1945-1946 350cc Model CO

ROYAL ENFIELD 350cc O.H.V.
WORKSHOP MANUAL
WORKSHOP
MAINTENANCE MANUAL
FOR THE
ROYAL ENFIELD
w
350 c.c. O.H.V.

w
w
MOTOR CYCLES
.h
itc
MODELS CO,WD/CO
hc
and WD/CO/B
oc
ks
m
ot
HITCHCOCK’S MOTORCYCLES
or
ROSEMARY COURT
cy
OLDWICH LANE WEST

cl
CHADWICK END
es.
SOLIHULL
co
B93 0EY ENGLAND

m
Telephone 01564 783 192

Fax 01564 783 313
e-mail: [email protected]
Web: hitchcocksmotorcycles.com Page 1
ROYAL ENFIELD 350cc O.H.V. WORKSHOP MANUAL
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 2
CONTENTS
Para Page Para. Page
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS .......... .......... 4 CARBURETTOR 51-53 27
PERIODICAL ATTENTIONS .......... .......... 4 Adjusting Slow Running 51 27
DATA .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... .......... 5, 6 Dismantling Carburettor 52 27
LIST OF TOOLS ............. .......... .......... .......... 6 Causes of High Petrol Consumption 53 27
ENGINE ................. .......... .......... .......... .......... 1-26 7 LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEM 54-103 29
Decarbonising ............ .......... .......... .......... 1-9 7 Magneto 54-67 29
Removal of Cylinder Head .......... ......... 1 7 Lubrication of Contact Breaker Mechanism 54 29
Removal of Cylinder and Piston .......... ......... 2 7 Cleaning Contact Breaker 55 59
Removal of Valves .......... .......... ......... 3 7 Adjustment of Contact Breaker 56 29
Removal of Carbon .......... .......... ......... 4 7 H.T. Cable 57 29
Piston and Rings .......... .......... ......... 5 8 H.T. Pick Up 58 29
Big-end Bearing ............. .......... .......... ......... 6 8 Suppressor and Immobilizer 59 29
w
Small-end Bearing .......... .......... .......... ......... 7 8 Magneto Drive 60 29

Valves, Springs and Guides .......... ......... 8 8 Timing Ignition 61 30
w
Reassembly of Engine .......... .......... ......... 9 9 Removal and Replacement of Magdyno 62 30

Timing Gear ............. .......... .......... .......... 10-12 9 Slipping Clutch 63 30
w
Valve Timing .................. .......... .......... ..... 10 9 Dismantling Magneto 64 30

Magneto Timing ............ .......... .......... ..... 11 9 Test and Repair of Magneto 65 31
.h
Tappet Adjustment .......... .......... ..... 12 10 Reassembly of Magneto 66 31

Complete Overhaul ............. .......... .......... ..... 13-22 10 Reassembling and Testing Slipping Clutch 67 32
Removal of Engine from Frame .......... 13 10 Sparking Plug 68, 69 32
itc
Dismantling the Crankcase .................. .......... 14 11 Dismantling, Cleaning and Setting 68 32

Removal of Tappets and Guides .......... 15 12 Testing 69 32
Dismantling Flywheels ............. .......... .......... 16 12 Charging Circuit 70 32
hc
Connecting Rod ............. .......... .......... .......... 17 12 Dynamo 71-81 34

Removal of and Replacing Mainshafts ........... 18 13 Removal 71 34
Reassembly of Flywheels .................... .......... 19 13 Dismantling 72 34
oc
Removal of Crankcase Main Bearings ............. 20 15 Cleaning Commutator and Brushes 73 34

Replacing Crankcase Main Bearings ........... 21 15 Making Connections to Dynamo or
Reassembly of Crankcase ................................ 22 15 Regulator Terminals 74 34
ks
Lubrication System ............ ........... ............... 23-26 17 Treatment of Badly Worn Commutator 75 35
Principle of Operation .......... ........... .................... 23 17 Sticking Brushes 76 35
Reasons for Excessive Consumption .......... 24 17 Worn Brushes 77 35
m
Replacing Pump Discs .............. .................... 25 18 Test and Replacement of Field Coil 78 35
Draining System ............. .......... .................... 26 18 Test of Armature 79 36
TRANSMISSION ............. .......... .......... ............... 27-37 19 Special Attention if Water has entered
ot
Gearbox ......... ........... .......... .......... ............... 27-31 19 Dynamo 80 36

Removal of Gearbox from Frame ........... 27 19 Reassembly of Dynamo 81 36
Removal of Gears and Shafts ........................... 28 19 Regulator and Cut-Out 82-87 36
or
Removal of Ball Races .............. ..................... 29 21 Description 82 36

Foot Change Ratchet Mechanism ........... 30 21 Adjustment 83 36
cy
Reassembly of Gearbox ............ ..................... 31 21 Cleaning Contacts 84 36

Clutch ............ ........... .......... .......... .............. 32, 33 22 Mechanical Setting 85 36
Dismantling and Reassembly of Clutch 32 22 Adjustment of Cut-Out 86 37
cl
Adjustment of Clutch Control ..................... 33 22 Regulators for use with NIFE Batteries 87 37
Chains ............ .......... .......... .......... ................ 34-37 23 Ammeter 88, 89 37
Lubrication ..... .......... .......... .......... ..................... 34 23 Removal and Replacement 88 37
e
Tensioning ...... .......... .......... .......... ..................... 35 23 Ammeter Faults 89 37

s.
Limits of Wear .............. .......... ..................... 36 23 Battery 90-94 37

Removal, Repair and Replacement .......... 37 23 Topping Up 90 37
WHEELS .............. .......... .......... .......... ................ 38-44 23 Checking Conditions 91 37
co
Removal and Replacement ..................... 38 23 Cleaning 92 37

Tyres ................... .......... .......... ..................... 39 23 Earthing Connections 93 37
Rims ................... .......... .......... ..................... 40 24 Charging 94 38
m
Spokes ................ .......... .......... ..................... 41 24 Headlamp 95-98 38

Brakes ................. .......... .......... ..................... 42 24 Removing Lamp Front and Reflector 95 38
Wheel Bearings .......... ..................... 43 24 Setting and Focussing 96 38
Cush Drive Rubbers .......... ..................... 44 25 Cleaning 97 38
FRAME AND FORK ...... .......... .......... ................ 45-50 25 Bulbs 98 38
Alignment of Wheels 45 25 Tail Lamp 99 38
Adjustment of Fork Links 46 25 Cables 100 38
Worn Swivel Pins or Bushes 47 25 Lighting Switch 101 39
Adjustment of Steering Head 48 26 Electric Horn 102, 103 39
Dismantling and Reassembling Steering General 102 39
Head 49 27 Method of Adjusting 103 39
Steering Damper 50 27 LUBRICATION CHART 40
INDEX 50, 51
SUPPLEMENT FOR BURMAN GEAR BOX 41-49. Page 3

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Fig. Fig.
No. ...................................................................................... Page No. ...................................................................................... Page
Engine. Exploded View ... ... ... 2 30 Section Through Gear Box ............. ... ....... ... ....... ... ... 20
1 Method of Removal of Valve End Caps ............... ... 7 31 Drift for Removing Gear Box Ball Race ............... ... ... 21
2 Use of Terry Type Valve Spring Compressor 7 32 Drift for Removing Gear Box Cover Ball Race ..... ... ... 21
3 Bench Type Valve Spring Compressor ................ ... .... . 7 33 Drift for Refitting Gear Box Ball Race ................. ... ... 21
4 Tool for Removing Old and Inserting New Bush in 34 Drift for Refitting Gear Box Cover Ball Race ....... ... ... 21
Connecting Rod .................... ... ....... .......... ... ....... 8 35 Detail of Foot Gear Change ....................... ... ....... .. .... 22
5 Correct and Incorrect Cutting of Valve Seats .................. 8 36 Adjustment of Clutch Control .................... ... ....... ... ... 22
6 Detail of Joints in Push Rod Enclosure Tubes ................. 9 37 Drift for Refitting Rear Hub Bearings .................. . . 24
7 Valve Timing Marks ............ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 9 38 Drift for Refitting Front Hub Bearings .................. ... 24
w
8 Loosening Magneto Pinion ............. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 10 39 Detail of Fork and Steering Head Adjustments 26
9 Adjusting Tappets ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 10
10 Engine Sprocket Extractor .............. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 10 40 Section of Amal Carburettor ...................... ... ....... ... ... 28
w
11 Clutch Centre Extractor .................. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 11 41 Contact Breaker Mechanism Cover Removed ... ... 29
12 Engine Ready for Removal from Frame...... ... ... ... ......... 11 42 H.T. Pickup ............... ... .................. ... ....... ... ....... ... ... 29
w
13 Pump Worm Extractor .................... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 12 43 Assembly of Felt Gland on Magdyno Spindle ... ... 29
14 Flywheel Assembly jig ................... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 12 44 Detail of Magneto Earth Brush .................. ... ....... ... ... 30
45 Exploded View of Magneto ....................... ... ....... ... ... 30
.h
15 Dismantling Flywheels in Vice ....... .......... ... ....... ... ....... 12

16 Separating Flywheels ........... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 13 46 Use of Jig for Magneto Slipping Clutch ... ... 30
17 Test Bars and Gauge for Checking Connecting Rods 47 Tool for Removing Magneto Armature Bearings ........ 31
itc
for " Bend " ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 13 48 Mandrel for Replacing Magneto Armature Bearings .... 31
18 " Knife Edges " for Testing Connecting Rods for 49 Contact Breaker Body and Tappet ... ....... ... ... 31
" Twist " ..................... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 14 50 Contact Breaker End Plate ... ....... ... ... 31
hc
19 Assembling Flywheels in Vice .................. ... ....... ... ....... 15 51 Magneto Slipping Clutch ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ... 32
20 Drift for Removing Timing Side Bush and Roller 52 Wiring Diagram .............................. ... ....... ... ....... ... ... 33
Race ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 15 53 Connections to Voltage Regulator ... ....... ... ... 34
54 Exploded View of Dynamo ... ....... ... ... 35
oc
21 Mandrel for Fitting Crankcase Main Bearings ................. 15

22 Use of Mandrel for Fitting Crankcase Main Bearings ....... 15 55 Undercutting Mica .......... ...... 35
23 Feed Pump ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 16 56 Testing Brush Springs for Tension 35
24 Return Pump ............. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 16 57 Commutator and Brush Gear ... ... ... 35
ks
25 Oil Circulation Diagram ................. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 17 58 Voltage Regulator Adjustments ... ... ... 37
26 Ball Valve in Oil Return Passage ... ....... ... ....... 17 59 Headlamp. Reflector partially Removed ... 38
27 Tool for Lapping Pump Discs ... ....... ... ....... 18 60 Tail Lamp. Cap Removed ... ... ... 38
m
28 Detail of Felt Oil Cleaner ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... 18 61 Electric Horn ... ... ... ... ... .. 39
29 Removal of Gear Box End Cover .............. ... ....... ... ....... 19 Lubrication Chart ... ... ... ... ... 40
ot
ILLUSTRATIONS IN SUPPLEMENT.
or
62 Exploded View of Clutch ................................................. 42 67 Drift for Refitting Mainshaft Ball Bearing . 45
63 Drift for Removing Driving Gear Bearing ....................... 43 68 Drift for Refitting Driving Gear Bearing ... 45
64 Drift for Removing Mainshaft Ball Bearing .................... 43
cy
69 Exploded View of Camshaft ... ... ... 46

65 Drift for Removing or Refitting Layshaft Bushes ............. 43 70 Exploded View of Foot Change Mechanism ... 47
66 Burman Gear Box ............................................................ 44 71 Exploded View of Kickstarter Mechanism ... 48
cl
PERIODICAL ATTENTIONS
e s.
EVERY 2,000 MILES Clean thoroughly, taking care not to allow oil to reach
Drain engine oil from tank and engine sump when warm, i.e., rubber sealing band. Refit and fill up to level of overflow
co
after a run, and refill. See Para. 26. On new and plug. See Para 34.
reconditioned engines this operation must be carried out
after the first 500 miles. Magdyno. Insert a few drops of light machine oil in the
Rear Chain. Remove for cleaning and attention. See Para. 34 lubricator in the end cap of the dynamo.
m
Magneto. The wick lubricating the contact breaker face cam

EVERY 5,000 MILES should be recharged with lubricant. See Para. 54.
Engine Oil Filter. A new felt element must be fitted. See
Para. 26. Steering Head. The steering head races should be dismantled
Gear Box. Drain when warm, i.e., after a run and refill to and reassembled with fresh grease.
correct level. See Para. 31. Drain plug is underneath
gearbox. Brakes. These should be dismantled, cleaned and have the
Chain Case. Drain chain case by unscrewing left foot rest nut operating cams greased. See Para. 42.
and pulling off foot rest and outer half of chain case.
Page 4
DATA
ROYAL ENFIELD 350 c.c. O.H.V. MOTOR CYCLE
ENGINE. TRANSMISSION.
Cubic Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ... 346 c.c. Sprockets-Engine ...................... ... ... 19 T. 1/2 in. P. X .305 in. W,
Stroke ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 90 m.m. Clutch ..................... ... ... 42 T. 1/2 in. P. X .305 in. W.
Bore ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 70 m.m. Countershaft ... ... 18 T. 5/8 in. P. X .380 in. W.
(2.751 in. ± .00025 in.) Rear Wheel ............. ... ... 46 T. 5/8 in. P. X .380 in. W.
w
(Rebore to •015 in. when wear exceeds .008 in. and again to Chains-Front ... ... 74 pitches 1/2 in. P. X .305 in. W.
.030 in. after further .008 in. wear.) Rear ... ... 89 pitches 5/8 in. P. X .380 in. W.
w
Compression Ratio ................... .......... ... ........ ... ....... ...5.3/4 to 1 Chain Adjustment-Front ... ....... ... ....... ... ......... 1/4 in. slack.
Piston Diameter: Rear ... ....... ... ....... ... ......... 1/2 in. slack.
w
Bottom of Skirt
Fore and Aft ... ....2.748in. ± .00025 in. Gear Ratios First ... ....... ... ....... ... ........... 18.6 to 1
Second ... ....... ... ....... ... ........... 11.2 to 1
.h
Sides ....... .......... ... ....2.740in. ± .00025 in.

Top of Skirt Third ... ....... ... ....... ... ........... 7.9 to 1
Fore and Aft ... ....2.745 in. ± .00025 in. Top .............. ... ....... ... ....... ... ........... 5.65 to 1
itc
Sides ....... .......... ... ....2.737in. ± .00025 in. Clutch Thrust Rod Length ... ....... ... ....... ... . long part 93/8 in.
Top Lands ...................... ... ....2.7285 in. ± .0005 in. short part 17/8 in.
Piston Ring Dimensions- Clearance in Clutch Control ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ...... 1/16 in.
hc
Width-Plain Rings ... ................... ... ....1/16 in.

Scraper Ring ... ................... ... ....5/32 in. Gear Box Ball Bearings-
Radial Thickness .......... ... .119 in. ± .004 in. Large Internal Dia. 30 m.m.
oc
Gap when in unworn cyl. .011 in. to .015 in. External Dia. 62 m.m.
Clearance in grooves .................................................. . .003 in. Width 16 m.m.
Small Internal Dia. 5/ in.
Oversize Pistons and Rings available. 8
ks
Piston Boss Internal Diameter ............. .. .7500 in. - .7495 in. External Dia. 113/16 in.
5
Gudgeon Pin Diameter ............. .......... .. .7500 in. - .7495 in. Width /8 in.
Small End Bush Internal Diameter Gear Box Layshaft Bearings (reamered after fitting)
m
(fine bored or reamered after fitting) .7507 in. - .7505 in. Left side Internal Dia. 1.001 in. – 1.000 in.
Big End Bush Internal diameter Right side Internal Dia. .7195 in. – .7185 in.
Kickstarter Shaft Bearing Internal Dia. 1.1255 in. – 1.1250 in.
ot
(ground after fitting) ........................ ... ....1.625 in. ± .00025 in.

Crank Pin Diameter .................. ... ....... ... 1.249 in. – 1.24875 in.
Main Bearing Outer Race inside diameter
or
(before fitting) ............ ... ....... ... ...... .. 1.3752 in. – 1.3750 in.
Timing Side Bush inside diameter
(reamered after fitting) ... ...... ... .877 in. - .875 in. FRAME AND WHEELS.
cy
Driving Side Shaft Diameter ... ...... ... .8750 in. - .8745 in.
Timing Side Shaft Diameter ... ...... ... .8750 in. - .8745 in.
Wheel Hub Ball Races
cl
Roller Diameter .............. ... ....... ... ...... . .2500 in. - .2490 in.
(Graded to nearest .0001 in. and selective assembly used.) Front-Internal Diameter 12 m.m.
Rocker Bearing inside diameter .6255 in. - .6250 in External Diameter 37 m.m.
e
Width... ... ... 12 m.m.

Rocker Diameter ............ ... ....... ... ...... ... .6240 in. - .6235 in. 5/ in.
Rear-Internal Diameter
s.
8
Valve Guide inside diameter (before fitting) .3447 in. - .3437 in.
Valve Stem Diameter-Inlet .................. ... .3435 in. - .3425 in. External Diameter 113/16 in.
Width... ... ... 5/ in.
8
Exhaust ................................................. ... .3415 in. - .3405 in.
co
Valve Tappet Clearance (with cold engine) Inlet .002 in.

