LonelyPlanetArgentina Resumo

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Buenos Aires
% 011 / POP 3 MILLION / AREA 203 SQ KM
Includes  Why Go?

Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Whip together a beautiful metropolis with gourmet cuisine,
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 awesome shopping and frenzied nightlife – and you get
Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Buenos Aires. It’s a rough-hewn mix of Paris’ architecture,
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Rome’s traffic and Madrid’s late-night hours, all spiked
with Latin American flavor. BA is cosmopolitan, seductive,
Festivals & Events . . . . 75 emotional, frustrating and chock-full of attitude, and there’s
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 no other place like it in the world. Seek out classic BA: the
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 old-world cafes, colonial architecture, curious markets and
Drinking & Nightlife. . . 93 diverse communities. Visit with Evita at Recoleta’s famous
cemetery, fill your belly with luscious steaks, dance the sul-
Entertainment. . . . . . . .99
try tango and take in a crazy fútbol (soccer) match. Unfor-
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . 106 gettable adventures? You’d better believe it.
Getting There & Everyone knows someone who has been here and raved
Away. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 about it. You’ve put it off long enough. Come to BA and you’ll
Getting There & understand why so many people have fallen in love with this
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 amazing city. There’s a good chance you’ll be one of them.
Tigre & the Delta . . . . . 113
Best Places to Eat When to Go

¨ï Latina (p92) Buenos Aires
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Casa Saltshaker (p91)
40/104 10/250
¨¨Chan Chan (p88)
30/86 8/200
¨¨Sarkis (p91)
20/68 6/150
¨¨Don Julio (p92)
10/50 4/100
0/32 2/50
Best Places -10/14 0
to Stay J F M A M J J A S O N D
¨¨Poetry Building (p82) Oct–Dec Spring Aug Winter’s peak Mar–May Explore
¨¨Miravida Soho (p83) and early summer brings BA’s tango BA during fall’s
mean warm days festival; or visit pleasant days, and
¨¨The 5th Floor (p83) to enjoy outdoor museums, art gal- catch the city’s
¨¨Casa Calma (p79) restaurant patios leries and cultural Independent Film
and bars. centers. Festival in April.
¨¨Cabrera Garden (p83)
53
History
TOP FIVE SPLURGES
Buenos Aires was first settled in 1536 by
Spaniard Pedro de Mendoza, but food ¨¨Book a room at the classic,
shortages and attacks by indigenous groups sumptuous Alvear Palace Hotel (p82)
prompted his hasty departure in 1537. ¨¨Reserve a table at the closed-door
Meanwhile, other expedition members left restaurant i Latina (p92)
the settlement, sailed 1600km upriver and
B u e n os Ai re s S ig h ts
¨¨Drink, eat and learn about Argentine
founded Asunción (now capital of Para-
customs at the Argentine Experience
guay). Then in 1580 a new group of settlers
(p91)
moved back south and repopulated Men
doza’s abandoned outpost. ¨¨Head to the countryside and go horse
For the next 196 years BA was a backwa- back riding with Caballos a la Par (p74)
ter and smuggler’s paradise due to trade re- ¨¨Snag two tickets to the Faena Hotel’s
strictions imposed by mother Spain. All the sexy Rojo Tango (p99) show
same, its population had grown to around
20,000 by 1776, the year Spain decreed the
city as capital of the new viceroyalty of Río
jammed during the day with businesspeople,
de la Plata.
shoppers and tourists seeking vehicle- free
BA’s cabildo (town council) cut ties with
access from north to south. Buskers, beggars
its mother country on May 1810, but decades
and street vendors thrive here as well, add-
of power struggles between BA and the oth-
ing color and noise. Renovated old build-
er former viceregal provinces ensued, esca-
ings, such as beautiful Galerías Pacífico, add
lating into civil war. Finally, in 1880 the city
elegance to the area.
was declared the federal territory of Buenos
Further south is BA’s busy financial dis-
Aires and the nation’s capital forevermore.
trict, where there are several museums to
Agricultural exports soared for the
investigate. After that comes Plaza de Mayo,
next few decades, which resulted in great
often filled with people resting on benches
wealth accumulating in the city. Well-heeled
or taking photos of the surrounding historic
porteños (BA citizens) built opulent French-
sites.
style mansions and the government spent
lavishly on public works. But the boom times oPlaza de Mayo PLAZA
didn’t last forever. The 1929 Wall Street crash (Map p58; cnr Av de Mayo & San Martín) Plant-
dealt a big blow to the country’s markets, ed between the Casa Rosada, the Cabildo
and soon the first of many military coups and the city’s main cathedral, grassy Plaza
took over. It was the end of Argentina’s Gold- de Mayo is BA’s ground zero for the city’s
en Age. most vehement protests. In the plaza’s
Poverty, unemployment and decaying center is the Pirámide de Mayo, a white
infrastructure became constant problems obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of
in the following decades. Extreme govern- BA’s independence from Spain. If you hap-
ments and a roller-coaster economy have pen to be here on Thursday at 3:30pm, you’ll
also been recurring plagues, but despite this see the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo gather;
Argentina continues to bounce back every these ‘mothers of the disappeared’ continue
few years. Today BA remains a vibrant city to march for social justice causes.
with resilient and adaptable citizens – just
like their ancestral settlers. Casa Rosada BUILDING
(Pink House; Map p58; % 011-4344-3600;
1 Sights h Free half-hour tours 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) On
the eastern side of Plaza de Mayo stands the
stately Casa Rosada. It’s from the balconies
1 Microcentro here that Eva Perón famously preached to
BA’s Microcentro is where the big city throngs of impassioned Argentines.
hustles: here you’ll see endless crowds of The building’s color could have come
business suits and power skirts hastening from President Sarmiento’s attempt at mak-
about the narrow streets in the shadows of ing peace during his 1868–74 term (by blend-
skyscrapers and old European buildings. ing the red of the Federalists with the white
Florida, a long pedestrian street, is the of the Unitarists). Another theory, however,
main artery of this neighborhood. It’s always is that the color comes from painting the
54
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56
palace with bovine blood, a common prac- Cabildo MUSEUM
tice in the late 19th century. (Map p58 % 011-4342-6729; www.cabildonacional.
The Casa Rosada now occupies a site com.ar; Bolívar 65; admission AR$15; h 10:30am-
where colonial riverbank fortifications once 5pm Tue-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
stood; today, however, after repeated land- This mid-18th-century town hall building
fills, the palace stands more than 1km in- is now a museum. It used to have colon-
land. The side of the palace that faces Plaza nades that spanned Plaza de Mayo, but the
de Mayo is actually the back of the building. building of surrounding avenues unfortu-
The offices of the current Argentine presi- nately destroyed them. Inside you’ll find
dent are here, but the presidential residence a few mementos of the early 19th-century
is in the calm suburbs of Olivos, north of the British invasions, some paintings in colo-
center. nial and early independence style, and the
Underneath the Casa Rosada, excavations occasional temporary exhibit. There are
have unearthed remains of the Fuerte Viejo, good views of Plaza de Mayo from the 2nd-
a ruin dating from the 18th century. These floor balcony.
are accessible via entry to the Museo del
Galerías Pacífico LANDMARK
Bicentenario.
(Map p58; % 011-5555-5110; cnr Florida & Av
Off-limits during the military dictatorship
Córdoba; h 10am-9pm, food court to 10pm, tours
of 1976–83, the Casa Rosada is now reason-
11:30am Mon-Fri) Covering an entire city
ably accessible to the public. Free half-hour
tours are offered. block, this beautiful French-style building
has fulfilled the commercial purpose that
Museo del Bicentenario MUSEUM its designers envisioned when they con-
(Map p58; % 011-4344-3802; www.museobicen structed it in 1889. Galerías Pacífico is now
tenario.gob.ar; cnr Av Paseo Colón & Hipólito Yrigo a shopping center – dotted with lovely fairy
yen; h 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) F Behind the lights at night – and boasts upscale stores
Casa Rosada you’ll notice a glassy wedge along with a large food court. The excellent
marking this airy and sparkling under- Centro Cultural Borges takes up the top
ground museum, housed within the brick floor. Tours are held in English and Span-
vaults of the old aduana (customs house). ish; go to the information kiosk near the
Head down into the open space, which has food court.
over a dozen side rooms – each dedicated
Centro Cultural Borges CULTURAL CENTER
to a different era of Argentina’s tumultu-
(Map p58; % 011-5555-5359; www.ccborges.org.
ous political history. There are mostly vid-
ar; cnr Viamonte & San Martín; h exhibitions 10am-
eos (in Spanish) and a few artifacts to see,
9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) One of the best
along with temporary art exhibitions and
an impressive restored mural by Mexican cultural centers in BA, with inexpensive but
artist David Alfaro Siqueiros. Also check out high-quality art exhibitions and galleries,
Evita’s gown. cinema, music, lectures, classes and work-
shops. Reasonably priced tango shows are
Catedral Metropolitana CATHEDRAL also available.
(Map p58; museum admission AR$40; h 7:30am-
Manzana de las Luces BUILDING
6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, museum
(Block of Enlightenment; Map p58; % 0 1 1- 4342-
10am-12:30pm Mon-Fri) This solemn cathe-
6973; www.manazadelasluces.org; Perú 272; tours
dral was built on the site of the original
AR$35; h tours 3pm Mon-Fri, 3pm, 4:30pm &
colonial church and not finished until
6pm Sat & Sun) In colonial times, the Man-
1827. It’s a significant religious and archi
tectural landmark, and carved above its zana de las Luces was Buenos Aires’ most
triangular facade and neoclassical col- important center of culture and learning.
umns are bas-reliefs of Jacob and Joseph. Even today, this collection of buildings still
The spacious interior is equally impressive, symbolizes high culture in the capital. On
with baroque details and an elegant rococo the northern side of the block are two of
altar. There’s a small museum dedicated the five original buildings; Jesuit defen-
to the cathedral’s history inside. For Pope sive tunnels were discovered in 1912. Tours
Francis souvenirs, visit the small gift shop (in Spanish) are available, and a cultural
near the entrance. center on the premises offers classes, work-
shops and theater.
57
BUENOS AIRES IN…
Two Days
Start with a stroll in San Telmo and duck into some antiques stores. Walk north to
Plaza de Mayo (p53) for a historical perspective, then wander the Microcentro,
perhaps veering east to Puerto Madero – a great spot for a break.
Keep heading northward into Retiro and Recoleta, stopping off at the Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes (p71) to admire some impressionism. Be sure to visit the
Cementerio de la Recoleta (p69) to commune with BA’s bygone elite. For dinner
and nightlife, Palermo Viejo is hard to beat.
On day two take in the Congreso neighborhood or head to La Boca. Shop in
Palermo Viejo and at night catch a tango show or a performance at the Teatro
Colón (p105).
Four Days
On your third day consider taking a day trip to Tigre, or Colonia in Uruguay. On the
fourth day you can go on a unique tour, take a tango lesson, check out Palermo’s
parks or head to the Feria de Mataderos (p108), if it’s a weekend. Be sure to find
yourself a good steak restaurant for your last meal.
oCentro Cultural only as an institute for research and uni-

Kirchner CULTURAL CENTER versity training but also as an educational
(Map p58; % 0800-333-9300; www.cultural center for the public. On display are archae
kirchner.gob.ar; Sarmiento 151; h 5-9pm Thu & Fri, ological and anthropological collections
2-9pm Sat & Sun, limited hrs outside summer) Nés from the Andean Northwest and Patagonia.
tor Kirchner just had to leave a physical Beautiful indigenous costumes are also
legacy, and this breathtaking cultural center featured, while an African and Asian room
is possibly his best. It’s located in Buenos showcases some priceless pieces.
Aires’ ex-main post office, a massive beaux-
Museo de la Policía Federal MUSEUM
arts structure eight stories tall and filling an
(Map p58; % 011-4394-6857; San Martín 353,
entire city block. Dozens of rooms hold art
7th fl; h 2-7pm Tue-Fri) F This quirky and
galleries, theaters, event halls, auditoriums
extensive police museum displays a whole
and even an Eva Perón room; there’s also a
slew of uniforms and medals, along with
rooftop terrace. The highlight, however, is
‘illegal activities’ exhibits (cockfighting and
La Ballena Azul, a giant concert hall that
gambling), drug paraphernalia (including
seats 1800 and is home to Argentina’s na-
an anal smuggling tube and a rubber arm
tional symphony orchestra.
stuck with a needle) and even a stuffed po-
Museo de la Ciudad MUSEUM lice dog. The fake Stradivarius violin and
(Map p58; % 011-4331-9855; Defensa 219; counterfeit bills are also entertaining. Look
h 11am-7pm) This upstairs museum was be- for it in an incongruous high-rise building;
ing remodeled at the time of research, but there’s no sign for the museum.
in the future you should expect exhibitions
Museo Mitre MUSEUM
on porteño life and history. Downstairs
(Map p58; % 011-4394-8240; San Martín 336;
is a large annex hall showcasing changing
admission AR$20, Mon free; h 1-5pm Mon-Fri)
exhibits, while next door is an atmospheric
restaurant with the Argentine art of filetea This museum is located in the colonial
do (artistic drawing) on its walls. house where Bartolomé Mitre – Argentina’s
first legitimate president elected under the
Museo Etnográfico Juan B constitution of 1853 – resided with his fam-
Ambrosetti MUSEUM ily from 1859 to 1906. Mitre’s term ran from
(Map p58; % 011-4331-7788; www.museoetno 1862 to 1868, and he spent much of it lead-
grafico.filo.uba.ar; Moreno 350; suggested donation ing the country’s armies against Paraguay.
AR$20; h 1-7pm Tue-Fri, 3-7pm Sat & Sun) This Two courtyards, salons, an office, a billiards
small but attractive anthropological mu room and Mitre’s old bedroom are part of
seum was created by Juan B Ambrosetti not this complex. Since part of the museum
58
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60
The Center, Congreso & San Telmo

æ Top Sights 28 Palacio del Congreso ..............................B4
1 Centro Cultural Kirchner ....................... G2 29 Puente de la Mujer ..................................H3
2 Plaza de Mayo ..........................................F3 Teatro Colón ..................................(see 93)
3 Plaza Dorrego...........................................F7 Teatro Nacional Cervantes ..........(see 94)
æ Sights Ø Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Cabildo ......................................................F4 30 Academia Buenos Aires ......................... F4

5 Casa Rosada............................................ G3 31 Expanish ................................................... F2
6 Catedral Metropolitana...........................F3 32 Rayuela .....................................................E6
7 Centro Cultural Borges........................... F1
8 Colección de Arte Amalia ÿ Sleeping
Lacroze de Fortabat .............................H1 33 América del Sur ....................................... E6
9 Corbeta Uruguay .................................... G2 34 Art Factory Hostel................................... E5
10 El Zanjón de Granados............................F6 35 Bohemia Buenos Aires ........................... F6
11 Fragata Sarmiento.................................. H4 36 Circus Hostel & Hotel ............................. E7
12 Galerías Pacífico ...................................... F1 37 Estoril Premium Hostel ..........................C4
13 Manzana de las Luces.............................F4 38 Goya Hotel................................................ D1
14 Mercado de San Telmo...........................F6 39 Gran Hotel Hispano................................. E3
15 Museo Argentino del Títere....................E6 40 Hotel Lyon ................................................A3
16 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo 41 Imagine Hotel...........................................C5
Buenos Aires ........................................ G7 42 Livin' Residence....................................... A1
17 Museo de Arte Moderno de 43 Lugar Gay ................................................. F7
Buenos Aires ........................................ G7 44 Mansión Vitraux....................................... F6
18 Museo de la Ciudad .................................F4 45 Milhouse Youth Hostel............................D4
19 Museo de la Policía Federal....................F2 46 Patios de San Telmo ...............................E6
20 Museo del Bicentenario ......................... G4 47 Portal del Sur ...........................................E4
Museo del Patrimonio ...................(see 27) 48 Sabatico Hostel .......................................C5
21 Museo Etnográfico Juan B 49 V & S Hostel Club .....................................E1
Ambrosetti.............................................F4 50 Yira Yira Guesthouse .............................. C1
22 Museo Mitre..............................................F2
23 Museo Mundial del Tango.......................E3 ú Eating
24 Museo Penitenciario................................F7 51 180 Burger Bar .........................................E1
25 Obelisco ................................................... D2 52 Aldo's Vinoteca........................................ F4
26 Palacio Barolo ......................................... C4 53 Aramburu .................................................D7
27 Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes ............ A1 54 Bar El Federal........................................... F6
is open air, you may find it closed during been converted into ritzy lofts, business of-
heavy rain. fices and upscale restaurants. Today this
neighborhood holds some of BA’s most ex-
Museo Mundial del Tango MUSEUM
pensive real estate.
(Map p58; % 011-4345-6967; Av de Mayo 833, In the mid-19th century the city’s mudflats
1st fl; admission AR$20; h 2:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri) were transformed into a modernized port
Located below the Academia Nacional del for Argentina’s burgeoning inter national
Tango is this tango museum. Just a couple of commerce. Puerto Madero was completed
large rooms are filled with tango memora- in 1898, but it had exceeded its budget – and
bilia, from old records and photos to historic by 1910 the amount of cargo was already too
literature and posters. Tango shoes are also great for the new port. Only the 1926 com-
featured, but the highlight has to be one of pletion of Retiro’s Puerto Nuevo solved BA’s
Carlos Gardel’s famous fedora hats. Another shipping problems.
entrance is at Rivadavia 830.
Reserva Ecológica
Costanera Sur NATURE RESERVE
1 Puerto Madero (% 011-4893-1588; Av Tristán Achaval Rodríguez
The newest and least conventional of the 1550; h 8am-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, to 6pm Apr-
capital’s 48 official barrios is Puerto Madero, Oct) F The beautifully marshy land of
located east of the Microcentro. Once an this 350-hectare nature reserve has become
old waterfront, it’s now a wonderful place a popular site for weekend picnics and
to stroll, boasting cobbled paths and a long walks. Bring binoculars if you’re a birder –
line of attractive brick warehouses that have over 300 bird species can be spotted, along
61
55 Broccolino................................................. E1 81 Ávila Bar....................................................C4

56 Café San Juan ..........................................F7 Café de los Angelitos .....................(see 71)
57 Café San Juan La Cantina.......................F6 Café Tortoni ................................... (see 72)
58 Chan Chan ............................................... C4 Centro Cultural Kirchner.................(see 1)
59 Chila.......................................................... H4 82 Confitería Ideal ........................................D2
60 Chochán....................................................E5 83 El Beso ......................................................A2
61 El Banco Rojo ...........................................F6 84 El Viejo Almacén ......................................G6
62 El Desnivel.................................................F6 85 La Trastienda ...........................................G5
63 Gran Parrilla del Plata .............................F6 86 La Ventana ............................................... F5
Granix ............................................. (see 90) 87 Los 36 Billares .........................................D4
64 i Central Market ...................................... H2 88 Luna Park .................................................G2
65 Latino Sandwich ......................................E4 89 Notorious.................................................. A1
66 Le Grill ...................................................... G3 90 Piazzolla Tango........................................ F3
67 Parrilla Peña .............................................B1 91 Rojo Tango ...............................................H5
68 Pizzería Güerrín ...................................... C2 92 Tango Queer ............................................ F5
Vita.................................................. (see 30) 93 Teatro Colón ............................................ D1
94 Teatro Nacional Cervantes .................... D1
û Drinking & Nightlife 95 Teatro Presidente Alvear .......................B2
69 Bahrein......................................................F2 96 Teatro San Martín ...................................C2
70 Bar Plaza Dorrego....................................F7 97 Todo Mundo............................................. F7
71 Café de los Angelitos.............................. A4
72 Café Tortoni..............................................E3 þ Shopping
73 Clásica y Moderna ................................... A1 98 Arte y Esperanza ..................................... D1
Coffee Town ................................... (see 14) 99 Arte y Esperanza .....................................G4
74 El Gato Negro .......................................... B2 100 Cualquier Verdura ................................... F7
75 Gibraltar ....................................................F6 101 Feria de San Telmo ................................. F7
76 La Cigale.................................................... F1 102 Gil Antiguedades ..................................... F7
77 La Puerta Roja..........................................E6 103 Materia Urbana........................................ F6
78 London City ..............................................F3 104 Punto Sur.................................................. F7
79 Palacio Alsina .......................................... D4 105 Vinotango ................................................. F6
80 Pride Cafe ................................................ G6 106 Walrus Books........................................... F6
107 Wildlife ......................................................D4
ý Entertainment 108 Zival's ........................................................B3
Academia Nacional del
Tango............................................(see 23)
with river turtles, iguanas and nutria. Fur- galleries devoted to Antonio Berni and Raúl
ther in at the eastern shoreline of the reserve Soldi (both famous Argentine painters) and
you can get a close-up view of the Río de la works by international stars like Dalí, Klimt,
Plata’s muddy waters. On warm weekends Rodin and Chagall; look for Warhol’s color-
and holidays you can rent bikes just outside ful take on Fortabat herself in the family
either the northern (Map p58) or south- portrait gallery. Call ahead for group tours
ern entrances. in English.
Tours are given on weekends; monthly
Friday night full-moon tours are also avail- Fragata Sarmiento MUSEUM
able (call for schedules). (Map p58; % 011-4334-9386; Dique 3; admis-

sion AR$5; h 10am-7pm) Over 23,000 Argen-
Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze tine naval cadets and officers have trained
de Fortabat MUSEUM aboard this 85m sailing vessel, which trav-
(Museo Fortabat; Map p58; % 011-4310-6600; eled around the world 37 times between
www.coleccionfortabat.org.ar; Olga Cossettini 141; 1899 and 1938. Onboard are detailed re-
admission AR$60; h noon-8pm Tue-Sun, tours in cords of its lengthy voyages, a gallery of
Spanish 3pm & 5pm Tue-Sun) Rivaling Palermo’s its commanding officers, plenty of nautical
Malba for cutting-edge looks is this stunning items including old uniforms, and even the
art museum, prominently located at the stuffed remains of Lampazo (the ship’s pet
northern end of Puerto Madero. It shows off dog), serenely posed. Peek into the ship’s
the collection of billionairess, philanthropist holds, galley and engine room and note
and socialite Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, the hooks where sleeping hammocks were
Argentina’s wealthiest woman. There are strung up.
62
Corbeta Uruguay MUSEUM wowed ever since. Worthwhile backstage
(Map p58; % 011-4314-1090; Dique 4; admission tours run frequently.
AR$5; h 10am-7pm) This 46m-long military
ship did surveys along Argentina’s coast Palacio del Congreso BUILDING
and supplied bases in Antarctica until it was (Congress Building; Map p58; Hipólito Yrigo
decommissioned in 1926, after 52 years of yen 1849) Colossal and topped with a green
service. Displayed below the main deck are dome, the Palacio del Congreso cost more
than twice its projected budget and set
interesting relics from Antarctica expedi

tions, such as crampons and snowshoes, a precedent for contemporary Argentine
along with historical photos and nautical public-
works projects. It was modeled on
items. Check out the tiny kitchen, complete the Capitol Building in Washington, DC, and
with mate (tea-like beverage) supplies (of was completed in 1906. Across the way, the
course). Monumento a los Dos Congresos honors
the congresses of 1810 in BA and 1816 in
Puente de la Mujer BRIDGE Tucumán, both of which led to Argentine
(Women’s Bridge; Map p58; Dique 3) The strik- independence.
ing Puente de la Mujer is Puerto Madero’s Senate tours are given at 12:30pm and
signature monument. Unveiled in 2001, this 5pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and
gleaming-white structure spans Dique 3 and Friday in English and Spanish; Chamber of
resembles a sharp fishhook or even a harp – Deputies tours are given at 11am, 1pm, 3pm
it’s supposed to represent a couple dancing and 5pm. Go to the entrance on Hipólito Yri-
the tango. Designed by acclaimed Spanish goyen and bring photo ID. All tours are free.
architect Santiago Calatrava and mostly
built in Spain, this 160m-long pedestrian Palacio Barolo BUILDING
bridge cost AR$6 million and rotates 90 de- (Map p58; % 011-4381-1885; www.palaciobarolo
grees to allow water traffic to pass. tours.com; Av de Mayo 1370; tours 45min AR$175,
1½hr AR$340) One of the Congreso area’s
most striking buildings is this 22-story con-
1 Congreso crete edifice. The building’s unique design
Congreso is an interesting mix of old-time was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy; its
cinemas and theaters, bustling commerce height (100m) is a reference to each canto
and hard-core politics. The buildings still (or song), the number of its floors (22) to
hold that European aura, but there’s more verses per song, and its divided structure
grittiness here than in the Microcentro: it has to hell, purgatory and heaven. Finished in
a more local city feel, with an atmosphere of 1923, Palacio Barolo was BA’s highest sky-
faded elegance and fewer fancy crowds. scraper until the construction of Edificio
Separating Congreso from the Micro- Kavanagh in Retiro. At the top is a light-
centro is Av 9 de Julio, ‘the widest street house with an amazing 360-degree view of
in the world!,’ as proud porteños love to the city.
boast. While this may be true – it’s 16 lanes The only way to see Palacio Barolo is via
at its widest – the nearby side streets Cer- tours; check ahead for times as they vary by
rito and Carlos Pellegrini make it look even the day.
broader.
Teatro Nacional Cervantes BUILDING
Teatro Colón BUILDING (Map p58; % 011-4815-8883; www.teatrocervan
(Map p58; % 011-4378-7127; www.teatrocolon. tes.gov.ar; Libertad 815) Six blocks southwest
org.ar; Tucumán 1171; tours AR$180; h tours 9am-of Plaza San Martín is the lavishly orna-
5pm) This gorgeous and impressive seven- mented Cervantes theater. From the grand
story building is one of BA’s most prominent tiled lobby to the main theater, you can
landmarks. It’s the city’s main performing- smell the long history of this place. The
arts venue and the only facility of its kind in Cervantes is definitely showing its age,
the country, a world-class forum for opera, with worn carpeting and rough edges, but
ballet and classical music with astounding improvement projects are planned. Until
acoustics. Occupying an entire city block, then, enjoy the faded elegance with a tour
the Colón can seat 2500 spectators and (call for current schedules). It presents
provide standing room for another 500. theater, comedy, musicals and dance.
The theater’s opening night was a presenta-
tion of Verdi’s Aïda, and visitors have been
63
Palacio de las Aguas
Corrientes BUILDING, MUSEUM 1 San Telmo
(Map p58; cnr Av Córdoba & Riobamba) F Full of charm and personality, San Telmo is
Swedish engineer Karl Nyströmer and Nor- one of BA’s most attractive and historically
wegian architect Olaf Boye helped create rich barrios. Narrow cobbled streets and
this gorgeous and eclectic waterworks build- low-story colonial housing retain an old-
ing. On the 2nd floor is the small and quirky time feel, though the tourist dollar contin-
Museo del Patrimonio (Map p58; % 011- ues to bring about changes.
6319-1104; h 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, tours in Spanish Historically, San Telmo is famous for the
11am Mon, Wed & Fri) F. The collection of violent street fighting that took place when
pretty tiles, faucets, handles, ceramic pipe British troops, at war with Spain, invaded
joints and plenty of old toilets and bidets the city in 1806. British forces advanced up
is well lit and displayed. Guided visits offer narrow Defensa, but an impromptu militia
a backstage glimpse of the building’s inner drove the British back to their ships. The vic-
workings and huge water tanks. Bring photo tory gave porteños confidence in their abil-
ID and enter via Riobamba. ity to stand apart from Spain, even though
the city’s independence had to wait another
Obelisco LANDMARK
three years.
(Map p58; cnr Avs 9 de Julio & Corrientes) The
After this San Telmo became a fashion-
city’s unmistakable landmark is the famous
able, classy neighborhood. In the late 19th
Obelisco, which soars 67m above the oval
century, however, a yellow-fever epidemic
Plaza de la República and was dedicated in
hit, driving the rich north into present-day
1936, on the 400th anniversary of the first
Recoleta. Many older mansions were subdi-
Spanish settlement on the Río de la Plata.
vided and became conventillos (tenements)
Following major soccer victories, boisterous
to house poor families. Years ago these con
fans circle the Obelisco in jubilant, honking
ventillos attracted artists and bohemians
celebration.
looking for cheap rent, but these days they’re
more likely to be filled with fancy shops.
BUENOS AIRES FOR FREE

Buenos Aires has a surprising range of free things to do. Many cultural centers offer free
or inexpensive events, and some museums have free or half-off days. Search www.bue.
gob.ar for upcoming festivals and events.
Centro Cultural Kirchner (p57) Has mostly free activities and concerts (check its
website), though you may have to reserve ahead.
Usina del Arte (p105) Offers several free concerts per week covering a wide range of
genres.
BA Free Tour (% 15-6395-3000; www.bafreetour.com; donation recommended) Actually a
‘donation’ group tour, but you can contribute only if you want to.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (p71) World-class, classical art museum that’s
worth a visit.
Reserva Ecológical Costanera Sur (p60) Marshy green space next to, but a
world away from, downtown BA.
Ferias Artesanales Usually held on weekends, these street markets are mostly craft
stalls, but there’s often ‘donation’ entertainment as well (including tango shows at Feria
de San Telmo, p108).
Polo tournaments The Palermo Open’s qualifying matches, held from September to
mid-October at Palermo’s Campo Argentino de Polo, are free to attend.
Tango lessons Head to the bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgrano (p73), a grassy
park in Belgrano, at 7pm from Friday to Sunday in summer. A milonga (dance event)
follows. Cultural centers sometimes offer free tango classes too.
64
oPlaza Dorrego PLAZA Museo Penitenciario MUSEUM
(Map p58) After Plaza de Mayo, Plaza (Map p58; % 011-4361-0917; Humberto Primo
Dorrego is the city’s oldest plaza. It dates 378; h 2-6pm Thu, Fri & Sun) F Dating from
to the 18th century and was originally a pit 1760, this building was a convent and later
stop for caravans bringing supplies into BA a women’s prison before it became a penal
from around Argentina. At the turn of the museum in 1980; reconstructed old jail cells
19th century it became a public square sur- give an idea of the prisoners’ conditions.
rounded by colonial buildings that survive Don’t miss the homemade playing cards
to this day. There’s still a wonderful old-time and shivs, plus the tennis balls used to hide
atmosphere here and cafe-restaurants that drugs.
will definitely take you back in time – if you
Museo Histórico Nacional MUSEUM
can ignore the nearby chain coffee shops.
(Map p65; % 011-4307-1182; Defensa 1600;
Plaza Dorrego is the heart of San Telmo’s
h 11am-6pm Wed-Sun) F Located in Parque
famous Sunday feria (street market).
Lezama is the city’s national historical mu-
El Zanjón de Granados ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE seum. It’s dedicated to Argentina’s revolu-
(Map p58; % 011-4361-3002; www.elzanjon. tion on May 25, 1810, though it covers a bit
com.ar; Defensa 755; tours 1hr Mon-Fri AR$170, of precolonial times too. There are several
40min Sun AR$150; h tours noon, 2pm & 3pm Mon- portraits of presidents and other major fig-
Fri, every 20min 11am-6pm Sun) One of the more ures of the time, along with a beautifully
unique places in BA is this amazing urban lit generals’ room. Peek into the re-created
architectural site. A series of old tunnels, version of José de San Martín’s bedroom – he
sewers and cisterns (built from 1730 on- was a military hero and liberator of Argen
wards) were constructed above a river trib- tina (along with other South American
utary and provided the base for one of BA’s countries).
oldest settlements, which later became a
Mercado de San Telmo MARKET
family mansion and then tenement housing
(Map p58; btwn Defensa & Bolívar, Carlos Calvo
and some shops. It’s best to reserve ahead
& Estados Unidos block; h 9am-8pm) This mar-
for tours.
ket was built in 1897 by Juan Antonio Bus-
Museo de Arte Moderno de chiazzo, the same Italian-born Argentine
Buenos Aires MUSEUM architect who designed Cementerio de la
(MAMBA; Map p58; % 0 1 1- 4300-9139; www. Recoleta. It occupies the inside of an entire
museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av San city block, though you wouldn’t be able to
Juan 350; admission AR$20, Tue free; h 11am-7pm tell just by looking at the modest sidewalk
Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) Housed in a recycled entrances. The wrought-iron interior (note
tobacco warehouse, this spacious, multi the amazing original ceiling) makes it one of
story museum shows off the works of (most- BA’s most atmospheric markets; locals shop
ly) Argentine contemporary artists. Expect here for fresh produce and meat. Peripheral
exhibitions showcasing everything from antique stalls offer old treasures.
photography to industrial design, and from If you like coffee, look for the Coffee
figurative to conceptual art. There’s also an Town (Map p58; % 011-4361-0019; www.coffee
auditorium and gift shop. townargentina.com; Bolivar 976, inside Mercado de
San Telmo; h 10am-8pm) kiosk.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Buenos Aires MUSEUM
(MACBA; Map p58; % 011-5299-2010; www. 1 La Boca
macba.com.ar; Av San Juan 328; admission AR$50; Blue collar and raffish to the core, La Boca
h noon-7pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 11am-7:30pm Sat & is very much a locals’ neighborhood. In the
Sun) Art lovers shouldn’t miss this fine mu- mid-19th century La Boca became home to
seum, which specializes in geometric ab- Spanish and Italian immigrants who set-
straction drawn from the technology-driven tled along the Riachuelo, the sinuous river
world that surrounds us today (think archi- that divides the city from the surrounding
tecture, maps and computers). So rather province of Buenos Aires. Many came dur-
than traditional paintings, you’ll see large, ing the booming 1880s and ended up work-
colorful and minimalist pieces meant to in- ing in the many meat-packing plants and
spire reflection. warehouses here, processing and shipping
out much of Argentina’s vital beef exports.
65
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A B C D
La Boca
æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca 8 Hierbabuena ............................................A2
Benito Quinquela Martín..................... C4 Proa Cafe.......................................... (see 3)
æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife

2 El Caminito............................................... B4 9 Doppelgänger .......................................... A1
3 Fundación Proa....................................... C4
4 La Bombonera Stadium......................... B3 ý Entertainment
5 Museo de la Pasión Boquense.............. B4 10 Usina del Arte...........................................D2
6 Museo Histórico Nacional ..................... A2
þ Shopping
ÿ Sleeping 11 Moebius .................................................... A1
7 Mundo Bolívar ......................................... A2
After sprucing up the shipping barges, the color also comes from the rainbow slick of
port dwellers splashed leftover paint on industrial waste on the river.
the corrugated-metal sidings of their own El Caminito (Map p65; Av Don Pedro
houses – unwittingly giving La Boca what de Mendoza, near Del Valle Iberlucea), near the
would become one of its claims to fame. southern edge of La Boca, is the barrio’s
Unfortunately, some of the neighborhood’s most famous street – and has a reputation
66
Going to a Fútbol
Game
In a land where Maradona is God, going
to see a fútbol (soccer) game can be a
religious experience. The superclásico
between the Boca Juniors and River Plate
has been called the number one sporting
event to see before you die, but even the
less-celebrated games will give you insight
into Argentina’s national passion.
Attending a regular match isn’t too
difficult. Keep an eye on the clubs’
websites, which inform when and where
tickets will be sold; often they’re sold at
the stadium before the game. You’ll get
a choice between populares (bleachers)
and plateas (seats). Try to avoid the
populares; these can get really rowdy and
can sometimes be dangerous.
If you want to see a clásico – a match
between two major teams – getting a
ticket is much harder. Boca doesn’t even
put tickets for its key matches on sale; all
tickets go to socios (members). Instead,
you’re better off going with an agency
such as Tangol or via organizations like
www.fcbafa.com or www.landingpadba.
com. It won’t be cheap, but it’s much
easier getting a ticket this way (and safer,
with less chance of fake tickets).
However, if you do want to chance
getting your own clásico or superclásico TEAMS
ticket, you can always look online at
Buenos Aires has two dozen professional
www.buenosaires.craigslist.org or www. football teams – the most of any city in the
mercadolibre.com.ar. If you’re confident in world. Here are some of them:
your bargaining skills, scalpers exist, too.
Boca Juniors (%011-5777-1200; www.
Dress down, and try to look inconspicuous bocajuniors.com.ar)
when you go. Take minimal cash and keep
River Plate (%011-4789-1200; www.cariv-
your camera close. You probably won’t get
erplate.com.ar)
in with water bottles, and food and drink
in the stadium is meager and expensive. Racing (%011-4371-9995; www.racing
club.com)
Arrive early to enjoy the insane build-up to
the game. Most importantly – don’t wear the Independiente (%011-4229-7600; www.
opposing team’s colors. clubaindependiente.com/en)
San Lorenzo de Almagro
(%011-4016-2600; www.sanlorenzo.
com.ar)
Clockwise from top left

1. River Plate supporters 2. Boca Juniors player
3. La Bombonera Stadium
67
AMILCAR ORFALI/STR/GETTY IMAGES © SUNSINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHRIS BRUNSKILL LTD/GETTY IMAGES ©
68
tions as recurring themes, and painted with
BOCA WARNING broad, rough brush strokes and dark colors.
There are outdoor sculptures on the rooftop
La Boca is a locals’ neighborhood, and
terraces, and the top tier has awesome views
while kids and older folks safely walk
of the port.
the streets every day, visitors can stand
out away from the touristy sights. It’s Museo de la Pasión Boquense MUSEUM
best if you don’t stray too far from the (Map p65; % 011-4362-1100; www.museobo
riverside walk, El Caminito or La Bom- quense.com; Brandsen 805; admission AR$115-130;

bonera Stadium, especially while toting h 10am-6pm) High-tech and spiffy, this fút
expensive cameras. And certainly don’t bol (soccer) museum chronicles the rough-
cross the bridge over the Riachuelo. and-tumble neighborhood of La Boca, La
Buses 29, 64 and 152 go from Palermo Bombonera Stadium, soccer idols’ histories,
or the city center to La Boca. Taxis are video highlights, the championships, the
best after dark. trophies and, of course, the gooooals. There’s
Some companies offer Boca day a 360-degree theater in a giant soccer-ball
tours, which are a good way to see this auditorium, an old jersey collection and a
neighborhood. Check out www.ba gift shop. The museum is right under the
culturalconcierge.com and www.anda stadium, a couple of blocks from the tourist
travel.com. part of El Caminito; get a tour of the pitch
for a few extra pesos.
for being a tourist trap. Here, busloads of
camera-laden tourists browse the small 1 Retiro
crafts fair, watch tango dancers perform for Well-located Retiro is one of the ritziest
spare change and are prepositioned by touts neighborhoods in BA, but it hasn’t always
to pose for photographs alongside tango been this way. The area was the site of a
props. A riverside pedestrian walkway offers monastery during the 17th century and
a close-up sniff of the Riachuelo, while a few later became the retiro (country retreat)
museums provide mental stimulation. of Agustín de Robles, a Spanish gover-
nor. Since then, Retiro’s current Plaza San
Fundación Proa MUSEUM
Martín – which sits on a bluff – has played
(Map p65; % 011-4104-1000; www.proa.org; Av
host to a slave market, a military fort and
Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929; admission AR$40;
even a bullring. Things are more quiet and
h 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Only the most cutting-
exclusive these days.
edge national and international artists are
invited to show at this elegant art museum, Plaza San Martín PLAZA
which features high ceilings, white walls (Map p70) French landscape architect
and large display halls. Stunning contem- Carlos Thays designed the leafy Plaza San
porary installations utilize a wide variety of Martín, which is surrounded by some of
media and themes, while the rooftop terrace Buenos Aires’ most impressive public build-
is the stylish place in La Boca for relaxing ings. The park’s most prominent monument
with a drink or a snack – it boasts a view is the obligatory equestrian statue of José
of the Riachuelo. Plenty of cultural offerings de San Martín; important visiting digni-
include talks, lectures, workshops, music taries often come to honor the country’s
concerts and cinema screenings. liberator by leaving wreaths at its base. On
the downhill side of the park you’ll see the
oMuseo de Bellas Artes de Monumento a los Caídos de Malvinas
La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín MUSEUM
(Map p70), a memorial to the young men
(Map p65; % 011-4301-1080; www.museoquin
who died in the Falklands War.
quela.gov.ar; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1835;
suggested donation AR$20; h 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, Palacio Paz BUILDING
11:15am-6pm Sat & Sun) Once the home and (Círculo Militar; Map p70; % ext 147, 011-4311-
studio of surrealist painter Benito Quinquela 1071; www.palaciopaz.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 750;
Martín (1890–1977), this fine-arts museum tours in English/Spanish AR$100/70; h tours
exhibits his works and those of other classic English 3:30pm Thu, Spanish 3pm Tue, 11am & 3pm
Argentine artists. Martín used silhouettes of Wed-Fri) Once the private residence of José
laboring men, smokestacks and water reflec- C Paz – founder of the still-running news
69
paper La Prensa – this opulent, French-style
palace (1909) is the grandest in BA. Inside 1 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
its 12,000 sq meters are ornate rooms with BA’s wealthiest citizens live and breathe in
marble walls, salons gilded in real gold and Recoleta, the city’s most exclusive and fash-
halls boasting beautiful wood-tiled floors. ionable neighborhood. In the 1870s many
The pièce de résistance is the circular grand upper-class porteños relocated here from
hall with mosaic floors, marble details and San Telmo during a yellow-fever epidemic.
stained-glass cupola. Nearly all materials Today you can best see the wealth of this
came from Europe and were then assem- sumptuous quarter on Av Alvear, where
bled here. many of the old mansions (and newer inter-
national boutiques) are located.
Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano
With parks, museums and French ar-
Isaac Fernández Blanco MUSEUM
chitecture, Recoleta is best known for its
(Palacio Noel; Map p70; % 011-4327-0228; www.
Cementerio de la Recoleta. On weekends, the
museofernandezblanco.buenosaires.gob.ar; Sui-
Plaza Intendente Alvear hosts a popular
pacha 1422; admission AR$10, Wed free; h 1-7pm
crafts fair. A little further north is the 20m-
Tue-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun) Dating from 1921,
high sculptural flower Floralis Genérica,
this museum is in an old mansion of the
whose giant metal petals ‘close up’ at night.
neocolonial Peruvian style that developed
Barrio Norte is a subneighborhood south-
as a reaction against French influences in
west of Recoleta, but the lines are blurred.
turn-of-the-19th-century Argentine archi
tecture. Its exceptional collection of co- oCementerio de la Recoleta CEMETERY
lonial art includes silverwork from Alto (Map p70; % 0800-444-2363; cnr Junín & Guido;
Perú (present-day Bolivia), religious paint- AR$100; h 7am-5:30pm) This cemetery is
ings and baroque instruments (including arguably BA’s number-one attraction, and a
a Guarneri violin). The curved ceiling in must on every tourist’s list. You can wander
the main salon is beautifully painted, and for hours in this amazing city of the dead,
there’s also a peaceful garden. where countless ‘streets’ are lined with im-
pressive statues and marble mausoleums.
Museo de Armas MUSEUM
Peek into the crypts and check out the dusty
(Weapons Museum; Map p70; % ext 179, 011-
coffins and try to decipher the history of its
4311-1071; www.museodearmas.com.ar; Av Santa
inhabitants. Past presidents, military heroes,
Fe 702; admission AR$40; h 1-7pm Mon-Fri) Even
influential politicians and the just plain rich
if you’ve spent time in the armed forces, you
and famous have made it past the gates here.
probably have never seen so many weapons
of destruction. This maze-like museum ex- Basílica de Nuestra Señora
hibits a frighteningly large but excellent del Pilar CHURCH
collection of over 3500 bazookas, grenade (Map p70; % 011-4806-2209; www.basilicadelpilar.
launchers, cannons, machine guns, mus- org.ar; Junín 1904; museum AR$6; h museum
kets, pistols, armor, lances and swords; even 10:30am-6:10pm Mon-Sat, 2:30pm-6:10pm Sun)
the gas mask for a combat horse is on dis-
play. The evolution of rifles and handguns
is especially thoroughly documented, and EVITA’S GRAVE
there’s a small but impressive Japanese
weapons room. She’s Recoleta’s biggest star, and
everyone who visits Cemeterio de la
Torre Monumental LANDMARK Recoleta wants to see her final resting
(Map p70; % 011-4311-0186; Plaza Fuerza Aérea place. Here’s how to find it: go up to the
Argentina; h 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat first major ‘intersection’ from the en-
& Sun) F Standing prominently across trance, where there’s a statue. Turn left
from Plaza San Martín, this 76m-high 90 degrees, continue until a mausoleum
miniature version of London’s Big Ben was blocks your way, go around it to the
a donation from the city’s British communi- right and turn right at the wide ‘street.’
ty in 1916 and built with materials shipped After three blocks look to the left and
over from England. You can enter inside the you’ll likely see people at her site, along
base of the tower, where there are a few his- with bunches of flowers. Don’t expect
torical photos, but folks aren’t allowed up anything grandiose; it’s a pretty modest
the elevator. mausoleum.
70
500 m
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71
Retiro, Recoleta & Barrio Norte

