town, with
of town, overlooking the Río Copán valley breathtaking views over the
T 651 4620, Wwww.casadecafecopan.com. A valley. There’s an attached
charming place with ten comfortable and airy restaurant with excellent
rooms, all with wood panelling and nice individual home-cooked food (rates include
touches, and private bathrooms with steaming hot breakfast), plus horseriding and
water. Outside there's a fabulous garden where you hiking trails to a nearby archeological
can lie in a hammock and enjoy the views all day. A site Los Sapos. A new meditation
huge vegetarian breakfast is included, and there’s and yoga platform offers the chance
free coffee, a library and TV. 6 for reflection as you look out over
Iguana Azul Next to the Casa de Café B&B T651 Copán, and massages can also be
4620, Wwww.iguanaazulcopan.com. The definitive arranged by Copán Connections or
budget choice, with three private rooms and two the Hacienda’s owner, Flavia. Your
very pleasant dorms with shared bath and decent time at the Hacienda really comes
mattresses. Amenities include a pretty garden, into its own in the evening, though,
communal area and laundry facilities, plus great when hundreds of candles are lit all
travel information. Dorms 1 , doubles 3 over the grounds and you can watch
La Posada de Belssy One block north of the the night unfold over the ruins. 9
Parque Central T651 4680, Elaposadadebelssy
@gmail.com. With a small pool, hot-water
bathrooms and use of a kitchen, this a popular Eating
choice for those who want to have the flexibility
to cook without having to share a dorm. Laundry Copán’s wide range of places to eat mostly cater
service also available. 3 specifically to the town’s foreign visitors. Standards
358
are usually very high, with generous portions and Pizza Copán Half a block south of the Parque. Both
good service. Virtually all restaurants stop serving locals and tourists come here to indulge in delicious
at 10pm. pizza and pasta (L130–230). Take-away available
– lucky, as they’re generous with both portions and
Cafés toppings. One pizza can easily be shared between
Café ViaVia Two blocks west of the Parque. two or taken home for later.
Belgian-owned establishment with a streetside Twisted Tanya One block south of the plaza.

honduras
terrace and leafy garden. In addition to an array The best food in Copán, with mozzarella and
of sandwiches and good breakfasts – including melon salads, salmon pasta and filet mignon. Three
pancakes and omelettes – there is a very reason- courses will set you back US$18, but Tanya has a
ably priced fixed menu with vegetarian options, backpacker’s special until 6pm for just US$6 and
where nothing costs more than L100. 2-for-1 cocktails galore. Watch out for the potent but
Licuados Express One block east of the Parque. delicious “Jamaicanmecrazy”. Closed Sun.

The western highlands

Open by 6.30am, this little juice bar serves delicious
licuados (L25), juices and breakfasts to the town’s Drinking
early birds. Try the amazing pineapple-and-coconut
licuado or a peanut butter-and-jam bagel (L45). Papa Changos Five blocks south of the Parque
Picame One block northeast of the Parque. A new Central. Best late-night venue in town, if not for
café perfect for breakfast. Its chalk-board menus the only fact that it is open the latest. Things don’t
list more than 12 types of baleadas (L20–40) and really get going much before 10pm, when they
baguettes (L50–85), as well as Mexican nachos, start playing a mix of rock and reggae. New laws
tacos and burritos (L80). Closed Tues. have come in that mean it closes at midnight on
Vamos a Ver Café One block south of the Parque. weekdays and 2am weekends. Open Thurs–Sun.
Busy Dutch-owned garden café, popular with Wine Bar Cito One block south of the Parque.
travellers thanks to affordable and delicious home- Cushioned bottle crates for seats and low lighting
made soups, sandwiches and snacks. Sandwiches make this little bar a cosy spot for a drink. Open
and burgers under L80, mains under L100. until late.
Xibalba Inside hotel Camino Maya, at the southeast Café ViaVia Wed is salsa night with lesson and a
corner of the Parque. Opens at 6.30am with free cuba libre, Sat has a DJ and Sun is Oscar night,
traditional full English breakfasts accompanied with films shown. Closes at midnight.
by a drink and a mountain of fruit is on the menu
for L100. Hiking specials available include a big Shopping
breakfast and a packed lunch.
Books Exchange available at La Casa de Todo, on
Restaurants the next corner from the Hotel Los Gemelos. Just up
Carnitas Nia Lola Two blocks south of the Parque. the hill Colibrí Bookshop (closed Tues) sells English
This popular restaurant/bar serves large portions of and Spanish books and DVDs as well as magazines,
delicious grilled and barbecued meats (L95–265), guidebooks and maps.
plus vegetarian dishes. It’s equally frequented as a Crafts and souvenirs At Arte Acción (Mon-Fri
drinking venue, with 2-for-1 cocktails between 6.30 8am–5pm; Wwww.arteaccionhonduras.org) 100%
and 8.30pm. Anafre (a kind of Honduran fondue) of profits go towards art projects and organized
is included with a food order. Good veggie options; cultural activities for children in Copán. The shop
sandwiches and burgers are L100–130. sells items made by the children during these
Comedor y Pupusería Mary One block southwest projects. Libélula, opposite ViaVia, is a fair-trade
of the Parque. This great local restaurant has shop selling beautiful local jewellery, clothes and
pupusas with various fillings for L10–15. Two to souvenirs. Proceeds go towards a health and
three will keep you going for a while. education program for local Maya villages. Casa
Llama del Bosque Two blocks west of the Parque. Villamil, north of the Parque, has upscale gifts like
Slightly old-fashioned restaurant with a reasonably beautiful Jade jewellery, while La Casa de Todo has
priced menu including local breakfasts, meat and every souvenir imaginable.
chicken dishes, baleadas and snacks (most dishes
L40–100). Directory
Momo’s One block south of the Parque. For huge,
bargain-priced meat dishes, this atmospheric log Exchange Banco Atlántida, on the Parque Central,
restaurant has an open-air barbecue. Massive main will change traveller’s cheques and cash dollars
and a drink L100. (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 8.30–11.30am). Banco
359
 Atlántida’s ATM (24hr) accepts Visa and MasterCard, Enchanted Wings Butterfly
and a door down a second ATM accepts Visa. House
Immigration The migración is on the west side
A twenty-minute walk west from the
of the Parque next to the museum (Mon–Fri
7am–4pm).
plaza, along the road to Guatemala,
Internet There are several internet cafés in town, stands the Enchanted Wings Butterfly
including Maya Connections, just south of the plaza House and Nature Centre (daily 8am–
honduras

(L20/hr) and La Casa de Todo (daily 7am–9pm; 4.30pm; L115), owned by an American
L20/hr), but cheapest is Inter@Café, next door to enthusiast and his Honduran wife. On
ViaVia (L15/hr). entry you will be shown and talked
Language schools Guacamaya (T 651 4360, through any butterflies they are currently
W www.guacamaya.com), one block north of the breeding before walking into a large
plaza, is the older of the two schools and more
enclosure where you’re surrounded by
The western highlands

expensive. Ixbalanque (T 651 4432, W www

.Ixbalanque.com), a block and a half west of
fluttering wings. The delicate creatures
the plaza, is also worth considering. Four hours won’t hesitate to pause and catch their
of classes plus full family-based accommoda- breath while resting on your head. Types
tion with meals costs US$210 (Ixbalanque) and to look out for include the speckled
$225 (Guacamaya) a week (US$140 without brown “giant owl” and the scarlet-and-
accommodation). yellow “helicopter”. Butterflies hatch in
Laundry La Casa de Todo has a one-day service the morning hours, so time your visit
(L10/pound, minimum charge L50). accordingly. In a further enclosure over
Post office Behind the Museo Regional de
two hundred orchids, around a third of
Arqueología (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–5pm, Sat
8am–noon).
Honduras’s native species, are on display.
Telephones There’s a Hondutel office next to the For your best chance to see flowering
post office (daily 7am–9pm; L2/min to the US and orchids visit between February and April
L44/min to Europe). or July and August.

Moving on from Copán Macaw Mountain Bird Park

On the other side of town, 3km north
By bus to: El Florido (local minibuses run of the plaza, the Macaw Mountain Bird
throughout the day from the Parque); Guatemala Park (daily 9am–5pm; US$10) is home
City (2 daily direct shuttles, 5.30am from outside
to parrots, macaws and toucans rescued
Copán Connections and noon outside ViaVia); La
Entrada, for connections to Santa Rosa de Copán
from captivity. Worth the hefty entrance
and Gracias (local buses every 30min; 1hr); San fee, your ticket gives you entrance
Pedro Sula (4 daily with Hedman Alas 5.15am, for three days – with walk-through
10.30am, 2.30pm, 5pm, 2hr 45min; with local bus aviaries, an interaction zone, a stunning
from the football pitch regularly, 3hr). For Teguci- forest location, nature trail and a natural
galpa, Tela and La Ceiba, you must go via San pool for swimming, you’ll want to take
Pedro Sula. advantage of all three. The restaurant,
where they also roast and sell locally
around copán ruinas grown coffee, offers great seafood from
While the main draw for travellers to the Bay Islands.
Copán is the nearby ruins, there’s a lot
more on offer to help you while away a few Las Sepultras
days. Nature parks give visitors the chance Two kilometres east of Copán along the
to walk amongst beautiful butterflies and highway is the smaller archeological
exotic birds, while lesser-known archeo- site of Las Sepultras (daily 8am–4pm;
logical sites like Las Sepultras can be void entrance with the same ticket as for
of fellow tourists and a local family-run Copán, see p.361), the focus of much
farm can show you how your morning interest in recent years because of
cup of coffee came into existence. the information it provides on daily
360
domestic life in Maya times. Eighteen creating natural pools and showers. L40
of the forty-odd residential compounds will get you into the man-made pools,
at the site have been excavated, yielding but across the river, with another L200
one hundred buildings that would have entrance fee, you enter a world fit for a
been inhabited. Smaller compounds Maya king. Pools and footbaths pop up
on the edge of the site are thought to everywhere, and a Maya temple next to

honduras
have housed young princes, as well a natural steam bath offers massages.
as concubines and servants. It was To get to the aguas termales, speak to
customary to bury the nobility close one of Copán’s tour operators for buses
to their residences, and more than 250 (see p.358), or plan on hitching a ride on
tombs have been excavated around a passing pick-up. The latter is reason-
the compounds – given the number ably easy to do from outside the Hotel

The western highlands

of women found in the tombs it seems Paty in Copán or near the bird park;
likely that the local Maya practiced expect to pay around US$1 for the ride,
polygamy. One of the most interesting which takes about fifty minutes. Don’t
finds – the tomb of a priest or shaman, leave the springs any later than 3.30pm if
dating from around 450 AD – is on you’re planning to hitch back to Copán.
display in the museum in Copán Ruinas
town. copán
Set in serene, rolling hills 45km (as the
Luna Jaguar hot springs crow flies) from Santa Rosa de Copán,
Twenty-two kilometres north of Copán COPÁN (daily 8am–4pm; ruins US$15
and set in lush highland scenery dotted (includes entrance to Las Sepultras),
with coffee fincas and tracts of pine, entrance and tunnels US$30, everything
the newly built Luna Jaguar spa resort US$37) is one of the most impressive of
is a great place to relax. Here thermal all Maya sites. Its pre-eminence is not
waters pour into the cold-water river, due to size – in scale it’s far less impres-
sive than sites such as Tikal or Chichén
Itzá – but to the overwhelming legacy of
treat yourself

If you want to get a real insight

into the local way of life, take a
artistic craftsmanship that has survived
day-trip or stay overnight at the over so many centuries. Thanks to
agri-turism centre at Finca El years of promotion from the Honduran
Cisne (T 651 4695, W www government and tour operators, Copán
.fincaelcisne.com) 23km north now ranks as the second most visited spot
of Copán. Owner Carlos’s in the country after the Bay Islands.
family has worked the land here
since 1885, and they now invite
Museum of Mayan
guests to explore their working
farm, which is involved in the Sculpture
production of cardamom, coffee and Opposite the visitors’ centre at the ruins
cattle. Day-long tours (from US$59) (see p.366) is the terrific Museum of
include transport to and from the Mayan Sculpture (daily 8am–4pm;
finca, fantastic scenic horseriding, US$7), arguably the finest in the entire
swimming in the Río Blanco and Maya region, with a tremendous
a trip (entrance included) to the
collection of stelae, altars, panels and
Luna Jaguar hot springs. Tours of
well-labelled explanations in English.
more than one day (from US$77)
include accommodation, dinners and Entrance is through an impressive
breakfasts. Visits can be arranged doorway made to look like the jaws of a
through the Basecamp office in serpent; you then pass through a tunnel
Copán Ruinas. signifying the passage into xibalba, or
the underworld.
361
 $01«/
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362
 Once out of the tunnel you are greeted facing the turtle shaped altar (a symbol
by a dominating, full-scale, flamboy- of longevity) is Eighteen Rabbit’s father
antly painted replica of the magnificent Smoke Jaguar, while on the other side
Rosalila Temple, built by Moon Jaguar is Eighteen Rabbit himself. Stele H
in 571 AD and discovered intact under (730 AD), perhaps the most impres-
Temple 16. A vast crimson and jade sively executed of all the sculptures,

honduras
coloured mask of the Sun God, depicted shows Eighteen Rabbit wearing the
with wings outstretched, forms the latticed skirt of the Maize God, his wrists
main facade. Other exhibits concen- weighed down with jewellery, while
trate on aspects of Maya beliefs and his face is crowned with a stunning
cosmology, while the upper floor houses headdress.
many of the finest original sculptures

The western highlands

from the Copán valley, comprehen- Ball-court
sively displaying the skill of the Maya South of Structure 4, towards the
craftsmen. Acropolis, is the I-shaped ball-court
(738 AD), one of the largest and most
Plaza Central and Gran elaborate of the Classic period, and
Plaza one of the few Maya courts still to have
Straight through the avenue of trees from a paved floor. Dedicated to the great
the warden’s gate lie the Plaza Central macaw deity, both sloping sides of the
and Gran Plaza, large, rectangular arenas court are lined with three sculptured
strewn with the magnificently carved macaw heads. The rooms overlooking
and exceptionally well-preserved stelae the playing area are thought to be where
that are Copán’s outstanding features. priests and the elite watched the game.
The northern end of the Great Plaza
was once a public place, the stepped Hieroglyphic Stairway
sides bordered by a densely populated Protected by a vast canvas cover just
residential area, Structure 4 in the south of the ball-court is the famed
centre of the two plazas is a modestly Hieroglyphic Stairway, perhaps
sized pyramid–temple. Copán’s most astonishing monument.
Dotted all around are Copán’s famed The stairway comprises the entire
stelae and altars, made from local western face of the Temple 26 pyramid,
andesite. Most of the stelae represent and is made up of some 72 stone steps;
Eighteen Rabbit, Copán’s “King of the every block forms part of the glyphic
Arts” (stelae A, B, C, D, F, H and 4). sequence – around 2200 glyph blocks
Stele A (731 AD) has 52 glyphs along in all, forming the longest-known Maya
its sides including the emblem glyphs of hieroglyphic text. Since their discovery
the four great cities of Copán, Palenque, at the end of the nineteenth century
Tikal and Calakmul – a text designed to and a well-meaning reconstruction in
show that Eighteen Rabbit saw his city the 1930s, the blocks have become so
as a pivotal power in the Maya world. jumbled their true meaning is unlikely
The original is now in the museum. ever to be revealed. It is known that
Stele B (731 AD) depicts Eighteen the stairway was initiated to record the
Rabbit bearing a turban-like headdress dynastic history of the city; some of the
intertwined with twin macaws, while lower steps were placed by Eighteen
his hands support a bar motif, a symbol Rabbit in 710 AD, while Smoke Shell
designed to show the ruler holding up rearranged and completed most of the
the sky. Stele C (730 AD) is one of the sequences in an effort to reassert the
earliest stones to have faces on both city’s dignity and strength in 755 AD.
sides. Two rulers are represented here: At the base of the stairway the badly
363
 copán ruins history
Once the most important city-state on the southern fringes of the Maya world,
Copán was largely cut off from all other Maya cities except Quiriguá, 64km to
the north in Guatemala (see p.200). Archeologists now believe that settlers began
moving into the Río Copán valley from around 1400 BC, taking advantage of the
area’s rich agricultural potential, although construction of the city is not thought to
honduras

have begun until around 100 AD. For those interested in finding out more, Vision del
Pasado Maya by Fash and Fasquelle, available from the museums, is an excellent
historical account of the site’s history in Spanish.
426 AD Yax K’uk Mo’ (Great Sun First Quetzal Macaw), a warrior–shaman,
establishes the basic layout of the city. Yax K’uk Mo’s son Popol Hol creates a cult
of veneration for Yax K’uk Mo’ which continues for over fifteen generations.
The western highlands

553 AD Golden era of Copán begins with the accession of Moon Jaguar, and the
construction of his magnificent Rosalila temple.
578–628 AD Reign of Smoke Serpent.
628–695 AD Reign of Smoke Jaguar.
695–738 AD Eighteen Rabbit reigns and oversees the construction of the Gran
Plaza, the final version of the ball-court and Temple 22 in the East Court, creating
much of the stonework for which Copán is now famous.
Following Eighteen Rabbit’s capture and decapitation by Quiriguá’s Cauac Sky,
construction at Copán comes to a halt for seventeen years.
749–763 AD Smoke Shell reigns and completes the construction of the
Hieroglyphic Stairway.
760 AD Copán’s population booms at around 28,000, the highest urban density in
the entire Maya region.
763–820 AD Yax Pasaj, Smoke Shell’s son, commissions Altar Q, which illustrates
the entire dynasty from its beginning.
776 AD Yax Pasaj completes the final version of Temple 16.
822 AD Ukit Took’ assumes the throne; the only monument to his reign, Altar L, was
never completed. Skeletal remains indicate the decline of the city was provoked by
inadequate food resources created by population pressures.
1576 Don Diego de Palacios, a Spanish court official, mentions the ruins of a
magnificent city “constructed with such skill that it seems that they could never
have been made by people as coarse as the inhabitants of this province” in a letter.
1834 Explorer Juan Galindo writes an account of the ruins.
1839 John Stephens, the US ambassador to Honduras, buys the ruins.
Accompanied by Frederick Catherwood, a British architect and artist, they clear
the site and map the buildings. Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and
Yucatán is published by Stephens and Catherwood, and Copán becomes a magnet
for archeologists.
1891 British archeologist Alfred Maudsley begins a full-scale mapping, excavation
and reconstruction of the site sponsored by Harvard University’s Peabody Museum.
1935 Washington Carnegie Institute diverts the Río Copán to prevent it carving into
the site.
1959–60 Archeologists Heinrich Berlin and Tatiana Proskouriakoff begin to decipher
the site’s hieroglyphs, leading to the realization that they record the history of the
cities and the dynasties.
1977 Instituto Hondureño de Antropología e Historia starts running a series of
projects, including the tunnelling, with the help of archeologists from around the
world.
1989 Rosalila Temple, buried beneath Temple 16, is discovered.
1993 Papagayo Temple, built by Popol Hol and dedicated to his father Yax K’uk
Mo’, is discovered.
1998 Yax K’uk Mo’s tomb is discovered.

364
weathered Stele M depicts Smoke Shell life-sized jaguar heads – the hollow eyes
and records a solar eclipse in 756 AD. would have once held jade or polished
obsidian. Dominating the Acropolis,
Temple 11 Temple 16 built on top of the Rosalila
Adjacent to the Hieroglyphic Stairway, Temple is the tallest structure in Copán,
and towering over the extreme southern a thirty-metre pyramid completed by

honduras
end of the plaza, are the vertiginous the city’s sixteenth ruler, Yax Pasaj, in
steps of Temple 11 (Temple of the 776 AD. It was Maya custom to ritually
Inscriptions). At its base, Stele N (761 deface or destroy obsolete temples and
AD) represents Smoke Shell. The depth stelae. Yax Pasaj’s extraordinary care to
of the relief has protected the nooks preserve the Rosalila Temple beneath
and crannies, and in some of these you illustrates the importance of the previous

The western highlands

can still see flakes of paint – originally centre of worship during a period that
the carvings and buildings would have marked the apogee of the city’s political,
been painted in a whole range of bright social and artistic growth. The discovery
colours, but only the red has survived. of the Rosalila Temple has been one of
the most exciting finds of recent years.
Acropolis You can now view the brilliant original
South of the Hieroglyphic Stairway facade of the buried temple by entering
monumental temples rise to form the through a short tunnel – an unforget-
Acropolis. This lofty inner sanctum table, if costly (US$12), experience, as
was the reserve of royalty, nobles and it may be sealed again in future years.
priests where religious rituals were The admission price also includes access
enacted, sacrifices performed and rulers to two further tunnels, which extend
entombed. For over four hundred years, below the East Court and past some
the temples grew higher and higher early cosmological stucco carvings
as new structures were built over the – including a huge macaw mask – along
remains of earlier buildings. A warren with more buried temple facades and
of excavated tunnels, some open to the crypts including the Galindo tomb.
public, bore through the vast bulk of the At the southern end of the East Court
Acropolis to the Rosalila Temple and is Structure 18, a small square building
several tombs. with four carved panels, and the burial
place of Yax Pasaj, who died in AD 821.
Popol-Na The diminutive scale of the structure
A few metres east of Temple 11 are the reveals how quickly decline set in. The
Popol-Na (Structure 22A), a govern- tomb, empty when excavated by arche-
mental building with interlocking ologists, is thought to have been looted
weave-like brick patterns, and Temple on a number of occasions. South of
22, which boasts some superbly intricate Structure 18, the Cemetery Group was
stonework around the door frames and formerly thought of as a burial site,
was the site of religious blood-letting though it’s now known to have been a
ceremonies. The decoration here is residential complex for the ruling elite.
unique in the southern Maya region,
with only the Yucatán sites such as West Court
Kabáh and Chicanna having carvings of The second plaza of the Acropolis, the
comparable quality. West Court, is confined by the south
side of Temple 11 and Temple 16. At the
East Court base of Temple 16 and carved in 776 AD,
Below Temple 22 are the stepped sides Altar Q celebrates Yax Pasaj’s accession
of the East Court, a graceful plaza with to the throne on July 2, 763 AD. Six
365
 into guatemala: El Florido
The Guatemalan border is just twelve kilometres west of Copán, and crossing at
the El Florido border post – usually busy with travellers coming to and from the
ruins – is pretty straightforward, though it can be slow. Minibuses and pick-ups
leave for El Florido from just west of the Parque about every thirty minutes until
around 4pm. Copán Connections and Basecamp in Copán Ruinas (see p.358)
honduras

have direct shuttles to Antigua and Guatemala City daily at 5.30am and noon
for US$12 with connections to Río Dulce. There’s no bank, but the ever-present
moneychangers handle dollars, lempiras and quetzales at fairly good rates.
From the border, buses leave every thirty minutes (the last is at 4pm) for Chiquimula
(1hr 15min; see p.197), 57km away down a smooth, newly paved road.
Olancho

hieroglyphic blocks decorate the top of are at least comfortable and secure with
the altar, while the sides are decorated en-suite bathroom and TV.
with sixteen cross-legged figures who
represent previous rulers of Copán. All
point towards a portrait of Yax Pasaj,
which shows him receiving a ceremonial
staff from the city’s first ruler, Yax K’uk Olancho
Mo’, thereby endorsing Yax Pasaj’s right
to rule. Stretching east of Tegucigalpa to the
Nicaraguan border and north into
Arrival and information the emptiness of La Mosquitia, the
sparsely populated uplands of Olancho
From Copán Ruinas centre the ruins are an easy are widely regarded as the “Wild East”
15min walk along a shaded pavement following of Honduras: an untamed frontier
the highway; you can also grab a mototaxi from region with a not-entirely undeserved
the Parque Central (5min; L10). On entrance you’ll
reputation for lawlessness. Over time,
see to your right the cafeteria and souvenir shop;
in front of you is the Museum of Mayan Sculpture;
everyone from the first Spanish settlers
and to your left is the visitors’ centre, where you to the Honduran government has
pay your entrance fee. From here it’s a 200m walk had trouble imposing law and order
east to the warden’s gate, where your ticket will here, and in many respects today is
be checked and you’ll be greeted by squabbling no different: the region’s profitable
macaws. Guides are available and are well worth cattle-ranching industry (which has
the fee – they do an excellent job bringing the ruins encroached into national parks and
to life; get together with other visitors to spread the other protected areas) and the logging
cost (around US$35 for 2hr). of its massive forests (much of which is
done illegally) have led to the creation
La Entrada of a powerful local oligarchy supported
Northeast from Copán the CA-11 winds by military and police connivance. As
its scenic way through lightly wooded a result, environmental issues have
mountains and fertile pasture to LA been sidelined, and activisits have been
ENTRADA, a distinctly unpleasant threatened and even killed. These terri-
junction town 55km northeast of Copán. torial issues should not pose a problem
It’s only useful for its bus connections to to travellers, but obviously steer clear of
San Pedro Sula, Santa Rosa and Copán any situations that seem dangerous.
Ruinas. If you get stuck here, Hotel San Despite Olancho’s size – it makes up
Carlos (T 898 5228; 4 ), at the junction a fifth of Honduras’s total territory
of CA-11 and CA-4, is the best of the – tourist attractions in this region are
available accommodation, where rooms few, and its high, forested mountain
366
ranges interspersed with broad valleys centre, a 15min walk north. Local buses run from
make getting from place to place the terminal on the right side of the road (facing
difficult and slow. However, these same town); while direct buses to Tegucigalpa and the
north coast use the other side.
ranges harbour some of the country’s
Exchange Several banks dot the perimeter of
last untouched expanses of tropical Parque Banderas.
and cloudforest: the national parks of Internet The best access can be found at Ciber

honduras
El Boquerón and Sierra de Agalta are Café on C 1 NO, one block from Hotel Honduras.
awe-inspiring. Along the valleys, now They also provide international phone services for
given over to pastureland for cattle, L20 per minute.
are scattered villages and towns. Both Tourist information The local COHDEFOR office
Juticalpa, the department capital, and (daily 8am–4pm; T885 2253) is in a green house
at the bottom of Av 7 between C 14 and 13, about
Catacamas, at the eastern end of the

Olancho
two blocks west of the bus terminal.
paved road, are good bases for exploring
the region.
Olancho’s climate is generally pleasant, Accommodation
with the towns at lower altitudes hot Don’t expect too much in the way of cosseted
during the day and comfortably cool luxury in town, or indeed anywhere in Olancho.
at night; up in the mountains it can Hotel Honduras C1 NO T 785 1580. Rooms here
get extremely cold after dark. Once off are lifeless but clean, and all have overhead fan, TV
the main highway, travelling becomes and en-suite bathroom. 3
arduous, with the dirt roads connecting Hotel Reyes C1 NO, on the same street as Ciber
Café T785 2232. Charming, family-run hotel with
villages served by infrequent and invari-
clean, well-ventilated rooms (though they could use
ably slow public transport. a lick of paint). The same can be said for the shared
bathroom. 1
Juticalpa
Situated towards the southern end of the Eating
Valle de Catacamas, about 170km from
Tegucigalpa, JUTICALPA is a thriving, Juticalpa’s range of restaurants is also pretty
modest, though there’s a healthy profusion of
pleasant little provincial city, where
inexpensive comedores and street-food stalls
the streets are busy night and day with around Parque Banderas.
bustle and commerce. With a reasonable Fresh Juice and Fruit Next to Hotel
number of hotels and restaurants, it can Honduras. This friendly little café serves up
be a refreshing place to spend a few days. great breakfast and a range of different fruit juices.
The city’s focal point is the leafy Parque Fresh fruit juice L30.
Banderas, which includes a small pool Restaurante Tai Ka Lock On the Parque. Cheap
of rather disgruntled-looking turtles and cheerful Honduran-style Chinese dishes.
Mains L50.
– one suspects this is largely due to the
lack of water. The majority of hotels,
restaurants, banks, internet cafés and Moving on
other facilities are on the streets around By bus to: Catacamas (23 daily; 40min); La Ceiba
here. The general market stretches for (2 daily; 9hr); Tegucigalpa (20 daily; 2–3hr); Trujillo
a few blocks to the west, along Calle (daily 4am; 7hr).
Perulapan. When the town’s attrac-
tions have worn thin, the cinema at C 1, Monumento Nacional
Av 2–3 shows subtitled US releases.
El Boquerón
Twenty kilometres east of Juticalpa,
Arrival and information
MONUMENTO NACIONAL EL
By bus Juticalpa’s two bus terminals are just off BOQUERÓN, one of the last remaining
the highway on 1 Av SE, which leads straight to the tracks of dry tropical forest in
367
 Honduras, is home to a wide variety ties should you want to camp (free, unless you
of wildlife, including more than 250 have a guide with you). It is advisable to visit the
species of bird. COHDEFOR office in Juticalpa before setting out
(see p.367), as the trail can be hard to follow,
especially after heavy rainfall, and there are no
What to see and do rangers or information facilities once you reach the
park. You need to bring all your own food and water.
To see the forest properly, you’ll want
honduras

to hike the moderately strenuous main Catacamas

trail through the reserve. The trail
runs from where the bus drops you off CATACAMAS, midway along the Valle
near the Puente Boquerón bridge to a de Catacamas beneath the southern
point a few kilometres west of the main flanks of the Sierra de Agalta, is a
Olancho

entrance; the walk is manageable in one smaller version of Juticalpa. Even fewer
day if you get an early start. tourists visit here than come to that city
Follow the track starting on the left- – Catacamas is at the end of one of the
hand side of the Río Olancho – though paved roads through the region – which
it crosses over several times, so be no doubt contributes to the affable,
prepared to wade – and after about a small-town charm of the place. It does,
kilometre the path enters the gorge, however, have a more spectacular
eventually emerging onto the flood- setting than its larger neighbour: a short
plain at the other side. From here it is walk up to the Mirador de la Cruz,
around two more easy hours through fifteen minutes from the centre on the
level pastureland to the village of La northern side of town, gives superb
Avispa. Beyond the village, the path views over the town and valley.
loops steeply uphill and through the
cloudforest section of the park; you What to see and do
have a pretty good chance of seeing
The main reason for coming out this
some of the country’s elusive bird
far is to visit the Cuevas de Talgua
and animal life here, including mixed
(daily 9am–4pm; US$5). Located six
flocks of brightly coloured trogons
kilometres north of town on the banks
and quetzals that feed together at
of the Río Talgua, the caves are one of
fruiting trees. The reserve is also
the country’s foremost historical sites,
the only known Honduran location
thanks to the discovery made here of
of the white-eared ground sparrow,
a prehistoric burial ground featuring
fairly easily seen in the undergrowth.
hundreds of skeletons arranged in
Beyond the cloudforest the walk is
chambers deep underground. Though
downhill all the way, with the path
the burial ground itself is out of bounds
finally emerging a few kilometres later
to visitors, the rest of the site has been
on the highway at Tempisque, west of
developed for tourists, with a museum
the main entrance.
telling the tale of the finds and trails
leading through the caves. To get here,
Arrival and information take the local bus from Catacamas to
Arrival Monumento Nacional El Boquerón is Talgua, leaving town at 6am and 11am.
about halfway between Juticalpa and Catacamas. The last return departs Talgua at 1pm.
Any bus going between the two towns can
drop you near the start of the main trail, by the Arrival
Boquerón bridge. After you’re done trekking, you
can easily flag down buses to either place on the By bus Buses terminate four blocks south of
main highway. Catacamas’s Parque Central; the Parque itself,
Information The reserve is easily accessible as dominated by a giant ceiba tree, is a short walk
a day-trip from Juticalpa, though there are facili- away up a slight hill.
368
 in vines and ferns, cover the slopes up
Accommodation to about 2000m, where they give way to
Accommodation in Catacamas is very limited. a dwarf forest.
Those places that do exist are all located around In addition to the flora, the park’s
the Parque Central. isolation ensures a protected, secure
Colina Av SW, just off the corner of the Parque environment for a biologically diverse
T 799 4488. Colina is the best hotel in town,

honduras
range of mammals and birds, many of
with reasonably comfortable rooms set round a
them extremely rare. Tapirs, jaguars,
courtyard, all with bath, TV and fans. 2
Oriental T 799 4038. Almost next door to Colina,
ocelots, opossums and three types
Oriental is slightly cheaper and has a selection of of monkey are among the species of
basic but orderly rooms, some with private bath. 2 mammal recorded. More evident are the
birds, of which more than four hundred

The north coast

Eating species have been sighted. Along with
longer hikes, which require the assist-
Restaurante Jardín Oriental This is the better of ance of a guide (see below), easier
the two Chinese restaurants that stand side by side jaunts are available in the environs of
on the Parque. Mains L60.
the park, allowing you to hunt for all
these animals.
Directory
Exchange There are a few banks situated around Arrival and information
the park and in the streets just to the north.
Internet Access is available at a few places in town, Arrival The easiest points of entry for the park are
the best being the one right on the Parque Central. along the northern edge of the Sierra, via the small
Post office Is located just north of the Parque towns of Gualaco and San Esteban, which you can
Central. reach off Highway C-39 between Juticalpa and
Trujillo. The daily bus from Juticalpa (4am) passes
by both – just ask the driver to stop so you can hop
Moving on off; additional pick-ups from the market in Juticalpa
By bus to: Catacamas (23 daily; 40min); also make the trip.
Tegucigalpa (22 daily; 3–4hr). Information There’s no accommodation in the park
other than official camping spots, for which you’ll
Parque Nacional need to bring all equipment and supplies. Hiring a
guide is pretty much essential for hiking the difficult
Sierra de Agalta trails: ask at the COHDEFOR offices in Gualaco, San
Draped across the sweeping ranges of Esteban or Juticalpa (see p.367).
the Sierra de Agalta, the vast PARQUE
NACIONAL SIERRA DE AGALTA
shelters the most extensive stretch
of virgin cloudforest remaining in
Central America. Though the area The north
has been designated a protected area
since 1987, large stands of pine and coast
oak in the lower parts of the park have
nonetheless still been logged, and much Honduras’s north coast stretches for
of the land cleared for cattle pasture. some 300km along the azure fringes of
The higher reaches of the mountains, the Caribbean. A magnet for Hondurans
however (including Honduras’s and foreign tourists alike, the region
fourth highest peak, La Picucha), provides sun, sea and entertainment
are so remote that both vegetation in abundance, especially in the coastal
and wildlife have remained virtually towns of Tela, La Ceiba and Trujillo,
untouched. Here a typical cloudforest with their broad expanses of beach, clean
of oaks, liquidambar and cedar, draped warm waters, plentiful restaurants and
369
 buzzing nightlife. San Pedro Sula, the Pedro’s facilities rate alongside Teguci-
region’s major inland city and transport galpa, with an international airport,
hub, provides amenities of a strictly foreign consulates and a wide range of
urban kind. Dotted along the north hotels, restaurants and shopping outlets
coast between these main towns are a – indeed, thanks to its practical location
number of laid-back villages blessed and better transportation links, travel-
with unspoilt beaches. Populated by the
honduras

lers who stick to the north of the country

Garífuna people (decendants of African (as so many do) rarely need to make a
slaves and Carib people; see p.103), these visit south to the capital.
villages are often very much removed
from the rest of Honduran culture and What to see and do
society, and can feel like visiting an
The north coast

entirely different country. San Pedro’s reputation – it is more

When beach life loses its appeal, dangerous than the rest of the country,
there are several natural reserves to and its attractions are few and far
visit in the region. The national parks between – generally precedes it, causing
of Cusuco, Pico Bonito and Capiro y most tourists to get in and out as quickly
Calentura, whose virgin cloudforest as possible. While that may be wise,
shelters rare wildlife, offer hiking for those who stick around often shed their
all levels; the wetland and mangrove preconceptions very quickly, provided
swamps at Punta Sal and Cuero y they use a bit of common sense when
Salado require less exertion to explore. taking in the few sights to hand.
The region’s two dry seasons San Pedro’s centre is in the southwest
– December to April, and August to sector of the city. Running west from
September – are the best times to visit the Parque Barahona, Calle 1 is also
the north coast. Temperatures rarely known as Boulevard Morazán for
drop below 25–28°C, but the heat is the twelve blocks before it meets the
usually tempered by ocean breezes. Avenida Circunvalación ring road,
Transport is reasonably good, with which separates the city centre from San
frequent buses along the fast, paved Pedro’s wealthier residential districts.
highway that links the main coastal Most of what you’ll want to see in the
towns; as usual, reaching the remoter city is within walking distance of the
villages and national parks requires centre; the city’s main general market
some forward planning. is towards the southeastern edge of this
area. The streets south of the market and
San Pedro Sula over the old railway track can get rough,
The country’s second city and driving and although foreigners are unlikely to
economic force, SAN PEDRO SULA be targeted, neither are really places to
sprawls across the fertile Valle de Sula be wandering around after dark.
(“Valley of the Birds” in Usula dialect)
at the foot of the Merendón mountain Parque Barahona
chain, just an hour from the coast. Flat San Pedro’s central plaza, the large
and uninspiring to look at, and for Parque Barahona, is the city centre’s
most of the year uncomfortably hot and focus, teeming with vendors, shoeshine
humid, this is a city for getting business boys and moneychangers. The Parque’s
done, rather than sightseeing. It’s also the centrepiece is a large fountain with
transport hub for northern and western bridges and bronze statues of washer-
Honduras, meaning a visit here is women beating their clothes on the
usually unavoidable, even if only to pass rocks. On its eastern edge, the colonial-
through. On a more positive note, San style Catedral Municipal, completed
370
 
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 the colonial period continue the theme. large, rambling establishment popular with travel-
Probably the best regional museum lers. The choice of rooms ranges from basic with
outside the capital. shared bath to reasonably spacious options with
large beds, private bath, a/c and TV. Each grade of
room costs the same, but ask to see a selection of
Arrival and information rooms, as quality within each grade varies consid-
erably. Internet access available for guests. 4
By air Aeropuerto Internacional Ramón Villeda
honduras

Palmira C 6, Av 6–7 SO T 557 6522. Ramshackle

Morales, the north coast’s point of arrival for both
place that could do with a bit of decoration, but is
domestic and international flights, lies 12km
very safe and clean enough. There’s a complicated
southeast of the city. There is no public transport
pricing structure based on the presence or absence
into the city from the airport itself, though buses
of fan, a/c, TV and number of beds, but all in all
do run past on the main highway. However, this is
rates are on the cheap side. 2 –4
The north coast

quite a hike from the airport. A taxi, an altogether

Real Av 6, C 6–7 T550 7929, Ehotelreal2002
better option, will cost around L150 from the airport
@yahoo.com. One of the best-value options in
into town.
the city. The communal courtyard is beautifully
By bus The majority of intercity and international decorated with local crafts and climbing plants, and
buses to San Pedro Sula arrive at the Terminal the en-suite rooms are large, with TV and a choice
Metropolitana de Autobuses, 5km south of the town of fan or a/c. 4
centre. The city buses are dangerous (see below), San José Av 6, C 5–6 SO T557 1208. One of the
so take taxis from the terminal to the centre; they city’s better budget hotels, offering clean, good-
should cost no more than L50. sized rooms, which are simply furnished if a little
Tour operators There are numerous tour agencies dark. All rooms are en suite and have fans. 2
in San Pedro Sula; Sula Tours, based in the Gran Tamarindo C 9, Av 10–11 NO, in Barrio
Hotel Sula on the northern side of the Parque (T545 Los Andes T 557 0123, W www
2600), do a number of different tours far and wide. .tamarindohostel.com. This friendly Honduran-run
Travel agent Transmundo de Sula, Av 5, C 4 NO hostel, about a 5min drive from the centre, is a
(T 550 1140). step above the in-town accommodation, with
spacious dorms full of character, clean bathrooms,
City transport a kitchen and a swimming pool. They also run
tours to the surrounding area. Private rooms
Buses City buses (L5) exist but are not recom- are very nice, but a little over-priced. Dorms 3 ,
mended. Apart from the fact that they are rooms 6
hopelessly complicated, they are also dangerous Terraza Av 6, C 4–5 SO T550 3108. Fairly priced,
and are frequent targets for armed robberies. It’s safe and convenient for the centre of town. Rooms
quicker and safer to get a taxi. If you do decide to all have bath and hot water (some also have
chance it, check at the Metropolitana de Autobuses a/c), and the restaurant downstairs serves good
to see about bus routes and stops. breakfast and dinner specials. 3
Taxis Taxis cruise around all over the place. All
are licensed but none have meters, so make sure
Eating
you settle on a price before setting off. It should
be about L20 for travel within the centre, and As you’d expect in such a business-oriented
around L100 to go from the centre to the edge city, there’s a good selection of places to eat.
of town. The more down-to-earth places are found in the
centre, while the stretch of Avenida Circunva-
Accommodation lación south of Calle 1 – the so-called “Zona Viva”
– is the place to go if you want to treat yourself
San Pedro is the second largest city in Honduras to a splurge.
and one of the fastest growing in Latin America. Café Americano On the western corner of the
As a result, there is a good array of safe budget Parque Central on C 2 SO. Modern Starbucks-style
options, most of which are towards the southern coffee house with good mochas, cappuccinos
side of town along Avenida 6. It’s not advisable and even frappuccinos to recharge your batteries.
to be tempted by any of the super cheap hotels Coffee L20.
– most aren’t secure and can be dangerous. Café Pamplona On the Parque Barahona.
Gran Hotel San Pedro C 3, Av 1–2 SO T550 Always crowded with locals, this place has
1655, [email protected]. A kitsch 1970s decor, an extensive menu (mains L60)
372
and decent coffee. The conch soup is a delicious
house speciality. Open ‘til 8pm. Shopping
Café Skandia In the Gran Hotel Sula on the
Books The cigar shop in the Gran Hotel Sula has a
northern side of the Parque Central. A/c and open
small assortment of English-language fiction, books
24hr, the Skandia is something of a San Pedro insti-
on Honduras and US magazines and newspapers.
tution, offering tasty sandwiches, light meals and
Markets The Mercado Guamilito, Av 9, C 6–7 NO,
snacks, all for around L80. A great place for lunch.
is an indoor market with numerous stalls selling

honduras
Pizzería Italia C 1, Av 7 NO. Cosy little place
hammocks, ceramics, leatherwork and wooden
serving good pizza (around L80) and a small
goods; gentle bargaining should get you better
selection of pasta dishes (around L100).
prices. A couple of shops on the Calle Peatonal,
Res Fung Yim Av 6, C 4–5 SO. San Pedro Sula has
just off the Parque Central, sell similar stuff, though
an abundance of Chinese restaurants, and this is
prices are higher and the range not as wide. The
one of the best, not least for its convenient location
Mercado Municipal, centred between Av 4–5 SO

The north coast

near a lot of the budget hotels. The huge portions
and C 5–6 SO and along the old rail track, has stalls
will set you back no more than L120.
spilling onto the streets for several blocks. You can
Terraza In the Terraza hotel. The location – in a
find a bit of everything here. For more targeted
hotel – shouldn’t put you off. The menu includes a
shopping options, numerous malls are dotted
range of Honduran and western cuisine; the dinner
around the city centre.
special is usually very good and never more than
L100.
Directory
Drinking and nightlife Airlines Atlantic, at Av 10, C 3–4 NO (T 552 7270)
or at the airport (T668 7310); Isleña/TACA, at
Like most big cities San Pedro Sula has a range of Parque Benito Juárez (T558 1604) or at the airport
evening entertainment. All of the action is out in the (T668 3292); Sosa, at C 1, Av 7–8 SO (T 550
Zona Viva, where a group of bars and clubs around 6545) or at the airport (T668 3223). American
Avenida 16 get very lively after dark. Take taxis out (T553 3526), Continental (T557 4141) and Delta
there. In general, the clubs are safer than the bars, (T550 8188) are all at the airport.
which can get very dangerous. Some are fine, but Car rental Molinari, in the Gran Hotel Sula on the
none is particularly special. northern side of the Parque Central (T533 2639);
Amnesia On the corner of Av 15 and C 7. The most Omega, Av 3, C 3–4 NO (T552 7626).
European-style club in the city, with the music Consulates Belize, on the road to Puerto Cortés
almost always a mix of Euro and Latin beats, and (T551 6247); El Salvador, Av 11, 5–6 NO (T 557
the crowd made up of rich locals. Things get going 5591); Germany C 1, 8–9 SO (T553 1244); Mexico,
every night around 10pm and keep on till the early C 2, Av 20–21 SO (T552-3672); Netherlands, Av
morning. 15, C 7–8 (T557 1815); Nicaragua, Av 5, Av 4–5
Confetti’s Av Circunvalación, C 14–15 NO. Friendly SO (T550 0813); Spain, Av 2, C 3–4 NE (T553
discoteca that plays a combination of Latino pop 2480); UK, C 2, Av 18–19 NO (T550 2337); US, in
and Euro dance music almost every evening. the Banco Atlántida building on the northern side of
Karaoki Club C 11, Av 14–15. One of the more the Parque (T558 1580).
popular hang-outs for the younger crowd, playing a Exchange Banco Atlántida has a number of
large selection of Latin and European songs every branches downtown, including one on the Parque
night. Central with an ATM; there are several other banks
along C 2 between Av 5 and 6.
Entertainment Internet There are countless internet cafés in
town. Just off the Parque next to Café Americano is
Centro Cultural Sampedrano C 3, Av 3–4 NO Diosita.net, which has good, cheap connections and
T 553 3911. This cultural centre regularly hosts decent international phone rates. Llamadas, on Av
concerts and plays; the building also houses the 4, C 3–4 SO, one floor up from street level, also has
public library. a quick connection.
Cinema There are two modern multi-screen Medical care Hospital Centro Médico Betesda, Av
cinemas in town: Multicines Plaza, at Av 10 & C 4 11, C 11–12 NO.
NO, and Cine Géminis, at C 1 & Av 12 NO – both Post office C 9, Av 3 SO (Mon–Fri 7.30am–8pm,
are within easy walking distance of the centre and Sat 7.30am–12.30pm).
show new Hollywood films and the occasional Latin Telephones Hondutel, on the corner of C 5 and Av
American offering. 5, is open 24hr.
373
 Moving on orange brackets holding the blossoms.
Studies carried out in the park in the
By air to: Belize City (with Atlantic & TACA; 1990s revealed the existence of at least
55min); Guanaja (with Atlantic & Sosa; 2hr 50min);
seventeen species of plants not previ-
Guatemala City (with TACA; 1hr 10min); La Ceiba
(with Atlantic, Isleña/TACA & Sosa; 30min); Managua
ously recorded in Honduras.
(with Atlantic & TACA; 2hr 25min); Panama City, To see as much as possible, the best
honduras

via San Salvador (with TACA; 5hr 55min); Roatán plan is to arrive in the afternoon, camp
(with Atlantic & Sosa; 2hr 35min); San José (with overnight and walk the park’s good
TACA; 2hr 15min); San Salvador (with TACA; 50min); trails early in the morning. Four trails,
Tegucigalpa (with Atlantic, Isleña/TACA & Sosa; ranging between 1km and 2.5km, have
45min); Utila (with Atlantic & Sosa; 2hr 15min). been laid out among the lower sections
By bus to: Comayagüela (14 daily; 3–4hr); Copán of cloudforest (there is no access to
The north coast

Ruinas (11 daily; 3hr); Gracias (1 daily; 5hr); the highest, steepest sections of the
Guatemala City (2 daily; 8hr); La Ceiba (22 daily;
reserve), taking you through a hushed
3hr); La Entrada (25 daily; 1–2hr); Managua (1
daily; 12hr); Ocotopeque (5 daily; 5hr); Puerto
world of dense, dripping, multilayered
Cortés (70 daily; 1hr); Pulhapanzak and Lago de vegetation. If you’re incredibly lucky,
Yojoa (14 daily; 1hr 30min); San Salvador (2 daily; you might spot the reserve’s namesake
6hr); Santa Rosa de Copán (6 daily; 3hr); Siguate- cusuco (armadillo), as well as monkeys
peque (14 daily; 3hr); Tela (18 daily; 1hr 30min); and possibly even a jaguar. The dazzling
Tegucigalpa (30 daily; 4hr); Trujillo (18 daily; range of birdlife includes quetzals, best
5–6hr). All services listed here leave from the main spotted from April to June, along with
Terminal Metropolitana Autobuses, south of town. trogons, kites and woodpeckers.

parque nacional el Arrival and information

cusuco
Arrival The park is not too hard to reach from San
If the charms of San Pedro Sula rub Pedro, through the trip is time-consuming. Take
off quickly, as they may well do, a a westbound bus to the small town of Cofradía
short journey out of the city to one of (buses to and from La Entrada or Santa Rosa pass
the country’s best national parks can through), the main point of access, 18km southwest
transport you into an entirely different of San Pedro off Highway CA-4. You’ll have to wait
world. Some 20km west of San Pedro in here for onward transport (in the form of a pick-up)
the Sierra del Merendón, the stunning to the village of Buenos Aires, 5km beyond which
you’ll find the park’s visitors’ centre. Another option
PARQUE NACIONAL EL CUSUCO
is to rent a car in San Pedro (see p.373) for listings)
(daily 8am–4.30pm; US$15) supports an
– a 4WD can make the whole journey in about two
abundant range of animal and plant life, hours, depending on the state of the road.
quite a bit of which is rare or threatened. Information Cusuco is managed by the Fundación
Ecologista, which has offices in San Pedro Sula at
What to see and do 12 Av NO, C 1–2 (T557 6598, Efundeco@netsys
.hn). Information leaflets are usually available, and
The lower reaches of the park have long they can also advise on getting to the reserve. The
been settled by humans and were heavily park’s visitors’ centre has displays on the park’s
logged during the 1950s; the mixed pine wildlife and trail maps.
and broadleaf forest you see today is
secondary growth. At around 1800m Accommodation
the cloudforest begins, its dense oaks
The visitors’ centre has a designated campsite,
and liquidambars – which tower to 40m but it’s only a place to pitch a tent – there are no
in some places – stacked over avocados services. Alternatively, there is a small house for
and palms, and supporting mosses, rent with kitchen facilities (reserve at the Fundación
vines, orchids and numerous species of Ecologista office in San Pedro Sula, US$10 per
heliconias, recognizable by the red or person with a minimum of four).
374
Puerto Cortés By bus to: Corinto, for Guatemala (30 daily; 4hr);
Omoa (42 daily; 1hr). Buses leave from the Trans-
North of San Pedro Sula, Highway portes Citral terminal, which is on C 4 around the
CA-5 runs through the flat agricultural corner from the Citul terminal.
lands and lush tropical scenery of the
Sula valley. After 60km the four-lane Omoa
highway reaches the coast at PUERTO Spreading inland from a deep bay at

honduras
CORTÉS, Honduras’s main port. There’s the point where the mountains of the
nothing here to entice, and you’ll likely Sierra de Omoa meet the Caribbean, the
pass through only to change buses en fishing village of OMOA has become
route to Omoa or to hop aboard a boat increasingly popular in recent years,
for Belize. with travellers coming here for total

The north coast

rest and relaxation. Once a strategically
Arrival important location in the defence of the
Spanish colonies against marauding
By bus Three companies run buses between San
British pirates, today the village dozes
Pedro Sula and Puerto Cortés, including the reliable
Citul, who run the hour-long trip every 30min
lethargically under the heat of the
between 6am and 6pm. The Citul terminal in Puerto Caribbean sun.
Cortés is a block north of the main plaza at Av 4
and C 4. What to see and do
Omoa’s one outstanding sight, the
Accommodation
restored Fortaleza de San Fernando
If you do stay here, be prepared to pay for it – real de Omoa (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat &
budget accommodation is non-existent. Sun 9am–5pm; US$2), stands amid
Hotel Mr. Ggeerr T665 4333. C 9, Av 1–2. The tropical greenery in mute witness to the
hotel with the strangest name in Honduras, is village’s colourful history. Now isolated
your best bet. Rooms all have a/c and en-suite a kilometre from the coast, having
bathroom. 4 been beached as the sea has receded
over the centuries, the triangular fort
Eating was originally intended to protect the
port of Puerto Barrios in Guatemala.
There is also little choice in terms of places to eat.
Work began in 1759 but was never fully
Repostería Plata Av 3 and C 2. Popular with locals
completed due to a combination of
for their buffet meals, this place has the added
advantage of being open on Sun, when all other
inefficiency and a labour shortage. The
restaurants are closed. Mains from L60. steadily weakening Spanish authorities
then suffered the ignominy of witnessing
the fortress be temporarily occupied
Moving on
by British and Miskito military forces
By boat There are ferries to Big Creek and in October 1779. A small museum
Placencia in Belize (see box below). on site tells the story of the fort and

into Belize by ferry

In theory, two companies (Express and Water Taxi) run boats between Belize
and Honduras, although in reality the timetables are inconsistent and boats rarely
leave on time. When running, both companies’ boats leave from Barra La Laguna,
about 3km southeast of Puerto Cortés (take any bus going to Omoa and ask to be
dropped). The Express boat is scheduled to leave Monday at 11:30am, and the
Water Taxi on Monday and Tuesday at noon. Both go to Big Creek and Placencia
(US$50 one way; 3hr).

375
 displays a selection of military parapher- budget place with comfortable rooms as well as
nalia including cannons and period camping, hammocks (both US$3 per person) and
weaponry. dorms; they also have kayaks and bikes, a kitchen
and laundry facilities. Dorms 1 , rooms 3
The narrow village beach, lined
with colourful fishing boats, offers
stunning views west across the curve Eating
of the bay and the mountain backdrop.
honduras

The best places for meals are the champas (restau-

At weekends hordes of day-trippers rants) that sit right along the seafront. They all
turn up and it’s often too crowded for serve up the same kind of fare, a mix of Honduran
comfort. Better swimming can be had and European dishes. All are informal and you
by walking five minutes or so out of should expect to never pay more than L80 for an
the village in either direction, while average meal.
The north coast

fifteen minutes around the headland to Champa Johnson The best of the champas along
the east lies a much wider and usually the beach, with a pleasant setting and great service.
empty expanse of beach. The seafood is recommended but wildly expensive.
Regular mains from L60. Seafood from L200.
Tatiana Half hotel, half restaurant, on the beach. This
Arrival and information place serves up a range of meat dishes, including
some very tasty pork chops. Mains from L80.
By bus The buses between Puerto Cortés and
Corinto pass the southern end of the village at
a crossroads. From here a road runs 2km to the Moving on
beach (walking is pretty much the only method
of transport), where you’ll find most of the action. By bus to: Corinto, for Guatemala (42 daily; 1hr);
Most services can be found on this main road. Puerto Cortés (42 daily; 1hr).
Exchange Banco de Occidente can advance cash
on your cards but has no ATM. Tela
Internet Alta Velocidad, next door to Banco de
Sitting midway around the Bahía de Tela,
Occidente, has the town’s best connection and
charges about L20.
surrounded by sweeping beaches, TELA
has a near-perfect setting. In the past,
the town has suffered from a reputation
Accommodation
for unpredictability and violence, but
Rising numbers of foreign tourists have led to the a pilot force of bilingual tourist police
opening of a handful of reasonably comfortable (now being imitated throughout the
places to stay, but the range is still far behind more country) is substantially cleaning up the
notable towns along the north coast. town’s image, although things can still
Fisherman Along the beach road T658 9224. get rowdy at weekends. Whether you
Another good budget option right on the beach.
choose to partake in the nightlife or not,
The quality of rooms varies: some have had recent
decoration and some don’t see much light at all, so the wealth of fantastic natural reserves
make sure you view a few before deciding. 2 – including Punta Sal – within minutes
Roli’s Place Along the main road about of the town makes Tela well worth a
200m from the sea T658 9082. An excellent visit. Be aware that Tela is one of the

into Guatemala: Corinto

Moving on from Omoa to Guatemala is an excruciatingly slow journey along the
notoriously bumpy road leading southwest to Corinto, 2km from the border (buses
every 20min 8am–4pm). Corinto has its own migración (daily 8am–5.30pm). Pick-
ups shuttle to and from the border, from where you can catch a minibus (every
30min) into Guatemala; there’s usually an exit fee of US$1–2 charged. Minibuses
pass though the village of Entre Ríos, for Guatemalan migración, to Puerto Barrios,
an hour from the Honduran border.

376
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main destinations for Hondurans during in either direction you should be able to
Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) and have one entirely to yourself.
booking several weeks, if not months,
ahead is advisable for that period. Arrival and information

What to see and do By bus Most local bus services, including the half-
hourly buses to and from La Ceiba, use the terminal
Today’s Tela is a product of the banana on the corner of Av 9 and C 9 NE. Buses to the
industry. In the late nineteenth century surrounding villages use the terminal two blocks
north at C 11 and Av 8 NE.
United Fruit built a company town – Tela
Tour operators Garífuna Tours, C 9, Av 4–5 SO
Nueva – here, on the west bank of the Río
(T448 2904, Wwww.garifunatours.com), run trips
Tela; the old town became known as Tela to Punta Sal and Punta Izopo (US$18 per person)
Vieja. These distinctions still stand. The as well as the “EcoPass” tour, which encompasses
old town, which lies about 2km north visits to both places plus Pico Bonito for US$58.
of the highway and two blocks from Tourist information The tourist office is in the
the beach on the east bank of the river, municipal building off the southeast corner of the
encompasses the Parque Central and Parque Central (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 8am–noon;
main shopping area. Five blocks west Wwww.tela-honduras.com).
from the Parque Central is the Río Tela,
and on the other side of the river, Tela Accommodation
Nueva. A fifteen-minute stroll covers
practically everything there is to see (not Many of Tela’s older hotels are quite run-down.
There are, however, a number of newer, better–
a lot). However, it’s the beaches that most
value places opening up as the town becomes
people come for; those in Tela Vieja,
more of a fixture on the backpacker trail. Many of
though wide, are more crowded than these tend to get busy at weekends, when it pays
the stretch of pale sand in front of the to book ahead.
hotel Villas Telamar in Tela Nueva. Even Bertha’s Av 2, C 6–7 T448 1009. Rooms are
better beaches can be found along the bay spotlessly clean and most have en-suite bathrooms.
outside town – if you walk far enough A good option if elsewhere is full. 3
377
 Boarding House Sara Eastern end of C 11 dishes, including an array of conch-based meals.
opposite the bus station T 448 1477. Even Pleasant beachside surroundings mean you might
though it’s falling apart at the seams, cheap want to spend a little time reading a title from the
rates and welcoming English-speaking owners book exchange. Mains from L80.
ensure this option is often full. Shared bathrooms Mamma Mia! Av 4, C 9–10, a block west of the
only, but its beachside location is only a short Parque Central. Very friendly Italian-owned pasta
stagger from the local disco. Reductions for spot with some seafood and meat dishes as well as
honduras

longer stays. 1 a wide range of breakfast options. Doubles as a bar

Mango On the corner of C 8 and Av 5, one block and internet café. Mains from L60.
south of the Parque Central T448 0338, Wwww Pizzería Rome Av 2, C 8–9 SO. Promotional offers
.mangocafe.net. A travellers’ favourite, the cheaper on pizza (L80–200) and cheap pasta dishes mean
rooms here come with fan, while those a notch this is a popular hangout for budget travellers.
better have a/c and TV. Rooms are clean and there’s Mains from L80.
The north coast

a small communal terrace, but overall prices are a Tuty’s C 9, Av 4–5, just off the Parque Central.
bit high. 3 A great breakfast spot, with excellent juices and
Mar Azul C 11, Av 3–4 T448 2313 This cheap but a delicious array of sticky buns and sweet cakes
slightly run-down hotel might not be to everyone’s (from L20). Opens at 6am.
taste: the beds can be uncomfortable and the
bathrooms are prone to being out of order. Take
a look around before deciding, as the rooms vary Drinking and nightlife
a lot. 1
Tela has a thriving nightlife, at weekends at least,
Posada del Sol C 8, Av 3–4 SO T448 2111.
when the bars along Calle 11 behind the beach host
Rustic posada with pleasant, if basic, en-suite
crowds listening to salsa, reggae and mainstream
rooms. There’s an outdoor seating area in a nice
dance music. Some of these places on this strip
garden, making this one of the better budget
don’t have names (and some change names every
options in town. 1
few month), so you’ll just have to take a stroll and
Sinai At the southern end of Av 5 T448 1486.
see what’s going on.
Friendly, well-run place with tasteful en-suite
Delfín Telamar at Villas Telamar 1km west of
rooms as well as rooms with shared bathrooms. It's
a bit of a walk from the beach, but it’s well worth town, in Tela Nueva. This is the place to go for a
it. 2 –3 tranquil drink whilst enjoying the Caribbean
sea breezes. It’s also home to the Guarumas
Disco Bar, which is a lively spot open most
Eating nights till 11pm.
Iguana’s Sports Bar & Discotec Av 2, C 10–11,
Tela has an interesting mix of places to eat,
up by the bridge in the northwest of town. This
with foreign-run restaurants that cater to the
lively disco really gets going at weekends and is a
steady flow of European and North American
popular hangout for locals and travellers alike.
visitors competing with locally owned seafood
Mango (see above). The hotel organizes regular
places. One staple that shouldn’t be missed is
evenings of Garífuna music and dancing on the
the delicious pan de coco (coconut bread) sold by
grounds.
Garífuna women and children on the beach and
around town.
Auto Pollo Al Carbón At the western end of C 11, Directory
by the bridge. Informal place on the doorstep of the
Caribbean Sea. They serve chicken and not much Exchange There is a Unibanc ATM on the southern
else, but in terms of value for money, you can’t do side of the park. Banco de Occidente, on the
much better. Mains from L40. eastern side of the Parque, does cash advances,
Los Angeles C 9, Av 1–2. Four blocks west of the while Banco Atlántida, on the corner of Av 4 and
Parque Central. The huge servings of Chinese food C 9, can change traveller’s cheques.
here are easily big enough to serve three people. If Internet Espresso Americano, on the southeastern
you’re looking to convert your money into as much corner of the Parque, has a good, cheap connec-
food as possible, this is the place to come. Mains tion (L10).
from L60. Post office At Av 4, C 7–8 SO, two blocks south of
Luces del Norte On the corner of C 11 the Parque Central.
and Av 5. Popular with foreign tourists, Telephones The Hondutel office is next to the post
Luces del Norte offers a good range of seafood office.
378
 hour, from 6am to 5pm. From Tornabé
Moving on pick-ups run to Miami at 6.30am and
By bus to: La Ceiba (42 daily; 2hr 30min); San 12.30pm Monday to Saturday, with
Pedro Sula (8 daily; 2hr). To get to San Pedro Sula returns at 8am and 2pm. Accommo-
you can also get a taxi out to the highway south of dation in both towns is limited. Local
town and flag down one of the buses coming from families may rent out extremely basic

honduras
La Ceiba. rooms if you ask around, or you’re left
with expensive, resort-style hotels.
Around Tela
Even if you’re quickly bored with Tela Parque Nacional Jeanette
itself, there is an abundance of places to Kawas (Punta Sal)
visit in the nearby area. These include The Parque Nacional Jeanette Kawas

The north coast

the Garífuna villages along the bay (daily 6am–4pm; US$3), commonly
on pristine beaches on either side of known as Punta Sal, is a wonder-
town, the Punta Sal wildlife reserve, fully diverse reserve encompassing
and Lancetilla, 5km south of town and mangrove swamps, coastal lagoons,
probably the finest botanical reserve in wetlands, coral reef and tropical forest,
Latin America. To get to any of these which together provide habitats for an
places, you can take taxis or rely on local extraordinary range of animal, bird and
buses, but renting a bike is probably the plant life. Jeanette Kawas, for whom the
most enjoyable way to get around; ask reserve is named, was instrumental in
at Garífuna Tours (see p.377) for rental obtaining protected status for the land,
information. in the face of intense local opposition;
her murder, in February 1995, has never
Garífuna villages been solved.
The Garífuna communities of the Lying to the west of Tela, curving
north coast have an entirely different along the bay to the headland of Punta
history and culture from the Mestizo Sal (176m), the reserve covers three
people who represent the majority of lagoons: Laguna de los Micos, on the
Hondurans. The villages, located on park’s eastern side; Laguna Tisnachí,
quiet and expansive stretches of beach, in the centre; and the oceanfront
are an interesting getaway for a few Laguna El Diamante, on the western
hours. Weekends are the best time to side of the headland. More than one
visit them, when people congregate hundred species of bird are present,
to perform the traditional, haunting including herons and storks, with
and melodic drum-driven rhythms of seasonal migratory visitors bumping
Garífuna music. up the numbers; animals found in the
Heading west from Tela, a dirt road reserve include howler and white-
edges the bay between the seafront and faced monkeys, wild pigs, jaguars and,
the Laguna de los Micos, which forms in the marine sections, manatees and
the eastern edge of Punta Sal (see below). marine turtles. Boat trips along the Río
Seven kilometres along this road is the Ulúa and the canals running through
sleepy village of Tornabé, and, beyond the reserve offer a superb opportunity
that, Miami, which is set on a fabulous to view the wildlife at close quarters.
stretch of beach at the mouth of the Where the headland curves up to the
lagoon. Though Tornabé has a few brick- north, the land rises slightly to Punta
built houses, Miami consists of nothing Sal; a trail over the point leads to small,
but traditional palm-thatched huts. pristine beaches at either side.
Buses run to Tornabé from the eastern It’s possible to visit parts of Punta Sal
end of Calle 10 in Tela every hour on the independently – you can rent a boat
379
 in Miami (see above) to explore the to a cosmopolitan mix of inhabitants,
Laguna de los Micos and surrounding including a large Garífuna community,
area – though most people opt to join but it’s the night that’s really celebrated
the trips organized by Garífuna Tours here, with visitors and locals gathering
(see p.377). You could also hike the every night to take part in the city’s
scenic eight kilometres from Miami to vibrant dance scene.
the headland along the beach.
honduras

Ceiba, as it’s generally known, owes

its existence to the banana industry:
Jardín Botánico de the Vaccaro Brothers (later Standard
Lancetilla Fruit and now Dole) first laid planta-
The extensive grounds of the Jardín tions in the area in 1899 and set up their
Botánico de Lancetilla (Mon–Fri company headquarters in town in 1905.
The north coast

7.30am–3pm, Sat & Sun 8am–3pm; Although fruit is no longer shipped out
US$6), 5km south of Tela, started through La Ceiba, the plantations are
life in 1925 as a United Fruit species still important to the local economy,
research and testing station, and over with crops of pineapple and African
time has grown into one of the largest palm now as significant as bananas.
collections of fruit and flowering trees,
palms, hardwoods and tropical plants in What to see and do
the world. There are also 365 recorded
species of bird. Guided tours of the Most things of interest to visitors lie
arboretum and birdwatching tours are within a relatively small area of the city,
available, and visitors are also free to around the shady and pleasant Parque
wander at will along the marked trails; Central, with its busts of Honduran
maps are available at the visitors’ centre historical heroes. The unremark-
at the entrance to the park. A small able whitewashed and powder-blue
swimming hole in the Lancetilla River Cathedral sits on the Parque’s southeast
is at the end of one of the trails, and can corner. Running north from the Parque
make for a refreshing break. almost to the seafront, Avenida San
To get to Lancetilla, take a San Pedro Isidro, Avenida Atlántida and Avenida
Sula-bound bus from Tela for a couple 14 de Julio frame the main commercial
of kilometres to the signposted turn- district, with shops, banks, a couple of
off; ask the driver to drop you. From supermarkets and the main municipal
here, the park is a further 3km. There’s market. For an interesting five-minute
a comedor and a small hostel (3 –4 ) diversion, stroll a block west of the
at the visitors’ centre; beds should be Parque to the Oficinas del Ferrocarril
reserved on T 448 1740. Nacional, planted with tropical vegeta-
tion and dotted with museum-piece
La Ceiba train carriages, many dating from the
Some 190km east along the coast from days of the peak of the banana trade.
San Pedro Sula, steamy LA CEIBA, All the beaches within the city limits
the lively capital of the department are, sadly, too polluted and dirty for
of Atlántida, is the gateway to the Bay even the most desperate. Better by far is
Islands. Though the town is completely to head east to the much cleaner beaches
bereft of architectural interest and its a few kilometres out of town (see p.384).
sandy beaches are strewn with garbage, Calle 1, in the northwest end of town
it does at least enjoy a remarkable setting near the seafront, extends east from
at the steep slopes of the Cordillera the old dock and over the river estuary
Nombre de Dios. Bustling and self- into Barrio La Isla, a quieter residential
assured by day, La Ceiba is also home district, mainly home to Garífuna.
380
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The north coast honduras

381
 Museum of Butterflies and
Accommodation
Insects
About a kilometre south of the plaza is Given La Ceiba’s status as both a provincial and a
the private Museum of Butterflies and party centre, it comes as no surprise that there’s a
Insects (Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 1–4pm; range of budget places to stay. The only problem
Etapa 2, Casa G-12, C Escuela Inter- will be in deciding whether you want to be near the
centre or closer to the nightlife along Calle 1. Prices
honduras

nacional, Colonia El Sauce; US$1.35;

inevitably tend to rise around Carnaval time in May,
W www.hondurasbutterfly.com), where when reserving ahead becomes essential.
over twelve thousand specimens from Amsterdam 2001 1 C, Av Barahona, Barrio La
68 countries are on view, though almost Isla T442 2292. Dutch-run hotel, just up from
three-quarters are native species. Displays the beach. Dorms are dilapidated but rooms are
explain trapping techniques, and there adequate, some with bathroom. It’s run down, but
The north coast

are videos in English and Spanish. cheap enough for a brief stay. Dorms 1 , rooms 2
Banana Republic Av República, C 12–13 T 441
9404. Once the heart of the backpacker scene
Arrival and information in La Ceiba, Banana Republic is now starting
to show its age but is still a decent option. The
By air Aeropuerto Internacional Golosón is 9km
rooms are much better than the dorms; the less
from the centre, off the main highway west to San
said about the shared bathroom the better.
Pedro Sula. There’s no local transport into town
Dorms 1 , rooms 4
from the airport, but a taxi into the centre should
Caribe C 5, Av San Isidro–Atlántida T443 1857.
cost no more than L100.
Caribe is perfectly acceptable if other places in
By boat The ferries to and from Roatán and Utila
town are full. There are both dorms and private
in the Bay Islands use the Muralla de Cabotaje
rooms; the dorms are very basic, with little ventila-
municipal dock, about 5km east of the city. A tion or light, and the shared bathroom doesn’t stay
shared taxi should usually cost L120 per taxi (4 clean for long. Dorms 1 , rooms 2
people) to the pier and L40 per person from it. Las Guacamayas Av Colon, C 11–12
By bus Long-distance and local buses arrive at T406 8198. Extremely clean and full of
the main terminal, 2km west of the centre; taxis to character, this hostel offers homely dorms, a patio
downtown, usually shared, charge L15 per person. overlooking the street, TV area, kitchen, laundry
Local buses also run into town and will cost about L5. service and free internet. It’s a real bargain. There
Tour operators Several companies offer tours to are no private rooms, only dorms. 2
the surrounding area and further afield. Recom- Rotterdam Beach C 1, Av Barahona, Barrio La Isla
mended are Garífuna Tours, at the northern end of T440 0321. Next door to Amsterdam 2001, and
Av San Isidro (T440 3252, Wwww.garifunatours certainly preferable. The rooms all have a certain
.com); La Moskitia Ecoaventuras, C 1, Av 14 de smell (not bad, just a bit different) to them, so
Julio–Av Atlántida (T440 2124, Wwww.honduras take a look around before deciding. Good location
.com/moskitia); and Jungle River Tours, based at though, right in the heart of Zona Viva. 2
the Banana Republic Guesthouse, Av República, San Carlos Av San Isidro, C 5–6 T 443 0330.
C 12–13 (T 440 1268). Well-run and popular travellers’ stronghold set in
Tourist information There is a rather lacklustre the heart of town, with a selection of simple but
tourist office on C 8 one block east of the Parque clean and safe rooms, all with fans. Located above
Central. a bakery, so you’ll be woken by the scent of freshly
Travel agent Transmundo, at Av San Isidro, C 9–10. baked bread. 2

Carnaval in la ceiba
The most exciting time to be in La Ceiba is during Carnaval, a weeklong bash
held every May to celebrate the city’s patron saint, San Isidro. Dances and street
events in various barrios around town culminate in an afternoon parade on the
third Saturday of the month. The 200,000 or so partygoers who attend Carnaval
every year flock between the street events and the clubs on Calle 1 in the Zona
Viva, where the dancing continues until dawn. Book accommodation well ahead for
Carnaval time.
382
 resident expats have helped to create a buoyant
Eating atmosphere. Night action takes place along C 1,
which runs parallel to the seafront. Nicknamed
The range of restaurants in La Ceiba is disap-
the “Zona Viva” due to its preponderance of bars
pointing for such a big city, with most of the central
and clubs, the area hums most nights of the week,
choices being cheap comedores serving similar
though weekends are really explosive, with a
unhealthy menus of largely fried foods. Heading out
profusion of places to drink and get down. Just

honduras
to the beach things improve slightly, although prices
have a stroll down the street to see what’s going
are predictably higher. on and where the crowds are. Outside of the Zona
La Casa De La Barbacoa C 12, two blocks east Viva, Expatriate’s Bar and Grill is a good place for
of Av 14 de Julio. Great barbecue place run out of a an evening drink.
local Honduran–American’s home, with tables and La Casona On the corner of C 4 and Av Pedro
chairs out on the street. Huge dishes of meat will Nuño. The hippest disco in town, La Casona attracts

The north coast

set you back no more than L60. a much younger crowd than elsewhere. Reggaeton
Chef Guity C 1, just across the river in Barrio La and merengue are permanently on the playlist.
Isla. Very good Garífuna restaurant in the Zona Viva, Cover L100.
close enough to the coast to feel the sea breeze. Try El Guapo’s Bar C 1. Hugely popular on Fri and
the “King Fish” for only L60. Sat nights, this place has a fantastic atmosphere,
Coconut On the same road as Amsterdam 2001 especially when the karaoke takes over.
and Rotterdam Beach hotels. You can sit upstairs Mango Tango On the corner of C 1 and Av
on their wooden stools and watch city life go by Barahona. Tropical-style bar with live music on
while listening to the waves lap onto the beach and weekends and a selection of Honduran bar food.
munching on typical Honduran and Mexican dishes Singers and bands are encouraged to perform.
(from L100). Transforms into a popular bar after dark. La Palapa C 1. Very popular spot in the Zona Viva
Expatriate’s Bar and Grill C 12, two blocks known for its large dancefloor and great restaurant.
east of Av San Isidro. Airy, North American-owned Sat nights are especially exciting: live bands appear
thatched bar/restaurant with excellent vegetarian perform a mix of merengue, reggae and rock cover
dishes, grilled chicken and fish and barbecued ribs. songs. Open Tues–Sun from 6pm.
Welcoming atmosphere and popular with resident
foreigners, so it’s also a good source of local infor-
mation. Closed Sun. Mains from L100.
Directory
Flipper On the corner of Av Atlántida and C 5. Good
Airlines Atlantic, at the corner of Av 15 de
burgers, steak sandwiches and minutas as well as Septiembre and Av República (T 440 2343);
comida a la vista and licuados. Breakfasts available. Isleña/Taca (T 441 3190), at the Megaplaza Mall;
Mains from L40. Sosa (T 443 1399), on the eastern side of the
Masapán C 7, Av La República–Av San Isidro. Parque.
Consistently popular self-service cafeteria with Car rental Molinari, in the Gran Hotel Paris on the
a cheap buffet of Honduran and American-style northern side of the Parque (T443 0055).
food. Not to be confused with the fast-food joint Cinema The Megaplaza mall has two screens that
of the same name on the corner. Mains from L40. show subtitled Hollywood movies every night for
Open 24hr. US$2.50.
Super Baleada On the corner of Av Colón Exchange Most of the banks are on C 8 and Av
and C 12. The cheapest meal you’re likely 14 de Julio one block east of the Parque. Ban Red
to have in La Ceiba and surely one of the best. The 24 has an ATM, while Banco Ficohsa will change
baleadas (wheat flour tortillas, often quite thick, traveller’s cheques. The Megaplaza mall also has
folded in half and filled with mashed fried beans) several banks.
are delicious, and come in all different varieties Immigration C 1, Av Atlántida–14 de Julio.
– with meats, fish, cheese, etc. Try the “super Internet Multi Net, on the corner of Av San Isidro
baleada” (L50) if you’re up for the challenge, but be and C 6, has the best connection (L20) and also
warned that not many finish it. Mains L10–60. offers international calls.
Language school Centro Internacional de Idiomas,
Drinking and nightlife Av San Isidro, C 12–13 (T440 1557, Wwww
.hondurasspanish.com), is a good Spanish school
Not for nothing does La Ceiba have a reputation as with a/c classrooms. Rates are US$190 weekly
the place to party. A hedonistic local crowd, plus a for four hours of one-to-one tuition and homestay,
steady trickle of tourists and a growing number of including all meals.
383
 Laundry Lavandería Express, opposite Expatriate’s beach. About 2km past the turning for
Bar and Grill (7.30am–5.30pm). Playa de Perú, on the Río María, there’s
Medical care Hospital D’Antoni, at the southern a series of waterfalls and natural pools
end of Av Morazán.
set in lush, shady forest. A path leads
Post Office Av Morazán, C 13–14.
Shopping The main general market is on Av
from Río María village on the highway,
Atlántida, C 5–7. The Megaplaza mall is in the winding through the hills along the left
bank of the river; it takes around thirty
honduras

southern outskirts of town past the hospital.

Telephones Hondutel, at Av Ramón Rosa, C 5–6 minutes to walk to the first cascade
(7.30am–5.50pm). and pool, with some muddy sections
and a bit of scrambling during the wet
Moving on season.
The north coast

By air to: Belize City (with Atlantic; 2hr 25min); Sambo Creek
Brus Laguna (with Sosa; 45min); Guanaja (with
There are further deserted expanses
Atlantic, Isleña/Taca, Sosa; 20min); Managua (with
of white sand at the friendly Garífuna
Atlantic; 2hr); Puerto Lempira (with Atlantic, Sosa;
1hr 10min); Roatán (with Atlantic, Isleña/Taca, Sosa; village of Sambo Creek, 8km beyond
20min); San Pedro Sula (with Atlantic, Isleña/Taca, Río María. You can eat excellent fresh
Sosa; 30min); Tegucigalpa (with Atlantic, Isleña/ fish at a couple of good restaurants in
Taca, Sosa; 40min); Utila (with Atlantic, Sosa; the village, including the expat-owned
15min). Sambo Creek – it’s the only place in
By boat to: Roatán (on the Galaxy Wave; 2 daily; town that serves ice cream and a must-
2hr); Utila (on the Utila Princess II; 2 daily; 45min). stop on really hot days. Olanchito or
By bus to: Copán Ruinas (2 daily; 6hr); Guatemala Juticalpa buses from La Ceiba will drop
City (2 daily; 11hr); Olanchito (for Juticalpa; 12
you at the turn-off to Sambo Creek on
daily; 3hr); San Pedro Sula (21 daily; 3hr 30min);
Tegucigalpa (10 daily; 6hr 30min); Tela (27 daily;
the highway, a couple of kilometres
2hr); Trujillo (22 daily; 3hr–4hr 30min). from the village; slower buses run all the
way to the village centre from La Ceiba’s
Around La Ceiba terminal every 45 minutes.
The broad sandy beaches and clean Parque Nacional Pico
water at Playa de Perú and the village Bonito
of Sambo Creek are easy day-trip Directly south of La Ceiba, the
destinations east of La Ceiba. A trip Cordillera Nombre de Dios shelters the
to explore the cloudforest within the Parque Nacional Pico Bonito (daily
Parque Nacional Pico Bonito requires 6am–4pm; US$6), a remote expanse
more planning, although the eastern of tropical broadleaf forest, cloudforest
edge of the reserve, formed by the Río and – in its southern reaches, above the
Cangrejal, is still easily accessible, and Río Aguan valley – pine forest. Taking
also offers opportunities for swimming its name from the awe-inspiring bulk
and white-water rafting. Meanwhile, a of Pico Bonito (2435m), the park is
trip to the serene islands of the Cayos the source of twenty rivers, including
Cochinos is thoroughly worth the small the Zacate, Bonito and Cangrejal,
effort it takes getting out there. which cascade majestically down the
mountains’ steep, thickly tree-covered
Playa de Perú slopes. The park also provides sanctuary
Ten kilometres east of the city, Playa for an abundance of wildlife, including
de Perú is a wide sweep of clean sand armadillos, howler and spider monkeys,
that’s popular at weekends. Any local pumas and ocelots. The lower fringes
bus running east up the coast will drop are the most easily accessible, with a
you at the highway-side turn-off, from small number of trails laid out through
where it’s a fifteen-minute walk to the the dense greenery.
384
 The easiest way to get into the park remnants of wetlands and mangrove
is to enter via the Lodge at Pico Bonito swamps along the north coast. The
(T 440 0389, W www.picobonito.com), a reserve is home to a large number of
world-class jungle lodge with bungalow endangered animals and bird species,
accommodation, gourmet cuisine, a pool including manatees, jaguars, howler and
and a sublime setting in the foothills of white-faced monkeys, sea turtles and

honduras
the forest reserve. Trails from the lodge hawks, along with seasonal influxes of
snake up through the tree cover to a migratory birds.
lookout from where Utila is visible, and To get to the reserve independently,
down to beautiful river bathing pools. catch an hourly bus (6.20am–3.30pm)
You don’t have to be a guest at the lodge from La Ceiba’s terminal to the village of
to access the park and trails, but you will La Unión, 20km or so west. From here,

The north coast

have to pay a US$17 fee. To get there you can either make your way on foot
head for the village of Los Pinos, 12km through the fruit plantations – it takes
from La Ceiba on the Tela highway, from around an hour and a half to walk the
where the hotel is signposted, 3km away 8km – or travel by burra, a flat, poled
up a dirt side-road. Alternatively, tour railcar (locals charge between US$5–15,
companies in La Ceiba operate day- depending on numbers, to shunt you
and overnight trips to Pico Bonito for along the tracks). A visitors’ centre sits
around US$30 per person (see p.382 for at the end of the track; canoe tours can
recommended operators). be arranged here, and there is also some
accommodation, in the form of a small
Río Cangrejal dorm (US$7).
The Río Cangrejal, which forms the
eastern boundary of the Parque Nacional Cayos Cochinos
Pico Bonita, boasts some of the best class Lying 17km offshore, the Cayos
III and IV rapids in Central America; Cochinos (Hog Islands) comprise
white-water rafting and kayaking eleven privately owned cayes and two
trips are organized by some of the tour thickly wooded islands – Cochino
companies listed on p.382. There are Mayor and Cochino Menor. Fringed
also some magnificent swimming spots, by a reef, the whole area has been desig-
backed by gorgeous mountain scenery, nated a marine reserve, with anchoring
along the river valley. It’s tricky to get on the reef and commercial fishing both
to the river under your own steam, but strictly prohibited. The small amount of
Jungle River Lodge (T 440 1268, W www effort it takes to get to the islands is well
.jungleriverlodge.com), managed by worth it for a few days’ utter tranquillity.
the same people as the Banana Republic Organized accommodation on the
Guesthouse (see p.382) offers an array of two islands is limited to overpriced
packages from US$35. They can arrange resort-style places. However, do not
your transport, and also have a river despair, as cheaper accommodation
lodge in the park with a bar, a restau- does exist, in the traditional Garífuna
rant and a choice of private and dorm fishing village of Chachauate on Lower
accommodation. Monitor Caye. The villagers have
allocated a hut for visitors to sling their
Refugio de Vida Silvestre hammocks in and they will also cook
Cuero y Salado meals for you. There’s no fixed cost,
Thirty kilometres west from La Ceiba, but a stay never costs that much. Basic
the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Cuero y groceries are available in the village, but
Salado (daily 7am–4pm; US$10; T 440 there is no running water or electricity
1990) is one of the last substantial and toilets are latrines.
385
 You will have to pay a bit to travel to firing squad in September of that year
the islands, especially if you’re on your by the Honduran authorities, he is
own. The only feasible way to get there buried in Trujillo’s cemetery.
is with the fishermen who sail from the
Garífuna villages of Sambo Creek or What to see and do
Nueva Armenia (around US$25 per
person return). Buses from La Ceiba Much of Trujillo’s charm lies in
honduras

run every 35 minutes to Sambo Creek meandering through its rather crumbly
(45min), and six buses make the trip streets, where the heat of the sun is
to Nueva Armenia (2hr). Alternatively, alleviated by a constant breeze. The
several tour companies in La Ceiba offer town proper stretches back five or so
day-trips and overnight stays, starting blocks south of the Parque Central,
The north coast

from around US$35 per person (see which is just fifty metres from cliffs
p.382). There is a US$5 fee for visiting overlooking the sea. On the north
the Cayos Cochinos independently, and side of the square is a bust of Juan de
a US$10 fee if you are with a tour group. Medina, who founded the town on May
Ask when arranging anything whether 18, 1525. Southwest from the centre,
the price you are quoted includes the a couple of blocks past the market, is
entrance fee. the Cementerio Viejo, where Walker’s
grave lies overgrown with weeds.
Trujillo The town’s most outstanding attrac-
Perched above the sparkling waters tions by far, though, are its beaches,
of the palm-fringed Bahía de Trujillo, which have long stretches of almost
backed by the beautiful green Cordillera pristine sand. The glorious sweep of the
Nombre de Dios, TRUJILLO immedi- Bahía de Trujillo is as yet unaffected
ately seduces the small number of by excessive tourist development,
tourists who make the 90km trip from La and its calm, blue waters are perfect
Ceiba. The city has a very different feel for effortless swimming. The beaches
from its big north coast neighbours, La below town, lined with champas, are
Ceiba and Tela – it’s beautifully relaxed. clean enough, but the stretches to
This sleepy demeanour, combined with the east, beyond the disused airstrip,
fantastic beaches and affable inhabit- are emptier. It’s also possible to walk
ants, make it a relaxing stop, or even a east along the beach to the reserve of
destination in its own right. Laguna de Guaimoreto or west to the
The area around present-day Trujillo Garífuna village of Santa Fe.
was populated by a mixture of Pech
and Tolupan groups when Columbus Fortaleza de Santa Bárbara
first disembarked here on August 14, Just along from the Parque is the town’s
1502; the city itself was founded by main attraction, the sixteenth-century
Cortés’s lieutenant, Juan de Medina, Fortaleza de Santa Bárbara (daily
in May 1525, though it was frequently 8am–noon & 1–4pm; L60), site of
abandoned due to attacks by European William Walker’s execution. Recently
pirates. Not until the late eighteenth restored to incorporate a new museum,
century did repopulation begin in the low-lying fort hangs gloomily on
earnest, aided by the arrival, via Roatán, the edge of the bluffs, overlooking the
of several hundred Garífuna. In 1860, coastline that it singularly failed to
a new threat appeared in the shape of protect against pirates. The museum
US filibuster and adventurer William charts the town’s often-colourful
Walker, who in June of that year briefly history, and has an exhibition room on
took control of the town. Executed by Garífuna culture.
386
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Museo y Piscinas Riveras Parque Nacional Capiro y

del Pedregal Calentura
Turn right past the Cementerio Viejo Directly above the town lies the dark
and a ten-minute stroll brings you to green swathe of Parque Nacional
the privately run Museo y Piscinas Capiro y Calentura (daily 6am–5pm;
Riveras del Pedregal (daily 7am–5pm; free). The reserve’s huge cedars and pines
US$2.60), an eccentric collection of tower amid a thick canopy of ferns and
rusty junk. Almost all of the original flowering plants and vines, many of
pre-Columbian ceramics once held by them used for medicinal purposes. As
the museum have been sold off, though a result of the devastation wrought by
the replacement replicas are pretty Hurricane Fifi in 1974, much of the cover
convincing. Outside, the wheels of an is secondary growth, but it still provides
American jumbo jet that crashed in the a secure habitat for howler monkeys,
area in 1985 can be seen without having reptiles and a colourful range of birdlife
to part with the entrance fee. Behind the and butterflies. You can walk into the
building are a couple of small, naturally reserve by following the dirt road past
fed swimming pools. the Villas Brinkley – it winds, increasingly
steeply, up the slope of Cerro Calentura
Barrio Cristales to the radio towers just below its summit;
Back at the Parque Central, walk a ten-kilometre walk, this is best done
west for ten minutes and you’ll reach in the relative cool of early morning.
the Barrio Cristales, the site of the Alternatively, you could negotiate with
country’s first mainland Garífuna a taxi driver to take you to the top and
settlement, founded in 1797. There then walk down. There are lots of other
are two Garífuna shops here, the trails as well – the whole park is great for
Souvenir Artesma Garífuna and Gari hiking, though unfortunately there don’t
Arte. Both sell authentic Garífuna art seem to be any trail maps to be had, so
and pottery. you’ll have to do a bit of exploring.
387
 Arrival and information

treat yourself
Villas Brinkley 1km south of
town T434 4444, Ebrinkley
By boat The infrequent boats from Guanaja dock at @hondutel.hn. One of the most
the pier at the eastern end of the beach. pleasing hotels in Honduras,
By bus The bus terminal is to the east of town, with a relaxed, welcoming
at the bottom of the hill leading into the centre. ambience and superb views
From here infrequent urban buses head up the
honduras

from the terrace over the

hill to the Parque Central, or you can take a taxi whole stretch of the bay and
(L20). its glistening waters. There’s
Tourist information There’s a small tourist office a range of tastefully furnished
on the eastern side of the Parque, next door to the rooms, all with bath and some with
Fortaleza de Santa Bárbara office. Its opening hours a/c and kitchen. The hotel also has
are sporadic; don’t be surprised if it’s closed for
The north coast

a pool, and the restaurant is a good

most of the day. place to come for a meal even if
you’re not staying here. 4
Accommodation
There’s not much in the way of budget accom-
modation in town. That said, there are a couple of Eating
excellent places in glorious settings just outside
the centre. The best places to eat in Trujillo are the informal
Casa Alemania 1km east of town T434 4466. champas (bar/restaurants) on the beach, where
This German-run hotel offers a dorm and some you can dine in the warm evening air, listening to
private rooms. The dorm is spotlessly clean and the waves. The main cluster is on the beach below
includes a kitchen and bathroom but only has 6 town – follow the ramp from the northwest corner
beds. They have a restaurant that serves breakfast, of the Parque.
lunch and dinner. Dorms 2 , rooms 4 El Bucanero In the Hotel Colonial, just off the
Casa Kiwi 7km east of town T434 3050, Parque Central. The decent menu here includes
W www.casakiwi.com. Undoubtedly one some good, cheap seafood options. At night the
of the best hostels on the north coast. Dorms are place morphs into a bar with happy-hour drink
standard, clean and include a hot-water shower; offers and a youthful ambience. They are open for
there’s a restaurant on site that serves a range breakfast. Mains from L80.
of dishes, including some vegetarian meals; and Chicken Express Half a block north of the market.
the bar will stay open as long as you like. It’s a This friendly informal place serves up a range of
great place for meeting people heading out to La hearty fried- or roast-chicken dishes. Films and
Mosquitia, and the staff have good information on soccer games are shown at night on their large
the best ways of travelling there. Dorms 1 projector. Mains L60–100.
Cocopando 1km west of centre in Barrio Cristales Lempira Villas Brinkley At Villas Brinkley. Feast
T 434 4748. Barrio Cristales’s best-value budget on well-cooked European and Honduran dishes
hotel, with a beachside setting, simple, clean while admiring the fabulous views, then walk
rooms and a great comedor downstairs. Gets noisy it all off on the stroll back to town. Moderately
at weekends when the neighbouring dance hall expensive, but worth every lempira for the quality
fires up. 2 and setting. Mains from L120.
Emperador By the market T434 4446. Playa Dorada On the beach below town. The
The town’s best budget hotel, run by an most popular of the beach champas, largely due to
extremely friendly family. Rooms are clean and it being a fair bit cheaper than most of its undis-
warm, have en-suite bathroom, TV and fan. All tinguishable neighbours. The menu, with mains
rooms face out to a small courtyard and the family from L60, consists of the typical mix of Honduran,
runs the restaurant next door. 2 Mexican and American-style dishes.
Plaza Centro By the market opposite Rogue’s Galeria On the beach below town.
Emperador T 434 3006. Clean but dark rooms, Commonly referred to as “Jerry’s”, this engaging
en-suite bathrooms and ceiling fan set around American-owned bar/restaurant features superb
an inside courtyard. Seriously lacking character, seafood and has plenty of hammocks for
but one of the few decent budget options in daytime chilling. Also has a book exchange.
town. 3 Mains from L60.

