Popular Woodworking

CHEAT AT DOVETAILS: USE A TRIM ROUTER FOR THE DIRTY WORK
THE #1 HAND PLANE SECRET: A CURVED CUTTING EDGE WORKS WONDERS
AUGUST 2005
ISSUE #149
In the Shop with

Norm Abram
We Debunk 7 Myths
About TV’s Frugal Yankee
A MIGHTIER
MITER SAW
6 Quick & Easy Tweaks
To Guarantee Accuracy
PLUS
• A Better Technique
For Cope & Stick Joints
• Leaning Bookshelves
• The $5 Router Plane
PLUS: Plans
for Norm Abram’s
DISPLAY UNTIL 8-8-2005
Adirondack Chair
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START WITH
THE PERFECT New motors provide more
power to smooth out the
hardest materials.
FINISH.
Ergonomically enhanced rubber
grips on the top and body dampen
vibration and increase comfort.
Controlled Finishing System –

CFS™ – eliminates gouging and
swirls by minimizing changes in
pad speed under load.
High capacity dust bag with

multiple built-in vacuum
adapters.
INTRODUCING THREE NEW PALM SANDERS FROM DEWALT.®

Step up to the ultimate in new palm grip sanders from DEWALT — the D26451 and D26453
random orbit sanders and the D26441 1/4 sheet finish sander. They feature DEWALT-built
motors and dust-sealed switches designed for durability required in a professional shop. The
3 amp random orbit sanders offer 12,000 opm, or in the variable speed unit 7,000 – 12,000
opm, and both feature the Controlled Finishing System™ to ensure smooth, swirl-free results.
The 2.4 amp, 14,000 opm 1/4 sheet sander allows you to sand into corners and provides the
optimal surface finish before applying coatings. Each of these new sanders delivers the
power and control you need to achieve the perfect finish.
©2005 DEWALT. The following are trademarks for one or more DEWALT Power Tools and Accessories: The yellow and black color scheme; the “D”-shaped air intake grill; the array of pyramids on the handgrip;
the kit box configuration; and the array of lozenge-shaped humps on the surface of the tool.

contents IN EVERY ISSUE
14 How Do I Flatten
My Jack Plane’s Sole?
Q&A
Learn when – and when not – to flatten the soles of your
hand planes. Plus, two tips for getting rid of light rust on
your tools. And yes, making a raised-panel door with a
veneered panel is possible – we tell you how.
18 Mortising Spacer
Reduces Measuring
22 TRICKS OF THE TRADE 24
Two small scraps make precise spacing when mortising
a snap. Plus, build your own overarm blade guard and a
knockdown benchtop, quickly find centers without buying
an extra tool and fight woodshop dust with a box fan.
24 DeWalt’s Flush-cutting Jigsaw

TOOL TEST
DeWalt’s jigsaw extension blade is quite clever. Plus, a new
hand plane for smoothing curves, a Oneway lathe with
increased capacity, a better hide glue and more.
29
29 Lie-Nielsen No. 41 ⁄2
Smoothing Plane
ENDURANCE TEST
In a world filled with smoothers, this heavy yet easy-to-
wield plane proves best for larger smoothing tasks.
30 Cope-and-stick Joints
POWER-TOOL JOINERY 34
The cope and stick is an incredibly efficient way to build
30 doors. Learn the best way to cut this time-saving joint.
by Bill Hylton
Popular Woodworking (ISSN 0884-8823,USPS 752-250) is

34 Yankee’s Shop True to Name
published 7 times a year in February, April, June, August, GREAT WOODSHOPS
October, November and December by F+W Publications
Inc. Editorial and advertising offices are located at 4700 E.
We spend two days with Norm Abram on the set of “The
Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio 45236; tel.: 513-531-2222. New Yankee Workshop” and bust several common myths.
Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork should
include ample postage on a self-addressed, stamped
envelope (SASE); otherwise they will not be returned.
Subscription rates: A year’s subscription (7 issues) is $28; 82 Rumplestiltskin is My Name
outside of U.S. add $7/year Canada Publications Mail
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ARTS & MYSTERIES
Agreement No. 40025316. Canadian return address: 2744
Edna St., Windsor, ON N8Y 1V2 Copyright 2005 by Popular
■
The first step to understanding the confusing world of hand
Woodworking. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, planes is learning the tools’ real names.
Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send
all address changes to Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box
by Adam Cherubini
420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 Canada GST Reg. # 82
R122594716 Produced and printed in the U.S.A.
■
popwood.com 3
PROJECTS, TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
38 Norm Abram’s
Adirondack Chair
During a two-day visit with Norm Abram, we spent a day
building (an improved!) Adirondack chair in The New
Yankee Workshop. Here are plans to build your own.
by Steve Shanesy with Norm Abram 38
ON THE COVER
Norm Abram, host of

“The New Yankee Work-
shop,” is a woodworking
icon. After spending two
45 Advanced Table Saw
days on the set of the
Techniques
WOODWORKING ESSENTIALS
show we offer plans for
Here’s how to get the most from your table
his improved Adirondack saw. This chapter covers everything from cut-
Chair and share some ting coves and odd-shaped boards to pattern
surprising truths about sawing and kerf bending. Plus, learn how to
how he works. build a coving fence.
by Nick Engler
Cover photo by Al Parrish
53 Learning Curves
Create a cambered cutting edge on your hand
DEPARTMENTS planes to improve your edge joints and to
60 plane boards without leaving plane tracks.
by David Charlesworth
8 Out on a Limb
What is the Value
of Woodworking?
60 Leaning Shelves
After numerous experiments and revisions using
10 Letters
CAD software, we came up with a desk and shelves
Mail from readers
that are sturdy, curvy and easy to build.
86 Flexner on
Finishing 66 A Woodworking Miter Saw
Fixing Finished A miter saw needs some tweaking before it can be
Surfaces
by Bob Flexner used for precision woodworking. We show you how
to do this quickly with only a little material and a
few pieces of hardware.
90 At the Lathe
Solid Roots
for Good Design
by Judy Ditmer 72 $5 Router Plane
A block of wood, an Allen wrench and a thumb-
screw is all you need to build a traditional hand
96 Out of the
tool that excels at cutting dados and cleaning up
Woodwork
Woodshop Pest hinge mortises.
Control by John Wilson 66
by Peter Sieling
76 Power-assisted
Dovetails for Drawers
A hand-held router is the perfect helper when
cutting a dresser’s worth of half-blind dovetails.
by Scott Gibson
72
4 POPULAR WOODWORKING August 2005

®
August 2005, Vol. 25, No. 4

popwood.com
Editorial Offices 513-531-2690
Editor & Publisher Steve Shanesy
ext. 1238 • [email protected]
Art Director Linda Watts
Executive Editor Christopher Schwarz
Senior Editor David Thiel
Senior Editor Robert W. Lang
Managing Editor Kara Gebhart Uhl
Assistant Designer Susan L. Smith
Project Illustrator John Hutchinson
Photographer Al Parrish
Contributing Editors
Nick Engler, Bob Flexner, Glen Huey,
Don McConnell, Troy Sexton
F+W PUBLICATIONS INC.
William F. Reilly, Chairman
Stephen J. Kent, President
Mark F. Arnett, Executive Vice President & CFO
F+W PUBLICATIONS INC.
MAGAZINE DIVISION
William R. Reed, President
Colleen Cannon, Senior Vice President
CIRCULATION
Lynn Kruetzkamp, Group Circulation Manager
Mark Fleetwood, Group Newsstand Manager
CIRCLE NO. 103 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. PRODUCTION
Barbara Schmitz, Vice President
Vicki Whitford, Production Supervisor
Debbie Thomas, Production Coordinator
YOU’RE PROBABLY JUST AS AMBITIOUS. Katie Seal, Production Assistant
ADVERTISING
Whether you are a do-it- Don Schroder, Advertising Director
331 N. Arch St., Allentown, PA 18104
yourselfer, a professional Tel. 610-821-4425; Fax 610-821-7884
woodworker or somewhere [email protected]
in between, you have a world Advertising Production Coordinator
Krista Morel, Tel. 513-531-2690 ext. 1311
full of projects in the home
[email protected]
or in the shop that will be
SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: Subscription inquiries,
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Or by mail: Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box 420235,
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Allow 6 to 8 weeks for delivery.
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SAFETY NOTE
Safety is your responsibility. Manufacturers place
safety devices on their equipment for a reason. In many
Made in the USA by the Adjustable Clamp Co., photos you see in Popular Woodworking, these have
425 North Ashland Ave., Chicago, IL 60622, been removed to provide clarity. In some cases we’ll
use an awkward body position so you can better see
www.adjustableclamp.com ® what’s being demonstrated. Don’t copy us. Think about
each procedure you’re going to perform beforehand.
Safety First!
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OUT ON A LIMB
What is the Value CONTRIBUTORS

NORM ABRAM
Norm Abram, host of “The New Yankee
of Woodworking? Workshop,” is more than a woodworker

with an affinity for power tools. He’s an
avid ocean boater, too. While Abram says
his best days of work are
those that are spent in
his shop, he’s quick to
T here is a book published by our company

called “How to Make $40,000 a Year with
Your Woodworking.” Years ago I dubbed it our
Roadshow” to learn about the value of objects
that have endured.
Good antique furniture, now worth a
note that when he’s not
working, he’s happiest
on the water. Abram
only offering in the fiction category. Sure, small fortune, was built by individual joiners recently purchased a
there are enterprising woodworkers who before the start of the Industrial Revolution. Sabreline 42 motor
pocket this and more, but there are count- Today, most furniture is fabricated in a factory. yacht. “It’s my therapy,” Abram says. “And
less others who don’t even get close. We’ve had a century and a half to lose sight it’s where you get to throw a lot of money
For years now I’ve returned to the same of the value of custom-built woodwork. Most away, too,” he adds, laughing. Abram says
questions about the lack of prospects even commercial shops busy themselves doing the he hopes to someday study old coastal navi-
talented woodworkers have. Why can’t a occasional custom kitchen, bath vanity or gation methods and use them while boat-
wood craftsman earn what fast food restaurant interior. ing. For more details about Abram and his
an independent electrician, Better shops working the workshop, turn to page 34. To build his
plumber or garage mechanic “carriage” trade find more Adirondack chair, turn to page 38.
earns? Even the guy who ran upscale projects. But even
a small crew that washed the among these, the bidding
windows at my house told me wars to win contracts hold BOB FLEXNER
he earned close to six figures, back wages and benefits Bob Flexner’s landmark book, “Under-
and in Cincinnati, that’s sea- while signaling to buyers a standing Wood Finishing” (Reader’s Digest
sonal work. willingness to value their Association), has made sense of the com-
As a society we don’t work less and less. plex art of finishing for countless wood-
value well-made furniture Perhaps all woodwork- workers. Since it first
and cabinets. Is that because ers, hobbyists included, hit the bookstores in
we don’t recognize good from need to think more about 1994, Flexner has con-
bad? Why is there no status the value of the work they tinued his finishing
attached to a one-of-a-kind produce and promote nicely research and experi-
dining table, unlike those crafted work as having value ments (he owns almost
$50,000 luxury cars we see far beyond the purchase every finishing product
everywhere? Why do we find price. Perhaps we need to on the market today).
“run-of-the-mill” furniture in all those half- find ways to produce better work at less cost, Recently, the second, fully revised edition
million-dollar McMansions? Are the manu- making it affordable to those who aren’t the of this book was released. Also check out
facturers of inexpensive furniture that good at wealthiest among us. Hobby woodworkers Popular Woodworking’s Finishing & Refinish-
making poorly crafted work look good? who “don’t need the money” shouldn’t sell ing special issue on newsstands now. In it
Do we not value objects of lasting value? their work below market value because it we’ve included Flexner’s 28 best “Flexner
In our disposable world, we’ll take a big loss undermines commercial craftsmen who are on Finishing” columns. This issue Flexner
on one of those expensive cars after just a trying to run a business, feed a family, and continues to share his expertise with “Fix-
few years. We’ll spend a thousand dollars on pay living wages and offer decent benefits to ing Finished Surfaces” (page 86).
some electronic device and replace it every their employees.
two years, leaving the old one at the curb once Many more questions remain than there Our Privacy Promise to You
new technology makes it worthless. are answers. PW We make portions of our customer list available to
By all measures, woodworking as a hobby carefully screened companies that offer products
and services we believe you may enjoy. If you do not
enjoys great popularity, on par with golf.
want to receive offers and/or information, please let
Millions of people are captivated by the us know by contacting us at:
sight of Norm Abram building a project Steve Shanesy List Manager, F+W Publications
on television and they tune to “Antiques Editor & Publisher 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH 45236

Tool-Free Adjustable
Exhaust with Muffler
Belt/Rafter Hooks Rubber Overmold

Grip and Trigger
Swivel Quick Connect Lightweight

for Less Tangling Magnesium Housing
Internal Piston Catch for

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© 2005, RIDGID, INC. All Rights Reserved.

LETTERS
QOZZ Looking for More

Details on Finishing
Authentic Greene & Greene Finish is and plane them to 7 ⁄ 8" without leaving saw
Nice, But More Information is Needed marks. I like the beefier look for traditional
3 fQSZZS\QSWaW\bVSRSbOWZa
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I recently read the “Greene & Greene Side-
board” article in the April 2005 issue; it was
a nice piece and truly enjoyable.
Arts & Crafts furniture.
Most of what I cut is quartersawn white
oak, which reduces the chance of cupping or
I was interested in the finish you described twisting – although you will get some bow-
W\bVSE]]RQÒTbQObOZ]U and wondered if I might entice you to supply ing. Still, even flat-sawn 4/4 boards should
me with another bit of information concern- be plenty thick to plane to 3 ⁄4", as long as the
ing the color mixture. The article was clear portable band saw mill is cutting accurately.
regarding the amount of Danish oil, as well Obviously this leaves you with an 1 ⁄8" on each
as the percentage of the colors to achieve the side of the board to plane. This can be quickly
color balance. But it did not mention the total and efficiently planed, whereas planing 5/4 to
amount of color compared to oil that’s neces- 3 ⁄ 4" is a lot of woodchucking for my taste.
Ê /iÊ7`VÀ>vÌÊV>Ì>}Ê>ÃÊÌiÊ sary. If you could give me the total weight or More importantly for Ken is the stack-
ìÌ>Ã°Ê iÜÊ«À`ÕVÌÃÊiÛiÀÞÊÌ]Ê volume of the color to use with a pint of oil, I ing and stickering (flat, level and supported)
>iÊLÀ>`Ã]ÊiÝVÕÃÛiÊLÀ>`ÃÊÊ would greatly appreciate it. of his lumber during air- and kiln-drying to
>ÊÌiÊLiÃÌÊÊÜ`ÜÀ}ÊÌÃ]Ê Jay Goddard ensure good quality lumber before he starts
>VViÃÃÀiÃ]Ê>À`Ü>ÀiÊ>`ÊwÊÃ}° Jefferson City, Tennessee the planing process.
Each tree is a treasure that provides us with
Ê
«iÌiÊÞÕÀÊiÝÌÊ«ÀiVÌ]ÊÀÊ Sorry for not being more specific about the the materials to fulfill our passion. Let’s get
ÕÌwÊÌÊ>ÊV«iÌiÊÃ«ÊÜÌÊ>`Ê color mixing; we were very tight on space for the most out of each one of them.
ÌÃ]Ê«ÜiÀÊÌÃ]Ê>VViÃÃÀiÃÊ>`Ê that article. Here’s the procedure I followed: I Ben Moll
ÃÕ««iÃÊvÀÊÌiÊ7`VÀ>vÌÊV>Ì>}°Ê squeezed out a line of the artist’s oil color on Oakwood Hills, Illinois
ÌÊ>ÊViÃÊÜÌÊÕÀÊ£ÊÞi>ÀÊÕV` a piece of scrap wood, using 1" as one part. I
Ì>ÊÃ>ÌÃv>VÌÊ}Õ>À>Ìii°ÊÊ had a line of Chrome Yellow 31 ⁄2" long, the line Sawing 5/4 Adds to Drying Difficulties
Ê -iiÊÌiÊ7`VÀ>vÌÊV>Ì>}ÊvÀÊ>Ê of Raw Umber was 3" long, etc. That’s how I I disagree with the response David Thiel gave
ÌiÊìÌ>Ã°Ê kept the proportions straight. to Ken Kindle regarding the thickness to mill
Ê ^Ê7`VÀ>vÌÊ-Õ««ÞÊ
À«°ÊÓääx
To get the color strong enough, I had to dou- his lumber. Mr. Kindle stated that he wanted
ble the amounts above. If I were doing it over, to wind up with a finished thickness of 3 ⁄4". In
I would mark out the proportions on the scrap, all but the rarest cases, 4/4 lumber will finish
and then squeeze out two lines for each color. plane at 13 ⁄16", and it’s not uncommon to be
Also note that the green color I added was just able to clean it up at 7 ⁄8". At a mill, 4/4 lumber
a dab. I don’t think you need to be incredibly is sawn green at 11 ⁄8" and it will be about 11 ⁄16"
precise with it, but this should get you close. after drying. Sawing the rough lumber 5/4 to
— Robert W. Lang, senior editor get 3 ⁄4" finished thickness would be wasteful.
Furthermore, the thicker the lumber, the more
Sawmill Owner Responds to Letter likely Mr. Kindle will have problems drying
About Cutting Green Wood it, especially if it is something difficult to dry,
I have a few comments on Ken Kindle’s ques- such as oak.
tion of how thick to saw green lumber (“Let- Mr. Kindle asked about mixing species
ters” April 2005). I am an owner of a LT40 when air-drying but he did not ask the more
'PSZPVSMPDBM8PPEDSBGUTUPSF Woodmizer and a 20" planer. I have found important question of mixing during kiln
WJTJUXXXXPPEDSBGUDPN with this setup I can cut hardwoods to 4/4, drying. The answer is yes, he can kiln-dry
PSGPSBGSFFDBUBMPH DBMM air dry them to 10 percent moisture content, mixed species, but the drying rate must be set
continued on page 12
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CIRCLE NO. 151 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. 10 POPULAR WOODWORKING August 2005
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Have you discovered the TORMEK way of sharpening?
LETTERS
Now with Micro Adjust for precision edge angle setting.
continued from page 10
Log on to the Tormek website www.tormek.us
for full details of the TORMEK System. to accommodate the slowest drying species.
You will also find the entire TORMEK hand- I have pushed tens of thousands of feet
book, which contains the basics of edge tool of 4/4 hardwood lumber through a planer at
sharpening and detailed instructions how to our business, so my advice is based on experi-
sharpen all your woodworking tools as well as ence. When planing to 13 ⁄ 16", 99 percent of
knives and scissors. the surface of 4/4 lumber will clean up. We
rarely plane to 3 ⁄4", but my guess the figure at
U.S.A. 1-800-5-Tormek 3 ⁄ 4" would be 99.9 percent. Turning another
Canada 1-877-2-Tormek 1 ⁄ 4" of your lumber into shavings by starting
at 5/4 seems a high price to pay to squeeze out

a little more yield of planed surface.
Bill Tindall
Church Hill, Tennessee
What About the English Rounder

Planes for Chairmaking?
I have a couple of questions regarding the
article on chair building (“Cheating at
Chairmaking” April 2005). You highly rec-
ommend the rounder planes made by Ray
Iles. I was wondering if you had tried similar
planes made by Fred Lambert (ashemcrafts.
com) from England. It seems every British
book on chairmaking uses them.
Secondly, do you recommend the Veritas
CIRCLE NO. 149 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. CIRCLE NO. 107 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. concave spokeshave for spindle shaping? In
the article I see you’re using one, but you make
no mention of it. Is it worth $75?
Terry Kelly
Presque Isle, Maine
I used the Ashem Crafts rotary and trapping

planes during a class taught by Don Weber.
Weber is quite fond of them, but I wasn’t as
enchanted with them as I was with the Ray Iles
tools. To each his own, I suppose. As to the Ver-
itas concave spokeshave, I highly recommend it
– not mentioning it by name was an oversight.
It’s an indispensable part of my toolkit. PW
— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor
WRITE TO US
Popular Woodworking welcomes letters from
readers with comments about the maga-
zine or woodworking in general. We try to
respond to all correspondence. Published
letters may be edited for length or style.
All letters become the property of Popular
Woodworking. How to send your letter:
• E-mail: [email protected]
• Fax: 513-891-7196
• Mail carrier:
Letters • Popular Woodworking
4700 E. Galbraith Road
Cincinnati, OH 45236
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CIRCLE NO. 152 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. CIRCLE NO. 137 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.
“...dovetail one, or “...I know of no better

a hundred drawers – or faster way to cut
perfect every time.” mortise and tenons...”
– Norm Abram, – Christopher Schwarz,
New Yankee Workshop Popular Woodworking Magazine
No other jigs offer such versatility, precision and superb value for both the hobbyist or professional.
The D4 Dovetail Jig routs through and half-blind dovetails up to 24" wide in boards up to 11/2" thick,
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Call For Your FREE Leigh Catalog and today!