æ Top Sights 17 Poetry Building ........................................A3
1 Cementerio de la Recoleta .................... B2
2 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes............B1 ú Eating
18 Como en Casa..........................................B3
æ Sights 19 Cumaná ....................................................B4
3 Basílica de Nuestra Señora del 20 Dadá ..........................................................E4
Pilar........................................................ B2 21 El Sanjuanino ...........................................C2
4 Monumento a los Caidos de 22 Elena..........................................................D2
Malvinas .................................................E3 23 Filo .............................................................E4
5 Museo de Armas......................................E4 24 Rodi Bar ....................................................B2
6 Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano
Isaac Fernández Blanco...................... D2 û Drinking & Nightlife
7 Museo Participativo de Ciencias .......... B2 25 BASA Basement Bar...............................E3
8 Palacio Paz .............................................. D4 26 Casa Bar ...................................................B4
9 Plaza San Martín......................................E3 27 Florería Atlántico.....................................D3
10 Torre Monumental...................................E3 28 Flux ............................................................D4
29 Gran Bar Danzón .....................................C3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 30 La Biela .....................................................B2
11 VOS........................................................... C4 31 Milión.........................................................C4
Pony Line Bar................................. (see 22)
ÿ Sleeping 32 Shamrock Basement..............................B3
12 Alvear Palace Hotel ................................ C2
13 Art Suites ................................................. A3 þ Shopping
14 Casa Calma.............................................. D4 33 Autoría ......................................................D4
15 Hotel Lion D'or ........................................ A2 34 El Ateneo ..................................................B4
16 Hotel Tres Sargentos ..............................F4 35 Feria Artesanal.........................................B2
The centerpiece of this gleaming white co- Borges. This museum (located in his old
lonial church, built by Jesuits in 1716, is a mansion) showcases over 80 of his unique
Peruvian altar adorned with silver from Ar- and colorful yet subdued paintings. So-
gentina’s northwest. Inside, head to the left lar’s Klee-esque style includes fantastically
to visit the small but historic cloisters mu themed, almost cartoonish figures placed
seum; it’s home to religious vestments, paint- in surreal cubist landscapes. It’s great stuff,
ings, writings and interesting artifacts, and and bizarre enough to put him in a class of
there are good views of Recoleta cemetery. his own.
oMuseo Nacional de
Bellas Artes MUSEUM
1 Palermo
(Map p70; % 011-5288-9900; www.mnba.gob. Palermo is heaven on Earth for BA’s middle
ar; Av del Libertador 1473; h 12:30-8:30pm Tue- class. Its large, grassy parks – regally
Fri, 9:30am-8:30pm Sat & Sun) F This is punctuated with grand monuments – are
Argentina’s most important national arts popular destinations on weekends, when
museum and contains many key works by families fill the shady lanes, cycle the bike
Benito Quinquela Martín, Xul Solar, Ed- paths and paddle on the peaceful lakes.
wardo Sívori and other Argentine artists Many important museums and elegant em-
of the 19th and 20th centuries. There are bassies are also located here, and certain
also impressive international works by subneighborhoods of Palermo have become
European masters such as Cézanne, Degas, the city’s hottest destinations for shopping
Picasso, Rembrandt, Toulouse-Lautrec and and nightlife.
Van Gogh. Everything is well displayed, and Palermo’s green spaces haven’t always
there’s also a cinema, concerts and classes. been for the masses. The area around
Parque 3 de Febrero was originally the
Museo Xul Solar MUSEUM 19th-century dictator Juan Manuel de Rosas’
(Map p84; % 011-4824-3302; www.xulsolar.org. private retreat and became public parkland
ar; Laprida 1212; admission AR$20; h noon-8pm after his fall from power. Within these green
Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, closed Feb, tours in Spanish 4pm spaces you’ll now find a zoo, a planetarium
Tue & Thu, 3:30pm Sat) Xul Solar was a paint- and several gardens. Just south of the zoo is
er, inventor, poet and friend of Jorge Luis Plaza Italia, Palermo’s main transport hub.
72
BUENOS AIRES FOR CHILDREN

Palermo’s Parque 3 de Febrero (Map p84; cnr Avs del Libertador & de la Infanta Isabel;
g 10, 34, 130) is a huge park where on weekends traffic isn’t allowed on the ring road
(rent bikes, boats and in-line skates nearby). Other good stops here include a planetar-
ium, a zoo and a Japanese garden. If you’re downtown and need a nature break, there’s
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (p60), a large nature preserve with good
bird-watching.
Shopping malls make safe destinations for families – one of the best is Mercado de
Abasto (p74), which boasts a full-blown children’s ‘museum’ (ie fancy playground)
and mini-amusement park.
In San Telmo, check out the puppet museum, Museo Argentino del Títere (Map
p58; % 011-4307-6917; www.museoargdeltitere.com.ar; Estados Unidos 802; h vary widely,
call ahead) F, which has inexpensive weekend shows.
Recoleta’s Museo Participativo de Ciencias (Map p70; % 011-4806-3456; www.
mpc.org.ar; Junín 1930; admission AR$65; h vary widely, check website) is a hands-on science
museum with interactive learning displays. In Caballito is the good Museo Argentino
de Ciencias Naturales (p74).
Christian parents might want to take the kids to Tierra Santa (p73), a unique and
tacky (but fun) religious theme park. Not far away is Parque Norte (p75), a large
water park that’s perfect on a hot day.
Tigre, north of the city, makes a great day excursion. Get there via the Tren de la Cos-
ta; it ends right at Parque de la Costa (% 011-4002-6000; www.parquedelacosta.com.ar;
Vivanco 1509; admission from AR$150), a typical amusement park with fun rides.
Outside the city is the exceptional zoo, Parque Temaikén (% 034-8843-6900; www.
temaiken.org.ar; RP25, Km1, Escobar; adult/child AR$245/200; h 10am-7pm Wed-Sun Dec-Feb,
to 6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Nov). Only the most charming animal species are on display (think
meerkats, pygmy hippos and white tigers), roaming freely around natural enclosures. An
excellent aquarium comes with touch pools, and plenty of interactive areas provide men-
tal stimulation. Some Tuesdays are discounted.
To help calm down temper tantrums, visit one of BA’s dozens of excellent ice-cream
shops.
One of the capital’s most trendsetting ardo Costantini displays his fine collection
areas is Palermo Viejo, a scenic neighbor- of Latin American art, which includes work
hood with colonial buildings and plenty by Argentines Xul Solar and Antonio Berni,
of fine shopping, dining and nightlife; it’s plus some pieces by Mexicans Diego Rivera
further subdivided into Palermo Soho and and Frida Kahlo. A cinema screens art-house
Palermo Hollywood. The heart of this neigh- films, and there’s a gift shop and upscale
borhood is Plaza Serrano (Map p84), a cafe as well.
small but very popular plaza surrounded
by bars and restaurants, and host to a small Museo Nacional de
weekend arts fair. Another popular but Arte Decorativo MUSEUM
much smaller neighborhood to the north is (Map p84; % 011-4802-6606; www.mnad.

Las Cañitas; many restaurants and other org; Av del Libertador 1902; admission AR$20, Tue
nightspots here attract hordes of hipsters at free, tours AR$15; h 2-7pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun
night, when Av Báez clogs with traffic. in Jan) This museum is housed in the stun-
ning beaux-arts mansion called Residencia
oMuseo de Arte Latinoamericano Errázuriz Alvear (1917), once the residence
de Buenos Aires MUSEUM of Chilean aristocrat Matías Errázuriz and
(Malba; Map p84; % 011-4808-6500; www. his wife, Josefina de Alvear. It now displays
malba.org.ar; Av Figueroa Alcorta 3415; admission many of their very posh belongings, along
AR$75, Wed AR$36; h noon-8pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm with beautiful features such as Corinthian
Wed) Sparkling inside its glass walls, this columns and a gorgeous marble staircase
airy modern arts museum is one of BA’s fan- inspired by the Palace of Versailles. There’s
ciest. Millionaire and philanthropist Edu- also an amazing hall which has a carved
73
wooden ceiling, stained-glass panels and a the ‘world’s first religious theme park’ – a
huge stone fireplace. There’s also a lovely very tacky place. It boasts animatronic dio-
cafe outside. ramas of Adam and Eve and the Last Sup-
per, but its pièce de résistance is a giant
Jardín Zoológico ZOO
Jesus rising from a fake mountain – aka the
(Map p84; % 011-4011-9900; www.zoobuenos resurrection – every half-hour. It’s just north
aires.com.ar; cnr Avs General Las Heras & Sarmien- of Palermo, near the water.
to; adult/child AR$180/free; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun
Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep) Set on 18 hectares, Centro Islámico Rey Fahd MOSQUE
Buenos Aires’ Jardín Zoológico is a decent (Map p84; % 011-4899-0201; www.ccislamico
zoo, housing over 350 species – many in reyfahd.org.ar; Av Int Bullrich 55; h tours noon Tue,
‘natural’ and good-sized animal enclosures. Thu & Sat) This landmark mosque, built by
On sunny weekends it’s packed with families Saudis on land donated by former president
enjoying the large green spaces and artificial Carlos Menem, is southeast of Las Cañitas.
lakes. Some of the buildings housing the an- Free tours in Spanish are offered three-times
imals are impressive; check out the elephant weekly (bring your passport, dress conserva-
house. An aquarium, a monkey island, rep- tively and enter via Av Int Bullrich).
tile house and large aviary are other high-
lights; a few special exhibits (like the sea
lion show or carousel) cost extra.
1 Belgrano
Bustling Av Cabildo, the racing heartbeat
Jardín Japonés GARDENS of Belgrano, is an overwhelming jumble
(Map p84; % 011-4804-4922; www.jardinjapones. of noise and neon; it’s a two-way street of
org.ar; cnr Avs Casares & Berro; adult/child AR$50/ clothing, shoe and homeware shops that
free; h 10am-6pm) First opened in 1967 and does its part to support the mass consumer-
then donated to the city of Buenos Aires in ism of porteños.
1979 (on the centenary of the arrival of Ar- Only a block east of Av Cabildo, Plaza
gentina’s first Japanese immigrants), Jardín Belgrano is the site of a modest but fun
Japonés makes a peaceful rest stop. Inside weekend crafts fair.
there’s a Japanese restaurant along with Near the plaza stands the Italianate Ig-
lovely ponds filled with koi and spanned by lesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, a
pretty bridges. Japanese culture can be expe- church popularly known as ‘La Redonda’
rienced through occasional exhibitions and because of its impressive dome. Four blocks
workshops on ikebana, haiku, origami, taiko northeast of Plaza Belgrano is Barrancas de
(Japanese drumming) and other events. Belgrano, an attractive park on one of the
few natural hillocks in the city. And nearby,
Museo Evita MUSEUM
just across the train tracks, Belgrano’s small
(Map p84; % 011-4807-0306; www.museoevita.
Chinatown offers decent Chinese restau-
org; Lafinur 2988; admission AR$40; h 11am-7pm
rants and cheap goods.
Tue-Sun) Everybody who’s anybody in Argen-
tina has their own museum, and Eva Perón Museo de Arte Español Enrique
(1919–52) is no exception. Museo Evita Larreta MUSEUM
immortalizes the Argentine heroine with (% 011-4784-4040; Juramento 2291; admission
plenty of videos, historical photos, books, AR$10; h 1-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun)
old posters and newspaper headlines. How- Hispanophile novelist Enrique Larreta
ever, the prize memorabilia has to be her (1875–1961) resided in this elegant colonial-
wardrobe: dresses, shoes, handbags, hats style house across from Plaza Belgrano,
and blouses lie proudly behind glass, for- which now displays his private art collec-
ever pressed and pristine. Even Evita’s old tion to the public. It’s a grand and spacious
wallets and perfumes are on display. Our old building, and contains classic Spanish
favorite is a picture of her kicking a soccer art, period furniture, wood-carved religious
ball – in heels. items, and shields and armor. The wood and
tiled floors are beautiful, and everything is
Tierra Santa THEME PARK
richly lit. Tours in Spanish are given at 5pm
(% 011-4784-9551; www.tierrasanta.com.ar; Av
Monday to Friday, and 4pm and 6pm on
Costanera R Obligado 5790; adult/child AR$100/40;
Saturday and Sunday. Be sure to stroll the
h 9am-9pm Fri, noon-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays Apr-
lovely gardens out back.
Nov, 4pm-10pm Fri-Sun & holidays Dec-Mar) Even
respectful, devout Catholics will find this –
74
Espacio Memoria y Derechos The historic Mercado de Abasto (1895) has
Humanos MUSEUM been recycled by US-Hungarian financier
(ESMA; %011-4702-9920; www.espaciomemoria. George Soros into one of the most beau-
ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; hnoon-5pm tiful shopping centers in the city. The
Fri-Sun) F Argentina’s Dirty War (1976– building, once a large vegetable market,
83) was the darkest chapter in its history. received an architectural prize in 1937 for
Human-rights groups estimate that up to its Av Corrientes facade. It holds more
B u e n os Ai re s A ctivities
30,000 people were kidnapped, tortured than 200 stores, a large cinema, a large
and killed under the military dictatorship food court and the only kosher McDonald’s
of Jorge Rafael Videla. Most of these atroc- outside Israel (the one upstairs and next to
ities happened right here at this old Naval Burger King).
campus called ESMA, described by some as
Argentina’s Auschwitz. Today these build- 2 Activities
ings have been turned into a museum as a The extensive greenery in Palermo pro-
memorial for the victims, and as a way to vides good areas for recreation, especially
help prevent such an unimaginable occur- on weekends when the ring road around
rence from happening again. the rose garden is closed to motor vehicles.
Recoleta has grassy parks also, if you can
1 Once & Around avoid the dog piles. Best of all is the Reserva
Ecológica Costanera Sur, an ecological para-
BA’s most ethnically colorful neighborhood
dise just east of Puerto Madero; it’s excellent
is Once, with sizable groups of Jews, Peruvi-
for walks, runs, bike rides and even a bit of
ans and Koreans. The cheap market around
wildlife viewing.
Once train station always bustles, with ven-
dors selling their goods on sidewalks, and Cycling
crowds everywhere. BA is not the greatest city for bicycles, but
there are a few exceptions. It might be best
Museo Argentino de Ciencias
to join a city bike tour, which includes bi-
Naturales MUSEUM
cycle and guide; tour companies usually
(Natural Science Museum; Map p84; % 011-
offer bike rentals too. And if you’re around
4982-6595; www.macn.gov.ar; Av Ángel Gallardo
on the first Sunday of each month, check
490; admission AR$15; h 2-7pm) Way over to
out BA’s version of Critical Mass (www.
the west, the oval Parque del Centenario
masacriticabsas.com.ar). For more info on
is a large open space containing this ex-
cycling around BA, see the Getting Around
cellent natural-science museum. On dis-
section (p112).
play are large collections of meteorites,
rocks and minerals, seashells, insects and Horseback Riding
dinosaur skeleton replicas. The taxidermy Caballos a la Par HORSEBACK RIDING
and skeleton rooms are especially good. (% 011-15-5248-3592; www.caballos-alapar.com) If
Bring the kids; they can mingle with the you want to get out of town for a few hours
hundreds of children who visit on school and hop on a horse, forget those touristy
excursions. estancias (ranches) and check out Caballos
a la Par. Guided rides are given in a provin-
Museo Casa Carlos Gardel MUSEUM
cial park about an hour’s drive from Buenos
(Map p84; % 011-4964-2071; Jean Jaurés 735;
Aires. Even if you’ve never ridden before,
admission AR$5, Wed free; h 11am-6pm Mon &
you might be galloping by sundown.
Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) Small but note-
worthy is this tribute to tango’s most famous Fútbol
voice. Located in Gardel’s old house, this Inspired by watching professional fútbol
museum traces his partnership with José teams play the game? Well, you can partake
Razzano and displays old memorabilia like yourself – just contact FC Buenos Aires
photos, records and news clippings. There Fútbol Amigos (www.fcbafa.com) to join
isn’t a whole lot to see, so it’s best for real fellow travelers, expats and locals for some
fans or just the curious; look for the cluster pickup fun. The best part might be the asa
of colorfully painted buildings. dos (barbecues) that often happen after the
Mercado de Abasto BUILDING
games, plus of course the friends you make
(Map p84; % 011-4959-3400; www.abasto-shop
on the pitch.
ping.com.ar; Av Corrientes 3247; h 10am-10pm)
75
Swimming VOS LANGUAGE COURSE
Finding a good swimming hole isn’t easy in (Map p70; % 011-4812-1140; www.vosbuenos
BA – unless you’re lucky enough to be stay- aires.com; Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, Recoleta)
ing at a hotel with a decent pool (or are OK
Foto Ruta PHOTOGRAPHY
with splashing around indoors at the near-
(% 011-6030-8881; This
www.foto-ruta.com)
est gym).
workshop is run by two expat women who
Parque Norte SWIMMING send folks out into neighborhoods with a
B u e n os Ai re s C ourses
(% 011-4787-1382; www.parquenorte.com; Avs few ‘themes’ to photograph – then everyone
Cantilo & Guiraldes; admission Mon-Fri AR$80, Sat watches the slide show.
AR$100, Sun AR$110; h pool 8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri,
to 10pm Sat & Sun) When the temperatures T Tours
and humidity skyrocket, head north to this There are plenty of organized tours, from
large water park in Belgrano. It’s great for the large tourist-bus variety to guided bike
families with huge shallow pools (perhaps rides to straight-up free (ie donation) walks.
4ft at their deepest), plus a large water slide Some travel agencies also offer tours, includ-
and lots of umbrellas and lounge chairs ing some very adventurous ones.
(both cost extra). There are plenty of grassy Companies offer tours in English and pos-
areas in which to enjoy a picnic or mate sibly other languages, and most have private
(tea-like beverage). Bring your own towels, tour options too.
and make sure you’re clean – quick ‘health’
inspections are done to check for such un- BA Walking Tours WALKING TOUR
pleasantries as athlete’s foot or lice. (% 15-5773-1001; www.ba-walking-tours.com) Day

tours, night tours, historic tours and tango
C Courses tours.
Visitors have many opportunities to study Biking Buenos Aires BICYCLE TOUR
almost anything in BA, from cooking to (%011-4300-5373; www.bikingbuenosaires.com)
tango. Most cultural centers offer a wide Friendly American and Argentine guides
variety of classes at affordable rates. take you on various tours of Buenos Aires;
BA is a major destination for students of tour themes include architecture and
Spanish, and good institutes are common. graffiti.
Nearly all organize social activities and
homestay programs, and all have private Buenos Aires Street Art WALKING TOUR
classes. When you’re looking for an institute, (www.buenosairesstreetart.com) Walking tour
it’s always best to ask around for current highlighting some of BA’s most interesting
recommendations. street art. Supports local artists too.
Spanglish LANGUAGE COURSE Buenos Tours WALKING TOUR

(www.spanglishexchange.com) For something (www.buenostours.com) Well-run private tours
different, try Spanglish. It’s set up like speed guided by friendly, knowledgeable and re-
dating; you’ll speak five minutes in English sponsible local expats.
and five in Spanish, then switch partners.
Graffitimundo TOUR
Academia Buenos Aires LANGUAGE COURSE (% 15-3683-3219; www.graffitimundo.com) Ex-
(Map p58; % 011-4345-5954; www.academia cellent tours of some of BA’s best graffiti.
buenosaires.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 571, 4th fl, Mi- Learn artists’ history and the local graf
crocentro) fiti culture. Several tours available; stencil
workshops too.
Expanish LANGUAGE COURSE
(Map p58; % 011-5252-3040; www.expanish. Urban Biking BICYCLE TOUR
com; 25 de Mayo 457, 4th fl, Microcentro) (% 011-4314-2325; www.urbanbiking.com) One-
and two-day cycling tours, along with bike
Rayuela LANGUAGE COURSE and kayak excursions to Tigre.
(Map p58; % 011-4300-2010; www.spanish-argen
tina.com.ar; Chacabuco 852, 1st fl, No 11, San Telmo) z Festivals & Events
Vamos LANGUAGE COURSE Check with tourist offices for other happen-
(Map p84; % 011-5984-2201; www.vamospanish. ings and for exact dates, as some can vary
com; Av Coronel Díaz 1736, Palermo) from year to year.
76
Festival Internacional de Cine Some places will help with transportation
Independiente FILM to and from the airport if you reserve ahead
(http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar; h mid-Apr) of time. The most expensive hotels will take
Highlights national and international inde- credit cards but cheaper places might not.
pendent films at venues all around Buenos Some kind of breakfast is included nearly
Aires. everywhere, often consisting of just a few
medialunas (croissants) and coffee or tea –
Arte BA ART
B u e n os Ai re s S leeping
though many fancier places offer continen-

(www.arteba.org; h May) Popular event high- tal or buffet breakfasts.
lighting contemporary art, introducing ex- Rates at top-end hotels often vary de-
citing new young artists, and showing off pending on occupancy levels. As a general
top gallery works. rule, calling ahead or reserving via websites
Festival y Mundial de Tango TANGO FESTIVAL usually results in better pricing. At Hostel-
(http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar; h mid-Aug) ling International (HI) hostels, buying a
Masterful tango performances, tango mov- membership card gives a discount off listed
ies, classes, workshops, conferences and prices.
competitions in venues all over Buenos Prices listed here are for high season
Aires. (roughly November to February) and in-
clude BA’s whopping 21% accommodation
Vinos y Bodegas WINE tax. Rates can skyrocket during peak sea-
(www.expovinosybodegas.com.ar; h Sep) A can’t- sons (Christmas and Easter) or drop during
miss event for wine aficionados, offering slow seasons.
vintages from over 100 Argentine bodegas We’ve listed prices below in US dollars (at
(wineries). the official rate) to offset Argentina’s high in-
flation rate. Many hotels quote their rates in
Noche de los Museos ART
US dollars and take US dollars as payment
(www.lanochedelosmuseos.gob.ar; h late Oct) anyway.
Highly popular, one-night event where, from
8pm to 3am, hundreds of BA’s museums,
cultural centers and galleries open to the 4 Microcentro
public for free exhibitions, concerts, perfor- As well as being very central, the Micro-
mances and other events. Major lines offer centro has the widest range and the largest
free bus transport as well. number of accommodations in the city. To-
ward the north you’ll be close to the popular
Creamfields MUSIC
pedestrian streets of Florida and Lavalle,
(www.creamfieldsba.com; h Nov) BA’s answer
as well as the neighborhoods of upmarket
to the UK’s outdoor, all-night, cutting-edge
Retiro and Recoleta. The Plaza de Mayo
electronic-music and dance party, with doz-
area contains the bustling banking district
ens of international DJs and bands.
and many historical buildings, and is within
Campeonato Abierto de Polo SPORTS walking distance of San Telmo. During the
(www.aapolo.com; h Dec) Watch the world’s day the whole area is very busy, but nights
best polo players and their gorgeous horses are much calmer as businesspeople flee the
thunder up and down Palermo’s polo fields. center after work. Don’t expect a huge range
of creative cuisine in this area – for that
4 Sleeping head to Palermo.
Over the last decade Buenos Aires has seen Gran Hotel Hispano HOTEL $
its accommodations options increase expo- (Map p58; %011-4345-2020; www.hhispano.
nentially. Boutique hotels and guesthouses, com.ar; Av de Mayo 861; s/d US$55/72; aiW)
especially, have mushroomed in neighbor- The tiny stairway lobby here isn’t an impres-
hoods such as San Telmo and Palermo, and sive start, but upstairs there’s a sweet atrium
hostels are a dime a dozen. You shouldn’t area with covered patio. Most rooms are
have trouble finding the type of place you’re modern and carpeted; those in front are big-
looking for, but it’s still a good idea to make gest, and those on the top floor are brightest.
a reservation beforehand – especially during There’s also a pleasant outside sun terrace.
holidays or the busy summer months of No- It’s a popular, central and well-tended place,
vember through January. so reserve ahead. Pay in cash for a 10%
discount.
77
SHORT- & LONG-TERM RENTALS

Many travelers visiting Buenos Aires love the city so much that they want to stay longer
and find an apartment. But snagging a pad isn’t as easy as it could be: renters often
need to commit to two years and nearly always need a local’s bond to guarantee month-
ly payments – almost impossible for most foreigners.
To cater to this demand, dozens of apartment websites have popped up in recent
years. These sites charge significantly more than locals would pay, but they don’t have
those pesky requirements either. You can view pictures of rental properties, along with
prices and amenities. Usually the photos match what you will get, but not always; if you’d
like someone to check out an apartment before you rent it, Madi Lang at BA Cultural
Concierge (p109) can make sure the place isn’t on a busy street, in an outlying neigh-
borhood or near a construction site.
¨¨www.4rentargentina.com
¨¨www.apartmentsche.com
¨¨www.buenosaireshabitat.com
¨¨www.oasiscollections.com/buenosaires
¨¨www.santelmoloft.com
¨¨www.stayinbuenosaires.com
If you’re just looking for a room, check www.spareroomsba.com. Or look for longer-term
guesthouses (where rooms usually share bathrooms) at www.casalosangelitos.com and
www.lacasademarina.com.ar. Chill House Hostel (p82) has a long-term residence as
well. And there’s always the BA branch of Craigslist.
Portal del Sur HOSTEL $ V & S Hostel Club HOSTEL $

(Map p58; % 011-4342-8788; www.portaldel (Map p58; % 011-4322-0994; www.hostelclub.
surba.com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 855; dm from com; Viamonte 887; dm from US$16, r from US$58;
US$16, s/d from US$40/50; a i W ; b Línea A a i W ; b Línea C Lavalle) S This attractive,
Piedras) Located in a charming old building, central and ecofriendly hostel is located in a
this is one of the city’s best hostels. Beau- pleasant older building. The common space,
tiful dorms and sumptuous, hotel-quality which is also the dining and lobby area, is
private rooms surround a central common good for socializing. The spacious dorms
area, which is rather dark but open. The are carpeted and the private rooms are ex-
highlight is the lovely rooftop deck with cellent; all have their own bathroom. A nice
views and attached bar and lounge. Free touch is the tiny outdoor patio in back.
tango and Spanish lessons, plus a walking
Goya Hotel HOTEL $$
tour; plenty of other activities available.
(Map p58; % 011-4322-9269; www.goyahotel.
Milhouse Youth Hostel HOSTEL $ com.ar; Suipacha 748; s US$60-70, d US$85-95;
(Map p58; % 011-4345-9604; www.milhouse a i W ) A good midrange choice with 42
hostel.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 959; dm from US$16, modern, comfortable and carpeted rooms.
s/d from US$55/60; aiW ; b Línea A Av de Located on a pedestrian street, so little traf-
Mayo) BA’s premiere party hostel, this pop- fic noise. ‘Classic’ rooms are older and have
ular Hostelling International spot offers a open showers; ‘superior’ rooms are slicker
plethora of activities and services. Dorms and come with bathtubs. Pleasant breakfast
are good and private rooms can be very room with patio; good breakfast too.
pleasant; most surround an appealing open
patio. Common spaces include a bar- cafe 4 Congreso
(with pool table) on the ground floor, a TV
lounge on the mezzanine and a rooftop Congreso contains many of the city’s older
terrace. A gorgeous annex building nearby theaters, cinemas and cultural centers. Live-
offers similar services. ly Av Corrientes has many modest shops,
services and bookstores. The Plaza del Con-
greso area is always moving, sometimes
78
with mostly peaceful public demonstrations. Livin’ Residence APARTMENT $$
Generally, this area is not quite as packed (Map p58; % 011-5258-0300; www.livin
as the Microcentro and has a less business residence.com; Viamonte 1815; studio US$90, 1-
and touristy flavor, but still bustles day and bedroom apt US$109, 2-bedroom apt US$175;

night. Cutting-edge restaurants are limited. a W ; b Línea D Callao) All of these studios
and one- or two-bedroom apartments have
Estoril Premium Hostel HOSTEL $
a simple, contemporary feel, with tasteful
(Map p58; % 011-4382-9073; www.hostelestoril.
furniture, flat-screen TVs, small kitchens

com.ar; Av de Mayo 1385, 1st & 6th fl; dm from and balconies. There’s a tiny rooftop terrace
US$19, s/d from US$45/60; aiW ) A great with Jacuzzi, asado and nearby gym room.
hostel located across two floors in an old Security is good; reserve ahead.
building. It’s stylish and clean, with pleas-
ant, good-sized dorms and hotel-quality
doubles. There’s a nice kitchen and internal 4 San Telmo
patio, and the awesome rooftop terrace has South of the Microcentro, San Telmo has
amazing views of Av de Mayo. The same some of the most traditional atmosphere in
family also run a cheaper hostel on the 3rd Buenos Aires. Buildings are more charming
floor. and historical than those in the center, and
tend to be only a few stories high. Many res-
Sabatico Hostel HOTEL $
taurants and fancy boutiques have opened
(Map p58; % 011-4381-1138; www.sabaticohostel.
here in recent years, and there are some
com.ar; México 1410; dm from US$15, r with shared/
good bars, tango venues and other night-
private bath from US$50/60; ai W ; b Línea E
spots for entertainment. Most accommoda-
Independencia) This buena onda (good vibes)
tion options here are hostels, humble hotels
hostel is located off the beaten tourist path
or upscale guesthouses rather than five-star
in an atmospheric neighborhood. Rooms are
hotels.
small but pleasant and the good common
areas include a nice kitchen, dining and liv- América del Sur HOSTEL $
ing room, airy patio hallways and a pleas- (Map p58; % 011-4300-5525; www.americahos
ant rooftop terrace with hammocks, asado tel.com.ar; Chacabuco 718; dm from US$18, d from
(barbecue grill) and soaking tub in summer. US$70; a i W ; b Línea C Independencia) This
There’s also a ping-pong table, foosball and gorgeous boutique-like hostel is the fan-
bike rentals, plus Saturday asados. ciest of its kind in BA, and built especially
to be a hostel. Beyond reception is a fine
Hotel Lyon APARTMENT $$
bar-bistro area with large, elegant wooden
(Map p58; % 011-4372-0100; www.hotel-lyon.
patio. Clean dorms with four beds all have
com.ar; Riobamba 251; d/tr/q US$85/105/120;
amazingly well-designed bathrooms, while
a iW ; b Línea B Callao) If you’re a traveling
private rooms are tastefully decorated and
family or group on a budget, consider this
better than those at many midrange hotels.
place. The two- and three- bedroom apart-
A multitude of services are on offer.
ments available are basic and no-frills but
very spacious, and all include large bath- Art Factory Hostel HOSTEL $
rooms and separate dining areas with fridg- (Map p58; % 011-4343-1463; www.artfactoryba.
es (but no kitchens). Reserve ahead; wi-fi in com.ar; Piedras 545; dm from US$17, d from US$47;
lobby only. a i W ) Friendly and uniquely art-themed,
this fine hostel offers more private rooms
Imagine Hotel HOTEL $$
than most – and all feature huge murals,
(Map p58; % 011-4383-2230; www.imagine
painted and decorated by different interna-
hotelboutique.com; México 1330; r US$120-155;
tional artists. Even the hallways and water
a iW ; b Línea E Independencia) This beau-
tanks have colorful cartoonish themes, and
tiful 1850s guesthouse offers nine simple,
the 1850s rambling mansion adds some ele-
colorful rooms, all decorated differently with
gant atmosphere. Large rooftop terrace with
rustic yet upscale furniture. The rooms sur-
hammocks and separate bar-lounge area
round three lovely outdoor patios accented
with pool table.
with original tiles and leafy plants – the last
one has a grassy garden. Breakfast includes Circus Hostel & Hotel HOSTEL $
fresh fruit, yogurt, and eggs to order. It’s a (Map p58; % 011-4300-4983; www.hostelcircus.
quiet little paradise in a nontouristy neigh- com; Chacabuco 1020; dm US$15, r from US$50;
borhood. Reserve ahead; dog on premises. a i W s ; b Línea C Independencia) From the
79
trendy lounge in front to the wooden deck– a tiny rooftop pool with wood deck. Buffet
surrounded wading pool in back, this hotel- breakfast is served in the healthy restaurant
hostel exudes hipness. Both dorms and downstairs.
private rooms, all small and simple, have
basic furniture and their own bathrooms.
There’s a pool table and slick TV area too,
4 Retiro
but no kitchen. Retiro is a great, central place to be, if you
can afford it – many of BA’s most expensive
Bohemia Buenos Aires HOTEL $ hotels, along with some of its richest inhab-
(Map p58; % 011-4115-2561; www.bohemiabuenos itants, are settled here. Close by are leafy
aires.com.ar; Perú 845; r from US$60; a i W ; Plaza San Martín, the Retiro bus terminal
b Línea C Independencia) With its slight and train station and many upscale stores
upscale-motel feel, this good-value San and business services. Recoleta and the
Telmo hotel offers 22 simple and neat rooms, Microcentro are just a short stroll away.
most good-sized, if a bit antiseptic with their
white-tiled floors. None of the rooms has a Hotel Tres Sargentos HOTEL $
bathtub, so instead of taking a soak enjoy (Map p70; % 011-4312-6082; www.hotel3

the peaceful grassy backyard and small in- sargentos.com.ar; Tres Sargentos 345; s/d/tr
terior patios. The breakfast buffet is a plus, US$50/65/80; a W ; b Línea C San Martín)
and there’s a restaurant. Cash discount. A good deal for the location, this simple
budget hotel has a decent lobby and is lo-
oMansión Vitraux BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ cated on a pedestrian street. The carpets
(Map p58; % 011-4878-4292; www.mansion in the halls need changing, but the ones
vitraux.com; Carlos Calvo 369; r from US$120; in the simple, comfortable rooms are clean
a iWs ; b Línea C Independencia) Almost too enough. Some rooms higher up and facing
slick for San Telmo, this glass-fronted bou- out even offer a bit of a view. Five-person
tique hotel offers 12 beautiful rooms, all in apartment available.
different designs. All have either flat-screen
or projection TV, and bathrooms boast very oCasa Calma BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
contemporary design. The breakfast buffet (Map p70; % 011-4312-5000; www.casacalma
is in the basement wine bar, and a tasting hotel.com.ar; Suipacha 1015; r from US$285;
might be included in your stay. There is also a i W ; b Línea C San Martín) S Those with
a large Jacuzzi, a dry sauna and a fancy roof- an ecoconscious mind now have their per-
top terrace with small lap pool. fect hideaway in BA: this central, envi-
ronmentally friendly and luxurious hotel.
Mundo Bolívar BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ Rooms are beautifully pristine and relaxing
(Map p65; % 011-4300-3619; www.mundoboli (some even have sauna or Jacuzzi), with
var.com; Bolívar 1701; studio & apt US$85-110; Zen-like baths and serene atmosphere. Yoga
a W ; g 29) Fourteen spacious studios and mats and bamboo bikes available; discount
loft apartments with kitchenettes have been without breakfast.
renovated into attractive modern spaces –
some with original details such as carved
doorways or painted ceilings – at this amaz- 4 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
ing mansion. Separate entrances join with Most of the accommodations in Recoleta are
hallways connecting through the complex, expensive, and what cheap hotels there are
and there are lovely garden patios in which tend to be full much of the time. Buildings
to relax. English, Danish, German and Por- here are grand and beautiful, befitting the
tuguese spoken. No breakfast; long-term city’s richest barrio, and you’ll be close to
stays available. Recoleta’s famous cemetery, along with its
lovely parks, museums and boutiques.
Patios de San Telmo BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p58; % 011-4307-0480; www.patiosdesan Yira Yira Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
telmo.com.ar; Chacabuco 752; r US$145-190; (Map p58; % 011-4812-4077; www.yirayiraba.
a iWs ) Located in an 1860 conventillo com; Uruguay 911, No 1B; s/d/tr US$40/55/85;
(tenement house) is this pleasant boutique a i W ; b Línea D Callao) This casual, inti-
hotel with 30 simple, elegant rooms sur- mate apartment-home is run by the helpful
rounding several patios. There’s a lovely Paz, who lives on-site. The floors are wooden
‘library’ room decorated with artwork, a and the ceilings high, and there are just four
back patio with hanging basket chairs and large rooms (all with shared bathrooms)
FOTOGRAFIABASICA/GETTY IMAGES ©
STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES ©

80
81
ANTON PETRUS/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. El Caminito (p65)
ANIBALTREJO/GETTY IMAGES ©
La Boca’s most famous street contains

buildings with colorful facades.
2. Puerto Madero (p60)

Buenos Aires’ newest official barrio is a
wonderful place for a stroll. The floating
naval museum, Fragata Sarmiento (p61)
is pictured in the foreground.
3. Parque 3 de Febrero (p71)

These green gardens are home to a zoo and
a planetarium.
4. Teatro Colón (p62)

Buenos Aires’ much-loved theater regularly
hosts performances by prominent figures.
82
facing the central living area with tiny patio. Alvear Palace Hotel HOTEL $$$
It’s a good place to meet other travelers and (Map p70; % 011-4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.
is centrally located near downtown. Reserve com; Av Alvear 1891; r from US$620; ai W s ;
ahead. g 130) The classiest, most traditional hotel
in BA. Old-world sophistication and excel-
Hotel Lion D’or HOTEL $
lent service will help erase the trials of your
(Map p70; % 011-4803-8992; www.hotel-liondor. long flight into town, while the bathtub
com.ar; Pacheco de Melo 2019; s/d/tr from
Jacuzzi, Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-