388
 experience can be topped off with a
Drinking and nightlife drink at the bar of the rather slick Agua
Black and White On the beach in Barrio Cristales. Caliente hotel in the grounds. Any bus
Black and White attracts a mainly Garífuna crowd, heading to Tocoa will drop you off at
with reggaeton blasting till the early hours. the entrance to the springs; return buses
La Truxillo Up the hill towards the western side stop running at around 5.30pm.

honduras
of town. Certainly the most popular place on the
weekends, when it heaves to Latin American
rhythms and the bar fills up with a young crowd.

Directory La Mosquitia

La Mosquitia
Exchange Banco Atlántida, on the Parque, gives
Occupying the northeast corner of
Visa cash advances.
Internet Try Ciber Café, on the eastern end of the
Honduras is the remote and undevel-
main road running through town (9am–10pm; L20). oped expanse of La Mosquitia (often
Language school SunJam School (T434 3935, spelt “Moskitia”). Bounded to the west
E [email protected]) offers 20 hours by the mountain ranges of the Río
of lessons a week for US$100, not including Plátano and Colón, with the Río Coco
accommodation. forming the border with Nicaragua to
Post office Three blocks south from the southeast the south, this vast region comprises
corner of the Parque. almost a fifth of Honduras’s territory.
Telephones The Hondutel office is next to the post
With just two peripheral roads and a
office.
tiny population divided among a few
far-flung towns and villages, entering
Moving on the Mosquitia really does mean leaving
By bus to: La Ceiba (18 daily; 3hr); Puerto Castilla the beaten track. There are few phones
(7 daily; 45min); San Pedro Sula (18 daily; 5–6hr); in the region, and all accommoda-
Tegucigalpa, via Juticalpa (1 daily, 5am; 12hr); tion is extremely basic, often without
Tegucigalpa, via La Ceiba (2 daily, 1am and 4.45am; electricity and with latrine-style toilets.
10hr); Tocoa (24 daily; 2hr 30min). Getting around requires a spirit of
By boat Island Tours (T434 3421) runs twice- adventure and the willingness to lose
weekly boats to Guanaja (Thurs & Sun 3pm; 2hr) in track of time, but the effort is well
the Bay Islands, departing from the dock on eastern
rewarded. In terms of practicalities,
end of the beach.
available food is usually limited to
rice, beans and the catch of the day, so
Around Trujillo if you’re making an independent trek,
Expanses of white-sand beach stretch bring enough food with you for your
for miles around the bay from Trujillo. party and guides.
All beaches are clean, wide and perfect To the surprise of many who come
for swimming; don’t take anything here expecting to have to hack their
valuable with you, though, and don’t way through jungle, much of La
venture onto them after dark. Mosquitia is composed of marshy
coastal wetlands and flat savanna
Aguas Calientes – likened by some to the landscape of
Taking a hot bath in the heat of the parts of the southern US. The small
Caribbean may not strike everyone communities of Palacios and Brus
as an appealing thought, but a soak in Laguna are access points for the Río
the clean and very hot mineral waters Plátano Biosphere Reserve, the most
of the Aguas Calientes springs (daily famous of five separate reserves in the
7am–9pm; US$3), 7km inland from area, set up to protect one of the finest
Trujillo, feels delightfully decadent. The remaining stretches of virgin tropical
389
 Mosquitia history and politics
Before the Spanish arrived, the Mosquitia belonged to the Pech and Sumu. Initial
contact with Europeans was comparatively benign, as the Spanish showed only a
slight interest in the area, preferring to concentrate instead on the mineral-rich lands
of the interior. Relations with Europeans intensified when the British began seeking
a foothold on the mainland in the seventeenth century, establishing settlements
honduras

on the coast at Black River (now Palacios) and Brewer’s Lagoon (Brus Laguna),
whose inhabitants – the so-called “shoremen” – engaged in logging, trading,
smuggling and fighting the Spanish.
Britain’s claim to Mosquitia, made nominally to protect the shoremen, though
really intended to ensure a transit route from the Atlantic to the Pacific, supposedly
ended in 1786, when all Central American territories except Belize were ceded to
La Mosquitia

the Spanish. In the 1820s, however, taking advantage of post-independence chaos,

Britain again encouraged settlement on the Mosquito Coast and by 1844 had all
but formally announced a protectorate in the area. Not until 1859 and the British–
American Treaty of Cruz Wyke did Britain formally end all claims to the region.
The initial impact of mestizo Honduran culture on Mosquitia was slight. Since
the creation of the administrative department of Gracias a Dios in 1959, however,
indigenous cultures have become gradually diluted: Spanish is now the main
language, and the government encourages mestizo settlers to migrate here in
search of land. Pech, Miskito and Garífuna communities have become more vocal
in recent years in demanding respect for their cultural differences and in calling for
an expansion of health, education and transport infrastructures.

rainforest in Central America. Puerto

Lempira, to the east, is the regional
What to see and do
capital. Dotted along the Caribbean shoreline
The largest ethnic group inhabiting the around Palacios is a cluster of inter-
Mosquitia are the Miskitos, numbering esting Garífuna villages, including
around thirty thousand, who spoke a
Batalla, just to the west of town across
unique form of English until as recently
the Palacios lagoon, and Plaplaya, about
as a few generations ago (see box above).
8km to the east, where a turtle project
There are much smaller communities of
Pech, who number around 2500, and has been established. Highly endan-
Tawahka (Sumu), of whom there are gered giant leatherbacks, the largest
under a thousand, living around the Río species in the world (reaching up to 3m
Patuca. in length and 900kg in weight), nest in
the beaches around the village between
Palacios April and June. There’s a resident
Peace Corps worker stationed here to
Sited on what was once the British settle-
oversee the project, and volunteers are
ment of Black River, PALACIOS lies just
west of one of the Río Plátano Biosphere welcome.
Reserve’s three coastal lagoons, Laguna
Ibans. Served by regular flights to and Accommodation
from La Ceiba, this is frequently the
Hotel Moskitia T978 7397. This is the most
starting point for organized trips to the modern and comfortable hotel in town, complete
Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve, and, for with a bar and restaurant on site. 4
independent travellers, a logical place Rio Tinto Adequate rooms can be had at this hotel
from which to begin exploration of the run by local Don Felix Marmol, who is also the
region. Isleña/Taca agent. 2
390
Río Plátano below). The local guides have organized
Biosphere Reserve themselves into a rotation system, so
that everyone gets some work. One
The RÍO PLATANO BIOSPHERE pleasant, if rather wet, trip you can make
RESERVE is the most significant is by pipante (pole-propelled canoe), five
nature reserve in Honduras, sheltering hours upstream to rock petroglyphs at
an estimated eighty percent of all the

honduras
Walpulbansirpi, carved by an unknown
country’s animal species. Visitors usually people – these are more or less at the
come to experience the rare tropical
heart of the reserve. The journey itself is
rainforest, but the reserve’s boundaries –
the main attraction, along channels too
which stretch from the Caribbean in the
shallow for motorized boats to pass; in
north to the Montañas de Punta Piedra in
sections you’ll be required to leave the

La Mosquitia
the west and the Río Patuca in the south –
boat and make your way through the
also encompass huge expanses of coastal
undergrowth. Pipantes require three
wetlands and flat savanna grasslands.
guides each, but carry only two passen-
Sadly, even inter�national recognition of
gers and cost US$25 (not including
the importance of this diverse ecosystem,
guides).
signalled by its World Heritage status,
hasn’t prevented extensive destruction at
the hands of settlers: up to sixty percent Arrival and information
of forest cover on the outer edges of the Arrival Getting to the heart of the Río Plátano
reserve has disappeared in the last three reserve requires travelling up the Río Plátano from
decades. Palacios to the small village of Las Marías a Pech
To get the most out of the park you’ll and Miskito settlement about seven hours inland,
want to hire a guide in Las Marías (see upstream from the coast.

La Mosquitia Travel
A number of companies in La Ceiba, San Pedro and Tegucigalpa offer a variety
of tours to the Mosquitia. The advantages of an organized tour are that all
the planning is done for you and you can count on being accompanied by
knowledgeable guides. Travelling independently is by no means impossible,
though, as long as you’re prepared to go with the flow.
Transport to and within La Mosquitia is mainly by air or water: the main centres of
Puerto Lempira, Palacios and Brus Laguna are connected to La Ceiba by regular
flights, while launches ply the waterways connecting the scattered villages. Bear in
mind that all schedules, especially those of the boats, are subject to change and
delay; transport on the rivers and channels is determined by how much rain has
fallen.
Flights to La Mosquitia depart from La Ceiba only (see p.382). Aerolineas Sosa
(La Ceiba T 443 1894; Puerto Lempira T433 6432; Brus Laguna T 443 8042) and
Atlantic Airlines (La Ceiba T440 2343) both have regular services. Ground transport
to the region, in the form of one bus, does exist, but progress by road is extremely
slow and indirect. It is, however, the cheapest way to get to La Mosquitia. Take
the bus from Trujillo to Tocoa (a long and bumpy ride), from where pick-ups run to
Limón and Iriona; you can carry on to Palacios from these two destinations. The
Casa Kiwi hostel in Trujillo (see p.388) is a good place for information on entering by
road and meeting others who are preparing to make the trip.
Once in the Mosquitia, boat fares are relatively high (because of fuel costs).
Hiring a boat to get from the coast to Las Marías (see above) will cost at least
US$120, even after bargaining hard, and not including food for the guides. Another
alternative is to charter a boat from Trujillo or La Ceiba to Palacios, though you’ll
need to be part of a group.
391
 The Bay
Information For general information about the
reserve, ask around in San Juan del Sur or La Ceiba
– there are no dedicated information facilities in
Mosquitia. There are some basic hospedajes in the
village, Hospedaje Doña Justa and Hospedaje Doña Islands
Rutilia. Each serves meals, and plenty of prospec-
tive guides are available to help you explore the Strung in a gentle curve 60km off the
honduras

river and surrounding jungle for US$8–10 a day. north coast, the Islas de la Bahía, with
their clear waters and abundant marine
Brus Laguna life, are the country’s main tourist
Thirty kilometres east along the coast attraction. Fringed by a coral reef, the
from Palacios, on the southeastern edge islands are a perfect destination for
cheap water-based activities – diving,
The Bay Islands

of the Laguna de Brus, is the friendly

Miskito town of BRUS LAGUNA. La sailing and fishing top the list – or
Estancia, on the main street (T 433 just relaxing. Composed of three main
8043; 3 ), has 12 basic rooms with en- islands and some 65 smaller cayes,
suite bathroom. The town is mostly seen the chain lies on the Bonacca Ridge,
by visitors as they are coming or going an underwater extension of the Sierra
– regular flights connect the town with de Omoa mountain range. Roatán is
La Ceiba, and guides and boats can be the largest and most developed of the
hired for multi-day trips, travelling up islands, while Guanaja, to the east, is a
the Río Sigre into the southern reaches bit more upmarket (though still afford-
of the Río Plátano reserve. able). Utila, the closest to the mainland,
is a target for budget travellers from all
Puerto Lempira over the world.
Capital of the department of Gracias a The Bay Islands’ history of conquest,
Dios, PUERTO LEMPIRA is the largest pirate raids and constant immigra-
town in La Mosquitia, with a population tion has resulted in an unusual society.
of eleven thousand. Set on the south- The islands’ original inhabitants were
eastern edge of the biggest of the coastal recorded by Columbus in 1502, but the
lagoons, Laguna de Caratasca, some indigenous population declined rapidly
110km east of Brus Laguna, the town as a result of enslavement and forced
survives on government administration labour. Following a series of pirate
and small-scale fishing and shrimping. attacks, the Spanish evacuated the islands
Like Brus Laguna, Puerto Lempira is in 1650. Roatán was left deserted until
mostly used by travellers as a transit the arrival of the Garífuna in 1797. These
hub – flights connect it with the rest of three hundred people, forcibly expelled
Honduras, and it’s close to the border from the British-controlled island of
with Nicaragua. The best of the available St Vincent following a rebellion, were
accommodation is at the Gran Hotel persuaded by the Spanish to settle in
Flores (T 433 6421; 3 ) in the centre of Trujillo on the mainland, leaving a small
town, where the small rooms all have settlement at Punta Gorda on Roatán’s
a/c and bath; the Hospedaje Santa Teresita, north coast. Further waves of settlers
opposite (T 433 6008; 3), is clean but came after the abolition of slavery in
basic. Banco Atlántida, next to Hotel 1830, when white Cayman Islanders and
Flores, will change traveller’s cheques freed slaves arrived first on Utila, and
and gives Visa cash advances. Mopawi later spread to Roatán and Guanaja.
(T 433 8659, E [email protected]), the Today, the islands retain their
Mosquitia development organization, cultural separation from the mainland,
has its headquarters in the town, three although the presence of Spanish-
blocks south of the main dock. speaking Hondurans and North
392
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The Bay Islands honduras

393
 American and European expats, who one of Central America’s best destina-
are settling in growing numbers, means tions for budget travellers. Life is laid-
the reshaping of the culture continues. back, but interactions with locals can
A distinctive form of Creole English is be frosty and on occasion downright
still spoken on the streets of Utila and unfriendly, with many resenting the
Guanaja, but Spanish has taken over as foreign-run dive schools that take the
honduras

the dominant language in Roatán. The biggest share of the proceeds from
huge growth in tourism since the early the tourist industry. So while crimes
1990s – a trend that shows no signs of against tourists are rare, the occasional
abating – has been controversial, as the verbal abuse isn’t.
islanders’ income, which traditionally
came from fishing or working on cargo What to see and do
The Bay Islands

ships or oil rigs, now relies heavily on

tourism. Concern is also growing about The island’s principal main road, a
the environmental impact of tourism twenty-minute walk end to end, runs
and the question of who, exactly, along the seafront from The Point in
benefits most from the boom. the east to Sandy Bay in the west. Utila
Town (also known as East Harbour), is
Utila the island’s only settlement and home to
The smallest of the three main Bay the majority of its two thousand-strong
Islands, UTILA is also the cheapest population.
and one of the best places in the
world to learn to dive (and even if you Diving
don’t want to don tanks, the superb Most visitors come to Utila specifi-
waters around the island offer great cally for the diving, attracted by the
swimming and snorkelling possibili- low prices, clear water and abundant
ties), factors which combine to make it marine life. Even in winter, the water is

Getting to and from the Bay Islands

All three islands – Utila, Roatán and Guanaja – are served by several daily flights
from the mainland, and both Utila and Roatán have daily boat connections with La
Ceiba.
By air Flying to the islands is straightforward; ticket prices are very cheap and
standardized by the Honduran government. There are twenty-one flights daily from
La Ceiba to Roatán (20min; US$37), four daily to Utila (20min; US$32), and five daily
to Guanaja (30min; US$52). Availability is very rarely a problem, and you can buy
your tickets on the spot at the airport, though you should book ahead in the peak
holiday seasons (Christmas, Easter and August). All internal flights from San Pedro
Sula (1hr) and Tegucigalpa (1hr) stopover briefly in La Ceiba. Bear in mind that
schedules change at short notice and flights are sometimes cancelled altogether.
The domestic airlines, Isleña/Taca, Sosa and Atlantic all have offices in La Ceiba
(see p.383). There are also several international non-stop flights serving Roatán:
Continental have direct flights from Houston daily and Delta have direct flights from
Atlanta, while Taca operate a direct flight once weekly from Houston and Miami.
By boat Most travellers use the excellent scheduled ferry services leaving La Ceiba
daily for Utila (Utila Princess II; 1hr; US$16 one way) at 9.30am and 4pm (return
6.20am & 2pm) and for Roatán (Galaxy Wave; 2hr; US$27 one way) daily at 10am
and 4pm (return 7am & 2pm). For the latest ferry information call the offices in
Roatán (T 445 1795) or Utila (T 425 3390). There are also two boats weekly from
Trujillo to Guanaja (see p.389).

394
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generally calm and common sightings p.396). Price is not really a considera-
include nurse and hammerhead sharks, tion, with the dozen or so dive shops all
turtles, parrotfish, stingrays, porcupine charging around US$225 for a three- to
fish and an increasing number of five-day PADI course; advanced and
dolphins. Whale sharks also continue divemaster courses are also on offer, as
to be a major attraction – the island is are fun dives, from US$25.
one of the few places in the world where
whale sharks will frequently pass close Swimming and snorkelling
to shore. The best swimming near town is at the
On the north coast of the island, Blue Bayou, a twenty-minute walk west
Blackish Point and Duppy Waters are of the centre, where you can bathe in
both good sites; on the south coast the chest-deep water and snorkel further
best spots are Black Coral Wall and out; there’s a US$1.50 charge to use the
Pretty Bush. The good schools (see box, area, which also boasts a small sandy
p.397, for suggestions) will be happy beach, food stand and a rickety wooden
to spend time talking to you about the pier where you can sunbathe in peace
merits of the various sites. away from the sandflies. Hammocks
Rather than signing up with the are slung in the shade of coconut trees
first dive school representative who and there’s snorkelling gear available
approaches you, it’s worth spending a for rent (US$1.50 per hour). East of
morning walking around checking out town, Airport Beach, at the end of the
all the schools. You want to feel comfort- old dirt airstrip, offers good snorkelling
able with your decision, as diving can be just offshore (though access is more
dangerous – it is imperative that you difficult), as does the little reef beyond
get along with your instructor (see box, the lighthouse. The old airstrip area
395
 diving safety in the bay islands
Diving safety is an important issue and one that is taken seriously by all
professional dive schools in the Bay Islands. For peace of mind, make sure that you
understand – and get along with – your instructors, many of whom speak several
languages. Before signing up, check that classes have no more than six people,
that the equipment is well-maintained and that all boats have working oxygen and
honduras

a first-aid kit. Anyone with asthma or ear problems should not be allowed to dive.
All responsible schools will charge you US$3 a day insurance covering medical
treatment in the event of emergency. Be aware that schools advertising discount
rates may be cutting corners.
It’s also important to bear in mind that the coral reef dies every time it is touched.
BICA (Bay Islands Conservation Association) has been installing buoys at each of
The Bay Islands

the sites to prevent boats anchoring on the reef and all the reputable schools use
these.

has been slated for development as a day’s snorkelling, if you have your own
resort centre, while the importation of equipment. Ask at the Bundu Café (see
ten bargeloads of white sand will create p.398).
a new beach. The path from the end Water Caye, a blissful stretch of white
of the airstrip up the east coast of the sand, coconut palms, pellucid water and
island leads to a couple of small coves a small coral reef, is even more idyllic
– the second is good for swimming and given its absence of sandflies. Camping
sunbathing. Five minutes beyond the is allowed and a caretaker turns up every
coves, you’ll come to the Ironshores, a day to collect the US$2 fee for use of the
mile-long stretch of low volcanic cliffs island. To stay you’ll need a tent, food,
with lava tunnels cutting down to the equipment for a fire and water. Water
water. Caye is also the venue for the SunJam
festival (see p.398).
Utila Iguana Station
The Utila Iguana Station (Mon, Wed & Arrival and information
Fri 2–5pm; US$2.20), signposted from
the road five minutes west of the dock, By air The airport is 3km north of Utila Town at
is a breeding centre for the endangered the end of the island’s second main road, Cola de
Mico Road, which heads inland from the dock.
Utila spiny-tailed iguana, found only on
Taxis wait for arriving flights, so you shouldn’t
the island and facing extinction. Guided have trouble finding one to take you into town. The
tours explain the life cycle of the species. old dirt airstrip at The Point is no longer used for
It’s worth a visit, especially if you need a commercial flights.
break from all the diving. By boat All boats dock in the centre of Utila Town.
Tourist information Captain Morgan’s Travel
Utila Cayes (T425 3349), at the dock, can help you with ferry
The Utila Cayes – eleven tiny outcrops and flight tickets. They can also look after your bag
strung along the southwestern edge of while you search for a place to stay.
the island – were designated a wildlife
refuge in 1992. Suc Suc (or Jewel) Island transport
Caye and Pigeon Caye, connected by
ATVs and scooters Motorized transport can be
a narrow causeway, are both inhabited, rented at Bodden, behind the HSBC by the dock.
and the pace of life is even slower than Bikes Bikes can be rented from Delco, next to
on Utila. Small launches regularly shuttle Henderson’s grocery store west of the dock, and
between Suc Suc and Utila (US$8), or other places around town – rates start at around
can be rented to take you across for a US$5 a day.
396
 the best value on the island. The shared bathrooms
Accommodation are squeaky clean and the owner is friendly and
informative. Hummingbird feeders attract birds,
Utila has more than enough affordable guesthouses
including the rare Canivet’s Emerald. 2
and hotels, and a profusion of rooms for rent. With
Mango Inn 5min from the dock T425 3335,
the exception of Semana Santa and parts of the Wwww.mango-inn.com. A beautiful, well-run
high season, there’s always somewhere available. place, timber-built in Caribbean style and set in

honduras
Most of the dive schools have links with a hostel, shady gardens. The range of rooms stretches from
and enrolling in a dive course may get you a few thatched, a/c bungalows to pleasant dorms. There’s
free or discounted nights’ accommodation. Every- a book exchange and laundry service, and the
where is within walking distance of the dock; the attached Mango Café is a popular spot for an evening
accommodation listed below is in the order that you drink (see p.398). Rates drop by at least half if you’re
come to it from the dock. There are no designated diving with the Utila Dive Centre. 2, rooms 6

The Bay Islands

places to camp except on the cayes. Bavaria Up on the hill just past the Mango Inn
T425 3809. Removed from a lot of the hustle
East of the dock and bustle of the main street. All rooms come with
Holand’s Inn 2min from the dock T425 3206. private bathroom and there is a balcony to sit out
Rooms here are pretty standard, with clean private on and enjoy the tranquil setting. 2
bathroom and fan. Decent option if a little over-
priced. 3 West of the dock
Cooper’s Inn 5min from the dock T425 Rose’s Inn 4min from the dock T 425 3127.
3184. One of the best budget places on the Rooms are on the small side, but this well-kept
island, with orderly, basic rooms (all with fans) and hotel is still a fine option. Communal kitchen and
very friendly management. There is use of a shared hot-water bathrooms are also a bonus. 2
kitchen, shared bathrooms and restaurant. 2 Tropical 4min from the dock, next door to Rose’s
Inn T425 3568. Very popular backpackers’ strong-
Cola de Mico Road hold. The small functional rooms all have fans and
Blueberry Hill On the left side of the road right there’s a communal kitchen. 1
before the Jade Seahorse T425 2199. Locally Sea Side Utila 8min from the dock,
owned, no-frills hotel renting out rooms and apart- opposite Gunter’s Dive Shop T 425 3450.
ments. The only difference between the two is that Certainly the best budget accommodation on the
with the apartment you get a private bathroom, island: the shared rooms fit three people and each
which for one extra dollar is well worth it. Rooms 1 , includes a spotlessly clean bathroom. Communal
apartments 2 kitchen and internet access is available. There is
Tony’s Place Opposite Mango Inn T425 3376. The also a balcony which overlooks the street below
simple but spotless rooms (with fan) are amongst and is perfect for a Caribbean sunset. 1

dive schools in utila

As soon as you get off the boat you’ll be met by dive school representatives
laden with maps and information. Many schools offer free accommodation during
their courses, but it’s worth checking out the various options before signing up.
Recommended schools include:
Alton’s Two minutes’ walk west of the airstrip T 425 3704, W www
.altonsdiveshop.com.
Captain Morgan’s On the corner opposite the dock T 425 3349, W www
.divingutila.com.
Cross Creek Five minutes’ walk east of the dock T 425 3397, W www
.crosscreekutila.com.
Gunter’s Eight minutes’ walk west of the dock T 425 3350, E ecomarine@gmail
.com. They also rent sea kayaks (US$5 per day).
Parrots Two minutes’ walk west of the dock W http://tiny.cc/Yb1fB. Utila’s only
locally owned dive school.
Utila Dive Centre Near the end of the road west of the dock, close to the bridge
T 425 3326, W www.utiladivecentre.com.
397
 selection of pasta, salads and daily specials
Eating including a free starter. Bread is home-made
and many of the dishes are more imaginative
Lobster and fish are staples on the islands, along
than the standard Bolognese pastas that are sold
with the usual rice, beans and chicken. With the
elsewhere. Try the grilled aubergine and pesto
tourists, however, have also come European and
starter. Mains from US$6.
American foods – pasta, pizza, burgers, pancakes
Ultralight Israel 7min from the dock.
and granola. Since most things have to be brought
honduras

Excellent Middle Eastern cuisine: falafel,

in by boat, prices are higher than on the mainland:
fresh pita bread, sabich and numerous hummus
main courses start at around US$4, and beers cost
dishes feature on this menu and make it one of
at least US$1. For eating on the cheap, head for the
Utila’s best. Mains from US$4.
evening stalls on the road by the dock, which do a
Driftwood Bar and Grill West of the dock, right
thriving trade in baleadas. Note that many restau-
and the end of the path. The menu could be criti-
rants stop serving at around 10pm.
The Bay Islands

cized for being a bit generic – it’s the usual mix

of Honduran, Mexican and American-style dishes
East of the dock
– but it’s a nice place, sitting out on a wooden jetty
Bundu Café 1min from the dock. A very popular
with friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. Mains
travellers’ hang-out serving European-style break-
from US$4.
fasts and lunches along with lassi-style milkshakes.
Curry night on Thurs and live music on Sat. Mains
from US$4. Drinking and nightlife
Mermaid’s 2min from the dock. Fast-food buffet
with pizza, Chinese food and pasta at reasonable Despite its tiny population, Utila is a fearsomely
rates served under a breezy canvas roof. Mains hedonistic party island, especially in the first week
from US$3. of August when the annual SunJam Festival takes
RJ’s at The Point Beside the bridge. Popular with place (see below).
dive crews and students, with a gregarious atmos- Bar in the Bush Along the Cola de Mico Rd
phere and excellent meat and fish barbecues. Get towards the new airport. This huge open-air bar is
there early if you want a table, as it fills up quickly. the only late-night venue on the island, open until
Open Wed, Fri and Sun 5.30–10.00pm only. Mains 3am, and often with live DJs. Open Fri only.
from US$5. Coco Loco Bar Just west of the dock. This is the
hottest place in town for travellers. It draws a lively
Cola de Mico Road bunch with its extended happy hour and regular
Thompson’s Bakery A great place to read, drink house, techno and reggae parties. Happy hour from
coffee and meet other travellers while sampling 4–7pm.
the good-value breakfast (omelettes US$2) or the Jade Seahorse Treetanic Bar A short
range of daily baked goods including delicious walk up the Cola de Mico Road. Unques-
johnny cakes. tionably the most eccentric place on the island.
Run by an American artist and designed in his
West of the dock own unique style, this hotel/restaurant/bar is a
Munchies 1min from the dock. The best breakfast maze of colour and reflection that really comes
on the island, with a range of cooked food and fresh alive by night.
fruit, smoothies and licuados. Check out the Iguana Mango Café At the Mango Inn. A popular spot for
Garden at the rear, a steep wall inhabited by a group cheap beer and a quiet drink.
of spiny-tailed iguanas. Try the lunch special (US$4). Tranquila Bar Next to Coco Loco Bar. This bar is a
La Piccola Kate’s 1min from the dock. The lively venue, popular with locals and tourists. A little
island’s only Italian restaurant boasts a wide more laid-back than frantic Coco Loco.

Sunjam festival
The SunJam Festival (Wwww.sunjamutila.com), held every year in the first week
of August, is a two-day rave, with European house and techno DJs. It takes place
on Water Caye, the largest and most picturesque of the tiny cayes to the southwest
of the island. SunJam is a secretive affair and information is released on very short
notice, usually just a few weeks before it’s due to take place, so if you’re going to
be in the area, keep your ear to the ground.
398
 charm of some of the island’s smaller
Directory towns and villages. It’s worth taking
Airlines Tickets for Sosa can be purchased in the time out to explore the less travelled
captain’s office by the dock. Isleña/Taca has an parts of the island where you can really
office 2min west of the dock. get a sense of what it would have been
Books The Bundu Café, on the main street, east of like before the tourists arrived.
the dock, has a book exchange.

honduras
Exchange Banco Atlántida and HSBC, both close to
Coxen Hole
the dock, change money and offer cash advances
Coxen Hole (also known as Roatán
on Visa cards.
Immigration At the captain’s office (Mon–Fri Town) is uninteresting and run down;
9am–noon & 2–4.30pm). most visitors come here only to change
Internet Numerous internet cafés have sprung up money or shop. All of the town’s

The Bay Islands

along the coastal road, but shop around as some practical facilities and most of its shops
still charge as much as US$5 an hour for connec- are on a hundred-metre stretch of Main
tions that are no better or worse than those at the Street, near where the buses stop.
average rate of US$2. There is one café just east of
the dock on the corner.
Sandy Bay
Laundry Services available in a nameless building
about 2min east of the dock.
Midway between Coxen Hole and West
Medical care The Community Medical Center is End, Sandy Bay is an unassuming
2min west of the dock (Mon–Fri 8am–noon). community with a number of interesting
Post office In the large building at the main dock
(Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–4.30pm, Sat 9–11.30am).
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 attractions. The Institute for Marine presence of a year-round community of
Sciences (Sun–Tues & Thurs–Sat 8am– sun worshippers and a rash of dive shops,
4.30pm; US$3), based at Antony’s Key the village retains a laid-back charm
Resort, has exhibitions on the marine during the day whilst adopting a vibrant,
life and geology of the islands and a party feel after dark. Nowhere else on
museum with useful information on Roatán will you get such an eclectic
honduras

local history and archeology. There are mix of people, attracted not only by the
also bottle-nosed dolphin shows (4pm; relaxed nature of the town, but also the
US$3, closed Wed), and you can dive or unrivalled potential for watersports.
snorkel with the dolphins (US$112 and
US$84 respectively). Across the road West Bay
from the institute, several short nature Two kilometres southwest of West
The Bay Islands

trails weave through the jungle at the End, towards the extreme western
Carambola Botanical Gardens (daily tip of Roatán, is the stunning white-
8am–5pm; US$3), a riot of beautiful sand beach of West Bay, fringed by
flowers, lush ferns and tropical trees. coconut palms and washed by crystal-
clear waters. The beach’s tranquillity
West End has been mildly disrupted by a rash of
With its calm waters and incredible cabaña and hotel construction, but it’s
sandy beaches, West End, 14km from still a sublime place to relax and enjoy
Coxen Hole, makes the most of its ideal the Caribbean. There’s decent snorkel-
setting at the southwest corner of the ling at the southern end of the beach
island. From the beautifully sheltered, too, though the once pristine reef has
palm-fringed Half Moon Bay at the suffered in recent years from increasing
northern end of town, a sandy track river run-off and the close attentions of
runs a kilometre or so along the water’s unsupervized day-trippers.
edge through the heart of the West End, From West End, it’s a pleasant 45-
past a plethora of guesthouses, bars and minute stroll south along the beach and
restaurants, geared towards independent over a few rock outcrops; alternatively you
travellers of all budgets. Thanks to the can take one of the small launches that

Water sports in and around West End

Dive courses for all levels are available in West End. Prices are officially
standardized, with a four-day PADI open-water course costing around US$250,
but it’s worth asking around as some schools include basic accommodation, and
sporadic price wars have been known to break out. Fun dives are set at US$35 a
dive, though again substantial discounts are often on offer, with ten-dive packages
set at around US$250. Recommended West End–based schools include West End
Divers (Wwww.westendivers.com), Ocean Connections (W www.ocean-connections
.com), Coconut Tree Divers (W www.coconuttreedivers.com) and Native Sons
(Wwww.nativesonsroatan.com).
The reef lying just offshore provides superb snorkelling, with the best spots being
at the mouth of Half Moon Bay and at the Blue Channel, which can be accessed
from the beach 100m south of Foster’s bar. You can also rent sea kayaks from
the Sea Breeze Inn, close to the entrance road; expect to pay around US$12 for
a half-day or US$20 for a full day. Underwater Paradise, based in the Half Moon
Bay Resort, runs popular, hour-long glass-bottomed boat tours from US$18 per
person. For something completely different, visit the Roatán Institute for Deep Sea
Exploration (Wwww.stanleysubmarines.com). Run by an American who built his
own submarine, in which he takes intrepid tourists to depths of 2000ft, it’s located
on the northern side of Half Moon Bay.
400
leave regularly from West End Divers. A secluded Playa Beach after around
dirt road also runs here: from West End, 1.5km. A further 5km or so along is
head up the road to Coxen Hole and take Camp Bay Beach, an idyllic stretch of
the first turning on the right. white sand and coconut palms.

French Harbour Port Royal

honduras
Leaving Coxen Hole, the paved road runs The road ends at the village of Port Royal,
northeast past the small secluded cove on the southern edge of the island, where
of Brick Bay to French Harbour, a busy the faint remains of a fort built by the
fishing port and the island’s second largest English can be seen on a caye offshore.
town. Less run-down than Coxen Hole, The village lies in the Port Royal Park
it’s a lively and interesting place to spend and Wildlife Reserve, the largest refuge

The Bay Islands

the day. Should you have time, stop by on the island, set up in 1978 in an attempt
the town’s private Iguana Reserve (daily to protect endangered species such as the
9am–5pm; US$1), home to more than yellow-naped parrot.
2800 specimens of four species; all the The eastern tip of Roatán is made
proceeds of the entry fee go towards the up of mangrove swamps, with a small
care of the animals. To get there, follow island, Morat, just offshore. Beyond
the signs to the Fantasy Island Resort until is Barbareta caye, which has retained
you see signs leading to the centre. much of its virgin forest cover. The
reef around Barbareta and the nearby
Oak Ridge Pigeon Cayes offers good snorkelling;
From French Harbour the road cuts launches can be hired to reach these
inland along a central ridge to give islands from Oak Ridge for around
superb views of both the north and US$35 for a return trip.
south coasts of the island. After about
14km the road reaches Oak Ridge, an Arrival and information
attractive fishing port with wooden
By air Regular domestic and international flights
houses strung along its harbour. There land at Roatán’s only international airport, on the
are some nice unspoiled beaches to the road to French Harbour, 3km east of Coxen Hole
east of town, accessible by launches – the main town on the south side of the island.
from the main dock, and other nearby There are information and hotel reservation desks,
communities can be reached by boat car rental agencies and a bank at the airport.
cruises through the mangroves. By boat Roatán’s harbour, known as Brick Bay,
sits directly between the towns of Coxen Hole and
French Harbour.
Punta Gorda
Tourist information There is an official tourist
About 5km from Oak Ridge on the office just north of the road running into Coxen Hole.
northern coast of the island is the village
of Punta Gorda, the oldest Garífuna
Island transport
community in Honduras. The best time
to visit is for the anniversary of the Bikes and cars Captain Van’s, at the southern end
founding of the settlement on April 12, of Half Moon Bay, rents out bicycles (US$9), mopeds
when Garífuna from all over the country (US$39) and motorbikes (US$45). Opposite, you can
attend the celebrations. At other times rent cars from Roatán Rentals.
Minibuses There are two minibus routes covering
it’s a quiet and slightly dilapidated little
all of the island’s main settlements. Bus #1 (every
port with no buildings of note. From the
30min) goes from Coxen Hole to French Harbour,
end of the paved road at Punta Gorda, stopping in Oak Ridge. Bus #2 (every 15min) goes
it’s possible to continue driving along from Coxen Hole to Sandy Bay, stopping in West
the dirt track which runs east along End. The price depends on how far you’re going,
the island, passing the turn-off for the and travel times depend largely on the driver.
401
 Taxis It’s never hard finding a taxi in Roatán, inviting one. Guests are free to use the kitchen and
though as with everything else, it is often a lot more bathrooms, at their own risk. If you’re prepared to
expensive than on the mainland. From the airport or deal with its faults, Valerie’s is the kind of place
harbour to West End expect to pay US$5 in a shared where your first impressions aren’t always correct.
ride and up to US$15 on your own. Dorms 1 Rooms from 2

Coxen Hole
Accommodation
honduras

Unless you’ve got an early ferry or flight, it’s

Most of the accommodation in West End is charm- unlikely you’ll want to stay in town.
ingly individualistic but not easy on the pocket: you Hotel Cay View About 10min north from the dock
won’t find anywhere near the same value for money T445 0269. Fairly decent rooms with TV and hot
that you do on the mainland. Heavy discounts are showers. 4
available during low season (April–July & Sept to
The Bay Islands

mid-Dec), particularly for longer stays.

treat yourself
Posada Arco Iris Half Moon
Bay T 445 4264, W www
West End
.roatanposada.com. Set in
Burkes’s Place At the northern end of the
attractive gardens just off
main beach road T445 1252. One of West
the beach, with excellent,
End’s best deals, this family-run hotel has cared-for
imaginatively furnished and
rooms, all equipped with hot-water bathrooms and
spacious rooms, studios
fan. There is also a fantastic kitchen which has all
and tastefully decorated
the tools necessary to cook up a real feast. 4
apartments, all with fridge
Chillie’s Half Moon Bay T 445 4062, W www
and hammocks, and some
.nativesonsroatan.com/chillies. Well set-up
with a/c. 5 –7
backpackers’ choice, with the option of rooms
with shared bath or private cabins. Communal
kitchen also available. Also home to Native Sons
Divers. 4 –5
Eating
Georphi’s Tropical Towards the southern end of
the main beach road T445 1794, Wwww There’s a more than adequate range of places
.roatangeorphis.com. One of the better deals on the to eat in West End, with fish, seafood and pasta
island, with a mix of budget-style rooms and more featuring heavily on many menus, though prices are
upmarket cabins. The rooms are fairly basic, but on the high side.
well looked after and all have private bathroom. 4
Mariposa Lodge On a side-street halfway West End
down the main beach road T445 4450. Argentinian Grill Half Moon Bay. Argentine-run
A good-value, quiet lodge with two apartments – restaurant with authentic churrascos, grilled meats
complete with sundecks, kitchen and cable TV – and and seafood at reasonable (by Roatán standards)
a small cabin with three private rooms, all sharing a prices (from US$10). Portions are huge and service
large kitchen and bathroom. 5–6 efficient.
Sea Breeze Inn Just south of Half Moon Bay Bakery#2 Half Moon Bay, on the left-hand side of
behind the Cannibal Café. T445 4026, Wwww the road. Good place for breakfast (French toast
.seabreezeroatan.com. A mix of rooms, studios and US$2) and one of the few places open early in the
apartments. The rooms are reasonable but very morning. Seating is outside on a narrow veranda
small and include a fridge and hot showers. The overlooking the beach.
studios are more expensive but altogether much Le Bistro Halfway down the main beach
better value with a large kitchen and aesthetic road, above West End Divers. This bijou
decor. Recommended if you’re staying for any Thai–Vietnamese restaurant serves up the best
length of time in West End. 4 –5 food in the whole of Roatán. It’s great value (mains
Valerie’s About 300m down the main beach from US$6) and phenomenally popular – get there
road, then up a signposted dirt track tno phone, early if you want a table.
Wwww.roatanonline.com/valeries. A love-it-or- Cannibal Café Just south of Half Moon Bay, in
hate-it bohemian hostel. Set up with a profusion front of the Sea Breeze Inn, serving typical Mexican
of quirky accommodation, including two trailer- fare at very reasonable prices. If you’re craving
style rooms, two apartments, a small house, one some spice, you can have your entire meal covered
large gloomy dorm and another smaller, more in green chilli for no extra cost. They also have a
402
“burritos challenge”: eat three large burritos and Hole Banco Atlántida has an ATM, and to change
get them for free. Mains from US$5. traveller’s cheques you could try the HSBC.
Lighthouse Restaurant Close to the seafront Internet Though widely available, internet connec-
between West End and Half Moon Bay. Big portions tions in West End are slow and overpriced; Barefoot
of reasonably priced Caribbean food served up in Charlie’s towards the southern end of West End
friendly, diner-like surroundings. Mains from $8. charges US$7/hr and also has a book exchange.
Rotisserie Chicken Towards the southern Paradise Computers in Half Moon Bay charge

honduras
end of the main beach road. If you’re US$10/hr. In Coxen Hole rates are lower than
looking for the most food you can get for as little the rest of the island, though still expensive; try
money possible, then this is the place. A mix of Martínez Cyber beside the HSBC bank on the main
Honduran and Mexican cuisine is served alongside street.
some large side dishes that can be added to the Immigration The migración is near the small
main meal for very little extra. The quesadillas are square on Main Street in Coxen Hole.

The Bay Islands

particularly good. Always busy, so get there early. Laundry Bamboo Hut Laundry, at the southern end
Mains from $4. of West End, will wash five pounds for US$4.
Rudy’s Coffee Stop Towards the southern end Post office Near the migración and the small
of the main beach road. Rudy’s serves legendary square on Main Street in Coxen Hole.
breakfasts, including banana pancakes (US$3.50), Supermarket HB Warren is the largest super-
omelettes, fresh coffee and juices. Opens at market on the island, and there’s a small and not
6.30am, so it’s ideal for an early meal and a quick too impressive general market just behind Main
getaway. Closed Sun. Street in Coxen Hole.

Sandy Bay Guanaja

Rick’s American Café If you’re looking to eat in
Sandy Bay Rick’s is well worth the climb to the
GUANAJA, some 25km long and only
top of the hill above the road. This café serves four kilometres wide at its largest point,
possibly the largest burgers in the Bay Islands. is divided into two unequal parts by
Mains from US$8. a narrow canal – the only way to get
between the two sections of the island
Drinking and nightlife is by water-taxi, which adds both to the
atmosphere and to the cost of living. The
Drinking can drain your pocket fast, so seek out island is very thinly populated – most of
the half-price happy hours featured at many of Guanaja’s twelve thousand inhabitants
the restaurants and bars in town, some lasting live in Bonacca (also known as Guanaja
until 10pm.
Town), a crowded settlement on a small
West End
caye a few hundred metres offshore. It’s
Blue Channel About 250m down the main beach here that you’ll find the island’s shops,
road. This restaurant-cum-bar-cum-cinema as well as the bulk of the less unreason-
shows movies and sporting events most nights on ably priced accommodation. The only
their large projector. They also host local bands. other settlements of any substance are
Admission is free if you’re eating, otherwise it’s Savannah Bight (on the east coast) and
US$2.75. Mangrove Bight (on the north coast).
Foster’s At the second of the big piers to the Note that sandflies and mosquitoes
south of town. A West End institution. Fri nights
are endemic throughout the island, so
get rowdy when Foster’s hosts a weekly reggae
arrive prepared to deal with them.
jump-up.
Sundowners Opposite Native Sons, Half Moon Bay.
This tiny bar often kicks the night off with happy What to see and do
hour from 4–7pm.
Wandering around Bonacca’s warren
of tight streets, walkways and canal
Directory bridges makes for an interesting half-
Exchange West End has an ATM in the lobby of the hour or so – though government plans
Dolphin Hotel, and another one outside the Coconut to eliminate the town’s tiny waterways
Tree supermarket, both in Half Moon Bay. In Coxen for new roads means the town may
403
 The Mestizo Dive Site was opened in
(6"/"+" 2002 to mark the 500th anniversary of
Christopher Columbus’s visit, with
sunken statues of the explorer and
national hero Lempira on a reef
surrounded by genuine Spanish colonial
artefacts, including a cannon.
honduras

 
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Arrival and information
"JSMJOFT
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northern section of the island, next to the canal.
The Bay Islands

Aside from a couple of dirt tracks there are no

roads, and the main form of transport is small
launches. You can hire a water-taxi, though high
"$$0..0%"5*0/ fuel costs are reflected by the fares. If you have
.JMMFS # pre-booked a resort on the island you will be met
3PTBSJP " at the airport.
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sites you’ll have to contact one of the hotel-based
dive schools: the Island House Resort (T 9991
not be the Honduran Venice for much 0391) usually has the best rates at around US$70
longer. Virtually all the houses in town for two dives including equipment.
are built on stilts – vestiges of early
settlement by Cayman islanders – with Accommodation
the main causeway running for about
Miller Halfway along the main causeway, Bonacca
500m east–west along the caye.
T453 4327. Housed in a slightly run-down
Though Guanaja’s Caribbean pine building, though the rooms are in reasonable
forests were flattened by Hurricane condition; most have hot water and, for a little
Mitch, there’s still some decent hiking extra, a/c and cable TV. 5
to be found. A wonderful trail leads Rosario In a green building, opposite the main
from Mangrove Bight up to Michael’s causeway, Bonacca T453 4240. Clean, well-
Peak, the highest point in the Bay �ventilated rooms all with hot-water bathrooms. A
Islands (412m) and down to Sandy Bay good option if Miller, across the street is full. 5
on the south coast, affording stunning
views of Guanaja, Bonacca and the Eating and drinking
surrounding reef. Fit walkers can do the Mexi-Treats Just past Pirate’s Den. This Mexican
trail in a day, or you can camp on the restaurant is the best in town, serving up some
summit, provided you bring your own surprisingly tasty dishes. Mains from L80.
provisions. Pirate’s Den Towards the western end of the main
Some of the island’s finest white-sand causeway. Good for fresh seafood, daily lunch
beaches lie around the rocky headland specials and Fri barbecues. Mains from L100.
of Michael’s Rock, near the Island House
Resort on the north coast, with good Directory
snorkelling close to the shore. Diving
Airlines Sosa has an office opposite the Bank.
is excellent all around the main island,
Isleña/Taca has an office at the main dock.
but particularly off the small cayes to Exchange You can change dollars and get cash
the east, and at Black Rocks, off the advances at Banco Atlántida, to the right of the dock.
northern tip of the main island, where Internet Can be found on the main causeway for
there’s an underwater coral canyon. under L20.
404
 Nicaragua

Greece
highlights

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DAILY BUDGET Basic US$16–25/ POPULATION 5.5 million

rough costs

fact file

occasional treat US$45–65 AREA 130,000 sq km

DRINK Beer US$1 LANGUAGES Spanish, Creole
FOOD Comida típica US$2–4 English on the Atlantic Coast
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CURRENCY Nicaragua córdoba (C$)
US$1.50–4/US$5–10/US$15–30 CAPITAL Managua (population: 1.5
TRAVEL Managua–San Juan del Sur million)
by bus (roughly 135km): 2hr 30min– INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
3hr 30min, US$7.50. T505
TIME ZONE GMT –6hr

405
 Introduction
Wedge-shaped Nicaragua may be the largest nation in Central
America, but it is also one of the least visited. Still, many
travellers who spend any time here find that Nicaragua is their
nicaragua

favourite country in the isthmus – one simply can’t remain

immune to the country’s extraordinary landscape of volcanoes
(seventeen in all), lakes, mountains and vast plains of rainforest.
In comparison with the Maya ruins of Guatemala or the national
parks of Costa Rica, the country offers few traditional tourist
Introduction

attractions – almost no ancient structures remain, and years

of revolution, civil war and natural disasters have laid waste
to museums, galleries and theatres – and a chronic lack of
funding, high inflation and unemployment have impoverished
the country’s infrastructure. It’s these same qualities, though,
that make Nicaragua an incorrigibly vibrant and individualistic
country, with plenty to offer travellers prepared to brave the
superficial obstacles of economic chaos, cracked pavements
and crammed public transport.
Virtually every traveller passes through are very much alive in Nicaragua; visit
the capital, Managua, if only to catch a Masaya’s Mercado Nacional de Artesanía
bus; there’s little to detain visitors in the to find some fantastic-value high-quality
capital, however, and many quickly head crafts, or stay on the Solentiname Archi-
for Granada, with its splendid lakeside pelago and learn about the primitive
setting and wonderful colonial archi- painting traditions that have flourished
tecture. A smattering of beaches along there. León, the birthplace of poet Rubén
the Pacific coast, from San Juan del Sur Darío, is often considered the country’s
to Jiquilillo, continues to attract the cultural capital – look for the famous
surfing and backpacking crowds, while murals depicting Nicaragua’s turbulent
the beautiful – and as yet unspoilt – Corn political history. Ecotourism, volcano-
Islands, just off the coast of Bluefields, viewing and hiking are the attractions
offer idyllic white sand beaches framed of the Isla de Ometepe, with its thrilling
by wind-swept palm trees and the azure twin peaks rising out of the freshwater
Caribbean Sea. Culture and the arts lake. In the central region, where much

WHEN TO GO
Nicaragua has two distinct seasons, the dry and the wet. The rainy season, or
invierno (winter), runs roughly from May to November. Verano (summer December–
April) is extremely hot and often uncomfortably dry. Fewer travellers come in the
rainy season – which alone could be a reason for choosing to put up with the daily
downpour. On the Pacific Coast, rain often falls in the afternoons from May to
November, although the mornings are dry. The central mountain region has a
cooler climate with sporadic rainfall all year, while the Atlantic Coast is very wet,
hot and humid year-round, with September and October being the height of the
tropical storm season.

406
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of the country’s export-grade coffee is 1821 Nicaragua gains independence from Spain as
grown, the climate is refreshingly cool; part of the Central American Federation.
hiking and birdwatching are the main 1838 Nicaragua becomes an independent nation
(save the Atlantic coast, which is claimed as British
activities near the mountain town of
territory).
Matagalpa. More than anything, though, 1855 American adventurer William Walker takes
the pleasures and rewards of travelling control of the government.
in Nicaragua come from interacting 1857 Walker is overthrown by joint efforts of
with the inhabitants of the country’s Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala and the US. He is
complex society – Nicaraguans tend to later executed in Honduras.
be engagingly witty and exceptionally 1857–1893 “The Thirty Years”: a period of relative
hospitable. The best thing you can do to prosperity. US companies come to dominate Nicara-
enjoy Nicaragua is to arrive with an open guan government.
1893 General José Zelaya seizes control, estab-
mind.
lishing a dictatorship.
1909 Civil war breaks out. 400 US marines land on
Chronology the Caribbean coast. Zelaya resigns.
1000 AD Aztec migrate south after the fall of 1912–1925 US military bases are established.
Teotihuacán (Mexico), following a prophecy that 1927 Augusto Sandino leads a guerrilla campaign
they would settle where they found a lake with two in protest at the US military presence. US takes
volcanoes rising from it – Isla de Ometepe. over Nicaraguan military and develops Nicaraguan
1522 The Spanish arrive and name the region National Guard.
“Nicaragua”, after the indigenous groups living 1934 Under orders of National Guard commander
there. General Anastasio Somoza, Sandino is assassinated.
1524 Spanish establish the settlements of Granada 1937 Somoza “elected” president, commencing
and León. forty-year dictatorship.
407
 1956 Somoza is assassinated by Rigoberto López Miami and Houston. Spirit Airlines
Pérez. One of Somoza’s sons, Luis, becomes interim (w www.spiritair.com) has the best
president, and another, Anastasio, head of the budget flights from North America;
National Guard.
Continental, American Airlines and
1961 Frente Sandinista Liberación Nacional (FSLN),
or Sandinista National Liberation Front, is founded.
Delta also fly North American routes.
1967 Luis Somoza dies; his brother Anastasio You can enter Nicaragua by land
becomes president. from Honduras and Costa Rica (see
nicaragua

1972 Massive earthquake flattens Managua, killing box below). International buses all
some 10,000. pull into Managua, often via Granada
1978 Opposition leader Pedro Chamorro is assas- and Rivas (if coming from the south).
sinated by National Guard; demonstrations and Crossings will be facilitated on inter�
fighting spread across the country. national services such as Tica Bus; it’s
1979 Sandinistas gain control of the country, and
Basics

also possible to take local services to

Somoza is forced to flee. Revolution is officially
and from the border.
won on July 19. Liberal Sandinistas are in control
of government.
There is a water crossing from the
1981 Unhappy with Nicaragua’s left-wing policies border at Los Chiles, Costa Rica (see
and communist ties, the US funds Contra troops in box, p.573), to San Carlos; from here it
an anti-Sandinista campaign. is a 10–12hr bus ride or 1hr plane ride
1984 FSLN’s Daniel Ortega wins presidential on to Managua.
election.
1988 FSLN and Contras sign a ceasefire. visas
1990 Violeta Chamorro defeats Daniel Ortega to
American, Australian, British, Canadian
become Latin America’s first female president. US
cuts off aid to Contras.
and most EU nationals do not currently
1996–2001 Right-wing Arnoldo Alemán, former require visas. There is a US$5 entry fee,
mayor of Managua, serves as president. which you pay upon arrival. You will
1998 Hurricane Mitch devastates region. also receive a tourist card at this time,
2001 Alemán’s vice president, Enrique Bolaños, is which allows for stays of thirty to ninety
elected. days depending on your nationality.
2002–03 Alemán is jailed on charges of embezzle- The permitted length of your visit will
ment and money laundering. be hand-written on the entry stamp in
2004–05 The World Bank and Russia clear much of
your passport. While all tourist cards
the country’s debts, as part of the Heavily Indebted
allow for thirty days entry, it is only the
Poor Countries Initiative.
2006 Former president Ortega wins the November
number written in your passport that
elections and returns to power.
land and sea routes
to nicaragua

Basics
Nicaragua shares borders with Costa
Rica and Honduras. The busiest
Nicaraguan land entry/exit point is
at Peñas Blancas (see p.458), on the
southern border with Costa Rica.
ARRIVAL Los Chiles in Costa Rica provides
If arriving on an international flight, a water crossing further east, to
you’ll land at Augusto C. Sandino San Carlos on the Río San Juan.
The two main border crossings with
International Airport (MGA) in
Honduras in the north, meanwhile,
Managua. As well as flights from neigh-
are at Guasaule (see p.436) and
bouring capitals such as San José and Las Manos (see p.439), with the
San Salvador (served mainly by COPA latter providing easiest access to
and TACA), Managua receives direct Tegucigalpa.
flights from major US hubs Atlanta,
408
 addresses in nicaragua
Nicaraguan towns are usually set up in a vague grid system, with a commercial
build-up around the parque central and main streets, and residential
neighbourhoods sprawling outwards from the centre. Only main streets are
labelled with signs, and even the cities (except Granada) lack names for most
of their streets. Smaller towns do not have any street names at all, depending

nicaragua
instead on their direction from the main square: calles go east–west and avenidas
north–south, with a central calle and avenida acting as the grid’s axis. Calles and
avenidas northeast of the main park are generally designated noreste (NE), those
northwest are noroeste (NO), southeast are sureste (SE) and southwest suroeste
(SO). There is no set numbering system for streets in Nicaraguan towns, and this,
combined with the lack of street names, result in addresses that refer to locations’

Basics
proximity to local landmarks, such as churches, rotundas or traffic circles, malls,
banks, restaurants and gas stations. This is especially the case in Managua, whose
confusing orientation makes it worthy of a box unto itself (see p.419).

counts. Check with your airline to see every thirty minutes, or when the bus is
if the country’s US$35 departure tax full, with last buses leaving by 5 or 6pm.
has been included; otherwise this can Bus stops (never marked) are usually
be paid in the airport before departure. at the local market, and fares are very
As part of the CA-4 agreement (see cheap – generally US$0.75–3. If you
p.48), visitors are granted ninety days are carrying luggage and want to keep
of travel within Nicaragua, Honduras, it with you, you may be charged half-
Guatemala and El Salvador. Thirty-day fare – or even full fare – for the space
extensions can be granted for a fee, and it occupies (otherwise it goes on the
travellers who overstay the limit may roof). Any luggage stored on the roof
face a fine. rack should be free of valuables, or
locked; inside the buses pick-pocketing
Getting around is common, so be sure to keep bags and
Finding your way around Nicaragua is small packs in sight.
half the fun of travelling in the country.
Public transport, especially buses, is By car
geared toward the domestic population,
and is very cheap; bus stops, however, Taxis – many on their last legs – are
are not usually marked and so you will most often seen in cities, but they also
likely have to rely on a local’s assistance make long-distance journeys; a good
to find your destination. deal, especially if in a group, since
drivers charge by the distance travelled.
By bus In Managua, most taxi fares are C$20–
50 during the day, and C$40–80 at
The standard local buses in Nicaragua night. Outside the capital, in-town fares
are the usual old North American school vary, but are usually around C$10–20.
buses, though an increasing number Always negotiate the fare before getting
of express minivans and minibuses into the cab.
also serve the more popular routes Renting a car in Nicaragua is
– only a few córdobas more, they are probably the best way to explore the
less crowded, stop less frequently and country’s many beaches. Rental is
occasionally even have air-conditioning. most reliable in Managua. You need
Most intercity buses begin running a valid licence, passport and a credit
between 4am and 7am, departing about card. Make sure you take out full-cover
409
 insurance, as the number of road operations indefinitely in the country
accidents in Nicaragua is increasing. (though not in Honduras, the airline's
Throughout the country road signage is home country) – check with the airline
quite poor, and you’ll need to ask direc- for the latest information before booking
tions frequently. As with other Central flights. La Costeña operates reliable (and
American countries, don’t drive at very scenic) flights between Managua
night – it’s less a question of crime than and key destinations around the country,
nicaragua

the lack of lighting disguising potholes, including Bluefields, the Corn Islands
sudden deviations in the road or even and Puerto Cabezas, all of which are
the road disappearing altogether, as otherwise difficult to reach. They also
well as cattle straying onto the highway. cover the Managua–San Carlos route
Rates average US$35 a day for the (US$75 or US$116 return).
Basics

cheapest models. A 4WD is necessary

outside of the capital. Accommodation
Nicaraguans are a little surprised to Most budget travellers to Nicaragua at
see foreigners hitching, although it’s some point find themselves in a Nicara-
common for locals to do so. Women guan hospedaje – a small, pension-
only hitch when accompanied by men, type hotel, most often family-owned
and it’s wise to follow this rule as a and run. Most are basic, though some,
traveller. You will be expected to pay especially those in old Spanish colonial-
for your lift, but usually no more than style houses, are truly characterful. As
US$1.50–2, even for trips of a couple of a rule, simple hospedajes charge around
hours. US$4–10 (1 –2 ); most require payment
in cash, often in córdobas. This covers a
By boat bed and fan; in many places you’ll have
to share a bathroom, and breakfast is
Boats provide vital links around
not normally included in the price.
Nicaragua’s numerous waterways and
There are about five hostels in the
two large lakes. You can get part of
country – generally hospedajes take
the way from Managua and the Pacific
their place. Hotels (US$20 and up; 4 )
lowlands to the Atlantic Coast by water;
tend to be more “luxurious”, with air-
once on the eastern side of the country,
conditioning, cable TV and services
nearly all travel runs along the complex
like tours and car rental; you are less
network of rivers and lagoons of
likely to see these in very small towns.
Mosquitia. Journeys are unscheduled,
Throughout the country camping
long and unpredictable. Travellers most
is problematic, although not impos-
commonly take boats between El Rama
sible; sandflies, mosquitoes, rain and
and Bluefields; Rivas or Granada and
theft are only a few of the deterrents to
Ometepe; and Granada or Ometepe and
setting up a tent. If you’re determined,
San Carlos – this route is a notoriously
the most promising areas in which to
long and rough voyage. San Carlos can
camp are beach spots around San Juan
also be accessed by boat from the border
del Sur, Isla Ometepe and the Corn
crossing at Los Chiles.
Islands. See p.35 for an explanation of
the accommodation price codes used
By air in this Guide.
Nicaragua has two private domestic
airlines, La Costeña (w www.tacaregional Food and drink
.com/costena) and Atlantic Airlines Central markets in Nicaraguan towns
(w www.atlanticairlinesint.com), though are guaranteed to have snack spots,
at the time of writing Atlantic had ceased with at least several small comedores
410
or cafetines offering cheap comida
corriente (“running/fast food”), a set
Drink
plate of meat, rice and salad, for around Given Nicaragua’s heat, it’s just as well
US$2.50. Throughout Nicaragua street- that there’s a huge range of cold drinks, or
side kiosks sell hot meals, usually refrescos (usually shortened to frescos),
at lunch time. You’ll soon become available. These are made from grains,
familiar with their plastic tablecloths, seeds and fruits, which are liquidized

nicaragua
paper plates and huge bowls of cabbage with milk, water and ice. Some unusual
salad; the food is cheap, generally well ones to look for include cebada en grano,
prepared and safe to eat. Restaurants a combination of ground barley and
are more expensive, and generally open barley grains mixed with milk, coloured
for lunch and dinner. As in the rest of pink and flavoured with cinnamon and

Basics
Central America, lunch is the main lots of sugar; pinolillo, a spiced maize
meal. and cacao drink; and semilla de Jicaroa
Nicaraguan food is based around the (or “Hickory seed”), which looks and
ubiquitous beans, rice and meat. Every- tastes like chocolate. Just about every
thing is cooked with oil – even the rice fruit imaginable is made into a fresco,
is fried. Meals usually include chicken, including watermelon, granadilla (a
beef or pork, most deliciously cooked passion fruit variety), papaya, pithaya
a la plancha, on a grill or griddle, and (dragon fruit) and rock melon. During
served with gallo pinto (beans and the rainy months, keep your eye out for
rice), plantain, and shredded cabbage pitahaya juice. Made from the fruit of
salad. There’s little difference between a cactus, it’s a virulent purple in colour
breakfast, lunch and dinner, though and incredibly tasty.
breakfast will most likely involve an egg Tap water is generally not friendly to
instead of meat. Roast chicken, pizza tourist stomachs, but bottled water is
and Chinese restaurants also crop up found everywhere, as well as soft drinks.
in most towns. On the Atlantic Coast Nicaragua has two local brands of beer,
the cuisine becomes markedly more Victoria and Toña, both lagers. For
Caribbean. Here rice is often cooked spirits, local Flor de Caña rum comes in
in mild coconut milk, and the staple dark and white, gold, old, dry and light,
fresh coconut bread is delicious. Ron and is an excellent buy at just US$5–10
don (“run down”; in local parlance “to per bottle. It’s usually brought to the
cook”) is a stew of yucca, chayote and table with a large bucket of ice and some
other vegetables, usually with meat lemons, but you can mix it with soft
added, which is traditionally eaten at drinks for something a little less potent.
weekends. Weekends are also the time to A national cocktail, the Macuá – a
eat nacatamales, parcels of corn dough potent combination of white rum and
filled with either vegetables, pork, beef fruit juices (usually lemon and guava)
or chicken, which are wrapped in a – has recently emerged.
banana leaf and boiled for a couple of
hours. Culture and
On the sweeter side, tropical fruit etiquette
is abundant, cheap and delicious. Nicaraguans are generally courteous
Throughout the country you’ll see ice- and appreciate this trait in visitors. It is
cream sellers pushing their Eskimo considered polite to address strangers
carts. The quality isn’t great, but the with “Usted” rather than “Tú”, though
company produces an extraordinary eventually, familiarity usually allows the
range of flavours, including many local use of “Tú” or even “Vos”. You will often
fruits and nuts. hear the term Adiós (literally, “to God”)
411
 popular area (with good tourist
nicaraguan amenities) is around San Juan del
expressions Sur, near the Costa Rican border (see
and phrases p.456) – you’ll find the most surf camps,
Adiós (pronounced a-dee-oss) Used teachers, and board sales or rentals in
as a greeting in passing. this area. The country’s landscape also
Dale pues (pronounced dah-lay provides a good selection of areas for
nicaragua

pway) Literally, “give it, then”, it’s hiking, from stunning volcanoes (like
used to say “ok”, “go on”, “fine”, “it’s those on Isla de Ometepe; see p.460)
on”, etc. to the mountainous Selva Negra forests
Por fa (pronounced as is) A
around Matagalpa (see p.441). On the
shortening of por favor (please).
Atlantic coast, diving and snorkelling
Basics

are a must, particularly on the Corn

used as a greeting – hardly surprising in Islands (see p.475), where you can reach
a country where ninety percent of the wrecks and reefs from right off the beach.
population follows a Christian denomi- Much of the coral is in good condition,
nation. The older generations in partic- and the abundance of undersea
ular are often religiously conservative in wildlife makes for spectacular viewing.
appearance and manner. Accordingly, Nicaragua is also the only country in the
machista attitudes are still prevalent, world currently offering ashboarding
noticeably more so than in neighbouring – essentially using a snowboard to ride
Costa Rica. Female travellers may be the ashes on the Cerro Negro volcano
harassed by cat-calls from local (usually near León (see p.432).
young) men; this is best ignored, and
occurs much less frequently if moving Communications
around within a group or when accom- Most towns in Nicaragua have post
panied by a man. offices (except on the Atlantic coast,
With regard to tipping, most restau- where they are few and far between),
rants, particularly in the capital, will but the mail service is best in Managua.
add a ten- to fifteen-percent service Rates in the capital are also the lowest
charge onto the bill; always check if (a postcard to the US is C$10, C$13
this is included. Elsewhere, tips are not to Europe). Theft from letters is an
expected. increasing problem, especially with
mail sent into the country, so it’s wise
sports and outdoor not to trust cash or anything valuable to
activities the postal service. To locate or contact a
Rather surprisingly for a Latin American post office (generally open 8am–5pm),
country, Nicaragua’s national sport is see W www.correosdenicaragua.com.
baseball, and every town has a field Nicaraguan telephone company
and numerous, active leagues. Ask your Enitel has an office in every town of
local taxi driver about league games, any size throughout the country; in
for which most of the town will turn smaller towns their offices also serve
out in support. Football may be played as a “post office”. There are virtually no
by children in the street, but lacks the coin-operated phones in Nicaragua;
popularity here that it has in other Latin Publitel calling cards (in denomina-
countries. tions of US$5, US$10 and US$20) are
Visiting surfers are drawn to the available from Enitel offices and work
country’s Pacific coast, where there by punching in a designated code. They
seems to be an endless run of deserted can be useful for both domestic and
beaches with great breaks; the most international calls, but only for the
412
 nicaragua ON THE NET
W www.hotelesdenicaragua.net This INTUR-supported site has excellent tourist
information, with listings including hotels, medical facilities and transportation
services.
W www.nicaliving.com Expat forum with some useful tips on travel and news in
Nicaragua.

nicaragua
W www.vianica.com Useful website with contributions from business owners and
expats, good for general information on sights and travel.
W www.visit-nicaragua.com INTUR’s tourism promotions site, with general
information on tourist attractions, cultural activities and amenities.

Basics
latter in larger towns such as Managua, night – especially around the Tica Bus
Granada and León, so it’s often easier station – or to go out alone to bars, and
and cheaper to use phone services at always be alert when leaving banks or
a cybercafé if you want to call home. casas de cambio. It’s a good idea to take a
Mobile phones can be purchased taxi after changing money. Larger hotels
cheaply (from US$12) and used for will have safes where you can leave
making local calls, but the fierce valuables. Wherever you are, women
competition between the two major should be wary of going out alone at
companies, Claro and Movistar, means night, though the chief threat is being
that cross-network calls are extremely harassed by groups of drunken men.
expensive. Local phone numbers The police in Nicaragua are generally
generally have seven digits, formatted reliable, except perhaps the traffic police
as one group of three then a group of (policia de tránsito), who are infamous
four. Calling Nicaragua from abroad, for targeting foreigners and who will
the country code is T 505. take any chance to give you a fine
The proliferation of internet cafés in (multa). To report a crime you must
Nicaragua – you’ll find at least one in go to the nearest police station. If you
even the smallest towns – means that need a police report for an insurance
the internet is the easiest and cheapest claim, the police will ask you to fill out a
method of communication. Rates denuncia – a full report of the incident.
– generally C$10–20 – often rise in If the police station does not have the
smaller or more remote towns, where denuncia forms, ask for a constancia, a
connections can be also painfully slow, simpler form, signed and stamped by
so be patient. the police. This should be sufficient for
an insurance claim.
crime and safety Visitors to Nicaragua should carry
High rates of poverty and unemploy- their passport on them at all times,
ment in Nicaragua have contributed to a though a photocopy is acceptable;
rising crime rate, most often manifested police checks still exist, though are not
to visitors in the form of petty theft, as common as they used to be.
especially on buses. Nicaraguans suffer
from this as well as tourists; locals don’t MEDICAL CARE AND
carry anything valuable in outside EMERGENCIES
pockets, and spread money over several Serious medical situations should be
pockets or purses – you should do the attended to at a hospital; most towns
same. The only place where you really and cities have one. Failing this, find a
need to worry about assault is Managua. Red Cross (Cruz Roja) post, medical
It’s best not to walk around the capital at centre or pharmacy for advice on
413
 only the Banco de América Central
Emergency numbers (BAC) will change them, although at
Police T 118 much poorer rates than cash. Credit
Fire T 115 (or T 911 from cell cards such as Visa and MasterCard are
phones) generally accepted in more expensive
Red Cross T 128 hotels and restaurants and can also be
Traffic police T 119 used to pay for car rental, flights and
nicaragua

tours. All branches of Bancentro and

BAC advance cash on major cards.
treatment. Head for the capital in the
BAC, Bancentro, Banco ProCredit and
case of a serious medical emergency.
Banpro’s ATM machines all accept
Pharmacies are generally open between
foreign-issue cards, and in most reason-
8am and 5pm, although many stay
Basics

able-sized towns you will find at least

open later. Farmacia Medco (T 1-800-
one of these. That said, you can’t rely on
2224) has several branches in Managua,
ATMs alone and, especially out of the
including one at Plaza España and one
major centres, you’ll have little alter-
at Rotonda Bello Horizonte.
native but to carry a decent amount of
money and banks cash. There are currently no ATMs in
the Río San Juan area or on Little Corn
Nicaragua’s currency is the córdoba Island.
(C$), which is divided into 100
centavos; at the time of writing, the Information and maps
exchange rate was C$19 to US$1. Notes
come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, The national tourist board, INTUR
100 and 500 córdobas; coins come in (w www.intur.gob.ni), has information
denominations of 1 and 5 córdobas, offices throughout the country, with
and 25 and 50 centavos. Get rid of the largest in Managua, and although
C$100 and C$500 notes when you the staff are usually friendly and well
can – in most places they’re about as intentioned, they generally only speak
welcome as a stack of Russian rubles, Spanish and can’t offer much practical
and no one ever has change. US dollars help; you’re unlikely to come away with
are very useful across Nicaragua, much more than a bunch of colourful
although US$100 bills can usually only leaflets. Ask for a copy of the quarterly
be changed at a bank. Between the Waves magazine (free), a
Banks are usually open from 8am to useful English-language publication
4pm and may close for an hour or so geared towards expats and travellers.
over lunch (12.30–1.30pm); many are It’s packed with articles on history,
also open on Saturday mornings until business, tourist activities and destina-
noon. Most will change US dollars, but tions within Nicaragua, often including
no other currency. Currency-exchange up-to-date transport schedules. If
houses, called casas de cambio (mostly INTUR doesn’t have it, you should be
found only in Managua), are another able to pick it up in selected restau-
option for changing dollars and also rants, travel agencies, embassies and
traveller’s cheques, but you will not get bigger hotels.
the best exchange rates. Moneychangers You can pick up a useful map of
(coyotes) operate in the street, usually at Managua in the city’s INTUR office,
the town market, though it’s easy to get although paper maps of other cities
ripped off here. (save perhaps Granada and León) are
One of the main hassles of Nicaragua usually very hard to come by. Handy
is the refusal of many banks to acknowl- downloadable maps are available at
edge the existence of traveller’s cheques; w www.ineter.gob.ni under “mapas”,
414
 Festivals
Public holidays
Nicaragua’s calendar includes plenty
January 1 New Year’s Day of festivals, everything from local
Easter week Semana Santa events to nationally celebrated fiestas.
May 1 Labour Day In addition, each town in Nicaragua
July 19 Anniversary of the has its own patron saint whose saint’s
Revolution

nicaragua
day is observed with processions and
September 14 Battle of San Jacinto celebrations called Toro Guaco, during
September 15 Independence Day which you might catch a glimpse of
November 2 All Souls’ Day (Día de old customs inherited from the Aztecs
los Muertos) mixed with mestizo figures like the
December 7 & 8 Inmaculada masked viejitos (old ones – masks of

Basics
Concepción old men and women worn by young
December 25 Christmas Day and old alike). In all cases, Nicaraguans
love to dance, and you will probably see
and W www.eaai.com.ni has two useful folkloric dances in the streets, usually
free maps. performed by children. The calendar
below only lists as few highlights of the
Opening hours and nation’s celebrations.
March–April At Easter the whole country packs
public holidays up and goes to the beach: buses are packed, hotel
Shops and services in Nicaragua still rooms are at a premium, and flights to the Corn
observe Sunday closing: otherwise Islands are fully booked. Semana Santa (Holy Week)
you’ll find most things open from 8am processions, in which crowds follow pasos (depic-
to 4pm. Many businesses, museums tions of Christ and the Virgin), are the biggest in
Granada.
and sites close for lunch, normally
May The Atlantic coastal town of Bluefields
shutting their doors between noon and celebrates Palo de Mayo, an adapted May Day
2pm, before reopening again until 4 or fiesta flavoured with the Caribbean rhythms of
5pm. Supermarkets, smaller grocery reggae and soca – a fusion of dance and folklore.
shops and the small neighbour- July The holiday marking the Revolution (July 19),
hood shops called pulperías or ventas is still celebrated ardently by Sandinistas and is
generally stay open until 8pm. Bars usually accompanied by parades and marches;
and restaurants tend to close around in Managua, the Plaza de la Revolución fills with
11pm or midnight, except for night- Sandinista supporters, who gather in memory of the
historical events.
clubs and dance clubs – most of which
December–January Throughout much of the
are in Managua – which stay open
country, New Year’s Eve is mainly celebrated in
until 2am or later. Public holidays (see the home, although San Juan del Sur is known for
box above) see almost everything shut drawing a crowd of young revellers. Bear in mind
down, so don’t plan on visiting tourist you’ll find most things closed on January 1.
attractions over those dates.

415
 Managua and
the city occupies a key position in the
nation’s economy and psyche, and offers

around
more practical services than anywhere
else in the country.

Hotter than an oven and crisscrossed What to see and do

by anonymous highways, there can’t be
nicaragua

a more visitor-unfriendly capital than For the visitor, sprawling Managua

MANAGUA. Less a city in the conven- can thankfully be divided into a few
tional sense than a conglomeration distinct areas. The old ruined centre
of neighbourhoods and commercial on the lakeshore, finally undergoing
redevlopment, is the site of the city’s
districts, Managua offers few sights
tourist attractions, including the few
Managua and around

and cultural experiences – in fact, most

impressive colonial-style buildings
visitors are so disturbed by the lack of
that have survived all the earthquakes.
street names and any real centre that
Lago de Managua, which forms such a
they get out as fast as they can.
pretty backdrop to this part of the city,
Not even the city’s setting on the
is, unfortunately, severely polluted
southern shore of Lago de Managua
from sewage and regular dumpings of
is particularly pleasant: the area is low-
garbage and chemical waste.
lying, swampy and flat, relieved only by Just to the south, but visible from
a few eroded volcanoes. It also, unfor- everywhere, is the city’s main landmark,
tunately, sits on top of an astounding the Crowne Plaza, formerly the Hotel
eleven seismic faults, which have InterContinental (not to be confused
shaken the city severely over time. with the new InterContinental Metro-
The result has been a cycle of ruin and centro hotel in the south of the city),
rebuilding, which has created a bizarre whose white form, reminiscent of a
and postmodern mixture of crumbling Maya pyramid, sails above the city.
ruins inhabited by squatters, hastily Walking just west of the Crowne Plaza
constructed concrete structures and and twelve or so blocks south of the
gleaming new shopping malls and old ruined city centre brings you to
hotels. The old city centre, damaged the backpacker-frequented barrio
further in the Revolution of 1978–79 Marta Quezada. Here, rock-bottom
and never thoroughly repaired, remains prices and proximity to international
eerily abandoned. bus connections somewhat make
All this said, there are things to up for the area’s notorious reputa-
enjoy here, although being a tourist in tion as dangerous, crime-ridden
Managua does require a good degree of barrio. A further 2km south, around
tenacity. Also, as Nicaragua’s largest city Plaza España, you’ll find many of
and home to a quarter of its population, the city’s banks, airline offices and

safety in managua
While the country of Nicaragua remains one of the safest destinations in Central
America, gang warfare is a problem, and certain parts of Managua (Villa Revolución,
for example) are stamping grounds for pandillas, young thugs who won’t think
twice about robbing you or locals. While it’s unlikely you’d be hanging around these
areas anyway, tourists have also recently been robbed in broad daylight in barrio
Marta Quezada, so it’s to your benefit to be on guard wherever you are in the city. If
you’re alone it’s advisable to take a taxi after dark instead of getting around on foot,
even for short distances.

416
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417
 a well-stocked La Colonia super- Catedral Vieja
market. In the southeast of the city, On the eastern side of the evolving Plaza
a new commercial district has grown de la Revolución stands the wreckage
up along the Carretera a Masaya, of the ash-grey Catedral Santiago de
the main thoroughfare through the los Caballeros. Known as the Catedral
southern part of the city. East of here Vieja, the ruins are an eerie monument
lies the Metrocentro shopping centre to a destroyed city. Birds fly through the
nicaragua

and upmarket residential suburb of interior, where semi-exposed murals

Altamira. and leaning stone angels with cracked
wings still line the walls. Plans to restore
Plaza de la Revolución the cathedral are continually made and
At the heart of the old centre is the then shelved; for the time being, the
Managua and around

Plaza de la Revolución, flanked on all building remains officially closed to

sides by city landmarks, including the visitors.
cathedral ruins, the lavish Casa Presi-
dencial, the Palacio Nacional and Palacio Nacional de La
the park containing Carlos Fonseca’s Cultura
tomb (marked by an eternal flame). The lovely blue-marble and cream-
The tomb, which serves as a memorial stucco exterior of the Palacio
to the FSLN founder, is graced with Nacional, next to the cathedal, holds
a seemingly endless supply of fresh a darker history. During the long
bouquets and fringed by a row of huge years of Somoza rule the columned
black and red flags, and each year building was the seat of government
on July 19 thousands of Sandinista power: Colombian writer Gabriel
supporters make a pilgrimage to the García Márquez called it “el partenón
area, paying homage to the revolu- bananero” – the banana parthenon.
tionary and the ensuing Sandinista Then, on August 22, 1978, Sandinista
movement. The Plaza de la Revolución commandos disguised as National
itself tends to undergo a facelift about Guard soldiers ran through its
once per presidential term – the most corridors to capture the deputies of
recent changes included the removal the National Assembly, a cinematic
of its running fountain and colourful coup d’état that effectively brought
light display, and conversion to a down the Somoza dictatorship.
pedestrian-only space. Today, the Palacio, still a functioning

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 navigating managua
In a city where nobody uses street names (if they actually exist) or addresses,
it’s helpful to have your destination given to you in terms of neighbourhood and
distance from a landmark – taxi drivers will most easily find places in relation to
a well-known city fixture. For destinations around barrio Marta Quezada, use the
Crowne Plaza, Tica Bus terminal, Cine Dorado (now closed), or Montoya statue as a

nicaragua
reference point; the Metrocentro shopping centre is a useful landmark around Zona
Hippos and Los Robles.
Distances are measured in metres as much as in blocks – in local parlance,
100m is a city block, or cuadra. Sometimes an archaic measure, the vara, is also
used: one vara (a yard) is interpreted as roughly equivalent to a metre. To confuse
the issue still further, many Managuans do not use the cardinal points in their usual

Managua and around

form: in Managua north becomes al lago – towards the lake; al sur is south; arriba
– literally, “up”, is to the east; and abajo, “down”, is to the west. So, “del Hotel
InterContinental (now the Crowne Plaza, although many people still use its old
name) una cuadra arriba y dos cuadras al lago” means one block east and two
blocks north of the Crowne Plaza.

government building, also houses the Centro Cultural Managua

national library and archives, and a Immediately southwest of the Palacio
museum and art gallery (Mon–Fri National is a distinctive green building
8am–noon & 2–5pm, US$2; Sat 8am– housing the Centro Cultural Managua
noon, Sun 9am–4pm, free). There’s (t 222-2068). The former home of the
a good display of Nicaraguan handi- Gran Hotel, the exterior of the low-
crafts, colourful murals and large slung, mock-colonial structure gives
sculptures, plus a few pre-Columbian you a bit of an idea of how pre-earth-
artefacts. The museum frequently quake Managua looked. Inside, the
holds cultural and artistic events of downstairs area hosts sporadic exhibi-
dance, poetry and artesanía; ask at tions and seminars, including the
reception about upcoming events. Sábado de Artesanía, a crafts fair held
on the first Saturday of each month.
Casa Presidencial Prices are higher than in the outdoor
The plaza’s north side is home to a Mercado Roberto Huembes (see p.426),
salmon-and-mustard eyesore, the but lower than in the galerías and art
Casa Presidencial, completed in shops. The centre’s upper floors house
2000. Constructed against the advice many of the country’s arts organiza-
of seismologists, the building is an tions; it’s worth going upstairs just to
unflattering monument to the style see the historic photographs lining
and substance of Arnoldo Alemán’s the corridor. Some show Managua
corrupt presidency and a pale before the 1972 earthquake – it was an
imitation of the far more arresting attractive city of palm trees and some
Palacio Nacional opposite, whose style colonial architecture – while others,
it apes but fails to match. The Ortega taken immediately following the quake,
administration has seen the building show crumpled buildings, crushed cars
renamed La Casa de Los Pueblos (“the and gaping holes in the road.
house of the villages”), to demonstrate
his government’s empathy with its Teatro Nacional Rubén
people. Housing Ortega’s offices, the Darío
building is off-limits to the general Perched like a huge white futurist bird
public. north of the Plaza de la Revolución is the
419
 Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío (Mon– though it looks better at night when
Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm; floodlighting adds some definition to
t 222-7426, w www.tnrubendario.gob its vast expanse.
.ni), Managua’s main cultural venue.
Foreign orchestras and dance troupes Museo Huellas de
on tour perform here, along with Acahualinca
Nicaraguan theatre groups. It’s worth Volcán Mombotombo’s capacity for
nicaragua

going inside the building just to see destruction is evoked in the Museo
the massive chandeliers, marble floors Huellas de Acahualinca (Mon–Fri
and stirring view out to the lake from 8am–5pm, Sat 9am–4pm; US$2),
the enormous second-floor windows. just west of the malecón in barrio
South of the theatre is the Monumento Acahualinca (take a taxi or bus #112),
a Rubén Darío, a striking sculpted
Managua and around

a rudimentary and under-funded affair

memorial to the iconic poet (see p.431), but still worth a look for a glimpse into
restored in 1997. the area’s history. On display are animal
and human footprints from prehistoric
Malecón nomads – preserved in volcanic ash, the
North of the theatre, a determined footprints date back between 6000 and
attempt has been made to spruce up the 10,000 years.
previously seedy lakeshore boardwalk,
or malecón, with bars and food kiosks, Loma de Tiscapa
plus a couple of fairground rides. A Directly behind the landmark Crowne
statue of Latin American liberator Plaza, a path winds upwards (about a
Simón Bolívar sits in the middle of 30min walk or brief taxi ride) to the
the nearby roundabout, guarding the Loma de Tiscapa, or Tiscapa Histor-
shorefront’s entrance. The area gets ical National Park, which overlooks
quite lively at weekends, though it’s the small and unremarkable Laguna
fairly deserted during the week except Tiscapa in the centre of the city. Here
for stray kissing teenage couples. There you’ll find the bunker-like remains of
are pleasant views to the north from the El Chipote, formerly Somoza’s presi-
malecón, where Volcán Mombotombo dential palace and prison, where many
and little Mombotombito sit side by Sandinistas were held and tortured
side against the horizon on the far shore during the regime. Above the prison
of the lake, 50km away. sits a silhouetted statue of Sandino,
marking the spot of the revolutionary
Plaza de la Fe San Juan leader’s assassination; nearby lie a
Pablo II tank and statue donated to Somoza by
Just south of (or opposite) the Mussolini, relics of the former regime.
malecón is the vast Plaza de la Fe Juan The views of the city from here are
Pablo II, a square whose central excellent, stretching north to Lago de
obelisk commemorates Pope John Nicaragua and the distant volcanoes
Paul II’s two visits to Nicaragua. You’ll and south beyond the new cathedral
also find here the Concha Acústica or towards Masaya. They can be enjoyed
“acoustic shell” statue (resembling a by canopy tour, if you’re feeling adven-
large white wave), which serves as a turous (Tue–Sun 9am–5pm; US$15;
stage for public concerts and shows. t 886-2836 or 872-2555). Three cables
Like the malecón, the plaza is rarely cover over a kilometre, allowing you to
busy (unless there is an event, perhaps glide high above the city and lagoon.
three or four times a year), and is also Note that the whole area is closed to the
one of the fiercest suntraps in the city, public on Mondays.
420
Carretera a Masaya and
Arrival and information
the Metrocentro
About 1km south of the laguna is By air The Augusto César Sandino
Managua’s biggest concentration of International Airport is 11km east of Managua;
residential and commercial neighbour- on arrival, you’ll have to pay a US$5 entry fee.
hoods. The main thoroughfare through Designated airport taxis wait just outside the
terminal doors; reportedly safer and always
this part of the city is the Carretera a

nicaragua
air-conditioned, these cost US$12–15 for
Masaya, hemmed in to the east by journeys to most parts of the city. The drivers are
the embassy neighbourhood of all registered and wear white uniforms. If you
Altamira and to the west by La UCA, cross the street from the airport you can catch
or the Universidad Centroamericana. a normal taxi (at your own risk), which shouldn’t
It’s on this road, just south of Pista Juan cost more than C$100. There are several ATMs

Managua and around

Pablo II, where you’ll find the Metro- here, and the Banco de la Producción has a
centro shopping centre, which boasts window where you can change dollars but not
traveller’s cheques. You’ll also find car rental
shops, a food court, banks, a cinema
agencies in the arrivals hall at the northern end
and the InterContinental Metrocentro of the airport.
hotel. By bus Most international services come into
barrio Marta Quezada in central Managua (see
Catedral Nueva p.427 for international terminals). Domestic
A short walk from the Metrocentro buses arrive at one of the several crowded,
shopping centre, in the middle of a noisy and generally chaotic urban marketplaces
field, is the Catedral Metropolitana that also serve as bus terminals: from Masaya,
Granada, Rivas or other southern destinations,
de la Purísima Concepción, known
you’ll come into the Mercado Roberto Huembes
simply as the Catedral Nueva, a near the Carretera a Masaya on the southeastern
remarkably unorthodox piece of archi- edge of the city; buses from the north and east
tecture whose roof resembles a collec- – including Estelí, Matagalpa, Jinotega, San
tion of large concrete hand grenades. Carlos and El Rama – arrive at the terminal in the
The interior (open for worship daily Mercado Mayoreo in barrio Concepción, near the
6am–10pm) is rather stark, with a airport; buses from the northwest towns of León
bleeding figure of Christ encased and Chinandega use the busy Mercado Israel
Lewites in the southwest of the capital. Regular
in glass being the only interesting
express minivans from Masaya and Granada pull
feature, while the gift shop outside into a small unmarked terminal on the highway
sells an amazing variety of religious opposite La UCA, near the Metrocentro. Taxis
paraphernalia, including literature and crowd the arriving buses, so moving on from the
ornaments. markets should not be a problem.