Exhaust .004 in. Wheel Rim Size ... W.M.2-19in. for 3.25-19 in. Tyre.
Valve Timing at .005 in. tappet clearance Front and rear rims interchangeable.
m
Exhaust opens 75° before b.d.c.

Exhaust closes 35° after t.d.c. Wheel Spokes
Inlet opens 30° before t.d.c. Front, near side ... ... 61/2 in. long 8-10g butted.
Inlet closes 60° after b.d.c. Front, off side ............. ... ... 83/4 in. long 8-10g butted.
Valve Spring Free Length (outer and inner) 1.3/4 in. Rear, near side ........... ... ... 73/4 in. long 8-10g butted.
(Renew valve spring when free length is reduced by 1/8 in.) Rear, off side .............. ... ... 81/2 in. long 8-10g butted.
Cam Bush inside diameter (reamered Spoke lengths measured under head.
after fitting) ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... .6255 in. - .6250 in. Nipples are .140 in. dia. x 40 T.P.I.
Idler Pinion Bush inside diameter (reamered
after fitting) .................... ... ....... ... ....... ... .502 in. - .501 in. Cush Drive, allowable free movement at wheel rim when rear
Cam Spindle .................. ... ....... ... ....... ... .6245 in. - .6235 in. brake is on ... ... ... 1/2 in. to 1 in.
Idler Pinion Spindle .. ....... ... ....... ... .49925 in. - .49825 in. Steering Head Balls ... ... 1/4 in. dia. 38 to set (19 each race).
Page 5
DATA-continued
CARBURETTER.
Sparking Plug-Size ................... ... ....... ... ... 14 m.m. 1/2 in. reach.
Type and Number .......... .......... ... ....... .......... Amal. 276 AC/1A Type .......................................... ... ....... ... ..... Lodge C.14 Sintox.
Main Jet Size .................. ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ........ 130 ................................................... .......... ....... or Champion L.10S.
Throttle Valve ................ ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ........ 6/4 Gap Setting ............................... .......... ... .018 in. to .020 in.
Taper Needle located by clip in third notch from top.
w
w
IGNITION. GENERAL.
w
Contact Breaker Maximum opening ... ... ... .012 in. Petrol Tank Capacity 23/4 gallons (including 1/4 gallon reserve).
.h
Ignition Setting ... ... ... ... 3/ in. before t.d.c.

8 Oil Tank Capacity ... ... ... ... ... 4 pints.
= 34° advance. Gear Box Capacity ... ........ .. ....... ... ....... ... ....... ... ... 3/4 pint.
itc
TOOLS SUPPLIED WITH MACHINE

hc
oc
TOOL ROLL AND CONTENTS

ks
No. per Part Description. No. per Part Description.

Set No. Set No.
m
1 29044 Double-ended Spanner-Engineers' Patt. 1 28996 Swivel Pin and Chain Adjuster Spanner
(1/4" x 5/16" Whit.) (to fit 5/16" square).
1 2976 (3/8" x 7/16" Whit.) 1 16008 Magneto Spanner (.255" x .283" hex.
ot
1 24092 .380" x .343" hex. with .012" feeler).

-also .380" sq.) 1 29101 Pump Cover Pin Spanner (.255" hex.
or
2 24096 (3/16" x 1/4" Whit.) with .018" feeler).

1 28976 Tubular Spanner (1/4" Whit.) 1 4272 Tyre Lever (cranked type).
(For Cylinder base nuts) 2 4272A Tyre Levers (spoon type).
cy
1 16594 (9/16" Whit.) 1 3482 Screwdriver, 6", wire.

1 21166 (7/16" Whit.) 1 14835 Extractor Nut (Dynamo Pinion).
1 24094 (11/16" Whit.) 1 16014 Grease Gun.
cl
1 29043 (3/16" Whit.) 1 16007 Tool Roll (with strap-less tools).

1 24097 (5/16" x 3/8" Whit.) 4 25861 Hallite Washers for Push Rod Tubes.
e
1 29042 Tommy Bar (Bent)

s.
co
SUPPLEMENTARY KIT
m
1 27528 Oil Can. 1 27388 Chain Rivet Extractor.

1 27389 Oil Funnel. 1 27387 Tyre Repair Outfit.
1 27575 Pliers, 7". 1 29382 Box of Spare Links (5/8" pitch chain).
1 27574 Adjustable Spanner, 7". 1 27383 Packet of insulating Tape.
1 27576 Screwdriver, 6". 2 27386 Leather Straps.
Page 6
ENGINE
DECARBONISING. conical collars and release the springs, when the valve
1. Removal of Cylinder Head. can be withdrawn. Fig. 2 shows a Terry compressor in
Decarbonising will normally be necessary use, Fig. 3 a special type suitable for a large
approximately every 2,000 miles and can be carried workshop. Keep the split conical collars and the top
out without removal of the engine from the frame. spring collars paired up with their respective valves
First remove the petrol pipe and the four bolts and replace in the same positions when reassembling.
underneath the tank which secure it to the brackets
and remove the tank. (If necessary the front saddle
attachment bolt must be removed.) Next remove the
w
cover over the valve gear, the carburetter, exhaust pipe

and silencer. Remove the rocker bearing caps and
w
rockers and lift the push rods out of their tubes (if the
collar on the exhaust push rod will not clear the joint
between the cylinder head and the barrel, leave this
w
rod in position until after the head has been lifted off).
The cylinder head can then be lifted off after
.h
unscrewing the four nuts which secure it to the

cylinder.
itc
2. Removal of Cylinder and Piston.

While it is not strictly necessary to remove the
cylinder barrel and piston, this should preferably be
hc
done so that the condition of the piston, rings and

big-end bearing can be examined. To remove the
cylinder barrel after removal of the head, unscrew the
oc
five cylinder base nuts, (the fifth nut is inside the

tappet chest between the two tappets). Disconnect the
exhaust lifter cable from the handlebar lever, place the
piston at the bottom of its stroke and lift the barrel off.
ks
To remove the piston, push out the gudgeon pin, after 4. Removal of Carbon.
removal of the wire retaining clips with a suitable tool Remove carbon from the valves, ports and
(such as the tang end of a small file) and lift the piston combustion chamber by scraping or by immersion in a
m
off the rod. Mark the piston so as to ensure solution of 4 ozs. of commercial potash to a gallon of
reassembling the same way round. water. Carefully remove the piston rings. Remove
carbon from the ring grooves and the top of the piston
ot
by carefully scraping, taking care not to dig into the

3. Removal of Valves. aluminium. On no account allow potash solution to
come into contact with an aluminium piston.
or
To remove the valves from the cylinder head,

first lift off the hardened end caps from the valve
stems. If these have stuck, they can be removed by
cy
compressing the spring slightly and gripping the end

cap in a vice (see Fig. 1 ). Then compress the valve
springs with a suitable compressor, lift out the split
cl
e s.
co
m
Page 7
5. Piston and Rings. renewed if worn, using a draw bolt as shown in Fig. 4,
If the piston rings are in good condition they can both for withdrawing the old bush and fitting the new
be replaced, taking care to fit them in their original one. After fitting, the bush must be reamered, the size
grooves and the same way up. If the rings show brown to suit a new gudgeon pin being .7507 - .7505 in.
or black patches on their working faces or if their gaps 8. Valves, Springs and Guides.
when in position in the barrel are more than 1/16 in. Wear on the valve stems can be seen on
new rings should be fitted. The correct gap for new examination and if a definite step has formed the
rings is .011 - .015 in. The gap should be measured in valves should be renewed. Test the valve guides for
the least worn part of the cylinder which will be found wear by trying the fit of a new valve in them. Both
to be at the extreme top or bottom of the bore. valves should be quite free, but the exhaust valve has
The original size of the cylinder bore is 2.751 in. .002 in. more clearance than the inlet valve. The
If the wear at any point in the bore exceeds .008 - guides are removed by knocking or pressing them out
.010 in. the cylinder should be rebored and an from inside the head using a drift 9/16 in. maximum
w
oversize piston fitted. Pistons are available in various diameter with one end reduced to 21/64 in. diameter,
oversizes. The original diameter of the piston skirt, supporting the head on a tube 13/16 in. inside
w
measured fore and aft, is 2.748 in. at the bottom and diameter 2 ins. long slipped over the collar on the
2.745 in. at the top. Diameters parallel to the gudgeon guide. The same drift can be used for fitting the new
w
pin are .008 in. less. The original side clearance guide. Check the length of the valve springs which are
between the piston rings and the grooves is .003 in. If originally 1.3/4 ins. for both outer and inner springs.
the piston skirt or the grooves show .005 in. wear the If these have closed more than 1/8 in. they should be
.h
piston should be replaced. renewed.

6. Big End Bearing. Before replacing the valves they must be ground
itc
While the piston is removed examine the on to their seats. If good faces are not formed with a
condition of the bigend. This should have about .010 - reasonable amount of grinding the seats must be cut
.020 in. side play and it will be possible to rock the with a cutter (included angle 90°) and the valve
hc
connecting rod slightly. The big-end is a plain bearing refaced in a Universal Grinder, or if this is not
and has an original clearance of approximately .003 available by spinning in a chuck and holding a strip of
in. which is rather more than is usual with a roller emery cloth on the back of a file at 45° to the valve
bearing. If, however, definite up and down play can stem. Do not attempt to form good seats by an
oc
be felt the engine should be stripped further to have excessive amount of grinding. This will cause
the big-end renewed. pocketing which restricts the flow of the gases (see
7. Small End Bearing. Fig. 5). If a pocket has already been formed this must
ks
The gudgeon pin should be a push fit in the piston be removed by cutting with a valve seat cutter larger
(when cold) and a free working fit (.001 in. clearance) in diameter than the valve head. Do not interchange
in the small end bush. The small end bush can be
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
co
m
INSERTING NEW BUSH

CORRECT AND INCORRECT
TOOL FOR REMOVING OLD AND INSERTING NEW
CUTTING OF VALVE SEATS
BUSH IN SMALL END OF CONNECTING ROD Fig. 5
Fig. 4
Page 8
the inlet and exhaust valves, as there is a difference TIMING GEAR.

of .002 in. in the stem diameter.
10. Valve Timing.
Access to the timing gear is obtained by removal
of the timing cover after unscrewing the nine nuts
securing it. About half a pint of oil will run out of the
9. Reassembly of Engine after Decarbonising. timing case. The cam wheels and magdyno drive idler
When reassembling the engine, take great care to pinions can now be pulled off their spindles, having
have all parts perfectly clean and put clean oil on the first turned the engine so that both valves are closed.
piston, particularly round the rings. The cylinder base Correct timing is obtained when the tooth on the
joint must be made with a paper washer which must exhaust cam wheel having two dots on it meshes with
have a small hole in it registering with the oil feed to the space having two dots on the small timing pinion,
the back of the cylinder. The cylinder head joint may while at the same time the tooth having one dot on the
w
be made with the old copper washer which, however, inlet timing wheel meshes with the space having one
should preferably be annealed by heating to red heat dot on the exhaust timing wheel (see Fig. 7). In case
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
DETAIL OF JOINTS IN PUSH ROD VALVE TIMING MARKS

ENCLOSURE TUBES
or
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
cy
the two dots on the small timing pinion are covered by

one corner of the hexagon on the oil pump driving
then quenching. New Hallite washers painted with worm, note that when the piston is at the top of the
cl
gold size or shellac should be fitted to make the joints compression stroke, the single dots on the timing
in the push rod enclosure tubes (see Fig. 6). When wheels lie on the line joining the centres of the two
cam spindles. When replacing the magdyno drive
e
tightening down the cylinder base nuts, work

diagonally from one to another to ensure pulling the idler pinions note that there is a hardened steel washer
s.
base down dead level. When tightening down the on either side of each pinion and that the deeper boss
cylinder head nuts put pressure first of all on the two on the pinion is outwards. If the cam wheels have thin
at the push rod side of the engine so as to ensure shims on either side take care to replace these on the
co
compressing the push rod enclosure tube washers same spindles.

thoroughly and bringing even pressure on the copper
head gasket. When replacing the valve rockers and
m
caps put a little oil on each rocker and make sure that 11. Magneto Timing.
the rocker is free after the cap has been tightened The magneto timing is not marked and must be
down. If necessary, a sharp tap on the end of the set as follows:- Unscrew the nut which holds the
rocker will usually free it. Excessive play in the timing pinion on to the magdyno shaft. Then screw
rocker bearings can be taken up by grinding a little the pinion extractor (supplied in the tool kit) into the
metal from the lower face of the hardened cap. Very centre of the timing pinion, thus loosening it from its
little grinding is required and not more than .001 in. taper (see Fig. 8). Remove the extractor, set the
should be taken off at a time. When replacing the engine so that the piston is at the top of its
rocker box cover, a new joint washer should be used. compression stroke (seen by removal of the cylinder
The cylinder head and base nuts should be head or gauged by means of a narrow rule or timing
checked again for tightness, after the engine has stick passed through the sparking plug hole), see that
been run long enough to get it thoroughly warm. the contact points open to the correct figure of .012 in.
Page 9
12. Tappet Adjustment.

Access to the tappet adjustment is obtained by
removing the inspection cover from the side of the
cylinder. The exhaust tappet should have .004 in.
clearance; the inlet .002 in., when the engine is cold.
Owing to the ball and socket joint at the bottom of the
push rods it is not possible to use feelers at these
points. To check the clearance accurately the rocker
box cover must be removed and the feelers applied
between the ends of the valve stems and the rockers.
With a little experience, however, the correct tappet
clearance can be obtained by feel, the inlet push rod
being just free while the exhaust has perceptible up
w
and down clearance.

To make the adjustment (see Fig. 9) hold the
push rod bottom end (top hexagon) and the locknut
w
(middle hexagon). Unlock by turning the locknut to

the left and make the adjustment by screwing the
w
push rod cup (bottom hexagon) to the left to take up

clearance or to the right to give more clearance, at the
.h
same time holding the push rod bottom end. Finally,

lock up the locknut against the push rod end and
check the clearance after finally tightening the
itc
locknut.
hc
LOOSENING MAGNETO PINION

Fig. 8 COMPLETE OVERHAUL.
oc
set the magneto control to full advance turn the engine 13. Removal of Engine from Frame.
backwards until the piston has descended 3/8 in. and To remove the engine from the frame, first take
turn the contact breaker forwards (clockwise viewed off the petrol tank, carburettor, exhaust pipe and
ks
from contact breaker end) until the points are just silencer. Next remove the left footrest and the outer
about to open. With the engine and contact breaker in half of the primary chain case, taking care to allow as
these positions, tap the timing pinion lightly on to its little oil as possible to come in contact with the
m
taper and lock by means of the timing pinion nut. rubber sealing band. Unscrew the nut securing the
Check the timing after tightening the nut to make sure engine sprocket ; disconnect the front chain and
that it has not moved. withdraw the engine sprocket from its taper, using an
ot
When replacing the timing cover rotate the extractor similar to that shown in Fig. 10. Dismantle
engine so as to ensure easy engagement of the
or
worm gears which drive the oil pumps. It is

important to use a timing cover joint washer of the
correct material and thickness. Make sure also that
cy
the cork oil seal which fits inside the pump driving
worm is in good condition.
cl
e s.
co
m
ENGINE SPROCKET EXTRACTOR

Fig. 10
the clutch (see Para. 32) and unscrew the main clutch
securing nut (placing the machine in top gear and putting
on the brake to prevent the mainshaft turning). Withdraw
ADJUSTING TAPPETS the clutch centre from its splines by means of an
Fig. 9 extractor as shown in Fig. 11. Remove the rear chain,
Page 10
plates and the studs and distance pieces securing the

engine plates to the bottom of the seat tube of the
frame, and to the chainstays and cradle tubes.
Remove both the engine plates and the gearbox. Take
the weight off the engine and remove the stud
securing the front of the crankcase to the bottom of
the down tube of the frame and lift the engine out in a
backwards direction. Fig. 12 shows the machine with
the engine ready to lift out after removal of the front
attachment stud.
Note.
In the case of machines having frame numbers
19827-24826 and 5038-30037 upwards, the frames of
w
which are fitted with tank tubes, it is necessary to

remove the front as well as the rear engine plates. The
engine can then be removed out to one side.
w
14. Dismantling the Crankcase.