US$32/43/59; aW ; b Línea D Pueyrredón) cotton bed sheets aid your trip into dream-
These digs have their charm (it’s an old land. There’s also an excellent restaurant,
embassy), but rooms vary widely – some elegant tea room, champagne bar, fine spa,
are small, basic and dark, while others are indoor swimming pool and – if you’re in a
grand. Despite some rough edges, all are deluxe suite – butler service.
good value and most have been modernized
for comfort. The old marble staircase and
elevator are fabulous, and there’s a nice roof- 4 Palermo
top area. The cheapest rooms share bath- About a 10-minute taxi ride from the city
rooms; air-con costs extra. center (and also well connected by bus and
Subte lines), Palermo is the top choice for
Reina Madre Hostel HOSTEL $
many travelers. Not only is it full of exten-
(Map p84; % 011-4962-5553; www.rmhostel.com;
sive parklands – which are great for week-
Av Anchorena 1118; dm from US$16, s/d from
end jaunts and sporting activities – but
US$40/44; aiW ; b Línea D Pueyrredón) This
you’ll have heaps of cutting-edge restau-
wonderful hostel is clean, safe and well run.
rants, happening bars, designer boutiques
It’s in an old building that has plenty of per-
and hip dance clubs at your fingertips. Most
sonality, with high ceilings and original tiles,
of these places are located in the extensive
and all rooms are comfortable and modern
subneighborhood of Palermo Viejo, which
(and share bathrooms). There’s a cozy living
is further divided into Palermo Soho and
room with balcony and small kitchen plus
Palermo Hollywood.
lots of dining tables, but the highlight is the
wooden-deck rooftop with asado. Pet cat on Mansilla 3935 B&B B&B $
premises. (Map p84; % 011-4833-3821; www.mansilla3935.
com; Mansilla 3935; s/d US$40/60; ai W )
Art Suites APARTMENT $$
Family-run B&B in a homey, darkish house,
(Map p70; % 011-4821-6800; www.artsuites.
offering a great deal. Each of the six simple
com.ar; Azcuénaga 1465; 1- & 2-bedroom apt
but lovely rooms comes with its own bath-
US$140-295; aW ; b Línea D Pueyrredón) The 15
room. Ceilings are high, and a few tiny
luxurious, modern and spacious apartments
patios add charm.
here are all bright and boast minimalist
decor, full kitchens or kitchenettes, sunny Chill House Hostel HOSTEL $
balconies and slick, hip furniture. Windows (Map p84; % 011-4861-6175; www.chillhouse.
are double-paned for quiet, staff speak Eng- com.ar; Agüero 781; dm US$17, d US$49-67; i W ;
lish and security is excellent. Long-term b Línea B Carlos Gardel) One of the coolest-vibe
discounts are available; reserve ahead. An hostels in BA is at this remodeled old house
annex offers more apartments. boasting high ceilings and a rustic artsy
style. There are two dorms and eight private
oPoetry Building APARTMENT $$$
rooms with bathroom (No 6 is especially
(Map p70; % 011-4827-2772; www.poetrybuild nice). There’s also an awesome rooftop ter-
ing.com; Junín 1280; apt US$215-285; a W s ; race where weekly asados take place, occa-
b Línea D Pueyrredón) These gorgeous stu- sional live music and free bike rentals.
dios and one- or two-bedroom apartments
are perfect for families or small groups. Eco Pampa Hostel HOSTEL $
Each one is different, eclectically decorat- (Map p84; % 011-4831-2435; www.hostelpampa.
ed with reproduction antique furniture, com.ar; Guatemala 4778; dm US$20, s/d US$70/85;
and all come with fully stocked kitchens. i W ; b Línea D Plaza Italia) S Buenos Aires’
Some boast an outdoor balcony or patio, but first ‘green’ hostel is this casual spot sport-
there’s also a beautiful common terrace with ing vintage furniture, low-energy light bulbs
soaking pool. Amenities include flat-screen and a recycling system. The rooftop is home
TVs, plus iPod and cell-phone rentals. to a small veggie garden, compost pile and
83
solar panels. Dorms are a good size and each Le Petit Palais B&B $$
of the eight private rooms comes with bath- (Map p84; % 011-4962-4834; www.lepetitpalais
room and flat-screen TV (most have air-con). -buenosaires.com; Gorriti 3574; s/d from US$70/80;
There’s another branch in Belgrano. a W ) Small but charming, this French-run
B&B offers just five simple but pleasant
Art Factory Palermo HOSTEL $
rooms, all with private bathroom. The high-
(Map p84; % 2004-4958; www.artfactorypalermo. light is the pretty little terrace on the 2nd
com.ar; Costa Rica 4353; dm from USD$15, r with
floor, where possibly BA’s best breakfast can
shared/private bath from US$50/60; a i W ) be served in warm weather – fresh yogurt,
Decent and no-frills, this hostel sits just out- jams and breads, all homemade, along with
side Palermo’s border but is an easy walk- eggs, medialunas and cereals. Friendly cats
ing distance to many of its restaurants and on premises.
nightlife. Like its sister hostel in San Telmo,
it’s located in an old house and decorated Infinito Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
with artsy murals and stencils. There’s a (Map p84; % 011-2070-2626; www.infinitohotel.
small kitchen and living room area, and a com; Arenales 3689; r from US$105; ai W ;
limited number of bathrooms – so their use b Línea D Scalabrini Ortíz) Starting at its small
can get tight. A rooftop terrace is coming. lobby cafe-reception, this hotel exudes a
certain trendiness. Rooms are small but
oThe 5th Floor B&B $$ good, boasting flat-screen TVs, fridges and
(Map p84; % 011-4827-0366; www.the5thfloorba. a purple color scheme, and there’s a sauna
com; near Vidt & Santa Fe; r US$90-170; a i ; and Jacuzzi. It tries to be ecologically con-
b Línea D Scalabrini Ortíz) This upscale B&B of- scious, mostly by recycling. Located near
fers seven elegant rooms, three with private some parks but still within walking dis-
balcony. All are tastefully decorated with tance of Palermo’s nightlife. Buffet breakfast
art-deco furniture and modern amenities. included.
The common living room is great for chat-
ting with the English owner, a polo enthu- Rugantino Hotel HOTEL $$
siast, and there’s also a pleasant back patio (Map p84; % 011-6379-5113; www.rugantinohotel
with lovely tile details. Excellent breakfast. boutique.com; Uriarte 1844; r US$75-85; a i W ;
Address given upon reservation; three-night b Línea D Palermo) This small and intimate
minimum stay. hotel is located in a 1920s building and run
by an Italian family. Various tiny terraces
oCabrera Garden B&B $$ and catwalks connect the seven simple but
(Map p84; % 011-4777-7668; www.cabreragarden. beautiful rooms, all decked out in hard-
com; José Antonio Cabrera 5855; r US$145-250; wood floors and modern styling – combined
a i W s ; g 140) One of BA’s loveliest stays with a few antiques. The climbing vine–
is this gay-friendly three-room B&B. The greenery in the small central courtyard well
remodelled 1920s building boasts a beau- is soothing, and you can expect espresso for
tiful grassy garden with small patio and breakfast.
pool, and there’s a wonderful living room
in which to hang out. Rooms are very com- Palermo Viejo B&B GUESTHOUSE $$
fortable and all different, with modern (Map p84; % 011-4773-6012; www.palermo
conveniences like flat-screen TV and iPod viejobb.com; Niceto Vega 4629; s/d US$70/80;
docks. English, German and Polish spoken; a i W ; g 140) This small and intimate B&B
reserve ahead. is located in a remodeled casa chorizo – a
long, narrow house. The six rooms all front
Hotel Clasico HOTEL $$ a leafy outdoor patio hallway and are sim-
(Map p84; % 011-4773-2353; www.hotelclasico. ple but quite comfortable; two have lofts.
com; Costa Rica 5480; r US$120-170; a W ) All come with fridge and a good breakfast.
Attractive hotel with 33 tastefully ‘classic’ RSVP or call them ahead of time – they often
rooms, some with tiny balconies but all leave on errands in the afternoon.
with wood floors, modern conveniences and
earthy color schemes. Go for the penthouse oMiravida Soho GUESTHOUSE $$$
with terrace for something special. Creative (Map p84; % 011-4774-6433; www.miravidasoho.
elevator with one glass wall facing an artsy com; Darregueyra 2050; r US$275-370; ai W ;
mural. Great breakfast served in the down- b Línea D Plaza Italia) Run by friendly owners,
stairs, rustic-hip restaurant. this gorgeous guesthouse comes with six
beautiful and elegant rooms. All are very
84
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86
Palermo
æ Top Sights 18 Cabrera Garden.......................................B3
1 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano 19 Chill House Hostel...................................G6
de Buenos Aires................................... G2 20 Eco Pampa Hostel...................................B6
21 Hotel Clasico ............................................C3
æ Sights 22 Infinito Hotel............................................. F4
2 Casa Brandon.......................................... C7 23 Le Petit Palais .......................................... F6
B u e n os Ai re s E ating
3 Centro Islámico Rey Fahd ..................... D2 24 Mansilla 3935 B&B.................................. E4

4 Jardín Japonés........................................ G2 25 Mine Hotel ................................................A7
5 Jardín Zoológico ......................................E3 26 Miravida Soho..........................................D3
6 Mercado de Abasto ................................ G7 27 Palermo Viejo B&B..................................D5
7 Museo Argentino de Ciencias 28 Reina Madre Hostel.................................G6
Naturales .............................................. C7 29 Rugantino Hotel.......................................A6
8 Museo Casa Carlos Gardel.................... G7 30 The 5th Floor............................................ F4
9 Museo Evita ..............................................F3 31 Vain Boutique Hotel................................D3
10 Museo Nacional de Arte
Decorativo ............................................ H3 ú Eating
11 Museo Xul Solar...................................... G5 32 Almacén Oui Oui......................................C2
12 Parque 3 de Febrero................................ F1 33 Artemesia .................................................B3
13 Plaza Serrano...........................................A7 34 Bio..............................................................D3
35 Buenos Aires Verde ................................C4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 36 Burger Joint .............................................A6
14 Bar du Marché......................................... C3 37 Casa Coupage..........................................C3
15 Pain et Vin................................................ C4 38 Don Julio...................................................E4
16 Vamos .......................................................F5 39 El Preferido de Palermo..........................B6
40 El Tejano ................................................... E5
ÿ Sleeping 41 Fukuro Noodle Bar..................................C3
17 Art Factory Palermo................................E5 42 Gran Dabbang..........................................D5
comfortable and one has a private terrace. 5 Eating

There’s a wine cellar, bar-lounge area for Eating out in Buenos Aires is a gastronom-
evening wine tastings, a small and relaxing ical highlight. Not only are the typical par
patio, and even an elevator. It serves good, rillas (steak restaurants) a dime a dozen,
full breakfasts; reserve ahead. but the city’s Palermo Viejo neighborhood
Mine Hotel HOTEL $$$ boasts the most varied ethnic cuisine in the
(Map p84; % 011-4832-1100; www.minehotel. country. You can find Armenian, Brazilian,
com; Gorriti 4770; d US$320-430; aiWs ; g 55) Mexican, Indian, Japanese, Southeast Asian
S This hip boutique hotel offers 20 good- and Middle Eastern cuisines – and even
sized rooms; some come with Jacuzzi and fusions of several. Most are acceptable and
balcony and all have a desk and natural decor some are exceptional.
touches. Get one overlooking the highlight Microcentro eateries tend to cater to the
of the hotel: the peaceful backyard, which business crowd, while nearby Puerto Ma
boasts a small wading pool. There’s a small dero is full of elegant and pricey restaurants.
bistro for the buffet breakfast, and Mine even Congreso is pretty traditional cuisine-wise,
attempts to be somewhat eco friendly (re including its ‘Little Spain’ neighborhood.
using towels, low-energy bulbs, recycling). Recoleta is another expensive neighborhood
with touristy but fun dining options near
Vain Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ the cemetery. San Telmo keeps attracting
(Map p84; % 011-4776-8246; www.vainuniverse. more and more worthwhile restaurants.
com; Thames 2226; r US$210-365; a i W ; Reservations are usually unnecessary
b Línea D Plaza Italia) Fifteen elegant rooms, except at the most popular restaurants or
most with high ceilings and wooden floors, perhaps on weekends. Except at five-star
live at this nicely renovated building. All are restaurants, wait staff provide simply ad-
modern in that white, minimalist way, and equate service – nothing fancy. Be warned
boast sofas and small desks. The highlight, that upscale restaurants charge a cubierto, a
however, is the wonderfully airy, multilevel small cover charge for utensil use and bread.
living room with attached wooden-decked This doesn’t include the tip, which should be
terrace and Jacuzzi. at least 10% (15% at fancier places).
87
43 La Cabrera ............................................... C4 67 Sitges ........................................................D6

44 La Carnicería ............................................E3 68 Sugar.........................................................B6
45 Las Pizarras..............................................E3 69 The Harrison
46 NoLa ..........................................................E5 Speakeasy.............................................B7
47 Oui Oui...................................................... C2 70 Verne......................................................... E5
48 Sarkis........................................................ C5 71 Victoria Brown .........................................A6
49 Siamo nel Forno...................................... C3
50 Sudestada................................................ C3 ý Entertainment
72 Bach Bar ...................................................D5
û Drinking & Nightlife 73 Esquina Carlos Gardel ............................G7
51 878............................................................ B5 74 La Bomba de Tiempo..............................G7
52 Amerika.....................................................E6 75 La Catedral............................................... E7
53 Antares......................................................C1 76 La Viruta ...................................................D5
54 Antares......................................................A7 77 Los Cardones...........................................B5
55 Crobar ....................................................... E1 78 Salon Canning..........................................D5
56 El Carnal................................................... C4 79 Thelonious Bar......................................... F4
57 Frank's Bar............................................... B3
58 Glam ......................................................... G6 þ Shopping
59 Home Hotel.............................................. B3 80 Bolivia........................................................A7
60 Kika ........................................................... C4 81 Bolivia........................................................A6
61 LAB Training Center & Coffee 82 Calma Chicha...........................................A7
Shop ...................................................... C4 Feria Plaza Serrano........................(see 13)
62 Lattente Espresso & Brew Bar.............. A6 83 Hermanos
63 Magdalena's Party.................................. A6 Estebecorena........................................B3
64 Mundo Bizarro......................................... C5 84 Lo de Joaquín Alberdi .............................A6
65 Niceto Club .............................................. C4 85 Patio del Liceo..........................................G5
66 On Tap ...................................................... C3 86 Rapsodia...................................................A7
Many restaurants (especially outside the cheese, or grilled zucchini and eggplant.
Microcentro) are closed on Monday and There’s only one communal table, as they
have limited hours on Sunday. cater to mostly to-go business clientele.
A good website for BA restaurants is
www.guiaoleo.com (in Spanish); for good Vita HEALTH FOOD $
blogs in English there are www.saltshaker. (Map p58; % 011-4342-0788; www.vitamarket.

net and www.pickupthefork.com. com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 583; mains AR$60-65;
h 8am-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu & Fri, 10:30am-
1am Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; v ) Here’s a hippie-ish,
5 Microcentro casual and health-oriented eatery offering
180 Burger Bar BURGERS $ tasty vegetarian dishes like organic seitan
(Map p58; % 011-4328-7189; Suipacha 749; bur pizzas, lentil burgers and vegetable calzones.
gers AR$60-75; h noon-4pm Mon-Fri) Hankering Various freshly mixed juices and licuados
for a hamburger? Then join the hip, young (fruit shakes) are available (with the option
crowd that will likely be lined up at this of adding a wheatgrass shot) and there are
small diner, and order up. Choose a ‘salsa’ plenty of gourmet salads. Organic coffee is
(mayochimi, tzatziki, barbacoa) and add also served. Another branch is in Palermo.
the cheese option if you wish. Chow down
Aldo’s Vinoteca ARGENTINE $$
within the confines of concrete walls, clunky
(Map p58; % 011-4334-2380; www.aldosvino
furniture and blasting music.
teca.com; Moreno 372; mains AR$120-180;
Latino Sandwich SANDWICHES $ h noon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) This
(Map p58; % 4331-0859; www.latinosandwich. restaurant and wine shop is an upscale
com; Tacuari 185; sandwiches AR$40-56; h 8am- eatery serving a small but tasty menu of
5pm Mon-Fri) Some of the best eateries in meat, seafood and pasta dishes, all amid
BA are holes-in-the-wall – and here’s a case walls lined with wine. What makes this
in point. This is the downtown place to place unique, however, is that the wine is
grab sandwiches like an Argentine mila sold at retail prices – thus making it easier
nesa (breaded steaks; but with arugula to sample (and buy) the nearly 600 labels
and guacamole!), BBQ pork with cheddar available.
88
sophisticated parrilla. Go for the rack of
5 Puerto Madero lamb, sucking pig or Kobe beef, though the
i Central Market MODERN ARGENTINE $$ dry-aged ‘steak flight’ (AR$480) is unique-
(Map p58; % 011-5775-0330; Av Macacha Güemes ly spectacular. There are a few seafood and
302; mains AR$140-250; h 8am-1am) Especially pasta dishes for noncarnivores. Try to re-
pleasant on sunny days is this modern res- serve a table in the atrium, with full view of
taurant on the waterfront – the tables on the Puente de la Mujer.
promenade are great for people- watching.

Order espresso and scones for breakfast, and 5 Congreso
panini (Italian-style sandwiches) or contem-
porary Argentine dishes for lunch. There’s oChan Chan PERUVIAN $
also more casual seating at the gourmet deli, (Map p58; % 011-4382-8492; Hipólito Yrigoyen
plus a kitchenwares shop to poke around. 1390; mains AR$60-90; h noon-4pm & 8pm-
12.30am Tue-Sat, to 11.30pm Sun) Thanks to
oChila MODERN ARGENTINE $$$ fair prices and relatively quick service, this
(Map p58; % 011-4343-6067; www.chilaweb. colorful Peruvian eatery is jam-packed at
com.ar; Alicia Moreau de Justo 876; 3-course menu lunchtime with office workers devouring
AR$980, 7-course menu AR$1400, drinks not includ- plates of ceviche (seafood cured in citrus)
ed; h 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Some of Buenos and ajiaco de conejo (rabbit and potato
Aires’ best and most original cuisine is created stew). There are also plenty of arroz chau
by award-winning chef Soledad Nardelli. Her fa (Peruvian-style fried rice) dishes, easily
three- and seven-course, haute cuisine dishes downed with a tangy pisco sour or a pitcher
utilize only the best seasonal ingredients, and of chicha morada (a sweet fruity drink).
the restaurant also works closely with quality
producers. Expect beautifully presented food, Pizzería Güerrín PIZZA $
a professional staff and – if you’re lucky – a (Map p58; % 011-4371-8141; Av Corrientes 1368;
table with a romantic view of the docks. pizza slice AR$16; h 11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri &
Sat) A quick pit-stop on Av Corrientes is this
Le Grill PARRILLA $$$ cheap but classic old pizza joint. Just pay, then
(Map p58; % 011-4331-0454; www.legrill.com.ar; point at a prebaked slice behind the glass
Alicia Moreau de Justo 876; mains AR$230-460; counter and eat standing up with the rest of
h 12:30-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm- the crowd. Or sit down and order one freshly
midnight Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun) No surprise – baked – this way you can also choose from a
grilled meat is the specialty at this highly greater variety of toppings for your pizza.
VEGETARIAN IN BUENOS AIRES

Argentine cuisine is internationally famous for its succulent grilled meats, but this
doesn’t mean vegetarians – or even vegans – are completely out of luck.
Most restaurants, including parrillas, serve a few items acceptable to most vegetar-
ians, such as green salads, omelets, pizza and pasta. Key words to beware of include
carne (beef), pollo (chicken), cerdo (pork) and cordero (lamb). Sin carne means ‘with-
out meat’ and the phrase ‘Soy vegetariano/a’ (I’m a vegetarian) can come in handy.
Close to the Microcentro there’s the popular cafeteria Granix (Map p58; % 011-
4343-7546; Florida 165, 1st fl; per kilo AR$165; h 11am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; v ), located upstairs
in a shopping mall, and hippie-ish but cool Vita (p87). Broccolino (Map p58;
% 011-4322-7754; www.broccolino.com; Esmeralda 776; mains AR$80-200; h noon-11:30pm;
v ) specializes in pasta – it’s not meat-free, but there are many vegetarian choices.
In San Telmo, try trendy Hierbabuena (Map p65; % 011-4362-2542; Av Caseros 454;
h 9am-midnight Tue-Sun, to 5pm Mon; v ).
The Palermo Viejo area has many more options, including:
Bio (p92)
Artemesia (Map p84; % 4776-5484; Gorriti 5996; h 12:30-3pm & 9-11:30pm Tue-Sat,
10am-5pm Sun; v )
Buenos Aires Verde (Map p84; % 011-4775-9594; Gorriti 5657; h 9am-12:30am Mon-Sat)
El Rincón Orgánico (% 2062-9515; Bulnes 910; h 11am-8pm Mon-Sat), over in Almagro,
focuses on organic dishes, which are mostly but not completely vegetarian.
89
Parrilla Peña PARRILLA $$
(Map p58; % 011-4371-5643; Rodríguez Peña SUPPER CLUBS
682; mains AR$80-160; h noon-4pm & 8pm-
Puertas cerradas (closed-door restau-
midnight Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) This simple,
rants), a phenomenon during the last
traditional and long-running parrilla is well
decade, continue to be popular. These
known for its excellent-quality meats and
prix-fixe restaurants often have limited
generous portions. The service is fast and
opening hours and days, and some
efficient and it’s great value. Don’t expect
won’t tell you the address until you
many tourists – this is a local’s sort of place.
make reservations (usually mandatory).
Also on offer are homemade pastas, salads
But if you want that feeling of being
and milanesas (breaded steaks), along with
somewhere ‘secret’ – and eating very
several tasty desserts and a good wine list.
good, gourmet food – these places are
oAramburu GOURMET $$$ highly appealing.
(Map p58; % 011-4305-0439; www.aramburu
resto.com.ar; Salta 1050; prix fixe AR$1100, with
wine pairing AR$1700; h 8:30-11pm Tue-Sat) Chef of tasty grilled meats at decent prices. There
Gonzalo Aramburu’s 19-course ‘molecular’ are also pastas for that unfortunate vegetar-
meal is astounding; each artistically created ian that might get dragged along.
plate is just a few bites of gastronomic de-
Chochán ARGENTINE $$
light. Expect enlightening tastes, textures
(Map p58; % 011-4307-3661; Piedras 672; mains
and smells, plus unique presentations –
AR$125-175; h 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-4pm
all will translate into a highly memorable
& 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun) This eatery is for
dining experience. Located in the edgy but
upcoming neighborhood of Montserrat. Its pork-lovers only – ribs, braised shoulder,
sister restaurant, Aramburu Bis, is nearby. elbows and raviolis – everything is made
from pork, or chanchos (Chochán being
a play on words). Grab a sandwich – pork
5 San Telmo belly, pulled pork, pork tongue. Or white
Bar El Federal ARGENTINE $ corn and smoked pork soup. Or a small plate
(Map p58; % 011-4361-7328; Carlos Calvo 599; like pork blood sausage. No guilt – pigging
mains AR$65-160; h 8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri out here is totally allowed.
& Sat; W ) Dating from 1864, this historic bar
El Desnivel PARRILLA $$
has a classic, somewhat rustic atmosphere
(Map p58; % 011-4300-9081; Defensa 855;
accented with original wood, tiles, and an
mains AR$100-180; h noon-midnight Tue-Sun,
eye-catching antique bar. The specialties
7pm-midnight Mon) This famous and long-
here are sandwiches (especially turkey) and
running parrilla joint packs in both locals
picadas (shared appetizer plates), but there
and tourists, serving them treats like chorizo
are also lots of pastas, salads, desserts and
sandwiches and bife de lomo (tenderloin
tall mugs of icy beer.
steak). The sizzling grill out front is tortur-
El Banco Rojo INTERNATIONAL $ ous while you wait for a table (which could
(Map p58; % 011-4362-3177; Bolivar 914; mains be in the large back room) – get here early,
AR$50-60; h noon-12:30am Tue-Sat, to 11:30pm especially on weekends.
Sun) A San Telmo youth magnet, this small
and trendy joint serves up sandwiches oCafé San Juan INTERNATIONAL $$$
(Map p58; % 011-4300-1112; Av San Juan 452;
(Tandoori pork, lamb kofta), falafels, burg-
mains AR$300-350; h 12:30-4pm & 8pm-1am)
ers, tacos and salads. Try the empanada de
cordero (lamb turnover) if they have it. Very Having studied in Milan, Paris and Barce-
casual, with blasting rock music and counter lona, celebrity TV-chef Leandro Cristóbal
seating only. now runs the kitchen at this renowned San
Telmo bistro. Start with fabulous tapas,
Gran Parrilla del Plata PARRILLA $$ then delve into the grilled Spanish octopus,
(Map p58; % 011-4300-8858; www.parrilladel molleja (sweetbreads) cannelloni and the
plata.com; Chile 594; mains AR$90-200; h noon- amazing pork bondiola (deliciously tender
4pm & 8pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun) There’s after nine hours’ roasting). Most of the sea-
nothing too fancy at this traditional corner food is flown in daily from Patagonia. Re-
parrilla (one of the best in San Telmo) – just serve for lunch and dinner.
old-time atmosphere and generous portions
90
If you can’t get a table here, try the meats – for something really special. Expect
Café San Juan La Cantina (Map p58; the cocktails, desserts and service to be five-
% 011-4300-9344; Chile 474; mains AR$200-250; star as well.
h 12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to
1am Fri & Sat), located a few blocks away and
with a different menu.
5 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
Cumaná ARGENTINE $
(Map p70; % 011-4813-9207; Rodriguez Peña
5 La Boca 1149; mains AR$75-125; h noon-4pm & 8pm-1am)

Proa Cafe CAFE $ To sample Argentina’s regional cuisine,
(Map p65; % 011-4104-1003; www.proa.org/ check out this colorful, budget-friendly
eng/cafe.php; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929; eatery with huge picture windows and an
mains AR$60-100; h 11am-7pm Tue-Sun) Chef old-fashioned adobe oven. Cumaná special-
Lucas Angelillo presides over this airy eat- izes in delicious cazuela, stick-to-your-ribs
ery, located on the top floor of Fundación stews filled with squash, corn, eggplant,
Proa (free access). Stop in briefly for a fresh potatoes and meat. Also popular are the
juice and gourmet sandwich, or stay longer empanadas, locro and humita (corn, cheese
and order a meat, seafood or pasta dish. and onion tamales). Come early to avoid
Don’t miss the rooftop terrace on a warm, a wait.
sunny day – you’ll get good views of the Ria-
chuelo, hopefully without its corresponding Como en Casa ARGENTINE $
scents. (Map p70; % 011-4816-5507; www.tortascomoen

casa.com; Riobamba 1239; mains AR$80-130;
h 8am-midnight Tue-Sat, to 8:30pm Sun & Mon)
5 Retiro This gorgeous, upscale cafe-restaurant has a
Filo ITALIAN $$ very elegant atmosphere and attracts Reco-
(Map p70; % 011-4311-0312; www.filo-ristorante. leta’s wealthiest. Its best feature is the shady
com; San Martín 975; mains AR$120-190; h noon- patio, complete with large fountain and
1am) Popular with the business lunch crowd, surrounded by grand buildings, a must on
this large, pop art–style Italian pizzeria a warm day. For lunch there are fancy sand-
tosses 30 kinds of thin-crust pies with fresh wiches, salads, vegetable tarts and gourmet
toppings – try a pie piled high with prosciut- pizzas, while dinner options include goulash
to and arugula. Other tasty choices include and homemade pastas. Plenty of luscious
panini, gourmet salads, dozens of pastas desserts, plus breakfast too.
and a whirlwind of drinks and desserts. The
El Sanjuanino ARGENTINE $
menu is extensive – there’s something to
(Map p70; % 011-4805-2683; Posadas 1515;
please just about everyone here.
empanadas AR$19, mains AR$80-150; h noon-
Dadá INTERNATIONAL $$ 4pm & 7pm-1am) This long-running, cozy
(Map p70; % 011-4314-4787; San Martín 941; little joint probably has the cheapest food
mains AR$130-200; h noon-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am in Recoleta, attracting both penny-pinching
Fri & Sat) The tiny bohemian Dadá, with walls locals and thrifty tourists. Sit either upstairs
painted red and a bar cluttered with wine or downstairs (in the basement) and order
bottles, feels like an unassuming neighbor- spicy empanadas, tamales or locro (corn
hood bar in Paris. Order something savory and meat stew). The curved brick ceiling
off the bistro menu during the day, like a stir- adds to the atmosphere, but many take
fry; at night you can dine on grilled salmon their food to go – Recoleta’s lovely parks are
and down an expertly mixed cocktail. just a couple of blocks away.
oElena MODERN ARGENTINE $$$ Rodi Bar ARGENTINE $$
(Map p70; % 011-4321-1728; www.elenapony (Map p70; % 011-4801-5230; Vicente López

line.com; Four Seasons, Posadas 1086; mains 1900; mains AR$100-200; h 7am-1am Mon-Sat) A
AR$350-400; h 7-11am, 12:30-3:30pm & 7:30pm- great option for well-priced, unpretentious
food in upscale Recoleta. This traditional
12:30am) If you’re looking for a splurge night
out, Elena should be your destination. Lo- corner restaurant with fine old-world at-
cated at the Four Seasons Hotel, this highly mosphere and extensive menu offers some-
rated restaurant uses the best quality- thing for everyone, from inexpensive combo
sourced ingredients to create exquisite plates to relatively unusual dishes such as
dishes. Order its specialty – the dry-aged marinated beef tongue.
91
oCasa Saltshaker MEDITERRANEAN, ANDEAN $$$
(www.casasaltshaker.com; set menu incl wine pair- A DIFFERENT STEAK
ings US$70; h 8:45pm Wed-Sat) Ex–New Yorker EXPERIENCE
Dan Perlman is the chef behind this respect- Going to a parrilla is great, but there
ed place, which is a puerta cerrada (closed- are other options for amazing steak
door restaurant) in his own home. You’ll experiences
have to book ahead, arrive at an appointed
Argentine Experience (www.the
hour and sit at a communal table, which can
be a lot more fun than it sounds – especially argentineexperience.com) Learn the story
for solo diners. Expect a five-course set menu of Argentina’s beef and how to make
focusing on creative Mediterranean- or empanadas and alfajores (cookie sand-
Andean-inspired dishes. Address and tele- wiches). Plus you’ll eat a supremely
phone given upon reservation. tender steak.
Steaks by Luis (www.steakbuenosaires.
net) An upscale asado (barbecue grill)
5 Palermo experience where you’ll nibble on
oSarkis MIDDLE EASTERN $ cheese and sip boutique wine while
(Map p84; % 011-4772-4911; Thames 1101; watching large hunks of meat being
mains AR$65-160; h noon-3pm & 8pm-1am) The grilled.
food is fabulous and well priced at this
Parrilla Tour (www.parrillatour.com)
long-standing Middle Eastern restaurant –
Meet your knowledgeable guide at a
come with a group to sample many exotic
restaurant for a choripán (traditional
dishes. Start with the roasted eggplant hum-
sausage sandwich), followed by an em-
mus, boquerones (marinated sardines),
panada. You’ll finish at a local parrilla.
keppe crudo (raw meat) or parras rellenas
(stuffed grape leaves), then follow up with
kebabs or lamb in yogurt sauce. Less busy
at lunchtime; expect a long wait for dinner. Sun) The brainchild of American Lisa
Puglia is this small, popular restaurant
Oui Oui INTERNATIONAL $ focusing on New Orleans Cajun cuisine.
(Map p84; % 011-4778-9614; www.ouioui.com. Everything is homemade, from the fried
ar; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$70-90; h 8am-8pm chicken sandwich (the hottest seller) to the
Mon-Sat; W ) Pain au chocolat and shab- chorizo gumbo to the spicy, vegetarian red
by chic? Oui. This charming and popular beans and rice. The jalapeño cornbread and
French-style cafe produces the goods – dark bourbon-coffee pecan pie are the bomb, as
coffee, buttery croissants and jars of tangy is the microbrewed beer.
lemonade – and boasts a small and cozy
interior. Choose also from creative salads, El Preferido de Palermo ARGENTINE $
gourmet sandwiches and luscious pastries. (Map p84; % 011-4774-6585; Jorge Louis Borges
Its annex, Almacén Oui Oui (Map p84; cnr 2108; mains AR$100-120; h 9am-11:30pm Mon-
Dorrego & Nicaragua; h 8am-9pm Tue-Sun), is on Sat) You can’t get much more traditional
the same block. than this atmospheric, family-run joint.
Order tapas, meat platters, homemade
Fukuro Noodle Bar JAPANESE $ pastas and seafood soups, or try one of its
(Map p84; % 15-3290-0912; www.fukuronoodle specialties – the tortillas, the milanesas and
bar.com; Costa Rica 5514; noodle soup AR$110; the Cuban rice with veal and polenta. Hang-
h 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) For ing hams, jars of olives and high tables with
a welcome change from all that meat con- blocky wood stools add to the charm.
sumption, check into this comfort-food eat-
ery. Four kinds of ramen are on offer, along Burger Joint AMERICAN $
with a good selection of bao (steamed buns) (Map p84; % 011-4833-5151; Jorge Louis Borges
and gyoza (potstickers). Gluten-free noodles 1766; burgers AR$60; h noon-midnight) For
available, plus sake and microbrew draft some of the juiciest burgers in BA, head
beer. Popular, with counter seating only. to this popular, graffiti-covered spot. NYC-
trained chef Pierre Chacra offers just four
NoLa CAJUN $ kinds to choose from, but they’re all stellar.
(Map p84; % 15-6350-1704; www.nolabuenos Try the Mexican (jalapeños, guacamole and
aires.com; Gorriti 4389; mains AR$90-100; hot sauce) or Jamaican (pineapple, cheddar
h 5pm- midnight Mon-Fri, 1pm-midnight Sat & and bacon) with a side of hand-cut fries.
92
Bio VEGETARIAN $$
MUST-TRY FOODS (Map p84; % 011-4774-3880; www.biorestaurant.
com.ar; Humboldt 2192; mains AR$120-150;
¨¨Bife de chorizo – sirloin steak h 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; v )
¨Ëmpanadas – baked, savory turnovers S Tired of meat? Then make a beeline for
¨¨Helado – arguably the best ice cream
this casual family-run restaurant, which
in the world
specializes in healthy, organic and vegetar-
ian fare. Try the quinoa risotto, curry seitan,

Mediterranean couscous or mushrooms a
la Bahiana (Brazilian-style). Don’t miss the
oDon Julio PARRILLA $$ refreshing ginger lemonade. Also caters to
(Map p84; % 011-4832-6058; Guatemala 4699; celiacs, vegans and raw foodists. Cooking
mains AR$115-230; h noon-4pm & 7:30pm-1am) class available.
Classy service and a great wine list add an
upscale bent to this traditional, and very El Tejano BARBECUE $$
popular, corner steakhouse. The bife de (Map p84; www.facebook.com/ElTejanoBA; Hon-
chorizo (sirloin steak) is the main attraction duras 4416; mains AR$105-145; h 12:30-4:30pm &
here, but the baked goat cheese provolone, 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat) Missing Texas barbecue
bondiola de cerdo (pork shoulder) and from back home? Here’s the place to scratch
gourmet salads are a treat as well, and por- that itch. Authentic Texan Larry Rogers
tions are large. Come early to avoid a wait. grills up the city’s best beef and pork ribs,
along with smoked brisket, pulled pork and
Las Pizarras INTERNATIONAL $$ chicken wings. The offerings may change by
(Map p84; % 011-4775-0625; www.laspizarras the day but you can always expect amazingly
bistro.com; Thames 2296; mains AR$140-215; tender and delicious meats; the empanadas
h 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun) At this simple and and fries are also amazing.
unpretentious yet excellent restaurant,
Chef Rodrigo Castilla cooks up a changing oi Latina SOUTH AMERICAN $$$
rainbow of eclectic dishes such as grilled (% 011-4857-9095; www.ilatinabuenosaires.com;
venison or rabbit stuffed with cherries and Murillo 725; set menu AR$900, with wine pairing
pistachios. Those with meeker stomachs can AR$1380; h set time 7pm or 9pm Tue-Sat) Locat-
choose the asparagus and mushroom risotto ed south of Palermo in Villa Crespo is one of
or any of the homemade pastas. The chalk- BA’s best restaurants: i Latina. The set menu
board menu on the wall adds to the casual consists of seven courses, all exquisitely pre-
atmosphere. pared and presented. Flavors are incredibly
stimulating and complex; this isn’t a place to
Gran Dabbang INTERNATIONAL, FUSION $$
simply fill your tummy, but rather to savor
(Map p84; % 011-4832-1186; Scalabrini Ortiz a gustatory experience that will dazzle your
1543; small plates AR$80-95; h 8pm-midnight taste buds. Reservation required.
Mon-Sat) Unique and creative would be the
minimal words to describe the stunning cui- Astor MODERN ARGENTINE $$$
sine at this unassuming restaurant on a busy (Map p84; % 011-4554-0802; www.facebook.
avenue. About eight small plates are offered, com/Astorbistro; Humberto Primo 777, San Telmo;
a wild-eyed fusion of Indian, Thai, Paraguay- h 12:30-3:30pm Mon-Wed, 12:30-3:30pm &
an influences (among many), drawn from 8:30pm-midnight Thu & Fri, 8:30pm-midnight Sat)
chef Mariano Ramón’s world travels. Come French-trained Chef Antonio Soriano pre-
early or late to avoid the inevitable wait. sides over the kitchen at this contemporary
restaurant. The few main dishes change
Siamo nel Forno PIZZA $$
weekly but are always delicious, beautifully
(Map p84; % 011-4775-0337; Costa Rica 5886; presented and accented with edible flowers.
pizzas AR$120-160; h 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & If you order the tasting menu (AR$370),
Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat) Possibly the city’s best bring your appetite.
Naples-style pizzas, made with quality in-
gredients and finished in a hot wood-fired La Carnicería PARRILLA $$$
oven so the thin crusts char beautifully. Try (Map p84; % 011-2071-7199; Thames 2317;
the Margherita, with tomatoes, fresh mozza- mains AR$180-190; h 8pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1-3pm
rella, basil and olive oil; the Champignon & & 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun) It took a while, but
Prosciutto comes with mushrooms, ham and BA finally has its small, boutique parrilla –
goat cheese. Also bakes up excellent calzone. and it’s very, very good. The menu is limited
93
but everything on it is spectacular, from the Most cafes serve all meals and everything
baked cabbage appetizer to the crispy provo in between: breakfast, brunch, lunch, after
leta (barbecued cheese) to the tenderloin noon tea, dinner and late-night snacks.
and rib cuts. Don’t miss the lengua (tongue) Generally they open early in the morning
if it’s on the menu. Creativity runs rampant, and late into the evening.
and portions are huge. Reserve ahead. In a city that never sleeps, finding a good
drink is as easy as walking down the street.
Casa Coupage INTERNATIONAL $$$
B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife

Whether you’re into trendy lounges, Irish
(Map p84; % 011-4777 9295; www.casacoupage. pubs, traditional cafes or sports bars, you’ll
com; Soler 5518; mains AR$200-220; tasting menu find them all within the borders of BA.
AR$560; h 8:30-11pm Wed-Sat) Wine lovers will Argentines aren’t huge drinkers and
love this closed-door restaurant run by two you’ll be lucky to see one rip-roaring drunk.
friendly sommeliers, Santiago Mymicopulo One thing they do do, however, is stay up
and Inés Mendieta. Choose between their late. Most bars and cafes are open until two
tasting menu or à la carte; the gourmet food or three in the morning, and often until 5am
is gorgeously presented and will be some of on weekends – or until the last customer
the best you’ll experience in BA. The wine stumbles out the door.
pairings are excellent and pours generous; If you like to party with young, heavy-
expect to try some of Argentina’s tastiest drinking crowds, check out Buenos Aires
malbec, pinot, torrontés and chardonnay. Pub Crawl (% 15-3894-0586; www.pubcrawl
Reserve ahead. ba.com).
La Cabrera PARRILLA $$$ BA’s boliches (nightclubs) are the throb-
(Map p84; % 011-4831-7002; www.lacabrera. bing heart of its world-famous nightlife. To
com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 5099; mains AR$250- be cool, don’t arrive before 2am (or even
400; h 12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am) and dress up. Payment for admission
2am Fri & Sat) Hugely popular for grilling up and drinks is nearly always in cash only.
BA’s most sublime meats. Steaks weigh in at For one of BA’s biggest and most unique
400gm or 800gm and arrive with many little parties, check out the improvised percussion
complimentary side dishes. Come at 7pm for at La Bomba de Tiempo (Map p84; www.
happy hour, when everything is 40% off – labombadetiempo.com; Sarmiento 3131; h Mon
just make sure you get here early enough to 7pm); it’s at 7pm every Monday at Ciudad
score a table. Three other locations, mostly Cultural Konex.
nearby.
Sudestada ASIAN $$$
6 Microcentro
(Map p84; % 011-4776-3777; Guatemala 5602; La Cigale COCKTAIL BAR
set lunch AR$115-130, mains AR$210-235; h noon- (Map p58; %011-4893-2332; www.facebook.com/
3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) lacigalebar; 25 de Mayo 597; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-
Sudestada’s well-prepared curries, stir-fries close) This sensuous upstairs bar-restaurant
and noodle dishes are inspired by the cui- is popular with both office workers (during
sines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and the day) and music-industry folks (later in
Singapore – and if you order them spicy, the evening). There’s either live music or DJs
they’re actually spicy. Don’t forgot an exot- most nights, but it’s best known for its ‘Minel-
ic cocktail or delicious lychee licuado (fruit ek’ night on Tuesday, when electronica and
shake). The popular set-lunch special is exotic cocktails draw heavy crowds. Fusion
great value. foods are served for both lunch and dinner.
6 Drinking & Nightlife Café Tortoni CAFE