Tour operators in managua

Given the largely erratic schedules of Nicaraguan transport, if you’re short of time
it’s worth considering an organized tour – particularly to remote or difficult to reach
areas like the Solentiname Archipelago or the Río San Juan.
Careli Tours Opposite El Colegio Pedagógico, Planes de Altamira t278-6919,
w www.carelitours.com. Good for best-of-Nicaragua type packages as well as trips
combining Nicaragua and Costa Rica, both lasting around a week.
Nicaragua Tours t449-9333 or 777/798-1591 (US toll-free), w www
.nicaraguatours.org. Well-organized company with half-day tours from US$45
– explore Masaya market and volcano, or the Pueblos Blancos. Prices include pick-
up and drop-off at all hotels in Managua.

421
 Tourist information There is an under-stocked Taxis Taxis are cheap and plentiful in Managua,
INTUR desk at the airport. The INTUR headquarters with most trips costing around C$20–50 (always
are in central Managua, one block south and one agree on a price before setting off). Drivers
block west of the Crowne Plaza (Mon–Fri 8.30am– always like to have more than one passenger
12.30pm & 1.30–5pm; t 254-5191, w www.intur at a time, and will stop to pick up and drop off
.gob.ni). The staff are well-intentioned and some people en-route (if travelling alone, it’s recom-
speak English, but don’t have much in the way of mended that you sit up front next to the driver).
hand-outs; however, it’s worth buying the excellent Legitimate taxis have red licence plates and are
nicaragua

city map of Managua (US$5) from them, if officially registered; locals will tell you that these
available. You should also be able to pick up a copy are safer and more reliable. Generally cheap, and
of the free quarterly English-language magazine with friendly, talkative drivers, they are always
Between The Waves (also available in embassies in good supply – as a tourist, taxis will honk at
and at selected hotels, restaurants, tourist offices, you as a matter of course, whether you want one
travel agencies and airports throughout Nicaragua), or not.
Managua and around

which has well-written features on travel, history,

business and tourist activities as well as news, Accommodation
mini-guides for various towns and cities, and
selected transport schedules. Barrio Marta Quezada, the site of most inter-
national bus terminals, is the place for cheap,
City transport hospedaje-type accommodation; most places are
scattered in a two-block radius on either side of
Buses Buses, generally labelled with a route the Tica Bus terminal. Arriving at the station, you
number, cover the main city routes (see box will be met by touts, usually children, offering to
below, for useful passages). The fares are dirt- take you to a hospedaje; they receive a fee from
cheap (about C$2–5), but pick-pocketing is hotel owners for bringing people off the buses.
common and aided by the crush of bodies on There’s no harm in going with them, since you’re
these routes, so be alert. Fares are paid in cash, under no obligation to stay if you don’t like the
on board – change is scarce for larger notes so hospedaje they take you to. Do not pay the tout
use coins and smaller bills whenever possible. If directly, as they may inflate the room price to cover
unsure of your destination, ask the driver to point their fee. Elsewhere in the city, you’ll likely find
out stops, which are unmarked. Services start neighbourhoods more secure and friendly than
at 5am and continue until 10pm, becoming less Marta Quezada, although taxis and buses will be
frequent from about 6pm onwards. necessary for transport.

Useful Managua Bus routes

The following routes are some of the useful stops and connections on public
transport:
#108 Reparto Schick–Primavera Carretera Norte, Mercado Oriental, Nueva
Rotunda Santo Domingo, Máximo Jeréz, Altamira D’Este, Mercado Huembes.
#109 Hospital Lenin Fonseca–Reparto Schick Malecón, Teatro Nacional Rubén
Darío, Centro Cultural, Palacio Nacional, Plaza Inter, Hospital Bautista, Mercado
Huembes.
#110 Seminario Nacional–Mercado Mayoreo Las Piedrecitas, Mercado Israel
Lewites, La UCA, Rotonda Rubén Darío, Rotonda Santo Domingo, Altamira, Centro
Comercial Managua, Mercado Huembes, Mercado Iván Montenegro.
#112 Centro Cívico–Villa Libertad Mercado Israel Lewites, Museo Huellas de
Acahualinca, Malecón, Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío, Carretera Norte, Mercado Iván
Montenegro.
#113 Ciudad Sandino–Mercado Oriental Las Piedrecitas, American Embassy,
Montoya Statue, Marta Quezada, Plaza Inter.
#119 Refinería–Villa San Jacinto Las Brisas, Rotonda Güegüense/Plaza España,
UCA, Metrocentro, Los Robles, Altamira, Rotonda Centroamérica, Colonia Centro
América, Mercado Huembes.

422
Barrio Marta Quezada Managua Backpackers Inn 75 varas south
and around of Chamán nightclub, Los Robles t267-
Apartamentos Los Cisneros One block north and 0006 or 414-4114, wwww.managuahostel.com. A
one and a half blocks west of the Tica Bus terminal well-located, friendly and perennially busy hostel
t 222-3535/7273, wwww.hotelloscisneros. with tidy dorms and private rooms, some with en-
com. The sole “upmarket” option in the heart of suite bathroom. There’s a courtyard garden with a
Marta Quezada, offering self-contained two-person pool, shaded by a mango tree and surrounded by

nicaragua
apartments with fridge, cooker, breakfast bar and deck chairs and hammocks, large communal
optional fan or a/c. Singles 4 –6 , doubles 5 –7 kitchen and TV room, free internet and laundry
Casa Castillo One block west and one and a half services. Dorms 2 , singles 4 , doubles 4 –5
blocks north of Tica Bus t222-2265. Hospitable, Nicaragua Guest House Two blocks south and
family-run hospedaje with basic (if rather dowdy) two and a half blocks west of Rotonda La Virgen
rooms with private bath; the ones right at the back t249-8963, wwww.3dp.ch/nicaragua. A small
and upstairs are larger and quieter. Singles 2 , guesthouse with basic rooms, all en-suite with

Managua and around

doubles 3 TV and a fan or a/c, and a cool courtyard garden.
Casa Gabrinma One block south and half a block Don’t miss the strict 11pm curfew. Singles 3 –5 ,
east of Tica Bus t222-6650. Welcoming and friendly doubles 4 –5
guesthouse where the tidy rooms – all with ceiling
fans – are set around a leafy inner courtyard. 2
treat yourself
Casa Real Planes Two blocks
Euro One block west and half a block south of
west, two blocks south and half a
Plaza Inter shopping centre t 222-4045, wwww
block east of the Rotunda Rubén Darío
.hoteleuronic.com. A newer hotel, with lots of
t278-3838, wwww.hcasareal
varnished wood and gleaming tiles indoors despite
.com. A spotless, family-run hotel
the concrete, bunker-like exterior. Cable TV, a/c
with spacious, clean rooms (with TV,
and hot water come standard, though the upstairs
a/c, and private bath) are grouped
rooms are actually brighter and better value.
around a leafy inner lounge with
There’s also a sunny swimming pool out back.
huge hammocks; upstairs rooms are
Singles 4 –5 , doubles 6 –7
brighter, with balconies. Breakfast
Los Felipe One and a half blocks west of Tica Bus
included. Singles 8 , doubles 8
t 222-6501/7050, e [email protected]. This
friendly hotel has 27 clean if slightly cheerless
rooms nestled amid an urban jungle of tropical
foliage. All come with private bath and TV, and there Eating
are internet and laundry services available as well
as a swimming pool and restaurant. Singles 3 –4 , Wherever you walk in Managua – on the street, at
doubles 4 –5 the bus stop or even under a shady tree – you will
Hospedaje Santos One block north and one find someone selling a drink or a comida corriente.
and a half blocks west of Tica Bus t222-3713. Good, cheap food on the hoof is also easy to get
Sprawling, ramshackle hospedaje popular among in any of Managua’s major markets – look out for
travellers, with tons of atmosphere, funky art on pupusas, actually a Salvadoran concoction of cheese,
the walls and an indoor patio with cable TV. Rooms, tortillas, sauce and meat. You can also fill up on
however, are dark and none too clean – try to get greasy, delicious food from any of the eateries down
one upstairs, where ventilation is better. All have on Managua’s malecón. Hygienically speaking, the
ceiling fan, and some come with private bath. food is safe to eat, and you can get a decent meal for
Singles 2 , doubles 3 as little as two dollars. Managua also has a surpris-
ingly cosmopolitan selection of restaurants: Chinese,
Elsewhere in the city Spanish, Mexican, Japanese, Italian, Peruvian, North
Casa San Juan C Esperanza 560, behind La UCA American – even vegetarian. Cafés are thin on the
t 278-3220, wwww.hotelcasasanjuan ground, though, and the ones that do exist tend to be
.com. Welcoming mid-range guesthouse in a quiet frequented by expats and wealthier Managuans.
neighbourhood. The spacious and spotless rooms
come with a/c, cable TV and well-equipped modern, Barrio Marta Quezada
private bathrooms. Breakfast is included and other and around
meals are available with advance notice. The hotel Ananda Next to the Montoya statue: from
is popular, so reserve in advance. Singles 6 , the Cine Dorado, walk two blocks towards
doubles 6 , triple 7 the lake then eight blocks west. An excellent
423
 vegetarian restaurant set around a covered patio and other sweet treats as well as fresh coffee
and garden, this place is a veritable oasis amid (C$14–40), sandwiches, bagels & cream cheese
Managua’s concrete chaos. There’s a varied menu (C$25) and salads (C$70). There’s also a branch at
including a good-value plato del día, nice bread and Km 4 Carretera Norte.
superb milkshakes (C$20) – try the papaya. A meal Ola Verde Planes de Altamira, 2 blocks west
plus drink will cost around C$60–80. Closed Sun. and half a block north of Pharoah’s Casino.
Buffet La Vista One and a half blocks west of the A fantastic vegetarian-friendly restaurant with
on-site organic shop selling Nicaraguan fair-trade
nicaragua

Tica Bus station. One of many eateries of the plastic

chairs-outside-a-house variety, serving a largely products. Most main dishes will set you back about
local clientele, La Vista offers tasty and good-value C$100–160, but the locally-sourced produce is fresh
plates with open-grilled meat, rice, beans and salad and the menu is inventive and delicious; try a Maya
(C$45). nut speciality or the goat’s cheese lasagna, C$140.
Café Tonallí Two blocks east and half a block Closed Mon.
south of Tica Bus. Principally a bakery selling Pizzeria Valenti’s One block east of Domino’s Pizza,
Managua and around

whole-wheat and specialist breads, there are also house no. 6 t278-7474. An outside patio, ice-cold
a few tables in a leafy garden where you can enjoy mug of draught beer and one of Valenti’s thin-crust
healthy dishes like veggie lasagna and pesto. Good pizzas; filling and good value considering the area, a
breakfasts served, too: muesli, fruit and yogurt pizza and a beer will cost about C$100.
(C$25), fresh coffee (C$6) and croissants baked on La Terraza Peruana Planes de Altamira No. 14,
the premises. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm. 150m south of Ola Verde. In a pretty setting with
Las Cazuelas One block east of Hospedaje Santos. outdoor terraced seating, La Terraza offers typical
A small restaurant with a nice atmosphere, red- Peruvian dishes such as ceviche and tiradito
checked tablecloths and a huge menu of local and (C$150) or aji de gallina (C$110), as well as chica
international cuisine in the heart of barrio Marta morada (a purple corn drink; C$20). Beautifully
Quezada. A meal will set you back around C$80–100. prepared and mouth-wateringly delicious, it’s worth
Cocinarte One block south of the INTUR office. A the slight splurge. Closed Mon.
large, open-air restaurant under a thatched palm
roof, offering yummy international vegetarian
treat yourself

dishes such as chickpea masala (C$80), cauliflower For an all-you-can-eat, all-you-

cheese (C$80) and falafel with pita and hummus can-drink smorgasbord, head to
the champagne brunch at the
(C$70). Closed Sun.
Hotel Real InterContinental
Comida Sarah’s Opposite Hospedaje Santos.
Metrocentro (t276-8989).
Despite the dilapidated exterior, lack of menu and
Held on Sun only, this brunch
busy, roadside location, Sarah’s is great for huge,
is hugely popular (particularly
cheap (C$40–80) servings of simple, filling food like
with groups of international
veggie soups, pasta and chicken dishes.
volunteers on holiday) and
Mirna’s One block west and south of the Tica Bus
usually requires a reservation.
terminal. This small, family-run place has become
There’s mountains of pastas, salads,
something of an institution. They’re open from
meats, sushi and scrumptious
6.30am (7am on Sun) for típica or gringo breakfasts
desserts, as well as unlimited
and you can tuck into the comida casera buffet
champagne, all for US$30. Go with
(C$60) from noon until 3pm.
an empty stomach and prepare for
Norma Half a block south of Hospedaje Santos. A
a feast.
simple branch of a bakery chain, where you can
pick up a coffee and cake for C$20.
Tipico Doña Pilar One block east of Hospedaje
Santos. Another good neighbourhood eatery with Drinking and nightlife
simple plastic chairs and a large grill set on the
sidewalk. A plate of comida típica (try the grilled Managua’s nightlife has been given a shot in the
chicken) will set you back C$50 (drink included). arm in the last decade or so with the return of some
of the “Miami Boys” – businessmen and influential
Metrocentro and around families who had fled revolutionary Nicaragua to
Don Pan One and a half blocks south of Monte de settle in Miami – who have helped drive the demand
Los Olivos. The most renowned bakery in town, with for upmarket bars and discos. The city offers a good
a modern café in front where you can enjoy their choice of venues for drinking and dancing for those
mouth-watering selection of croissants, pastries on a budget as well as the plusher options, as most
424
places only charge a few dollars cover and drinks are regular live music and the occasional rock-centric
either included in the cover charge, or cost around talent contests are worth a look. Thurs is ladies’ night
US$1–3 (C$20–60). Musically, you can expect to (free entry), while cover charge is usually US$3–4.
hear the strains of merengue, salsa, reggaeton, pop, Hipa Hipa Plaza Coconut Grove, half a block west
electronic music and even Nica rancho music (not and two blocks south of Distribuidora Vicky. Trendy
unlike American country). club with three dance floors. Regularly packed
on weekends with a young, hedonistic crowd
Bars

nicaragua
– including a good few gringos – grooving to salsa,
Art-Café Opposite the Las Palmas park t 607- merengue, reggaeton, hip hop and techno. Cover
5104. A café/bar/cultural space, with a yummy charge is US$5–10, often including at least one
Mexican menu on Sun (US$2–5), and live music drink; on Wed (ladies’ night) women enter free.
shows where you’ll hear everything from trova to Matrix On the Carretera a Masaya, opposite
reggae. Cover US$2–4. the Hilton hotel. A busy nightclub popular with a
Bar Shannon Two blocks east of Los Felipe. Estab- younger, largely local crowd, where everybody

Managua and around

lished Irish-owned bar in the heart of barrio Marta dances into the small hours. Cover is usually
Quezada. The clientele is a good mix of locals and C$100–200 for men and C$50–100 for women,
travellers, and though you can’t always bank on with free drinks at happy hour (10pm–midnight).
getting a Guinness they do sell London Pride (C$35). Beer C$18.
The owner can direct you to the popular late-night Moods Second floor of the Galerias Santo Domingo.
drinking and dancing spots on the fast-changing One of the swankiest nightspots in town, Moods
Managuan scene. Toña (local beer) C$18. stands out for its excellent DJs spinning electronic
La Casa de Los Mejía Godoy Colonia Los Robles, music, fancy cocktails (C$40–80) and hip crowd.
opposite the Crowne Plaza t222-6610, wlosmejia Cover C$100–300.
godoy.zonaxp.com. The brainchild of Nicaraguan Ruta Maya 150m east from the Montoya statue
guitar-playing and song-writing brothers Luis t268-0698. Another cultural centre/bar which
Enrique and Carlos Mejía Godoy, this is a cultural plays host to a diverse cross-section of the city’s
centre and bar rolled into one. There’s an art gallery, musical and artistic talent (Thurs, Fri & Sat) and
CD and bookstore to browse as well as a café/bar tends to attract an older, more sophisticated crowd.
selling comida típica. On Tues there’s a tango class, Seating is outdoors under a big marquee and tradi-
on Thurs young local musicians jam here, and the tional Nica food is also available (C$60). Gig tickets
brothers themselves normally perform on Fri & Sat. are between US$4–7.
Cover C$200. Closed Sun and Mon.
La Cavanga In the northeast corner of the Centro Entertainment
Cultural Managua. A microcosm of Nicaraguan
culture, this little bar plays traditional Nicaraguan Cinema Cinemark Metrocentro (t 271-
music (Thurs–Sat) and is decorated with black and 9402/9037), Cinemas Inter in Plaza Inter
white photos of Old Managua and a few paintings (t 222-5122), Cinemas Galerias in Galerias Santo
by Ernesto Cardenal. It’s one of the best bars in Domingo (t 276-5065).
Managua, packed in the early evening with govern- Theatre Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío (see p.420),
ment workers and students. Toña (local beer) C$18. is recognized as one of the best theatres in Central
El Parking Half a block north of La Terraza, America with a main auditorium seating 1200
Planes de Altamira. Massively busy on the people, an exhibition space on the second floor, and
weekends, this loud and crowded bar has a large an experimental theatre in the basement. Events
outdoor patio and great cocktails (C$50–90). are scheduled there most weekends and it’s easy to
Piratas C Principal, Zona Hippos. A pirate-themed get to, with bus #109 stopping right in front. Check
bar with two rooms (head for the comfy bamboo the website or listings in La Prensa for details of
seating near the front) and a crowded outdoor performances.
terrace. Well-priced drinks (beer for C$12 and
cocktails from C$50) and an interesting soundtrack Shopping
of everything from reggaeton to 90s grunge.
Books Hispamer (from UCA: one block east, one
Clubs block south and then one block east again) has the
Chamán Half a block east of the Hotel Real Inter- largest selection of academic, fiction and nonfiction
Continental Metrocentro hotel. Caters to a younger books (in Spanish) in Nicaragua. There’s a small
crowd, with an emphasis on rock and alternative shelf of classic and modern English-language
sounds as well as a bit of reggae and salsa. There’s fiction and Oxford editions, the latter handy if you’re
425
 and skins are in abundance, but choose carefully

treat yourself
Alhambra V.I.P. Centro as many of the species used are endangered.
Commercial, Camino de Oriente Traditional clothing is cheap, finely embroidered
(t 270-3846). The tickets at and perfect for the tropics. Paintings in the style of
this cinema might seem steep the artists’ colony on the Solentiname Islands are
(C$110 a show), but once available here, along with many fine pen-and-ink
you’re inside you’ll see what the drawings and abstract works. You can buy Nicara-
fuss is all about. Each person guan cigars as well as wicker products (mimbre)
nicaragua

gets a leather seat, which such as baskets, mats, chairs and wall hangings.
reclines completely and comes
equipped with a call button for
summoning a waiter and ordering
Directory
food. The menu offers movie snacks Exchange Central banks that exchange foreign
like popcorn (C$30), nachos and
Managua and around

currency include Banpro and Bancentro, both on

cheese (C$40), sandwiches, and the Carretera a Masaya near the Hotel Princess,
drinks (beer C$30), which will be and BAC (Banco de América Central), Plaza España.
discreetly delivered to your side Both Bancentro and BAC offer advances on credit
through the darkness. The overly cards; BAC will change traveller’s cheques. ATMs
powerful a/c is perhaps the only accepting foreign cards (Visa, MasterCard and
downside; be sure to bring a sweater Cirrus) can be found by both the aforementioned
with you. banks and in most malls, as well as in many Shell
and Texaco garages and at the airport.
hard up for something to read. Also sells a selection Embassies and consulates Canada, C El Nogal,
of mainly classical CDs and stationery. no. 25, one block east of la Casa Nazareth (t268-
Food and drink Well-stocked chains La Colonia 0433); US, Cancillería, Km 5.5, Carretera Sur
and La Unión sell a large selection of local and (t252-7100).
imported food including organic produce. You can Immigration Departamento de Migración y
also buy a lot of the basics at local pulperías, small Extranjeria, two blocks north of Los Semáforos de
shops set up in people’s houses. Fruits and vegeta- la Colonia Tenderí (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–4pm;
bles are cheapest at the weekend markets, when T244-3989). There is also a branch within Metro-
the growers come into town to sell their produce. centro shopping centre. Which deals with visitors
Markets Mercado Mayoreo, in barrio La who have entered by air only.
Concepción, near the airport, is divided into separate Internet Internet Pioneer, Level 3, Plaza Inter
areas for different types of produce. You can also get (C$25/hr); Cyber C@fe, one and a half blocks south
a cheap meal at the market café while waiting for of the Crowne Plaza (C$20/hr); Cyber@Center, Av
northbound buses. Mercado Oriental, a few blocks Williams Romero, one block north of Cine Dorado
southeast of the old centre, is a small, lawless city- (C$20/hr); Kafe@Internet, Av Willams Romero, one
within-a-city where you can buy just about anything, block north of the Cine Dorado (C$20/hr).
but need to keep a close eye on your pockets and an Medical facilities Hospital Bautista, in barrio
even closer eye on your back – Nicaraguans will tell Largaespada (t249-7070/1005, wwww
you that this is one of the most dangerous places .hospitalbautistanicaragua.com), or Hospital Metro-
in the country. If you must go, take someone with politano Vivian Pellas, Km 9 ¾, Carretera a Masaya,
you. In the streets around the entrance to the market 250m west (t255-6900, wwww.metropolitano
are many shops selling furniture and electrical .com.ni); both are good private hospitals with
goods. If you can manage it, it’s worth buying a 24hr emergency departments, where treatments
rocking chair here: beautifully made, they cost run from US$25. Dr Enrique Sánchez Delgado, in
around C$500, and can be bought disassembled for Bosques de Altamira, Casa #417, two blocks east
carrying onto the plane. Mercado Roberto Huembes, and half a block north of the Cine Altamira (T278-
near the Carretera a Masaya in the south of the 1031), speaks English and German and charges
city, is somewhat safer to wander around than the around C$600 for a consultation.
Oriental and has an excellent crafts section. You can Pharmacies Medco is one of the larger chains,
find rocking chairs here, too, and some of the best with branches at Bello Horizonte or Plaza España
hammocks in the world – everything from a simple (t251-4438). Alternatively, try the 24hr pharmacy
net one (C$120) to a luxury, two-person, woven at the Hospital Bautista.
cotton one with wooden separators and beautiful Post office Palacio de Correos (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm,
tassels (from C$800). Products made of leather Sat 8am–noon), half a block west of Palacio Nacional.
426
Telephones The Enitel office is three blocks west Domestic bus stops
of the Catedral Vieja (daily 7am–9pm). Cyber@ Domestic buses depart from one of several markets
Center, on Av Williams Romero, has good (and in Managua (see p.426), with the exception of
cheap) internet phone facilities, with a number of Granada and Masaya minibuses, which can be
private, convenient booths. hailed on the Carretera a Masaya by the Hotel
InterContinental Metrocentro, or around the corner
Moving on at La UCA.

nicaragua
Even if you don’t particularly want to go to Domestic destinations
Managua, as the transport hub of the country it’s Note that buses listed as having regular departures
virtually impossible to avoid. From here you can (hourly or more frequent) run from 5am–6pm,
get virtually anywhere by bus, and even several �unless otherwise stated.
hard-to-reach destinations (such as Bilwi, the Corn Bluefields Express departure from Mercado Iván
Islands and San Carlos) by air from the Augusto C. Montenegro daily 9pm.

Managua and around

Sandino airport. Chinandega Second-class departures from
Mercado Israel Lewites every 30min; 2hr.
By air Estelí Second-class departures from Mercado de
Flights depart from Managua’s Augusto C. Mayoreo every 30min; 3hr 30min.
Sandino Airport. Copa have direct, daily inter- Granada Second-class departures from Mercado
national flights between Managua and San Huembes every 15min; 1hr. Express departures
José, as well as flights to and from Panamá. Taca from La UCA every 15–20min; 1hr.
also has flights connecting Managua with both León Second-class departures from Mercado
San José and San Salvador. When leaving, note Israel Lewites every 15–30min; 1hr 30min.
that all international departures are subject to a Masaya Second-class departures from Mercado
US$32 departure tax that must be paid (in dollars Huembes every 30 min; 45min. Express services
or córdobas) at check-in. If you do leave the from La UCA every 15–20min; 1hr,
country by air, note also that you won’t receive Matagalpa Second-class departures from Mercado
an exit stamp in your passport. Domestic airline de Mayoreo every 30min; 3hr.
La Costeña (T 263-2142/2144) runs frequent El Rama Five daily second-class departures from
and reliable scheduled services to and from the Mercado de Mayoreo; 10hr. Express departure from
Atlantic Coast, including San Carlos (US$75 or Mercado Iván Montenegro daily 9pm.
US$116/return). There are daily services to Puerto Rivas Second-class departures from Mercado
Cabezas, Waspán and Minas on the northern Huembes every 25min; 2hr 25min.
Atlantic Coast (US$100–150 return); flights run San Carlos Five daily second-class departures
to Bluefields (US$82 or US$127/return) several from Mercado de Mayoreo; 10–12hr.
times a day, with connecting flights to the Corn
Islands (US$64 or US$99/return), and there’s International bus stops
also a direct Managua–Corn Island flight with La Three major companies serve the international bus
Costeña (US$107 or US$165/return) departing routes between Central America’s capitals. The Tica
twice daily. Advance reservations are essential; Bus (t222-6094, wwww.Ticabus.com) station
the airline has an office at the airport and sits two blocks east and one block south of the old
agencies across the city. Tickets can be reserved Cine Dorado, while the King Quality (t228-1454,
and changed over the phone – always reconfirm wwww.kingqualityca.com) station is nearby on
on the day of your flight, as the system is very Calle 27 de Mayo, opposite Plaza Inter. Transnica
casual in Nicaragua and your seat may easily be (t270-3133, wwww.transnica.com) buses depart
given away; if you are “bumped”, you should be from 300m north and 50m east of the Rotonda
offered a seat on the next available plane. Metrocentro.

By bus International destinations

The busiest domestic bus routes are those Guatemala City Departures with: King Quality
between the capital and the provincial cities, (daily 2.30am & 3.30am; 15–17hr); Tica Bus (daily
particularly León in the northwest and Granada 5am, with overnight in San Salvador; 15hr).
in the south. Other main routes run to Matagalpa, San José Departures with: King Quality (daily
Estelí, Masaya and Rivas, the last for connections 1.30am; 9hr); Tica Bus (daily 6am, 7am & noon;
to the Costa Rican border and the beach town of 9hr); Transnica (daily 5.30am, 7am, 10am &
San Juan del Sur. 3pm; 9hr).
427
 San Salvador Departures with: King Quality (daily and Christmas: watch your belongings
3.30am, 5.30am & 11.30am; 11hr); Tica Bus (daily wherever you go.
4.45am; 12hr); Transnica (daily 5am & 12.30pm;
10hr).
Pochomíl and Masachapa
Tegucigalpa Departures with King Quality (daily
3.30am & 11.30am; 9–10hr); Tica Bus (daily 5am; The closest beaches to the city are
8hr); Transnica (daily 2pm; 6hr). Pochomíl and the nearby town of
Masachapa, 3km beyond, around an hour
nicaragua

Around managua and a half by hourly bus from the Mercado

Israel Lewites. If you come by car there’s a
The beaches around Managua don’t
small fee (C$20) to enter Pochomíl, but
have the white sand and clear water
once here you can settle in for the day, as
of places like the Corn Islands or San
there are restaurants all along the sand,
Juan del Sur and La Flor, but the water
Managua and around

and motorbikes and horses for rent. There

is warmer and they’re easy to reach.
are various accommodation options here
Managuans visit on day-trips, particu-
if you fancy staying, although the cheaper
larly on national holidays, when the
options aren’t exactly enticing. There
beaches – and public transport – get
are also several very basic hospedajes in
amazingly crowded, especially at Easter
Masachapa, though it’s more of a fishing
village and its beach is not as clean as
Pochomíl.
treat yourself

Hotel Vista Mar (t265-8099 or

855-6889, w www
.vistamarhotel.com), a beach La Boquita
resort just outside Pochomíl, Southwest along the coast from
offers mock-colonial, Masachapa is the town of La Boquita,
wooden tropical bungalows an area developed for tourism (C$60
in immaculately landscaped entry) and offering plenty of places to
grounds complete with relax and eat. The beach here can be
extravagant swimming pools,
dangerous, with large rocks hidden
fountains and even a wind-
powered well pump. Rates include
in the shallows, but the river mouth
three meals a day, snacks and opening onto the beach provides a safe
drinks. You’ll also have access to the place to swim. Minibuses depart from
on-site bar and restaurant. 9 the stop at La UCA, while regular buses
Montelimar (T 269-6752, leave from the Mercado Israel Lewites
Wwww.barcelo.com), a short for Diriamba, where you can change for
distance north of Pochomíl, is a Boquita-bound bus.
the number-one resort in all of
Nicaragua. Once the beach house El Velero
of Somoza, it was turned into a
The hilly coast around El Velero (C$35
resort by the Sandinistas and is
now run by a Spanish company.
entry), some 40km northwest of Managua
One of Nicaragua’s few five-star towards León, is wilder than the beaches
hotels, Montelimar has a relaxed further south, punctuated by cliffs and
atmosphere with a lovely private peninsulas. A holiday village of sorts, El
beach, four restaurants, four Velero is less frequented by day-trippers
swimming pools, a small zoo and than Pochomíl or La Boquita, and conse-
casino, and planned activities such quently far more relaxed. Shady huts
as dance classes, horseriding, line the beachfront, along with showers,
tennis, windsurfing and volleyball.
changing rooms and a number of food
Most people come on a package,
but you can book once you’ve
stands. The beach itself is excellent for
arrived in Nicaragua. 9 swimming, and children can play safely
in a rock pool at low tide. You can stay
428
here at the beach-side cabinas (t 809- have not healed; northerners are poorer
7800 or 688-0463; 6 ), originally set up and more battle-hardened, and can
for government workers, and still run by sometimes seem less forthcoming than
the Instituto Nicaragüense de Seguridad Nicaraguans in other areas.
Social (t 222-6300/6301) Rooms have
air-conditioning, a fridge and private León
bath, and there’s a restaurant and bar The capital of Nicaragua until 1857,

nicaragua
in the grounds. To get to El Velero, LEÓN, 90km northwest of Managua, is
take a bus from Mercado Israel Lewites now a provincial city, albeit an energetic,
(C$25), or head to León, alight at Puerto architecturally arresting one. A signifi-
Sandino and take a camioneta. All in all, cant element in the city’s healthy buzz is
it’s a three-hour journey from Managua. the presence of the National University

The north
(the country’s premier academic insti-
tution) and its large student population,
swelled by the ranks of young people
The north studying at León’s various other colleges
and universities.
For all its present peace and prosperity,
Nicaragua’s north is really two regions, León has a violent history. The original
divided by geography and climate. The León was founded by Hernández de
northwest is hot and dry with grassy Córdoba in 1524 at the foot of Volcán
plains, perfect for cattle ranching, Momotombo, where its ruins – now
punctuated by dramatic volcanoes. The known as León Viejo (see p.435) – still
largest city in the northwest, and once the lie. The city was subsequently moved
capital of Nicaragua, is León, birthplace northwest to its present-day location
of the Sandinistas. In the northeast, the soon after León Viejo’s destruction by
landscape is altogether different, with an earthquake and volcanic eruption
mountainous hillsides covered in bright in 1609. In 1956, the first President
green coffee plants and cows grazing in Somoza was gunned down in León by
cool alpine pastures. Set within a circle the martyr-poet Rigoberto López Pérez.
of mountains, the northeast has a more During the Revolution in the 1970s, the
temperate climate and very productive town’s streets were the scenes of several
soil, with plenty of tobacco plantations decisive battles between the Sandini-
and an economy based on coffee, grains, stas and Somoza’s forces, and many key
vegetables, fruit and dairy farming. The figures in the Revolution either came
150km journey north from Managua to from León or had their political start
Estelí, the northeast’s largest city, is one here. Although many years have passed
of the most inspiring in the country, as since then, and most of the Sandinista
the Carretera Interamericana winds graffiti has been painted over, the city
through the grassy Pacific plains, continues to wear its FSLN heart on
skirting the southern edge of Lago de its sleeve: the street signs read “León:
Managua before climbing slowly into a ciudad heroica – primera capital de la
ribbon of blue mountains. revolución”, and there are still a few fine
Many travellers coming from the south examples of the city’s famous murals.
notice a distinct difference in the north’s
inhabitants as well as its geography. In What to see and do
both the Sandinista Revolution years
and during the Contraâ•fiÂ�Sandinista León’s heartbeat is the Parque Central,
struggles of the 1980s, this region which is shadowed by the largest
suffered considerably. Many scars still cathedral in Central America. Calle
429













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Central Rubén Darío runs directly north across the city – a throwback to the
of the Parque cutting the city in two from days when workers flocked in to León’s
east to west, while Avenida Central runs booming cotton factories.
between the Parque and Cathedral north
to south. Unlike other cities in Nicaragua, Cathedral
in practice León has street signs, though The city’s most obvious attraction is its
in reality people will still give you direc- colossal Cathedral (open from sunrise to
tions in relation to a landmark. late evening), a cream-coloured structure
of epic proportions towering over León
Parque Central from the heart of the city. Begun in
The Parque Central, at the intersec- 1747, it took nearly a hundred years to
tion of Calle Central Rubén Darío and complete. Despite its massive and lofty
Avenida Central, is centred on a statue exterior, the only items of interest inside
of General Máximo Jeréz guarded by are the statues of the Twelve Apostles
four lions. It’s a good place to take the and the tomb of local hero Rubén
city’s pulse, visited as it is by a constant Darío, Nicaragua’s most famous writer
stream of locals, street vendors and and poet, which is guarded by a statue
tourists. If you value your hearing, avoid of a weeping lion. Mass is held daily at
the Parque at 7am and noon, when a about 5pm and are worth attending, if
ludicrously loud air-raid siren wails only to people-watch.
430
Asociación de Parque Rubén Darío
Combatientes Históricos Followers of Nicaragua’s other religion,
Héroes de Veracruz poetry, might want to head for the
On the western side of town is one of Parque Rubén Darío, a block west of
the city’s Sandinista strongholds, the the Parque Central, which is home to
decaying Asociación de Combat- a statue of the rather sombre-looking
ientes Históricos Héroes de Veracruz poet dressed in suit and bow tie.

nicaragua
building, now functioning as a museum
highlighting the Revolution’s effects Centro de Arte Fundación
on León (daily 8am–noon, 2–6pm & Ortiz-Guardián
8–10pm; donations requested). FSLN Sitting on Calle Central Rubén Darío
combat veteran and guide Dionísio a little to the west of Parque Rubén

The north
Meza Romero supplies enthusiastic Darío is the Centro de Arte Fundación
and knowledgeable explanations on the Ortiz-Guardián (Tues–Sat 10.30am–
extensive collection of photos, articles 6.30pm, Sun 11am–7pm; US$0.80), an
and news clippings documenting the expansive art gallery in two renovated
colonial houses. The collection features
Revolution, its historical antecedents
an engrossing cross-section of Latin
and its aftermath.
American art, including pre-Hispanic
and modern ceramics and some great
Mausoleo Héroes y
black and white photos of Nicaraguan
Mártires rural religious festivals.
The northeast corner of the Parque
is home to the Mausoleo Héroes y Museo Archivo Rubén Darío
Mártires, a star-shaped monument A few blocks further west is the Museo
dedicated to those who died fighting Archivo Rubén Darío (Mon–Sat
for freedom during the civil war, 9am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 9am–noon;
surrounded by a large mural colour- donations requested) housed in a
fully detailing Nicaragua’s history from substantial León residence that was the
pre-Columbian times to the ending of home of the poet’s aunt, Bernarda. Inside,
the civil war. Another famous mural, the lovingly kept rooms and courtyard
opposite, depicts a hat-wearing Sandino garden are home to wonderfully frank
squashing a whey-faced Uncle Sam plaques narrating the story of Darío’s
underfoot. tempestuous personal life and diplomatic
and poetic careers, along with personal
La Recolección possessions and commemorative items,
Two blocks northeast of the Parque such as Rubén Darío lottery tickets.
is one of Nicaragua’s finest colonial
churches, La Recolección, with a Casa Rigoberto López
beautiful Mexican Baroque facade Pérez
dating from 1786, and some fine Two blocks west and a block north of
mahogany woodwork inside. the Parque Central, a dowdy FSLN office

Rubén Darío
Born in 1867 in a village outside Matagalpa, the writer Rubén Darío is little-known
beyond Latin America, but is one of Nicaragua’s most famous sons. Azul …,
published in 1888, became particularly influential and is often cited as a cornerstone
for the birth of Spanish language modernism. Nearly a century after his death in
1916, he remains one of the region’s most influential poets.
431
 bears a plaque commemorating the spot other half focuses on the garrison’s ugly
where the young poet and revolutionary past, with a small collection of revealing
Rigoberto López Pérez assassinated the black-and-white photos taken during
dictator General Somoza on September and after the Somoza era. Captions in
21, 1956, before he himself was shot Spanish document the torture that went
some fifty times by the National Guard. on inside the garrison. You can also peer
The plaque is the only thing to see; the into the eerily empty cells at the rear of
nicaragua

building was named after López Pérez the building.

in the wake of the event.
Subtiava
Galería Héroes y Mártires Four kilometres west of the city centre
Continuing in a revolutionary vein, the is the barrio of Subtiava, which long
The north

Galería Héroes y Mártires (Mon–Sat predates León and is still home to many
9am–5.30pm; donations requested), a of the city’s indigenous population. It is
block north and half a block west of the also the site of one of the oldest churches
Parque Central, houses wall after wall of in the country. Recently renovated, the
simple, moving black and white photos small adobe building is not always open,
of Nicaraguans (men and women, but worth a visit if you’re catching a bus
young and old) killed fighting for the to or from the beach at Las Peñitas (see
Sandinista cause during the civil war. p.434).
There’s also a small crafts shop attached,
the proceeds of which go towards the Arrival and information
gallery’s upkeep.
By bus Buses arrive at the anarchic, traffic-clogged
terminal northeast of the centre, from where you
La Veinte Uno
can hop in a taxi (standard fare anywhere in town is
Three blocks south of the cathedral lie
C$20) or walk the eight blocks west into town.
the ruins of La Veinte Uno, the National Tour operators Big Foot Adventure, at the Big Foot
Guard’s 21st garrison and scene of heavy Hostel (see p.433; Wwww.bigfootadventure
fighting in April 1979. The garrison now .com), run volcano scree-boarding trips to nearby
houses two very different, seemingly Cerro Negro. Quetzaltrekkers, C 2, Av 2–3 NE
unconnected museums, which together (T311-6695, wwww.quetzaltrekkers.com), is an
oddly go by the long-winded title of ethical tour company offering volcano treks around
Museo de Leyendas y Tradiciones the country, including trips to Mombacho (US$50),
General Joaquín de Arrechada Antigua Cerro Negro (US$20), Cosigüina (US$60) and Telica
(US$37), as well as the Asososca Lagoon (US$30);
Cárcel de la Veinte Uno (Tues–Sat
prices include all transport, food, water, entry fees
8am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 8am–3pm; and guide. If your timing is right, you can even join
C$7). One half of the building houses a full-moon lava hike up Volcán Telica (US$30). All
a bizarre collection of ghoulish figures profits go towards supporting street children in
from Nicaraguan folklore, including a León. FSLN combat veteran Dionísio Meza Romero
chariot-riding grim reaper, while the offers “Historical Revolutionary” tours of León

The Gigantona of Subtiava

In November and December, the one sight in León not to be missed is that of
posses of young boys hammering away at snare drums while a huge Gigantona
(a papier-mâché, Rio Carnaval–style figure of an elegant colonial-era lady, directed
from underneath by a slightly older teenager) weaves among them. Traditionally,
the boys are given a few córdobas for a recital of poetry, typically that of national
bard Rubén Darío. The gigantonas are judged during the festivities of La Purísima
(a festival celebrating the Virgin Mary’s conception) on December 7, with the best
winning a prize.
432
(Mon–Sat 9am & 3pm; C$70) from the Asociación Guest House La Calle de los Poetas C Central
de Combatientes Históricos Héroes de Veracruz Rubén Darío, Av 4–5 SO T311-3306,
(see p.431). [email protected]. Undoubtedly one of the
Tourist information INTUR, on Av José de la Cruz best deals in the city, with four cool, quiet, tastefully
Mena, C 2–3 NO (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–5pm; furnished rooms (with fan and private bath) set
T 311-3782), and has a few leaflets and maps around a pretty colonial courtyard and bordered by
and general tour information. Much better is the a large, rambling garden. The owner, a knowledge-

nicaragua
tourist office at the Vía Vía hostel, Av 2 NE, C 1–2 able host, also runs an informal tour agency. 3
(T 311-6142). Lazybones Av José De La Cruz Mena, C
2–3 SO T311-3472, Wwww
Accommodation .lazybonesleon.com. Certainly the best hostel in
León, this place is a real treat. The dorms are clean
Budget accommodation in León has really taken and comfortable, and the three showers mean you
should never have to wait in line for too long. Large

The north
off in the last few years, and there is now an
abundance of good-value hostels. pool and pool table, free coffee and tea, internet
with wi-fi and a 10min international phone call.
Hotels and guesthouses Dorms 2 , rooms 4
El Albergue C 3 NE, Av 3–4 T478-6497. Vía Vía Av 2 NE, C 1–2 T311-6142,
One of the more peaceful places in town, W www.viaviacafe.com. Opposite Big Foot,
set around a narrow courtyard with high walls that and just as popular. The lively on-site bar and
drown out much of the street noise. The dorms are restaurant (with pool table and live music) are
clean, well-ventilated and secure, and the private probably Vía Vía’s biggest draws, although there are
rooms are large but basic. There’s also a small hammocks ($2 per night), book exchange and even
kitchen and bar. Sizeable discounts for volunteer salsa-dancing and Spanish classes. Accommoda-
workers. Dorms 1 , doubles 3 tion consists of a crumbling colonial dorm and a
Avenida Av Comandante Pedro Aráuz, C 5–6 NE few basic rooms with fan and shared bath. Dorms
T 311-2068. Popular budget option with basic but 1 , rooms 2
clean and bright rooms set around a small leafy
courtyard, some with private bath and all with Eating
ceiling fan. 2
Big Foot Av 2 NE, C 1–2 T no phone, W www León boasts a cosmopolitan and ever-increasing
.bigfootadventure.com. Located right opposite Vía range of places to eat and drink, from the ubiqui-
Vía, this is very much the social gathering spot for tous pizza joints and stalwart seafood restaurants to
the younger backpacker crowd. The huge dorms chic café-bars and bohemian hangouts. Most of the
are kept fairly clean, but watch your belongings, as restaurants and pizza places close around 10pm,
there’s easy access from the bar out front. A large while the trendier places stay open until the small
kitchen is available, as is a small foot-shaped pool. hours, especially at weekends.
Dorms 1
Casa Ivana C 2 SO, Av 2–3 T311-4423. Spartan, Restaurants
spacious rooms (private bath optional) in an Ben Linder Café On the corner of Av 1 NO and C
atmospheric old house. The leafy courtyard and 2. Named after an American volunteer who worked
communal area with lived-in rocking chairs is an tirelessly for the local community but was murdered
added draw. 2 by the Contras in 1989, this nonprofit fair-trade
La Casona Av 1 SO, C 3–4 T 311-5282, cafe is a great place to come for a light lunch, with
E [email protected]. Friendly hostel with six toasted sandwiches and salads on the menu. Mains
basic rooms, some gloomier than others. Positive from C$40.
attributes are a sociable, comfortable living area, Café El Sesteo C Central Rubén Darío, on the
kitchen, friendly management, laundry facilities and corner of the Parque Central. The town’s main café
hammocks. 2 and the only one with alfresco tables, El Sesteo
Clínica Av 1 SO, C 2–3 T311-2031. Possibly the only looks out over the Parque Central and Cathedral,
hostel-cum-dental clinic in existence, this friendly, making it a great place to people-watch and take
family-run place offers decent rooms (some with in the atmosphere. Food is expensive, so it’s best to
private bath) around a tiny courtyard. The upstairs stick to drinks: try their “famous” cacao con leche
rooms (with foliage-shaded balcony) are the most (C$30).
desirable, but negotiating the precipitous staircase CocinArte On the corner of Av 4 SO and C 4.
after a few beers might present a problem. 1 Colourful restaurant towards the southern end of
433
 town serving a large vegetarian menu as well as Internet Cyber Flash (.com), next to Big Foot Hostel
local specialities. Fri is couples evening and Sun has the fastest connection (US$1/hr). They also do
features chess tournaments, attended by locals photocopies and burn pictures from your camera
and tourists. There is a tourist info centre under the to disk.
same roof. Mains from C$50. Post office Av 3 NO, C 3–4.
Dave’s Shark Pitt Av 1 NE, C Telephones The Enitel office (Mon–Sat 7am–8pm,
2–3. A popular hangout for local university Sun 7am–5pm) is on the west side of the Parque.
students, largely due to the fact that it regularly
nicaragua

hosts live music. The menu consists of truly huge

portions of Mexican and Honduran food: one plate is
Moving on
easily enough for two people. Mains from C$40. By bus to: Chinandega (55 daily; 1hr 30min);
Guadalajara On the corner of Av 1 NE and C 2. Estelí (4 daily; 2hr 30min); Las Peñitas (14 daily;
Delicious, good-value and well-presented Mexican
45min); Managua (40 daily; 1hr 15min–2hr 15min);
food with bench-style tables. Try the quesadillas, a
The north

Matagalpa (3 daily; 3hr); San Isidro (for Matagalpa

steal at C$35.
and Estelí; 24 daily; 2hr).
Taquezal C 1A SO, Av 1–2. Rustic, slightly fraying
but very stylish and atmospheric café/bar with
candle-lit tables and a good menu featuring decent around León
vegetarian pasta dishes, Chinese food, wonderful Worthwhile day-trip destinations from
iced tea with lemon and a fine selection of espresso León include the Pacific beach of Las
drinks. Mains from C$80. Closed Sun.
Peñitas, west of the city and easily
Vía Vía Av 2 NE, C 1–2 T311-6142. The restau-
rant at the hostel is regularly full, especially when
accessible by bus, and the UNESCO
live music or Monday night trivia is on the menu World Heritage site of León Viejo, best
(phone ahead if you want a table). Its selling point reached in a car or taxi – a trip on public
is its lively atmosphere, but they also do great transport entails some fancy footwork
Honduran cuisine, as well as Mexican and European to make the connections, and even then
dishes. Mains from C$60. Closed Wed. leaves you with a bit of a walk.
White House Pizza Av 1A NE, C 2–3 T311-7010.
With the tastiest and most professional pizza in
Las Peñitas and Poneloya
town (a medium margarita will set you back about
C$80), this chain does a roaring trade most nights. For monster Pacific waves, Las Peñitas,
They’ll also deliver to your hotel. 20km west of León, is the most impres-
sive beach in the country. The water here
Drinking and nightlife is notoriously rough, due to a combina-
tion of powerful waves and riptides, so
León is Nicaragua’s party town (by national much so that it was recently the location
standards), thanks in large part to its many for Nicaragua’s first ever surf competi-
students, and Friday and Saturday nights are tion. Despite this, you can actually swim
always lively. People tend to converge on one or
here reasonably safely. Poneloya, 2km
two places – look around and see what’s going on.
Discoteca Dilectus On the highway to Managua
north, is a different story: ask locals
on the south side of the city. This is about as about riptides (corrientes peligrosos)
close as you’re going to come to a European-style before venturing into the water here,
nightclub. Things get going around 10pm and the and never swim alone.
playlist is the usual blend of salsa, merengue, Most travellers come to Las Peñitas
reggaeton, techno and hip-hop. Cover US$1. as a day-trip from León. Accommoda-
Don Señor C 1, Av 1–2 NO. With tables downstairs tion in town is limited. Options include
overlooking La Merced church, a dance floor upstairs
Playa Roca (T 428-8903, W www
and El Alamo bar right next door, this compact setting
is ever-popular with locals and tourists. .hotelplayaroca.com; dorms 2 , rooms
4 ), a thatched–roof cabaña right on the
beach. Dorms are pretty basic, but the
Directory
on–site restaurant cooks up rather good
Exchange There’s a cluster of banks on the corner seafood. Right at the end of the road
of C1 NE and Av 1, all with ATMs that accept Visa. where the Pacific curves round into
434
an idyllic little bay is the Barco de Oro an early start, as the last bus returns to
(T 317-0275, W www.barcadeoro.com; León from La Paz at 2pm. There’s a local
3 –4 ). Formerly a nightclub frequented bus from La Paz Centro to and from the
by Somoza, it’s now a tranquil traveller’s site.
haven. The pleasant rooms have rustic
wooden beds, en–suite bathrooms and Chinandega
a lovely upstairs balcony for sunset–

nicaragua
CHINANDEGA, 35km northwest of
watching. The French owner (who also León, is primarily a working city and
speaks good English) works closely with forms one of the many cogs in the Nicara-
the local community and can hook you guan economy. Set on a plain behind the
up with one of the fishermen for a trip looming form of Volcán San Cristóbal,
to the nearby Isla Juan Venado, a nature the area’s dry, kiln-like climate is ideal for

The north
reserve and turtle-nesting site. growing cotton, the area’s main economic
Buses to Las Peñitas (45min) leave activity, along with Flor de Caña
León from the Terminal Poneloya on rum, Nicaragua’s export-grade tipple,
C Darío, near the Subtiava church (see produced in a distillery on the outskirts
p.432) every 55 minutes (until 6pm). of town. Almost always overlooked by
The last bus back to León leaves at travellers – and not without reason
6.45pm. – Chinandega is really best visited as
a stop-off on the way to the Honduran
León Viejo border.
Founded in 1524, León Viejo (daily
7am–6pm; US$2, including guided tour),
Arrival and information
32km east of the modern city and now
designated a UNESCO World Heritage By bus Buses arrive at the market southwest of the
site, was the original site of León, before centre, known as the Mercado Bisne – bisne being
it was destroyed by an earthquake and short for “business”.
volcanic eruption on December 31, 1609. Exchange You can change dollars and traveller’s
Among the ruins excavated since the cheques at Bancentro, which also has an ATM, on
the opposite corner from the Shell garage.
site’s discovery in 1967 are a cathedral,
Tourist information There’s an INTUR office four
monastery and church. In November
blocks east from the Parque, where you can get info
2000, the graves of Nicaragua’s first on climbing the nearby volcanoes.
three bishops were uncovered; their
remains are now interred in large coffins
Accommodation
carved by Nicaraguan sculptor Federico
Matus. The headless remains of Nicara- Don Mario Two blocks north of the Parque T 341-
gua’s founder, Francisco Fernández de 4054. There is not much by way of accommodation
Córdoba were also discovered here, in Chinandega, but if you do stay, Don Mario is
amid the ruins of La Merced church. The your best bet, with welcoming rooms, clean private
site’s setting is nearly as impressive as its bathroom, and cable TV. 3
archeological import, within sight of
the lake and under the looming shadow Eating
of Momotombo. The best view of the
Res Kingdom Pizza One block north of the bank
surroundings is to be had from the old T341-8911. Does a range of tasty pizzas, and
fort, located east of the main ruins. delivers to your hotel.
The site is accessible from La Paz
Centro, a village about 60km north of
Moving on
Managua, which you can reach via the
frequent León–Managua service – just By bus to: Guasaule (every 20min; 1hr); León (55
ask them to drop you. It’s best to get daily; 1hr 30min) Managua (22 daily; 2–3hr).
435
 Into Honduras: Guasaule
Crossing into Honduras via Guasaule is relatively hassle-free and shouldn’t take
more than half an hour in total. The exit tax is currently US$2; the official line is that
this fee must be paid in US dollars, but if you don’t have them it’s fairly common to
be allowed to pay in córdobas, although your exchange rate will take a beating. The
border post is open 24 hours, but if you cross between noon and 2pm or after 5pm,
nicaragua

you’ll have to pay an extra US$2. It’s about 1km between the Nicaraguan border
post and the Honduran side, across an impressive bridge. You can either walk
or take one of the bicycle taxis from Guasaule bus station. The entrance fee for
Honduras (post open 24hr) is currently US$3. From the border there’s a direct bus
to Tegucigalpa every two hours.
The north

Estelí lies in soaking up the atmosphere,

Though the largest town in the particularly along Avenida Central,
north, at first sight ESTELÍ can seem where shops’ wares spill out onto the
downtrodden and poor. However, street and the windows display cowboy
while it does have its poverty–stricken boots and the local farmers’ favourite
barrios, it’s also an engaging place and Western-style hats.
a hotbed of political activity. Notorious The town’s Parque Central isn’t as
for this staunchly leftist character and nice as some others in the country, but
legendary tenacity, Estelí saw heavy is nonetheless busy from dawn until
fighting and serious bloodshed during dusk. The cathedral on the eastern
the Revolution. Somoza bore a partic- side of the Parque has a rather austere
ular grudge against the town’s inhab- facade, making it one of the least inter-
itants, and waged brutal offensives esting in the country. The south side of
on the city. The scars have not really the Parque is dominated by the Centro
healed, either on the bombed–out Recreativo Las Segovias, which puts
buildings that still dot the streets or in on regular music and sporting events,
people’s minds, and the region remains particularly basketball games. The
a centre of undiminished Sandinista Casa de Cultura, another cultural
support – walk around a bit and you venue a block to the south, hosts
can glimpse something of the liberal local art exhibitions, dancing and
vision that inspired so many people music events. Across the street, the
during the 1980s. Artesanía Nicaragüense has a reason-
Estelí’s relatively rural setting also able selection of crafts, pottery and
means there are some attractive options cigars.
for day-trips. El Salto de la Estanzuela
– a secluded waterfall within walking Galería de Héroes y
distance of the centre – makes for a Mártires
great day out, while the wonderful Just south of the Parque Central is the
Miraflor nature reserve is just under tiny Galería de Héroes y Mártires
30km away. (daily 9am–4pm; donations requested)
a simple yet moving museum devoted
What to see and do to the Revolution and to the many
residents of Estelí who died fighting
Although Estelí lacks the stunning in it. The women who work at the
mountain views of Matagalpa, the Galería are, for the most part, mothers
centre of town is well kept and pleasant and widows of soldiers who were
to wander around, and the climate is killed. Donations are very much
refreshingly cool. Much of the pleasure appreciated.
436
 accommodation leaves a lot to be desired. Like
Arrival and information León, Estelí also has an early-morning air-raid siren
wake-up call, so if you’re a light sleeper you should
By bus Estelí has two bus terminals: the shiny and
consider a room as far from the centre as possible.
surprisingly orderly Cotran Sur R.L. station, at the
Hospedaje Chepito Av Central SO, C 8–9 T713-
southern entrance to town, serves all destinations
3784. Small, simple and dirt-cheap family-run
south of Estelí, while the older station, 5min north, hospedaje with camp beds and clean concrete
serves all destinations north of Estelí, plus express floors. Very popular with Nicaraguans. 1

nicaragua
buses to Managua, Masaya and León. Hospedaje San Francisco Av Central SO, C 7–8
Tour operator UCA Miraflor, Av 4 NE, C 2–3 T713-3787. Almost the cheapest accommodation
(T 713-2971, Wwww.miraflor.org), runs tours to in town, but it shows. Rooms are extremely basic
the reserve and can also give you general informa- and can start to feel like prison cells if you stay
tion on getting there independently. indoors for any length of time. 1
Tourist information INTUR, Av Central, Hospedaje San Ramón Av Central SO, C 7–8

The north
C Transversal–1 NE (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & T714-0970. Family-run place behind a general
1.30–5pm; T 713-6799, E [email protected]), store. Rooms are fairly basic and allow for very
has up-to-date bus timetables and details on little ventilation, but the owners are friendly and the
visiting Miraflor nature reserve and the El Salto de shared bathroom is clean. 1
la Estanzuela waterfall. Miraflor Av 1 NO, C 3–4 T 713-2003. Small
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 Nicarao Av Central, C Transversal–1 SE range of Spanish tapas. Treats like gazpacho and
T 713-2490. Small hotel popular with papas bravas make this place a must, as does the
gringos, possibly thanks to its covered patio where healthy breakfast menu. Mains C$80.
you can relax and dine on the lunch specials
(US$3). Keep an eye out for the number of flightless Drinking and nightlife
birds housed here. You have a choice of budget
or more attractive, comfortable rooms, all good There are few real bars in Estelí. Cllubbers are
value. 2
nicaragua

better catered for, but most of the healthy selection

Sacuanjoche Av 1 SE, C 2–3 T713-2482. Bright, of discos are located far from town.
fresh rooms with comfy beds, tiled floors, clean
bathroom and varnished wooden ceilings, all set Bars
around a pretty patio. Good-value restaurant on La Confianza Av Central, C Transversal–1 NE.
site. 1 Although La Confianza seems to be kept in perpetual
darkness, this lively place is one of the few bars in
The north

Eating the centre of town. They also serve decent-sized

plates of tapas. Beers cost about C$15.
Estelí’s restaurants depend little on tourists, and as Rincón Legal On the corner of Av 1 SE
a result most are fairly low-key. Although there are and C 9. This absorbing Sandinista bar has
no stand-outs, all the restaurants are great value. occasional live music and is always busy late in the
evening. Posters, news clippings and murals fill the
Restaurants walls, and if you’re interested there’s always someone
Coffe Café C Transversal, Av Central–1. Simple around to explain their relevance. Beers around C$15.
coffee shop serving up omelettes, waffles and
sandwiches as well as a range of other light Directory
snacks. One of the best places in town for breakfast
(plate of fresh fruit C$40). Exchange There’s a bank on every corner of
Fuji Hipa Rincón Chino Av Central, C 9–10. This C Transversal and Av 1 SO. Banco de América
restaurant does good-value Chinese food as well Central (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–noon),
as some local dishes. An average meal will set you on the southwestern corner, is the only one that
back no more than C$80. changes traveller’s cheques.
La Gran Vía Av 1 SE, C Transversal–1. Busy restau- Internet Esteli@net and Compucenter, both on
rant specializing in good, fairly expensive Chinese C Transversal, Av Central–1 SO, have similar
food (the C$40 lunch specials – served 11am–4pm connection speeds and near identical prices at
– are much better value), although there’s a about US$1/hr.
small selection of decent pasta dishes. Also does Language schools Horizonte, a well-respected
delicious flan and cheesecakes. Closed Sun. school, on Av 1 SE, Cal 9–10 (T 713-4117
Licuados Ananda C Transversal, Av Central–1. The [email protected]), does courses for US$150
Estelí branch of this Managua restaurant has tranquil per week that include accommodation with a local
outdoor tables next to a strangely disused swimming family. The Galería de los Héroes y Mártires also
pool. Great for breakfast and snacks with a range runs informal language classes based on learning
of cheap, healthy vegetarian fare including yogurt, about the area and the effects of the civil war.
muesli, licuados, tacos and repochetas. Mains C$60. Telephones The Enitel office (Mon–Fri 8am–8pm,
El Rincón Pinareño Av 1 SE, C Transversal–1 Sat 9am–5pm) is on C Transversal, Av 1–2 NE.
T 713-4369. Phenomenally popular, the Pinareño
specializes in cheap, mouth-watering Nicaraguan
Moving on
fare with a Cuban bias. There’s also a good range of
tortillas (even a Mexican chorizo version) and daily By bus to: León (4 daily; 2–2hr 30min; alterna-
specials. Mains C$60. tively, get on any bus to Matagalpa and get off at
Tacos Mexicanos Beverly On the corner of C 2 the San Isidro junction); Managua (29 daily; 2–3hr);
NE and Av 2. Small place across from the cathedral Matagalpa (24 daily; 1hr–2hr); Masaya (2 daily;
serving up your usual Mexican fare, including 3hr); Ocotal (12 daily; 2hr).
excellent quesadillas. Mains C$60.
Vuela Vuela On the corner of C 3 NE and Av 1.
Smart café/bar that’s an NGO initiative with profits
around estelí
going to help disadvantaged youths back into the Esteli is blessed with beautiful natural
job market. The menu features a tasty, authentic surroundings. Miraflor to the north
438
provides numerous opportunities for To get to the reserve take one of the
wildlife-spotting, while the waterfall of buses from the northern bus terminal
El Salto de la Estanzuela makes for a in Estelí. Several different buses run
refreshing day-trip. to different parts of the reserve. UCA
Miraflor in Estelí (see p.437), is the
Miraflor nature reserve place to get any advice if setting out
The wonderful Miraflor nature reserve, independently, though they also run

nicaragua
28km northeast of Estelí, is one of the tours into the reserve and can arrange
country’s least known but most worth- accommodation for you.
while attractions. It covers 206 square
kilometres of forest, part of which is El Salto de la Estanzuela
farmed by a group of agricultural co- Another very rewarding trip from Estelí

The north
ops – over five thousand locals currently is to El Salto de la Estanzuela, one of
produce coffee, potatoes, milk, cheese the few waterfalls in Nicaragua easily
and exotic flowers in and around the accessible on foot from a major centre
protected area. One of the project’s main of population. Located in the Reserva
aims is to find sustainable ways in which Natural Tisey-Estanzuela, it’s a lovely
farming and environmental protection two-hour walk through green, gently
can co-exist; the emphasis is firmly rolling hills – although it’s also possible
upon community-centred tourism. to drive right to the foot of the falls. The
The reserve itself comprises several path begins just past the hospital at the
different ecosystems, ranging from southern entrance to town, by the Kiosko
savannah to tropical dry forest and Europeo; follow the path for 4km or so
humid cloudforest. To best appreciate until you see a sign for “Comunidad
this diversity it’s advisable to stay for at Estanzuela”; go through the gate on
least two or three days, either walking the right-hand side and follow the path
or horseriding between the zones and for another 1km. The falls themselves
staying with different families each night. – 35m or so in height – are located at the
Guides can also take you to the reserve’s bottom of a steep flight of steps and are
waterfalls and caves, once inhabited by fairly spectacular, cascading into a deep
the ancient Yeluca and Cebollal mountain pool perfect for swimming in. The only
peoples. In terms of flora and fauna, downside is the litter carelessly strewn
Miraflor is one of the richest reserves around the rocks in front of the falls.
in the country, with over three hundred As always, be careful not to go directly
species of bird including quetzals, underneath the falling water as rocks do
guardabarrancos (the national bird of occasionally fall down, especially after
Nicaragua) and urracas, a local type of heavy rainfall. Nearby is El Mirador, one
magpie, as well as howler monkeys and of the most spectacular viewpoints in all
reclusive mountain lions. There are also Nicaragua; on a clear day it’s possible to
over two hundred species of orchid. see volcanoes as far away as El Salvador.

Into honduras: LAs Manos

Though not quite as busy as the crossing at Guasaule, the Las Manos border
crossing for Honduras is nonetheless relatively trouble-free. The exit fee is US$2,
although this fee doubles if you arrive at lunchtime (noon–2pm), at weekends or on
public holidays. The official line is that it must be paid in US dollars, but it’s fairly
common to be allowed to pay in córdobas. The post is open 24 hours, but vehicles
can only cross between 8am and 5pm. Continuing on, there are regular buses from
Las Manos to the nearest town, El Paraíso, while two direct buses a day leave for
Tegucigalpa (usually at about 9am and 2pm).
439
 Ocotal in Nicaragua, principally, perhaps,
A dusty highway leads north from Estelí because of its relatively cool climate:
to OCOTAL, a pleasant, cool place at about 21–25°C, it’s considered tierra
located in a bowl of green mountains, fría in this land of 30°C-plus tempera-
and a useful stopover on the way to or tures. Located 130km northeast of the
from the Las Manos border post and capital on the Carretera Interamericana,
Honduras. The best place to stay is the Matagalpa is a small, quiet town set
nicaragua

Hotel Frontera (T 732-2668, E hofrosa@ among blue-green mountains covered

ibw.com.ni; 4 ), 1km north of town by in coffee plantations. Most visitors
the Shell station. All rooms have TV, air- come here to visit the Selva Negra,
conditioning and bath with hot water, to the north of the city and one of the
and there’s also a bar, restaurant and country’s premier tourist attractions.
The north

swimming pool.
Buses run between Ocotal and Estelí What to see and do
roughly every hour until 6pm (there are
Matagalpa’s services, hotels and restau-
also frequent express buses from Ocotal
rants are spread out between the seven
to Managua until 3.30pm). Buses for
blocks that divide the town’s two
Los Manos leave every half hour until
principal parques: Parque Morazán
4.40pm. The bus terminal is on the
to the north and the slightly smaller
highway 1km south of town.
Parque Darío seven blocks to the
south. The town’s two main thorough-
Matagalpa
fares, Avenida José Benito Escobar and
Known as “La Perla del Septentrión” Avenida Central, link the two squares.
– “Pearl of the North” – MATAGALPA
is spoken well of by virtually everyone The town
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440
museum sells quality coffee and is also
behind Matagalpa’s new Feria Nacional Directory
del Café (held in Nov), a festival Exchange A number of banks sit on Av Central just
celebrating the town’s coffee expertise, south of Parque Morazán: Bancentro will change
with seminars, talks and performances dollars and traveller’s cheques.
of local music. Internet Xtrem Cyber Café, halfway along Av José
Benito Escobar, is the cheapest place in town for

nicaragua
internet access (around US$1/hr) and international
Arrival and information
phone calls.
By bus Matagalpa’s bus terminal is southwest of Telephones Enitel, a block east of the Cathedral
the city centre; it’s about a 10min walk from the (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm).
terminal to Parque Darío.
Tour operators Matagalpa Tours, one block Moving on

The north
southeast of Parque Morazán (T 772-0108,
W www.matagalpatours.com), offers excursions to By bus to: Estelí (24 daily; 1hr 45min); Jinotega (26
the surrounding area, including tours of local coffee daily; 1hr 30min); León (1 daily; 3hr; alternatively
plantations. get on any bus to Estelí and get off at the San Isidro
Tourist information INTUR (Mon–Fri 8am–12.30pm junction); Managua (29 daily; 3hr); Masaya (2 daily;
& 2–5pm) is four blocks south of Parque Morazán on 3hr 30min).
Av Central. The friendly and well-informed staff offers
details about visiting coffee estates in the region, a around matagalpa
trip known as the Ruta del Café.
Although Matagalpa has an excep-
tional natural setting, most of the area
Accommodation
is inaccessible to the independent
The choice of accommodation In Matagalpa isn’t traveller. The best place to get a feel for
great, but has improved significantly in recent it is in the grounds of the Selva Negra
years; nonetheless, many tourists still head out hotel, where footpaths weave through
of town to stay at the Hotel Selva Negra (see p.442). the thick tropical forest.
Hotel Alvarado Just north of Parque Darío
on Av José Benito Escobar T 772-2830.
Certainly the most charming place in town, this
Selva Negra
family-run hotel above a pharmacy has cute, wood- North of Matagalpa, the Selva Negra
panelled rooms, the most desirable being on the is an area of dark blue, pine-clad
top floor. All rooms have en-suite bathrooms and mountains named by the area’s German
fans. 2 immigrants in the nineteenth century
Hotel Apante On the east side of Parque Darío after their homeland’s Black Forest,
T 772-6890. Offers tasteful, immaculate rooms which it strangely resembles. Due to
with TV, colourfully tiled, hot-water bathroom and
its high altitude (around 1570m), the
modern, comfortable beds. Some rooms are a lot
bigger than others, so ask to see a few before
area has a spring-like climate and a
choosing. 2 refreshing average temperature of 18°C.
An amazing variety of wildlife flour-
Eating ishes in these pristine and sparsely
populated tropical forests, including
Café Picoteo Next door to the Museo del Café. over eighty varieties of orchid, many
Great place for breakfast and a fresh cup of birds (including the elusive quetzal),
Matagalpan coffee. Mains C$20. sloths, ocelots, margay, mountain lion,
Cafeteria don Chaco Two blocks south of Parque deer and howler monkeys – all of which
Morazán on Av José Benito Escobar. Intimate little
are more likely to be spotted here than
restaurant serving up a range of Honduran and
Mexican dishes. With a popular bar to the back, anywhere else in the country.
this place can get very busy in the evenings, only Unfortunately, you can’t just head
adding to its already great atmosphere. Mains off into the mountains: much of the
C$50. terrain is farmed or under coffee
441
 cultivation, and trails are virtually non- blocks north of the Parque. Rooms are
existent. Because it offers an accessible attractive – if unusually sterile – and
route to the forest and mountains, have an option of shared or private
nearly everyone who comes to the bathroom. The hotel also has family
area stays in the hotel Selva Negra, rooms, which are good value if you’re
10km from Matagalpa on the road in a group. For eating, Restaurante Soda
to Jinotega (T 612-3883, W www El Tico (T 782-2059), a block south of
nicaragua

.selvanegra.com; dorms 2 , rooms 5 ). the cathedral, serves up your standard

An establishment of national repute, the buffet-style fare (mains from US$3) and
hotel has individually designed cabañas is always popular with locals for its good
set in beautifully landscaped grounds, service.
and dorms. There’s a pricey restaurant Buses run every thirty minutes to
The southwest

on site serving traditional German fare nearby Matagalpa, taking just over an
as well as local options and a hearty hour, while ten buses daily make the
breakfast buffet (Sun only). The trails trip to the capital, Managua.
are fairly short and it’s perfectly feasible
to come up from Matagalpa early in the
morning and pack most of them into
a day’s hiking; all you’ll have to pay is
the entrance fee of US$1.60 (which can The southwest
be spent at the hotel restaurant if you
don’t want to stay). The hotel’s owners The majority of Nicaragua’s population
have grown coffee here since 1891, and lives in the fertile plain that makes up
the finca still produces some of the best the southwest of the country. Bordered
export-grade coffee in the country; the by Lago de Nicaragua to the east and
estate employs 250 workers, most of the Pacific to the west, and studded by
whom live nearby, with a school and volcanoes – Volcán Masaya, Volcán
health clinic on site. Worthwhile tours Mombacho and the twin cones of
of the operation are run daily at 9am Ometepe’s Concepción and Maderas
and 3pm (US$5 for guests, US$7 for – the southwest is otherwise a flat, low,
visitors). grassy plain, ideally suited to cattle
(indeed, most of what is left of Nicara-
Jinotega gua’s beef industry is concentrated
Set amid cool, lush mountains 34km here), while coffee plantations can be
north of Matagalpa is the pleasantly found at higher altitudes.
nondescript town of Jinotega, famous Masaya, 29km south of Managua,
for the coffee grown nearby. It’s worth and Granada, 26km further south,
coming up here for the ride, as the are the region’s only two cities of any
journey between here and Matagalpa size; Masaya’s enormous crafts market
is one of the most magnificent in attracts virtually everyone who comes
the country, winding slowly though to Nicaragua, while the nearby Parque
misty green mountains. The climate Nacional Volcán Masaya offers the
is significantly cooler than much of most accessible volcano-viewing in
Nicaragua, with low cloud and drizzle the country. The picturesque “Pueblos
not uncommon; bring a sweater or light Blancos”, or White Towns, lie on the
jacket. road connecting Managua, Masaya
Most travellers only stop here on day- and Granada; the latter, with its fading
trips from Matagalpa, but if you miss classical-colonial architecture and
the last bus, the best-value accommo- lakeside setting, is undeniably Nicara-
dation option is Hotel Bosawas (T 782- gua’s most beautiful and popular
3311; 1 ), on Av Central three and a half city, and also makes a good base for
442
 exploring such nearby outdoor attrac- crafts markets. These are of quite recent
tions as the Isletas de Granada and provenance – only during the Sandi-
Volcán Mombacho. Some 75km south nista years did Masaya develop its crafts
of Granada, Rivas, the gateway to Costa tradition into a marketable commodity
Rica, is of little interest in itself, though – but the city is now by far the best
many travellers pass through on their place in the country to buy hammocks,
way south or en route to the popular rocking chairs, traditional clothing,

nicaragua
beach town San Juan del Sur. shoes and other souvenirs. Many of the
crafts on sale come from designs that
Masaya originated in the indigenous barrio of
Set midway between Managua and Monimbó, and the district continues to
Granada and shadowed by the hulking churn out a sizeable proportion of the
region’s handicrafts. Most visitors come

The southwest
form of Volcán Masaya, MASAYA’s
stirring geography would make it an here on day-trips from Managua or
attractive town to visit even if it weren’t Granada – a sensible plan, since Masaya
also the centre of Nicaragua’s artesanía doesn’t have a large range of hotels but
production and home to two colourful the bus services are fast and efficient.

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 converted into the grandly named
What to see and do Centro Cultural (Antiguo Mercado
Masaya is an attractive place to explore de Masaya) – Mercado Nacional de
on foot: there’s fairly little traffic in the Artesanía. Behind the large, fortress-
streets, the heat is bearable and all the style grey walls lies a complex network
sights are within walking distance of of stalls selling paintings, many in the
each other. naïf-art tradition of the Solentiname
nicaragua

archipelago, as well as large, excellent-

quality hammocks, carved wooden
Parque Central
bowls and utensils, simple wood-and-
What little action there is in downtown
bead jewellery, cotton shirts, straw
Masaya takes place in the local hang-
hats and leather footwear, bags and
out, the Parque Central, where
The southwest

purses. Bargaining is accepted, and

– with the help of Spanish finance – La
although prices are generally quoted
Parroquia de la Asunción church has
in córdobas, traders will accept US
been renovated. It boasts images of dollars (small bills are best), though
various Central American saints inside, you may get change in córdobas. There
swathed in coloured satin and wilting are also a few cafés and restaurants in
gold lamé. the grounds, which are the site of the
weekly Jueves de Verbena party night
Iglesia de San Jerónimo (see box below, for details). Check
Rather more plain in its decor is the out the giant wall map of the country,
Iglesia de San Jerónimo, 600m north, which shows the places in Nicaragua
the best example of colonial architec- where crafts are produced. If your
ture in Masaya, despite its run-down Spanish is up to it, ask about visiting
condition. The statue of San Jerónimo artisans at work in their homes and
on the altar depicts an old man wearing workshops.
a loincloth and a straw hat, with a rock
in his hand and blood on his chest, Laguna de Masaya
evidence of self-mortification. Both The Laguna de Masaya beckons on the
churches are open to the public daily western side of town, seven blocks from
6am to 8pm. the Parque Central. Despite its crystal-
line and inviting appearance, the laguna
Mercado Nacional de is actually highly polluted with sewage
Artesanía effluent from the town. It’s still worth
Two blocks east of the Parque Central the walk to see it, however, as the water-
sits the Mercado Viejo, or Old Market front has stunning views of the smoking
(daily 8am–6.30pm), which has been cone of Volcán Masaya (see p.446).

festivities in Masaya
The most exciting time to visit Masaya is on Sundays between mid-September
and mid-December, when the town indulges in a ninety-day period of revelry
known as the Fiesta de San Jerónimo. The beginning of the fiesta sees one of
the most fascinating processions in Nicaragua, the Torovenado, when Monimbó’s
large gay population comes out in style, indulging in a spot of cross-dressing and
pastiche. A more recent invention is the popular Jueves de Verbena festival, held
every Thursday evening throughout the year in the renovated Mercado Nacional
de Artesanía. The evenings are a spirited celebration of indigenous culture, music
and gastronomy, with locals and tourists dancing, singing, eating and drinking the
night away.

444
 bright and cosy rooms, including a dorm, spread over
Arrival and information a tidy and welcoming family house. Rooms come
with shared or private bath and either fan or a/c, and
By bus Buses from Managua and Granada arrive
breakfast is included. Dorms 1, doubles 2
at the huge, dusty terminal next to Masaya’s main
market, to the east of town; it’s a longish walk to
the centre from here, so ask to be let off earlier, at Eating and drinking
the Iglesia San Jerónimo.

nicaragua
By minibus Minibuses from Managua arrive at and Comedor La Criolla A block north of Madera’s Inn.
depart from (every 15min) the street in front of the Offers a popular buffet with filling comida típica
small Parque San Miguel, three blocks east of the plus rarities like cannelloni for C$60 (including a
Parque Central. soft drink).
Tourist information The INTUR office (t522- Fruiti Fruiti Opposite Hotel Regis. A healthy
7615), half a block south of the police station and choice for breakfast (C$30–40) or lunch, with a

The southwest
the Mercado Nacional, can provide some informa- large selection of exotically flavoured smoothies
tion on local hotels and volcano tours. (C$30–40) and decent coffee (C$8).
La Jarochita On Av Sergio Delgadillo, north of La
Accommodation Asunción t522-4831. A charming Mexican restau-
rant where the waitresses are kitted out in tradi-
Masaya isn’t really the place to bed down for the tional dress, and you can dine on authentic burritos
night; the market aside, there’s not a huge amount (C$70), quesadillas (C$60) and mole (C$160), and
to do and most people visit Masaya on a day-trip wash it down with tequila or a cold beer (C$20).
from Granada or Managua. That said, there are Panaderia y Reposteria Norma Across from the
several reasonable budget options for lodging, police station, just north of the Mercado Nacional.
most of them clustered a few blocks north of the Another branch of the cheap and delicious bakery,
Mercado Nacional. with an overwhelming menu of cakes (C$4–9),
Don Pepe A block and a half north of La pastries (C$5–10) and other baked delights, as well
Asunción t 614-4119. A family-run hotel as cheap coffee (C$4).
and restaurant in a converted house, Don Pepe has Restaurante Che-Gris On the southeast corner
a large dining area and lovely garden area, while of the Mercado Nacional. Perfectly situated for a
the four large rooms feature polished wooden quick snack, this place is renowned for its delicious
floors and huge, comfy beds. The tasty comida brochettas (meat on skewers; C$100–180).
típica goes for about C$100 a plate. Singles (with La Ronda An airy bar and restaurant overlooking
shared bath) 4 , doubles (en suite) 5 La Asunción and the Parque Central, La Ronda
Hostal Santamaria Half a block southeast of draws a local crowd with cheap beer (C$16, or
the Mercado Nacional t 522-2411, w www C$28 for a litre).
.hostalsantamarianic.com. The 22 tidy rooms Tele Pizza Half a block north of La Asunción, this
here, all en suite with cable TV, are quiet and cool
place has decent-sized pizzas from C$60–80, as
and just a stone’s throw from the old market.
well as pastas (C$60) and salads (C$60–80).
Singles 3 , doubles 4 –5
Hotel Central Next door to Hotel Regis t 522-
2867. There’s not much difference in ambience Directory
between Central and Regis, its next-door neighbour,
but the rooms are brighter (with private bath Exchange Banks and ATMs are plentiful in Masaya;
optional) and the breakfasts cheaper. 2 there’s a handy Banpro machine in the old market,
Hotel Montecarlo 50m south of Fruti Fruti t 522- and a branch of BAC opposite the police station
2927. Though the downstairs rooms are small and where you can change dollars and traveller’s
dark, there’s a lovely, big, wooden-floored room cheques.
upstairs with balcony; ask if it’s free. 2 Internet Access available at Mi PC a Colores, next
Hotel Regis One block east and half a block south door to Hotel Regis (C$20/hr); they also have dirt-
of Iglesia San Jerónimo t522-2300. A spotlessly cheap international calling rates. Alternatively, try
clean bargain, despite cell-like, wood-panelled USB Cyber Connection (C$20/hr) next to the INTUR
rooms with thin partition walls. 1 office, or the Cablenet Café beside Fruti Fruti.
Madera’s Inn One block north of Hotel Central Post office There’s a tiny office one block north
t533-5825, wwww.hotelmaderasinn of the Mercado Nacional next to the BAC (Mon–Fri
.com. Probably the best of the lot in Masaya, with 13 8am–noon & 1–4.30pm, Sat 8–11.30am).
445
 C$75; t 522-5415) offers you the chance
Moving on
to peer into the smoking cone of a volcano,
By bus to: Granada (daily 4.30am–6pm; 45min); as well as some more typical – but still
Jinotepe (daily 5am–6pm; 1hr 25min); Managua stunning – long-distance views. Gazing
(daily 4.10am–6pm; 1hr 10min). Buses leave from warily down into the crater’s precipitous,
the station next to the municipal market, four sulphurous depths, you can well imagine
blocks north of the artisans’ market, all departing why the Spaniards considered this to be
nicaragua

roughly every fifteen minutes.

the mouth of hell itself – the large white
cross above the crater marks the spot
Around Masaya where a Spanish friar placed a cross in the
Attractions around Masaya include sixteenth century, an attempt to exorcise
the natural sites of Masaya’s namesake the volcano’s demonic presence. This
volcano and a crater-lake, Laguna de
The southwest

is still one of the most active volcanoes

Apoyo, which can be explored on foot in the world; the last eruption occurred
and with a guide. The nearby Pueblos in 2001, but plumes have been spotted
Blancos are famous for various forms since then.
of artisanal crafts, including pottery, The park entrance lies between Km 22
which is made in the small workshops and Km 23 on the Managua–Granada
throughout the villages. The historical highway, about 4km north of Masaya.
site of Coyotepe, meanwhile, is a must You can get off any bus (except the
for anyone interested in the nation’s express) between Managua and Masaya
political history. or Granada at the entrance. Alterna-
tively, you could hire a taxi from Masaya.
Coyotepe About 1.5km before the park entrance,
Three kilometres out of town on the along the approach road, is the Centro
road to Managua is the old fort of de Interpretación Ambiental (daily
Coyotepe. Built on a hilltop by the 9am–4pm), home to an exhibition
Somoza regime to house political outlining the area’s geology, agriculture
prisoners, the abandoned and decaying and pre-Columbian history, along with
structure commands stunning views an interesting three-dimensional display
of Masaya, Laguna de Apoyo and the of the country’s chain of volcanoes. You
volcanoes of Masaya and Mombacho, can organize a guide for excursions into
and also offers an eerie reminder of the the park, use the toilet facilities and
atrocities carried out here by Somoza’s stock up on cold drinks and water here
National Guard: when Sandinistas before the climb.
stormed the fort during the Revolu- From the park entrance you can either
tion, the National Guard responded by hike the fairly steep five-kilometre paved
slaughtering all those inside. Bring a road up to the crater and back again or
torch and you can poke around in the organize transport with a park ranger
darkened and eerie dungeons. From (C$40); ask at the centre detailed above.
Masaya, take any Managua-bound bus You must have a guide to do the hike;
and ask to be let off at the entrance, from the ranger service also offers guided
where a winding path leads up to the tours on two other trails, Sendero Los
untended fort. On your return, simply Coyotes and Sendero de Las Pencas, as
flag any Masaya-bound bus down from well as short trips to the extinct cone of
the roadside. Comelito and the subterranean Cueva
Tzinancanostoc, where you’ll see bizarre
Parque Nacional Volcán lava formations and a bat colony. Look
Masaya out for the stunted bromeliads common
Just outside Masaya, the Parque Nacional to high-altitude volcanic areas, and the
Volcán Masaya (daily 9am–4.45pm; famous chocoyos del cráter, small green
446
parrots that have thrived in an atmos- doubles 4 –6 ) has pretty rooms set in
phere that should be poisonous. a stunning garden with panoramic lake
views and a lakeside bar. The open-air
Pueblos Blancos dorms have the best view, while private
Scattered within a fifteen-kilometre rooms are more expensive and attrac-
radius of Masaya are the “Pueblos tively presented.
Blancos” or White Towns: Nindiri, From Managua, catch an express

nicaragua
Niquinohomo, Masatepe, Catarina, minibus to Granada and ask to be let
Diria and Diriomo. The name comes off at the Laguna entrance; from here,
from the traditional whitewash used on it’s a fifteen-minute taxi ride (C$10)
the villages’ houses – called carburo, it is or a ninety-minute hike. Masaya has
made from water, lime and salt – as well direct buses to the Laguna departing

The southwest
as a past tradition of practising white at 10am and 4pm. Transfers to and
(good, not-evil) magic in the area. The from Crater’s Edge can also be arranged
white buildings are pretty, but there’s not through partner Hostel Oasis in
much more to see: although each town Granada (see p.451).
has its own specific artisan traditions
and fiestas, and local identity is fiercely treat yourself
The Laguna de Apoyo can also
asserted, they seem remarkably similar,
be experienced with a stay
sleepy towns with a few hangers-out at the lush Norome Resort
around nearly identical central squares. & Villas (t270-7154/7155,
Catarina is the prettiest, the main draw w www.noromevillas.com).
being El Mirador, a lookout point at the The rooms are large and
top of the village that stares right down luxurious, equipped with a/c,
into the blue waters of the collapsed en-suite bathrooms, and a
crater lake of Laguna de Apoyo, with private terrace or balcony with
Volcán Masaya looming behind it. hammocks; ask for one with
a lake view. You can choose from
Restaurants, cafés and artesanía stalls
one of several hiking, kayaking
have sprung up around the viewpoint. and horseriding tours, as well as
A regular local bus runs roughly every pampering treats like a massage, or
thirty minutes from Masaya’s main bus you can simply sit back and enjoy
terminal to Catarina. From Granada, the lake-side bar and swimming
buses to Niquinohomo pass through pool. 9
the town, or alternatively you can take
any Masaya or Managua bus and ask to
be let off at the Catarina turning, from Granada
where you’ll need to take another short Set on the western shore of Lago de
bus ride to the edge of the village. Nicaragua, some 50km southeast of
Managua, GRANADA was once the
Laguna de Apoyo jewel of Central America. The oldest
Now a natural reserve, the volcanic lake Spanish-built city in the isthmus, it
known as the Laguna de Apoyo draws was founded in 1524 by Francisco
tourists with its mineral-rich waters, Fernández de Córdoba, who named it
tropical rainforest and stunning views. after his hometown in Spain. During
Nature-lovers will be entranced by the the colonial period Granada became
rare flora and fauna, with animals fabulously rich, its wealth built upon
including howler monkeys, armadillos exploitation: sited only 20km from the
and toucans making their home here. Pacific, the city was a transit point for
Crater’s Edge Hospedaje (t 895-3202, shipments of gold and other minerals
w www.craters-edge.com; dorms 2 , mined throughout the Spanish empire.
447
448
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In the mid-nineteenth century Granada Walker’s ordered burning. Neglected
fell to American adventurer William for many years, the cathedral was much
Walker, who gained control of the city improved by a facelift in 2006.
– and, by default, the entire country for As well as the cathedral, many of the
a brief time. Granada paid dearly for city’s most captivating historic houses
the eventual overthrow of Walker; as line the square. The palatial red house
he retreated in the face of international with white trim on the corner of Calle

nicaragua
resistance, he ordered for the city to be La Calzada, across from the cathedral,
burned to the ground. Small scars from is the Bishop’s Residence, with a
this fire remain visible in several parts columned upstairs veranda typical of
of the city. the former homes of wealthy Granadino
Today Granada is central to the Nicara- burghers.