To dismantle the engine, remove the cylinder
w
head, cylinder and timing gear as described in Paras.

footrest rod, inner half of the primary chain case and 1, 2 and 10. Now unscrew the oil pump driving worm,
.h
the leads to the dynamo ; also the clutch, exhaust lifter which has a left-hand thread. This can be unscrewed
and magneto control wires from the handlebars. by means of a thin spanner, a small lathe carrier or
Remove the top gearbox attachment stud (by preferably by using the special tool shown in Fig. 13.
itc
unscrewing the nut at the chain case end and knocking The small timing pinion has not sufficient clearance
out towards the opposite end) and the bottom stud; behind it to allow an extractor to be used and must be
also the studs securing the crankcase to the engine knocked off its taper by driving a blunt chisel between
hc
the back of the pinion and the bronze oil seal bush
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
co
m
Page 11
From the upper wheel remove the set screw which

prevents the crankpin nut from turning and unscrew
this nut, using a well-fitting tubular spanner for this
purpose. The crankpin is a press fit in the flywheel
w
w
PUMP WORM EXTRACTOR

Fig. 13 FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY JIG
w
Fig. 14
.h
behind it, taking care not to damage the bush. Remove and to drive it out the upper wheel must be supported.
the paper cylinder base joint washer and the magdyno For this purpose two pieces of channel iron may be
pinion (see Para. 11), loosen the strap securing the used (see Fig. 16). The pin can then either be pressed
itc
magdyno and remove this; also the timing pinion key out or knocked out using a heavy hammer and a stout
and engine sprocket key. Next unscrew the two 5/16 brass or aluminium drift. Lift the connecting rod
in. nuts just below the magdyno (one each side of the floating bush and thrust washers off the crankpin. If
hc
case), the 5/16 in. nut below the front of the cylinder the crankpin requires renewal, grip the remaining
on the left side and the nuts from one end of the two flywheel in a vice, remove the other crankpin nut and
5/16 in. studs passing through the case near the drive the pin out of the wheel.
oc
bottom. Then remove the nuts from one end of the

seven 1/4 in. studs which hold the two halves of the
crankcase together. Before parting the two halves of
the case, as much oil as possible should be drained out
ks
by removal of the two oil filter plugs. Even so, a small

amount of oil will probably be left in the case. To
prevent this running over the work bench, rest the case
m
on the timing side in a clean tray and lift off the

driving side. The joint will require breaking by a sharp
tap with a soft mallet, after which the driving side can
ot
be lifted off quite easily. Lift the driving side rollers,

cages and thrust washer off the shaft and the flywheel
or
assembly out of the timing side of the case.

15. Removal of Tappets and Guides.
cy
If the tappet stems, feet or guides are badly worn

they must be renewed. The guides are a press fit in
the crankcase and can be removed by knocking them
cl
upwards with a hammer and drift. The first part of

this operation can be done by placing the drift against
the tappet foot but for the last part a slightly bent and
e
flattened drift must be used against the lower end of

s.
the guide itself. After removal of the guides the inlet

tappet can be lifted out but to remove the exhaust
tappet it is necessary to knock out the cam spindle.
co
The only satisfactory way of doing this is by dividing

the crankcase and knocking out the spindle from
inside.
m
DISMANTLING FLYWHEELS IN VICE

16. Dismantling Flywheels. Fig. 15
If the big-end bearing requires renewal the
flywheels must be separated. To do this use the 17. Connecting Rod.
flywheel assembling jig (Fig. 14) if available, Wear in the hardened steel big-end bush will be
otherwise grip one of the mainshafts in a vice fitted shown by the formation of a ridge round the centre of
with lead jaws and prevent the wheels from turning the bearing surface corresponding with the oil groove
by inserting a stout rod between the vice and the edge in the white metal bush. If this wear is excessive the
of the balance weight on the lower wheel (see fig 15). rod should be replaced and returned to the Works for
Page 12
one fitted, this being subsequently ground out to

1.625 in. ±.00025 in. The practice of fitting new
ready-ground big-end bushes is not recommended as
it is difficult to ensure roundness of the bore if this is
done.
Worn small-end bushes can be pressed or drawn
out using the drawer shown in Fig. 4. The new bush
should be reamered to .7507-.7505 in.
Before refitting the connecting rod it should be
checked for freedom from bend or twist using the
fixtures shown in Figs. 17 and 18.
18. Removal of and Replacing Mainshafts.
w
The driving and timing side shafts are held in to

their respective flywheels by means of tapers and
w
keys and are easily removed after unscrewing the nuts

which secure them. Note the oil release valve in the
end of the timing side shaft (see Para. 23). The hollow
w
grub screw securing this must be screwed up tight and

the end of the shaft centre punched to prevent the
.h
screw coming undone.

19. Reassembly of Flywheels.
itc
SEPARATING FLYWHEELS Always fit the crankpin into the timing side
Fig. 16 flywheel first and make sure that the oil hole in the
pin registers with the oil passage drilled in the web of
hc
reconditioning unless facilities are available for the flywheel. The best check on this is to pour oil
grinding the bush in position in the rod, in which case down the timing side shaft and see that it runs out at
the old bush should be pressed out and an unground the centre of the pin. The small grub screw in the
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
co
m
TEST BARS AND GAUGE FOR CHECKING CONNECTING ROD FOR "BEND"
Fig. 17
Page 13
centre of the pin must be screwed tight and of tube between the faces of each flywheel and the
centre-punched to make sure that it does not come out. vice jaws (see Fig. 19). When assembling the
Note the hardened steel thrust washers either side of flywheels, line them up as closely as possible by
the centre portion of the crankpin. The white metal means of a straight edge placed against the rim of the
lined big-end bearing bushes must be handled with wheels at 90° either side of the crankpin. To tighten
great care when fitting. The white metal is soft and the crankpin nuts, use either the assembly jig shown in
easily damaged and the bush is a close fit both on the Fig. 14 or grip one of the mainshafts in a vice, using
pin and in the rod so that it must be kept absolutely lead jaws, and place a stout metal bar against the edge
square otherwise it will jam and the white-metal faces of the balance weight of the lower wheel so as to
will be damaged. Once this bush is correctly fitted it prevent the wheels from turning (see Fig. 15). After
will outlast a roller bearing provided it is always the wheels have been assembled and the crankpin nuts
adequately lubricated. tightened they must be trued up by placing the whole
The driving side flywheel can be assembled on to assembly between centres and checking the truth of
w
the timing side wheel and crankpin either under a the shafts with a dial micrometer (clock gauge). The
press or between the jaws of a vice, using a short piece shafts must run true to within .001 in. Note that it is
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
co
m
"KNIFE EDGES" FOR TESTING CONNECTING ROD FOR "TWIST"

Fig. 18
Page 14
necessary.
To remove the main bearing race from the driving
side of the case, the half case should be inverted over
a lighted gas ring until the heat loosens the race so
that it falls out on tapping the case.
21. Replacing Crankcase Main Bearings.

In order to ensure that the timing and driving side
main bearing races are in line a mandrel such as is
shown in Fig. 21 should be used. The races are
w
w
w
.h
itc
ASSEMBLING FLYWHEELS IN VICE

Fig. 19
hc
MANDREL FOR FITTING CRANKCASE MAIN BEARINGS

the truth of the shafts which is important, the rims and Fig. 21
sides of the wheel do not really matter and may run
oc
out .005 or .010 in. When finally tightened up and

trued, make sure that the big-end bearing has .010 -
.020 in. side play.
ks
inserted about half way into their housings and the

case assembled with the mandrel in position in the
bearings (see Fig. 22). Application of pressure to each
m
end of the mandrel in turn will then force the races

20. Removal of Crankcase Main Bearings. home and at the same time ensure that the two races
The bearing race can be removed from the timing are in line.
ot
side of the case by pressing it out by means of the

bronze oil sealing bush. To do this, support the half
case on a tubular block having an inside diameter of 1
or
in., then press the oil sealing bush right through, using
a drift as shown in Fig. 20. This will bring out the
cy
cl
e s.
co
22. Reassembly of Crankcase.

m
Proceed in the opposite order to that employed in

dismantling the case. Make sure that all parts are
perfectly clean before reassembling. Put clean oil on
the shafts and roller bearings. The joint face between
DRIFT FOR REMOVING TIMING SIDE BUSH &
the two halves of the case must be made with gold
ROLLER RACE size, shellac or a similar jointing compound. Before
Fig. 20 fitting the driving side of the case make sure that the
magdyno strap is in position over its studs. When
assembled, check for end float in the mainshaft, which
main bearing race and the thrust washer between the should be from .005 - .015 in. If necessary the amount
bush and the race. The thrust washer will probably be of end float must be adjusted by using main bearing
damaged in the process so that a new one will be thrust washers of different thicknesses.
Page 15
w
w
w
Position 1. Position 2.
.h
Plunger A is being drawn out of cylindrical hole in Plunger A is being pushed into cylindrical hole in disc
disc C by action of peg B on shaft D. Port T in disc C C. Port T in disc registers with delivery passage X.
itc
registers with suction passage Y in housing. Delivery Suction passage Z is uncovered. Oil is pushed through
passage W in housing is uncovered. Oil flows through T and X to big-end bearing and at same time oil flows
hc
Y and T to fill pump cylinder and at same time oil in into housing through Port Z.
housing is forced through W to cylinder wall.
Fig. 23
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
Position 1. Position 2.
co
Plunger A is being drawn out of cylindrical hole in Plunger A is being pushed into cylindrical hole in disc
disc C. Ports U and V in disc register respectively C. Ports T and U in disc register respectively with
with suction passage Y and delivery passage Z in suction passage Y and delivery passage Z in housing.
m
housing. Oil flows through Y and U to fill pump Oil flows through Y and T to fill pump housing and at
cylinder and at same time oil in housing is forced same time oil in pump cylinder is forced through U
through V and Z to delivery passage. and Z to delivery passage.
Fig. 24
Page 16
LUBRICATION SYSTEM. bearing, leakage back into the timing gear being
prevented by a cork oil seal. A release valve at the
23. Principle of Operation. inner end of the timing shaft prevents excessive
The lubrication system is of the true dry sump pressure developing when the oil is cold. This valve is
circulating type. The fact that the oil tank is formed in designed to lift at 30-40 lbs. per sq. in. pressure.
the crankcase casting does not affect the principle of At the same time the secondary side of the feed
operation, which is identical with that on machines pumps draws oil from the tank A through the gauze
employing a separate oil tank with connecting pipes. filter C and delivers it to the back of the cylinder. The
The oil tank should, therefore, be kept full to oil from both the cylinder and the big-end is splashed
within two inches of the top, as opposed to a car or round the engine by the flywheels and lubricates the
lorry engine, in which the level of oil must be kept piston, main bearings and small end, finally collecting
well below the crankshaft. The circulation of the oil in the two small wells or sumps at the bottom of the
w
is controlled by the feed and return pumps which are flywheel chamber. From these sumps, both primary
mounted in the timing cover and driven by a cross and secondary sides of the return pump F draw oil
through the second gauze filter F and return it to the
w
shaft and worm gearing from the timing side shaft.

The feed pump is at the rear of the cover and the tank A through the oil return passage G. The ball
return pump at the front. Both pumps are of the valve in this passage (see Fig. 26) bypasses part of the
w
oscillating cylinder type and are double acting, the

space in the pump housing being used to form a
.h
secondary cylinder which gives a delivery stroke

when the main cylinder is on the suction stroke and
itc
vice versa. The operation of these pumps will be

clearly understood on reference to Figs. 23 and 24.
The paths through which the oil circulates are shown
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
BALL VALVE IN OIL RETURN PASSAGE

Fig. 26
cl
return oil up the external pipe to the overhead rocker

casing, from which it runs down the push-rod
e
enclosure tubes and through grooves in the tappet

guides to the timing case which is sealed off from the
s.
flywheel chamber. When the oil reaches a sufficient

level in the timing case the two gear wheels H and J,
co
which are partially shrouded so as to form a gear

pump, pick it up and return it through the hole K to
the rear portion of the oil tank. Thus, positive
lubrication is provided for the big-end bearing,
m
cylinder, overhead rockers and timing gear and the

whole of the oil, apart from losses, is collected and
returned to the oil tank.
OIL CIRCULATION DIAGRAM 24. Reasons for Excessive Consumption.
Fig. 25 The rate of circulation is approximately 1 gallon
of oil every 20 miles so that to obtain a consumption
diagrammatically in Fig. 25. The primary side of the figure of 2,000 m.p.g., the amount of oil lost must not
feed pump B draws oil from the tank A through the exceed 1% of that circulated through the engine. The
gauze filter C and delivers it through the felt oil cleaner only loss of oil from an engine in good condition
L to the oil feed nozzle D, pointing down the timing occurs past the piston rings. As cylinder wear occurs
side shaft, from which it is forced to the big-end
Page 17
the rate of loss past the rings will increase, so that the suitable tool for lapping the disc. This can be held in
oil consumption in a well worn engine may increase the chuck of a brace. If a new disc is fitted it will be
to 800-1,000 m.p.g. If the oil consumption is heavier found that the top surface is completely circular. After
than this (or is heavier than 1,500-2,000 m.p.g. in an lapping the disc, the flat face up the side must be
engine having a cylinder and piston in good continued right to the top, otherwise the driving pin
condition) the cause of the excessive loss of oil on the end of the cross shaft will foul the disc.
should be examined. The following are the most Examine the lower face of the return pump disc for
likely causes : signs of it having been lifted off its seating by
1. External oil leaks which may occur at any of endways movement of the driving shaft and, if
the joint faces and are cured by remaking the necessary, file a little extra clearance at the corner of
joint.* the disc where the shaft may foul it.
2. A partial obstruction in either suction or When fitting a new feed pump disc, make sure
that it never simultaneously covers both the ports N
w
delivery passages leading to and from the

return pump. and Z (see Fig. 23). If necessary, file a little more off
3. An air leak on the suction side of the return the flat up the side of the disc to ensure this.
w
pump. Such a leak can occur at the washer When replacing either pump disc make quite sure
beneath the front gauze filter, at the timing that there is no dirt between the lower face and the
w
cover joint face where the suction passage housing and see that the small coil spring is in
crosses it, at the seating of the return pump position between the top of the disc and the pump
.h
disc in its housing or between the return pump cover plate. The joint beneath the cover plate must be
plunger and its cylinder. air and oiltight.
The effect of any defect in the return pump 26. Draining the System.
itc
system is to allow oil to accumulate in the flywheel To drain all oil out of the engine remove the filter
chamber and to escape past the driving side main plugs C and F (Fig. 25) and the feed plug D (Fig. 25)
bearing and through the crankcase breather which is leaning the machine to the right to empty the timing
hc
situated behind the primary chain case. Any excessive case. Remove also the felt element from the oil filter
amount of oil leaking at this point should therefore L (see Fig. 28 for details).
immediately suggest a defect in the return system.
oc
(Note that a certain amount of oily vapour will

normally be blown out of the crankcase breather.)
To test the fit of the return pump plunger in its
cylinder, remove the pump cover plate and lift out the
ks
pump disc and plunger. The fit of the plunger can be

tested by placing a finger over the middle hole in the
lower face of the disc and pulling the plunger out
m
quickly. The plunger should be a good enough fit in

the cylinder to spring back when released.
ot
25. Replacing Pump Discs.

If the underside of the pump disc or the face
against which it works shows signs of dirt or scoring,
or
the disc should be relapped on to its seating, using fine

pumice powder and oil or metal polish. Fig. 27 shows
cy
cl
e s.
co
DETAIL OF FELT OIL CLEANER

m
TOOL FOR LAPPING PUMP DISCS Fig. 28

Fig. 27
The oil should be changed after the first 500
*NOTE.-Excessive oil leaks from the push rod enclosure tube miles and subsequently every 2,000 miles. All filters
joints, tappet chest, exhaust valve lifter adjusting bush or the back must be cleaned whenever the oil is changed and the
of the timing cover, may be due to too much oil being pumped to felt filter element replaced every 5,000 miles.
the rocker gear. This can be checked by replacing the external pipe Note.-After replacing the felt filter element allow
leading to the rocker gear by a pipe connected to a sensitive
pressure gauge, which should record a pressure of about 2 lbs. per the engine to tick over gently for five minutes to
sq. in. when the engine is running. To reduce the head of oil, fit a replace the oil in the filter housing. The big-end does
washer beneath the head of brass plug securing the ball valve not receive any oil until this has been done.
spring (see Fig. 26). To increase the head of oil, remove any After draining the timing case the oil level in the
washers already fitted or remove the plug and spring, stretch the
latter and replace. tank will sink rapidly until the oil level in the timing
case has been made up to normal.
Page 18
TRANSMISSION
GEAR BOX. which secure the cover over the gear operating
mechanism and lift this cover away. Disconnect the
27. Removal of Gearbox from Frame. clutch control (if in machine) hinge the lever back,
The method of removal of the gearbox from the and lift out the clutch adjusting screw and sleeve.
frame is described in Para. 13. The end cover can then be removed from the
All operations on the gearbox can, however, be gearbox after undoing the five hexagon headed bolts
w
performed with the box in the frame except the A (see Fig. 29), the screws B and F, the operator
removal of the inside operator fork and the bearings in locating plunger spring box C, and the mainshaft
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
REMOVAL OF GEARBOX END COVER

Fig. 29
co
gearbox shell. To remove the mainshaft, however, it is bearing nut D. (This nut has a left-hand thread). There
m
necessary to take off the outer half of the primary is no need to disturb the foot change ratchet
chain case, dismantle the clutch and withdraw the mechanism when removing this cover as access to the
clutch centre. To remove the final drive sleeve and bolt A1 can be obtained by removal of the return
layshaft it is necessary to remove both halves of the spring E. The kickstarter mechanism will come away
primary chain case and the countershaft sprocket. with the cover, leaving the mainshaft, layshaft and
Having done this, it may be thought preferable to final drive sleeve located in the gearbox.
remove the gearbox from the frame. If it is required to remove the mainshaft, this can
28. Removal of Gears and Shafts. now be drawn straight out after removal of the clutch
To dismantle the box, first remove the kickstarter (see Paras. 13 and 32) which, however, should be
crank, the nut securing the gear indicator pointer and done before taking off the gearbox end cover. The
the gear operating lever. Then remove the four screws mainshaft high gear pinion and dog will come away
with the shaft (see Fig. 30).
Page 19
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 20
To remove the layshaft and final drive sleeve, the

countershaft sprocket must first be removed. This, of
course, necessitates removal of the inner half of the
chain case if the box is still in the frame. The
countershaft sprocket nut should be undone before
removal of the gearbox end cover. Having removed
the clutch, countershaft sprocket, end cover and
mainshaft, the final drive sleeve and layshaft can be
drawn out of the box.
29. Removal of Ball Races.