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Q&A
How Do I Flatten
My Jack Plane’s Sole?
When flattening the sole, Shaded areas indicate the
skew the tool left critical points of contact
and right to between your wood and
AIR FILTRATION SYSTEM improve your the sole. Unshaded areas
WITH REMOTE CONTROL chance of can be concave and won’t
success. affect its performance.
Illustrations by Hayes Shanesy

Will a Diamond Stone Do the Job? need a fl attening surface that’s larger than the
What is a good way to flatten the sole of a sole itself – so a single diamond stone won’t do
Bailey jack plane? A diamond stone has been for large planes. You’ll end up making the sole
suggested to me. Although they cut fast, they banana-shaped. When I resort to fl attening a
are also very expensive. Any suggestions? plane’s sole, I normally go one of two routes: A
Ed Williams long strip of belt sander sandpaper (#80 or #100
Delavan, Wisconsin grit) adhered to an old (yet flat) spare table saw
wing. Or I use kerosene and silicon carbide lap-
Generally, jack planes are for rough work: tak- ping grit (#90 grit, available from Lee Valley
ing down high spots off boards and hogging off Tools, 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com) directly
material on edges. So sole flatness is not critical on the wing, building up an abrasive slurry. Both
1-1/2 HP DUST COLLECTOR with a jack, unlike with precision planes, such as methods are messy and time-consuming.
WITH REMOTE CONTROL
the smoothing plane and jointer plane. Before you begin, color the sole of the tool with
And flattening the soles of longer metal a permanent marker to gauge your progress. As
The power to breathe clean in a healthy planes, such as the jack, is a challenge for people you work, be sure to skew the tool left and right
shop environment is now at your
fingertips with the NEW line of who have never done it before. More times than during your passes to keep from removing too
JET® REMOTE CONTROL air filtration not they end up making the tool worse. much material at the toe and heel. Check your
and dust collection units. Finally, many assume they need to flatten the work as you proceed with a straightedge.
See the number one brand for dust soles of their planes without ever checking them — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor
collection and air filtration in action first. Get out a straightedge and check the sole
at a JET dealer near you or at with feeler gauges before you do anything. There’s How Do You Remove
jettools.com/breatheclean
a fair chance the sole is fine as-is. If the sole is flat Light Rust From Hand Tools?
in front of the mouth and along the long edges I recently opened my chisels and they had rust
of the sole, then you’re golden. Don’t do a thing. on them. There also was a little spot of rust
If these areas differ by .006" or more, then you on the side of my block plane. I have some
should think about correcting the sole. Boeshield “Rust Free” rust remover, but when
If you do want to flatten the plane’s sole, you I used that before, the acid left a discoloration.
jettools.com
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Q&A
I have some rust preventer (Boeshield and To do it, you must be precise in sizing the
also CorrosionX), but that won’t help until I panels and in cutting the edge profile. It works
get the rust off. Should I use sandpaper to get best with a profile that won’t leave a quirk at the
rid of the rust? What solution do you recom- intersection of the panel and the hardwood. If
mend for this task? possible, size the parts so you have 1 ⁄ 16" or so
Greg Koukl of solid wood left against the veneer after the
Los Angeles, California panel is raised.
— Robert W. Lang, senior editor
There are many ways to skin this cat. Here are
two ways that work for me: I generally use #0000 How Far Apart Should Dog Holes Be?
steel wool and mineral spirits to remove rust. I’ve I just installed a metal vise on the front of the
also become fond of the handblock from Sand- left-hand side of my workbench. The vise itself
Flex. There are three grits (coarse, medium and has a metal vise dog, and in the wooden jaws I
fine). I use the medium and the fine. They’re built for the vise I put in two holes for Veritas
available from several sources, including Lie- Bench Pups. I thought it would be helpful
Nielsen Toolworks (800-327-2520 or lie-nielsen. if I put a couple lines of bench dog holes in
com). Each handblock will last for years. the bench to work with the vise, and I was
After removing the rust, I protect the tool wondering if there is a suggested spacing or
with Camellia oil. I keep a rag soaked with the interval you would suggest for the most effec-
stuff expressly for this purpose. Our tests of rust tive placement of the holes.
preventatives didn’t put Camellia oil at the top Todd Marshall
(that would be Fluid Film and WD-40), but I’ve via the Internet
found the Camellia oil to be well-suited for hand
tools. It never stains the wood. It’s also available In general, you should space your holes a shade
from a variety of sources. less than the maximum opening of your vise. If
— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor your vise opens 10", I’d space the holes every 9".
That way you’ll be able to grasp almost anything.
Can I Make a Raised-panel Door With a The other consideration on spacing is if you’re
Veneered Panel in the Middle? going to ever use the Veritas Wonder Dogs in con-
I’ve seen magazine advertisements, such as junction with your bench dogs, which work like a
one from Freud, where a raised-panel door is tail vise. If so, you’ll want to reduce the spacing
made using a veneered board for the center to 4" to accommodate these devices.
(or field) of the raised panel. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor
Such a panel would have the edges of the
veneer exposed when the profile is made using Caring for Danish Oil
a raised-panel router bit. One would think that What is the best way to maintain and clean a
this exposed veneer edge would be susceptible piece of furniture finished with Danish oil?
to chipping, and the substrate would be visible. Jeremy Graham
Is there a type of veneer/glue combination Bend, Oregon
that makes this type of panel possible? Or is
there a technique by which the veneer edge You care for a Danish oil finish the same way you
isn’t exposed? I would love to have my cake care for any finish. You can clean water-soluble
Gorilla Glue is the versatile,
interior/exterior adhesive and eat it, too! That is, to be able to have both dirt (dried soda spills, children’s fingerprints) by
ideal for most household the beauty of a raised-panel door and also get wiping with a water-dampened cloth. You can
fixes and building projects: the premiere figure found in veneer. clean solvent-soluble dirt (grease or wax) by wip-
furniture repair, crafts,
woodworking, and general
John Pettus ing with mineral spirits or a furniture polish.
repairs around the house. Westminster, California You can maintain the finish by applying paste
Bonds wood, stone, wax, which will provide long-term shine and
metal, ceramic & more! Using a veneered panel in a door is indeed pos- scratch resistance, or by applying a furniture
Incredibly strong and
100% waterproof.
sible. The most common way to accomplish this polish, which will provide short-term shine and
is to surround the veneered panel with a mitered scratch resistance. You can also apply additional
REQUEST YOUR FREE frame of solid wood – and then cut the raised- coats of Danish oil, or you can apply any other
INFORMATION KIT! panel profile into this frame of solid wood. This finish you would like as long as the Danish oil on
www.gorillaglue.com is common in the furniture industry. the wood is cured – at least a week.
1-800-966-3458
STEVE WALL LUMBER CO. *NOW AVAILABLE*
Quality Hardwoods and Woodworking machinery For The Craftsman
and Educational Institution s
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Ash .............................. 4/4 Select 2.40 ........................................... $ 85.00 Panel Cabinet Doors
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Also Available
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OU
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Why is My Glue Line lumber sold by the Bd. Ft. FOB Mayodan, NC. Call for
quantity discounts. Other sizes and grades available.
lumber 3"-10" wide 3 -7 long (Random widths &
lengths) Surfaced 2 sides or rough. Delivered UPS
Send $1.00 For Lumber Catalog
Prices Subject to Change Without Notice
prepaid in the Continental U.S.
Becoming More Visible Over Time?
In the last couple of years I’ve noticed – espe- CIRCLE NO. 148 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.
cially on my glued-up tabletops – that a year or

so after the project is in use I am finding a very
fine line of glue at the joints. It almost looks
like the wood is shrinking and the glue isn’t.
None of the joints has ever opened up, but you
can feel them and can pick at them with your
fingernail. Can you tell me what I am doing
wrong and how to avoid this problem?
R.G. Black
Red Lake, Ontario
What you’re experiencing is common with ali-

phatic resin (yellow or white) glues. When the
glue dries, it doesn’t form a hard surface, but a
flexible plastic film. As the wood expands and
contracts, the glue moves with it. This is actually
one of the good points of modern glues; if it didn’t
move, it could eventually fracture, resulting in
failure of the joint. There isn’t really anything
you can do, other than keeping the temperature
and relative humidity at a constant level so that
seasonal wood movement is kept to a minimum.
Other glues, such as hide glue, reactive polyure-
thane or epoxy aren’t as flexible, and will likely
hold up in a tabletop. You might try one of these
in your next project. PW
— Robert W. Lang, senior editor
WRITE TO US
Every day we get questions from readers on
all subjects about their woodworking. Some
are letters; many are e-mail messages. We
are more than happy to share our wood-
working experience with you by answering
your questions or adding some clarity to
whatever aspect of the craft you are unsure
about. In addition to the hundreds we
answer privately every month, we want to
share the best questions here with readers.
Send your questions via e-mail to
[email protected], or by mail to:
Q&A • Popular Woodworking
4700 E. Galbraith Road
Cincinnati, OH 45236

popwood.com 17
TRICKS OF THE TRADE Compiled by Paul Anthony
4HANKS
Illustrations by Matt Bantly
.ORM Mortising Spacer

FORSEVENTEENYEARS
4HE.EW9ANKEE
Reduces Measuring
7ORKSHOPHASINSPIRED
PEOPLEACROSS!MERICA THE WINNER: Mortiser chisel
ANDAROUNDTHEWORLDTO
I recently made a Morris chair that
EXPERIENCETHEJOYOF had 17 spindles on each side. With a Insert
tenon on each end of every spindle, L-shaped
WOODWORKING9OURHOME spacer into
I had a grand total of 68 mortises to
GROWNWARMTH YOUR X" mortise
make using my mortiser. The job
FRIENDLYPRESENCEAND required accurate alignment and X"
YOURUNIQUESKILLHAVE consistent spacing of the 1 ⁄ 2" x 1 ⁄ 2"
mortises on the upper and lower rails
HELPEDNOVICESGAIN
of the chair.
CONFIDENCEANDCRAFTSMEN It was easy enough to align the
GETBETTER&ROMALLOFUS row of mortises across the thickness
of the rails by setting the fence on
WHOMAKEANDUSE
my mortiser, but I really didn’t want
WOODWORKINGTOOLS to have to lay out the spacing of each
THANKS mortise along the length of each rail.
To make the job easy, accurate and efficient, After cutting the first mortise in a rail, I
I first made a 1 ⁄ 2" x 1 ⁄ 2" hardwood plug that inserted the spacer, then slid the rail over so
slipped snugly into a mortise. I then made a the spacer contacted the mortising chisel,
small block with a width that equaled the then made the next mortise. All subsequent
intended distance between the right sides mortises on the rail were quickly and accu-
of two adjacent mortises. I glued the block rately made in the same manner.
to the top of the hardwood plug to create an Mike Suddes
L-shaped spacer. Plainville, Massachusetts
"ESSEY4OOLS.ORTH!MERICA
PHONE CASH AND PRIZES FOR YOUR TRICKS AND TIPS!
WWWBESSEYTOOLSCOM
Each issue we publish useful woodworking
tips from our readers. Next issue’s winner
receives this terrific set of three specialty
planes from Veritas, including a large and
medium shoulder plane, and a bullnose
plane. These planes are perfect for fine-tuning
a variety of woodworking joints including
rabbets and tenons. This set of quality joinery
planes is valued at more than $400.
Runners-up each receive a check for
$75. When submitting a trick (either by
mail or e-mail) you must include your complete mailing address and a daytime phone
number. If your trick is selected for publication, an editor will need to contact you. All
entries become the property of Popular Woodworking. You can send your trick by e-mail to
[email protected], or mail it to Tricks of the Trade, Popular Woodworking,
4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH 45236.

Once in a while a product comes
along that truly changes the way
you do things.
The FEIN MultiMaster.
What’s the difference? It oscillates.

Most power tools rotate or reciprocate.The MultiMaster moves
back and forth in a 3.2 degree arc to do things other power tools
can’t. Sand into corners and along edges. Undercut a door jamb.
Plunge into baseboard...right through the nails. Remove grout.
Scrape paint. For more information, a free brochure and a dealer
near you call 1-800-441-9878 or visit us on the web at
www.feinus.com.
The New XL Kit. A $400 value for just $299.
Kit contains a MultiMaster 636-2 variable speed tool plus:
• Sanding pad • Profile Sanding kit
• Carbide Rasp • 133 E-Cut blade
• Mini E-Cut set • Scraper blade
• Carbide Grout blade • 15-pack assorted sandpaper
• Screws and washers • Metal carrying case
Finishing is just the beginning.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Cheap Dust Collection UL-approved Lamp Cord Knot To lamp socket
Have you been thinking about getting a dust If you make lamps, it’s important to know how to make
collector? You may already have one sitting the lamp cord knot that is approved by Underwriters
around the house. An old box window fan Laboratory (UL). This particular knot is easy to tie and
pulls a tremendous amount of air. Strap a can’t be accidentally pulled back through the lamp
cheap furnace filter to the intake side of the rod, making it a safe way to wire a lamp. Simply feed
fan using bungee cords, and set the fan next the lamp cord through the rod and through the lamp
to your bench when sanding. You might be socket cap, then split the cord down the center into
surprised to see how quickly the filter turns the two separate wires. After tying off the two wires,
brown from sanding dust. Alternatively, you pull the knot against the bottom of the socket cap by
can set your sanding bench next to a window pulling on the opposite end of the wire. Cut the leads Socket cap
and just suck the dust directly outside (pro- inside the socket to an appropriate length, strip their
vided your neighbor’s shiny black Mercedes ends, and screw each section of bare wire to the socket
isn’t parked nearby, of course). before replacing the socket sleeve.
John Henry Ed Westin Lamp cord
Philipsburg, Pennsylvania Cleveland, Ohio
Combination Square Center Finder How to Buy (and Tweak) a Tape Measure
Although I’m not much of a wood turner, I occasionally need to If you’re serious about accuracy in your work, you need accurate mea-
find center on the end of round dowels and other round workpieces. suring tools, and that includes your tape rule. Unfortunately, the slid-
I’m definitely too cheap to spend money on a commercial centering tang on a tape rule – which allows for taking inside and outside
finder tool for those few occasions when I need one. Instead, I just measurements – is often the tool’s Achilles’ heel. Inexpensive tape
clamp a small square scrap of 1 ⁄4"-thick plywood or hardboard to rules are particularly prone to inaccurate measurements taken from
the blade of my combination square, and against its 45° fence face. the end of the tape.
I align the corner of the scrap with the intersection of the square’s When buying a new tape rule, there are a couple things you can
blade and its body, or stock. check to maximize accuracy. First of all, look for a tape that has incre-
To find center, I lay the blade against the end of the round ments marked in fine lines. The lines on some tapes are 1 ⁄64" or more
workpiece, with the perimeter of the workpiece touching the thick, which compromises your accuracy from the start. Secondly,
square’s stock and the edge of the scrap. I first strike one line make sure that inside and outside measurements made using the tang
across the end of the workpiece, then another approximately on the end of the tape are accurate. To be sure of this, I head to the
perpendicular to the first. The center of the workpiece lies at the store with an accurate gauge block that I have made for the purpose.
intersection of the lines. When gauging the tape, make sure to roll it over slightly so the edge
Allen Madsen of the tape actually lays on the workpiece. This helps to avoid paral-
San Diego, California lax error when reading the tape.
After finding an accurate tape at the store, keep the block. You
Square
can use it to re-check the accuracy of your tape rule after dropping it
on the floor and possibly bending its tang. A bent tang can easily be
corrected with a pair of pliers.
Paul Anthony
Riegelsville, Pennsylvania
Align corner
of scrap with Press tang firmly
intersection against side of 1"-
of blade and wide groove to
square head check accuracy
of 1" increment
Pull firmly
while rolling
edge of tape
down against
block
1"
1"

Overarm Blade Guard Upper bar is
1 ⁄ 8" x 1" x 26"
Like many woodworkers, I was dissatisfied with the stock blade guard Aluminum bar clamp
on my table saw. I wanted an overarm guard that could easily be moved
out of the way when necessary. However, I don’t have shop space for a
standard aftermarket overarm guard with its long horizontal mount-
ing bars. And I needed a unit that allowed me to relocate my table
saw when necessary for ripping long stock. Make counterweight from
I decided to make my own guard that I could suspend from 2 x Thumbscrews eye bolt and fender washers
4 shorts strategically nailed between my basement ceiling joists. I in front
designed it to incorporate the standard counterbalanced parallelo- Cap screws in back
Wooden
gram mechanism common to commercial overarm blade guards. For inverted “T” 5" Lower bar is
the parts, I used an aluminum bar clamp, some 1 ⁄8" x 1" aluminum flat 1 ⁄ 8" x 1" x 13"
bar from my local home-supply store, and a few bolts and washers. For
the guard itself, I purchased a commercial replacement part from one
of the companies that makes aftermarket guards, making sure to get
one with a dust-collection port.
Construction was simple. After screwing a wooden inverted “T”
to the guard, I drilled a pair of holes in the vertical section of the “T,”
spacing them 5" apart on center, and an identically spaced pair at the wing nuts for tool-less tightening when temporarily locking the guard
appropriate location in the bar-clamp body. Next, I drilled the pivot up and out of the way. The last step was to create the counterweight
holes in the aluminum flat bar, as well as a hole in the far end of each by hanging an eye bolt at the far end of the bar, and attaching as many
upper flat bar for a cap screw from which to hang an eye bolt. I attached fender washers as necessary to “float” the guard.
the bars to the clamp with cap screws and washers, making sure all Steven Sampson
parts pivoted freely. For the front pivot holes, I used thumbscrews and Wilbraham, Massachusetts
Veritas® Mk.II Honing Guide

Properly sharpened tools are a delight to use. Our new Mk.II honing guide lets you
quickly achieve expert sharpening results. Easy to set up, the guide and jig ensure
accurate and repeatable bevel angles through a wide range, from 15° to 54 °.
The guide offers three different, color-coded, gross bevel-angle range
settings – high angle, standard angle, and back bevel. The
color-coded registration jig simultaneously squares
and centers the blade while setting the
correct projection. The clamping
mechanism registers on
the non-bevel side of the
blade and holds firmly; when
the jig is removed, the blade
remains precisely positioned during sharpening.
Stone not included.
With a simple turn of the micro-bevel knob, a
perfectly parallel micro-bevel can be applied without
Blade Carrier
the need to reposition the blade in the guide. The 2" wide Registration jig
roller provides stability for narrow blades. Patent pending. sets the blade
projection.
05M09.01P Honing Guide Mk.II $48.50 Shipping and N.Y. sales tax extra. Clamping Bar
Registration Jig
Jig squares and
For details on this product, visit us online or call for a centers blades.
free catalog. 1-800-683-8170 www.leevalley.com
Registration Stop
P.O. 1780, Ogdensburg, N.Y. 13669 Micro-bevel knob

TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Use long stock or scrap to

High and Dry support smaller pieces
After painting and finishing mouldings, doors
and various project parts, I’m always at a loss
for drying room in my shop. To solve the prob-
lem, I designed a system of drying racks made
from pipe clamps and wood scraps. Spacer blocks
To make the racks, I cut a bunch of MDF
scraps to a common length and width. I then Scrap boards drilled
to slip over pipes
drilled holes in them slightly larger in diam-
eter than the pipe on my clamps. At the same Extra end jaw
time, I sawed up some spacer blocks to insert
between the MDF scraps to make shelves of
a sort, as shown at right.
To set up the racks, I just secure the pipe
clamps to the edges of my bench, and slip the
drilled scrap MDF boards over them. Plac-
ing spacer blocks between the MDF boards,
I stack the pieces as high as needed, then lay Attach pipe clamps to benchtop
the finished stock across the boards to dry.
Alternatively, I can lay long strips of scrap
across the boards to serve as support for smaller tion of the rack up above my benchtop, leaving
workpieces. By slipping an extra clamp jaw fac- me free to work below the drying stock.
ing upward on the clamps for the bottom shelf Roger DuBois
to rest on, I can raise the entire stackable sec- Dudley, Massachusetts
A Knockdown Benchtop
Being cramped for shop space, I needed a bench that could be easily I decided to build a grid of 2 x 4s that would straddle a pair of saw-
set up and broken down. It had to be large and strong enough to sup- horses, and that could be broken down and stored in the corner as a
port the heavy furniture that I refinish, as well as my benchtop tools. few sticks when not in use. Using three 8'-long 2 x 4s and three 4'-long
I also needed it to serve as a support for sawing full sheets of MDF and 2 x 4s, I sawed and chiseled out three notches halfway through each
plywood into manageable sizes. piece to join the six pieces as shown. For a sturdy grid, cut these half-
lap joints to create a snug fit. (I letter-coded mine for easy assembly.)
Shallow notches in the underside of the end pieces hold the frame
Notches face downward on the 4' center piece
tightly to my sawhorse beams. Alternatively, you could attach cleats
that straddle the tops of your sawhorses.
The top surface of my grid sits at about waist height. To serve as a
bench, I cover it with a sheet of plywood or MDF. When cutting sheet
goods, I simply lay them across the grid and set the blade on my portable
circular saw to project only slightly through the workpiece.
Leslie Harrison
Notches face upward Bremerton, Washington
on the 4' end pieces
Notch underside to
accept sawhorse beam
" " "
Label boards
for easy setup

Improve Your Clamp Pads A Helping Hand at Motor Alignment
with Magnets and Tape I’ve never had a fun time aligning and
adjusting the pulleys and belt tension on
After too many times of struggling to glue up
contractors’ saws. It seems I always need
projects while juggling project parts, clamps
an extra pair of hands to hold the motor in
and clamp pads, I realized I could make at
place after adjusting everything. When I
least one part of the operation a lot easier by
try to tighten the motor bracket bolts, the
simply improving my clamp pads.
belt tension always seems to pull every-
I start by making my clamp pads from 1 ⁄2"-
thing out of whack.
thick pieces of MDF with the edges slightly
However, the last time I was making
chamfered. I make most of my pads 11 ⁄2" wide
these painful adjustments, my gaze landed
and 21 ⁄4" long. I drill a recess into one face of
on a one-handed clamp that was set up
each pad, and epoxy a 1 ⁄2"-diameter rare earth
as a spreader. A light went on, and I was
disk magnet into it, making sure that the face
soon using the one-handed clamp as a
of the magnet is slightly recessed from the
temporary jack under the motor bracket
face of the pad. The magnets hold the pads
to support the weight of the motor while
to the jaws of my metal clamps tenaciously,
I tightened the fittings. PW
eliminating one set of loose items that have
David Thiel
to be held in position during glue up. I further
senior editor
improved the pads by wrapping them with
plastic packing tape to resist excess glue.
Ken Burton Use a spreader clamp as a
New Tripoli, Pennsylvania temporary motor support
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Ultra-Precision Woodworking Tools
TOOL TEST
DeWalt’s Flush-cutting Jigsaw a Strong Competitor
W e don’t usually use the Tool Test column

as a compare-and-contrast opportunity,
but when looking at the newest jigsaw from
The main differences are two
features. The Bosch offers a preci-
sion blade guide that offers slightly
DeWalt, we had to. Bosch has been a recog- better blade control in turns. The
nized leader in the jigsaw category for years, DeWalt offers what is actually an
so we put the DW331K up against the Bosch accessory to allow cuts right up to
1590EVS. The result: DeWalt is a strong com- the front edge of the shoe. This is
petitor in the jigsaw category. an extension blade (shown in the
Both saws’ specifications are nearly identi- jigsaw at right) that is pretty clever.
cal: variable speed, four-position orbital action, But don’t think you can just buy
blower, toolless shoe adjustment, toolless blade the extension blade and put it in
change and dust collection available. Even the your existing jigsaw. Your guard
prices are within $10 of each other. would need to be redesigned to
Some of the differences are slight, but allow clearance for the blade.
may be significant to the individual user. The bottom line is neither of
The Bosch had a 90dB sound rating while these features pushed one jigsaw
the DeWalt came in at 94dB. Also, the DeWalt over the other. Both are good saws,
has a slightly higher strokes-per-minute count so we called it a tie. The flush-cutting feature SPECIFICATIONS
(3,100 versus Bosch’s 2,800). Plus, the Bosch may help break the tie for your needs. DeWalt DW331K Jigsaw
weighs in at 6.9 pounds, while the DeWalt is The last generation of DeWalt jigsaws fell Street price: $159
slightly lighter at 6.3 pounds. short of our expectations, so with this new Motor: 6.5 amp, 500-3,100 spm
Overall we found the performance of the model (and a similar 18-volt cordless version Weight: 7.5 lbs
jigsaws nearly identical. Both had low vibra- for $249) DeWalt was a very strong contender Performance: ●●●●❍
Price range: $$$$
tion during use, provided superior performance for the “best-in-field” position.
DeWalt: 800-433-9258 or
in cutting melamine and solid lumber, and in — David Thiel
dewalt.com
handling sharp curves in thick wood. For more information, circle #179 on Free Information Card.
Lie-Nielsen Convex-soled Plane Has Many Uses

As my woodworking has evolved to encompass plane) instead of down
more curved and sculptural forms, including (like a bench plane). This
chair seats and the like, I’ve turned to tools is a significant improvement
with curved cutting surfaces, from rasps to because it allows you to eas-
travishers to specialty spokeshaves. ily alter the cutting angle
But what I really needed was this new plane of the tool, which helps
from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. cut reversing or weird grain
The 1001 ⁄ 2 is based on the now-discon- with less tear-out – a real
tinued Stanley version that was marketed to advantage in curved work.
model-makers, patternmakers and luthiers. Plus, the lowered position
But in typical Lie-Nielsen fashion, the of the blade keeps it from
company has refined the design to make digging into your hand like
it more useful. The Stanley version had a the original version.
spoon-shaped sole that was curved in a tight The 1001 ⁄2 has seen a lot SPECIFICATIONS
7 ⁄ 8" radius across its width and in a 12" radius of use in my work. It replaced my travisher as Lie-Nielsen 1001⁄2
along the sole’s length. The Lie-Nielsen’s sole the tool of choice for hollowing chair seats. Street price: about $85
has a much shallower curvature (3" by 27"). Plus, it excels at tweaking mouldings and Sole length: 31 ⁄2"
This reduced curve allows the plane to take working any coved shape. The short length of Iron width: 7⁄8"
a wider shaving in most applications, such the plane (5" overall) and its so-called “squirrel Iron: Cryo-treated A2
as chair seats. tail” at the back of the tool make it a comfort- Performance: ●●●●●
However, the biggest improvement is that able extension of my hand. Price range: $$$$
Lie-Nielsen made its version of the plane with — Christopher Schwarz Lie-Nielsen Toolworks: 800-327-2520 or
lie-nielsen.com
the bevel of the cutter facing up (like a block For more information, circle #180 on Free Information Card.