(Map p58; % 011-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.
Cafes are an integral part of porteño life, and com.ar; Av de Mayo 829) BA’s oldest and most
you shouldn’t miss popping into one of these famous cafe, the classic Tortoni has become
beloved hangouts to sip dainty cups of coffee so popular with foreigners that it’s turned
and nibble biscuits with the locals. There are into a tourist trap. Still, it’s practically an
plenty of cafes in the city, and while you’re obligatory stop for any visitor to town: or-
walking around seeing the sights you’re der a couple of churros (fried pastry dough)
bound to run across one and find an excuse with your hot chocolate and forget about the
for a break. Some cafes are old classics and inflated prices. There are also tango shows
guaranteed to take you back in time. (p104) nightly – reserve ahead.
94
London City CAFE tea, along with breakfast and dainty sand
(Map p58; % 011-4342-9057; Av de Mayo 599; wiches de miga (thin, crustless sandwiches,
h 6am-2am) This classy and historic cafe traditionally eaten at tea time). Imported
has been serving java enthusiasts for over teas and coffees are sold in bulk, and a
50 years, and claims to have been the spot range of exotic herbs and spices are also
where Julio Cortázar wrote his first novel. on offer.
Your hardest work here, however, will most
likely be choosing which pastry to try with

your fresh cup of coffee.
6 San Telmo
oBar Plaza Dorrego CAFE
Bahrein CLUB (Map p58; % 011-4361-0141; Defensa 1098;
(Map p58; % 011-6225-2731; www.bahreinba. h 8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3:30am Fri & Sat)
com; Lavalle 345; h Thu-Sun) Attracting a good You can’t beat the atmosphere at this tradi-
share of BA’s tattooed youth, Bahrein is a tional joint; sip your submarino (hot milk
hugely popular downtown club housed in an with chocolate) by a picturesque window
old bank (check out the ‘vault’ in the base- and watch the world pass by, or grab a
ment). On the ground floor is the lounge- table on the busy plaza. Meanwhile, tra-
like Funky Room where resident DJs spin ditionally suited waiters, piped-in tango
house music and electronica. Downstairs music, antique bottles and scribbled graf-
is the happening Xss discotheque, an im- fiti on walls and counters might take you
pressive sound system and a dance floor for back in time.
hundreds.
Doppelgänger COCKTAIL BAR
(Map p65; % 011-4300-0201; www.doppelganger.
6 Congreso com.ar; Av Juan de Garay 500; h 7pm-2:30am
Café de los Angelitos CAFE Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat) This cool,
(Map p58; % 011-4952-2320; www.cafedelos emerald-hued corner bar is one of the only
angelitos.com; Av Rivadavia 2100; h 8am- places in BA where you can count on a per-
midnight) Originally called Bar Riva
davia, fectly mixed martini. That’s because Doppel
this cafe was once the haunt of poets, gänger specializes in vermouth cocktails.
musicians, even criminals, which is why a The atmosphere is calm and the lengthy
police commissioner jokingly called it ‘los menu is fascinating: start with the journal-
angelitos’ (the angels) in the early 1900s. ist, a martini with a bitter orange twist, or
Restored to its former glory, this historic channel Don Draper and go for the bar’s
cafe is now an elegant hangout for coffee or bestseller – an old-fashioned.
tea; it also puts on tango shows (p99) in
the evening. La Puerta Roja BAR
(Map p58; % 011-4362-5649; Chacabuco 733;
Clásica y Moderna CAFE h 5pm-late) There’s no sign at this upstairs
(Map p58; % 011-4811-3676; www.clasicay bar – just look for the red door. It has a cool,
moderna.com; Av Callao 892; h 8am-9pm Mon- relaxed atmosphere with low lounge fur-
Fri, 9am-9pm Sat) Catering to the literary niture in the main room and a pool table
masses since 1938, this cozy and intimate tucked behind. This is a traditional place,
bookstore-restaurant-cafe continues to ooze so you won’t find fruity cocktails on the
history from its atmospheric brick walls. menu – but there is good international food
It’s nicely lit, serves fine, simple meals, and like curries, tacos and chicken wings.
offers nightly live performances of folk mu-
sic, jazz, bossa nova and tango (after 9pm). Gibraltar PUB
Mercedes Sosa (may she rest in peace), (Map p58; % 011-4362-5310; Perú 895; h noon-
Susana Rinaldi and Liza Minnelli have all 4am) One of BA’s classic pubs, the Gibraltar
chirped here. has a cozy atmosphere and a good bar coun-
ter for those traveling alone. It’s also a great
El Gato Negro TEAHOUSE place for fairly authentic foreign cuisine –
(Map p58; % 011-4374-1730; Av Corrientes try the Thai, Indian or English dishes. For
1669; h 9am-10pm Mon, to 11pm Tue, to midnight a little friendly competition, head to the
Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun) Tea- pool table in the back. There are sports on
lined wooden cabinets and a spicy aroma TV, and happy hour runs from noon to 8pm
welcome you to this pleasant little sipping every day.
paradise. Enjoy imported cups of coffee or
95
Milión COCKTAIL BAR
6 Retiro (Map p70; % 011-4815-9925; www.milion.com.
oFlorería Atlántico COCKTAIL BAR ar; Paraná 1048; h 6pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu,
(Map p70; % 011-4313-6093; Arroyo 872; to 4am Fri & Sat) One of BA’s most gorgeous
h 7pm-close Mon-Sat) One of BA’s hottest and elegant bars, this sexy spot takes up
bars, this basement speakeasy is located three floors of a renovated old mansion.
within a flower shop, adding an air of mys- The garden out back is a leafy paradise,

tery and likely a main reason for its suc- overlooked by a solid balcony that holds the
cess. Hipsters, artists, chefs, businesspeople best seats in the house. Nearby marble steps
and expats all flock here for the excellent are also an appealing place to lounge with a
cocktails, whether classic or unique, and the frozen mojito or basil daiquiri, the tastiest
lack of gas lines means all of the delicious cocktails on the menu. The downstairs res-
tapas and main dishes are cooked on the taurant serves international dishes.
parrilla grill.
BASA Basement Bar BAR
6 Recoleta & Barrio Norte
(Map p70; % 011-4893-9444; www.basabar. oPony Line Bar BAR
com.ar; Basavilbaso 1328) Also a fine restau- (Map p70; % 011-4321-1200; www.elenapony
rant, this trendy and high-class spot sets the line.com; Posadas 1086; h 11am-2am Mon-Thu, till
mood right with open spaces, dim lighting 3am Fri, 6pm-3am Sat, 5pm-1am Sun) This so-
and lounge-y sofas. Check out its cocktail phisticated, upscale and polo-inspired bar is
list – the refreshing Moscow Mule is a pleas- located in the five-star Four Seasons Hotel,
ant surprise, especially on warm days. BASA so expect a very fine experience. Drinks are
isn’t cheap, so consider dropping by during exceptional and high quality, from the arti-
happy hour (starting at 7pm on weekdays, sanal beers to exotic cocktails to fine inter-
8pm on weekends) for drink specials. Good national liquors; the food is fantastic as well.
food is also available, and DJs provide the Dress well, bring a fat wallet and come early
sounds on weekends. if you’d like to avoid the crowds; otherwise
reserve ahead.
WINE TASTING & MORE

Big on wine? There are a few ways in Buenos Aires to find out what Argentina’s best
grapes have to offer.
For private wine tastings, your best bet is with Anuva Wines (% 15-5768-8589; www.
anuvawines.com). Try five boutique vintages with food pairings; it will also ship your wine
purchases to the US. For informal tastings, inquire at Pain et Vin (Map p84; % 011-
4832-5654; Gorriti 5132), a casual wine and bread shop. Bar du Marché (Map p84;
% 011-4778-1050; www.bardumarchepalermo.com; Nicaragua 5946; h 12:30-4pm & 8pm-
midnight Mon-Sat) is a low-key bistro offering 50 wines by the glass (plus a wine store next
door), while Gran Bar Danzón (Map p70; % 011-4811-1108; www.granbardanzon.com.ar;
Libertad 1161) is an upscale lounge-restaurant that also has a good selection of wines by
the glass.
Wine ‘tours’ are another good way to sample some of Argentina’s best grapes.
Try Wine Tour BA (www.winetourba.com), where you’ll sip and nibble your way
around the neighborhood of Palermo; another to try is Urban Adventures (www.
urbanadventures.com).
Some puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) offer fine wines with their meals;
Casa Coupage (p93), run by an Argentine sommelier couple, is especially wine
oriented. Others to try include Casa Saltshaker (p91) and i Latina (p92).
For wine shops there’s Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (p109) in Palermo – it offers
tastings as well. In San Telmo, Vinotango (Map p58; % 011-4361-1101; www.vinotango.
com.ar; Estados Unidos 488; h 10:30am-9pm) is a good destination. Aldo’s Vinoteca
(p87) is a restaurant that sells wines at retail prices, and offers wine flights and
weekly tastings too.
Finally, Miravida Soho (p83) is a boutique hotel that boasts a fine wine cellar and
gives wine tastings for its guests.
96
La Biela CAFE table for those serious about work. Brewing
(Map p70; % 011-4804-0449; www.labiela. and espresso classes also on offer.
com; Av Quintana 600; h 7am-2am Sun-Thu, to
3am Fri & Sat) A Recoleta institution, this oVictoria Brown COCKTAIL BAR
classic landmark has been serving the (Map p84; % 011-4831-0831; www.victoria
porteño elite since the 1950s – when race- brownbar.com; Costa Rica 4827; h 9pm-4am Tue-
car champions used to frequent the place. Sat) Secreted behind a large draped door
inside a cute coffee shop, this speakeasy
The outdoor front terrace is unbeatable

on a sunny afternoon, especially when the lounge serves up excellent food and tasty,
nearby weekend feria (street market) is in high-quality cocktails. It’s a very popular
full swing. Just know that this privilege will place so dress up and come early to snag a
cost 20% more. sofa or curvy table-booth. Boasts a beautiful
and sophisticated industrial-decor atmos-
Casa Bar SPORTS BAR phere; even the bathroom fittings are cre
(Map p70; % 011-4816-2712; www.casabar ative. Reserve ahead for dinner.
argentina.com; Rodríguez Peña 1150; h 6pm-5am
Mon-Fri, 9pm-5am Sat, 7pm-5am Sun) This recy- o878 COCKTAIL BAR
cled antique house turned sports bar offers (Map p84; % 011-4773-1098; www.878bar.com.
a large selection of spirits and microbrews, ar; Thames 878; h 7pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4:30am
along with a wine list stocked with higher- Fri, 8pm-4:30am Sat & Sun) Hidden behind an
end bottles. You’ll also find nachos, pizzas unsigned door is this ‘secret’ bar, but it’s
and spicy hot wings on the menu, plus hardly exclusive. Enter a wonderland of
happy-hour specials from 7pm to 10pm. elegant, low lounge furniture and red-brick
Casa Bar is stylish but casual – and a great walls; for whiskey lovers there are over 80
spot to watch sports on TV, especially Amer- kinds to try, but the cocktails are tasty too.
ican football and baseball. If you’re hungry, tapas are available (reserve
for dinners).
Shamrock Basement CLUB
(Map p70; % 011-4812-3584; Rodríguez Peña oVerne COCKTAIL BAR
1220; h Thu-Sat) This cool but unpretentious (Map p84; % 011-4822-0980; Av Medrano 1475;
subterranean club is known for first-rate h 8pm-3am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 9pm-4am Sat, to
DJ lineups, pounding house music and a 3am Sun) Upscale yet casual bar with slight
diverse young crowd. Thanks to the Sham- Jules Verne theme. Cocktails are the spe-
rock, the ever-popular Irish pub upstairs, cialties here, whipped up by one of BA’s best
the place sees plenty of traffic throughout bartenders, Fede Cuco. A few tables, some
the night. Come at 3am to see the club in cushy sofas and an airy outdoor patio offer a
full swing, or just descend the stairs after variety of seating options, but plant yourself
enjoying a few pints at ground level. at the bar to see drinks being made; check
out the French absinthe server. House-made
6 Palermo Negroni available.
Many hotels and restaurants in Palermo oMagdalena’s Party BAR
have great bars, such as Home Hotel (Map (Map p84; % 011-4833-9127; www.magdalenas
p84; % 011-4778-1008; www.homebuenosaires. party.com; Thames 1795; h 8pm-2am Mon, 11am-
com; Honduras 5860; h 8am-midnight). For the 3am Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun) Popular
hippest scene in town, head to Plaza Serrano bar-restaurant with laid-back atmosphere
(in Palermo Viejo) and settle in at one of the and buena onda (good vibes). DJs spin
many trendy bars surrounding the plaza. from Thursday to Saturday nights, and with
cheap drinks this is a good preclub spot; try
oLAB Training Center & the vodka lemonade by the pitcher. Happy
Coffee Shop CAFE, COFFEE
hour runs from noon to midnight daily, and
(Map p84; % 011-4843-1790; www.labcafe.com.
tasty expat-friendly food is served, such as
ar; Humbolt 1542; h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) High
freshly ground hamburgers, California-style
ceilings and industrial chic are hallmarks
burritos and organic coffee. Popular week-
of this excellent coffee shop. Choose your
end brunch too.
house-roasted beans and have them run
through a chemex, aeropress, V60, kalita, Harrison Speakeasy COCKTAIL BAR
syphon or clever dripper. Mostly counter (Map p84; % 011-4831-0519; Malabia 1764;
seating, though upstairs there’s a communal h 9pm-12:30am Tue & Wed, to 2am Thu, to 4am Fri
97
& Sat) Enter through a wine cellar then vault Bring a growler for refills; happy hour runs
door to one of BA’s most exclusive and ‘se- 6pm to 8:30pm.
cret’ bars. It’s a time machine to 1920s New
York, complete with candlelit atmosphere Mundo Bizarro COCKTAIL BAR
and fog-machine air. Head bartender Seba (Map p84; % 011-4773-1967; Serrano 1222;
h 8pm-3am Mon-Thu, 9pm-4am Fri, to 5am Sat)
Garcia creates some of Argentina’s best
cocktails, but unless you eat beforehand at This red-lit, futuristically retro and stylish
lounge bar is open pretty much all through

Nicky’s sushi restaurant out front (ask to
‘see the wine cellar’ once you get the check) the night on weekends, when everything
or charm your five-star hotel’s concierge, it’s from old-time American music to hip DJs to
unlikely you’ll get in. jazz stirs up the air waves. If you’re feeling
peckish, check out the American-inspired
Frank’s Bar COCKTAIL BAR bar food, which ranges from Tex-mex to
(Map p84; % 011-4777-6541; www.franks-bar. burgers to hot apple pie with ice cream.
com; Arévalo 1445; h 9pm-4am Wed-Sat) Very Dance on the stripper pole after you’ve had
popular plush, elegant speakeasy bar that a few drinks.
‘requires’ a password (via telephone booth)
to get in – request it at its Facebook or Sugar SPORTS BAR
Twitter page. Inside it’s a beautiful space (Map p84; % 011-4831-3276; www.sugarbuenos
with crystal chandeliers, billowy ceiling aires.com; Costa Rica 4619; h 7pm-5:30am Tue-
drapes and exclusive feel. Classic cocktails Fri, 11am-5:30am Sat, 11am-3am Sun) This lively
from before the 1930s are stirred – never expat watering hole brings in a youthful
blended – and served to a crowd of locals nightly crowd with well-priced drink spe-
and foreigners. cials and comfort food like chicken fingers
and buffalo wings. Watch sports on the five
Antares BAR large TV screens or come on Thursdays –
(Map p84; % 011-4833-9611; www.cerveza also known as ladies’ night – when things
antares.com; Armenia 1447; h 7pm-4am) Thirsty can get a little rowdy. On weekends, you can
for a decent cerveza? Look no further than roll out of bed and arrive in time for eggs
this modern but relaxed restaurant-bar with and mimosas.
Argentine-brewed ales, porters, stout and
barley wine. Order a beer flight, sample Lattente Espresso &
the brewmaster’s special-edition selection Brew Bar CAFE, COFFEE
or just enjoy the two-for-one pints during (Map p84; % 011-4833-1676; www.cafelattente.
happy hour. Also in Las Cañitas (Map p84; com; Thames 1891; h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
Arévalo 2876). 8pm Sun) Riding on BA’s java boom is this
modern coffee shop serving house-roasted
El Carnal BAR beans. Order your espresso, cappuccino,
(Map p84; % 011-4772-7582; www.carnalbar. Americano or latte (via aeropress or V60)
com.ar; Niceto Vega 5511; h 7pm-5:30am Tue-Sat) and have a seat at one of the tall commu-
See and be seen on the rooftop terrace at nal tables along with other hipster caf-
this ever-popular watering hole – preferably feine junkies. A few cookies and an alfajor
in the open air with an icy vodka tonic in (cookie-type sandwich) or two are on offer.
hand. With its bamboo lounges and billowy
curtains, the place can’t be beat for a cool Pachá CLUB
chill-out on a warm summer night. Early in (% 011-4788-4288; Av Rafael Obligado 6151; h Sat)
the week reggae rocks, while Thursday to Popular, long-running electronica club well-
Saturday means pop and ’80s tunes. known for attracting famous internation-
al DJs who spin tunes for the sometimes
On Tap BREWERY
drug-addled crowds. Laser light shows and
(Map p84; % 011-4771-5424; www.ontap.com.ar; a great sound system makes the chic crowds
Costa Rica 5527; h 6pm-midnight Tue-Wed & Sun, happy through the early morning light – be
to 1am Thu-Sat) This popular new brewery sure to bring your shades and watch the sun
pours 20 Argentine microbrews on tap, in- come up from the terrace.
cluding IPAs, pilsners, stouts, wheat porters
and honey beers. It’s more of a place to enjoy Kika CLUB
beers than to hang out – there’s only coun- (Map p84; www.kikaclub.com.ar; Honduras 5339;
ter seating and a communal table, though a h Tue-Sun) Being supremely well located
few burgers and other pub food is available. near the heart of Palermo Viejo’s bar scene
98
makes Kika’s Tuesday-night popular ‘Hype’ Niceto Club CLUB
party easily accessible for the trendy crowds. (Map p84; % 011-4779-9396; www.nicetoclub.
It’s a mix of electro, rock, hip-hop, drum and com; Niceto Vega 5510; h Thu-Sat) One of the
bass, and dubstep, all spun by both local and city’s biggest crowd-pullers, the can’t-miss
international DJs. Other nights see electron- event at Niceto Club is Thursday night’s
ica, raggaeton, Latin beats and live bands Club 69, a subversive DJ extravaganza fea-
ruling the roost. turing gorgeously attired showgirls, dancing
drag queens, futuristic video installations

Jet CLUB and off-the-wall performance art. On week-
(% 011-4872-5599; www.jet.com.ar; Avenida Rafael end nights, national and international spin
Obligado 4801; h Thu-Sat) Jet definitely has an masters take the booth to entertain lively
exclusive vibe that attracts celebrities and crowds with blends of hip-hop, electronic
fashionistas, so put on your best get-up or beats, cumbia and reggae.
you won’t make the dress code. Early on
you can hang in the trendy cocktail lounge, Crobar CLUB
nibble on tapas or sushi and enjoy the mar (Map p84; % 011-4778-1500; www.crobar.com.
ina view. As the night progresses, however, ar; cnr Av de la Infanta Isabell & Freyre; h Fri & Sat)
the hip young clubbers start making their Stylish and spacious Crobar remains one
appearance – come after 3am for the best- of BA’s most popular nightlife spots. Friday
looking crowd. Music runs toward house usually features international DJs mashing
and electro. up the latest techno selections, while Sat-
urday is popular with the LGBT crowd and
GAY & LESBIAN BUENOS AIRES

In July 2010 Argentina became the first Latin American country to legalize same-sex
marriage. Since then BA has become a huge gay destination, lending momentum to local
events such as the Marcha del Orgullo Gay (Gay Pride Parade; www.marchadelorgullo.
org.ar; h Nov) and the Queer Tango Festival (www.festivaltangoqueer.com.ar).
To mix with local gays, check out popular bars like loud Sitges (Map p84; www.face
book.com/fiestaplop; cnr Federico Lacroze & Álvarez Thomas) and casual Flux (Map p70;
% 011-5252-0258; Marcelo T de Alvear 980; h 7pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat). The coffee
shop Pride Cafe (Map p58; % 011-4300-6435; Balcarce 869; h 10am-8pm ; W ) attracts
mixed crowds in San Telmo. For a fun night of guided drinking and partying, there’s Out
& About Pub Crawl (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com).
The best nightclubs are rough-and-tumble Amerika (Map p84; % 011-4865-4416;
www.ameri-k.com.ar; Gascón 1040; h Fri-Sun) and sexy-beautiful Glam (Map p84; % 011-
4963-2521; www.glambsas.com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 3046; h Thu-Sat) and Palacio Al
sina (Map p58; % 011-4331-3231; www.palacioalsina.net; Adolfo Alsina 940; h Sun, plus 1 Fri
per month). Current hot gay parties include Fiesta Plop (www.facebook.com/fiesta
plop), the monthly Fiesta Dorothy! (www.fiestadorothy.com) and Rheo (www.rheo.
com.ar). Niceto Club (p98) has a raucous Thursday night cross-dressing event.
An especially gay-friendly accommodations is Lugar Gay (Map p58; % 011-4300-
4747; www.lugargay.com.ar; Defensa 1120; dm US$30, s US$50-70, d US$80-105), a casual
guesthouse that also acts as an information center. Casa Brandon (Map p84; % 011-
4858-0610; www.brandongayday.com.ar; Luis Maria Drago 236; h 8pm-3am Wed-Sun) is an art
gallery–cultural center.
Good general websites are www.thegayguide.com.ar and www.nighttours.com/
buenosaires. For free gay literature, look for La Otra Guía, Circuitos Cortos (www.
circuitoscortos.com.ar/mapagay) and Gay Maps (www.gmaps360.com).
There aren’t many places catering exclusively to lesbians. Try long-running and inti-
mate Bach Bar (Map p84; % 15-5184-0137; José Antonio Cabrera 4390; h 11pm-6am Wed-
Sun), but otherwise there are the gay spots listed above. La Fulana (www.lafulana.org.
ar) is a lesbian cultural center.
Finally, gay classes and milongas (tango academies) are given at El Beso’s La Mar-
shall Milonga (p105), Tango Queer (Map p58; www.tangoqueer.com) in San Telmo,
and Lugar Gay.
99
tends to feature electro-pop and Latin beats. rego, though it can get crowded. Another
The main levels are strewn with mezzanines good bet is weekends on El Caminito in La
and catwalks that allow views from above; Boca, and often there’s a couple dancing at
bring a hefty wallet as this is a top-end spot. the intersection of Florida and Lavalle.
3 Entertainment Centro Cultural Borges TANGO

(% 011-5555-5359; www.ccborges.org.ar; cnr
Nonstop Buenos Aires has endless possibil- Viamonte & San Martín; shows US$22-28) This
B u e n os Ai re s E ntertainment
ities for entertainment. Dozens of venues excellent cultural center has many quality
offer first-rate theatrical productions, in- offerings, including impressive, reasonably
dependent or contemporary movies, sultry priced tango shows several times per week.
tango shows, raging dance parties and excit- Bien de Tango, on Friday and Saturday
ing sports matches. nights at 8pm, is especially good and com-
Many newspapers publish entertainment parable to other tango shows that are triple
supplements on Friday; the Buenos Aires the cost. Check the cultural center’s website
Herald has a particularly handy one. Also or stop in beforehand to see what’s on tap,
check www.vuenosairez.com. and get an advance ticket.
Major entertainment venues often re-
quire booking through Ticketek (% 011-5237- Café de los Angelitos TANGO
7200; www.ticketek.com.ar), which incurs a ser- (Map p58; % 011-4952-2320; www.cafedelos
vice charge. At carteleras (discount-ticket angelitos.com; Av Rivadavia 2100; show from
offices), you can buy tickets at 20% to 50% US$100, show & dinner from US$140) Angelitos
discount for many events like tango shows, puts on one of the best shows in Buenos
theater performances, movies and concerts. Aires. It’s tango – but also a bit more. The
There are offices inside Galería Apolo performers dress in top-notch costumes and
(% 011-4372-5058; www.cartelerabaires.com; Av use interesting props, like drapes and mov-
Corrientes 1382, Galería Apolo); right on pedes- ing walls. They also dance to modern tunes
trian Lavalle (% 011-4322-1559; www.123info. such as those by local band Bajofondo, and
com.ar; Lavalle 742); and on Av Corrientes despite a nightclub feel at times – especially
(% 011-6320-5319; www.veamasdigital.com.ar; Av due to the lighting – it’s all very tastefully
Corrientes 1660, Local 2). and creatively done.
Tango Shows Rojo Tango TANGO
Sensationalized tango shows aimed at tour- (Map p58; % 011-4952-4111; www.rojotango.
ists are common and impressive (though com; Faena Hotel & Universe, Martha Salotti 445;
‘purists’ don’t consider them authentic). show US$220, show & dinner from US$290) This
These usually include various tango couples, sexy performance is the tango show to top
an orchestra and a couple of singers. They all others – especially with its hefty price tag.
last about 1½ hours and come with a dinner Offering only 100 seats, the Faena’s cabaret
option. Nearly all of them require reserva- room is swathed in blood-red curtains and
tions; some offer modest online discounts gilded furniture. The show itself loosely fol-
and optional pickup from your hotel. lows the history of the tango, starting from
Modest shows are more intimate and cost its cabaret roots to the modern fusions of
far less, but you won’t get the theatrics, the Ástor Piazzolla.
costume changes or the overall visual punch
(which could be a plus depending on your Piazzolla Tango TANGO
point of view). For discount tickets to some (Map p58; % 011-4344-8201; www.piazzollatango.
shows, check the carteleras. The website com; Florida 165; show from US$90, show & din-
www.tangotix.com can help you choose the ner from US$135) This beautiful art-nouveau
right show and sells discounted tickets. theater, just off pedestrian Florida street,
Some milongas (tango academies) oc- used to be a red-light cabaret venue. The
casionally put on affordable tango shows; show here is based on the music of Ástor
check out Confitería Ideal (p105), La Piazzolla, a bandoneón (small type of accor
Viruta (p105) or Academia Nacional del dion) player who revolutionized tango music
Tango (Map p58; % 4345-6967; www.anacdel by fusing in elements from jazz and classical
tango.org.ar; Av de Mayo 833). music. Be aware most tables are communal
For free (or rather, donation) tango, head and you’ll be facing sideways to watch the
to San Telmo on a weekend afternoon; danc- show. Check its website for good discounts.
ers do their thing in the middle of Plaza Dor-
100
The Tango
A lone woman, dressed in slit skirt and high heels, sits at a small table. She glances
around, in search of the subtle signal. Her gaze suddenly locks onto a stranger’s eyes,
and there it is: the cabeceo. She nods and rises to meet him, and the new pair head
toward the dance floor.
History of Tango and betrayal by women. Sometimes

raunchy lyrics were added.
The tango hasn’t always been quite so The perceived vulgarity of the dance
mysterious, but it does have a long and was deeply frowned upon by the reigning
somewhat complex history. Though the elites, but it did manage to influence
exact origins can’t be pinpointed, some some brash young members of the upper
believe the dance started in Buenos classes, who took the novelty to Paris and
Aires in the 1880s. Legions of European created a craze – a dance that became
immigrants, mostly lower-class men, an acceptable outlet for human desires,
arrived in the great village of Buenos
Aires to seek their fortunes. Missing
their motherlands and the women they
left behind, they sought out bars, cafes
JUPITERIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©
and bordellos to ease the loneliness.
Here the men cavorted with waitresses
and prostitutes, helping to evolve a
dance blending machismo, passion and
longing, with an almost fighting edge
to it.
Small musical ensembles were soon
brought in to accompany early tangos,
playing tunes influenced by pampas
milonga verse, Spanish and Italian
melodies (dance hall) and African
candombe drums. (The bandoneón,
a small accordion, was brought into
these sessions and has since become an
inextricable part of the tango orchestra.)
Here the tango song was also born. It
summarized the new urban experience
for the immigrants and was permeated
with nostalgia for a disappearing way
of life. Themes ranged from profound
feelings about changing neighborhoods to
the figure of the mother, male friendship
1–3. Tango dancers

101
JAVIER PIERINI/GETTY IMAGES © PICAVET/GETTY IMAGES ©
102
expressed on the dance floors of elegant to the end of a set (four songs) with any
cabarets. The trend spread around partner; if you are given a curt ‘gracias’
Europe and even to the US, and 1913 was after just one song, consider yourself
considered by some to be ‘the year of the excused.
tango.’ When the evolved dance returned Your position in the area surrounding
to Buenos Aires, now refined and famous, the dance floor can be critical. Ideally,
the tango finally earned the respectability you should sit where you have easy
it deserved. The golden years of tango access to the floor and to other dancers’
were just beginning. line of sight. You may notice singles
sitting in front, while couples sit further
Tango at a Milonga back. Generally couples are considered
‘untouchable’ – for them to dance with
Today others, they either enter the room
Buenos Aires is full of milongas (tango separately, or the man may signal his
dance events), from classic venues with intent by asking another woman to the
old-time atmosphere to hip warehouse floor. Now ‘his’ woman becomes available
spaces where dancers wear jeans – in to others.
other words, there’s something for The cabeceo – the quick tilt of the
everyone. head, eye contact and uplifted eyebrows –
At an established milonga, finding a can happen from way across the room.
good, comparable partner involves many The woman to whom the cabeceo is
levels of hidden codes, rules and signals directed either nods yes and smiles, or
that dancers must follow. In fact, some pretends not to have noticed. If she says
men will only proposition an unknown yes, the man gets up and escorts her to
woman after the second song, so as not the floor. If she pretends not to have
to be stuck with a bad dancer. After all, seen him, it’s considered a rejection.
it’s considered polite to dance at least When you’re at a milonga and don’t want
103
JAVIER PIERINI/GETTY IMAGES ©
PABLO CARIDAD/GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Tango class 2. Musician playing the bandoneón (p100)
to dance with anyone, don’t look around So what is the appeal of the tango?
too much – you could be breaking some Experienced dancers will say that the
hearts. rush from a blissful tango connection
Don’t be surprised to see different with a stranger can lift you to
milongas put on at a single venue, exhilarating heights. But the dance can
depending on the time or day. Each also become addictive – once you have
milonga can be run by a different fallen for the passion and beauty of the
promoter, so each will have its own vibe, tango’s movements, you can spend your
style, music and table arrangement, as life trying to attain a physical perfection
well as age levels and experiences. that can never be fully realized. The true
For good information on Buenos tanguero simply attempts to make the
Aires’ tango scene and how to navigate journey as graceful as possible.
it, get a copy of Sally Blake’s practical
guide Happy Tango: Sallycat’s Guide to
Dancing in Buenos Aires, 2nd edition
(www.sallycatway.com/happytango). You
can pick up free tango magazines at
milongas and tango shoe shops (of which
there are many in Buenos Aires).
Tango classes are often available in TOP MILONGAS
the same venue as milongas, in the
¨¨ Salon Canning (p104)
hours before they start. But you can find
them everywhere from youth hostels to ¨¨ Club Gricel (p105)
cultural centers – some are even included ¨¨ Confitería Ideal (p105)
free when you book a fancy tango show. ¨¨ La Viruta (p105)
Tourist-oriented classes are often taught ¨¨ La Catedral (p105)
in English.
104
El Viejo Almacén TANGO on billiard tables (check out the basement).
(Map p58; % 011-4307-7388; www.viejoalmacen. Tango shows happen a few times per week
com; cnr Balcarce & Av Independencia; show from in the 60-seat back theater – just make sure,
US$90, show & dinner from US$140) One of if you care, that the tango show highlights
Buenos Aires’ longest-running shows (since dancers, as sometimes it’s only a tango mu-
1969), this venue is a charming old building sic show. Tango classes offered Wednesdays
from the 1800s. A good dinner is served at a at 7pm.
multistory restaurant in the main building,

then everyone heads across the street to the Todo Mundo TANGO
small theater with intimate stage. The show (Map p58; % 011-4362-2354; Pasaje Anselmo
starts with a quick movie about the tango Aieta 1095) A pair of tango dancers enter-
show’s history, then moves on to the high- tain diners continuously from 12:30pm to
ly athletic dancers with plenty of glitz. One 8pm during the day, working on tips, at this
highlight is the exceptionally good folklore casual restaurant on Plaza Dorrego. Basic
segment. and mediocre-quality fare includes empa
nadas, pasta and parrilla. More complete
La Ventana TANGO tango shows happen for Thursday night din-
(Map p58; % 011-4334-1314; www.laventanaweb. ners. Expect flamenco, rock, salsa, folk and
com; Balcarce 431; show from US$115, show & jazz on other nights; all shows start around
dinner from US$170) This long-running base- 10:30pm.
ment venue is located in an old converted
building with rustic brick walls in San Tel- Milongas
mo. The tango show includes a folkloric seg- Milongas are dance events where people
ment with Andean musicians and a display strut their tango skills. The atmosphere at
of boleadores (gaucho hunting weapons). these events can be modern or historical,
There’s also a patriotic tribute to Evita, and casual or traditional. Most have tango DJs
the dinner offers a wide variety of tasty main that determine musical selections, but a few
dishes – unusual for tango shows. Gala Tan- utilize live orchestras.
go is a more upscale experience and hap- Milongas either start in the afternoon
pens upstairs. Free tango lesson included. and run until 11pm, or start at around mid-
night and run until the early-morning light
Esquina Carlos Gardel TANGO (arrive late for the best action). Classes are
(Map p84; %011-4867-6363; www.esquinacarlos often offered beforehand.
gardel.com.ar; Carlos Gardel 3200; show from To get the inside scoop on BA’s tango
US$96, show & dinner from US$140) One of the scene while taking a ‘tour’ of milongas,
fanciest tango shows in town plays at this check out www.narrativetangotours.com or
impressive 430-seat theater, an old canti- www.tangotrips.com. For a current list of
na right next to the lovely shopping mall milongas, see www.hoy-milonga.com.
Mercado de Abasto. This fine show high-
lights passionate, top-notch musicians and La Glorieta MILONGA
performers in period costumes, though a (Barrancas de Belgrano; h around 7pm Fri-Sun)