The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed from DRIFT FOR REFITTING GEARBOX BALL RACE
w
the box and the cover by means of the drifts shown in Fig. 33
Figs. 31 and 32, while the drifts shown in Figs. 33 and
34 are suitable for refitting these bearings. Note the
w
felt washer in the recess behind the larger mainshaft

bearing and the dished pen steel washer between the
w
bearing and the felt washer. The second dished pen

steel washer (having the smaller central hole) fits on
.h
the other side of the mainshaft bearing and is nipped

between the inner face of the bearing and the shoulder
on the final drive sleeve. Note that both pen steel
itc
washers have their raised centre portions facing

towards the clutch and countershaft sprocket.
hc
oc
DRIFT FOR REFITTING

GEARBOX COVER BALL RACE
ks
Fig. 34
m
moving from top to third or bottom to second gear,

the outer ratchets do not engage the teeth on the inner
ratchets correctly. When the adjuster plate is correctly
ot
adjusted, the movement of the gear lever necessary to

DRIFT FOR REMOVING GEARBOX BALL RACE engage the ratchet teeth will be approximately the
or
Fig. 31 same in either direction.

If the gears do not engage properly, ascertain
whether they require a little more movement or
cy
whether too much movement is given so that a hard

kick goes right through second or third gear into
neutral. If more movement is required, this can be
cl
obtained by filing the stop plate very slightly at the

points indicated. If too much movement is already
e
present a new stop plate must be fitted to give less

movement.
s.
31. Reassembling the Gearbox.

co
No difficulty should be experienced with this but

the following points should be noted :
1. If the mainshaft high gear pinion and dog have
m
been removed, make sure that the dog is

DRIFT FOR REMOVING replaced the right way round (see Fig. 30). If
GEARBOX COVER BALL RACE this dog is reversed, third and top gear can be
Fig. 32 engaged simultaneously-with disastrous
results.
2. When reassembling make sure that the
30. Foot Change Ratchet Mechanism. trunnions on the operator fork engage with the
Fig. 35 shows this mechanism dismantled. Note slots in the inside operator.
the slots in the adjuster plate which allow this to pivot 3. See that the mainshaft is pushed right home.
after loosening the pins which secure it. If the plate is (It may tighten in the felt washer inside the
incorrectly adjusted, it may be found that, after countershaft nut.)
Page 21
w
w
w
.h
itc
DETAIL OF FOOT GEAR CHANGE

Fig. 35
hc
4. The layshaft high gear and kickstarter pinion the three distance tubes inside the springs pass
should be assembled on the layshaft and the through the holes in the pressure plate. Tighten the
kickstarter shaft and ratchet assembled into it spring pins as far as they will go. If the clutch lifts
oc
before fitting the end cover. Do not forget the unevenly the probable reason is that one of the springs
washer between the layshaft high gear and has taken a set, in which case a new set of springs
kickstarter pinion and the kickstarter shaft. should be fitted.
ks
5. See that the kickstarter shaft is in the working 33. Adjustment of Clutch Control.
position (cotter flat to left when facing end It is essential that the clutch control has about
cover) otherwise the cover will not go home. 1/16 in. free movement. To adjust, disconnect the
m
6. The joint between the gearbox case and the control wire from the lever M, on the gearbox (see
end cover should be made with gold size, Fig. 36).
shellac or a similar jointing compound.
ot
7. Note the oil retaining "scrolls" either side of

the ball bearing in the cover.
or
Make sure that all parts are clean on assembly.

For use in normal climates it is preferable to pack the
recesses in the gearbox housing with soft grease and
cy
then top up to the level of the filler plug with gear oil.
The oil will be found to run into the box more easily if
the engine is started up and allowed to tick over, so as
cl
to rotate the gears and shafts. On no account must

heavy yellow grease be used in these boxes.
e s.
CLUTCH.
co
32. Dismantling and Reassembly of Clutch.

The construction of the clutch is shown in Fig.
m
30. To dismantle the clutch plates unscrew the three

spring pins and lift away the springs, pressure plate,
cover over cush rubbers, friction plates and steel
plates. To remove the clutch sprocket from the
centre, spring off the large circlip which secures it.
To remove the clutch centre, unscrew the attachment
nut and withdraw the centre from the mainshaft
using the extractor shown in Fig. 11.
When reassembling the clutch note that two of
the steel plates are dished and the third one is flat. Hinge the lever back and adjust by means of the
The correct order of assembly is clearly shown in Fig. screw A, holding the sleeve B to prevent it turning.
30. Do not forget to replace the cush rubber retaining Turn the screw A to the left to give more clearance to
cover before fitting the pressure plate. Make sure that the control wire ; to the right to take up clearance.
Page 22
CHAINS. links. For the primary chain this means an increase in

length of 3/4 in. and for the final drive chain of 1.1/8
34. Lubrication. in. When measuring chains for wear, the load applied
The front chain is lubricated by filling the oilbath should be 28 lbs. for the ½ in. pitch primary chain
case with engine oil up to the level of the overflow and 42-44 lbs. for the 5/8 in. pitch final drive chain.
plug.
The rear chain should be lubricated regularly by 37. Removal, Repair and Replacement.
the driver, but if it is dry or dirty must be removed, Both chains are fitted with spring links to
thoroughly washed in paraffin and soaked in engine facilitate removal. The springs can be removed with
oil or preferably in melted grease to which a little the fingers or with the aid of a pair of pliers.
graphite has been added. If it is required to replace any of the links in a
35. Tensioning. chain (as, for example, in the unlikely event of a roller
The front chain should have approximately ¼ in. or rollers having broken), two adjacent rivets passing
free movement up and down ; the rear chain about ½
w
in. If the tension varies in different parts of the chain, through the same outer plate must be removed. To do
adjust to the above figures at the tightest point. this, use a rivet extractor or support the chain on two
w
To adjust the front chain, loosen the nuts on the small nuts (1/4 in. or 3/16 in. diameter) and drive the
studs which hold the gearbox to the engine plates, rivets out with a small punch. When replacing rivetted
links, support the under side of the chain on a flat
w
unscrew the central push bolt between the plates and piece of steel and drive the outer plate over the rivets
lever the gearbox backwards until the tension is by means of a hollow punch (or small nut) applied
.h
correct. This can be gauged through the inspection over each rivet in turn. Hammer the ends of the rivets
hole in the chaincase. After the chain has been over lightly, taking care not to distort the outer plate
correctly tensioned, securely tighten up the nuts on the
itc
gearbox attachment studs and screw up the central so as to cause a tight joint. Never join together new
push bolt, until it bears hard against the upper lug on and badly worn lengths of chain.
the gearbox, and tighten the locknut. The purpose of When replacing the chains make sure that the
hc
this push bolt is to prevent the gearbox moving open ends of the spring connecting links point away
backwards owing to the pull of the rear chain, which is from the direction of travel. The back half of the
greater than that of the front one. connecting link is easily inserted in the rear chain if
the ends of the chain are brought together on the rear
oc
To tension the rear chain, loosen the wheel sprocket. In the case of the front chain, however, the
spindle nuts and adjust by means of the adjuster connecting link must be inserted in the straight run of
screws in each fork end. Take care to turn each the chain as there is insufficient clearance behind the
ks
adjuster equally, otherwise the wheel will be thrown sprockets to allow the link to be inserted. It will be
out of alignment. found that the link can be inserted much more readily
36. Limits of Wear. if the ends of the chain are pulled together by a pair of
m
A chain is considered to be worn out when its round-nosed pliers or similar tool, or by a loop of fine
length under load is 2 per cent. longer than the length string.
of a new chain of the same type and same number of
ot
WHEELS
or
38. Removal and Replacement. Punctures whose positions are known can be
cy
To remove the front wheel, place the machine on repaired by removing the affected portion of the tube
both stands (never use the front stand alone), after removal of the mudguard and carrier as described
disconnect the speedometer cable and brake control at above.
cl
the hub end, unscrew the wheel spindle nuts and When replacing the front wheel make sure that
spring the forks slightly open, when the wheel will the sleeve portion of the nuts enters correctly in the
e
drop out. recess in the fork end, also that the slot in the anchor
To remove the rear wheel, place the machine on plate engages the anchor pin.
s.
the rear stand, loosen the four nuts which attach the When replacing the rear wheel make sure that the
mudguard and carrier assembly to the back stays, wheel is pushed right up against the chain adjusters.
co
swing up the two stays from the front of the carrier to Do not forget to couple up the brake anchor strap and
the back stays, disconnect the tail lamp lead and lift adjust the brake correctly.
away the whole assembly of mudguard, carrier, pillion
m
seat and panniers (if fitted). Now remove the rear 39. Tyres.
chain and the wing nut from the brake rod, disconnect The tyres should be examined carefully for cuts
one end of the brake anchor strap, loosen the spindle and excessive or uneven wear ; also for signs of
nuts and pull the wheel out of the slotted fork ends. under inflation such as cracked side walls or damaged
Note :-To change an inner tube it is not necessary fabric.
to remove the wheel. Remove the mudguard and When removing the tyre always start close to the
carrier assembly as described above, then unscrew valve and security bolt and see that the edge of the
the right hand spindle nut and pull out the short cover at the other side of the wheel is well down into
length of spindle to which it is attached. Spring the the well in the rim. When replacing the tyre, fit the
forks slightly and slide out the distance piece part by the valve and security bolt last. If the correct
between the hub and the right hand fork end. This method of fitting and removal of the tyre is adopted, it
will leave a gap through which the inner tube can will be found that the covers can be manipulated quite
be passed. easily with the small levers in the tool kit.
Page 23
40. Rims. The brake cam, cam bearing and the pivot pin
Rims which are running slightly out of truth can should be lightly smeared with grease before
be trued up by tensioning the spokes, but if the rims reassembling the brake, if this has been dismantled for
are badly buckled, twisted or dented they must either cleaning or any other purpose.
be straightened or new ones fitted. Buckled rims 43. Wheel Bearings.
cannot be trued without tightening some of the spokes The wheel bearings should be examined and
excessively. repacked with grease if necessary. The bearings are
non-adjustable and if showing an excessive amount of
41. Spokes. play must be replaced. To remove the bearings,
Examine the wheel for broken or loose spokes unscrew all nuts from the spindle, then drive the
and replace or tighten. Loose spokes are liable to spindle out by hitting either end with a mallet. This
break owing to the load coming on them suddenly as will bring out one bearing with the spindle. Remove
the wheel revolves. Loose or broken spokes throw an this bearing from the spindle and use the spindle to
w
undue strain on the other spokes in their vicinity. drive the other bearing out of the hub. The drifts
shown in Figs. 37 and 38 will be found suitable for
w
42. Brakes. refitting the new bearings to the hubs, two of each
The brake drums and linings require cleaning type being required. The inner faces of the bearings
w
from time to time to ensure that there is direct contact should bear against the shoulders on the spindle just
between the lining and the drum. The presence of oil, before the outer races bottom in the recesses in the
.h
grease, moisture, mud or even dry dust will impair the hub barrel. If this is not the case excessive strain will
efficiency of the brake. To dismantle the brake, be placed on the balls when the bearing retaining nut
remove the wheel from the machine, remove the left- and nut securing the brake cover plate are tightened
itc
hand spindle nut completely and unscrew the distance up. If the bearing shows signs of tightening when
piece which fits on the spindle between the inside of these nuts are screwed home a thin shim should be
the fork end and the brake cover plate. The cover plate fitted on the spindle behind one of the bearings.
hc
can then be lifted off complete with the operating cam

and lever and shoes. Remove the two tension springs
between the brake shoes and lift the shoes away. If it
oc
is required to remove the operating cam the nut which

secures the operating lever to the cam spindle must be
undone and the lever withdrawn from the splines on
the spindle.
ks
The colour of the linings varies from deep yellow

to dark brown according to the severity with which
they have been used and the temperature at which they
m
have been running. Their appearance should be

polished. Do not " rough up " the linings with a file in
ot
order to remove the normal polished surface. The

removal of this merely shortens the life of the lining.
The presence of grease or mud will probably be shown
or
by dull black streaks on the linings. The best way to

remove these is to scrape them off with a knife or
hacksaw blade, then to reassemble the brake and run
cy
the machine for a short period in second or third gear

with each brake in turn hard on. This will burn out the
last traces of grease and will be found to restore the
cl
efficiency of the brake once the linings have cooled

down. Alternatively grease can be burnt out of the
e
linings with the aid of a blow lamp. Washing the

linings with petrol usually results in washing the
s.
grease into them and is not recommended.

If new linings are necessary, make sure that those
co
fitted are the correct size and type. The lining material
for both brakes is Ferodo B.Z. and the dimensions for
the rear wheel are 7 in. diameter by 1 in. wide, by 1/4
m
in. thick and for the front wheel 6 in. diameter by 1

in. wide, by 1/4 in. thick. When fitting new linings,
rivet up the rivets at the ends of the linings last, so as
to avoid buckling the lining.
If new linings are fitted it may be found that one
goes into operation before the other. This may give
either a very fierce brake or an ineffective one,
according to which lining operates first. The shoes
can be centralised by loosening the pins and nuts
which secure the cam bush to the brake torque plate,
then applying the brake and tightening the cam bush
securing pins.
Page 24
44. Cush Drive Rubbers. sprocket and brake drum can be lifted off the hub
The condition of the cush drive rubbers in the barrel thus exposing the six rubber blocks. After
rear wheel can be gauged by placing the machine on fitting new blocks before replacing the sprocket,
the rear stand, applying the rear brake and trying to smear some grease on the protruding end of the hub
turn the wheel by pulling on the tyre or rim. If there is barrel and also on the back surface of the cush drive
more than one inch free movement of the tyre lock ring. The sprocket will enter the spaces between
(half-inch if machine is to be used across country), the rubber blocks more readily if the latter are dusted
the rubbers should be examined. Access to the liberally with French chalk or smeared with soft
rubbers is obtained by removing the wheel and the soap. With this type of cush drive it will probably be
brake cover plate, then unscrewing the three found best to lie the blocks flat in the hub shell, not
Simmonds nuts at the back of the brake drum and to tilt them as is recommended for the smaller cush
knocking out the three shouldered pins which secure drive fitted to the Royal Enfield Side-valve Model
w
the cush drive lock ring, after which the combined WD/C.
w
FRAME AND FORK

w
.h
45. Alignment of Wheels. 46. Adjustment of Fork Links.

The only way to make sure that the wheels are in Side play on the front fork swivel pins should be
itc
alignment is to check one against the other. Frames eliminated as far as possible without interfering with
and forks are set when built so as to ensure that the the free movement of the forks. The two bottom fork
centre of the two wheel spindles, the centre line of spindles have right- and left-hand threads and screw
the engine attachment lugs and the head lug, all lie in
hc
into the bottom links. To adjust these, first remove

the same plane. Individual points along the frame the shock absorber hand nuts and star washers, taking
tubes, however, are not checked and the wheel care not to lose the small springs and plungers inside
cannot, therefore, be accurately lined up by ensuring the hand nuts (see Fig. 39). Then loosen the locknuts
oc
that it is central between the chainstays or backstays. on the fork spindles. The nuts on the right-hand side
Neither can it be assumed that the wheel will be in of the machine have left-hand threads. Adjust the
line when it is pushed hard against the front end of links by turning the spindles by means of the squares
ks
the slots in the rear fork ends. on their ends in a clockwise direction (viewed from
Wheel alignment can be checked by using a the left-hand side of the machine) to give more side
straightedge if one is available. Wooden straight clearance or in an anti-clockwise direction to take up
m
edges, however, are liable to warp and are, therefore, clearance.

not reliable. The best way to check the alignment of The two top spindles have threads only on the
the wheels is to use a piece of fine string. This should left-hand side of the machine. To adjust these, loosen
ot
be tied to one spoke of the rear wheel, taken round the locknuts and turn the spindles by means of their
the tyre, brought towards the front of the machine and hexagon heads in a clockwise direction (viewed from
pulled taut with the front end some inches away from
or
the right-hand side of the machine) to take up

the front wheel. The string should then be brought clearance or anti-clockwise to give more clearance.
slowly in towards the front wheel, keeping it taut and Check the adjustment after tightening the locknuts
cy
watching carefully to see when it touches the front and make sure that the forks work perfectly freely. A
portion of the rear tyre. It should just come on to the little side play is preferable to excessive friction. Any
rear tyre at two points simultaneously with touching necessary damping action is provided by the
the front tyre at two points, assuming that the front
cl
hand-operated shock absorbers which must be

wheel is pointing straight ahead. Check the setting by replaced after adjusting the fork swivel pins. Note
testing with string in the same way along the other that the adjusting nut on the right-hand side of the
e
side of the machine. machine has a left-hand thread, and that both
The above method checks only the alignment of
s.
adjusting nuts are tightened by turning their tops

the lower portions of the two wheels. If the frame is towards the rider when in the saddle.
twisted or the forks are bent, it is possible that the Very little damping action is required for
co
lower portion of the wheels will be in alignment main road work and the adjustment of the shock
while the upper portion is not. Any serious twist can absorbers should be left so that it is easy to move
be seen by looking along the machine to make sure the star washers with the thumb.
m
that both wheels lie in the same plane. In case of

doubt this can be checked by using the string near the
top of the wheels, after removal of the mudguards, 47. Worn Swivel Pins or Bushes.
battery, toolboxes and engine cylinder. If excessive up and down play is present in any
If the wheels are in alignment and the frame is of the swivel pins the pin and/or bush should be
not twisted or bent the rear chain should also be in renewed. All four swivel pins work in renewable
alignment. This can be checked by looking along it bronze bushes housed in the forks, steering stem or
with the chainguard removed. If the chain has been ball head clip. To remove the two lower swivel pins,
run out of alignment it will show definite indications first unscrew the shock absorber hand adjuster knobs
on the sides of the sprocket teeth and on the inner and star washers, then the locknuts and turn each
faces of the chain links. If the wheels cannot be lined swivel pin in turn in a clockwise direction (when
up without throwing the chain out of alignment, the viewed from the left-hand side of the machine) until
probable cause is that the rear frame portion is bent.
Page 25
the fork links become unscrewed from the threads on 48. Adjustment of Steering Head.
the swivel pins. When replacing the swivel pins, screw To check for play in the steering head, the weight
the links on to the front pin an equal distance at each must be taken off the front wheel by placing a suitable
side before starting the threads on the back pin. Make box beneath the engine crankcase. Play can then be
sure that the shock absorber friction discs and metal felt by trying to move the lower end of the forks
plates are correctly fitted over the boss on the bottom backwards and forwards. To distinguish between play
front fork lug. in the steering head and in the fork swivel pin
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
co
m
DETAIL OF FORK AND STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENTS