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TOOL TEST
Get the Advantages of Hide Glue Without the Glue Pot

Traditional hide glue has many advantages for chairs, because it removes one of the major into a cup of warm tap water (which makes
woodworking. It’s reversible – a little heat and stresses of glue-ups. it flow easily) and settle in for a much more
water allow you to disassemble a joint. And Equally important is its reversibility. While relaxed glue-up. — CS
the glue can be tweaked (by adding urea) to building one Welsh chair I accidentally glued For more information, circle #181 on Free Information Card.
have a longer open time. a leg into the wrong mortise and left it there.
But most hide glues require that you mix A little warm water and heat from an iron and
them yourself, keep them heated in a glue pot the leg pulled free. With yellow glue I would
(carefully watching the temperature and for have been out of luck.
mold growth) and they have an odor that puts There are some assemblies for which I
off some people. still favor yellow glue: I like the fast setup
In response, furniture maker and con- when making panels from narrower boards,
servator W. Patrick Edwards developed Old for example. But when assembling anything
Brown Glue, which has all the advantages of complex, I drop a bottle of Old Brown Glue
traditional hide glues and none of the disad-
vantages. Old Brown Glue comes premixed, is
liquid at room temperature and has almost no SPECIFICATIONS
odor (it’s as mild smelling as your yellow glue, Old Brown Glue
really). And after using a couple bottles, I am Street price: $8 for 5 oz.; $21 for 16 oz.
really sold on this glue as an excellent adhesive Ingredients: Hydrolyzed collagen, urea
for assembling furniture and chairs. Open time: up to one hour
Old Brown Glue has a much longer open Clamp time: 12 hours
Performance: ●●●●❍
time than standard yellow glues. You can con-
Price range: $$$
tinue to work with your clamps and parts for
Tools for Working Wood: 800-426-4613 or
as long as an hour before the glue sets up. This toolsforworkingwood.com
is ideal for complex assemblies, especially
Oneway’s 1224 Lathe Offers Increased Capacity

For turners who dream of owning a Oneway on and you barely hear it run.
lathe, the model 1224 is a good way to make The spindle turns in four preci-
that dream a reality. While it’s not the least sion headstock bearings.
expensive Oneway, its additional capacity For a relatively smaller lathe,
(for only about $200 more than the smaller it weighs in at 300 pounds, some
1018) makes the choice a no-brainer. of which is in its heavy-duty steel
The 1018, with 10" swing and 18" between bench. It’s powered by a
centers, is in the mini-lathe category even 1 hp motor configured for
though in every respect other than capacity either 110 volt or 220V. An
it’s in a class by itself. The 1224, with a 12" electronic drive controller
swing and 24" between centers, sufficiently reverses and provides infi-
increases capacity to satisfy all but the more nitely variable rpm from
serious bowl turners. We do wish the between- zero to 4,500 while using
centers capacity were 6" more to handle stan- a two-step pulley. The
dard table leg lengths. A 24" bed extension is headstock spindle is a No.
available for an extra $275. 2 morse taper with 1" x 8 SPECIFICATIONS
I turned a 10"-diameter hard maple bowl threads per inch. At just Oneway 1224 Lathe
on the 1224 and it was a joy. Its performance less than $2,000 it’s a lot Street price: $1,995
was superior to a larger 16" swing capacity of lathe. It can be ordered Features: Weld design kills vibration; four-
lathe I routinely use. The first thing you notice directly from Oneway, or bearing spindle headstock
Performance: ●●●●●
about this lathe is its fit and finish, and the through Woodcraft, Craft
Price range: $$$$$
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TOOL TEST
Shop Fox Overarm Router

I’m a tool junkie, but I’ll be the first to admit
this overarm router doesn’t belong in every-
one’s shop. But ... if you’re doing any kind of
repetitive pattern work, sign-making or just
want to pretend you have a CNC router, then
this is a really cool tool.
The concept is very simple. A standard REAL LENGTH PINNER
router body (it will accommodate most rout- A few years ago a new pneumatic tool was
ers on the market) is mounted in a collar that introduced that I fell in love with – the 23-
is attached to dual cylindrical ways that are gauge pinner. Significantly thinner than
fitted with a pneumatic piston. A foot pedal an 18-gauge brad, and headless, these
tools made it possible to attach moulding
connects to your air hose and controls the up-
quickly leaving such a small hole that it
and-down motion of the sliding bracket. wasn’t even worth putting putty on.
One of six different diameter pins is then One downside to the pinners was that
inserted into the table to guide any pattern because of the thinness of the pins, the
you’d like. The foot pedal leaves your hands SPECIFICATIONS longest fastener was only 1" in length.
free to control the movement of the pattern Shop Fox Overarm Router (W1736) That’s a decent length for many applica-
and your finished piece. An adjustable depth Street price: $595 tions, but I kept finding places I would have
collar controls the depth the bit bites. Max stroke: 51 ⁄2" liked to use a pin instead of a brad, but 1"
This tool is fairly light (60 lbs.) and it Throat capacity: 18" was too short.
mounts easily to a benchtop. Initial setup is Collar sizes: 41 ⁄4", 31 ⁄2", 31 ⁄4" & 321 ⁄64" Now Grex Power Tools has introduced
important to ensure accurate alignment, but Performance: ●●●●❍ the P630 pinner that fires 23-gauge head-
Price range: $$$$ less pins up to 13 ⁄8" in length. This is very
after that, it’s a lot of fun and a tool that you’ll
Woodstock Int’l: 800-840-8420 or cool. We found the pinner to be well made
find lots of excuses to use. — DT with a small nose that makes positioning
woodstockint.com
For more information, circle #183 on Free Information Card.
the fasteners easy. The magazine is also
user-friendly, offering adjust-free fitting for
any length pin.
Bosch Trimmer Not Just for Laminate We tested the P630 in a variety of hard-
and softwoods, and were pleased with the
Bosch has upgraded and redefined its line of trim routers to gun’s ability to sink the full 13 ⁄8" length
make them more durable and convenient for woodworking without pause. A double trigger safety
operations – though the tool was originally designed for adds a good layer of safety, without unduly
the laminate-installation industry. interfering with operation.
The base is beefier and offers an easier fine-depth adjust- However, there is one drawback to my
ment (one revolution is 3 ⁄64"), while still maintaining par- enthusiasm: As of our publication deadline,
allelism to the bit. A slick thread by-pass feature makes the P630 was retailing for about $225,
coarse height adjustments simple as well. which is about $100 more than the shorter-
A conventional spindle lock and single wrench replace length competitors.
the old two-wrench system (one wrench acted as a spindle For a distributor near you call Grex at
888-447-3926 or visit grexusa.com for
lock). And an overmoulded contoured grip improves the
more information. — DT
tool’s comfort when in use.
The tools are available in a single-speed model (PR10E) ABOUT OUR TOOL RATINGS
or in a variable-speed model (PR20EVSK) as tested. A kit Performance is rated on a one-to-five scale.
(PR20EVSNK, $199) includes the variable-speed router, You won’t see a low rating (“one or two”)
an offset base, tilt base and underscribe guide. because we don’t publicize inferior tools.
The 5.7-amp motor provides good power “Five” indicates the leader in the category.
with soft starts. The variable speed is for SPECIFICATIONS Five dollar signs indicates highest price in the
category. Three indicates an average price.
larger profile bits – traditional trimmers Bosch PR20EVSK Palm Router If you have tool questions, call me at 513-
run too fast for most profiles. A 10' rubber Street price: $120 (PR10E: $99) 531-2690 ext. 1255, or e-mail me at david.
cord and edge guide are included. These Motor: 5.7 amp, 16,000 to 30,000 rpm [email protected]. Or visit our web site at
Performance: ●●●●● popwood.com to sign up for our free e-mail
are all good changes to an already good
Price range: $$$ newsletter.
tool. PW — DT
Bosch: Tools: 877-267-2499 or boschtools.com — David Thiel, senior editor
For more information, circle #184 on Free Information Card.

ENDURANCE TEST
Lie-Nielsen
No. 41⁄2
Smoothing
Plane
Photo by Al Parrish
Heavy, precisely made and
SPECIFICATIONS
surprisingly easy to wield. Lie-Nielsen No. 41/2 Plane
Street price: $300
Iron: 23 ⁄8"-wide cryo-treated A2 steel
Sole flatness: Better than .0015" in all
W oodworkers tend to get obsessed with

their smoothing planes. No other plane
requires as much tuning and no other plane
Since this tool was introduced in 1999,
Lie-Nielsen has upgraded it. Most noteworthy
is the fact that you can buy this tool with a
places; no gaps visible under straightedge
Squareness of sidewalls: Small amount of
light observable under engineer’s square, but
rewards its user with the same gossamer shav- high-angle frog. This so-called “York pitch”
unmeasurable to a .0015" feeler gauge
ings. I have 10 smoothers (I can quit any time, frog raises the blade to a 50° angle, up from
Upgrades: Available with a stock 50° frog
dear) and so it’s always interesting to observe 45°. If you work with hardwoods, order the tool
for no extra charge; additional 50° frog, $75;
which one I unconsciously reach for. with the high-angle frog (it doesn’t cost more)
also available with a corrugated sole and
In all honesty, it’s not this plane. For most because it does make a performance differ- rosewood handles (both untested)
smoothing tasks I favor the Lie-Nielsen No. 4 ence. I don’t think you need the 45° frog.
For more information: Contact Lie-Nielsen
in bronze, equipped with a high-angle frog. My conclusion is based on working with
Toolworks at 800-327-2520 or lie-nielsen.com
But whenever I have a tabletop or large two of these planes in three different con-
cabinet side, the No. 41 ⁄2 is the plane I grab. figurations: with a 45° frog, a 50° frog and an
And as I put it to work I always wonder why I experimental 55° frog made by Lie-Nielsen. important one, in my opinion. Lie-Nielsen
don’t use it more. It is a jewel. After considerable use in curly cherry and stopped using the springy Stanley-style
With a body that’s 27 ⁄8" wide, 101 ⁄4" long maple, I found that the 50° frog was the best chipbreakers. Lie-Nielsen replaced this fussy
and nearly 6 pounds, this plane is much big- compromise. With the 45° frog there was more and unreliable design with an “improved
ger than its smaller cousins in the smoother tear-out. With the 55° frog the plane was a bit chipbreaker,” which is now standard equip-
family. Though fans of wooden planes will hard to push and the iron seemed to dull faster ment on all the company’s bench planes. This
disagree, I like heavy smoothers. Extra mass (though there was even less tear-out with the chipbreaker is thick, flat and milled on the
keeps the tool from jumping out of the cut and 55° frog than with the other two frogs). underside so it has a metal lip that mates with
makes the plane easier to start. Is it more tir- Aside from the frog, Lie-Nielsen has made the iron. The design isn’t perfect – I’ve had
ing to use? Perhaps. But because a smoothing two other notable upgrades. The company one improved chipbreaker that needed a lot
plane takes just a few passes on a board, it’s a now uses cryogenically treated A2 steel for of work. But these chipbreakers are indeed
non-issue. (And no matter what plane you use, its irons instead of high-carbon steel. During much improved compared to the previous
it is far less boring than power sanding.) my test with the 55° frog, I also compared the design, which could require a couple hours
original iron to the new A2 iron. The A2 goes of tuning in really bad cases.
longer between sharpenings. Some wood- With these upgrades, and Lie-Nielsen’s
ABOUT OUR ENDURANCE TESTS Every
workers complain that A2 can’t get as sharp as commitment to quality, this tool is worthy of
tool featured in our Endurance Test column
high-carbon steel. While this might be true, I being your only smoothing plane, especially if
has survived at least two years of heavy use
in our shop here at Popular Woodworking.
get A2 plenty sharp for my picky tastes. you tend to build large-scale furniture. PW
The final improvement was the most — Christopher Schwarz
popwood.com 29
POWER-TOOL JOINERY
Cope-and-stick Joints
Run the moulding and
make the joint with this
time-tested technique.
T he so-called cope-and-stick joint – a.k.a.

the rail-and-stile joint, the rail-and-pat-
tern joint, etc. – is an efficiency expert’s dream
system. The joint is virtually synonymous with
raised-panel doors. However, that’s a little
parochial; you can use it for constructions
other than doors, and the panels don’t have
to be raised. But its utility in doormaking is
more than enough to merit a place in your
Photo by Al Parrish
power-tool joinery repertoire.
Typically, two separate bits are used. One
is the sticking (or stile or pattern) bit, and
the other is the cope (or rail) bit. In one pass, The moulding profile cut in reverse forms an integral part of the cope-and-stick joint.
the so-called sticking cutter forms the panel
groove and the decorative edge profile. With
this cutter you machine one long edge of the that with a little experience, you can set up • Next, cut the tenons and then fit them
stiles, and the top and bottom rails, and both and cut the joinery for a door in about 10 to to the mortises.
edges of mullions and intermediate rails. (To 15 minutes. • Cut the decorative profile.
my understanding the term “sticking” stems To fully grasp what I mean about efficiency, • Cut the panel groove.
from the profile being formed directly on the compare that two-step process against this • Trim the profile at the joints, an opera-
frame member – it’s “stuck” there – as opposed routine of the traditional door maker: tion usually called mitering the sticking, so the
to it being a separate strip that’s attached.) • Lay out each joint. joints close and the profile on the rail meets
The cope cutter forms, all in one cut, a stub • Excavate the mortises with chisels and the profile on the stile in a crisp miter.
tenon (or tongue) that mates with the panel a mallet, with a hollow-chisel mortiser, or I’ve recently done this. It’s a lot of setups.
groove and the cope of the sticking profile. maybe with a router and jig. It required a hollow-chisel mortiser, three
Copes are cut across the ends of all rails and continued on page 32
mullions. Perhaps it’s a bit of stretch to say this,
Bits are available as
but a coped joint won’t peek open seasonally
pairs of matched cutters
the way a miter will. Finish carpenters cope or single bits. Single bits
architectural trim at inside corners rather are either height adjust-
than mitering it for just this reason. able or stacking with a
The joint thus is cut by milling every frame reversible cutter.
piece with one bit and selected pieces with
the second. I’ve never timed it, but I’d bet
Step photos by the author
by Bill Hylton
Bill is the author of several woodworking books
including “Bill Hylton’s Power-Tool Joinery” (Popular
Woodworking Books). To purchase, visit your local
bookseller, call 800-448-0915 or visit popwood.com.

P R O F E S S I O N A L- G R A D E T O O L S F O R S E R I O U S W O O D W O R K E R S
FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR TOOLS, VISIT DELTAMACHINERY.COM AND PORTER-CABLE.COM
POWER-TOOL JOINERY
Use one of the coped pieces to set the height for

the sticking cutter.
Set the height of the cope cutter by measuring the

Cutting the Joinery
position of the tongue.
If you have just purchased a bit or set of bits to
do cope-and-stick joinery, I think you should
router-table setups and two table saw setups. spend a little time getting familiar with it.
And to get an acceptable assembly, I actu- Take as much time as you need to make both
ally had to use one of those old-time cordless cope and stick cuts. Here’s your goal: a setup
tools – a chisel. With cope and stick, it’s two block with an edge sticked and an end coped.
router-table setups and you’re done. Use a block of scrap to push the end of the rail into With that in hand, you can quickly set up the
the cutter for the cope. It will prevent tear-out
The trade-off (there’s always a trade-off) is bits any time you need to.
and give you better control.
strength. The joint is easy to make, but it isn’t The usual routine is to cope the rail ends
as strong as a mortise-and-tenon joint. first, then stick all the stiles and rails. So that’s
Is it strong enough for the average frame- the capacity of the cope cutter. You may find the routine we’ll follow here.
and-panel application? Personally, I think it leaves a wafer of waste attached along the Before doing any setup or cuts, reflect on
the joint is fine for doors on cabinets and stub-tenon shoulder. the fact that the cope cut is cross grain. That
cupboards, and for casework components. For doors especially, the stock must be flat, means you need to back up the work to prevent
Provided it is machined accurately and glued straight and true. You can get away with using splinters from being torn from the back edge by
well, it’s plenty strong. If the strength of a slightly bowed stock for a frame-and-panel unit the cutter. Depending on the size and number
mortise and tenon is deemed essential – for so long as it isn’t a door. If the wood in a frame- of rails, I’ll gang them up and feed the lot of
heavier assemblies such as architectural doors, and-panel unit is bowed (not crooked, not them past the cutter, pushing them along the
for example – there are good ways to reinforce twisted, just bowed), the unit will be bowed. fence with a square scrap. The pusher acts as
the cope-and-stick joint, such as with dowels If the unit is a structural part of the case, it a backup, preventing any splintering.
and loose tenons. will be anchored to other elements that may Some woodworkers prefer to use a more
To make a frame using this joinery, you pull it into line and hold it there. But if it is a formal guide, such as a coping sled. There’s
need the proper bits and a mid-power, table- door, it won’t hang flat, and that problem you no shame in that at all. However a sled does
mounted router. With a few exceptions, the won’t be able to conceal. impact the bit height setting so you have to
cope-and-stick bits can be run full-tilt in a Dress the chosen stock to whatever thick- accommodate the sled base’s thickness.
11 ⁄2-horsepower router. ness you’ve settled on. You also need several The first setup task, of course, is the bit.
pieces for testing the setups, bearing in mind Secure the cope cutter in the router’s collet.
Preparing the Stock that these particular pieces can be a second- Then establish a height setting. Knowing
By industry convention, cope-and-stick bits ary wood. The important thing, to me, is to the industry standards, you won’t be wrong
are designed for 3 ⁄4"-thick stock. Because this plane all the stock to a consistent thickness. to measure 7 ⁄16" to 5 ⁄8" from the tabletop (or
stock thickness is standard in most areas of I achieve consistency by planing all of it at coping sled base) to the corner of the tenon-
the United States and Canada, you shouldn’t the same time. cutter. You’ll get an 1 ⁄8"- to 3 ⁄16"-wide shoulder
have problems if you buy dressed stock. Now rip the stock to width, then crosscut on the stub tenon.
You do have some leeway. You can finesse the parts to length. When you cut the rails, If you already have a setup block – one that
the bit height setting to reduce the profile you have to account for the sticking width. came with the bits or one you made – tuck it
depth and increase the width of the panel- Usually, but not always, the width is 3 ⁄8". So into the bit and adjust the bit up and down.
groove shoulder, or to increase the profile and if, for example, you’re making an 18"-wide If you are using a coping sled, you must, of
reduce the shoulder. The problem when you door and using 13 ⁄4"-wide stiles, the distance course, set the block on the sled when gaug-
creep below 11 ⁄16" in thickness is in fitting the between the stiles is 141 ⁄ 2". But to account ing the bit elevation.
sticking profile on the edge and still having for the sticking, you need to add 3 ⁄ 4" to the Set the fence next, positioning it with its
enough stock to support the panel groove. As length of the rails (3 ⁄8" for each stile, or twice face tangent to the pilot bearing. It helps to
the thickness creeps above 7⁄8", the problem is the width of the profile). use a zero-clearance facing. The zero-clear-

positioning them just fore and aft of the bit,
where you need the pressure.
When everything is set up properly, after
you’ve adjusted and micro-adjusted the bit
height, created zero-clearance support around
the bit, positioned the featherboards, and
done a test cut that resulted in a pleasing fit,
rout on. Stick the stiles and the rails. You may
find that it won’t take as long to do the work,
as it did to set up for it. Taking your time with
Make the sticking cuts by running the long edges along the fence. Featherboards will keep the stock flat
the setup will guarantee you smooth sailing
on the surface of the router table.
when you put the parts together.
ance fit is most important on the infeed side case. If you can get away without resetting the Assembly
of the cutter. If your fence is split, you can feed fence, you’ll save some time and effort. Assembling a cope-and-stick frame is pretty
the infeed half of a sacrificial fence into the If you have a setup block, use it, of course. straightforward. Work on a flat, true surface.
spinning bit, right up against the pilot bear- Otherwise, set the bit against a coped Apply glue judiciously to the ends of the rails.
ing. With the solid fences on my router tables, workpiece. Make a test cut, and fit it to one Tighten the clamps gently, alternating back
I use an expendable strip of thin plywood or of the coped rails. You want the surfaces flush, and forth, and keeping the rails flat on the
hardboard to make a zero-clearance opening and running your fingers across the seam will clamp bars. Very little pressure is required,
as shown in the photo above. tell you if you’ve achieved that. If some adjust- and over-tightening the clamps will likely
Of course you need to make a test cut. If ment is necessary, make it and run a new test distort the joints and thus the assembly. Make
you have a setup block, fit your test cut to its piece across the bit. Keep adjusting and testing sure the assembly is square and flat by com-
sticked edge. If not, look at the cut and assure until you have the fit you want dialed in. paring the diagonal measurements and by
yourself it’s not obviously misaligned. Set featherboards, if you favor their use, checking with winding sticks. PW
The cope cuts should be completed in one
pass. Repeating a pass can enlarge the cut and
create a loose fit. In theory, a second pass can
enlarge the cut only if there’s some movement
in your setup. In practice, there probably is
a “skoshe” of movement possible, no matter
how firmly you grip the work.
Pay attention when you turn the rails to
cope the second end. You want to turn them,
not flip them over. Mark the face that’s sup-
The pieces should come together flush on their faces (left), not offset (right).
posed to be up as you make the cope cut. Before
you cut, look for the mark.
Rout the sticking second. Chuck the
sticking bit in the router collet, and adjust its
height. It’s great if you can do this without
moving the fence, but that’s not always the
A zero clearance opening in the fence will help

prevent chipping as the cuts are made. Cope-and-stick joinery is an efficient method for assembling doors and other panels.
popwood.com 33
GREAT WOODSHOPS
Yankee’s
Shop True
to Name
Two days on the set
of ‘The New Yankee
Workshop’ reveal
surprising truths about the
way Norm Abram works.
Photos by Al Parrish
W e’re lost. I’m trudging through two feet

of snow in what looks to be someone’s
backyard and there’s no sign of the image
found on millions of woodworkers’ televi- this show’s set than glitter. Here, the legend- How did this happen?
sion screens every Saturday as they prepare for ary frugal Yankee blood runs deeper than The carpenter-turned-celebrity story
another half hour with Norm Abram. Where you might think – Abram’s woodshop and begins more than 30 years ago when Abram
is the blue barn door? Where is the leaded practices are surprisingly normal. spotted an ad for a carpentry job pinned to a
glass window? Where is the iconic “The New bulletin board at the University of Massachu-
Yankee Workshop” sign? The Birth of a Star Woodworker setts at Amherst. After spending two years
A few driveways and turnarounds later, Abram is a celebrity. He’s recognized in air- working toward a mechanical engineering
just when I had decided that all of it – the ports, restaurants and grocery stores. He’s degree, Abram switched majors and was in his
shop, the sign, the setting – must be part of an appeared as a guest on late-night television, fifth year of college studying business admin-
elaborate set and therefore fake, we stumble afternoon talk shows and national morning istration. It was the early 1970s and office jobs
on television’s most famous woodshop. news programs. His likeness has been featured were scarce. Within mere credits of earning
I can’t tell you the exact location of The on “Saturday Night Live” and “Home Improve- his degree Abram got the carpentry job, quit
New Yankee Workshop for two reasons. One, ment.” Fans have devoted web sites to him. His school and moved to Vermont.
even with directions, I don’t know if I could woodworking methods and cache of power By this time Abram was well-versed in car-
find it again. Two, I promised to keep mum. tools are criticized as much as they’re cov- pentry. His summers during high school and
But I will tell you this: None of it’s fake. What eted. A variation of his first name has become college were spent remodeling and building
looks like the front of the shop on TV actually part of woodworking’s lexicon – “Normite” is custom homes with his father’s construction
is in the back, to better hide its location. And Internet slang to describe someone who uses company. His carpentry skills and knowledge
if you slide that famous barn door open and power tools only. Esquire magazine has called of business administration proved beneficial
step inside, you’ll find yourself in a very real, him the most famous carpenter of all time; – he was quickly promoted to construction
very normal, working woodshop. excepting Jesus. site supervisor. Not wanting to take the next
Abram, host of the show, has received promotion, which would have put him in an
considerable flak and teasing for his remark- by Kara Gebhart Uhl office-like environment, Abram founded a
ably well-equipped shop. But two days with Comments or questions? Contact Kara at 513-531- general contracting firm, called Integrated
Abram proved that there’s a lot more dust on 2690 ext. 1348 or [email protected]. Structures Inc., in 1976.

