Woodcraft 10.11 2022

PICTURE FRAME basics p.38 TINTED RESIN tealight p.
22
Projects, Techniques, and Products
21
TIPS
& JIGS
Make a modern
COFFEE TABLE
p.31
Dynamite
DINING CHAIR
Shop-made
SOAP FINISH
Table of Contents
31 Oct/Nov 2022 | Issue 109
44
22
Features
22 Tealight Centerpiece
Faux candles flicker through colorful
epoxy in this creative table-topper.
27 Shop-Made Soap Finish

Coming clean on a traditional
Scandinavian polish.
31 Glass-Topped
Coffee Table
27 A refined, splined piece of
minimalist furniture.
38 Picture Frames
Surround your artwork with
custom works of art straight
off your miter saw.
44 Contemporary
Dining Chair
A comfortable seat to
compliment any table.
2
38
12
54
Departments
04 Getting Sharp
• Fresh look, new
16
member, great team
06 News & Views This issue’s

• Take your best shot Contributors
• Happy birthday
• Multi-axis multimedia John Hamel has photographed icons from Paul Newman
• Low-carb finishing stands to Arlo Guthrie, plus Olympic medalists (and several
• New direction Woodcraft Magazine editors). His award-winning work is
included in the permanent collection of The International
10 Reader Showcase Center of Photography in New York. Check out his photos
on this issue’s cover and page 31.
12 Tool Reviews
• Triton TMNRTR Trim/ Ellen Kaspern, a graduate of the North Bennet Street
Plunge Router School’s Cabinet & Furniture Making program, is a member
of the Charlestown Furniture Makers cooperative in Boston.
In addition to designing and building custom furniture, she
16 Tips & Tricks has been teaching woodworking for over 15 years. See her
• A sled for small parts project on page 44.
• Mitered stop block
• Turner’s sandpaper holder
• Sizing sandpaper Melenahe Martin began her career as a violin maker
before venturing into instrument repair and restoration,
54 Woodsense furniture making, and sculpture. She is a community
• Monkeypod organizer for Women in Lutherie, and a Mentor for the
International Women in Lutherie Fellowship. Read her
article on page 64.
58 Great Gear
• Micro Fence Edge-Guide
• Golden Mean Calipers
Jamie Sumague is a Filipina born in Atlanta, raised
in LA, schooled in NYC, and rooted in Baltimore. A
64 Expert Answers seasoned lifestyle and food industry photographer,
• Shedding light on Jamie’s photos for Shop-Made Soap Finishes,
hidden finishing flaws page 23, are her first with Woodcraft Magazine.
Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

Cover photo: John Hamel
Getting Sharp Share your ideas.
We love hearing from readers! And there are all
kinds of reasons to get in touch with the crew at
Fresh look, new member, great team Woodcraft Magazine. Check out the details below.
General information:
4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A
s you have no doubt noticed, your leads the team that also includes first-rate
A favorite woodworking magazine
looks a bit different. But rest assured,
associate editors, Sarah Marriage and
Derek Richmond. Sarah brings a unique
P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102
800-542-9125
wrapped in this new skin beats the eye for design and a mission to increase Share a slick tip to win cash or a prize.
same vigorous heart. These new colors gender diversity in woodworking. See Here’s your chance to help someone become
and graphics are designed to draw you page 27 for her take on a safe, reliable, a better woodworker and get rewarded for the
eco-friendly finish. Derek, a skillful effort. Published tips become the

in; to make our woodworking content
property of Woodcraft Magazine.
that much more engaging. That’s all woodworker and writer, designed and built
our cool cover project—a glass-topped, Email us at [email protected] and
thanks to our new Art Director, Michael
put “Tips & Tricks” in the subject line or visit
Church. Michael’s stellar layouts are a Mid-Century-inspired coffee table (p. 31).
woodcraftmagazine.com, and click on Contact.
welcome refresh to these pages. As of For this issue, our great in-house group
Important: Please include your phone number,
this writing, he’s been with us for only teamed up with a few talented contributors
as an editor may need to call you if your
three weeks, but with his experience and to bring you even more outstanding trick is considered for publication.
eye for detail, it seems like he’s been on content: Boston-based furniture
Have a tough woodworking question?
the job for years. He understands what maker Ellen Kaspern co-designed the We’ll do our best to find the expert and provide the
it takes to clearly and accurately present contemporary dining chair on page 44. answer. Email us at [email protected]
our top-notch projects and techniques. Former Fine Woodworking editor Asa and put “Expert Answers” in the subject line.
Michael got interested in woodworking Christiana shares his method for making News & Views:
while working as a display technician at picture frames (p. 38) while Willie This catch-all column is where we do our best
to correct mistakes, publish feedback from readers,
the National Gallery of Art in Washington Sandry, “The Thoughtful Woodworker,”
and share other noteworthy news items. It’s easy to
D. C. He had complete access to their mixes resin and dye for an illuminating participate in this discussion. Just email us at
fully-stocked underground woodshop effect (p. 22). And on page 64, Melenahe [email protected] and
and was sure to take advantage. Now, Martin, who repairs and restores musical put “N&V” in the subject line.
Michael leads Woodcraft Magazine’s instruments, reveals her process for Submit an article idea:
art team, which includes our ace preparing projects for finishing. Do you have a story idea? We’d love to hear about it.
We are all dedicated to bringing you To find out how to submit an article, email us at
graphic design intern, Kelley Powell,
[email protected] and put
and a host of the best illustrators and the best projects, techniques, products,
“Submission” in the subject line.
photographers in the business. and inspiration for today’s woodworker.
Share photos of your projects:
In addition to overseeing the art Michael is no exception; his contributions
We’d like to see what you’re building. To show off your
staff, Michael also works closely with have already made a positive impact. work send your photos to [email protected],
our excellent editorial crew. Veteran We’re looking forward to more exciting or find us on social media.
woodworker and project designer improvements in the future. Stay tuned! ■
extraordinaire, senior editor Ken Burton
Subscriptions: (U.S. and Canada) Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
One year: $19.99 Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
Single copy: $7.99 P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
[email protected]
©2022 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All rights reserved.
Oct/Nov 2022 Vol. 18, Issue 109 (800) 542-9125
Woodcraft Supply, LLC allows the purchaser of this magazine
Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS to photocopy the included projects and techniques solely for
Chief Editor: Chad McClung
personal use. Any other reproduction of these projects and
Senior Editor: Ken Burton 024-953) is published bimonthly (Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar,
techniques is strictly prohibited.
Associate Editors: Sarah Marriage, Derek Richmond April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov) by Woodcraft
Art Director: Michael Church Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Parkersburg, WV
Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous. Always make
26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Printed in the United States. shop safety your first priority by reading and following the
Graphic Design Intern: Kelley Powell
Periodicals postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, recommendations of your machine owner’s manuals, using
Publisher: Beth Coffey
and at additional mailing offices. appropriate guards and safety devices, and maintaining all
Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard
your tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing protection.
Circulation Support: Christie Wagner, Rachel Herrod POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Please note that for purposes of illustrative clarity, guards and
Circulation: NPS Media Group Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, other safety devices may be removed from tools shown in
Video Producers: Kevin Reed Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. photographs and illustrations in this publication.
4
News & Views
Take your
best shot
As much as I love your projects and techniques, I
open every issue and flip immediately to the Reader
Showcase, dreaming of the day my woodwork
and photography skills will be good enough to
appear there. The woodworking side I can learn
through the rest of your magazine, but do you
have any tips on photographing finished pieces?
—Jonathan Freeman, Greentree, NJ
Woodcraft Magazine staff replies:

Digital cameras and even most camera phones
can take high-quality shots that do justice to your
work. A three-quarter angle that catches front and
side is better than straight on. And take a few steps
back to avoid distortion—you can always crop the
image later. You don’t need photo lights, but even
a pair of work lights let you control shadows better
than your camera’s built-in flash. And of course,
practice makes perfect. In addition, our website
features several free photo tips. From lighting and
composing to building a tripod for your camera.
Go to woodcraftmagazine.com and click on the
Photography Tips button on our homepage.
Happy birthday
Swedish
workbench
maker Sjöbergs
celebrates its
100th anniversary this year. Founded in 1922, the
company still makes its benches largely by hand,
with a commitment to sustainability. In 1959, a son
of the founder traveled to the United States with
a miniature version of the company’s carpenter’s
bench tucked into a briefcase. The immediate interest
necessitated a full-size bench be shipped across the
Atlantic, eventually ending up in Sacramento where
it won a gold medal for good design. The U.S. has
been Sjöbergs’ largest bench market ever since.
6
Multi-axis multimedia
Ken Burton’s multi-axis bowl story (Feb/Mar 22)
spurred production of a video detailing the eccentric
turning technique. You can view that full-length
video – along with others – on our website at
woodcraftmagazine.com. Plus, follow us on your
favorite social media platforms for other video content.
Low-carb
finishing stands
I liked the tip in the Aug/Sept 22 issue that
suggested using pizza protectors as finishing stands.
Over the years, I seem to have collected a large
number of ¼" dowel centers. These fit perfectly into
the holes in pegboard, so I lay a sheet on my bench,
then arrange the dowel centers to suit the shape
and size of the piece I’m finishing. Their fine points
hold the workpiece aloft, and while they’re lower
than the pizza tables, they’re also lower calorie.
—Dorothy Hertzog, Roosevelt, NY
New direction
Matt Hoggle has been hired as Executive Director
at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship, effective
June 1. The Center is a non-profit woodworking
school located in Rockport, Maine. Hoggle
comes from The Contemporary Austin, where
he served as the Director of the museum’s Art
School at Laguna Gloria. He brings more than
15 years’ experience in non-profit arts education
and administration to the position, taking over
the Center’s reins from founder Peter Korn. ■
8
Strong Reusable Threads
Made Easy
E-Z LOK threaded insert
kits include everything
you need to make strong
reusable threads in wood.
Available in brass and
stainless steel. For more
information or to order, visit:
www.ezlok.co/woodcraft
THREADED INSERTS FOR WOOD