Fig. 39
Page 26
bearings, place one finger across the head races just the head lug, place the upper ball race in position and
beneath the ball head clip. The steering head should be knock the ball head clip down on to it, then screw
adjusted so as to have the minimum of play in it, down the head bearing adjusting nut until the
while, at the same time, the fork must swing easily to adjustment is correct and lock up the pinch bolt nut.
either side when the handlebars are given a slight tap.
To adjust the head bearing, first unscrew the steering
damper knob, then loosen the nut on the pinch bolt 50. Steering Damper.
through the ball head clip (see Fig. 39), and adjust the If the steering is found to bind even when a little
head bearing by means of the large nut on top of the play is present in the head bearing, the probability is
ball head clip. Remove as much play as possible that the steering damper is not freeing properly. To
without interfering with the free movement of the check this, remove the ¼ in. diameter bolt which
steering head. Do not forget to tighten the pinch bolt attaches the middle plate of the steering damper to the
nut. This takes the strain off the threads in the top head lug on the frame (see Fig. 39). This puts the
adjusting nut and failure to tighten the pinch bolt may damper completely out of action and if the steering
w
cause the threads in the adjusting nut to strip, with now becomes free this is an indication that the damper
serious consequences. was previously binding. In order to ensure that the
w
damper frees properly, the middle plate and the

bottom plate must both be parallel with the turned
w
49. Dismantling and Reassembling Steering Head. face on the bottom of the steering stem. To ensure
To dismantle the steering head, take the weight this, loosen the ¼ in. bolt securing the middle plate to
.h
off the front of the machine by supporting the the head lug ; also the second ¼ in. bolt securing the
crankcase on a suitable box, then remove the steering bottom plate to the steering stem. Both these pins pass
damper knob and anchor bolt (see Fig. 39). Next through slotted lugs on the plates and the plates can be
itc
remove the head bearing adjusting nut, loosen the tapped up or down as required in order to bring them
pinch bolt nut (see Fig. 39) and drive the projecting parallel with the lower face of the steering stem. Lock
end of the steering stem through the ball head clip. up the two ¼ in. bolts tightly, with the bottom and
hc
Lift the ball head clip away in a forward direction and middle plates and the steering damper in such a
withdraw the front forks complete, with steering position that the damper is perfectly free. Binding of
stem, from the lower end of the head lug. the damper causes bad steering at low speeds and it is
oc
When replacing the steering stem and forks, more important to ensure that the damper comes
assemble the lower head race on to the steering stem perfectly free than for it to be capable of locking the
with clean grease round the balls. Note that there are steering tightly. Damping of the steering of this
ks
only 19 balls in each race. Do not attempt to fit an machine is required only at very high speeds or across
extra ball. Insert the steering stem upwards through country and then only light damping is required.
m
ot
CARBURETTOR
or
(AMAL Type 276 A.C./1A)

cy
cl
51. Adjusting Slow Running. 52. Dismantling Carburettor.

To set the carburettor so that the engine ticks over The construction of the carburettor is clearly
slowly, proceed as follows:- Start up the engine and shown in Fig. 40. Carburettors should be dismantled
e
set to run on a small throttle opening with the air fully from time to time in order to clean out accumulations
s.
open and ignition about half retarded. Screw up the of silt from the bottom of the float chamber, float
throttle stop adjusting screw (see Fig. 40) until the chamber holding bolt, etc. If it is necessary to remove
engine begins to speed up. Now close twist grip the jet block from the mixing chamber, great care
co
completely and make sure that there is slack in the should be taken in doing this as the jet block is easily
control cable, if necessary adjusting by means of distorted. When replacing the float make sure that the
screwed adjusting bush on top of the carburettor spring clip engages correctly with the groove in the
m
mixing chamber. Next unscrew throttle stop adjusting fuel needle.

screw gradually until the engine is running as slowly
as possible consistent with steady, even firing. Next
adjust pilot air screw in or out until the engine speed is
its maximum for the given throttle and ignition
settings. If the speed is now too high, unscrew throttle 53. Causes of High Petrol Consumption.
stop adjusting screw further and, if necessary, correct If the petrol consumption is excessive, first look
adjustment of pilot air screw. When the best settings for leaks either from the carburettor, petrol pipe,
have been found, lock up locknut on throttle stop petrol taps or tank. If coloured petrol is in use this will
adjusting screw and screw up throttle cable adjusting readily indicate the presence of any small leaks which
bush on top of mixing chamber until all but a little otherwise might pass unnoticed. If the petrol system is
slack is taken out of the control wire. free from leaks, carefully set the pilot adjusting screw
Page 27
as described in Para. 51 to give the correct mixture full throttle and may make the mixture too weak at
when idling. Running with the pilot adjusting screw large throttle openings, thus causing overheating.
too far in is a common cause of excessive petrol The standard setting for this carburettor is as
consumption. If the consumption is still heavy, try the follows:
effect of lowering the taper needle in the throttle slide Main jet No. 130.
by one notch. Do not fit a smaller main jet as this will Throttle Valve 6/4.
not affect consumption except when driving on nearly Needle clip in middle groove.
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e s.
A MIXING CHAMBER H JET BLOCK BARREL O NEEDLE JET U NEEDLE VALVE

co
B THROTTLE VALVE J PILOT HOLE P MAIN JET V SPRING CLIP

C THROTTLE NEEDLE K PILOT FEED HOLE Q HOLDING BOLT W FLOATCHAMBERTOP
D AIR VALVE L PILOT AIR HOLE R FLOAT CHAMBER X FLOATCHAMBER
m
E MIXING CHAMBER M PILOT OUTLET S NEEDLE SEATING LOCK SCREW

UNION NUT N BY-PASS T FLOAT
F JET BLOCK
SECTION OF AMAL CARBURETTOR

Fig. 40
Page 28
LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEM

MAGNETO (LUCAS Magdyno Model M01-4, Type freely in its holder, being careful not to stretch the
L1 or Model M01-6, Type LI). brush spring unduly. While the pick-up is removed,
clean the slip ring track and flanges by holding a soft
54. Lubrication of Contact Breaker Mechanism.
The cam is lubricated by a wick contained in the
contact breaker base, which must be given a few drops
of thin machine oil. To get at the wick, remove the
spring arm carrying the moving contact and withdraw
w
the screw carrying the wick. At the same time remove

the tappet which operates the contact breaker spring,
w
and lightly smear with thin machine oil; when

replacing, see that the small backing spring is fitted
w
immediately under the securing screw and spring

washer and that the bent portion faces outward. See
.h
Fig. 41.
55. Cleaning Contact Breaker.
Remove the contact breaker cover and examine
itc
the contacts. If they are dirty, they must be cleaned by

polishing with a fine carborundum stone or very fine
emery cloth ; afterwards wipe away any dirt or metal
hc
dust with a petrol-moistened cloth. Cleaning of the PICK-UP, MOULDED NUT REMOVED TO SHOW
METHOD OF MAKING CONNECTION
contacts is made easier if the spring arm carrying the Fig. 42
moving contact is removed as described above.
oc
cloth on the ring while the engine is slowly turned by

hand. To fit new cable (see Fig. 42) thread the knurled
moulded nut over the lead, bare the cable for about ¼
in., thread the wire through the metal washer removed
ks
from the old cable, and bend back the strands. Finally
screw the nut into its terminal.
59. Suppressor and Immobilizer.
m
Check for cracks in insulation, check for positive

contacts of H.T. wire; always disconnect lead at spark
ot
plug end before unscrewing immobilizer. See that

lead is arranged so that immobilizer is clear of metal
parts of machine.
or
60. Magneto Drive.

CONTACT BREAKER MECHANISM, The magneto drive is by gears enclosed in the
COVER REMOVED
cy
Fig. 41
engine timing case. These are automatically
lubricated and require no attention or adjustment.
Examine the spring arm of the contact breaker
cl
and wipe away any rust.

56. Adjustment of Contact Breaker.
e
To check the contact setting, turn the engine until

the contacts are fully opened and insert the gauge
s.
provided on the magneto spanner, .012 in.to .015 in.,

between the contacts; if the setting is correct, the
co
gauge should be a sliding fit. If there is an appreciable

variation from the gauge, slacken the lock nut and turn
the contact screw by its hexagon head, until the gap is
set to the gauge. Finally tighten the lock nut.
m
57. H.T. Cable.

This should be 7 m.m. in diameter. Other sizes,
such as 5 m.m. and 9 m.m. will not fit in the
immobilizer and suppressor. The cable must be
replaced if the rubber insulation has perished or shows
cracks and has become brittle.
58. H.T. Pick-Up.
Examine the pick-up or high tension terminal ASSEMBLY OF FELT GLAND
FOR MAGDYNO SPINDLE
(magneto end). See that the carbon brush moves Fig. 43
Page 29
61. Timing Ignition. from the gear centre, which is keyed to the magneto
The ignition timing should be such that the shaft, through the fabric gear which is held against the
contact breaker points are just about to open when the gear centre under the pressure of a star shaped spring,
to the pinion on the dynamo shaft. The effect of a
violent overload is to cause the fabric gear to slip
relative to the gear centre and so prevents shock from
being transmitted to the fabric gear.
64. Dismantling the Magneto.

First remove earth brush and high tension
pick-up Then proceed as follows:
w
(1) Drive End.

Remove dynamo.
w
Take off driving end cover by unscrewing

four countersunk screws. Unscrew large nut
w
in centre of driving gear (the wheel may be

locked by using the gear fitting tool as
.h
illustrated in Fig. 46). Remove locking

washer, clutch spring and gear wheel
complete with friction plate.
itc
DETAIL OF MAGNETO EARTH BRUSH

Fig. 44 (2) Contact Breaker End.
piston is 3/8 in. before the top of the compression Take off contact breaker cover.
hc
stroke, the control being fully advanced. This is Unscrew contact breaker plate retaining screw
equivalent to 34° advance. For details of the method -note position of the small backing spring,
of altering the timing, see Para. 11. i.e., immediately under the securing screw
and spring washer, with
oc
the bent portion facing

outwards.
Knock back locking tags
ks
on contact breaker centre

screw. Take out centre
screw when contact
m
breaker may be removed,

by levering off evenly with
ot
the aid of two screwdrivers

The cam plate is now
exposed and can be
or
removed when the copper

spring ring is levered out
with a screw driver. Take
cy
care when doing this that

the ring does not fly, also
EXPLODED VIEW OF MAGNETO note position of the
cl
Fig. 45 . Bowden control plunger

and the slots in the face
e
cam.
62. Removal and Replacement of Magdyno.
s.
To remove the complete magdyno first take off

the timing gear cover (see Para. 10), then remove the
co
driving pinion (see Para. 11). Next loosen the nut

tensioning the magdyno securing strap, lift the
magdyno until the dowel pins in the base are clear
and withdraw the instrument endways.
m
When replacing the magdyno note the correct

order of assembly of the oil retaining gland at the
back of the timing case. This is clearly shown in Fig.
43.
63. Slipping Clutch.
A shock absorbing drive is incorporated in the
larger of the two gears which take the drive from the
magneto shaft to the dynamo. This considerably USE OF JIG FOR MAGNETO
relieves the peak loading on the teeth of the driving SLIPPING CLUTCH
gear and gives a far longer life. The drive is taken Fig. 46
Page 30
Observe that the cam is fitted with its flat side hydraulic press, but in case of emergency they can be
towards the armature of the machine. driven in with a mandrel made to the dimensions
The contact breaker end shield can now be shown in Fig. 48. The serrated fibre washer fits
removed if the fixing screws, pillar and spring and behind the race to prevent any electric current
earthing terminal nut are unscrewed. attacking the surface of the bearings.
Take out armature by tapping with a soft drift
from the drive end.
Care should be taken not to allow the yoke to
come in close contact with any iron filings as the
magnets which are die-cast within the body will
attract these, and cause the armature to bind.
w
65. Test and Repair of Magneto.

When the armature has been removed it should
w
be examined for actual structural faults, such as

cracked or bent shafts. Any flaw in the winding needs
w
special equipment to detect.* In the absence of this MANDREL FOR REPLACING ARMATURE BEARINGS
some idea of the condition can be obtained with the Fig. 48
.h
aid of a battery.
Screw the contact breaker retaining screw into 66. Reassembly of Magneto.
the end of the armature shaft. Connect one pole of a
itc
Thoroughly wash out cages and balls and dry.

2-volt cell to this with an ammeter in series. Connect Re-pack with high melting point grease. Refit
the other pole of the battery to the core of the armature and contact breaker end plate, taking care
armature. The ammeter will then record the current
hc
that the distance shims are in position. Check

taken by the primary turns-this should be armature for endplay. Armature should revolve easily
approximately 3 amperes. To check the secondary when turned by hand, with not more than .003 in.
winding, connect a piece of H.T. cable to the brass endplay.
oc
insert of the slipring and hold the other end a little

away from the armature core. If the lead from the
battery which was connected to the core is then
ks
flashed quickly on and off the core, a high tension

spark should occur between the H.T. cable and the
core.
m
No spark between these points indicates that there

is a fault either in the armature windings or the
condenser and a replacement should be fitted.
ot
CONTACT BREAKER BODY AND TAPPET

or
Fig. 49
Adjust by adding or leaving off shims under

cy
contact breaker end plate until correct.

Fit cam in position with Bowden control plunger in
its correct slot and secure with circlip. See Fig. 50.
cl
e s.
TOOL FOR REMOVING ARMATURE BEARING

co
Fig. 47
It is important that the two ball bearings which

m
support the armature are in good condition. If they are

packed on assembly with a grease such as a suitable
high-melting point grease they will stand an almost
unlimited amount of normal wear, but if they start to
fail due to a bent shaft or other cause they must be
replaced. They can be removed with a tool as shown
in Fig. 47, and they should be replaced with a
pressure of 250 lbs. At the works this is done in a
* i.e., an ohmmeter. The resistance of the secondary winding
measured between the slip ring and earth should be approximately
4,000 ohms. If the resistance is considerably greater or less than
this figure, the secondary winding may be considered to be faulty. CONTACT BREAKER END PLATE
Fig. 50
Page 31
Examine fibre ‘tappet.’ See that it slides freely When the spring pressure has been satisfactorily
without having sideplay. See Fig. 49. tested, lock the securing nut by bending over one of
Moisten cam lubricating wick with oil. Fit the tags of the locking washer.
contact breaker in position on horseshoe shaft Refit dynamo and pack gears with high melting
location on end of armature shaft. Make sure the fibre point grease.
heel of the contact breaker tappet is located correctly Fit driving end cover in position with paper
in its guides. See Fig. 49. gasket correctly located.
Replace H.T. pick-up, checking carbon brush to
Fit centre screw with locking plate. Tighten and see that it is free to move in its holder and examine
lock by bending up tags of locking plate. cork gasket for cracks.
Refit earth brush.
Refit spring contact arm with backing spring in
w
its correct position.

Turn armature till points are fully open and SPARKING PLUG.
w
adjust the gap to .012 in. with feeler gauges. Type: Lodge H.14 Sintox or Champion L.l0S (14
m.m. thread, standard ½ in. reach).
w
Tighten lock nut at foot of contact screw. 68. Dismantling, Cleaning and Setting.
Re-check gap setting. If the plug is oiled or carboned up it should be
.h
67. Reassembling and Testing Slipping Clutch. taken apart and thoroughly cleaned internally. To
Key the gear centre assembly to the magneto shaft dismantle the plug, hold the gland nut (smaller
itc
Place the gear in position on the centre with bevelled hexagon) in a vice and unscrew the body of the plug
edge inwards. Insert the friction plate in the recess in by means of a tube spanner or ring spanner. Take care
the gear. Thread the spring over the shaft and arrange not to lose the metal sealing washer which makes the
hc
so that the locating pin on the centre is positioned joint between the insulator and the body of the plug.
between two fingers of the spring. Carefully remove all oil and carbon from the
internal insulation and inside the plug body.
Reassemble the plug and tighten securely so as to
oc
ensure gas tightness.

Carefully reset the gap between the plug points to
.018 in. taking care to set the side points and never to
ks
bend the central electrode. A gauge .018 in. thick

will be found on the small spanner supplied for
tightening the oil pump cover screws.
m
Note.-In the case of replacement plugs which

may be of the non-detachable type, the only
ot
satisfactory way of cleaning is by sand blasting.