One of his first contracting jobs was build- Victory Garden.” (The grounds surrounding Abram’s primary woodshop. While Abram has
ing a barn on Russell Morash’s property. Dur- the shop used to be the setting for the show.) a small shop in the basement of his own home,
ing this time Morash, a producer and director The shop has an indoor staircase leading to he does all of his serious woodworking here.
for WGBH, was busy creating television’s first a second floor, which is where Morash’s office Retired machines and tools typically go to
“how-to” home-improvement series, “This Old is located, as well as the bathroom. Morash’s personal woodshop, which is located
House.” Morash was impressed with Abram, Although Morash owns the building, it’s on his property in Nantucket, Mass.
his work and the small size of his scrap pile.
“He was quiet, effective, uncomplaining
and met deadlines,” Morash says of Abram.
“He was also unmarried and had no life,”
Morash adds, laughing. So, in the winter of
1978, Morash invited Abram to help renovate
the TV series’ first on-air project, a rundown
Victorian in Boston’s historic Dorchester sec-
tion. Abram agreed.
Abram hoped his family members might
catch him walking in the background, car-
rying a ladder. But he proved to be too good a
carpenter. It wasn’t long before he was named
master carpenter on the show and Morash
attached a microphone to his flannel shirt.
“Norm was nervous as hell,” Morash says.
“But he was good – credible, believable and
compelling.”
Several years later, with “This Old House”
still widely popular, Morash thought TV audi-
ences also would be interested in a series on The 36' x 26' saltbox-
woodworking – hence, “The New Yankee shaped shop doesn’t
Workshop.” But why would Morash choose look like a TV set except
Abram – a carpenter – to host a how-to TV for a few camera lights
series on building furniture? Morash, a self- hung from the ceiling.
proclaimed “wannabe carpenter who built the At right you can see
the back wall of the
occasional nightstand,” says the thought of a
shop. The stairs lead
carpenter not being able to build fine furniture to Executive Producer
never really occurred to him. and Director Russell
“I never thought he couldn’t do some- Morash’s office and a
thing,” Morash says. “In his very quiet way, bathroom.
he would figure it out.”
And Abram did figure it out. “The New If you were to walk
Yankee Workshop” recently concluded its 17th through the sliding
season. Abram also is one of the two original barn door, this is what
cast members still appearing on “This Old you would see to your
left. Many of Abram’s
House,” which recently celebrated its 25th
machines are on mobile
season as a nationally aired show. bases so they can be
easily tucked into a
A Familiar Woodshop corner when not in use.
Because of the show’s success, TV viewers
already are familiar with the layout of Abram’s
shop. But here are a few things you might not
know: Most of the lumber is stored in an out-
side building. Finishing takes place in a sepa-
rate room, which has a doorway leading to a
room filled with gardening tools. This room
used to be the utility shed for the show “The
popwood.com 35
GREAT WOODSHOPS
Many of the woodshop’s fixtures that make and Morash worked together to transform an
the shop unique, such as the miter saw stand, existing building into the workshop. They
the router station and the work hutch, are designed the shop using a floor plan and a cou-
projects Abram has built for the show. (For a ple elevations drawn up on an 81 ⁄2" x 11" piece
virtual tour of the workshop, visit newyankee. of paper. While sitting on an airplane, they
com and click the “Tour the Shop” link.) sketched out where they wanted the tools.
The saltbox-shaped shop is 36' x 26' (this
7 New Yankee Workshop Myths doesn’t include the finishing or lumber stor-
Despite the knowns, myths still run rampant. age areas). One wall is only 8' high, hence the
Yes, there’s a Timesaver (a very wide wide- saltbox shape. The high ceiling (which has
belt sander) in the shop that’s probably worth several skylights) is great for swinging long
more than my salary. There’s also an excess boards around, and for tucking away the light-
of clamps and quite a few drills and routers. ing needed for the show. The shop’s concrete
But much of the shop is actually quite Yan- floor features radiant heat.
kee-esque: Hand-me-down tools cover the However, the shop isn’t perfect. Abram
shop’s walls and old Maxwell House coffee says it was a serious mistake to not put dust
cans (storage bins) abound. So instead of tak- collection ducts in the floor. Another problem
ing the time to describe placement of tools, I with the floor: It’s concrete. After a long day
thought it prudent to instead dispel some of of building, Abram says he longs for a softer
This massive miter saw stand and storage center
the more common myths. wooden floor.
was a project on the show. Directly underneath
the miter saw is a roll-around scrap bin.
1. The New Yankee Workshop is a profes- 2. Abram only uses machines and tools the
sionally designed set for TV production. show’s underwriters give to him.
There aren’t hidden holes in the walls for Unless you’re familiar with Delta Machin- Most of the tools and machines used on
camera lenses and there aren’t missing walls. ery (one of the shows several underwriters), the show are gifts. However, Abram says he
Several dusty lights hanging from the 16'-high you probably wouldn’t know that Delta tools refuses to use a tool just because a certain
ceiling are the only indication that a TV show abound. In accordance with PBS guidelines, manufacturer gave it to him, even it if makes
is shot in the shop. Otherwise, the space feels stickers are carefully placed over manufacturer the manufacturer mad.
and functions like a woodworking shop. names on all the tools and machines in order “We don’t use anything because it’s given
Shortly before the first show aired Abram to create a generic shop. to us,” Abram says. “We use what we use
because they work. We’re going to use the
tools we think are best.”
Abram is careful about discussing his favor-
ite tools and machines because he works for a
show on public television and doesn’t want to
be seen as endorsing a particular brand. How-
ever, long-time viewers all know which tools
have become mainstays in the New Yankee
Workshop (think: red clamps) because they’re
used in project after project.
3. Almost everything in The New Yankee

Workshop is expensive and new.
The Timesaver aside, the tools in Abram’s
shop are the same tools seen in shops across the
country. Yes, he owns more than one router
(actually, there’s a drawer full of them). But
most woodworkers own at least two routers
and most professional woodworkers own sev-
eral for projects that require several setups.
Almost all of the tools are well-used and
Norm Abram’s shop does have a decent collection of hand tools. Abram “hides” his chisels in this wall- well-worn, and many of them are hand-me-
mounted tool chest, which was a project on the show. Lately, he’s become fond of Japanese hand saws. downs: An old Disston hand saw hanging on
Also note his measuring and marking tools. Abram says these are the most important tools he owns. the wall belonged to Morash’s father.

As far as the Timesaver is concerned, OK, Abram also takes digital pictures of the piece, a blooper tape. However, the fact of the matter
it’s a bit much. But to Abram, it is what it’s which helps him in his planning. is, there isn’t one. Because Abram builds each
called – a time saver. Although Abram tries If the project is complex, Abram will cre- project twice, rarely does he make a mistake
to keep his weekends free, he typically works ate a couple sketches – using these sketches, while building a project during a shoot.
121 ⁄2-hour days Monday through Friday. From his digital pictures and the recorded dimen- But, Abram is human. Hanging on the
early spring through late fall, a new episode of sions, he’ll then get his necessary material. “I wall in the shop is a piece of wood that Abram
“The New Yankee Workshop” is shot every always have very little leftover,” Abram says. botched while building the Butler’s Table. The
other week. Therefore, Abram typically has “There’s so much deep Yankee blood in me show’s staff made sure it was put on prominent
11 ⁄ 2 weeks to build each project, from start – I don’t cut many extra pieces.” display. “The beasts that we are, we feasted
to finish. And on top of that, he builds each Abram does have one shop assistant, Wade on this,” Morash says. “It was an example of
project twice. The first time he works out all Burcher. Burcher’s main responsibilities are to his fallibility. It was cruel, inhuman and we
the kinks, alone. The second time most of keep the shop clean, the tools sharp and the will pay for it in our next life.”
the process is filmed. machines well-tuned. Burcher, who has been Morash says part of the appeal of the show
with the show for a couple years, is himself a is that there is a certain satisfaction in seeing
4. The New Yankee Workshop is virtually woodworker and has watched the show since Abram building something without mak-
void of any hand tools. he was a child. (He’s also a whiz with “New ing a mistake. “It’s beautiful workmanship
The invention of the word “Normite” Yankee” facts – Morash and Abram claim he going together to form something wonderful,”
is just one example of how prominent the knows more about the show than they do.) Morash says. “There’s a calming influence to
“power-tool-only” reputation has become. watching someone do something well.”
Abram says that many people believe that 6. Abram knows everything there is to know
if they own the same number of power tools about woodworking. A Woodshop That Lives Forever
Abram uses on the show, then they could Abram is quick to admit that there are Much of woodworking is a practice in
build the projects he builds, too. Abram says several woodworking skills he has yet to mas- patience, and for years viewers have appreci-
this belief isn’t true – woodworking requires ter, including carving and marquetry. These ated Abram’s studied approach to the craft.
skill and much of that skill requires being able two skills in particular are ones he’d like to Abram says patience is a trait he inherited
to cut a tenon with a hand saw just as easily learn, if he had the time. Finishing also is his from his father, a man who didn’t believe in
as you would with a table saw – something weakness, he says. shortcuts. Patience is what allows Abram to
Abram has proven he can do. approach new tasks in a methodical manner,
Several projects from the show have 7. Abram never makes a mistake. allowing him to understand a new technique
required hand work. Abram hand-cut dove- “People always ask, ‘Do you make mis- or tool after experiencing it just once.
tails when building the Federal-Style Game takes?’” Abram says. “Yeah, I make mistakes.” Morash laughs as he describes a typical
Table, for example. But Abram says two prob- Morash says that viewers are always asking for scene in the shop whenever a new machine
lems exist with incorporating hand tools into arrives: He and Burcher are tearing the box
the show: Viewers of the show love power tools apart, ready to put it together, while Abram
and there’s not enough time. is quietly standing in the corner, reading the
Of course, this doesn’t mean Abram isn’t machine’s instruction manual.
fond of hand tools – in fact, he’s quite par- While Abram isn’t planning on quitting
ticular about them. For example, he keeps the show anytime soon, he also doesn’t plan on
a collection of inexpensive chisels in bright hosting the show forever. “Everything has to
yellow plastic trays propped up against a win- have an end point,” Abram says, adding that
dow in his shop. This isn’t because they are his this show’s end point will be when he stops
favorites. Rather, these are the ones he uses having fun. “I’ll be 56 this year,” he says. “By
for quick-and-dirty chisel jobs. When work- 60, I want to be in charge of my own life.”
ing on a project that requires fine chisel work, Morash recognizes that the show must
he’ll use his better ones, which he keeps safe have an end point, too. He says he fantasizes
in his hanging tool cabinet. Abram’s shop someday being on display at The
Smithsonian National Museum of American
5. Abram has a crew of woodworkers build- History, similar to the museum’s exhibit of
ing projects for the show. Julia Child’s kitchen (Morash produced sev-
Abram builds each and every project alone, eral of her shows). And while the display most
start to finish. His first step when building a likely will include all the glitter of a Timesaver,
project is to find a piece of furniture he wants Everything in Norm Abram’s shop isn’t brand if it’s true to the show, there will also be some
to build and record the furniture’s dimensions new. Here you can see some well-worn tools coffee cans, Abram’s well-worn leather tool-
in a notebook. This process is always filmed. stored in an old coffee can, Yankee style. belt, and some sawdust on the floor, too. PW
popwood.com 37
Norm Abram’s
Adirondack
Chair
Editor Steve Shanesy builds
an improved Adirondack chair with
I
’ve become keenly aware Working with Abram was fun,
throughout the years that to be sure. But I spent years work-
patience allows time for Norm Abram in The New Yankee ing in commercial shops build-
opportunities to come along ing hundreds of projects while
that might never have been pos- Workshop. Build the chair and working with others. And while
sible. Such is the case with this Abram is a celebrity, his pleasant
Adirondack chair built in The learn how Abram works. personality and easygoing manner
New Yankee Workshop with made me feel right at home, too.
Norm Abram. (To learn more about Abram and
Although projects similar to his shop see our Great Woodshops
this one are rather common fare project for the Popular Woodwork- tion, Abram is just a very like- column on page 34.)
for most woodworking maga- ing readers. Perfect! able, easy-going, hard-working,
zines, Popul ar Woodworking OK, some of you are certainly down-to-earth woodworker in An Improved
hasn’t offered one to readers for wondering, “What is it like work- a reasonably well-equipped, but Adirondack Design
more than 10 years. The project ing with Abram right there in not extravagantly so, woodshop. Now back to the project at hand:
has been discussed, of course, The New Yankee Workshop?” He was very much at home there. After getting acquainted at The
but for one reason or another, it So let’s get that part out of way. And it’s not a TV studio set with New Yankee Workshop, Abram
never happened. Then one day The most surprising thing was just woodworking equipment, but a and I first inspected the original
the phone rings and a representa- how “Norm-al” it was, if you’ll par- real woodshop. How fancy? I’ve Adirondack he built, one based
tive of “The New Yankee Work- don the pun. seen far more extravagant shops largely on a design his father had
shop” asks if we’d like to work with W hen you pa re away all belonging to home woodworkers used years ago. It had weathered
Abram to build the most popular the myths and misinforma- than this one. well and withstood the elements
project ever shown on the show. for more than a decade in continu-
Abram would build a chair and by Steve Shanesy with Norm Abram ous outdoor duty. He explained it
give it away as a promotion for the Comments or questions? Contact Steve at 513-531-2690 ext. 1238 was made from cypress, an excel-
show and I’d build a duplicate as a or [email protected]. lent choice for outdoor projects,

arrish
by A l P
Photos
Cut both chair
and he had laid in a supply for our Starting at the Bottom
side pieces at
new chairs. Essentially, this chair is built from the same time
We next reviewed the chair the ground up so the first pieces by nailing them
plans, one of those famous “mea- required are the two side members together in a
sured drawr-ings” Abram offers that slope back from the front, ver- waste section
viewers at the conclusion of each tical legs. Use the pattern to trace of wood. Band
show. This copy had some notes their shape on the stock, then saw to the tem-
plate line then
about minor modifications Abram cut them out using the band saw.
sand the edges
intended as improvements. The Abram suggested we nail the two smooth.
last thing we did before cutting sides together at the ends in the
wood was review several templates waste material and stack cut them
he made for the original chair both to save some time. Then we
and saved throughout the years. drum-sanded the sawn edges to
We used these patterns for the smooth the surface.
curved parts. Drawings for these Next use a gauge block and a
are included as part of the project miter saw or table saw so you can
plans presented here. repeat the same length cut exactly
If you begin the project by pre- for the lower rear crosspiece, the
paring the patterns and stock to front crosspiece and the seat slats.
the rough sizes the building will Use the pattern that provides the for the rear seat slat.) After band instances, carriage bolts, nuts and
move along pretty quickly. We curved shape of the lower rear sawing, sand the edges smooth washers. We used stainless steel
completed our chairs in less than a crosspiece. (Abram’s frugal, Yan- and be sure to set the waste piece fasteners knowing they’d stand
day while working at a steady, but kee blood became evident when he aside for later use. up to the rigors of life outdoors.
moderately easy, pace. pointed out that by using slightly These are more expensive than
wider stock than necessary for this A Little Assembly Work coated or plated fasteners, but
part, the waste piece makes the The first assembly chore is join- in the end are a far better value.
perfect matched curve needed ing the two sides with the front Screw lengths are 15 ⁄ 8" except
and lower rear crosspieces. The where noted. We also used out-
crosspieces overlap the sides and door adhesives. Abram used 3M
#BDLTMBUT care should be taken that the ends brand Marine Adhesive Sealant
are flush to the outside edges of 5200. Because my chair would be
6QQFSSFBSDSPTTQJFDF the sides. This will help keep your shipped to the Popular Woodwork-
$BSSJBHFCPMUT chair square as you build. ing shop in Ohio, I just screwed my
"SN The chair parts are assembled parts together so it could be disas-
QBSBMMFMUPCPUUPNPGMFHT
using mostly screws, or in a few sembled and more easily shipped.
-PXFSSFBS
DSPTTQJFDF NORM ABRAM’S ADIRONDACK CHAIR
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL COMMENTS
3FBSTFBUTMBU
T W L
4MBUT
❏ 2 Side members 3⁄4 51⁄2 343⁄4 Cypress
❏ 1 Lower rear 3⁄4 51⁄2 22 Cypress Use waste for
crosspiece rear seat slat
#SBDLFU
❏ 1 Front 3⁄4 31⁄2 22 Cypress
crosspiece
❏ 2 Front legs 3⁄4 31⁄2 231⁄4 Cypress
❏ 2 Arm brackets 3⁄4 3 65 ⁄8 Cypress
❏ 2 Arms 3⁄4 5 279 ⁄16 Cypress
4JEFNFNCFS
❏ 1 Upper rear 3⁄4 45 ⁄16 261⁄4 Cypress
'SPOUDSPTTQJFDF crosspiece
$BSSJBHFCPMUT
nVTIXJUIGSPOUFEHFPGMFH
❏ 1 Center back slat 3⁄4 31⁄2 303⁄4 Cypress
-FH ❏ 2 Intermediate 3⁄4 31⁄2 295 ⁄8 Cypress
back slats
❏ 2 Outer back slats 3⁄4 31⁄2 251⁄4 Cypress
❏ 5 Seat slats 3⁄4 21⁄2 22 Cypress

1 square = 1"

Outer back slat Intermediate back slat Center back slat Arm bracket
-PDBUJPOPGCBDLFEHF
PGMPXFSSFBSDSPTTQJFDF
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Side member

¡øCFWFM

Upper rear crosspiece 5PQFEHF

Arm
-PXFSSFBSDSPTTQJFDF 5PQFEHF ¡CFWFM

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1PTJUJPOPVUTJEFFEHFPGPVUFSCBDLTMBU
GSPNFOEPGMPXFSSFBSDSPTTQJFDF
Lower rear crosspiece & rear seat slat
popwood.com 41
Start the assem-
Later, back home, I re-assembled pair of screws for each connection
bly by gluing and
screwing the my chair using Titebond III placing them about 3 ⁄4" from the
lower rear cross- because I couldn’t find the prod- edges of the board.
piece to the chair uct Abram used. In the Midwest, Next the two front legs are
sides. For lasting I guess we just don’t have so much attached using three, 1 ⁄ 4" by 2"-
results, use a need for marine-grade adhesives long carriage bolts. Clamp the legs
marine grade or as they do nearer the coasts. in position before drilling. The
waterproof glue,
All screw holes should be correct position is 113 ⁄4" from the
and stainless
steel screws. pre-drilled for a couple reasons; bottom of the leg to the bottom of
to prevent splitting by drilling the front crosspiece.
a pilot hole and to countersink W hen lo c ati ng t he b olt
sufficiently to accept a wood plug holes, arrange them in a triangle
later. The plug not only helps the as shown in the diagram below.
appearance of the chair, but will Following the diagram carefully
also add to the chair’s durability. prevented me from placing a hole
We used a bit that drilled the hole where a screw for the front cross-
and counterbored for the plug in piece might be located.
the same operation. Attach the legs with the car-
Set up the two sides on the riage bolts, heads to the outside.
bench and first attach the lower When tightening the nuts, pre-
rear crosspiece. When that’s in vent the head from turning by
place, turn the work over and first seating the bolt head with
fasten the front crosspiece. Use a a hammer blow, engaging the
square corners underneath the
head in the wood.
%SJWFTDSFXTUISPVHI
UPQPGBSNJOUPMFH Arm and Arm Supports
BOECSBDLFU The next parts to prepare and
attach are the arms and arm
-FH
brackets. Each requires use of
#SBDLFU a pattern and should be cut on

Arm installation

over leg & bracket

$BSSJBHF
CPMUT

Drill 1⁄4" holes through the side members and front leg to accept stainless
steel carriage bolts. Use a clamp to hold the parts in position; the leg should
be flush to the side’s front edge and 113 ⁄4" up from the leg bottom to the bot-
Arm installation over rear
tom edge of the front crosspiece. crosspiece Centers for leg bolt holes

the band saw. Sand the edges as a right and left arm so choose your the leg’s width. Clamp each one attach the arms to the front legs
before. Additionally, the top edges edges accordingly. in place then drill and counter- and bracket. Use the diagram at
of the arms should be eased using We attached the arm brackets sink for the upper screw in each left to position the arm correctly
a 3 ⁄8" roundover bit in a router. We first. The top, or wide part of the bracket. Repeat for the lower screw before fastening. Again, be sure
routed only one edge, which desig- bracket, is positioned flush with but use a shorter, 11 ⁄4" screw. and use adhesive on each step of
nates it a top. So doing will create the top of the leg and centered on With the arm brackets in place, assembly as you proceed.
Building the Back

Now prepare the upper rear cross-
piece. Prepare the part by using
the pattern provided on page 41
for the inside curve. Note the
inside cut is not only curved, but
is cut at a 30° angle as well. Tilt the
band saw table appropriately then
saw the curve. Then return the
band saw table to 0°, or square, and
cut the ends. Sand the edges.
The upper rear crosspiece is
attached below the chair arms.
Use clamps to hold the piece in
place as you position it correctly,
that is, with a 201 ⁄ 2" distance
between the inside edges at the
backs of the arms. That might
leave up to a 1 ⁄4" overhang of the
arms at the outside edge. There
should be sufficient space to secure
the arms and crosspiece with two
carriage bolts at each end. Use a
Bolt the legs and side members together, bolt head to the outside with a nut and flat washer inside. Seat the square spring clamp to hold the parts in
shank below the head with a hammer blow. The shank will prevent the bolt from turning in the hole.
Spacer
Position and clamp the arm bracket then drill and countersink for two screws. Use three screws to attach the arm to the leg and arm bracket. Carefully posi-
The top edge of the support should be flush with the top of the leg and cen- tion the arm for a 3 ⁄4" overhang of the leg. Use a spacer to help position it.
tered in the width dimension of the leg. The arm overhangs the front edge of the leg 11⁄8".
popwood.com 43
Cut the upper rear crosspiece’s inside curved edge at
a 30° angle. Then return the band saw table to 0°, or Hold the upper back crosspiece in place with clamps so that the arms are 201⁄2" apart, then drill
square, and cut the round ends. each side for two carriage bolts.
place while drilling the 1 ⁄4" holes the crosspiece, but at an angle to Before a final sanding, I a good sanding (#150 grit). The
for the bolts. When done, install the back slat. grabbed some fall-off cypress relatively soft cypress sands easily.
the four bolts. Next, install the outer back and cut about 60 plugs for filling While sanding, I made sure any
At this point, your Adirondack slats. Position the bottom of the the holes left from countersink- sharp edges were eased.
chair should begin to take shape. slat 1" from the inside of the side ing the screws. I used a narrow I decided to leave the cypress
Aside from plugging the screw piece. Secure it, then position the chisel to pop the plugs loose from unfinished and allow the elements
holes, only installation of the upper portion so that it touches the board. I glued the plugs in the to eventually turn the light brown
back and seat slats remain before the inside edge of the arm. Fasten holes, leaving them proud. A flex- natural color to a silver gray. I
the job is done. it. Once both outside pieces are in ible, fine-tooth saw easily removed figure by the time that happens,
place, the remaining two interme- the excess plug material. the color will complement what
Back Slats and Seat Slats diate slats are merely positioned When all the plugs were glued I expect my hair color to be in
The back slats are the first slats with equal spaces between their in and trimmed, I gave my chair another 10 years. PW
to make. Prepare the back slats adjoining slats.
by using the patterns for the top Now it’s time to install the seat
Start installing
edges as shown in the diagram on slats. Start at the front with the
the back slats
page 41, then band saw the shapes. front edge overhanging the front with the center
Both back and seat slats should crosspiece by about 1 ⁄ 4". Put one slat first, then the
have their top edges rounded screw in each end and use two outer slats. The
over using a 1 ⁄4" roundover bit in screws equally spaced attaching last two inter-
a router mounted in a router table. it to the front crosspiece. mediate slats
Fan out the back pieces in their Continue to add seat slats are then easily
positioned with
proper order to make sure you rout allowing 1 ⁄ 4" spacing between
equal spacing
the correct edges. them and fasten each slat with between their
Now install the back slats. To one screw at each end. The final neighbors.
get the right look, proper spacing seat slat is the one with the curve,
of the slats is important. Start with which nests into the curve of the
the center slat, placing it dead cen- back. Leave space between this
ter in the back. I used four screws slat and the back so water can eas-
for each back slat, inserting one ily run off.
in the bottom, then made sure the
top was positioned properly, then Finishing Touches
I secured it with three more. Be Before finishing up the chair, give
careful drilling the screw holes in to the temptation to try it out!
and countersink for the upper It’s a surprisingly comfortable
crosspiece as these must be done chair, definitely not the seat to
on an angle, drilling straight into offer a difficult mother-in-law.