Reader Showcase
DAVID GRAVES
DEVON, PA
CNC critter cutting.
When he wanted to make
a half-dozen Oven Squirrels
(Issue 102, Aug/Sept. 21), Graves turned to tech.
After converting the pattern from our pages into a
CNC file, he loaded maple into his homemade CNC
router and quickly set to cutting squirrels. Graves
emblazoned each kitchen critter with the name of its
recipient. We’re sure he’ll squirrel away the file for the
next time he needs to batch some oven helpers.
JOHN PATALON
ERIE, PA
A place to fall. Woodworker Patalon designed and built
a trio of similar entry benches for his three daughters,
crafting one each from cherry, maple, and oak
(shown). After milling
lumber from trees CHIP EPPINGER
on his property, WADSWORTH, OH
he air-dried it for Quite an undertaking. Military veteran and hobbyist woodworker
several years before Eppinger says he conceived this terrifying toolbox as a casket-
beginning the builds. shaped trunk, but it evolved to include drawers and lift-out trays.
Each bench He built it of pine and plywood, and says that while the build was
features straightforward, the coffin angles were not. Eppinger cut all the box
mortise- joints by hand, angling them to fit the casket angles. He finished
and-tenon the build by casting his own skull feet and adding matching drawer
joinery and pulls. Eppinger’s finest hand tools now have a final resting place.
frame-and-panel
doors. Trying his
hand at marquetry,
Patalon adorned the
end panels of the benches
with a motif corresponding
to the primary species used – in
this case an oak leaf and acorn.
Show off your work!

ROY GILLETTE
Email
[email protected]
KALAMAZOO, MI
Wand-erful gifts. When his nieces and nephews chose Harry Potter-
Direct Mail themed Halloween costumes, this long-time subscriber was happy to
Woodcraft Magazine, turn each a unique wand. Ranging from 101⁄4 to 111⁄2 inches long, they
4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Box 7020, are made of (top to bottom) Brazilian ebony, olive wood, blue mahoe,
Parkersburg, WV, 26102-7020.
and ironwood. Gillette turned the wands between centers, leaving the
Go to woodcraft.com/gallery for submission instructions. ends blunted to protect little eyes from being made to disappear. He
finished them with linseed oil topped with wax for added protection. ■
10
Tool Reviews
HOT NEW
TOOLS
Triton trimmer could be
your go-to router
Triton TMNRTR 1.2 HP Trim Router with Plunge Base
IRWIN STRAIT-LINE
16' TAPE MEASURE
Dust collection port Micro-adjust knob A tough, fall-proof housing holds
Motor attachment screw a 11⁄4"-wide blade with a strong,
dual-side hook and easy-to-read
Plunge lock measurements on both sides.
Trim base In addition, a secure brake and
retraction control keeps the blade
where you want it as it extends
the full 16' without bending.
Plunge base
25' and 35' are also available.
Available at most home centers
for $17.98.
Roller adjustment knobs
Trimmer roller guide

PINNACLE RULES
These black anodized, extruded
aluminum rules with machined
Router table winder Spindle lock edges feature laser-engraved
measurements. 24", 36", metric,
and more are coming this fall to
Woodcraft. Check the website
for prices. 12" Straight Rule
Price: $179.99, #184295 compromising stability, the 1⁄4" collet fits #175851, Straight Rule Hook
Overview: common straight and edging bits, and Stop #179716, Universal Slide
• 11,500 – 31,000 RPM the soft startup keeps you in control as Stop #181120, 6" Straight
Rule #175849, 6" Thumb Rule
• Micro-depth adjustment on plunge base its variable speed spindle ramps up. The #175861.
• Depth stop on plunge base motor securely attaches to the base via a
• Adjustable roller guide for trim base thumb screw that threads directly into the
motor housing rather than relying on a
pressure fit. A knob on the base allows for
Trim routers are uniquely suited to minute vertical adjustment. The trimmer
certain jobs in the shop. They’re ideal base also accepts the included trim roller
for flushing up laminate and hardwood guide, effectively adding an adjustable guide SAWSTOP COMPACT
edging or adding small-radius roundovers bearing to bits without one of their own. TABLE SAW
Designed for space-starved job-
to corners. Plus, the compact, lightweight Triton’s offering includes a plunge sites, this tiny table saw features
design makes them easy to control single- base, adding even more versatility to this everything you’d expect from
handedly and adept at working in tight compact dynamo. The plunge base gives SawStop: power, precision, cut
capacity, and, of course, finger-
confines. It used to be that a trim router you the ability to easily make cuts that sensing technology. A centrally
augmented your routing arsenal, but start and stop away from the edges of a located knob controls all blade
depending on the work you do, Triton’s board—stopped dadoes, mortises, hinge adjustments, and the rack and
pinion fence is square and easy
new trimmer is powerful and versatile gains, and the like. While sporting its to adjust. This unit measures only
enough to make it your only router. plunge base, Triton’s trimmer opens the 231⁄2 x 27 x 141⁄4” h and weighs
68 pounds.
As a trim router, the TMNRTR door to a wide range of woodworking,
Available this fall at Woodcraft
functions as expected. In addition, its small including sign making, inlay, and even for $899, #184486.
base allows plenty of visibility without smaller-scale mortise and tenon joinery.
12 Prices subject to change without notice.

Speed adjustment
Power switch
WE STAND
BEHIND
OUR GLUE.
If it goes bad, even

Depth stop turret years from now,
we'll still replace it. facebook.com/
mercuryadhesives
It's that simple.
Edge Guide Available at your nearest
The plunge base features a depth stop turret and a

micro-depth knob for precision depth adjustment. It
accepts the included edge guide, as well as proprietary
guide bushings. The kit also comes with a winder
that allows depth adjustment through the router
base, useful for router table setups. Mount the plunge
base and motor setup below a compatible router
table, insert the winder and make height adjustments
from above without fiddling below the table.
In testing, the motor proved powerful enough to
handle everything I threw at it. This included plowing
a 5⁄8" wide, 3⁄8" deep mortise in red oak, a task usually
better suited to a full-size plunge router than a typical
trimmer. I found the springs on the plunge base to be
very tight. While that’s preferable to them being too
loose, they require a fair amount of force to plunge. I’m
hopeful they’ll loosen up over time. The 1½" diameter
dust collection port works well, but the collection
shroud does interfere with fingers and wrenches when
changing bits while the motor is in the plunge base.
Those minor grievances aside, the TMNRTR is a
great router. If you mostly make boxes, gift items,
and the occasional piece of small furniture, this may
be the only router you need. And if your shop tends
toward larger furniture, the clever bases, plunge
capability, compact size, and versatility of Triton’s tiny
titan will help earn it a spot on your router shelf. ■
—Tester, Derek Richmond
Photos: Derek Richmond Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 13

CLEAR-CUT TS
STOCK GUIDES
Model# 04301
™
SAFER, SMOOTHER AND MORE PRECISE CUTS

• Unique guide rollers mounted on a 5° angle
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• Under spring pressure, the roller arms ensure
your work is held firmly in place. MADE IN
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• Fitted with one way roller bearings to ensure each roller

spins in the direction of the feed to prevent kickback. jessem.com
Tips & Tricks
A sled for small parts

When crosscutting, it is hard to beat the precision and efficiency Hold-down
of a table saw. But when cutting small parts such as ⁄4" Pen
3
Blank
pen blanks, drawer pulls and such, I don’t like 1
⁄4" shim
getting my fingers so close to the Rear rail
blade. To make the process
safer, I built a dedicated
sled. It is comprised T-track
of an MDF base with
screwed-on hardwood
runners that engage the Fence
slots in my saw’s table.
The fence and rear rail
bridge the center saw kerf and help to Base
hold the two sides together. I dadoed the
fence to accept a length of T-track and screwed
the track in place before screwing in the fence and Runner
adjusting it for square. Then I made the
hold-down from two pieces of plywood
glued together in an L shape. After drilling
a hole in the longer piece, I added a T-bolt
and star knob to fasten the hold-down to the
track. I sized the hold-down to secure 1" stock when tightened.
For thinner stock, I add appropriately sized shims as needed.
—Robert Godwin,
Tyrone, Georgia
Mitered stop block