The southwest
guan government’s tourism ambitions.
The city’s popularity with foreign visitors Casa de Los Tres Mundos
has led to a large-scale restoration of the About 50m north of the cathedral on
old colonial buildings, many of them the Plaza de la Independencia is the
newly repainted in pastel shades, and a stately Casa de Los Tres Mundos (daily
burgeoning network of foreign-owned 7.30am–6pm; C$19; w www.c3mundos
bars, restaurants and hostels have .org). Built in 1724, it has been restored
sprung up. The city also makes a good and turned into a centre of culture and
base from which to explore the lake, music, with art exhibitions and informal
volcanoes, the Zapatera archipelago and rehearsals. Visitors can wander among
Isla de Ometepe, while more adven- its covered and open courtyards and
turous travellers might head on from maze-like corridors – the wooden
here to the Solentiname Islands and San panelling and staircases found within
Carlos (see p.465). are rare in this concrete-and-adobe
country.
What to see and do
Convento de San Francisco
There are few “must see” attractions in Originally dating from the sixteenth
the city itself, but most of the pleasure century but rebuilt in 1867 after Walker’s
is simply in strolling the streets and attack, the historic Convento de San
absorbing the colonial atmosphere – be Francisco (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm,
sure to take a peek through the open Sat 9am–4.30pm; C$40) is two blocks
front doors of the private houses along northeast of the cathedral. The cultural
Calle La Calzada to see the magnificent centre next to the convent has been
interior courtyards which adorn some converted into one of Nicaragua’s best
of the houses. pre-Columbian museums, housing many
of the petroglyphs recovered from Isla
Parque Central Zapatera. Hewn from black volcanic
At the centre of town sits the attractive, basalt in about 1000 AD, these petro-
palm-lined Parque Central, where you glyphs depict anthropomorphic creatures
could spend hours just sitting under – half man, half lizard, turtle or jaguar –
shaded trees. A few small kiosks sell which probably had ritual significance for
snacks, and an ice-cream seller wanders the indigenous peoples who inhabited the
around ringing his handbell in search of islands. It was also from the confines of
trade. On the east side of the Parque is the this convent that in 1535 Frey Bartolomé
large cathedral (open daily to the public de las Casas, apostle of the indigenous
as a house of worship), built in 1712 and peoples of Central America, wrote his
damaged in the 1850s during William historic letter to the Spanish Court,
449
 condemning the Indians’ mistreatment at winding staircase with low railings that
the hands of the Spanish. The Convento leads you upstairs. Once up top, there’s a
also houses the city library: many of wrap-around balcony for taking photos
Walker’s filibusters are buried in the or simply soaking up the view.
catacombs in its basement.
Lago de Nicaragua
Mi Museo The shoreline of Lago de Nicaragua is
nicaragua

Set in a stunning converted colonial about 1km east of the Parque Central;
house one block northwest of the head down the wide boulevard of Calle
Parque Central on the Calle Atravesada, La Calzada and the huge vista of the
Mi Museo (Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, Sun lake stretches across the horizon. The
8am–noon; free) is a gallery showing a lakefront itself is pretty quiet, unless you
The southwest

private collection of over five thousand happen to arrive as the boat from San
pieces of pre-Columbian ceramics, the Carlos or Ometepe is docking, when you
oldest of which dates back to 500 BC. can watch Granadinos meeting friends
Animal forms, depicted on jars, plates and family and see queasy passengers
and urns of various sizes, include birds, disembark as bananas, chickens and
crocodiles and toads. livestock are unloaded along the narrow
dock. To the south a small park lines the
Torre de Nuestra Señora de lake, a few hundred metres beyond which
Los Angeles is the entrance to the town’s Central
For panoramic views of Granada’s roof- Turístico Inturismo (8am–6pm, free
tops, as well as the lake and volcano, after 6pm; C$10; t 879-9068), a group of
climb the tower (open daily; C$20 – pay lakeside bars and cheap eateries, a narrow
the attendant in the stairwell) at La Iglesia little beach and usually packed grassy
de Nuestra Señora de Las Mercedes areas – look for the strange little castle
(The Church of Our Lady of Mercy), that marks the entrance. It’s popular at
also know as La Merced, which sits two weekends, but take care here after dark.
blocks west of the cathedral on Calle 14
de Septiembre; yet to receive a lick of new
paint, it has a shabby-chic charm of its
Arrival and information
own. The tower is accessed at the front of By boat Boats from both San Carlos (2 weekly) and
the church on the left. If you suffer from Altagracia (2 weekly) dock at the pier at the bottom
vertigo, you may be put off by the tiny of C La Calzada.

tour operators in granada

Momobotour On C Atravesada next to the BDF bank t 552-4548, wwww
.mombotour.com. Deals with the area’s original canopy tour (US$35), as well as
kayaking and mountain-biking excursions (US$25 and up).
Nahual Tours Next to Hospedaje Central, C La Calzada t475-9825 or 955-2602,
w www.nahualtours.es.tl. A friendly, Nica-run operator with well-priced tours (from
US$17 per person). There’s also a small souvenir shop at the office selling hand-
made jewellery, postcards and T-shirts.
Nicaragua Adventures Just before Tierra Tour on C La Calzada t552-8461,
w www.nica-adventures.com. The best place in Granada to plan onward travel.
Helpful owner Pierre speaks English, French and German (as well as Spanish) and
can help book La Costeña flights as well as organize tours around the country.
Tierra Tour On C La Calzada two blocks east of the cathedral t 552-8273 or 862-
9580, w www.tierratour.com. Offers tours of the Isletas (US$18 per person), as well
as city and volcano tours; groups of more than two receive a discount.

450
By bus Buses from Managua come into the terminal Hospedaje Valeria C El Martirio, two and a half
west of town, 700m from the Parque Central, from blocks east and half a block north of the cathedral
where you can walk or grab a taxi into the centre t454-1325. A newly converted colonial house with
(expect to pay around C$20). Arriving from Rivas and large rooms all boasting TV, en-suite bath and hot
points south, buses pull up at the mercado, a short water. Guests have free bike and internet use. 5
walk southwest of the centre. Express minivans Hostal Dorado C Real Xalteva near C Atravesada,
from Managua arrive at the small terminal half a one and a half blocks west of the cathedral. A

nicaragua
block south of the Parque Central, though most maze of hammocks, courtyards and rooms, some
will let you off at the plaza. If you’re travelling from of which are a claustrophobe’s nightmare, are set
Costa Rica, the Tica Bus for Managua will stop and in another lovely converted house. The dorms are
let you off at its Granada office. some of the cheapest in town and there’s also free
Tourist information Granada’s INTUR office (Mon– internet and laundry services. Dorms 1 , rooms 3
Fri 8am–noon & 2–5pm; t552-6858) is on C El Hostal Reuben Av Guzmán next door to Hostal
Arsenal, diagonal to the Convento San Francisco, San Angel t552-4591. A central, popular traveller

The southwest
and stocks information on climbing local volcanoes hangout with large rooms set around a courtyard
and other attractions. garden. Accomodation consists of basic private
rooms and musty dorms. Dorms 1 , rooms 3
Hostal San Angel Av Guzmán, half a
City transport
block south of the cathedral t 552-6373,
Taxis Line up in front of the Hotel Alhambra on the [email protected]. This welcoming,
Parque Central. Any trip in Granada should cost family-run hostel offers one of the best deals in
C$10–20. town; the quiet and tidy rooms are all en suite
with good mattresses and a fan, and breakfast is
included. 4
Accommodation Hostel Oasis Granada C Estrada near C
Atravesada, 100m north of Masaya bus terminal
The range of places to stay in Granada has improved
t552-8006, wwww.nicaraguahostel.com. A
immeasurably over the past five years and renovation
self-proclaimed “backpackers’ paradise”, this
work continues apace. The city now boasts a compre-
imaginatively conceived hostel offers comfortable
hensive variety of budget accommodation options.
dorm beds and private rooms in a restored colonial
Amigos B&B C Estrada near C Atravesada, just
house. Also free internet, laundry, bar and even a
before Hostel Oasis Granada t552-2085. A sweet
tiny swimming pool. 2
family-run B&B with dorms, as well as private
rooms. Guests have use of the communal kitchen
and internet, and laundry services are also available
treat yourself

El Patio de Malinche
(US$4–6). Dorms 2 , doubles 3 C Caimito near C El Cisne
The Bearded Monkey C 14 de Septiembre near t552-2235, wwww
C Corral t552-4028, wwww.thebeardedmonkey .patiodelmalinche.com. An
.com. Busy backpacker hangout. The renovated immaculate colonial conversion
colonial house, set around a large, verdant set around a tropical courtyard
courtyard, has hammocks, internet access, TV and (with pool). The rooms feature
a strictly monitored book exchange. You can crash cool tiled floors, high ceilings
in a hammock, in one of the large, impersonal and original wood beams, a/c
dorms or in a variety of private rooms. Snacks and and wireless internet, and those
meals also available on site. Hammock 1 , upstairs have fantastic views of the
dorms 2 , rooms 3 –4 Mombacho volcano. Full breakfast
El Club Corner of C la Libertad and Av Barricada included. 8
t 552-4245, wwww.elclub-nicaragua.com. Chic,
friendly, bar/restaurant with original, luxurious,
great-value rooms – ask for one at the back on the
funky mezzanine level. Singles 7 , doubles 7 Eating
Hospedaje Central C La Calzada t552-5900. The
sprawling accommodation here consists of dorm Granada offers an increasingly cosmopolitan variety
beds, and very basic, screened rooms with either of places to eat, with Italian and Spanish food
shared or private bath. There’s also a popular bar featured prominently. Budget travellers can grab a
and restaurant serving “gringo” food. Dorms 1 , quick but basic bite at the town market, and in the
rooms 2 early evening a couple of small food stands open
451
 up on the Parque Central, selling cheap and filling portions of rice, beans, plantain, salad and meat
meat and rice dishes. come to C$65.“Gringo-style” fast food like burgers
and tacos also come cheap (C$30–40).
Restaurants
Café de Don Simón On the Parque Central. Urbane

treat yourself
little coffee shop with rustic alfresco tables and an El Zaguán C Cervantes, directly
endless choice of coffees (from C$15), popular with behind the cathedral. Tucked
gringos. Daily from 6.30am. down a little side-street just off
nicaragua

Café Melba Opposite Hospedaje Valeria. The only C La Calzada, this grill-house
strictly vegetarian spot in town serves options of has one of the best reputations
green salads (C$50–90) and sandwiches, and has in town. The restaurant is set in
occasional free movie screenings in the evenings. a converted house with a large,
Cafetin Laguna C Estrada, opposite Amigos B&B. open-air courtyard and the
A simple local eatery with hearty breakfasts (C$50– mouth-watering menu includes
The southwest

60) and Nica-style fast food like potato omelette top quality steak and fish
and grilled guapote (C$40–95). – try the melt-in-your-mouth sirloin
Dragon Food 100% C El Arsenal, half a block (C$240) or fresh guapote (C$140).
south of the Convento San Francisco. Authentic Closed Sun.
Chinese food with a great “chop suey popular” for
C$50. You can also request off-menu items and
order take-away. Drinking and nightlife
Euro Café Northwest corner of the Parque Central. A
quiet and comfy café with great coffees (C$14–40), Most travellers in search of alcohol and company
paninis (C$35), salads (C$50–55), ice cream (C$19) tend to head either to C La Calzada or the buzzing
and assorted pastries (C$14–35). There’s free ping- bars at the Hospedaje Central and The Bearded
pong for customers and the building also encom- Monkey. There are also some great venues for
passes a bookstore/exchange and Seeing Hands, a a night out in Granada, with music ranging from
nonprofit which trains blind people as masseuses. acoustic Nicaraguan folk to the ever-present
Garden Café east of Enitel on C La Libertad and strains of reggaeton.
C El Cisne. A cool and quiet haven from the hot
and bustling streets, set around a leafy courtyard Bars and clubs
complete with tinkling fountain, is tucked inside yet Café Nuit 50m east of El Club. A chic, verdant
another colonial conversion. There’s an extensive garden-bar with live music daily; it’s one of the few
breakfast menu (C$20–80) as well as tasty soups places in town where you’ll hear typical Nicaraguan
(C$45), salads and sandwiches, and free wi-fi. music, as well as hip-hop, reggaeton, salsa and
Closed Sun. pop. Beer C$22, cocktails from C$45. Closed Tues.
Kathy’s Waffle House Opposite the San Francisco César Discoteca On the lakefront in the Complejo
convent on C El Arsenal. A breakfast institution in Turístico. Granada’s largest and most popular club
Granada with huge waffles (C$75–90), pancakes has a party setting, under an open-air rancho. Latin
(C$65–95) and omelettes (C$75) served on a and disco rhthyms prevail, and the beer is cheap at
breezy patio terrace looking across to the convent. C$15 a bottle.
Pizzeria Don Luca C La Calzada, opposite Clark’s Bar & Safari Lounge Corner of C la
Hospedaje Cocibolca. Popular and unpretentious, Libertad and C Atravesada. A disco/bar with
with pleasingly authentic Italian food; the home- wonderfully eccentric decor and a tiny dancefloor
made bread is delicious and the fiendishly hot upstairs with booming speakers. Safari Lounge
arrabiata comes recommended. Pizza C$45–75, (bottom floor) is a good spot for people-watching
pastas C$75–95. Closed Mon. with a beer (C$18).
Rainbow Juice Two blocks east of the cathedral El Club Corner of C de la Libertad and Av Barricada
on C La Calzada. While the menu is limited to juice, at El Club hotel. One of the hippest bars in the city
it’s quite the selection, with exotic Nicaraguan fruits with good music, great food and friendly hosts.
that don’t exist elsewhere, like nispero and jocote. Beer C$20–35.
Smoothies, some of which include healthy ginger Mi Tierra On the corner of C Atravesada and C
and other natural additives, are C$20–45, and you Real Xalteva. An upstairs balcony-bar with booming
can also have breakfast (C$30–50). speakers, usually crammed with a merry crowd of
Restaurant Querubes Half a block north of the locals. Below the bar are several eateries, open late
market on C Atravesada. A buffet típica, where hefty for post-boozing munchies. Beer C$18.
452
Nectar C La Calzada. A funky, organic cocktail Around Granada
bar with promo cocktails (C$40–70) and yummy
fruit juice for the non-drinkers (C$25). Trying Although Granada is a convenient
to nab a table outside on the sidewalk is a jumping-off point for trips to Ometepe
mission, but it’s better than sweating inside. and Solentiname (see p.467), there are
Closed Mon. a couple of worthwhile day-trips closer
El Tercer Ojo C El Arsenal, opposite the Convento to hand.

nicaragua
de San Francisco. Deliciously different, vaguely
bohemian tapas bar and deli rolled into one; the
Isla Zapatera
wine-fuelled happy hour (5–7pm) is a particularly
good time.
About 20km south of Granada, in Lago
de Nicaragua, Isla Zapatera is one of
over three hundred and fifty islands
Directory
scattered about the lake, all believed to

The southwest
Bike rental Try Nahual Tours (see p.450; US$4–7 have been formed from the exploded
for either half or a full day) or Hotel Joluva on top of Volcán Mombacho. At 52 square
C Cuiscoma, (US$5/day). kilometres, Zapatera is the largest of
Exchange All banks in town change dollars, and the islands, skirted by attractive bays
the Banco de América Central (BAC), on the corner and topped by the much-eroded form
of C La Calzada and La Libertad, will change travel-
of an extinct volcano. Many of the
ler’s cheques, and also has one of many ATMs in
the city.
pre-Columbian artefacts and treasures
Internet Cafés have sprung up all over around you find in museums throughout
town; most popular is Kablenet on C Real Xalteva the country came from this group
(daily 8am–10pm; C$16/hr). of islands, which must have been of
Laundry Several spots offer services for dirty religious significance for the Chorotega-
travellers; try Mapache on the corner of C La descended people who flourished here
Calzada and C El Cisne (t611-3501). Prices start before the Conquest. Guides should
at C$55; the company also offers free pick-up and
be able to show you El Muerto (The
delivery, as well as bike rentals (C$8/day).
Pharmacy The Praga pharmacy on C Real Xalteva
Dead), a site chock-full of the remains
is well-stocked (daily 7am–10pm). of tombs, several petroglyphs and the
Post office On C El Arsenal (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & scant remains – a few grassy mounds
1–5pm, Sat 8am–noon). and stones – of Sozafe, a site sacred to
Telephones The Enitel office is a block north of the the Chorotegas. These remains apart,
cathedral (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 8am–1pm). there’s really very little to see, bar lovely
views of the lake.
Moving on The only way to go is with a travel
agency, such as Nahual or Tierra Tour
By boat to: Altagracia (Mon & Thurs 3pm; 4hr)
in Granada (see p.450), which offer
and San Carlos (Mon & Thurs 3pm; 14hr) depart
from Granada’s main dock. Tickets (C$30–60 to
informed but costly archeological
Altagracia, C$40–80 to San Carlos) are available excursions to the island (from US$40),
on the day of travel between noon and one or via the Sonzapote project (run by
thirty, from the dock office at the bottom of C La the island’s community). Albergue de
Calzada. Sonzapote (t 899-2927 or 941-2584)
By bus Express minibuses to Managua (frequent; offers basic, solar-powered accom-
50min) leave from a terminal half a block south of modation (1 ) and inexpensive meals,
the Parque Central, while normal buses (frequent; allowing you to explore the island at
1hr 20min) leave from Av Elena Arellano. Buses for
leisure. Sonzapote’s boat makes a ration
Rivas (10 daily; 1hr 15min) and Nandaime (frequent;
1hr) use the small terminal in the market at the
run three times a week (Mon, Wed
southern end of C Atravesada. Masaya-bound buses & Sun; US$5), simultaneously trans-
(both express and normal; frequent; 45min) depart porting guests to and from the island,
from the even smaller terminal next to the Palí on picking passengers up at the dock in the
C 14 de Septiembre. Complejo Turístico.
453
 Isletas de Granada To get to the volcano take any bus
The alternative to a tour of Isla Zapatera from Granada bound for Rivas or
is a lancha ride round the Isletas Nandaime and ask to be let off at the
de Granada. Every tour operator in turn-off for the park (at Intersection
Granada (including Nahual and Tierra El Guanacaste). From the turn-off it’s
Tours) runs boat tours for C$300–400 a 2.5km walk to the entrance, from
per person. These generally last two where it takes two hours to walk to
nicaragua

or three hours and include a stop and the top. Alternatively, you can take the
drink at Restaurant Anis, on one of “Eco-truck” to the summit – it leaves
the islands. Boats depart from Puerto from the reserve entrance at 8.30am,
Cabaña Amarilla, within the Complejo 10am, 1pm and 3pm.
Turístico, a fifteen-minute walk beyond
The southwest

the entrance. Take a hat and plenty of Rivas

sunscreen – the sun out on the water is Most travellers experience RIVAS
punishing. as a dusty bus stop on the way to or
from Costa Rica, San Juan del Sur or
Volcán Mombacho Ometepe, unaware of the important role
Created in 1983, the Reserva Nacional the unprepossessing town has played in
Volcán Mombacho (Tues & Wed Nicaraguan history. Founded in 1736, it
8am–5pm for groups of ten or more, became an important stop on the route
Thurs–Sun for the general public; US$10) of Cornelius Vanderbilt’s Accessory
was set up to protect and study the Transit Company, which ferried goods
unique ecology of Volcán Mombacho, and passengers between the Caribbean
whose slopes are home to one of only and the Pacific via Lago de Nicaragua
two cloudforests (the other is at Volcán – the town’s heyday came during the
Maderas on Isla Ometepe) in Nicara- California Gold Rush, when its languid
gua’s Pacific region. The reserve is run streets were full of prospectors travel-
by the Fundación Cocibolca (w www ling with the Transit Company on their
.mombacho.org), whose interesting way to the goldfields of the western
research station and visitors’ centre US. Modern-day Rivas isn’t anything
at the volcano’s summit acts as the special, but it’s actually not such a bad
centre for the study and protection of place to get stuck for a day.
the reserve’s flora and fauna – which
includes three species of monkey, 22 What to see and do
species of reptile, 87 species of orchid,
175 species of bird and some fifty The colonial church near the Parque
thousand species of insect. There’s also Central, La Parroquia San Pedro, is
an “eco-albergue” with simple rooms worth a visit, primarily for a fresco
where you can bunk down (t 248- featuring a maritime-themed depiction
8234/8235; 5 , dinner, breakfast & of Catholicism triumphing over the God-
transport included). There are four trails less communists. Also worth seeking
around the four craters at the top of the out is the Museo de Antropología e
volcano with signs explaining some of Historia de Rivas (daily 8am–noon,
the reserve’s unique flora and fauna; 2–5pm; C$20), five blocks west of the
El Puma is a 4km “difficult” hike and Parque. Among the museum’s highlights
requires a guide. At the furthest point of are recently unearthed artefacts of the
the trail the views open out to provide a local Nahua Nicarao people dating from
magnificent panoramic vista of Lago de the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries,
Nicaragua, Granada, Las Isletas, Masaya prehistoric animal bones (thought to be
and Laguna de Apoyo. from a mammoth), stuffed animals and
454
even some dusty Latin 78rpm records serving large plates of comida típica for C$45 (drink
from the early twentieth century. included).
Pizza Hot At the northeast corner of the Parque
Central. Slightly greasy pizzas (from C$65) and
Arrival burgers (C$40–45) are an alternative to the usual
By bus Buses pull into the station in the market. fare of beans and rice.
From here it’s a quick taxi (C$20) or papano (bicycle Repostería Don Marcos 50m east of Pizza Hot.

nicaragua
taxi; C$10–20) ride to anywhere in town. Excellent for breakfast or stocking up for a long bus
ride; a pineapple pastry goes for C$3, or a cheese
croissant for C$6.
Accommodation Rincón Mexicano Half a block north of
the Parque Central. Offers a good selection
Hospedaje Coco Next to Hospedaje Primavera
of enchiladas and chimichangas (C$70), and a set
t 563-3298. Slightly cheerier and cleaner than the

The southwest
lunch for C$55. Sit upstairs on the small, breezy
surrounding hostels, Coco offers simple rooms with
balcony.
a fan and shared bathroom. 2 –3
Vila’s Rosti-Pizza On the Parque Central next to
Hospedaje Hilmor Behind La Parroquia San Pedro,
Chop Suey. Serves North American-style steaks,
one block east of the Parque t830-8157. Starkly
salads, burgers and pizzas (C$30–150).
simple rooms (many dark and windowless) with
shared bath. 2
Hospedaje Primavera Next to Tica Bus and the Directory
Shell station [email protected]. Dark,
slightly damp rooms at rock-bottom prices. 1 Exchange BAC (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, Sat
Hotel Gauri One block north of the market, 8.30am–noon), next to the police station, will
t 600-7292. A spotless family-run hotel change traveller’s cheques and dollars and there
where the en-suite rooms all have a fan and are several ATMs around the Parque Central.
(optional) TV; there’s also an on-site budget restau- Internet Cafés are all over Rivas; try Cyber Yesca
rant and secure parking provided. 2 (C$10/hr or C$13/hr on Sun), one block south of
Principe No 4 Next to Hotel Gauri t937-1883. Chop Suey, or Cyber Latino, two and a half blocks
Clean, good-sized rooms (with en suite and fan). west of the Parque, and next to the correo.
The attached restaurant has decent sandwiches Medical care The Farmacia Meridional, three
(C$35–45) and chicken dishes (C$50–60). 2 blocks west and two blocks south of the Parque, is
well-stocked and offers on-site medical consulta-
tions (closed Sun).
Eating Telephones For cheap international calls, the Fono
A quick, cheap meal can be picked up at any of the Center on the southwest corner of the Parque is
comedores in the market, where you’ll find good open daily, with calls from C$2/min.
chicken, pork or beef and rice dishes, and tamales.
There are also some decent restaurants serving Moving on
pizzas, Chinese and Mexican options.
By bus to: Granada (frequent 6am–3pm;
Restaurants 1hr 30min); Managua (frequent 4.30am–5.30pm;
Chop Suey At the southwest corner of the Parque 2hr 30min); Peñas Blancas (9.20am, 9.30am,
Central. A mixed Nica/Chinese menu offering good 10.30am, 10.40am, 11am, 11.30am, noon, 1pm,
chicken fried rice (C$95) and special “chow mein” 1.30pm, 2.30pm, 4.30pm & 5.30pm; 45min);
(C$100) as well as típico plates. San Juan del Sur (frequent 7.30am–5.30pm;
Comedor Emanuel Opposite Hospedaje Primavera. 45min–1hr). All these services depart from the
This local buffet restaurant is a good budget option, ragged market and bus terminal three blocks south

onward travel: Isla de ometepe

One of the three routes out to Isla de Ometepe (see p.460), in Lago de Nicaragua,
is via San Jorge, which is just east of Rivas on the lakeshore. San Jorge is
reachable by both bus and taxi from Rivas; you can get boats from here out to the
island. See p.461 for more information about travel to Ometepe.

455
 and two blocks west of the Parque Central. As well, itself is a long wide stretch of fine dark
both Transnica and Tica Bus pass through Rivas (by sand running between two cliffs. With
the Texaco station) en-route to Central American excellent seafood restaurants and an
capitals.
increasing number of good places to
By taxi This is the best way to get to San Jorge (for
stay, San Juan is the kind of town where
Ometepe); rides cost US$1–2.
you could easily spend a few days.
nicaragua

San Juan del Sur

What to see and do
You would never suspect it, but in the
mid-1800s the sleepy fishing village of The lack of conventional sights in San
SAN JUAN DEL SUR was a crucial Juan del Sur means that most people are
transit point on Cornelius Vanderbilt’s engaged either in sunning themselves
The southwest

transisthmian steamboat line, on which on the beach or undertaking something

people and goods were transported to more energetic in the surrounding
Gold Rush–era California. A second azure seas. The water here is generally
age of glory arrived in the 1980s, as calm and shallow, although in town, it’s
hordes of internacionalistas visited, also somewhat polluted – swim at your
making the town a well-known holiday own risk – so hostels and hotels all offer
spot. Today San Juan del Sur is the most trips to the stunning and fairly deserted
popular beach town in Nicaragua, at beaches just along the coast.
least with foreign travellers – European
backpackers and American surfers Surfing, sailing, diving and
together make up the biggest contin- fishing
gent. Located in a lush valley with Surfing is the most popular sport in
a river running down to the town’s town, and you can easily rent boards and
beach, the setting is beautiful; the beach arrange transport to some of the more

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456
 Refugio de vida silvestre la flor
The Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor, 19km south of San Juan del Sur (C$200
entrance fee; t248-8234/8235, w www.mombacho.org), is an excellent secluded
spot to spend a night. It has good surf, a beautiful white sandy beach and a stand
of shady trees, and there are more great empty beaches within walking distance. It’s
a guarded reserve dedicated to protecting the sea turtles, primarily the Olive Ridley

nicaragua
species, that nest here in large numbers between July and January. Mosquitoes and
voracious sandflies are abundant – take repellent. To reach La Flor you’ll either need
to arrange private transport (taxis cost US$25 one way) or catch the once-daily bus
that leaves San Juan del Sur in the mid-afternoon. There are a couple of tents at La
Flor rented out on a first-come, first-served basis. Camping costs C$500 per night
(for unlimited numbers); otherwise, be prepared to string up a hammock. Contact

The southwest
the park managers for further information.

remote beaches around town. San Juan town; try playas Maderas or Majagual, both north
del Sur is also a good spot for sailing. of the centre, for basic facilities (C$30/hammock,
All-day cruises sailing south to Brasilito C$40/tent, C$60/rent-a-tent); ask at any surf shop
in town for directions.
Beach can be arranged – ask at Casa
Casa 28 Half a block south of El Gato Negro
Oro or Marie’s Bar – while water-taxis to
t 568-2441 or 680-1902. A reasonable budget
playas Maderas and Majagual (12km to option offering basic rooms with a fan and shared
the north), leave from the area in front bath. Quad bikes (US$13/hr) and motorbikes
of Hotel Estrella at 10 or 11am daily, (US$8/hr) are available to rent here. 2
returning at 4 or 5pm (40min; C$160 La Casa Feliz One block east of the
return). You can also travel there by taxi mercado t 689-7906, w www.lacasafeliz
(C$200 one way). Deep-sea fishing is .com. A friendly, Canadian-run surfer haven
very good in this area and a number of with cosy TV room, kitchen and outdoor bamboo
companies organize trips; try Casa Oro shower, as well as groovy low-rider bikes for rent.
Surf rentals, trips and lessons can be arranged
for their backpacker-oriented fishing
here. Dorms 2 , doubles 3
tours. Scuba diving can be organized at
Casa Oro One block west of the Parque Central
the scuba shack 50m north of Tsunami t 568-2415, w www.casaeloro.com. Friendly
bar (w www.scubashack-nicaragua.com; hostel offering dorms as well as comfortable
two-tank dive US$92). rooms with choice of a/c. Boasts a funky garden
patio with hammocks and great kitchen facilities.
Arrival Beach, sailing and surf trips can be arranged here.
Prices double at Easter, Christmas and New Years.
By bus Public buses (C$35) reach San Juan del Dorms 2 , rooms 4
Sur about 45min after leaving Rivas, pulling up Hotel Estrella On the beachfront, half a block west
outside the market. The direct express bus from of Joxi Hotel t568-2210 or 955-1288. With sweet
Mercado Huembes in Managua (daily 4pm, arriving private balconies affording great beach views, and
6.30–7pm) arrives at the same place. nice rooms with shared bath, this hotel is one of the
best deals in town. There’s no communal kitchen
Accommodation or living room but meals are available for about
US$2–4. 1
Like Granada, San Juan del Sur is witnessing a Joxi Hotel Next to Cyber Call t 568-2157. The
considerable expansion of tourist accommodation. charm of this manically busy hotel lies in the large,
There’s everything from well-appointed hotels hammock-bedecked balcony. Simple rooms with
to surfers’ dens. Bear in mind that many places a/c, TV and en-suite. 3
instigate price hikes in high season (Christmas and Rebecca’s Inn Just off the northwestern edge
Easter) and on weekends, during which time you’re of the Parque t675-1048. A family-run inn with
advised to reserve in advance. Campers have colourful, clean, wood-panelled rooms (fan and
several grounds to choose from, though none are in shared bath) and friendly service. 3
457
 street-side BBQ serves great chicken plates for

treat yourself
Pelican Eyes A block and a C$45. Evenings only.
half east of the Parque Central El Gato Negro A block east of Marie’s Bar. A funky,
in San Juan del Sur, Pelican colourful bookstore with a tasty menu, although
Eyes is the one of the plushest the FAQs are pretentiously longer than the food list
hotels in the area, but you (sandwiches C$35–100, great coffees C$20–55).
don’t have to shell out for the Jerry’s Pizza Opposite the central market. Jerry’s
rooms (US$125–370) to benefit has decent pizzas (C$70–125), lasagna (C$90) and
nicaragua

from the amenities on offer. breakfast (C$25–80) during the day, then turns into
There’s a great happy hour a popular bar in the evenings (beer C$18).
(5–8pm) on Wed and Fri nights, Soda Margerita Across from the market on the
when two Toña beers will set you northwest side. Sells good comida típica at C$80
back C$25, and cocktails like a per plate in a simple setting with few tables.
mojito or macuá are two for C$50. Closed Mon.
The southwest

You can also pay US$5 to use the Soda Mariel A block west of Jerry’s. Offers cheap
infinity pools (with staggering views breakfasts (C$15–40), veggie plates (C$25–50) and
of Bahía San Juan) here during the yummy refrescos (C$12–20).
day.
Drinking and nightlife
Eating The seafront bars are perfectly located for soaking
up the sunset with a cold beer. As well as Sunset,
Seafood is king in San Juan del Sur, and a whole several clubs and bars are open as late as three or
baked fish, big enough for two, costs only about four in the morning – all cater to an interesting mix
C$130, while fresh lobster starts at around C$200. of locals, tourists and resident surfers.
There are plenty of bars and restaurants serving Iguana Bar Opposite Marie’s Bar. This place is
seafood along the beachfront, though the same booming at night, when locals and tourists crowd
dishes are considerably cheaper and often equally the huge bamboo balcony overlooking the beach
tasty at the comedores inside the market (C$45 for and bay. Beer C$20–35, cocktails C$35 and up.
a big plate). For those not into seafood there are a Marie’s Bar Across from Iguana Bar. Marie’s is a
number of decent alternatives. long-running gringo drinking hole, with cold beer
Big Wave Dave’s Half a block east of Iguana Bar. (C$20), German snacks and eclectic music.
Dave’s has a tasty menu featuring hearty North Sunset Discoteca One block north of Iguana Bar.
American dishes such as massive, quality burgers The local late-night place of choice to “shake it” to
(C$90–150), good salads (C$50–115) and delicious the sound of reggaeton, salsa and tropical rhythms.
“Big Arse Breakfasts” (C$45–100). Cover C$50, beer C$20.
“Chicken Lady” Asados Juanita, at the central Tsunami Bar 50m north of Marie’s. Hugely popular
market. A word-of-mouth traveller’s favourite, this with a young, surfer crowd, Tsunami’s heaving

into costa rica: Peñas Blancas

Crossing the border at Peñas Blancas can be a time-consuming process; don’t
be surprised if it takes up two hours. Local buses from Rivas go all the way to the
border; if you’re leaving from San Juan del Sur, take the Rivas bus only as far as the
highway and then catch a connecting bus – there’s no need to go all the way back to
Rivas. If you’re travelling on to a Central American capital, you can also head back to
Rivas and catch a Transnica or Tica Bus as it passes through (see p.459 for details).
These buses have proiority at border crossings, which may speed up your journey.
The crossing is open for travellers 8am–8pm. Officials on hand at the gate may
divest you of a US$1 municipal fee to supply you with the relevant forms. Fill them
in and take these to the customs building, where you’ll be charged an exit tax
varying between US$2–4 (US dollars only) according to the time of day. To enter
Costa Rica, you’ll have to buy a tourist card (US$6) in the Nicaraguan migración.
It’s a 500m walk to the Costa Rican migración where you’ll be charged a US$3
municipal fee and from where there is regular onward transport to San José.
458
 dancefloor blares salsa, reggaeton and Latin beats. 5 & 7am, arriving 8.30 & 10.30am). Make sure to
Beer C$20. keep your receipt; if you switch buses in Rivas,
you will need this to show that you have paid your
fare. There are also 8 daily buses – again via Rivas
Directory
– leaving for Granada (2hr 45min; C$55).
Exchange Banks have popped up all over town,
and there are four ATM machines. Bancentro, next

nicaragua
to Big Wave Dave’s, and Banco Pro Credit, one

Lago de
block east of Hotel Estrella (both Mon–Fri 8am–
noon & 1–4.30pm, Sat 8am–noon), will change US

Nicaragua
dollars but not traveller’s cheques.
Bike rental Bikes can be rented at many hotels,
including La Casa Feliz and Hospedaje Elizabeth, for

Lago de Nicaragua
US$6–8/day.
Internet and telephones You can make cheap
Standing on the shore and looking out
international calls at both Cyber Leo (opposite Casa into vast Lago de Nicaragua, it’s not
28) and Cyber Call (next to Joxi Hotel); both charge hard to imagine the surprise of the
an hourly rate of C$20 for internet usage. Spanish navigators who, in 1522, nearly
Laundry Easy to do; several hostels have DIY certain they were heading towards
facilities (washboards, not machines) and there the Pacific, found the lake’s expanse
are several independent laundries charging about instead. In all likelihood, they weren’t
US$3–5 per load; try Andrea’s, half a block south of too far off – merely a few thousand
Casa Oro or Gaby’s, opposite Jerry’s Pizza. years – as both it and Lago de Managua
Medical care Issues can be addressed at the 24hr
were probably once part of the Pacific,
clinic just east of the Texaco gas station.
until seismic activity created the plain
that now separates the lake from the
Moving on ocean. Several millennia later, by the
By bus Public buses leave San Juan del Sur from time the Spanish had arrived, the Lago
outside the market and pull up next to Rivas’ de Nicaragua was the largest fresh-
marketplace about 45min later. There is a “direct” water sea in the Americas after the
express bus – also departing from outside the Great Lakes: fed by freshwater rivers,
market – to Mercado Huembes in Managua (daily the lake water gradually lost its salinity,
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 while the fish trapped in it evolved into meeting of the Papagayo wind from
some of the most unusual types of fish the west and the Caribbean-generated
found anywhere on earth, including trade winds from the east. Crossing
freshwater shark and swordfish. Locally, can be hell for those prone to seasick-
the lake is still known by its indigenous ness. You’ll need to be prepared for the
name, Cocibolca (“sweet sea”). conditions and patient with erratic boat
It’s easy to be captivated by the schedules.
nicaragua

natural beauty and unique cultures

of the islands that dot the southwest Isla de Ometepe
sector of the lake, including twin- Almost everyone who travels through
volcanoed Isla de Ometepe and the Nicaragua comes to ISLA DE
scattering of small islands known as OMETEPE, Lago de Nicaragua’s largest
Lago de Nicaragua

the Solentiname Archipelago. On its island, to experience its lush scenery and
eastern edge the lake is fed by the 170- tranquil atmosphere. Ometepe’s name
kilometre Río San Juan, which you can comes from the Nahuatl language of the
boat down to the remote El Castillo, Chorotegans, the original inhabitants
an old Spanish fort surrounded on all of Nicaragua, who called it Ome Tepetl
sides by pristine jungle. The Río San – “the place of two hills” – for its two
Juan and El Castillo are reached via volcanoes. The island has probably been
the largest town on the east side of the inhabited since the first migration of
lake, San Carlos, a muddy, bug-ridden indigenous groups from Mexico arrived
settlement, mainly used by travellers in this area, and a few stone sculptures
as a transit point. and petroglyphs attest to their presence
Making your way around the lake on the island. Even from the mainland,
can be quite an undertaking: Lago de taking in the sight of its two cones, you
Nicaragua is affected by what locals call can tell it’s a special place.
a “short-wave phenomenon” – short, The higher and more symmetrical
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460
 travel to and from isla De ometepe
The only way to travel between Isla de Ometepe and the mainland is by boat.
Getting to Ometepe
The majority of travellers come by ferry (C$40–60) or lancha (C$30) from San Jorge,
northeast of Rivas (see p.455). There are ten daily departures from San Jorge,
though itineraries change regularly, especially between the rainy and dry seasons,

nicaragua
so it’s best to check before travelling; call Exploring Ometepe (see p.463) or enquire
at the INTUR office in Granada (see p.451). Lanchas and ferries from San Jorge
arrive in Moyogalpa, at the dock at the bottom of the main street, a steep and
narrow avenue lined with shops and the bulk of the town’s accommodation.
There are also currently two boats a week from both Granada (Mon & Thurs,
arriving at 7pm; C$35–60) and San Carlos (Tues & Fri, arriving at midnight; C$50–

Lago de Nicaragua
85), which dock on the north coast, near Altagracia.
Moving on from Ometepe
At the time of writing, returning to San Jorge from Moyogalpa’s dock there were
lanchas at 9am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm and 3.30pm, as well as six daily ferries. Check
w www.transportelacustre.com for current sailing times, though note that ever-
changing schedules mean it is best to double-check times with your hotel owner or
a local tour company (such as Ibesa) the day before you plan to leave. You’ll need
to take an early-morning crossing if you want to travel on to Peñas Blancas and the
Costa Rican border, though if you take the 1.30pm crossing you should still be able
to get on to a Granada or Managua-bound bus.
You can also return to Granada on the ferry, (Wed & Sat 12.30am), or head south
to San Carlos (Mon & Thurs 7.30pm) from the docks outside Altagracia.

(1610m), Nicaragua’s second highest a series of concrete reinforced pools fed

volcano. Much of the island’s 30,000- by natural springs.
strong population live around the foot
of Volcán Concepción, where you’ll Moyogalpa
find the main towns of Moyogalpa and Moyogalpa, the largest town on the
Altagracia. Smaller, extinct Volcán island, sits on the northwest side of
Maderas (1394m) is less perfectly Volcán Concepción. There really isn’t
conical in shape, but clothed with much to see or do in town – even the tiny
precious cloudforest, where you’re archeological museum-cum-internet
likely to spot such wildlife as white- café, with a few pieces of pre-Columbian
faced (carablanca) and howler (mono pottery, is only worth a visit if you’ve got
congo) monkeys, green parrots (loro
some time to kill before heading back to
verde) and blue-tailed birds called
the mainland – and most travellers stay
urracas. Almost all activities on the
either because they’ve arrived on a late
island are based in the outdoors:
ferry or they’re catching an early one
walking, hiking, volcano-viewing,
volunteering and horseriding are in the morning. If you’re looking for a
among the most popular. base from which to explore the island,
tiny Playa Santo Domingo or fincas such
as Magdalena and Merída are more
What to see and do
inviting options.
Ometepe’s sights are a haven for nature-
lovers. In addition to its volcanoes, Altagracia
beaches – particularly Playa Santo While there’s also very little to detain
Domingo – and waterfalls, another travellers in Altagracia, a sleepy
popular spot to visit is the Ojo de Agua, town set slightly inland on Ometepe’s
461
 northeastern side, it is quieter and road circling Concepción (see above),
less touristed than Moyogalpa. The although the first kilometre or so of the
Parque Central is ringed by several road that forks off to Santo Domingo is
pre-Columbian statues found on the in exceptionally bad condition (4WD is
island, while the Museo de Ometepe essential).
(daily 8am–5pm; C$20), off the west
side of the park, houses a few more local Volcán Maderas
nicaragua

archeological finds. The hike (7hr return) up the verdant

slopes of dormant Volcán Maderas
Volcán Concepción is less arduous than the steep climb
The hike (8hr return) up Volcán up and down Concepción, though it
Concepción starts from just outside can nonetheless be a wet, muddy and
Lago de Nicaragua

Altagracia. Much of the climb is slippery walk. The final stretch down
extremely steep and it’s compulsory to into the crater is not for the faint of
hire a guide – see p.463 for suggestions. heart; the rocks are almost sheer and
Note that of the various trails leading you’ll have to use a rope. Birds and
to the volcano, La Sabana – often cited howler monkeys can be heard (if not
as the best access route – is actually one seen) all the way up, and the summit
of the most daunting, with a lack of tree gives stunning views of Concepción
cover that can lead to heat exhaustion. and the lake. The crater itself is eerily
La Concha is probably the best trail, silent and still, its lip covered by a
cooler with more foliage. The hike is mixture of dense, rainforest-like
quite an exercise, but the dramatic views vegetation and a few bromeliad-
from the top, encompassing neigh- encrusted conifers. Mandatory guides
buring Volcán Maderas and the expanse can be hired through a tour agency or
of surrounding Lake Nicaragua, are from the Finca Magdalena for around
breathtaking. C$200–400 per person – see p.463 and
p.464 for details. Make sure you take
Playa Santo Domingo plenty of water, sunscreen and perhaps
Stretching for more than a kilometre a bathing suit; the clear water in the
on the east side of the narrow isthmus crater lagoon is good for a (chilly)
separating the two volcanoes is the swim.
grey-sand Playa Santo Domingo.
This is the most swimming-friendly The rest of the island
beach on the island (though the lake If you have time, it’s worth exploring the
can be surprisingly rough at times), towns dotted around the lower slopes
and many volcano-climbers and hikers of Maderas. Petroglyphs are scattered
spend a day soaking up some sun here. over this part of the island: one group
The beach is accessed from the main of them is located between the hamlets

San diego de alcalÁ

Every year during the third week of November, Altagracia celebrates the week-long
fiesta of San Diego de Alcalá, in honour of the village’s patron saint. If you’re
passing through on November 17 you may be lucky enough to see one of the
highlights of the festival, the Baile del Zompopo (“dance of the leaf-cutter ant”).
The locals set out from the church in a traditional procession through the streets,
parading aloft an image of San Diego. Participants act out the distinctive dance
with tree branches held aloft – representing the indigenous leaf-cutter ant – while
moving to traditional drum rhythms.

462
of Santa Cruz and La Palma – ask at the even if the state of the roads takes a little bit
Finca Magdalena for a guide (C$90), as of getting used to. For bicycles, try Hotel Bahia
you’ll need someone to show you where (US$8/day), Ibesa Tours (US$6/day) or Hacienda
Merída (US$15/unlimited use); mopeds or
they are. Petroglyphs can also been seen
scooters (US$40/24hr) can be hired from Robin-
at the tiny archeological museums in son’s Place (t 691-5044), and motorbikes from
Moyogalpa (see p.461) and Altagracia Ibesa Tours (US$40/day).
(see p.462). Another easy one-hour

nicaragua
Buses A dilapidated bus with an erratic schedule
hike from the Finca Magdalena will shuttles between the Moyogalpa docks and
take you to the pleasant, but extremely Altagracia (usually 3–5 times daily Mon–Sat
cold, San Ramón waterfalls; guides are 6.10am–6pm, Sun 8am–6pm; 1hr 30min), along
available from tour agencies. There’s some pretty bad roads. Some of these buses go on
to Playa Santo Domingo, Mérida (southern Maderas)
also accommodation at the biological
or Balgüe, on the northern side of Maderas, the

Lago de Nicaragua
station here (from C$200/night); ask at jumping-off point for Finca Magdalena and Volcán
Hacienda Mérida (see p.464) for details. Maderas, although schedules fluctuate.
The naturally fed pools at Ojo de Agua, Taxis Minibus taxis vie for tourist trade, charging
or “eye of the water”, a twenty-minute about C$500 for a trip from Mérida to Moyogalpa
hike from Villa Paraíso near Playa Santo – a good option if travelling in a group. You can also
Domingo, also merit a visit. If you’ve hire these drivers/minibuses for the day; beware,
just hiked a volcano, there’s nothing however, of drivers telling you that the last bus has
more refreshing than climbing on the already left in order to get your custom. Try Victor
Velasquez (t857-3659) for taxi services as well
rope swing and diving in to one of the
as volcano camping trips (C$500 per person, two
rainforest-shaded pools. persons minimum) and ecological walks.

Information Accommodation
Tourist Information There’s no INTUR office on
Ometepe’s accommodation is pretty basic, which
Ometepe, but the island’s tour agencies (see below)
means there are plenty of budget options. In town,
also serve as tourist info centres.
rooms are simple, concrete and dry-wall cubicles,
Tour operators Exploring Ometepe (t 647-5179,
while those at the various fincas and haciendas can
E [email protected]), in Moyogalpa be charmingly rustic, with lots of polished wood and
just up from the dock on the left, runs good-value hammocked balconies.
excursions to the San Ramón waterfalls and
guided hikes up both volcanoes (C$200–400 per In Moyogalpa
person, with a minimum of three persons in the Hospedaje Central Three blocks east and one
group). Ibesa Tours, 100m east of the main dock south of the dock t459-4262, Eometepehc
(t 614-1499 or 831-2121, E ibesatourservice @yahoo.com. A good hostel with an on-site bar and
@yahoo.es) can provide car, motorbike and restaurant (mains C$40–120), offering spacious
bicycle rentals, and will help you plan your route doubles with optional a/c and bath, as well as
using their handy free maps. Ibesa also arranges dorms, a relaxing, hammock-bedecked courtyard
guided volcano hikes (C$200–400 per person) and a friendly rescued deer living in the garden.
and offers information on all tourist activities and Hammocks 1 , dorms 1 , rooms 2
accommodation. Hotel Aly 100m up the main street from the
docks t941-0096, [email protected].
Island transport Within stumbling distance of the docks (for early
departures) Aly offers good-sized, simple rooms (all
A dirt and gravel road circles Volcán Concepción, en-suite); a/c costs a bit more. Basic meals are also
though in the rainy season one stretch between served (C$40–100). 2
Moyogalpa and Altagracia can become impassable, Hotel Casa Familiar Three blocks east (uphill) and
while another very rough road (4WD only) goes half a block south of the dock t469-4240,
around Volcán Maderas. Navigating the island’s [email protected]. Friendly option
roads is an adventure in itself. where rooms have private baths and a choice of
Bikes and mopeds Ometepe is actually one of a/c or fan; the knowledgeable owner can provide
the best places in Nicaragua to do some cycling, guides and organize tours. Singles 1 , triples 3
463
 Puesta Del Sol homestay
For an authentic Ometepe experience, consider arranging a homestay with a local
family: this is easily done through the Puesta del Sol collective. For US$15 per
night (plus the cost of three meals), one of fifteen families within the female-led
collective will take you in (offering rooms for up to four people) and share their home
with you. The collective has small plots of land growing organic herbs, fruits and
nicaragua

other plants; you can learn about the cultivation and uses of these plants, as well
as experience life with a typical Nica family. Contact the collective’s president, Cruz
Ponce (t 695-7768), for further details.

In Altagracia Hacienda Mérida On the south side of

Lago de Nicaragua

Hotel Castillo 100m south and 50m west of the Maderas T868-8973, Wwww.hmerida
Parque Central t552-8744, wwww.elhotelcastillo .com. Excellent-value rooms in a sprawling, ex-
.com. Basic but spotlessly clean rooms, some with Somozan “holiday home”. The private rooms (4 )
private bath, as well as a good restaurant, large with balconies have great views, comfy beds and
hammocks and the only cybercafé in town. hammocks, while the dorms (within the original
Singles 1 –3 , doubles 3 –5 staff-house; 1 ) are charmingly cosy. Friendly,
Hotel Central Two blocks north of the Parque English-speaking owner Alvaro can organize all sorts
Central t552-8770. Probably the best choice in of trips and tours, and has also set up various volun-
town, with excellent-value rooms, some with a teering opportunities, from an English exchange
balcony and private bath, and sweet little cabanitas. to work at the local pre-school. Laundry services,
There’s also a restaurant and bicycle rental (C$120; Spanish classes, bike/kayak rentals are available,
8am–6pm). Rooms 2 , cabanitas 2 as well as delicious meals using local products
Posada Cabrera On the north side of Parque (US$2–6). To get here, take a Mérida-bound bus
Central t820-4499. Six simple, tidy rooms (roughly three daily) or a private taxi (US$30; can be
– with rather saggy mattresses – in a friendly arranged by the Hacienda).
family home. You’ll also find a basic cafeteria and Monkey Island Hotel A 15min walk east of
pharmacy on site. 1 Hacienda Mérida T 844-1529 or 659-8961,
W www.freewebs.com/monkeysisland. While the
The rest of the island buildings and grounds lack the historical charm
Finca Magdalena T 855-1403, Wwww of Finca Magdalena or Hacienda Mérida, this hotel
.fincamagdalena.com. This supremely welcoming offers some excellent budget accommodation with
old hacienda, converted by the Sandinistas into camping (1 ), dorms (1 ) and basic private rooms
an organic coffee co-operative (still going strong), (1 ). Meals are also served on request for US$2–3.
has bags of character and stunning views across El Zopilote In the village of El Madroñal, exactly
the lake. Accommodation consists of hammocks or halfway between Balgüe and Playa Santo Domingo
camping (1 ), large dorm rooms (2 ), partitioned W www.ometepezopilote.com. An eccentric, Italian-
private rooms (2 ), or a private en-suite hut (6 ). A owned finca ecológica offering hammocks (1 )
restaurant on the veranda serves hearty meals and and camping space (1 ), as well as dorms (1 )
organic coffee, which you can also buy and take and private rooms (2 ) in rustic thatched huts. The
with you. To get here, take the bus from Altagracia finca hosts occasional full-moon dance parties, and
to Balgüe, from where it’s a 20min walk up a voluntary work opportunities are available. To get
signposted path. here, head for Santa Cruz on Mérida- or Balgüe-
Hotel Finca Santo Domingo At Playa Domingo bound buses.
T820-2247, Wwww.hotelfincasantodomingo
.com. Beach-front rooms here (which accommodate Eating
between one and four people) are clean and large,
with fans or a/c, shared or private bath, lots of Moyogalpa has the largest number of places to
varnished wood and a windswept patio. They also dine on the island. There are also many unmarked
offer small rustic cabinas, which are across the road homes (usually with a barbecue grill out front)
from the beach, and the restaurant serves up buffet where typical meals are prepared from C$45. If
plates of comida típica (C$40–100). Rooms 5 , you’re staying outside of town, most of the fincas
cabinas 6 and haciendas have excellent on-site restaurants.
464
Restaurants Internet In Moyogalpa, try Cyber @rcia, next to
The American A block east of the main dock in the bank on the main street (C$20/hr), or Cyber
Moyogalpa. Café serving gringo-style food like Ometepe, opposite the bank (C$15/hr). Altagracia’s
waffles (C$45–50), chili con carne (C$100), peanut only option is Cyber Vajoma, in the Hotel Castillo
butter and jelly sandwiches (C$35), key lime pie (C$30/hr). Most of the fincas and haciendas also
(C$45) and great coffees (C$10–20). There is also a offer internet access.
book exchange on the premises. Laundry Services are provided by many hotels

nicaragua
Chido’s Pizza Two blocks east and half a block on the island; alternatively, Yogi’s Bar does loads
west of the dock in Moyogalpa. A local hangout with from C$35.
a small patio balcony. Decent pizzas start at C$70 Medical care Emergencies can be attended to at
and cold beer is only C$15. the Héroes y Mártirez Hospital on the road from
Comedor Nicarao West side of the park in Moyogalpa to Altagracia.
Altagracia. A busy little restaurant with large Post office Mail can be sent from the correo,
helpings of comida típica for breakfast (C$30), half a block north of the central park (Mon–Fri

Lago de Nicaragua
lunch and dinner (C$45–50). Closed Sun. 8am–12.30pm & 1–5pm, Sat 8am–noon).
Restaurante Ranchitos Opposite Casa Familiar in Telephones Make calls from Enitel (Mon–Sat
Moyogalpa. A Nica-style menu of meat and seafood 8am–5pm), half a block north of Yogi’s Bar, or try
plates (C$80–100), served under a bamboo-clad Cyber Ometepe (see above).
rancho; there are also a few simple rooms with a
fan and en-suite bath (1 –2 ). San Carlos
Soda Yaras 100m east of the main dock in
Moyogalpa. Serves plates of comida corriente (such
Sleepy, bedraggled SAN CARLOS, at
as fried chicken or steak with rice, beans and salad) the southern end of the lake and the
for C$40. head of the Río San Juan, has to be one
of the most unprepossessing towns in
Drinking and nightlife the whole country. Despite its position
as one of the main transit towns for the
Aside from the occasional full-moon parties at lake area, an air of apathy pervades its
El Zopilote, there’s not a huge party scene on ramshackle buildings and muddy streets.
Ometepe; Moyogalpa has the busiest bars and This could certainly be the fault of the fire
“nightlife’”on the island. that destroyed most of the town in 1984,
Bars
or the climate – baking heat alternates
Johnny’s Place Dock-side in Moyogalpa. with torrential downpours – but there
Johnny’s caters to a local crowd, playing all kinds also appears to be a general lack of civic
of Latin rhythms – salsa, reggaeton, rancho. pride. The people are friendly enough,
Open on weekdays as a bar and at weekends as but you’ll want to plan your connections
a discoteca. so you won’t have to spend the night
Timbo al Tambo Opposite Hotel Aly in Moyogalpa. here – travellers generally pass through
A funky little café/bar playing Latin rhythms to a from Los Chiles in Costa Rica in order to
lively local crowd. Beer C$17.
make the lake trip to Granada, or to go to
Yogi’s Bar Three blocks east and one and
the Solentiname Archipelago. Increas-
a half blocks south of the main dock in
Moyogalpa. A sports bar and restaurant with cold, ingly, more determined ecotourists are
cheap beer (C$15), excellent breakfasts (C$45–65), also coming through to pick up a boat
sandwiches (C$50–70), burgers (C$60–90) and to El Castillo and points further south
fresh-baked desserts (C$10–30). There’s also a along the Río San Juan.
movie room with free daily screenings of films and
international sports matches, and a laundry service. Arrival and information
Directory By air La Costeña flies from Managua to San
Carlos (US$116 return) twice daily (8.30am &
Moyogalpa is home to most of Ometepe’s services. 1.30pm; 45min), landing at the tiny, muddy field of
Exchange Banco ProCredit, three blocks east of an airstrip just north of town. It’s not quite within
the dock on the main street, changes dollars and walking distance from town, but a taxi (5min)
has an ATM. should cost about C$20.
465
 By boat Boats depart Granada for San Carlos
on Mon and Thurs at 2pm, arriving in San Carlos Eating
around 4am the next day at the eastern dock by
Restaurante El Granadino Overlooking the
the Petronic station; from here it’s a 10min walk
Malecón, 100m north of the CANTUR office.
or 2min taxi ride to any of the town’s accommoda-
The best restaurant in town, set on a huge wooden
tion. You can either strike out to find a hotel, or
balcony overlooking the main square and dock.
wait around (for about an hour) for boats on to El
Try a yummy soup (C$60) or their good-value half-
Castillo. The ferry from Solentiname arrives at the
nicaragua

portion plates (C$65).

muelle municipal, or municipal dock, opposite the
Restaurante Kaoma Just behind Soda Fortaleza.
town’s main strip.
Dishes up good, filling seafood and vegetarian (on
By bus Buses (erratic in the rainy season) currently
request) plates for C$80–200.
depart Managua’s Mercado Mayoreo bus terminal
Restaurante El Mirador Inside the ruins of San
at 6am, 7am, 10am and 1pm, taking 9–12 hours to
Carlos’ old fort, this restaurant overlooks the
reach San Carlos; these arrive at an unmarked stop
Lago de Nicaragua

opposite the eastern dock and Petronic station. southwestern end of the dock area. You can dine on
By car If you plan on doing the heroic 300- chicken and seafood dishes in the C$60–90 range.
kilometre drive yourself, get your hands on a sturdy Soda La Amistad Three doors down from Soda
4WD with high clearance. Fortaleza on the Malecón, and similar in menu,
Tourist information There’s a small INTUR office although La Amistad does better barbecued meats
in San Carlos, one block east of the main square (C$30–50).
(Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 2–5pm; Sat 8am–noon; Soda Fortaleza On the Malecón. A super budget
t 853-0301), where you can get up-to-date info on snack spot, with coffee (C$4) and breakfasts (from
Solentiname and points south on the Río San Juan. C$25), as well as lunch and dinner plates, like roast
The CANTUR office (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm), situated chicken, from C$30.
at the main dock in a small hectagonal building Variedades Iris Opposite Restaurante Kaoma.
also provides touristic information, along with a free Serving “gringo-style” fast food, such as hot dogs
map of town. (C$20–35), burgers (C$20), submarine sandwiches
Tour operators Viajes Turísticos, on the main street (C$40–50) and salads (C$50) – a change from
opposite the muelle municipal and CANTUR tourist beans and rice.
booth (t583-0039), runs local boat trips (from
US$120; 8-person maximum) and is a wealth of Directory
information, a handy alternative if the tourist offices
are closed. Exchange The Banco de Finanzas, one block
east of the Parque Central, will change dollars but
there’s no ATM, so arrive with plenty of cash.
Accommodation
Internet Access can be found at Cyber Café Infinito,
San Carlos has a lot of transient traffic, which half a block north of the bank (C$20/hr), although
is reflected in the spartan decor and indifferent the (frequently) slow connections require a saint’s
management style of its hotels. There’s little to patience.
choose between the few vaguely acceptable and not Post office One block further east from the bank
overly bug-ridden, sinister or noisy places in town. (Mon–Fri 8am–noon & 1pm–5pm, Sat 8am–1pm).
Hospedaje Peña Just north of Restaurante Don’t expect mail sent from here to get anywhere
Kaoma t283-0298. Cramped and run down, with quickly.
skimpy mattresses and an experience of a shared Telephones Make calls from the Enitel office
bathroom, though at least there are good views of next to the post office (Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, Sun
the lake from the upstairs rooms. 1 9am–5pm).
Hotel Cabinas Leyko Two blocks west of the Parque
t583-0354. Decent, if slightly damp wooden rooms Moving on
with wall fan or a/c, screened windows (a must here)
and shared or private bath. There’s also a balcony By air There are currently two daily flights (9.25am
with rocking chairs and lake views. 3–6 & 2.25pm) from the tiny airport at San Carlos to
Hotel San Carlos In front of the market t583- Managua.
0256. The place of choice for the itinerant crowd, By boat Boats departing for Solentiname leave
with damp, musty, insalubrious and noisy rooms; from the main dock in San Carlos, while those for
the sole saving grace is the wooden porch right on Granada, El Castillo, Sabalos, San Juan del Norte,
the water. 2 Ometepe and Los Chiles leave from the dock on
466
the east side, by the Petronic station. The current pintores primitivos, if your Spanish is
return schedule for Altagracia/Granada is Tues and up to it. Much of the wildlife in the
Fri at 3pm. area corresponds to that of northern
By bus The gruelling bus to Managua (6am &
Costa Rica, just over the border, and
8am; 10–15hr) departs from opposite the Petronic
Station. the dense jungles stretching from the
eastern shore of Lago de Nicaragua to
Solentiname the Caribbean.

nicaragua
archipelago
Arrival
Lying in the southeast corner of Lago
de Nicaragua, the SOLENTINAME By boat A “ferry” goes to Mancarrón (also
ARCHIPELAGO is made up of 36 calling at La Venada and San Fernando) from
islands of varying size. For a long time San Carlos twice a week (Tues & Fri noon;

Lago de Nicaragua
3hr; C$80), although it’s always best to check
it was the islands’ colony of naïf-art
departure times at the dock. Unless you come on
painters that brought it fame – priest
a tour, this is currently the only way to get here
and poet Ernesto Cardenal lived here by scheduled transport, although unscheduled
for many years before becoming the private pangas make the same trip, leaving
Sandinistas’ Minister of the Interior constantly – ask around at the San Carlos docks.
in the 1980s, and it was his promotion For group travel, you might want to use the high-
of the archipelago’s primitive art and speed services of the Ortíz family. These services
artisan skills that led to the govern- are also available from ferry-owner José Pineda
ment declaring Solentiname a national (t 466-4712), who also offers Solentiname tours
monument in 1990 – but today the from US$15.
islands are better known for their
unspoilt natural beauty and remark- Accommodation
able wildlife. The archipelago’s isolation
keeps all but the most determined There are currently no restaurants, as
independent travellers away, so it’s a nice such, in Solentiname, although the
departure from the backpacker trail. rise in tourism may prompt locals to
open eateries in the future. Currently,
almost all accommodation options offer
What to see and do
inclusive meals; failing that, owners will
The archipelago’s largest islands are point you to the nearest hotel that has a
also the most densely inhabited: dining room.
Mancarrón, La Venada, San Fernando
On Mancarrón
(also referred to as Isla Elvis Chavarría)
Buen Amigo T 869-6619. A clean, basic and
and Mancarroncito. Most people stay friendly hospedaje located up the hill past the
on Mancarrón and make trips to San Hotel Mancarrón. You can also buy meals for
Fernando and other nearby islands. It’s C$60 –140. 2
worth paying a visit to the small MUAS Cabañas Villa Esperanza Opposite Buen
museum on San Fernando (US$2), Amigo t 583-9020. Three sweet little cabinitas,
where you’ll find information on the all painted green. Rates include three meals per
local wildlife, petroglyphs, medicinal day. 4
plants and, of course, the local artisanal
process – you’ll also have the opportu- On San Fernando
Celentiname T893-1977, Wwww
nity to purchase artwork here. Make
.solentiname.com. A 15min walk left of the
sure you bring plenty of córdobas with main dock, the pretty wooden cabinas and terrazas
you – there’s nowhere to change money here are set in a luscious garden and have superb
on the islands. Other than that, there’s views. Rates are all-inclusive. 5
absolutely nothing to do in Solenti- Hotel Cabañas Paraíso Opposite Mire Estrellas,
name, except hunt out some of the T894-7331 or 278-3998. The most modern
467
 accommodation on San Fernando, with large and area. Wildlife is abundant along the
airy rooms and a terraza dining room overlooking river, and travellers who venture up- or
the lake (which serves as the island’s bar and downstream will certainly spot sloths,
restaurant). 6
howler monkeys, parrots and macaws,
Mire Estrellas Beside the dock t894-7331.
Cheap, simple rooms with a hammocked balcony bats, storks, caimans and perhaps even
on the lake. 2 a tapir.
nicaragua

Moving on El Castillo
The full name of the Río San Juan’s
By boat Returning to San Carlos, boats depart from historic fort is La Fortaleza de la Limpia
Mancarrón at 4.30am on Tues and Fri. y Inmaculada Concepción, though
everyone refers to it simply as El Castillo.
Río San Juan
Lago de Nicaragua

Lying on a hillock beside a narrow

At one hundred and seventy kilometres stretch of the Río San Juan, the fort
in length, the mighty RÍO SAN JUAN was built by the Spanish as a defensive
is one of the most important rivers in measure against the pirates who contin-
Central America. In colonial times it ually sacked Granada in the seventeenth
was the route by which the nascent cities century. It was more or less effective
of Granada and León were supplied for a hundred years, until the British
by Spain and emptied of their treasure finally took it in 1780, after which it was
by pirates, though nowadays the river abandoned for nearly two centuries. The
area has staked its economic hopes on Nicaraguan Ministry of Tourism, with
ecotourism. Relatively pristine, it’s also the help of funds from various overseas
very quiet and somewhat wild – the governments, has now renovated and
only settlements nearby are remote and restored the low stone structure. There’s
sleepy villages whose inhabitants make a library (closed at weekends) inside
their living by fishing and farming. If the walls with over a thousand books on
you don’t mind being hundreds of miles the history of the castle and the Río San
from civilization of any kind, then a
Juan area, plus a small museum (daily
boat ride on the Río San Juan is the trip
8am–noon & 2–5pm; US$2) with dusty
for you.
armaments of the period, information
You do have to be prepared to do
on the area’s history and a few random
battle with the elements. Make sure you
artefacts found during the restoration of
have a mosquito net, raincoat, plastic
the castle. There’s also a small tourism
bags, sunglasses, mosquito repellent,
office just up from the dock (Mon–Sat
sunscreen, a torch, good boots (available
8–11am & 2–5pm), run by the Asoci-
to borrow from guides and river lodges),
ación Municipal de Ecoturismo El
matches, candles, bottled water, a first-
Castillo (t 583-0185). They offer canoe
aid kit and, if possible, a snakebite
kit. The nearest medical assistance is trips (US$35; 3–4hr) and walking
available on the Costa Rican side, in Los tours in the nearby biological reserve.
Chiles and in Ciudad Quesada, so you Local guide Miguel Su (t 432-8441,
e [email protected]) leads kayak
should be prepared for any emergency.
and canoe river tours from El Castillo
(in Spanish & English; US$25 for 5hr).
What to see and do
Most travellers see the Río San Juan Reserva Biológica Indio
from a boat between San Carlos on Maíz
the eastern shore of Lago de Nicaragua Downstream from El Castillo, heading
and the old Spanish fort of El Castillo, out towards the Caribbean, the northern
the only real tourist attraction in the bank of the Río San Juan forms part of
468
the 3000-square-kilometre Reserva Castillo, the small riverside town of Sabalos also
Biológica Indio Maíz, the largest nature offers much better accomodation than you’ll find
reserve in Nicaragua. The climate here is in San Carlos. Sabalos can be reached on lanchas
travelling between San Carlos and El Castillo, or by
very wet and hot, with the vast expanses
private panga.
of dense rainforest sheltering many
species, including the elusive manatee, El Castillo
jaguars, tapirs, scarlet macaws, parrots Albergue El Castillo On the hill by the entrance to

nicaragua
and toucans. The pristine Indio Maíz the ruins t939-4477. Offers simple but comfort-
vegetation stands in sharp contrast with able rooms with mosquito nets and fans in a huge,
the Costa Rican side, where agriculture wooden cabin-style hotel with balcony and great
river views. Breakfast is included. 3
and logging have eroded the forest. The
Casa de Huésped Chinandegano 5min from the
only real tourist infrastructure in the dock, on the left t583-0191. A hotel and restau-

Lago de Nicaragua
area is Refugio Bartola (t 880-8754), rant with small, colourful and spotlessly tidy rooms
a scientific research station offering (plus great mattresses). The comida típica, served
eleven rudimentary but comfortable on the large, riverfront balcony, is great value
wooden rooms (7 ), all with private (C$40–80). Singles 2 , doubles 3
bath and full board. Hospedaje Melany 5min from the dock, on the
While you’ll have to hire a private boat right t 404-8777 or 621-7298. A pretty, riverside
house with fantastic upstairs balcony. The rates
from El Castillo (at least US$40 one way)
for the large, comfortable rooms (mostly en-suite)
to get to the research station, it is possible include breakfast. Tours (including kayaking:
to travel all the way from San Carlos US$35/per person, 5hr) can be arranged here. 3
down to San Juan del Norte on the Hospedaje Universal t666-3264. Just left of
Caribbean by cheap scheduled transport the dock, this is a basic, family-run hostel, with
(Tues & Fri 6am; 9hr; C$180). From small, wood partition rooms and shared modern
there you just might be able to hitch a lift bath along with a newly built wooden balcony (with
on a boat going up the coast. For such hammocks) right on the river. 1
an adventure, however, you’ll need a lot
Sábalos
of time and even more cash; the scarcity Hotel Sábalos t 894-9377, w www.hotelsabalos
of public transport beyond San Juan del .com.ni. A great budget hotel just up the river
Norte means that boat owners can pretty from Sábalos Lodge. The en-suite rooms are
much name their price. rather plain, but immaculately tidy, all accessed
by a large, wooden porch overlooking the river. A
River transport variety of tours can be arranged here. Singles 3 ,
doubles 5
Boats Boats leave San Carlos (from next to the Sábalos Lodge t850-7623 or 278-1405
Petronic station) for El Castillo at 8am, noon and (Managua office), w www.sabaloslodge.com.
3pm (2hr 30min; C$77–120); the last returns at A rustic-chic “eco-lodge” with en-suite cabinas in
2pm. During the week there may be several more wild jungle grounds inhabited by howler monkeys
daytime departures. You can also rent a panga
treat yourself

(motorized dugout boat, holding up to eight people) The Monte Cristo River Resort
in San Carlos for about US$180. Ask around at the (t 583-0197 or 649-9012,
docks and compare prices. wwww.montecristoriver
.com), 6km west of El Castillo
Accommodation (the boat from San Carlos to
El Castillo usually stops here),
The trip to and from El Castillo can be completed has luxury wooden cabins with
in a day, but if you want to hang around, the small TV, fridge and kitchen. Further
and friendly village around the fort offers several upscale comforts include a hot
accommodation options and is a charming place tub and swimming pool as well
to rest up for a few days, especially if you’ve been as water-skiing facilities and sport-
travelling hard and fast via San Carlos. fishing trips. 6 –9
Just over halfway between San Carlos and El
469
 into costa rica: Los chiles
There are currently three boats per day (10.30am, 1.30pm, 4pm; C$300) leaving
from the east muelle (dock) in San Carlos for Los Chiles in Costa Rica; note,
however, that in common with most boats in this region, they’ll only leave if and
when full. You’ll have to get your exit stamp from the customs office at the dock
before departure and you’ll pay US$4–6 depending on the time of day, payable in
nicaragua

either dollars or córdobas. Coming the other way the charge is US$8–10 depending
on the time of day. The actual border post is 3km before you reach Los Chiles;
you get an entry stamp to Costa Rica at the Los Chiles muelle. Be aware that
Costa Rican officials are rigorous in their checks on Nicaraguans in this area and
there’s always a chance that your boat will be sent back if you’re travelling with
Nicaraguans whose paperwork isn’t satisfactory.
The Atlantic Coast

and hummingbirds; stay in one of the larger, river- visitors in any number: Bluefields,
front thatched huts for a real Tarzan experience. a raffish and rain-lashed port town,
Meals are available on request from the restaurant and the Corn Islands, two small
(US$5–10). Cabins 5 –7
islands with sandy beaches, swaying
palm trees and a distinctly Caribbean
Eating atmosphere. Outside these areas, the
coast remains a largely unknown tangle
El Castillo of waterways and rainforests, and should
Restaurante Cafalito Right on the dock, this is be approached with caution and negoti-
the most convenient place in town. The tables are ated only with the aid of experienced
upstairs on a lovely wooden open-air deck where
locals. Indeed, there is only one town
you can dine on a whole fried fish for C$140 or
shrimp in garlic sauce for a hefty C$200.
of size in the northern half of the coast
Restaurante Vanessa A few hundred metres – Puerto Cabezas (officially named
along from the dock on the left. A couple of dollars Bilwi). Although few travellers make
will get you a large plate of comida típica (C$90– the trip up here (flying is the only real
150), a drink and even a serving of Vanessa’s transport option), the town is actually
wonderful ice cream. more approachable than Bluefields, with
Soda la Conchita Opposite Restaurante Cafalito. pretty cliffs and beaches within walking
Perfectly located for a quick, cheap lunch (C$40) distance as well as various worthwhile
before catching the 2pm boat; dine upstairs for
excursions in the surrounding area.
inspiring views and cooling breezes.
Soda la Orquidea Opposite Hospedaje Aurora. Has
The possibilities for ecotourism in
a sweet little upstairs balcony for morning coffees this vast coastal region are obvious,
(C$6) and good-value meals (C$35–45). though a scarcity of resources and a
lack of cooperation between central and
local government have so far stymied
all progress, while the long-discussed

The Atlantic
road linking Managua and Bluefields
has similarly failed to leave the drawing

Coast
board. Meanwhile, the region’s extreme
isolation and distance from the market
economy mean that you can’t count on
Nicaragua’s low-lying Atlantic Coast getting food, water and consumer goods
makes up more than half the country’s in most places outside of Puerto Cabezas
total landmass. However, it’s mostly and Bluefields. If you’re intending to
made up of impenetrable mangrove travel outside these areas, or to spend
swamps and jungle, and as such only any length of time in the region, it’s a
a few places in the region attract good idea to stock up on consumer
470
goods – both for yourself and for trade Eco-Hotel El Vivero t517-0340. Just outside
– in one of Managua’s markets. of town on the road from Managua, this is another
good option, with tidy rooms in a large wooden
building, set in the jungle. 6
El Rama
Poor and downtrodden, EL RAMA
Eating and drinking
is a major transit point to the Atlantic
Coast – this is the last town on the coast

nicaragua
Bar Y Restaurante Caribbean Two blocks north
accessible by road, from here on you’ll and three blocks east of the dock. This Dutch-
have to travel by boat or plane – though owned restaurant/bar does seafood for around
most travellers only stop long enough to C$140 and decent comida corriente for C$60. The
wood-panelled upstairs bar doubles as a disco at
change from the Managua bus to a boat
weekends.
for Bluefields, or vice versa. The town

The Atlantic Coast

is nevertheless a pleasant enough place
to spend the night if you don’t manage Moving on
to make a connection, though water By boat The public ferry service (5–7hr; C$140)
shortages are a common problem. along the Río Escondido between El Rama and
Bluefields goes out of service from time to time.
Accommodation When running, it leaves El Rama at 1pm. A better
bet is the high-speed panga (2hr; C$170) that runs
Hospedaje El Viajero tno phone. Just up from daily from 5.30am until about 1pm, although with
the dock on the left, this place has basic, good- sufficient demand another may leave later in the
value upper rooms with balcony. 2 afternoon. An easier alternative is provided by the

History and politics on the Atlantic coast

Unsurprisingly, the Atlantic coast never appealed to the Spanish conquistadors,
and, further repelled by disease, endless jungle, dangerous snakes and persistent
biting insects, the Spanish quickly made tracks for the more hospitable Pacific
zone. As a result, Spanish influence was never as great along this seaboard as
elsewhere, and other nations stepped in to the region. English, French and Dutch
buccaneers had been plying the coast since the late 1500s, and it was they who
first made contact with the Miskito, Sumu and Rama peoples who populated the
area. Today the ethnicity of the region is complex. The indigenous peoples mixed
with slaves brought from Africa and Jamaica to work in the region’s fruit plantations,
and while many inhabitants are Afro-American in appearance, others have
Amerindian features, and some combine both with European traits. Creole English
is still widely spoken.
During the years of the Revolution and the Sandinista government, the FSLN
met with suspicion on the Caribbean Coast. In part this was due to the area’s
traditional mistrust of the government in Managua, and also to a lack of sympathy
with the Sandinistas’ values. Nearly half the Miskito population went into exile
in Honduras, while a much smaller number made their way to Costa Rica. In
1985 the Sandinistas tried to repair relations by granting the region political and
administrative autonomy, creating the territories RAAN (Región Autonomista
Atlántico Norte) and RAAS (Región Autonomista Atlántico Sur), though this
only served to stir up further discontent, being widely seen as an attempt to split
the Atlantic Coast as a political force. In 2002, the Indigenous Council of Elders
announced the creation of an independent “Communitarian Nation of Moskitia”,
with its own parliament and laws. Little seems to have come of this development,
with more weight given to the belated codification, in 2003, of the 1987 autonomy
law. Recently, tensions have arisen in the wake of Hurricane Felix, which struck
RAAN in late 2007; Ortega’s government has postponed general elections due to
the weakened infrastructure of the region, which has resulted in ongoing unrest.
471
 Vargas Peña (in Managua t280-4561, in Bluefields forlorn, an impression compounded by
T 572-1510), which offers a combined bus- the unlikely and unceasing soundtrack
and-panga service from Managua (Mercado Iván of mournful American country music
Montenegro) to Bluefields, costing around C$380
blaring from the bars, restaurants and
and leaving daily at 9pm and arriving in Bluefields
the following morning at around 8am. houses. The foul climate only adds to
By bus There are eight buses daily to Managua, all a definite sense of small-town suffoca-
of which depart in the early morning. tion and on weekends and at nights
nicaragua

especially, the streets never feel like an

Bluefields especially safe place to be. Tourists are
Despite its romantic name, there are no occasionally targeted for petty theft so
fields, blue or otherwise, near steamy watch your back and (at night) don’t
BLUEFIELDS, the only town of any size stray from the centre of town. This
The Atlantic Coast

on the country’s southern Atlantic Coast. shouldn’t be too difficult, as most of the
In fact, it acquired its name from a Dutch hotels are centrally located.
pirate, Abraham Blaauwveld, who holed The few streets in Bluefields are
up here regularly in the seventeenth named. Calle Central is the main drag
century. It still has something of the and runs north–south alongside the
fugitive charm of a pirate town, perched bay. The three streets running east–west
on the side of a lagoon at the mouth of are Avenida Reyes, Avenida Cabezas
the Río Escondido, though this is about and Avenida Aberdeen. However, no
the only allure it holds. Most travellers one uses these names at all, resorting
only spend a night or two here, on the to the usual method of directing from
way to or from the Corn Islands. landmarks: the Moravian Church,
Except in May, when there’s a short dry the Mercado at the end of Avenida
season, it rains torrentially. During these Aberdeen and the Parque to the west of
downpours the town can look somewhat town are the most popular ones.

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 '
 ¡Mayo Ya! Festival
During the month of May, particularly in the last week, the streets of Bluefields are
taken over by ¡Mayo Ya! or Palo de Mayo, one of the most exciting fiestas in the
country. Derived from the traditional May Day celebrations of the British Isles and
celebrating the arrival of spring, ¡Mayo Ya! features a mixture of reggae, folklore and
indigenous dance that young Blufileños pair ingeniously with the latest moves from

nicaragua
Jamaica. The celebrations wrap up with the election of the Mayaya Goddess, the
queen of the festivities.

The town is occasionally plagued by Hotel South Atlantic II Adjacent to the Moravian
electricity and water shortages – a good Church t822-2265. The priciest place in the

The Atlantic Coast

reason to bring a torch and batteries, as centre, with private bath, a/c, TV and a gleaming
upstairs “Sports Bar” with American football on TV
well as a few candles, and to stock up on
and an extensive menu. 5
bottled water when you can.
Marda Maus t572-2429. This place by the
central market has a selection of simple, slightly
Arrival and information shabby rooms (many windowless); those upstairs
are cleaner and more spacious. 3
By air La Costeña flights from Managua land at the
Mini-Hotel Cafetin Central Opposite Bancentro
airstrip 3km south of the town centre; remember
t572-2362. Offers one of the best deals in the
to confirm your return flight as soon as you arrive.
centre. Rooms are clean and compact (if madden-
Taxis will take you into town for about C$15.
ingly noisy) with private bath and a choice of fan
By boat The public ferry from El Rama arrives at
or a/c, varying in quality but not price; ask to see a
the dock about 150m north of the town’s Moravian
selection before choosing. 4
Church. From the dock you can walk to all accom-
Pearl Lagoon Next to the correo t572-2411. A
modation in Bluefields’ “centre” – a three-block by
dirt-cheap hospedaje with extremely basic rooms,
three-block area where all the hotels, restaurants
all with fan and double bed. 1
and services are concentrated.
Tourist information The small INTUR office, in
the barrio Central opposite Salon Siu (Mon–Fri Eating
8am–noon & 2–5pm; T572-0221), has friendly
staff who will try to answer any queries you might Except for seafood, which is as plentiful and fresh
have, although a lack of maps and tourist info make as anywhere in Nicaragua, Bluefields doesn’t offer
the office somewhat redundant. a great deal of choice on the eating front. There are
some international choices, but these tend to vary
in quality and rise in price. The cheapest eats are,
Accommodation naturally, found in the market.
Lodging in Bluefields is underwhelming, with
gloomy, noisy, overpriced rooms the norm. The Restaurants
cheaper, more basic establishments attract a raffish Bella Vista Five blocks south and one block east
local clientele – one reason why some places have of the Moravian Church. Set in an atmospheric
a curfew. wooden building with great views, right on the
Bluefields Bay Hotel In barrio Pointeen t572- lagoon, Bella Vista serves tasty and relatively
2143. Probably the best choice in town, with inexpensive seafood; fish (C$60–80), lobster
comfortable rooms boasting private bath, a/c and (C$140–160) and shrimp (C$130) dishes all served
hot water. Breakfast at on-site restuarant Tia Irene with salad and sides, and they also do some basic
is included. 5 Chinese dishes such as chop suey (C$65).
Hotel Aeropuerto Right by the airport t572- Cafetin Johana 100m north of the Moravian
2862. Perfectly located for travellers flying out the Church. Serves comida corriente – everything from
next day, the rooms here are all large. However, grilled pork (C$80) to burgers (C$40) – as well
some are dark and musty while some have wood as large breakfasts (C$50) and great tropical fruit
panelling and windows leading onto a balcony batidos (C$15). There are also a few basic rooms
with great views of the lagoon, so ask to see a for rent as well (with fan, double bed and shared
selection. 3 bath; C$150/night).
473
 Mosquitoes and no seE ‘ums
Bluefields can feel like the mosquito capital of the world, at least at dawn or
dusk, when clouds of the creatures descend on any inch of exposed flesh.
You need to take precautions: use plenty of repellent and wear long sleeves
and trousers (along with socks). Malaria is present in the region – see p.43 for
precautionary details – and coils, a mosquito net and a sleeping bag offer useful
nicaragua

protection as well. If desperate, try rubbing a lime or lemon into your skin (as the
smell puts off most mosquitos), although be careful; doing so during the day will
make ceviche of your skin.
As if that weren’t enough, the sandflies that populate the coast are even more
virulent than the mosquitoes. Known throughout English-speaking Central America
as “no see ‘ums”, sandflies are seemingly immune to every repellent known to
The Atlantic Coast

man except, bizarrely, Avon’s Skin-So-Soft body oil. This is not sold in Bluefields,
but is available at Francy’s Beauty Supplies in Managua’s Metrocentro (see p.421);
otherwise, ask around, as locals in the know may have procured a supply.

Chez Marcel One block south of the Parque. The Thurs–Sun. Cover charges (C$20–30) only apply
tablecloths and plastic flowers here indicate that on weekends.
this restaurant is one of the fanciest places in town, Flotante Five blocks south of the Moravian Church.
but there are some cheap options, like the Caesar Another waterfront building on stilts holding an
salad (C$45) or delicious orange chicken (C$100), indoor dancefloor. With beer from C$15, this is a
which won’t break the bank. popular spot on the weekends.
La Ola 100m east of the correo. A good, mixed Four Brothers On the southwestern
menu of comida corriente (C$25–65), seafood side of town (a short taxi ride), this is the
(C$130) and Chinese dishes (C$80) served on granddaddy of the Caribbean music scene in
a breezy balcony overlooking the main street in Bluefields, and commands a loyal, largely Creole
town. crowd.
Pizza Martinuzzi Next to Chez Marcel. Has good Garibaldi Karaoke Three blocks west of
pizza (from C$40) and roast chicken combos Bancentro. A karaoke outlet for frustrated
(C$35–75), served in a small, fiercely ventilated singers. There’s a cover charge of C$20–30 on
little restaurant. weekends.
Tia Irene in the Bluefields Bay Hotel. A popular Midnight Dreams Three blocks north of the
local choice, this tropical, bamboo-clad rancho sits Moravian Church. A waterfront watering hole with a
on the water and is packed to the rafters on the dancefloor playing country, soca, reggae and Latin
weekends, when the small dancefloor comes alive. rhythms. Beer C$17.
There are daily specials of Creole cuisine including
rondon (C$65), plates of comida típica, and good Directory
cocktails from C$45.
Exchange There are several ATMs in town; one
Drinking and nightlife at Bancentro, opposite Hotel Central, and another
at Banpro opposite the Moravian church. Both
Whatever else it is, Bluefields is certainly not short banks can change dollars but not traveller’s
on nocturnal excitement. Country and western cheques.
strains dominate dancefloors, as well as the Internet Access is available at Atlantic Cyber,
Caribbean-flavours of soca and reggae. It’s a fairly 50m south of the Moravian Church, or at the Cine
safe town for walking although you should travel in Crismar, opposite Chez Marcel (C$10/hr).
groups, especially at night. Post office There’s a correo on the main street,
one block east of La Ola (Mon–Fri 8am–noon &
Bars 1–4.45pm, Sat 8am–noon), although sending mail
Cima Karaoke Bar 50m west of Bancentro. from this coast is notoriously slow.
You’ll probably hear this popular bar, a reggae Telephones Calls can be made from the cyber
and soca stronghold with speakers blasting into cafes or the Enitel office (Mon–Fri 8am–5.40pm,
the street, before you see it. The upstairs club is Sat 8am–1pm), next to Hotel Central.
open daily, while the downstairs karaoke runs
474
 kilometres, with a population of about
Moving on one thousand, the island boasts lush
By air There are several daily flights to Managua palm trees and beautiful white-sand
with La Costeña, as well as flights to Big Corn beaches, great snorkelling and diving,
Island. All flights depart from the airport south of good swimming, and above all, plenty
town. of peace and quiet – with no cars on the
By boat The erratic ferry to El Rama departs from island, traffic consists almost solely of

nicaragua
the northern dock in Bluefields on Mon, Tues, Sat
bikes, dogs and wheelbarrows.
and Sun at 5am.

Corn Island
The Corn Islands
It’s possible to walk round the entire
Lying 70km off the country’s Atlantic island in about three hours. Brig Bay
coast, the CORN ISLANDS offer white

The Atlantic Coast

(just south of the fish-processing plant)
beaches, warm, clear water and even a is very tranquil. Long Bay, across the
bit of dreadlocked Rastafarian culture. airstrip heading east, is quieter and
The islands are the epitome of relaxa- less populated and there are plenty of
tion and the kind of place you come places to swim in either direction. The
to intending to stay for a couple of southwest bay, Picnic Centre, is a fine
days and end up hanging around for a
stretch of sand near a loading dock – it’s
week or more. Like many parts of the
the site of a huge party during Semana
Caribbean coast, during the nineteenth
Santa, when crowds of people come
century both the larger Corn Island and
over from Bluefields and the locals
the tiny Little Corn (or La Islita) were a
set up stalls to sell food and drink.
haven for buccaneers, who used them
Further around the island is South End,
as a base for raiding other ships in the
where there’s some coral reef good for
area or attacking the inland towns on
snorkelling.
Lago de Nicaragua. These days it’s drug-
About 1.5km offshore to the southeast,
runners who use the islands, unfortun-
taely, as part of the transportation route in about twenty metres of clear water, is
for US- and Europe-bound cocaine. The the wreck of a Spanish galleon, while
islands’ other notable trade is in turtle the beach in front of Hotel Paraíso
flesh – officially legal, though conducted boasts three newer wrecks, lacking the
in a rather clandestine manner. Despite historical excitement of the galleon but
these somewhat shady activities, the boasting excellent marine life within
islands are safe to visit and the beaches wading distance of the shore.
are lovely.
Little Corn Island
What to see and do If you’re going to work up the energy
to do anything at all here, it’s likely to
Most visitors pass through the larger be diving or snorkelling; the island
Corn Island, home to all the services has around nine square kilometres of
and with a decent selection of hotels and glorious, healthy reef to explore. Little
restaurants, on the way to idyllic Little Corn is even easier to navigate than its
Corn; it’s best to try them both out, as larger neighbour; everyone will visit
each island has plenty to offer. Easily Pelican Beach, as all pangas arrive and
reached by panga from the bigger island, depart here, and most backpackers stay
Little Corn is extremely quiet, with rustic on Cocal Beach on the east side of the
tourist amenities – bring sunscreen, island. The north end, great for snorkel-
mosquito repellent, a flashlight and an ling, is even more remote and quieter
emergency roll of toilet paper. Set on than the rest of the island, and therefore
just three largely undeveloped square best suited to couples or families.
475
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476
 US$15 for guided snorkel tours. If dives here are
Arrival and information full, try the equally friendly PADI-affiliated Dive Little
Corn, Wwww.divelittlecorn.com, just south of Miss
Corn Island Bridgette’s.
By air The better option, at least for those prone
to seasickness, is to take a plane, not least
because the flight from Managua (1hr) gives
Island transport
an astounding view of the country. La Costeña

nicaragua
(t 263-2142/2144) operates two flights daily Corn Island
from Managua to Corn Island (US$130 return). It’s Buses Two local minibuses circle the island in
important to confirm your return flight once you opposite directions every forty minutes or so,
arrive, particularly around Easter, when things get commencing at 7am (C$5). They pass the airport
very busy. before heading into town or out to the southwest
By boat Cargo boats and freight ferries are now the bay where the ferry comes in.