modern segment involving a skin suit is For a unique outdoor experience, head to
cutting-edge, athletic and memorable. the bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgra-
no, where the casual milonga La Glorieta
Café Tortoni TANGO takes place. There’s often a free tango lesson
(Map p58; % 011-4342-4328; www.cafetortoni. beforehand. Check the Facebook page for
com.ar; Av de Mayo 829) Nightly tango shows details.
(reserve ahead) take place at this historic yet
very touristy place. If you come earlier for Salon Canning MILONGA
the cafe, you may have to line up outside be- (Map p84; % 15-5738-3850; www.parakultural.
forehand. Despite these downfalls, the Tor- com.ar; Av Scalabrini Ortiz 1331) Some of BA’s
toni is BA’s most famous cafe and still offers finest dancers (no wallflowers here) grace
a beautiful atmosphere. this traditional venue with its great dance
floor. Well-known tango company Parakul-
Los 36 Billares TANGO tural stages good events on Monday, Tues-
(Map p58; % 011-4381-8909; www.los36billares. day and Friday, involving live music, tango
com.ar; Av de Mayo 1271; show US$10-12) Dating DJs, singers and dancers. Expect big crowds
from 1894, this is one of the city’s most his- and plenty of tourists.
toric cafe-bars. As its name implies, it’s big
105
Club Gricel MILONGA a class at 10:30pm before the milonga at
(% 011-4957-7157; www.clubgriceltango.com.ar; La 11:30pm.
Rioja 1180) This old classic (far from the
center; take a taxi) often has big crowds, Live Music
especially on Thursday. It attracts an older, Smaller venues showcase mostly local groups;
well-dressed clientele – along with plenty of international stars tend to play at large
tourists. There’s a wonderful springy dance venues such as fútbol stadiums or Luna Park
(Map p58; % 011-5279-5279; www.lunapark.com.
floor and occasionally live orchestras.
ar; cnr Bouchard & Av Corrientes). Clásica y Mod-
Confitería Ideal MILONGA erna (p94) occasionally hosts jazz groups.
(Map p58; % 011-4328-7750; www.facebook. With so many porteños boasting Span-
com/idealconfiteria; Suipacha 384, 1st fl) This in- ish ancestry, it’s not surprising that there
stitution (since 1912) is the mother of all his- are a few flamenco venues in town. Most
toric tango halls, with classes and milongas are located in Congreso’s Spanish neighbor-
offered daily (or nearly so). Live orchestras hood, near the intersection of Salta and Av
occasionally accompany dancers, and there de Mayo.
are dinner-tango shows on Friday and Satur- Música folklórica (folk music) also has
day. The actual cafe section could use a face its place in BA. There are several peñas
lift, as it’s a bit dim, stodgy and impersonal, (folk-music clubs) in the city, but other
but it remains a classic. Featured in the film venues occasionally host música folklórica –
The Tango Lesson. keep your eyes peeled.
La Catedral MILONGA Centro Cultural Kirchner CONCERT VENUE
(Map p84; % 15-5325-1630; www.lacatedralclub. (Map p58; % 0 800-333-9300; www.cultural
com; Sarmiento 4006) If tango can be youthful, kirchner.gob.ar; Sarmiento 151) Located in Bue-
trendy and hip, this is where you’ll find it. nos Aires’ gorgeous ex-main post office, this
The grungy warehouse space is very casual, gigantic building is home to dozens of event
with funky art on the walls, thrift-store halls – including a concert venue that holds
furniture and dim atmospheric lighting. nearly 2000 and is home to Argentina’s na-
It’s more like a bohemian nightclub than tional symphony orchestra. Check the web-
anything else, and there’s no implied dress site for happenings and get there early for
code – you’ll see plenty of jeans. Great for tickets. Most events are currently free, but
cheap alcohol; the best-known milongas oc- may cost a nominal charge in the future.
cur regularly on a Tuesday night.
Usina del Arte CONCERT VENUE
La Viruta MILONGA (Map p65; www.usinadelarte.org; Agustín Caffa
(Map p84; % 011-4774-6357; www.lavirutatango. rena 1) This restored old electricity factory is
com; Armenia 1366, basement) Popular base- a valiant attempt to breathe new life into an
ment venue. Good beginner tango classes edgy section of La Boca. It’s a gorgeous red-
are available before milongas – translating brick building complete with scenic clock
into many inexperienced dancers on the tower, and its concert hall – boasting top-
floor earlier on – so if you’re an expert get notch acoustics – can seat 1200 spectators.
here late (after 3:30am). Music can run Offers free or inexpensive art exhibitions,
the gamut from tango to rock to cumbia along with music, theater and dance per-
to salsa earlier in the evening, with more formances. Check the website for current
traditional tunes later. Tango shows also on happenings.
offer.
Teatro Colón CLASSICAL MUSIC
El Beso MILONGA (Map p58; % 011-4378-7100; www.teatrocolon.
(Map p58; % 011-4953-2794; Riobamba 416, org.ar; Cerrito 628) BA’s premier venue for the
1st fl) A traditional and popular place, El arts, with ballet, opera and classical music.
Beso attracts some very good dancers – you
should be very confident of your dancing La Trastienda ROCK, REGGAE
skills if you come here. Located upstairs, it (Map p58; % 011-5254-9100; www.latrastienda.
has good music and a cozy feel. com; Balcarce 460) This large, atmospheric
On Friday night, El Beso hosts the far less theater in San Telmo welcomes over 700,
traditional but still well-known La Marshall features a well-stocked bar, and showcases
Milonga, a gay milonga, for all who want to national and international live-music acts
try a change of roles in their tango. There’s almost nightly. Look for headers such as
106
Charlie García, Divididos, José González, Teatro Nacional Cervantes THEATER
Damien Rice and Conor Oberst. Check its (Map p58; % 011-5222-4109; www.teatrocervan
website for the latest. tes.gov.ar; Libertad 815) This architecturally
gorgeous theater featuring three halls, a
Notorious JAZZ
grand lobby and red-velvet chairs has good
(Map p58; % 011-4813-6888; www.notorious. productions at affordable prices.
com.ar; Av Callao 966) This stylish, intimate
joint is one of Buenos Aires’ premier jazz Teatro San Martín THEATER
B u e n os Ai re s S h opping
venues. Up front you can buy CDs of vari- (Map p58; % 011-4371-0111; www.complejo
ous music genres, while in the back the teatral.gob.ar; Av Corrientes 1530) This major
restaurant-cafe (overlooking a verdant gar- venue has several auditoriums (the largest
den) hosts live shows nearly every night at seats over 1000 people) and showcases inter-
9:30pm. Log on to the website for schedules; national cinema, theater, dance and classical
most performances are jazz, but there’s also music, covering conventional and more unu-
Brazilian music. sual events. It also has art galleries and often
hosts impressive photography exhibitions.
Thelonious Bar JAZZ
(Map p84; % 011-4829-1562; www.thelonious. Teatro Presidente Alvear THEATER
com.ar; Salguero 1884, 1st fl; h 9pm-1am Thu, to (Map p58; % 011-4371-0111; www.complejoteatral.
3am Fri & Sat) Upstairs in an old mansion gob.ar; Av Corrientes 1659) Inaugurated in 1942
lies this dimly lit jazz bar, with high brick and named after an Argentine president
ceilings and a good sound system. Come whose wife sang opera, this theater holds
early to snag a seat (or reserve one ahead over 850 and shows many musical pro-
of time) and partake in the typically Ar- ductions, including ballet. Occasional free
gentine menu and good range of cocktails. shows are on offer.
Thelonious is known for its classic and
Cinemas
contemporary Argentine jazz lineups,
BA is full of cinemas, both historical neon
though international musicians sometimes
classics and slick modern multiplexes. The
entertain.
traditional cinema districts are along ped
Ávila Bar FLAMENCO estrian Lavalle (west of Florida) and on Av
(Map p58; % 011-4383-6974; Av de Mayo 1384; Corrientes, but newer cineplexes are spread
h Thu-Sat) Offering flamenco for many years throughout the city; most large shopping
now is this cozy little Spanish restaurant malls have one.
with good traditional food. Main dishes (or Check out the Buenos Aires Herald for
tapas) can include rabbit, paella and sea- original titles of English-language films. Ex-
food stews. Flamenco shows start around cept for kids’ films, most movies are in their
10:30pm and reservations are a must on original language (with Spanish subtitles).
weekends.
Los Cardones FOLK MUSIC
7 Shopping
Shopping is practically a sport for many
(Map p84; % 011-4777-1112; www.cardones.com.
Buenos Aires’ citizens who despite steeply
ar; Borges 2180; h from 9pm Wed-Sat) Come
rising inflation, continue to shop as if there’s
to this friendly, low-key peña for mellow
no tomorrow. As the saying goes, ‘An Argen-
guitar shows, audience- participatory jam
tine will make one peso and spend two.’
sessions (and possible dancing), hearty re-
In the Microcentro, Florida is a multi-
gional cuisine from northern Argentina and
purpose pedestrian strip that buzzes with
free-flowing red wine. Shows start at 10pm
shoppers, while Av Santa Fe is a bit less
on weekdays and 11pm weekends. Check out
pedestrian-friendly but equally prominent
the website for details on the current lineup
as the city’s main shopping artery. San
and reserve ahead for a good table.
Telmo is ground zero for antiques, and Av
Theater Pueyrredón near Once train station is the
Av Corrientes, between Avs 9 de Julio and place for cheap (and lower-quality) clothing.
Callao, has traditionally been the capital’s Jewelry shops are found on Libertad south
center for theater, but there are now dozens of Av Corrientes. Leather jackets and bags
of venues throughout the city. are cheapest on Calle Murillo (500–600
block), in Villa Crespo.
107
For avant garde fashions, Palermo Viejo is bly the best English-language bookstore in
the place to be. This neighborhood, split by BA. Thousands of new and used literature
railroad tracks into Palermo Soho and Paler- and nonfiction books line the shelves here,
mo Hollywood, has the most concentrated and there’s a selection of Latin American
number of clothing boutiques between Pla- classics translated into English. Bring your
za Serrano and Plaza Palermo Viejo. You’ll quality books to trade; literary workshops
find housewares and plenty of knick-knack offered too.
shops here too. Prices are high.
As in other Western countries, bargaining Cualquier Verdura CLOTHING, HOMEWARES
is not acceptable in most stores. Expensive (Map p58; % 011-4300-2474; Humberto Primo
items such as jewelry and leather jackets can 517; h noon-8pm Thu-Sun) Located in a lovely,
be exceptions, especially if you buy several. refurbished old house, this fun store sells
At street markets you can try negotiating for eclectic items from vintage clothing to old
better prices – just keep in mind you may books to recycled floppy-disc lamps to con-
be talking to the artists themselves, who temporary housewares and novelty toys.
generally don’t make much money. San Tel- Wander through the outdoor patio and note
mo’s antiques fair, Feria de San Telmo, is an the stained-glass windows on the wall and
exception: prices here are often inflated for mate-drinking Buddha above the fountain.
tourists.
Materia Urbana ART, HOMEWARES
(Map p58; %011-4361-5265; www.materiaurbana.
7 Microcentro & Congreso com; Defensa 702; h11am-7pm Wed-Fri, 2-7pm Sat,
Arte y Esperanza CRAFTS 10:30am-7pm Sun) This innovative design shop
(Map p58; % 011-4343-1455; www.arteyesperanza. shows the work of over 100 local artists; cool
com.ar; Balcarce 234; h 9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri) finds include leather animal organizers, ret-
This store sells fair-trade, handmade prod- ro tote bags, plastic mate gourds and jewelry
ucts that include many from Argentina’s in- made from metal, wood and leather.
digenous craftspeople. Shop for silver jewel Punto Sur CLOTHING
ry, pottery, ceramics, textiles, mate gourds, (Map p58; % 011-4300-9320; www.feriapunto
baskets, woven bags, wood utensils and ani- sur.com.ar; Defensa 1135; h 11:30am-7:30pm)
mal masks. There’s another branch in Retiro This is a great clothing store highlighting
(Map p58; % 011-4393-3270; www.arteyesperanza.
the works of nearly 70 Argentine designers.
com.ar; Suipacha 892).
Creativity is rampant and it’s a fun walk-
Zival’s MUSIC through for one-of-a-kind funky threads, in-
(Map p58; www.zivals.com; Av Callao 395; cluding interesting knitwear, colorful skirts,
h 9:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat) This is one of the printed T-shirts, jewelry and accessories,
better music stores in town, especially when cool handbags and even kids’ stuff.
it comes to tango, folk, jazz and classical
Moebius CLOTHING
music. Listening stations are a big plus, and
(Map p65; % 011-4361-2893; Defensa 1356;
many books are also for sale.
h 11am-8pm Tue-Sun) This funky little shop’s
Wildlife OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT racks are crowded with owner-designer Lil-
(Map p58; % 011-4381-1040; Hipólito Yrigoyen liana Zauberman’s kaleidoscopic products:
1133; h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) If you’re 1970s-style jersey dresses, whimsical ruffled
looking to buy all manner of outdoor and bikinis, skirts printed with koi fish and frog
camping equipment, this is the place to do it. patterns, cherry-red trench coats and hand-
Crampons, knives, tents, backpacks, climb- bags made from recycled materials. Around
ing gear, foul-weather clothing, skateboards, 60 designers sell their work here, so there’s
military gear and even the occasional mule always something different, fun and new to
saddle can be found at this somewhat off- keep an eye out for.
beat and musty shop.
Gil Antiguedades ANTIQUES
(Map p58; % 15-6295-1079 annex; Humberto
7 San Telmo Primo 412; h 11am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun) Going
Walrus Books BOOKS on 45 years, this cluttered antique shop
(Map p58; % 011-4300-7135; Estados Unidos sells everything you can imagine – china tea
617; h noon-8pm Tue-Sun) Run by an Ameri- sets, leather hatboxes, old toys, mirrors, vin-
can photographer, this tiny shop is proba- tage suitcases, lace tablecloths and crystal
108
glassware. Its annex (by appointment only)
has wedding dresses and accessories. 7 Palermo
Rapsodia CLOTHING
(Map p84; % 011-4831-6333; www.rapsodia.
7 Recoleta & Retiro com; Honduras 4872; h 10am-9pm) With fab-
El Ateneo BOOKS rics from linen to leather and details like
(Map p70; Av Santa Fe 1860; h 9am-10pm Mon- fringe and sequins, this large and popular
Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun) Buenos boutique is a must for fashion mavens. Old
Aires’ landmark bookseller stocks a limited and new are blended into creative, colorful
number of books in English, including Lone- styles with exotic and bohemian accents. Lo-
ly Planet guides. There are several branch- cals covet its dresses and jeans; over a dozen
es within the city, but this one – the Gran branches in the city.
Splendid – is in a gorgeous old renovated
cinema. Bolivia CLOTHING
(Map p84; % 011-4832-6284; Gurruchaga 1581;
Autoría ART, ACCESSORIES h 10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8:30pm Sun)
(Map p70; % 011-5252-2474; www.autori- There’s almost nothing here that your young,
absas.com.ar; Suipacha 1025; h 9:30am-8pm hip and possibly gay brother wouldn’t love,
Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) This cool designer’s from the stylish plaid shirts to the skin-tight
showcase – stocked with edgy art books, jeans to the military-styled jackets. Metro-
sculptural fashions, whimsical leather desk sexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man
sculptures and unique jewelry of all mate- who isn’t afraid of patterns, plaid or pastels.
rials (silk cocoons!) – strives to promote Ar- Has a second Palermo (Map p84; % 011-
gentine designers. Especially interesting are 4832-6409; Nicaragua 4908; h 11:30am-8:30pm
the recycled materials – check out the bags Mon-Sat) branch.
made of tyvek, inner tubes, firehoses or even
Calma Chicha HOMEWARES
old sails. Products are of high quality and
(Map p84; % 011-4831-1818; www.calmachicha.
prices are accessible.
com; Honduras 4909; h 10am-8pm ) Calma Chi-
cha specializes in creative housewares and
BUENOS AIRES STREET MARKETS

Some of BA’s best crafts and souvenirs are sold at its many street markets, often by
the artists themselves. You may have to sort through some tacky kitsch, but you’ll also
find creative and original art. Often there is also ‘free’ (ie donation) entertainment from
casual performers.
Feria de San Telmo (Map p58; Defensa; h 10am-6pm Sun; g 10, 22, 29, 45, 86) On Sun-
days, San Telmo’s main drag is closed to traffic and the street is a sea of both locals and
tourists browsing craft stalls, waiting at vendors’ carts for freshly squeezed orange juice,
poking through the antique glass ornaments on display on Plaza Dorrego, and listening
to street performances by myriad music groups. Runs from Av San Juan to Plaza de
Mayo.
Feria Artesanal (Map p70; Plaza Intendente Alvear; h 10am-7pm) Recoleta’s hugely
popular fair has dozens of booths and a range of creative, homemade goods. Hippies,
mimes and tourists mingle. It’s at its biggest on weekends; located just outside the Ce-
menterio de la Recoleta.
Feria Plaza Serrano (Map p84; Plaza Serrano; h 10am-8pm Fri-Sun) Costume jewelry,
hand-knit tops, mate gourds, leather accessories and a whole lot of junk fill the crafts
booths at this small but lively fair on fashionable Plaza Serrano in Palermo.
Feria de Mataderos (% 011-4342-9629; www.feriademataderos.com.ar; cnr Avs Lisandro de
la Torre & de los Corrales; h 11am-8pm Sun Apr–mid-Dec, 6pm-midnight Sat late Jan–mid-Mar)
The unique Feria de Mataderos is far off in the working-class barrio of Mataderos, but it’s
worth hiking out here for the shows of horsemanship, folk dancing and cheap authentic
treats. From downtown, take bus 126, 155 or 180 (one hour). Confirm hours beforehand;
it closes for a couple weeks ‘between’ seasons.
109
accessories that are locally produced from
leather, faux leather, sheepskin, cowhide, PESKY INFLATION
and brightly hued fabric. Look for butter-
Be warned: while accurate at the time of
fly chairs, throw rugs, leather place mats,
research, prices quoted here are likely
bright pillows and cow-skin bags.
to rise rapidly. The unofficial inflation
Patio del Liceo MALL rate is over 30% (officially it’s 15%).
(Map p84; % 011-4822-9433; Av Santa Fe 2729) Because of Argentina’s high inflation,
B u e n os Ai re s O rientation
Eclectic little shopping mall with funky and hotels and certain other businesses
casual vibe. In the past few years, young sometimes quote in US dollars. For
struggling artists have taken over and cre accommodations we’ve published
ated an artistic hub here, filling it with prices in dollars; for most other listings
various small boutiques, exhibition spaces they are in pesos. Keep an attentive eye
and workshops. You’ll find a couple of book- for AR$ and US$ as you look through
stores, a record store and some design stores. the listings.
Hours vary depending on individual stores.
Hermanos Estebecorena CLOTHING Further north is Palermo, an upper-middle-
(Map p84; % 011-4772-2145; www.hermanos class suburb with spacious parks, plenty of
estebecorenashop.com; El Salvador 5960; h 11am- shopping and heaps of restaurants; it’s sub
8pm Mon-Sat) The Estebecorena brothers divided into the trendy neighborhoods of Paler-
apply their highly creative skills toward mo Soho, Palermo Hollywood and Las Cañitas,
among others. And edging Palermo’s borders
smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into
are Belgrano and Once, both home to concen-
bags, polo-collar work shirts and even seam- trations of ethnic Chinese, Korean, Peruvian and
less underwear. The focus is on original, Jewish people.
highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing BA’s Ezeiza airport is about 35km south of the
that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection city center.
is limited, but what’s there really counts.
Lo de Joaquín Alberdi FOOD, WINE 88 Information
(Map p84; % 011-4832-5329; www.lodejoaquin CONCIERGE SERVICES
alberdi.com; Jorge Luis Borges 1772; h 11am- BA Cultural Concierge (% 15-3876-5937;
9:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun) Nationally www.baculturalconcierge.com) Madi Lang’s
produced wines for every taste and budget concierge service helps you plan itineraries,
line the racks and cellar of this attractive arrange airport transportation, run errands, get
wine shop. Tastings happen Thursday and a cell phone, reserve theater tickets, scout out
Friday at 7:30pm (double-check ahead of a potential apartment and do a thousand other
time) and include four wines and some things that’ll help your trip to run smoothly.
cheeses. EMERGENCY
Ambulance (% 107)
88 Orientation Police (% 911, 101)
BA is a huge metropolis, but most places of Tourist Police (Comisaría del Turista; % 011-
interest are in just a few easily accessible 4346-5748, 0800-999-5000; Av Corrientes
neighborhoods. 436; h 24hr) Provides interpreters for travel
The heart of the city is Microcentro; it’s small insurance reports.
enough to walk around fairly easily. Just east
is Puerto Madero, with scenic docklands and INTERNET ACCESS & TELEPHONE
a large ecological park. Further south is San Internet cafes and locutorios (telephone offices)
Telmo, known for its lovely colonial architecture with internet access are relatively common in
and Sunday fair. South of here is La Boca, famed the center. Rates are cheap and connections are
for colorful houses clad in corrugated metal. fast. Most cafes and restaurants have free wi-fi.
West of the Microcentro sits Congreso, BA’s If you’re in Buenos Aires for a long while, you
seat of politics, boasting some stately buildings. can rent a desk, a cubicle, an office or a meeting
To the north is upscale Retiro, home to the city’s room via Areatres (% 011-5353-0333; www.area
main train station and bus terminal. And just tresworkplace.com; Malabia 1720; h 8:30am-
northwest lie Recoleta and Barrio Norte, boast- 8pm Mon-Fri). There are fax and copy services,
ing some of BA’s most expensive real estate complete internet connections, networking
and dotted with art museums, fancy shops and social events – even a Zen-like patio. Also has a
luxurious mansions. second Palermo (% 011-5258-7600; Humboldt
2036) branch.
1 10
TRAVELING SAFELY IN BUENOS AIRES

While crime does exist in BA (as it does in any big city) and you’ll notice that porteños
are very security conscious, in general BA is fairly safe. In many places you can com-
fortably walk around at all hours of the night, even as a lone woman, as people gener-
ally stay out very late. However, be careful at night in some neighborhoods, including
Constitución (around the train station), the eastern border of San Telmo, and La Boca
B u e n os Ai re s I nformation
(outside tourist streets).

Crime against tourists is almost always of the petty sort, such as pickpocketing in
crowded markets, the Subte or buses, or bag snatches when you’re not looking – things
smart travelers can guard themselves against. Be wary of the old ‘mustard trick’ – some-
one pointing out ‘bird droppings’ or whatever on your clothing, placed there by an ac-
complice, and offering to clean it up (while your valuables go off with the accomplice).
Other things to watch out for are the occasional fake bill. Most people get them in
dark environments like taxis or nightclubs.
Minor nuisances include the lack of respect shown by vehicles toward pedestrians, lax
pollution controls and high noise levels.
If you’ve been robbed in some way, contact the tourist police (p109) to file a claim;
they provide interpreters.
MEDIA checked; boxes are also sold here. Look for the
BA’s most popular newspapers are the en- building with the yellow facade.
tertaining, tabloid-like Clarín and the more DHL Internacional (Map p58; % 0810-122-
moderate and upper-class La Nación. Página 3345; www.dhl.com.ar; Av Córdoba 783) Many
12 provides a leftist perspective, while Ámbito branches around town.
Financiero is the voice of the business sector. For Federal Express (Map p58; % 0810-333-
news in English there’s the Buenos Aires Herald. 3339; www.fedex.com; Maipú 753, Microcentro)
OCA (Map p58; % 4311-5305; www.oca.
MEDICAL SERVICES com.ar; Viamonte 526, Microcentro) For
Dental Argentina (% 011-4828-0821; www. domestic packages.
dental-argentina.com.ar; Laprida 1621, 2B) Den-
tal services with English-speaking professionals. TOURIST INFORMATION
Hospital Británico (% 4309-6400; www. There are several small government tourist
hospitalbritanico.org.ar; Perdriel 74) offices or kiosks in BA; hours vary throughout
Hospital Italiano (% 4959-0200; www.hospital the year. The official tourism site of Buenos Aires
italiano.org.ar; Juan D Perón 4190) is www.bue.gob.ar and the government site is
www.buenosaires.gob.ar.
MONEY Diagonal Roque Saénz Peña Tourist Kiosk
Banks and cambios (official money-exchange of- (Map p58; cnr Florida & Diagonal Roque
fices) are common in the city center; banks have Saénz Peña)
longer lines and more limited opening hours Plaza San Martín Tourist Kiosk (Map p70;
but may offer better rates. Cuevas (clandestine cnr Florida & Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro)
money exchange offices) can come and go – ask Puerto Madero Tourist Office (Map p58;
around for one nearby. You’re on your own if you Dique 4)
use the ubiquitous arbolitos (ie unofficial money Recoleta Tourist Kiosk (Map p70; Av
changers) on Florida, offering ‘cambio, cambio, Quintana 596)
cambio’ to passing pedestrians. Just remember
Ministerio de Turismo (Map p70; % 011-
there are quite a few fake bills floating about.
4312-2232; www.turismo.gov.ar; Av Santa Fe
American Express (% 011-4310-3000; Are- 883, Retiro; h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Mostly info
nales 707) in Retiro changes traveler’s checks on Argentina but helps with BA.
10am to 4pm Monday to Friday.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
POST
Anda Responsible Travel (%011-3221-0833;
The post office has branches all over the city. www.andatravel.com.ar; Billinghurst 1193, 3B)
Correo Internacional (Map p70; % 011- Most notable for its La Boca tour, which intro-
4891-9191; www.correoargentino.com.ar; Av duces travelers to local organizations working
Antártida Argentina; h 9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) toward improving the lives of its citizens. Also
For international parcels weighing 2kg to 20kg. does tours around Argentina that benefit local
Bring an open box or parcel as contents will be citizens, which are sometimes indigenous groups.
111
Say Hueque (% 011-5258-8740; www.say BOAT
hueque.com; Thames 2062, Palermo) This BA has a regular ferry service to and from Co-
independent travel agency specializes in cus- lonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay. Ferries
tomized adventure trips all around Argentina, leave from the Buquebus (Map p70; % 011-
and will also make air, bus and hotel reserva- 4316-6500; www.buquebus.com; cnr Avs Antár-
tions. It offers various BA tours as well. Also tida Argentina & Córdoba) terminal in Puerto
has a branch in San Telmo (% 011-4307-2614; Madero. There are many more launches in the
Chile 557). warmer months of September to April.
B u e n os Ai re s G etting T h ere & Away

Tangol (% 011-4363-6000; www.tangol.com;
Florida 971, Suite 31) Do-all agency that of- BUS
fers city tours, tango shows, guides to fútbol BA’s modern Retiro bus terminal (Map p70;
games, hotel reservations, Spanish classes, www.tebasa.com.ar; Av Antártida Argentina) is
air tickets and country-wide packages. Also 400m long, three floors high and has bays for 75
offers unusual activities including helicopter buses. The bottom floor is for cargo shipments
tours and skydiving. Has another branch in San and luggage storage, the top for purchasing
Telmo (Defensa 831). tickets and the middle for everything else. The
information booth (% 011-4310-0700; h 24hr)
USEFUL WEBSITES will help you find the right long-distance bus (or
Argentina Independent (www.argentina check the terminal’s website); it’s located near
independent.com) For current news. the escalators at the southern end of the termi-
Bubble (www.bubblear.com) For fun news. nal. Other services include a tourist office (Map
LandingPadBA (www.landingpadba.com) For p70; h 7:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, to 4:30pm
quirky articles. Sat & Sun) on the same level as bus bay 36,
Pick Up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com) For ATMs, telephone offices (some with internet),
foodie entertainment. cafes and many small stores.
You can buy a ticket to practically anywhere
in Argentina and departures are fairly frequent
88 Getting There & Away to the most popular destinations. Prices vary
AIR widely according to bus company, class, season
Buenos Aires is Argentina’s international gate- and inflation. Reservations are not necessary
way and easily accessible from North America, except during peak seasons (January, February
Europe and Australasia, as well as other capital and July). To get a current price on a destination,
cities in South America. check www.omnilineas.com (certain long-
distance destinations require connections).
Almost all international flights arrive at BA’s
Ezeiza airport, about 35km south of the center. Retiro bus terminal is connected to the local bus
This modern airport has good services such as system, but it’s a giant snarl and hard to figure
ATMs, restaurants and duty-free shops, an inter- out. There’s a nearby Subte station and Retiro
net cafe, a pharmacy, a 24-hour post office and train station. Street taxis are numerous, though
free but slow wi-fi. remises (call taxis) are generally more secure –
there are several remise booths near the bus
Most domestic flights use Aeroparque Jorge bays; the one near bus bay 54 is open 24 hours.
Newbery airport, a short distance north of
downtown BA. TRAIN
Flight information for both airports, in English Privately run trains connect Buenos Aires’
and Spanish, is available at 5480-6111 or www. center to its suburbs and nearby provinces. The
aa2000.com.ar. three main central stations are served by Subte.
TRAINS FROM BUENOS AIRES
DESTINATION(S) STATION CONTACT

Tigre, Rosario, Córdoba Retiro Línea Mitre (% 0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
& Tucumán
Southern suburbs Constitución Línea Roca (% 0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
& La Plata
Bahía Blanca, Tandil Constitución Ferrobaires (% 0810-666-8736; www.ferrobaires.gba.
& Mar del Plata gov.ar)
Southwestern suburbs Once Línea Sarmiento (% 0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar)
& Luján
112
88 Getting Around Another shuttle service, directed at independ-
ent travelers, is Hostel Shuttle (%011-4511-8723;
TO & FROM AIRPORTS www.hostelshuttle.com.ar). Check the website
Chauffeur-Driven Car for prices, schedules and drop-off destinations
For a special treat, reserve a luxury car from (only at certain hostels), and try to book ahead.
Silver Star Transport (% in Argentina 15-6826- You can also try www.minibusezeiza.com.ar.
8876, in the USA 214-502-1605; www.silver- Shuttles between Ezeiza and Aeroparque Jorge
starcar.com); you’ll be driven by native English Newbery airport (the domestic airport) cost
B u e n os Ai re s G etting A round
speakers from Ezeiza airport to the destination AR$155; from Aeroparque to the center AR$60.
of your choice (US$160). There are car-rental
booths at Ezeiza, but we do not recommend Taxi
renting a car for your stay in Buenos Aires. If taking a taxi, avoid MTL’s overpriced taxi ser-
vice. Instead, go past the transport ‘lobby’ area
Bus outside customs, past the taxi drivers holding
If you’re really on a penny-pinching budget, take signs, and you’ll see the freestanding city taxi
public bus 8 from Ezeiza airport, which costs stand with a blue sign saying Taxi Ezeiza (% 011-
AR$8, runs every 20 to 30 minutes and can take 5480-0066; www.taxiezeiza.com.ar; h24hr).
up to two hours to reach the Plaza de Mayo area. At the time of writing it charged AR$450 to the
Catch it outside Terminal B, or outside Terminal A center (for a discount reserve via their website).
(turn to the right and walk a couple minutes to the Note that if you pre-arrange your taxi back to
bus stop across from the Petrobras gas station). Ezeiza after your stay in BA, the rate can be
You’ll need an inexpensive SUBE card to pay for about 20% cheaper.
the bus; buy one at the kiosko across from check- Taxis between Aeroparque and the city center
in stand 25 (the sign says ‘open 25 hours!’). cost around AR$130.
A new service, Arbus (www.arbus.com.
ar), offers inexpensive bus transport between BICYCLE
Aeroparque Jorge Newbery and Ezeiza (only if Vehicular traffic in BA is dangerous and hardly
you’re an Aerolineas Argentinas passenger) and respectful toward bicycles, but things are im-
between Aeroparque and six locations around proving, with an expanding bike-lane system and
BA; you’ll need a SUBE card. Check their website a free bike-share program. The Ecobici (www.
for details. buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici) bike-share program
is mostly for residents but tourists can rent as
Shuttle well – have copies of your passport’s main page
If you’re alone, the best way to and from Ezeiza and entry-stamp page. Rentals are for an hour
airport is taking a shuttle with a transfer on weekdays and two hours on weekends, with
company such as Manuel Tienda León (MTL; renewals possible.
% 011-4315-5115; www.tiendaleon.com; Av Some areas call out for two-wheeled explora-
Eduardo Madero 1299, Ezeiza Airport). You’ll see tion, such as Palermo’s parks and the Reserva
its stand immediately as you exit customs, in the Ecológica Costanera Sur. On weekends and
transport ‘lobby’ area. Frequent shuttles cost some weekdays you can rent bikes at these
AR$145 per person to the city center, run all day places, or at private tours companies.
and night, and take 40 to 60 minutes, depending
on traffic. They’ll deposit you at their MTL office BUS
(from where you can take a taxi). To understand BA’s huge, complex bus system
buy a Guia T (bus guide); they’re sold at any
newsstand, but try to find the handy pocket
SUBE CARD version or check www.omnilineas.com and click
on ‘City buses.’ Most routes run 24 hours.
The SUBE Card (www.sube.gob.ar) is Colectivos (local buses) take either coins or
a handy and inexpensive rechargeable a magnetic bus card called SUBE, but won’t
card that you use for the Subte, local take bills. Bus ticket machines on board give
buses and trains. It saves you money small change from coins. Offer your seat to the
and means you don’t have to keep a elderly, pregnant women and women with young
stash of coins on hand. Get it at some children.
kiosks, lottery offices, post offices or CAR
any other business that displays the Most local drivers are reckless, aggressive and
SUBE logo. Ezeiza airport and Retiro bus even willfully dangerous. They ignore speed
terminal also have Sube kiosks where limits, signs, lines and signals, and will tailgate.
you can buy this card. Charging the card Buses are a nightmare to reckon with, potholes
itself is easy, and can be done at many are everywhere, and congestion and parking
kiosks or Subte stations. are a pain.
113
Public transportation is great and taxis are At night the driver will turn on the light (luz) so
cheap and plentiful, but if you still insist on rent- you can carefully check your change (look for a
ing a car, you’ll need to be at least 21 years of age watermark on bills). They’ll do the same with your
and have a valid driver’s license, credit card and bills. And make sure you get the right change.
passport; an international driver’s license isn’t Pretend to have an idea of where you’re going;
necessary. a few taxis offer the ‘scenic’ route (though also
In Retiro, try Avis (% 011-4326-5542; www. be aware there are many one-way streets in BA).
avis.com.ar; Cerrito 1535); Hertz (% 011-4816- A good way to do this is to give the taxi driver an
B u e n os Ai re s T I G R E & T H E D E LTA
0899; www.hertz.com.ar; Paraguay 1138), intersection rather than a specific address. Also,
which is also home to Thrifty Car Rental; or if you are obviously a tourist going to or from
local, friendly and cheap New Way (% 011-4515- a touristy spot, don’t ask how much the fare is
0331; www.new-wayrentacar.com; Marcelo T de beforehand; this makes it tempting to quote a
Alvear 773). higher price rather than using the meter.
Try to snag an ‘official’ taxi, usually marked by
SUBTE (SUBWAY)
a roof light and license number printed on the
BA’s Subte (www.buenosaires.gob.ar/subte) is doors. Official drivers must display their license
the quickest way to get around the city, though on the back of their seat or dashboard; write down
it can get mighty hot and crowded during rush the details in case of problems or forgotten items.
hour and it’s a haven for pickpockets. It consists
You can also call a remise (call taxi) instead
of Líneas (Lines) A, B, C, D, E and H. Four parallel
of hailing street cabs. Remises look like regular
lines run from downtown to the capital’s west-
cars and don’t have meters. They cost a bit more
ern and northern outskirts, while Línea C runs
than street taxis but are more secure, since an
north–south and connects the two major train
established company sends them out. Any hotel
stations of Retiro and Constitución. Línea H runs
or restaurant will call a remise for you.
from Once south to Av Caseros, with plans to
expand it.
One ride on the Subte costs AR$4.50. To
avoid queues buy several rides at once or get a
SUBE card (p112).
Trains operate from 5am to around 10:30pm
Monday to Saturday and 8am to around 10pm
Sunday and holidays. Service is frequent on
weekdays; on weekends you’ll wait longer. At
some stations platforms are on opposite sides,
so be sure of your direction before passing
through the turnstiles.
TAXI & REMISE
Buenos Aires’ numerous and relatively inex-
pensive taxis are conspicuous by their black-
and-yellow paint jobs. They click every 200m
(or every minute of waiting time) and cost 20%
more after 10pm. Make sure that the meter’s set
to the current price when you start your ride.
Drivers do not expect a big tip, but it’s custom-
ary to let them keep small change. Taxis looking
for passengers will have a red light lit on the
upper right corner of their windshield.
Most cab drivers are honest workers making
a living, but there are a few bad apples. Try not
to give them a 100 peso note for a small fare;
sometimes they’re short on change, but there
have been cases where the driver quickly and
deftly replaces a larger bill with a smaller (or
fake) one. One solution is to state how much you
are giving them and ask if they have change for it
(‘¿Tiene usted cambio de un cien?’ – ‘Do you have
any change for a hundred?’).
Be wary of receiving counterfeit bills. If you’re
suspicious this might happen, note aloud the
last three numbers/letters on a bill as you’re
giving it to him.
458
Lago del Desierto or for full-day excursions
that include a few hours at Laguna Larga. El Calafate
Equipment is provided; call for current rates % 02902 / POP 21,130
and information on fishing licenses. Named for the berry that, once eaten,
Horseback Riding guarantees your return to Patagonia, El Ca
Horses can be used to trot round town and lafate hooks you with another irresistible at-
to carry equipment with a guide (prices ne- traction: Glaciar Perito Moreno, 80km away
gotiable), but are not allowed unguided on in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The glacier
national-park trails. Outfitter El Relincho is a magnificent must-see, but its massive
(% 02692-493007, in El Calafate 02902-491961; popularity has encouraged tumorous growth
www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar; Av San Martín and rapid upscaling in once-quaint El Cala-
505, El Chaltén; 4hr ride AR$850) takes riders to fate. However, it’s still a fun place to be, with
the pretty valley of Río de las Vueltas and a range of traveler services. The strategic
also offers more challenging rides combined location between El Chaltén and Torres del
with a ranch barbecue. Cabin-style accom- Paine (Chile) makes it an inevitable stop for
modations are also available. those in transit.
Located 320km northwest of Río Galle-
Kayak & Canoe Trips gos, and 32km west of RP 11’s junction with
Patago nia E
As El Chaltén grows, so do the aquatic offer- northbound RN 40, El Calafate flanks the
ings. Fitzroy Expediciones (p457) has half- southern shore of Lago Argentino. The main
day guided kayaking trips on the Río de las strip, Av del Libertador General San Martín
Vueltas that stop for lunch at the company’s (typically abbreviated to Libertador), is dot-
adventure camp. (Overnight stays are also ted with cutesy knotted-pine souvenir shops,
I nlan
S lleeping
available in the timber lodge and eight cab- chocolate shops, restaurants and tour offic-
C alafat
ins, 17km north of town – ask at the office in es. Beyond the main street, pretensions melt
away quickly: muddy roads lead to ad-hoc
d Patag
El Chaltén for more info.) You can also book

two-day canoe and camping trips to Río La developments and open pastures.
Leona. January and February are the most pop-
e o nia
ular (and costly) months to visit, but as

Lake Cruises shoulder- season visits grow steadily, both
Patagonia Aventura (p457) offers cruises availability and prices stay a challenge.
(per person AR$650, plus AR$170 transfer)
on Lago Viedma with impressive views of 1 Sights
the 40m Glaciar Viedma, grinding from
Cerro Fitz Roy. Boat trips leave from Puerto
oGlaciarium MUSEUM
(% 497912; www.glaciarium.com; adult/child
Bahía Túnel and last 2½ hours.
AR$230/100; h 9am-8pm Sep-May, 11am-8pm
Rock Climbing Jun-Aug) Unique and exciting, this gorgeous
Outfitters around town rent equipment; Pa- museum illuminates the world of ice. Dis-
tagonia Mágica (% 02692-486261; www.pata plays and bilingual films show how glaciers
goniamagica.com; Fonrouge s/n, El Chaltén) runs form, along with documentaries on conti-
one-day rock-climbing workshops for begin- nental ice expeditions and stark meditations
ners. Experienced climbers can go on the on climate change. Adults suit up in furry
Glaciar Laguna Torre with certified guides. capes for the bar de hielo (AR$140 includ-
ing drink), a blue-lit below-zero club serving
4 Sleeping vodka or fernet and Coke in ice glasses.
The gift shop sells handmade and sus-
Free backcountry campgrounds have one pit
tainable gifts crafted by Argentine artisans.
toilet. Some sites have dead wood for wind-
It also hosts international cinema events. It’s
breaks but fires are prohibited. Water is pure
6km from Calafate toward the national park.
as glacial melt; only wash downstream from
To get there, take the free hourly shuttle from
the campground and pack out all trash.
1 de Mayo between Av Libertador and Roca.
88 Getting There & Away Reserva Natural
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is just outside Laguna Nimez WILDLIFE RESERVE
El Chaltén, which is convenient if you’re driving (admission AR$100; h daylight hours) Prime
your own car; otherwise, most excursions offer avian habitat alongside the lakeshore north
transfers (AR$100 one way) in and out of the of town, with a self-guided trail and staffed
park; taxis cost more (AR$300). Casa Verde information hut with binocular
4 59
ESTANCIA EL CÓNDOR
A burly slice of heaven, this remote estancia (% in Buenos Aires 011-4735-7704, satellite phone
011-4152-5400; www.cielospatagonicos.com; per person casco incl meals & excursions US$220;
h Oct-Mar) sits tucked into the shores of Lago San Martín. A private nature reserve, tawny
steppe, mossy beech forest and frozen mountaintops comprise its 400 sq km.
Even for Patagonia this landscape seems oversized – from the massive turquoise
lake (known as O’Higgins on its Chilean side), to the 13 kinds of orchids and craggy cliffs
where condors wheel on the wind. Riding enthusiasts could do a week on horseback
without running out of fresh terrain; in addition, the adjoining mountain refuge of La
Nana provides a base camp even deeper in the wilderness. Trails are also apt for hiking,
though river crossings should always be made with a guide. A day trip to the condorera
(where condors nest) is a highlight.
The estancia occupies a curious footnote in Patagonian history. Its puesto (home-
stead) La Nana was home to an infamous Brit named Jimmy Radburn, who kidnapped a
Tehuelche woman named Juana (with her consent – she had already been sold off by her
Patago nia E
father to pay a gambling debt) and came to this ultra-remote spot at the turn of the 20th
century to raise a family. Currently La Nana is only accessible by a day-long hike or ride
from the main casco (ranch house).
Rates include all meals and excursions. Lodgings are comfortable but not luxuriant.
The casco has six rooms, each with a private bathroom, a large stone fireplace and a
small collection of literature on the region. Meals include fresh vegetables from the
I nlan
T o
l uCrs
greenhouse and meat from the ranch. Cheaper accommodations are at a more rustic
bunkhouse; send an email for options.
alafat
d Patag
Visitors can drive on their own or take a five-hour transfer from El Calafate (US$120),
with set departures on Monday and Friday. El Cóndor is located three hours from Tres
Lagos, 118km off RN 40, on the way to El Chaltén. There is no legal border crossing here.
e o nia
rental. It’s a great place to spot flamingos – the unexplored end of Parque Nacional Los
but watching birds from El Calafate’s shore- Glaciares. Small groups drive to Lago Roca
line on Lago Argentino can be just as good. with an expert multilingual guide to view
Glaciar Frias. The adventure option features
Centro de Interpretacíon Historico MUSEUM a four-hour hike, the culture option includes
(% 497799; www.museocalafate.com.ar; Av Brown & a traditional estancia asado (barbecue grill)
Bonarelli; admission AR$100; h 10am-8pm Sep-May, and off-hour visits to Glaciar Perito Moreno.
11am-5pm Jun-Aug) Small but informative, with
a skeleton mold of Austroraptor cabazai Caltur TOUR
(found nearby) and Patagonian history dis- (% 491368; www.caltur.com.ar; Libertador 1080)
plays. The friendly host invites museum-goers Specializes in El Chaltén tours and lodging
for a post-tour mate (a bitter ritual tea). packages.
T Tours Chaltén Travel TOUR

(% 492212; www.chaltentravel.com; Libertador 1174;
Some 40 travel agencies arrange excursions h 9am-9pm) Recommended tours to Glaciar
to Glaciar Perito Moreno and other local at- Perito Moreno, stopping for wildlife viewing
tractions, including fossil beds and stays at (binoculars provided); also specializes in RN
regional estancias, where you can hike, ride 40 trips. Outsources some excursions to Al-
horses or relax. Tour prices for Glaciar Perito ways Glaciers (www.alwaysglaciers.com).
Moreno don’t include the park entrance fee.
Ask agents and other travelers about added Overland Patagonia TOUR
benefits, such as extra stops, boat trips, bin- (% 491243, 492243; www.glaciar.com; glacier tour
oculars or multilingual guides. AR$640) Operates out of both Hostel del Gla-
ciar Libertador and Hostel del Glaciar Pio-
oGlaciares Sur ADVENTURE TOUR neros; organizes the alternative glacier trip
(% 02902-495050; www.glaciarsur.com; 9 de Julio to Glaciar Perito Moreno, which consists of
57; per person US$225-250) Get glacier stunned an estancia visit, a one-hour hike in the park
and skip the crowds with these day tours to and optional lake navigation (AR$250 extra).
4 60
El Calafate
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Patago nia E
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Enjoy! ADVENTURE TOUR mors that the biggest rainbow trout in the
(% 497722; www.enjoycalafate.com; Via Ferrata world lives here.
AR$580) A popular outfitter specializing in
adventure tours, with bilingual guides lead- 4 Sleeping
ing activities like climbing Cerro Roca and Though lodgings are abundant, popular of-
Via Ferrata (assisted ascent), rappelling ferings may book out well in advance. The
and ziplining. There’s no office – guests are
core high season is January to February, al-
picked up at their accommodations. Oper
though some places extend it from mid-Oc-
ations are based out of Estancia 25 de Mayo.
tober until April. Luxury hotels are being
Calafate Fishing FISHING added at a quick clip, though not all offer
(%496545; www.calafatefishing.com; Libertador the same standard. Look for deep discounts
1826; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Offers fun fly- in low season.
fishing trips to Lago Roca (half-day AR$1700) The Municipal Tourist Office has a com-
and Lago Strobbel, where you can test ru- plete list of cabañas and apartment hotels,
4 61
e 0 200 m Hostal Schilling GUESTHOUSE $
# 0 0.1 miles
E F (% 491453; http://hostalschilling.com; Paradelo 141;
dm US$25, s/d/tr with bathroom US$63/75/95, d
without bathroom US$60; W ) Good value and
centrally located, this friendly guesthouse is a
1 good choice for travelers. Much is due to the
family owners, Cecilia, Marcelo and Raimiro,
who look after guests with a cup of tea or help
with logistical planning. It also has multiple
Rosa
living rooms and cafe service, with hearty len-

til stew, if you don’t feel like eating out.
D ese ado
les
Los Antiguos
They can also help with reservations for
Monte Aymond Estancia El Cóndor.
28
Los L agos
2
rto
ÿ
#
America del Sur HOSTEL $
Pue
nza
pera (% 493525; www.americahostel.com.ar; Puerto De-
La Es án
10
an Juli seado 151; dm US$35, d/q US$97/153; iW ) This
# 33
ÿ to S backpacker favorite has a stylish lodge set-
# Puer
ú
Patago nia E
ting with views and heated floors. Doubles
are pleasant and uniform. There’s a well-
José Pantín
staffed and fun social scene, including night-

ly barbecues with salad buffet in high season.
13 3
#
S
I Keu Ken Hostel HOSTEL $
I nlan
S
#
ú # Park Entrance
(% 495175; www.patagoniaikeuken.com.ar; FM
lleeping
Gate
C alafat
# 37
ú Pontoriero 171; dm AR$23, cabin per person US$80;
#
ï
i W ) With helpful staff, artisan beer and a
d Patag
#
ú Tourist
42 Office pet sheep, this quirky hostel has proven pop-
ular with travelers. Features include inviting
Arr
e o nia
ÿ
# # 38
ú
common areas, a deck for lounging and first-
o
ÿ
# ÿ
#
yo
Ca 17 Lib Río Gallegos 4 rate barbecues (with amnesty for the pet
mp er
D
C
añ ta (320km)
ala
ad
el D do
r
sheep). Its location, near the top of a steep
fat
esi hill, offers views and a workout.