The seemingly simple process of making a mitered
picture frame can be fussy. There are several
things you have to get just right for the final
result to be square with tight joints. First,
the miter cuts have to be cut cleanly at
precisely 45˚. Second, the opposing sides
of the frame have to be exactly the same
length(s). To make this second part easier, I
like to clamp a mitered stop block to my saw.
Stop block
I find the angled end of the block is easier
to register the mitered end of a frame piece
against and is less likely to damage the fragile tip than
a square stop. For more on framing, see page 38.
—Dan Martin,
Galena, Ohio
16
Turner’s sandpaper holder Share a Slick Tip.
Win Cash or a Prize!
I do a lot of production turning making multiple bottle stoppers, pens, and
such at a time. Sanding a batch means frequently swapping out one grit of Here’s your chance to help someone
paper for the next. To keep the various grits from getting mixed up, I use become a better woodworker and
hook-and-loop abrasives and hang them in order from a strip of adhesive- get rewarded for the effort. The
backed Velcro adhered to the front of my lathe. I prefer to start with my winner of next issue’s Top Tip award
coarser grits toward the headstock, but do what makes sense to you. will receive a Woodcraft Gift Card
—Richard Entwistle, worth $250. All others will receive
Highland Lakes, New Jersey $125 for a published illustrated
tip, or $75 for a non-illustrated
tip. Published tips become the
property of Woodcraft Magazine.
Send your ideas to:

Tips & Tricks
Woodcraft Magazine
P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
-or-
visit woodcraftmagazine.com
and click on “Contact”.
Important: Please include your

phone number, as an editor
may need to contact you.
Hook-and-loop Adhesive-backed
sandpaper Velcro strip
Sizing sandpaper Hanger hole
I purchase sandpaper in 100 sheet sleeves. This

saves some money, and allows me to size it as
needed. To facilitate this, I made a cutter from
a piece of scrap plywood and a hacksaw
blade. I drew lines on the plywood
corresponding to the sizes of paper I
frequently need. The 4½" and 5½" lines allow
me to quarter the sheets for a palm sander, and
the 2¾" line gives me 1/8 sheets—a size I like to
use when sanding on the lathe. To use the cutter,
slide the paper under the blade and align it with
the appropriate line. Then pull up to tear the paper
neatly along the blade; no measuring required. ■
—Jim Kelly,
Trappe, Pennsylvania
18 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

Basic
BUILDS
By Willie Sandry
his tealight holder is a fun and inexpensive project, elaborate form to contain the epoxy, I poured it right into the
T and makes a perfect gift for a friend or relative. Its

highlight is the wonderful effect of flickering light
through bands of translucent colored epoxy. The “candles”
grooves in the block after capping the ends off with scrapwood
wrapped in non-stick Tyvek tape.
The finished dimensions of the piece are 3"-thick by 4¼"
are actually battery-powered flicker lights set in glass votive high by 10" long. Instead of sourcing 3-inch thick solid lumber,
holders. (Because there’s wood involved, I don’t recommend I glued four boards together to make an oversize block that
using open-flame candles.) Both the flicker candles and the I trimmed to size after pouring the epoxy. The one shown in
glass holders are readily available from most craft stores. the photos is made of maple, but you can experiment with
Any clear two-part epoxy resin will work for the colored different wood species and various colors to discover your
bands. You’ll need 24 oz. of epoxy—about 12 oz. for each favorite look.
side of the centerpiece. I tinted the epoxy with mica powder, Some of the steps in this project are simple enough for
available in many colors from several online sources (see the young woodworkers, which hopefully will light the candle of
Buyer’s Guide on p. 60 for what I used). Instead of building an woodworking passion in the next generation.
22
Glued-up block with grooves for epoxy
Four face-glued maple boards make up the 3"-thick block. Three holes drilled in the top
house glass votive holders with battery-powered flicker candles that shine and glimmer
through tinted epoxy. Two different-sized grooves on each face hold the epoxy. And an
arch at the bottom elevates the piece.
Fill grooves with

tinted epoxy.
Drill diameter and depth

to match glass holder
13⁄4"
⁄8"
3
⁄4"
3
1
⁄4"
⁄2"
1
41⁄4"
11⁄8"
3
⁄4"
1"
10"
3"
onlineEXTRA
Visit our site for a short video of the
centerpiece flicker in action.
Order of Work About the Author

• Glue up block Willie Sandry is a process guy. His designs often
• Saw grooves begin with inspiration gleaned from antique
• Mix and pour epoxy shops and old catalogs. After that comes
• Trim to size detailed drawings and mock-ups, followed by
• Drill holes drying his own lumber. “The more control you
• Cut arch have over each step of the building process, the
• Sand and finish better the finished product becomes,” he says.
Photos: Willie Sandry; Illustration: Ryan Tanguay Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Gluing and grooving the block
Face-glue four boards dressed to about ¾ × 4½ × 11½" to blade to ¾" wide and 9⁄16" high—half the depth. (It’s safer
make an oversized block that you’ll trim later. When dry, and cleaner to cut these grooves in two passes. Saw the
joint the centerpiece’s top edge, then plane the bottom to groove on each face, then raise the blade to cut the full
reach final height. Square up the ends at the miter saw for 1⅛" depth and repeat. Reset your fence and dado blade to
an oversize length of about 11". At the table saw, position saw the ½"-wide bottom grooves in the same manner.
your fence to cut the top groove. Then set your dado
Joint the block. Joint the top edge of the glued-up block to make Square the ends. Crosscut the block oversize in length at the
a flat surface. Keep the face of the block flat against the jointer miter saw. Trimming to final length comes after the epoxy has been
fence to ensure square. Clean up the bottom surface with the poured and cured.
planer to the finished height.
Saw the grooves.

After sawing the top
groove on each face
in two passes, reset
your fence and repeat
the process for the
narrower bottom
groove. Push pads and
featherboards ensure
safety and clean,
consistent grooves.
24
Mixing and pouring the epoxy
Each side of the block takes about 12 oz. of epoxy and is poured
right into the grooves one side at a time. Cap the ends of the
block with scrapwood covered with Tyvek tape (sold at home
centers), and pour the colored epoxy to fill the grooves halfway.
It’s important to mix in only enough colored mica powder to give
a pleasant color, while still maintaining a translucent look to the
dried epoxy. If you add too much mica, you might obscure the light
from the flicker candles. I used ⅛ teaspoon of mica powder for each
12 oz. pour.
Tint the epoxy. Mix the resin and hardener Air bubbles in the epoxy can spoil the light effect. After pouring,
before dropping in the mica powder. Stir the make a few passes over the grooves with a heat gun or hair dryer to
mixture for five minutes, then let it sit for a bring air bubbles to the surface. When the first side has cured, plane
few minutes to release trapped air bubbles. it to re-establish a flat and repeat the process on the opposite side.
Fill the grooves. After capping the ends Heat out the bubbles. With the grooves half full, make a few quick passes using
of the block with tape-covered scrapwood, a heat gun to release trapped air bubbles. Then fill both grooves to the brim, and
fill the grooves halfway with the mixture. make another pass with the heat gun. Let the epoxy cure for at least 24 hours.
While working with

epoxy keep a few
safety pointers in mind.
Wear long sleeves,
gloves, a respirator
and safety glasses to
protect yourself from
the chemicals. Be
sure to read all the
instructions and safety
warnings of the epoxy
product you choose. Plane off the excess. Once the epoxy
has cured, re-establish a flat surface at
the planer.

Trimming, drilling, and shaping
At the miter saw, crosscut the ends of the block to
finished length. Lay out the holes as shown in the drawing
on p. 23, and head to the drill press. Clamp the block
to the drill-press table and set the depth stop to nearly
the full height of the glass holders. It looks nice if the
rim of the glass projects slightly above the surface of
the wood. Drill a hole in the center using a 2"-diameter
Forstner bit (or whatever diameter matches your glass
holders). Then drill the other two holes. Next, lay out and
trace the arch as shown. Then bandsaw outside the line,
cleaning up at the spindle sander. Ease all the corners at
the router table using a ⅛" roundover bit. Rout the ends
first to minimize tearout. To polish the epoxy, sand from
120 to about 1200 without skipping grits. Use a clear Drill the holes. Clamp the block at the drill press, and set the
finish (I used Watco Danish Oil) as stains or dyes may depth stop so that the rims of the glass holders project slightly
minimize the flickering effect. A topcoat is optional. above the top.
Trace the arch. Lay out the arch as indicated on the drawing Bandsaw the arch. Cut just outside the traced arch at the
(p 23.) Then, trace the curve along the bottom of the block using bandsaw. And then finish up at the spindle sander.
a bowstring jig.
Insert the candles. Place

the battery-powered flicker
lights and glass holders
into the centerpiece
and enjoy the pleasant
mood-setting effect. ■
26
Shop-made
SOAP FINISH Five reasons to lather
on this traditional
Scandinavian polish
By Sarah Marriage
oap finish, a shop-made polish with
S a long history of use in Europe,

is becoming increasingly popu-
lar among furniture makers here in the
States. It’s environmentally friendly and
safe to use without PPE, and although
it only provides moderate protection
and durability, its simple formula, silky
finished feel, and easy reparability tip the
scale in its favor for many applications.
I first learned of using soap as a wood
finish when I was studying fine wood-
working at The College of the Redwoods.
One of my fellow students hailed from
Sweden, where the use of soap finish on
floors and furniture is more common,
and he used it to finish a dining table that
was sure to see plenty of daily use. I’ve
been enamored of this simple mixture
ever since. It may seem counter-intuitive,
but heavy traffic surfaces are where this
soft finish really shines. Dirt and grime
are easily cleaned up with the same
soap mixture, renewing the finish, all in
one step.
Perhaps the most compelling advan-
tage of shop-made soap finish is its con-
venience and affordability. All you need
to make this sudsy sealer is a bar of pure
Castile soap, some boiling water, and a
little bit of time