The Atlantic Coast

only options for water-based travel to the island. Golf carts These can be hired from Arenas Hotel on
Currently, the Rio Escondido (t 572-2668; C$150; Picnic Beach (US$40/3hr), or enquire at the Paraíso
5–7hr) departs Bluefields on Wed at 9am (returning Club (see p.478).
Thurs at 9am), and the Captian D (C$300) leaves on Taxis Await incoming flights at the airport and can
Wed at 10am (returning at midnight on Fri) – phone take you to your hotel; trips cost C$15, or C$20
t 850-2767 to check the schedule. All boats arrive after 8pm.
at the main (and only) dock, the Muelle Principal, on
the west side of the island, opposite Habana Libre Accommodation
restaurant.
Tour operators You can arrange snorkelling trips Corn Island has some decent hospedajes and
through the Hotel Paraíso (see p.478) or Nautilus hotels, which are extremely busy during the
Dive (t575-5077, wwww.divebigcorn.com), who Christmas/New Year period, as well as throughout
also offer dives with boat, guide and complete Semana Santa. Most of the hospedajes are
equipment for US$35 per person, fishing trips scattered around the village and along Brig Bay.
and snorkel tours (US$15). Another option for an If you decide to opt for one of the places towards
organized snorkelling trip is Dorsey Campbell Southwest Bay, be aware that many taxis refuse to
(t659-3634), who lives in the relaxed hamlet of drive on this road due to its poor condition (set to
Sally Peachy; US$12 will get you equipment for as be improved, but this may take years), especially if
long as you want, plus Dorsey’s formidable expertise the weather is less than optimal.
and knowledge of the local coral and marine life. If There’s a fair selection of accommodation on
you can’t get him on the phone, you’ll probably find Little Corn considering its size, much of it lacking
him in the vicinity of the Pulpería Victoria. permanent electricity and running water, but
Tourist information There’s a small INTUR desk, compensating with stunning vistas and first-rate
under construction at the time of going to press, tranquillity.
with maps and information immediately outside of
Big Corn airport. Corn Island
Best View Tucked behind Panorama, just north of
Little Corn Island Brig Bay t575-5118. Great-value, immaculate
By boat A regular panga leaves the small jetty rooms with good, firm beds and clean en-suite
at the northern end of Brig Bay on Corn Island bathrooms; those at the back have amazing ocean
at 10am and 4.30pm daily, returning from Little views. 4
Corn at 7am and 2pm (25min; C$120). A harbour Casa Blanca 100m south along the rough
tax of C$3 must be paid at the harbour entrance beach track skirting Brig Bay. A windswept,
on Big Corn. The boat drops you off on Little isolated hospedaje with clean, atmospheric, but
Corn’s western side, amid the island’s only real tiny wooden rooms. Fans and mosquito nets
cluster of population and facilities, limited as they supplied. There are also pleasant verandas with
are. A concrete causeway serves as the main hammocks. 3
thoroughfare. Lemir Resort Next to Yellowtail t 575-5059. A
Tour operators There are two marine-sports outfits, bargain for those travelling in groups, with large,
both of which run PADI-certifying courses: Dolphin cool cabins set across the road from the sea. 4
Dive (t690-0225, wwww.cornislandsscubadiving Mr Quinn’s Just before Casa Blanca t451-7213.
.com), run from the fancy Hotel Delfines, charges A new green-and-purple casita on the beach with
marginally less at US$35 for a one-tank dive and five simple rooms, all en-suite with fan. One of the
477
 best deals on the island. 3

treat yourself
Morgan’s Hotel Towards North End t575-5052. Derek’s Place North Little
Although this place offers bright, pleasant rooms Corn t665-7688, wwww
with TV, fan and choice of shared bath, its real .dereksplacelittlecorn.com.
attraction lies in the great-value, newly built two- Rustic-chic, wood and bamboo
storey apartments. The upstairs rooms are nicest: cabinas on stilts, on a beautiful
bright and fresh with a balcony, great views and and quiet beach. Set away
from the bustle of the village
nicaragua

sea breezes. 6
Panorama 20m north of the Nautilus Dive Shop and backpacker-hotspot Cocal
t 575-5065. A pretty bungalow offering several Beach, Derrick’s is a treat
new, spotless rooms; the pricier rooms with a/c for couples seeking relaxed
also come with hammocked porches and wicker privacy. 5
rocking chairs. 4 Ensueños On Little Corn left of
Derrick’s wwww.ensuenos
The Atlantic Coast

Silver Sands Near Casa Canada on the east side

of the island t948-1436. Rustic wooden cabinas, -littlecornisland.com. A collection
just off a fabulous, empty beach, set in a large of thatched-hut, candle-lit cabinas
hammock-filled garden. Friendly owner Ira also and houses made of driftwood
and other "organic" materials, all
offers camping (US$8/tent), food on request at the
beautifully and individually designed.
bar/restaurant, snorkel equipment hire and fishing
The outdoor bathroom is something
tours. 4 –6
straight out of Swiss Family
Sweet Dreams Just next to the harbour t 575-
Robinson. Cabinas 4 –5 ,
5195. The location makes this perfect for those
houses 6 –9
heading off to Little Corn. The hotel has simple,
Hotel Paraíso Club At the
tidy rooms, mostly en-suite, and a restaurant
southern end of Brig Bay t575-
attached. 3 –5
5111, w www.paraisoclub.com.
Yellowtail In Sally Peachy by the Pulpería
Attractive thatched cabins with
Victoria t659-3634. Run by the amiable
patio/hammocks set amid palm
Dorsey Campbell, these two brightly painted, little
and banana trees, right on the
cabinas (en-suite with double bed) are a great
beach. There’s also internet access,
deal. 3
snorkelling equipment for hire,
horseriding tours, a laundry service
Little Corn Island and a pleasant restaurant under a
Carlito’s On Cocal Beach t657-0806. A
large rancho. The friendly owners
friendly, beachfront backpacker hangout with can provide help and advice on just
individual en-suite cabinas (3 –4 ), as well as basic about anything island-related, and
rooms (3 ). Meals also available for around C$100. offer discounts for stays of over a
Casa Sunrise On the north end of the island week. Singles 6 , doubles 7
e [email protected]. Thatched cabinas and a
house that can be rented as a whole (US$40/night),
or each room individually. 4 –6
Elsa’a Next to Grace’s on Cocal Beach t 690-
Eating
0215. An island institution, with double cabinas
Seafood lovers are in for a treat on the islands
(4 ) and small double rooms (2 ) in thatched as it’s easy to get a good feed of fish, prawns or
huts on the beach. You can also hire snorkel lobster for reasonable prices (C$100–200). Unfor-
gear by the day and eat in the on-site restaurant tunately, Big Corn Island is also home to some of
(C$90–200). the slowest, most dithering service in Nicaragua;
Grace’s Rasta-coloured bamboo huts are wedged all part of the island’s laid-back charm, but be
between Carlito’s and Elsa’s t853-8179. prepared for a long wait. For inexpensive meals,
Extremely popular, as it’s the only hospedaje on the there are several nameless comedores in town
island with a communal kitchen, and the busiest just opposite the dock (like the green house),
night-time bar on the east side. Singles 2 –4 , which serve large plates of comida típica for
doubles 3 –4 C$50 (drink included). For good deals on Little
Sweet Here 200m north of Carlito’s. Three small, Corn, Elsa’s, Grace’s and Carlito’s places, on the
simple cabinas on the beach (accommodating 1–3 east side, all serve up cold beers and plates for
people), with shared bath. 2 C$100–180.
478
Corn Island Kiosko Vista al Mar Just north of Dolphin Dive.
Café Ruppie Next to Reggae Palace disco. A This is a nondescript little eatery/bar with great
super cheap snack-stop: dine on tacos (C$20) and food, service and cocktails; the piña coladas (C$65;
sandwiches (C$50) on your way to the harbour. Six served in fresh coconuts) are reputedly the best on
simple rooms are also available (US$10). the island, and the snacks are tasty (sandwiches
Fisher’s Cave Beside the harbour entrance, and from C$60).
also known as Lidia’s Place. Seafood specialists, Mango’s Pizza At the bottle house, offers a

nicaragua
with large “natural aquariums”’ from which you welcome change from rice, beans, and all things
can select your dinner. Try the lobster brochettes coconut; the cheesy pizzas (C$150–200) and
(C$180); the portions are large enough to share. calzones (C$100–150) are also available for
Nautilus Eat & Art 5min north of the delivery or take-away!
harbour. This place has a charming balcony Miss Bridgette’s Opposite the dock. Renowned
decked in fishing lanterns, with a creative, inter- for having good seafood at the best prices on the
national (and vegetarian-friendly) menu making island, Miss Bridgette’s is always busy; lobster and

The Atlantic Coast

the most of the local ingredients. Try the Caribbean rondon go for C$150 (the later requires advance
curry (C$120), pizza (C$110), large salads (C$85– notice).
100) or “Nautilus breakfast” with smoothie, coco
bread and homemade guava jam (C$70).
Drinking and nightlife
Seva’s In Sally Peachy near Yellowtail. Locally
reknowned restaurant facing the sea, serving tasty
grilled fish (C$120) and oddities like shrimp chop
Corn Island
Bum Bum On the beach, south of Princesa de la
suey (C$100), as well as sandwiches (C$30–60).
Isla. A new bar (with camping facilities, US$10)
with a large dancefloor under a thatched rancho.
treat yourself

La Princesa de la Isla Just Beer C$20.

south of Hotel Paraíso t 854- Island Style On Long Bay. Opens on the weekends,
2403. Serving delicious Italian serving cold beer (C$20) in a thatched hut on the
meals including superb home- beach.
made pastas (US$14–20) Nico’s The most popular nightspot on the island,
and desserts like panna cotta with a small waterfront balcony and heaving
(US$2), all concocted by an dancefloor where you join locals in “sexy dancing”
authentic Italian chef. Meals to reggaeton and Caribbean rhythms, or swaying to
are cooked upon request and country music. Beer C$20.
require a minimum of three Reggae Palace The biggest disco in town,
hours’ notice. The Princesa also centrally located and spinning reggae, soca and
offers beautiful rooms (US$50/dbl) Garífuna music on weekends. The lack of ventila-
and cabinas (US$75). tion, coupled with frantically swinging hips makes
this place an extremely sweaty venue.
Sweet Corn Dance Hall If it’s more of a local vibe
Little Corn Island you’re after, try this place, at the back of the Sweet
Hotel Casa Iguana On the lower-east side of Corn Minimarket towards the South End area of
the island. A busy little bar/restaurant (with meals the island.
ordered in advance, US$14 lunch & dinner or US$5
for breakfast, per person) serving excellent mojitos Little Corn Island
(C$65) made with organic mint from the garden. The Happy Hut The place to dance to reggae on a
Fourteen luxury cabinas (US$45–85) are also weekend; it’s located in the “village” behind Kiosko
available. Vista al Mar. Beer C$20.
Esther’s Pan de Coco, or coco bread (C$15/
loaf), is famous on the island and comes out Directory
of the oven here at about 2.15pm. Find her on the
path from the school to the baseball field, cooking Exchange On Big Corn Island, the Banpro, south of
out of a small, signed shack. the centre on the road from the airport, has an ATM
Habana Libre Located at the dock, this is the but won’t change traveller’s cheques. It’s best to
most touristy spot on the island – mainly due come armed with plenty of dollars or córdobas.
to the prices. Try the seafood in Cuban sauces, Internet Access on Big Corn Island is provided by
C$160–180. the DSA Cyber Café just beyond Nautilus Eat &Art
479
 The RAAN: northern Nicaragua
The northern coast of Nicaraguan Mosquitia is one of the most impenetrable
and underdeveloped areas of the Americas. No roads connect the area with the
rest of the country, and the many snaking, difficult-to-navigate rivers and lagoons,
separated by thick slabs of jungle, prevent the casual traveller – or any non-local,
for that matter – from visiting the area. Bordered at its northern extent by the Río
nicaragua

Coco, Nicaragua’s frontier with Honduras, Mosquitia is dotted by small settlements

of the indigenous Miskito peoples. The area was highly sensitive during the war
years of the 1980s, when Contra bases in Honduras continually sent guerrilla
parties over the long river border to attack Sandinista army posts and civilian
communities in Mosquitia and beyond. The Sandinistas forcibly evacuated many
Miskitos from their homes, ostensibly to protect them from Contra attacks, but also
The Atlantic Coast

to prevent them from going over to the other side.

Few travellers come to Puerto Cabezas, the only town of any size and
importance in the area: getting around in these parts is difficult and as it’s a region
where people have very little money but a lot of guns, it’s important to know what
you are doing if you venture outside the port town. There are still isolated violent
incidents in the region, most recently concerning the 2008 elections. More than
anywhere else in Nicaragua, services are poor, consumer goods nearly nonexistent,
and food hard to come by. Make sure you bring plenty of córdobas and perhaps a
few dollars too.

(Mon–Fri, 8am–8pm, Sat 5.30–9pm), C$30/hr. fisherman walking the streets with a
On Little Corn, Hotel Los Delphines offers the only day’s catch of fish dangling from his
service, charging a monopolistic C$200/hr. hand, a lumber merchant selling planks
Medical care Assistance can be found at the
to foreign mills, or the government
Hospital on Big Corn, or the Red Cross on Little
Corn.
surveyors working on the all-season
Post office and telephones On Big Corn you can paved road through the jungle that may
make international calls (but not send mail; for this one day link the town with Managua.
you need the farmacia-cum-correo opposite the Nevertheless, there is real potential for
airport, open 7am–9pm) at the Enitel office just tourism here and there’s at least one
round the corner from the Fisher’s Cave restaurant organization (AMICA) in town organ-
(Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 1.30–4pm). izing trips to the isolated communities
Shopping On Big Corn, Nautilus Art & Gift Shop and beauty spots located largely to the
sells hand-made recycled artwork (featuring
south. Given the friendly, and in general,
shells and coconuts) and postcards, while Alvin’s
Fishhouse Gallery near Silver Sands features water-
welcoming nature of the inhabitants, it’s
colours of island scenes by artist Rainy Burnf. a potential that will hopefully be realised
one day, finance notwithstanding.
Puerto Cabezas
Small and scruffy PUERTO CABEZAS What to see and do
or BILWI, as it’s been officially named The town’s amenities are all scattered
in defiance of central governmental within a few blocks of the Parque
control (the name means “snake leaf ” Central, a few hundred metres west
in the Mayangna-Sumo indigenous of the seafront. The water at the local
tongue), is the most important town beach below the hotels can be clear
north of Bluefields and south of La and blue if the wind is blowing from
Ceiba in Honduras. Everyone seems the northeast, although the towns-
to have come to this town of thirty people usually head to Bocana beach
thousand people in order to do some a few kilometres away; taxis can take
kind of business, whether it be a Miskito you here for about C$15.
480
 As well as being the base for AMICA’s Drivers wait at the airport when flights are due to
trips to nearby communities, Puerto arrive.
Cabezas also serves as the head�quarters Tour operators AMICA (t 282-2219,
[email protected]), four blocks south
for YATAMA (Yapti Tasba Masraka
of the main square, runs trips to the lagoon-side
Nanih Aslatakanka, which translates fishing village of Haulover, the long black-sand
roughly as “Children of the Mother beach at Wawa Bar and the small community of
Earth”), a political party which fights

nicaragua
Karata, most of whose members were displaced in
for the rights of the indigenous Atlantic Honduras and Costa Rica during the war but many
Coast peoples, and which is fiercely of whom have now returned.
opposed to central government, whether Tourist information The INTUR office (Mon–Fri
Conservative, Liberal or Sandinista. 8am–noon and 1–5pm), behind the market, 100m
west of Hotel Perez, can provide information about
local hotels and restaurants.

The Atlantic Coast

Arrival and information
By air For security reasons, most travellers arrive Accommodation
by plane. La Costeña flights from Managua touch
down at the airstrip 2km north of the town centre. Hospedaje Bilwi 50m south of Miramar on the
Taxis will cost no more than C$10–15 per person. waterfront. A sprawling guesthouse with cheap but

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481
 poky rooms; those with a/c are more expensive but Bufet de Doña Carol Opposite the market next to
equally small and dark, ask to see a selection. 4 Hotel Perez, is a simle local eatery serving bargain
Hospedaje Tangney Next to Hospedaje Bilwi plates of comida tipica for C$60.
t 697 3518. Another ramshackle, colourful guest- Comedor Abril Opposite Banpro is another cheap,
house with simple and slightly shabby rooms and home-style restaurant with comida corriente from
the choice of fan or a/c. 2 C$50–70 and lobster dishes from C$70.
Hotel Casa Museo 400m north and 100m east of Disco Bar y Restaurante Miramar One block
the INTUR office t792-2225. One of the prettier north and 75m east of the Catholic church, also has
nicaragua

options in town, offering bright rooms with high a small balcony with sea views, but it’s not in the
ceilings and a choice of fan or a/c. Singles 3 , same league as Kabu Payaska even if the beer is
doubles 4 –5 cheaper (C$15). There’re also a few decent Chinese
Hotel Cortijo 1 100m north of the Parque t 792- options on the menu, including chop suey (C$80).
2340. Intimate, cool and comfortable wooden Jumbo On the main street leading northeast from
rooms (all with fan and private bath) strung along the Parque. Offers a cheaper alternative of comida
The Atlantic Coast

a delightful balcony, itself wrapped around a lush típica from C$65, also making its living from
garden with resident parrots. They also have a dancing; reggae, soca, salsa and calypso can be
laundry service and do decent breakfasts with real heard every night except Mon.
coffee. 4 –5 Kabu Payaska Situated on a bluff 2km
Hotel Cortijo 2 The charming and highly recom- north of town, is an unforgettable place
mended sister hotel to Hotel Cortijo 1, located on to enjoy fresh fish (C$200) and bowls of seafood
the street behind main street (running parallel to soup for around C$120; it’s pricey but the glorious
the sea) t282-2223. Also great value, providing Caribbean views make for a memorable meal.
large, seductive wooden rooms with private balcony Restaurante Malecoón 300m south of Liwa
and hammocks. There’s also a convenient wooden Mairin. Another beach-front restaurant specialising
jetty running right down to the beach. 4 –5 in seafood; lobster and shrimp dishes are a reason-
Hotel Perez Fifty metres north of Cortijo 1 able C$120–140, while the cold beers are a good
t 792-2362. This friendly, ageing place boasts the deal at C$14.
novelty of carpeted floors and European-style glass Rosti Pollo Opposite Jumbo’s. The place to eat
windows; the best rooms, which you’ll pay more for, chicken in town, be it fried (C$65), grilled (C$75)
are out back around the old wooden balcony. Meals or a la jalita picante (in hot sauce, C$65). Meals
(C$40–80) and refrescos are also available, as well include a refresco or soft drink.
as internet access (C$15/hr). 3
Directory
treat yourself

Hotel Liwa Mair 50m south

of Hospedaje Tangney Exchange The Banpro opposite the Enitel office
t 792-2225. Under the same has an ATM, and will change dollars but not travel-
management as Casa Museo, lers cheques.
this is the best choice in Internet Access is available at several cafes; try
town; the huge rooms have Cyber Bilwi 100m east of the Atlantico or Kiw@net,
high ceilings and enormous off the Parque Central, both C$15/hr.
windows, and those Medical care Assistance can be sought at the
upstairs have wonderful Clinica & Farmacia Sukia, 100m south of Banpro
private balconies with (Mon–Fri, 1.30–6.30pm, Sat 8am–noon).
hammocks. 5 –6 Telephones There’s an Enitel office (Mon–Fri
8am–6pm, Sat 8am–1pm) at the southern edge of
the Parque for making calls.
Eating and drinking
Moving on
Atlantico 100m west of Cyber Bilwi, is a large bar
(and disco on the weekends) where you can grab a By air As with arrivals, travellers usually depart by
cold beer (C$15) and groove to Soca and Calypso plane on La Costeña flights.
as well as local Miskita rhythms.

482
 Costa Rica

Greece
highlights

xxx
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DAILY BUDGET Basic US$25–30/ AREA 51,000 sq km

rough costs

fact file

occasional treat US$70 LANGUAGES Spanish (official),

DRINK Beer US$1.75 Creole (Mekatelyu) on the
FOOD Casado US$3–5 Caribbean coast
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CURRENCY Costa Rica colón
US$2–6/US$8–15/US$19–34 (CRC; c)
TRAVEL San José–Puerto Viejo CAPITAL San José (population:
(210km) by bus: 4hr 30min, US$8 350,000)
POPULATION 4.1 million INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
T506
TIME ZONE GMT -6hr
483
 Introduction
In sharp contrast to the turbulence experienced by so many of its
neighbours, Costa Rica has become synonymous with stability
and prosperity – Costa Ricans, or Ticos, enjoy the highest
rate of literacy, health care, education and life expectancy in
Costa Rica

the isthmus. The country has a long democratic tradition of

free and open elections, no standing army (it was abolished in
1948) and even a Nobel Peace Prize to its name, won by current
president Oscar Arias. Indeed, Costa Rica’s past and present
are so quiet, comparatively, that it’s often said that the nation
Introduction

lacks a history or identity. This is far from the truth: Costa

Rica’s character is rooted in its distinct local cultures, from the
Afro-Caribbean province of Limón, with its Creole cuisine and
Caribbean English, to the traditional ladino values embodied by
the sabanero (cowboy) of Guanacaste.

For travellers, Costa Rica is regarded landscape: active volcanoes, such as

as the prime ecotourism destination Arenal and Rincón de la Vieja, punctuate
in Central America. Each year many its mountainous spine, while the beaches
thousands of visitors come to experience on both coasts – Jacó, Tamarindo and
the extreme biodiversity offered by its 161 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, among
parks and reserves, from Monteverde others – provide excellent surfing. The
to Corcovado to Tortuguero; hiking, potent combination of sights and activi-
rafting and zip-line canopy tours are the ties, accessibility and the country’s relative
most popular activities for exploring the safety do mean that Costa Rica can on
enormous array of exotic flora and fauna. occasion be expensive and crowded, but
There’s also the country’s incredibly varied no trip to Central America would be
complete without a trip here.

when to visit chronology

Costa Rican weather can be 1000 BC Several autonomous tribes inhabit Costa
unpredictable – and varied – but Rica, the Chorotegas being the most numerous.
you can count on some general Foundations are laid at the Guayabo settlement,
trends. The main rainy season runs which is later abandoned around 1400 AD.
from May to November, peaking 1502 AD Christopher Columbus lands on the
in September and October (on the Caribbean coast.
Caribbean coast, rain falls April–Aug 1506 Diego de Nicuesa is dispatched by Spain’s
and Nov–Dec). These months are King Fernando to govern the region; expedition
less crowded and generally cheaper, fails.
as hotels, tours and activities 1522 A third Spanish expedition sails from Panama
lower their prices to attract the to settle the region, which they name Costa Rica
smaller numbers of tourists. Peak (Rich Coast). The indigenous people begin a
season (Dec, Jan and at Easter) campaign of resistance.
is the most expensive time to visit 1540 The land is named part of the area of New
– accommodation and transportation Spain. Settlement is slow, mainly taking place in the
require advanced bookings during centre of the country. After it’s discovered that there
these times. is no gold in the region, Spain largely ignores its
colony for the next several hundred years.
484
1723 Volcán Irazú erupts, nearly destroying the
capital at Cartago. land routes to
1821 Costa Rica wins its independence from Spain. costa rica
1823 Civil war breaks out, resulting in San José
being named the federal capital. Costa Rica becomes Costa Rica has several land borders
a state in the Federal Republic of Central America. with its neighbours, Nicaragua and
1824 Juan Mora Fernandez becomes the nation’s Panama. The main border crossing
first elected head of state. He encourages coffee with Nicaragua is at Peñas Blancas
(see p.568). Further east, there is

Costa Rica
cultivation with land grants, thereby creating an
elite class of coffee barons. another crossing at Los Chiles (see
1838 Costa Rica withdraws from the Federal p.573), though it also involves a
Republic, and declares itself a sovereign state. boat trip.
1843 Coffee becomes the nation’s major export The main crossing for Panama is
crop after British merchant William Le Lacheur at Paso Canoas (see p.584). Sixaola
(see p.533), on the Caribbean coast,

Basics
establishes a direct trade route between Costa
Rica and England. is a smaller crossing, as is Río
1856 American adventurer William Walker invades Sereno in the southern highlands.
Costa Rica with dreams of annexing Central
America to the US, but is defeated by Costa Rican only airlines to offer direct flights from
troops, including national hero Juan Santamaría.
Europe (Madrid and Amsterdam);
1870 General Tom Guardia seizes power, ruling as
dictator for 12 years. In contrast to his ascent, his
alternatively, connecting flights can
policies include curbing military power and taxation be taken from numerous North
on coffee earnings to fund public works. American cities, including Chicago,
1948 President Rafael Calderón Guardia refuses Houston, Los Angeles, New York and
to relinquish power after losing election to Otilio Toronto. Flights from North America
Ulate. Civil war erupts; “Don Pepe” Figueres defeats also arrive at Liberia International
Calderón, becomes interim president, then returns Airport in Guanacaste, on airlines that
power to Ulate. Later elected to two terms as include Delta, United and Continental,
president, Figueres abolishes the armed forces,
from Atlanta, Miami, Newark and
establishes citizenship rights for blacks and insti-
tutes the female vote.
Vancouver.
1981 Economic crisis – Costa Rica defaults on loan The majority of travellers entering
interest payments, accruing one of world’s highest Costa Rica by land arrive with Tica
per capita debts – and instability, caused by civil Bus (T 2221-0006/8954, W www
war in Nicaragua. .ticabus.com), which provides services
1987 Costa Rican President Oscar Arias Sánchez from neighbouring Central American
is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts in countries. There are overland border
ending the Nicaraguan civil war. crossings with Nicaragua in the west,
2007 Costa Rica signs controversial CAFTA (a free-
and Panama in the east (see box above,
trade agreement with the US and Central American
neighbours) into law after several years of fiery
for routes).
debate.
visas
Costa Rica does not require a visa
for North American and European

Basics nationals for visits of less than thirty

days, though Irish, Australian and
Bulgarian citizens require visas for stays
of thirty to ninety days. A passport valid
ARRIVAL for at least six months and return ticket
Visitors flying to Costa Rica usually are required for everyone entering
arrive at Juan Santamaría Interna- the country. Tourist cards are issued
tional Airport (SJO) in Alajuela (30min upon arrival or may be given to you in
from San José). Iberia and KLM are the advance by your airline. When entering
485
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487
 from Nicaragua or Panama, a tourist If you’re short on time and willing to
card can be obtained from immigration splurge, there is also a network of
(US$6). shuttlebuses that connects most of
Costa Rica’s main tourist destinations.
Getting around These are faster and more comfortable
Buses are by far the cheapest and easiest (a/c) than public buses, and will pick up
way to get around – Costa Rica’s public and drop off at hotels. The best operator
is Gray Line (W www.graylinecostarica
Costa Rica

bus system is remarkably regular, even

in remote areas. .com), which has comprehensive
coverage and charges US$25–43 for a
mid- to long-range journey.
By bus
San José is the hub for virtually all By air
Basics

bus services in the country; it’s often

impossible to travel from one place Costa Rica’s two domestic air
to another without backtracking carriers are Sansa (W www.flysansa
through the capital. See p.505 for a .com) and NatureAir (W www.natureair
list of services out of San José. Bus .com). These offer scheduled services
timetables can be found on W www between San José and many beach desti-
.visitcostarica.com, but it is always nations and provincial towns. These
worth checking with the individual can be very handy, saving many hours
companies, as changes are frequent. of bus travel – flying from San José to
Fares are very reasonable: you are not Tortuguero takes only 55 minutes, as
likely to pay more than 5000c, even for opposed to eight hours of bus and ferry
a mid- to long-distance journey (for rides – and rates are not unreasonable
example, San José–Mal País). Tickets (usually starting from around US$50).
are issued with a seat number and a Both airlines service the same routes;
date; make sure the date is correct NatureAir, although slightly more
– even if the mistake is not yours, you expensive than Sansa at full fare, offers
cannot normally change your ticket “loco” prices (from US$15) for flights
or get a refund. Neither can you buy that are not fully booked. NatureAir
round-trip bus tickets in Costa Rica; flights depart from the Tobias Bolaños
if heading to a popular destination, International Airport in Pavas, 6km
purchase a return ticket as soon as from downtown San José, while Sansa
you arrive in order to assure yourself flights leave from the Juan Santamaría
a seat. International Airport in Alajuela.

addresses in costa rica

As in most of the rest of Central America, Costa Rica’s major cities are mainly laid
out in a grid, with a park or plaza at the centre (Puerto Limón is the only exception).
Calles run north–south, and avenidas east–west. Generally the calles east of the
park are odd-numbered (1, 3, 5 and so on) and the ones west even-numbered (2,
4, 6, etc); the Calle Central (sometimes noted as C 0) is usually immediately east
of the Parque Central. Avenidas are usually even-numbered south of the park,
and odd-numbered north. Exact street numbers tend not to exist; a city address
written in the Guide as “C 16, Av 1/3”, for example, means the place you’re looking
for is on Calle 16, between avenidas 1 and 3, while “Av 1, C 11/13” means it’s on
Avenida 1, between calles 11 and 13. Note that smaller towns (including many
beach towns) don’t have street names, so addresses tend to be given in terms of
landmarks.

488
 day. With the quality of bicycle varying
By car from shiny and new to creaking and
Car rental and gas in Costa Rica are rust-encrusted, it is worth checking the
expensive, and road conditions can be equipment before you pay.
poor, especially in more rural areas.
However, having your own transport Accommodation
can be useful for visiting some of the Although Costa Rica is considered

Costa Rica
country’s more exciting sights, such as one of the most expensive countries in
the Central Valley’s volcanoes and the Central America, there is still a good
Osa Peninsula; there are few public amount of affordable lodging. Most
buses that serve these routes, and the towns have some range of places to stay,
timetables of those that do exist often and even the smallest settlements have
leave you with little time for explora- a basic pensión or hospedaje. US$5–15

Basics
tion. Rentals vary from around US$200 (2500–7500c) a night will cover a dorm
per week for a regular vehicle, and or room in a hostel, while for around
from US$325 for 4WD (both including US$25–35 (12,500–17,500c) a night
insurance), and you can expect to pay you’ll get a comfortable en-suite room,
roughly US$60 a tank on a mid-sized with a fan and possibly even a TV and
vehicle. To rent, you will need a credit phone, in a bed and breakfast environ-
card with sufficient credit for a security ment. There are four HI hostels in Costa
deposit or the entire cost of the rental. Rica (see W www.hihostels.com); card-
Exercise caution in choosing a rental holders can save about US$2 a night.
company – some here have been known When looking at prices, be sure to ask if
to claim for “damage” they insist you the national hotel tax (which stands at
inflicted on their vehicle. Full insurance 16.39 percent, including a three percent
should cover you, and is recommended. “tourist tax”) has been added to the
While the majority of companies are published price. For an explanation of
based in San José, many also have offices the accommodation price codes used
in Liberia, Tamarindo and Jacó. in the Guide, see p.35. Book in advance
Taxis are plentiful in urban areas – if you can; reservations are a necessity in
look for maroon-coloured vehicles with the high season (Dec–April).
yellow triangles containing the license Camping is fairly widespread. In the
number marked on the front passenger beach towns especially, you will usually
door, and a taxi sign on the roof. Intra- find at least one well-equipped private
city trips should set you back about campsite. Alternatively, you might be
US$1–4, while long-distance, inter-city able to find a hotelier (usually in an
trips cost upwards of US$25 – more establishment at the lower end of the
expensive than a shuttle or regular bus. price scale) willing to let you pitch your
tent in the grounds. Though not all
national parks have campsites, the ones
By bicycle
that do are generally good, with at least
Cycling is a cheap and popular way some basic facilities, and cost around
to get around Costa Rica, and it is not US$3 per person per day. You may also
uncommon to spot people pedalling be able to bunk at the ranger station in
along the dusty roads. The poor condi- some national parks.
tion of the country’s roads is really the
only deterrent to this mode of transport; Food and drink
helmets are a must. Most beach towns The cheapest places to eat in Costa Rica
will have at least one bicycle rental are sodas, which are a sort of cross
outlet, with prices from US$3–15 a between North American diners and
489
 British greasy spoons. Sodas, serving served in Limón are especially good.
breakfast and lunch options, offer set In Guanacaste you can get the distinc-
platos del día (daily specials) for about tive corn-based drinks horchata and
US$4. Restaurants, particularly those pinolillo.
serving international fare, can be pricey Costa Rica has several local brands
– expect to pay from US$10 for a main of lager beer (all brewed by the same
course in the capital, and almost double company). Most popular, and cheapest,
that in coastal towns. A town’s central is Imperial, but Bavaria Gold is the best
Costa Rica

market is usually a safe bet for a quick of the bunch. Pilsen and Rock Ice (beer
feed, and if you tire of rice and beans with lemon flavour) are also worth a
or roast chicken, most towns will have try. Imported beers are available in
a budget-friendly pizza parlour or bars, restaurants and hotels as pricier
Chinese restaurant. In general, eateries options.
Basics

here open early, around 7am, and most For an after-dinner drink, try creamy,
are empty or closed by 10 or 10.30pm. Baileys-style coffee liqueurs such as
Tican cuisine can be economical and the famous Café Rica. For those with a
filling, with staples such as gallo pinto stronger stomach, there is an indigenous
(“painted rooster”), a breakfast dish of sugarcane-based spirit, guaro, of which
rice and beans, often served with meat or Cacique is the most popular brand. The
eggs, and casados (“married”), combi- drinking age in Costa Rica is 18, and
nations of rice, beans, salad, plantain many clubs and bars will only admit
and some kind of meat of fish that are those with ID, so carry a photocopy of
frequently large enough for two to your passport.
share. Fried/roast chicken is a national
favourite, with cheap and cheerful Culture and
chains such as Rosti Pollos found every-
etiquette
where. Bocas (“mouth” snacks) are
great for keeping hunger at bay, and are Costa Rica is a friendly country.
commonly offered at bars where there’s Although many Ticos speak English,
no formal menu. Fresh fruit is cheap an effort to communicate in Spanish is
and plentiful – try some less familiar much appreciated; a greeting – usually
fruits, like mamones chinos (a kind of “Buenas”, a shortening of “good day/
lychee), maracuya (passion fruit) and afternoon/evening” – is always well
marañón, whose seed is the cashew nut. received. Though officially a Catholic
With so much fresh produce, vegetar- nation, the degrees of orthodoxy are
ians generally do quite well in Costa hugely varied and many denominations
Rica; most menus will have a meat-free of Christianity are observed.
option. You will also find excellent fresh Macho attitudes still exist. Gay and
fish here, including pargo (red snapper) lesbian travellers should be discreet, but
and corvina (sea bass), with Tican-style an increasing number of gay-friendly
ceviche as a speciality. hotels and nightclubs, particularly
in the capital, tells of a gradual shift
Drink in mentality. Solo women can travel
alone with relative confidence. While
Costa Rica is famous for its coffee, and it gringa-enticement is a rather competi-
is not hard to locate a decent café negro. tive and popular way to pass the time
Another highlight of Costa Rica are its – particularly in beach towns – and
juices or refrescos naturales, combining such focused attention can be intimi-
fresh tropical fruit, ice and either milk dating, it is usually harmless and can be
(leche) or water (agua). You’ll find herb easily ignored. Women wanting to visit
teas throughout the country; those a church will need to make sure their
490
shoulders are covered and that they
have something to cover their heads. dANGERS OF THE OCEAN
Friendly bartering is worth a try at The only downside to all the fantastic
craft and artisan markets, but you are water sports and activities on offer
unlikely to get discounts anywhere in Costa Rica are the threats of the
else. In regard to tipping, most restau- sea: powerful currents combined
rants include a ten percent service with a lack of lifeguards – or even
appropriate medical assistance

Costa Rica
charge in the bill. In fancier establish-
– on many beaches has resulted
ments, a small tip is expected. It is also
in an unfortunate track-record of
polite to offer a token amount when drowning tourists. Popular beaches
photographing locals or performers will have signs or flags warning of
(especially in a touristy setting). danger zones, but it is always worth
seeking local advice before wading

Basics
Sports and outdoor out for a swim.
activities
With a national team that has quali- There’s also a vast array of land-based
fied for the last three World Cups, sights on offer, and many activities with
fútbol (or soccer) is Costa Rica’s most which to enjoy them. Zip-line canopy
popular spectator sport. There’s a tours make the most of the country’s
fiercely competitive national league, and ancient rainforests, while hiking is
you’ll find some kind of pitch in every the best way to visit the nation’s many
town. Check W www.futboltico.com for volcanic sites; horseriding is also
current information on the national frequently offered for volcano tours but
teams, tickets and schedules. check the condition of the horses before
The nation’s surf – some of the best in you pay, as animal neglect or mistreat-
Central America – is one of its biggest ment is not unknown.
draws. Over fifty well-known breaks
dot the Pacific and Southern Carib- Communications
bean coasts, and all beach communi- The most reliable place from which to
ties offer a selection of teachers and send mail is San José’s Correo Central,
board rental companies; Jacó, Mal or main post office (see p.505), which is
País and Puerto Viejo are among the also the best place to collect post. Most
most popular beach locations. The towns here have a correo where stamps
teeming oceans (and rivers) also bring can be purchased and letters sent, but
in masses of sport-fishing and scuba- those along the coasts (particularly the
diving fanatics, although prices are Caribbean) can be extremely slow at
generally steep. Snorkelling is the shifting post. Opening hours for nearly
most economical way to get up close all Costa Rica’s post offices are Monday
to the marine life. The best areas for to Friday from 7.30am to 6pm. Those in
exploring brilliant corals are Cahuita San José and Liberia also have limited
and Manzanillo, where equipment Saturday hours (8am–noon).
rental is available from local tour Public phones require phonecards
offices and may even be provided by (tarjetas telefónica), which are avail-
your hotel or cabina. Kayaking is able from most grocery stores, street
growing in popularity as a good, green kiosks and pharmacies. The cards
way to explore the country’s many can be used at any public payphone,
lagoons, rivers and beaches. White- or (with permission) on hotel and
water rafting is a more exciting way residential phone lines. T 199 cards
to do the same. Organized tours are are for international calls, T 197 cards
readily available. for domestic/local calls; international
491
 Costa Rica On the net
W www.costarica-nationalparks.com A thorough guide to the country’s main
attractions: the parks and reserves.
W www.costaricaguide.info Excellent free maps (also available at ICT desks and
many hostel-type accommodations), with useful directories, bus schedules and
transport information, and plenty of budget listings.
Costa Rica

W www.ticotimes.net Central America’s leading English-language newspaper has

loads of up-to-date information and resources for travellers.
W www.visitcostarica.com The official tourist site for Costa Rica, with bus
schedules, hotels, maps and useful contact numbers.
Basics

cards come in two denominations: unattended, especially on the beach. If

3000c (17min talk time to the US, you have anything stolen you will need
12min to Europe) and 10,000c. Many to report it immediately at the nearest
payphones also accept credit cards. police station (estación de policía, or
Dial T 09 or 116 to get an English- guardia rural in rural areas), where
speaking operator and make a collect you can file a report. Tourist-related
call overseas; dial T 110 for internal crime, such as overcharging, can be
collect calls. There are no area codes addressed to the ICT in San José (see
and all phone numbers have eight p.500).
digits. As of March 2008, T 2 precedes Car-related crime, particularly that
all landline numbers, while mobile which involves rental vehicles, is on the
phone numbers are prefixed with an rise, so park vehicles securely (never on
T 8. Visitors cannot purchase local, the street), especially at night. A common
pre-paid SIM cards for mobile phones scam is to pre-puncture rental-car tires,
(you must be a resident to do so); follow the car and pull over to “offer
however, some of the more upmarket assistance”; beware of good Samaritans
hotels and car-rental agencies may be on the roadside. Drivers with a puncture
able to arrange mobile phone rentals. are recommended to keep driving to the
While tri-band European cell phones nearest service station or public area to
are more likely to get a signal than change tires.
those from the US, roaming charges
will be very high in both cases. Medical care and
Internet rates are low in major towns emergencies
– usually US$1–1.50 per hour – and rise
up to US$3 per hour in smaller towns The medical care in the Valle Central
and more remote areas; you’ll find an (where T 911 is fully functional) is much
internet café in almost every town in better than in neighbouring countries,
Costa Rica. Many hostels and hotels,
particularly in the capital, will provide Emergency numbers
free internet.
All emergencies T911
Police T117
Crime and safety
Fire T118
Costa Rica is a relatively safe country Red Cross T128
and the crime that does exist tends to Traffic police T2222-9330/9245
be opportunistic rather than violent. Private ambulance Emergencias
Pick-pocketing and luggage theft are 2000, Guanacaste and Puntarenas
the greatest threats facing most travel- T2380-4125
lers; it is never safe to leave possessions
492
but the coastal areas and more remote
corners of the country are lacking in Student and Youth
doctors and facilities. Pharmacies, discounts
found in almost every town and gener- Students with ISIC cards may
ally open from 8am to 4.30pm, might be entitled to small discounts
be able to suggest a local with medical at museums, cultural centers,
experience in case of emergency; other- restaurants and certain shops,
mainly in the Valle Central. See

Costa Rica
wise, head to a hospital in the nearest
large city. W www.isic.org for listings. Local
student ID, available to visitors
on language courses and other
Information and maps education programmes, may get you
The best source of information about better discounts at museums and
Costa Rica is the Instituto Costar- theatres.

Basics
ricense de Turismo, or ICT (w www
.visitcostarica.com). The main office
(T 2299-5800) is in San José, somewhat 2000, 5000 and 10,000 colones). Many
inconveniently located on the Juan establishments will not accept torn
Pablo II Bridge along the General Cañas notes; these can be exchanged at banks.
highway; a smaller San José branch US dollars (US$) are accepted at hotels
(T 2222-1090) sits in a bunker under- and tourist sights across the nation, but
neath the Plaza de la Cultura. The staff colones are generally necessary for local
can provide up-to-date maps, museum transport and food.
details and bus schedules. There are Banking hours tend to be Monday
small ICT booths at the main entry to Friday, 9am to 4pm. Banco Nacional
points to the country – Peñas Blancas de Costa Rica (W www.bncr.fi.cr) is
on the Nicaraguan border and San the country’s most popular bank, with
José’s Santamaría International Airport branches nation-wide. Debit cards
– and in Papagayo, Guanacaste. Aside are extremely useful, with most cities
from these, there are no other official and towns boasting at least one ATM
tourist offices, and you’ll have to rely on machine, or cajero automático (though
locally run initiatives, hotels and tourist there are none in Tortuguero). Credit
agencies for information. cards are generally handy for making
For maps, W www.maptak.com has deposits or even obtaining cash
handy, downloadable plans of the advances; Visa is more widely accepted
provinces and their capitals, as does than MasterCard. Traveller’s cheques
the Costa Rica Guide (see “Costa Rica should be bought in US dollars only –
on the Net” box opposite). Many places Costa Rican bank staff will stare blankly
will have an informative town map on at other currencies. Bring plenty of
cash when visiting smaller towns and
a billboard; these are usually centrally
beaches, as banking facilities can be
located.
scarce.
money and banks
The official currency of Costa Rica is Spanish
the colón (“c”; plural colones), collo- Language
quially referred to as “pesos”. There are
“Pura vida” or “pure life”,
two types of coin in circulation: the pronounced “poo-ra vee-da”, is a
old silver ones (denominations of 5, 10 phrase you are bound to hear. It is
and 20) and newer gold ones (denomi- used to mean “cool”, “all right”, “all
nations of 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500). good” and so on.
There are also four bank notes (1000,
493
 opening hours and
Public holidays
public holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
Shops and businesses are usually open
March/April Holy Thursday, Good
weekdays from 9am to 6pm (malls Friday, Holy Saturday, Easter Monday
open about 10am–9pm), with shorter
May 1 Labour Day
hours on Saturdays. Most businesses
July 25 Guanacaste Day
are closed on Sundays, while many
Costa Rica

(Guanacaste Province only)

museums shut on Mondays. The main
August 15 Mother’s Day/Assumption
public holidays, when all banks, post Day
offices, museums and government September 15 Independence Day
offices close, are listed in the box December 25 Christmas Day
below.
Basics

Festivals April Fiesta honouring Juan Santamaría on April 11

marks the death of Costa Rica’s national hero.
Costa Rica celebrates many festivals, August The Nation’s Patron Saint, La Negrita, is
or feriados, throughout the calendar honoured with a pilgrimage to Cartago (Aug 2).
year. The dates below only touch on the October The whole country, but particularly Límon
highlights – Ticos love a party and find Province, where there are Carnival festivities,
many excuses for celebration. celebrates its day of discovery, Columbus Day
January Palmares Civic Fiesta is celebrated (Oct 12).
over two weeks with concerts, carnival rides and December The last week of the month is a
bullfights. non-stop street party in Zapotee, with music,
March Celebrations held throughout the country in bullfights, rides and games as part of the
honour of San José Day (March 19). celebrations.

494
San José
Central lies at the centre of the city, but
the Plaza de la Cultura is considered
San José’s social core. The area around
Sprawling smack in the middle of the it is subdivided into little neighbour-
fertile Valle Central, SAN JOSÉ has a hoods (barrios) that flow seamlessly
spectacular setting, ringed by soaring into one another. Barrios Amón and
mountains and volcanoes on all sides. Otoya, in the north, are the prettiest,

Costa Rica
That’s where the compliments end, while those to the east – La California,
however, and you’ll be hard pressed Escalante and Los Yoses – are home
to find anyone, even a native Josefino, to comfortable houses and the odd
who has much good to say about the embassy. Further east lies the studenty
city’s potholed streets and car-dealer- municipality of San Pedro, home to the
ship architecture – not to mention the University of Costa Rica (UCR).

San José
choking diesel fumes, kamikaze drivers
and chaotically unplanned expan- Museo de Oro
sion. In general, travellers talk about Precolombino
San José as they do about bank lines The Plaza de la Cultura cleverly
and immigration offices: a pain, but conceals one of San José’s treasures,
unavoidable. This said, if you’ve been the Museo de Oro Precolombino, or
travelling through the region, you’ll pre-Columbian Gold Museum (daily
find that compared to, say, Managua 9.30am–5pm; 3900c; T 2243-4216,
or Guatemala City, San José has some
W www.museosdelbancocentral.org).
vibrant and cosmopolitan offerings.
The bunker-like underground space is
Most people end up spending a few
a touch gloomy, but the gold on display
days here – the city is a major transpor-
is truly impressive and includes the
tation hub, and many journeys across
largest array of animal-shaped gold
the country involve backtracking
through the capital – and find they can ornaments and figurines in Central
enjoy it. America. The exhibition also has
dioramas, photos and a short video
which explain the animal-influences
What to see and do
and uses of gold in Costa Rica’s ancient
Few travellers come to San José for the indigenous cultures.
sights, and it is certainly not a place
that exudes immediate appeal. It does Teatro Nacional
have its diversions, however, including San José’s heavily columned, grey-
some nice museums and galleries. It’s brown Teatro Nacional (Mon–Sat
also a manageable city, with all the 9am–4pm, with complimentary tours
attractions close together. The Parque every hour; 2800c; T 2221-5341,

Safety in San José

San José is a relatively safe city, but there is still some degree of danger, mainly
in mugging, purse-snatching or jewellery-grabbing. Keep a tight grip on your
belongings, especially around the Coca-Cola bus terminal and the area east of the
station – roughly from C 20 to 0, between Av 0 and 9 – which encompasses the
zona roja, or red light area. Other dodgy areas, day and night, include Merced (C
4/12, Av 4/10) just southwest of the centre. If driving in the centre of the city, keep
windows rolled up so no one can reach in and snatch your bag.
Also, watch out when crossing the street, anywhere in the city: drivers can be
aggressive and accidents involving pedestrians are common.

495
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W www.teatronacional.go.cr) sits on Museo del Jade

the corner of C 5 and Av 2, behind Three blocks northeast of the Plaza de
the Plaza de la Cultura. The theatre’s la Cultura, at Av 7, C 9/11, on the north
marbled stairways, gilt cherubs and side of Parque España, rises the INS, or
red-velvet carpets would look more at Institute of Social Security, building.
home in Old Europe than in Central On its eleventh floor, this uninspiring
America, and remain in remark- edifice houses one of the city’s finest
ably good condition, despite the dual museums, the Museo del Jade
onslaught of the climate and a succes- (Mon–Fri 8.30am–3.30pm, Sat 9am–
sion of earthquakes. During the day you 1pm; 1100c; T 2287-6034, W portal
can wander around the post-Baroque .ins-cr.com/Social/MuseoJade), which
splendour, even if you’re not coming is home to the world’s largest collec-
to see a performance (see p.504 for tion of American jade. The displays are
details). In the gallery (Mon–Sat 9am– subtly backlit to show off the multi-
4pm; free), ever-changing exhibits are coloured and multitextured pieces
open to the public; check the website to full effect. You’ll see a lot of axe-
for details. The elegant attached café gods – anthropomorphic bird/human
(Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–4pm) forms shaped like an axe and worn as
serves pricey coffees and European- a pendant – as well as various ornate
style cakes. (and rather heavy-looking) necklaces
496
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and fertility symbols. Incidentally, by domestic artists as well as works

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the sweep of San José from the centre definitely worth a visit to see what’s
to the south and then west to the going on in the arts in the Americas.
mountains. There’s also a theatre in the complex
– a wander around during the day may
Museo de Arte y Diseño offer interesting glimpses of dancers
Contemporáneo and musicians rehearsing. Unfortu-
Sprawling across the entire eastern nately, performances are not open to
border of the Parque España, the the public.
former National Liquor Factory,
dating from 1887, today houses Museo Nacional
the Centro Nacional de Cultura, Heading two blocks south from the
home to the cutting-edge Museo Centro Nacional de Cultura along
de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo C 11 brings you to the concrete Plaza
(Mon–Sat 10.30am–5.30pm; 1100c de la Democracia, a rather soulless
(free Mon); T 2257-7202, W www square. A mess of terraced concrete
.madc.ac.cr). The cosmopolitan, slopes up towards the fortress-
multimedia displays features pieces like edifice of the Museo Nacional
497
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(Tues–Sat 8.30am–4.30pm, Sun 9am– Costa Rican art, as well as the Jardín
4.30pm; 2200c; T 2257-1433, W www de Esculturas (sculpture garden) and
.museocostarica.go.cr), home to the Salón Dorado (golden room) which
country’s most important archeological contains a huge mural, painted by
exhibits. Highlights include petroglyphs, French artist Louis Ferón in 1940.
pre-Columbian stonework, wonderful On the southwest corner of Parque la
anthropomorphic gold figures (in the Sabana, forming part of the University

Costa Rica
Sala Arqueológica) and an open court- La Salle, is the quirky natural science
yard offering great views of the city. museum, the Museo de Ciencias
Naturales (Mon–Sat 7.30am–4pm, Sun
Mercado Central 9am–5pm; 825c; T 2232-1306). Walk
Northwest of the Parque Central and right in, and after about 400m you’ll
the commercial centre in the block see the painted wall announcing the

San José
between Av 0/1 and C 6/8 is San José’s museum; the entrance is at the back.
Mercado Central (Mon–Sat 6am– Displays range from pickled fish and
6pm), or central market. Entering its snakes to some rather forlorn taxidermy
labyrinthine interior you’re confronted exhibits – age and humidity have taken
by colourful arrangements of fruits their toll.
and vegetables, dangling sides of beef
and elaborate, silvery ranks of fish.
San Pedro
Shopping for fruits, vegetables and
First impressions of the student
coffee here is less expensive than in
district of San Pedro, which begins
a supermarket, and the glut of sodas
when you pass the traffic circle at the
inside means it’s the best place in town
San Pedro mall (you’ll know it for its
to get a cheap bite – not only that, but
Flintstones-style jutting boulders), can
the view from a counter stool is fasci-
nating, as traders and their customers be off-putting: the Avenida Central
jostle for chayotes, mamones, piñas and (also known here as Paseo de los
cas. Watch your belongings, or better Estudiantes) is lined with gas stations
yet bring nothing, as the bustling and dull malls as it passes through
crowds and diverting sounds and the area. Walk just a block away from
sights make this a great spot for you the paseo, however, and you’ll find
to be pick-pocketed or have your bag a lively combination of university-
stolen. student ghettos and elegant residential
houses. The area also claims some of
Parque la Sabana the city’s best bars, restaurants and
Stretching west from the market is nightlife, especially along the Calle de
the Paseo Colón, a wide boulevard of la Amargura.
shops, restaurants and car dealerships. You’ll most likely arrive here in a taxi
At the very end of the paseo, the solid or on one of the buses from downtown
expanse of green known as Parque la San José. Buses stop opposite the
Sabana was San José’s airport until small Parque Central, centred on
the 1940s, and is now home to the a monument to John F. Kennedy.
country’s key art museum. Housed in Walking north from the square,
a converted air terminal, the attrac- through three blocks of sodas, bars,
tive Museo de Arte Costarricense, restaurants and abandoned railway
Av 0, C 42 (Tues–Fri 9am–5pm, tracks, you come to the cool, leafy
Sat–Sun 10am–4pm; 2800c, free Sun; campus of the University of Costa
T 2222-7155, W www.musarco.go.cr) Rica (UCR), one of the finest universi-
has a good collection of contemporary ties in Central America.
499
 Tourist information San José’s central ICT office
Arrival and information (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; T2229-1090, Wwww
.visitcostarica.com), underneath the Plaza de la
By air Costa Rica’s main airport, Juan Santamaría
Cultura and next to the gold museum at C 5, Av
International (T 2443-0840), is 17km northwest
0/2, has free maps, tour brochures and booklets
of San José and 3km southeast of Alajuela. Taxis
detailing the (ever-changing) national bus schedule.
line up just beyond the airport exit and should
They also hand out San Jose Volando (Wwww
cost around 8300c to the city centre. Buses to
.sanjosevolando.com), a free monthly culture guide.
downtown San José depart from the airport bus
Costa Rica

For information on all the nation’s parks, head to

stop just outside the terminal.
the central office for the FPN, or Fundación de
By bus Most international buses from Nicaragua,
Parques Nacionales, at Av 15, C 23/33 (T 2257-
Honduras, Guatemala and Panama pull into the Tica
2239, Wwww.fpncostarica.org).
Bus station, Av 4, C 9/11 (T 2221-8954), next to
the yellow Soledad church. The city has no central
domestic bus terminal; the nearest thing to it is City transport
San José

La Coca-Cola (named after an old bottling plant

that used to stand on the site), five blocks west of Buses The bus network, connecting central San
the Mercado Central at Av 1/3, C 16/18 (the main José with virtually all of the city’s suburbs, generally
entrance is on C 16); most buses from the Pacific runs daily 5am–10pm. Bus stops in the city centre
coast arrive here. There are also a multitude of seem to change every year; currently, most buses
independent bus company stops in the blocks to San Pedro, Tres Ríos and other points east leave
around La Coca-Cola. The Terminal del Caribe, from Av Central, C 9/15, and buses for Paseo
Av 13, C Central, deals with transport to and from Colón and Parque la Sabana (labelled “Sabana-
Límon. Arrivals from Monteverde and La Fortuna Cementerio”) from the bus shelters on Av 2, C 5/7.
will pull into the Terminal Atlántico Norte at C 12, All buses have their routes clearly marked on their
Av 7/9, and buses travelling between Golfito, windshields, and usually the fare, too. Fares are
Nosara, Tamarindo and San José use the Alfaro- payable either to the driver or conductor when you
Tracopa Terminal at C 14, Av 3/5. The quickest (and, board and are usually about 150c, though the faster,
in the case of those leaving from Coca-Cola area, more comfortable busetas de lujo (luxury buses) to
safest) way to get to and from the bus stations is by the suburbs cost upwards of 300c. Bus drivers or
taxi, which should cost around 2800c. conductors always have lots of change.

Tour operators in San José

As Costa Rica’s main city, San José is home to scores of tour and activity operators.
Those listed here are experienced and reliable, and are all licensed (and regulated) by
the ICT. Be wary of fly-by-night operations, of which there are plenty. You often see, for
instance, posters advertising “packages” to Tortuguero or Monteverde for US$80–100
– less than half the price of a regular package. These are not really packages at all,
and never worth the price: you may find yourself responsible for your own transport or
accommodation, and no tours, orientation or guidance will be given.
Costa Rica Expeditions C 0, Av 3 T 2257-0766, W www.costaricaexpeditions
.com. This US-based firm is the most established and experienced of the major tour
operators. They offer white-water rafting day-trips from US$75 per person.
Ecole Travel C 7, Av 0/1 T 2256-0295, W www.ecoletravel.com. Small agency
popular with backpackers offering two-night tours to Tortuguero (US$249) and
3-day tours to Corcovado as well as day-trips for US$50–100.
Expediciones Tropicales C 3b, Av 11/13 T 2257-4171, Wwww.costaricainfo.com.
Another backpackers’ favourite with knowledgeable guides, running the popular
“Four-in-One” day-tour of Volcán Poás and nearby sights (US$87; 11hr), as well as
a host of other trips from San José.
Specops T +1/941/346-2603, W www.specops.com. Adventure education
group, comprising US Special Forces veterans and expert Costa Rican guides,
specializing in white-knuckle thrills, jungle-survival courses and adventure film
and photography.

500
Cars You won’t want – or need – a car in the city, A cheap and cheerful hostel near Parque La Sabana
but one can be useful for heading out on day-trips – rooms are a bit cramped but the house has a
within the Central Valley, where public transport can cosy atmosphere and friendly staff. Dorms 3 ,
be inconveniently scheduled. See p.504 for agency doubles 4 –5
listings. Hostel Pangea Av 7, C 3/3b T2221-1992,
Taxis Cheap and plentiful, even at odd hours of W www.hostelpangea.com. San José’s party
the night and early morning. Licensed vehicles are hostel boasts a pool, rooftop restaurant, bar and
red with a yellow triangle on the side, and have dancefloor. There is no communal “living room”

Costa Rica
“SJP” (“San José Publico”) license plates. A ride or kitchen, however, and all rooms, both dorms
anywhere within the city will cost 1100–2200c, and and private, share bathroom facilities. Dorms 3 ,
about double that out to the suburbs. The starter doubles 5
fare (450c) is shown on the red digital display; Hostel Toruma Av Central, C 29/31 T 2234-
make sure the meter is on before you start (ask 8186 or 2224-4805, W www.hosteltoruma
the driver to toca la maría, por favor) or agree on .com. Set back from Av Central, this hostel aims

San José
the fare in advance. Taxis usually line up along the to be upscale, with a Neoclassical exterior, high
Parque Central, but licensed vehicles are also safe ceilings and polished wood floors. There’s a pool
to hail on the street. and internet access, but no kitchen. Dorms 3 ,
doubles 5 –7
Accommodation Tranquilo Backpackers C 7, Av 9/11
T2223-3189, Wwww.tranquilobackpackers
The budget-to-moderate accommodation choices .com. The most laid-back hostel in town, Tranquilo
in San José are fairly good value, with plenty of attracts a mix of travellers with its funky painted
hostels, guesthouses and family-run hotels. The walls, lazy hammocks, ambient music and DIY
very cheapest rooms are in the insalubrious area breakfast pancakes. Downstairs rooms can get
around La Coca-Cola; while there are a couple noisy (reception provides earplugs) – upstairs
of decent budget places here, the area is best private rooms are larger and quieter. Dorms 3 ,
avoided. Be prepared to reserve in advance in high doubles 5
season (Dec–May) and at holidays.
Hotels, inns and B&Bs
Hostels Angels Hotel C 25, Av 0/2 T2258-8273, Wwww
Abril Hostal Av 10, Contra 204 (which becomes .angelshotel.com. Family-run casa de huéspedes
C 25) T2234-1310, [email protected]. of seven large and immaculate rooms, with shared
Budget option with bright, spacious rooms (dorms and private baths. There’s laundry service, assist-
only), a large garden and a small roof terrace. ance with travel and tours, a garden and a great
Day-trips can be arranged at a discount. 10.30pm little soda on site. 6
curfew. Dorms 3 Hotel Casa León Av 6 bis, C 13/15 T2221-1651,
Bekuo Hostel Av 8, C 41/43 T2234-1091, Wwww.hotelcasaleon.com/English.htm. Along the
Wwww.hostelbekuo.com. Spotless rooms, most city’s abandoned railroad tracks, this small, quiet
with private baths, located in Los Yoses, a 10min guesthouse has basic private rooms with shared
walk from downtown and bordering San Pedro. 5 or private baths and also arranges tours and car
Casa Ridgway C 15, Av 6 bis (Av 6/8) T2233- rental. It can be hard to find: tell your taxi driver it’s
6168 or 2222-1400, Wwww.amigosparalapaz a calle sin salida (dead-end road). 5
.org. Clean and secure Quaker-run guesthouse with Kap’s Place C 19, Av 11/13 T2221-1169,
cheap, single-sex dorms plus a few private singles Wwww.kapsplace.com. Run by Karla Arias (a
and doubles. Free breakfast. Alcohol is banned and bottomless source of information), the hotel has 22
it’s “quiet time” from 10pm. Dorms 2 , singles 3 , rooms of varying size and price, a fully equipped
doubles 4 communal kitchen and a large apartment. Quiet
Costa Rica Backpackers Av 6, C 21/23 T2221- time 8pm–8am, and smoking permitted only out
6191 or 2223-2406, Wwww.costaricabackpackers front. Tours arranged on request. Singles 4 –6 ,
.com. Popular budget guesthouse where facilities doubles 5 , triple 7
include a restaurant, garden with outdoor kitchen Posada Amon Inn C 5, Av 9 T2222-6700/1350,
and swimming pool and tour services. Their Wwww.costaricarrangements.com. Sweet little
separate guesthouse across the road has more converted guesthouse with large, simply furnished
expensive private doubles. Dorms 3 , doubles 5 rooms accommodating between one and six people,
Gaudy’s Backpackers Av 5, C 36/38 T2258- as well as a laundry service, free internet and
2937 or 2248-0086, Wwww.backpacker.co.cr. breakfast. Singles 4 , doubles 5 –6
501
 the half-size portions (from 2000c) are a bargain
Eating and leftovers can be wrapped up for takeaway.
There’s a variety of balcony and courtyard seating,
For a Central American city of its size, San José has
and a busy bar (attracting a largely gay clientele).
a surprising variety of restaurants, but the 23 percent
Mains 4000–8000c.
tax on restaurant food can easily wreck a budget;
La Flor Av 1, C 5/7 T 2257-1561. Somewhat
it’s cheapest to eat in the centre, at the sodas and
lacking in atmosphere but popular with working
snack bars, where the tax doesn’t apply. A sit-down
Josefinos, this downtown eatery offers good-
breakfast or lunch at a soda will rarely set you back
Costa Rica

value lunch meals (casado, juice and dessert

more than 2800c. Cafés and bakeries also abound:
1900c).
some have old-world European aspirations; others
Okami Sushi Av 0, C 23/25 T 2221-0725. A
are resolutely Costa Rican, with Josefinos piling in to
slightly pricier alternative to the surrounding sodas
order birthday cakes or grab a coffee.
and restaurants, Okami has a decent Japanese
Cafés and bakeries menu; the katsu and teriyaki plates come with rice,
San José

Café 1930 In the Gran Hotel Costa Rica, Av 2, vegetables and miso soup for 4000–6000c. Rolls
C 3/5. The closest thing in San José to a European 1500–3500c.
street café. The food’s not cheap (coffee 750c), but Taco Voy Av 2, C 13 T 2257-8280. Cheap
this is a good place to sit and watch the buskers and easy Mexican snacks, including quesa-
and street performers in the Plaza de la Cultura. dillas, tacos, burritos and huaraches. Portions
Open 24hr. 1200–3000c.
Café de la Posada C 17, Av 2/4 T 2258-1027. Ticolo Branches at the Mall San Pedro & Mercado
This café (attached to the pretty Posada de Museo Central. Tican fast food – mostly sandwiches,
Hotel; 6 –9 ) offers cakes and coffees (700c), burgers and casados – with large platters and meal
all-day Continental breakfasts (2150c) and lunch deals. The market (Av 0, C 6) is great for people-
options that include tasty quiches (2000c) and watching. Casado or sandwich plus side dish and
empanadas. drink 1200–2500c.
Trigo Miel C 3, Av 0/1 T2221-8995. The best- Tin-Jo C 11, Av 6/8 T2221-7605. Popular and
stocked branch of a national bakery chain. There’s fairly formal pan-Asian restaurant, with decent
a mouth-watering selection of cakes, breads and vegetarian options. The soups and coconut curries
pastries – try a delicious cangrejo (croissant) are particularly good. On a budget, skip the alcohol
with dulce de leche. Eat in (they also offer a daily and share a (good-sized) portion. Soups 1500–
lunch plate), take away or order delivery. Pastries 3500c, curries 4000–6000c.
150–500c, plato del día 2500c.
Drinking and nightlife
Sodas
Amon C 7, Av 7/9. A tiny neighbourhood soda with San José’s nightlife is gratifyingly varied, with
cheap breakfasts of gallo pinto; the few tables are scores of bars. Stay away from the centre of town
always packed so you may have to wait for a seat. (see box, p.503), and head instead to Los Yoses,
Breakfast from 1100c, casado 1700c. where Av Central features a trail of sports and soft-
Tapia C 24, Av 2 T2222-6734. Retro-style diner rock bars, or San Pedro, which is geared towards
with a huge menu – everything from fruit salads the university population. Bars often change
(850–2000c) to burgers and sandwiches (1000– character on weekends, when they host live music
4000c). Open 24hr. acts. If you want to dance, check out one of the
La Vasconia Av 1, C 3/5 T2223-4857. Features city’s many discos, but do not confuse these with
an enormous menu of cheap breakfasts and lunch the erotically associated “nightclubs” (see box
specials, including casados (1400c) and ceviche. opposite). Cover charges run about 2800c and
Photos of the national football team (some dating often include a free drink; many establishments
back to 1905) adorn the walls. allow women to enter for free if business is slow.
Vishnu Av 1, C 1/3 T2256-6063. Cheery The Centro Commercial El Pueblo, just north of
vegetarian soda serving healthy platos del día with the cty centre, is home to a maze of discos, bars
brown rice and soup for around 1500c, and tasty and snack joints, and provides an expensive but
sandwiches from 1200c. easy night out; expect to spend upwards of 5500c
on drinks. Taxis back to the centre from El Pueblo
Restaurants charge a base rate of US$4. With the exception of
Café Mundo Av 9, C 15 T2222-6190. This Italian- the university bars in San Pedro, most places close
influenced restaurant may seem like a splurge, but by 2 or 3am, earlier on Sun.
502
 weekends. Cover 1000–3000c; ladies free before
Prostitution and Sex 10pm.
Tourism in san José Castro’s C 22, Av 13. This popular spot attracts
local crowds of all ages; you can have a bite and
Prostitution is legal in Costa Rica watch the crowds, or hit the dancefloor to tropical
and, in San José, very mainstream. rhythms (salsa, cumbia and merengue) and
Sex tourism is somewhat of a reggaeton.
problem here, and you’ll find that Déjà Vu C 2, Av 14/16. One of the hottest gay
many of the “bars” downtown

Costa Rica
clubs (drag night on Sat) in town, housing two
– especially in the zona roja (or red large dancefloors of banging electronic music,
light district) between La Coca-Cola as well as the more intimate Sinners bar. The
and the Calle Central – are, in reality, neighbourhood is pretty scary, so take a taxi. Cover
little more than pick-up joints for 1600–2200c.
professional transactions. The term Ebony 56 El Pueblo. A young crowd fills the
“nightclub” generally implies some

San José
large dancefloors playing salsa, pop and
form of erotic entertainment, while reggaeton; ladies’ night on Thurs is buzzing. Cover
a discoteca will be somewhere to 1000–3000c.
dance (with your clothes on) – be Infinito El Pueblo. One of the busiest clubs in town,
aware of this distinction. with three large dancefloors playing mix of interna-
tional music.
Terra U C de la Amargura, San Pedro W www
Bars
.terrau.com. Hugely popular student disco, with
Bar Río On Blvd Los Yoses, the continuation of
three open-air levels and a heaving dancefloor
Av Central. A busy sports bar with a big terrace
where Latin and tropical rhythms predominate.
at the front and a large dance area (occasionally
Vertigo Edificio Colón Paseo Colón, Av 38/40
staging live music) at the back. Beer 1000c.
Wwww.vertigocr.com. A swanky Euro-style club
Caccio’s C de la Amargura, San Pedro. Insanely
with electronic music – from local and international
popular student hangout with cheap pizza and cold
DJs – on the main floor, and a hip-hop/chill-out
beer (600c).
lounge upstairs. Cover 1000–12,000c, depending
Chelles Av 0, C 9. A simple, brightly lit bar with
on the lineup.
football on the television, cheap beers (770c) and
24hr service.
El Cuartel Av 1, C 21/23. A San José institution, Entertainment
popular with a young crowd. The restaurant is open
for lunch and dinner (plates from 2500c). Mon and Josefinos love the theatre, and there’s a healthy
Wed nights there’s live music; cover 3000c. Beer range of affordable venues, although you often
1000c. need a strong grasp of Spanish to follow the rapid,
Jazz Café Av Central, San Pedro T 2253-8933, colloquial dialogue. All performances are listed in
W www.jazzcafecostarica.com. The best place in the Cartelera section of the Tiempo Libre supple-
San José to hear live jazz and Latin rhythms, with ment in La Nación on Thurs, and the Tico Times.
an intimate atmosphere and consistently good Going to the cinema in San José is a bargain, with
acts. The bocas are tasty but not cheap, so stick tickets costing around 1600–2800c. Cinemas
to beer (1000–1500c). Doors open at 9pm, music generally show subtitled versions of the latest
10pm–2am. Cover 2000–4500c (depending on American movies; the few that are dubbed will have
the act). the phrase “hablado en Español” in the newspaper
El Observatorio C 23, Av 0/1. A funky, warehouse- listings or on the posters. Most of the large, multi-
style bar that often showcases independent films screen cinemas are in suburban malls, including
and music. Beer 1000c, cocktails 2500c. the Multiplaza Escazú and Real Cariari, and require
El Sultan Av 0, C 29. Middle Eastern-themed pub, a taxi ride.
with good falafel and pita (2200c) and cheap beer
(600c) pulling in a young crowd. Tues and Thurs Theatre
are busiest. Mélico Salazar Av 2, C 0 T2221-4925, Wwww
.teatromelicosalazar.go.cr. Draws great musical
Discos talents from Costa Rica and further abroad. Tickets
Bongos El Pueblo. A small club offering numerous US$2–20.
drink promotions. The packed dancefloor is Teatro Laurence Olivier Av 2, C 28 T 2223-
dominated by Latin beats and live music most 1960. A small venue favouring experimental
503
 performances, with a gallery and popular Shake- Mora Books Av 1, C 3/5, in the Omni building
speare bar downstairs. Shows cost around 3000c T2383-8385. A good selection of secondhand
per ticket. English-language books, CDs, guide books,
Teatro Nacional Av 2, C 3/5 T2221-1329, magazines and comics. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm.
W www.teatronacional.go.cr. The most important
theatre in the country, with productions ranging Food and drink
from Shakespeare to Chinese acrobatics. Ticket Supermarkets The cheapest is Mas x Menos (Av
prices start at about 2800c, depending on the act. 0, C 9/11; daily 8am–9pm), which stocks mainly
Costa Rica

Costa Rican brands of just about everything. There

Cinema are several branches in San José and one in San
CCM Mall San Pedro (see below) T 2283-5716. Pedro on Av 0, 300m north of the church. Branches
A huge complex of screens playing international of the Automercado, Perimercado and the Am-Pm
films. The a/c can get pretty chilly, so bring a supermarkets are springing up all over the place.
sweater.
Malls
San José

Cine Magaly C 23, Av 0/1 T2223-0085. Across

the road from some of the city’s hottest bars, this Mall San Pedro Av 0, C 47, at the Fuente de La
cinema plays new releases, mostly in English. Hispanidad. A large complex with a multitude of
Sala Garbo Av 2, C 28 T2222-1034. A small clothing stores, a multi-screen cinema complex,
venue with two screens showing foreign-language nightclub and food court with a breezy, outdoor
art-house movies. balcony.
Multiplaza Escazú On the highway outside the
city. Another enormous complex with international
Shopping
chains, bars and restaurants, and a huge cinema.
Avenida Central (C 3/6) is good for fairly cheap
shoes and clothing, although you’ll also find more Markets
expensive shops, including a Levi’s store and La Casona C 0, Av 0/1. Two-floor marketplace
upmarket surf/skate chain Arenas. San José’s with stalls selling ethnic Latin American products
souvenir and crafts shops are well stocked such as Guatemalan knapsacks and bedspreads
and in general pretty pricey; it’s best to buy from and Panamanian molas. Quality at some stalls
shops run by regulated crafts co-operatives is pretty poor. Mon–Sat 9.30am–6.30pm, Sun
– more of the money filters back to the artisans. 9.30am–5.30pm.
There are several markets that are good for Mercado Nacional de Artesanía y Pintura
browsing. Malls are very popular, springing up C 22, Av 2 bis. Touristy street market in the Plaza
all over the capital’s suburbs and housing de la Democracia featuring all the usual items:
European stores like Mango and Zara, as well as hats, T-shirts, Sarchí ox-carts, jewellery, woodwork,
US chain stores, restaurants and entertainment hammocks and fabrics. Daily 8am–6pm.
venues. Plaza Esmerelda Pavas, in the city suburbs. A
huge craft co-operative where you can watch
Books cigars being rolled, necklaces set and Sarchí
7th Street Books C 7, Av 0/1 T2256-8251. Both ox-carts painted. Closed Sun.
new and used books; it’s good on English literature
and also has a wide selection of books and maps Directory
on Costa Rica in English and Spanish. Mon–Sat
9am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm. Car rental Alamo, Paseo Colón T2242-7733,
Chispas C 7, Av 0/1 T2223-2240 or 2256-8251. Wwww.alamocostarica.com; Avanti, at the
Sells new and secondhand books, and has the best airport and Paseo Colón, C 30/32 T 2430-4647,
selection of English-language fiction in town. It also Wwww.avantirentacar.com; Payless, C 10,
carries a good array of guides and books about Av 13/15 T2257-0026, Wwww.paylesscr.com;
Costa Rica (in English and Spanish), plus several Tricolor, at the airport T2440-3333, Wwww
English-language magazines and newspapers. .tricolorcarrental.com.
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm. Embassies and consulates Canada, Calle del
Libreria Internacional Branches at Av 0, C 0/1 Golf and Autopista 7 T2242-4400; UK, 11th
(T 2257-6563; Mon–Sat 9am–7pm) and in the floor, Edificio Centro Colón, Paseo Colón, C 38/40
Multiplaza Escazú (T 2201-8320; daily 10am– T2258-2025; US, opposite the Centro Comercial
10pm). The biggest selection of stock in town, in Pavas, or Av 0, C 120 (T2519-2000) – take the
with books in Spanish, English and German. bus to Pavas from Av 1, C 18.
504
Exchange State-owned banks include the others leave from independent stops in the
Banco de Costa Rica, Av 0/2, C 4/6 (Mon–Fri streets around, or from the Terminal Caribe
8am–4pm; Visa only) and Banco Nacional, Av (C 0, Av 13).
1/3, C 4 (Mon–Fri 8.30am–3.30pm; Visa only).
Private banks include ScotiaBank, C 5, Av 0/2 Bus companies and stops
(Mon–Fri 8.30am–6.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm; Visa & ATC Departs for La Fortuna/Arénal from C 12, Av
MasterCard). There’s an American Express office 7/9. Information on T2255-0567/4318/4300.
in the Oficentro (Edificio 1), Sabana Sur (Mon–Fri Deldú Departs for Peñas Blancas from C 14,

Costa Rica
8.30am–5pm; T 2242-8585). All currency Av 3/5. Information on T 2256-9072 or
exchange in San José is done at banks. 2677-0091.
Immigration Migración (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; Empresa Alfaro Departs for Nicoya, Nosara, Playa
T 2299-8100) is in Uruca, on the airport highway Sámara & Tamarindo from Av 5, C 14/16. Informa-
opposite the Hospital México; take an Alajuela bus tion on t2222-2666.
and get off at the stop underneath the overhead Empresarios Unidos Departs for Puntarenas from

San José
walkway. Get there early if you want visa extensions C 16, Av 12. Information on t 2222-8231, 2222-
or exit visas. Larger travel agencies listed on p.500 9840 or 2661-3138.
can take care of the paperwork for you for a fee Hermanos Rodriguez Departs for Mal País from
(roughly US$10–25). La Coca-Cola. Information on T2642-0219.
Internet Free at most hotels and guesthouses, King Quality Departs for El Salvador and
but there are also plenty of cafés; expect to pay Nicaragua from C 12, Av 3/5. Information on
around 300c/30min. Try Café Digital, Av 0, C 5/7, T 2258-8834.
which also has a soda; Internet Club, C 7, Av 0/2; or Lumaca Departs for Cartago from C 5, Av 10.
CyberCafe Las Arcadas, Av 2, C 1/3, with a laundry Information on T 2537-2320.
on site. Mepe Departs for Cahuita, Manzanillo, Puerto Viejo
Laundry Offered by many hotels and guesthouses. de Talamanca and Sixaola from Terminal Caribe.
Otherwise, try Lava Sol C 5, Av 9/11 or Sixaola (one Information on T2257-8129 or 2758-1572.
of a chain), Av 2, C 7/9. Metropoli Departs for Volcán Irázu from Av 2,
Medical care The public hospital is San Juan de C 1/3. Information on T2536-6052.
Dios, Paseo Colón, C 14–16 (T 2257-6282). The Microbuses Rapiditos Heredianos (MRA)
private hospital is Clínica Biblica, Av 14/16, Departs for Heredia from C 1, Av 7/9. Information on
C 0/1 (T 2522-1000, emergencies T 2522- t2233-8392.
1030); basic consultation and treatment starts at Nica Expreso Departs for Managua from C 16,
about US$100. Av 3/5. Information on T2256-3191.
Pharmacies Clínica Biblica, Av 14, C 0/1 (T 2522- Panaline Departs for Panama City from C 16,
1000), is open 24hr. Farmacia Fischel has branches Av 3/5. Information on T2256-8721, Wwww
at Av 3, C 2 (Mon–Sat 7am–7pm, Sun 9am–5pm) .panalinecr.com.
and Av 2, C 5/7 (Mon–Fri 7am–8pm, Sat 8am–7pm, Pulmitan de Liberia Departs for Liberia and Playa
Sun 8am–6pm). del Coco from C 24, Av 5/7. Information on t2222-
Post office The Correo Central (Wwww.correos 1650 or 2666-3818.
.go.cr; Mon–Fri 7am–5pm, Sat 7am–noon) is at Station Wagon Departs for Alajuela from Av 4,
C 2, Av 1/3. C 12/14. Information on T2441-1181.
Tica Bus Departs for Guatemala, Nicaragua,
Moving on Panama, El Salvador and Honduras from C 26,
Av 3. Information on T 2221-0006, W www
.ticabus.com.
By air Tilarán Departs for Santa Elena/Monteverde from
The nation’s domestic airlines, Sansa and Nature
C 12, Av 7/9. Information on T 2222-3854.
Air, have several daily flights to Liberia, Jacó and
Tracopa (domestic) Departs for Paso Canoas
Tambor from Juan Santamaría airport.
and Golfito from Av 5, C 18/20. Information on
T2771-4214.
By bus Tracopa (international) Departs for Panama from
San José is the transport hub of Costa Rica, and Av 5, C 14/16. Information on T2222-2666 or
eventually, all roads lead to it. A bewildering 2223-7685.
number of bus companies use the city as their Transnica Departs for Nicaragua from C 22,
base; although many services depart from the Av 3/5. Information on T2223-4242, Wwww
Coca-Cola terminal (C 16, Av 1/3), many .transnica.com.
505
 Transportes Blancos Departs for Puerto Jiménez Nosara With Empresa Alfaro. Departures daily
from C 14, Av 9/11. Information on t 2257-4121 5.30am; 6hr.
or 2735-5189. Paso Canoas With Tracopa. Departures daily 5am,
Transportes Caribeños Departs for Puerto Limón 7.30am, 6.30pm, also Sun 11am; 6hr.
from Terminal Caribe. Information on T 2221-2596 Peñas Blancas With Deldú. Departures hourly
or 2222-0610. 3am–7pm; 6hr.
Transportes Morales Departs for Dominical, Jacó Playa del Coco With Pulmitan. Departures daily
and Quepos/Manuel Antonio from La Coca-Cola. 8am, 2pm, 4pm; 5hr.
Costa Rica

Information on T2223-1109 or 2643-3135. Playa Sámara With Empresa Alfaro. Departures

Tuasa Departs for Alajuela and Volcán Poás from daily noon & 6.30pm; 5hr.
Av 2, C 12/14. Information on T 2222-5325 or Puerto Jiménez With Transportes Blancos.
2442-6900. Departures daily noon; 8hr.
Puerto Limón With Transportes Caribeños.
Domestic bus Departures hourly 5am–7pm; 2hr 30min.
destinations
San José

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui (From Terminal del

Alajuela With Station Wagon or Tuasa. Departures Caribe; t2222-0610): departures daily 6.30am,
every 10min 4.30am–11pm, then every 30min; 7.30am, 10am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm,
35min. 3.30pm, 4.30pm, 5.30pm, 6.30pm; 2hr.
Cahuita With Mepe. Departures daily 6am, 10am, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca With Mepe.
2pm, 4pm; 4hr. Departures daily 6am, 10am, 2pm, 4pm; 4hr 30min.
Cariari (From the Terminal del Caribe, for Tortu- Puntarenas With Empresarios Unidos. Departures
guero): departures daily 6.30am, 9am, 10.30am, hourly 6am–7pm; 2hr 20min.
1pm, 3pm, 4.30pm, 6pm, 7pm, 10.30pm; 1hr 30min. Quepos/Manuel Antonio With Transportes
Cartago With Lumaca. Departures every 10min Morales. Express departures daily 6am, noon,
5.05am–midnight; 45min. 6pm, 7.30pm, also Mon–Sat 9am, 2.30pm; local
Dominical With Transportes Morales. Departures departures daily 7am, 10am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, also
daily 6am, 3pm; 7hr. Mon–Fri 5pm; 3hr 45min–4hr 30min.
Golfito With Tracopa. Departures daily 7am, Sun Sarchí (From C 18, Av 5/7; t2258-2004): depar-
also 3.30pm; 8hr. tures Mon–Fri 12.15pm, Sat noon; 1hr 30min.
Heredia With MRA. Departures every 10min Sixaola With Mepe. Departures daily 6am, 10am,
5am–3am; 30min. 2pm, 4pm; 6hr.
Jacó With Transportes Morales. Departures daily Tamarindo With Empresa Alfaro. Departures daily
6am, 7am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm, 7pm; 8.30am & 3.30pm (via Liberia); 5hr 30min.
2hr 30min. Volcán Irazú With Metropoli. Departures daily 8am
La Fortuna/Arénal With ATC. Departures daily (returning 12.30pm); 2hr.
6.15am, 8.40am, 11.30am; 4hr 30min. Volcán Poás With Tuasa. Departures daily 8.30am;
Liberia With Pulmitan. Departures daily 6am, 7am 1hr 30min.
noon, 3pm, 5pm, 6pm, 7pm (Fri only), 8pm;
4hr 30min. International bus
Mal País With Hnos Rodriguez. Departures daily destinations
7am, 3.30pm; 5hr 15min. El Salvador With King Quality (departures daily);
Manzanillo With Mepe. Departures daily noon; Tica Bus (departures daily).
4hr 30min. Guatemala With Tica Bus (departures daily).
Monteverde/Santa Elena With Tilarán. Departures Honduras With Tica Bus (departures daily).
daily 6.30am, 2.30pm; 5hr. Nicaragua With King Quality (departures daily);
Montezuma (From La Coca-Cola; T2642-0219): Nica Expreso (departures daily); Tica Bus (depar-
departures daily at 7.30am & 3pm; 5hr. tures daily); Transnica (departures daily).
Nicoya With Empresa Alfaro. Departures daily Panama With Panaline (departures daily); Tica Bus
5.30am, 7.30am, 10am, noon, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm, (departures daily); Tracopa (daily 7.30am).
6.30pm; 5hr.

506
 The Valle
and the Monumento Nacional
Guayabo, the country’s most important

Central and
archeological site.
Most people use San José as a base

the Highlands
for forays into the Valle Central: with
the exception of Alajuela the provincial
capitals have little to entice you to linger.
Despite its name – which translates

Costa Rica
If you do want to get out of the city and
literally as “Central Valley” – Costa stay in the Valle Central, the nicest
Rica’s Valle Central is actually an inter- places are the lodges and inns scattered
montane plateau poised at an elevation throughout the countryside.
of between 3000 and 4000m. The area
supports roughly two thirds of Costa Alajuela

The Valle Central and the Highlands

Rica’s population, as well as its four With a population of just 45,000,
most important cities – San José and ALAJUELA is Costa Rica’s second
the provincial capitals of Alajuela, largest city; it’s also only thirty minutes
Heredia and Cartago. Other than that, from downtown San José. There’s not
it’s a largely agricultural region, with much to specifically see here – most
green coffee terraces shadowed by the travellers use Alajuela as a jumping-
summits of the surrounding mountains, off point for departure and arrival into
many of which are volcanoes. These the rest of the country, as well as a base
volcanoes, especially Irazú and Poás for visiting the surrounding sights. The
and the surrounding national parks, are city’s few attractions, such as they are,
the chief attractions for visitors, but are all less than a minute’s walk from the
there’s also good whitewater rafting, Parque Central.
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 houses an auditorium, gallery and café,
What to see and do
although these spaces are only open to
The most impressive sight in Alajuela is the public when there are performances
the sturdy-looking whitewashed former or events (call for information).
jail, Av 3, C 0/2, which houses the
Juan Santamaría Cultural-Â�Historical Arrival and information
Museum (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; free;
By air Juan Santamaría International Airport is less
Costa Rica

T 2441-4775). Dedicated to Alajue-

than 3km from the city. Many hotels and hostels will
la’s most cherished historical figure arrange a free pick-up with prior notice; otherwise
– drummer-boy-cum-martyr Juan take a yellow or red bus marked “Alajuela” from
Santamaría, who sacrificed his life outside the airport.
to save the country from American By bus Tuasa buses (red and black) from San José
adventurer William Walker in 1856 arrive at the Tuasa station, C 8/10, Av 0/1, three
The Valle Central and the Highlands

– the museum’s curiously monastic blocks west of the Parque Central; the daily bus to
atmosphere is almost more interesting Poás also passes through this stop. Station Wagon
than the small collection itself, which buses (beige and orange) from San José drop you
off on Av 4, C 2/4, 50m southwest of Parque Juan
runs the gamut from mid-nineteenth-
Santamaría.
century maps of Costa Rica to crumbly By car Take the pista towards the airport (General
portraits of figures involved in the Cañas Highway), then the turn-off to Alajuela, 17km
battle of 1856. One block south of the from San José – don’t use the underpass or you’ll
museum is a small plaza also named end up at the airport.
for Santamaría, on the north side of Tourist information There’s no official information
which you’ll find the recently renovated source in town. Goodlight Books, Av 3, C 1/3, is the
municipal theatre (T 2436-2362). The best place to go with questions, though their help
restored, Art Deco-inspired facade is limited.