WOODWORKING
ESSENTIALS BY NICK ENGLER
7
CHAPTER
Advanced Techniques
n this chapter I’ll be sharing some Pattern sawing is another trick Cutting Coves
I advanced techniques you can use

on your table saw to do some amaz-
ing things. How about cutting coves
I’ll discuss. If you have a project that
requires multiple multi-sided shapes,
this technique will save you time.
The concept of cove cutting on a table
saw might sound strange. You’re essen-
tially using the side of the blade’s teeth
for crown moulding? That’s just one And finally, my favorite: How to to make a dishing cut along the length
application for a coved shape, and with bend a straight board into a curved of a board. While this isn’t an operation
a couple of simple jigs you can match board without steam bending. I’ll show most saw or blade manufacturers would
any size cove you want. you how to do it all with a technique suggest, it isn’t bad for the blade or the
And how do you get an odd-shaped called kerf cutting. saw as long as the cut is taken slowly
piece of wood such as a tree slab into Once you try these advanced table and in small increments. And it’s also
shape to move on to the next wood- saw techniques, there’s no end to the plenty safe as long as you use the correct
working step? A couple of tricks with a ways you’ll be able to put them to work jigs and techniques.
sled make this advanced technique easy. in your woodworking projects. The depth of the cove is determined
by the height of the blade above the
table. The width of the cove is deter-
mined by the angle of the board to
the saw. This is where it gets a little
tricky. To determine the coving angle,
some woodworkers use a trial-and-error
Photos by the author
method until they get what they want.
TOOL TIP:
Using The Right Blade
When cove cutting on the table saw it’s helpful to
use a blade with the proper tooth configuration. I
don’t say necessary, because you can make this cut
with any type of blade. But it’s more helpful to use a
combination or ripping blade than a crosscut blade
because the inside of the cove will be easier to sand.
A crosscut blade uses an alternate, top-bevel tooth
arrangement that will leave score marks on the cove.
Ripping and combination blades add a flat-topped
raker tooth, leaving a cleaner surface on the cove.
#8 x 1" FHWS
TIPS & TRICKS 3⁄4"
1⁄2" Stretcher
(4 req’d)
1"
TRIM TIP: 1" (typ)
Sprung Mouldings Pilot hole
location detail Rule
One of the most common usages for cove Rule
cuts is in making crown moulding. This 1⁄2" (typ)
type of moulding is referred to as a sprung
moulding because it will lean out from
the surface to which it’s attached. The
Illustrations by Mary Jane Favorite

Stretcher
two mounting faces of a sprung mould-
18"
ing can be cut at any angle, but the two
angles must add up to 90°. To complete
101⁄4" Exploded view
the moulding you need to double-bevel the
edges of the moulding stock on the table
saw. If you cut only one bevel (shown at
right) the remaining faces will look odd.
Parallel Rule Jig
A parallel rule consists of four pieces of wood – two rules and two stretchers. Join them at the
The example (below left) has been double ends with screws, making a parallelogram. All the screw holes must be centered between the
cut and now looks like a proper crown. edge of the rules and stretchers, and they should be precisely the same distance from the ends of
the boards. Tighten the screws until they’re snug, but not so tight that the parts won’t pivot easily.
60º 60º
I prefer something a little more precise, saw table that trace the inside edge of
so I use what is known as a parallel rule each rule. The angle formed by the saw
jig. You can make one for yourself very blade and either one of these lines is the
simply by following the illustrations and coving angle.
instructions above. The next step is to determine the
Once your jig is made, raise or lower distance from the lines (and the blade)
the blade to the desired depth of the to position your guide on the saw. The
cove. Next, adjust the parallel rule to the illustration below will help you find this
30º 30º
width of the cove by widening or col- information.
Right Wrong lapsing the rules. Then place the parallel To guide your cut, you can simply
rule on the saw table so the rule straddles clamp a straightedge to the saw table or
the blade, front and back. you can use a coving fence positioned
TRIM TIP: Turn the rules at various angles to the at the proper angle and distance from
blade while slowly spinning the blade the blade, as shown above right. Conve-
Mixing Coves by hand. Find the position where the niently, I’ve included plans for a simple
By combining coves made on your saw and teeth of the saw blade brushes both rules. coving fence at the end of this chapter.
other profiles using a moulding cutterhead Holding the parallel rule in that posi- You now have all the information and
you can create complicated mouldings for
tion, drawer two pencil lines across the parts to cut your cove. The photo above
dozens of projects.
Measure the distance between the

two lines made with the parallel
rule, then draw a third line halfway
between and parallel to them. This Stop line
marks the precise middle of the cove Middle line
cut. Use all three marks as refer-
ences to determine both the angle
and the position of the coving fence
on the saw table. For example, if you
want to cut a cove down the middle
of a 5"-wide board, the fence must
Start line
be parallel to and 21⁄ 2" away from
the middle reference line.
POPULAR WOODWORKING
Fasten the coving fence to the rip fence and
adjust the angle parallel to the three reference
lines. Then move the rip fence sideways until it’s
the proper distance away from the lines. When
the fence is positioned, turn on the saw and
raise the blade.
shows the steps to set up your fence on Cutting Odd-shaped Boards To safely cut an odd-shaped board,
the saw. Remember to place the fence Occasionally, you will need to rip or mount it on a holder that has at least
or straightedge on the infeed side of the crosscut a board that doesn’t have an one good guiding edge. This holder
blade. The rotation of the blade helps edge straight or square enough to hold doesn’t need to be a complex affair; a
hold the stock against the fence. against the rip fence or miter gauge. scrap of plywood with several straight
Adjust the saw blade so it projects Sometimes the board is crooked or edges makes an excellent holder. Nail
no more than 1 ⁄16" above the saw table. warped, other times it’s cut or shaped to the workpiece to the plywood or secure
Turn on the saw and place the workpiece a particular pattern or contour. The best it with double-faced carpet tape. Place
against the fence. Slowly feed the solution would be to straighten one edge the holder against the rip fence or miter
workpiece from the infeed side of the before you cut, but there are times when gauge, and feed both the holder and the
saw and against the direction of rotation. you can’t do this for whatever reason. workpiece past the blade (shown below).
After completing the first pass, raise the
saw blade another 1 ⁄16" and make a sec-
ond pass. Repeat until you have cut the
cove to the desired depth and width. On
the last pass, feed the wood very slowly
– this will make the surface of the cove
as smooth as possible and reduce the
amount of sanding needed.
To cut an odd-shaped piece that

has no guiding edge, secure it
to a rectangular scrap of ply-
wood with nails or double-faced
tape. Place one straight edge
of the plywood against the
rip fence or miter gauge, then
guide the piece over the blade,
cutting both the plywood and
the piece.
popwood.com
TIPS & TRICKS
PRO TIP:
Small Material Safety
Cutout
Shoe
Cutting and machining small parts can be Spacer

one of the biggest challenges a wood-
Whether cutting a straight edge on a round object, or adding a straight groove in the center of an
worker faces. Beading, mullions, muntins
oval piece (as shown here) this sliding table holds the odd-shaped piece in place and references
and small mouldings are difficult to make off the miter slot to ensure a straight cut.
accurately and safely. Small pieces can
bend and twist when meeting a saw blade.
You also can use a sliding table to is secured, fit the jig in the miter-gauge
The usual methods of controlling stock can
hold the piece as shown above. The slot and slide both the jig and workpiece
make it hard to move the parts and add
table itself is simply a piece of medium- forward past the saw blade.
unnecessary labor. density fiberboard or plywood with a This same sled and clamp configu-
The advice of milling large pieces and runner attached that is sized to fit in your ration can help you work with rough-
cutting the small parts from them sounds miter-gauge slot. Secure the piece to the cut log sections, not just flat materials.
sensible, but isn’t always practical, and jig using the built-in, disc-shaped clamps, Simply use longer bolts for the clamps
it’s rarely efficient. You still reach a point letting a portion overhang the sliding and you can cut up to a 3"-thick chunk of
where you’re working with small pieces in table’s edge. wood. You’re only held by the maximum
close proximity to a saw blade. Don’t let the disc-shaped clamps tilt depth of cut of your blade.
Here’s one method I’ve found to keep or tip when you tighten them. If they do,
control of small pieces on the table saw they will put sideways pressure on the Pattern Sawing
while keeping my hands at a safe distance
workpiece and it may shift as you cut. Many woodworking projects require that
To prevent this, place a spacer under the you make duplicate copies of certain
from the blade. Plus, it virtually eliminates
clamp, opposite the workpiece, to keep parts. This is easy enough when the parts
the chance of kickback.
the clamp level. When the workpiece are rectangular – simply rip the stock to
When ripping small stock on the table
saw, a zero-clearance insert is a must.
The other essential is a push block (shown
above) that rides along the table saw
fence. The top of the push block is the
same width as the rip fence, and the two Tall fence
vertical pieces keep it securely held in a extension
straight line. Pattern-sawing guide
On the blade side, the actual shoe is
held on with a couple of screws, so it can
be easily replaced when it gets worn, or
replaced for holding different size material. Guiding edge Template
Rip fence
The cutout in the shoe should be close to Blank
the thickness of the wood to be ripped,
so that the push block doesn’t tilt during
Saw blade
use. A small piece of scrap on top serves
as a handle, keeping my hand well out of Position the pattern-sawing guide so the outside edge is parallel to the saw-blade plate and flush
harm’s way. with the outside edges of the saw teeth. The guiding edge of the jig must be high enough above
the saw so that it will contact the edge of the template, but not the blank.
POPULAR WOODWORKING
the same width, then cut the parts to the Pattern-sawing Guide
same length. But what if the parts are The mount and the braces are made from hard- Brace
cut to a triangle, pentagon or some other wood, but the guide is made from clear acrylic
odd shape? As long as all the sides of that plastic. This lets you see the saw blade and
shape are straight, you can reproduce monitor the saw cuts as you make them. Cut Mount
the parts to size and rout the slots in the mount.
precise copies by pattern sawing.
Fasten the braces to the mount with glue and
To saw a pattern, first cut a single part screws, then attach the guide with screws. Drill
to the shape you want. This will serve mounting holes in the tall fence extension and
as the template for all of your duplicate bolt the jig to the extension.
parts. Then cut rectangular blanks
for the duplicates, making each blank 41⁄2"
Guide
slightly larger than necessary. 11⁄8" (typ) 3⁄4" (typ)
(typ)
Adjust the height of the saw blade
to cut through the thickness of a blank.
Mount a tall fence extension to the rip 43⁄4" 3⁄4" 6"
fence and attach a pattern-sawing guide Exploded view
to the extension. I’ve included plans at
1⁄4"-thick acrylic plastic
right for making a pattern-sawing guide Plan
that will work on nearly any table saw.
Align the outside edge of the guide 24"
7⁄8"
(farthest from the rip fence) with the 41⁄2" 15" 41⁄2" 11⁄2" 1"
outside edges of the saw teeth. Then
adjust the height of the guide so the bot-
tom surface is 1 ⁄4" to 1 ⁄2" above the blade. 4" 53⁄4" 41⁄2"
Fasten the template to a blank with
nails, screws or double-faced carpet 3⁄8"-wd. 7⁄8" 3⁄4"
tape. Holding the edges of the template Profile
slot thru
Brace profile
against the guiding edge of the jig, saw
each side. Repeat for each blank until
you’ve made all the parts you need.
It’s also possible to cut a curve on the
table saw – up to a 3 ⁄4" arc per foot when 5"
cut in 3 ⁄4" stock. Stock thicker than 3 ⁄4" Saw blade
position
isn’t recommended as it’s pushing the
limits of the blade.
You use the same pattern-sawing Variable 15" Variable
guide as used with straight cuts. By keep-
ing the curves shallow, the kerf can’t Tall fence extension layout
bind on the blade because the offset of
the teeth keeps the concave side of the
kerf away from the blade body.
As with the straight cuts, start with
a template affixed to the duplicate
piece. If the offcuts will be too large to
fit between the blade and the rip fence,
trim the offcuts before cutting.
Attach the template to a blank and rest it in

front of the saw blade on the infeed side. Butt
one of the template edges against the guiding
edge of the jig. Turn the saw on and push the
template forward, cutting one edge of the
blank. Turn the template and cut another edge,
repeating until the pattern is cut.
popwood.com
TIPS & TRICKS
Remember, shallow curves are OK, Kerf bending isn’t only for solid wood.
PRO TIP: but if you feel any resistance during the In fact it may even be a more common
Extra Bending Flexibility cut, stop the saw and find another way to practice with plywood. This makes lots
cut your curves. of sense. With the cross-grain orienta-
While the whole idea of kerf bending is tion of the layers in the ply, you can get
avoiding steam, a little hot water can help. Kerf Bending great strength from two thin layers when
If the wood is hard to bend or breaks when Most often when you think of bending you kerf-cut the rest of the layers.
you bend it, soak a towel in boiling water. wood, pictures of steam bending and lots The radius of the curve you want to
Then wrap the kerfed portion of the board of clamps come to mind. Steam bending bend determines the spacing of the kerfs
in the towel and let it sit for 10 to 15 min- is a good way to bend smaller thicknesses – the tighter the radius, the closer the
utes. Unwrap the towel and bend the wood of wood. But when you need to bend a kerfs. To get a smooth, even bend, the
immediately, before it has a chance to cool. 6"-wide apron for a demilune table there’s kerfs must be evenly spaced. Gauge the
a better way than steam bending – it’s spacing of each kerf by driving a small
PRO TIP: called kerf bending. nail into the face of the miter gauge
You can bend a board of any thick- extension and using it as a stop. (See
3D Bending ness and width if you first cut several photo at right.)
Straight kerfs will give you a nice curved kerfs in one side – usually the side you If you happen to need a curved piece
piece of wood. But what if you want to play won’t see on the assembled project. that will be visible from both sides, kerf
a little and twist a piece of wood? Kerf
These kerfs must not sever the board, but cutting still works. After kerfing one
should leave about 1 ⁄16" to 1 ⁄8" of stock at side, a form is used to bend the piece to
bending still works, except rather than
the bottom of each cut. the required shape. Then a layer of thin
cutting kerfs perpendicular to the wood,
The depth of the cut and the thick- material (usually 1 ⁄8" thick) of the same
you’re going to cut them on a diagonal. ness of the stock at the bottom of the species is glued to the kerfed side and
There’s probably math out there to find kerf will depend on the species of wood clamped in place.
exactly the correct angle to set your miter – some must be cut thinner than others This is also a valuable technique if
gauge, but happily, it’s not necessary. to bend easily. Experiment with scraps you are trying to achieve a free-form
Start with a 30° setting, using fairly tight until you can make a smooth, even bend curved piece, rather than attaching the
kerf spacing, about 1 ⁄4" between each without cracks or splinters. Even if you piece to a frame. The glued “veneer”
kerf. When you’ve made your cuts you can cut deeply without cracking or splinter- will serve as a form to hold the planned
carefully twist the spiral to test the flex. ing, you need to be cautious of leaving shape. This is great for making glass-
The math isn’t necessary because you “flats” showing on the curved surface. topped tables and even bookcases.
can usually bend the spiral more or less to
match your required shape. It you do need
a tighter spiral, reset the miter to 45°. Scrap
curve
Radius of
Kerf spacing
Workbench
Calculating kerf spacing
To determine the proper spacing between the kerfs, cut a single kerf in a long scrap board of the
same thickness and species as the wood you want to bend. Fasten the board to a workbench, plac-
ing the clamps to one side of the kerf. Measure along the board out from the kerf and away from
the clamps, and mark a distance equal to the radius of the bend you want to make. Lift the free
end of the board until the kerf closes. Measure the distance from the board to the workbench at
the radius mark – this will give you the spacing. In practice, I’ve found it best to space the kerfs a
little closer than necessary, so the kerfs don’t quite close when you bend the wood. Also, I never
space the kerfs any farther apart than 1". If they’re too far apart, the bend won’t look smooth.
POPULAR WOODWORKING
Cut the kerfs only in the area where require adding a veneer layer to both
you want to bend the wood. After sides of the wood to hide the kerfs, but it
kerfing, carefully bend the wood to can offer a new dimension (or three) to
the radius needed. To prevent it from your woodworking designs. PW
straightening out again, brace it or fasten
it to the project (see photo below).
S-curves also are possible by kerfing
the wood on opposite sides. This could
Fasten an extension to the miter gauge,

positioning it to pass over the blade
when you cut. Cut a single kerf in the
workpiece and through the extension.
Drive a small brad into the extension to
the right or left of the cut (shown above).
The distance between the brad and the cut
must be equal to the spacing between the
remaining kerfs you want to cut. Place the
workpiece against the extension with the
first kerf over the brad. Cut a second kerf,
move the board so the second kerf is over
the brad and repeat.
When you bend the wood, you must fasten

it to something to hold the curve. If you
can’t fasten the board to the project itself,
fasten a brace to the board.
popwood.com
JIG JOURNAL
Coving Fence
his coving fence is easy to position
T accurately and mounts to your rip

fence. It consists of two long assem-
blies, hinged at one end. The mount
assembly remains stationary, while the
face assembly swings out and can be
locked at any angle. Cut the face from
hardwood and the remaining parts from
plywood. Rout the grooves for the braces
and drill the holes required. Cut a recess
and a slot in the mount to hold the arm.
Glue the mount and the mount brace
together to make the mount assembly,
then glue the face, face brace and hinge
block together to make the face assem-
bly. Hinge the two assemblies together
and attach the arm to the face brace
with a carriage bolt, washers and nut.
2"
5 ⁄16" dia. x 41 ⁄ 2" lg.
23⁄8" carriage bolt, washer
& wing nut
281⁄2"
24"
Mount 221⁄2" 3⁄4" wd.
x 3⁄8" dp.
blind groove Arm
3⁄8" dia.
3⁄4" wd. x 3⁄8" dp. holes (typ) 1" radius
groove
3⁄8" dia. x 2" lg.

11⁄2" x 3"
hinge carriage bolt,
1" 1" (typ)
3⁄4" washer & wing nut
11⁄4" 15"
Face
30"
Face
Plan 3⁄4" 31⁄2"
Arm
3⁄4" 43⁄4" Mount

31⁄4"
Elevation 2"
11⁄2"
3⁄4"
1⁄16" slot 3⁄4" Cross
3"
section
15⁄8"
4"
3⁄4"
5⁄16" dia. thru with 3⁄4" dia.

Holes sized and spaced
x 1⁄4" dp. c’bore to fit rip fence
Profile
POPULAR WOODWORKING
learning
Curves
A cambered cutting edge is
essential for fine finishing cuts
with a hand plane – and it has
many other surprising uses.
lane blades that are sharpened straight and
P square are essential in all shoulder and rabbet

planes, and they have other applications such as
when shooting an edge with a bench plane. However, I
have a very strong preference for using cambered edges
in most of my bench planes, most of the time.
There are two powerful arguments for using a slightly
curved blade. The first has to do with perfecting the
square edges of your work. Let us suppose that you are
preparing the edge joints for a tabletop and your pow-
ered jointer’s fence was a few degrees off square and
that you wish to correct the errors of squareness in the
edge of your timber.
I have no magic built-in spirit level, which would
allow me to plane a perfectly square edge with a straight
blade in my plane, and I have no idea how this could be
done. The curved blade is a sophisticated device, which
allows us to take three different kinds of shavings without
having to adjust the lateral-adjustment lever at all.
by David Charlesworth
David is the author of two books and three DVDs that cover many
aspects of hand-tool use and building fine furniture. He teaches
classes in his shop near the coast in Devon, England. For more
information, visit his web site at davidcharlesworth.co.uk.
Photo by Wolfgang Busse
popwood.com 53
casting. I do not use the front knob
at all. The thumb is always posi-
tioned over the center of the edge,
regardless of where the center of
the plane is. I use the surface of
my fingernails as a fence to keep
the plane from wandering about
during the length of the stroke.
The grip on the back handle is
gentle, so that we do not twist the
plane sole out of contact with the
edge. (Editor’s note: You can find
more details of this technique in
Charlesworth’s second book and
second DVD; see the Supplies box
To accurately plane a board’s edge, position your thumb and Use your fingernails as a fence to help maintain the
for details.)
fingers as shown. plane body square to the edge of the board.
Finally, by carefully allowing
the plane to drift from side to side
1. If the plane is centered over hand side of the edge, a tapered shaving will be removed and the towards the high points during the
the edge of the wood, then an shaving will be removed and the right-hand side of the edge then cut you can also correct a twisted
even-thickness shaving will be left-hand side of the edge then will will be lowered. edge. This surely has to be the
removed and no change will be be lowered. In all these positions the plane most cunning plan of all time. Of
made to the angle of the edge. 3. If the center of the plane is is kept completely flat against the course the curved blade needs to
2. If the center of the plane is moved so that it is over the right- edge by firm pressure from the ball be well centered in the plane for
moved so that it is over the left- hand side of the edge, a tapered of the thumb on the plane body all of these techniques and I will

be describing my method later in
this article.
The second powerful argu-
ment for a curved blade is that
you will not leave whiskery tracks
(sometimes called “steps”) from
the corner of the blade when you
plane across a wide surface. The
surfaces you leave will be minutely
scalloped in their width, but the
depth of these depressions is small
indeed and they can be removed
easily by sanding if desired. I will
explain my method for taking a The Eclipse-type side-clamp honing
set of shavings from a surface in a guide (left) has a narrow roller that
Scribe the angles you use most often on a white piece of cardboard, which is allows you to more readily rock the
future article.
most useful for setting a blade in your honing guide. guide when forming a curved edge.
Blade Angles
I like to grind my bench plane correct projection for a blade I of thin plastic is laid along one job. I use strips of plastic from the
blades at 23°, which is a little lower measure the distance the cut- long edge of the #800-grit stone. covers of cheap ring files; we origi-
than tradition suggests. All sharp- ting edge projects from the honing This tilts the blade slightly; and as nally used cardboard, but it did not
ening and shaping is then done at guide and scribe this measurement pull strokes are made, metal will last long. I think precise thickness
33° on a coarse waterstone, such directly onto the top of the blade be removed from the opposite cor- is not important, but something
as an #800- or #1,000-grit stone. so that it’s always available. This ner of the blade. Finger pressure around .012" to .015" will do.
This is 3° steeper than usual. I saves time in the future. It is also is placed over the area of blade If you coat the grinding bevel
then polish the extreme tip of the worth noting that different thick- that is touching the stone. Some with a permanent marker before
narrow bevel on an #8,000-grit ness blades will require slightly woodworkers have told me that starting, you will see that an elon-
waterstone at 35°. different projections to achieve the plastic sleeve that comes with gated triangle of metal has been
Because there is a significant the same honing angle. a cheap 6" ruler is ideal for this removed. It is difficult to specify
difference between the grinding I prefer the Eclipse-type guide how many pull strokes will be
angle and the angle formed on the because it has a narrow roller. Jigs needed. I press fairly hard on
#800-grit stone, very little metal with wide rollers tend to dictate coarse stones and would expect
needs to be removed for either to the user. We need some lateral to achieve a result after about a
sharpening or shaping a blade. tilting to form a curve, and the dozen strokes.
Shaping a curve does require narrow roller is easier to tilt than The plastic is then placed on
more metal removal than normal a wide one. I have an old honing the opposite long edge of the stone
sharpening, but much less than if guide with a barrel shaped roller,
a single bevel were used. indicating that creating curved
blades is not a new idea.
Forming a Curve Expert sharpeners produce
I take a freshly ground blade and a curve on a flat stone by subtly
set it at 33° in an Eclipse-type side- applying more pressure to the
clamping honing guide (see the outer corners of the blade while
Supplies box for information on honing to and fro. I have broken
purchasing one). The information this process down into simpler Plastic
for blade projection cast on the stages so that the beginner can
side of the guide will not mention succeed from the start. I noticed
33° so you will have to experiment that many students were strug-
to find the necessary distance. I gling to start a curve with my old
draw the angles I want on white method, which depended on point
card or melamine-faced scrap. The pressure only. The new technique Place a thin sheet of plastic on your Here is what the corner of your iron
angle is checked by sighting across was developed during a short sharpening stone and apply finger will look like after about a dozen
the blade with the card propped course a couple of years ago. pressure on the opposite corner. This strokes. The shiny narrow triangle is
behind. Once I have found the The idea is that a 5⁄8"-wide strip helps form the curve on your edge. where metal has been removed.
popwood.com 55
and the process is repeated on the
opposite corner of the blade. Try
to produce a symmetrical result.
We now have a blade with three
straight facets, whose shape is an Regularly spaced
approximation of a curve. passes over a board
To judge the shape, I offer the produce a gently
edge up to a piece of flat plastic. I scalloped surface.
Note: Depth The high points can
would expect to see gaps of about
of scallop is be easily sanded flat,
.012" at either outer edge. This is
exaggerated. if desired.
approximately the thickness of a
quality business card.
I now use point pressure about
halfway from the center to the
corner of the blade by stacking my To smooth out the curved edge,
forefingers on top of each other. remove the plastic from the stone
Cambered iron cuts a shaving that is thickest and hone using finger-point pressure
The two positions for this pressure
in its center, tapering to nothing at its edges. at five stations on the iron.
are indicated as positions “4” and
“5” on the diagram below. This
operation is done without the plas- ceeded it will appear as a gentle jig, to raise the blade angle to 35°. into an even smoother curve. It is
tic strip. It’s important that weight symmetrical curve. If it is not, just Four gentle strokes are then made not necessary, but a good exercise
is kept off the jig itself and only take more strokes, with the finger with the finger pressure in each in controlling finger pressure. (It
applied to the blade, near the edge. pressure in the appropriate posi- of the five positions shown in the seems to go better when accom-
The idea is to create new, smaller tion. You will see that I have indi- illustration. This polishes the tip panied by a sound effect, such as a
flats at the meeting points of the cated five possible finger positions of the coarse stone bevel, and is all rising or diminishing hum!)
three previous flats. Fewer strokes for a 23 ⁄8" plane blade. that is required for a razor edge. The wire edge created on the
will be required at these points, When satisfied, clean the Sometimes, mostly for fun, I unbeveled face of the blade is then
possibly six. A certain amount blade and the roller of the guide take a couple of extra strokes on polished off in the usual way, using
of balance and judgment will be to avoid contaminating the super- the polishing stone. During a pull the ruler trick on the #8,000-grit
required here. However we do get fine #8,000 grit stone, which is stroke, I start with finger pressure stone. (For more on this proce-
good feedback from the surface of used next. This stone is prepared on the right, and try to transfer it dure, see “The Ruler Trick” in the
the stones, and it is usually pos- by spraying the surface with a steadily to the left. My forefingers November 2004 issue.) I always
sible to see a track on the surface little water from a plant mister. are on the two outer edges of the dry the blade and coat it with a
where the blade is touching. A Nagura is then rubbed over the blade. If done well, this will draw thin smear of camellia oil, as this
The blade edge and shape can surface to produce a little muddy an elongated X on the surface of protects against rust. The whole
now be examined again against slurry or paste. The blade projec- the stone. This is just a fun way of process is much quicker to do than
the flat plastic. If you have suc- tion is shortened slightly in the trying to smooth those five facets it is to describe.
Honed on #800 grit at 33° Honed on #800 grit at 33°
Finger
positions
23°