1 2
Natural look Easy to maintain,
and feel and repair
If you’re looking for a finish that For day-to-day cleaning of soap-
preserves the simple beauty of raw finished pieces, dust with a dry or Water ring
wood, soap finish is one of your lightly damp cloth. If you need to
best options. Once it dries, it causes sanitize the surface, reapply your
little to no change in color tone soap finish mixture: it also cleans the
or value. Although impurities in surface. If a stain requires sanding or a
the soap or minerals in tap water dent needs to be steamed out, attend to Scrub away the stain. While soap finish
could cause reactions with tannins the trouble spot and reapply the soap is resistant to water and alcohol, spills
in the wood, distilled water and finish locally, blending seamlessly into can leave a mark. Sop up excess liquid
high-quality soap will avoid this. the surrounding areas. Add a fresh with a cloth and use an abrasive pad
And taking the final step to buff a coat to projects at least once a year to loaded with soap finish to scrub away
soap finish will add a satin sheen maintain the protective properties of any stains left behind. Wipe off excess
to its appearance and provide a the finish, and buff the surface with a suds and wait a few minutes before
soft, silky feel to the surface. soft cloth to maintain its satin luster. buffing the surface with a soft cloth.
A clear choice. Causing little to no color change once dry, soap finish
preserves a raw wood appearance in comparison to other common finishes.
Black Walnut Red Oak Ash

Customize your recipe. You
3 5 can experiment with different

soap-to-water ratios to achieve
different consistencies. For easier
mixing, try a thinner mixture,
Inexpensive and Easy to make although you may need to wait
a day or two—or place it in the
convenient and apply fridge—for the mixture to gel up.
A 4 oz bar of pure, unscented Castile soap Soap finish is made by mixing pure Castile soap with boiling
will run you somewhere between $1.50 water. I prefer a 1:1 ratio by weight. First, shred the soap into
and $5 at your local pharmacy. Using a 1:1 flakes using a kitchen grater. Weigh out a portion of flakes into a
mixture (instructions at right), I was able mixing bowl; 1 oz is a good amount to start with. Pour the same
to apply three coats to a 3 × 5' ash dining weight of boiling water into the bowl. Mix until the flakes are all
table. Coverage will vary depending on dissolved. I like to use a whisk chucked into a hand drill to whip
your mixture, number of coats, and wood the solution until it expands to several times its volume and soft
species, but it will never break the bank. peaks form. Let this sit, undisturbed, for about an hour until it has
hardened to a soft solid. Then the finish is ready to be applied using
A cost comparison a rag or abrasive pad, as shown. Sand between coats with 320 grit
paper. Buff the final coat with a soft cloth for a silky satin sheen.
Soap, 4oz bar | $2.19
Cost (per 100 sq ft)
Grate the soap. Use a kitchen grater to

Penetrating Oil, 1 qt | $26 convert pure Castile bar soap into flakes
Cost (per 100 sq ft) that dissolve easily in boiling water. I prefer
buying and grating bar soap because of its
Wipe-On Poly, 1 qt | $19 wide availability, but you can also skip the
Cost (per 100 sq ft) grater by purchasing pure soap flakes in
specialty stores or online.
Hardwax Oil, 1 qt | $55
Cost (per 100 sq ft)
Whip it up. Stir the soap flakes and hot

water (be careful not to splash yourself)
until all the flakes dissolve. I like to chuck
a whisk into my hand drill and whip the
4 mixture into a frothy foam. This method

causes the mixture to expand to several
times its original volume, so be sure to use
a large bowl.
Safe and
environmentally
friendly Lather it on. After you’ve given your
mixture time to cool and firm up, apply the
Fragrance-free, pure Castile soap contains finish with a #0000 abrasive pad. There
no volatile organic compounds (VOCs). It will be suds, but keep spreading the soap in
cleans up with itself and water. It’s safe to wash the direction of the grain until the surfaces
down the drain, and soapy rags do not pose a are coated. Wait a couple minutes before
combustion hazard. Working with soap finish wiping away the excess. ■
is as safe as washing your hands.

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30
Glass-Topped
COFFEE TABLE
Angles and splines combine for an airy design
By Derek Richmond
or the last few years, the “table” between my couch and the joints, holding the legs together and attaching them to
F fireplace has been an old leather steamer trunk. A hold-

over from my bachelor days, it was too bulky for our
small parlor, and obscured our view of the fireplace. It was
the mitered frame which itself is splined together. A rabbet
in the frame holds a shelf, handy for storing coasters, maga-
zines, and the like. I used slate from a local quarry (they take
time for something new. In its stead, I designed and built this phone orders, see pg. 60) which contrasts nicely with the black
minimalist, mid-century inspired table. walnut I used for the rest of the structure, but a glass shelf or
The glass top shows off the elegant form of the curved legs, veneered plywood panel would also be suitable.
and minimizes the table’s profile. Three sets of splines secure

A study in splined joinery
The table’s base consists of a rectangular frame
with four legs angling out from the corners
to give the table a stable stance. The frame is
mitered and splined together and has a rabbet
cut in its top edge to hold the shelf. Each leg is
made from two pieces to prevent the short grain
problems that would arise should it be cut from a
single, wide piece. Splines in between the upper
and lower leg parts reinforce the joints. After the
upper and lower parts are glued together, the
leg blanks are shaped at the router table using
a template and an over-under flush trim bit. A RUBBER BUMPER
3
⁄4" dia.
third set of splines attaches the legs to the frame.
Rabbet
1
⁄2 × 3⁄8" deep
Frame detail
UPPER LEG
11⁄4 × 31⁄4 × 10"
Leg-frame slot
1
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 1⁄2"
30° FRAME SPLINE

1
⁄4 × 21⁄2" × CTF*
LEG-FRAME SPLINE
1
⁄4 × 4" × CTF*
5
⁄8"
LEG SPLINE
1
⁄4 × 3" × CTF*
Order of Work LOWER LEG

• Spline and shape legs 11⁄4 × 31⁄4 × 13"
* Cut to fit
• Make the mitered frame
• Attach legs to frame
• Finish up and install
glass and shelf
32
Leg pattern
GLASS TOP
⁄8 × 20 × 44"
3
45°
SLATE SHELF
⁄8 × 91⁄4 × 261⁄2"
3
SHORT FRAME 62°

1 × 21⁄2 × 101⁄4"
16"
SCALE: 1 square = 1"

LONG FRAME
1 × 21⁄2 × 271⁄2"
onlineEXTRA
• Full-size leg template pattern
• CNC file for leg template
Opening photo: John Hamel; Project photos: Derek Richmond; Illustrations: Christopher Mills Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33
Make the legs
Mill the upper and lower leg blanks to size and
miter their mating ends at two different angles as
shown. Also cut two 13⁄4"- thick spacer blocks: the first
a right triangle about 4 × 7" with a 62° and 28° base
angles and the second 4 × 5" with a 45° angle. Assemble
a simple sled as shown below, and use it in conjunction Upper leg
with the spacers to position the leg blanks as you slot
the upper and lower leg parts. Then mill a length of
spline stock to the necessary thickness (see drawing,
p. 32) and width before cutting the individual splines
to length. Note that for strength, it is critical that the Lower leg
splines’ grain runs perpendicular to the joint line. Glue
up the legs, using offcuts as clamping cauls. Print and
adhere the leg template pattern onto 1⁄2" plywood, then
cut and sand it to shape (or cut the template using the
CNC file from OnlineEXTRAS). Trace the template
onto each leg blank, centering the joint perpendicular
to the template’s flat front facet. Bandsaw the leg
blanks to rough shape, then attach the template to Miter mating ends. Cut the mating ends of the upper leg pieces
the leg blank and use an over-under flush trim bit at 45° then cut the mating ends of the lower leg pieces at a 62°
(see Buyers Guide, pg. 60) to finalize the leg shape. angle as shown.
28°
45°
62°
Slot the lowers. Install a 1⁄4" dado blade and adjust it to cut a 1⁄2"- Slot the uppers. Attach the 45° spacer block in the front corner
deep slot centered in each leg blank. Screw the 611⁄2° spacer block of the sled and cut the slots in the upper leg blank. This registers
vertically in the rear corner of the sled before clamping and slotting the same face of the legs against the sled and helps guarantee
the lower leg sections. alignment with the slots in the lower blanks.
34
Cauls
Glue up the legs. Glue the offcuts from mitering to

the leg blanks to act as cauls before gluing the leg
segments together. You’ll trim these off later.
Feed Feed
Shape the legs. Fasten the template to the rough-cut leg blank using double-faced tape. Chuck an over-under flush trim bit in your
router table and adjust its height so the upper bearing engages the template with the template on top of the workpiece. Start in the
center of the curve and feed the piece against the bit’s rotation around the end and to the center of the opposite side (left). Then flip the
assembly over, adjust the bit height to employ the lower bearing, and trim the other end (right).