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 Accommodation Directory
Alajuela Camp Ground Next to Quinta San Angel Exchange Banco Nacional, C 2, Av 0/1; Banco de
on the road to Tuetal (north of Alajuela) T 2398- San José, C 0, Av 3; and Scotiabank, C 2, Av 3, can
9024, Wwww.alajuelacampground.com. Excellent all change dollars and traveller’s cheques.
accommodation with camping facilities, basic Internet Goodlight Books, Av 3, C 1/3 (daily
dorms and private rooms. There’s also a 9am–6pm), has internet access, as well as a good
huge garden with fruit trees and soccer pitch. selection of secondhand books and maps, coffee

Costa Rica
Camping 2 , dorms 2 , doubles 4 and cakes.
Charly’s Place Av 5, C 0/2 T2441-0115 or Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat
8385-9891, Wwww.charlysplacehotel.com. Clean 7.30am–noon) is at Av 5, C 1.
and basic rooms of varying capacity, all en suite
with cable TV and breakfast included, plus use of Moving on
a kitchen and internet access. Group discounts

The Valle Central and the Highlands

available. Singles 5 , double 8 By bus Buses moving on from San José (towards
Coconut House Across from Parque Loma, 10m the Pacific) pass through Alajuela, but only stop
south and 350m west of La Trinidad supermarket depending on vacancy. Hotels should be able to
T 2441-1249, Wwww.coconuthouse.info. Great pre-arrange for a bus to stop and pick you up.
hotel with cosy rooms (all en suite) and good Services to Jacó (3 daily; 3hr 30min), La Fortuna/
included buffet breakfast. Tours and car rental can Arénal (3 daily; 3hr 30 min), Monteverde (2 daily;
be organized. 5 3hr), Liberia (frequent; 4hr 30min) and Puntarenas
Cortez Azul Av 5, C 2/4 T2443-6145, (frequent; 2hr 30min) all depart from La Radial
E [email protected]. This artist-run bus stop, 75m south of the Shell gas station (or
establishment has simple rooms (including two bomba) at C 4, C Ancha (Av 10). Services to Grecia
dorms) with lovely wooden floors, sculptures and (frequent; 1hr) and Sarchí (frequent; 1hr 15min)
mosaics. Dorms 2 , doubles 5 depart from C 8, Av 0/1. Services to nearby attrac-
Maleku Hostel 50m west of the main entrance of the tions – La Guácima Butterfly Farm (3 daily; 2hr),
new hospital T2430-4304, Wwww.malekuhostel Zoo-Ave (frequent; 15min) and Sabanilla (for Doka
.com. The best budget option in town, this is a small Coffee Farm; frequent; 40min) – depart from the
and cheerful family home with immaculate rooms and El Pacífico station, half a block south of the Tuasa
great advice on local travel and activities, plus free terminal at C 8/10, Av 0/2,
airport transfers. Dorms 2, doubles 5
Mango Verde Hostel Av 3, C 2/4 T2441-6330,
Around Alajuela
E [email protected]. Another good budget
choice, with simple en-suite rooms and an attrac- Heading north from Alajuela, the road
tive blue-walled courtyard. 3 begins to climb, the terrain becomes
noticeably greener and the air consid-
Eating erably cooler. Along this ascent you’ll
find numerous cabinas and chalets
Ambrosia Av 5, C 2. Economic Tican cuisine with
in rural settings with nice views and
some Italian-style options, including a hearty
lasagna. Casado 1700c, lasagna 1800c.
access to the nearby volcano, as well as
La Begonia C Ancha (C 9), Av 6 T2442-9846. several bars and restaurants that offer
Serves coffee (800c) from the nearby Doka estate excellent views of the Valle Central.
(which you can buy in bulk), as well as pastries, Travelling south to nearby destinations
cakes and empanadas. such as the Butterfly Farm, you’ll pass
Hamburguesas C Ancha (C 9), Av 0/2. A basic rural stretches of land and forest; if you
eatery with cheap fast food and popular ice creams carry on south you’ll eventually hit the
(350c). urban sprawl of San José.
Primer Sabor Av 3, C 2/4. A good choice of cheap
dishes from a large Chinese menu (2000–3500c);
Doka Estate Coffee Farm
try the chop suey and other Cantonese specials.
Closed Tues. Some 15km north of Alajuela, between
Tacqueria Cabuyo C 10, Av 3/5. A tiny taco stand, the towns of San Isidro and Sabanilla,
hugely popular with a local crowd for the cheap and you’ll find the Doka Estate Coffee Farm
filling snacks on offer. Tacos 300c. (tours daily 9am, 10am, 11am, 1.30pm,
509
 2.30pm, also Mon–Fri 3.30pm; US$16; and 2pm. Buses returning to Alajuela
T 2449-5152, W www.dokaestate.com), are frequent; for San José, enquire upon
which produces Café Tres Genera- arrival for return times.
ciones. Knowledgeable and enthusiastic
guides lead tours of the farm, explaining Zoo-Ave
the entire coffee-making process, from The largest aviary in Central America,
germinated seed to sun-dried bean (try Zoo-Ave (daily 9am–5pm; US$15;
to catch the 11am tour, when a cart ride
Costa Rica

W www.zooave.org), at Dulce Nombre,

takes you deep into the estate). Once 5km northeast of La Garita, a small
you’ve toured the plantation, roasting town near Alajulea, is just about the
factory and drying patios, there’s a free best place in the country to see the
tasting and the inevitable stop in the gift fabulous and many-coloured birds
shop; they can pack and mail coffee to – especially macaws – that inhabit
The Valle Central and the Highlands

the US and Canada. To see the coffee- Costa Rica.

pickers in action, come at harvest time The La Garita bus from Alajuela
(Nov–Feb). (15min) passes right by, leaving from
Many tour companies in San José the area southwest of the main terminal;
(including Expediciones Tropicales, on your return, you can flag down an
see p.500) include the farm on their Alajuela bus on the main road where
itineraries. To arrive independently, you arrived.
take a bus from Alajuela to Sabanilla
Parque and find a local taxi or car Sarchí
(about 1000c) to the estate. At the end
Touted as the centre of Costa Rican arts
of the tour, try to hitch a lift back to
and crafts, the village of SARCHÍ, 30km
Alajuela with returning tour groups;
alternatively, the farm can arrange a northwest of Alajuela, is a commercial-
taxi pick-up. ized place – firmly on the tourist trail
but without much charm. Its setting in
La Guácima Butterfly Farm the hills is pretty enough, but don’t come
Twelve kilometres southwest of expecting to see picturesque scenes
Alajuela, La Guácima Butterfly Farm of craftsmen sitting in small historic
(daily 8.30am–5pm, last tour 3pm; shops: the work is done in factories.
US$15; W www.butterflyfarm.co.cr) The most famous item produced here is
breeds valuable pupae for export to the Sarchí ox-cart, a kaleidoscopically
zoos and botanical gardens all over painted square cart of Moorish origin;
the world. The farm also has beautiful other crafts include tables, bedsteads
views over the Valle Central. In the and leather rocking chairs (about
wet season you should aim to get here US$90).
early, as the rain forces the butter- Large fábricas (workshops) line the
flies to hide, and the clouds obscure main road from Sarchí Sur, leading
the view; on a sunny day, however, up to the residential area of Sarchí
when the butterflies are active, it’s a Norte. The best local hotel is the Hotel
glorious sight; there are thousands of Daniel Zamora (T 2454-4596; 6 ),
them fluttering about like colourful on a side street opposite the football
tornados. pitch in Sarchí Norte, which has
From Alajuela, buses (marked “La clean rooms and hot water. For food,
Guácima Abajo”) leave from the area try Restaurante Helechos at the Plaza
southwest of the main bus terminal; de Artesanía, which serves plates of
the Butterfly Farm is practically the last Mexican and Tican fare (3000c), or La
stop. Buses from San José (2hr) leave Cafeteria, next to the I.C.E in Sarchí
from Av 4–6, C 10, at 7am, 8am, 11am Norte, which serves good gallos (filled
510
tortillas), pupusas (700c) and casados you only need about fifteen minutes for
(1600c). viewing and picture-snapping – if you
Local buses from Alajuela run approx- are lucky enough to see the view before
imately every thirty minutes from 5am the mist rolls in.
to 10pm. Buses back (via Grecia) can
be hailed on the main road. From San Walks
José an express service (1hr–1hr 30min) The park features a few well-maintained,

Costa Rica
runs from La Coca-Cola every hour short and unchallenging trails, which
from 6am to 8pm. Taxis between Sarchí take you through a strange, other-
Sur and Sarchí Norte, or to Alajeula or worldly landscape, dotted with smoking
Zarcero, can be called on T 2454-4028. fumaroles (steam vents) and tough
The Banco Nacional on the main road ferns and trees trying valiantly to hold
beyond the church (in Sarchí Norte) up against regular sulphurous scald-

The Valle Central and the Highlands

changes dollars and cheques, as does ings. Advice and a general map can be
a smaller branch in the Mercado de found at the visitors’ centre, next to the
Artesanía, Sarchí Sur. car park/bus stop, and all the trails are
clearly marked.
Parque Nacional The Crater Overlook trail (750m;
Volcán Poás 15min) winds its way from the visitors’
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN centre to the main crater, along a
POÁS (daily 8am–4pm; US$10), paved road. Side-trail Sandero Botos
just 55km from San José and 37km (1.4km; 30min) heads up through the
north of Alajuela, is one of the most forest to the pretty, emerald Botos
easily accessible active volcanoes in Lake, which fills an extinct crater and
the world. Its history of eruptions makes a good spot for a picnic. Named
goes back some eleven million years for the pagoda-like tree commonly
– the last gigantic blowout was on seen along its way, the Escalonia trail
January 25, 1910, when it dumped (about 1km; 30min) starts at the picnic
640,000 tonnes of ash on the area (follow the signs), then takes you
surrounding area – but at the moment through the forest, where the ground
it is comparatively quiet. The weather is cover is less stunted compared to that
make-or-break for viewing the volcano, at the crater.
as mists arise from nowhere and can
cover the crater within minutes; getting Wildlife-watching
there early means you have a better A wide variety of birds ply this temperate
chance of actually seeing the sights. forest, among them the ostentatiously
colourful quetzal, the robin and several
What to see and do species of hummingbird. Although a
number of large mammals live in the
You need to get to the volcano before park, including coyotes and wildcats
the clouds roll in, which they inevitably such as the margay, you’re unlikely to
do, sometimes as early as 10am, even in spot them. One animal you probably
the dry season (Dec–April). Poás has will come across, however, is the small,
blasted out three craters in its lifetime, green-yellow Poás squirrel, which is
and due to more or less constant activity, endemic to the area.
the appearance of the main crater is Poás is also home to a rare version
subject to change – it’s 1500m wide of cloudforest called dwarf or stunted
and filled with milky turquoise water cloudforest, a combination of pine-
from which sulphurous gases waft and needle-like ferns, miniature bonsai-type
broil. Although it’s an impressive sight, trees and bromeliad-encrusted cover,
511
 all of which has been stunted by an

treat yourself
onslaught of cold (temperatures up here Villa Calas By the Vara Blanca,
on the road to Poasito T2482-
can drop to below freezing), continual
2222 Wwww.villacalas.com.
cloud cover and acid rain from the This working dairy farm
mouth of the volcano. has several pretty cabañas
accommodating up to six
Arrival and information people. The location is great
Costa Rica

for nature lovers – you’re

By bus A Tuasa bus leaves daily at 8.30am from surrounded by gently lowing
Av 2, C 12/14, in San José, travelling via Alajuela cattle and visited by hundreds
(1hr 30min). of birds (including the elusive
By car If you want to reach Poás before both buses quetzal). The on-site restaurant
and clouds, either drive or take a taxi from Alajuela boasts fresh, local ingredients;
The Valle Central and the Highlands

(roughly US$40) or San José (US$50–60) – reason- dishes start at around 4000c. Double
ably affordable if split between a group of people. cabins 6
Tourist information The park’s visitors’ centre,
next to the car park at the entrance, has a souvenir
with basic en-suite double rooms. The attached
shop, bathroom facilities and an expensive
restaurant (8am–9pm daily) serves typical food at
cafeteria.
very reasonable prices; breakfast is included in your
Tours Most visitors get to the volcano on pre-
room price. 5
arranged tours from San José – (approximately
US$45 per person for a 4–5hr trip; see p.500 for
details of tour operators). The “Four-in-One” tour
La Paz Waterfall
organized by Expediciones Tropicales (T2257- Gardens
4171, Wwww.costaricainfo.com) is very popular,
A fifteen-kilometre drive east of Poás is
and also takes in the La Paz Waterfall Gardens,
one of Costa Rica’s most popular attrac-
Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo and a boat ride
on Río Sarapiquí (US$87 per person, including tions, the La Paz Waterfall
breakfast, lunch and guide; 11hr). Gardens (daily 8am–5pm; US$32;
Wwww.waterfallgardens.com), an immac-
Accommodation ulate series of riverside trails linking five
waterfalls on the Río La Paz. The trails
There are plenty of places to stay in the vicinity are all set in a large colourful garden, and
of the volcano, including a couple of comfortable there’s also a butterfly observatory, aviary,
mountain lodges on working dairy farms (you’ll trout lake, frog exhibit and serpentarium.
need a car to get to them) and other, more simple From the reception centre, visitors can
and inexpensive places that can be reached on the take one of several self-guided tours,
daily bus to Poás. There is no camping allowed in
which wind prettily through the site and
the park.
along the river. Viewing platforms at
Lodges various points along the trails mean allow
Lo Que tu Quieras 4km before the park you to get both above and underneath the
entrance T 2482-2092 or 8814-9150, waterfalls, the highest of which, Magia
E [email protected]. A good Blanca, crashes deafeningly down some
budget option for the area, comprising three 40m. The marked trails conclude at the
simple wooden cabins (one with a fireplace top of the La Paz Waterfall, Costa Rica’s
for the chilly mountain nights) with en-suite most photographed cascade (it can also
bathrooms. The on-site restaurant has huge be seen from the public highway below).
picture windows that show off the stunning views
There’s no public transport to the
and serves local dishes and tasty drinks – try the
home-brewed cardamom or raspberry cocktails.
gardens, and most people visit them as
Camping is also permitted (2 ). Rooms 5 part of a tour from San José (see p.500
Mirador Quetzal Just before Lo Que tu Quieras for operators). If you’re driving, take a
T 2482-2090, Erestmiradorquetzal@latinmail right at the junction in Poásito towards
.com. This simple spot is the cheapest in the area, Vara Blanca; on reaching the village,
512
 take a left at the gas station and follow Baroque” – has kept it standing since
the well-marked signs for 5km. 1797, despite several earthquakes. North
of the plaza, the old colonial tower of El
Heredia Fortín, “the Fortress”, features odd gun
Just 11km northeast of San José is the slats which fan out and widen from the
lively town of HEREDIA, boosted by inside to the exterior, giving it a medieval
the student population of the Univer- look; you cannot enter or climb it.

Costa Rica
sidad Nacional (UNA) at the eastern end East of the tower on Avenida Central,
of town. The town centre is prettier than the Casa de la Cultura, an old colonial
house with a large breezy veranda,
most, with a few historical buildings,
displays local artwork, including sculp-
though it is a bit run-down. Lacking any
ture and painting by local schoolchildren
major tourist draws, however, Heredia
(generally open Mon–Fri 10am–5pm,
is used by travellers mainly as a base

The Valle Central and the Highlands

occasionally on weekends). The Mercado
for trips to Volcán Barva and Braulio
Central, Av 6/8, C 2/4 (daily 5am–6pm),
Carillo national park.
has the usual mess of aisles lined with
rows of fruit and veg, dangling sausages
What to see and do and plump prawns.
Heredia’s layout conforms to the usual
grid system, centred on the quiet Parque Arrival and information
Central, draped with huge mango trees By bus Buses arrive along Av 6, C 3.
and overlooked by the plain Basílica Exchange Banco Nacional, C 2, Av 2/4, and
de la Inmaculada Concepción, whose Scotiabank, Av 2, C 0 (also open Sat 8am–4pm) can
unexcitingly squat design – “seismic change dollars and traveller’s cheques.

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 Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat Mon, Tues and Thurs, when there’s live music;
7.30am–noon) is on the northwest corner of the otherwise, Latin and reggae beats dominate the
Parque Central. dancefloor.
Taxis Available taxis line up on the east side of the Océanos C 4, Av 2/4. Nautically themed bar
Mercado Central, between Av 6 and 8, and on the decorated with an assortment of fishing parapher-
southern side of the Parque Central. nalia and surfboards. It’s popular with students for
its cheap drinks and good bocas. Beer 650c.
Rancho Fofo C 7, Av 0. Just blocks from the
Accommodation
Costa Rica

university campus, this bar and seafood restaurant

Accommodation in downtown Heredia is pretty is massively popular with local students – there’s
sparse, though it’s unlikely you’ll need to stay in lots of banging music and happy hour drink promo-
town, since San José is within easy reach and tions. Beer 800c, bar snacks 1500c.
there are also several more interesting hotels in the
country nearby. Moving on
The Valle Central and the Highlands

Dreamplace Hostel Av 2, C 3/5 T2506-1111,

W www.costaricatravel.ch. A good budget hostel By bus to: San José (C 6, Av 3; frequent; 45min).
with bright rooms and a small garden terrace. Services to Paso Llano and Sacramento, for Volcán
Dorms 3 , rooms 4 –6 Barva and PN Braulio Carrillo (frequent; 1hr), will
Hotel Ceos C 4, Av 1 T2262-2628, Wwww drop you within 5km of the park’s entrance. The
.hotelamericacr.com. A small hotel with ten simple town has no central bus terminal, but a variety of
rooms all with private bath, hot water and cable TV. well-signed stops are scattered across town, mainly
There’s also a restaurant serving local cuisine. You around the Mercado Central, from where most local
can’t miss the Canadian flags outside. Singles 4 , buses leave.
doubles 5 , triple 6
Hotel Heredia C 6, Av 3/5 T2238-0880, Wwww around heredia
.hotelamericacr.com. Another good option, with
North and east of Heredia the terrain
twelve basic rooms offering en-suite bathrooms,
hot water and cable TV. Singles 3 , doubles 4 , climbs to higher altitudes, reaching its
triple 5 highest point at Volcán Barva, at the
western entrance of wild and rugged
Eating Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.
The towns around here – Barva,
Café Espigas C 2, Av 2, southwest corner of the Santa Barbara de Heredia and San
Parque Central. Though serving meal combos that Joaquín de Heredia – are the favoured
include casados, burgers and sandwiches, this residences of expats, but there’s little to
café specializes in Britt Finca coffee, with good detain the visitor.
cappuccinos and espressos. Coffee 600c, meal
combo 2650c.
Soda La Modelo C 6, Av 4. A busy central soda
Museo de la Cultura
with good budget staples, from casados (1800c) to Popular
cakes (500c). Open 24hr. Set in a large house in landscaped coffee
Shalom Café C 2, Av 6/4. A fine alternative to gallo fields two kilometres north of Heredia,
pinto and casados, this small eatery serves great the Museo de la Cultura Popular (Mon–
pita and falafel combos for 2200c. Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm;
US$2; T 2260-1619, W www.ilam.org
Drinking .cr/museoculturapopoular) tries to give
an authentic portrayal of nineteenth-
Nightlife is student-driven, restricted to a few local and early twentieth-century campesino
spots – the crowds head to the capital to party. If
life. The kitchen has been preserved as
you’re young or studently inclined, head to the four
blocks immediately west of the university for the
it would have been on a coffee finca,
best bars. Keep an eye out for Tican chains Vishnu and you can sample authentic food of
and Trigo Miel, which also have branches here. the period, including torta de arroz, pan
Miraflores Av 2, C 2, upstairs from Café Espigas. casero and gallos picadillos, although
This bar/disco is a popular night spot, especially apart from this there’s little to do other
514
 than to wander around the house and the begins at the western edge of Braulio
carefully kept gardens. Frequent buses Carrillo, and ascends through dense
depart Heredia from Av 1, C 1/3, and deciduous cover before reaching the
can be flagged down on the road for the cloudforest at the top. Along the way
return journey. you’ll get panoramic views over the Valle
Central. Many travellers wander off the
Parque Nacional Braulio trails and get lost; take a compass, water

Costa Rica
Carrillo and Volcán Barva and food, a sweater and rain gear, just
The PARQUE NACIONAL BRAULIO in case. Security has become a growing
CARRILLO (8am–4pm; US$10 problem in the park; leave nothing in
advance purchase, US$15 on site), 35km parked vehicles, and try to find a guide
northeast of San José, covers 325 square for longer hikes. Try to get to the park
kilometres of virgin rain- and cloud- early in the morning to enjoy the clearest

The Valle Central and the Highlands

forest. The growth here gives you a good views at the top, and be prepared for
idea of what much of Costa Rica used to serious mud in the rainy season.
look like fifty years ago, when approxi- You can get to the village of Sacra-
mately three-quarters of the country’s mento, 3km from the entrance, by bus
total terrain was virgin rainforest. from Heredia, but there’s no public trans-
The park has five staffed ranger port beyond here. If driving you’ll have
stations, or puestos. There are picnic to cope with a bad stretch of road just
facilities and several marked trails before the volcano – a 4WD is necessary.
leading from the puestos into the forest.
If you want to stay near the volcano, Cartago
basic huts and camping facilities are CARTAGO, meaning “Carthage”, was
available at the Barva puesto (T 2261- Costa Rica’s capital for three hundred
2619); this is the most commonly used years before the centre of power was
entry point, and also marks the entry moved to San José in 1823. Founded in
point for trails up the dormant Volcán 1563 by Juan Vázquez de Coronado, the
Barva (separate entry US$7). The main city, like its ancient namesake, has been
trail (3km; about 1hr) up Barva’s slopes razed a number of times, although in
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515
 this case by earthquakes rather than rooms and breakfast, as well as the Puerta del Sol
Romans – two, in 1823 and 1910, practi- restaurant downstairs. Ask at the bar if there’s no
cally demolished the place. Most travel- one in reception. 6
Hotel Dinastia C 3, Av 6/8 T2551-7057. A basic
lers don’t actually stay here, but pass
hotel with spartan rooms (some en suite) but
through the town to visit the basilica friendly service and a good central location, 75m
and ruins on trips to Volcán Irazú. north of the central market. 4
San Francisco Lodge & Hostel C 3, Av 6/8,
Costa Rica

What to see and do next to Hotel Dinastia T2574-2359,

[email protected].
Cartago’s highlight is the Iglesia de la The only truly budget hostel in town, with plain
Parroquía (known as “Las Ruinas”), dorms and free breakfast. Rooms are booked as
which sits on the eastern end of the a whole, so groups will do better here. 3
concrete Parque Central. Originally
The Valle Central and the Highlands

built in 1575, the church was repeat- Eating

edly destroyed by earthquakes, but
Café Galeria Av 4, C 6/8. Good coffee and cakes,
stubbornly rebuilt by the Cartagoans
as well as breakfast and lunch, are served here in
each time, until the giant earthquake a small space decorated with local artwork. Coffee
of 1910 finally vanquished it. Only 600c, gallo pinto 1200c.
the elegantly tumbling walls remain, La Puerta Del Sol Av 4, C 18, across from the
enclosing pretty subtropical gardens. basilica. The usual assortment of casados and
The ruins are not open to the public, but burgers, at restaurant prices. This is one of the
a view of them can be enjoyed from the most popular places in town (especially on Sun), so
central park across the road. service can be slow. Plates 2000–4000c.
From the ruins it’s five minutes’ walk Soda Cristal Av 4, C 16. This cheap and central
soda offers decent comida t’pica and cold beer.
east to Cartago’s only other attraction: the
Beer 750c, casado 1700c.
cathedral, properly called the Basílica
de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles,
at C 16 and Av 2, which was rebuilt in Moving on
a decorative Byzantine style after the By bus to: San José (every 10min 5am–midnight,
original was destroyed in an earthquake then every hour), leave from Av 4/6, C 2/4.
in 1926. Millions of Costa Ricans make
an annual pilgrimage here in August to around Cartago
honour the statue of La Negrita (or the
Dominating the landscape around
Black Virgin), the nation’s patron saint.
Cartago, mighty Volcán Irazú is the
area’s most popular excursion. The
Arrival and information Lankaster Gardens, a botanical centre
By bus Buses arrive at Av 4/6, C 2/4. with an enormous variety of orchids,
Exchange Banco de Costa Rica, Av 4, C 5/7; Banco is the other frequented day-trip in the
Nacional, C 3, Av 2; and Scotiabank, Av 2, C 2/4 (all area.
open Sat 9am–1pm) will change traveller’s cheques.
Internet Café at Av 4, C 8/10 (daily 10am–10pm). Parque Nacional Volcán
Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm, Sat Irazú
7.30am–noon) is 10min from the town centre at
Some 32km north of Cartago, Parque
Av 2, C 15/17.
Nacional Volcán Irazú (daily 8am–
Taxis There is a rank at Las Ruinas. A trip to nearby
Lankaster Gardens should cost about US$25. 4pm; US$10 advance purchase, US$15
on site) makes for a long, but scenic,
trip from the city. The park’s blasted-out
Accommodation
lunar landscape is dramatic, reaching
Los Angeles Lodge On the square by the Basilica a height of 3432m and giving fantastic
T 2551-0957. The Lodge offers simple en-suite views to the Caribbean on clear days,
516
while the inactive Diego de la Haya Turrialba
crater is creepily impressive, its deep The pleasant agricultural town of
depression filled with a strange green TURRIALBA, 45km east of Cartago
lake. Two marked trails lead from the on the eastern slopes of the Cordillera
entrance, where you’ll find the ranger’s Central, has sweeping views over the
booth, to the crater. rugged eastern Talamancas, though
Only one public bus runs to the park, there’s little to keep visitors here – most

Costa Rica
originating from the Gran Hotel Costa are likely to see it as part of a trip to
Rica in San José (daily 8am) – be there the Monumento Nacional Guayabo
early in high season to get a seat. It or en route to a whitewater rafting or
picks up passengers at Las Ruinas in kayaking trip on the Reventazón or
Cartago at 8.45am, then returns to San Pacuaré rivers. Costa Rica Expeditions
José around noon. The bus pulls in at and Expediciones Tropicales (see p.500)

The Valle Central and the Highlands

the crater parking area, where there are offer rafting day-trips for US$75–100,
toilets and a visitors’ centre offering and many of the mountain-lodge-type
information on the park and containing hotels in the area have guided walks
a snack bar (open on weekends). or horseback rides up dormant Volcán
If you want to spend more time than Turrialba. San José–Turrialba buses
the bus allows, the Ricardo Jimenez leave every hour between 5am and
Oreamuno recreational area southwest 10pm from C 13, Av 6/8.
of the volcano has several trails and
camping facilities; contact the ranger Monumento Nacional
station (T 2551-9398) for info. Five Guayabo
kilometres before the park entrance The most important archeological
Nochebuena offers further lodging site in Costa Rica, the Monumento
(T 2530-8013/8023) and a volcano Nacional Guayabo (daily 8am–4pm;
museum (US$4) consisting of a short US$7; T 2559-0099 or 2556-9057) lies
video, and detailed accounts of volcano 19km northeast of Turrialba. Though
history and the flora and fauna that interesting, in truth there’s not a great
survive in the harsh climate. The simple deal to see (really just some stone
cabin for rent has three bedrooms and a heaps), as the site’s importance has
sweet fireplace (7 ). more to do with the dearth of any other
surviving contemporary structures in
Lankaster Gardens Costa Rica. Guayabo belongs to the
Orchids are the main attraction at archeological-cultural area known as
Lankaster Gardens (daily 8.30am– Intermedio, which begins roughly in
4.30pm; US$5; T 2552-3247), a tropical the province of Alajuela and extends
garden and research station 6km south- to Venezuela, Colombia and parts of
east of Cartago. The dry months of Ecuador. Archeologists believe that
March and April are the best time to see Guayabo was inhabited from about
the blooms. 1000 BC to 1400 AD; most of the
To get to the gardens take a Paraíso heaps of stones and basic structures
bus from Cartago, getting off when now exposed were erected between
you see the Casa Vieja restaurant, 300 and 700 AD.
about ten minutes out of town. Take Daily buses run to Guayabo from
the road to your right, signposted to Turrialba from 100m south of the
the gardens, then turn right again at main bus terminal (Mon–Sat 11am &
the fork – it’s about a ten-minute walk. 5.15pm, returning 12.30pm & 5.30pm;
Alternatively, a taxi from Cartago costs Sun 9am, returning 5pm), though the
US$25. inconvenient timetable means you
517
 either have not enough or too much city, Puerto Limón, is a port town with
time at the site. Driving from Turri- a large (mostly Jamaican-descended)
alba takes about thirty minutes; the last Afro-Caribbean population; Caribbean
4km is on a bad gravel road – passable English or patois is spoken widely along
with a regular car, but watch your the coast. Near the Panamanian border
clearance. Taxis charge around US$30 you’ll find communities of indigenous
from Turrialba. peoples from the Bribrí and Cabécar
groups.
Costa Rica

Getting around Limón Province

can require patience. From San José to

Limón
Puerto Limón there are just two roads,
and from Puerto Limón to the Panama

Province and
border at Sixaola there is one narrow and
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

badly maintained route. North of Puerto

the Caribbean
Limón there is no public land transport
at all: instead, private lanchas ply the

coast
coastal canals connecting Moín, 8km
north of Puerto Limón, to Tortuguero
and Río Colorado near the Nicaraguan
Sparsely populated Limón Province border. There are also scheduled flights
sweeps south in an arc from Nicaragua from San José to Tortuguero. It’s worth
down to Panama. Hemmed in to the nothing that travel in northern Limón
north by dense jungles and swampy province is not as cheap as in other
waterways, to the west by the mighty parts of the country due to a scarcity of
Cordillera Central and to the south by options; even cheaper boat routes add
the even wider girth of the Cordillera up when you take connecting bus/taxi
Talamanca, the region has a lost, end- trips into account.
of-the-world feel.
Limón holds much appeal for Puerto Limón
ecotourists, having the highest propor- PUERTO LIMÓN, 165km east of San
tion of protected land in the country. José, is Costa Rica’s main port, with a
At Tortuguero you can watch giant sea somewhat neglected air and a reputa-
turtles lay their eggs, while at Cahuita tion as Central America’s prime drug-
and Manzanillo you can snorkel coral trafficking gateway. The place does have
reefs and surf at Puerto Viejo. In some rough edges, and while the stories
addition, more than anywhere else in Highland Ticos tell of the place are a bit
Costa Rica, the Caribbean coast exudes exaggerated, it’s worth watching your
a sense of cultural diversity. The largest back – much of the town is not safe for

Carnaval in Limón
Though in the rest of the Americas Carnaval is usually associated with the days
before Lent, Limón takes Columbus’s arrival in the New World – October 12 – as
its point of celebration. El Día de la Raza (Columbus Day) is basically an excuse
to party.
The carnival features a variety of events, from Afro-Caribbean dance to Calypso
music, bull-running, children’s theatre, colourful desfiles (parades) and firework
displays. Most spectacular is the Gran Desfile, usually held on the Saturday before
October 12, when revellers in Afro-Caribbean costumes parade through the streets.
This is the most popular time of year to visit Limón. so book rooms well in advance.

518
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Limón Province and the Caribbean coast Costa Rica

519
 solo exploration, especially at night. north of town; from here you’ll need to take a taxi
Generally speaking, tourists come to (US$15–25, try to gather a group at the dock to
Limón for one of three reasons: to get split the fare).
By bus Transportes Caribeños services from San
a boat to Tortuguero from Moín, to
José arrive at the Gran Terminal del Caribe at
get a bus south to Cahuita and Puerto Av 2, C 7/8. Arrivals from the south – Cahuita,
Viejo or to join the annual Carnaval- Puerto Viejo and Panama (via Sixaola) – terminate
like celebration of El Día de la Raza at the Transportes Mepe stop at Av 4, C 2/4, just
(Columbus Day) in October.
Costa Rica

north of the Mercado.

Tourist information Contact the San José ICT
What to see and do (T2299-5800) – there’s no official tourist office in
Limón Province.
As opposed to other Costa Rican towns,
Limón’s avenidas run more or less east– Accommodation
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

west in numerical order, starting at the

docks. Calles run north–south, beginning While staying downtown keeps you in the thick
of things, the area is noisy, especially at night.
with Calle 1 on the western boundary
Accomodation here is very basic, but secure
of Parque Vargas, by the malecón (sea
enough. There’s a group of quieter (and more
wall). Although most of Limón is not the expensive) hotels outside town, about 4km up the
gangland paradise it’s made out to be, try road to Moín at Portete and Playa Bonita. A taxi
not to stand around looking lost. Walking here costs about US$2, and the bus to and from
around the centre, or along Avenida 1 Moín runs along the road every twenty minutes
between Parque Vargas and the stadium, or so. Opportunistic car theft is rife, so if driving,
at night is not recommended. it’s worth either booking a room at the Hotel Acón,
one of only a few places to have private parking,
or storing your car in a guarded 24hr parking lot.
The Town
Be aware that hotel prices rise by as much as fifty
Take fifteen minutes to walk around percent for Carnaval week, and to a lesser extent
Puerto Limón and you’ve seen the lot. during Semana Santa at Easter.
The partly pedestrianized Avenida 2,
known locally as the “market street”, is In town
for all purposes the main drag, touching Hotel Acón Av 3, C 2/3 T 2758-1010. A large,
the north edge of Parque Vargas, at the central hotel with rather gloomy rooms, though
easternmost end of C 1 and Av 1/2, and they are well-equipped with TV, a/c and hot water.
the south side of the Mercado Central. The Aquarius disco here is one of the busiest
in town. Private parking available. Singles 5 ,
There’s a vaguely interesting display of
doubles 6
marine life housed within the arcade Hotel Intercontinental Av 5, C 2/3 T2758-0434.
at C 2, Av 1/2, including some rehabili- One of the cheapest places in town, with plain en-
tating sea turtles; the owner of Eskimo suite rooms (with fan or a/c) and thin walls – you’ll
ice cream next door can help with trans- know exactly what your neighbours are up to.
lations of the exhibit. Shops in Limón Singles 2 , doubles 3
close over lunch, between noon and 2pm, Hotel Miami Av 2, C 4/5 T2758-0490. Friendly
when everyone drifts towards Parque place where the clean rooms all have ceiling fans,
Vargas and the malecón to sit under the cable TV and private bathrooms. The large balcony
has a good view of the central market and main
shady palms. Forget swimming here, no
street. 4
matter how hot it gets; one look at the
water at the tiny spit of sand next to the Portete and Playa Bonita
Hotel Park is enough discouragement. Apartotel Cocori Playa Bonita T 2795-2930.
Clean, basic rooms (all with TV and a/c, some with
Arrival and information sea views) and a small restaurant with waterfront
views. Breakfast included. 6
By boat Launches arriving from Tortuguero or Oasys del Caribe On the road to Playa Bonita
other northern destinations dock at Moín, just T2795-0024, [email protected].
520
Clean rooms with fan or a/c, set in lush gardens with Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm,
a pool and on-site restaurant. 5–6 Sat 8.30am–noon) is at Av 2, C 4, though the mail
service from Limón is dreadful.
Eating and drinking
Moving on
Limón has pretty good, varied food. The town’s
speciality is Creole cooking – rice and beans cooked By boat Lanchas (US$50 per person; 3–5hr) make
in coconut milk, jerk chicken and spicy meat stews the trip to Tortuguero from the docks at Moín, just

Costa Rica
– though many restaurants serve Chinese options, outside of town to the north. Arrive early (7–9am),
as well as comida t’pica. There’s a host of decent although you may to be able to find boatmen until
sodas inside the Mercado Central. Most locals 2pm. If you are travelling alone or in a couple, try to
hang out with a beer in the evenings, but gringos, get a group together at the docks.
especially women, should avoid bars, particularly By bus From the Gran Terminal del Caribe terminal:
those that have large placards blocking views of the Transportes Caribeños services run to San José

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

interior. Don’t drink the tap water in Limón. (hourly 5am–7pm), and Trasaca (T2797-2036,
wwww.trasaca.com) services run to Guápiles, Moín
Restaurants and bars (Mon–Fri hourly 5.30am–6.30pm) and Siquirres.
Eskimo In the arcade at C 2, Av 1/2. Ice cream From the Transportes Mepe office (T2758-
(350c), excellent coffees (300c) and pastries 1572/0618) at C 3, Av 4 buses (hourly 5am–6pm)
and basic dishes served in a clean and breezy to: Bribrí (3–4hr); Cahuita (1hr); Puerto Viejo
passageway. Abraham, the friendly owner, speaks (1hr 30min–2hr); Sixaola (3–4 hr). Buses also run
English and is a good source of information on to Manzanillo (5 weekly, 4 Sat–Sun; 2–3hr).
the area. By taxi Taxis line up outside the main bus terminal,
Fruit and Veggies Land C 7, Av 2/3. The place to and will do trips to Moín (US$3–5), Cahuita and
detox, with a huge display of fresh local produce, Puerto Viejo (US$40–50).
delicious batidos and fruit salads. Juices 600c,
salads from 900c. tortuguero
La Fuente C 3, Av 3/4. Large bar/restaurant with
kitsch decor and friendly service. The menu ranges The peaceful village of TORTU-
from filling burgers (1200c) to chop suey (1500c), GUERO lies on a thin spit of land
and the bar is always crowded. between the sea and the Tortuguero
M y M Av 2, C 4/5. A barn-like eatery with a tacky, Canal, at the corner of one of Costa
1980s Christmas interior and huge menu offering Rica’s great natural attractions –
seafood, Chinese and Tican dishes at bargain Parque Nacional Tortuguero. Despite
prices. Cheeseburger 900c, chow mein 2500c. its isolation – 254km from San José,
Pizza Caribe Express Av 4, C 2. Cheap and
and 83km northwest of Limón – the
slightly greasy pizzeria also serving spaghetti
(1500c) and sandwiches (700c). Small pizza 2000c.
area is extremely popular with visitors,
Soda Bio Natura C 6, Av 4. A healthy option with mainly because of its spectacular
good breakfast choices (around 1600c). Try a thirst- biodiversity. It can rain up to 300 days
quenching fruit batido (550c) or some avocado a year here, and the soggy environment
toast (700c). hosts a wide abundance of species: fifty
kinds of fish, over 100 reptiles, over
Directory 300 species of birds and 60 species of
mammals, several under the threat of
Exchange Banco de Costa Rica, Av 2, C 1 (Mon–Fri extinction. Most notably, the beach
8am–4pm), and Scotiabank, Av 3, C 2 (Mon–Fri here is one of the world’s main nesting
8.30am–4.30pm, Sat 8.30am–3.30pm), will change
sites for green sea turtles.
dollars.
Internet At Cyber Internet, Av 4, C 3 (daily
9am–8pm) or in La Casona souvenir shop, C 1, Av 2 What to see and do
(Mon–Sat 8am–5pm), across from Parque Vargas.
Medical care Hospital Dr Tony Facio Castro It’s the turtles that draw the crowds.
(T 2758-0580), at the north end of the malecón, or Though the most popular – and expen-
the 24hr Red Cross centre (T2758-0125) on Av 1, sive – way to see them is on one of
one block south of the market. hundreds of packages that use the
521
 getting to tortuguero
Getting to Tortuguero independently can be tricky – you can either do a
combination bus/boat route, or you can fly.
By bus In San José, buses depart for the town of Cariari from the Gran Terminal
del Caribe (C 0, Av 13) – catch one at 6.30am, 9am or 10.30am to make the
onward connections from Cariari to Tortuguero. Purchase tickets in advance
from the Guápiles counter (T 2222-0610) in the terminal. Upon arrival in Cariari,
Costa Rica

you have a few options, all of which involve a bus-to-boat transfer. Coopertraca
(T 2767-7590 or 8368-1275) has a ticket office at the arrival terminal, with
onward bus connections to La Pavona (1hr 30min; US$2), from where the boats
launch, at 6am, 9.30am, 11.30am and 3pm. Clic Clic (T 2709-8155 or 8844-0463)
also does the trip (6am and noon). Buses leave from the old station in Cariari,
about five blocks north of the arrival terminal. If your bus gets in to Cariari at
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

3pm, just missing the last bus connection, you can still get to the docks before
the last boats leave at 4.30pm – you’ll have to take a taxi (US$20–30).
By boat Coopertraca has boats (US$3) departing from La Pavona (7.30am,
10.30am, 1.30pm & 4.30pm), as does Clic Clic (6am, 8.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm,
3.30pm & 4.30pm). Ruben Bananero (T2709-8005) has more expensive services:
buses with onward boat connections (via the Geest plantation) from San José and
Cariari, as well as two daily boats (10am and 3pm) from Moín. From Moín you can
also find lanchas willing to take you up the canal anytime from 6am until 2pm.
By air Sansa (T 2223-4179) and NatureAir (T 2299-6000) offer daily flights from San
José to Tortuguero (departing 6–7am; 40–50min).

all-inclusive “jungle lodges” in the explaining the history of turtle conser-

canals near the village, you can also visit vation in the area.
Tortuguero and the park independ-
ently, staying in cabinas in the village Parque Nacional
and arrange trips with local guides. Tortuguero
Entrance to the park (8am–4pm;
The Town US$10; T 2710-2929) is at the Cuatro
Covered in wisteria, oleander and Esquinas Station, just south of the
bougainvillea, Tortuguero village looks village and reached by the main path
like a dilapidated tropical garden. It is (right from the main dock). During
centred on the main dock, or muelle, the day you can walk the gener-
where all the lanchas arrive. The main ally well-maintained, self-guided El
signpost here has a village map to help Gavilán trail (1km), which starts
you orient yourself. Two dirt paths at the entrance and skirts a small
run north–south through the village swamp, covering the width of the
– the “main street” and “Avenida 2”, or land from lagoon to sea. You can also
secondary street – from which narrow amble for up to 30km south along the
paths go off to the sea and the canal. beach, enjoying a bit of crab-spotting
At the north end of the village there’s a or birdwatching as you go, as well
Natural History Museum (daily 10am– as looking for turtle tracks, which
5.30pm; US$1) run by the Caribbean resemble the two thick parallel lines
Conservation Corporation (W www trucks leave in their wakes. Check
.cccturtle.org), which houses a small with local information sources before
but informative exhibition explaining swimming, though – currents can be
the life cycle of sea turtles and a video strong, and sharks present.

522
Turtle tours “peak”, from where there are good views
You can watch the turtles lay their eggs of flat jungle and inland waterways. It is
by taking part in a turtle tour. These possible to do this hike alone, but paying
trips, led by certified guides, leave a guide means you are more likely to
nightly at 8pm and 10pm from the actually see snakes (before stepping on
village. There are more than a hundred them) and other camouflaged wildlife
certified guides in Tortuguero; they along the way; many local operators

Costa Rica
charge US$15–20 for a tour, and tend offer guided hikes from US$20.
to hang around the main dock in search
of custom. You’ll also need to buy a Arrival and information
ticket (US$10) from rangers at the
park entrance, east of the main dock. By air Flights land at the airstrip some 4km north
of the village; if you are staying at a lodge, they
No more than two hundred people are

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

will come and pick you up; otherwise you’ll have
allowed on the beach at any one time, to walk.
visitors must wear dark clothing, refrain By boat All lanchas pull into the dock, or muelle, in
from smoking and are not allowed to the centre of Tortuguero town. Guides wait here to
bring cameras (still or video) or flash- scavenge independent travellers.
lights. Everyone must be off the beach Tourist information See wwww.tortuguerovillage
by midnight. .com for local maps, tour information and a
comprehensive business listing. In the village,
Boat tours handy maps and advice can be found from the Pura
Vida Tours “office” at El Muellecito restaurant.
Almost as popular as the turtle tours in
Tortuguero are the boat tours through
the area’s canals and caños, or lagoons, Accommodation
to spot animals including monkeys, Staying in Tortuguero on a budget entails bedding
caiman and Jesus Christ lizards, and down in one of the independent cabinas in the
birds including herons, cranes and village. Camping on the beach is not allowed, but
kingfishers. Fishing trips and boat you can pitch your tent by the park entrance for
rentals (US$10–15/hr) are offered by US$3 a day.
most tour operators. Cabinas Aracari South of the football pitch
T2709-8006. Clean, comfortable cabinas, all with
Cerro Tortuguero private bath, cold water and fan, set in a beautiful
tree-filled garden. 4
It’s possible to scale Cerro Tortuguero,
Cabinas Balcon del Mar On the beachfront, just
an ancient volcanic deposit looming south of Cabinas Icaco T 2709-8124 or 8870-
above the flat coastal plain 6km north of 6247. These six rooms are the cheapest lodging
the village. A climb up the gently sloping in town; those upstairs in the main house have
side, on either the La Ceiba or La Bomba a balcony, while the separate cabinas are en
trails (90min return), leads you to the suite. 2

Turtle time
Every year Tortuguero is overrun with visitors who come for one reason – to see
marine turtles lay their eggs (an event called the desove). Although Tortuguero is
by no means the only place in Costa Rica to see marine turtles nesting, three of
the largest kinds of endangered sea turtles regularly nest here in large numbers.
Along with the green (verde) turtle, named for the colour of soup made from its
flesh, you might see the hawksbill (carey), with its distinctive hooked beak, and the
ridged leatherback (baula), the largest turtle in the world, which can easily weigh
300kg – some are as heavy as 400kg and reach 3m in length. The green turtles
and hawksbills nest in the greatest numbers from July to October (Aug is the peak
month); the leatherbacks come ashore from March to May.
523
 Tour operators in tortuguero
There are many tour operators in Tortuguero offering competitively priced
excursions; Caiman and Tunan have some of the cheapest available. Most cabinas
will be able to organize tours for you, as well.
Caiman/Pura Vida Tours At El Muellecito restaurant (T2814-7403 or 2709-8104,
E [email protected]). Organizes turtle and canoe tours, as well as lancha
trips to Moín, Puerto Viejo and Cahuita. Brothers Alfonso and Abel, who run the
Costa Rica

trips, speak some English.

Caribeño Fishing Tours Next to Miss Junie’s (T2709-8026). Offers rod fishing, as
well as all the other tours, although at US$65/hr, they are not cheap.
Tunan Tours At the Dorling Bakery (T 2709-8132 or 8876-2263). Organizes all sorts
of tour and lancha trips; English-speaking guides are available.
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

Cabinas Caribbean Sunrise On the left, past the menu, but good coffee (café latte 1600c) and a
Taberna Punta de Encuentro T2709-8167, lovely outdoor garden facing the river. Closed Wed.
[email protected]. Large, cool rooms Dorling Bakery Across from The Jungle souvenir
(all with en suite, cable TV and fans, and some with shop. A great spot for breakfast or a snack, with
kitchens) run by American surfer Gary. 4 delicious cakes, cookies, pies and ice cream – try
Cabinas Icaco On the beachfront, 100m south of the banana bread (600c) or guava pie. Seating
Miss Miriam II T2709-8044, Eelicaco1 available in the riverside garden, which has a pretty
@yahoo.es. A large green building with 14 rooms, view. Coffee 600c.
all en suite with hot water and fan. There’s a good La Lapa Verde Just past Cabinas Aracari. A cheery
communal kitchen and relaxing hammock area; soda, decorated in pastels and plastic flowers, with
camping facilities also available. Camping 1 , large casados (2500c) and good refrescos (500c).
rooms 3 Doña Florentina, who runs the kitchen, makes a
Cabinas Meriscar South of Cabinas Aracari, mean rice and beans (3500c).
100m before the beach T 2709-8202. Two cabins Miss Miriam’s II On the beachfront, next to the
with private bathrooms, plus some cabinas with Adventist church. Cheerful and immaculate
shared bathroom – they’re slightly gloomy, but restaurant serving Caribbean fare. Rooms
large and clean. Camping available in the garden. available, too (4 ). Meals 2800–5600c.
Camping 1 , rooms 2 El Muellecito Next to the Super Nicarao.
Cabinas Princesa del Rio On the main street, Tortuguero’s best budget option, with a filling,
between the dock and park entrance T2709-8131. soda-style menu. Breakfasts 1100–1600c, grilled
The best of the three Princesa locations in town, fish with sides 2200c.
with cabinas right on the riverside. Basic rooms are Soda Culebra At the main dock. Cheap fried
for one to three people; the nicest ones at the end chicken, casados and coffee (600c); it’s the
look out onto the lagoon. 2 best spot for a quick caffeine injection before
Cabinas Tortuguero Across from the Taberna setting off.
T2709-8114 or 8839-1200, Ecabinas
[email protected]. Rooms (all en suite Drinking and nightlife
with fans) are set in a lovely garden and food is
available at the restaurant, with an hour’s notice La Culebra Next to the main dock. This is the
(6am–6.30pm). 4 town’s most popular watering-hole: the riverfront
bar is loud and the dancefloor fills up with locals at
Eating night. Beer 750c.
Restaurante Princesa On the beachfront, behind
Tortuguero village offers good homely food, typically Souvenir Pura Vida. Though the mainly seafood
Caribbean, with wonderful fresh fish. The only menu is expensive, the beachside location and
disadvantage is that prices tend to be high: expect booming tropical rhythms make it a good spot to
to pay up to twice as much for a meal as you’d pay grab a beer (1000c).
in other parts of Costa Rica. Taberna Punto de Encuentro Riverside, 100m
Buddha Café Next to the I.C.E. building. A swanky east of the main dock. An alternative to La Culebra,
riverfront café with an overpriced Italian-style with pool tables and a large dancefloor looking out
524
 onto the river – great for sunset views, although By boat Coopertraca (4 boats daily) and Clic Clic
the music volume can detract from the surround- (5 boats daily) offer transport to La Pavona, and
ings. Cheap dishes are served from the kitchen and onwards to Cariari and San José, while Ruben
Cabinas Tropical also have rooms (2 ). Beer 1000c. Bananero offers daily boats to Moín. Many local tour
operators also arrange lancha trips south to Moín
Directory (from US$25 per person) – try Caiman/Pura Vida
tours across from the main dock.
Exchange There is no bank in Tortuguero, but

Costa Rica
in the high season supermarkets will offer cash Cahuita
advances for a fee.
Internet At the café across from the Paraíso
The tiny coastal village of CAHUITA,
Tropical dock (open May–Oct 11am–8pm; US$4/hr). 43km southeast of Limón, comprises
Medical care Ebais, across from the main dock, just two puddle-dotted, gravel-and-sand
serves as a clinic, but the doctor only visits once streets running parallel to the sea, inter-
sected by a few cross-streets. Few locals

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

a week.
Post office The correo is in the middle of the drive (bicycles are popular), so most of
village. the vehicles you see kicking up the dust
Telephones At Miss Junie’s restaurant, the central belong to visitors. Though the principal
Super Morpho supermarket, across from the I.C.E.
daylight activity in Cahuita is taking a
and outside Cabinas Aracari.
boat trip out to Parque Nacional Cahui-
ta’s coral reef to snorkel (see p.528), the
Moving on fairly empty stretches of sand along the
By air Nature Air and Sansa both have daily flights water make the beaches here perfect for
back to San José. relaxing and sun-bathing as well.
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525
 and laundry facilities; Turística Cahuita (T2755-
What to see and do 0071) sells the Tico Times. Both agencies, as well
as Cahuita Tours and El Parquecito, offer local
Cahuita’s main street runs from the trips and national park and snorkelling tours (from
national park entrance at Kelly Creek to US$15 per person).
the northern end of the village, marked
more or less by the football pitch. Accommodation
Beyond here it continues two or three
Costa Rica

kilometres north along Black-Sand Cahuita is popular with budget travellers, but it’s
Beach. The small park at the central not rock-bottom cheap. Groups get the best deal,
crossroads downtown is the focal point as most cabinas charge per room and have space
for at least three or four people. The centre of
of the village, where locals wait for buses
the village has scores of options, and there’s also
and catch up on recent gossip. accommodation along the long (3km or so) road
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

that runs along Playa Negra, though this area is

The beaches reputedly dodgy; solo women travellers may feel
It’s possible to swim on either of the more comfortable staying in town. Several camping
village’s two beaches, although neither options can be found in the vicinity, including the
is fantastic: the first 400m or so of the jungle grounds at the Puerto Vargas ranger station
narrow white-sand beach just south in the national park (along the trail and around the
point from the Kelly Creek station; see p.528).
of town is dangerous on account of
riptides, while Black-Sand Beach In the village
(Playa Negra), northwest of town, is Backpackers Dreams Across from Miss Edith’s
littered with driftwood, although you T2755-0174. A crumbling, ramshackle house with
can swim in some places. Sometimes the most basic rooms in town. 3
called Playa Vargas, the beach south Cabinas Arrecife On the seafront, just north of the
of Punta Cahuita in Parque Nacional police station T 2775-0081 or 8835-2940,
Cahuita is better for swimming than Wcabinasarrecife.com. A relaxed, backpacker-style
atmosphere with hammocks slung on the porch,
those in the village; however, it’s slightly
cheap, simply furnished rooms and
awkward to get to (see p.528). You can
snorkelling gear for hire. 4 –5
also surf at Cahuita; boards are avail- Cabinas Jenny On the beach, 50m beyond
able to rent from the Info Boutique next Caribbean Flavour T2755-0256 Wwww
to Super Safari supermarket, and next .geocities.com/cabinasjenny. Beautiful rooms with
to the police station. If you don’t fancy high wooden ceilings, sturdy beds, mosquito nets,
snorkelling, Cabinas Brigitte and Mr Big fans and wonderful sea views. 4 –5
J’s organize horse rides along the beach Linda’s Secret Garden Down the side street just
and jungle hikes (US$25–35), and all before Kelly Creek T2755-0327. A no-frills option
with large and basic non-smoking rooms and a
of the tour agencies in Cahuita offer
jungle garden. Singles 2 , doubles 3
combined Jeep trips to local villages and
nearby beaches (US$40). Playa Negra
Bello Horizonte T2755-0206. The best budget
Arrival and information lodging along the Playa Negra stretch, with ten
large and simple cabinas with kitchen, fridge, bath
By bus Buses stop outside Bar y Restaurante Vaz. and fan; the nicest ones are seaside, next to the
Current timetables are posted at the Mepe office upmarket Blue Spirit Cabinas. 4
there. Cabinas Brigitte Just behind Reggae Bar T 2755-
Tourist information The Costa Rican Caribbean 0053, Wwww.brigittecahuita.com. A cosy location
Info Guide (free, if you can find it), unfolds into with two cabinas and two rooms. Breakfast, internet
maps of the local area and a directory of accom- and laundry on site, and horses and bicycles
modation and businesses in Cahuita. Otherwise, available for hire. Rooms 4 , cabinas 5 –6
the only sources of information in the village itself Cabinas Florencia T2755-0124. Large, basic en-
are the tour companies: Mr Big J’s (T2755-0353), suite rooms rented by friendly locals, and an on-site
across from the main square, has a book exchange soda. Clean and safe. 4
526
Cabinas Iguana Past Cabinas Brigitte T2755-

treat yourself
0005, Wwww.cabinas-iguana.com. Lovely wood- Corleone Diagonally across
panelled cabinas on stilts, set back from the beach, from (and west of) ChaChaCha
and a main lodge with a big screened veranda, plus T2755-0341. A palm-roofed
laundry service, book exchange and small pool. pizzeria run by an Italian–Tican
Groups get better deals. 4 couple, Corleone features pies
with fresh local ingredients as
well as imported specials like
Eating

Costa Rica
Parmigiano cheese. Treats
Cahuita has plenty of places to eat fresh local food, like the Caribbean pizza with
with a surprisingly cosmopolitan selection. As with avocado and home-made
accommodation, prices are not low – an evening seafood ravioli are worth the splurge.
meal starts at around 2800c – and service tends to Pizza US$6–12, pasta US$8–12.
be laid-back: leave yourself lots of time to eat.

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

Restaurants Coco’s At the main junction in the town centre.
The Beach House 50m east of Dr. Bike’s. This This unavoidable bar and disco is the night-spot in
brightly painted bakery has yummy breakfasts Cahuita, with frequent live music, cheap beer and a
(2200c), including waffles and home-made bread, strong rum punch. Beer 1100c, punch 2800c.
although the portions are not overly generous. National Park Hotel By the park entrance at Kelly
Caribbean Flavour Next to El Parquecito. Cheap Creek. A rocking nightly disco in the high season.
eats in a central location, with friendly, laid-back Beer 1100c.
service. The reggae bar here also sells alcohol to Reggae Bar Attached to the Reggae Cabinas, Playa
take away. Breakfast 1600c, cheeseburger 1600c, Negra. The restaurant’s beachside location makes it
casado 2200c. a good place to grab a cold beer and enjoy the sea
ChaChaCha Diagonal to Corleone. Fantastic breeze. Beer US$2.50, cocktail from US$5.
gourmet cuisine – exotic salads and seafood – at
manageable prices, served in a pretty setting with Directory
fresh flowers and fairy lights. Cocktails 2200c,
mains 3600–6600c. Bicycle rental Bikes and scooters are available to
El Parquecito Behind the village park. A good rent from several places; try friendly Dr Bike’s (8am–
place for breakfast (2200–3600c), with fresh 6pm daily), diagonal to Coco’s, for the cheapest rates
juices, pancakes and French toast, and the best (bikes US$2.50/day, scooters US$35/day).
iced coffee (1600c) along the coast. Exchange Banco de Costa Rica (Mon–Fri 8am–
Exotica Sushi Next to Soda Tranquilo. A tiny 4pm), one block from the bus station in the Centro
eatery covered in twinkling lights, Exotica Comercial White Sand, has an ATM.
serves incredibly eclectic but beautifully prepared Internet At the CyberNet Café in Cabinas Palmar,
dishes: think both sushi and gourmet pitas. The Willie’s Tours (T2843-4700), or at Cabinas Brigitte
promotion platters are huge and filling. Roll 4400c, in Playa Negra.
pita meal 3800c, platter 5500c. Medical care Ebais medical clinic, across from
Soda Tranquilo Diagonally across from the bus the Centro Comercial Safari, south of the bus stop
station. One of the cheaper options in town; the (closed Tues, Sat & Sun).
location makes it a good spot to grab a boca while Police The guardía rural is on the last beach-bound
waiting for the bus. Bocas 1600c, casados 2200c. road at the north end of the village.
Vista de Mar By the park entrance at Kelly Creek. Post office Next door to the police station, the
Known to locals as “El Chines”, this barn-sized correo (technically Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm) keeps
restaurant has a vast menu featuring several erratic hours.
inexpensive rice-and-bean combos and Chinese
dishes. Mains 2800–5500c. Moving on
Drinking and nightlife By bus to: Limón (15 daily); San José (4 daily; 4hr).
A local bus runs from Cahuita to Puerto Viejo (15
Caribbean Tipico Across from Coco’s. The daily 6am–7pm; 40min) and continues on to Bribrí,
less popular of the two main bar/discos in town Sixaola and the Panamanian border. There is also a
(although it actually has the nicer balcony), with Limón–Manzanillo route that stops in Cahuita, with
equally loud music and erratic opening hours. 4–5 daily buses.
527
 Parque Nacional Perezoso, about 2km from the Kelly
Cahuita Creek entrance, or 5km from the Puerto
Vargas trailhead, is not always fordable.
PARQUE NACIONAL CAHUITA Similarly, at high tide the beach, Playa
(daily 8am–5pm; “pay what you want” Vargas, is impassable in places: ask at
if entering at Kelly Creek, US$10–15 the ranger station about marea, or tide,
at the Puerto Vargas entrance) is one schedules. Many snorkellers swim the
of the smallest protected areas in the
Costa Rica

200 to 500m from Puerto Vargas out

country, covering the wedge-shaped to the reef; again, ask about currents
piece of land from Punta Cahuita back before diving in. Camping (1 ) is
to the main highway and, crucially, the allowed near the Puerto Vargas puesto;
coral reef about 500m offshore. Every you must enter through this section of
tour operator in the area offers explora- the park to camp here.
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

tory snorkelling trips – with guided

assistance you will see the best of the Puerto Viejo de
reef and the animals that live here. On
land, Cahuita shelters the litoral, or Talamanca
coastal, rainforest, a lowland habitat of It’s surfing that really pulls the crowds
semi-mangroves and tall canopy cover to the languorous hamlet of PUERTO
which backs the white-sand beaches VIEJO DE TALAMANCA, offering
of Playa Vargas and Playa Cahuita. some of the most challenging waves in
Birds, including ibis and kingfishers, the country, the famous “Salsa Brava”.
are in residence, along with white-faced The village itself lies between the
(carablanca) and howler monkeys, coati, thick forested hills of the Talamanca
raccoons, sloths and snakes. mountains and the sea, where locals
The park has two entrances, one bathe and kids frolic with surfboards in
at Kelly Creek, at the southern end the waves. The main drag through the
of Cahuita village, and the other at centre, potholed and rough, is criss-
Puerto Vargas, 4km south of Cahuita. crossed by a few dirt streets and an
The park’s one trail (7km), skirting offshoot road that follows the shore.
the beach, is a very easy walk, with a As in Cahuita, many expats have been
path so wide it feels like a road. The Río drawn to Puerto Viejo and have set

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528
 up their own businesses (you’ll find
places offering health foods and New
Arrival and information
Age remedies); and like Cahuita, most By bus Buses from San José (via Limón and
locals are of Afro-Caribbean descent. In Cahuita) arrive across from Bar Maritza in the town
recent years, Puerto Viejo’s backpacker centre. Beware: the coast road around Puerto Viejo
and surf-party culture has created a is unpaved and very bumpy.
small drugs scene; as a result theft has Tourist information No official source, but the
village’s tour operators can give you advice and

Costa Rica
increased, but these robberies are always
maps. The most helpful are Puerto Viejo Adventures
opportunistic, not violent.
& Tours and ATEC (see box, p.530).

What to see and do Accommodation

In a town where surfboards dominate Accommodation in the village consists of a range

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

both the roads and the beaches, it of hotels and cabinas, the cheapest of which have
is hard to spend time here without cold showers and no internet access.
hitting the waves; the best surf is from Cabinas Lika On the street behind the bank
December to March and July to August. T2750-0209. A simple, hammock-strewn option
with a garden kitchen and secure parking.
There are plenty of places to rent
Discounts for groups and in low season. 4
boards and book lessons (see p.530)
Cabinas Oro 75m south of Baba Yaga T 2750-
and the surf ranges from beginner 0469. Oro offers some of the cheapest lodging in
waves on Playa Negra to the advanced, town, with four basic rooms (en suite with fan). 2
reef-side break of Salsa Brava; group Casa de Rolando 75m south of Soda Miss Sam’s
lessons are the cheapest way to go. The T2750-0339. Spotless, family-run cabinas and
surf crowds ensure a hot, young night- mini-apartments set in lovely gardens. 4
life, which seems to be the focus of Hotel Puerto Viejo Next to Baba Yaga T2750-0620.
many backpackers here. Long-running hostel with plain wooden cabinas, most
with shared bath, and a large communal kitchen.
While there are no malls in the vicinity,
Always full of surfers and young people; owner Kurt
and shopping here consists mainly of speaks English and rents out surfboards. 2
expensive, touristy boutiques, the run of Kaya’s Place Playa Negra, 200m north of town
market stalls along El Parquecito Cove T2750-0690, Wwww.kayasplace.com. A laid-back
offers jewellery and handmade crafts hotel on the beach, with a variety of rustic-chic
– well worth a browse. rooms. 5 –8

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529
 tour operators in puerto viejo
ATEC On the main road, opposite Café Viejo W www.ateccr.org. A local organization
offering cultural trips and experiences, from cooking classes to exploring the nearby
indigenous reserve. See box opposite, for further information.
Aventuras Bravas On the main road, diagonal from Stanford’s, and also at Rocking
J’s T 2750-2000, W www.aventurasbravas.com. Offers an exhaustive list of tours
and activities, including surf lessons (group US$30–40) kayak rentals (US$20/day)
Costa Rica

and horseriding trips; good English spoken. Daily 8am–7pm.

Cut Bak On the main road, across from Elena Brown’s T 2851-9645. Surf rentals,
repairs and lessons (US$40 for 2hr 30min). The beachside cabinas (2 ), camping
(1 ) and De Paso restaurant (11am–midnight) are all within spitting distance of the
surf.
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

Luca’s Surf School On the main road by Amimodo’s T 2750-0620,

E [email protected]. Budget surf tours, lessons (US$35/2hr) and rentals
(US$10/day) – although the prices may change daily. Group discounts available.
Daily 7am–7pm.
Puerto Viejo Adventures & Tours Next to Cabinas Jacaranda T2750-0411/0440,
Wwww.ptoviejotours.com. Offers rafting, horseriding, snorkelling and birdwatching
tours. They also have an internet café and phones.
Salsa Brava Next to Baba Yaga T2750-0661. One of the plushest surf shops in
town, with both lessons (private; US$50/2hr) and rentals (US$20/day). Daily 9am–
1pm & 2–7.30pm.

Las Olas On the main road, past the Salsa Brava locations – as well as tasty sandwiches, crepes
restaurant or before Cut Bak T 2750-0424, and breakfast. Rooms (4 ), bike rental and laundry
E [email protected]. No-frills beachfront rooms service also available.
with bath and fan, and a soda on site. Camping Cafelito Kiré On the main road, 100m before
facilities also available. Camping 1 , doubles 3 Tuanis Bikes. A German bakery with good breakfast,
Rocking J’s On the main road, 100m past Tuanis including fresh croissants (600c). Coffee 400c,
Bikes T2750-0657, Wwww.rockingjs breakfast plate 1500c.
.com. A maze of facilities including hammocks Jammin 100m east of the bus stop. A central
(1 ), camping (1 ), shared cabinas (2 ), private “Juice and Jerk Joint” decked out in Rasta colours,
rooms (4 ) and a treehouse (5 ). The beachside serving excellent smoothies (1100c), jerk chicken
compound, perennially busy with backpackers, and johnny cakes (350c); good veggie options also
includes a large garden, chill-out areas, and (a available (veggie curry 3300c)
not-so-cheap) restaurant. Tours and rentals can be Mare Nostrum On the main road, next to
organized. Chile Rojo. The best budget seafood spot in
town, with an overwhelmingly large menu; the fish
Eating in sauce (from 3900c), seafood paella (4400c) and
sangria are house specialities.
Puerto Viejo has a surprisingly cosmopolitan Mighty Rivers Next to Sunset Sports Bar. The
range of places to eat. Good, traditional Creole, place for snacks and treats, with home-made
vegetarian, Italian and Thai cooking, as well as the waffles (2200c–3300c) and ice cream; the locally
obvious seafood options, can be found alongside cultivated macadamia milkshakes (1100c) are
the cheaper sodas and bakeries here; expect to pay delicious.
upwards of 1600c for meals. The Mission Next to Mighty Rivers. An excellent
Beach Hut On the main road just before Stanford’s. budget choice. The Caribbean buffet features good
A road-and-beachside shack, serving English- casados (2200c), burgers (1100c) and speciality
style fry-up breakfasts (2200c), burgers, and good curries (4400c). Ocean-front seating available
stuffed baguettes for lunch (from 1600c). across the road.
Café Rico Opposite Cabinas Casa Verde T 2750- Pan Pay On the seafront across from the police
0510. A laid-back café serving the best coffee in station. A popular breakfast spot with well-priced
town – import grade, and thus pricier than other coffee (300c) and cakes, delicious Spanish tortillas
530
and tasty take-away sandwiches. Baguette 2200c, blaring music runs from reggae to dancehall to
breakfast 2200c. funk. Beer 1100c.
Soda Miss Sam’s Three blocks back from the Maritza’s Bar & Restaurant 50m east of the
seafront, past Baba Yaga. Caribbean dishes at bus stop. Across from the beach, with indoor and
reasonable prices, especially the rice and bean outdoor seating, this place has a DJ or live music
combos (1600c). What the place lacks in ambience, on most nights. Beer 1100c.
it makes up for in price and quality (though the Stanford’s Just east of the main street. Restaurant
service is not speedy). and bar with a large disco – you can dance to the

Costa Rica
Soda Isma On the main road, 150m east of the sound of reggae and waves crashing against the
bank. Cheerful Caribbean home-cooking served on shore. The food in the upstairs restaurant is a bit of
a small wooden porch in the centre of town. Rice a splurge, but the pool table and great sea views
and beans 2200c. make it a worthy spot for a cold beer, while the club
Veronica’s Place Behind Aventuras Bravas. The only downstairs favours salsa and reggae beats. Beer
strictly vegetarian place in town, offering reasonably 1100c, bocas 1100–2200c.

Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

priced macrobiotic dishes (lunch 2800c). Three bright
en-suite rooms and two single rooms (females only) Directory
also available (singles 2 , doubles 3 ).
Bicycle rental Several rental shops are in town
Drinking and nightlife – try Tuanis Bicycles on the road to Manzanillo,
just before Rocking J’s (7.30am–6pm daily;
Puerto Viejo has the best backpacker nightlife on US$4/24hr). Hotels and cabinas also rent out
the east coast, particularly in the high season. bikes (US$3–6/day).
Essentially, there’s a designated popular hangout Exchange Bank of Costa Rica (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm;
for each night of the week. Visa only), across from the Super Puerto Viejo, has
an office and ATM. Mastercard users can obtain
Bars and clubs cash advances at Cabinas Los Almendros
Baba Yaga 50m north of Hotel Puerto Viejo. A (opposite Jammin) for a small fee.
Rastafied joint with a simple (cheap) bar offering Internet At the ATEC office on the main road (see
plenty of drink promotions and a massive sound opposite), and in the Jungle Café, next to Pizzeria
system. On reggae night (Sun) and ladies’ night Boruca and behind Café Viejo.
(Tues), the crowds spill out onto the street. Medical care Two clinics in the area: Sunimedica
E-Z Times One block south of the police station. A (T52750-0079), next to the correo, and the larger
chilled-out bar and pizzeria; not the cheapest, but Hone Creek Clinic (T2756-8022), 5km north of
the treehouse setting and ambient music make it town at El Cruce. Treatment can also be sought at
good value. There’s a good selection of beer, rum the Farmacia Amiga, located in the small commer-
and cocktails, and games to play if the weather’s cial centre next to the post office and Sunimedica
acting up. Beer 1100–1600c. clinic.
Johnny’s Place Next to Pan Pay. The best place for Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 8am–noon &
late-night dancing in town, with a large waterfront 1–5.30pm) is in the small commercial centre two
seating area and massive indoor dancefloor; the blocks back from the seafront.

ATEC AND THE KÛkÖldi reserve

Skirted by the Kéköldi Reserve (W www.kekoldi.org), inhabited by about two
hundred Bribrí and Cabécar peoples, Puerto Viejo retains strong links with
indigenous culture. The Asociación Talamanqueña de Ecoturismo y Conservación,
or ATEC, is a grassroots organization set up by members of the local community.
As well as being able to tell you where to buy locally made products, the group
arranges some of the most interesting tours in Costa Rica. Day-trips to the reserve
cost US$18–35, and include a guided hike and lunch; these can also be extended
(at a cost) for overnight stays. Other activities include a Caribbean cooking class
(US$20/2hr) and tour of an organic chocolate farm (US$35/4hr with snack and
lunch). If you’re spending a few days in the region, an ATEC-arranged trip is a must
– contact the Puerto Viejo office (T2750-0191; on the main street, 100m west of
Chile Rojo) at least one day in advance.

531
 .greencoast.com/aquamor.htm), offers diving,
Moving on snorkelling and kayaking trips, PADI courses and
equipment rental, (kayak US$6/hr, boogie board
By bus to: Cahuita (15 daily; 40min); Manzanillo (5
US$4/hr, snorkelling gear US$3/hr).
daily; 45min); Puerto Limón (15 daily; 2hr 30min–
The Talamanca Dolphin Foundation (T 2759-9115,
3hr), San José (4 daily; 4hr 30min–5hr).
Wwww.dolphinlink.org) offers boat tours as part of
their research and protection programmes (US$35
South to Manzanillo per person; minimum two people).
Costa Rica

The 12km of coast between Puerto Viejo

and MANZANILLO village – dotted by Accommodation
the tiny hamlets of Playa Cocles, Playa
Prices in this area are higher than in Puerto Viejo,
Chiquita, Punta Uva and Punta Mona
but couples and loners might enjoy the tranquillity
– is one of the most beautiful stretches and the opportunity to splash out on accommoda-
in the country. Though not spectacular
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast

tion for a few days.

for swimming, the beaches are nonethe- Cabinas Bucus Manzanillo T2759-9143,
less exceedingly picturesque. If you don’t [email protected]. Four pristine double
want to pay to stay in the area, the whole rooms with wooden shutters and balconies, backing
stretch can be reached by bicycle from on to jungle. Run by local guide Omar and his
Puerto Viejo (1–2hr); a cycle tour of the German wife Melte, who lead informative jungle
tours (in Spanish and English) and rent snorkelling
beaches can easily be done as a day-trip.
equipment and rubber boots. 5
The little-visited but fascinating Refugio Cabinas Faya Lobi Manzanillo T2759-9167,
Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca- Wwww.cabinasfayalobi.com. Four rooms in a large,
Manzanillo, bordering the Río Sixaola stucco house that looks out on the jungle. There’s a
and the international frontier with shared kitchen, porches and hammocks. 4
Panama, incorporates the small hamlets Cabinas Manzanillo Manzanillo T2759-9033
of Gandoca and Manzanillo and covers or 8839-8386. New, concrete cabinas with eight
fifty square kilometres of land and a rooms, all with fan, en-suite bath and cable TV; the
upstairs rooms have better jungle views. Laundry
similar area of sea. It was established to
service, bike rental and tours also organized. 5
protect some of Costa Rica’s last few coral Miraflores Playa Chiquita T 2750-0038, Wwww
reefs, of which Punta Uva is the most .mirafloreslodge.com. Rustic, comfortable lodge
accessible. You can snorkel here, or dive opposite the beach. The upstairs rooms are brighter
(see p.530 for tour operator informa- – with high bamboo ceilings – and there’s an
tion). Playa Manzanillo also has a large outside breakfast area. The owner has excellent
shelf of coral reef just offshore, which contacts with local Kéköldi Bribrí communities and
teems with marine life and offers some runs imaginative tours. 5 –7
Pangea Manzanillo T2759-9204, Epangea
of the best snorkelling in Costa Rica.
@racsa.co.cr. Three beautifully decorated rooms
The village itself is small and charming, with private bath and breakfast included, set in a
with stunning beaches, laid-back locals tropical garden. 6
and a couple of great places to eat and
hang out. Eating and drinking
Arrival and information Batik Café Next to MINAE (the office of the Ministry
of the Environment and Energy), Manzanillo. A funky
By bus Manzanillo can only be accessed on the road little café, selling local arts and crafts and offering a
from Puerto Viejo. There are five daily buses that simple menu (1100–4400c). Camping facilities also
run from Puerto Limón, via Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. available (T2759-9151; 1 ).
Cycling is also an option, and will take about an hour Maxi’s Manzanillo. Large upstairs restaurant with
and a half; the road runs alongside the beaches. great views over the beach and renowned grilled
Internet Available at Inet in Manzanillo’s mini- seafood. The portions are expensive but enormous,
centre (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm). so good for sharing, or the soda downstairs is a
Tour operators Aquamor, opposite the Soda bit cheaper. Mains 3300–11,000c. Cabinas also
Rinconcito Alegre (T2759-9012, Wwww available (5 –7 ).
532
 into panama: Sixaola
The Sixaola–Guabito border is open daily from 7am to 6pm Panama time (one
hour ahead of Costa Rica). Citizens of some nationalities (US, Canada and EU) may
require a tourist card (US$5) to enter Panama (valid for 30 days); the Panamanian
consulate in San José issues them, as does the San José office of Copa, the
Panamanian airline. Immigration requirements often change; check with the
Panamanian consulate. When entering Costa Rica here, you will need a copy of

Costa Rica
your onward or return ticket (to prove you are eventually leaving).
In Panama there’s nowhere decent to stay before you get to Bocas del Toro (see
p.662) – leave time to look for a hotel once you’re there, and be aware that bus
and boat connections can be tricky. Water connections to Bocas can be made at
Changuinola (20km) or Almirante (35km; 1hr 30min).

The Central Pacific

The Central
Soda La Playa Next to Maxi’s, Manzanillo. A
typical soda serving good-value breakfasts (1600c),
sandwiches (1100c) and casados (2200c).
Soda El Rinconcito Alegre Diagonal to
Aquamor, Manzanillo. The cheapest food in Pacific
town, with a handy takeaway service for beach
trips. Sandwiches from 830c, pancakes 1100c, From cool, undulating forests to rolling
spaghetti 1600c. waves and scorching sands, the physcial
Vida Sana Across from Playa Chiquita Lodge. attributes of the Central Pacific region
Halfway along the road between Puerto Viejo and are some of the most varied and highly
Manzanillo, this is a great spot for a filling breakfast
regarded in the country. Every year
or tasty ice cream (1100–3900c).
thousands of travellers make the rugged,
170km trek northwest from San José
Moving on to the Monteverde and Santa Elena
By bus to: Puerto Limón (daily 5am, 7am, 8.30am, reserves, to meander on foot through
10.30am, 12.45pm, 5.15pm; 1hr 40min),: San José some of the Americas’ last remaining
(daily 7am; 4hr 30min). pristine cloudforest or to take part in a
high-adrenaline canopy tour, for which
Bribrí the area is famous. Meanwhile, only a
From a few kilometres north of hundred or so kilometres away, facing
Puerto Viejo the paved road (Hwy-36) out onto the Pacific, Jacó is perhaps
continues inland to BRIBRÍ, about the most popular surf destination in
10km southwest, arching over the Costa Rica. With consistent, mid-sized
Talamancan foothills with views of waves, it’s a great place for beginners
the green valleys stretching ahead to and anyone looking to brush up on
Panama. This is banana country, with their technique. Further south, still on
little to see even in Bribrí itself, which the coast, the Parque Nacional Manuel
is largely devoted to administering the Antonio draws visitors eager to walk
affairs of indigenous reserves in the its trails in search of monkeys and rare
Talamanca mountains. Bribrí does, birds, and discover the park’s excep-
however, have a Banco Nacional (Mon– tional secluded beaches.
Fri 8.30am–4pm), which has an ATM Buses to the region from San José
and changes money and traveller’s are reliable and cheap, and, with a
cheques. Carrying on south from here bit of organization, it is easy to travel
will lead you to the Sixaola–Guabito without doubling back to the capital.
border crossing, 34km along a stretch Be prepared, though, for some “roads”
of pot-holed road. of startlingly poor quality. In particular,
533
 the final 35km stretch to Monteverde boast more than four hundred different
will astound, although as much for the species of the flower, including the
scenery as the off-roading. Even in the world’s smallest. February is the best
dry season anything but a 4WD will month to go to see them in bloom;
struggle if you’re driving. otherwise, it’s probably only worth the
money for real enthusiasts.
Santa Elena
Costa Rica

The hub of the Monteverde region, and Reserva Santa Elena

the base for most trips and tours into The Reserva Santa Elena (daily
the surrounding cloudforest, SANTA 7am–4pm; US$12; T 2645-5390,
ELENA is one of the most visited W www.monteverdeinfo.com/reserve),
settlements in Costa Rica, with all the 6km northeast of the village of Santa
practical facilities a weary traveller Elena, is an area of exceptional natural
The Central Pacific

could hope for. Once sleepy, the little beauty, and offers a true glimpse of the
community is growing rapidly, despite rich biodiversity of the cloudforest.
the best efforts of the local commu- Established in 1992, the park strives to
nity, and you may be staggered by the be self-funding, assisted by donations
noise created by the construction sites and revenue from entrance fees, and
and work vehicles, which chug through gives a percentage of its profits to local
town towards Monteverde. schools. Much of the maintenance and
building projects depend on volun-
What to see and do teers, usually foreign students. The
trails within are highly rewarding for
You’ll soon have Santa Elena staked the keen-sighted walker, especially
out: the centre of town is basically three early in the morning, before visitors
streets in a triangle, amongst which really start to pile in. You can hike with
sit a plethora of hostels, cafés and tour or without a guide, though the guided
agencies. The real action is outside the nature walks (7.30am, 11.30am &
town, in the form of forest tours, wildlife 7pm, from the visitors’ centre; US$15)
adventures and the Reserva Santa Elena are highly recommended. There are
itself. boots for rent and information about
the trails at the visitors’ centre at the
Orchid Gardens entrance to the park.
The Orchid Gardens (daily 9am–5pm;
US$8), in the centre of Santa Elena, Canopy tours
Although the reserves of Monteverde
travel tips: and Santa Elena still pull in the region’s
monteverde REGION biggest crowds, many people now visit
the region purely to experience one
Getting to the Santa Elena/
Monteverde region independently
of its adrenaline-inducing canopy
from San José, especially in the dry tours. Several agencies in town can
season, entails some pre-planning. organize tours (see box, p.536), taking
Demand for the two daily buses adrenalin�-junkies into the parks to
is high, and you may need to buy swing from zip lines hundreds of feet
your ticket a few days in advance. in the air, amid the canopy layers.
Once you arrive, buy your return These are thrilling, but know that if
ticket immediately. There’s less
you’ve come to appreciate the area’s
demand for bus seats travelling from
Puntarenas, and you should be able wonderful wildlife, your best options
to get away with not booking. are still the guided walks and trails
within the parks.
534
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The Central Pacific Costa Rica

535
 Wildlife exhibits process with the highly recommended
Just outside Santa Elena, on the road to Don Juan Coffee Tour (adults US$25,
the Monteverde reserve, the Serpen- students US$18, including transfers;
tario (daily 9am–10pm; US$9, students tours twice daily, check at Pensión
US$7, tickets valid for multiple entries; Santa Elena for times; T 2645-7100),
T 2645-5238) is one of many wildlife on the road out to Tilarán. You get to
showcases in the region, with a number see – and participate in – each phase of
of unnerving snakes and a few other the production of the country’s highly
Costa Rica

reptiles in residence, all well displayed profitable export crop on this well-
with information panels. It’s question- managed organic farm.
able value for money – if you go, visit
late in the afternoon, when the serpents Arrival and information
tend to be a little more active. The
The Central Pacific

Ranario (9am–8.30pm; US$9, students By bus Buses arrive in Santa Elena opposite the
US$7, tickets valid for multiple entries; Banco Nacional at the northern apex of the triangle.
The bus station itself is within five steps of the stop,
T 2645-6320), signposted off the other
round the corner in the direction of the Jiménez
side of the road, displays a fascinating Bakery.
array of colourful frogs and other By car Driving from San José to Santa Elena takes
amphibians. In this case, it’s well worth about four hours via the Interamericana – this,
making a couple of visits – one during the Sardinal route, takes the Interamericana north
the day and one at night – as species from Puntarenas towards Liberia, branching off at
emerge at different times of day. Both the Rancho Grande turning to Monteverde. From
facilities include a guided tour in the Tilarán, near Laguna de Arenal, the road (40km) is
price of admission. often very rough, but provides spectacular views
over the Laguna de Arenal and Volcán Arenal (see
p.570). Whichever route you take, you’ll need 4WD
Don Juan Coffee Tour in the rainy season, when some agencies refuse to
The region of Monteverde is one of rent regular cars for the trip. It is worth checking
Costa Rica’s important coffee-producing that your hotel has parking as it is impossible to
regions, and you can learn all about the park in the street once you arrive.

tour operators in santa elena

Several operators in town offer a variety of excursions. For the canopy tours, rates
vary very little between companies; with student ID you can save US$10 or so.
Canopy tours
Skytrek Next to the bus station T2645-5238, W www.skytrek.com. Offers one of
the most popular canopy tours (7.30am–3pm; 2hr 30min; US$40), with eleven high-
tension cables, including one that’s an incredible 770m. Transportation to the site
– 3km up the road to the Santa Elena reserve – is not included in the price, but can
be arranged for a small extra fee.
Selvatura Opposite the bus stop T2645-5929, Wwww.selvatura.com. Another
reliable operator with 3km of trails and 14 cable runs, and a slightly lower pricing
scheme than Skytrek (US$37).
Other
Desafío Expeditions Opposite the supermarket T 2645-5874, Wwww
.monteverdetours.com. Efficient and friendly, they specialize in horseback tours,
including a 2hr ride through forest and farmland (US$20) and a day-trip to the San
Luís waterfalls that also involves some hiking (US$49). They can also organize tours
of up to a week in different parts of the country, canyoning trips (US$49) and a
transfer to La Fortuna (4–5hr; see p.569) that involves some scenic riding as well as
the usual vehicle and boat transfer.

