Marker Planning - Requirements of Marker Planning Noor Ahmed Raaz

Marker Planning | Requirements of Marker Planning
Requirements of Marker Planning

Noor Ahmed Raaz
Asst. Merchandiser
A.M.C.S Textile Ltd
Email: [email protected]
Marker Planning:
Marker planning is a conceptualizing, initiative, open and creative process, in contrast to
making up a jig-saw puzzle, which is an analytical, step by step and closed process. There is no
final planning solution to a marker. There are numerous solutions with tightly packed patterns.
The efficiency and quality of the marker also vary with the length of the marker. Hence marker
planner should be able to visualize the whole patterns accommodated on the marker.
The planner proceeds by first positioning the larger pattern pieces in a relationship which looks
promising and then fitting the smaller pieces into the gaps. Since most of the pieces are irregular
and often tend to be cavort shaped, one skill lies in discovering those edges which fit together
most neatly and placing side by side across the marker those pieces which fill the width most
nearly. The planner will then try a number of pattern placements, selecting the one which gives
the shortest marker. The work of the marker planner is subjected to a number of constraints one
of them is related to the nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment.
Requirements of Marker Planning

I. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished
garment
a. Pattern alignment in relation to the grain line of the fabric: Pattern pieces normally carry a
grain line when pattern pieces are paid down the piece of cloth, as is commonest with large
pattern pieces, the grain line should be paralleled to the line of the warp in a woven fabric or the
wales in a knitted fabric, where the pattern pieces are laid across the piece, the grain line should
lie paralleled to the weft or course direction.
Weft knit structure
In bias cutting, which is often used in large pattern pieces as a part of garment styles in ladies
dresses and lingerie, as well as in small pieces such as pocket facing and under-collar in men’s
wear as a requirement of satisfactory garment assembly, the grain lines will normally be at 450
to the warp. The designer or a pattern cutter may define a tolerance which allows the marker
planner to swing the grain line a small amount from parallel.
If the marker planner lays down a pattern outside the stated rules for grain lines, then the finished
garment will not hang and drape correctly when worn. This requirement to follow grain lines
restricts the freedom the marker planner has in choosing how to lay the patterns in the marker.
b. Symmetry and asymmetry: Many fabrics can be turned round (through 1800) and retain the
sane appearance and these are designated “EITHER WAY” or “SYMMETRICAL”. They require
no special action on the part of the marker
SYMMETRICAL
ASYMMETRICAL
In this case, if a fabric is turned round (through 1800) it does not retain the same appearance,
especially when the two opposite ways are sewn together. However, as long as the pattern pieces
of an individual garments all lie in same direction, which direction they lie does not matter.
Example of such fabrics are those with a nap or pile which is brushed in one direction and this
presents surfaces which show different reflection of light, knitted fabrics where the loops of the
wales always point in the same direction and the fabrics with a surface design which does not run
the same way when turned round but where either direction is acceptable.
c. The design characteristics of the finished garment: For example, if a vertical stripe does not
show a complete mirror image repeat, the right and left sides of garment may be designed to be
mirror image of each other. In this case, a marker is planned which uses a half set of patterns and
the required effect is created in the spreading of the fabric which places pairs of plies face to
face.
II. The requirements of quality in cutting

 For the majority of cutting situations where a knife blade is used, the placements of the
pattern pieces in the marker must provide a freedom of knife movement. A blade, which
has width, can not be turned to a perfect right angle in the middle of the pattern piece and
hence space must be kept which will allow a knife to turn to such corners. The amount of
space depends on the actual cutting method employed.
 Pattern count check to ensure that the complete menu of patterns has been included.
 Correct labeling of the patterns is essential to identify the cut components for all sizes. It
is the responsibility of the marker planner to code every pattern pieces with its size as the
marker is planned.
III. The requirements of production planning

When an order is placed for quantity of garments, it normally specifies a quantity of each size
and color. If the sewing room requires the cut components urgently, the marker planner has to
make two types of marker:
 Short marker: It is also made for urgent purposes of sewing room. This requires
comparatively less time but less efficient. There is also a chance of resulting in variation
in shade.
 Long marker: Long marker is made according to the calculated proportion of different
sizes which is more efficient but shade variation may result. In a long marker, more sizes
of garments (the garments may have smaller components) can be included which
ultimately reduce fabric wastages.

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Marker Planning | Requirements of Marker Planning

Requirements of Marker Planning

Requirements of Marker Planning

II. The requirements of quality in cutting

III. The requirements of production planning

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