Create the panel frame
Mill the frame pieces to thickness
and width, leaving each about an inch
overlong. Tilt the blade on your table
saw and miter both ends of each piece
at 45°, trimming the pieces to length
in the process. Cut the spline slots in
the pieces as shown, then size splines
to fit. Again, for strength, the grain of
the spline should run perpendicular to
the joint line. Cut a 1⁄2" wide, 3⁄8" deep
rabbet to accept the shelf material.
Install the splines and glue the frame
together. When the glue is dry, use a
chisel to pare the spline flush with the
frame’s top, bottom, and rabbet. Then
bevel the corners at 30° as shown,
to create bevels that are 11⁄4" wide.
Slot the bevels. With a 1⁄4" dado blade installed and tipped to 45°, set up your
fence on the opposite side of the blade. Raise the blade to cut a 1⁄2" deep spline
slot in the miter, located 1⁄8" from the frame member’s inner face.
Corner clamp Shop-made

clamping block
Shelf rabbet Auxiliary fence
Miter clamp
Spline
Stop block
Band clamp
Offcuts
Glue up the frame. Whether you use a special miter Cut bevels for legs. Tilt your table saw blade to 30°.
clamp system, a band clamp, or shop-made clamping Clamp a stop block to an auxiliary fence to position the
blocks, the goals are to get good pressure across the frame as you bevel the corners. Try to save the offcuts
beveled joint and to make sure your corners are square. to use as cauls when you clamp the legs in place later.
36
Attach the legs
To cut the slots for the splines that join the legs to
the frame, position the 28-62° spacer block to use
the 28° end as shown. Then cut one last spacer
block at 30° to use when slotting the frame. Cut
the spline slots in the legs with the sled you made
earlier. Make another carriage to clamp to your
miter gauge. Use this along with the 30° spacer
block to positon and cut the spline slots in the
corners of the frame. Mill spline stock and glue
28° the legs to the frame as shown. After the glue
dries, trim the splines flush with a flush cut saw.
Chamfer the bottom of the legs, sand and finish
the table—I used a Danish oil to enrich the
walnut’s color and topped it with a water-based
varnish for added gloss and protection. Attach
rubber bumpers to the tops of the legs before
Slot the legs. Using the sled and 28° end of the spacer block adding the slate shelf and glass top. Then sit back
from earlier, cut a spline slot in the flat face of each leg. Cut two and admire your splendid new coffee table. ■
legs with the spacer block toward the back of the sled, and two
with the spacer block toward the front of the sled. Mark the legs to
show which face was against the fence.
30° Glue up. Cut two 83⁄4"-wide pieces of plywood to hold

the frame level above a flat surface. Spread glue on
the mating surfaces and fit the legs and splines to the
Slot the frame. With the carriage clamped to the miter grooves in the frame. Make sure the legs stay in contact
gauge, position the 30° spacer block to register the with the surface below and the marked faces are
frame for the 1⁄4" wide, 1⁄2" deep spline cuts. Clamp the oriented consistently. Use the frame offcuts as cauls in
frame to the block before making each cut. the inside corners as you clamp the pieces together.

Picture Framing
BASICS
Create elegant frames with simple tools and techniques
By Asa Christiana
s a woodworker, it’s tough to buy pre-made picture A picture frame puts them on full display, so they need to be
A frames or shell out big bucks at the custom-framing

shop—especially when you have so much nice wood
lying around. Making frames yourself not only saves money
dead-accurate and chip-free. To make that happen, you’ll need
a reliable way to cut and assemble them.
Then there’s the contents of the frame. Everyone knows
but also lets you personalize your pictures. what they want to display, but may be less familiar with how
Despite the seemingly simple joinery, however, picture to incorporate the mat board and glass, how much room to
framing can be intimidating in its own way. The decorative allow for them in their rabbet, and how to hold them in place.
aspect is easy, as there are lots of wonderful details you can Last, there is a variety of ways to hang the finished frame. Not
create on a router table, table saw, or even bandsaw, and the to worry; in this article, I’ll provide some straightforward
miter joints carry them beautifully around the frame. But solutions using basic tools, ensuring perfect picture frames
perfect miters are trickier to make than they might look. that can be made by any woodworker.
38
Anatomy of a picture frame
Back rabbet, 3⁄8" wide
by 7⁄16" deep, holds
frame contents
Archival tape
Glazing push points
Glass or acrylic
Mat board
Backer board
(thick card stock or hardboard)
You can make picture frames from any wood. To

accommodate the back rabbet, your frame stock
should be at least 5⁄8" thick. For deep molding
profiles on the front face, increase the thickness.
The width of the parts is up to you, but should
be at least 1" wide for sufficient glue surface.
onlineEXTRA
Frame width • Free project download:
1" minimum
Frame with Piping
About the Author

Minimum frame
5
⁄8" Asa Christiana is a former editor of Fine
thickness Woodworking magazine, and the author of the
“Build Stuff with Wood” book series, designed
to take beginners “from zero to hero.” The
second volume, “Build More Stuff with Wood”
(Taunton Press), goes on sale
Order of Work in September 2022. Like book
• Mill frame stock one, it’s packed with stylish yet
• Rabbet the back straightforward projects, and
• Cut molding details will appeal to woodworkers of
• Miter ends all skill levels. A third and final
• Assemble frame book is planned for 2024.
• Fill and hang Vol. 1
Photos: Asa Christiana; Illustration: Christopher Mills Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 39

Rip and rabbet at the table saw
Rip stock that will be long enough to wrap around
your artwork and mat, making all the parts from Three decorative details
the same board for the best look. After milling
the stock to size, rabbet the back edge. The fastest You can cut any number of profiles on the face of
way to do this is using a dado head on the table your frame stockusing various tools. The following
saw, as shown. You’ll need to attach a sacrificial are just a few approaches. Whatever profile you
facing to the rip fence using clamps or double-stick create, make sure your frame stock is thick enough
tape, and then raise the spinning dado head into to leave at least 1⁄8" of wood above the back rabbet.
the facing, being careful to avoid your rip fence.
Sacrificial
fence facing
Face rabbet. This detail creates a nice transition

between the wood and the artwork. To cut it, slightly
bury a standard table saw blade in an auxiliary fence
facing, and feed the stock on edge.
Simple saw slotting.

Efficient rabbeting. Using a dado head partially buried
in a sacrificial fence facing lets you cut the rabbet to full
2 For a retro look, try
making a series of
depth and width in a single pass. For safe feed control, evenly spaced slots
use a push pad and push stick. using a standard 1⁄8"
blade set up for a
3
⁄16" deep cut. Move
the rip fence 3⁄8" after
each pass.
Save money on
glass, mat, and
backer board 3
You can buy glass (or acrylic),
mat board, and backer board at
a frame shop, but they are also hiding
in plain sight at your local dollar or department Easy texture. To create
store inside very inexpensive frames that are made a rustic-looking frame,
to fit standard photo sizes. Chuck the frame, keep prepare your stock
the contents, and save significant cash. If you dive by resawing it at the
deeper into picture framing, you can also cut your bandsaw. Then use the
own mats, glass/acrylic, and backer board. sawn surface as the show
face on your pieces.
40
Perfect miters at the chop saw
Frame miters can be cut with a variety
of tools, but a miter saw offers the most
straightforward approach. However, this
contractor’s tool needs some prep to cut
clean, accurate joints. First, outfit it with
a high-quality crosscut blade. Then adjust
the saw for a perfect 45° angle, and cut a
small sample frame to check its accuracy.
To ensure that opposite frame sides match
exactly in length, use a stop when mitering
the second end of each sample piece.
After establishing a perfect miter setting,
use double-stick tape to attach MDF panels
to the saw’s base and fence. Saw through
the panels to create zero-clearance support
surfaces, and then adhere sandpaper to the
fence as shown. You now have a clean-cutting
machine that can stay locked to the right
Saw prep. To minimize exit tearout, tape 1⁄4" MDF like this for all your miter cuts. For cleanest
panels to your saw table and fence to serve as results when mitering, plunge the blade
zero-clearance workpiece supports. Adhere fine slowly and steadily into the work, especially
sandpaper to the fence to prevent workpiece shift when the “show” face is oriented downward.
that causes errant cuts.
Three basic miter steps
1 2 3
Stop Show face down
Miter one end of each piece. After laying Mark the other end. To mark the second Miter parts to final length. When sawing
out and cutting the frame members to miter, lay your backer board, mat, or glass the second miter on each workpiece,
rough length, miter one end of each with in the rabbet, adding an extra 1⁄16
16" or so at use a stop to ensure that opposing frame
the “show” face up. each end. sides are cut to the exact same length.

Assemble, fill, and hang your frame
There are lots of products sold for clamping miters, but I
prefer to use a basic band clamp. It’s nothing more than
a length of nylon webbing with a ratcheting handle that
draws it tight, pulling the miters together while aligning
their tips. The clamp won’t automatically flush up the front
faces, but it leaves room for additional clamps to do that if
necessary. After applying glue and clamping, let the glue
dry for a few hours, scrape off the excess, and reinforce
the joints if you like (See box below). Sand everything flat
and smooth, apply finish, and fill and hang your frames.
Thirsty joints. The end grain of miters drinks up a lot of glue,

risking starved, weak joints. So spread glue liberally on both faces
of each joint, and add a little more on any dry areas right before
assembling the frame.
Glazing point retainers.

Place the glass, mat, artwork
and backer board in the back
rabbet, and secure them by
installing inexpensive glazing
Band clamping. Before you start spreading glue, points. You’ll need specialized
have a band clamp already set up just a little looser pliers for the job, but they’re
than necessary. As you tighten the clamp, press the cheap too.
joint faces into alignment, using traditional clamps
if necessary.
A call for reinforcements?