Ground at 23°
12 thousandths
of an inch
Start with 3 facets. Blend 5 flats to form a curve.

mouth set very fine, about .004"
wide. (I recommend 1 ⁄ 32 " for
beginners.) This plane is used to
perfect the accuracy and finish
of the surfaces that come from
my machine planer. I do not take
heavy shavings, so the chipbreaker
is set very close to the edge of the
blade. I prepare the front edge of
my chipbreaker, with a slight cam-
ber as well, which allows me to set
it as close as 1 ⁄64" to the blade edge.
The connecting screw needs to be
I like to set my chipbreaker close to tightened very firmly.
To polish the unbeveled side of my plane iron, I use an inexpensive metal the cutting edge for fine planing. When placing the blade and
ruler as shown. The ruler allows you to remove only a small amount of metal Here it is shown 1⁄64" from the edge
quickly and repeatably. chipbreaker assembly into the
of the iron.
plane, I hold the plane in my
left hand with the frog’s surface
horizontal, having brushed away
Different Curves with the stacked finger pressure in Setting up the Plane any loose shavings or dust. This
For Different Work all the remaining four positions I use a No. 51 ⁄ 2 bench plane for prevents the blade from sliding
When planing relatively narrow i.e. halfway to each edge, and just the majority of my work because down the frog and colliding with
edges, say about 1 ⁄2" to 5 ⁄8" thick, inside each edge of the blade. This I like the weight and the length. the front of the throat. This would
I find I need a pronounced curve will maintain the existing curved It is tuned up as a super smoother, blunt the blade before we even
on the blade. shape. If you wish to change the with the sole lapped flat and the get started. It is not a bad idea to
When planing a wide surface shape, more strokes are used in
such as a tabletop, I use less curve. the appropriate positions.
The gaps seen at the edges of the After cleaning the tool and
blade, when it is offered up to a roller of the honing guide, adjust
flat surface might be around .006", the projection to give 35°, and do
roughly half as much as you would four gentle polishing strokes on
employ for edge planing. If you the superfine stone in all the finger
have a very shallow curve in your positions. Polish the wire edge off
blade, the plane would need mov- using the ruler trick.
ing a very long way to the right or With each sharpening, it will
left, to have any squaring effect take more strokes to produce a wire
at all. When the plane is moved edge. This is because the #800-grit
this far off center, it can be quite bevel gets wider with each sharp-
difficult to keep it balanced flat ening, and you are honing a larger
on the narrow edge. area of steel. After about seven
sharpenings, I regrind the blade
Resharpening and start the cycle again.
A Curved Blade When grinding, I never go
When the blade dulls, it is likely right to the edge of the blade. A
to be worst in the center. I set it in small sliver of the #800-grit bevel
the jig at 33° and go to the #800- is left at the tip, as this contains
grit stone. Using point finger pres- the shape that we have worked so
sure in the center, I find how many hard to produce. Grinding right
strokes it takes to produce a min- to the edge shortens the life of a
ute wire edge. The small wire edge plane blade, and it’s not neces-
is a signal that enough metal has sary unless you have a large chip
been removed to get past the wear in the cutting edge. Sharpening When reinstalling the iron, I recommend holding the plane so the frog is level
on the blade. The same number a recently ground blade takes me to the floor. This prevents the freshly sharpened iron from slipping down the
of pull strokes are then performed about four minutes. frog and striking the plane’s body, perhaps ruining your edge.
popwood.com 57
When setting a balanced shaving, the protruding
SUPPLIES curved blade is centered relative to plane body.
Side-clamp honing guides are X" X"
available from most woodwork-
ing catalogs, including:
Woodcraft
800-225-1153 or woodcraft.com
Lee Valley Tools
800-871-8158 or leevalley.com
Tools for Working Wood
800-426-4613 or This setting is balanced, i.e. centered. This setting is unbalanced, i.e. off center.
toolsforworkingwood.com This is the view we get when sighting against illuminated paper.
David Charlesworth’s three
DVDs on sharpening, planing retract the blade adjuster wheel The lever cap is now installed, and blade. You will encounter a phe-
and shooting boards are avail- by a couple of turns, too. everything held firm with my left- nomenon called backlash when
able for $25 each or the set for It is easy to see that when the hand thumb, while the lever cam you change from retracting the
$70. His two books, “Furniture-
blade-adjustment dog is engaging is closed. I now advance the blade blade to advancing it. The wheel
Making Techniques” Vol. I and II
the slot in the chipbreaker, but with the wheel, watching from the will turn freely for a while before
are $18 each.
care is needed to ensure that the top, to see that the blade edge is you feel resistance. The blade will
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks lateral adjusting disc is engaged in not crooked enough to bang into not advance at all while this hap-
800-327-2520 or lie-nielsen.com the plane’s blade slot. I wiggle the the front edge of the throat. pens. Once resistance is felt, the
lateral lever a few times to see that blade will begin to move. This
Prices correct at time of publication. it is so, and try to set the lever in Setting the Plane for a “dead spot” is caused by play
approximately the right position. Fine Finishing Shaving in the adjustment mechanism.
The plane heel is now placed on a It can be as much as two whole
sheet of well-lit white paper on the turns on an old worn plane. Less
A sheet of paper
bench. Lighting the blade is not backlash signifies a high qual-
below your plane
allows you to helpful. I hold the front knob with ity mechanism. All mechanical
easily sight the my left hand and sight down the systems have some, and as long
blade as you sole. The right hand is available to as you always set the blade while
position it later- advance the blade and adjust the advancing the blade’s projection,
ally in the mouth lateral lever. Start with enough it will not trouble you. Conversely,
of the plane. blade projection so that you can if you set the proper projection
see it clearly, and adjust the lat- while retracting the blade, you are
eral lever for a “balanced shaving.” likely to lose all blade projection
The projecting blade will appear as the blade works its way back
as a black shape against the white into the body.
background. I now retract the When winding the blade out,
blade, just until nothing shows. I turn the wheel as little as “three
minutes on the clock,” – that’s an
A Setting Trick old-fashioned analog clock! – at
The setting can be confirmed a time. We only want a few thou-
with a small piece of thin wood. sandths of an inch projection for
I use a close-grained hardwood, fine work, and it is easy to go too
about 1 ⁄ 16" thick, by 1" wide, by far, and then you have to start the
11 ⁄ 2" long. The long edge is held whole process again.
firmly down to the front sole and This is where the setting shim
moved backwards over the throat, is so useful. You can judge shav-
as if trying to take a shaving off its ing thickness by feel. You can also
whole length. confirm that the blade projection
I now advance the blade, is well balanced.
very slowly, until the shim is just To do this, rub the long edge
shaved by the center of the curved of the shim to and fro, as if tak-

NEW DIAMOND STONES DESIGNED FOR CREATING
A CURVED CUTTING EDGE QUICKLY
Achieving a perfectly curved and polished cutting Powell says you can reduce the curvature of the
edge on your plane irons is an essential skill that iron on the plate by skewing the iron slightly as you
many new hand plane users struggle with. Getting sharpen. I’ve also found you can increase the curva-
the right amount of curvature in the right place on ture by using finger pressure on the corners as you
the iron takes a fair amount of practice, patience and sharpen the iron on the plates.
an observant eye. Also note that even the finest version of this
Eventually, it is a skill that becomes second stone (#9 micron) isn’t fine enough to polish a plane
This small block of wood is invalu- nature. And David Charlesworth’s methods outlined iron’s edge – you’ll still need to finish up the edge
able for determining if the iron in this article will give you a tremendous leg up in on your polishing stone. There are two ways to go
is positioned in the center of the acquiring this skill. As with everything in wood- about this. You can use finger-point pressure as
mouth of the plane. working, of course, there are several ways to get described in this article, which works very well in my
the same result. A new type of diamond stone is just experience. Or you can dress your polishing stone
now becoming available that sharpens a perfectly so it also has the same concavity as the diamond
ing full-length shavings from its
curved edge the first time you use it. I’ve sharpened stones. Powell is making a convex diamond stone
edge. Start at the outer edge of
about 25 plane irons with the product and am quite that will dress conventional sharpening stones
the throat and progress towards impressed with the results it gives. expressly for this purpose. This dressing stone was
the center of the plane, and you The Odate Crowning Plate was developed by not available at press time so we were unable to use
will be able to hear, feel and see woodworker and author Toshio Odate, and David it in our trials.
exactly where the curved blade Powell, the founder of Diamond Machining Technol- The bottom line is this: Veteran sharpeners prob-
edge first protrudes. With luck a ogy Inc. (DMT). In essence, the stone is a 31⁄4" x ably won’t need these stones (though I find they
small shaving will stay wrapped 71⁄4" piece of cast iron that has been machined so help me achieve consistency even when I’m having a
round the blade. Now repeat from it has a slight and consistent concavity across its bad day). But if you struggle with achieving a curved
the other edge of the throat. This width. Then it is plated with diamond particles – it iron, the Odate Crowning Plate will fix your problem
will confirm whether the curved is available with #60, #45, #30 and #9 micron grits. immediately and perfectly.
The amount of concavity corresponds to a slight The stones are about $100 each. If you wish to
blade is well centered in the plane.
371⁄2' radius. In more technical terms, the chord to purchase only one, I recommend the #30-micron
Some woodworkers perfect the
arc height on a 3" width is .0025". stone, which shapes the edge quickly and takes you
final lateral adjustments by tap- In practical terms, I’ve found the stones produce to the point where you can refine the edge with a
ping the top of the blade with a an edge that’s just slightly more curved than what #1,000-grit stone and then your polishing stone.
small hammer. This may be easier I achieve using finger pressure on a flat stone. This The stones are available from Powell Manufac-
than trying to make minuscule actually makes setting the curve in the center of the turing Co., 396 Washington St. #114, Wellesley,
adjustments to the lateral lever. plane’s mouth easier, though it reduces the width of Mass. 02481 or 781-237-4876.
I don’t worry if the balancing shaving you will make. — Christopher Schwarz
is not perfect, as long as I know
where the blade is! My final move The Odate
is to take test shavings off the edge Crowning Plate
of a practice board. These can be allows you to
measured with dial calipers to achieve a curved
edge on your
assess their thickness.
plane iron with
about a dozen
Suitable Shaving Thickness strokes without
For final finishing of difficult hard- varying your
wood I take a .001"-thick shaving. finger-point
For general cleaning of a machined pressure.
board, I take a .002" shaving. In
hardwood it is difficult to push a
plane that is cutting much more
than .004" to .006".
I do hope that this article helps
you to get the most out of your
bench planes. They are one of
the most wonderful, versatile and
accurate tools in your kit. PW
popwood.com 59
Leaning
Shelves
I
t was about 1 a.m., and I was at the grocery on
a bleary-eyed run to buy orange juice for the
family’s breakfast. The only other shopper that
hour was a woman tooling through the frozen food
aisle. Perched atop her mound of food was a box that
contained the disassembled parts to some shelves
much like these.
At that moment it became official; these shelves
are now everywhere – even among the pork rinds
and toaster pastries at the corner store.
And so this begs a question: Why would we tackle
such a ubiquitous design for the magazine?
Simple. We can make them better than the stuff
at the store.
Many of the so-called leaning shelf designs I’ve
examined have flaws. Some rack unacceptably. Some
use a lot of extra material to become sturdy. Many
have top shelves that are too narrow (3" in some
Photo by Al Parrish; special thanks to Longworth Hall, Cincinnati
cases). Others have lower shelves that cantilever

too much out the back.
It was time to fire up the CAD software and start
drafting.
After numerous experiments and revisions, I
discovered that these shelves actually are more of an
engineering equation than a woodworking project.
We improve a contemporary The leaning angle and the height of the units work
design to make it sturdier, a bit by Christopher Schwarz

Comments or questions? Contact Chris at 513-531-2690
curvier and easier to build. ext. 1407 or [email protected].
popwood.com 61
together to determine the depth Begin Construction
of the shelves. Getting these fac- I always like to begin a project
$ " " tors to work together to produce that uses plywood by first break-

" sensible shelving is trickier than ing the 4' x 8' sheets into smaller
# $
# it first appears. So take care if you sizes – plywood takes up a lot of
# want to modify this design – small room in small shops.
& alterations make big differences. Using the cutting diagram at
%
I also sought to squeeze out the left you first want to crosscut the
' maximum amount of shelf space full sheet into three equal-sized
& %
from the minimum amount of pieces that are 313 ⁄4" long. These
material. After additional work in are a bit oversized so you can
Cutting diagram CAD, I squeezed it down to this: trim them down on your saw and
To build two shelf units and one remove the factory edges from the
desk unit, you’ll need to buy: plywood. Then you can easily rip
• One sheet of 3 ⁄4" plywood the shelves to their finished widths
• Six 8' 2 x 4s using the diagram as a guide.
• 35 linear feet of 1 x 4s Now you need to work on the
• 70' of edge tape uprights. Dress your stock as true
For this investment in mate- as possible and then cut it to its
rial, you’ll get 30 linear feet of finished length.
shelving and a desk – not bad. Now lay out the locations of all
C on st r uction i s simpler the dados on the uprights. Because
than any bookcase I’ve built. these dados are cut at a 7° angle I
The shelves rest in dados in the recommend you mark out every
uprights. The uprights are pre- joint to avoid a blunder.
vented from racking by braces Now you should make a few
that are pocket-screwed into the test dados in a scrap piece to find
shelves and uprights. There’s no the best bit for the job. Plywood
back, no top and no bottom. varies in thickness from sheet to
It was so simple, in fact, that I sheet. And straight bits designed
decided to add some visual inter- for plywood come in slightly dif-
Take care when cutting your plywood because every kerf counts. Shown is est by cutting curves on the braces ferent diameters, too. Your best
my stack of finished shelves. That little pile on top of the shelves is the waste
and front edges of the shelves. bet is to mill a 3 ⁄ 4" x 3 ⁄ 4" dado in
that was left from an entire sheet of plywood.
a scrap and see how the plywood
shelves fit into it.
Different Diagonal Dados

You need to make two router jigs
to cut the angled dados in the
uprights – one for the left-hand
uprights and one for the right-
hand. I know that it seems like
you should be able to make just
one jig and flip it around, but the
geometry doesn’t work that way.
I like dado jigs that capture the
router’s base on both sides. This
ensures the router won’t wander,
and it allows me to make the occa-
sional climb cut without the tool
Cutting 85"-long pieces all to the same size is impossible We’ve acquired a few straight bits throughout the years.
on most table saws. So I gang-cut the pieces on my miter After testing a few I found that the Woodline plywood bit jerking severely.
saw. Clamp your mating uprights together and cross- cuts a dado that was closest in size (.714" wide) to the Also note that a router with
cut them simultaneously. This way if they’re a little off, particular sheet of plywood I bought. (Woodline: 800- flat edges on its base will make
they’ll still match. 472-6950 or woodline.com; item# wl-1028-1, $9). your dado locations more accu-

To build a dado jig, draw a 7° angle on your scrap and
then build the jig around that line and your router’s base- I’m sure that some of you will figure out a way to do this on the table saw, but the band saw is far
plate using scraps, glue and nails. quicker for me. A roller stand holds the bottom end up while I make the cut at the top end.
rate. With some round-base rout- rabbet on the outside corner of necessary at first and trim them should make two routing tem-
ers, the bit isn’t always in the dead each upright – this adds a shadow to fit the assembled unit. plates to ensure the curves are
center of the baseplate. line and gives you a bit of forgive- The first step on the braces is consistent – one template is for
Clamp the jig to an upright and ness when lining these units up to cut a 7° bevel on one long edge the shelves and the other template
your workbench, and rout all the against your wall. Now sand or of each part. To accomplish this, is for the braces.
dados – I like to use three passes plane your uprights to prepare I beveled the blade of my table saw I make both templates from
(increasing depth) to keep from them for finishing. to 7° and ripped one long edge of one piece of plywood because the
taxing the router or the bit. a spare brace. I then placed it up curves are the same radius – one
Shelves and Braces against an upright to make sure is an inside curve and the other
Matching Angles Because the braces need to fit the geometry worked. is an outside curve.
With the dados routed, you can tightly between the uprights, I cut If you’re going to add a curve Once you’ve created the two
now cut the angles that allow the them each about 1 ⁄2" longer than to your braces and shelves, you curved templates, I recommend
shelves to tip back against your
wall. Set your miter saw to make
a 7° miter. Clamp two mating
uprights together and trim the
feet simultaneously.
Now you need to cut the long
miter on the top of the uprights.
The best way to do this is mark
your cut line, cut it close on the
band saw and clean up the cut
with a hand plane.
Marking out this angle looks
like a challenge, but we have made
it easy for you. At the top of the
upright, make a mark halfway
across the width of the upright at
13 ⁄ 4". Now make a second mark.
This one should be where the
bottom edge of the top shelf hits
the back edge of the upright. Join I used poplar for my uprights, which is easy to plane.
those two marks with a line. With the angle cut, clamp two mating uprights together After removing any bow with my jointer plane, a pass
Finish up your work on the and plane down to your line. The longer the plane the or two with a smoothing plane is all this forgiving wood
uprights by routing a 1 ⁄ 4" x 1 ⁄ 4" straighter your surface will be. needs to be ready to finish.
popwood.com 63
7° bevel
Scraps
position
Nail brace
Template
To make the two templates, bend a flexible scrap

between two nails as shown. Bend the scrap 11⁄2", When routing the braces, you might have to climb
With the 7° bevel cut on one edge of a brace, hold it in place and trace a line on both sides of the cut some sections because the grain is likely to
check it against an upright. You’ve hit the right scrap. Now you’ve marked lines for both the inside reverse on you in the curve. If you take a light cut
angle when the brace fits in perfectly where the and outside curves. Band saw between these lines and hold the tool securely, this is a generally safe
dado meets the back edge of the upright. and clean up the sawn edge of the two templates. operation. But do take care.
you nail some scraps to the tem- cutting router bit. Now you want to Odd Assembly Once you get the unit to this
plate that will position your braces add edge tape to the front and sides To fit the braces, you should point, you can put a couple clamps
and shelves exactly where you of the plywood shelves. I quite like assemble each unit, clamp them on it, and adjust the shelves and
want them on the template for the Fastedge edgebanding from up and then trim the braces to fit uprights so everything is where it
routing. This will save you time. FastCap. It’s peel-and-stick stuff, snugly between the uprights. is supposed to be and is square.
Before you break out the which makes it especially suited Assembling this project was a Now fit the braces between
router, however, use the templates for curves. And it’s available in a head-scratcher at first. The best the uprights by trimming them
to mark the curves on your braces wide variety of sizes, lengths and method was to clamp the top of to length on your miter saw. With
and shelves, and then cut close to species. For a dealer in your area, one upright to my bench with its all the braces fit, drill pocket-screw
this line using your band saw. visit fastcap.com or call 888-443- foot stuck in the air. I then inserted holes on the back of each brace.
Then rout the curve on the 3748. Expect to spend about $22 the shelves into their dados and I put two screws into each
braces and shelves using a pattern- or so for a 50' roll. added the second upright. upright and three into each shelf.
Iron-on edgebanding is a pain on outside curves (it’s

even worse on inside curves). The peel-and-stick tape
shown here from FastCap cut my edgebanding time for Once you get all the shelves where you want them, mark where the uprights intersect the shelves
this job in half. I was impressed. on the underside of each shelf. This will help you reassemble each unit.

This created an assembled unit To ensure the shelves stayed in
that resisted racking and could place on hardwood floors I screwed
endure some heavy books. a couple rubber feet to the bot-
Screw everything together and tom of each upright. To ensure the
then mark on the backside the desk unit was completely stable, I
location of each part so you can anchored it to the wall with a #10
easily reassemble after finishing. screw and a metal “L” bracket.
Get your shelves and braces To be sure, all this effort is more
ready to finish by sanding or hand work than driving to the grocery
planing them. (Yup – I plane ply- store to buy a commercial unit.
wood all the time.) Break all the But I take comfort that these are
edges with sandpaper. sturdy enough to last a good long
To finish the shelves, I first time. I wouldn’t be too surprised
painted the uprights and braces to run into that same lady in the
with a black paint – two coats middle of the night as I’m buy- This project is where pocket screws really shine. Whenever you’re working at
did the trick. Then I sprayed on ing doughnuts and she’s buying a an odd angle or near edges like this, a pocket screw can be your best bet. The
a semi-gloss lacquer topcoat and shelving unit to replace the first other reason I chose them is because I wanted to finish the parts separately
sanded between coats. one that got too wobbly. PW and assemble the project on-site.