This, however, must never be done to plugs having
or
mica insulation.
cy
69. Testing.
The only satisfactory test for a plug is its ability
to fire under pressure. This requires the use of special
cl
apparatus consisting of a pressure chamber (with a

small glass window) into which the plug can be
e
MAGNETO SLIPPING CLUTCH screwed and a source of high tension current.

Fig. 51 A plug in good condition with its points set to
s.
.018 in. should fire at 10,000 volts when subject to a

Thread the locking washer over the spindle and pressure of 40lbs. per sq. in.
locate on the pin as was done with the spring.
co
Screw the locking nut on the spindle with

hexagon towards the gear. Tighten nut dead tight,
using the gear locking tool as previously illustrated.
m
See Fig. 46. CHARGING CIRCUIT.

Test for slip in the following manner:
With gear locked, slip must not occur, with a 70. Testing.
pressure of less than 4 lbs. applied at the end of a With compensated voltage control equipment, the
horizontal lever 1ft. long secured to the spindle. Slip reading on the ammeter will show only one or two
must occur at a pressure of less than 10 lbs. amperes charge during daytime running when the
If slip occurs at less than 4 lbs. a new spring must battery is fully charged.
be fitted.
Page 32
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 33
It is most important that the main dynamo and No reading at terminal "A" but a reading at
field leads are not interchanged either internally or terminal "B" indicates that the ammeter is open
externally at the dynamo or at the voltage control box. circuited.
If the ammeter does not show a charge when the No reading at terminal "B" indicates either a
engine is running at a fair speed, test as follows : broken wire between terminal "B" and battery or bad
Remove dynamo leads from terminals "D" and battery connections.
"F". Bridge the two terminals and, with the engine
running at a fast tick-over speed, connect a voltmeter
between the link joining terminals "D" and "F" and the
yoke of the dynamo. Speed up engine slightly when DYNAMO.
voltage should rise with speed.
If the dynamo proves to be in order, reconnect (Lucas Type E. 3.H.M.).
leads at the dynamo.
w
Next disconnect leads to "D" and "F" terminals at 71. Removal.

the voltage regulator. Join these wires together and To remove the dynamo from the magneto portion
w
test with voltmeter connected between them and a of the Magdyno, unscrew from the driving end plate
good earth on the machine. If the voltage rises with the securing nut and slacken the two screws in the
speed then the leads from the dynamo to regulator are clamping band. The dynamo can then be drawn away
w
in order. from its mounting.

.h
72. Dismantling.
Bend back the tab washer from over the screw
securing the driving pinion and remove the screw.
itc
Withdraw the pinion by means of an extractor. Lift the

two brushes from their holders and unscrew the two
through bolts securing the driving end bracket to the
hc
yoke. Withdraw the end bracket complete with

armature. The armature can be removed from the end
bracket by means of a hand press.
oc
73. Cleaning Commutator and Brushes.

About every 10,000 miles, remove the metal
cover band in order to inspect the commutator and
ks
CONNECTIONS TO VOLTAGE REGULATOR brushgear. Check that the brushes are clean and move
Fig. 53 freely in their holders. If there is any stickiness,
remove the brush and clean the sides with a cloth
m
At this stage test the battery and connections with moistened with petrol, or by lightly polishing with
voltmeter : fine glass paper. Always replace brushes in their
ot
(1) Test between positive and negative battery original positions. Brushes which have worn so that
terminals. Reading should be 6 to 7 volts. they do not bear firmly on the commutator, or which
(2) Test between positive battery and frame of expose the embedded end of the flex on the running
or
motor cycle. No reading indicates bad earth or face, must be replaced.

broken earth wire from battery to frame. The commutator must be clean and free from
(3) With engine running at charging speed, turn traces of oil or dirt. Clean a dirty or blackened
cy
front wheel through full lock, to stress cables, commutator by pressing a fine duster against it while
and check for fractures under insulation. the engine is slowly turned over. If the commutator is
Assuming that components and wiring so far very dirty, the duster should be moistened with
cl
tested have proved to be in order, now test the control petrol.

box and the remaining cables.
e
Remove the lead from terminal "A" at control 74. Method of Making Connection to Dynamo or
box. Regulator Terminals.
s.
With voltmeter, test between this lead and earth To make a connection to the dynamo or regulator
If a reading is obtained, the wiring from the terminals, slacken the fixing screw on the terminal
block and remove the clamping plate.
co
battery to this point is in order and the fault lies in the Withdraw the metal sleeve in each terminal. Pass
cutout and regulator unit. about 1 in. of cable through the holes in the clamping
If no reading, connect voltmeter between plate and bare the ends for 3/8 in. Fit the metal sleeves
terminal No. 3 on headlamp switch, and earth, when a
m
reading will indicate there is an open circuit in wire over the cables, bend back the wire over the sleeves
between regulator and switch. and push them well home into their terminals. Finally
If no reading, test first between terminal "A" at screw down the clamping plate. The leads connected
ammeter and earth, and then terminal "B" and earth. A to the "D" and "F" terminals of the dynamo or
voltmeter reading at terminal "A" but not terminal 3 regulator units must not be reversed. To prevent this
indicates a break in the link between ammeter and occurring the screw in the dynamo terminal block is
switchbox. off-centre and the screws which secure the regulator
terminal clamping plate are of different sizes.
Page 34
w
w
w
EXPLODED VIEW OF DYNAMO

Fig. 54
.h
75. Treatment of Badly Worn Commutator.

To remedy a badly worn commutator it will be
itc
necessary first to remove the armature from the

dynamo. (See dismantling, Para. 72).
Mount the armature complete with the end
hc
bracket in a lathe, rotate at high speed and take a light

cut with a very sharp tool. Do not remove more metal
than is necessary. Polish the commutator with very
oc
fine glass paper. Now undercut the mica insulation

between the commutator segments to a depth of 1/32
in. below the surface of the segments. A hacksaw
blade, ground down until it is only slightly thicker
ks
than the mica forms a suitable tool. Draw this

backwards and forwards along the mica until it is
undercut to the proper depth. See Fig. 55.
m
ot
76. Sticking Brushes.

Test by holding back the brush spring and moving
or
the brush in its holder. If the brush tends to stick,

remove it and clean with petrol.
Check spring tension as shown in Fig. 56. Correct TESTING BRUSH SPRINGS FOR TENSION
cy
tension is 10-15 ozs. Fig. 56

cl
78. Test and Replacement of Field Coil.

The fitting of the field coil requires the use of a
pole expander. If one is not available, do not attempt
e
to replace the coil. When fitting a new field coil, take

s.
care to tighten the pole shoe fixing screw to the fullest

extent.
co
UNDERCUTTING MICA
m
Fig. 55
77. Worn Brushes.

Brushes which have worn to such an extent that
they do not bear properly on the commutator must be
replaced. Remove machine from engine and withdraw
dynamo cover band. Remove screw securing eyelet on
end of brush lead. Hold back brush spring and remove
brush from its holder. Place new brush in holder and
gently lower the spring. Secure eyelet on end of brush
lead in original position. COMMUTATOR AND BRUSH GEAR
Fig. 57
Page 35
79. Test of Armature. REGULATOR AND CUTOUT.

The testing of the armature requires the use of a (Lucas Model MCR1, Type L33).
volt drop test or "growler." If these are not available,
check by substitution. 82. Description.
The regulator provides complete automatic
control causing the dynamo to give an output which
80. Special attention required if water has varies according to the load on the battery or its state
entered Dynamo. of charge. Normally, during daytime running, when
(1) Check fibre wedges located in armature core the battery is in good condition, the dynamo gives
slots. These may have swollen and become only a trickle charge, so that ammeter readings will
proud of the core. Cut level with sharp knife. seldom exceed 1 or 2 amperes. If, under normal
(2) Thoroughly dry out field coils and brushgear. running conditions, it is found that the battery is
(3) Remove drive end ballrace. Wash out and if
w
continually in a low state of charge, or is being

no excessive wear or roughness is apparent, overcharged, then the regulator should be adjusted.
re-pack with high melting point grease. Always check that the "D" lead (yellow) and "F"
w
lead (green and black) between the regulator and

battery are connected to their correct terminals at
w
81. Reassembly of Dynamo. both ends.

(1) Pack drive end bearing with high melting
.h
point grease. Refit bearing retaining plate. 83. Adjustment.

The checking and adjustment of the regulator
(2) Fit armature into drive end bearing and secure necessitates the use of a moving coil voltmeter
itc
by screwing the retaining ring up tightly. having a full scale reading of approximately 12 volts.
To check the setting, disconnect the cable from
(3)Pass coil leads through slot provided on the "A" terminal of the regulator and connect the
hc
commutator end bracket insulating plate. voltmeter between the "D" terminal of the regulator
or the regulator frame and some metal part of the
(4) Fit commutator end bracket in position on engine.
oc
dowel pins. Start the engine and increase the speed until the
voltmeter needle "flicks" and then steadies. This
(5) Lightly smear commutator end of armature reading should occur between the following limits:
shaft with oil and fit armature and drive end
ks
At 30°F. between 7.9 and 8.3 volts.

bracket into the yoke. At 60°F. between 7.8 and 8.2 volts.
At 90°F. between 7.7 and 8.1 volts.
(6) Refit through bolts with cupped washers under If the voltage at which the reading becomes steady
m
drive end and flat spring washers under occurs outside the limits the regulator must be
commutator end. adjusted.
ot
Stop the engine, release the locknut holding the

(7) Fit brushes into boxes and connect up brush adjusting screw (see Fig. 58) and turn the screw in a
tags with lead to "D" terminal and lead from clockwise direction to raise the setting or in an
or
"F" under their appropriate screws. The anticlockwise direction to lower the setting. Turn the
brushes are pre-formed and do not need adjustment screw a fraction of a turn and then tighten
bedding to the commutator.
cy
the locknut.
When adjusting, do not run the engine up to more
(8) Reconnect wires to terminals "D" and "F" on than half throttle as while the dynamo is on open
bakelite cover, making absolutely sure that circuit it will build up to a high voltage if run at high
cl
the correct wires are fitted to the respective speed and so a false voltmeter reading will be
terminals. obtained.
e
(9) To test-run the dynamo as a motor by 84. Cleaning Contacts.

s.
connecting the + terminal of a 6 volt Battery After a long period of service, it may be found
to the "D" terminal of the dynamo and the necessary to clean the vibrating contacts of the
co
terminal of the battery to the dynamo yoke. regulator. These are accessible if the top screw
Bridge terminals "D" and "F" with a piece of carrying the fixed contact is removed and the bottom
wire. The dynamo should then commence to screw slackened to enable the fixed contact to be
rotate slowly.
m
swung outwards. The contacts should then be cleaned

Remove the link at "F" terminal when an by polishing with a fine carborundum stone.
increase in the speed should be observed.
Reconnection of, the link between "F" and 85. Mechanical Setting.
"D" should slow down the speed again. The contacts are accurately set during assembly
and normally should not be disturbed. In the event of
(10) Refit cover band, taking particular care to see it becoming necessary to reset the contacts, however,
that the top half overlaps the bottom and the the following procedure should be adopted :
cork gasket is correctly in place. Ascertain Insert .015 in. feeler gauge between the back of
from the position of the magdyno which side the armature and the regulator frame.
faces the rear of the motor cycle and bring Insert .020 in.-.025 in. feeler gauge between the
joining band to this side. This procedure is top of the bobbin core and the underside of the
most important to prevent water entering movable armature (not under the stop rivet).
dynamo.
Page 36
Press the armature back against the regulator 89. Ammeter Faults.
frame and down on to the bobbin core, with the feeler Check for faults in ammeter by substitution.
gauges in position and secure the armature by
tightening the two fixing screws. Adjust the gap
between the regulator contacts when the armature is
pressed down on to the bobbin, to between .007 in. BATTERY. (Lucas Type PUW7E-5).
and .010 in. This is done by inserting or removing
packing shims at the back of the fixed contact. After 90. Topping Up.
completing the mechanical setting, the electrical When examining a battery, do not hold naked
setting of the regulator must be checked. See Para. lights near the vents as there is a danger of igniting
83. the gas coming from the plates. Remove the vent
plugs and see that the ventilating holes in each are
w
quite clear. Remove any dirt by means of a bent wire.

A clogged vent plug will cause the pressure in the
cell to increase, due to gases given off during
w
charging, and this may cause damage. Make sure that

the rubber washer is fitted under each vent plug,
w
otherwise the electrolyte may leak.

Pour a small quantity of distilled water into each
.h
of the cells to bring the acid level with the tops of the
separators.
Acid must not be added to the battery unless
itc
some is accidentally spilled. Should this happen, the

loss must be made good with acid diluted to the same
specific gravity as the acid in the cells. This should be
hc
measured by means of a hydrometer.

oc
91. Checking Conditions.

First ascertain that the battery is a lead acid type
and not a NiFe (nickel-cadmium alkaline) type, as the
same hydrometer must not be used to take readings
ks
on both types of battery. The state of charge of the

battery should be examined by taking hydrometer
readings of the specific gravity of the acid in the
m
VOLTAGE REGULATOR ADJUSTMENTS

Fig. 58 cells. The specific gravity readings and their
indications are as follows:
ot
1.280-1.300 Battery fully charged.

80. Adjustment of Cut-Out. About 1.210 Battery about half discharged.
or
If, after adjusting the voltage regulator and Below 1.150 Battery fully discharged.
reconnecting the wire to the "A" terminal, no charge is
registered on the ammeter, check the cut-out contact These figures are given assuming the temperature of
cy
points. See that these are clean and making good the acid is about 60°F.
contact when closed. Set the voltage at which the Each reading should be approximately the same.
points close to 6.2-6.6 volts, adjusting in a similar If one cell gives a reading very different from the rest
cl
manner to the Voltage Regulator (see Para. 83) but it may be that the acid has been spilled or has leaked
using the cut-out adjusting screw. from this particular cell or there may be a short
e
circuit between the plates. This will necessitate its

return to a Repair Depot for rectification.
s.
87. Regulators for use with NIFE Batteries.

A special regulator marked NiFe is supplied for 92. Cleaning.
use with these batteries. If a NiFe battery is substituted Wipe the top of the battery to remove all dirt or
co
for the lead acid type a new regulator must be fitted. water.
Note :-Do not leave the battery in a discharged
condition for any length of time. If a motorcycle is
m
AMMETER. (Lucas Type CZ27) to be out of use, the battery must first be fully
charged and afterwards given a refreshing charge
88. Removal and Replacement. about every two weeks.
Take out the three screws from the panel on the
headlamp and remove the panel. Unscrew the 93. Earthing Connections.
ammeter terminal nuts and lift off the cable eyelets. See that the lead from the negative terminal of
Bend back the four metal tags securing the ammeter the battery is securely connected to the cycle frame or
and remove the ammeter from the panel. other suitable earth.
Page 37
94. Charging. 97. Cleaning.

If the previous tests indicate that the battery is Care must be taken, when handling the reflector
merely discharged, and if the acid level is correct, the to prevent it from becoming finger marked. It can,
battery must be recharged from an external supply. however, be cleaned by polishing with a fine chamois
Charge the battery with a constant current of 1.2 leather. Metal polishes must not be used.
amperes until the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
the cells remains constant.
If the battery does not respond to a freshening 98. Bulbs.
charge it must be put through what is known as a The main bulb should be 6 volt, 24 watt,
"cycle." doublefilament type. If the filament in use burns out,
First charge as described above for a period of 10 reverse the bulb in its holder, thus bringing the other
hours and then discharge at the rate of 1.2 amperes. filament into operation. Re-focus the lamp to obtain
w
The time taken to discharge should be 7-8 hours. If the the best results from the altered position of the
battery discharges in a shorter time, repeat the filament.
charging and discharging cycle. If the efficiency of the The pilot bulb is 6 volt, 3 watt S.B.C.
w
battery is not improved by this process there is

probably an internal fault and the battery should be
w
replaced.
TAIL LAMP.
.h
HEADLAMP. (Lucas Type DU42). (Lucas Type L-WD-MCTI or L-WD-MCTIA).

itc
95. Removing Lamp Front and Reflector. 99. Removing Lamp.

To remove the lamp front and reflector press back To remove the cover carrying the red glass, twist
and pull away from base. When replacing, position
hc
the fixing clip at the bottom of the lamp. When the locations in the cover over the spring and push
replacing the front locate the top of the rim first, then home.
press on at the bottom and secure by means of the
fixing clip.
oc
The bulb should be 6 volt, 3 watt, S.B.C.