If frame miter cuts are accurate and glue-ups go well, I
don’t generally reinforce the joints, and I’ve never had a
frame break. However, it’s never a bad idea to incorporate
Centerline splines of some sort, especially if the frames and/or cargo
are large or heavy, or if they might get knocked from the
wall. Splines can also add a decorative accent, particularly
if made from contrasting wood. When I do reinforce miters,
I glue small “key” splines into slots sawn into the corners
Simple hanging. You can hang all but the of the assembled frame. (See OnlineEXTRAS for a project
largest frames with a sawtooth hanger that that addresses the whole process.) Also, if you have a
nails into place at the top center of the frame. biscuit or Domino joiner, you can easily add strong, hidden
For larger, heavier frames, use eye hooks and reinforcement to frames with wide parts. ■
picture-hanging wire.
42
W I N
PRODUCTS
BOW BUNDLE
GuidePRoOard
Featherb
$13LU0E+!
Read this issue closely VA
to answer the following
questions. PushPROk A Cutting
1-2-3 E-V- Blocks
Push Stic Support
18" × 24il"ity
1 How many splines hold High Visibat
Tool M
the Glass-Top Coffee

Table together?
2 What does Willie suggest using

to remove air bubbles from the
epoxy in the Tealight Centerpiece?
3 What are the ingredients

that go into Sarah’s Shop-
Made Soap Finish recipe?
Think you have the answers? Go to our website for instructions on how to win.
woodcraftmagazine.com
Simplified geometry
with a woven seat
By Ellen Kaspern and Ken Burton
ast May, we had the good fortune of teaching a pattern-routed back legs. The woven seat and back are
L chairmaking class together at the Yestermorrow

Design/Build School in Warren, VT. As we were
putting the class together, we knew we wanted a chair
easier on the backside than solid wood, and the design
is light and airy but still fits in well with many decors.
The 1½"-wide webbing for the upholstery is available in
that was: comfortable, contemporary yet classic, and relatively a variety of colors; each chair requires 25 yards. Construction
easy to build for woodworkers with limited experience. But we can be accomplished almost entirely with 90° joinery but
also wanted to include some sound chairmaking techniques also incorporates pattern-routing, a powerful technique for
to give the students a solid foundation upon which to advance creating identical parts. The class went well: In just five days,
their skills. As we put the class together, we developed the we had gone from rough lumber to folks weaving their seats.
chair presented here, which seems to tick all those boxes. The If you have a need for a dining chair or four, we think you’ll
chair’s comfort stems from the angles incorporated into its enjoy building this design.
44
BACK RAIL
11⁄4 × 11⁄2 × 17 3⁄4"
REAR LEG
11⁄4 × 43⁄4 × 321⁄4"
Shaped pieces
with square joints SIDE SEAT RAIL
BACK/FRONT SEAT RAIL 11⁄4 × 13⁄4* × 15"
The back legs are cut from a single
7
⁄8 × 11⁄2 × 17 3⁄4"
piece of wood and are bandsawn Rail tenon
10 × 50mm‡
roughly to shape before being
pattern routed to final size. The
curve in the back rails is also
sawn rather than bent. While
the side seat rail appears to be a
parallelogram, it actually begins
as a rectangle. The parallelogram
shape comes after the joinery Center mortises
25⁄8" from Side
is cut. As for the joinery, all the Stretcher ends.
pieces are connected via loose
tenons. In the class and in the
photos presented here, these SIDE STRETCHER CENTER STRETCHER
11⁄4 × 11⁄4 × 153⁄16"†
3
⁄4 × 11⁄4 × 17 3⁄4"
joints were cut with a Domino
machine, but they could also be Stretcher tenon
easily cut with a plunge router 8 × 50mm§ FRONT LEG
11⁄4 × 11⁄4 × 17 1⁄2"
and mortising fixture or slot
mortiser. Of particular note are Back leg detail
the small flat lands on the back leg
where the side seat rail and side 7
⁄8"
stretcher connect. These surfaces * Start with a piece 21⁄2" wide
† Cut to fit during the build
are parallel to each other and ‡ or 3⁄8 × 1 x 2" loose tenon
perpendicular to the floor. The 63⁄4" § or 1⁄4 × 7⁄8 x 2" loose tenon
seat and back are woven with 1½"
webbing. In the class, we used Front leg detail
1" Shaker tape. Both work well,
⁄8"
7
though purchase them first and
adjust the dimensions as noted 7
⁄8"
so that the spacing works out. 2"
5 ⁄2"1
5
⁄8"
151⁄8" Order of Work

• Make back leg template
• Pattern rout back legs
• Cut joinery
onlineEXTRA • Assemble sides
• CNC cutting file for • Shape back rails
template/back legs and cut roundovers
• Free project: Mortising Fixture • Final assembly and finish
• Seat Weaving Video • Weave

Make the back leg template
Cut a piece of ½" or ¾" thick sheet stock to size Back leg template layout
and lay out the shape as shown in the Back Leg
31⁄4"
Template Layout (right). After drilling the filets 2"
on the leg portion, rip away the front edge of
the lower part of the template to make the land
for the side stretcher. Bandsaw the rest of the
template just outside your layout lines. Clean up
the straight parts of the template at the router
table and the curved portion at the drum sander.
321⁄4"
6" rad. 13 ⁄8"

Lay out the template. Plot
the endpoints of the lines,
then connect the dots with a
straightedge before adding 13 ⁄4"
the curved transitions with
the help of a circle template
Filets
and a drawing spline. 7
⁄8" dia. 11 ⁄4"
513 ⁄16"
Drawing spline
161⁄8" 15"
113 ⁄8"
Make a stopped cut. Drill the two filets with a 7⁄8"

Forstner bit. Then make a stopped rip cut to create the
land for the side stretcher with the fence set at 513⁄16".
43 ⁄4"
6"
Straight edge
Rout to the lines. Adhere a plywood straight edge to the rough-

cut template with double-faced tape, aligning its edge with the
layout line. Cut the template to final shape with a flush trim bit.
46
Shape the back legs
Use the template to help plan where to cut the back legs bandsaw the back legs roughly to shape. Try to stay about
from your stock. Rough cut the pieces, then mill the stock 1⁄16" outside of the layout line to allow enough material for
for all four legs, the side seat rails, and the side stretchers routing, but not so much that the bit has to make too big
to size. Pay particular attention to the grain on the legs and a bite. Then rout the legs to final shape at the router table
stretchers, as these will be visible. The seat and back rails using the template as a guide. Note: when you double-
will be covered with webbing, so you can hide less desirable face tape the template to the blank, squeeze the pieces
grain patterns on these pieces. Retrace the template and together with a clamp briefly to ensure good adhesion.
Align for grain match. When you lay out the back legs on your stock, you’ll want to make the most of
your material but also get a good grain match. On wider pieces, you may be able to nest the back legs
(left). On narrower stock, it may make better sense to arrange the pieces in a zigzag pattern (right).
Cut with the grain. Chuck an over-and-under bit in your router Flip to continue. Turn the blank over and adjust the bit height so
table and tape the template to the blank. Adjust the bit height so that the upper bearing engages the template. Rout the remaining
that the lower bearing engages the template. Start at the center end to final shape, again starting in the center. Flipping the stock
and rout the right-hand end of the leg to shape. ensures you’re cutting with the grain as much as possible.

Cut the joinery
Cut the front and back seat rails, back
rails, and center stretchers to size. Note
that the lengths of the pieces worked
well with the 1½" wide webbing we used
for the seat and back. If you’re using
a different width of webbing, double-
check the dimensions to be sure there
is enough room for an odd number of
both cross and longitudinal pieces. You
can increase or decrease the width and Gang and plunge. On one end of the side seat rails, cut the mortises 7⁄8"
depth of the chair by up to ½" or so as offset from the outside of the pieces. On the opposite end, offset the mortises
necessary. Cut the side seat rail-to-leg to the inside. Ganging the pieces together when cutting adds stability.
joints before tapering the side seat rails.
Then rip them to final width, running
the tapered edge along the fence. Clamp Taper the top edge. Taper
the side seat rails between the legs to get the side seat rails from finish
the length for the side stretchers. Then width at the leading end to
cut the stretcher-to-leg joints as well full width at the trailing end.
as the stretcher-to-stretcher joints, the When loading the pieces on
back rail-to-leg joints, and the front and the sled, be sure to orient
back seat rail-to-leg joints. Note, when them so that you are not
mortising the lands on the rear legs for cutting through the mortises.
the stretchers, set the Domino to cut a
little deeper than usual to make up for
the gap that results from the legs’ shape.
Same thickness
scrap
Clamp and measure. Fit the legs to the side seat rails and clamp the Clamp pad
assembly together. Measure to determine the actual length of the side
stretchers. Cut the stretchers to length and mortise their ends.
Contact points
Burn an inch
for accuracy
Add a contact point. When mortising the stretcher
land, clamp the leg down and position a piece of scrap
of the same thickness to provide a second contact
point so that the Domino machine sits perpendicular
to the land.
48
Shape, assemble, and finish
Glue up the two side assemblies individually. Cut the curves in
the back rails as shown in the Back Rail Layout (below). Shape
all the edges of the back rails, front and back seat rails, and
center stretchers with a 3⁄16" roundover bit chucked into your
router table. Also, round all the edges of the side assemblies.
Sand everything through 220 grit. Dry clamp to ensure all fits as
planned. Then glue up. Clean up any excess glue and do a final
sanding. When all looks good, finish as desired. We applied a
coat of Seal-A-Cell followed by two coats of Arm-R-Seal.
Back rail detail

5
⁄8" 7
⁄8"
11 ⁄2"
Clamp from side to side. After final shaping and
sanding, glue up the chair, clamping across all the
17 3 ⁄4"
crosspieces from side to side.