536
Tourist information Although there are plenty wooden hotel at the back of a centrally located
of tour operators in town (see box opposite), it is internet café. The rooms facing the back are quieter
definitely worth visiting the staff at the Pensión than those at the front; almost all lead off a bright
Santa Elena, next to the Banco Nacional, who offer kitchen area. 1 –3
excellent impartial tourist information to everyone, Pensión Colibrí 50m back from the main road
not just guests, and may even be able to help you behind Pensión Santa Elena T2645-5682. A
save a few dollars by booking things through them. charming Tico family hand-constructed this pretty
Camera de Empresarios Turisticos y Afines, on the and rather chintzy little hostel. Rooms are clean and

Costa Rica
corner as you enter Santa Elena (T2645-5027 well maintained, and the building’s location helps
e [email protected]), also has a friendly, dull the noise of the relentless motorbikes. Watch
well-informed staff that can provide you with infor- your step on the staircase. 4
mation on all activities in the area. Pensión Santa Elena Next to the Banco
Nacional T 2645-5051, W www.pension
Accommodation santaelena.com. All types of rooms – from shared

The Central Pacific

dorm to private en suite – at excellent rates, along
All the region’s cheapest accommodation is in with a communal kitchen, free internet and the
Santa Elena. Almost all places offer tourist informa- most knowledgable employees in town. Booking
tion, and most can book tours (for which they will in advance is a must. Check here before you book
receive commission). In the dry months you should any tours – they can do it for you, often for signifi-
book a room in advance; in the wet season you can cantly cheaper than the tour offices. Camping 1 ,
just turn up. Prices are soaring all the time – be dorms 2 , doubles 4
warned that they may already have increased since Pensión El Tucán At the bottom of the triangle on
the time of writing. the way to Cerro Plano T2645-5017. One of Santa
Cabinas Eddy Along the main road into town from Elena’s longest-standing budget hostels, El Tucán
San Jose, just before the town entrance T 2645- definitely has a certain charm, though beware the
6635, Wwww.cabinas-eddy.com. Although this traffic noise. Very small but cosy wooden rooms
hostel has taken a rather aggressive marketing and shared hot-water baths; classier rooms are in
approach – stationing pushy girls at the bus stop cabins with private bath and balcony. 2
– it is a reasonable option. Both dorms and private Tina’s Casitas Along the dirt road behind the
rooms are cheap, bright and clean, with all mod- supermarket T2645-5641 or 8820-4821, Wwww
cons, including free internet. The only downside is .tinascasitas.de. These simple cabinas are a good
the walk along the main highway to get there, and budget option. Surrounding a shared kitchen and
the view of a rather unattractive concrete lot from with views of the gulf of Nicoya, all rooms make
the front rooms. 2 fine use of attractive natural woods, and some have
Cabinas Vista al Golfo A 15min walk from the private hot-water baths. Note that the rooms away
town centre, up the hill behind the supermarket from the office are of distinctly worse quality, so
T 2645-6321/9917, Wwww.cabinasvistaalgolfo check where your room is. 2 –4
.com. This hotel offers the best value in the area.
The atmosphere is relaxed, with hammocks and Eating
a well-equipped kitchen, and the bedrooms bright
and clean. The upstairs terrace boasts stunning El Campesino Down the hill from Desafio Tours
views of the Gulf of Nicoya. Book in advance in the towards Cerro Plano T2645-6883. Homely little
dry season. 2 –4 place run by an expansive Tico and his young son.
Cabinas El Pueblo Down a dirt track behind the The decor is engagingly quirky, with nautical murals
supermarket T2645-5273/6192, Wwww and stuffed toys hanging from the ceiling. Flavour-
.cabinaselpueblo.com. Attractive little hostel just some and filling mains (mostly steaks and seafood)
far away enough from the centre to miss traffic run 3500–6000c, so go with an appetite.
noise. Reasonably priced rooms are pleasant and Mar Y Tierra Opposite the bus station. The attrac-
light if a bit basic, and rates include breakfast and tive view of the square and the tasty food (the
hammocks. Very good tourist info on offer, but like seafood linguine is excellent) at Mar Y Tierra are
many places El Pueblo takes a commission for just about enough to compensate for the staff’s
booking tours. 3 superior attitude. A decent selection of mains fall
Hotel Camino Verde Opposite the bus station between 3000c and 5000c.
T 2645-6296, Wwww.exploringmonteverde Morpho’s Opposite the Supermontro
.com. Remarkably cheap, basic rooms (both dorms supermarket. Serving easily the best food
and private, with shared or private bath) in a little in Santa Elena, Morpho’s offers such dishes as
537
 corvina al aguacate (sea bass in avocado sauce), Fortuna and Arénal (although a much quicker and
flavoursome steaks and sumptuous desserts. It’s more pleasant option is the boat-jeep-boat transfer
very atmospheric in the evening, though you will – see box, p.572). It is quicker and easier to travel
wait for a table. Beware the rising prices (mains into Nicoya and Guanacaste from Puntarenas.
3500–6000c). By shuttle A colectivo makes the return trip from
Panadería Jiménez Opposite the bus station, they Santa Elena to Monteverde (30min) at 6.45am,
offer a mouthwatering selection of sandwiches 7.45am, 11am, noon, 2pm & 4pm. Schedules are
and high-calorie pastries (250–2000c) ideal for likely to change, however, so check at the Pensión
Costa Rica

picnics or in the event you just can’t face more rice Santa Elena for current times.
and beans. By taxi Taxis are easy to get hold of en route
Restaurante Maravilla Next to Panadería or through your hotel. Trips from Santa Elena to
Jiménez T 2645-6623. The perfect spot for an Monteverde should cost in the region of US$6.
early breakfast, this little soda offers gallo pinto for
1500c. For dinner, traditional casados and arroz con Cerro Plano
The Central Pacific

whatever (6000–10,000c) are served alongside fish

dishes, burgers, spaghetti and delicious naturales. The CERRO PLANO effectively
Restaurante Marquez At the northern point of the encompasses the five-kilometre stretch
triangle, next to Pura Vida Internet T2645-5918. between Santa Elena and Monteverde.
This pretty seafood restaurant is welcoming and Leaving Santa Elena, the road twists
fairly priced, with some very tasty dishes (mains and turns all the way to the Monteverde
4000–6000c). The staff is as charming as the views reserve entrance, offering some unfor-
out the big open window at the back. Closed in the gettable views en route, as well as
afternoon between lunch and dinner.
some natural diversions and excellent
restaurants. Although the distance is
Drinking and nightlife easily walkable, the quantity of traffic
Bar Amigos Behind the Camino Verde hotel. This
can result in a mudbath or dustbath
typical Tico nightclub, complete with disco balls, depending on the season, and the road’s
thudding basslines and a huge dancefloor, could steep incline can be off-putting year-
be described as “so bad it’s good”. The drunken round. Hitching on the road is easy, and
brawls that frequently occur at the end of the night the frequent buses to and from Santa
just add to the flavour. National beers 830c. Elena and the reserve are an easy way
Bohemios In the Tree House complex opposite the to save your legs.
bus station T2645-5750. When will you ever see
another bar built around a living tree? Good pizza
(3000–4500c) and live music, although the beer’s
What to see and do
a bit pricey.
The Monteverde region offers an
impressive array of activities. The five
Directory kilometres between Santa Elena and
Exchange Banco Nacional, at the northern apex of Monteverde towns alone are home to a
the triangle, has a Cirrus/MC/Visa/Plus ATM. butterfly garden, another smaller forest
Internet At Pura Vida, opposite the bank, for reserve and a surprisingly interesting
US$3/hr. museum devoted to bats.
Laundry At Pura Vida, opposite the bank – US$7
for as much as you can stuff into a huge plastic Butterfly Garden
bag.
The Butterfly Garden (daily 9.30am–
4pm; US$8, students US$6, kids US$3;
Moving on T 2645-5512) provides a fine opportu-
By bus to: Monteverde (5 daily; 30min); Puntarenas
nity to walk among the butterfly species
(3 daily; 3hr); San Jose (2 daily; 5hr); Tilarán (2 from Costa Rica’s varying climatic
daily; 3hr). Travelling to all other destinations is regions. It’s best to arrive between 10am
difficult – you get a bus to the Interamericana and and 2pm, as the butterflies are most
hitch from there. From Tilarán there are buses to La active at these hours. This said, the
538
four butterfly farms and unimpressive typical Tican and Argentine lunches
natural history museum will likely only (2500–4000c).
inspire the most devoted butterfly fans.
It’s a short taxi ride (roughly 10min) off Eating
the main road.
The following restaurants are listed in order of
distance from Santa Elena along the main road.
Children’s Eternal Rain
Bear in the mind that you will definitely have

Costa Rica
Forest deserved your delicious meal if you choose to walk
A small private reserve, the Children’s – although not a great distance, the road is an
Eternal Rain Forest, or Bosque Eterño impressive uphill climb.
de los Niños (T 2645-5554, w www Flor de Vida 5min from Santa Elena, via taxi. A
.acmcr.org/reserve_rainforest.htm), close relaxed vegetarian café and restaurant with smart
to the Monteverde settlement, offers decor offering both snacks and more substantial,

The Central Pacific

a smaller-scale opportunity to see the international fare (try the delicious vegetable stir-
landscape for which the region is famous. fry, 3000c). Nice forest views through the windows.
Moon Shiva 7min from Santa Elena, via taxi
During the day, visitors are only permitted
T 2645-6270, W www.moonshiva.com.
along the Bajo El Tigre trail (daily from
Restaurant renowned as much for its nightly live
8am, last entrance at 4.30pm, reserve music as for its delicious Israeli/Mediterranean
closes at dusk; US$5), which is physically menu (mains 4000–5000c). The owner has just
separated from the rest of the reserve. It is opened a bar downstairs boasting an international
a short, easy trek at lower elevations than beer menu and good cocktails (US$4), with the
in the cloudforest reserves with great kind of trendy interior design you might find in
views out to the Golfo de Nicoya: sunsets Marrakech or SoHo.
from here can be spectacular. Steak House and Pizza D’Kary 10min from Santa
For a slightly different experience, you Elena, via taxi T2645-6774. Cerro Plano’s best
pizza joint, and the steak isn’t bad either, though
can take one of the reserve’s twilight
it will cost you more than you would like (pizza
walks (daily 5.30pm; 2hr; US$22, from 5000c, steak from 6000c). However, both are
including transfers). Although the route delicious, and the authentic steakhouse atmosphere
never strays too far from civilization, is worth experiencing.
the informative guided tour gives you Sabores Just off the main road, along the turn-off
a good chance of seeing a variety of to the Butterfly Garden T2645-6174. Come here
nocturnal animals, including porcu- for the ice cream to end all ice cream. Sabores is
pines, tarantulas, armadillos, agoutis, an institution in the area, and its sundaes (1000c)
sloths and a marvellous variety of insects and iced coffees shouldn’t be missed.
and roosting birds. The trail begins just
before the cheese factory (see p.540). Monteverde
The mountainous, tropical MONTE�
The Bat Museum VERDE region is one of the most
The Bat Museum (daily 8.30am–9.30pm; visited parts of Costa Rica, thanks to
US$8, students US$6, children under its astounding natural beauty. Home to
6 free; T 2645 6566, E paseodestella several private nature reserves, including
@gmail.com), situated next to Stella’s the famous Reserva Biológica Bosque
bakery fifteen minutes from Santa Elena Nuboso Monteverde, the district’s
along the road to Monteverde, is well terrain – from semi-dwarf stunted forest
known for its interesting natural exhibits, to thick, bearded cloudforest – rarely
multimedia presentations, and for fails to impress. Meanwhile, the area is
reversing day and night in the viewing of cultural interest as well – its namesake
gallery so that the nocturnal beings are villge, the settlement of Monteverde, is
up and about for day-time visitors. It also a small Quaker community established
houses the excellent Café Caburé, serving in the 1950s. Although integrated into
539
 Costa Rican society, many of the Quakers is nonetheless a mecca for nature-lovers
still make a living from dairy farming, and an essential stop during any trip to
producing the region’s distinctive cheese. Costa Rica.
The reserve runs excellent guided
What to see and do walks (7.30am sharp, or 7.30am and 8am
if demand is high; 10-person max per
Roaming Monteverde’s cloudforest is the time – try to arrange in advance through
highlight for most visitors, though there Pensión Santa Elena (see p.537); 2–3hr;
Costa Rica

are a handful of other attractions in the US$15, plus the US$12 entrance fee).
area as well, including some smaller Seemingly rather pricey, the guides are
forest reserves, a cheese factory, a bat actually good value for money, and the
museum and, of course, canopy tours experience educational. You can also
(see p.536 for suggested operators). walk the trails without a guide – they are
The Central Pacific

clearly marked, and you can get maps

Reserva Biológica Bosque and interpretive booklets at the reserve
Nuboso Monteverde office – though you’re almost certain to
The world-renowned Reserva Biológica see less. Temperatures are cool (15° or
Bosque Nuboso Monteverde, or 16°C). Be sure to carry an umbrella, light
Monteverde Cloudforest Reserve (daily rain gear, binoculars and insect repellent.
7am–4pm; US$12, students US$6; It’s just about possible to get away without
T 2645-5122, W www.cct.or.cr), protects rubber boots in the dry season, but you
the last sizeable pockets of primary will most definitely need them in the wet.
cloudforest in Mesoamerica. Stretching The reserve office rents both boots and
over 105 square kilometres, it supports binoculars (US$1.50), as do some hotels.
six different ecocommunities, hosting In an attempt to limit human impact
an estimated 2500 plant species, more and conga-line hiking a number of
than 100 species of mammals, some 490 rules govern entrance to Monteverde,
butterfly species and over 400 species including a quota of 160 visitors at any
of birds, among them the resplendent one time. Consider booking a ticket a
quetzal. Though the cloudforest cover day in advance – either Pensión Santa
– dense, low-lit and heavy – can make Elena will do this for you, or you can
it difficult to see the animals, the park call yourself. Bookings aren’t available

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540
 more than 24 hours in advance. Things
get noisy and crowded between 8 and
Accommodation
11am, when the tour groups arrive. Budget travellers will unfortunately find little in the
way of cheap accommodation in this area, but
Reserva Sendero Tranquilo this should not cause too many problems, given
The Reserva Sendero Tranquilo, a private the ease with which one can get to and from Santa
reserve in the grounds of a local farm Elena (see p.538).
In the reserve, three shelter facilities cater for

Costa Rica
behind the cheese factory in Monteverde,
overnight and long-distance hikers. These outposts,
offers informative guided tours (book on
the closest of which is a two-hour hike from the
T 2645-5010; US$20) through primary- reserve entrance, cost US$5 per person per night,
and secondary-growth forest. It’s relatively plus the entrance fee for each day you’re in the
unknown, and so offers a much more reserve. Water and simple cooking facilities are
tranquil walking experience, although available, but you need to take your own food and

The Central Pacific

the number of animals you might spot is sleeping bag. Book in advance.
relative to its size.
Moving on
La Lechería
By shuttle The colectivo makes the return trip
Still using the traditional methods under-
(30min) from Santa Elena to Monteverde at 7.15am,
taken by their forefathers, the cheese-
8.15am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm & 4.30pm. For
makers at La Lechería, or the Quaker travel beyond Santa Elena, see p.538.
Cheese Factory (tours 9am & 2pm; US$8;
T 2546-7090, W www.crstudytours.com) Puntarenas
offer informative tours on the process
used to make the unique cheese of the Built on a sand spit only a few blocks
region, plus an interesting slideshow of wide, heat-stunned PUNTARENAS,
the history of the region. 110km west of San José, has the look
of raffish abandonment that haunts
so many tropical port cities. Decid-
Arrival edly from an older era, the town’s
By shuttle Shuttles from Santa Elena drop off cracked, potholed streets are shaded by
right outside the Monteverde reserve after passing mop-headed mango trees and lined
through Cerro Plano. with wooden buildings painted in

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541
 sun-bleached tutti-frutti colours.
There’s little for visitors to see or do Accommodation
– the town is of most use for its trans- There are several reasonable cheap hotels in the
port connections between the southern area, although the exponential increase in prices
Nicoya Peninsula and the mainland. has affected Puntarenas as much as anywhere
Despite being almost entirely surrounded else. Wherever you stay, make sure your room has
by water, there is no surf and the water a working fan. All places have cold-water showers
is not really considered clean enough unless otherwise stated.
Costa Rica

to swim in. Don’t be put off, though, as Gran Hotel Chortega C 1, Av 1/3 T2661-0998.
With decidedly retro decor, this well-located hotel
Puntarenas has something of a rustic
offers good security and relative value for its clean,
charm by day, and you can spend a very
if rather sterile rooms. 4 –5
relaxing few hours here soaking up the Gran Hotel Imperial Paseo de los Turistas,
sun and local atmosphere, admiring C 0/2 T2661-0579. Extremely handy for the bus
The Central Pacific

the quaint little church (Av Central, C station, this hotel is in a characterful, if rather
5/7) and wandering through the vibrant faded, wooden building, with turquoise walls and
food market (in the northeast corner of an interior garden. Rooms are spacious, dark and
town, off Av 3). Note, however, that at basic; some have an attractive wooden balcony
night the town adopts a rather seedier looking out into the courtyard. Safe location, as the
feel, so avoid wandering about alone police station is across the road. 4 –5
after dark. Hotel Cabezas Av 1, C 2/4 T 2661-1045. The
best budget option in town, this bright and sunny
hotel offers pretty pink and cream rooms, a
Arrival and information private car park and excellent security. The dueña
is quite the matriarch, but it adds to the familial
By boat The dock for the main lanchas from
ambience. 3 –4
Paqueras and Naranjo, on the Nicoya Peninsula,
Hotel Cayuga C 4, Av 0/1 T2661-0244/0344,
is on the northwestern point of town. The smaller
[email protected]. Cayuga’s plain, dark
passenger ferry from Paqueras comes in further
reception area doesn’t do justice to its clean,
east along the coast behind the Mercado Central
spacious rooms (although the retro decor is an
on Av 3.
acquired taste). They have a laundry service, and
By bus The main bus station is a large blue block
the attached restaurant is good for gallo pinto
on the corner of C 2 and Paseo de los Turistas,
(1600c) and tasty evening meals. 4
near the old train tracks and the old dock that juts
out into the gulf. Services from Manuel Antonio
and Quepos arrive at the gas station two blocks Eating
north.
Exchange There are three banks with ATMs along El Cruzero Paseo de los Turistas, opposite the bus
Av 3; all also offer currency exchange. station. Cheerful little open-walled soda decked out
Internet Possibly the best internet café (daily in vibrant greens and yellows and boasting views of
8.30am–5pm; US$1.50/hr) in Costa Rica is under the sea (and the bus station). Laid-back staff serves
a canopy just east of the church in the pedestrian tasty gallo pinto from 1500c, casados from 2000c.
centre. The owner will lock up your backpack all Kaite Blanco Av 1, C 17/19 T2661-4842.
day for a very small fee. Delicious typical Tican and fresh fish dishes (from
Taxis Available taxis line up along the beach road US$4) and a dynamic atmosphere (especially at
in front of the Banco Costa Rica by the bus station. the weekends, when there’s live music). Also an
Journeys from here to anywhere in town should excellent bar for cocktail lovers.
cost a maximum of US$5. Panadería y Cafetería Quesada C 2, Av 1/3. In a
Tourist information The Cámara de Turismo good location if you’re staying near the market, this
(Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–noon) is in an office is a real local joint – it’s always full of families and
above the Banco de Costa Rica on Paseo de los Tico couples. Gallo pinto for less than 1500c, casados
Turistas opposite the Cruise Terminal; the staff from 2000c.
can provide maps and travel information. At the Rolando’s Steak House and Pizza Paseo de los
time of writing, a regional tourist office was under Turistas & C 3. Always lively thanks to its position
construction by the Port Administration Office on on the waterfront by the dock, Rolando’s can’t
the other side of the road. match La Yunta for quality of food, but it is cheaper
542
 ONWARD TRANSPORT: NICOYA PENINSULA
Ferries from Puntarenas go to two destinations on the Nicoya Peninsula: Paquera
and Naranjo. There is absolutely nothing in Naranjo, apart from a soda by the ferry
dock and Hotel El Ancla, which will cost in the region of US$60 a night. Buses
run to Nicoya from here four times daily (7:30am, 12:15pm, 3:45pm and 8:50pm),
although it is advisable to check these times before you set off from Puntarenas.
Buses to the beaches along the southern tip only run from Paquera. Be warned

Costa Rica
that Paquera can be downright threatening at night. If you have to stop over,
Cabinas Ginana (T 2641-0119; 2 ) is secure, has clean, inexpensive rooms and a
vast restaurant. Buses depart daily from Paquera (7am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm and
4pm) to Montezuma, via Cóbano.

The Central Pacific

and a great place for a beer and a pizza. Mains Jacó
2000–5000c.
La Yunta Steak House Paseo de los Turistas, The thriving resort of JACÓ can make
C 19/21 T2661-3216. Recommended for its no claim to either class or exclusivity:
welcoming atmosphere and juicy steaks. The views stretching three kilometres along a main
of the sea really remind you that you’re on holiday. road parallel to the beach, it’s little more
Mains 3000–7000c. than a brash strip of souvenir shops,
bars, restaurants and hotels. As the
Drinking and nightlife closest beach to the capital, it’s long been
a very popular weekend destination for
The nightlife along the Paseo de los Turistas really Josefinos during the summer months,
takes off at the weekends. The bars do have a good-
and now foreign investment is allowing
natured party atmosphere, but be sure to get a taxi
back to your hotel, as the area gets dodgy later on.
for almost unrestrained development.
Capitán Moreno Right on the beach, this open- This said, the long sandy beach remains
walled bar/club has a massive dancefloor and is reasonably clean and spacious, and
hugely popular with Ticos, who come to show off the surf is good year-round – indeed,
their karaoke talents and Latino moves. Cheap surfing is pretty much the only thing to
beers and live music. do here, and the town is built around the
Happy Days Paseo de los Turistas & C 9. With a new industry. Dozens of places rent boards
upstairs balcony level and a massive Elvis figurine, it’s and give lessons (see p.544). If playing
easy to work out this bar’s musical orientation.
in the big waves isn’t your thing, there’s
Rincón del Surf Next to Capitán Moreno, Rincón
del Surf is on a smaller scale, with a similar drinks
also some nice snorkelling around Isla
list, Including a few cocktails, and lively local Tortuga, off the coast of the Nicoya
atmosphere, but just as loud. Peninsula. A number of operators in
town can arrange trips (see p.544).
Moving on
SAFETY IN JACÃfi
By boat to: Naranjo (from the Northwestern Dock; Jacó has a reputation for being
for links to Nicoya and the western peninsula): unsafe, and a hive of prostitution
daily 6am, 10am, 2.20pm, 7pm; Paquera (from the and illegal drugs. Make sure that
Northwestern Dock; for links to Montezuma, Santa your hostel has good security, and
Teresa and Mal País): 10 daily 4.30am–10.30pm; avoid wandering around by yourself
Paquera (from behind the Mercado Central): at night. Don’t take taxis that aren’t
Mon–Sat 7.30am, 11.30am, 2pm, 4pm. the typical yellow and black, as
By bus to: Jacó and Quepos (6am, 9am, noon, they are unlikely to be unlicensed.
4.30pm; 1hr 30min and 2hr 30min); Liberia However, privately booked taxis may
(4.30am, 5.30am, 7am, 8.30am, 9.30am, 11.30am, be all black: it’s worth checking when
2.30pm, 3pm, 8:30pm; 3hr); San José (hourly you call. The beach is notoriously
4am–7pm; 2hr); Santa Elena/Monteverde (7.50am, dangerous at night – stay away.
1.15pm, 2.15pm; 3hr 30min).
543
 Tour operators King Tours (T2643-2441, Wwww
Arrival and information .kingtours.com) offer a good range of quality land-
and water-based activities, including kayaking and
By bus Buses from Quepos drop off in front of the
snorkelling (both US$60), canopy tours (US$75) and
Banco Nacional in the centre of town, and those
day-trips to Isla Tortuga (US$100). It seems a lot
from San José at the bus station at the Pizza Hut
of money to fork out, but the prices are the same
complex at the northern end of town. The walk into
across the board in Jacó, and similar throughout
town from the bus station will take roughly 10min,
this part of the country. For surfboard rental, try:
but there are plenty of taxis circling the complex.
Costa Rica

Chuck’s WOW Surf, Av Pastor Díaz at C Ancha

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The Central Pacific

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 insisting on a US$100 deposit and copy of passport.
Some people rent mopeds (about US$35 a day from
Condor Bikes) and head out onto the Costañera Sur
highway to explore Playa Hermosa (see p.546).
Taxis Karen Ruz (T8835-9385 or 2643-
2323/5353) provides excellent, reliable service at
any time of day, as well as sound advice and infor-
mation on the area. 24-hour taxis also available on
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Cabinas Antonio T2643-3043. Friendly, peaceful

place north of the Pizza Hut and bus station.
Although a bit more expensive than the hostels, it
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5029, Wwww.cabinasrutan.com. This unpreten-
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544
the cheaper options are clean and good value.
Discounts are available for long stays, and the Drinking and nightlife
trilingual owner is affable and laid-back. 5 –7
Hotel de Haan On C El Bohío T 2643-1795, Jacó’s nightlife is hedonistic and sleazy, with young
W www.hoteldehaan.com. Just off the main strip, holidaymakers jostling for bar space with prosti-
and fairly quiet. Cavernous dorms are wooden tutes and their clientele.
and very rustic, with shared hot-water bath and Bohío Grill On C de Bohío. This trendy spot on the
kitchen; private rooms are essentially the same beach strikes the perfect balance between swanky
cocktail bar and friendly hang-out, with a warm

Costa Rica
– you’re just paying more for privacy. Great pool
area and a friendly vibe. Free internet for guests. atmosphere and live music almost every night. Try the
Dorms 3 , doubles 5 caipirioskas, which taste especially good at 2-for-1.
Hotel Kangaroo T 2643-3351, W www.hotel Monkey Bar Av Pastor Díaz, opposite C las Palmeras.
-kangaroo.com. About a kilometre south of the Entices the population with 2-for-1 offers and ladies’
main strip (take a taxi home at night), this hostel nights, but is more often than not just a hang-out for
cigar-smoking expats and their lady friends.

The Central Pacific

is superficially attractive if you’re looking to
escape the bustle of town. They offer board rental Toucan Jam Av Pastor Díaz, between C Las Olas
and there is a nice pool area, but the security and C El Bohío. Kitted out with balloons and pool
is a bit lax and the staff are rather stand-offish. tables, Toucan Jam boasts a long cocktail list for
Dorms 3 , rooms 4 the thirsty weekend crowd. A hearty food menu
Nathon’s Hostel On C Hicaco, just beyond is on offer during the day, but it’s definitely more
Camping Hicaco W www.nathonshotel.com, popular as a night spot.
E [email protected]. Despite a very basic Wahoos Av Pastor Díaz, just before Chuck’s and
entrance, this Texan-owned, no-frills surfer hostel Sunrise. A lively mix of café and bar, but mostly
is kitted out with a/c and clean hot showers, bar, offering big breakfasts washed down with a
good security, laundry service and a great central Bloody Mary for last night’s hangover. Good nachos
location. Board rental US$10. Dorms 3 , rooms 5 to accompany your beer and friendly relaxed
atmosphere.

Eating
Directory
Barco de Mariscos Av Pastor Díaz. This
happening, friendly, nautical-themed seafood Books Books and Stuff, on the main drag just
and pizza restaurant is a little pricey, but if you opposite C El Bohío, sells postcards and stamps, and
“build your own pizza” you’ll get a good deal has a wide selection of secondhand books on sale.
and a delicious meal for 2500c. Other mains Exchange There are several banks along the main
3500–6000c. strip. Banco Nacional (Mon–Fri 8.30am–3.45pm,
Marea Alta Just south of the Red Cross. Open 24hr Sat 9am–noon) has an ATM and currency exchange.
for end-of-the-night munchies, but by no means Internet Café Internet, next to Mas X Menos,
a fast-food joint. Tasty breakfasts and casados charges US$2/hr for quick connection and
1500–3000c. webcams. For cheaper international calls try
Pachi’s Pan Opposite Banco Nacional. Fantastic Mexican Joe’s, further north along the main road.
bakery and café with everything you need for Laundry Aquamatic, just north of the Toucan Jam
picnics and Continental breakfasts. Most items cost on the main drag, charges US$8 for every 5kg you
250–4000c. drop off. If you want to do your own washing, it’ll
Los Sabores Ticos At the southernmost end of cost you US$6.
town. Also known as Tico Flavours, Sabores Ticos is Medical care The Red Cross (T2643-3090)
a bit “plastic tablecloth”, but offers large plates of maintains a clinic on the southern end of the strip
tasty and filling typical fare for heart-warming prices between C El Hicaco and C Las Brisas.
(gallo pinto for less than 1000c, empanadas 250c).
Soda Rustica On C Hicaco. This is a very popular Moving on
soda. An enormous plate of steaming local cuisine
and a juice will run you 2000c. By bus to: Puntarenas (from outside the Banco
Sunrise Av Díaz, on the left just before Chuck’s. Nacional; 6am, 9am, noon, 4.30pm; 1hr 30min);
Opens at 6.30am for huge, delicious breakfasts Quepos (from outside the Banco Nacional; 6.30am,
(2500–4000c). The larger-than-life owner’s motto is 9.30am, 12.30pm, 4pm, 6pm; 2hr); San José (from
“no one leaves hungry”, even late at night – pizza the Pizza Hut complex; 5am, 11am, 3pm, 5pm; 2hr
is served till 2.30am. 30min).
545
 bus station in the centre of town. A taxi rank is

treat yourself
PLAYA HERMOSA conveniently located opposite. The bus station
If lively Jacó has worn you out, is one of the best places in town to get your
the peaceful community of backpack stolen, so keep your eyes open.
PLAYA HERMOSA is only 7km Tour operators Lynch Tours (see above) offers
away. Offering a long stretch horseriding trips on the beach and up into the
of darkish sand that has a mountains, sea kaying (US$60) and canopy tours
challenging, often fierce, break, to the Rainmaker Conservation Project (US$65),
Costa Rica

the beach town is, on the whole, among other activities. Equus Stables, on the road
pricier than Jacó, but makes to Manuel Antonio (T2777-0001, Ehavefun
a nice break from the crowds. @racsa.co.cr), also organizes horseriding. Iguana
Cabinas Las Arenas (Wwww Tours (T2777-1262, Wwww.iguanatours.com)
.cabinaslasarenas.com; 6 ) is an run a variety of jungle tours and transfers from
ideal place to stay for surfers with its their office by the soccer pitch. Rafting outfitters
The Central Pacific

familial atmosphere, hot showers and Los Amigos del Río (T2777-0082) have an office
rustic wooden cabins, and Jammin’, between Quepos and Manuel Antonio (look for a
a relaxed rasta restaurant, serves large orange building on the left with inflatable rafts
generous portions of surfer-friendly outside). Sunset cruises around the Manuel Antonio
fare (main US$6–8). The bus from beaches are recommended; contact Sunset Sails
Jacó to Quepos runs through here (T2777-1170), who also offer dolphin-watching
– ask the driver for the right stop – or excursions for US$65.
you can take a taxis (US$8). Tourist information Lynch Tours, one block
west of the northern side of the shopping centre
(T2777-1170, Wwww.lynchtravel.com), offers
Quepos friendly, bilingual, impartial advice on the area,
providing some tours themselves and recom-
Arriving in QUEPOS from points mending other local establishments for others.
north, it’s immediately apparent that
you’ve crossed into the lush, wetter
Accommodation
southern Pacific region: the vegeta-
tion is much thicker and greener. The Cabinas Helen A block south of the Mercado and
town itself, backed against a hill and two east of the soccer pitch T 2777-0504. Clean,
fronted by a muddy beach, can look secure cabinas in the back of a family home, with
pretty ramshackle, but it’s a friendly private bath, fridge, fans, small patio, parking and
place, with plenty of hotels, bars and laundry service. 5
Cabinas Estefan At the beginning of the road to
restaurants. You’ll notice the prolifera-
Manuel Antonio T2777-4452. These little cabins
tion of sport-fishing imagery – of all are popular with national tourists. Despite the
the sport-fishing grounds in Costa Rica, somewhat unfinished exterior, all rooms have hot
the Quepos area has the most variety, water, and there’s a pool. Location is everything,
and many small tour agencies cater with a bus stop to Manuel Antonio 20 seconds up
more or less exclusively to sport-fishers. the hill, and a supermarket on the corner. 4
There are also opportunities for all Wide Mouth Frog Backpackers Two blocks
sorts of other outdoor activities, from west of the bus station T 2777-2798/0093.
Behind the high-security gate you’ll find a
horseriding on the beach to rafting and
veritable oasis. Clean, cheery rooms – both
kayaking to dolphin-watching. For most
dorms and private rooms – form a quad around
visitors, however, it is town’s proximity the pool area. The staff are delightful, and have
to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio a mountain of information on tours, as well as
and its beaches, 7km south, that draws slow (but free) internet. A/c available for US$10.
them to Quepos. Dorms 2 , rooms 4 –5

Arrival and information Eating and drinking

By bus All buses, including the Quepos–Manuel Bar los Pescadores Next door to Wanda’s, this
Antonio shuttle, arrive at and depart from the similarly themed fisherman’s bar has a “2 beers for
546
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The Central Pacific

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2 bucks” deal on Sun, and serves up burgers and spread of free burgers and salads for their
sandwiches from 2000c. friends.
Dos Locos 50m west of the taxi rank. Good-
quality Mexican food is served by an attentive Directory
staff at this smart little restaurant. Lunch
2500–4000c. Exchange The Banco Nacional just northwest
Quepoa Opposite the bus station. The veranda of of the bus terminal does currency exchange.
this restaurant is the only place you’ll want a table, They will change traveller’s cheques, as will
as the main section is reminiscent of a barn. Open Lynch Tours.
24hr for comida t’pica and burgers, things also heat Internet K.I.T Internet café, on the 2nd floor of the
up on Wed and the weekends when the karaoke DJ commercial centre, is definitely one of the best,
comes to town. with lightning-fast connections (US$2/hr) and CD-
Republic Lounge On the road parallel north burning capabilities.
of Wanda’s. A swanky new addition to the Medical care Hospital Dr Max Teran
Quepos scene, with a powerful cocktail list (T 2777-0200), near the airport, has an
(2000–3000c), and a chic retro decor that would excellent reputation.
feel more appropriate in London. The mojitos are Post office The post office (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm) is
spot on. at the eastern end of town.
Soda Junior This tiny, Tico-run soda just north
of the bus station is the best place in town for
Moving on
fried chicken and lip-smacking cheap casados.
Gallo pinto 1500c, arroz con whatever you want By bus to: Jacó (4.30am, 7.30am, 10.30am,
1500–2500c. 12.30pm, 3pm; 2hr); Puntarenas (4.30am,
Wacky Wandas A rowdy, all-American bar 7.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm, 3pm; 3hr); San
100m west of taxi rank serving cheap beer and Isidro, via Dominical (6.30am, 7.30am, 2.45pm,
US$5 cocktails. No food, although for a special 3.30pm; 3hr); San José (6am, 9.30am, noon, 3pm
occasion (there are plenty) Wanda and her gang (Sun only), 5pm; 3hr).
will head to the kitchen to rustle up a fine

547
 Manuel Antonio What to see and do
The little community of MANUEL
ANTONIO, 7km southeast of Quepos Tiny Manuel Antonio village is
and the gateway to popular Parque booming, with an ever-increasing
Nacional Manuel Antonio, enjoys stream of visitors heading to the park,
a truly stunning setting: spectacular drinking in the breathtaking sunset or
white-grey sand beaches fringed by looking to snap up property. It is the
Costa Rica

thickly forested green hills. Watching park and not the village, though, that
a lavish sunset over the Pacific from is the main attraction. One word to the
high up here, it seems this is one of the wise: take precautions against theft here
most charming places on earth. This more than in other areas – never leave
said, the area – especially the corridor anything on the beach when swimming,
between Quepos and the village – has and don’t let people handle your luggage
The Central Pacific

experienced one of the country’s most on the bus. The town beach is also a
dramatic tourism booms. Along the no-go area after dark, with machete-
road is an unbroken line of hotels and wielding muggers known to prowl its
construction sites, which, together with lengths.
the sheer influx of people, has tainted
some of the area’s pristine magic. The Parque Nacional Manuel
area isn’t cheap, either, but with a little Antonio
doing you can find budget accommo- Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
dation. And though crowded at times, (Tues–Sun 7am–4pm; US$10; T 2777-
the park remains one of Costa Rica’s 0644, W www.manuelantonio.com) is
loveliest destinations. the second most popular national park

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548
in the country, despite being the smallest Internet Available next to the Marlin Restaurant
in area. It preserves lovely beaches, along the boulevard, although the connection is so
mangroves and humid tropical forest. slow it’s almost faster to bus to Quepos and use
one of the high-speed connections there.
You can also see the unique tómbolo
Tour operators Apache Tours, in front of Las
of Punta Catedral: a rare geophysical Gemelas bar on the boulevard (T8868-7468),
formation, a tómbolo is created when offers a full range of activities (most US$55–95),
an island becomes slowly joined to the including dolphin-watching, horseriding, jet-skiing,

Costa Rica
mainland through accumulated sand whitewater rafting and ATV hire. Ask for Christi,
deposits. Wildlife – including sloths, who is bilingual and knowledgeable about the area.
snakes, green kingfishers, laughing Kayaks del Amor, on the beach in front of Marlin
falcons and capuchin monkeys – is in Restaurant (T2777-5125), have been around for
abundance. The climate is humid and a while with great-value snorkel and kayak rental
(US$10/hr, US$20 with guide).
hot, averaging 27¼C, and although drier

The Central Pacific

in the rainy season than other parts of
the country, showers are nonetheless a Accommodation
constant threat. The budget accommodation in Manuel Antonio is
A complex trail network allows of decidedly variable quality. Be sure to book in
visitors to explore deep into the park. advance or you’ll have to settle for one of the not-
You can swim at Playa Espadilla Sur so-good places. Staying in the park over night is
(or Playa Dos), which is long and forbidden, and wardens come round in the evenings
usually very calm, or at Playa Manuel to make sure no one has been left behind.
Antonio (also called Playa Tres or
Playa Blanca), which is immediately Manuel Antonio village
Almendros T2777-0225. Further along from
south of Punta Catedral and more
Costa Linda, this great place on the edge of the
sheltered than the other beaches. park offers a lovely tiled pool area, parking, spotless
Dangerous riptides plague other- cabins, hot water and a good restaurant that serves
wise beautiful Playa Espadilla (Playa breakfast (US$2–4). 7
Primera), so only swim here with Backpackers Costa Linda T2777-0304,
extreme caution. Guides are available [email protected]. Up the hill
for hire at the park (US$20), and can away from the beach, this lively little place offers
be quite helpful, as untrained eyes cheery dorms and private rooms, as well as beers
in the restaurant/reception area. People come from
may find it difficult to pick out wildlife
far and wide for the incredible 1500c breakfast
among the dense foliage (this is one
(fresh fruit, pancakes and gallo pinto). Book in
of those places where snakes could advance. Dorms 2 , rooms 4 –5
be mistaken for vines). Ring the park Cabinas El Gordo At the top of the right-angled
office to reserve a guide. road to the beach T2777-5333. The little blue
cabins here are a bit dilapidated, but you are
Arrival and information surrounded by Tico families and right on the edge
of the park. 3
By bus Services from Quepos (every 20min) Cabinas Ramirez T2777-5333. Just at the
travel through Manuel Antonio proper and drop entrance to the village, the cabins here are rather
passengers off 200m before the park entrance at dark and pokey, but always full. The camping area
the mini roundabout. There are stops in both direc- is essentially excellent, with electricity and good
tions all along the 7km route and the buses run in a servicios, but thieves are known to walk the beach
continuous loop all day. Buses from San José arrive in front, and the security isn’t watertight. Best to
into Quepos bus station and from here the frequent stay here if you’re in a group. 2
local buses take you on to Manuel Antonio. Tico Lodge 200m up the road up from the beach
By taxi You can take a taxi from Quepos (about T 2777-5085. Though the rooms are a bit bland
US$4), but many will pick up a maximum of for the prices, the pretty red cabins do hold a
four lone passengers together, generally only for certain charm. Excellent security, good tour
trips the whole distance from Quepos to Manuel advice, laundry service and private car park all
Antonio. available. 6 –7
549
 The road from Manuel Marlin Restaurant This long-running institu-
Antonio to Quepos tion in Manuel Antonio bustles all day, offering an
Backpackers Manuel Antonio On the main road, extensive menu of both typical and American food.
halfway between Quepos and Manuel Antonio Another great spot to watch the sunset and drink in
T8820-4621, Wwww.backpackersmanuelantonio the atmosphere over a beer. Breakfast from 1500c,
.com. This hostel boasts hot-water showers, lunch from 3000c.
spotless dorms, private rooms and communal Vela Bar In Manuel Antonio village, up the road
areas and a good location (handy for the bus, Angel from the beach T2777-0413. The swankiest food
Costa Rica

restaurant, the supermarket and laundry). Camping in the village, with dishes (from around 3500c)
may be possible, too. Dorms 2 , rooms 5 that feature good grilled fish, plus some vegetarian
Cabinas Picis T 2777-0046, Wwww choices and paella.
.cabinaspicis.com. A 10min walk from
Manuel Antonio back towards Quepos, the cabinas
Moving on
here are fantastic, with private beach access and
The Nicoya Peninsula

breakfast available (US$5). 4 –5 By bus Moving on from Manuel Antonio requires

heading back to Quepos on one of the shuttle buses
that depart every 20min. From Quepos, buses run
treat yourself

Casa Buena Vista B&B

along the Pacific Coast and to San José (see p.547).
Off the main road, 2km
from Manuel Antonio T2777-
1002, W www.casabuenavista
.net. Perhaps a bit pricey, but
a stay at this haven of calm
is a must. The cabins are set The Nicoya
Peninsula
in the forest leading down to
the beach, offering simple
but spotless and comfortable
rooms, and marvellous views of the
The Nicoya Peninsula is probably
palm-fringed coastline. The owner
is very friendly, and has lots of the most popular tourist destination
information about the region. Rates in Costa Rica. Most people come
include breakfast. 7 for the beaches: although places
like surf-crazy Tamarindo have long
been popular with foreigners, quieter
spaces like playas Nosara and Sámara
Eating and drinking
offer more space for contemplation of
Eating in Manuel Antonio village can get expensive. the beautiful coastline. Some of the
Perhaps more than elsewhere, prices should be beaches in the northern section of
taken as a rough guide (no pun intended), as they the peninsula (officially Guanacaste
will have inevitably increased. There’s no real province) can be a bit difficult to
nightlife scene, so evenings are pretty quiet. reach on public transport, but the
Restaurants and bars
rewards are great for those who brave
Angel 3km from Quepos T2777-2282. Unques- the challenge. Meanwhile, much of
tionably the best place in town for relaxed Tico the southern peninsula (officially
hospitality and cuisine, with great casados for Puntarenas province) has been
7000c and 3000c beers. It’s quite hard to spot to cleared for farming, cattle-grazing or,
find – it’s tucked away between the laundry and the in the case of some areas, upmarket
football pitch. golf courses. Friendly Cóbano, 6km
Las Gemelas T2777-5278. Right on the main
inland, is the largest (although still
strip, cheerful Las Gemelas is reminiscent of a cheap
Ibiza beach bar with thumping music and white
minute) town in the southwest of
sombreros. The happy hour (4–6.30pm) cocktails the peninsula, with good amenities
(4000c) are tasty, the staff friendly and the casados including a gas station, correo, super-
delicious. Perfect for a drink while enjoying the market, guardia rural and a few bars.
sunset. There’s also a Banco Nacional, with
550
 el puente la amistad
Opened in 2003, El Puente la Amistad (the Friendship Bridge) joins the mainland
to the Nicoya Peninsula across the Río Tempisque near Puerto Moreno. Though at
the time of the bridge’s opening there was an understandable degree of concern
about its impact on the region – especially the amount of human traffic – for the
present the general consensus seems to be that since travelling from the mainland
to the peninsula via the bridge is both cheaper and faster (it saves either taking a

Costa Rica
costly ferry ride or routing from the capital north to Liberia and back south again), it
is generally a boon to the community and the tourism industry.

a Cirrus/MC/Visa ATM – the only village itself: the single most popular
reliable one in the area. There is little activity around town is probably an

The Nicoya Peninsula

else of interest for travellers here, and excursion south to the Cabo Blanco
most pass right through on the way reserve (see p.553). Despite the inviting
to Montezuma or Santa Teresa, two coastline, swimming isn’t very good
of the most popular beach hang-outs on the beaches immediately north of
in the country, both only accessible Montezuma – there are lots of rocky
by rough and rugged dirt roads lined outcroppings, the waves are rough and
with steep pasture on both sides. the currents strong. Should you fancy a
dip, it’s better to continue north towards
Montezuma Playa Grande along an attractive,
The colourful beach resort of MONTE- winding nature trail (1.5km; 30min),
ZUMA lies near the southwestern tip which dips in and out of several coves.
of the Nicoya Peninsula, about 40km There’s reasonable swimming here, and
south of Paquera, where the ferry from decent surfing, as well as a small water-
Puntarenas arrives. Some three decades fall at its eastern edge; you may see some
ago a handful of foreigners fell in love people sunbathing nude, though this
with the place – it is astoundingly isn’t particularly appreciated by locals.
beautiful – and settled here. Then it Montezuma’s environs are laced with
was just a fishing village, largely cut off a number of waterfalls, the closest of
from the rest of the country; nowadays which is about a one-kilometre walk
it’s totally devoted to tourism, with towards Cabo Blanco, and then another
virtually every building offering 800m on a path through dense growth
gringo-friendly food, accommodation (signed). Always take care with water-
or tours. This said, there’s somehow falls, especially in the wet season, on
been little large-scale development – account of flash floods, and under no
Montzuma remains basically a village, circumstances try to climb them. It is
and the coastline itself relatively possible to take a horse ride (roughly
unspoilt. Heading in either direction US$35) to places that are otherwise
are some of the loveliest beaches in the difficult to reach on foot; contact Zuma
country: grey-white sands, dotted with Tours (see p.552) in town.
jutting rocks and leaning palms and You can also visit Isla Tortuga from
backed by lush greenery, including rare here – it is far cheaper a trip than from
Pacific lowland tropical forest. Jacó (see p.544). It’s a popular place to
snorkel or swim in calm, warm and
What to see and do shallow waters, and sunbathe. A full day,
including lunch, guide and transport,
Other than hanging out and sipping costs about US$45, less than half what
smoothies, there’s not much to do in the you’ll pay from the mainland. Diving is
551
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The Nicoya Peninsula

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also a popular, if rather more expensive,

attraction (two-tank dive and full-day
Accommodation
snorkelling US$180). There are a a fair number of places to stay in
Montezuma, but it’s a popular destination and
Arrival and information things can fill up, so you might consider reserving
in advance. Camping on the beach isn’t illegal, but
By bus Services arrive and depart from outside the isn’t recommended for safety reasons.
supermarket in the centre of town. Hotel Lys Just south of the centre T 2642-0642.
Books Librería Topsy, along the beach road with a Popular with budget travellers who spend more
small library service, sells foreign newspapers and time on the beach than indoors. However, the rooms
books and maps of the area, and will post stamped are scrubbed clean daily, and the price is a winner,
mail for you. The charming American owner can particularly considering it’s right on the beach.
offer advice on the area. Breakfast available for 1000c. 2
Internet Sun Trails central tour office, along the Hotel El Parque Just north of Pensión Arenas. The
beach road towards Librería Topsy, houses an least exciting of the three beach hotels. Rooms are
internet café (daily 8am–9pm; US$2/hr). a bit musty and the mattresses particularly foamy,
Tour operators Zuma Tours, next to the super- but with the beach on the doorstep who needs to
market on the road towards the beach (T2642- be indoors? 2
0024, Wwww.zumatours.net), is the most The Mochila Inn 150m down the road to Cóbano
reputable tour operator in town, kitted out with all T 2642-0030. This secluded hostel, with all sorts
the necessary qualifications for snorkelling (US$45), of accommodation options, is a sanctuary for
canopy tours (US$35), etc. For anything they don’t wildlife, especially monkeys, who come by for
offer, they can point you in the direction of good lunch. Reggae plays gently through the communal
neighouring operators. area, and the mood is supremely relaxed. Cabins
552
 shouting above the music. It closes at 2am, after

treat yourself
Hotel Aurora In the centre of which people tend to adjourn to the beach for some
the village, at the intersection al fresco drinking.
of the road to Cóbano and the Cocolores An excellent restaurant in a garden
road to the beach T2642-0051, by the beach. The varied international menu
W www.playamontezuma includes a couple of vegetarian options as well as
.net/aurora.htm. This charming a toothsome coconut fish curry (US$6) and tasty
and delightfully peaceful all- Lebanese salad (US$4). Fine value for the quality

Costa Rica
wooden hotel features sea on offer. Closed Mon.
views through the trees and 16 Montesol Next door to the supermarket. Run by
varied rooms – the older budget a bubbly group of local ladies who specialize in
rooms are especially good value, classic Tican dishes – big, hearty pintos for 1500c
with communal fridge, orthopedic and all the other usuals for similarly good value. You
mattresses and hot water in the can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.

The Nicoya Peninsula

shared bathrooms. Hammocks Organico Next to Soda Naranjo, before the Bakery.
swing in a communal balcony area, Lives up to its name by offering up great organic
which is complete with a bubbling treats, including falafels, salads, sandwiches and
fountain. The German owners will some local cuisine. The smoothies are fantastic.
bend over backwards to make you As at home, you pay more to eat healthy – expect
feel welcome, and the fully equipped lunch to be around 3500c.
kitchen and dining area gives you Soda Naranja Hidden behind a wall of leafy
the chance to save the extra you’re foliage, this popular soda serves up delicious
spending on the room by cooking casados and fresh fish dishes at some of the best
your own meals. 6 prices in town (starting at 1500c). Check out the
daily specials.

are very basic and back-to-nature – there is an al

fresco lavatory. Camping 1 , dorms 2 , rooms 4 ,
Moving on
cabins 4 –5 By boat to: Jet-boats to Jacó (US$30) can be
Pensión Arenas Just north of Hotel Lys T2642- arranged by Zuma Tours (see p.552).
0306. The second of three hotels lined up along the By bus to: Cabo Blanco (departs from the
beach, Arenas is pretty run-down but has a certain Parqueo on the road towards Mal País; 5 daily;
faded charm, with pink and white decor and cosy times change frequently); Cóbano (3 daily; times
(to say the least) rooms with shared baths. The change frequently); Mal País (3 daily; times change
beach garden is pretty inviting. 2 frequently); Paquera: (6 daily; times change
Pensión Lucy 500m south of the centre T2642- frequently, but the latest is usually around 4pm); San
0273. A Montezuma stalwart containing clean and José (5.45am (Mon–Fri only), 8.15am, 3.30pm.
basic rooms with cold-water showers and a nice
seaside veranda upstairs. There are also a couple
of rooms with private bath. It’s one of the village’s
Reserva Natural
best cheapie options, if a little quirky. The owner Absoluta Cabo
also offers a reasonable laundry service and runs
an inexpensive eatery next door. 3
Blanco
Seven kilometres southwest of Monte-
Eating and drinking zuma, up a particularly rocky track, the
RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA
Bakery Café Directly opposite Librería Topsy. CABO BLANCO (Wed–Sun 8am–
Pretty murals lend a relaxed beach vibe to this 4pm; US$8; T 2642-0093, W www
open-walled café. The smoothie list has answers .caboblancopark.com) is Costa Rica’s
for even the heaviest of night-befores, though the
oldest protected piece of land, covering
food is a little pricey (organic sandwiches starting
at 2500c).
the entire southwest tip of the penin-
Chico’s At the bottom of the road down to the sula. The natural beauty of the area is
beach, Chico’s attracts a mix of local kids, who complemented by the array of wildlife
arrive packed in the back of pick-ups, and tourists, found here, including howler monkeys,
all guzzling from a surprisingly well stocked bar and sloths and snakes.
553
 Hiking and wildlife-watching are the remain virtually untouched. Despite
main activities, and visitors can enjoy the development in the area as a whole
stunning, if rather strenuous, trails – a surf community is fast establishing
through the evergreen forest while itself in these parts – the atmosphere
soaking up the sounds of the jungle. is still chilled out and very friendly.
The pristine white beaches within Everything from daytime activities to
the reserve’s boundaries offer a great nightlife revolves around the beach:
chance to spot an array of sea birds, try to time your stay for one of the full-
Costa Rica

including the brown booby, which moon parties.

favours the islands dotted off the coast-
line as nesting places. One particularly Arrival and information
attractive trail (5km; 2hr) leads from
the ranger centre through the forest to By bus Services from Cóbano arrive three times
The Nicoya Peninsula

daily to Playa Carmen (the intersection at which

Playa Cabo Blanco and Playa Balsitas
the right fork takes you to Santa Teresa, and the
– two very lovely, deserted (depending left to Mal País). The early morning bus then goes
on the season) spots, though they’re not on to Mal País and the two afternoon ones to Santa
great for swimming. The ranger hut, Teresa. Santa Teresa is all of one (very) dusty track;
where you pay your entrance fee, also a good landmark is El Pulpo restaurant, on the
has a supply of trail maps. right-hand side about 1km from Playa Carmen – it
Tours are readily available, but the marks the beginning of the village centre. Mal País
reserve is easy enough to reach by is far less developed so ask the bus driver to drop
public transport. An old bus rattles you off at your destination.
By taxi Taxis from Cóbano will cost in the region
back and forth between Montezuma
of US$22. There is no taxi rank as such in Santa
and Cabo Blanco five times daily, Teresa (and nothing of the sort in Mal País), but
leaving from the side of Montezuma’s hotels are happy to book for you.
parqueo, although it may not run in Exchange Playa Carmen (at the intersection of the
the rainy season. Jeep-taxis also make roads from Cóbano, Mal País and Santa Teresa) is
the trip from Montezuma to Cabo home to a Banco Nacional with a temperamental
Blanco, for US$10 per person. If you ATM.
like mountain biking, you could ride Tour operators Tropical Tours, opposite the Banco
Nacional in Playa Carmen (T 2640-1900, Wwww
the 9km down to Cabo Blanco, walk
.caboblancopark.com/tropicaltours), offers every-
the trails and bike back in a day. Mind thing from canopy tours to horseriding. The office
the height of the two creeks en route, has a slow internet connection (US$3/hr). Surf
though, as you might not get through schools are everywhere: most hostels offer lessons
them at high tide. You can’t stay in the and board rental, but Pura Vida (T 2640-0118), on
park, so have return transport planned. the beach 200m north of Playa Carmen intersec-
Check that you’ve got enough sunblock tion, is a reputable independent store that offers
and water: the sun is stronger than you both lessons and boards.
might think.
Accommodation
Mal País and Playa
Cabinas Mar Azul Mal País T 2640-0075. A
Santa Teresa sign on the side of the road invites you down a
The long beach of PLAYA SANTA dirt track to one of the most idyllic spots on the
TERESA, at the tip of the peninsula on coast. The cabins are pretty rustic but, consid-
ering the stunning beach location, excellent
the Pacific side, is luring in increasing
value. The attached restaurant and bar get fairly
numbers of travellers for its picturesque rowdy on a Fri. Camping 1 (bring your own tent),
setting and excellent surf. By contrast, rooms 3
the tranquil muddle of houses, restau- Cuesta Arriba 300m north of the football pitch in
rants and breathtaking coastline that Santa Teresa T2640-0607. Seems like more of a
make up neighbouring MAL PAÍS luxury villa than a hostel, with whitewashed walls,
554
attractive arches and spacious communal areas.
Dorms are equipped with sturdy bunks and proper Arrival and information
mattresses, and there are plenty of hammocks. A
By bus Buses from Liberia and all other destina-
peaceful spot. 3
tions arrive at the sizeable bus station at Nicoya’s
Wave Trotter Surf Hostel Up the hill behind
southernmost point, just before the road bridge
El Pulpo in Santa Teresa T2640-0805,
leading out of town.
Wwww.wavetrotterhostel.com. This Italian-run
Exchange Banco Costa Rica, around the park, has
hostel is a surfer’s paradise, complete with boards
an ATM, as does the Banco Nacional.

Costa Rica
lining the walls and chilled beats echoing through
Internet Available directly opposite Hotel Jenny
the communal area. The only thing topping the hot-
(daily 9am–8pm; US$ 1/hr).
water showers and clean, comfortable dorms is the
Post office The correo is on the southwestern
feeling that you’re being welcomed into a family.
point of the Parque Central.
Book ahead. 3

Accommodation

The Nicoya Peninsula

Eating and drinking
Baraka Café Santa Teresa. Experience Hotel Jenny 100m northwest of the bus station
possibly the best breakfast ever in this T2685-5050. Friendly and secure, with old, basic
laid-back artisanal café. They serve lattes in huge rooms with a/c, TV and phone. Its location is perfect
comforting mugs and fabulous tostadas with real for all the things you might need during a stop-
raspberry jam (1500c). Even the pinto (2500c) over. 4
tastes like a delicacy.
Burger Rancho Santa Teresa. Burgers (2000– Eating
4000c) that prove it’s actually possible to get a real
one in Costa Rica without paying a fortune for the Cafetería Daniela 100m east of the parque. A
privilege. popular choice for breakfast (1000–1500c) and
El Pulpo Santa Teresa T 2640-0685. Friendly lunch (1500–2000c). You can peruse the local art
restaurant serving up some truly excellent pizzas on the walls while you eat.
(2500–4000c) and empanadas (500c), well worth Soda Yadira 200m north and 25m east of Hotel
the slightly elevated prices. If you’re too relaxed Jenny. Another bustling local favourite – you may
to leave your hammock to go for dinner, they’ll have to wait for a table. Breakfast here will set you
deliver. back roughly US$1.50, with casados and arroz con
anything for US$3–4.
Moving on
Moving on
By bus to: Montezuma (8:30am & 3:30pm;
45min, Cóbano (three daily; times change By bus to: Liberia (every 30min 3.50am–8.20pm;
frequently; 45min). You can transfer in Cóbano 2hr); Sámara (5am, 6am, 8am, 10am, 11am, noon,
for services to San José (6:15am (Mon–Fri only), 1pm, 2pm, 3pm, 4.30pm, 6.30pm, 9.45pm; 1hr);
8:45am & 4pm). San José (10 daily 3am–5pm; 4hr).

Nicoya Playa Sámara

Busy and rather unattractive, NICOYA SÁMARA, one of the most peaceful,
is one of the largest settlements on the though increasingly upmarket, beach
peninsula. Though it has little to offer resorts on the Nicoya Peninsula, lies
the traveller, it is a perfectly good place 30km southwest of Nicoya at the end
to spend the night if you are waiting for a of a (very) rough dirt road. Compared
bus transfer between the southern areas to other Pacific beach towns, it’s quite
of the peninsula and Playa Tamarindo. remote and relatively inaccessible, which
The Parque Central, centring on a makes for a nice and relaxing atmos-
ramshackle but beautiful white adobe phere. The long, clean beach here is one
church, is nice to meander through, but of the nation’s calmest for swimming
beyond this you probably won’t feel the – there’s a reef about a kilometre out that
need to stay long. takes the brunt of the Pacific’s power.
555
 The moderate waves make Sámara a

treat yourself
great place to learn to surf. Hotel Belvedere 100m down
the road to Carrillo T2656-
0213, Wwww.samara-costarica
Arrival and information .com. The ten rooms and two
apartments here come with
By bus Buses arrive in Sámara along the main road
either a/c or fan (the latter
to the beach, stopping almost at the shore by the
US$8 less), and all are brightly
football pitch.
Costa Rica

furnished in light wood, with

Exchange There is a Banco Nacional with ATM mosquito nets and solar-heated
and the facilities to exchange dollars on the road water. There’s also a Jacuzzi
to the church. and swimming pool, and a good
Internet A café on the main street next to the German breakfast is included. 7
Artisanal gallery charges US$1.50/hr for high-speed
connections.
The Nicoya Peninsula

Tour operators Sámara Adventures, on the beach-

music from the club next door pounds late into the
front road just south of the centre (T2656-1054,
night. 2
E [email protected]), runs a variety of
Posada Matilori Take the first left along the beach
fishing and watersports excursions. The employees
road, then the first right. T2656-0291 or 8817-8042,
at Tío Tigre (follow the beachfront road towards
[email protected]. The prices at this laid-
Hotel Casa del Mar, and take first left; T 2656- back hotel have increased, but it is still an appealing
0098) will instruct you in sea-kayaking and also option, with clean, homely rooms with orthopedic
run dolphin-watching cruises. Matteo Caretti at the mattresses, laundry service and boogie boards. 7
Marea Surf Shop (T8887-3059, Emareasurf@
hotmail.com) is a kind, reassuring and professional
instructor. Eating
El Ancla At El Ancia hotel. With a long menu of fish
Accommodation dishes (4000–6000c) and a pretty setting close to
the water, this spot attracts plenty of holidaying
Staying in Sámara is getting pricier all the time, Ticos, who know good seafood when they smell it.
although during the low season most hotels can El Dorado 150m past the Banco Nacional.
offer better rates than the ones listed here. On high- For outstanding Italian food (2500–7500c),
season weekends you should have a reservation no wine and hospitality, look no further. In true
matter how much you’re looking to spend. Mediterranean style, the Italian owners run things
El Ancla On the beachfront road 200m south of exactly as they would back home. This is one of the
the centre T2656-0284. Simply furnished rooms finest restaurants in the region.
right on the beach, with cold-water bathroom and Jardín Marino On C Principal opposite the football
fan. Try to get an upstairs room – the downstairs pitch. You’ll find reasonably priced food at this popular
ones feel dark. Friendly dueña and good beachfront restaurant, although the staff can only be described
seafood restaurant (see below). 2 as surly. The burgers are incredible (2000c).
Camping Coco T 2656-0496. In a fabulous palm- Pizza and Pasta a Go-go Serving rather pricey
dotted beach location, this campsite offers basic but filling pizzas (from 4000c) with a mind-boggling
servicios and provides electricity until 10pm. Keep list of toppings, this restaurant underneath Hotel
a good eye on your stuff, though – the beaches are Guiada is a good spot to come when you’re craving
notorious for pickpockets at night. Camping 1 some gringo food.
Hotel Casa del Mar On the beach road, on Soda Sheriff Rustic On the beach at the bottom
the left-hand side if coming from the football C Principal. One of the few real sodas left in town,
pitch T 2656-0264, Wwww.casadelmarsamara with wooden tables for al fresco dining under the
.net. Small hotel set around a compact pool shade of a huge nigueron tree. Breakfast 1500c,
has spotless rooms (some with beach views), a lunch 1500–2500c.
delightful staff, good beds, fans, private hot-water
baths and private beach access. Book in advance, Drinking and nightlife
they’re usually packed to the rafters. 6
Hotel Playa Sámara Behind the football pitch La Vela Latina South of the centre on the beach.
T 2656-0190. One of the cheaper option in towns, Sit in rocking chairs as the friendly staff here mix
with basic, electric-green rooms. Note that the you one of their cracking daiquiris (US$4).
556
Shake Joe’s On the beach, 25m south of C Internet Available at the Nosara Office Center
Principal. This stunning beach spot is better for a (US$3/hr).
sunset beer or cocktail than the rather expensive Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm) is
food on the menu (breakfast US$6). next to the airstrip in Nosara.
Tutti Frutti On the beach. Packed with Ticos Tourist information A useful listings website
and tourists alike at the weekend; the volume, if is W www.nosara.com. Also, the Nosara Office
perhaps not the quality, of the music keeps the Center, by the airstrip in Nosara, offers helpful
party going until 3am. Entry US$2. information.

Costa Rica
Moving on Accommodation
By bus to: Nicoya (5:30am, 7am, 10:30am, 1pm, Accommodation around the Playas Nosara is of
3:30pm; 2hr); San José (5am, 8:30am; 5hr). high quality, but there’s not a lot to keep the budget
By car The road to Nosara from Sámara is traveller happy.

The Nicoya Peninsula

more of a jungle expedition, including two river Cabinas Dilan Nosara village T 2682-0371. Basic,
crossings, so be sure you’re in a 4WD and your new little cabins with good mattresses and private
Indiana Jones hat. bathrooms. You can stumble to the soda next door
for breakfast. 3
Kaya Sol Back from Playa Guiones T 2682-0080,
PLAYAS Nosara
W www.kayasol.com. This is a popular
The stimulating 25km drive from and relaxed spot designed with surfers in
Sámara north to the PLAYAS NOSARA mind. Accommodation comes in bungalows
runs along shady, secluded dirt and equipped with fan and fridge, and some with
gravel roads punctuated by a few creeks small kitchen. There’s a restaurant serving gringo
– a 4WD is essential during all seasons. favourites to the sounds of Bob Marley. Dorms 2 ,
cabins 6 –7
Generally referred to collectively, there
Solo Bueno On the road to Playa Guiones
three rugged beaches in the area – t no phone, W www.solobuenohostel.com.
Nosara, Guiones and Pelada – of which The owners of this place are surf addicts, and
Playa Guiones is the most impressive, it shows in the ambience and decor – dorms
and most popular with surfers. All three, are basic and the reception area packed with
however, are great places for beach- hammocks. You can camp on the grounds (tents
combing, and the vegetation, even in the for rent); they’ve recently installed servicios.
dry season, is greener than further north. Camping 1 , dorms 2
Tucan Cabins On the beach road in Playa
The beach settlement itself is spread over
Guiones, 100m from Banco Costa Rica. It might be
a large area; the main village of Nosara expensive, but this place has everything: hot-water
sits some 3km inland, and is home to an showers, a relaxing pool area, ping-pong tables and
airstrip and the only (seriously primitive) an in-house bar and restaurant, all in a lush garden
“gas station” in the area. Some attempts just a stone’s throw from the beach. Worth it if
have been made to limit development in you’re in a group. 8
the area – a good deal of the land around
the Río Nosara has been designated a Eating and drinking
wildlife refuge – and the vast majority of
people who come to Nosara are North The Nosara area has experienced a mini-explosion
of restaurants in the past few years. Many of them
Americans and Europeans in search of
are very good, and prices are not as high as you
quiet and natural surroundings. Unfortu- might expect, given the area’s relative isolation.
nately, accommodation for backpackers There are a number of places in Nosara village,
is increasingly hard to find. most of them around the soccer field or on the road
into town, though most of the better restaurants
Arrival and information are huddled together near Playa Guiones, which is
where the majority of tourists eat. The Super Nosara
By bus Buses arrive at the Abastecedor general supermarket, in Nosara proper to the south of the
store in Nosara proper, via the settlement next to soccer field, is a good place to stock up if you’re
Playa Guiones. self-catering.
557
 Restaurants It takes about fifteen minutes to drive
La Casona At the entrance to Nosara proper, this is the gravel-and-stone road from Nosara
a great spot for a tasty and relaxed evening meal, to the refuge; alternatively you can bike
and, although it can look pricey, all the traditional it or take a taxi (around US$3). No buses
casados, etc are in the US$5–8 price range.
run from Nosara, although hitching
Gilded Iguana Behind Playa Guiones. Upmarket
gringo bar with Mexican food, and well-priced lunch
from the village is reportedly easy.
specials, including filet of dorado (2500c) and fish
Playa Tamarindo
Costa Rica

and chips (4000c). Closed Sun–Tues.

Rancho Tico On the corner before you enter Stretching for a couple of kilome-
Nosara proper. The welcoming dueña serves up tres over a series of rocky headlands,
an appetizing collection of traditional dishes, with
PLAYA TAMARINDO is one of the
casados around 2500c, and arroz con anything
between 1500–3000c.
most popular Pacific coast beaches,
though it couldn’t be any less Costa
The Nicoya Peninsula

Robin’s Café 50m beyond Banco Costa Rica.

Enjoy delicious organic sandwiches (2000–2500c), Rican in character – locals and expats
crepes and ice creams in the little garden in front are completely outnumbered by tourists,
of this café. and developers encroach a bit further
Soda Vanessa In Nosara village. A typical soda every day. Nonetheless, the sprawling
with filling and well-prepared casados for under beach village boasts a decent selection
1500c, as well as other snack-style fare. of restaurants, a lively beach culture and
a great party vibe, at least during high
Moving on season.
There are loads of things to do outside
By bus to: Nicoya (5am, 8am, 1pm, 3pm; 2hr); San
José (5 daily; times change frequently; 5hr). For in Tamarindo. It’s the perfect beach for
Sámara take the bus to Nicoya and stop at Bomba beginner surfers: gentle waves push
de Sámara (ask the driver). From here you can jump against the grey-white sands on a daily
on buses passing through to Sámara from Nicoya. basis, all year round. Legions of places
rent surfboards – typical prices are
Refugio Nacional US$10 for a day’s rental of a longboard,
de Fauna Silvestre or US$60 for a week. Another excel-
lent surf beach, Playa Langosta, lies a
Ostional few kilometres south of town. Other
Eight kilometres northwest of Nosara, exceptional activities based in town
Ostional and its chocolate-sand beach are river estuary tours through the
make up the REFUGIO NACIONAL DE mangroves of Parque Nacional Las
FAUNA SILVESTRE OSTIONAL, one Baulas (see p.560) and moonlight
of the most important nesting grounds turtle tours to the same park (Nov to
in the country for Olive Ridley turtles, mid-Feb only), as well as windsurfing
which come ashore here to lay their eggs and snorkelling.
between May and November. If you’re
in town during the first few days of the Arrival and information
arribadas – the mass arrivals of turtles
to lay eggs – you’ll see local villagers By bus There is no bus terminal to speak of, but
carefully stuffing bags full of eggs and all buses arrive by the village loop at the southern
slinging them over their shoulders. This tip of the high street. You’re right in the thick of
things here.
is quite legal: villagers of Ostional and
Tour operators Some of the best operations in
Nosara are allowed to harvest eggs, for town for surfing are: Iguana Surf, 500m along the
sale or consumption, during the first road to Playa Langosta (T 2653-0148, Wwww
three days of the season only. You can’t .iguanasurf.net), which will almost certainly have
swim here, though, since the water’s too you standing on a board by the end of your first
rough and is frequented by sharks. class (around US$45, including board rental); Chica
558
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Surf (T8827-7884, Echicasurfschoolcr@hotmail having your very own beach villa – there’s an
.com), an all-girls surf school and shop just off amazing communal terrace, a/c, proper mattresses
the loop in the centre of town; and local institution and wonderful beach views. Totally chilled surf vibe
Tamarindo Adventures (T2653-0108, Wwww – so peaceful, in fact, that monkeys swing by in the
.tamarindoadventures.net). For river estuary and mornings. Dorms 3 , rooms 5
turtle tours, Papagayo Excursions (T2653-0254 Cabinas Marielos On the main road
Wpapagayoexcursions.com; estuary tour US$35, T &F 2653-0141. Light and clean basic rooms
turtle tour US$40), a friendly and very professional with fan, cold water and the use of a small
outfit based 1km north of the town centre on the kitchen in pleasant and colourful grounds set
road to Liberia, offers the best rates. back from the main road. The owner is profes-
sional with a wealth of knowledge, and runs turtle
Accommodation tours in season. A/c costs a bit more. 5
Cabinas Rodamar Opposite Witches Rock
Expect to shell out for accommodation in Surf Camp T2653-0109. Basic backpackers’
Tamarindo: even the budget stuff here is more than hangout, with dark cabinas in an institutional-style
virtually everywhere else. compound set back from the main road. That said,
Beach House Hostel On the road towards rooms are a cheerful blue colour, and have big
Liberia, roughly 1km from the centre beds, quirky cold-water showers and aren’t bad for
T 2653-0938, Wwww.tamarindoecoadventure the price. The atmosphere is friendly, and you can
.com. Staying at this laid-back hostel is a bit like use the kitchen. 3
559
 Hostel La Botella de Leche T 2653-0944,
W www.labotelladeleche.com. Take the road Drinking and nightlife
towards Playa Langosta from the beach road, then
People generally congregate in one chosen bar or
take the left fork at the Playa Langosta turning to
club each evening. Hang about on the beach for a
reach this excellent backpacker hostel offering
few hours and you’ll hear the evening’s hot nightspot.
comfortable, a/c dorm accommodation and a
Babylon Off the main road behind the loop. Usually
sociable environment, with a communal kitchen
the hottest spot in town, complete with cheap beers
and free high-speed internet. Designed with surfers
(1000c) and the latest chart hits. The music goes on
Costa Rica

in mind, you can rent and repair boards here, as

well as arrange classes. Very popular – reserve till around 4am. Get a taxi at the end of the night to
ahead. Dorms 2 , rooms 4 avoid any unwanted attention on the walk home.
Tsunami Hostel Opposite Beach House Hostel La Barra This funky little bar/club is most popular
T 2653-0280. Although there is better accom- with Ticos, although they’re happy to share the
modation around for the price, the rooms here dancefloor. Merengue and salsa carry on till around
1am, when the DJ begins to mix the latest pop hits.
The Nicoya Peninsula

are clean and nicely set back from the main road;
the ones further up the hill are smarter, and cost Good fun all round.
slightly more. The well-equipped kitchen and large Mambo On the Tamarindo loop. Blasting out hip-
parking area are definite perks. 4 hop classics from the mid-90s, Mambo is a good
place to start your evening.
Monkey Bar Said to be “good on a Friday”,
Eating Monkey Bar is otherwise fairly unmemorable, but
has 2-for-1 offers and a ladies’ night.
You can self-cater at Supermercado Tamarindo,
located just before the turn towards Playa Langosta,
which also has a good selection of toiletries and Directory
after-sun products.
Eat @ Joe’s Along the main road, 50m from the Internet Interlink High Speed café, 10m from
town centre. Part of the Witch’s Rock Surf Camp, Cabinas Marielos towards the turning circle, has
a hostel/surf shop/bar for mainly North American quick connections (US$2/hr) and international
teenagers, this friendly hang-out serves up rather phone calls.
expensive sushi as well as some truly excellent Exchange ATMs are dotted all over town, notably
nachos (US$3), if you just want an enormous snack. on the main road. There’s an HSBC here, among
The regular live music in the evenings is wildly others.
entertaining. Laundry Wash and dry at Lavandería Backwash
Frutas Tropicales One of the few genuinely cheap (US$1.50/kg), left as you turn up towards Playa
places in Tamarindo. As the name suggests, there’s Langosta from the main beach road.
plenty of tropical fruit in this little snack bar – try
a refresco. Otherwise the menu is the usual soda Moving on
fare, with casados (1750c) and hamburgers (1500c)
both good bets. By bus to: Liberia (5.30am, 9am, 11.30am, 1pm,
Noguis Bar/Sunrise Café On the Tamarindo loop. 5pm; 2hr); San José (Mon–Sat 3.30am & 5.45am;
Casual café serving excellent breakfasts (US$4), 5hr 30min, Sun 5.45am & 12.30pm; 6hr); Santa
good breads, pastries and coffees – which you can Cruz, for points south (5 daily; times change
either eat at the breezy seaside tables or take away frequently; 1hr 45min).
– and fine meals such as fish tacos and fresh fillets
in the US$6–12 range. Stop by at sunset to enjoy Parque Nacional
a cold beer.
Nuestra Casita Tucked away beyond Pedro’s and Marino Las Baulas
Babylon, this adorable Tico spot dishes up a brilliant On the Río Matapalo estuary between
typical breakfast for US$2.50, and casados for Conchal and Tamarindo, PARQUE
US$3 in a secluded area away from the mad buzz
NACIONAL MARINO LAS BAULAS
of town. Well worth the time it takes to find it.
(9am–4pm, open for guided night
Pedro’s Just along the beach from Noguis, this
restaurant is effectively a gazebo with trestle tours in season; US$16, including tour;
tables. They’ll fix you up good local grub in the T 2653-0470) is less a national park than
US$4–6 range while you play with the sand a reserve, created to protect the nesting
between your toes. grounds of endangered leatherback
560
turtles. These ancient creatures, which conservation efforts. There’s also a
come ashore to nest from October to souvenir shop and a small café.
February, have laid their eggs at Playa There are two official entrances to
Grande for possibly millions of years, Playa Grande, though tickets can only
and it’s now one of the few remaining be bought at the southern entrance,
such nesting sites in the world. This where the road enters the park near the
said, someone seems to have given Villa Baulas. Booking your tickets in
advance (on the park number) is highly

Costa Rica
developers carte blanche in the area, the
effects of which remain to be seen. The recommended, as numbers are strictly
beach itself offers a beautiful sweep of limited. There is no public transport
light-coloured sand, and outside laying to the park. Most people visit by boat
season you can surf, though swimming from Tamarindo, a service that usually
is rough. comes as part of tour packages, or can

The Nicoya Peninsula

Around 200m from the park entrance, be booked when you call to reserve your
the impressive El Mundo de la Tortuga entrance ticket.
exhibition (2–6pm, or later when
turtles are nesting; US$5) includes Playa del Coco
an audio-guided tour in English and Thirty-five kilometres west of Liberia,
some stunning turtle photographs. PLAYA DEL COCO was the first
You’ll learn about the leatherback’s Pacific beach to hit the big time with
habitats and reproductive cycles, along weekending Costa Ricans from the Valle
with the threats they face and current Central. It’s turned out to be something

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561
 of a nightmare: a cross between an
upmarket resort, filled with imposing
Accommodation
hotels, casinos and restaurants, and a Coco has lots of fairly basic cabinas. In the high
hot-spot for budget travellers in search season you should make sure to reserve for
of Jaegermeister and a dancefloor. weekends, but you can probably get away with
Indeed, its main appeal is its status as turning up on spec mid-week, when rooms may
the only place on this part of the coast also be a bit cheaper. Bargains also abound in the
low season.
Costa Rica

with reasonable budget accommodation

Cabinas Coco Alegre Following the road leading
– surfers use it as a jumping-off point
left in front of the football pitch, double back round
for Witch’s Rock, up the coast, and for to the left beyond the Coco Palms Hotel T2670-
playas Hermosa and Panamá. It’s fine 1994. Run by a wonderful Tico family, the rooms
for a couple of days, with the aforemen- here, each with two double beds, are admittedly
tioned nightlife and some good diving boiling hot, but come with sturdy fan, fridge and
The Nicoya Peninsula

operators, but how long it remains private cold-water shower. 4

interesting is all down to personal taste. Cabinas Jivao Within the same little annexe
of town as Coco Alegre T2670-0769. Similar
standard to Coco Alegre, with clean rooms with
What to see and do bunks and private cold-water baths. Definitely book
in advance, particularly at weekends. 2
There isn’t a huge amount to see or do. Cabinas “Rooms to Rent” On the road to the left
The main track down to the beach is a in front of the football pitch, directly opposite Coco
noisy, dirty melange of roaring 4WDs Palms Hotel T8887-3192. So new they didn’t
and souvenir markets, while the area have a name at the time of writing, these cabins
nearer the beach is a little quieter, with are great. Some rooms are more basic than others,
the football pitch, the budget accom- but the highlight is a lovely communal balcony and
modation and some funky cocktail kitchen with pool table. 5
Cabinas Tony Opposite Cabinas Jivao.
bars that get packed out most nights
T 2670-0528. Another secure set of cabinas in
with visiting surfers and Ticos from the the secluded strip. The price is unquestionably
surrounding villages. Due to the high the main selling point (the rooms aren’t much
numbers of boats in the bay the water is to look at) and it’s away from the rowdy town
rather polluted, and not very appealing centre. 2
for swimming. Diving, however, is a Mar Y Mar On the beach just south of the football
popular activity in the region, although pitch T2670-1212. Clean rooms with private
there is no beach diving – dive centres bathrooms around a rather run-down inner
courtyard. The beach location is beautiful by day, but
take you to the islands off the coast, such
far from safe at night: do not walk back alone from
as Isla Santa Catalina, 20km offshore. the town centre after dark. 3

Arrival and information

treat yourself

Cabinas Ruby On the road

By bus Buses stop at the Parque at the bottom of leading to Mapache T 2389-
the main road, virtually on the beach. Although this 6746. Quiet and comfortable,
is the official bus stop, you will not find any bus this hotel boasts bright rooms
information here – ask in the sodas on the beach if with firm mattresses, private
you need to check schedules. hot-water baths, a/c and an
Tour operators Rich Coast Diving, on the main attractive courtyard complete
road about 300m from the beach (T 2670-0176, with barbecue and shaded
W www.richcoastdiving.com), organizes snorkelling tables. Security is second to
and scuba trips, and rents out mountain bikes; the none, and the American owner
staff speaks English. Summer Salt Dive Centre, is relaxed and unobtrusive. Although
next to Jardín Tropical (T2670-0308, Wwww on the main road, it is quiet and only
.summer-salt.com), offers custom diving packages a 10-minute walk to the town’s best
(about US$70 for two dives), PADI courses and nightspots. 7
whale-watching excursions.
562
 Eating Moving on
Coco Coffee Company This smart coffee bar By bus to: Liberia (5am, 6:30am, 8:30am, 10am,
under Papagayo Seafood sells cappuccinos and 12:45pm, 3pm, 5pm, 6pm; 45min); San José (5am,
good but overpriced sandwiches (2500c). 11am, 3pm, 5pm; 5hr).
Jardín Tropical The best breakfast in town is
served overlooking the Parque at the far end of Playa Panamá and
town. Gallo pinto 2000–2500c.

Costa Rica
Papagayo Seafood On the main road, on the Playa Hermosa
second floor opposite the casino. A rather upmarket Sheltered from the full force of the
seafood restaurant decked out in nautical artefacts Pacific, the clear blue waters and
and fairy lights. The seafood-orientated menu is
volcanic sands at PLAYA PANAMÁ
quite expensive but very good value – the fish
dishes are superbly fresh, and you definitely won’t
and PLAYA HERMOSA, just up the

The Nicoya Peninsula

leave hungry. Prices range between US$9–12. road to the north of Playa del Coco,
Soda Papagayo On the main drag, opposite the provide the perfect environment for
casino hotel. A colourful soda that plays chilled a couple of days’ relaxation, or even
beats throughout the day in the centre of the strip. as a day-trip from Coco. Diving is
Sandwiches for 1500c, and casados for 2000c. the highlight of the area; jet-skis and
Soda Teresita Opposite the Parque at the bottom horseriding tours are also available, but
of the main road. Pretty pink soda with some tables
for far higher prices than in other parts
outside overlooking the beach. Good typical break-
fasts and casados for 1500–2000c. of the country. Diving Safaris de Costa
Rica, in Playa Hermosa just beyond
the supermarket on the main road
Drinking and nightlife
to the beach (T 2672-1259, W www
Coco Mar Right on the beach to the right of the .costaricadiving.net), is the diving
Parque, this is where it all kicks off after the bars authority in the region. They can
closed, with cocktails aplenty and a young, enthu- provide everything from snorkel hire
siastic crowd. (US$5/2hr) to PADI courses (one-day
Lizard Lounge At the corner of the right turn to
dives from US$75).
Cabinas Ruby and Mapache. The most popular bar
on the strip serves great cocktails (US$4) to the
Unfortunately, budget accommoda-
beat of well-mixed electronic and pop classics. tion at Playa Panamá is non-existent,
Zouk Santana On the main drag, below Lizard and is restricted to only a few options
Lounge. Gringo bar that does well off the back of the at Playa Hermosa. Hotel Las Iguanas
Lizard Lounge. Drinks are more expensive, but there’s (T 2672-0065; 5 ), 25m from the beach
a happy hour 5–7pm, and lively themed nights. on the left side of the main road, is
easily the best budget option in town,
Directory offering basic but well-ventilated rooms
overlooking a lovely swimming pool and
Exchange Banco Nacional (Mon–Fri 8.30am–
3.45pm), 500m up the main road from the beach
a secluded garden. Ecotel, on the beach
next to the supermarket Luperón, will exchange 500m north of the main road (T 2672-
dollars and has an ATM. 0175, F 2672-0146; 4 ), also has a lovely
Internet Try Café Pillis (daily 8am–9pm; US$1.50/ relaxed atmosphere, though you should
hr), on the second floor above the souvenir shop, be prepared for virtually no privacy
opposite the football pitch on main road. – the rustic, back-to-nature hostel has
Medical care The Coco Medical Centre (T2670- enormous shared floors.
1557, Wwww.crsalud.com) is in the Centro
Buses run from Liberia to Playa
Comercial El Pueblito, signposted from Lizard
Lounge on the road to Cabinas Ruby. Hermosa three times a day (times are
Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm) is always changing) and cost US$0.50. A
in front of the bus station, opposite the parque at taxi will cost you around US$5 from
the bottom of the main road. Playa del Coco.
563
 Guanacaste
Liberia
Despite the busloads of visitors arriving
via the nearby international airport
Guanacaste Province, bordered to every day, the provincial capital of
the north by Nicaragua and the Pacific LIBERIA happily remains unchanged:
Ocean to the west, is distinctly different it’s still the epitome of dignified (if
from the rest of Costa Rica. Though somewhat static) rural life. At present
Costa Rica

these days little remains of the sabanero most travellers use the town simply as a
(cowboy) culture, music and folklore jumping-off point for the national parks
for which the region is famous, there of Rincón de la Vieja and Santa Rosa,
is undeniably something special about an overnight stop to or from the beaches
the place. The landscape is certainly of the Nicoya Peninsula (see p.550) or a
beautiful, even though much of it has break on the way to Nicaragua. It would
Guanacaste

come about essentially through the be no hardship, however, to while away

slaughter of tropical dry forest: the wide a little longer in the “ciudad blanca”
rolling plains and the brooding humps (white city, on account of its white-
of volcanoes are washed in muted earthy washed houses). Everything you might
tones. Its history, too, is distinct: if not need for a relaxing stay of a day or two
for a very close vote in 1824, Guanacaste is here – limited but well-priced accom-
might have been part of Nicaragua. modation, and a couple of nice places to
While it is the province’s beaches eat and drink.
(roughly two-thirds of the Nicoya Penin- Liberia also boasts several lively local
sula is in Guanacaste) that attract the festivals, one of which is in early March,
most visitors, the mud pots and stewing when there’s ten days of parades, bands,
sulphur waters of Parque Nacional fireworks and bull-running. On July 25,
Rincón de la Vieja, and the tropical dry El Día de la Independencia celebrates
forest cover of Parque Nacional Santa Guanacaste’s independence from
Rosa, draw scores of nature aficionados Nicaragua with parades, rodeos, fiestas
to the interior every year. and roving marimba bands.
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 Tourist information The main tourist office has
What to see and do closed, but the owner of the Hotel Liberia (T2666-
0161) can answer any questions about the area,
The town is arranged around its large and provides information and a shuttle service to
Parque Central, properly called Parque Rincón de la Vieja.
Mario Cañas Ruiz. It’s dedicated to
el mes del anexión, the month of the Accommodation
annexation (July), celebrating the all-

Costa Rica
important fact that Guanacaste is not Cabinas El Tucán Blanco Av 4, C 4/6 T2666-
in Nicaragua. This is one of the loveliest 7740, [email protected]. Off the main
central plazas in the whole country, road with parking in front, the large rooms here
boast a/c, clean bathrooms and kitchenettes and
ringed by benches and tall palms that
cable TV. Not much to look at, but the owners are
shade gossiping locals. Its church is lovely and the security top-notch. 5
startlingly modern – somewhat out of

Guanacaste
Hotel La Casona Av 6, C 0 T 2666-2971.
place in this very traditional town. This sleepy hotel is rather dark, but has quite
About 600m away at the very eastern a dignified air owing to the colonial reception
end of town, the colonial Iglesia de la area. Rooms are basic and a bit gloomy, but good
Agonía is more arresting, with a mottled value, including a/c and private cold shower.
yellow facade. On the verge of perpetual Reserve in advance. 5
Hotel Liberia C 0, 75m south of the Parque
collapse – it has had a hard time with
Central T 2666-0161, E hotelliberia@hotmail.
earthquakes – it’s almost never open, but com. Well-established, friendly, hostel-like hotel
you could try shoving the heavy wooden in a historic house – look for the orange exterior.
door and hope the place doesn’t collapse Bare and basic rooms with shared cold-water bath
around you. The town’s most interesting are set around a sunny courtyard. The hotel staff
street is Calle Real (marked as Calle can organize transport to Rincón de la Vieja. Visa
Central on some maps). In the nineteenth accepted; reservation and deposit required in high
season. Dorms 2 , rooms 4
century this was the entrance to Liberia,
Hotel Posada del Tope C 0, 150m south of the
and practically the entire thoroughfare gobernación T&F 2666-3876. Popular, cheap
has now been restored to its original – and option in a beautiful old house. Six basic rooms with
strikingly beautiful – colonial simplicity. fan and shared showers in the old part are clean
but stuffy; rooms across the street in a new annexe
Arrival and information with cable TV cost only slightly more and are set
around a charming courtyard. The manager runs
By air Liberia’s international airport is 12km west of transport to Rincón de la Vieja. Visa and MasterCard
the town. Flights arrive largely from North America, accepted. Old wing 2 , new wing 4
although flights from Europe have been introduced Hotel La Siesta C 6, Av 4/6. T2666-
since a recent overhaul of the airport drastically 2950/3505, [email protected].
increased its size. From here a taxi into Liberia will This pretty hotel centres around an inner courtyard
cost US$15, or there are frequent shuttle buses from complete with fountain and swimming pool.
outside the airport that cost US$0.50. Friendly Tico owners keep things simple, and offer
By bus All buses except those arriving from and free internet and a laundry service; the rooms all
leaving to San José and Peñas Blancas will arrive have a/c and cable TV. 7
at the Terminal Liberia, at the northwestern edge
of town. The Pulmitan Terminal, for San José and Eating
Peñas Blancas services, is one block southeast of
Terminal Liberia. Liberia has several restaurants that are particularly
By car From the northbound Interamericana, turn good for breakfast and lunch. Local treats include
right into town at the major intersection (large natilla (sour cream) eaten with eggs or gallo
enough for traffic lights). This will bring you to the pinto and tortillas. For a real feast, try the various
town centre and the park. Make note of the gas desayunos guanacastecos (Guanacastecan break-
station on the corner too – it is often used as a fasts). For rock-bottom cheap lunches, head for the
landmark. The left-forking road at this intersection stalls in the bus terminal, Las Tinajas or the town’s
takes you to the beaches. various fried-chicken places.
565
 Restaurants both across from the Parque Central. Both have
Los Comales C Real, Av 3/5. A typical soda, ATMs and will exchange traveller’s cheques.
very popular with locals for its generous portions Internet Cybermania (daily 8am–10pm), in a small
of tasty rustic food. Gallo pinto 1500c, casados business centre on the north side of the Parque
2000–3000c. Central, is a/c and cheap, as is the handy Planet
Rancho Dulce C Real, Av 0/2. Small and lovable Internet, on C Real just off the Parque Central (daily
soda serving casados (1500c), sandwiches, 8am–10pm, Sun 9am–9pm). Both cost about
empanadas and refrescos: great for a cheap lunch. US$2/hr.
Costa Rica

You can sit at the tiny outdoor stools (if you have Post office The correo (Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm,
a small bottom) or tables. A reliable choice at any Sat 7.30am–noon) is between Av 3 and Av 5 in the
time of day. white house across from the empty square field
Rincón del Pollo Av Central, 50m west of the bordered by mango trees.
Parque Central. A simple, open place where only
1500c will get you half a roast chicken, tortillas
Moving on
Guanacaste

and salad.
By air Both Sansa and Nature Air run several flights
Drinking and nightlife daily from Liberia airport to the main international
airport near Alajuela.
By bus to La Cruz/Peñas Blancas and Nicaragua
Bars (5.30am, 8.30am, 9am, noon, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm,
Bar Lib On the Interamericana, in the Plaza Santa 6.30pm; 2hr; US$1.25); Nicoya (every 30min
Rosa Centro Comercial. The newest and swankiest 4.30am–8.20pm; 1hr 40min; US$1.25); Playa
bar in town, Bar Lib boasts classic but over-priced Panamá via Playa Hermosa (4.45am, 7.30am,
cocktails (US$5) and deafening music till 2am at 11.30am, 1pm, 3.30pm, 5.30pm; 1hr 15min;
the weekends. US$0.90); Playa Tamarindo (3.50am, 6.10am,
Las Tinajas On the west side of the Parque 8.10am, 10am, 11.10am, 12.45pm, 4.30pm,
Central. The tables on the veranda of this old 6pm; 2hr; US$1.25); Playa del Coco (5.30am,
house are good for watching the goings-on in the 7am, 9.30am, 11am, 12.15pm, 2.30pm, 4.30pm,
parque while enjoying a refresco or cold beer. Basic 6.30pm; 1hr; US$0.75);
casados and excellent hamburgers (2000c) are Puntarenas (5am, then hourly 8.30am–3.30pm;
also served. There’s regular live music; the place is 3hr; US$1.50); San José (hourly 4am–8pm;
basically the town’s best bar. 4hr 30min; US$5); Santa Rosa (take the bus for the
Nicaraguan border and ask to be dropped at the
Clubs park; 40min).
Kurú The town’s main disco, a couple of hundred
metres west of the Interamericana down the road to
the beaches, gets lively with salsa and merengue,
Parque Nacional
especially on weekends and holidays. Rincón de la Vieja
Tsunami Across the road from Kurú and down a
The earth around PARQUE NACIONAL
side street. Another, smaller disco which is dead
apart from Sat nights, is great fun when it’s busy, RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA (daily 8am–
serving international beers for US$2.50. 4pm; US$6; T 2661-8139) northeast of
Liberia, is actually alive and breathing:
Entertainment Volcán Rincón de la Vieja, the park’s
namesake, is still active. Though it last
Liberia’s main Saturday evening activities involve erupted in 1991, rivers of lava continue
the locals parading around the Parque Central in to boil beneath the thin epidermis of
their finery, having an ice cream and maybe going ground, while mud pots (pilas de barro)
to the cinema at the Cine Liberia, in the shopping bubble and puffs of steam rise out of lush
mall a kilometre south of the main Interamericana
foliage, signalling sulphurous subter-
intersection.
ranean springs. The dramatically dry
surrounding landscape, meanwhile,
Directory
varies from rock-strewn savanna to
Exchange Av Central is littered with banks, patches of tropical dry forest and decid-
including Banco Nacional and Banco Costa Rica, uous trees, culminating in the blasted-out
566
vistas of the volcano crater itself. This is
great terrain for camping, riding and
Arrival and information
hiking, with a comfortable, fairly dry There is no public transport to either park entrance,
heat – although it can get damp and although taxis (easily obtainable via your hotel) run
cloudy at the higher elevations around from Liberia for roughly US$20.
the crater. Birders, too, will enjoy Rincón For Sector Pailas Travel through the hamlet of
de la Vieja, as there are more than two Curubandé, 6km north of Liberia along the Intera-
mericana. The 20km road (1000c to pass through

Costa Rica
hundred species in residence.
a private section) is a dirt track and the signpost
modest, so keep your eyes peeled. Hitching is said
What to see and do to be feasible along this road; if you’re driving, a
4WD is recommended year-round, and compulsory
The park has hiking trails for all enegry in the wet season. Transfers from Hotel Posada del
levels, which begin from one of the two Tope and Hotel Liberia (see p.565) are available

Guanacaste
puestos (ranger stations) – Santa María to (US$15), but priority goes to hotel guests.
the east, and Las Pailas to the west. Most For Santa María Go through Liberia’s Barrio La
start from Las Pailas, although the main Victoria in the northeast of the town (ask for the
one – the demanding uphill track to the estadio – the football stadium – from where it’s
volcano’s crater, which can be tackled on a signed 24km drive to the park). The Rinconcito
foot, horseback or a combination of the Lodge is near the park along this stretch. Transfers
two – can be embarked on from both. are available from the hotels, and also the
Rinconcito Lodge.
This is considered one of the best hikes,
if not the best hike, in the country. A
variety of elevations and habitats reveals Accommodation
hot springs, sulphur pools, bubbling mud Most budget travellers stay in Liberia: there is not
pots and fields of purple orchids, plus of much reasonably priced accommodation around
course the great smoking volcano at the the park, and there are no restaurants, so you must
top. It is possible to hike without a guide, depend on the hotels there for food. However, there
but should you wish to organize a guided are a couple of decent options.
trek ask at Las Pailas (T 2661-8139). Camping There are sites (US$2 per person) at both
Alternatively, most hotels offer treks. ranger stations – Santa María is better equipped
Ring ahead before you start out, as the – with pit toilets, showers and grills, but you
must bring your own food and drinking water. Be
trail is often closed due to low visibility
prepared for cold nights, strong winds and fog.
or high winds.
Santa María Lodge T2661-8139. You can stay in
If you don’t fancy the climb, there are the very rustic bunk rooms within the puesto (ring
more gentle walks in the Las Pailas the office at Santa María in advance).
sector, and one in the Santa Maria Rinconcito Lodge On the road to Santa María
sector, that take you to fumaroles and T2666-2764, [email protected]. The
mud pots, and you can also hike to two cheapest option close to the park, this ecofarm has
waterfalls, the cataratas escondidas. plain but good-value cabinas with hot-water shared
From the Las Pailas entrance, there’s or private bath. All-day horseriding and trekking
also another very satisfying walk: a 6km tours on offer (US$35–45), and the owners are a
good source of local advice. Meals and box lunches
circular trail that takes you around some
available. You can camp for free in the grounds if
highly unusual natural features, with
you buy food from the hotel, or for US$5 per person
bubbling mud pots and a mini-volcano if you self-cater. 5
as well as steaming sulphurous vents that
make for a highly atmospheric experi- Parque Nacional
ence. The puesto Santa María is an old
colonial house, rumoured to once be the Santa Rosa
country retreat of US President Lyndon Established in 1971, PARQUE
Johnson, and has some rustic sleeping NACIONAL SANTA ROSA (daily
arrangements (see below). 8am–4pm; US$15; T 2666-5051), 35km
567
 into nicaragua: Peñas Blancas
Peñas Blancas (7am–8pm daily), the main crossing point into Nicaragua, is
emphatically a border post, and not a town. Aim to get here as early as possible;
you’ll be lucky to get through the procedures in less than ninety minutes. Things run
most smoothly if you come with Tica Bus – all passengers are processed together.
Both Costa Rican and Nicaraguan border officials are quite strict. Few travellers
will need a visa for Nicaragua, but it’s worth checking the current situation before
Costa Rica

leaving San José. Exit stamps are given on the Costa Rican side, where there’s
a restaurant and a helpful, organized Costa Rican tourist office (6am–noon &
1–8pm). For travellers enterinng Nicaragua from Costa Rica, there is a fee of US$10,
which increases to US$15 after mid-day. Entry into Costa Rica from Nicaragua
costs US$5. Moneychangers are always on hand and have colones, córdobas and
dollars. After getting your Costa Rican exit stamp, it’s a short walk north to the
Zona Norte

barrier. If you’re arriving from Nicaragua, the last San José–bound bus leaves at
3.30pm (5.30pm Fri–Sun), and the last Liberia bus at 5pm.

north of Liberia, is one of the most the driver well in advance that you want to stop
popular in the country, thanks to its at the park. The entrance hut is signed from the
good trails, great surfing (though poor Interamericana; it is a 7km walk from here to the
campsite and administration/visitors’ centre.
swimming) and prolific turtle-spotting
By car Driving is easy; go north from Liberia on the
opportunities. Interamericana roughly 35km.
Santa Rosa has an amazingly diverse Visitors’ centre This is effectively the main
topography for its size, ranging from reception (T2666-5051, F2666-5020), where you
mangrove swamp to rare tropical dry pay your entrance fee and pick up information.
forest and savanna. With a staggering Camping The camping facilities (US$2 per person,
biodiversity of mammals, birds, amphib- pay at administration centre) are some of the best
ians and reptiles, Santa Rosa is also of in the country. There are two sites: La Casona
prime interest to anyone keen to do some campground has bathrooms and grill pits; Playa
Naranjo, on the beach (and only open outside the
wildlife-spotting. Jaguars and pumas
turtle-nesting season), has picnic tables and grill
prowl the park, but you’re unlikely to see pits, a ranger’s hut with outhouses and showers
them. Coati, coyotes and peccaries, on and apparently, a boa constrictor in the roof. Watch
the other hand, are often found snuffling your fires (the area is a tinderbox in the dry season),
around watering holes. Between July and take plastic bags for your food, do not leave
November (peaking in Sept–Oct), the anything edible in your tent (it will be stolen by
sight of hundreds of Olive Ridley turtles scavenging coati) and carry plenty of water.
(lloras) nesting on Playa Nancite puts all Food Acquire food before entering the park. Drinks
other animal sightings into obscurity; a are sold at the visitors’ centre, but little else.
maximum of twenty visitors are allowed
access to the nesting area each day (call
ahead to reserve your place). Though too
rough for swimming, the picturesque
beaches of Naranjo and Nancite, about Zona Norte
12km down a bad road from the admin-
istration centre, are popular with serious Costa Rica’s Zona Norte (“northern
surfers. zone”) spans the hundred-odd kilome-
tres from the base of the Cordillera
Central to just short of the mauve-blue
Arrival and information
mountains of southern Nicaragua. Cut
By bus Buses from Liberia (use the Peñas off from the rest of the country by a lack
Blancas/La Cruz service) run past the entrance. Tell of roads, the Zona Norte has developed
568
 a unique character, with independent- visitors; between Boca de Arenal and
minded farmers and Nicaraguan Los Chiles in the far north, on the other
refugees making up large segments of the hand, there is a real shortage of accom-
population. Many people from the north modation, though fuel and food are in
hold a special allegiance to, and pride in, good supply.
their area. The landscape is special, too:
less obviously picturesque than many La Fortuna

Costa Rica
parts of the country, the entire region That the north attracts the numbers of
nonetheless has a distinctive appeal, visitors it does is mainly due to majestic
with lazy rivers snaking across steaming Volcán Arenal, one of the most active
plains and flop-eared cattle languishing volcanoes in the Western hemisphere.
beneath the riverside trees. Just 6km away, LA FORTUNA DE
Most travellers only venture up here to SAN CARLOS, or La Fortuna, as it is

Zona Norte
see the perpetually active Volcán Arenal. more often called, was until recently
To the east is the humid Sarapiquí a simple agricultural town but has
area, with its tropical forest ecolodges boomed beyond recognition due to its
and research stations of La Selva and perfect location as a jumping-off point
Rara Avis. Further north, the remote for volcano-based activities. There’s not
flatlands are home to the increasingly much to do in the town town itself except
accessible Refugio Nacional de Vida book tours, eat, sleep and look at views
Silvestre Caño Negro, which harbours of the volcano – when you can see it; the
an extraordinary amount of birdlife. summit can be shrouded in clouds for
There’s a serviceable bus network, days at a time, and from town glimpses
though if you’re travelling outside the of rolling lava are often scarce. Practi-
La Fortuna or Sarapiquí areas, you cally speaking, La Fortuna has excellent
should consider renting a car. The area bus connections, and is something of a
around Arenal is best equipped for transport hub for the whole region.