To remove the bulb holder, press back the
securing springs.
ks
98. Setting and Focussing.

m
The lamp must be set to ensure that the beam is

projected below the horizontal.
ot
To obtain the best driving light the bulb should be

correctly focussed in the reflector. To adjust the
or
position of the bulb, remove the lamp front and

reflector and slacken the screw on the clamping clip at
the back of the reflector. Slide the bulb holder
cy
backwards or forwards until the best lighting is

obtained and finally tighten the clamping screw. TAIL LAMP-CAP REMOVED
Fig. 60
cl
e
CABLES.
s.
100. Positive Lead to Battery.

co
Before making any alterations to the wiring or

removing the switch from the headlamp, disconnect
the positive lead at the battery to avoid the danger of
short circuits. The lead from the positive battery
m
terminal is connected to the lead from the switch by

means of a brass connector. The connector is
insulated by a rubber sleeve which must be pushed
back to allow the connector to be unscrewed. Do not
allow the brass connector to touch any metal part of
HEADLAMP-REFLECTOR PARTIALLY REMOVED
the machine as this will short circuit the battery.
When connecting up again, pull the rubber sleeve
Fig. 59 over the connector.
Page 38
LIGHTING SWITCH. (Lucas Type U39). If the horn is used repeatedly when badly out of
adjustment, due usually to unsuccessful attempts at
101. Method of Making Connections. adjustment, the horn may become damaged, due to the
All leads to the headlamp are taken direct to the excessive current which it will take. When testing, do
switch, which, together with the ammeter, is not continue to operate the push if the horn does not
incorporated in a small panel. The panel can be
removed when the three fixing screws are withdrawn.
The ends of all the cables are identified by means of
coloured sleevings. The colour scheme and the
diagram of connections are shown in the wiring
diagram (see Fig. 52). When making connections to
the switch, bare the end of the cable for about 3/8 in.,
twist the wire strands together and turn back about 1/8
w
in. so as to form a small ball. Remove the grub screw

from the appropriate terminal and insert the wire so
w
that the ball fits in the terminal post. Now replace and
tighten the grub screw; this will compress the ball to
w
make a good electrical connection.

.h
ELECTRIC HORN.
itc
(Lucas Type HF 1235 or Miller Type 21E). ELECTRIC HORN

Fig. 61
102. General.
hc
The horn is adjusted at the Works to give its best

performance and will give a long period of service
without any attention. sound. If, when the push is operated, the horn does
oc
If a horn becomes uncertain in its action, giving not take any current (indicated by an ammeter
only a choking sound, or does not vibrate, it does not connected in series with the horn), it is possible that
follow that it has broken down. First ascertain that the the horn has been adjusted so that its contact breaker
ks
trouble is not due to some outside source, e.g., a is permanently open.

discharged battery or a loose connection or short After adjusting, note the current consumption. A
circuit in the wiring of the horn. It is also possible for horn may give a good note yet be out of adjustment
the performance of the horn to be upset by the fixing
m
and taking an excessive current. When adjusting, do

bolt working loose. This can be ascertained by not attempt to unscrew the nut securing the tone disc
removing the horn from its mounting, holding it or any other screws in the horn.
ot
firmly in the hand and operating the push. The adjustment is made by turning the adjustment
If the note is still unsatisfactory, the horn may screw (Fig. 61) usually in a clockwise direction. The
require adjustment.
or
underside of the screw is serrated and the screw must

not be turned for more than 2 or 3 notches before
retesting. If the adjustment screw is turned too far in a
103. Method of Adjusting.
cy
clockwise direction, a point will occur at which the

The adjustment of a horn does not alter the armature pulls in but does not separate the contacts.
characteristics of the note, but takes up wear of The current when the horn is adjusted to give its
vibrating parts which if not corrected, results in loss of
cl
best performance must not exceed 4 amperes.

power or roughness of tone.
e s.
co
m
Page 39
LUBRICATION CHART
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
MOTOR CYCLE, SOLO, ROYAL ENFIELD, MODELS WD/CO and WD/CO/B, 350 c.c. O.H.V.
m
Part Lubricant
ot
1+2+3 1, ENGINE TOP UP (Capacity 4 pints) Castrol Grand Prix (or XXL).*
2, GEARBOX (Capacities: Standard Box, ¾ pint Golden Shell (or Triple Shell).*
or
Burman Box, 11/3 pint Mobiloil D (or B.B.).*

3, CHAIN CASE TOP UP Essolube Racer (or 50).*
cy
Motorine B de Luxe (or C).*

cl
4 4, REAR CHAIN Engine Oil or Grease.

e s.
5+6+7 5, GEAR CONTROL PIVOT Castrolease (Medium).

6, FORK SWIVEL PINS (6 points) Mobilgrease (No. 2).
co
7, BRAKE PEDAL PIVOT Shell Retinax C.D.

Esso Grease.
Belmoline D.
m
Castrolease (Heavy).
8+9 8, WHEEL HUBS Mobilgrease (No. 4).
9, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE Shell Retinax R.B. Grease.
Esso Grease.
Belmoline C.
10 10, MAGDYNO LUBRICATOR Light Machine Oil.
* The oils shown in brackets are recommended for use in very cold weather or at
any time when special motorcycle oils are not available.
Page 40
SUPPLEMENT
F0R
ROYAL ENFIELD 350 c.c. O.H.V. MODEL WD/CO/B

FITTED WITH BURMAN GEARBOX
Contract No. 294/C/13870
Frame and Engine Nos. 14001-17000 inclusive
w
w
w
CLUTCH. To obtain first gear the layshaft clutch is moved

to the right so that the external teeth on it engage with
.h
104. Dismantling, Reassembling and Adjustment the internal teeth in the layshaft first gear, thus
of Control. clutching the gear to the layshaft. Rotation of the
Machines having frame numbers 14001-15050 mainshaft now causes rotation of the layshaft through
itc
inclusive are fitted with clutches identical with that the mainshaft sliding gear, layshaft first gear and
described in paragraphs 32 and 33 (page 22) and layshaft clutch. In turn, this causes rotation of the
illustrated in Fig. 30 (page 20) of the main portion of driving gear through the layshaft small gear.
hc
this book. Later machines have a similar clutch with a To obtain second gear the layshaft clutch is
solid centre instead of the cush drive centre. This is moved to the left, thus clutching the layshaft second
illustrated in Fig. 62 and the methods of dismantling gear to the shaft so that rotation of the mainshaft
oc
and assembling the clutch and adjustment of the causes rotation of the driving gear, through the
clutch control are exactly the same as for the clutch second gears, the layshaft and the layshaft small gear.
fitted to the standard gearbox.
ks
To obtain third gear the layshaft clutch is

returned to its central position, thus freeing both the
GEARBOX. first and second layshaft gears on the shaft and the
m
mainshaft sliding gear is moved to the right so that

the teeth on the smaller end of it engage with the
105. Method of Operation. internal teeth in the mainshaft third gear, thus
ot
The method of operating the foot control lever is clutching it to the mainshaft. Rotation of the
precisely the same as with the standard gearbox, i.e. mainshaft now drives the layshaft through the third
the lever is moved downwards when making upward
or
gears and in turn drives the driving gear through the

changes and upwards when making downward layshaft small gear.
changes. The internal construction of the gearbox is,
however, completely different and is shown in Fig.
cy
To obtain top gear the mainshaft sliding gear is

66. moved to the left so that the teeth on the larger end of
The mainshaft (3) runs in the 32 T. driving gear it engage with the internal teeth in the driving gear,
(12) and carries on its splined centre portion the
cl
thus clutching the mainshaft direct to the driving gear.

mainshaft sliding gear (13), which has a gear at each
end. The mainshaft third gear (15) runs free on the The clutch is mounted directly on the mainshaft
e
mainshaft. and the driving sprocket is attached to the splined end

The layshaft (36) carries the layshaft third gear
s.
of the driving gear. Thus connection between the

(29) and layshaft small gear (34) or constant mesh mainshaft and the driving gear either direct or
gear on splined portions at each end of the layshaft. through one of the gear trains causes the rear wheel to
co
The layshaft first gear (30) and second gear (33) run be rotated by the engine at a speed depending on the
free on the shaft while the layshaft clutch (31) is free gear ratio which is in use.
to slide on the splined centre portion of the shaft. The kickstarter is operated by means of a
The gears are engaged by endways movement of
m
quadrant which, on depressing the kickstart lever,

either the mainshaft sliding gear or the layshaft clutch engages with a ratchet pinion on the end of the
which are controlled by operating forks actuated by a mainshaft.
camshaft which is operated by the footchange
mechanism. 106. Removal of Gearbox from Frame.
The illustration shows the gears in the neutral
position. Rotation of the mainshaft causes rotation of The gearbox is removed from the frame in the
the mainshaft sliding gear and the first and second same way as the standard box (see paragraph 13, page
gear pinions on the layshaft. As, however, these are 10, in the main portion of this book).
free to rotate on the layshaft there is no drive through All operations on the gearbox can, however, be
the gearbox. carried out with the box in position.
Page 41
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 42
107. Dismantling the Gearbox (if in the machine).

See Fig. 66.
Operate the foot control until the gears are in the
top gear position. Disconnect the clutch control cable
from the clutch lever on the gearbox, unscrew the six
nuts which secure the kickstart case cover and
withdraw this cover complete with the kickstarter and
foot control mechanisms.
Unscrew (R.H. thread) the mainshaft nut (22) at
the same time applying pressure to the rear brake
w
DRIFT FOR REMOVING

pedal. This will effectively prevent the mainshaft DRIVING GEAR BEARING
from turning provided that top gear has been engaged Fig. 63
w
as suggested above and that the rear chain has not

been removed. Remove the kickstart driving ratchet
w
(21), ratchet pinion (20) and spring (19), together

with the bush inside the spring. To remove the mainshaft ball bearing from the
.h
kickstart case remove the bearing retaining ring (18)

Now remove the outer half of the primary and washer (17) after which the bearing can be
chaincase, dismantle and remove the clutch and pushed out from inside the case using a drift as shown
itc
withdraw the clutch centre from the mainshaft (see in Fig. 64.
paragraphs 32 and 13 in the main portion of this
book). Remove the inner half of the primary
hc
chaincase and unscrew the driving gear nut (1) after

bending back the tabs on the lock washer (2). Remove
the rear chain, driving sprocket (4) and spacing collar
oc
(5). The mainshaft can now be pulled out of the

gearbox towards the left-hand side of the machine.
ks
Note: It is not necessary to disturb the driving

gear nut unless it is required to replace the driving
sprocket, driving gear, bearing or gland felt washer.
m
Unscrew the five nuts which secure the kickstart DRIFT FOR REMOVING
MAINSHAFT BALL BEARING
ot
case to the gearbox shell and remove the kickstart

case and the paper washer which makes the joint Fig. 64
between it and the gearbox shell. The mainshaft third
or
gear (15) can now be lifted away, but before

attempting to remove the rest of the gears it is The layshaft bush in the kickstart case can be
essential to unscrew the screwdriver slotted plug (see removed by means of a drift as shown in Fig. 65. The
cy
Fig. 69, No. 7) underneath the front of the gearbox at layshaft bush in the gearbox shell can be removed by
the kickstarter end. After removal of this and the means of the same drift, after removal of the steel cap
spring (see Fig. 69, No. 5) above it, the entire which blanks off the end of the bush. This cap can be
cl
assembly of camshaft, operating forks, mainshaft driven out from inside the gearbox by means of a
sliding gear and layshaft complete with gears and suitable drift.
e
layshaft clutch, can be withdrawn from the gearbox.

s.
Push the driving gear into the gearbox from

which it can be taken away.
co
m
108. Removal of Ball Bearings and Layshaft

Bearings.
To remove the driving gear bearing (11) first
remove the retaining ring (6) and lift away the outer
driving gear gland washer (7), felt washer (8) and
inner gland washer (10). Then remove the driving gear
bearing location ring (9), after which the bearing can DRIFT FOR REMOVING OR
be pushed out from inside the box using a drift as REFITTING GEARBOX LAYSHAFT BUSHES
shown in Fig. 63. Fig. 65
Page 43
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 44
109. Reassembling the Gearbox.

The drift shown in Fig. 65 is also suitable for
inserting new layshaft bushes. Suitable drifts for
inserting the ball bearings are shown in Figs. 67 and 68.
w
w
w
DRIFT FOR REFITTING MAINSHAFT

BALL BEARING
.h
Fig. 67
itc
No difficulty should be experienced in

reassembling the gearbox, the procedure, in general,
hc
being the reverse to that employed in dismantling it.

The following points should, however, be noted:
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
DRIFT FOR DRIVING GEAR

BEARING
Fig. 88.
cl
(a) When assembling the layshaft gears on the

e
shaft, make sure that they are in the correct order.

s.
Note that the layshaft small gear (18 teeth) is

wider than the layshaft third gear (21 teeth) and
that the splines at one end of the layshaft are
co
correspondingly longer. The layshaft second gear

(27 teeth) is fitted next to the small gear and the
first gear (32 teeth) next to the third gear pinion.
m
(b) Assemble the layshaft and gears, camshaft

with operating forks and mainshaft sliding gear in
a cluster before assembling these into the
gearbox. When doing this note that, if the layshaft
small gear is to the left, the pinion on the end of
the camshaft must be to the right and the small
end of the mainshaft sliding gear must also be to
the right. The small operating fork engages with
the mainshaft sliding gear, the larger one with the
layshaft clutch.
Page 45
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
EXPLODED VIEW OF CAMSHAFT

ot
(1) Camshaft Bush, Shell. (6) Pawl.

or
(2) Camshaft. (7) Pawl Spring Plug.

(3) Operating Peg (Camshaft). (8) Camshaft Bush, Kickstart Case.
(4) Operating Peg Cotter.
cy
(9) Operating Fork (Layshaft).

(5) Pawl Spring. (10) Operating Fork (Mainshaft).
cl
Fig. 69
e
(c) When assembling the toothed ratchet of the (d) Before replacing the kickstart case cover
s.
gear control mechanism with the gear on the end make sure that the end of the kickstart spring is
of the cam, see that the marked teeth are anchored on to its pin and wind up the spring 1½
co
assembled together otherwise the gears will not to 2 turns by means of the kickstart lever. The
be in correct register. Whilst it is quite possible to kickstart quadrant must be in such a position that
reassemble the foot control mechanism in one it engages with the ratchet pinion while the cover
m
complete unit with the kickstart case cover, it will is being pushed home.
probably be found simpler to assemble first the
ratchet, control sector quadrant, gear sector and
sector spindle into the kickstart case and the foot The spring must not close up solid when the
control lever bush, control bush bolt, spring box kickstarter is operated, but at the same time must
and springs, control quadrant, ratchet sleeve, have sufficient tension to hold the pedal firmly in
pawl, pawl operating peg and pawl spindle into the normal upright position. If the spring has
the kickstart case cover. insufficient tension or closes up solid, adjust by
removing the inner end from the kickstart spindle
Make sure that the pawl is put back the same boss and refitting one or two notches further
way round as it was originally fitted as it may not round as required.
engage correctly if reversed.
Page 46
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
EXPLODED VIEW OF FOOT CHANGE MECHANISM

ot
(1) Sector Spindle Bush. (11) Main Spring.

(2) Sector Spindle Nut, 7/16 in. (12) Pawl Spring.
(3) Sector Spindle. (13) Pawl Spring Plate.
or
(4) Control Quadrant. (14) Pawl Operating Peg.

(5) Ratchet Sleeve. (15) Pawl Spindle.
cy
(6) Spring Box. (16) Footchange Pawl.

(7) Spring Box Cover Plate. (17) Ratchet.
cl
(8) Foot Control Lever Bush. (18) Control Sector Quadrant.

(9) Control Bush Bolt. (19) Gear Sector.
e
(10) Main Spring Plate.

s.
Fig. 70
co
110. Camshaft. 111. Foot Change Mechanism.

The camshaft is shown in Fig. 69. If it is required This mechanism, though apparently complicated,
m
to remove one of the operating forks the operating peg is actually quite simple in operation. The details of the
must first be withdrawn after removal of the split mechanism are shown in Fig. 70. The foot control
cotter which secures it. When refitting the forks, note lever is mounted on the ratchet sleeve (5) and
that the one with the small forked end is fitted at the movement of the lever turns the ratchet sleeve and
end of the camshaft furthest from the operating gear. with it the control quadrant (4). During the first part
Note also that the operating forks are assembled with of the movement the pawl spindle (15) tips the
their forked ends next to each other. When replacing footchange pawl (16) until it engages in one of the
the operating pegs make sure that they are the correct teeth in the ratchet (17). At the same time one of the
way round as they are chamfered to clear the inside of pawl springs (12) in the spring box (6) is compressed.
the gearbox casing. Further movement of the ratchet sleeve (5) and
Page 47
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
EXPLODED VIEW OF KICKSTARTER MECHANISM

(1) Kickstart Spindle Bush (Inner). (7) Kickstart Lever Pedal.
(2) Kickstart Spindle. (8) Kickstart Lever 5/16 in. Bolt Nut.
m
(3) Kickstart Spring. (9) Kickstart Lever 5/16 in. Bolt.