Weave the seat and back
Unlike traditional Shaker tape upholstery that wraps
completely around the surfaces it covers, the webbing on
this chair only covers the top of the seat and the front of
the backrest. So, instead of being wrapped in long strips,
it is cut into individual pieces that are stapled in place.
While a manual staple gun will work, the process goes a
lot better with a pneumatic model (see Buyers Guide on
pg 60). Start by determining the length of the side-to-side
pieces for the seat by pre-wrapping an uncut piece. (Ours Staple, wrap, and staple. Fold 1⁄2" of the webbing over
were 29½" long.) Staple the front, back, and middle pieces and staple the end to the inside of the side seat rail. Wrap
in place. Then fill in the spaces on either side, spacing the it around the rail and across the seat. Wrap it around the
pieces evenly. Next, determine the length of the back-to- opposite seat rail and pull it taut as shown before stapling
front pieces. (Ours were 29".) Staple the middle and the it home (inset).
two outside pieces to the back seat rail before weaving
them across the seat and stapling them to the front seat
rail. To conceal the staples on the side-to-side pieces
across the back, the pieces need to be longer than those
for the seat. (Ours were 34"). Staple these in place, twisting
them initially to hide the second set of staples. Then add
the vertical pieces (ours were 16" long), stapling them
first to the lower back rail and then the underside of the
top back rail. Have a seat and relax; you’ve earned it.
Staple to the outside. Start attaching the back-to-front
pieces by stapling them to the outside of the rear seat
rail. Fold the ends as before to contain any fraying. Use a
towel or other padding on your bench to protect the chair
as you turn it to gain access.
Over and under. Wrap the

piece completely around the
back seat rail before weaving
it across the side-to-side
pieces. The two outside
pieces start by going over,
while the middle piece starts
by going under. Alternate the
rest of the pieces as you fill in
the spaces to either side.
50
Pull and staple. Pull the pieces taut as you wrap them
around the front seat rail. Fold over the ends before
stapling them in place. You may need to cut a little off
the pieces that run across the center of the seat. With
our webbing, we found leaving a 1⁄8" gap between the
pieces worked well.
Twist aside. To install a side-to-side Staple underneath. Start the vertical Weave and staple. Wrap the vertical
piece for the back, staple it to the outside pieces by folding and stapling them to the pieces completely around the lower back
of the leg. Wrap it completely around underside of the lower back rail. You may rail, covering the staples. Weave them
the leg and across the front of the chair. notice the side-to-side pieces aren’t as tight through the side-to-side pieces—the
Twist it up as shown before wrapping it as those for the seat. Don’t worry; you’ll outside pieces start in front, and the
around the second leg. Work it as tight as take up the slack as you weave the back. middle one starts behind. Pull them taut
possible before stapling. Then ease the around the top back rail before folding and
twisted part down. stapling them to its underside. ■

WoodSense
MONKEYPOD
Tropical beauty with a funny name
By Ken Burton
find it hard to say monkeypod with- commonly available. The wood is very History in woodworking
I out at least cracking a smile. And,

contrary to the environmental con-
cerns surrounding some tree species,
stable and highly resistant to rot and Perhaps the most famous use of monkey-
insect damage. pod wood comes from Hawaii. Follow-
ing World War II, the islands became a
monkeypod, (Pithecellobium saman also Where the wood comes from favored vacation destination. In response
Albizia saman and Samanea saman) is While monkeypod trees are native to to the influx of tourists, islanders began
something to smile about. Not only is Central and South America, the trees producing a variety of carved and turned
the wood beautiful, but the trees it comes have been propagated and naturalized souvenir bowls as keepsakes for the
from are both abundant and flourish- in the tropics around the world. One masses to take home. Nearly all of these
ing. While somewhat expensive here in story, for example, holds that in Hawaii, were made of monkeypod. These days,
the continental United States, in many a businessman brought two seeds to the while you can still purchase a monkey-
parts of the world where the trees grow, islands in 1847. Both of those seeds ger- pod bowl to commemorate your time in
the species is treated as a utility wood, minated, giving the tree a foothold in the sun, it was most likely made in the
much the same way we view pine and the islands. Today, all of the monkeypod Philippines or Thailand, where labor costs
poplar. The lumber itself runs from trees in the Aloha state are alleged to be are lower. Currently, with the renewed
golden to a reddish-brown reminiscent related to those two original plants. The interest in live-edge furniture, makers are
of mahogany. Some boards exhibit monkeypod moniker stems from the seeking wide monkeypod slabs for use as
dark streaks, while others can con- spiral-shaped fruit pods the tree pro- tables and desktops.
tain curl and other wild figure. duces: its scientific name Pithecellobium
Monkeypod trees grow fast means “monkey earring” in Greek. In Working and finishing
and can reach significant other parts of the world, the species is For a basis of comparison, monkeypod
sizes: 100' or taller and known as raintree because the leaves is about the same weight and hardness
3-4' in diameter, so tend to curl up when skies darken, allow- as cherry. The grain, however, is much
wide boards are ing rainfall to pass through the canopy coarser and tends to be interlocked or
to the ground below. “rowed.” The wood cuts well with both
Shimmery stripes. A lot of figured monkeypod features alternating darker and lighter stripes
and streaks. These shimmer as light strikes the interlocked grain.
TEXTURE TOXICITY RESISTANCE* STABILITY HARDNESS DENSITY

COARSE LOW-MEDIUM HIGH HIGH MEDIUM-HARD 37 LBS./CU. FT.
*resistance to rot and insect damage
54
Sapwood
Echoes of mahogany. With its reddish-brown hue and darker pores, monkeypod is very similar in
appearance to mahogany. Its creamy white sapwood can provide a nice splash of contrast.
hand and power saws, but planing and Monkeying around to avoid tearout
jointing can be challenging, with the sur- Writing this column is a lot of fun. Sometimes it is revisiting old friends,
face often appearing fuzzy and tearing in and sometimes, as was the case here, it is getting to know a new species.
places due to the variable grain direction. Preparing the samples for the photos is telling in how the wood responds
You’ll likely find scraping and sanding to surfacing. That monkeypod has rowed grain is no exaggeration. None
yield a far superior surface than hand- of the surfaces on my samples could be handplaned without significant
planing. The rowed grain can also make tearout. In fact, the tearout left from the initial surfacing (the boards I
hand-carving the wood daunting though purchased had been milled on both sides: “S2S”) was so bad that one
it turns and power-carves well. Unlike so of the samples still had small cross-grain checks even after a significant
many other tropical species, monkeypod amount of prep. In preparing the stock for the box (below), I found that
doesn’t contain a lot of oils and resins, the best way to achieve a tear-free surface was to run the pieces on edge
so it’s straightforward to both glue and through the table saw, taking about a 1⁄16" skim cut off each face. While
finish. It’s typically available as solid stock this worked for the relatively narrow pieces I used, for wider stock, a drum
in boards of various thicknesses from or wide belt sander would be a better bet. Other than the tearout issues
4-24" wide and 8-12' long. Pricing varies (and the relative cost), I enjoyed working with monkeypod and am now
from source to source, but expect to pay on the lookout for a nice slab
at least $16-20 per board foot and much to use for a coffee table I
more for wider and highly-figured pieces. have in mind. ■
You can also find veneer, turning blanks,
and smaller, craft-sized stock. Note that
the color can vary significantly depend-
ing on where the lumber grew. Wood
from Central and South America tends
to be yellower than stock from the Pacific
islands that skews redder.
Monkeypod
• Turnings
• Furniture
• Gift items
• Cabinetry
• Musical instruments Facets, facets, facets. Despite monkeypod’s ornery grain, I was able to cut
• Veneer the small chamfers around the box opening with a block plane. As the flats
were so narrow, I think I was lucky enough to miss areas of interlocked fibers.
Photos: Ken Burton Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 55

Great Gear
Easy and accurate

While the Micro Fence Edge-Guide has been
improving router functionality for 30 years, I Micrometer
Mounting pins dial
only discovered it a year ago. The Edge-Guide is to fit your router
Lead screw
precise and impeccably machined. You specify lock
your router model when ordering, so the
appropriate pins and mounting bar come in the Mounting bar
box for a perfect fit. It brings accuracy to nearly
all hand-routing operations, especially joinery. Fence
I use it mostly to rout mortises. Mark the center Guide lock Lead screw Guides
adjusting
of the mortise and butt the provided fence against Lead screw knob
the workpiece. Roughly center the bit over the
mortise, and lock the lead screw. Dial in dead center Micro Fence Edge-Guide
by turning the adjusting knob (clockwise pulls microfence.com, $240
the bit toward the fence; counterclockwise pushes it
away), and then lock the lead screw. The Edge-Guide also excels at cutting dadoes for shelves in a cabinet, say. Measure your
shelf stock with a caliper, rout the dado using the Edge-Guide and an undersized bit, and then measure the dado. Subtract
the difference and adjust by the thousandths with the micrometer dial. It’s reliably accurate, repeatable, and a joy to use.
—Chad McClung
56
Clever design aids Medium
When I teach turning classes, one of the questions that

comes up a lot is: “How do you make things look right
proportionally?” For example, where should the dividing cut
go when turning a lidded box? One good way to determine
this is to use the “golden mean,” a ratio of 1:1.618 that is Large
found frequently in nature. It’s also the basis of a number of
mathematical constructs, including the Fibonacci sequence.
But short of breaking out a calculator, figuring out what these
measurements actually are when you’re standing at the lathe Small
is a bit tricky. To make this a lot easier, I use this special set
of calipers. Made in three sizes by New Zealand craftsman
Nick Taylor, these delightful measuring instruments have
three legs that move in unison. Set the outer two to the overall
length of your piece, and the inner leg divides the space in
between using the golden mean. Very clever, Mr. Taylor.
If you struggle with proportions when designing, these
calipers may help you to produce better-looking work. ■ Golden Mean Calipers
—Ken Burton 3 sizes, goldenmeancalipers.com, from $35.00
58
Buyer’s Guide Ad Index
Tool Reviews (p. 12) ADVERTISER WEB ADDRESS PAGE
1. Triton TMNRTR Trim/Plunge Router.................................................. #184295, $179.99 Amana .................................................amanatool.com .................................................57
The American Woodshop .......................wbgu.org/americanwoodshop ............................19