er
e
to Ju "
§
11
li
Fo
oA
rg Las Cabañitas CABIN $
mr
en
tin
en
o (%491118; www.lascabanitascalafate.com; Va-

os
ti
Ro
g
ca lentín Feilberg 218; 2-/3-person cabin US$84/105,

lle
s
ero
Ga
dm/d without bathroom AR$25/65; hAug-Jun;

ion
# 30
ÿ Alv
Río
are iW) A restful spot that has snug storybook

sP
s 5
Lo
# 18
ÿ A-frames with spiral staircases leading to
# 23
ÿ loft beds and apartments. The energetic
owner Gerardo also provides worthy meals,
E F lunch boxes and helpful information. Touch-
es include English lavender in the garden, a
barbecue area and guest cooking facilities.
which are the best deals for groups and fam-
ilies. Most hostels offer pickup from the bus Bla! Guesthouse HOSTEL $
terminal. (% 492220; www.blahostel.com; Espora 257; dm
US$20-25, d/tr US$80/95; W ) If you’re won-
Camping El Ovejero CAMPGROUND $ dering where all the hipsters are, check out
(% 493422; www.campingelovejero.com.ar; José this tiny, mellow design hostel. While dorms
Pantín 64; campsite per person US$9; i W ) are cramped, private rooms are comfortable,
Woodsy, well-kept (and slightly noisy) camp- although walls are on the thin side.
sites with spotless showers that have 24-
hour hot water. Locals boast that the on-site Hostel del Glaciar Pioneros HOSTEL $
restaurant is one of the best deals in town (% 491243; www.glaciar.com; Los Pioneros 251; dm
for grill food. Extras include private tables, US$17, s US$48-67, d US$62-73; h Nov-Mar; iW )
electricity and grills. It’s located by the creek A 15-minute walk from town, this sprawling,
just north of the bridge into town. renovated red house is one of the town’s most
long-standing hostels. Sociable, it includes
4 62
El Calafate
æ Sights 25 Los Sauces Casa Patagónica.................B2
1 Centro de Interpretacíon Historico .......D1 26 Madre Tierra ............................................D2
27 Miyazato Inn............................................. C1
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 28 Newenkelen.............................................. F2
2 Calafate Fishing ...................................... A3 29 Posada Karut Josh ..................................A4
3 Caltur........................................................ D3 30 South B&B................................................ E5
4 Chaltén Travel ......................................... D3
5 Glaciares Sur ........................................... D3 ú Eating
6 Hielo y Aventura...................................... D3 31 Buenos Cruces ........................................D2
7 Mar Patag................................................. D3 32 El Cucharón..............................................D3
8 Solo Patagonia S.A. ................................ D3 33 Esquina Varela ......................................... F2
34 La Anónima ..............................................D3
ÿ Sleeping 35 La Fonda del Parillero .............................D3
9 Albergue Lago Argentino ....................... D4 36 La Lechuza ...............................................C4
10 America del Sur........................................F2 37 La Tablita .................................................. E3
11 Bla! Guesthouse...................................... D2 38 María Brownies ........................................ F4
12 Calafate Hostel........................................ C3 39 Mi Rancho.................................................D3
13 Camping El Ovejero .................................E3 40 Panaderia Don Luis .................................B3
Patago nia E
14 Cauquenes de Nimez .............................. B1 41 Pura Vida ..................................................A4

15 Hospedaje Jorgito................................... D3 42 Viva la Pepa .............................................. E4
16 Hostal Schilling ....................................... D4
17 Hostel del Glaciar Libertador .................F4 û Drinking & Nightlife
18 Hostel del Glaciar Pioneros ....................F5 43 Chopen .....................................................B3
19 Hotel La Loma ......................................... D4 el ba'r................................................. (see 7)
I nlan
S lleeping
20 Hotel Michelangelo ................................. D3 44 Librobar ....................................................D3

C alafat
21 Hotel Posada Los Álamos...................... C3

22 I Keu Ken Hostel...................................... C5 ý Entertainment
d Patag
23 La Posada del Angel ................................E5 45 Don Diego de la Noche ...........................B4

24 Las Cabañitas.......................................... C4 46 La Toldería................................................C3
e o nia
comfortable common areas, snug dorms and Albergue Lago Argentino HOSTEL $
a small restaurant with homemade meals. (% 491423; lagoargentinohostel.com; Campaña del
Desierto 1050; dm/s/d US$26/85/95) Run by Es-
Calafate Hostel HOSTEL $
tela, who has been here for years, this pink
(% 492450; www.calafatehostels.com; Moyano property offers clean but squat basic dorms.
1226; dm/s/d/tr US$20/60/80/100; i W ) Best The more appealing annex across the street
suited to large groups, this mammoth log has attractive and quiet garden rooms ideal
cabin ends up feeling blander than the com- for couples. Provides good local information
petition. Double-bunk dorms are cozy, while and bike rentals. Close to the bus terminal.
the new annex features tidy brick doubles.
Hosteria La Estepa BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
Hostel del Glaciar Libertador HOSTEL $
(% 493551; www.hosterialaestepa.com; Libertador
(% 492492; www.glaciar.com; Libertador 587; 5310; s/d US$110/130, deluxe US$130/150; i W )
dm/d/tr/q US$22/92/109/123; iW ) The best Guests happily tuck into this snug, rustic
deals here are dorm bunks with thick covers. lodging with panoramic lake views and farm
Behind a Victorian facade, modern facilities antiquities. Of the 26 rooms, a handful have
include a top-floor kitchen, radiant floor heat- water views; the deluxe versions have small
ing, computers and a spacious common area living areas. A sprawling 2nd-floor social
with a plasma TV glued to sports channels. area is strewn with regional maps and board
Breakfast is extra for dorm users (AR$84). games. The restaurant serves homemade
Hospedaje Jorgito GUESTHOUSE $ meals. It’s 5km west of the town center, to-
(% 491323; Moyano 943; per person r with/without ward the national park.
bathroom US$13/10) The lovely Señora Vir- Cauquenes de Nimez B&B $$
ginia has received generations of travelers (% 492306; www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar; Calle
in her modest home, decorated with vin- 303, No 79; d/tr US$98/120; aW ) S Both
tage Barbies, doilies and synthetic flowers. modern and rustic, Gabriel’s welcoming
Rooms vary in size but are bright and well two-story lodge offers views of flamingos
kept. Guests can use the large kitchen. on the lake (from November through sum-
463
mer). Smart rooms decorated with corduroy only some. It’s attentive and family run, with
duvets and nature photography also feature a trio of toy poodles standing guard.
lock boxes and TVs. Personalized attention is
a plus, as is the complimentary tea time with Hotel Michelangelo HOTEL $$
lavender muffins, and free bikes (donations (% 491045; www.michelangelohotel.com.ar; Moyano

support the nature reserve). 1020; d/tr US$128/156; W ) Tour groups favor
this Swiss-chalet-style lodging in the center of
Posada Karut Josh B&B $$ town. Recently renovated, it has a chic lobby
(% 496444; www.posadakarutjosh.com.ar; Calle and living area with stone fixtures and low
12, No 1882, Barrio Bahía Redonda; d US$75) Run lighting. Guest rooms have tasteful, muted
by an Italian-Argentine couple, this peaceful colors, high ceilings and full amenities.
aluminum-sided B&B features big, bright
rooms and a lovely garden with lake views. oMadre Tierra BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Breakfast is abundant and satisfying meals (% 498880; www.madretierrapatagonia.com; 9 de

(AR$85) are also available. Julio 239; d US$165) A beaut wrapped in Ande-
an textiles and rustic simplicity. The biggest
Miyazato Inn B&B $$ draw is the 2nd-floor living room, with com-
(% 491953; www.miyazatoinn.com; Egidio Feruglio fy sofas and a blazing woodstove on chilly
150, Las Chacras; s/d US$120/150; i ) Resem-
Patago nia E
days. The house has just seven rooms, out-
bling a simple Japanese inn, this elegant fitted with oversized dressers and a clean,
B&B wins points for personalized service. modern sensibility. It’s run by longtime area
Breakfast include sweets and medialu guides Natacha and Mariano who also offer
nas (pastries), and excursionists get a hot 4WD tours and transfers.
thermos of coffee or tea to go. It’s a five-
I nlan
minute walk away from the center of town. Los Sauces Casa Patagónica
latCing
HOTEL $$$
(% 495854; www.casalossauces.com; Los Gau-
alafat
Newenkelen GUESTHOUSE $$ chos 1352; d/ste from US$290/360; i W ) With
d Patag
(% 493943; www.newenkelenposada.com.ar; Puerto an award-winning restaurant, full spa and
Deseado 223; d/tr US$97/130; iW ) Perched on a spacious, immaculately manicured grounds
e o nia
hill above town, this intimate option features where exotic birds roam and staff members
six immaculate brick rooms with tasteful bed- zip by in golf carts, Los Sauces feels less
ding, tea in rooms and mountain views. hotel than luxury compound. The varied
monochromatic interiors are gorgeous, with
La Posada del Angel GUESTHOUSE $$
first-class beds, huge flat-screen TVs and
(% 495025; posadadelangelcalafate.com; Madre
stone bathrooms with Jacuzzis.
Teresa de Calcutta 909; d/q US$90/120; W ) Ma-
ture travelers or those who want a homey Hotel Posada Los Álamos RESORT $$$
touch will appreciate this comfortable brick (% 491144; www.posadalosalamos.com; Moyano
family home with just a few rooms for 1355; s/d US$241/264; i W ) Considering the
guests, as well as ample bathrooms, immac- amenities, prices are pretty reasonable at
ulate shared spaces and adorable pets. It’s Calafate’s original resort. There are lush
uphill from the town center. rooms, overstuffed sofas, spectacular gar-
dens, tennis courts, putting greens and a
Hotel La Loma INN $$
spa. It’s enough to make you almost forget
(% 491016; www.lalomahotel.com; Roca 849; dm
about seeing Glaciar Perito Moreno.
US$30, r US$91-137; h Jul-May; W s ) Colonial
furnishings and a lovely rock garden en-
hance this ranch-style retreat with chan-
5 Eating
deliers and antiques in creaky hallways. For picnic provisions, small shops selling
Superior rooms are spacious and bright, fresh bread, fine cheeses, sweets and wine
though dorms run toward monastic. Rates are found on the side streets perpendicular
vary depending on views and room quality. to Libertador. Head to La Anónima (cnr Lib-
ertador & Perito Moreno; h 9am-10pm) for cheap
South B&B B&B $$ takeout and groceries.
(% 489555; www.southbb.com.ar; Av Juan Domingo
Perón 1016; d/tr US$100/150; h Oct-May; W ) You Esquina Varela ARGENTINE $
would need a drone to get views of Lago Ar- (% 490666; Puerto Deseado 22; mains AR$85-110;
gentino to beat those of this enormous hill- h 7pm-late) Marrying good and cheap, this
side hotel converted to a large B&B. Rooms corrugated-tin eatery is a find in expensive
are spacious and bright, though wi-fi reaches Calafate. Start with some fried calamari
464
AGUAS ARRIBA
Set on the remote Lago del Desierto by the Chilean border, this exclusive nature lodge
(% in Buenos Aires 11-15-6134-8452; www.aguasarribalodge.com; Lago del Desierto; per person
per day incl meals & activities US$430) S provides a wonderous retreat into a silent lenga
forest frequented by endangered huemul (Andean deer). The lodge itself has only
five guest rooms and decks facing the massive Glacier Vespignani, with distant views
of Cerro Fitz Roy on a clear day. There’s guided fly-fishing and hiking on an extensive
trail system with waterfalls, lookouts and secluded beaches. Green practices include
composting, recycling and sustainable building, but it’s made a true haven by the warm
welcome from owners Pato and Ivor. Just getting there takes a while; guests arrive by
private transfer and boat. A three-night stay is ideal. For ages 12 and up.
and beer. Filling lamb stew, steak and locro rare treat of Argentine home cooking, this
grace a short menu with vegetarian options. offbeat, low-lit eatery is a must. Its longtime
There’s also live music. owners are found cooking up buttery spiced
Patago nia E
chicken pot pies and filling wine glasses. For

La Fonda del Parillero PARRILLA $
vegetarians, brown rice and wok veggies or
(9 de Julio 29; mains AR$45-180; h 10am-11pm) various salads are satisfying. Don’t skip the
Skip the pretension and dine at this busy decadent chocolate brownie with ice cream,
grill with a few sidewalk tables and takeout, steeped in warm berry sauce. Reserve ahead.
a boon for late-night snacking. In addition
I nlan
latCing
to lamb steaks, it also offers homemade pas- La Tablita PARRILLA $$

alafat
tas, pies and a variety of empanadas. (% 491065; www.la-tablita.com.ar; Rosales 24;

d Patag
mains AR$100-150; h noon-3:30pm & 7pm-

Viva la Pepa CAFE $
midnight) Steak and spit-roasted lamb are the
(% 491880; Amado 833; mains AR$60-120; h noon- stars at this satisfying parrilla, popular be-
e o nia
9pm Mon-Sat) Decked out in children’s draw- yond measure for good reason. For average
ings, this cheerful cafe specializes in crepes, appetites a half-steak will do, rounded out
but also offers great sandwiches with home- with a good malbec, fresh salad or garlic fries.
made bread (try the chicken with apple and
blue cheese), fresh juice and gourds of mate. El Cucharón ARGENTINE $$
(% 495315; 9 de Julio 145; mains AR$130-230;
María Brownies DESSERTS $
h noon-3pm & 8-11pm) This sophisticated
(% 496817; Libertador 524; snacks AR$60; h 3:30- eatery, tucked away in a small space a few
8:30pm Wed-Mon) This adorable teahouse is blocks off the main street, is a relatively un-
your go-to spot for homemade brownies, discovered gem and an excellent place to
tart lemon pie and scones. try the regional classic cazuela de cordero
Panaderia Don Luis BAKERY $ (lamb stew). The trout with lemon sauce
(Av Libertador 2421; snacks AR$10; h 7am-9pm) and grilled vegetables is delicious, too.
Medialunas and much more at this enor- La Lechuza PIZZA $$
mous bakery. (Libertador 1301; mains AR$93-220; h noon-3pm
oBuenos Cruces ARGENTINE $$
& 6:30-11:30pm) Serves a classic selection
(% 492698; Espora 237; mains AR$130-220; h 7- of empanadas, salads and pizza on round
11pm Mon-Sat) The new sensation in town is wooden plates – try the sheep cheese and
this tiny family-run enterprise bringing a olive pizza with a local microbrew.
twist to Argentine classics. Start with a warm oMi Rancho ARGENTINE $$$
beet salad with balsamic reduction. The (% 490540; Moyano 1089; mains AR$160-230;
nut-crusted trout is both enormous and satis- h noon-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight) Inspired
fying, served on a bed of risotto, as are baked and intimate, with the owners themselves
raviolis crisped at the edge and bubbling with cooking and serving oversized osso buco,
Roquefort cheese. With good service. delicious braided pastas stuffed with king
Pura Vida ARGENTINE $$ crab, divine salads and sweetbreads with
(% 493356; Libertador 1876; mains AR$90-185; wilted spinach on toast. For dessert, choco-
h 7:30-11:30pm Thu-Tue; v ) Featuring the lat fondant or passion fruit semifreddo are
465
both worth the calorie hit, and more. In a TOURIST INFORMATION
tiny brick pioneer house with space for few. ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; % 491004; cnr
Reserve a few days ahead. 1 de Mayo & Roca) Argentina’s auto club; good
source for provincial road maps.
6 Drinking & Nightlife Municipal Tourist Office (% 491090, 491466;
Chopen PUB
www.elcalafate.tur.ar; Av Libertador 1411;
h 8am-8pm) Has town maps and general
(Cervecería Artisanal; % 249-6096; Libertador
information. There’s also a kiosk at the bus
1630; h 8pm-2am) After a day in the wind and terminal (% 491090; www.elcalafate.gov.ar; cnr
sun, this snug brewpub is a godsend. Beer is Libertador & Rosales; h 8am-8pm); both have
brewed on-site and the tiny kitchen churns some English-speaking staff.
out heaping trays of meats and cheeses and National Park Office (% 491545; Libertador
spicy beef empanadas. 1302; h 8am-8pm Dec-Apr, to 6pm May-Nov)
Offers brochures and a decent map of Parque
Librobar PUB
Nacional Los Glaciares. It’s best to get informa-
(Libertador 1015; h 10am-3am; W ) Upstairs in tion here before reaching the park.
the gnome village, this hip bookshop-bar
serves coffee, bottled beers and pricey TRAVEL AGENCIES
cocktails. Peruse the oversized photography Most agents deal exclusively with nearby excur-
Patago nia E
books on Patagonian wildlife or bring your sions and are unhelpful for other areas.
laptop and take advantage of the free wi-fi. Tiempo Libre (% 491207; www.tiempolibre
viajes.com.ar; Gregores 1294) Books flights.
el ba’r CAFE
(9 de Julio s/n; h 9am-2pm) This trendy patio 88 Getting There & Away
cafe is the hot spot for you and your sweater-
I nlan
Drin
l C alafat
clad puppy to order espresso, submarinos AIR
(hot milk with melted chocolate bar), green The modern Aeropuerto El Calafate is 23km
kd
east of town off RP 11; the departure tax is
ing
tea, gluten-free snacks or sandwiches (mains
Patag
AR$80 to AR$115). US$38.
& eN ig
The following rates are one way. Aerolíneas
3 Entertainment Argentinas (% 492816, 492814; Liberta-
o nia
dor 1361) flies daily to Bariloche or Esquel
h t life
La Toldería LIVE MUSIC
(from AR$2491), Ushuaia (AR$1200), Trelew
(% 491443; www.facebook.com/LaTolderia; Liber- (AR$4224), and Aeroparque and Ezeiza in Bue-
tador 1177; h noon-4am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri-Sun) nos Aires (from AR$1930).
This petite storefront opens its doors to danc- LADE (% 491262; Jean Mermoz 168) flies a few
ing and live acts at night; it’s probably the times a week to Río Gallegos (AR$665), Como-
best spot to try if you’re feeling boisterous. doro Rivadavia (AR$984), Ushuaia and Buenos
Aires. LAN (% 495548; 9 de Julio 57) flies to
Don Diego de la Noche LIVE MUSIC Ushuaia weekly.
(Libertador 1603; h 8pm-late) This perennial
favorite serves dinner and features live mu- BUS
sic such as tango, guitar and folklórica (folk El Calafate’s hilltop bus terminal (Roca s/n) is
music). easily reached by a pedestrian staircase from
the corner of Libertador and 9 de Julio. Book
ahead in high season, as outbound seats can be
88 Information in short supply.
MEDICAL SERVICES For Río Gallegos, buses go four times daily;
Hospital Municipal Dr José Formenti contact Taqsa/Marga (% 491843) or Andes-
(% 491001; Roca 1487) mar (% 494250). Connections to Bariloche and
Ushuaia may require leaving in the middle of the
MONEY night and a change of buses in Río Gallegos.
Withdraw your cash before the weekend rush – it For El Chaltén, buses leave daily at 8am, 2pm
isn’t uncommon for ATMs to run out on Sundays. and 6pm. Both Caltur (% 491368; www.caltur.
If you are headed to El Chaltén, consider getting com.ar; Libertador 1080) and Chaltén Travel
extra cash here. (p459) go to El Chaltén and drive the RN 40 to
Banco Santa Cruz (Libertador 1285) Changes Bariloche (AR$2190, two days) in summer.
traveler’s checks and has an ATM. For Puerto Natales, Chile, Cootra (% 491444)
and Turismo Zahhj (% 491631) depart at 8am
POST
and 8:30am daily (three times weekly in low
Post Office (Libertador 1133) season), crossing the border at Cerro Castillo,
4 66
where it may be possible to connect to Torres they accumulate as snow. Over millennia,
del Paine. under tremendous weight, this snow has
recrystallized into ice and flowed slowly
Buses from El Calafate
eastward. The 1600-sq-km trough of Lago
Argentino, the country’s largest body of
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
water, is evidence that glaciers were once far
Bariloche 1740-2190 14/28 summer/ more extensive than today.
winter While most of the world’s glaciers are re-
El Chaltén 350 3½ ceding, Glaciar Perito Moreno is considered
Puerto Natales 475 5 ‘stable.’ Regardless, 17 times between 1917
(Chile) and 2006, as the glacier has advanced, it has
Río Gallegos 360 4
dammed the Brazo Rico (Rico Arm) of Lago
Argentino, causing the water to rise. Several
times the melting ice below has been unable
88 Getting Around to support the weight of the water behind it
and the dam has collapsed in an explosion of
Airport shuttle Ves Patagonia (% 494355; www.
water and ice. To be present when this spec-
vespatagonia.com) offers door-to-door service
tacular cataclysm occurs is unforgettable.
Patago nia A
(one way AR$120). There are several car-rental

agencies at the airport. Localiza (% 491398; Glaciar Perito Moreno is as much an au-
www.localiza.com.ar; Libertador 687; h 9am- ditory as a visual experience when icebergs
8pm) and Servi Car (% 492541; www.servi4x4. calve and collapse into the Canal de los Tém-
com.ar; Libertador 695; h 9:30am-noon & panos (Iceberg Channel). This natural-born
4-8pm Mon-Sat) offer car rentals from conven- tourist attraction at Península de Magallanes
I nlan
G
ient downtown offices. is close enough to guarantee great views, but

reo
t tuing
Renting a bike is an excellent way to get a feel far enough away to be safe. A series of steel
for the area and cruise the dirt roads by the lake.
nddPatag
catwalks (almost 4000m total) and vantage

Albergue Lago Argentino (p462) offers rentals. points allow visitors to see, hear and pho-
EAlr C
tograph the glacier. Sun hits its face in the

oalafat
morning and the glacier’s appearance chang-

uonnia
A round El Calafate es as the day progresses and shadows shift.

d
From El Calafate, paved RN 40 cuts southeast There is a free shuttle from the parking
across vast steppe for 95km, then jogs south area to the catwalks. A closed refugio with
e
at El Cerrito and turns to gravel. Staying on glass walls allows for glacier viewing in
paved RP 5 means a slow-going, five-hour, bad weather; there’s also a snack bar and
224km bore of a trip southeast to Río Galle- two-story restaurant Nativos, serving cap-
gos. From there, paved RP 7 connects back to puccinos and sandwiches to sightseers. If
RN 40 for the Chilean border crossing at Cer- you bring a picnic, remember that it is dif-
ro Castillo–Cancha Carrera, Parque Nacional ficult and costly to remove trash from the
Torres del Paine and Puerto Natales. area – please pack yours out.
For student rates, visitors must have a
student ID. The main gateway town to the
Parque Nacional Los park’s southern sector, El Calafate, is 80km
east of the glacier by road. It’s where you’ll
Glaciares (South) find most operators for tours and activities.
Among Earth’s most dynamic and accessi-
ble ice fields, Glaciar Perito Moreno is the 2 Activities
stunning centerpiece of the southern sector
of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (admis-
sion AR$260, collected after 8am). It’s 30km long, 2 Glaciar Perito Moreno
5km wide and 60m high, but what makes it Beyond a short walk that parallels the shore-
exceptional in the world of ice is its constant line at the boat dock and climbs to the look-
advance – it creeps forward up to 2m per day, out area, there are no trails in this sector of
causing building-sized icebergs to calve from the park accessible without boat transporta-
its face. Watching the glacier is a sedentary tion. These nautical excursions allow you to
park experience that manages to be thrilling. sense the magnitude of Glaciar Perito Mo
The glacier formed as a low gap in the An- reno, still from a safe distance. Tours do not
des allowed moisture-laden Pacific storms include transfers to Parque Nacional Los Gla-
to drop their loads east of the divide, where ciares (AR$130 roundtrip) and park entry fee.
467
Around El Calafate & PN Los Glaciares (South) 0

0
10 km
5 miles
Glaciar Hostería Estancia

Upsala Estancia
Cristina Helsingfors (124km);
(5km) El Chaltén (160km)
Gla assiz
Ag
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Bra
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Up
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On
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Br
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iar
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Parque
Glaciar Nacional Argentino
Spegazzini Los Glaciares Puerto
Cana Bandera
l de Hosteria La RP
11
Península de RP
8 RP Estepa
los Tém
Magallanes 11
Eolo Glaciarium
Park Ranger El Calafate
ayo
Office Mitre RP
Patago nia Parq

15
Glaciar M
ciar Puerto Bajo Picnic Entrance

Gla ghino
panos
de las Area Gate

Ame Sombras
RP
60
o ico ca 15
rit zo R o
RP
Pe Bra ago R
c iar reno L Cerro Cristal
a
Gl Mo Cerro Adventure (1286m)
I nlan
A
Domes ARGENTINA
c t ivi
Moreno
Camping Lago Roca
Sur
Glacier Lookout;
Estancia
udte ies
Puerto Bajo
Brazo
Restaurant Nibepo Aike
Patag
N aci oonal
Glaciar Lago
Frias Frias
nia L o s G laciares ( S o u t h )
CHILE
Hielo y Aventura ICE TREKKING, CRUISE

(% 02902-492205, 02902-492094; www.hieloyaven 2 Glaciar Upsala & Lago Onelli
tura.com; Libertador 935, El Calafate) Convention- Glaciar Upsala – a huge 595 sq km, 60km
al cruise Safari Nautico (AR$120, one hour) long and 4km wide in parts – can be ad-
tours Brazo Rico, Lago Argentino and the mired for its monumental dimensions
south side of Canal de los Témpanos. Catama- alongside the strange and graceful forms of
rans crammed with up to 130 passengers leave the nearby icebergs. The downside is that it
hourly between 10:30am and 4:30pm from can only be enjoyed from the crowded deck
Puerto Bajo de las Sombras. If it’s busy, buy of a massive catamaran: just nature, you and
tickets in advance for afternoon departures. 300 of your closest friends.
To hike on the glacier, try minitrekking On an extension of the Brazo Norte
(AR$1200, under two hours on ice), or (North Arm) of Lago Argentino, it’s accessi-
the longer and more demanding Big Ice ble by launch from Puerto Punta Bandera,
(AR$2200, four hours on ice). Both involve 45km west of El Calafate by RP 11 and RP
a quick boat ride from Puerto Bajo de las 8. Not included in cruise prices is the bus
Sombras, a walk through lenga forests, transfer (approximately AR$50) from El
a chat on glaciology and then an ice walk Calafate.
using crampons. Children under eight are
not allowed; reserve ahead and bring your Solo Patagonia S.A. CRUISE
own food. Don’t forget rain gear: it’s often (% 02902-491115; www.solopatagonia.com; Liber-
snowing around the glacier and you might tador 867, El Calafate) Offers the Rios de Hielo
get wet and cold quickly on the boat deck. Express (AR$1350) from Puerto Punta
Transfers cost extra (AR$300). Bandera, visiting Glaciar Upsala, Glaciar
468
ROMULO REJON/GETTY IMAGES ©

4 69
Extreme
RACHEL LEWIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Patagonia
More than 130 years ago, Lady Florence
Dixie ditched high society to ride horses
across the Patagonian steppe. Today, you
can still fulfill a dream of scaling unnamed
peaks, paddling alongside sea lions or
tracing a glacier’s edge.
Horseback Riding
Estancias (ranches; p131) remind us how
good it is to ride without fences, to feel
the heat of a campfire and to sleep under
the stars.
Ice Climbing
Adrenaline, check. Near El Chaltén,
ecocamps help you tackle the surreal
frozen terrain in Parque Nacional Los
Glaciares (p466), where good guiding
services make it accessible even to
amateurs.
Glacier Trekking
More than a hike, it’s a full-immersion
aesthetic experience. Strap on crampons
and explore these living sculptures
MARTIN HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES ©
in Torres del Paine (p483) or Parque

Nacional Los Glaciares (p455 and p466).
Diving
Clear waters, nearby shipwrecks and cool
marine life make Península Valdés (p410)
the diving capital of Argentina, with the
best visibility in August.
Sea Kayaking
Paddle with penguins and Commerson’s
dolphins in Ría Deseado (p428) and Bahía
Bustamante (p425), or play alongside sea
lions near Península Valdés (p410).
Driving Ruta Nacional 40

Watch herds of dusky guanaco, or the
slow approach of shimmering peaks; the
sky was never bluer or bigger than on
this remote road (p438), an icon of slow
travel that flanks the Andes.
Clockwise from top left

1. Glacier trekking, Glaciar Perito Moreno (p466)
2. Ice climbing
3. Horseback riding
470
Spegazzini and Glaciar Perito Moreno. Cabalgatas del Glaciar HORSEBACK RIDING
Weather may alter the route. Transfers from (% 495447; www.cabalgatasdelglaciar.com; full day
El Calafate extra (AR$300). Meals are expen- AR$900) Day and multiday riding or trek-
sive, but you can bring your own. king trips with glacier panoramas to Lago
Roca and Paso Zamora on the Chilean bor-
Mar Patag CRUISE
der. Also available through Caltur.
(% 02902-492118; www.crucerosmarpatag.com; 9
de Julio 57, Office 4, El Calafate; day cruise US$315;
h 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7-11am & 5-9pm Sat & Sun)
4 Sleeping & Eating
Luxury cruises with a chef serving gourmet oCamping Lago Roca CAMPGROUND $
meals. The day trip leaves from the private (% 02902-499500; www.losglaciares.com/camping
port of La Soledad and visits Glaciar Upsa- lagoroca; per person US$15, cabin dm per 2/4
la, with a four-course meal served on board. people US$63/95) This full-service camp-
The three-day cruise (from US$1680 per ground with restaurant-bar, located a few
person, double occupancy) leaves five times kilometers past the education camp, makes
per month and also visits glaciers Mayo and an excellent adventure base. The clean
Perito Moreno. Transfers from El Calafate concrete-walled dorms provide a snug alter
not included (US$30). native to camping. Hiking trails abound,
Patago nia Parq
and the center rents fishing equipment

and bikes and coordinates horseback riding
2 Lago Roca at the nearby Estancia Nibepo Aike.
The serene south arm of Lago Argentino,
with lakeshore forests and mountains, fea- oEstancia Cristina ESTANCIA $$$
tures good hikes and pleasant camping. Es (% 02902-491133, in Buenos Aires 011-4803-7352;
I nlan
S
www.estanciacristina.com; d 2 nights incl full board

leeping
tancia accommodations occupy this section

of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, where & activities US$1145; h Oct-Apr) Locals in the
ude Patag
most visitors rarely travel. No entrance fee is know say the most outstanding trekking in
the region is right here. Lodging is in bright,
N aci
charged. For transportation, contact Caltur.

modern cabins with expansive views. A
& Eo
Cerro Cristal HIKING visit includes guided activities and boating

at
onal
A rugged but rewarding 3½-hour hike, with to Glaciar Upsala. Accessible by boat from
nia
ingL o s G laciares ( S o u t h )
views of Glaciar Perito Moreno and the Tor- Puerto Punta Bandera, off the northern arm
res del Paine on clear days. The trail begins of Lago Argentino.
at the education camp at La Jerónima, just
before the Camping Lago Roca entrance, Hostería Estancia Helsingfors ESTANCIA $$$
55km southwest of El Calafate along RP 15. (% satellite phone 011-5277-0195; www.helsingfors.
com.ar; per person incl full board, transfer & activities
THE STORY OF GLACIERS

Ribbons of ice, stretched flat in sheets or sculpted by weather and fissured by pressure,
glaciers have a raw magnificence that is mind-boggling to behold.
As snow falls on the accumulation area, it compacts to ice. The river of ice is slugged
forward by gravity, which deforms its layers as it moves. When the glacier surges
downhill, melted ice mixes with rock and soil on the bottom, grinding it into a lubricant
that keeps pushing the glacier along. At the same time, debris from the crushed rock
is forced to the sides of the glacier, creating features called moraines. Movement also
causes cracks and deformities called crevasses.
The ablation area is where the glacier melts. When accumulation outpaces melting at the
ablation area, the glacier advances; when there’s more melting or evaporation, the glacier
recedes. Since 1980 global warming has contributed greatly to widespread glacial retreat.
Another marvel of glaciers is their hue. What makes some blue? Wavelengths and
air bubbles. The more compact the ice, the longer the path that light has to travel and
the bluer the ice appears. Air bubbles in uncompacted areas absorb long wavelengths
of white light so we see white. When glaciers calve into lakes, they dump a ‘glacial flour’
comprised of ground-up rock that gives the water a milky, grayish color. This same sedi
ment remains unsettled in some lakes and diffracts the sun’s light, creating a stunning
palette of turquoise, pale mint and azure.
47 1
US$385; h Oct-Apr) The simply stunning loca- CHILEAN PATAGONIA
tion ogling Cerro Fitz Roy from Lago Viedma
makes for lots of love-at-first-sight impres- Rugged seascapes rimmed with glacial
sions. Intimate and welcoming, this former peaks, the stunning massifs of Torres del
Finnish pioneer ranch is a highly regarded Paine and howling steppe characterize the
luxury destination, though it cultivates a re- other side of the Andes. Once you come this
laxed, unpretentious ambience. Guests pass far, it is well worth crossing the border. Chil-
the time on scenic but demanding mountain ean Patagonia consists of the isolated Aisén
treks, rides and visits to Glaciar Viedma. and Magallanes regions, separated by the
Transfers are made on Tuesday, Thurs- southern continental ice field. This area cov-
day and Saturday, otherwise you can or- ers Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and Parque
der a chartered van. It’s on Lago Viedma’s Nacional Torres del Paine. For in-depth
southern shore, 170km from El Chaltén and coverage of Chile, pick up Lonely Planet’s
180km from El Calafate. Chile & Easter Island.
Most nationals of countries that have
Estancia Nibepo Aike ESTANCIA $$$ diplomatic relations with Chile don’t need a
(% 02902-492797, in Buenos Aires 011-5272-0341; visa. Upon entering, customs officials issue a
www.nibepoaike.com.ar; RP 15, Km60; per per- tourist card, valid for 90 days and renewable
Patago nia P
son with d occupancy, full board & activities from for another 90; authorities take it seriously,
US$220; h Oct-Apr; W ) This Croatian pioneer so guard your card closely to avoid the has-
ranch, still a working cattle ranch, offers the sle of replacing it.
usual assortment of estancia highlights, in- Temperature-sensitive travelers will soon
cluding demonstrations and horseback rid- notice a difference after leaving energy-
Cu
G
ing with bilingual guides. Rooms are simply rich Argentina: in public areas and budget
h
e tn
lovely and high-quality photos give a sense accommodations central heating is rare;
ilean
tta
of the regional history. Guests can also ex- warmer clothing is the norm indoors.
ing
plore the surroundings on two wheels from US cash is not widely accepted. Prices
A renas
the bicycle stash. Transfers to and from El here are given in Chilean pesos (CH$), ex-
Patag
T h ereo&nia
Calafate are included. cept where hotels and tours list their prices
in US dollars.
Eolo HOTEL $$$
(% in Buenos Aires 011-4700-0075; www.eolo.com.
Away
ar; RP 11; s/d incl full board from US$770/950; s )
Ringed by miles of Patagonian steppe, this
Punta Arenas
% 061 / POP 130,136
luxury Relais & Chateaux property leaves the
rustic life outside the double-glass windows. A sprawling metropolis on the edge of the
Guests first see an interior courtyard filled Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas defies easy
with lavender. There are 17 tasteful guest definition. Today’s Punta Arenas is a conflu-
rooms, a sauna, small pool and spa services. ence of the ruddy and the grand, witnessed
Beautiful antique estancia furniture and a in the elaborate wool-boom mansions, and
collection of old regional maps and publica- port renovations contrasted with windblown
tions set the mood. Transfer included. litter and urban sprawl. Visitors will find it
the most convenient base to travel around
Adventure Domes CAMPGROUND $$$ the remote Magallanes region, with good
(% 02962-493185; adventure-domes.com; per per- traveler services. Watch for more cruise-ship
son US$430) Reviews have been mixed for this passengers and trekkers to replace the ex-
all-inclusive nature camp, which features plorers, sealers and sailors of yesterday at the
hikes and ice trekking on the glacier and barstools – but save a spot for the old guard.
overnights in domes with comfortable beds, Founded in 1848 as a penal settlement
hot-water showers and all meals (lunch box- and military garrison, Punta Arenas was
es for day trips). Provides transfers. conveniently situated for ships headed to
Alta California during the gold rush. The
88 Getting There & Away economy took off in the late 19th century,
Glaciar Perito Moreno is 80km west of El Calafate after the territorial governor authorized the
via paved RP 11, passing through the breathtak- purchase of 300 pure-bred sheep from the
ing scenery around Lago Argentino. Bus tours Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas). This ex-
(AR$450 roundtrip) are frequent in summer. periment encouraged sheep farming and, by
Buses leave El Calafate in the early morning and the turn of the century, nearly two million
afternoon, returning around noon and 7pm. grazed the territory.
Tierra del Fuego

Includes  Why Go?
Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . 493 The southernmost extreme of the Americas, this windswept
Parque Nacional archipelago is as alluring as it is moody – at turns beautiful,
Tierra del Fuego. . . . . 508 ancient and strange. Travelers who first came for the ends-
Tolhuin & of-the-earth novelty discover a destination that’s far more
Lago Fagnano. . . . . . . . 511 complex than these bragging rights. Intrigue still remains
Río Grande. . . . . . . . . . 512 in a past storied with shipwrecks, native peoples and failed
Puerto Williams missions. In Tierra del Fuego, nature is writ bold and reck-
(Chile) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513 less, from the scoured plains, rusted peat bogs and mossy
lenga forests to the snowy ranges above the Beagle Channel.
While distant and isolated, Tierra del Fuego is by no
means cut off from the mainland, though the Argentine half
is far more developed than its Chilean counterpart. Ports
Best Places buzz with commerce and oil refineries prosper while adven-
to Eat ture seekers descend in droves to fly-fish, hike and start Ant-
¨¨Kalma Resto (p506)
arctic cruises. Shared with Chile, this archipelago features
one large island, Isla Grande, Chile’s Isla Navarino and many
¨¨Kaupé (p506) smaller uninhabited ones.
¨¨María Lola Restó (p506)
¨¨Chiko (p506)
¨¨Don Peppone (p513) When to Go
Ushuaia
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
Best Places 40/104 10/250
to Stay 30/86 8/200
20/68 6/150
¨¨Galeazzi-Basily B&B
(p501) 10/50 4/100
¨Äntarctica Hostel (p501) 0/32 2/50
¨Ëstancia Las Hijas -10/14 0

J F M A M J J A S O N D
(p512)
¨¨Hostería Yendegaia Nov–Mar Warm- Mid-Nov– Jul–Sep Optimal
(p516) est months, Mid-Apr Fly- for skiing, snow-
¨¨Los Cauquenes Resort & best for hiking, fishing season. boarding or dog
penguin-watching sledding.
Spa (p503)
and estancia
(ranch) visits.
4 93
88 Getting There & Around History
The most common overland route from Patago- In 1870 the British-based South American
nia is via the ferry crossing at Punta Delgada Missionary Society set its sights on the Yah-
(Primera Angostura; % +(56) 61-2728100; www. gan (or Yámana), a nomadic tribe whose
tabsa.cl; per car/passenger CH$15,000/1700; members faced brutal weather conditions
h daylight hours, 20min), Chile. Unlike the rest almost entirely naked – they didn’t have any
of Argentina, Tierra del Fuego doesn’t have permanent shelter to keep clothing dry, and
designated provincial highways but secondary
believed that the natural oil of their skin
roads known as rutas complementarias, modified
by a lowercase letter. These roads are referred was better protection than soaking wet ani-
to as ‘RC-a,’ for example. mal fur. Charles Darwin branded them ‘the
If renting a car in mainland Argentina, be lowest form of humanity on earth.’ Mission-
aware that you must pass through Chile a couple ary Thomas Bridges didn’t agree. After years
of times to reach Tierra del Fuego. This requires among them, he created a Yahgan-English
special documents, special attention to banned dictionary in the late 19th century, deeming
items (mainly fruit, dairy products, meat and their language complex and subtle.
seeds) and additional international insurance The mission made Ushuaia its first per-
coverage. Most car-rental agencies can arrange manent Fuegian outpost, but the Yahgan,
the paperwork with advance notice. who had survived 6000 years without con-
At the time of writing, Chile was building an tact, were vulnerable to foreign-brought
alternate road to the southern end of the island. illnesses and faced increasing infringement
It currently links with Lago Fagnano, but a 4WD by sealers, settlers and gold prospectors.
vehicle is required. Four Yámana, including a teenager dubbed
Visitors can fly into Río Grande or Ushuaia. ‘Jimmy Button,’ were kidnapped by the naval
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego U
Buses take the ferry from Chile’s Punta Delgada; captain Robert Fitz Roy and shipped back to
all pass through Río Grande before reaching England to be educated and paraded around
Ushuaia.
as examples of gentrified savages. One died
of disease. After months of public criticism,
Fitz Roy agreed to return the rest to their
Ushuaia homeland.
% 02901 / POP 57,000
The tribe’s legacy is now reduced to shell
A busy port and adventure hub, Ushuaia is mounds, Thomas Bridges’ famous diction-
Gs
a sliver of steep streets and jumbled build- ary and Jimmy Button souvenirs. At the
e tt
h ua
ings below the snowcapped Martial Range. time of writing, one elderly Yámana woman
Here the Andes meet the southern ocean in
i ng
was still alive on Isla Navarino, the only na-
i a T h e r e & A roun d
a sharp skid, making way for the city before tive speaker of the language.
reaching a sea of lapping currents. Between 1884 and 1947 the city became
It’s a location matched by few, and a penal colony, incarcerating many notori-
chest-beating Ushuaia takes full advantage ous criminals and political prisoners, both
of its end-of-the-world status as an increas- here and on remote Isla de los Estados.
ing number of Antarctica-bound vessels Since 1950 the town has been an important
call in to port. Its endless mercantile hustle naval base.
knows no irony: the souvenir shop named
for Jimmy Button (a native kidnapped for 1 Sights
show in England), the ski center named for Paralleling the Beagle Channel, Av Maipú
a destructive invasive species… You get the becomes Malvinas Argentinas west of the
idea. That said, with a pint of the world’s cemetery, then turns into RN 3, continuing
southernmost microbrew in hand, you can 12km to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.
happily plot the dazzling outdoor options: To the east, public access ends at Yaganes,
hiking, sailing, skiing, kayaking and even which heads north to meet RN 3 going north
scuba diving are just minutes from town. toward Lago Fagnano. Most visitor services
Tierra del Fuego’s comparatively high are on or near Av San Martín, a block from
wages draw Argentines from all over to re- the waterfront.
settle here, and some locals lament the loss The tourist office distributes a free city-
of small-town culture. Meanwhile, expan- tour map with information on the historic
sion means haphazard development advanc- houses around town. The 1894 Legislatura
ing in the few directions the mad geography Provincial (Provincial Legislature; Av Maipú 465)
allows. was the governor’s official residence. The
4 94
Estancia
Tierra Laguna Kimiri Aike
Punta
Delgada
del Fuego
Blanca
Estancia
Highlights San Gregorio
Primera
1 Exploring the Río Verde Angostura
Seno Skyring
ancient Fuegian
forests of Parque Monumento
Nacional Tierra del Natural
ellan
Fuego (p508). Los Pingüinos
Isla Magdalena
Pingüinera
2 Speeding through
Mag
Otway
frozen valleys on
a dog sledding Seno
Strait of
tour (p498) near
Otway Tierra del
Punta
Arenas Fuego
Ushuaia.
3 Landing the big
one while fly-fishing Bahía
Reserva Forestal Chilota Porvenir Onaisín
at an estancia Magallanes
(p512) near Río
Bahía
Grande. Inútil
4 Reliving grim Reserva Forestal
times in Ushuaia’s Península Laguna Parillar
infamous prison- Brunswick
Camerón
turned-museum, Fuerte Bulnes
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego T
Museo Marítimo &