(4) Kickstart Spindle Bush. (10) Kickstart Quadrant.
ot
(5) Kickstart Lever Spring Clip. (11) Kickstart Stop Peg Rubber with Sleeve.
(6) Kickstart Lever. (12) Kickstart Stop Peg.
or
Fig. 71
cy
control quadrant (4) causes the ratchet (17) to move, 112. Kickstarter Mechanism.
carrying with it the control sector quadrant (18) and
cl
gear sector (19) which thus turns the gear on the end This is shown in Fig. 71. Operation of the lever
of the camshaft (see Fig. 69). At the same time the (6) rotates the quadrant (10) which engages with the
e
spring box (6) itself pivots, compressing one of the ratchet pinion (20 in Fig. 66) and rotates the engine
main springs (11) until further movement of the through the driving ratchet, mainshaft, clutch and
s.
control lever is prevented by one of the stops formed primary chain. When the engine starts, the ratchet
on the spring box. On releasing the control lever the pinion over-runs the driving ratchet until the kickstart
co
springs in the spring box return the box, control lever is returned to its normal position, when the
quadrant and pawl to their normal positions, but quadrant disengages from the ratchet pinion and
movement of the ratchet, control sector quadrant, gear allows the pinion to rotate with the mainshaft and
sector and camshaft is prevented by the gear indexing
m
driving ratchet.
pawl which engages with grooves cut in the camshaft
(Fig. 69). Thus on the return of the pedal the pawl (16) It is important to make sure that the kickstart
slides over one of the ratchet teeth and is ready to pick lever is returned fully home so that the quadrant is
up the next tooth when the control lever is operated disengaged from the ratchet pinion, otherwise the
again. latter may seize on the mainshaft and do a
The sector spindle (3) moves with the control considerable amount of damage. If the kickstart
sector quadrant (18) and carries on its outer end the spring is broken or weak, pick the lever up by hand
gear indicator, the position of which thus indicates and place it in position so that the kickstart lever
which gear is engaged. Note that this gear indicator is spring clip (5) will hold it in place. Early boxes were
in line with the small fixed indicator when the gears not fitted with this spring clip, but should have been
are in neutral. modified in service.
Page 48
When operating the kickstart lever, ease the pinion to the mainshaft and the nut which secures the
quadrant into engagement with the ratchet pinion by driving sprocket to the driving gear.
operating the lever slowly with the clutch lifted.
Perhaps the simplest way of holding these is to
If the quadrant jams on engagement do not try to make a chain grip by attaching a length of rear driving
force it, but engage second gear and rock the machine chain to a steel rod and then to wrap the chain round
backwards with the exhaust lifter raised. This will the driving sprocket, which will be prevented from
disengage the quadrant from the ratchet pinion. turning by holding the rod. If the gear control is
placed in the top gear position, holding the driving
sprocket will also prevent the mainshaft from turning.
113. Dismantling and Reassembling Gearbox
w
when Removed from Frame. 114. Lubrication.

The method of doing this is exactly the same as After assembly pack the gearbox half-full
w
when the box is in the frame but some difficulty may with Castrolease (Medium), Mobilgrease (No. 2),
be experienced in preventing the mainshaft and Shell Retinax C.D., *Esso Grease or Belmoline
w
driving gear from rotating when undoing or tightening D.

up the nuts which secure the clutch centre and ratchet
.h
itc
hc
oc
DATA
ks
The following items of data shown under the heading

m
Clearance in Clutch Control ..... ...... .. ........ 1/16 in.

TRANSMISSION, on page 5 in the main section of
Gearbox Ball Bearings -
this book, require revision to suit the Burman Large Internal Dia ..... ... 1.9/32 in.
ot
gearbox: External Dia . ... 62 m.m.

Width .............. ... 16 m.m.
or
Chains-Front ............. 75 pitches ½ in. P. x .305 in. W Small-Internal Dia . ... 17 m.m.
Rear ........................ 89 pitches 5/8 in. P. x .380 in. W External Dia. ... 40 m.m.
cy
Gear Ratios: First 17.85 to 1. Width .............. .. ... 12 m.m.

Second... 11.75 to 1 Gearbox Layshaft Bearings -
Third... 7.23 to 1.
cl
(Compo. bushes, must not be reamered)

Top.. 5.65 to 1. Internal Dia. after fitting .6115 in.
e
Clutch Thrust Rod Length-- ..... long part 9.7/16 in. Oil Capacity ... ..... ... ..... ... ..... ... ..... 1.1/3 pints.
short part 1.7/8 in.
s.
co
m
Page 49
INDEX
A D
Para. Page Para. Page
Ammeter ... ... ... ... ... 88, 89 73 DATA ... ... ... ... ... 5, 6
B (Burman Gearbox) ... ... ... 49
Ball Valve in Oil Return Passage ... ... 23, 24 17 Decarbonising ... ... ... ... ... 1-9 7
Battery Charging ... ... ... 94 38 Draining Oil from Engine ... ... ... 26 18
Checking Condition . .. ... 91 37 Dynamo ... ... ... ... ... 71-81 34
Cleaning ... ... .. . 92 37 Armature, Test ... ... ... 79 36
Earthing ... ... . .. 93 37 Attention if Water has Entered ... 80 36
Positive Lead ... ... .. . 100 38
w
Brushes ... ... .. 72, 73 , 76, 77 34, 35

Topping Up ... ... ... 90 37 Commutator, Cleaning ... ... 73 34
Bearing, Big End ... ... 6, 17, 19 8,12,13 Worn ... ... ... 75 35
w
Bearings, Main (Engine) ... .. . 20, 21, 22 15 Connections ... ... ... ... 74 34
Main (Gearbox) ... .. ... 29 21 Dismantling ... ... ... ... 72 34
“ (Burman Gearbox) ...
w
108, 109 43-45 Field Coil, Test and Replacement ... 78 35

Bearing, Small End ... ... ... ... 7, 17 8, 12 Reassembling ... ... ... ... 81 36
Bearings, Wheel ... ... ... ... 43 24
.h
Removal ... ... ... ... 71 34

Brakes ... ... ... ... ... 42 24
Breather, Crankcase ... ... .. . ... 24 17 E
itc
Bulbs, Lamp ... ... .. ... 98, 99 38 Electric Horn ... ... ... ... 102, 103 39
C ENGINE .., ... ... ... ... 1-26 7
Cam Wheels, Removal and Replacement ... 10 9 Complete Overhaul ... ... 1-9 7
hc
Carbon, Removal from Piston, etc ... ... 4 7 Plates, Removal ... ... ... 13 10
CARBURETTOR ... ... ... .. . 51-53 27 Removal from Frame ... ... 13 10
Cleaning ... ... 52 27 Reassembly after Decarbonising 9 9
Dismantling ... ... 52 27
oc
Sprocket Extractor ... ... ... 13 10

Settings ... ... 53 27 Timing Gear ... ... ... .. . 10-12 9
Slow Running Adjustment 51 27 Extractor for Clutch Centre ... ... ... 13 10
Chaincase, Primary ... ... ... 13 10 Engine Sprocket ... .. ... 13 10
ks
Chains ... ... ... ... ... ... 34-37 23 Magneto Pinion ... . .. ... 11, 14 9, 11
Alignment ... ... ... 45 25
Limits of Wear .. . ... ... 36 23 F
m
Lubrication ... ... ... 34 23 Flywheels . ,. ... ... ... ... ... 16, 19 12,13
Tensioning ... ... ... 35 23 Footchange Mechanism, Adjustment ... .. 30 21
Charging Circuit, Testing ... ... .. . 70 32 “ Cover, Removal
ot
... 28 19
Clutch ... ... ... ... ... ... 32, 33 22 Fork Links, Adjustment ... ... ... ... 46 25
for Burman Gearbox . .. ... 104 41 Swivel Pin Bushes ... ... ... ... 47 25
or
Centre Extractor ... .. . 13 10 “ Pins ... ... ... . .. ... 46, 47 25

Control Adjustment .. . ... 33 22 FRAME AND FORK ... ... ... ... 45-50 25
Cush Rubbers ... .. . 32 22
cy
Dismantling ... ... .. . 32 22 G

Reassembling ... ... . .. 32 22 Gear Box ... ... ... ... ... 27-3 1 19
Removal ... ... . .. 13 10 (Burman) ... ... ... 104-114 41
cl
Connecting Rod ... ... ... 17 12 Ball Races, Removal ... ... 29 21
Contact Breaker, Adjustment ... ... 56 29 Dismantling ... ... ... ... 28 19
Cleaning ... . .. ... 55 29
e
Lubrication ... ... ... ... 31 21

Lubrication .. . ... 54 29 Reassembling ... ... ... ... 31 21
s.
Crankcase, Dismantling ... ... .. . 14 11 Removal from Frame ... . .. 13, 27 10,19
Reassembling .. . ... ... 22 15 Oil Retaining Scrolls ... .. . 31 21
Crankpin, Removal ... ... ... 16 12 “ Washers ... ... 29 21
co
Replacement ... ... 19 13 Gudgeon Pin, Removal ... ... ... ... 2 7
Cush Drive Rubbers, Clutch ... ... 32 22
Rear Wheel ... ... 44 25 H
m
Cut-Out, Adjusting ... ... ... 86 37 Head Lamp ... ... ... ... ... 95-98 38
Cylinder Base Nuts ... ... ... 2, 9 7, 9 High Tension Cable ... ... ... ... 57 29
“ Washer ... ... ... 9, 14 9, 11 Pick Up ... ... ... ... 58 29
Dimensions ... ... .. 5 8
Head, Removal ... ... ... 1 7 I
“ Nuts ... ... ... 9 9 Immobilizer ... ... .. ... ... 59 29
“ Washer ... ... ... 9 9
Removal ... ... ... ... 2 7
Page 50
INDEX-continued
Para. Page R
Joint, Crankcase ... ... ... ... 22 15 Para. Page
Joint Washer, Cylinder Base ... ... 9, 14 9, 11 Regulator. (See Voltage Regulator) .. 82-87 36
“ Head ... ... 9 9 Rims, Wheel ... ... ... ... ... 40 24
Timing Cover ... ... 11 9
Push Rod Enclosure Tube ... 9 9 S
Valve Rocker Box Cover ... 9 9 Security Bolts ... ... ... ... ... 39 23
K Slow Running, Adjusting ... ... ... ... 51 27
Kickstarter Mechanism ... ... ... 28 19 Sparking Plug ... ... ... ... ... 68, 69 32
Spokes ... ... ... ... ... ... 41 24
w
(Burman Gearbox) 112 48

L Steering Damper ... ... ... ... ... 50 27
Lamps ... ... ... ... ... 95-99 38 Steering Head, Adjustment ... ... ... 48 26
w
LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEM 54-103 29 Dismantling and Reassembling 49 27

Lighting Switch ... ... ... ... 101 39 Suppressor ... ... ... ... ... ... 59 29
w
Lubrication, Chains ... ... ... ... 34 23

Chart ... ... ... ... 40 T
.h
Engine ... ... ... ... 23-26 17 Tail Lamp ... ... ... ... ... ... 99 38
Gearbox ... ... ... ... 31 21 Tappet Adjustment ... ... ... ... ... 12 10
(Burman) ... ... 114 49 Guides, Removal ... ... ... ... 15 12
itc
Hubs ... ... ... ... 43 24 Tappets, Removal ... ... ... ... ... 15 12
Magneto ... ... ... ... 54 29 Timing Cover Joint Washer ... ... ... 11 9
M Removal ... ... ... ... 10 9
hc
Magdyno Attachment Strap ... ... 14, 22 11, 15 Replacing ... ... ... ... 11 9
Drive Idler Pinions ... ... 10 9 Gear ... ... ... ... ... ... 10-12 9
Removal ... ... . .. 14, 62 11,30 Pinion ... ... ... ... ... 14 11
oc
Replacement ... ... ... 62 30 Shaft, Oil Release Valve ... ... ... 18 13
Slipping Clutch, Description ... 63 30 TRANSMISSION ... ... ... ... ... 27-37 19
Reassembling ... 67 32 Tyres ... ... .. ... ... ... ... 39 23
ks
Testing ... ... 67 32

Magneto ... ... ... ... ... ... 54-67 29 V
Dismantling ... ... ... ... 64 30 Valve Collars ... ... ... ... ... ... 3 7
End Caps, Removal ... ... ... 3 7
m
Drive ... ... ... ... 60 29

Pinion, Removal ... ... ... 11, 14 9, 11 Grinding ... ... ... ... ... 8 8
Reassembling ... ... ... 66 31 Guides, Removal and Refitting ... ... 8 8
ot
Test and Repair ... ... ... 65 31 Guides, Wear ... ... ... ... ... 8 8
Timing ... ... ... ... 11, 61 9, 30 Rocker Bearings ... ... ... ... 9 8
Mainshafts (Engine) ... ... ... ... 18, 19 13 Box Cover joint Washer ... 9 9
or
(Gearbox) ... ... ... ... 28, 31 9, 21 Rockers, Removal ... ... ... ... 1 9
(Burman) ... ... 107 43 Replacing 9 7
Seats, Recutting ... ... ... ... 8 9
cy
O
Oil Circulation ... ... ... ... 23 17 Valves, Non-Interchangeability ... ... ... 8 8
Consumption, Reasons for Excessive ... 24 17 Valve Springs ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 8
Filters ... ... ... ... 23, 24, 26 7, 18 Valves, Refacing ... ... ... ... ... 8 8
cl
Pump Discs ... ... ... ... 25 18 Removal ... ... ... ... ... 3 8
Pump Driving Worm, Removal ... ... 14 11 Wear on Stems ... ... ... ... 8 7
e
Pumps, Operation ... ... ... 23 17 Valve Timing ... ... ... ... ... 10 9
Voltage Regulator and Cut Out ... ... ... 82-87 36
s.
Release Valve in Timing Shaft ... ... 18 13

Lifting Pressure ... 23 17 Adjustment ... ... ... 83 36
Seal on Feed Nozzle ... ... 23 17 Cleaning Contacts ... ... 84 36
co
Tank ... ... ... ... ... 23 17 Connections ... ... ... 74 34
P Description ... ... ... 82 36
Petrol Consumption, Reasons for Excessive 53 27 Mechanical Setting ... ... 85 36
m
Tank Removal ... ... ... 1 7 Special for NIFE Battery ... 87 37
Piston, Dimensions ... ... ... 5 8
Limits of Wear ... ... ... 5 8 W
Removal ... ... ... ... 2 7 Wheel Bearings ... ... ... ... ... 43 24
Rings ... ... ... ... 5 8 Rims ... ... ... ... ... 40 24
Push Rod Enclosure Tube Joint Washers... 9 9 WHEELS ... ... ... ... ... ... 38-44 23
Alignment ... ... ... ... 45 25
Page 51
w
w
w
.h
itc
hc
oc
ks
m
ot
or
cy
cl
e
s.
co
m
Page 52

1945-1946 350cc Model CO

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

1945-1946 350cc Model CO

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

1945-1946 350cc Model CO

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

ROYAL ENFIELD 350cc O.H.V.

350 c.c. O.H.V.

OLDWICH LANE WEST

B93 0EY ENGLAND

Telephone 01564 783 192

Small-end Bearing .......... .......... .......... ......... 7 8 Magneto Drive 60 29

Reassembly of Engine .......... .......... ......... 9 9 Removal and Replacement of Magdyno 62 30

Valve Timing .................. .......... .......... ..... 10 9 Dismantling Magneto 64 30

Tappet Adjustment .......... .......... ..... 12 10 Reassembly of Magneto 66 31

Dismantling the Crankcase .................. .......... 14 11 Dismantling, Cleaning and Setting 68 32

Connecting Rod ............. .......... .......... .......... 17 12 Dynamo 71-81 34

Removal of Crankcase Main Bearings ............. 20 15 Cleaning Commutator and Brushes 73 34

Gearbox ......... ........... .......... .......... ............... 27-31 19 Dynamo 80 36

Removal of Ball Races .............. ..................... 29 21 Description 82 36

Reassembly of Gearbox ............ ..................... 31 21 Cleaning Contacts 84 36

Tensioning ...... .......... .......... .......... ..................... 35 23 Ammeter Faults 89 37

Limits of Wear .............. .......... ..................... 36 23 Battery 90-94 37

Removal and Replacement ..................... 38 23 Cleaning 92 37

Spokes ................ .......... .......... ..................... 41 24 Headlamp 95-98 38

SUPPLEMENT FOR BURMAN GEAR BOX 41-49. Page 3

15 Dismantling Flywheels in Vice ....... .......... ... ....... ... ....... 12

21 Mandrel for Fitting Crankcase Main Bearings ................. 15

69 Exploded View of Camshaft ... ... ... 46

Magneto. The wick lubricating the contact breaker face cam

Sides ....... .......... ... ....2.740in. ± .00025 in.

Width-Plain Rings ... ................... ... ....1/16 in.

(ground after fitting) ........................ ... ....1.625 in. ± .00025 in.

Width... ... ... 12 m.m.

Valve Tappet Clearance (with cold engine) Inlet .002 in.

Exhaust opens 75° before b.d.c.

Ignition Setting ... ... ... ... 3/ in. before t.d.c.

TOOLS SUPPLIED WITH MACHINE

TOOL ROLL AND CONTENTS

No. per Part Description. No. per Part Description.

1 24092 .380" x .343" hex. with .012" feeler).

2 24096 (3/16" x 1/4" Whit.) with .018" feeler).

1 16594 (9/16" Whit.) 1 3482 Screwdriver, 6", wire.

1 29043 (3/16" Whit.) 1 16007 Tool Roll (with strap-less tools).

1 29042 Tommy Bar (Bent)

1 27528 Oil Can. 1 27388 Chain Rivet Extractor.

cover over the valve gear, the carburetter, exhaust pipe

unscrewing the four nuts which secure it to the

2. Removal of Cylinder and Piston.

done so that the condition of the piston, rings and

five cylinder base nuts, (the fifth nut is inside the

by carefully scraping, taking care not to dig into the

To remove the valves from the cylinder head,

compressing the spring slightly and gripping the end

piston should be replaced. renewed.

INSERTING NEW BUSH

the inlet and exhaust valves, as there is a difference TIMING GEAR.

DETAIL OF JOINTS IN PUSH ROD VALVE TIMING MARKS

the two dots on the small timing pinion are covered by

tightening down the cylinder base nuts, work

compressing the push rod enclosure tube washers same spindles.

12. Tappet Adjustment.

and down clearance.

(middle hexagon). Unlock by turning the locknut to

push rod cup (bottom hexagon) to the left to take up