LEANING SHELVES
NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL
T W L

Desk Unit
❏ 2 Uprights 11⁄ 2 31⁄ 2 85 Poplar
❏ 3 Braces 3⁄4 3 30 Poplar
❏ 1 Desktop 3⁄4 191⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 81⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood

❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 61⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood

Shelf Unit
❏ 2 Uprights 11⁄ 2 31⁄ 2 85 Poplar
❏ 5 Braces 3⁄4 3 30 Poplar
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 141⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 121⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 101⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 81⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood
❏ 1 Shelf 3⁄4 61⁄ 2 311⁄ 2 Plywood

UZQ

¡

Shelf plan (shelves)

¡

Brace elevation Brace profile Shelf profile Desk profile
popwood.com 65
A WOODWORKING
MITER
SAW
Turn a contractor’s tool into a precision woodworking machine.
don’t know of too many woodworking shops, whether work and is usually undersized, a challenge to align and
I home or professional, that don’t have a miter saw as

part of their equipment. A miter saw is a fine alterna-
tive to a radial-arm saw or circular saw for rough-cutting
allows considerable tear-out at the back of a cut. While
some saws have tables that address the tear-out problem
below the board with zero-clearance throat plates, that
lumber. It’s also an accurate alternative to the table saw doesn’t address the fence that allows for tear-out.
for crosscutting and squaring solid lumber. Then there’s the question of stops. Often the work
My problem with a miter saw is that it’s a job-site tool on a miter saw requires cutting a number of pieces the
that’s been put to work in woodworking shops. Because same length. Some manufacturers have made a nod-
of that, it has some – let’s not call them deficiencies ding acknowledgement of this need and added a fairly
– eccentricities that aren’t the best for woodworking. basic stop. But again, it falls short of the precision we’d
prefer for woodworking.
Miter Saw Eccentricities There are dozens of plans for building carts and sup-
Because the miter saw was designed for portability, its port stands for miter saws that address these issues. We’ve
table isn’t very large and so it lacks adequate support designed and built some ourselves. But the problem with
for many woodworking activities. The fence and table these accessories is that they can cost as much, if not
capacity is actually too short to conveniently trim a more, than the saw itself.
table leg to length, let alone support a standard-length So we’ve come up with an add-on for your saw that
piece of rough lumber. will easily and affordably take your job-site saw into the
The fence on a miter saw is designed for carpentry workshop with capacity and precision.
by David Thiel
Comments or questions? Contact David at 513-531-2690 ext. 1255
or [email protected]

Photo by Al Parrish
The Right Saw crosscut capacity with a 12", but it’s
Before we dive into the upgrade, up to you to decide if the expense
let’s take a moment to consider is warranted.

the saw itself. Another feature to consider is
YSBCCFU Woodworkers are tool addicts. the type of fence on the miter saw.

CPUITJEFT If one cordless drill is good, three In our opinion the easiest fence
must be better. So when it comes to to adjust is a split-fence design,
miter saws, what we all really want meaning the two fences can be
is a sliding compound miter saw. independently adjusted. Many
Is that tool’s 12" crosscut capacity miter saws have a single casting
worth $500? Not all that often. incorporating both fences. If the
Y
But in the interest of satisfying the casting is out of parallel you pretty
HSPPWF
more-is-better desire in all of us, much need to bend the casting
we suggest a 12" compound miter (which isn’t all that easy) to align
saw (around $300), rather than a the fences to 90° to the blade.

10" (usually less than $200). You
can usually gain an extra inch in
Stop elevation
Stop profile cYcHSPPWF
c
3JHIUGFODF
.JEGFODF
4UPQBTTFNCMZ 3JHIUCFE
5USBDL
4FMGBEIFTJWFTBOEQBQFS
-FGUGFODF
.JECFET
-FGUCFE
WOODWORKING MITER FENCE

NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL COMMENTS
T W L
❏ 1 Left bed 3⁄4 5 29 Solid ROE

❏ 1 Right bed 3⁄4 5 12 Solid ROE
❏ 2 Mid beds 3⁄4 5 7 Solid ROE
❏ 1 Right fence 3⁄4 31⁄4 181⁄4 Solid BOE
Exploded view ❏ 1 Left fence 3⁄4 23⁄4 311⁄4 Solid ROE
❏ 1 Mid fence 3⁄4 31⁄4 43⁄4 Solid BROE
❏ 2 Stop sides 3 ⁄8 11⁄4 31⁄8 Baltic ply
❏ 1 Stop center 3⁄4 11⁄8 2 Solid
❏ 1 Stop guide 3⁄4 1 2 Solid
ROE: Rabbet one end; BOE: bevel one end; BROE: bevel/rabbet on ends

If you already have a saw with a plane) your own lumber for these The fence pieces (right and This way the material thickness
single fence casting, by adding our parts to ensure that the pieces will mid inserts) are 31 ⁄4" wide (high), and the half-lap joints will be eas-
complete fence and bed system to be straight and square. with the left fence measuring 23 ⁄4" ily interchangeable.
your saw you’ll be able to shim to The bed pieces (left, right and wide to allow space for the 1 ⁄2"-tall I suggest using a stable, tight-
align everything perfectly. mid inserts) are 5"-wide. You may T-track. These dimensions also grained wood for your upgrade sys-
be tempted to make them wider to should be checked against your tem. Maple or ash (my selection
Why Our System is Better support a wider board (as I was), miter saw to make sure the blade here) works well.
The woodworkers on our staff but you’ll find that the bed will guard will clear the fence height After milling the pieces, head
gathered together in the shop to quickly obscure the miter scale when beveled to a 45° cut. to the router table and insert a 1 ⁄2"-
stare at our miter saw and decide mounted on the saw. Test the To benefit from the replaceable diameter straight bit. You need to
what we’d change. We came up board width on your saw to see mid-insert pieces it makes sense to cut rabbets to form the half-lap
with these upgrades: what width you can get away with. run extra material for more than joints on the left, right and mid-
• An auxiliary table that would You may need a narrower bed, or a couple of sets at the same time bed pieces, as well as the left and
support at least a 30"-long piece of you may be able to go wider. you’re running the main pieces. mid-fence pieces.
wood and provide a zero-clearance
cut at the blade to reduce tear-out
at both exit points.
• A fence that would provide ade-
quate height and a zero-clearance
cut at the blade.
• Both the fence and table need to
be able to be “renewed” after cut-
ting at a miter or bevel to maintain
the zero-clearance capability.
• A stop system that could quickly
move out of the way and that
would function along the length
of that 30" table.
• The system had to be inexpen-
A simple 3 ⁄4"-wide rabbet is the secret to the mating
sive, leave the saw portable and be half-lap joints. After determining the exact center of the The second and final pass is made to complete the rab-
able to adapt to any miter saw. board thickness, a 1⁄2" straight bit is set to cut to that bet. Repeat both steps on each mating piece. Note the
We managed to come up with a height. The fence is set for the final width of the rabbet, sandpaper on the miter gauge fence to keep the piece
system that meets all our expecta- but the first pass is made at the edge of the board. from moving during the cuts.
tions: The hardware comes in at
less than $30 and lumber should A replaceable
run another $20 (or less if you mid fence is
use shop scraps); by screwing shown notched,
half-lapped replaceable sections grooved and
mitered in front
to the fence and bed, zero clear-
of the already
ance can be maintained indefi- attached mid
nitely; by mounting the longer bed fence. Making
and fence (35" capacity) to the left multiple copies
of the blade only (the side where when making the
most woodworkers cut from) the first will ensure
overall size and weight was held Notch in mid fence you’ll always
for T-track have a miter saw
to a minimum. And the system
ready to run.
screws to the existing fence of your
saw so it’s virtually universal.
Mill Your Own Wood!

Start upgrading your miter saw
by first milling the lumber for the
fences and beds. And I do mean
milling. You need to mill (joint and
popwood.com 69
Dust Removal I was able to locate the attach-
I would like to tell you we also ment point on the miter saw fence
came up with a great way to make exactly, using the blade to orient
your miter saw dust free, but we the fences.
didn’t get that lucky. But we did Lastly, I notched out the top
come up with a way to keep dust edge of the mid fence 3 ⁄4" to allow
from building up and making your the T-track to cross over the mid
cuts inaccurate. fence as shown on the previous
By adding an 1 ⁄8" x 1 ⁄8" groove page. This makes it possible to
Masking tape
to the fence faces just above the adjust the fence stop to within 3"
bed height, we created a channel of the blade. Any closer than that
that doesn’t allow dust to build up and you’ll trim the T-track when-
in the corner formed by the bed ever you make a bevel cut.
and fence. Sure, you’ll still have
to blow the dust away every now Half-lap Assembly
and again, but this groove will It may seem simple enough to
With the fence/bed assemblies ready to attach to the saw, check to confirm
help. Make these grooving cuts quickly screw the mid sections to
that they will sit square when attached. Our right fence was out of square
on the table saw with a standard the bed and fence pieces, but accu- slightly and required shimming. We used strips of masking tape attached to
ripping blade. racy here will make replacement the fence face to achieve a square fit.
To create the zero-clearance easier down the road.
fence opening, you may choose Carefully mark the screw loca- To assemble the pieces, I rec- Next, pilot drill and counter-
to miter the inside corners of your tions on both of the bed pieces and ommend using a clamp to draw sink the fence pieces to attach
fence after the fences are attached. on the left fence. It’s important the pieces together tightly dur- them to the assembled bed pieces
I chose to make those cuts prior to catch the center of the rabbet ing screwing. Pilot drill and coun- through the back of the fences.
to attaching. I still used my miter width, so locate the screw holes tersink the holes for the #6 x 5 ⁄8" Make sure at least one of the
saw, but by cutting the miters first, 3 ⁄ 8" in from the half-lap tongue. flathead screws. screws connects the mid-fence
and mid-bed sections to keep
these pieces stable.
Mounting to the Saw

With the bed and fence pieces
screwed together, it’s time to
mount the assemblies to your
miter saw. Every miter saw will
have different hole locations on
the saw fence for attaching auxil-
iary fences. Some saws may have
none at all. You’ll need to deter-
mine if you need to drill new (or
maybe extra) holes in your exist-
ing fences to adequately attach
the upgrade assembly.
You’ll also need to use a good
square to check the angle of the
fences on your saw, and make sure
the beds and fences align evenly
when attached to the saw.
One more step, then it’s time
to move on to the stop. We could
have added a hold-down to keep
material tightly against the fence.
Instead we opted for a more low-
Accurately screwing the mating half-lap pieces together requires clamping the pieces together. Countersunk pilot tech solution that still does a
holes and flathead screws complete the assembly. good job. We added a strip of self-

adhesive sandpaper to the fence
faces. You need to add it to the left,
right and mid-fence to make sure
the fences remain evenly aligned.
A little trimming will be required,
but a utility knife will make quick
work of this step.
T-track and Stop

Your next step is mounting the
T-track to the left fence. Cut the
track to length using a hacksaw,
then pre-drill and countersink the
holes in the center of the track,
paying attention to where on the
fence the screws will attach. Take
To cut the rabbets for the stop guide, I used the table saw. Set the depth and fence location to allow the guide to run
care to avoid the half-lap joint.
snugly in the T-track. The depth of the tongue shouldn’t be below the T-track lip, or the bolt won’t pull the guide tight.
The stop itself is fairly simple,
but you’ll need to do some fine-
tuning as you assemble and attach down through the center of the fit against the fence face. Then
the pieces. Start by cutting the block for the bolt to attach to the carefully mark and drill pilot holes SUPPLIES
two stop sides from 3 ⁄8"-thick Bal- cam clamp. Then mount the cam in the guide block and attach Rockler Woodworking
tic birch plywood. Then notch clamp and adjust the hold to snug the stop to the guide with two 800-279-4441 or rockler.com
the two sides at the same time the stop guide to the T-track. roundhead screws.
1 • cam clamp, 5 ⁄16"
(held together with double-sided The next part is the fine-tun- The stop should now easily #58252, $6.49 each
tape) on the band saw to leave the ing area. The stop itself needs to swing up and out of the way of
1 • T-slot bolt, 5 ⁄16" x 11⁄2"
mounting tongue. be attached to the stop guide so the fence face, or fit flat against
#83311, $.99 each
Next, find a piece of 3 ⁄4"-thick that it will drop flat against the the fence for repeat cuts.
solid wood that’s about 21 ⁄2"-wide fence face. Drill the screw clear- You’re now ready to do pre- 1 • aluminum T-track, 36"
#21746, $10.99 each
and about 10" long. Take your fall- ance holes in the stop sides, cen- cise woodworking on a miter saw.
off piece from your T-track and tering the hole in each tab. As you Store your extra mid-insert pieces 1 • right-to-left adhesive rule
head to the table saw. By adjust- drill the hole, put a block of wood somewhere safe and don’t hesitate #69124, $4.99 each
ing the fence location and blade behind the tab to avoid tear-out to change them out to maintain 1 • profile PSA rolls (#220 grit)
height, cut two rabbets on the bot- as the bit comes through. that perfect zero-clearance cut #67178, $5.99 each (store
tom of the piece to match the slot Place the stop in position – something your out-of-the-box sales only)
in the T-track. against the guide and check the saw couldn’t achieve. PW Prices correct at time of publication.
Now crosscut a 2" length from

the piece and then head to the
band saw to rip the block to the
final 1"-wide stop guide and 2"-
wide stop center. If you wish, make
a second set of blocks for later use,
while you’re at it.
Assembling the stop block is
best handled on the fence itself.
Before assembly, add an adhe-
sive-backed tape measure (read-
ing from right-to-left) to the front
face of the T-track. You’ll need to
trim about the first 4" from the
tape for it to align correctly with
the saw blade.
Next, check the fit of your The flip stop is a simple design that allows the stop to clear the fence for rough cutting, then drop accurately into place
stop guide block, then drill a hole for precise, repeat cuts. The self-adhesive measuring tape added to the T-track ensures accuracy.
popwood.com 71
$ Router
5 If you can’t afford a vintage or new one, build your own using
a block of wood, an Allen wrench and a thumbscrew.
ere is a real-life shop problem: The proj- save money I chose to build mine using a common,
H ect calls for a shallow slot, or dado, in the

middle of a board. Defining the edges
using a wide chisel is a first step. But determining
historical wood shape. If you prefer to purchase one
instead, E.C. Emmerich (E.C.E.), the same firm that
makes the line of Primus planes, sells router planes
the best way to remove the waste is a challenge. with a wood body. The 20-S comes with three cutters
The chisel could do it, although gauging the depth (call 800-724-7758 or visit ecemmerich.com).
accurately would take patience. Using my electric One colloquial name for this tool is “Granny
router would solve that problem, yet experience tells Tooth” plane. It is not at all hard to use. Adjust it
me that freehand use of this power tool can lead to to depth and use it in a series of short, choppy push
stray excursions into surrounding margins. So fence strokes. Just as with power routers, your applica-
guides would need to be set. tion may call for more than one setting to achieve
This situation calls for a router plane. An uncom- the desired depth. In any event, define the edges
mon plane that looks different, it most often elicits of the dado with a wide chisel. I find it helps to use
the question, “What does it do?” Now you know – it the chisel to remove a little waste at the end of the
levels dados and hinge gains. Its right-angle blade will slot so that my final strokes with the router do not
allow you to make a flat cut of an accurate depth. split out wood beyond the desired end. Use it once
and you will be convinced of the utility of this odd-
Router Plane History & Use looking plane. Make your own and you have the
Router planes have been made with metal bodies added satisfaction of toolmaking as well as tool use,
by Stanley and other manufacturers for more than something that was very much part of becoming a
100 years. You can find examples in tool catalogs or woodworker in times past.
flea markets today. Like other planes,
E.C.E. cutter earlier router planes were made Collecting Your Materials
with a wood body to hold When I set out to make my plane, the challenge
the right-angle cutter. To was to make the right-angle cutter and the specialty
Shop-made cutter holder to attach it to the wood body. Both these
parts were special forgings and castings, processes
not familiar to me. The solution to the right-angle
Record cutter cutter is adapting a 5 ⁄16" Allen wrench. The holder
is made from a 3 ⁄8" malleable iron thumbscrew with
a washer and a wing nut. The beauty of this is that
Shown here they are available from Reid Supply Co. by mail and
are three
Step photos by the author
the parts cost less than $5.

router planes: my
shop-made version (left),
by John Wilson
an E.C.Emmerich (middle)
and a Record No. 71, each John currently operates The Home Shop in Charlotte,
with their cutter. Michigan, where he teaches classes and sells Shaker box supplies.

Plane
Start by ordering the hardware.
I suggest buying two sets to
make the most of shipping
costs. Plus an extra part gives
you a backup in case you make
a mistake, or it allows you to
build a second plane if you
don’t. Also, order a slim file
for the hexagonal hole.
The wood for the plane
body is made from any of a vari-
ety of hardwood. You
need a piece 11 ⁄2"
x 3 3 ⁄ 4 " x 10 ".
The toolmak-
ers at E.C.E.
use red beech,
hornbeam, pear
or lignum vitae.
In Japan, toolmak-
Here is my shop-made router plane
ers often use a dense oak. My pref- made from white oak with a 5 ⁄16" Allen
erence for wood that’s available wrench and a 3 ⁄8" thumbscrew, washer
locally is white oak or hard maple. and wing nut.
You may find something already on
hand in your shop.
Making Your Plane

Draw the pattern for the plane on
your wood block. Three hole sizes are
required: 3 ⁄ 8" diameter, 1" diameter,
and 2" diameter. If you don’t have a 2" drill bit, this
can be cut using a scroll saw or a hand coping saw.
The two 1" holes are merely to give a smooth curved
hand hold, and can be sawn instead. The 3 ⁄8" hole for
Parrish
the thumbscrew is drilled 1 ⁄2" from the top surface,

Photo by Al
centering on the 2" hole opening.

Now cut the profile of the plane. Once the edges
Drill the 3 ⁄8" hole for the thumbscrew. The larger The plane body is sawn on the band saw. Sand the plane body.
1"-diameter and 2"-diameter holes can be either
drilled or sawn depending on your woodshop’s
drilling capabilities.
Drill the thumbscrew with a 5 ⁄16" drill, as shown

Round the edges with a trim router. The template here. Note that the position is 1⁄8" closer to the Use a slim triangular file to make the hexagonal
for the layout of the body is on the bench. thread side of the head. hole for the Allen wrench.
are sanded, round over all edges The thumbscrew now is drilled starting the 5 ⁄16" hole by slightly firmly against the wall of the cen-
using a wood rasp, or an 1 ⁄8" roun- and filed to make a hexagonal angling the drill can achieve the ter opening.
dover bit in a router as shown in hole for the Allen wrench. Start desired location. However, once You are now ready to grind
the photo above. Enlarging the by drilling a 5 ⁄16" hole in the mal- started, drill straight across so the the cutter. The Allen wrench is
3 ⁄ 8" hole to receive the thumb- leable iron thumbscrew head. This Allen wrench will be held at right already hardened and suitable for
screw is best done after making hole wants to be 1 ⁄8" closer to the angles to the holder. the plane blade. By having a small
the hexagonal hole for the Allen threaded stem than the actual The hexagonal hole shape is container of water handy to the
wrench. At this time the thumb- center. Do your drilling with achieved using a slim file simi- grinding wheel you can keep the
screw will not quite fit into the the thumbscrew firmly clamped lar to the smallest triangular file temperature from spoiling the tip
middle hole, but it will later. to avoid an accident. I find that for sharpening hand saws or the of the blade. Both legs of the Allen
square file in the supplies list. wrench need to be shortened
Orient the hex shape so that the somewhat. Because this is hard
cutter will face forward. The mal- steel, a hack saw will not work.
CLASSES
leable iron files relatively easily. Grind a V-groove from all sides
The Home Shop Router Plane – Jan. 14, 2006 You want a tight fit, so keep testing until the waste end drops off.
406 E. Broadway Hwy. Wood Block Plane – for size as you file. Before grinding the cutter
Charlotte, MI 48813 Jan. 14, 2006 Now the holder and cutter (the itself, study the cross-sectional
517-543-5325 Wood Scrapers & Tool Sharp-
ening – Jan. 28, 2006 thumbscrew and Allen wrench) drawing at right that shows the
(9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Gil Chesbro teams up with Wil- are ready to be fitted to the plane angles needed for an effective
Monday – Friday EST)
son for the following classes: body. A 1 ⁄ 4" chisel will serve to blade. Specifically, note the need
John Wilson’s toolmaking events Spokeshave – Feb. 11, 2006 enlarge the place where the 3 ⁄ 8" for relief. In the words of the adver-
cost $90 and are on Saturdays. Traditional Frame Saw – hole comes into the center open- tisement for stomach acid medi-
Visit shakerovalbox.com for a Feb. 11, 2006 ing. You want the holder to recess cine, “How do you spell relief?”
current schedule.
sufficiently so the cutter is held In cutting tools relief is spelled

HSJE
EJB
Here the blade and holder are ready Carve the recess for the head of the thumbscrew as
to be fitted into the plane body. shown here.
out as: “Nothing touches the Y

work surface behind the leading UIVNCTDSFX
edge.” To achieve this, the Allen
wrench is ground flat on the bot-
tom, with the angle rising steadily
from the cutting edge to the back 8JOHOVU
with about 1 ⁄ 8" of rise. This will
ensure that it will avoid skating off Grind the cutter to a 30° angle. Grinding
without being able to cut. manufacturers don’t recommend side
grinding but I’ve always felt safe. 8BTIFS
The top surface is ground last
to give an approach angle of 30°.
Both top and bottom grinding
need to result in a cutting edge
that lays flat to the work surface.
This is a trial-and-error process
that will take some fussing to get EJB
right. I prefer a belt sander for the
finish work. It is an opportunity to
use up a partially worn belt. The
advantage of the belt sander for
finish grinding is achieving a flat
Be sure to give your router plane a trial run as soon as
surface, good control, and a cool
you’re done sharpening the iron.
working surface while using water
to dip the blade.
A tool is a problem-solving SUPPLIES
device. The most important part
of any tool is your eye for knowing Reid Tool Supply Co. Plan
when and where to use it, and your 800-253-0421 or
hands to guide it to the solution. reidtool.com "MMFOXSFODI
So put your new router plane to 1 • 5 ⁄16" hex key (Allen wrench)
use right now. Clamp a scrap of #AHK-28, $0.58
2 x 4 that’s 1' long in your bench 1 • 3 ⁄8" malleable iron thumb-
vise. Draw a slot 1" wide and 6" screw, 11 ⁄2" long

long. Now use a chisel to define #MIT-23, $2.15
the edges, and chip out a little 1 • 3 ⁄8" malleable iron
waste at the stop end of the slot. thumb (wing) nut
Set your plane for 1 ⁄ 8" deep, and #MIN-4, $1.35
go for it. 1 • 5 ⁄16" flat washer
A wood plane with its special #HHW-0100, $0.07
SFMJFG ¡
cutter and holder is in your hands 1 • 4" square file, 5 ⁄32"
to make it work. It’s a valuable new #GRO-32-414, $5.15
tool for less than $5. PW Prices correct at time of publication. Section
popwood.com 75
POWER-ASSISTED
DOVETAILS
FOR DRAWERS