Museo del Presidio
(p496). Cabo Lago
Froward Isla Lynch
5 Skiing and Isla
Dawson
snowboarding with Clarence
sublime views at the Isla
Capitán
world’s southernmost Aracena
resort, Cerro Castor
(p498).
S i egrra
6 Browsing back
h t s d e l F u e go H i g h l i g h t s
in time in the quiet

seaside village of Cor
dill
Porvenir (p515). era
Dar
win
7 Trekking around
the jagged peaks and
sculpted landscapes Parque Nacional
on the five-day Alberto de Agostini
circuit of Dientes de
Navarino (p514)
near Puerto Williams.
Isla
Hoste
Beagle
Channel
PACIFIC
OCEAN
4 95
Estancia Monte
Dinero
Cabo 0 100 km
Vírgenes 0 50 miles
Cerro
Sombrero
Cabo
Espíritu Santo
Bahía San
Sebastián
San ATLANTIC
Sebastián
OCEAN
CHILE
Estancia
María
Isla Grande de Behety
Río Grande
Tierra del Fuego
Estancia José
Menéndez
Paso Río
Bellavista
Estancia
Las Hijas
ARGENTINA RN
Lago 3
Blanco
Lodge Estancia Rolito
S isghhua
Deseado
t si a
Tolhuin
Parque Glaciar Lago Fagnano (Kami)
Nacional Martial Paso Garibaldi
Tierra
del Fuego
Guardería Cerro
Lapataia Castor
Ushuaia Estancia
Harberton
Estancia
Yendegaia Puerto Villa
Puerto Williams Ukika
Navarino
de
cho e
Puerto Isla Picton tre ir
Isla Toro Es la Ma
Navarino
Isla Nueva
Isla
Lennox
Parque Nacional
Cabo de Hornos
Cape Horn
(Cabo de Hornos)
4 96
century-old Iglesia de la Merced (cnr Av 2 Activities
San Martín & Don Bosco) was built with convict
Hiking possibilities should not be limited to
labor. Casa Beban (cnr Av Maipú & Plúschow; Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego; the en-
h 11am-6pm) was built in 1911 using parts
tire mountain range behind Ushuaia, with
ordered from Sweden, and sometimes hosts its lakes and rivers, is a hiker’s high. How-
local art exhibits. ever, many trails are poorly marked or not
oMuseo Marítimo & marked at all, and some hikers who have
Museo del Presidio MUSEUM
easily scurried uphill have gotten lost trying
(% 02901-437481; www.museomaritimo.com; cnr to find the trail back down. For their safety
Yaganes & Gobernador Paz; admission AR$200; hikers going outside the national park are
h 9am-8pm) Convicts were transferred from asked to register at the tourist office (p507)
Isla de los Estados (Staten Island) to Ushuaia upon their departure and return. Club Andi-
in 1906 to build this national prison, finished no Ushuaia (p507) has maps and good infor-
in 1920. The cells, designed for 380 inmates, mation. In an emergency, contact the Civil
held up to 800 before closing in 1947. Fa- Guard (% 02901-22108, 103). Boating can be
mous prisoners include illustrious author undertaken year-round.
Ricardo Rojasand and Russian anarchist Summer Activities
Simón Radowitzky. The depiction of penal Cerro Martial & Glaciar Martial OUTDOORS
life is intriguing, but information is only in (h 10am-4pm) The fantastic panoramas of
Spanish. Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel are more
Maritime exhibits provide a unique impressive than the actual smallish glacier.
glimpse into the region’s history. Remains Weather is changeable so take warm, dry
of the world’s narrowest-gauge freight train, clothing and sturdy footwear. You can hike
which transported prisoners between town or do a canopy tour. To get here, catch a taxi
and work stations, sit in the courtyard. From or minivan (AR$120) to Cerro Martial; the
December to March, guided tours (also in latter leave from the corner of Av Maipú and
English) are at 11:30am and 4:30pm. If you Juana Fadul every half-hour from 8:30am
can, take your tour with Horacio. to 6:30pm.
Museo Yamaná MUSEUM
Canopy Tours ADVENTURE TOUR
(% 02901-422874; Rivadavia 56; admission AR$75; (www.canopyushuaia.com.ar; Refugio de Montaña,
A ct
h 10am-7pm) Small but carefully tended,

s hiua
Cerro Martial; adult/child incl transfer US$32/28;

this museum has an excellent overview of h 10am-5:15pm Oct-Jun) Evening canopy tours
v i ti ai e s
the Yahgan (Yamaná) way of life. It delves offer an hour’s worth of Tarzan time, zipping
into their survival in harsh weather without through the forest with 11 zip-line cables and
clothing, why only women swam and how two hanging bridges. By reservation only.
campfires were kept in moving canoes. Ex-
pertly detailed dioramas (also in English) Cruceros Australis CRUISE
show the bays and inlets of Parque Nacional (% in Santiago 022-442-3115; www.australis.com;
Tierra del Fuego; useful before a park visit. 3 nights & 4 days per person from US$1190; h late
Sep-early Apr) Luxurious three- to four-night
Museo del Fin del Mundo MUSEUM
sightseeing cruises from Ushuaia to Punta
(% 02901-421863; www.museodelfindelmundo. Arenas, with the possibility to disembark at
org.ar; cnr Av Maipú & Rivadavia; admission Cape Horn.
AR$130; h 10am-7pm) Built in 1903, this for-
mer bank contains exhibits on Fuegian nat- Aeroclub Ushuaia SCENIC FLIGHTS
ural history, stuffed birdlife, life of natives (% 421717, 421892; www.aeroclubushuaia.com;
and early penal colonies, and replicas of 5-passenger charter per person US$335) Offers
moderate interest. Guided visits are at 11am scenic rides over the channel and may trav-
and 3:30pm. el to Puerto Williams, Chile (10kg allowed).
Leaves before 1pm; confirm three days in
Parque Yatana Park PARK
advance.
(Fundación Cultiva; % 425212; cnr Magallanes & 25
de Mayo; h 9am-noon Mon-Fri) Part art project, Winter Activities
part urban refuge, a city block of lenga forest With the surrounding peaks loaded with
is preserved from encroaching development powder, winter visitors should jump at
by one determined family. the chance to explore the local ski resorts.
Accessed from RN 3, resorts offer both
4 97
ANTARCTICA: THE ICE

For many travelers, a journey to Antarctica represents a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Despite its high price tag, it is much more than just a continent to tick off your list. You
will witness both land and ice shelves piled with hundreds of meters of undulating, un-
touched snow. Glaciers drop from mountainsides and icebergs form sculptures as tall as
buildings. The wildlife is thrilling, with thousands of curious penguins and an extraordi-
nary variety of flying birds, seals and whales.
More than 90% of Antarctic-bound boats pass through Ushuaia; in the 2014–15
season, that meant almost 40,000 tourists – a stunning contrast to the continent’s
population of 5000 (summer) or 1200 (winter) scientists and staff. But travel here is
not without its costs. On November 23, 2007, the hull of the MV Explorer was gashed by
ice but evacuated successfully before sinking. The circumstances were highly unusual,
although the incident provoked further safety measures.
So long as you’ve got two or three weeks to spare, hopping on board a cruise ship is
not out of the question. Some voyages take in the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) and
South Georgia (human population 10 to 20, estimated penguin population two to three
million); some go just to the Antarctic Peninsula; others focus on retracing historic expe-
ditions. A small but growing handful of visitors reach Antarctica aboard private vessels.
All are sailboats (equipped with auxiliary engines).
The season runs from mid-October to mid-March, depending on ice conditions.
It used to be that peak-season voyages sold out; now most trips do. When shopping
around, ask how many days you will actually spend in Antarctica, as crossing the South-
ern Ocean takes up to two days each way, and how many landings will be there. The
smaller the ship, the more landings there are per passenger (always depending on the
weather, of course). Tour companies charge anywhere from US$7000 to US$70,000,
although some ships allow walk-ons, which can cost as little as US$5000 for 10 days.
Required insurance costs extra (around US$800). Check to see if your ship provides
outdoor clothing.
Due to Ushuaia’s proximity to the Antarctic Peninsula, most cruises leave from here.
If you are chasing the discounts, it is best to check in with agencies a few weeks in
A ct
s hiua
advance, once you are actually in South America. Last-minute bookings can be made
through Freestyle Adventure Travel (% 2901-609792; www.freestyleadventuretravel.com;
v i ti ai e s
Gobernador Paz 866), a 1% for the Planet member that also offers discount Cape Horn
trips, and Ushuaia Turismo (p500). Other travel agencies and tour operators offering
packages include Rumbo Sur (p507), All Patagonia (p507) and Canal Fun (p499),
though there are many more.
Check that your company is a member of IAATO (www.iaato.org), which mandates
strict guidelines for responsible travel to Antarctica. The following are just a few compa-
nies that go to Antarctica:
Adventure Associates Cruise (www.adventureassociates.com) Australia’s first tour
company to Antarctica, with many ships and destinations.
National Geographic Expeditions (www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com) Highly
recommended, with quality naturalists and experts, aboard the 148-passenger National
Geographic Explorer.
Peregrine Adventures (www.peregrineadventures.com) Offers unique trips that include
visiting the Antarctic Circle, with kayaking and camping options.
WildWings Travel (www.wildwings.co.uk) UK-based company that focuses on
bird-watching and wildlife in Antarctica.
For more information see Lonely Planet’s Antarctica guidebook. Also check http://
polarconservation.org for up-to-date information and articles. In Ushuaia consult the
very helpful Oficina Antárctica (% 02901-430015; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/antartida; Av
Maipú 505; h 9am-5pm with ship in port) at the pier.
4 98
Ushuaia
A B C D
22 ÿ
# ÿ
#
24
Don Bosco
Laserre
Bouchard 19 21
Rivadavia
#ÿ
ÿ #
Va Bou
25
ld
éz cha
ÿ
#
Solís Parque
Yatana
Romero
d r
Monseñor Fagnano
÷6
#
2
Magallanes Mag
36 #
ú
Onas
Godoy
Juana Fadul
Triunvirato
Piedrabuena
25 de Mayo
Sarmiento
Patagonia
9 de Julio
Belgrano
Roca
Glaciar Campos Campos
Martial
(7km) Lider 26
D ›
# ÿ
# Montiel ›
#
Gobernador Paz Gobernador
Don Bosco
Laserre
#
17 # 23
ÿ
# 12 43
3
tery Tecni- #
ú
Deloquí Austral De
National Parks #
ú
Juan M de Rosas
46 Bus Sur # # 13 39
›
Administration 27 41 29 û
# 45 7# 30
11 # ú
ò #úú
1
ï
# ÿ
# #
ú 10 # ú
# # 37 ú
#›## ##
1 Av San Martín Instituto 15 Av San
33 ú#
1
1 1
D þ
# #2
Ü 16 Fueguino de 20 ÿ
#
1
Casa Beban (300m);
#
3 47
1
1 49 28 # Turismo â
31 ú #
û
1
1
Casa de la Cultura #
ú # #
ï
Performing Arts (550m); Av Maipú Av Ma
Parque Nacional Tierra ú
# Municipal 8
4 del Fuego (12.5km) 32
ï
Tourist Office # 9#
Pasaje Pedro Antarctica ï# 14 ##
Luis Figue Tourist Office
Tourist
T our
Aeroclub Ushuaia Wharf

s h ua
Bahía Ushuaia
D
(900m) (100m)
A B C D
s ia
Tourist
Wharf
downhill and cross-country options. The ski Alaskan huskies bumping across Tierra
season runs from June to September, with Mayor. For a memorable night, combine
July (winter vacation) the busiest month. either with an evening bonfire (US$130 to
US$145). It also does guided snowcat rides
Cerro Castor SKIING
and many travelers have enjoyed the 4WD
(% 02901-499301; www.cerrocastor.com; full- day trip to Lago Fagnano with canoeing
day lift ticket adult/child AR$730/500; h mid-
and a full barbecue. It’s 19km from Ushuaia
Jun–mid-Oct) Fun and incredibly scenic, the
via RN 3.
largest resort has 15 runs spanning 400
hectares, a number of lodges with cafes Cerro Martial &
and even a hip sushi bar. Rentals are avail- Glaciar Martial SNOW SPORTS
able for skis, boards and cross-country skis. (% cell 1551-0307; http://www.escuelaushuaia.com;
Multiday and shoulder-season tickets are Nordic ski classes AR$520, all-day snowshoe rental
discounted. Clear windbreaks are added to AR$110; h 10am-4pm) Ideal for families or a
lifts on cold days. It’s 26km from Ushuaia few hours of fun, this winter sports center
via RN 3. offers Nordic skiing and rents equipment
and clothing; ask about snowshoes to take
Tierra Mayor SNOW SPORTS
a winter walk.
(% 02901-430329; http://antartur.com.ar; RN 3,
Km3018; guided dog sledding US$50) Offers com-
petitively priced adventure tours and has its T Tours
own mountain base. Snowshoe a beautiful Many travel agencies sell tours around the
alpine valley or dogsled with Siberian and region. You can go horseback riding, hiking,
4 99
e
# 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, the
E F famous 4WD adventure around Lago Fagna-
Cabañas del Beagle no, and a multisport outing around Estancia
D
ÿ
#
24 (700m) Harberton that includes kayaking around
Estancia Harberton and a visit to the pen-
guin colony.
D1
Lago Escondido Che Turismo Alternativo BOAT TOUR
19 21 (60km);
Rivadavia
#ÿ
ÿ # Lago Fagnano (% cell 02901-15-517967; www.facebook.com/
Va Bou
25 elcheturismoalternativo; Tourist Wharf; half-day

ld
(100km)
éz cha
ÿ
#
tour AR$850) This owner-run tour includes a
trek on Bridges Island and local beer on tap
d r
served for the cruise back to the harbor –

2
very popular with the hostel crowd.
Magallanes
36 ú
# oCompañía de
Godoy
Rivadavia
Guías de Patagonia ADVENTURE TOUR

Roca
Campos (% 02901-437753; www.companiadeguias.com.

38 1 48 ar; full-day hike US$105) A reputable outfitter
ú
# #ý
â # organizing expeditions and multiday treks
Museo
Antártida Argentina
Gobernador Paz
Marítimo around Ushuaia and further afield in re-
Laserre
43 18 ÿ
# & Museo mote Tierra del Fuego. Also offers glacier
Yaganes
Tecni- #
ú 42 #
ú del Presidio 3 trekking, mountain biking and Antarctica
Austral Deloquí
trips with sea kayaking.
Sur # # 13 39
›
7# 30 34 44
37 ú
#›## # ú
ò #úú
## #
ú Patagonia Adventure Explorer BOAT TOUR
to 15 Av San Martín (% 02901-15-465842; www.patagoniaadvent.com.
o de 20 ÿ
# ú 40
#
o 3 47 ar; Tourist Wharf) Comfortable boats with
5â
# 4 # 35
ú
â
# #
û
â
# snacks and a short hike on Isla Bridges. For
Av Maipú
l 8 extra adventure, set sail in the 18ft sailboat.
e #ï 9#
4 Full-day sail trips with wine and gourmet
a ï# 14 ##
e snacks or multiday trips are also available.
T our
Piratour
s h ua
Beagle Channel BOAT TOUR
E F (% 02901-435557; www.piratour.net; Av San
s ia
Martín 847; penguin colony tour US$150; h 9am-
9pm) Runs 20-person tours to Isla Martillo
canoeing, visit Lagos Escondido and Fag- for trekking around Magellanic and Papúa
nano, stay at an estancia (ranch) or spy on penguins, with a visit to Harberton. Also
birds and beavers. boats to Puerto Williams, Chile (December
Navigating the Beagle Channel’s to March). There’s a second office on the
gunmetal-gray waters overlooking distant Tourist Wharf.
glaciers and rocky isles offers a fresh per-
spective and decent wildlife-watching. Har- Rayen Aventura ADVENTURE TOUR
bor cruises (around AR$750) are usually (% 02901-437005; www.rayenaventura.com; Av

four-hour morning or afternoon excursions San Martín 611) Known for their upbeat 4x4
to sea lion and cormorant colonies. The tours to Lago Fagnano, with trekking or
number of passengers, extent of snacks and kayak options and estancia visits. Also has
hiking options varies between operators. A winter tours.
highlight is an island stop to hike and look oTierra ADVENTURE TOUR
at conchales, the middens or shell mounds (% 02901-433800, 02901-15-486886; www.tierra
left by the native Yahgan. Tour operators turismo.com; Onas 235, office 4C) S Doing ac-
offering cruises line the entrance to Ush- tive tours and unusual tailored trips with
uaia’s pier. aplomb, this small agency was created by
Canal Fun ADVENTURE TOUR former guides going for a more personal-
(% 02901-435777; www.canalfun.com; Roca 136) ized experience. Options include a 4WD trip
Run by hip young guys, these popular all- to Lago Fagnano with boating and hiking
day outings include hiking and kayaking (AR$1400), treks in Parque Nacional Tierra
500
Ushuaia
æ Top Sights 26 Torre al Sur ..............................................C3
1 Museo Marítimo & Museo del 27 Yakush ......................................................B3
Presidio ..................................................F3
ú Eating
æ Sights 28 Almacen Ramos Generales....................C4
2 Iglesia de la Merced................................ B4 29 Bodegón Fueguino ..................................C3
3 Legislatura Provincial............................. D4 30 Cafe Bar Banana...................................... E3
4 Museo del Fin del Mundo ........................E4 31 Chiko .........................................................D4
5 Museo Yamaná ........................................E4 32 Christopher ..............................................C4
6 Parque Yatana Park................................ D2 33 El Turco.....................................................A4
34 Freddo....................................................... E3
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 35 Kalma Resto............................................. F4
7 Canal Fun ................................................. D3 36 Kaupé ........................................................D2
8 Che Turismo Alternativo........................ D4 37 Küar 1900 .................................................D3
9 Patagonia Adventure Explorer.............. D4 38 La Anónima .............................................. E3
10 Piratour .................................................... C3 39 La Estancia ............................................... E3
11 Rayen Aventura....................................... D3 40 Lomitos Martinica ................................... F4
12 Tierra ........................................................ A3 41 María Lola Restó......................................B3
13 Tolkar.........................................................E3 42 Paso Garibaldi.......................................... E3
14 Tres Marías Excursiones ....................... D4 43 Placeres Patagónicos ............................. E3
15 Turismo Comapa .................................... D3 44 Tante Sara................................................ E3
16 Turismo de Campo ................................. D4 45 Tante Sara................................................C3
17 Ushuaia Turismo..................................... C3
û Drinking & Nightlife
ÿ Sleeping 46 Dublin Irish Pub .......................................C3

18 Antarctica Hostel.....................................E3 47 Viagro........................................................D4
19 Galeazzi-Basily B&B ................................ E1
20 Hostel Cruz del Sur..................................E4 ý Entertainment
21 La Casa de Tere B&B .............................. E1 48 Cine Pakawaia.......................................... F3
22 Los Cormoranes ...................................... B1
23 Mil 810 ...................................................... D3 þ Shopping
24 Mysten Kepen .......................................... E1 49 Boutique del Libro ...................................B4
25 Posada Fin del Mundo............................. E1
F esshtua
i val
del Fuego (half-day AR$650) and Estancia Turismo de Campo TOUR

i a s & E v e nt s
Harberton visits. (% 02901-437351; www.turismodecampo.com; Fue

gia Basquet 414) Organizes light trekking,
Tres Marías Excursiones BOAT TOUR
Beagle Channel sailing trips and visits to
(% 02901-436416; www.tresmariasweb.com; Tour- Estancia Rolito near Río Grande. Also sells
ist Wharf) The only outfitter with permission nine- to 12-night Antarctica passages.
to land on Isla ‘H’ in the Isla Bridges natural
reserve, which has shell mounds and a col- Ushuaia Turismo TOUR
ony of rock cormorants. It takes only eight (% 02901-436003; www.ushuaiaturismoevt.com.
passengers. ar; Gobernador Paz 865) Offers last-minute
Antarctica cruise bookings.
Tolkar TOUR
(% 02901-431408, 02901-431412; www.tolkartur
ismo.com.ar; Roca 157) A helpful, popular, all-
z Festivals & Events
Desafio Ushuaia SPORTS
round agency, affiliated with Tecni-Austral
(h early Mar) A hugely popular international
buses.
marathon on the southernmost course on
Turismo Comapa TOUR the continent.
(% 430727; www.comapa.com; Av San Martín 409)
Festival Nacional de la
Confirm Navimag and Cruceros Australis
Noche Más Larga FESTIVAL
passages at this long-standing agency also
(Longest Night; h mid-Jun) This festival fea-
selling conventional tours and boat transfer
tures two weeks of shows and music recitals
to Puerto Williams, Chile.
(ranging from tango to jazz and popular mu-
sic), with free events at locations throughout
501
the city. For more information, contact the La Posta HOSTEL $
Municipal Tourist Office (p507). (% 444650; www.laposta-ush.com.ar; Perón Sur
864; dm/d US$27/80; i W ) This cozy hostel
Marcha Blanca SNOW SPORTS
and guesthouse on the outskirts of town is
(www.marchablanca.com; h mid-Aug) Running hugely popular with young travelers thanks
for a quarter of a century, Ushuaia’s biggest to warm service, homey decor and spotless
ski event is the annual cross-country event open kitchens. The downside is that the
which re-creates San Martín’s historic Au- place is far from the town center, but public
gust 17, 1817 crossing of the Andes. There’s buses and taxis are plentiful.
also a master class for ski enthusiasts, snow
sculptures and a Nordic ski marathon. Los Cormoranes HOSTEL $
(% 02901-423459; www.loscormoranes.com; Kam-
4 Sleeping shen 788; dm US$31-40, d/tr/q US$107/132/155;
Reserve ahead from January to early March. i W ) This friendly, mellow HI hostel is a
Check when booking for free arrival trans- 10-minute (uphill) walk north of down-
fers. Winter rates drop a bit, and some town. Six-bed dorms with radiant floors face
places close altogether, though winter visits outdoor plank hallways, some with private
are becoming popular. Most offer laundry bathrooms. Doubles have polished cement
service. floors and down duvets – the best is room 10,
The Municipal Tourist Office (p507) has with bay views. Linens could use an update
lists of B&Bs and cabañas (cabins), and also and common spaces are so-so. Breakfast in-
posts a list of available lodgings outside after cludes DIY eggs and fresh orange juice.
closing time. Yakush HOSTEL $
Hostels abound, all with kitchens and (% 435807; www.hostelyakush.com; Piedrabue-
most with internet access. Rates typically na 118; dm US$28-30, d with/without bathroom
drop 25% in low season (April to October). US$105/95; h mid-Oct–mid-Apr; i W ) A color-
oAntarctica Hostel HOSTEL $
ful hostel that seems expensive for what you
(% 02901-435774; www.antarcticahostel.com; get, particularly for the dark doubles.
Antártida Argentina 270; dm/d US$26/85; i W ) Camping Municipal CAMPGROUND $
This friendly backpacker hub delivers with (RN 3; campsites free) About 10km west of
a warm atmosphere and helpful staff. The town, en route to Parque Nacional Tierra del
Slseheua
open-floor plan and beer on tap are plainly Fuego, this free campground boasts a lovely
conducive to making friends. Guests lounge setting but minimal facilities.
p i ing
and play cards in the common room and
cook in a cool balcony kitchen. Cement oGaleazzi-Basily B&B B&B $$ a
rooms are clean and ample, with radiant (% 02901-423213; www.avesdelsur.com.ar; Valdéz
floor heating. 323; s/d without bathroom US$45/65, 2-/4-person
cabin US$110/140; i W ) The best feature of
Hostel Cruz del Sur HOSTEL $
this elegant wooded residence is its warm
(% 02901-434099; www.xdelsur.com.ar; Deloquí and hospitable family who will make you
242; dm US$25; iW ) This easygoing, or- feel right at home. Rooms are small but
ganized hostel comprises two renovated offer a personal touch. Since beds are twin-
houses (1920 and 1926), painted tangerine sized, couples may prefer a modern cabin
and joined by a passageway. Dorm prices out back. It’s a peaceful spot, and where else
are based on room capacity, the only disad- can you practice your English, French, Ital-
vantage being your bathroom might be on ian and Portuguese?
another floor. There’s a fine backyard patio,
though indoor shared spaces are scant. Mysten Kepen GUESTHOUSE $$
(% 02901-430156, 02901-15-497391; http://mys
Torre al Sur HOSTEL $
tenkepen.blogspot.com; Rivadavia 826; d/tr/q
(% 02901-430745; www.torrealsur.com.ar; Gober- US$94/144/175; W ) If you want an authentic
nador Paz 855; dm/d US$20/35; W ) The sister Argentine family experience, this is it. Hosts
hostel to Cruz del Sur may seem like not Roberto and Rosario still recount stories of
much on the outside but inside there’s a favorite guests from years past, and their
welcoming, organized ambience with color- immaculate two-kid home feels busy and
ful rooms, renovated bathrooms and a well- lived in – in a good way. Rooms have newish
stocked kitchen. Marisa is the warm host. installations, bright corduroy duvets and
502
ESTANCIA HARBERTON
Tierra del Fuego’s first estancia, Harberton (% Skype estanciaharberton.turismo; www.
estanciaharberton.com; entrance adult/child AR$180/free, s/d full board & activities US$325/
580, dm US$50; h 10am-7pm Oct 15-Apr 15), was founded in 1886 by missionary Thomas
Bridges and his family. The location earned fame from a stirring memoir written by
Bridges’ son Lucas, titled Uttermost Part of the Earth, about his coming of age among
the now-extinct Selk’nam and Yahgan people. Available in English, the book is an excel-
lent introduction to the history of the region and the ways of native peoples.
In a splendid location, the estancia is owned and run by Thomas Bridges’ descend-
ants. There’s lodging and day visitors can attend guided tours (featuring the island’s
oldest house and a replica Yahgan dwelling), dine at the restaurant and visit the Reserva
Yecapasela penguin colony. It’s also a popular destination for bird-watchers.
On-site, the impressive Museo Acatushún (www.acatushun.com; entrance with estancia
visit AR$180) houses a vast collection of mammal and bird specimens compiled by the
late biologist Natalie Prosser Goodall. Emphasizing the region’s marine mammals, the
museum has inventoried thousands of mammal and bird specimens; among the rarest is
a Hector’s beaked whale. Much of this vast collection was found at Bahía San Sebastián,
north of Río Grande, where a difference of up to 11km between high and low tide leaves
animals stranded. Confirm the museum’s opening hours with the estancia.
Reserve well in advance as there are no phones at the estancia, though Skyping may
be possible. With advance permission, free primitive camping is allowed at Río Lasi-
fashaj, Río Varela and Río Cambaceres. Harberton is 85km east of Ushuaia via RN 3 and
rough RC-j, a 1½- to two-hour drive. In Ushuaia, shuttles leave from the base of 25 de
Mayo at Av Maipú at 9am, returning around 3pm. Day-long catamaran tours are organ-
ized by local agencies.
handy shelving for nighttime reading. Air- friendly B&B with warm down duvets and
port transfers and winter discounts available. native lenga-wood furniture. Hiking trails
nearby lead up into the mountains. The
Slseheua
La Casa de Tere B&B B&B $$

friendly owners are multilingual (English,
(% 02901-422312; www.lacasadetere.com.ar; Ri- Italian, Spanish and Portuguese) and can ar-
p i ing
vadavia 620; d with/without US$120/85) Tere range transportation and guided excursions.
a
showers guests with attention, but also gives Check the website for location directions.
them the run of the place in this beautiful
modern home with great views. Its three Cabañas del Beagle CABIN $$$
tidy rooms fill up fast. Guests can cook, and (% 02901-432785; www.cabanasdelbeagle.com;
there’s cable TV and a fireplace in the living Las Aljabas 375; 2-person cabin US$260, 4-night
room. It’s a short but steep walk uphill from minimum) Couples in search of a romantic
the town center. hideaway delight in these rustic chic cabins
with heated stone floors, crackling fireplac-
Posada Fin del Mundo B&B $$
es, and full kitchens stocked daily with fresh
(% 02901-437345; www.posadafindelmundo.com. bread, coffee and other treats. The person-
ar; cnr Rivadavia & Valdéz; d US$140) This expan- able owner, Alejandro, wins high praise for
sive home exudes good taste and character, his attentive service. It’s 13 blocks uphill
from the snug living room with folk art and from the town center and accessed via Av
expansive water views to the doddling choc- Leandro Alem.
olate Lab. With nine distinct rooms, the best
of which are upstairs. Some are small but Cabañas Aldea Nevada CABIN $$$
beds are long. Breakfast is abundant and (% 02901-422851; www.aldeanevada.com.ar; Mar-
there’s also afternoon tea and cakes. Some- tial 1430; 2-/4-person cabins from US$140/190,
times booked by entire ski teams in winter. 2-night minimum; i W ) You expect the elves to
arrive here any minute. This beautiful patch
Familia Piatti B&B B&B $$
of lenga forest is discreetly dotted with 13
(% 437104; www.familiapiatti.com; Bahía Paraíso log cabins with outdoor grills and rough-
812, Bosque del Faldeo; d US$90; i W ) S If hewn benches contemplatively placed by
idling in the forest appeals, head for this
503
the ponds. Interiors are rustic but modern, 5 Eating
with functional kitchens, wood stoves and Almacen Ramos Generales CAFE $
hardwood details. (% 02901-4247317; Av Maipú 749; mains AR$73-
Cumbres del Martial INN $$$ 175; h 9am-midnight) With its quirky memora-
(% 02901-424779; www.cumbresdelmartial.com. bilia and postings of the local environmental
ar; Martial 3560; d/cabin US$365/525; i W ) issues you’ve never heard of, this former
This stylish place sits at the base of the Gla- general store is a peek inside the real Ush-
ciar Martial. Standard rooms have a touch uaia. Locals hold their powwows here. Crois-
of the English cottage, while the two-story sants and crusty baguettes are baked by the
wooden cabins are simply stunners, with French pastry chef. There’s also local beer on
stone fireplaces, Jacuzzis and dazzling vault- tap, a wine list, and light fare such as sand-
ed windows. Lush robes, optional massages wiches, soups and quiche.
(extra) and your country’s newspaper deliv- Cafe Bar Banana CAFE $
ered to your mailbox are some of the deli- (% 02901-424021; Av San Martín 273; mains
cious details. AR$60-130; h 8am-1am Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat, 9am-
Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa RESORT $$$ 1am Sun) Serving homemade burgers and
(% 441300; www.loscauquenes.com; d from fries, sandwiches and steak and eggs, this
US$365; iWs ) Precious and exclusive, this is a local favorite for high-octane, low-cost
sprawling wooden lodge sits directly on the dining with friends.
Beagle Channel, in a private neighborhood Freddo ICE CREAM $
with gravel-road access. Rooms are tasteful (Av San Martín 209; cones AR$50; h 9:30am-
and well appointed; special features include
12:30am) One of Argentina’s best gelato
a play room stocked with kids’ games and shops has opened its doors to snowbound
outdoor terraces with glass windbreaks and Ushuaia – and suddenly it’s summer.
stunning channel views. Free shuttles go
downtown every few hours. It’s 4km west of El Turco CAFE $
the airport. (% 02901-424711; Av San Martín 1410; mains
There’s also a spa, sauna and indoor- AR$50-119; h noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight) Noth-
outdoor pool. Proof that Argentines will ing fancy, this classic, dated Argentine cafe
market anything, the spa features yerba nonetheless charms with reasonable prices
Eat
mate scrubs and Andean peat masks. and swift bow-tied waiters game to try out
s hiua
their French on tourists. Standards include
Arakur
ngi a
HOTEL $$$
milanesa (breaded meat), pizzas, crispy
(% 02901-442900; www.arakur.com; Cerro Alark-
fries and roast chicken.
en; d with valley/ocean view US$370/400; i W s )
Towering over the city on a wooded prom- Lomitos Martinica ARGENTINE $
ontory, Arakur is the latest luxury hotel, well (%02901-432134; Av San Martín 68; mains AR$65-
known to locals for hosting an annual music 125; h11:30am-3pm & 8:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
festival. The look is sleek and woodsy, with Cheap and cheerful, this greasy spoon with
neutral tones and snooty service that begs grill-side seating serves enormous mila
softening. Still, views are beyond compari nesa sandwiches and offers a cheap lunch
son. Rooms feature a panel of electronic special.
controls and glass-walled bathrooms. The
infinity pool is indoor-outdoor. La Anónima SUPERMARKET $
(cnr Gobernador Paz & Rivadavia; h 9am-10pm) A
Mil 810 HOTEL $$$ grocery store with cheap takeout.
(% 437710; www.hotel1810.com; 25 de Mayo 245; d
US$200; i ) Billed as boutique, this is more Placeres Patagónicos ARGENTINE $$
like a small upscale hotel. The design is (% 02901-433798; www.patagonicosweb.com.ar;

modern with elements of nature, such as 289 Deloquí; snacks AR$65, tablas from AR$100;
a retention wall of river stones and a rock h noon-midnight) This stylish cafe-deli serves
face trickling with water. Its 38 rooms fea- wooden cutting boards piled with home-
ture brocade walls, rich tones, luxuriant made bread and mouth-watering local
textures and touches of abstract art. Rooms specialties such as smoked trout and wild
have flat-screen TVs and safes, and halls are boar. It’s a good place to sip mate with a
monitored. plate of tortas fritas (frybread). Coffee ar-
rives steaming in a bowl-sized mug.
IZZET KERIBAR/GETTY IMAGES ©
HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES ©

504
505
MICHAEL TAYLOR/GETTY IMAGES ©
1. Ushuaia (p493)
MIKE TRUELOVE/GETTY IMAGES ©
A wildlife-watching cruise on the Beagle

Channel offers a fresh perspective on the
landscape.
2. Estancia Harberton (p502)

Founded in 1886, this ranch now houses an
on-site museum with a vast collection of
mammal and bird specimens.
3. Cerro Castor (p498)

The largest ski resort here has runs
spanning 400 hectares among incredible
vistas.
4. El Tren del Fin de Mundo (p510)

Once used to transport prisoners, this train
now offers a slow but scenic way to get to
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (p508).
506
Chiko SEAFOOD $$ Christopher PARRILLA $$
(% 02901-431736; 25 de Mayo 62; mains AR$110- (% 425079; www.christopherushuaia.com.ar; Av
260; h noon-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat) A Maipú 828; mains AR$100-254; h noon-3pm &
boon to seafood lovers. Crisp oversize cala 8pm-midnight, to 1am Sat) This classic grill and
mari rings, paila marina (shellfish stew) brewpub is deservedly popular with the
and fish dishes like abadejo a pil pil (pol- locals. Standouts include BBQ ribs, big sal-
lock in garlic sauce) are done so right that ads and burgers. It’s good value, with large
you might not mind the slow service. An portions that you might want to share and a
odd assemblage of Chilean memorabilia talented bartender mixing cocktails. Grab a
spells homesickness for the owners from table by the window for great harbor views.
Chile.
Küar Resto Bar PUB FOOD $$
María Lola Restó ARGENTINE $$ (% 437396; www.kuar.com.ar; Av Perito Moreno
(% 02901-421185; Deloquí 1048; mains AR$165- 2232; mains AR$115-300; h 6pm-late) This chic
264; h noon-midnight Mon-Sat) ‘Satisfying’ log-cabin-style hangout offers local beer,
defines the experience at this creative cafe- cheese boards and tapas, as well as com-
style restaurant overlooking the channel. plete dinners with ample fresh seafood. The
Locals pack this silver house for homemade interior is stylish but the highlight, espe-
pasta with seafood or strip steak in rich cially at sunset, is the jaw-dropping views
mushroom sauce; the weekday set lunch over the water. It’s five minutes from down-
(AR$104) is a steal. Service is good and por- town by cab (AR$50), or visit Küar 1900
tions tend toward humongous: desserts can (% 02901-436807; Av San Martin 471, 2nd fl; mains
easily be split. It’s among few downtown res- AR$120-180; h noon-3:30pm & 6:30pm-midnight
taurants with off-street parking. Mon-Sat), a smaller downtown venue focused

on tapas.
Paso Garibaldi ARGENTINE $$
(% 02901-432380; Deloquí 133; mains AR$150- Tante Sara CAFE $$
250; h noon-3pm & 7-11:30pm Tue-Sat, 7-11:30pm (% 423912; www.tantesara.com; cnr Av San Martín
Sun) Serving hearty local fare including & Juana Fadul; mains AR$154-265; h 8am-2am)
black bean stew, flavorful salads and roasted This corner bistro serves the usual suspects
hake, this new addition is refreshingly within a bubbly atmosphere. For a late-night bite,
out pretension. The recycled decor looks a this is your best bet – it’s the only kitchen
Eat
little too improvised, but service couldn’t be open until 2am. Its sister branch (% 433710;
s hiua
more attentive and dishes are well priced. Rivadavia & Av San Martín; mains AR$60-130;
ngi a
h 8am-8:30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat) offers