Tealight Centerpiece (p. 22)
Bosch...................................................boschtools.com ................................................21
1. General Purpose Epoxy Resin, qt. .....................................................#124520A, $46.99
Carter...................................................carterproducts.com ...........................................63
2. System Three Slow Hardener #3, pt. .................................................. #124526, $29.99 Connecticut Valley School of WW ...........schoolofwoodworking.com ................................62
Following items available from craft stores E-Z LOK ...............................................ezlok.com...........................................................9
3. Mica powder Freud ...................................................woodcraft.com/Freud ....................................... IFC
4. Battery-powered flicker candles Howard ................................................howardproducts.com ........................................62
5. Glass votive jars JessEm ................................................jessem.com ......................................................15
JPW .....................................................jpwindustries.com ...............................................1

Shop-Made Soap Finish (p. 27) King Arthur’s Tools ................................katools.com........................................................9
1. Kirk’s Fragrance Free Traditional Castile Bar Soap ..........................kirkssoap.com, $2.19 Kutzall ..................................................kutzall.com .......................................................11
2. Norton Non-Woven Sanding Pad #0000, 6 × 9"................................. #146748A, $1.99 Laguna.................................................lagunatools.com ............................................ OBC
Lignomat ..............................................lignomat.com ...................................................13

Glass-Topped Coffee Table (p. 31)
Mercury Adhesives ................................mercuryadhesives.com .....................................13
1. Clear Rubber Bumpers, ⁄4" Round, 20 pc .........................................amazon.com, $9.97
3
Microjig ................................................microjig.com ......................................................7

2. Whiteside 2715 Over-Under Flush Trim Router Bit,
Milescraft .............................................milescraft.com..................................................58
7
⁄8" D, 11⁄2" CL, 1⁄2" SH ..........................................................................#149528, $47.99
Next Wave ............................................nextwaveautomation.com ..................................17
3. Slate Slab, Clear Natural Cleft, 3⁄8 × 9 1⁄4 × 26 1⁄2" ............. pennbigbedslate.com, $206.00 Oneida .................................................oneida-air.com............................................ 30, 56
4. Watco Black Walnut Danish Oil, qt ...................................................... #146169, $22.99 PS Wood ..............................................pswood.com .....................................................62
5. General Finishes High Performance Water-Based Varnish, pt ................ #85T61, $25.99 Rikon ...................................................rikontools.com ....................................................5
Rustoleum ............................................rustoleum.com .................................................19

Contemporary Dining Chair (p. 44)
Satellite City .........................................caglue.com ......................................................62
1. Whiteside 2715 Over-Under Flush Trim Router Bit,
Robert Sorby.........................................robert-sorby.co.uk...............................................6
7
⁄8" D, 11⁄2" CL, 1⁄2" SH ......................................................................... #149528, $47.99 System Three........................................systemthree.com ..............................................20
2. 11⁄2" Heavy Cotton Webbing, 25 yds..............................countrybrookdesign.com, $46.97 Titebond ...............................................titebond.com ....................................................53
Following items available from nailgundepot.com Thomas Flinn & Co................................flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk ....................................19
3. Grex 80ADLNS 20 ga. Long Nose Staple Gun ....................................................$159.00 Tormek .................................................tormek.com ......................................................14
Triton ...................................................tritontools.com..................................................30
4. 1
⁄2" 20 ga. Stainless Steel Staples 80/12............................................................. $59.13
Whiteside Machine................................whitesiderouterbits.com ...................................IBC
Great Gear (p. 56) Woodcraft Franchise .............................woodcraftfranchise.com ....................................63
1. Micro Fence Edge Guide..........................................................microfence.com, $279.00 Woodcraft Magazine .............................woodcraftmagazine.com ......................... 8, 43, 62
2. Golden Mean Calipers, set of 3.................................. goldenmeancalipers.com, $185.00 Woodcraft Supply ..................................woodcraft.com............................................ 52, 61
Items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com, or by calling

(800) 225-1153, unless otherwise noted. Prices subject to change
without notice.
60
62
Expert Answers
Shedding light on hidden finishing flaws

Sometimes, after I’ve sanded and finished a piece, I’ll take it outside or into another room and notice scratches and machine
marks on the surface that I didn’t see as I was working in my shop. What can I do to make sure my work isn’t covered in
scratches waiting to surprise me in a different light?
Grady Housel
Charleston, SC
As we excitedly approach on each bench in my shop. This

the “finish” line of our set-up allows me to move the
projects, we need to slow lamps around without having to
down and check for scratches fuss with unwieldy clamps or
and tool marks. But even taking jigs, as I periodically inspect my
our time won’t do the job unless pre-varnish surfaces. As I check
we inspect our work under light over my work, I pull my lamp
cast at a low, “raking” angle. down to just above or next to each
Raking light is a critical tool in surface, casting light across the
the surface preparation process. plane, creating shadows where
It spreads across the work, there might be scratches.
emphasizing dents and scraper/ Before you start applying
sandpaper marks, accentuating finish to a piece, look over your
shadows, and pointing to missed work under raking light again.
spots that are difficult to see with Be sure to pay close attention
standard room lighting. It doesn’t to the edges of surfaces, where
Saw marks really “highlight” trouble spots most defects hide. If you find
but instead “lowdarks” them with scratches or machine marks,
shadows. I know I just made up don’t try to sand them out with
a word, but it works. If you are the finer grits. Start with your
lucky enough to have windows in coarsest grit, spreading further
Low-slung your workshop, you can borrow out with each finer grit. Or resand
Planer marks architect lamp raking light in the morning as the the entire surface, checking it
sun rises or in the evening as it with raking light between grits.
sets. If not, you can use adjustable Don’t be daunted, the second
architect lamps, which mount to time will be faster, and your effort
the workbench in 1⁄2" holes as will shine through the finish.
shown. I use three such lamps
Have a tough
woodworking question?
We’ll do our best to find the expert
and provide the answer.
Email us at Melenahe Martin
[email protected], Melenahe is a luthier and owner of Martin Violins and
and put “EXPERT ANSWERS” Fine Woodworking in Baltimore, MD, where she splits
in the subject line. her time among lutherie, furniture making, and sculpture.
64

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PICTURE FRAME basics p.38 TINTED RESIN tealight p.

Projects, Techniques, and Products

27 Shop-Made Soap Finish

06 News & Views This issue’s

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 3

eco-friendly finish. Derek, a skillful effort. Published tips become the

Woodcraft Magazine staff replies:

THREADED INSERTS FOR WOOD

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 9

Show off your work!

Roller adjustment knobs

Trimmer roller guide

12 Prices subject to change without notice.

If it goes bad, even

The plunge base features a depth stop turret and a

Photos: Derek Richmond Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 13

SAFER, SMOOTHER AND MORE PRECISE CUTS

• Fitted with one way roller bearings to ensure each roller

A sled for small parts

Mitered stop block

Send your ideas to:

Important: Please include your

Sizing sandpaper Hanger hole

I purchase sandpaper in 100 sheet sleeves. This

18 Illustrations: Christopher Mills

T and makes a perfect gift for a friend or relative. Its

Fill grooves with

Drill diameter and depth

Order of Work About the Author

Photos: Willie Sandry; Illustration: Ryan Tanguay Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Saw the grooves.

While working with

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 25

Insert the candles. Place

oap finish, a shop-made polish with

S a long history of use in Europe,

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 27

Black Walnut Red Oak Ash

3 5 can experiment with different

Grate the soap. Use a kitchen grater to

Whip it up. Stir the soap ﬂakes and hot

4 mixture into a frothy foam. This method

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 29

Learn more at TRITONTOOLS.COM

F fireplace has been an old leather steamer trunk. A hold-

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31

30° FRAME SPLINE

Order of Work LOWER LEG

SHORT FRAME 62°

SCALE: 1 square = 1"

Glue up the legs. Glue the offcuts from mitering to

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 35

Corner clamp Shop-made

Shelf rabbet Auxiliary fence

30° Glue up. Cut two 83⁄4"-wide pieces of plywood to hold

Oct/Nov 2022 | woodcraftmagazine.com 37

A frames or shell out big bucks at the custom-framing

Glazing push points

You can make picture frames from any wood. To

About the Author