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 As with other high-traffic areas, connect with the infrequent return bus,
beware of opportunistic theft in La your only option is to hitch back with
Fortuna: you’re not likely to experience other park visitors.
anything too malicious, but don’t walk
around alone late at night, and avoid Hot springs
“guides” offering their services on the There are three lodges, all approximately
street. 13km west of La Fortuna, offering
Costa Rica

visitors the opportunity to watch the

What to see and do volcano’s pyrotechnics while soaking in
hot springs – but you may pay through
The natural wonders of the region the nose for the privilege. Of the three,
lend themselves to both active and El Tabacón (daily 10am–10pm; US$60,
relaxing pursuits; from tough hikes to US$40 after 7pm; T 2391-1900, W www
Zona Norte

relaxing bathing opportunities, there is .tabacon.com) is the most expen-

something for everyone. sive. Baldi Hot Springs is slightly less
pretentious (daily 10am–10pm; US$25;
Volcán Arenal E [email protected]). Unoffi-
Volcán Arenal is spectacular from afar, cially, you can book for this one through
whether admired from La Fortuna, the Aventuras Arenal (see opposite) for
where its slopes are still a lush green, or roughly US$6 less.
from the barren and desolate western
face, where the foliage has been gradu- Cataratas La Fortuna
ally scorched by the ash and lava that You can make an excursion to La Fortu-
tumble down the side every day. You can na’s stunning waterfalls (cataratas
get a bit closer to the action by heading La Fortuna), which sit amidst some
to the Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal beautiful jungle terrain just 6km from
(daily 8am–4pm; US$10); though fences the south side of the church in town. A
are in place to keep you from tackling taxi journey (US$8) can take you right to
the volcano’s slopes, the park does have the entrance office, or it’s a good uphill
some good trails, including the four- trek on foot. Once in, it is a steep climb
kilometre “Tucanes” trail that passes down a winding overgrown path and a
through the section of forest flattened gruelling return journey, but the water-
by the 1968 eruption. You can’t visit the falls are well worth the effort. From the
park after dark except by taking one of entrance to the cataratas also begins a
the night tours that leave La Fortuna hardcore 5km hike up Cerro Chato,
every evening at about 3 or 4pm (see a smaller volcanic peak tha clings to
opposite for operators). Although most Arenal’s skirts, and offers views of its big
tours run even when it’s cloudy, none brother.
offers refunds if you don’t see anything,
so you might want to wait for a clear Arrival and information
evening before signing up.
Travelling to the park independently, By bus Buses stop in front of the Parque Central,
the 12km taxi ride from La Fortuna to just east of the church.
the west side of the volcano will cost Internet Available next to Jacamar, opposite the
church (US$1/hr).
roughly US$35, so unless you’re in a
Laundry Wash and dry at the service a block
group, it’s actually cheaper to take a before La Choza Inn (US$3/kg).
tour. Alternatively, the bus to Tilarán Taxis There’s a rank on the south side of the
can drop off at the park entrance for Parque Central. They rarely (if ever) use their
US$1, though the return journey can meters, so agree on a price before getting in and
be a bit tricky – unless you manage to beware of overcharging.
570
 Tour and activity operators in La Fortuna
Price competition between tour agencies in La Fortuna is fierce. You may save a
few dollars by going with the cheapest agency, but you could end up on a badly
organized tour with under-qualified guides, or no lunch – get as many details as
you can before you put down your cash. In general, go with an established tour
operator, and not one of the freelance “guides” who may approach you, some of
whom have been involved in serious incidents over the years.

Costa Rica
Aventuras Arenal 150m east of the soccer pitch (T2479-9133, W www
.arenaladventures.com). Professionally run trips by this reliable operator, plus
transport arrangements to just about anywhere in the country.
Desafío Tours West of the church T2479-9464, Wwww.desafiocostarica
.com. Friendly, efficient, community-aware rafting specialists who run tours
(US$65) on the Río Toro, kayak trips on the Río Arenal (US$55) and demanding

Zona Norte
guided hikes up Cerro Chato (US$45). Their Monteverde transfer includes a lakeside
horse ride (US$65), and they can sort out flights, tours and accommodation
anywhere in the country.
Eagle Tours In the reception area of La Choza Inn T2479-9091, Wwww.eagletours
.net. Highly recommended tours with well-qualified guides. Volcano tours (US$45)
include the entrance fee to the hot spring of your choice, and they have a good
day-trip to Caño Negro (see p.573; US$45), as well as jeep-boat-jeep transfers to
Monteverde (see p.572; US$22). Discounts available for hotel guests.
Jacamar Next to Lava Rocks restaurant T 2479-9767, Wwww.arenaltours.com.
Operator running an Arenal night tour (US$25), trips to Caño Negro (see p.573;
US$50) and rafting excursions on the Río Peñas Blancas. Their boat-and-taxi
transfer to Monteverde costs US$23 and takes two and a half to three hours.

Cabinas Las Tinajas 100m north and 25m west of

Accommodation the central park T2479-9308, Ecbtinajas@gmail
Budget accommodation is everywhere in La .com. Small complex of four clean, well-furnished,
Fortuna, though the lodges around the periphery airy cabinas equipped with cable TV, fan and good
are, without exception, for the moneyed traveller. hot-water bath. There are rocking chairs on the
Arenal Backpackers 500m west of the terrace, and the owners are very friendly: it adds up
town centre T2479-7000, Wwww to a good value. 5
.arenalbackpackersresort.com. Dorms and rooms Gringo Pete’s 3000m southeast of the central park
are spacious, clean and bright with firm mattresses, T2479-8521, [email protected].
there’s free internet and a pool area, and it’s got its Another fantastically cheap option with comfortable
own in-house tour operators. Potentially the best dorms and private rooms, and sociable communal
hostel in the country. Dorms 3 , rooms 7 areas. Dorms 1 , doubles 2
Cabinas Dorothy 500m south of the town centre, La Choza Inn 300m west of the church T2479-
just past the bullring T2479-8068. A little far out 9091. In a quiet pocket of the town, the little
of town and a bit tatty-looking, but these cabinas wooden dorms and private rooms in these cabinas
are friendly, secure and very comfortable. 2 are clean and well maintained. Internet is free
Cabinas El Paysaje 100m north of the church and there is a full communal kitchen. Guests get
T 2479-9007. Lovely owner with very basic a discount at Eagle Tours, which is run out of the
accommodation, but solo travellers get private reception area. Dorms 3 , rooms 4
rooms and hot-water bath without paying extra. La Posada Inn 300m east of the central park
Well located in a quiet but central part of town. 3 T2479-9793, [email protected]. Incredibly
Cabinas Sissy 100m south and 125m west of the cheap rooms owned by a charming and hospitable
central park T2479-9256, Ehotelreyarenal family. Communal garden, private parking and an
@hotmail.com. Basic budget travellers’ hangout attractive garden. Dorms 3 , doubles 4
– friendly and clean, with a variety of rooms with Sleep Inn Guesthouse 350m southwest of the
fan and private or shared hot-water bath; some central park T2394-7033, Ecarlossleepinn
have cable TV. There’s also a simple shared kitchen. @hotmail.com. Renowned for larger-than-life owner
You can camp, too. Camping 1 , doubles 4 Carlos, aka “Mr Lava-Lava”. He offers volcano tours
571
 for the best price in town, and you can’t help feel noon, 3pm, 4.30pm, 5.30pm, 6.30pm); San José
like part of the family as soon as you arrive, even if (12.30pm, 2.30pm; 4hr; US$3), via San Carlos
the living quarters are rather basic. 2 (1hr 30min); Tilarán (8am, 4.30pm; 3hr 30min;
US$1.40).
Eating and drinking
Los Chiles
Choza de Laurel 200m west of the Parque Central Few tourists make it to LOS CHILES,
on the main road. A lively, atmospheric place to
a border settlement just 3km from
Costa Rica

enjoy high-quality, albeit expensive, meals (most

mains US$8 plus). The food is delicious, and you
Nicaragua. There are really only two
won’t leave hungry. reasons to come: to try to rent a boat
Lava Bar and Grill On the main road 50m or horse to go to Caño Negro, 25km
before the church. By day a restaurant with well- downstream on the Río Frío (see
prepared and reasonably priced wraps, salads opposite), or to cross the Nicaraguan
Zona Norte

and light meals (US$5–7), this is also a trendy border, although the majority of travel-
evening spot. lers still cross at Peñas Blancas (see
Lava Rocks Opposite the church. Not to be p.568). Two luxury buses per day run to
confused with Lava Bar and Grill, this admittedly Los Chiles from C 12, Av 7/9, in San José
rather bland-looking place is one of the best in (5.30am & 3.30pm; 5hr), stopping at the
town for delicious, well-priced meals (casados from
small bus station. Also pulling in here are
US$5) and heartbreakingly nice staff.
La Parada Opposite the bus stop on the central
the almost hourly buses from San Carlos
park. Perfect for an early breakfast, this popular (Ciudad Quesada). Return buses to San
soda is a fine spot to sit and watch the world. The José leave Los Chiles at 5am and 3pm.
casados are hardly inspiring, but they are big, filling Although Los Chiles has no official
and only US$4. tourist information, everyone in town
Salta Mar Opposite Arenal Backpackers. Dinner knows the current bus schedules and
might be a touch over budget, but the breakfasts the times of the river-boat to the Nicara-
are uplifting (US$3–4) and the fresh-fruit smoothies guan border, though you’ll need Spanish
win first prize for both taste and presentation. to ask around. Servicios Turísticos Caño
Negro (T 2471-1438), based at the
Moving on Cabinas Jabirú, a block west and north
of the bus station, can give some general
By bus to: Monteverde (take the 8am bus to
tourist information and runs a variety of
Tilarán, changing there for the 12.30pm bus
to Monteverde; 6–8hr; US$3); Puerto Viejo de
trips. You can change dollars and travel-
Sarapiquí (take the bus to San Carlos/Ciudad ler’s cheques at the Banco Nacional on
Quesada (1hr 30min; US$1.20) at 5am, 8am, noon, the north side of the soccer pitch (Mon–
3pm; change there for Sarapiquí (3hr; US$2.20) at Fri 8am–3.30pm); it also has an ATM
4.40am (Fri only), 6am, 9.15am (Sun only), 10am, accepting Visa/Plus/Cirrus/MasterCard.

la fortuna to monteverde: JEEP-boat-jeep

transfers
By far the most interesting way to travel between two of the country’s major
attractions, La Fortuna and Monteverde (see p.539), is by a “jeep–boat–jeep”
transfer, a time-saving and spectacularly pretty connection. The trip takes two to
three hours depending on road conditions, and shows off both the breathtaking
mountain pastures of Monteverde, and your first (or last, depending on the
direction) glimpse of majestic Volcán Arenal. Prices depend entirely on where you
book the journey, so shop around – many hotels and tour operators can arrange
them. The least expensive trip available at the time of writing was at Arenal
Backpackers in La Fortuna (see p.571; US$18). If you are travelling the other way,
Pensión Santa Elena (see p.537) can book it for cheapest.

572
 into Nicaragua: los chiles
Currently, the only way to reach Nicaragua from the Los Chiles crossing is by boat
(1hr) on the Río Frío: one to three daily services leave the docks in Los Chiles for
San Carlos de Nicaragua (see p.465); departures depend on demand and tides. You
need to take care of any Nicaraguan visa issues in San José, and before you try to
cross (though few nationalities now need visas). Make sure that the Nicaraguan
border patrol, 3km upriver from Los Chiles, stamps your passport, as you will need

Costa Rica
proof of entry when leaving Nicaragua. You’ll also need some cash upon arrival in
San Carlos; change a few colones for córdobas at the Los Chiles bank. From San
Carlos it’s also possible to cross the lake to Granada and on to Managua. There
is a US$9 charge to enter into Nicaragua and you should note the border crossing
closes at 5pm.

Zona Norte
Refugio Nacional de Entrance US$10, payable at the Ranger Station.
They have information on the refuge and can advise
Vida Silvestre Caño on transport (T2471-1309)
Negro Guides Hiring an experienced guide to the area
is well worth the money. If you are travelling
The largely pristine REFUGIO independently, ring the ranger station in advance to
NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE arrange this.
CAÑO NEGRO (daily 8am–4pm;
US$10, included in tour prices; T 2471- Puerto Viejo de
1309), 25km west of Los Chiles, is
one of the best places in the Americas
Sarapiquí
to view huge concentrations of both Steamy, tropical and carpeted with fruit
migratory and indigenous birds, along plantations, the eastern part of the Zona
with mammalian and reptilian river Norte bears more resemblance to the hot
wildlife. Until recently its isolation – it’s and dense Caribbean lowlands than the
192km from San José – kept it well off plains of the north and, despite the toll
the beaten track, though nowadays of deforestation, still shelters some of the
more and more tours are visiting the best-preserved premontane rainforest
area (you can visit on an excursion from in the country. The largest settlement,
La Fortuna – see p.571 for operators PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ, is
– or any of the larger hotels in the Zona principally a river transport hub and a
Norte); getting there independently is place for the region’s banana, coconut,
still fairly complicated. and pineapple plantation workers to
stock up on supplies and have a beer or
two. You will find most, if not all, of the
Arrival and information
area’s budget accommodation here, as
By boat It’s possible to rent a boat for travel down well as some excellent river-based activ-
the Río Frío from Los Chiles (US$75–100). ities and impressive hiking trails.
By bus Buses officially leave from Los Chiles at There are two options when it comes
5am & 2pm (1hr), but it is worth confirming hours to getting here from the Valle Central.
back as times are typically liable to change. The The western route, which takes a
ranger station will have information on this, and has little more than three hours, goes via
the facilities to book a taxi for you.
Varablanca and the La Paz waterfall,
Accommodation It’s possible to stay in the Ranger
Station (T2471-1309; US$6). Camping (US$5,
passing the hump of Volcán Barva. This
payable to the ranger) is permitted, but no formal route offers great views of velvety green
facilities are provided. There is some very basic hills clad with coffee plantations, which
accommodation available in the village of Caño turn, eventually, into rainforest. It’s
Negro also. faster (1hr–1hr 30min), but marginally
573
 less scenic, to travel via the Guápiles Mi Lindo Sarapiquí On the corner of the football
Highway. The region receives a lot of pitch as you enter town T2766-6281/6074. A good
rain – as much as 4500mm annually budget option, with clean, spacious rooms, private hot
showers and a friendly atmosphere. The restaurant
– so wet-weather gear is essential.
attached is very popular, and also houses an internet
café (US$0.80/hr). It is worth noting that if you arrive
Arrival and information before 10am you will not be able to get in. 5

By bus The bus station is in the centre of town on

Costa Rica

the main road by the football pitch. Eating

Exchange Banco Nacional (Mon–Fri 8.30am–3pm),
Nearly all hotels have restaurants open to guests and
at the far northern end of C Principal, exchanges
general public, but Soda Llyxi, on the road into town
traveller’s cheques and dollars.
10m before the football pitch, really stands out. Clean
Internet Internet La Viña (US$0.80/hr), in the
and bright open-fronted soda complete with wooden
bookstore adjacent to La Viña supermarket, whose
Zona Norte

benches and a TV and dishing up delicious gallo

sign is visible across the football pitch from the
pinto for US$2 and rocket fuel coffee for US$0.40.
bus station.
Tour operators Souvenir Río Sarapiquí is opposite
the Banco Nacional on the main road (T 2766- Moving on
6727 [email protected]). The owner
is a reliable source of information on all that the By bus to: San Carlos/Ciudad Quesada, for
region has to offer. They offer good rates on rafting, buses to La Fortuna, Monteverde and points west
kayaking, hiking and, naturally, canopy tours. Aguas (5.30am, 8.30am, 10.30am, 12.15pm, 2.30pm,
Bravas (T2292-2072 or 2776-6524, Wwww 4pm, 6pm, 6.30pm, 7pm; 3hr); San José, Terminal
.aguas-bravas.co.cr) is a great company for rafting del Caribe (5.30am, 7am, 8am, 11am, 1.30pm,
trips. Their offices are 100m down from Banco 3.30pm, 5.30pm; 1hr 30min–2hr).
Nacional towards the river.
Around Puerto Viejo
Accommodation de Sarapiquí
B&B Andrea Cristina 1km west of town The lush Caribbean climate and vegeta-
on the road to Chilamate T2766-6265, tion in the area around Sarapiquí make
W www.andreacristina.com. A veritable tropical for a striking environment, so it makes
haven, with lovely, quirky cabins amongst the jungle sense that the activities on offer are of an
plants. The hospitable owner has a wealth of infor- outdoor nature.
mation on conservation projects, and offers river
and trekking tours. 6 Rara Avis
Hotel Bambú Above the bus station opposite the
The incredible and completely isolated
football pitch T2766-6005. This centrally located
hotel has a wonderful pool, a reasonable restaurant
private rainforest reserve of Rara Avis
and clean rooms with private hot showers. However, (T 2253-0844 or 2764-3131, W www
the noise from the main road can be overpowering, .rara-avis.com), 17km south of
and for a similar price you can stay at one of the Puerto Viejo, also acts as an expensive
luxury lodges on the road to San Miguel. 8 tourist lodge and a research station,
treat yourself

La Quinta Lodge 7km west of Sarapiquí, and 5km east of La Virgen, 1.5km
up a side road served by the occasional bus T 2761-1052, W www
.quintasarapiqui.com. On the banks of the Río Sardinal, this comfortable
lodge has 26 rooms, all with ceiling fans and hot water, set in scattered
bungalows equipped with balconies and rocking chairs. Activities include
swimming in the pool or river, exploring the lodge’s own cultivated lands,
its butterfly garden and the on-site exhibition, “Jewels of the Rainforest”.
There’s a pleasant, pricey outdoor restaurant, and biking, horseriding and
birdwatching can all be arranged by the cheerful staff. 8

574
accommodating student groups and the regular visitor does not, and you
volunteers from around the world whose will find yourself paying roughly US$90
aim is to develop rainforest products a night for very basic living quarters.
– orchids, palms and so forth – as However, visiting on half-day guided
crops for the use of local communities. treks (US$30) through the extensive
It offers one of the most thrilling and trails is a worthy option if you can’t
authentic eco-experiences in Costa Rica, afford the fees. Call or reserve online in

Costa Rica
featuring both primary rainforest and advance.
some secondary cover. The rich array of
wildlife, both flora and fauna, can’t fail Río Sarapiquí
to impress, and you could meander the The roaring Río Sarapiquí used to be the
excellent trail network for days. most important trade route in northern
Visiting the park is usually a pre- Costa Rica, ferrying coffee and bananas

The Zona Sur

meditated venture, requiring at least between Nicaragua, southern Costa Rica
one night’s stay in one of the lodges, and and overseas. Its main job nowadays is
recommended perhaps only to the true to satisfy the adrenaline-fuelled desires
nature enthusiast, or someone with deep of even the most adventurous visitors,
pockets. Most people organize their trip as a prime location for some of the most
here before arriving in Costa Rica as it invigorating white-water rafting and
takes a great deal of planning: the route kayaking in the country. Visit Souvenir
alone up to Rara Avis involves getting to Río Sarapiquí (see p.574) or Aguas Bravas
the village Las Horquetes, either by taxi (see p.574) to see about arranging trips.
or bus from Puerto Viejo, where you
will meet a pre-booked tractor that will
take you the rest of the 15km journey.
Both students and visitors are required
to book in advance, as space is limited The Zona Sur
and very costly: lodges in the park (the
only option) cost in the region of US$50 Costa Rica’s Zona Sur (“southern zone”)
per person per night, minimum (rates is the country’s least-known region, both
include all meals, transport to and from for Ticos and for international travellers,
Las Horquetas, and guided walks). although tourism has begun to increase
in recent years. Geographically, it’s a
Estación Biológica La Selva diverse area, ranging from the agricul-
A fully equipped research station, tural heartland of the Valle de El General
Estación Biológica La Selva, 93km to the high peaks of the Cordillera de
northeast of San José and 4km southwest Talamanca. South of Cerro el Chirripó,
of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (T 2766- one of the highest peaks in Central
6565, in San José T 2240-6696, W www America, the cordillera falls away into the
.ots.ac.cr), is probably the best place to lowlands of the Valle de Diquis and the
visit in the Sarapiquí region, especially coffee-growing Valle de Coto Brus, near
if you are a botany student or have a the border with Panama. Climatically,
special interest in the scientific life of the Osa Peninsula, Golfito and Golfo
a rainforest. Like Rara Avis, it is also Dulce experience rain even during the
a superb birder’s spot, with more than dry season, and during the wettest part of
four hundred species of indigenous and the year (Oct–Dec), spectacular thunder-
migratory birds. storms canter in from the Pacific.
While the research students and scien- The region’s chief draw is the Osa
tists who come here receive heavily Peninsula, home to Parque Nacional
subsidized accommodation and meals, Corcovado, one of the country’s prime
575
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rainforest hiking destinations, and the fishing village, it has of late begun to
remote and picturesque Bahía Drake. expand dramatically. The coastal areas to
More accessible, the Playa Dominical the south, still largely unspoilt stretches
area of the Pacific coast is a surfing of beach and rainforest, are rapidly
destination of tremendous tropical being bought up by hungry property
beauty. Golfito, the only town of any developers and hotel chains. The fear,
size, isn’t particularly exciting, though expressed by many locals, that the area
it has improved since being made a tax- is destined to become the country’s next
free zone for goods from Panama. Manuel Antonio – a once pristine area,
now massively overdeveloped – seems
Dominical about to be realized. Despite its recent
DOMINICAL, 44km south of Quepos growth, though, the town remains
(see p.546), probably represents the face relatively small-scale, with just a few
of things to come along this stretch of dirt track roads. Surfing is the big draw;
the Pacific coast. Previously a secluded thousands of (mainly American) visitors
576
flock in every year to ride the beach mezzanines and an al fresco kitchen. Some rooms
break during the day before heading to have hot water. A minor downside: while very
the town’s numerous beachfront bars. peaceful, its bucolic location makes it prone to
uncomfortably large spiders. Dorms 2 , doubles 4
Swimming is ill advised in the area due
San Climente Inn On the main road just before
to strong riptides. the right turn down to the beach T 2787-0026.
Wooden cabins are simple, clean and secure. You
Arrival and information pay more for hot water, a/c and sea views. 5

Costa Rica
Tortilla Flats On the beach T2787-0033,
By bus Buses travel the length of the strip before [email protected]. Popular surfers’ hotel with
turning at the end and coming back the same way brightly decorated en-suite rooms and a beachfront
in order to leave town. The bus stop is opposite the bar where crowds gather every evening to watch
telecommunications building at the southern end the sunset. 5
of town.

The Zona Sur

Internet Access at the Arena y Sol hotel and
restaurant on the main street (US$2/hr).
Eating and drinking
Tour operators You can rent or buy surfboards at The Back Porch In a little cluster of huts at the
Jungle Jive Surf Camp (T2316-0651, Wwww entrance to the village T2322-1968. This café
.junglejivesurfcamp.com; US$40/2hr), which runs serves up real cappuccino (1000c), with soy milk
from Blowfish, a shop about halfway along the main if you’re that way inclined, and delicious bagels
road. They sell beach clothing, too. Dominical Surf (1500–2500c). The lovely American owner will
and Adventures (T8839-8542, Wwww make you feel right at home.
.dominicalsurfadventures.com) also rents boards Maracatú Funky little restaurant roughly in the
and has information on a number of tours in the middle of the drag opposite the San Climente Inn
area, including rapelling, paragliding and rafting. offering a mouth-watering selection of vegetarian
Tourist information Southern Expeditions and fish dishes in the 3000–6000c range. Wed is
(T 2787-0110, Wwww.southernexpeditionscr Reggae Night, and on Tues it hosts an open jam
.com), at the northern end of town, gives good session.
impartial advice on the area as a whole. Soda Nanyoya At this breezy, open-walled barn-
cum-resto tucked away behind the town’s fruit
Accommodation stand you may have to queue for a table to get
the freshest orange juice you’ll ever taste and
Dominical is full of hotels, but those geared towards yummiest breakfast in town. Blissfully low prices
the budget traveller and surfer are not of a high (gallo pinto 1000c).
standard. It is worth spending a few extra pennies Tortilla Flats At the Tortilla Flats hotel. The best
if you can. spot in town to watch the sun set while nursing a
Arena y Sol Along the main drag just before cool beer (happy hour 4–6pm). A tasty menu offers
the right turn down to the beach T 2787-0140, typical and American food from 1500c.
E [email protected]. Very clean, modern rooms
– sleeping up to five – with a/c and cable TV. Moving on
Internet is free for guests, and breakfast is included.
The pool provides blessed relief from the heat. 7 By bus to: Quepos (7.30am, 8am, 10.30am,
Camping Antorchas Just off the beach road 1.45pm, 4pm, 5pm; 2hr); Palmar (4:30am, 10.30am;
towards Dominical Backpackers Wwww 2hr) buses run from here to Bahía Drake and Puerto
.campingantorchas.com. This campsite has a Jiménez; San Isidro (6.45am, 7.15am, 2.30pm,
kitchen, free parking and surfboard rental. 1 3.30pm; 1hr); Buses depart from San Isidro to San
Dominical Backpackers At the northern end of José twice daily. Times change frequently so check
the beach strip T2787-0026. This place is popular with one of the hotels for up-to-date schedules.
with die-hard surfers looking for nothing more than
a place to rest when it’s too dark to surf. It’s well Bahía Drake
situated and one of the cheapest options in town,
but the little rooms are dark and of pretty poor The BAHÍA DRAKE (pronounced
quality. Security isn’t brilliant but you can lock up “Dra-kay”) is one of the most stunning
your bag in reception. Dorms 2 – and remote – areas in Costa Rica,
Piramys T2787-0196. Feels like a hippy commune, with the blue wedge of Isla del Caño, a
with a jumble of attractive but basic rooms, airy prime snorkelling destination, floating
577
 just off the coast and fiery-orange Pacific 7pm, but it is unwise to be travelling that late as
sunsets. The tiny hamlet of Agujitas, on you could well end up stranded in Rincón, essen-
tially a hostel-free intersection. If you can afford it,
the bay 10km south of Bahía Drake town,
a taxi to Sierpe from San Isidro costs US$15 and
makes a wonderful base for the majority
from there you can take a river taxi (2hr) to Bahía
of travellers that come to the area to Drake for US$30. From the south, there is a bus
explore Parque Nacional Corcovado, from La Palma to Drake (1hr 30min) at 11.30am
which sits on the southwest corner of the and another at 1.30pm. Rumour has it there is also
Costa Rica

Osa Peninsula – the park’s San Pedrillo one that leaves at 5pm. There is also a colectivo (a
entrance is within walking distance, and sort of open-back truck-taxi) that runs to La Palma
hikers can combine serious trekking from Puerto Jiménez, starting at 6am, last one at
roughly 4pm.
with serious comfort at either end of
Tourist information The tourist office, set back
their trip by staying at one of the upscale from the beach just next to the Corcovado Founda-
rainforest ecolodges that have sprung up
The Zona Sur

tion (T8818-9962, Einfo@corcovadoexpeditions

around the park in recent years .net), has information on a range of tours, including
Brave is the person who tackles the trips to Isla del Caño, mangroves and canopy tours
buses in this area; they run very infre- and entry into Corcovado. It also has unreliable
quently and without any real schedule, internet access. The Fondación Corcovado
so it’s probably worth coming by car if (T2297-3013, Wwww.corcovadofoundation
.org), a volunteer organization set up to maintain
you want to explore around here. This
the park, improve local amenities and rally against
said, the roads are frightful and littered encroaching developers, maintains a beachfront
with river crossings, so be careful and office that doubles as an unofficial tourist informa-
ask local advice, especially if there’s tion and has a wealth of information about park
been a lot of rain. etiquette and practicalities.

Arrrival and information Accommodation

By bus Two buses a day pass through Bahía Drake Nearly all the accommodation listed here offers
from Rincón. There may be one passing as late as tours, from snorkelling to horseriding, in the region

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578
 of US$75. All have cold water unless otherwise Restaurante Jade Mar In Agujitas T 2822-8595.
stated. Camping on the beach is frowned upon, The only real restaurant outside of the lodges, this
though many people do it; don’t leave any litter if open-sided strip-lit place is always busy with locals
you do. Unless otherwise specified, all the places and visitors. The big menu offers everything from
listed here are in the settlement of Agujitas. lobster (US$20) to lasagna (US$4).
Cabinas Jade Mar 200m up from the beach
T 2384-6681, Wwww.jademarcr.com. This pretty Moving on
hostel boasts lovely sea views through the jungle,

Costa Rica
hammocks and a nice communal deck. By bus Leaving the village of Agujitas, there are
Dorms 3 –4 , doubles 4 buses at 4:30am and 12:30pm to Rincón, where
Cabinas Manolo At the bottom of the last hill connections run to San Isidro and San José. The
coming into Agujitas T 2885-9114, W www Rincón service also goes onto La Palma, where you
.cabinasmanolo.com. Rooms at this friendly can pick up connections to Puerto Jiménez.
Tico-run hostel are small and a bit musty,

The Zona Sur

although clean and brightly coloured, and most
Golfito
have a little balcony with hammock. Tours on
offer for US$75. 2 –3 The former banana port of GOLFITO,
Jardin Corcovado In Bahía Drake. Opened so just 33km north of the Panamanian
close to printing that it didn’t have a phone line, border, stretches along the water at the
this family-run hostel just up from the beach offers cusp of the glorious Golfo Dulce. The
spotless rooms with tiled floors and high ceilings. 3 shadow of the Osa Peninsula shimmers
in the distance, and everywhere the
Eating vegetation has the soft muted look
of the tropics. The town’s history is
Mar y Bosque In Agujitas. Specializing in delicious
fruit juices and pancakes as well as pinto (US$3),
inextricably intertwined with the giant
this beautiful open-air soda overlooks a butterfly- United Brands company, which first
filled garden and the sea through the trees. set up here in 1938. When it pulled out
Esteban, the son of the owner, offers a reliable and in a hurry in 1985, it created a social
very informative trip into the Corcovado reserve vacuum, and Golfito became known
(T 2311-7402). as one of the most unsavoury towns in
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579
 all Costa Rica. These days the area is Wwww.happydazecostarica.com. The Californian
steadily improving, thanks primarily to owner has allowed his surfer attitude to flow into
a government incentive that established this little hostel with shared kitchen and TV room,
and welcoming, albeit rather shambolic, dorms. He
Golfito as a tax-free zone (depósito libre)
offers waterfall and fishing trips, and surf lessons
for imports from Panama. South of the for US$20. Discounts for long stays and in the low
depósito libre, and the more affluent part season. 2
of town, is the pueblo civil, where you’ll Samoa del Sur On the main road between the
find good-value hotels and sodas, as well
Costa Rica

zona americana and the pueblo civil T2775-0233,

as the lancha (ferry) across the Golfo F2775-0573, [email protected]. Fourteen
Dulce to Puerto Jiménez and the Osa spacious, though slightly gloomy, rooms on the water,
Peninsula. There isn’t a huge amount to with a large and rather raucous bar/restaurant, a
favourite for US marines on leave. 5
do in Golfito, but it is a pleasant enough
place to stay if you need somewhere to
The Zona Sur

stop for the night if you’re waiting to Eating and drinking

cross to Puerto Jiménez, or to cross the Buenos Dias In front of the gas station T 2775-
border into Panama. 1124. This cheerful café dishes up gallo pinto for
US$3 amidst real American diner decor with Disney
Arrival and information paraphernalia on the walls.
Hai Pin T2775-0032. All-out Chinese restaurant up
By boat A lancha arrives six times daily (5am– behind Buenos Dias that entices locals and tourists.
4.30pm) from Puerto Jiménez to the tiny muellecito Typical Chinese fare for US$3–5.
(little dock) behind Hotel Golfito. Check in the hotel 8º Latitude Run by an eccentric and charming
for up-to-date schedules. American couple, this is a perfect place for a weary
By bus Services stop by the Banco Nacional. Buy traveller to enjoy a cold beer in friendly surroudings.
your return ticket as soon as you disembark. If you’re around during the Super Bowl, owner Sally
Tour operators Land-Sea Tours (T&F2775- cooks up a feast for drinkers.
1614, [email protected]), on the waterfront
at the southern end of the pueblo civil, organizes a
Directory
wide range of tours, has a book exchange and is an
excellent source of information. Exchange Banco Nacional In the zona americana
will change traveller’s cheques and give cash
Accommodation advances on credit cards, but it’s a tediously slow
process.
Accommodation in Golfito comes in two varieties: Internet Access available on the main street next
swish places catering to businesspeople and to the gas station.
shoppers at the depósito in the zona americana, Post office The correo is right in the centre of the
originally the wealthier part of town and now home pueblo civil (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm).
to the bank and bus station, and decent, basic
rooms in the pueblo civil.
Moving on
Hotel Golfito Directly next to the gas station on the
way into town T2775-0047. Excellent budget hotel By boat to: Puerto Jiménez (5am, 10am, 11am,
in front of the muellecito. Rooms are simple and 1pm, 4pm; 1hr (US$4) or 2hr (US$2) – verify
clean with private cold bathrooms and sturdy fans. times at your hotel before going to the
The communal balcony sits virtually on the water, muellecito.
and has beautiful views across the gulf. 3 –6 By bus to: San José (5am & 1.30pm; 8hr) – if
Mar Y Luna T2775-0901, Emaryluna@racsa you’re getting the 5am bus you’ll have to buy your
.co.cr. 500m before the pueblo civil on the main return ticket in advance.
road. The bright, clean cabins in this hostel have
hot water and great views of the golfo. A 10min Puerto jiménez
walk from the centre of the pueblo civil, it boasts a
renowned seafood restaurant with decking virtually In the extreme southwest of the country,
on the sea. Singles 4 , doubles 5 the Osa Peninsula is home to an area
Happy Daze On the road up towards the post of immense biological diversity, much
office, beyond 8° Latitude T 2775-0058, of it protected by the Parque Nacional
580
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Corcovado. Most visitors to the area base want to arrive in the dark you could take the early
themselves in the tiny, friendly town of bus to Golfito and the lancha from there to Puerto
PUERTO JIMÉNEZ. From here, you Jiménez to arrive in time for the sunset.
Exchange Banco Nacional (Mon–Fri 8.30am–
could feasibly “do” the whole peninsula
3.45pm), on the main road two blocks north of the
in four days, but this would be rushing centre, has an ATM and currency exchange.
it, especially if you want to spend time Internet Café Internet Osa Corcovado (Mon–Fri
walking the trails and wildlife-spotting 8am–8pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–4pm;
at Corcovado – better to allot five to US$2/hr; T2735-5230, Wosacorcovado.com). The
seven days or more. owner gives information as well.
You can pick up the colectivo from Tour operators Escondida Trex (T2735-5210,
Wwww.escondidatrex.com) offers simple and
here to Carate, 43km southwest, or to
excellent-value kayak and dolphin-watching trips
Bahía Drake, from where you can enter
(US$35), and snorkelling and mangrove tours, all by
Corcovado (see p.582). If you’re driving very knowledgeable guides.
yourself, don’t try coming in anything Tourist information Corcovado Information Centre
but a 4WD at any time of year. Though (MINAI; T2735-5036, [email protected])
the roads have been “improved” in is the government body in charge of Corcovado
recent years, it’s still a horrendously National Park, and is manned by friendly rangers. You
bumpy ride. Note too that Puerto must come here to reserve your time in the park (max
5 days/4 nights) if you want to trek independently.
Jiménez is home to the only gas station
on the entire peninsula, so be sure to fill
up before you head out. Accommodation
Jiménez’s hotels are reasonably priced, clean and
Arrival and information basic, and are fast growing in number. Though it’s best
to reserve in the dry season, this may not always be
By bus There’s only one daily bus from San José possible, as phone lines sometimes go down.
Transporte Blanco terminal; it arrives into the bus Cabinas Bosque Mar T2735-5385. By the time
station on the western side of town; if you don’t they finish renovating the TV room and kitchen this
581
 hostel will be enormous. They can organize area Parque Nacional
tours, and the owner is a trained physiotherapist
who hopes to begin offering massages for travellers Corcovado
weary after a day in the park. 4 –5 Created in 1975, PARQUE NACIONAL
Cabinas la Esquina T2735-5328. Comfortable mix CORCOVADO (“hunchback”), 368km
of very cheap dorms and private rooms with shared southwest of San José (daily 8am–4pm;
hot baths on a quiet corner just off the main road. The
US$10; T 2735-5036, E pncorcovado
dueña can ramble on for hours about the importance
@gmail.com), houses 2.5 percent of the
Costa Rica

of protecting the natural habitat. Dorms 2, rooms 2

Hotel Oro Verde T 2735-5241. Rooms are world’s total biodiversity, protecting a
reasonable, if a little dark, with optional hot water fascinating and complex area of land.
and a/c. In-house tour guide Josh is bubbling It’s an undeniably beautiful park, with
with enthusiasm for the national park (day-trips deserted beaches, waterfalls, high
US$45). 2 –3 canopy trees and better-than-average
The Zona Sur

Iguana Iguana T2735-5258. Nine cabins spread wildlife-spotting. Exploring in Corco-

out amongst trees and a leaf-strewn compound,
vado, though, is not for the faint-hearted.
these cabinas with private bathroom are a touch
gloomy but clean. The attached bar is a hotspot at the
The terrain includes sand, riverways,
weekends, with pool tables and log-cabin interior. 2 mangroves, holillo (palm) swamps and
dense forest, although most of it is at
lowland elevations; hikers can expect to
treat yourself

Cabinas Marcelina Along the

spend most of their time on the beach
main road, 200m before the
trails that ring the outer perimeters of the
Banco Nacional T2735-5286,
E [email protected]. This park. The coastal areas of the park receive
comfortable and pristine hotel at least 3800mm of rain a year, with
is an idyllic hideaway from the precipitation rising to about 5000mm
dusty streets, and the perfect in the higher elevations of the interior.
place to relax after a gruelling There’s a dry season (Dec–March),
stint in the national park. All however, and the inland lowland areas,
rooms come with private hot- especially those around the lagoon, can
water bath and a/c; the majority look
be amazingly hot.
onto the sweet breakfast garden
comprising a long wooden table
under a trellis and tropical flowers. What to see and do
Breakfast costs US$4 extra and
must be ordered the night before. 6 The pulpería in the village of Carate,
about 43km from Jiménez, sells basic
foodstuffs; you can also camp here for
a nominal fee. From here it’s a nearly
Eating and drinking
two-hour walk along the beach to the
Restaurante Carolina A hub of activity throughout park entrance at La Leona puesto,
the day, this restaurant bang in the centre of town although you can stop off for refresh-
serves up local dishes for US$3–5. ment en route at the Corcovado and La
Soda Paco Around the corner from the super- Leona tent camps. It’s then a sixteen-
market. A tiny, familiar spot with delicious pinto for kilometre hike – allow six hours, as
1500c and fresh juices.
you have to wind along the beach,
Soda El Ranchito Overlooking the football pitch,
this soda also has a welcoming ambience and good
where it’s slow going – to Sirena, the
hearty breakfasts (1000c). biggest puesto in the park, where you
can stay in the simple lodge, exploring
the local trails around the Río Sirena.
Moving on
If you’re walking from Bahía Drake,
By bus to: San Isidro (5am & 1pm; 6hr); San José you’ll enter the park at San Pedrillo
(5am; 8hr). puesto and walk the 25km to Sirena
By colectivo to: Carate (6am & 1pm; 1hr 30min). from there.
582
 The small hamlet of La Palma, 24km It’s a two-day trek, so you need a tent,
north of Puerto Jiménez, is the starting sleeping bag and mosquito net, and
point for the walk to the Los Patos you must be able to set up camp in the
puesto, a twelve-kilometre hike, much jungle. Fording the Río Sirena, just 1km
of it through hot lowland terrain. beyond the Sirena puesto, is the biggest
You need to arrive at Los Patos soon obstacle. The deepest of all the rivers on
after dawn; if you want to stay in La the peninsula, it has to be crossed with

Costa Rica
Palma and get up early, Cabinas Corco- care and at low tide only: not only does
vado (no phone; 2 ) is a good bet. The it have the strongest out-tow current,
relatively new El Tigre puesto, at the but sharks come in and out in search of
eastern inland entrance to the park, is food at high tide. Get the latest informa-
a good place to have breakfast or lunch tion from the Sirena rangers before you
with the ranger(s) before setting off set out.

The Zona Sur

on the local trails. To get there from The trail across the peninsula from
Jiménez, drive 10km north and take Los Patos to Sirena is 20km long.
the second left, a dirt track, signed to You may want to rest at the entrance,
El Tigre and Dos Brazos. Taxis cost in as this is an immediately demanding
the region of US$10. walk, continuing uphill for about 6–
The El Tigre area, at the eastern 8km and taking you into high, wet and
inland entrance to the park, is gradually dense rainforest – and after that you’ve
becoming more developed, with short still got 14km or so of incredibly hot
walking trails being laid out around lowland walking to go. This is a trail
the puesto. These provide an introduc- for experienced rainforest hikers and
tion to Corcovado without making you hopeful mammal-spotters: taking
slog it out on the marathon trails, and you through the interior, it gives you
it can easily be covered in a morning or a reasonable chance of coming across,
afternoon. for example, a margay, peccaries, or
the tracks of tapirs and jaguars. It’s a
The trails gruelling trek, especially with the hot
The sixteen-kilometre trail from La inland temperatures (at least 26°C,
Leona to Sirena runs just inland from with 100-percent humidity) and the
the beach, which at least makes it easy lack of sea breezes.
to keep your bearings. If you can avoid
anything untoward, you should be able Arrival and information
to do the walk in five to six hours, taking
Accommodation It costs US$2 per night to camp
time to look out for birds. En route, if
in the puestos, or US$6 to sleep in the accommoda-
you’re lucky, you may be able to spot a
tion block at Sirena (plus US$2 reservation fee). You
flock of scarlet macaws, who roost in should bring your own tent, mosquito net, sleeping
the coastal trees, and perhaps monkeys bag, food and water.
as well, particularly white-faced Eating You can either take meals with the rangers
capuchins, which are the most confident (breakfast US$3, lunch and dinner US$6; pay in
and inquisitive of the park’s four breeds colones at the puesto) or bring your own utensils
of monkey. Take lots of sunscreen, a big and use their stove.
hat and at least five litres of water per Tours To increase your chances of seeing some of
the park’s wildlife, it’s well worth investing in the
person – the trail gets very hot, despite
services of a guide: a twelve-hour trek should cost
sea breezes. about US$45.
The really heroic walk in Corco- Visitor information You have to reserve a
vado, all 25km of it, is from Sirena to space in Corcovado in advance – this will
San Pedrillo – the stretch along which include meals and either camping space or
you’ll see the most impressive trees. lodging at the puesto of your choice. To reserve,
583
 Into Panama: Paso Canoas
This crossing is open 24 hours a day. The migración is on the Costa Rican
side, next to the Tracopa bus terminal. For travel into Panama you need to pick
up a tourist card (not necessary for UK travellers, but required for most other
nationalities; US$5). You may have a hefty wait, so arrive early.
From here you pass over to the Panama immigration post southwest of town. If
you get on a San José–David–Panama City Tica Bus in San José you get pushed to
Costa Rica

the front of the queue, as all international bus passengers are processed together.
You may be required to produce proof of onward travel from Panama of a date
within three months.
David, the first city of any size in Panama, is about ninety minutes beyond the
border. Buses run from the Panamanian border bus terminal hourly until 5pm. From
David it’s easy to pick up local services, including the Tica Bus to Panama City.
The Zona Sur

Alternatively, buses pass through the bus station just before the migración on the
Interamericana into Bocas del Toro and Panama City.

fax the park’s Puerto Jiménez office (f 2735- Paso Canoas

5276), or, if you’re already in the country, visit
the Fundación de Parques Nacionales office in The only reason to come to PASO
San José (see p.500), who will fax or telephone CANOAS is to cross the border into
Corcovado on your behalf. Within the park, all Panama; you will not want to stay here
puestos have camping areas, drinking water, longer than you have to. As you arrive,
information, toilets and telephone or radio. either driving or on the Tracopa or inter-
Wherever you enter, jot down the details of national Tica Bus service, you’ll pass the
the marea (tide tables), which are posted in Costa Rican customs checkpoint, where
prominent positions. You’ll need to cross most
everybody gets a going-over. Foreigners
of the rivers at low tide; to do otherwise is
dangerous. Rangers can advise on conditions.
don’t attract much interest, however;
Plan to hike early – though not before dawn, customs officials are far more concerned
due to snakes – and shelter during the hottest with nabbing Ticos coming back over
part of the day. Rangers at each puesto always the border with unauthorized amounts
know how many people are on a given trail, of cheap consumer goods. The border
and how long those hikers are expected to be. is open 24 hours, but if you’re waiting
If you are late getting back, they’ll go looking overnight for an early bus, Cabinas
for you. It’s especially important to brush up on Romy, along the road past the station for
your Spanish before coming to Corcovado. You’ll
buses to Neily, is an acceptable place to
need to ask the rangers for a lot of informa-
tion, and few, if any, speak English. If you’re
bed down for the night with vibrantly
not fluent, bring a phrase book. If you hike with decorated clean little rooms (2). There is
a guide, all these details will be dealt with for a Banco Nacional on the Costa Rican side
you. All reputable tour operators use bilingual open between 8:30am and 4pm which
tour guides. has an ATM and currency exchange.

584
 Panama

Greece
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DAILY BUDGET Basic US$35/ POPULATION 3.24 million

fact file
rough costs

occasional treat US$50 AREA 75,990 sq km

DRINK Beer (355ml) US$1.50 LANGUAGE Spanish
FOOD ceviche de corvina US$2–3 CURRENCY US dollar (US$)
CAMPING/HOSTEL/BUDGET HOTEL CAPITAL Panama City (population:
US$5–7/US$8–12/US$22–30 814,000)
TRAVEL Panama City–Bocas del INTERNATIONAL PHONE CODE
Toro by bus (600km): 9hr, US$23 t507
TIME ZONE GMT –5

585
 Introduction
A narrow frontier that divides oceans and continents, Panama
has long been one of the world’s greatest crossroads – even
since before the construction of its famous canal. Though its
historical ties to the US have led to an exaggerated percep-
tion of the country as a de facto American colony, Spanish,
Panama

African, West Indian, Chinese, Indian, European, and some of

the least assimilated indigenous communities in the region
have all played a role in the creation of the most sophisticated,
open-minded and outward-looking society in Central America.
Introduction

The comparatively high level of economic development and

use of the US dollar also make it one of the more expensive
countries in the region, but the wildlife-viewing and adventure
travel options are excellent, and the still relatively undiscov-
ered nightlife of Panama City is a diamond in the rough. The
S-shaped isthmus remains a vital thoroughfare of international
commerce as well as a growing destination for international
tourism and investment.
Cosmopolitan and contradictory, Panama City stretches Darién, the wild,
Panama City is the most exciting capital rainforest-covered frontier between
city in Central America, its multiple Central and South America, while to the
personalities reflected in the frenzied north, along the Caribbean coastline,
energy of its international banking Kuna Yala is the autonomous homeland
centre, the laid-back street life of its of the Kuna, who live in beautiful isola-
old colonial quarter and the antiseptic tion on the coral atolls of the San Blas
order of the US-built Canal Zone. Archipelago. West of Panama City, the
Located in the centre of the country, Carretera Interamericana runs through
it is also a natural base from which to the Pacific coastal plain, Panama’s
explore many of Panama’s most popular agricultural heartland. This region lures
destinations, including its best-known travellers intrigued by the folkloric
attraction, the monumental Panama traditions and nature reserves of the
Canal. The colonial ruins and Carib- Azuero Peninsula and the protected
bean coastline of Colón province are cloudforests of the Chiriquí Highlands
also within reach of the capital. East of on the Costa Rican border. The mostly

When to visit
Panama is well within the tropics, with temperatures hovering at 25–32°C
throughout the year, and varying only with altitude (the Chiriquí Highlands generally
run 15–26°C). Visiting Panama during the dry season (mid-Dec to April; known
as verano, or summer) maximizes your chance of finding sunny days. However,
seasonal climatic variation is really only evident on the Pacific side of the country’s
mountainous spine. The average annual rainfall here is about 1500mm; on the
Caribbean, about 2500mm fall and are spread more evenly throughout the year.
From May to December, the storms of the Pacific’s winter (invierno) rainy season
are intense but rarely extended.
586
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Introduction Panama

587
 uninhabited Caribbean coast west of the canal to Panamanian control by December 31,
the Canal meets Costa Rica near the 1999.
remote archipelago of Bocas del Toro, 1983 Colonel Manuel Noriega becomes de facto
military ruler. He is initially supported by the US, but
a popular vacation destination thanks
also cultivates drug cartel connections.
to its largely unspoiled rainforests, 1988 US charges Noriega with rigging elections,
beaches, coral reefs, surfing hotspots drug smuggling and murder; Noriega declares
and easygoing vibe. state of emergency, dodging a coup and repressing
opposition.
Chronology 1989 Guillermo Endara wins the presidential
Panama

1501–02 Spanish explorers Rodrigo de Bastidas and election, but Noriega declares the results invalid
Christopher Columbus visit modern-day Panama. and seizes presidency. US troops invade Panama
1510 Conquistador Diego de Nicuesa establishes and oust Noriega, but also kill and leave homeless
Nombre de Dios, one of the earliest Spanish settle- thousands of civilians.
ments in the New World. 1992 US court finds Noriega guilty of drug charges,
Basics

1513 Vasco Núñez de Balboa crosses Panama, sentencing him to 40 years in prison.
becoming the first European to see the Pacific Ocean. 1999 Mireya Moscoso, the widow of former
1519 Panama City is founded on August 15 by president Arnulfo Arias, is elected as Panama’s
conquistador Pedro Arias de Ávila (known as first female president. US closes military bases
Pedrarias). and hands full control of the canal to Panama in
December.
1596–1739 Spanish colonies and ships, loaded with
2003 A country-wide strike over mismanagement
treasure from indigenous Central and South American
of the nation’s social security fund shuts down
empires, are attacked several times by British priva-
public services and turns violent.
teers. Henry Morgan sacks Panamá Viejo in 1671.
2004 Martin Torrijos, son of former dictator Omar
1746 Spain reroutes treasure fleet around Cape
Torrijos, is elected president.
Horn, but trade remains Panama’s dominant
2004 The canal, under Panamanian management,
economic activity.
earns record revenues of one billion US dollars.
1821 Panama declares independence from Spain,
2006 At least 125 people die after being poisoned
and joins the confederacy of Gran Colombia (Bolivia,
by cough medicine, imported from China, tainted
Peru, Ecuador, Venezuela, Colombia and Panama).
with an industrial solvent used in antifreeze.
1830 Panama becomes a province of Colombia
2006 Referendum on a US$5.2 billion plan
after the dissolution of Gran Colombia.
to expand the Panama Canal is passed by an
1851 US company begins building railroad across
overwhelming majority.
Panamanian isthmus; project is completed in 1855.
2006 Panama and the US sign a free-trade
1881 French architect Ferdinand de Lesseps begins
agreement.
excavations for Panama Canal, which turns out to
2007 Work begins on the Panama Canal expansion
be unmitigated disaster. Some 20,000 workers die
project.
before venture is abandoned in 1889.
2008 A US judge rules that Manuel Noriega,
1903 Backed by the US, Panama declares
released from prison in September, cannot be
independence from Colombia. French engineer
extradited to France until his appeals in the US are
Philippe Bunau-Varilla signs a treaty with the US,
exhausted.
essentially selling rights to the canal, and giving the
US control of the Canal Zone “in perpetuity”.
1914 Canal is completed. Over 75,000 people have
a hand in its construction.
1939 Panama ceases to be US protectorate, but
tensions continue to build between Panama and the
US territory of the Canal Zone.
Basics
1964 “Martyr’s Day” riots, precipitated by a student
protest, leave 27 Panamanians dead and over 500 ARRIVAL
injured in the Canal Zone.
1968 General Omar Torrijos Herrera, Chief of the
International flights arrive at
National Guard, overthrows president Arnulfo Arias Tocumen International Airport
and imposes a dictatorship. (PTY) in Panama City. Services arrive
1977 Torrijos signs new canal treaty with US daily from the US (most are routed
President Jimmy Carter, who agrees to transfer through Atlanta, Dallas/Fort Worth,
588
 Land and sea routes to Panama
Panama has two land routes to Costa Rica: the main border crossing along the
Carretera Interamericana at Paso Canoas (see p.584), and the less-frequented
border outpost at Guabito on the Caribbean coast (see box, p.665), which allows
for access to the Bocas archipelago.
We don’t currently recommend crossing by land from Colombia. While there are
no official sea crossings to this country, in Colón it is possible to book passage on
private yachts heading for Colombia, sometimes stopping in the San Blas region on
the way (see box, p.625).

Panama
Houston or Miami) and other Central Panama. Visitors from Ireland and the
and South American cities; KLM UK can also enter Panama without

Basics
and Iberia fly from Amsterdam and a tourist card; those from Australia,
Madrid, respectively. Flights from San Canada, New Zealand and the US must
José, in neighbouring Costa Rica, often pay for a US$5 tourist card upon arrival.
stop in David before continuing on to Significant price increases for the cards
Bocas del Toro or Panama City. were being discussed at time of writing,
It is possible to enter Panama by land so check w www.panaconsul.com
from Costa Rica and Colombia (see before you leave. Immigration generally
box above), though due to security stamps passports for ninety-day visits,
concerns we don’t recommend crossing but determining the length of a pass is
from Colombia. Though you can take entirely at the discretion of immigration
local transport and switch buses at the authorities; extending your stay can be
border, the slightly costlier fares on costly and time consuming.
international services run by Tica Bus
(w www.ticabus.com) and Panaline Getting around
(w www.panaline.cr.com) give you a Ease of travel within Panama varies
better shot at an efficient and hassle-free according to geography. Although the
passage. To avoid undue trouble, keep Canal corridor and the western Pacific
your documents, stamps, and tourist region are covered by a comprehensive
visas in order. In addition to official road network served by regular public
documents, travellers at the border transport, both eastern Panama and
crossing will often be asked to show an Bocas del Toro are linked to the rest of
onward or return ticket to provide proof the country by just a single road.
of eventual departure from Panama. If
travelling on a one-way ticket, migración By bus
is likely to require advance purchase of
Where there are roads, buses are the
bus fare back to San José.
cheapest and most popular way to
There are no regular boat services
travel. Panama City is the hub of the
between Panama and its neighbours,
network, with regular buses to Colón,
but a growing number of backpackers
Metetí in Darién, Almirante (for Bocas
are booking passage on private yachts
del Toro) and all the western cities and
from Colombia (see box, p.625).
towns. Buses vary in comfort and size,
from modern, air-conditioned Pullmans
visas to smaller “coaster” buses and old US
Travellers from Australia, Canada, school buses. Smaller towns and villages
Ireland, New Zealand, the UK and the in rural areas tend to be served by less
US can do not require visas to enter frequent minibuses, pick-up trucks
589
 addresses in PAnama
As in most of the rest of Central America, Panama’s towns are mainly laid out in
a grid pattern. Calles run north–south, and avenidas east–west. Both calles and
avenidas are generally numbered in order, calles north to south and avenidas
west to east. In larger cities, Panama City in particular, roads, especially major
throroughfares, usually have two or more names. Outside larger cities, exact street
numbers tend not to exist. Smaller towns often don’t even have street names, so
addresses are frequently given in terms of landmarks.
Panama

and flat-bed trucks known as chivas or the main rental companies are based
chivitas, converted to carry passengers, in Panama City airport, but some also
while Colón and David are also served have offices at the regional airports
by express buses, which are more expen- and in David. Driving in Panama is
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sive, more comfortable and faster. pretty straightforward, though even the
Most buses are individually owned, paved roads in the canal corridor and
and even when services are frequent, the west can be badly maintained. The
schedules are variable. Cities and main roads on the Azuero Peninsula
larger towns have bus terminals; other- are in good condition, however, as are
wise, buses leave from the main street the secondary roads to Cerro Punta,
or square. You can usually flag down Boquete, El Valle and Almirante. 4WD is
through-buses from the roadside, rarely necessary except during the rainy
though they may not stop if they are full season and in more remote rural areas,
or going a long way. In general, you can particularly Darién. Police checkpoints
just turn up shortly before departure and appear throughout the country, mainly
you should be able to get a seat, though on provincial borders, and normally you
the express buses to and from David are only required to slow down. If the
as well as international buses to Costa police ask you to stop, in most cases they
Rica are definitely worth booking in will just want to know your destination
advance. Fares, as elsewhere in Central and see your license.
America, are good value: the most you’ll Hitching is possible, but carries all the
have to pay is US$23 for the overnight, obvious risks. Private cars are unlikely
ten-hour ride from Panama City to to stop for you on main roads, though
Almirante. Long-distance fares are set in more remote areas, hitching is often
out in advance, with tickets bought in a the only motor transport available, and
terminal and a receipt printed – nearly there is little distinction between private
all such bus rides are very structured. vehicles and public transport – drivers
Colectivos are generally a bit looser will pick you up, but you should expect
about pricing and ticketing, but they are to pay the same kind of fares you would
less used here than in other countries in for the bus.
Central and South America. In larger cities, like Panama City and
David, taxis are plentiful and inexpen-
By car sive, with fares based on a zone system:
US$1.25 plus US$0.25 for each zone
At around US$40 a day or US$200 a week boundary crossed and US$0.25 for each
(more for 4WD), car rental is reason- additional passenger. Most intra-city
ably priced but not cheap. However, rides will cost less than US$2 and none
having your own transport is a good should cost more than US$3. There are
way of seeing the country, especially the many unlicensed cab drivers patrolling
Canal corridor, areas close to Panama the streets who are willing to negotiate
City and the Azuero Peninsula. All of on prices, but who may engage in
590
unscrupulous practices. Even licensed from the Carretera Interamericana and
cab drivers won’t hesitate to exploit an other major routes), and towns usually
obviously unsavvy, lost or needy tourist. have a shop offering parts and simple
Specifically, be wary of price gouging on repairs. The stretch from the continental
the Panama City Causeway. divide to Chiriquí Grande on the road
from David to Almirante, in partic-
By boat ular, is a cyclist’s dream – some 40km
downhill on a well-surfaced, less-driven
Scheduled ferries run from Panama main road through rainforest-covered

Panama
City to Isla Taboga as well as between mountains. Other good roads for
Bocas del Toro and Almirante and cycling include all those on the Azuero
Changuinola. Motorized water-taxis and Peninsula and the roads to Cerro Punta
dugout canoes are an important means and El Valle off the Interamericana.
of transport in Bocas del Toro, Darién

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and Kuna Yala, though the only sched- By rail
uled small boat services are the water-
taxis in Darién (between Puerto Quimba The transisthmian railway (W www
and La Palma). Otherwise, you’ll have to .panarail.com; US$22, children US$11),
either wait for somebody going your way, which runs alongside the canal between
or hire a boat. The latter can be expensive, Panama City and Colón, offers an excel-
but becomes increasingly economical lent way of seeing the canal and the
the more people there are to share the surrounding rainforest.
boat. Hiring a dugout canoe also opens
up possibilities for wilderness adventure Accommodation
– up jungle rivers to isolated villages or
Most areas of Panama offer a wide choice
out to uninhabited islands.
of places to stay. In general, the cheapest
hotel rooms, normally doubles with
By air private baths and air-conditioning, may
Cities and larger towns are served by cost US$20–25 (4 ) a night, although
regular flights through Aeroperlas hostels – most common in well-travelled
(T 315 7500, W www.aeroperlas.com), spots like Bocas Town, Boquete, David,
the principal domestic carrier, which Isla Taboga and Panama City – will
also has regular flights to parts of Darién often put you up for under US$12 (3 ).
and Kuna Yala, and Air Panama (T 315 In Panama City, where many hotels
0439, W www.flyairpanama.com), which target business travellers, prices tend
also flies to parts of Darién as well as the to be slightly higher, while at the very
Las Perlas islands. With the exception of low end of the market some hotels cater
these more isolated areas, though, most largely to Panamanian couples – with
destinations are so close to Panama City hourly rates. Outside of Panama City
that it’s scarcely worth flying, especially and Bocas del Toro, you don’t usually
because flight prices are on the rise need to book in advance, except at
(return flights between Panama City weekends and during public holidays,
and Bocas cost around US$180 during fiestas and Carnaval. During these times
high season at the time of writing). prices can double in certain hotels. The
ten percent tourist tax charged on hotel
By bike accommodation is usually included in
the quoted price and has been factored
Cycling is a popular way to get around into our accommodation price codes.
in western Panama, where roads are See p.35 for an explanation of the price
generally paved and traffic scarce (away codes used in this book.
591
 There are no official campsites in lobster and prawns; there is an excel-
Panama, but it is possible to camp in lent fresh fish market on the outskirts
remote rural areas and national parks if of Panama City. Fresh tropical fruit is
you ask permission. This said, other than also abundant, but rarely on the menu
on uninhabited islands in Kuna Yala or at restaurants – you’re better off buying
deep in the wilderness, camping is never it in local markets. Popular snacks
really necessary – even in the smallest include carimañolas or enyucados (fried
villages there’s almost always somewhere balls of manioc dough filled with meat),
you can bed down for the night. If you empanadas, tamales and patacones
Panama

do camp, either a mosquito net or (fried, mashed and refried plantains).

mosquito coils (known as mechitas) are The diverse cultural influences that
essential in some places. Almost all the have passed through Panama have left
national parks have ANAM (see p.596) their marks on its cuisine, especially in
Panama City, where there are scores of
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refuges where you can spend the night

for US$5–10, though this fee is not Greek, Italian, Chinese, Lebanese and
always charged. They are usually pretty American restaurants. Almost every
basic, with bunk beds, cooking facilities town has at least one Chinese restaurant,
and running water. often the best option for vegetarians.
Perhaps the strongest outside influ-
Food and drink ence on Panamanian food, though, is
the distinctive Caribbean culture of the
Street vendors are less common in
West Indian populations of Panama City,
Panama than elsewhere in Central
Colón province and Bocas del Toro. This
America. The cheapest places to eat are
usually involves seafood and rice cooked
the ubiquitous canteen-like self-service
in lime juice and coconut milk.
restaurants (sometimes called sodas or
cafeterias), which serve a limited, but
filling, range of Panamanian meals for
Drink
a few dollars; these usually open for Coffee is excellent where grown locally
lunch and stay open late. Larger towns (in the Chiriquí Highlands) and gener-
usually have some more upmarket ally good throughout Panama, made
restaurants with waiter service, where a espresso-style and served black or with
main dish may cost US$5–10, as well as milk as café americano. The drinking
US-style fast-food places. There is often water of Panama City is so good that
a five percent tax to pay on meals. Large it is known as the “Champagne of the
supermarkets in the major cities offer Chagres”. Iced water, served free in
a good range of cold and hot snacks to restaurants, along with tap water in all
either eat in or take out. towns and cities except Bocas del Toro
Known as comida típica, traditional and remote areas, is perfectly safe.
Panamanian cooking is similar to what Chichas, delicious blends of ice, water
you find elsewhere in Central America. and tropical-fruit juices, are served
Rice and beans or lentils served with in restaurants and by street vendors
a little chicken, meat or fish form everywhere (except in Kuna Yala, where
the mainstay, and yuca (cassava) and chicha is a ceremonial drink made from
plantains are often served as sides. The fermented sugar-cane juice flavoured
national dish is sancocho, a chicken with coffee or cacao). Batidos, delicious
soup with yuca, plantains and other root when prepared with fresh fruit, are
vegetables flavoured with coriander. thick milkshakes. Also popular are
Seafood is plentiful, excellent and pipas, sweet water from green coconuts
generally cheap, particularly corvina served either ice cold or freshly hacked
(sea bass), pargo rojo (red snapper), from the palm tree. Said to cleanse the
592
system, these can also have diuretic
properties when consumed in large Panamanian
quantities. expressions
Beer is extremely popular in Panama.
Spanish
Locally brewed brands include Panama, Chuleta used when someone is
Atlas, Soberana and Balboa; imported very surprised, in order not to say
beers such as Budweiser, Heineken and “chucha”
Guinness are available in Panama City. En serio? “For real?”, “No way!”,
For a quicker buzz, many Panamanians “Seriously?”

Panama
turn to locally produced rum – Seco Esa vaina “that thing”
Herrerano (known as seco), Carta Vieja Un pelao a young boy (from pelado)
Priti “pretty”
and Abuelo are the most common brands
– though imported whiskies and other West Indian from the
spirits are widely available. You can get Caribbean

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Buay “boy”
wine, mainly from Chile and California,
Wha’happ’nin’ buay “How are you
in most towns, with the best selections doing?”
found in the large supermarkets.

culture and respect is typically accorded, though

etiquette intimate advances are often very direct.
Overall, the Caribbean and indigenous
Panama, like much of the rest of Latin
areas of Panama hold more relaxed and
America, is socially conservative,
less macho attitudes, though revealing
with a vast majority of the population
clothing is not tolerated (except on the
reported as Roman Catholic. Thanks
beach) in Bocas del Toro, where even
to the country’s rather international
men are required, by law, to wear shirts
history more religions are present
in public. Attitudes toward homosexu-
than in other parts of the region, but
ality are, by and large, intolerant.
the combination of a largely Catholic
Tipping is only expected in more
cultural identity, economic stratifi-
expensive places, where a tip is sometimes
cation and other ingrained colonial
included on the final bill, or where service
legacies has produced a country and
has been particularly good.
people that appreciate rules and accept
established social castes. This is not to
sports and outdoor
say, however, that Panamanian society
is stagnant. The history of the US activities
presence, widespread access to global With every important match being
media and entertainment and relatively televised and broadcast on radio, both
diverse demographics as well as recent European and Latin American football
economic expansion have all contrib- leagues have a broad fan base and
uted to making Panama a country are closely followed in Panama, but
familiar with change. baseball (beisbol) is Panama’s official
A macho attitude is nonetheless national sport. The baseball season in
prevalent throughout Panama. Objecti- Panama is short, starting up in January
fication of the female body is common, and continuing through the northern
though generally not blatant outside hemisphere’s winter months (Panama’s
of Panama City. For women travel- dry season). There are ten teams in the
ling in Panama, unsolicited attention national league, each representing one
in the form of whistles and cat-calls is of Panama’s provinces, and home teams
almost inevitable, though usually easily are sacred to their impassioned fans,
ignored. In personalized settings, more making the experience of attending
593
 a game lively and culturally rich. The where huge amounts of machinery and
baseball stadium in Panama City, entire villages submerged by the rising
Estadio Rod Carew, is named after Major waters of Lago Gatún make for an
League Baseball Hall-of-Fame player unusual underwater attraction. Bocas
and Panamanian native Rod Carew. also can have excellent surf, though it is
It’s a large, modern complex that holds seasonal and less consistent than on the
26,000 and is nestled in the hillside of Pacific coast. Ancon Expeditions (see
Cerro Patacon between Avenida de la p.606) is a good place to start for infor-
Paz and Autopista Panama–Colón, just mation on arranging trips, and websites
Panama

north of the city. You can get tickets to like w www.wannasurf.com will give a
a game for less than US$5, and, other listing of the best breaks.
than during the play-offs, the stadium
is never full. Boxing is also popular in Communications
Panama, with Panamanian Roberto
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Duran arguably one of the best compet- Other than in remote areas, Panama’s
itors the sport has ever seen. communications network is good.
There is a wealth of outdoor activi- Letters posted with the Correo Nacional
ties available to you in Panama. (COTEL) cost US$0.35 to both the US
Hiking, rafting, surfing and diving are and Europe, and should reach their
probably the most common and easily destination within a week or two. Even
accessible. Boquete, in the Chiriquí though most small towns have a post
Highlands, provides an ideal departure office (correo), it’s best to post mail
point for hikes up the Volcán Barú (see in Panama City. Most offices have an
p.658), Panama’s highest point, as well Entrega General (Poste Restante or
as for rafting trips down the formi- General Delivery) where you can receive
dable Río Chiriquí and Río Chiriquí mail; in Panama City your correspondent
Viejo (see p.661). Bocas del Toro is a must specify the post office zone: the
world-renowned dive site (see p.662) most central is Zone 5, on Av Central/
with trips ranging from all-day snorkel Via España. Post office opening hours
tours to underwater exploration of are generally Monday to Friday from
shipwrecks and spectacular reef walls. 8am to 5pm, Saturday 8am to noon.
Even experienced divers should make Panama’s privatized telephone
an effort to dive in the Panama Canal, company is owned by Cable & Wireless.

PANAMA ON THE NET

W www.ancon.org National Conservation Association website. Panama’s most
influential environmental group has general information (in Spanish) on national
parks, ecology, voluntary work and endangered species, as well as scientific
papers.
W www.focuspublicationsint.com/New_Site/index.html Website of El Visitante/
The Visitor, a dual-language, bi-monthly publication.
W www.thepanamareport.com A comprehensive site providing information for
tourists and those interested in living or working in Panama.
W www.thepanamanews.com Panama’s frequently updated online newspaper is a
good place to keep up with the latest events.
W www.pancanal.com The official site of the Panama Canal Authority, offering
plenty of information and news, a history of the canal and photographs, as well as
live webcams at two locks.
W www.visitpanama.com Panamanian Tourist Institute site, with information on
attractions and links to hotels, airlines, tour agencies and other related sites.
594
Local calls are cheap, and there’s a wide to Colombia have been kidnapped or
network of payphones that take phone- killed – or have simply disappeared. It
cards sold in shops and street stalls in is possible to visit some areas of Darién
denominations of $3, $5, $10 and $20. in relative safety, including parts of
Local numbers should have seven digits, the national park, but we recommend
local mobile numbers eight digits. You that you only travel here as part of an
can make international collect calls organized tour group specializing in
from these payphones via the inter- the region or after having taken expert
national operator (T 106), and both advice – see p.631 for more information

Panama
AT&T (T 109) and MCI (T 108) can about the region. Note, too, that many of
place collect or credit-card calls to the the boats that ply the coast are involved
US. Panama’s country code is T 507. in smuggling.
Mobile phone coverage is growing, but If you become the victim of a crime,
report it immediately to the local police

Basics
is still best in cities and larger towns. It
shouldn’t be a problem to buy a local station, particularly if you will later be
SIM card in Panama City and replace the making an insurance claim. If treated
card in your own phone with it. Mobile respectfully, Panamanian police are
phone codes begin with a “6” or a “5”. generally honest and helpful, though it is
You should be able to find an internet not uncommon for travellers to be asked
café almost anywhere you go; rates are to present identification when walking
normally US$1 per hour, but can go up in the city at night. In Panama City the
to US$2 per hour in more remote towns. tourist police (policia de turismo) are
Note that the “@” symbol is achieved by better prepared to deal with foreign
simultaneously depressing the Alt, 6 and travellers and more likely to speak English
4 keys or the Alt and Q keys depending – they wear white armbands and are often
on the keyboard. Many internet cafés mounted on bicycles or mopeds.
also provide international phone calls for Although by law you are required to
about US$1.50 for the first minute and carry your passport at all times, you will
US$0.25 per minute thereafter. Wireless rarely be asked to present it except when
internet, or wi-fi, is becoming more in transit; in fact, when walking around
common, especially in Panama City. the towns and cities it may be better to
carry a copy of your passport (including
crime and safety the entry stamp) – indeed, this is what
the tourist police recommend. When
Panama has something of an unjust
caught without identification, a “fine”
reputation as a dangerous place to
may be levied on the spot, usually about
travel. Although violent crime does
US$20, or you could be taken to the
occasionally occur, Panama is far safer
immigration office, migración, and held
than most other countries in Central
until your identity is verified.
America. Nonetheless, you should take
special care in Colón, as well as in the
MEDICAL CARE AND
El Chorillo and Santa Ana districts of
Panama City. Late at night or when EMERGENCIES
carrying luggage, take a taxi. Outside Medical care in Panama is best sought in
these two cities, the only other area the two largest cities: Panama City and
where there is any particular danger is David. Panama City has a handful of
near the Colombian border in Darién top-notch hospitals with many US and
and Kuna Yala. This frontier has long European trained doctors and English
been frequented by guerrillas, bandits speaking staff; see p.611 for listings.
and cocaine traffickers, and several As most doctors and hospitals expect
travellers attempting to cross overland payment up front, frequently in cash,
595
 to change so long as they are issued
Emergency numbers by major companies (Amex, Visa and
Ambulance t 225 1436 or 228 2187 MasterCard) and are in US dollars. The
or 269 9778 three major banks in Panama – Banco
Cruz Roja T 228 2187 Nacional, Banistmo and Banco General
Fire T 103 – will all change these, as will some of
Police T 104 the international banks in Panama City.
Seguro Social T229 1133
Most banks are open from 8am to 3pm
Tourist Police T 270 2467
Monday to Friday, and from 9am to
Panama

noon on Saturday; almost all branches

check the travel coverage clauses in have ATMs, as do many large supermar-
your health insurance plan or purchase kets. Major credit cards are accepted in
supplementary traveller’s insurance most hotels and restaurants in Panama
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before you leave home. The best plans City and the larger provincial towns,
cover doctor’s visits, and emergency though hardly anywhere in Bocas del
evacuation from remote areas or to your Toro. Visa is the most widely accepted,
home country, if necessary, for more followed by MasterCard.
serious medical issues.
Pharmacies (farmacias) are numerous; Information AND MAPS
Farmacias Arrocha is the largest national Good, impartial information about
chain, and its stores stay open until Panama is hard to come by once
11pm. Pharmacies in Supermercado Rey you’re in the country. The best internal
grocery stores are open 24 hours. Hospi- source of information is the Panama-
tals and occasionally health clinics have nian Tourist Institute, IPAT (W www
pharmacies onsite, and many types of .visitpanama.com), which has its main
medicines are available over the counter, office in Panama City (see p.605) and
without a prescription. many provincial branches. You can get
some useful information at the Panama
money and banks City office – advice, free maps, leaflets –
Panama adopted US dollars (referred but unless you go there with some fairly
to interchangeably as dólares or balboas) specific questions you may end up with
as its currency in 1904, and has not little more than glossy brochures. The
printed any paper currency since. The provincial offices vary, but even in the
country does, however, mint its own most rudimentary you should be able
coinage: 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 centavo to find someone who speaks English.
pieces, which are used alongside US The Visitor/El Visitante, a free, twice-
coins. Both US$100 and US$50 bills are monthly tourist promotion magazine
often difficult to spend, so try to have in English and Spanish, is available at
US$20 as the largest bills you carry. It IPAT offices, hotels and restaurants
is difficult to change foreign currency throughout Panama, and lists attrac-
in Panama – change any cash into US tions and upcoming events. Several tour
dollars as soon as you can. In Panama operators based in Panama City (see
City there are Banco Nacional branches p.606) can give you advice on the rest of
at the airport and on Via España in the the country, though they will naturally
El Cangrejo district, or you could try do so in the hope of selling you a tour.
Panacambios, a casa de cambio also on Panama’s national parks and other
Via España. Foreign banks will gener- protected areas are administered by the
ally change their own currencies. National Environment Agency, ANAM
Traveller’s cheques are the safest (W www.anam.gob.pa). The main office
way to carry your money and are easy in Panama City (see p.606) is, in theory,
596
keen to promote ecotourism, though
they offer almost no information. The Public holidays
ANAM regional offices are generally Jan 1 New Year’s Day
more helpful (though still unaccus- Jan 9 Martyrs’ Day (in remembrance
tomed to the idea of travellers visiting of those killed by US troops in the
the parks independently), and are an 1964 riots)
essential stop before visiting areas where Feb/March (date varies) Carnival
March/April (date varies) Good
permission is needed or if you want to
Friday
spend the night in a refuge. May 1 Labour Day

Panama
The best map of Panama (1:480,000; Aug 15 Foundation of Panama City
available online at W www.itmb.com and (Panama City only)
W www.amazon.com) is produced by Nov 2 All Souls’ Day
International Travel Maps. In country, Nov 3 Independence Day (from
large-scale maps are available at the

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Colombia, 1903)
Instituto Geográfico Nacional Tommy Nov 4 Flag Day (government holiday
Guardia (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm) on Via only)
Nov 5 National Day (Colón only)
Simon Bolívar, opposite the entrance to
Nov 10 First Cry of Independence
the university in Panama City. Good- Nov 28 Emancipation Day
quality maps of Panama City are available (independence from Spain)
at petrol stations, tour agencies and shops Dec 8 Mother’s Day
throughout the city for US$5–10. Dec 25 Christmas Day

Opening hours and

public holidays Festivals
January Feria de las Flores y del Café in Boquete
Opening hours vary from establish-
(date varies).
ment to establishment, but generally February Comarca de Kuna Yala (Feb 25)
businesses and government offices are celebrates the Kuna Revolution of 1925, their
open Monday to Saturday from 8 or independence day; Carnaval (date varies
9am to 4 or 5pm. Museums generally Feb–March) celebrated all over the country, but
open the same hours from Tuesday to especially in Las Tablas and Panama City.
Saturday, with some also opening on March Semana Santa (date varies March–April)
Sunday morning and some closing for celebrated everywhere, but most colourfully in
the lunch hour at around 12.30 or 1pm. La Villa de Los Santos, Pesé and Guararé, on the
Shops are usually open from Monday to Azuero Peninsula.
April Feria de las Orquideas in Boquete (date
Saturday from 9am to 6pm.
varies); Feria International del Azuero in La Villa de
Panama has several national public Los Santos (date varies).
holidays (see box), during which most June Corpus Christi (date varies) in La Villa de Los
government offices, businesses and Santos.
shops close. Panama City and Colón also July Nuestra Señora del Carmen (July 16) on Isla
each have their own public holiday, and Taboga; Patronales de La Santa Librada and Festival
there is one public holiday for govern- de la Pollera in Las Tablas (July 20–22).
ment employees only. When the public August Festival del Manito Ocueno (date varies)
holidays fall near a weekend many in Ocu.
October Festival of Nogagope (Oct 10–12) on
Panamanians take a long weekend
Isla Tigre, Comarca de Kuna Yala; Feria Kuna (Oct
(known as a puente) and head to the
13–16) on Isla Tigre; Festival de la Mejorana (Oct
beach or the countryside, so it can be 21) in Guararé; Fiesta de Cristo Negro (Oct 21) in
difficult to find hotel rooms during these Portobelo.
times. Several of these public holidays November The “First Cry of Independence” (Nov
also coincide with national fiestas that 10), Independence Day, celebrated as part of “El
continue for several days. Mes de la Patria”.
597
 Panama City
American character, while eastward
from El Cangrejo, amid sprawling
suburban slums, stand the ruins of
Few cities in Latin America can match Panamá Viejo, the first European city
the diversity and cosmopolitanism on the Pacific coast of the Americas.
of PANAMA CITY: polyglot and Isles of tranquillity far from the
postmodern before its time, its atmos- frenetic squalor of the city include
phere is surprisingly more similar to Isla Taboga, the “Island of Flowers”
the mighty trading cities of Asia than some 20km off the coast; the islets of
Panama

to anywhere else in the region. The city the Amador Causeway alongside the
has always thrived on commerce; its Pacific entrance to the canal; and the
unique position on the world’s trade Parque Nacional Metropolitano, an
routes and the economic opportunity island of tropical rainforest within the
Panama City

this presents has attracted immigrants capital. Panama City is also a good
and businesses from all over the globe. base for day-trips to the canal and the
With nearly a third of the country’s Caribbean coast as far as Portobelo.
population living in the urbanized
corridor between Panama City and What to see and do
Colón, the capital’s metropolitan
melting pot is a study in contrasts. East The old city centre of San Felipe
and West, ancient and modern, wealth (also known as Casco Viejo or Casco
and poverty: they all have a place in Antiguo) is the most picturesque
Panama City. and historically interesting part of
Panama City’s layout, too, encom- Panama City and houses many of its
passes some startling incongruities. most important buildings and several
On a small peninsula at the southwest museums. Declared a UNESCO World
end of the Bay of Panama stands the Heritage site in 1997, it is gradually
old city centre of San Felipe, a breezy being restored to its former glory after
jumble of ruins and restored colonial decades of neglect, though it can still be
buildings; 4km or so to the northeast a dangerous neighbourhood at night, as
rise the shimmering skyscrapers of it is surrounded by slums. The bougain-
El Cangrejo, the modern banking villea-shaded Paseo Las Bóvedas,
and commercial district. West of San running some 400m along the top of
Felipe, the former US Canal Zone town the old city’s defensive wall between the
of Balboa retains a distinctly North Plaza de Francia and the corner of Calle
1 and Avenida A, affords views of the
Orientation in panama modern city and ships waiting to transit
city the canal.
To the west, the Amador Causeway
Getting around Panama City can be
marks the entrance to the canal and the
disconcerting, so it’s often best to
take a taxi to your accommodation.
Canal Zone, comprised of the Causeway,
Confusingly, many streets in Panama Fort Amador and the town of Balboa.
City have at least two names: East along the bay from San Felipe, the
Avenida Cuba, for instance, is pulsing and chaotic commercial heart
also Avenida 2 Sur, and the road of the capital lies in the neighbouring
commonly known as Calle 50 is also districts of Bella Vista, El Cangrejo
Avenida 4 Sur or Avenida Nicanor and Punta Paitilla, where the majority
de Obarrio. We have used the most
of banks, hotels, restaurants, shops and
common names throughout this
account. luxurious private residences can be
found.
598
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Panama City Panama

599
 San Felipe and El Cangrejo are Plaza Catedral
joined by Avenida Central, the city’s Elderly men dressed sharply in pressed
main thoroughfare. Running north linen suits chat amiably among the shaded
from San Felipe, its name changes to benches and gazebos of cobblestoned
Via España as it continues through Plaza Catedral, which sits at the heart of
the downtown districts of Calidonia San Felipe and the old city. Also known
and La Exposición and the residential as Plaza de la Independencia, in honour
neighbourhood of Bella Vista. Several of the proclamations of independence
other main avenues run parallel from both Spain and Colombia that
Panama

to Avenida Central: Avenida Perú, were issued here, the western side of
Avenida Cuba, Avenida Justo Arose- the plaza is dominated by the classical
mena and, along the seafront, Avenida facade of the cathedral, flanked by white
Balboa. towers. Built between 1688 and 1796, it
Panama City

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