Bodegón Fueguino PATAGONIAN $$
nice pastries and weekend brunch.
(% 02901-431972; Av San Martín 859; mains
AR$95-215; h noon-2:45pm & 8-11:45pm Tue- oKalma Resto INTERNATIONAL $$$
Sun) The spot to sample hearty home-style (% 02901-425786; www.kalmaresto.com.ar; Antár-
Patagonian fare or gather for wine and ap- tida Argentina 57; mains AR$180-390; h 4-11pm
petizers. Painted peach, this century-old Mon-Sat) This tiny chef-owned gem presents
Fuegian home is cozied up with sheep- Fuegian staples like crab and octopus in a
skin-clad benches, cedar barrels and ferns. giddy new context. Black sea bass, a rich
A picada (shared appetizer plate) for two deep-sea dweller, wears a tart tomato sauce
includes eggplant, lamb brochettes, crab for contrast; there’s stuffed lamb seasoned
and bacon-wrapped plums. in pepper and rosemary; and the summer
greens and edible flowers come fresh from
La Estancia STEAK $$
the garden.
(% 02901-431421; cnr Godoy & Av San Martín;
Service is stellar, with young chef Jorge
mains AR$120-240; h noon-3pm & 8-11pm) For
making the rounds of the few black-linen
authentic Argentine asado (barbecue grill),
tables. For dessert, splurge with a not-too-
it’s hard to beat this reliable, well-priced
sweet deconstructed chocolate cake.
grill. There are many others along the main
drag, but this is the one that consistently Kaupé INTERNATIONAL $$$
delivers. Enthusiastic appetites should go (% 422704; www.kaupe.com.ar; Roca 470; mains
for the tenedor libre (AR$330). Locals and AR$180-260) For an out-of-body seafood expe-
travelers feast on whole roast lamb, juicy rience, head to this candlelit house overlook-
steaks, sizzling ribs and heaping salads. ing the bay. Chef Ernesto Vivian employs the
freshest of everything and service is impecca-
507
ble. The tasting menu features two starters, a 88 Information
main dish and dessert, with standouts such
as king crab and spinach chowder or black IMMIGRATION
sea bass in blackened butter. Immigration Office (% 02901-422334; Beau-
voir 1536; h 9am-noon Mon-Fri) Argentine
Chez Manu INTERNATIONAL $$$ office for immigration issues.
(% 432253; www.chezmanu.com; Martial 2135;
MONEY
mains AR$150-260) If you are headed to Gla-
Several banks on Avs Maipú and San Martín
ciar Martial, don’t miss this gem on the have ATMs.
way, 2km from town. Chef Emmanuel puts
a French touch on fresh local ingredients, TOURIST INFORMATION
such as Fuegian lamb or mixed plates of cold Automóvil Club Argentino (ACA; www.aca.
fruits de mer, and service stands out. The org.ar; cnr Malvinas Argentinas & Onachaga)
three-course set lunch is the best deal. Views Argentina’s auto club; good source for provin-
are a welcome bonus. cial road maps.
Club Andino Ushuaia (% 02901-422335; www.
6 Drinking & Nightlife clubandinoushuaia.com.ar; Alem 2873, Refugio
Walker; h 10am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri) Sells a
Geographically competitive drinkers should map and bilingual trekking, mountaineering and
note that the southernmost bar in the world mountain-biking guidebook. The club occa-
is not here but on a Ukrainian research sta- sionally organizes hikes and can recommend
tion in Antarctica. guides. Located 5km west of Ushuaia.
Instituto Fueguino de Turismo (Infuetur;
Dublin Irish Pub PUB
% 02901-421423; www.tierradelfuego.org.
(% 02901-430744; 9 de Julio 168; h 7pm-4am)
ar; Av Maipú 505) Tourism office for Tierra
Dublin doesn’t feel so far away with the del Fuego. Ask here about the development
lively banter and free-flowing drinks at this of island trekking routes called Huella del Fin
dimly lit foreigners’ favorite. Look for occa- del Mundo. It’s on the ground floor of Hotel
sional live music and be sure to try at least Albatros.
one of its three local Beagle beers. Municipal Tourist Office (% 02901-437666;
Prefectura Naval 470; h 8am-9pm) Very help-
Viagro BAR ful, with English- and French-speaking staff, a
(% 02901-421617; Roca 55; h 8pm-4am) If you message board and multilingual brochures, as
Dr
can get past the unfortunate name, this well as good lodging, activities and transport
sh
cocktail nook is the perfect low-lit rendez- info. Also at the Airport (% 02901-423970;
i nk
uai ing
vous spot, with exotic concoctions and ap- h during flight arrivals).
petizing tapas to fuel your night out. There’s National Parks Administration (% 02901-
dancing on Saturday nights. 421315; Av San Martín 1395; h 9am-5pm a & N i g h tl i f e
Mon-Fri) Offers information on Parque Nacional
3 Entertainment Tierra del Fuego.
Cine Pakawaia CINEMA TRAVEL AGENCIES
(% 436500; cnr Yaganes & Gobernador Paz; tickets All Patagonia (% 02901-433622; www.allpata
AR$70) First-run movies are shown at the gonia.com; Juana Fadul 48; h 10am-7pm Mon-
Presidio’s fully restored hangar-style theater. Fri, to 1pm Sat) Amex rep offering conventional
and luxurious trips.
Casa de la Cultura Rumbo Sur (% 02901-421139; www.rumbosur.
Performing Arts PERFORMING ARTS com.ar; Av San Martín 350; h 9am-7pm Mon-
(% 422417; cnr Malvinas Argentinas & 12 de Octu- Fri) Ushuaia’s longest-running agency special-
bre) Hidden behind a gym, this center hosts izes in conventional activities, plus a catamaran
occasional live-music shows. It’s 6km north harbor cruise. It also handles bookings to
of the center via Av Maipú. Antarctica.
MEDICAL SERVICES
7 Shopping Hospital Regional (% 107, 02901-423200; cnr
Boutique del Libro BOOKS Fitz Roy & 12 de Octubre) Emergency services.
(% 02901-424750; Av San Martín 1120) Out- It’s southwest of the center via Av Maipú.
standing selection of Patagonia- and
Antarctica-themed material, with literature, POST
guidebooks and pictorials (also in English). Post Office (cnr Av San Martín & Godoy;
h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) For mail.
508
88 Getting There & Away 88 Getting Around
AIR Taxis to/from the modern airport, 4km south-
LAN is the best bet for Buenos Aires; purchase west of downtown, cost AR$120. Taxis can be
tickets through local travel agencies. Aerolíneas chartered for around AR$1300 for three hours.
Argentinas (% 0810-2228-6527; cnr Av Maipú There’s a local bus service along Av Maipú.
& 9 de Julio) jets to Buenos Aires (one way from Rental rates for compact cars, including
US$250, 3½ hours) several times daily, some- insurance, start at around AR$800 per day; try
times stopping in El Calafate (70 minutes). Localiza (% 02901-430739; Av Maipú 778).
LADE (% 02901-421123; Av San Martín 542) Some agencies may not charge for drop-off in
flies to Buenos Aires, El Calafate, Río Grande and other parts of Argentine Tierra del Fuego.
may serve other destinations. Hourly ski shuttles (AR$250 roundtrip) leave
BOAT from the corner of Juana Fadul and Av Maipú to
resorts along RN 3, from 9am to 2pm daily. Each
A few private yachts charter trips around the
resort also provides its own transportation from
Beagle Channel, to Cape Horn and Antarctica.
downtown Ushuaia.
These trips must be organized well in advance.
For Puerto Williams, Ushuaia Boating
(% 02901-436193; www.ushuaiaboating.com.
ar; Tourist Wharf s/n; one-way US$135 on Sat) Parque Nacional
goes daily in Zodiac boats. Tickets include a Tierra del Fuego
40-minute crossing plus an overland transfer
from Puerto Navarino. Note: inclement weather Banked against the Beagle Channel, the
often means cancellations. Options include a hushed, fragrant southern forests of Tierra
9:30am departure and sometimes a 6pm depar- del Fuego are a stunning setting to explore.
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego Par
ture (with sufficient demand). Another option to West of Ushuaia some 12km along RN 3,
Puerto Williams is offered by Piratour (p499). Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (admis-
A small departure tax (tasa de embarque) is sion AR$170, collected 8am-8pm) was Argentina’s
paid at the pier. first coastal national park and extends 630
BUS sq km from the Beagle Channel in the south
Ushuaia has no bus terminal. Book outgoing bus to beyond Lago Fagnano in the north. For
tickets as much in advance as possible; many information, visit the Centro de Visitantes
readers have complained about getting stuck Alakush (h 9am-7pm, shorter hours Mar-Nov).
here in high season. Depending on your luck, The public has access to only a couple of
G e tt
long waits at border crossings can be expected. thousand hectares along the southern edge
Bus Sur (% 02901-430727; Av San Martín of the park, with short, easy trails designed
q iung
245) has buses to Punta Arenas and Puerto more for day-tripping families than back-
e NTac
Natales, Chile, three times weekly at 5:30am, packing trekkers. The rest is protected as a
connecting with Montiel. The office is in Comapa, reserva natural estricta (strictly off-limits
h ei r
which also does tours and runs ferries in Chile. zone). Despite this, a few scenic hikes along
onal
Tecni-Austral (%02901-431408; Roca 157)

e & Away
the bays and rivers, or through dense native

buses head to Río Grande at 5am via Tolhuin; to
forests of evergreen coihue, canelo and de-
Punta Arenas three times weekly; and to Río Galle-
T i e rra d e l F u e go
gos daily at 5am. Taqsa has buses to Río Grande at ciduous lenga, are worthwhile. For spectac-
5am via Tolhuin; to Punta Arenas and Puerto Na- ular color, come in autumn when hillsides of
tales, Chile, three-times weekly at 5am; and to Río ñire glow red.
Gallegos, El Calafate and Bariloche daily at 5am. Birdlife is prolific, especially along the
Lider (% 02901-442264; Gobernador Paz 921) coastal zone. Keep an eye out for con-
runs door-to-door minivans to Tolhuin and Río dors, albatross, cormorants, gulls, terns,
Grande six to eight times daily, with fewer de- oystercatchers, grebes, kelp geese and the
partures on Sunday. Montiel (% 02901-421366; comical, flightless, orange-billed steamer
Gobernador Paz 605) has similar services. ducks. Common invasive species include
Buses from Ushuaia the European rabbit and the North Ameri-
can beaver, both wreaking ecological havoc
DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR) despite their cuteness. Gray and red foxes,
Calafate 1150 18 enjoying the abundance of rabbits, may
Punta Arenas, Chile 920 12 also be seen.
Río Gallegos 750 13
4 Sleeping & Eating
Río Grande 250 3½ There is one refugio and various, mostly
Tolhuin 150 1½ free campgrounds. Most get crowded, which
0 2 km
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego – Lapataia Sector 0 1 mile
962m
Parque Nacional
Tierra Del Fuego
Hito XXIV Co Cerro
rdó Francisco
nd
eG Seguí
ua
na Cascada
co Río Pipo
Senda Hito
Rí
o
Lago XXIV oyo o
Roca Arruanac Pipo
G Camping
Cerro Río Pipo
639m Guanaco
(973m) Estación Cascada
Camping & La Macarena
Refugio ta
Cerro El Lago Roca Al
Cóndor A pa Senda
m Pampa Alta
Pi rro
lo yo Pa Estación Fin del
Laguna to Mundo
Cecilia Isla El Salmón Estación del To
Parque Ushuaia
Laguna Residencia Park (8km)
Negra Isla El Guardaparques Entrance
Salmón Río
Lapataia
Centro de Visitantes Alakush
Camping RN
Camping Las Bandurrias 3
Laguna Camping Monte Susana
Senda Verde Ensenada (502m)
Laguna Guardería
Negra Camping Los Lapataia
Cauquenes Cerro Bellavista Jetty
Senda del Mirador (299m)
Turbal Lapataia í a E n s en a d a
Bahía Senda Bah Punta
Senda Lapataia Costera
Castorera Punta Luij
Puerto Punta Italam Bahía
Diablito Galaxias Punta Cucharita
Ishton
Isla
Redonda Isla Beagle
Puerto Estorbo
Reserva Caneto Channel
CHILE
Punta
Natural Entrada
ARGENTINA
Estricta
N A&CEat
Sl eReQpUi Eng
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego PA L T IE R R A DE L F U E G O
I O NiAng
509
5 10
HIKING
After running 3242km from Buenos Aires, RN 3 reaches its terminus at the shores of
Bahía Lapataia. From here, trails Mirador Lapataia (500m), with excellent views, and
Senda Del Turbal (400m) lead through winding lenga forest further into the bay. Other
short walks include the self-guided nature trail Senda Laguna Negra (950m), through
peat bogs, and the Senda Castorera (400m), showcasing massive abandoned beaver
dams on a few ponds.
Senda Hito XXIV

From Camping Lago Roca, a flat 10km (four-hour) roundtrip trek leads around Lago
Roca’s forested northeast shore to Hito XXIV – veinticuatro in Spanish – the boundary
post that marks the Argentina–Chile frontier. It is illegal to cross the frontier, which is
patrolled regularly.
From the same trailhead you can reach Cerro Guanaco (973m) via the steep and
difficult 8km trail of the same name; it’s a long uphill haul but the views are excellent.
Senda Costera
This 8km (four-hour) trek leads west from Bahía Ensenada along the coastline. Keep an
eye out for old conchales (archaeologically important mounds of shells left by Yahgan
inhabitants), now covered in grass. The trail meets RN 3 a short way east of the park
administration (guardería) center at Lapataia. From here it is 1.2km further to Senda
Hito XXIV.
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego Par
It might be tempting to roll up the cuffs and go clamming, but be aware that occasion-
al marea roja (red tides) contaminate mollusks (such as clams and mussels) along the
shore of the Beagle Channel. This seasonal trail opens in December.
Senda Pampa Alta

The low heights of Pampa Alta (around 315m) grant long views across the Beagle Chan-
nel to Isla Navarino and Isla Hoste. RN 3 meets the trailhead 1.5km west of the Río Pipo
and Bahía Ensenada road turnoffs (3km from the entrance gate). The 5km roundtrip
trail first climbs a hill, passing a beaver dam along the way. Enjoy the impressive views
G e tt
at the lookout. A quick 300m further leads to a trail paralleling the Río Pipo and some
waterfalls.
q iung
e NTac
Laguna Negra
From the road 2km southwest of Lapataia, a trail leads north along the western side of
h ei r
Río Lapataia to a fishing spot opposite Isla El Salmón. Laguna Negra, a lovely lake in the
onal
forest, is easily accessible via a 1km circuit loop.

e & Away
T i e rra d e l F u e go
means sites can become unreasonably refugio dorm is available year-round except
messy. Do your part to take your trash out when weather prohibits transport to the
of the park and follow a leave-no-trace ethic. park. Both offer hot showers, a good con
Camping Ensenada is 16km from the park fitería (cafe offering light meals) and a tiny
entrance and nearest the Senda Costera (expensive) grocery store. There is plenty of
trail; Camping Río Pipo is 6km from the availability for camping at wild sites. Note
entrance and easily accessed by either the that water at Lago Roca is not potable; boil
road to Cañadon del Toro or the Senda Pam- it before using.
pa Alta trail. Camping Laguna Verde and
Camping Los Cauquenes are on the islands 88 Getting There & Away
in Río Lapataia. There are no amenities at Private tour buses cost AR$300 for a roundtrip.
any of the sites; contact the park visitor Taxi fares shared between groups can be the
center (p508) for more information. same price as bus tickets.
The only fee-based campground and The most touristy and, beyond jogging, the
refugio is Camping & Refugio Lago slowest way to the park, El Tren del Fin de
Roca (% 15-412649; campsites per person/dm Mundo (% 02901-431600; www.trendelfinde
US$10/22), 9km from the park entrance. The mundo.com.ar; adult/child plus park entrance
511
fee AR$500/100) originally carted prisoners to campground across the street with similar
work camps. It departs (without the convicts) whimsy on display, it’s a kick to take in.
from the Estación del Fin de Mundo, 8km west
of Ushuaia (taxis one way AR$120), three or four
times daily in summer and once or twice daily
4 Sleeping & Eating
in winter. Camping Hain CAMPGROUND $
(% 02964-15-603606; Lago Fagnano; camp-
The one-hour, scenic narrow-gauge train ride
comes with historical explanations in English site per person US$6, 3-/6-person refugio
and Spanish. Reserve in January and February, US$50/100) Located on Lago Fagnano,
when cruise-ship tours take over. You can take it with hot showers, grassy sites with wood-
one way and return via minibus, though the train en windbreaks, a huge barbecue pit and a
fee is the same one way or roundtrip. fogon (sheltered fire pit and kitchen area).
Hitchhiking is feasible, but many cars may There’s plenty of creative handiwork but
already be full. no internet by design: unplug and enjoy.
The owner can pick up guests from Pana
dería La Unión.
Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano Hostería Ruta Al Sur HOTEL $$
% 02901
(% 492278; www.rutalsur.com.ar; RN 3, Km2954;
Named for the Selk’nam word meaning ‘like d US$115; h mid-Oct–Apr; i W s ) Consider-
a heart,’ Tolhuin (population 2000) is a lake ing that it’s on the side of the main road,
town nestled in the center of Tierra del Fue- this lovely lodge surrounded by old beech
go, 132km south of Río Grande and 104km trees is a bit of a surprise. So is the uneven
northeast of Ushuaia via smooth asphalt. service. Confirm rates in advance since you
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego T
Muddy streets and clear-cut forests mark may be charged more as a foreigner (to be
this fast-growing frontier town that fronts fair, it has rates for Tierra del Fuego resi-
the eastern shore of Lago Fagnano, also dents and nonresidents). Rooms are spar-
known as Lago Kami. Lago Fagnano, with kling and there’s a sprawling living room
low-key horseback riding, mountain biking, as well as a restaurant that serves a basic
boating and fishing, is worth checking out breakfast.
as a tranquil lake spot.
Shared with Chile, the glacial-formed Panadería La Unión BAKERY $
Lago Fagnano offers 117km of beaches, with (% 02901-492202; www.panaderialaunion.com.ar;
S ol
most of its shoreline remote and roadless. Jeujepen 450, Tolhuin; snacks AR$20; h 24hr)
i g hhtusi n & L ago Fagnano

Plans to create road access from Chile and First-rate facturas (pastries) and second-rate
put a catamaran here are developing. instant cappuccinos keep this roadside at-
traction hopping. You may or may not rec-
1 Sights ognize the Argentine celebrities gracing the
Museo Histórico Kami MUSEUM walls (hint: the men are aging rock stars).
([email protected]; Lago Fagnano s/n; h 3-7pm Buses break here to pick up passengers and
Tue-Sun) F If you make one stop in Tol- hot water for mate (a bitter ritual tea).
huin, check out this museum, especially
worthwhile for Spanish speakers. A former 88 Information
1920s police post, the little house is now Tolhuin’s tourist office (% 492380, 492125;
dedicated to regional history, starting with www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/tolhuin; Av de los
the Selk’nam. One exhibit documents com- Shelknam 80; h 8am-10pm Mon-Fri), behind the
munity members’ stories of the still-recent gas station, has information on hiking, horse-
pioneer times. It’s next to Camping Hain, on back riding tours and gear rentals. Those com-
Lago Fagnano. Don’t be shy to ask for a tour. ing from Ushuaia might get more-complete info
from Ushuaia’s tourist office. Banco de Tierra
Parque Hain AMUSEMENT PARK del Fuego (Menkiol s/n) has an ATM.
(Parque de Diversiones Reciclado; Lago Fagnano
s/n; child/adult AR$50/20; h 9am-5pm) The
product of a creative mind that never sleeps, 88 Getting There & Away
this offbeat playground is styled entirely Throughout the day, buses and minivans passing
from recycled materials, namely 5000 wood- along RN 3 (often already full in high season)
en palettes, tires fashioned into playforms stop at Panadería La Unión en route to Ushuaia
and bottles forming decorative motifs. Cre- or Río Grande (AR$150).
ated by Roberto Barbel, who also owns the
512
2 Activities
R ío Grande Hollywood stars, heads of state and former
% 02964 / POP 66,500 US presidents all flock to desolate stretches
A monster trout sculpture at the entrance around Río Grande with dreams of the big
to town announces the de facto fly-fishing one. Usually they are in luck. Rivers around
capital of Tierra del Fuego, with world- Río Grande were stocked in the 1930s with
class blue-ribbon angling for colossal sea- brown, rainbow and brook trout. It’s now
run trout. But nonfishers will likely stay one of the world’s best sea-run trout-fishing
in windswept Río Grande for a few hours, areas, with some local specimens weighing
before hopping on a bus to Ushuaia, 230km in at 15kg. Rainbow trout can reach 9kg.
southwest. Fishing excursions are mostly organized
As wool baron José Menéndez’ sheep through outside agents, many in the US.
stations developed, Río Grande grew as a ‘Public’ fishing rivers, on which trips can
makeshift service town. In 1893 the Salesian be organized, include the Fuego, Menéndez,
order, under the guidance of Monseñor Fag- Candelaria, Ewan and MacLennan. Many of
nano, set up a mission in an unsuccessful the more elite angling trips are lodged in es
attempt to shelter the Selk’nam from the tancias (ranches) with exclusive use of some
growing infringement. As a petroleum ser- of the best rivers.
vice center, the town has an industrial feel: There are two types of fishing licenses.
even the public art looks like giant, grim License 1 is valid throughout the province,
tinker toys. Geared at the business traveler, except in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.
it’s also pricey for visitors. Duty-free sta- Contact Asociación Caza y Pesca (% 02901-
tus, meant to foster local development, has 422423; www.cazaypescaushuaia.org; Av Maipú
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego R
brought in electronics manufacturing plants 822) in Ushuaia (its website also has tidal
and wholesale appliance stores. During the charts), or Club de Pesca John Goodall
Falklands War the military played an im- (% 02964-15-503074; http://clubdepescatdf.blog
portant role here; memorials pay tribute to spot.com; Ricardo Rojas 606) in Río Grande. Li-
fallen soldiers. cense 2 is valid for Parque Nacional Tierra
ESTANCIAS AROUND RÍO GRANDE

A ct
í o iGvran
Much of Tierra del Fuego was once the sprawling backyard of wool baron José Menén-
dez. His first estancia – La Primera Argentina (1897), now known as Estancia José
i t i e ds e
Menéndez , 20km southwest of Río Grande via RN 3 and RC-b – covered 1600 sq km,
with more than 140,000 head of sheep. His second and most-treasured venture was La
Segunda Argentina, totaling 1500 sq km. Later renamed Estancia María Behety
(% in Buenos Aires 011-4331-5061; www.maribety.com.ar; 1 week per person from US$4295;
h Dec-Apr) after his wife, it’s still a working ranch, 17km west of Río Grande via RC-c.
Besides boasting the world’s largest shearing shed, it is a highly exclusive lodge, catering
to elite anglers eager to fish some of the world’s largest brown sea trout, which grow up
to 16kg (35lb). Two lodges accommodate up to 18 fly-fishers, the full quota for the river.
Several estancias have opened to small-scale tourism, offering a unique chance to
learn about the region’s history and enjoy its magic. Reserve as far in advance as possible.
The lauded Estancia Las Hijas (% 02901-15-554462, 02901-15-617022; www.estancia
lashijas.com.ar; RP16; per person overnight or day trip US$85, day trip incl transport $290) of-
fers small-scale family visits for small groups (inquire ahead since different parties can
combine). Indeed, they are known around these parts as ‘locos divinos’ (crazy but fun).
After horseback riding, rounding sheep and barbecues, guests stay in basic lodgings
with shared bathrooms. It’s located 33km north of Tolhuin, 7km in on the dirt road RP 16
(formerly ‘G’). If you go with transportation included (from Ushuaia or Río Grande), there
must be a minimum of two people. A stay includes dinner, breakfast and activities.
The rustic and charismatic Estancia Rolito (% 02901-437351, 02901-432419; www.
tierradelfuego.org.ar/rolito; RC-a, Km 14; s/d full board US$330/550) is very Argentine and very
inviting. Guests rave about the hikes through ñire and lenga forest. Day trips from Ushuaia
with Turismo de Campo (p500) stop by for lunch or dinner and activities. Rates are
based on double occupancy. Rolito is 100km from Río Grande and 150km from Ushuaia.
513
del Fuego and Patagonia. Contact the Na- plaza, with maps, estancia brochures and fish-
tional Parks Administration office (p507) in ing details.
Ushuaia or find more information on sport Mariani Travel (% 02964-426010; mariani@
fishing in Argentina through the online por- marianitravel.com.ar; Rosales 281) books flights
tal Pesca Argentina (www.pescaargentina.com. and represents nearby estancias.
ar). Other useful information:
Flies Rubber legs and wooly buggers. 88 Getting There & Away
License fees AR$270 per day or AR$1080 The airport (% 02964-420699; off RN 3) is a
per season, depending on where you fish. short taxi ride from town. Aerolíneas Argenti-
nas (% 02964-424467; Av San Martín 607) flies
Limit One fish per person per day, catch daily to Buenos Aires (one way from AR$2760).
and release. LADE (% 02964-422968; Lasserre 429) flies a
Methods Spinning and fly casting; no couple of times weekly to Río Gallegos, El Cala-
fate and Buenos Aires.
night fishing.
The following bus companies depart from
Season November 1 to April 15, with Terminal Fuegina (Finocchio 1194):
catch-and-release restrictions from April Buses Pacheco (% 02964-421554) Buses to
1 to April 15. Punta Arenas three times weekly at 10am.
Lider (% 02964-420003; www.lidertdf.com.ar;
4 Sleeping & Eating Av Belgrano 1122) Best option for Ushuaia and
Posada de los Sauces HOTEL $$
Tolhuin is this door-to-door minivan service,
(% 02964-432895; www.laposadadelossauces. with several daily departures. Call to reserve.
com; Elcano 839; d US$110; iW ) Catering to Montiel (% 02964-420997; 25 de Mayo 712)
Buses to Ushuaia and Tolhuin.
Ti e rr a d e l F u ego P
high-end anglers, Posada de los Sauces fos-
ters a lodge atmosphere, with fresh scents Taqsa/Marga (% 02964-434316) Buses to
Ushuaia via Tolhuin.
and woodsy accents.
Tecni-Austral (% 02964-430610; ticket office
Hotel Villa HOTEL $$ Moyano 516) Buses to Ushuaia via Tolhuin three
(% 02964-424998; [email protected]; Av times weekly at 8:30am; to Río Gallegos and
San Martín 281; d/tr US$70/77; i W ) Opposite Punta Arenas three times weekly.
Casino Status, Hotel Villa has a popular res- Buses from Río Grande
taurant, and a dozen spacious and stylish
Slueeerto
rooms. DESTINATION COST (AR$) TIME (HR)
Don Peppone ITALIAN $$ Punta Arenas, Chile 900 9
p i ng
(% 02964-432066; Perito Moreno 247; mains Río Gallegos 750 8
AR$100-135; h noon-midnight Tue-Sun) On week- W i&llEat
Tolhuin 150 2
ends there’s a dose of madness at Don Pep-
Ushuaia 240 4
i ami ng
pone, a busy pizzeria with gooey brick-oven

creations as well as a huge variety of pastas
s (C h i l e )
and meat dishes. Credit cards are accepted.

Tante Sara CAFE $$ P uerto Williams (Chile)
(Belgrano 402; mains AR$80-160; h 8am-1am Sun- % 061 / POP 2300
Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Hosting both ladies hav- Forget Ushuaia: the end of the world starts
ing tea and cake and boys at the varnished where colts roam Main St and yachts round-
bar downing beer and burgers, Tante Sara ing Cape Horn take refuge. Naval settlement
serves good cafe food, though service can be Puerto Williams is the only town on Isla
sluggish. Navarino, the official port of entry for ves-
sels en route to Cape Horn and Antarctica,
88 Information and home to the last living Yahgan speaker.
Just outside Puerto Williams is some
Most visitor services are along Avs San Martín
and Belgrano. For tourist information, visit
of the Southern Cone’s most breathtaking
Instituto Fueguino de Turismo (Infuetur; scenery. With more than 150km of trails,
% 02964-426805; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar; Isla Navarino is a rugged, backpackers’ par-
Av Belgrano 319; h 9am-9pm) on the southern adise, with slate-colored lakes, mossy lenga
side of the plaza, or the Municipal Tourist forests and the ragged spires of the Dientes
Kiosk (% 02964-431324; turismo@riogrande. de Navarino. Trails lead past beaver dams,
gob.ar; h 9am-8pm), a helpful kiosk on the bunkers and army trenches as they climb
514
steeply into the mountains and deeper into trail ascends steeply through lenga to blus-
forests. The beaver plague, introduced from tery stone-littered hillside planted with a
Canada in the 1940s, is diminishing due to Chilean flag.
an active eradication campaign.
Mid-19th-century missionaries, followed Lago Windhond HIKING
by fortune-seekers during the 1890s gold This remote lake is a lesser-known but
rush, established a permanent European worthy alternative to hiking the Dientes
presence here. The remaining mixed-race de Navarino circuit, with sheltered hiking
descendants of the Yahgan (Yámana) people through forest and peat bogs. The four-day
are established in the small seaside village roundtrip is a better bet if there are high
of Villa Ukika, a 15-minute walk east of town winds. For route details, ask at Turismo
along the waterfront. Shila (p515) or go with a guide.
1 Sights T Tours
Museo Martín Gusinde MUSEUM
Fuegia & Co TOUR
(cnr Araguay & Gusinde; donation requested; h 9am- (% cell 7876-6934; [email protected]; Ortiz 049)
1pm & 3-6:30pm Tue-Fri, 3-6:30pm Sat & Sun, reduced For guided trekking or logistical support,
hours off-season) An attractive museum honor- Denis Chevallay guides in French, German
ing the German priest and ethnographer who and English and has a wealth of botanical
worked among the Yahgans from 1918 to 1923. and historical knowledge. Guiding includes
The focus is on ethnography and natural his- porter support and a satellite emergency
tory. Public wi-fi is available in the library. phone. Day trips to archaeological sites are
available.
Club de Yates Micalvi LANDMARK

(h late Sep-May) A grounded German cargo 4 Sleeping & Eating
boat, the Micalvi was declared a regional Residencial Pusaki GUESTHOUSE $
naval museum in 1976 but found infinitely (% cell 9833-3248; [email protected]; Piloto Par-
better use as a floating bar, frequented by do 222; s/d CH$12,500/27,000) With legendary
navy men and yachties. Unfortunately, the warmth, Patty welcomes travelers into this
bar isn’t open to the general public. cozy home with comfortable, carpeted rooms
Yelcho LANDMARK
with private bathrooms. Patty also organizes
group dinners, which are open to nonguests.
S iugehrto
Near the entrance to the military quarters is

the original bow of the ship that rescued Er- Refugio El Padrino HOSTEL $
t s W i ll i am s (C h i l e )
nest Shackleton’s Antarctic expedition from (% 061-262-1136, cell 8438-0843; Costanera 276;
Elephant Island in 1916. camping per person CH$6000, dm CH$12,000)
Friendly and conducive to meeting others,
2 Activities this clean, self-service hostel doubles as a
Winter hikes are only recommended for social hub hosted by the effervescent Cecilia.
experienced mountaineers. For detailed The small dorm rooms are located right on
trekking routes, refer to Lonely Planet’s the channel.
Trekking in the Patagonian Andes.
Lakutaia Lodge HOTEL $$$
oDientes de Navarino HIKING (% 061-262-1733; www.lakutaia.cl; s/d/tr US$210/
This trekking circuit offers impossibly raw 265/315) About 3km east of town toward the
and windswept vistas under Navarino’s airport, this modern full-service lodge offers
toothy spires. Beginning at the Virgin altar respite in a lovely, rural setting. There is a
just outside town, the five-day, 53.5km route full-service restaurant and the library con-
winds through a spectacular wilderness of tains interesting history and nature refer-
exposed rock and secluded lakes. Fit hikers ences. Its only disadvantage is its isolation:
can knock it out in four days in the (relative- you might leave without getting much of a
ly) dry summer months. Markings are mini- feel for the quirky town.
mal: GPS, used in conjunction with marked
Puerto Luisa Cafe CAFE $
maps, is a handy navigational tool.
(% cell 9934-0849; Costanera 317; snacks CH$3000;
Cerro Bandera HIKING h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-8pm Sat Nov-Mar) Next
With expansive views of the Beagle Chan- to the dock, this welcoming haven offers es-
nel, this four-hour roundtrip covers the pressos, chocolates and pies in a cozy setting
first approach of the Navarino Circuit. The of oversized chairs with great sea views.
515
LAGO DESEADO & BEYOND

South of Camerón, access to Chilean Tierra del Fuego once petered out into stark, roadless
wilderness and the rugged Cordillera Darwin. But the Ministry of Public Works is working
hard to create access to these southern points and develop future tourism destinations.
Projects are under way to build a road to the new Parque Nacional Yendegaia, on the
island’s southern shore. It currently reaches Seno Almirantazgo in the Cordillera Darwin.
For now, there’s at least one worthy destination on the road. Lodge Deseado (% 061-
9165-2564; www.lodgedeseado.cl; 2-/3-person cabin US$310/370), on the lake of the same
name, marks a cozy spot to reel in wild trout, kick back in cool modern cabins and swap
stories with the engaging owner Ricardo. Transportation from Punta Arenas is available.
Weeklong packages visit major nature sights throughout Tierra del Fuego (including the
king penguin colony).
A 4WD is required for this remote region. A road now connects to the Argentine
side, with an official border crossing at mountain pass Río Bellavista (open only mid-
December through March).
El Alambique ITALIAN, PUB $ views on deck and the possibility of spotting

(% cell 5714-2087; Piloto Pardo 217; set menu dolphins or whales.
CH$5500; h noon-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 8pm-1am Tue- Aerovías DAP (% 061-262-1051; www.aerovias
Sat) Covered in murals, this homespun pub dap.cl; Plaza de Ancla s/n; one-way CH$75,000)
delivers good homemade pastas (and pizzas flies to Punta Arenas Monday to Saturday from
on all-you-can-eat Fridays). It’s the only November to March, with fewer winter options.
venue with a pub atmosphere at night. Often passengers are wait-listed until the com-
pany has enough bookings to run a flight; the
practice can be frustrating for visitors with little
88 Information extra time to spare. Note luggage restrictions
Near the main roundabout, the Centro Comercial when you purchase your ticket. DAP flights to
contains the post office, internet access, Aerovías Antarctica may make a brief stopover here.
DAP and call centers. ATM, money exchange (US Ushuaia Boating (% in Argentina 02901-
cash only, US$100 minimum) and Visa cash ad-
Informat
436-193; www.ushuaiaboating.com; one-way
O R VE N I R i(C
vances are possible at Banco de Chile. US$130; h service Mon-Sat) offers a sporadic
Municipal Tourist Information (% cell 8383- service which usually goes daily in high season
2080; www.ptowilliams.cl/Turismo.html; cnr with Zodiac boats. Tickets include a sometimes
Piloto Pardo & Arturo Prat; h 8am-1pm & 2-5pm bumpy and exposed 40-minute crossing plus
Mon-Fri) Offers city maps, day trek maps, as a 1½-hour overland transfer to/from Puerto
onHI L E )
well as weather and route conditions for the Navarino. Note: inclement weather often means
Lago Windhond and Dientes de Navarino treks. cancellations and indefinite postponement.
Located in a small kiosk.
Turismo Shila (% cell 7897-2005; www.turismo
shila.cl; O’Higgins 220) Very helpful stop for Porvenir (Chile)
trekkers. Offers local guides, camping rentals, % 061 / POP 5900
bicycle rentals (CH$5000 per day), snowshoes,
fishing gear and GPS maps. Also sells boat tick- If you want a slice of home-baked Fuegian
ets and can arrange charter flights to Ushuaia. life, this is it. Most visitors come on a quick
day trip from Punta Arenas tainted by sea-
88 Getting There & Away sickness. But spending a night in this rustic
village of metal-clad Victorian houses affords
Puerto Williams is accessible by plane or boat,
though the weather frequently causes delays. you an opportunity to explore the nearby
bays and countryside and absorb a little of
Transbordador Austral Broom (% 061-272-
8100; www.tabsa.cl) has a new ferry Patagonia the local life; bird-watchers can admire the
that sails from the Tres Puentes sector of Punta nearby king penguins, and lively populations
Arenas to Puerto Williams three or four times of cormorants, geese and seabirds. While
a month on Wednesday, with departures from known for inaccessibility (there’s no bus route
Puerto Williams back to Punta Arenas on Satur- here), the government is investing in com-
day (reclining seat/bunk CH$103,000/143,000 pleting roads through the southern extension
including meals, 38 hours). Travelers rave about of Chilean Tierra del Fuego, which will open
the trip: if the weather holds there are good up a whole untouched wilderness to visitors.
5 16
Porvenir experienced waves of immigra- Everything a B&B should be, with natural-
tion, many from Croatia, when gold was ist books (some authored by the owner) to
discovered in 1879. Sheep estancias provid- browse, abundant breakfast, views of the
ed more reliable work, attracting droves of strait, and spacious rooms with thick down
Chileans from the island of Chiloé, who also duvets. This historic Magellanic home (the
came for fishing work. Today’s population is first lodging in Porvenir) has been lovingly
a unique combination of the two. restored, and its family of hosts are helpful.
Its tour agency, Far South Expeditions , runs
1 Sights naturalist-led trips.
Museo de Tierra del Fuego MUSEUM The recently added cafe service features
(%061-258-1800; Jorge Schythe 71; admission espresso drinks, sandwiches and pizza.
CH$1000; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri,
Club Croata SEAFOOD $$
10:30am-1:30pm & 3-5pm Sat & Sun) On the
(% 061-258-0053; Señoret 542; mains CH$5000-
Plaza de Armas, this intriguing museum
10,000; h 11am-4pm & 7-10:30pm Tue-Sun) For-
has some unexpected materials, including
mal by tradition, the town’s most reliable
Selk’nam skulls and mummies, musical in-
restaurant serves good seafood at reasona-
struments used by the mission Indians on
ble prices. There are also Croat specialties,
Isla Dawson and an exhibit on early Chilean
such as pork chops with chucrut (sauer-
cinematography.
kraut). The pub is open to 3am.
T Tours 88 Information
Though little-known as a wildlife-watching
destination, Chilean Tierra del Fuego has Banco de Estado (cnr Philippi & Croacia) Has
a 24-hour ATM.
abundant marine and birdlife, which in-
cludes Peale’s dolphins around Bahía Chilo- Hospital (% 061-258-0034; Wood, btwn
Señoret & Guerrero)
ta and king penguins, found seasonally in
Bahía Inútil. This new king penguin colony Post Office (Philippi 176) Faces Plaza de
has created quite a stir, though the fragile Armas.
population has yet to have reproductive Tourist Office (% 061-258-0098, 061-258-
success. Make your visit with a reputable 0094; www.muniporvenir.cl; Zavattaro 434;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun)
agency, give penguins out of the fenced area
Information is also available at the handicrafts
S iOgRhVE
ample berth, and respect the nesting season. shop on the costanera (seaside road) between
Gold-panning, horseback riding and 4WD Philippi and Schythe.
t sN I R (C HI L E )
tours can be arranged through the tourist

office. 88 Getting There & Away
Far South Expeditions OUTDOORS A good gravel road runs east along Bahía Inútil
(www.fsexpeditions.com) Offers transport to the to the Argentine border at San Sebastián; allow
king penguin colony or guided naturalist-run about four hours. From San Sebastián (where
tours, with packages from Punta Arenas there’s gas and a motel), northbound motorists
available. should avoid the heavily traveled and rutted
truck route directly north and instead take the
4 Sleeping & Eating route from Onaisín to the petroleum company
town of Cerro Sombrero, en route to the cross-
Hotel Rosas GUESTHOUSE $ ing of the Strait of Magellan at Punta Delgada–
(% 061-258-0088; [email protected]; Philippi Puerto Espora.
296; s/d CH$23,500/34,000; W ) Eleven clean Aerovías DAP (% 061-261-6100; www.aero
and pleasant rooms offer heating and cable viasdap.cl; cnr Senoret & Philippi) flies to Punta
TV; some have wonderful views. Alberto, Arenas (CH$29,000, 15 minutes) Monday to
the owner, knows heaps about the region Saturday from November to March, with fewer
and arranges tours to Circuito del Loro, a flights in low season. Also provides local transfer
historical mining site. The restaurant (plato (CH$2000).
del día CH$6200), serving fresh seafood and Transbordador Austral Broom (% 061-
more, gets crowded for meals. 258-0089; www.tabsa.cl; passenger/vehicle
Porvenir-Punta Arenas CH$6200/39,800) has
oHostería Yendegaia B&B $$ a pedestrian and vehicle ferry service to Punta
(% 061-258-1919; www.hosteriayendegaia.com; Cro Arenas. Reserve vehicle spaces ahead in sum-
acia 702; s/d/tr CH$25,000/40,000/55,000; W ) mer high-season.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Includes  Why Go?

Best Places to Eat When to Go

Best Places -10/14 0

and boutiques in HOLLYWOOD st

6 Partying all night

Plaza de Mayo Reserva Ecológica

Loria Miserere BALVANERA Angelitos ¦

Av Belgrano Reserva Ecológica

BUENOS AIRES IN…

oCentro Cultural only as an institute for research and uni-

The Center, Congreso & San Telmo

Estados Unidos 106 #þ

Humberto Primo 102 þ

The Center, Congreso & San Telmo

æ Sights Ø Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Cabildo ......................................................F4 30 Academia Buenos Aires ......................... F4

55 Broccolino................................................. E1 81 Ávila Bar....................................................C4

able (call for schedules). (Map p58; % 011-4334-9386; Dique 3; admis-

interesting relics from Antarctica expedi­

BUENOS AIRES FOR FREE

uay unsafe for tourists

Suárez Quinquela Martín la

El Caminito Rocha unsafe for tourists

æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife

Clockwise from top left

AMILCAR ORFALI/STR/GETTY IMAGES © SUNSINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

riverside walk, El Caminito or La Bom- quense.com; Brandsen 805; admission AR$115-130;

See Palermo Map (p84)

Turismo # Dr Roja s Dársena

San Telmo Map (p58)

Retiro, Recoleta & Barrio Norte

BUENOS AIRES FOR CHILDREN

much smaller neighborhood to the north is (Map p84; % 011-4802-6606; www.mnad.

pleasantries as athlete’s foot or lice. (% 15-5773-1001; www.ba-walking-tours.com) Day

Spanglish LANGUAGE COURSE Buenos Tours WALKING TOUR

though many fancier places offer continen-

SHORT- & LONG-TERM RENTALS

Portal del Sur HOSTEL $ V & S Hostel Club HOSTEL $

furniture, flat-screen TVs, small kitchens

bathtub, so instead of taking a soak enjoy (Map p70; % 011-4312-6082; www.hotel3

STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES ©

ANTON PETRUS/GETTY IMAGES ©

La Boca’s most famous street contains

2. Puerto Madero (p60)

3. Parque 3 de Febrero (p71)

4. Teatro Colón (p62)

Jacuzzi, Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-­

do ica000 0 0 0 0 tes Gallardo

0000 00 0000 0000 00

See Retiro, Recoleta & Barrio Norte Map (p70)

See The Center, Congreso

& San Telmo Map (p58)

Valentín Góme Pasteur

3 Centro Islámico Rey Fahd ..................... D2 24 Mansilla 3935 B&B.................................. E4

comfortable and one has a private terrace. 5 Eating

43 La Cabrera ............................................... C4 67 Sitges ........................................................D6

blogs in English there are www.saltshaker. (Map p58; % 011-4342-0788; www.vitamarket.

promenade are great for people-­ watching.

interesting relics from Antarctica expedi

Jacuzzi, Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-

promenade are great for people- watching.

B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife

B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife

B u e n os Ai re s D rinking & N ig h tlife

B u e n os Ai re s G etting T h ere & Away

mains AR$100-150; h noon-3:30pm & 7pm-