t’s hard to blame anyone for
I turning to a router and tem-

plate when the job calls for
a kitchen’s worth of dovetailed
drawers. If nothing else, the pro-
cess is fast. Once you’ve fine-tuned
the router settings, you can knock
out a lot of drawer boxes quickly
and with perfect regularity. And
that’s the problem – all that regu-
larity makes for boring joinery.
Boring and uniform: With
many dovetail jigs, the spac-
ing of tails and pins is fixed, and
those pin-to-pin dimensions don’t
always coincide with actual drawer
Half-blind dovetails cut using this method look exactly like those cut entirely by hand.
heights. Templates that allow
adjustable spacing are an improve-
ment, but pin width and slope are
fixed by the shape of the router bit,
and bits may have thicker profiles
than you would like.
These characteristics aren’t as
important when the drawers are
going into a kitchen. But when
a drawer is bound for something
special – a chest of drawers, for
example, or a nice little side table Using a marking gauge, scribe a line across the end grain Without changing the setting on the gauge, scribe a line
– the look and lack of flexibility of the drawer front. It should be about one-third of the on both inside and outside faces of the drawer sides.
in a machine-cut dovetail is all board’s thickness in from the face. These are the base lines for cutting the tails.
wrong. Hand-cut dovetails have
a lot more eye appeal, and their
dimensions and spacing can be Lay Out & Cut the Tails First The drawer front should just line on both ends of the drawer
infinitely adjusted to suit different Much of the process is identical fit into the opening side-to-side. front about a third of the drawer’s
tastes, species of wood and drawer to doing it all by hand, and the Be sure to allow enough clearance thickness in from the front . With-
heights. The only problem is that first thing is to prepare the draw- in height so that seasonal changes out changing the setting, strike a
cutting them by hand and remover parts carefully. Assuming the in moisture content won’t swell line across each drawer side. This
ing all the waste with a chisel and drawer is to fit in a case, without the drawer closed in summer heat represents the length of the dove-
mallet is tedious – about as inter- the use of any drawer hardware, and humidity. The drawer sides tails, and while both dimensions
esting as watering the lawn. an accurate fit is essential if the and the drawer front must be cut must be equal, the exact length
One way to speed up the pro- drawer is to work smoothly. dead-on square for everything to isn’t important. Leaving a nar-
cess, without detracting in any It may seem counter-intuitive, work correctly. rower margin at the front of the
way from the hand-cut look, is to but making a drawer loose for the With stock prepared, lay out drawer looks a little more grace-
use a small router to do a lot of opening makes it harder to oper- the joint just as you would if no ful to me, but it also increases the
the heavy stock removal. I use a ate because the drawer racks and machine were involved. I start by risk slightly that something will go
laminate trimmer, a small router binds as it’s opened and closed. using a marking gauge to strike a awry later in the process.
that can be guided easily with one With these lines scribed,
hand. This approach takes half change the setting on the gauge
the time of doing all the work by
A small router takes the drudgery out so it equals the thickness of the
hand, and with a little practice drawer side and mark the inside
produces consistently accurate
of half-blind dovetails. surface of the drawer front. This
results. Best of all, you won’t be represents the length of the pins
limited by a template or the shape by Scott Gibson and I try to get it as close to the
of a router bit. It’s really the best Scott Gibson, author of “The Workshop,” (Taunton Press) is a writer actual drawer side thickness as
of both worlds. and woodworker in Steep Falls, Maine. possible. Here’s why: In case work,
popwood.com 77
Using a chisel to mark out the tails
Reset the gauge so it equals the saves time. Just align the center of
thickness of the drawer side and the chisel on a mark representing
scribe a line across the inside face of the center of each tail and mark the Dovetail spacing is completely flexible, although the layout usually begins
the drawer front. This represents the edges. Then use the bevel to draw and ends with a half-pin. You can make a small “x” where waste is to be
depth of the dovetail pins. the tail locations. removed.
Cut out the tails on the drawer sides with a dovetail saw, taking care not to With the sides of the tails defined by the saw kerfs, use the chisel to chop out
go past the scribed base line. Unless the cuts are square across the edge of the waste. It helps to make the scribe line a little deeper with a knife and pare
the board it will be impossible to transfer your pin locations accurately to the a small shoulder with a chisel. This prevents the chisel from drifting over the
drawer front. scribe line as you chop.
it’s more common to lay out the pencil. Spacing is entirely up to from both sides, and when you’re
joint so that the pins will protrude you, although it’s typical to start finished make sure all the waste
slightly when the piece is assem- and end the layout with a half-pin. has been removed from the inside
bled. They can be belt-sanded or It also saves time to use a chisel corners of the tails. Use a chisel or
planed flush with case sides very to set the width of the tail at its knife to clean out what’s left.
easily. But taking too much stock widest point. Because tails are cut first, it
off a drawer side after the joint has Now cut out the tails on the doesn’t matter that much if the
been glued up will ruin the fit. drawer sides with a saw all the way angle of the cut is slightly off, or
With lines scribed, set an to (but not beyond) the scribed if one tail is slightly wider than
adjustable bevel for the angle of base line. Split the line to the another. What does matter, how-
the tails. By convention, the slope waste side, as furniture maker ever, is getting the saw cuts square
Use a mallet to chop downward at on the sides of the dovetail is 1:6 and author Tage Frid used to say, to the end of the drawer sides. If
the base line, then pop out a sliver of
for softwoods and 1:8 in hard- and you won’t go wrong. those cuts are angled, it won’t be
waste by working in from the edge of
the board. Take it a little bit at a time woods, although I’m not sure it The half-pin waste on each end possible to transfer the pin layouts
and work about halfway through the matters that much. can be removed with just a saw. accurately to the drawer front, and
board. Then flip the board over and Lay out the tail spacing of the The waste between tails can be the joint won’t fit properly. Inspect
finish from the other side. tails along the drawer side with a chopped out with a chisel. Work the cuts carefully, and if they’re

Check that the tails are clean all the way through, Now transfer the tail layout to the edge
with no remaining waste in the corners. It’s also a of the drawer front by aligning the
good idea to check that the cuts are square across the drawer side on the scribed line on the Holding the drawer side firmly, use a layout knife to
end of the board – if not, correct the problem now by drawer front and marking the pins with scribe lines on the edge of the drawer front. These lines
paring the tails with a chisel. a knife. mark the dovetail pins.
Adjust the base of the router so the end of the bit just
touches the base line. This carbide spiral bit removes
Clamp the drawer front at a comfortable working height, with the inside of the drawer facing you. waste cleanly. Turn on the router and nibble out the
To help stabilize the laminate trimmer, clamp a scrap of wood to the drawer front. Make sure the waste between pin lines. Work slowly and be careful not
clamps are set below the base line. to drift over your layout lines.
not square, true them up with a drawer front. Make sure the draw- a 1 ⁄4" solid carbide spiral up-cut bit, on the inside of the drawer front
chisel before going ahead. er side doesn’t shift out of position which makes a very clean cut. as shown on page 76, turn on the
as you work. When all the lines have been router and nibble out the waste
Use Tails to Lay Out Pins This would normally be the transferred to the drawer front, between pins.
The completed tails are used to lay time to cut to the lines with a clamp a piece of straight wood to If you’re careful, the bit can be
out the pins on the drawer front. saw and chop out the waste with the front side of the drawer front brought surprisingly close to the
I put the drawer front in a bench a chisel, and here’s where you’ll to give the router base a wider con- scribed pin lines – less than 1 ⁄16".
vise and arrange the drawer side bless the person who invented the tact surface. A piece of material Work slowly, be mindful of the
so the front edge lines up exactly laminate trimmer. 3 ⁄4" to 1" thick is usually adequate, direction the bit is spinning and
on the scribed line on the drawer What makes it ideal for half- and it should be clamped so it’s keep an eye on the back line as
front. Hold the drawer side firmly blind dovetails is its small size and perfectly level with the edge of well as the pin line. The bit will
and use a sharp layout knife to light weight, and the fact that it the drawer front. Adjust the bit leave rounded corners, but it will
trace the pins on the end of the can be guided with one hand. I use depth so it meets the scribed line remove almost all of the waste.
popwood.com 79
Clean Up the Cuts and
Assemble the Joint
Once the router has finished its
work, what you should be look-
ing at is a nearly complete joint.
All that remains is to pare away
the little bit of remaining mate-
rial on the drawer front pins with
a sharp chisel.
Rather than removing all the
waste in one swipe, it’s best to
take smaller bites. Simply place
the chisel just a bit back from the
Begin paring away the waste on the sides of the pins.
routed edge and tap it lightly to Take small bites. Finish each pin by placing the edge of
pare away a sliver of wood. Work When you’re finished with the router, there should be the chisel right in the knife line and tapping lightly with
up to the scribed line, finally plac- very little material left to remove. a mallet.
ing the edge of the chisel right
in the scribe line (this is why it’s
better to use a layout knife rather
than a pencil to mark them). A
source of raking light will make
the lines easier to see, but you can
also darken them in with a pen-
cil. You’ll still be able to feel the
edge of the chisel slip into position
when you make the last cut.
Use the same approach to pare
away the waste on the back line,
and work carefully into the corner,
taking a little bit of material off
at a time until the corner is com-
pletely cleaned out. One thing to
watch for is wild grain – it can send
your chisel off in the wrong direc-
tion and damage the workpiece.
If working straight down seems to When the sides of the pins have been pared to the line, First test the joint by just starting the two pieces
be causing a problem, try paring work on the front of the joint. Make sure the front edge together. Pare away any material that would seem to
in cross-grain from the side. If you and the sides of the pins are square, not sloped, so the interfere with the joint. Then apply a bit of glue to the
do shear off a section of pin (and joint will go together without splitting the drawer front. sides of the pins and assemble the joint.
it happens occasionally), you can
always use cyanoacrylate glue and check – you can always make a
an accelerator to quickly repair minor adjustment now if some-
the damage. thing seems too tight – but don’t
With both pins and tails cut, put the joint all the way together
the joint can be tested for fit. Ide- just yet. Once you’re reason-
ally, it will take light taps of a mal- ably sure the joint is going to fit
let or small hammer to bring the together to your liking, add glue to
two pieces together. Getting a the sides of the pins and assemble
good joint is a matter of practice your parts. When the glue is dry,
and feel. If the saw cuts are square trim the joint flush. The result
and the marks transferred accu- should look hand-cut because it
rately to the drawer front, joints is hand-cut. You’ve just had an
made this way should fit together assist from a power tool perfectly You’re done. Parts should fit snugly, but if you find you have a gap between a
nicely. Start the joint together to suited for the job. PW tail and a pin, a sliver of wood and a touch of glue will work wonders.

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ARTS & MYSTERIES
Rumplestiltskin is My Name
Unlock the secrets of your
hand planes by first
learning their real names.
E ver-increasing numbers of woodwork-

ers are using hand planes in their shops.
Their demand for fine planes has given rise
to boutique plane makers such as Clark &
Williams, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Veritas and
Shepherd Tool Co. to name a few.
These users’ interest has given rise to
another industry, no less substantial than
the plane manufacturers: The opinionated
and self-righteous wood plane experts! These
dreaded, self-proclaimed experts offer their
opinions in books, DVDs and yes – you guessed
it – magazine articles. They offer gems in dribs
and drabs, promising that (with their help, of
course) you can magically turn any rough-
sawn surface into wood as smooth as gold.

Naturally, each expert’s opinion is as
individualistic as the woodworker offering
it, leaving you no alternative but to buy all
of the books, videos and – you guessed it –
woodworking magazines available on the sub- Learning the true names of your planes will allow you to figure out what they should be used for –
ject. Worse still, each new plane acquisition leveling your stock, fitting joinery or adding ornamentation.
requires a new set of books and videos because
the experts never attempt to relate a greater
understanding of the larger context that would terious and sometimes contentious world of facturers and we plane “experts” have done
allow you to answer your own questions. No. hand planes. I’ll attempt to provide a simple everything we can do to keep you in the dark.
You must come to me, the wood plane expert. framework that will serve as a reasonable start- Stanley listed its 14"-long No. 5 plane as a jack
The only way you can break your dependence ing place from which you can venture, and to plane and called the 18"-long No. 6 a fore
on me and my fellow magicians is to learn my which I suspect you will inevitably return. plane. Wooden jacks were typically 16".
name. OK, the plane’s name actually. Joseph Moxon, a 17th century chronicler
In the children’s story of Rumplestiltskin, ‘Who Told You That?’ of woodworking tools and methods, tells us
the princess gained the upper hand by learning If learning the name of each plane is the secret the fore plane and jack plane are two names
the magician’s real name. The proper names to unlocking its power, then plane manu- for the same tool: a roughing plane. Accord-
for wood planes are no less elusive or powerful. ing to Moxon, “jack” was the term used by
Learning them is absolutely the key to gaining by Adam Cherubini carpenters, while “fore” (ostensibly describ-
an important advantage in selecting, tuning ing the order in which the plane was to be
and using wood planes in your work. Adam makes reproduction furniture using the tools used) was used by joiners to describe their
and techniques of the 18th century. He demonstrates
In this, the third in a series of articles on his craft at Pennsbury Manor in Bucks County, Penn-
roughing planes.
working wood quickly and efficiently with sylvania, on Historic Trades Days. You can contact To add to our confusion, 18th-century
hand tools, we’ll begin to explore the mys- him at [email protected]. estate inventories listed both jack and fore

planes in the same shop indicating, at least by
then, there was a perceptible difference.
The difference between a try plane and a
jointer plane has been long debated. Though
the planes may appear identical, their appear-
ance is their only similarity.
The confusion about the differences
between dados and grooves, or fillesters and
Dado
rabbets, is forgivable for the uninitiated. But Fillester
when manufacturers call fenced rabbet planes Groove
(such as the Stanley No. 78) a “duplex fillister,” Rabbet
somebody ought to call a good lawyer. The first Because many woodworkers use a table saw
time you try to cut a fillester with a plow plane with a dado blade to cut the joints above, their
or a dado with a rabbet plane, you realize either proper names have fallen out of use. When things
that you’ve been had, or that hand tools are were made by hand, every workman knew these
hard to use and not worth the trouble. names and the different tools required for each.
Sorting Things Out Leveling Planes

Archeologist, historian and tool collector The leveling planes, oft called generically
Henry Chapman Mercer (1856-1930) orga- bench planes because they’re needed for every
nized the wood planes he collected into three job and therefore never leave the bench, are
unique categories according to their purpose. the jack or fore plane, the try plane and the
Mercer could have organized his planes as smoothing plane. All leveling planes benefit
others have since then: by the original users’ from having curved irons for the reason Moxon
trade, or the tools’ outward appearance. But explained in his “Mechanick Exercises.”
Mercer was far more than just a wealthy col- “Should the iron of the plane be ground to
lector with a penchant for odd things: a straight edge and be set ever so little ranker
“Who has ever fully described this ancient on one end of the edge than the other, the
tool, in its 18th century varieties? Owing to ranker end would (bearing as then upon a
Stanley listed its 14"-long No. 5 plane (shown at
the confusing and non-descriptive names point) in working, dig Gutters on the Surface
left) as a jack plane and called the 18"-long No.
given to it, it is hard to understand until we of the Stuff.” 6 a fore plane (not shown). The manufacturer of
overlook the endless variations in its make The lengths of leveling planes vary in the 14" low-angle jack plane (center) says the
and shape and grasp the three purposes of accordance with each tool’s specific use. plane is “technically a block plane.” The No. 40
its construction.” – Henry Mercer, “Ancient Smoothers are shortest. Their principal scrub plane (shown at right) is a metal version of
Carpenter’s Tools.” duty is to leave a smooth surface regardless a European jack plane.
It is a shame Mercer’s categories have not of its flatness. Try planes are the longest of
received greater acceptance from woodwork- the group. Their length leaves a flat surface. Smoothers’ mouths must be tight; as tight
ers. As it turns out, Mercer’s system is both Fore planes are the roughing planes. The fore as possible to leave a truly smooth surface.
helpful and robust. It’s an excellent starting plane’s traditional 16" length is a convenient Similarly, smoothers benefit from higher
place for any would-be planer. size for rough use. blade pitches. Fore planes may have wide-
Stanley named the #78

(left) a duplex fillister
(whatever that means).
It has many of the
features of the wooden
fillester at right except
the one feature that
makes it effective for
creating fillesters. Can
you tell what that is?
Which one is the jointer again? Obviously the longest plane has the advan-
tage when straightening an edge, but of the three, the widest may be the
best choice, for it has advantages when edge planing thick stock.
popwood.com 83
ARTS & MYSTERIES
Wedge
Illustrations by Matt Bantly

Mouth
Bed
Pitch
Heel Toe
Sole Throat
The degree of blade curvature varies: smoothers (left) have the least, fore
planes (center) the most. As a side benefit, the curved blades eliminate the
Anatomy of a wooden plane necessity for lateral-adjustment mechanisms. At right is a try plane.
open mouths. Tear-out is limited by working produce both rabbets and fillets of different this last rule. Its fine mouth facilitates the cre-
at some angle across the grain. Try planes sizes. Only buy a jointer if you need to glue up ation of lightly sprung match joints and very
need a moderately tight mouth to work with panels, otherwise a try plane can work your straight edges. Also, an edge with tear-out
the grain when needed. If a try plane’s mouth edges straight. Plows, dados and match planes may blemish the face after the joint is glued.
was as tight as a smoother’s it would work work quickly and efficiently, and should be on Fitting planes designed to work perpen-
much too slowly. the top of your tool wish list. Once sharpened dicular to the grain typically have skewed
and tuned correctly, you’ll find little use for blades. This is a distinct advantage for this
Fitting Planes your electric router. type of work. When working with the grain,
The fitting planes are specifically designed The blades of all fitting planes are always the skewed blade pushes the plane sideways.
to prepare square features for joints. The fit- ground to form a perfectly straight edge. The This can be advantageous when guiding the
ting plane category includes the dado, rabbet, “gutters” Moxon spoke of are not a problem plane along a batten, or banking the tool
“match” planes (which make tongue-and- with these tools because fitting planes are against a pre-established fillet. But it’s a dis-
groove joints), fillester, plow, router and the never called upon to work a surface broader tinct disadvantage when establishing a fea-
“glewing” jointer, which is often mistakenly than the width of their blades. In every case, ture freehand.
placed with the leveling planes. except the jointer, a fitting plane benefits from
One needn’t have all of these planes ini- a wide mouth. This allows the user to waste Ornamentation Planes
tially, though such a set would have been fairly away wood fast. A flawless surface finish is Ornamentation planes produce mouldings.
typical in a professional cabinetshop in the never important because, by definition, the A seemingly infinite variety of ornamenta-
18th century. A common wide skew rabbet surface created is a joint that will be covered tion planes exist.
can be used with a batten or applied fence to up. The “glewing” jointer is an exception to Simple moulders are often called hollows
and rounds, each named for the shape of the
plane’s sole, not the moulding it produces.
When making a moulding, one often needs
to remove a great deal of material from a long
length of stock. Naturally we prefer to do this
Shown from left are a set of four dado planes, three skew rabbets, a pair of side rabbets, two pairs of A skew rabbet plane (top) can work across the
match planes for different size stock, moving fillester, specialty drawer bottom plow, wedged arm grain or with it. The square rabbet plane (bottom)
plow, old widow’s tooth router (uses plow plane irons) and a 30" jointer plane behind them all. is easier to freehand.

Complex moulders produce shapes with complex curves or multiple fea-
tures; simple moulders produce a single, fillet-less, convex or concave arc. Here is a half set of round planes.
Technically, beads and sash planes (as shown here) are complex moulding planes, but
Here is a half set of hollow planes. they are rarely categorized as such.
quickly, and that means a sharp iron and an shape you think will be helpful and forgetting Likewise, by determining what function
open mouth. But the decorative nature of the about looking only for matching sets. It’s also a you require, (such as surface leveling, making
moulding requires a tight mouth for a smooth lesson to beware of arbitrary requirements. rabbets, dados, grooves, mouldings etc.) you
finished surface. So should a moulding plane can select the design of the plane you need,
have an open mouth for fast work, or a tight Back Where We Began regardless of what the manufacturer calls it.
mouth for a smooth finish? We can’t have both. Mercer’s categories are the starting place I This way, you can determine if a skewed iron
Unfortunately, I don’t know the answer. promised. Mercer saw the arts and mysteries or tight mouth really is a benefit for your work.
In Michael Dunbar’s excellent book, in the commonality of design and function. Unfortunately, you can’t trust the manufac-
“Restoring, Tuning, and Using Classic Wood- That enabled him to solve the problems he turer to always know such things.
working Tools” he recommends purchasing faced in identifying unusual planes. Mercer’s categories are a starting place,
hollow and round planes in matched pairs. I’ve But it helps us precisely the same way: One but also an inevitable destination. See, there’s
never come across a technical reason for this needn’t consult an expert to learn how to tune much more to Mercer’s categories than just
practice. It suggests some functional require- or use an unfamiliar plane. Use the design cataloging the tools in a collection, or tuning
ment (like making a joint) that should theo- (including length and other physical charac- and using planes. Implied but never discussed
retically never exist within the category of teristics) to help you place the plane into its is the notion that each plane fits into only a
ornamentation planes. Maybe Dunbar was proper functional category and name. Once single category and has but a single name. So
thinking of using hollows and rounds for rule properly identified, you will instantly know naming each plane correctly is an important
joints? Until we figure this out, I recommend how the iron should be sharpened and how first step. Recognizing that a plane can only
sticking with Mercer and buying or making any tight the mouth should be. have one true name is the next. PW
popwood.com 85
FLEXNER ON FINISHING
Fixing Finished Surfaces

Remove common surface
problems with minimal
damage to the finish.
C leaning the finish on furniture can

involve more than just wiping now and
then with a damp cloth or furniture polish.
Foreign matter can become stuck to the sur-
face and require a more complex cleaning
procedure. Here are several common examples
and how to deal with each.

Stickers and Tape
Many retail stores and moving companies
put labeling stickers with prices and other
Felt-tip pen marks can be removed without damaging any coating (except shellac) by wiping lightly
information on furniture. If these stickers
with denatured alcohol.
aren’t removed within a few months they
can become so stuck to the surface that you
can’t peel them off. Because the glues that are (toluol), which is the strongest solvent. All are color difference in the wood or finish under
used on these stickers vary, it’s not possible to available at paint stores and home centers, as the sticker or tape because this area was
identify one solvent that will dissolve every is turpentine, a pine-sap distillate, which has shielded from light.
one. In many cases the solvent that works a solvent strength similar to naphtha.
best, in fact, also dissolves the finish. None of these solvents causes damage to Candle Wax
Usually, the safest way to remove these any finish except wax and water base unless You can remove candle wax from a finish a
stickers is to soften the paper with water (as they remain in contact for a considerable little at a time by rubbing with a petroleum-
you do to remove paper labels from jars), then time. They all remove wax; and xylene and distillate dampened cloth. But it is much faster
peel off the paper and either rub off the glue toluene will damage a water-based finish. to use ice to crystallize the wax and then pick
with your finger or soften it with a petroleum- Masking and Scotch tape are more diffi- it off the surface.
distillate solvent and then rub it off. cult to remove because you can’t use water to Hold an ice cube against the wax for five or
Petroleum-distillate solvents include separate the tape from the glue. You will have 10 seconds to freeze it. Then pick the wax off
mineral spirits (paint thinner), which is the to work a solvent under the tape. Toluene the surface with your fingernail and remove
weakest, naphtha, xylene (xylol) and toluene and xylene are best (except on water-based
finishes) because of their strength. Other
solvents such as alcohol and lacquer thinner
may damage the finish.
In extreme cases, you may have to scrape
or abrade off the tape and then repair the
damage to the finish. Sometimes there’s a
by Bob Flexner
Bob is author of “Understanding Wood Finishing,” Candle wax can usually be removed by picking it
Sometimes stickers become so stuck to a surface now in its second, fully revised, edition. To purchase, off after freezing with an ice cube. Any remain-
that they can’t be peeled off. Usually water or visit amazon.com, your local bookstore or a ing wax can then be dissolved and wiped off with
solvent can be used to remove them. woodworking supply store. mineral spirits.

any that remains with a petroleum-distil-
late solvent.
If you don’t have any ice handy, you can
cut or scrape off the majority of the wax with
a chisel, knife or plastic credit card. Then
remove the rest with a petroleum distillate.
Crayon Marks
Because crayons are wax, you should be able Latex paint spatter can by removed without
to remove crayon marks by wiping with any damaging any coating except water-base or latex
Crayons are wax, so crayon markings can be paint by scrubbing lightly with xylene or a propri-
petroleum-distillate solvent, turpentine or
removed by wiping with mineral spirits. etary product containing xylene.
even furniture polish. But if the finish is so
thin that the crayon has gotten into the wood,
you may have difficulty removing all the color. Mold and Mildew around knobs and pulls is usually the result
Try washing the surface several times with the Mold and mildew are bacteria that thrive of the finish having been broken down by
petroleum distillate. It may help to scrub the in damp conditions common in cellars. It repeated contact with mild acids or alkalis.
affected area lightly with a toothbrush. doesn’t do much good to remove the mold or The most common culprit is acidic body oil
mildew from the surface if you don’t kill the or sweat from peoples’ hands, arms and backs.
Paint Spatter spores. To do this, mix equal parts of house- Repeated washings with an alkali soap can
When you roll latex paint onto walls and hold bleach and water, and wipe the surface also cause this problem.
ceilings, the roller throws off tiny droplets of using a cotton cloth or sponge. The bleach You can try washing the finish with a mild
paint that land on you and everything else won’t damage any finish, but the water will soap such as dishwashing liquid. If this doesn’t
in the room. If you don’t cover your furni- if it gets under the finish and into the wood. correct the problem, you can try rubbing with
ture well, you may find these droplets stuck So don’t soak the cloth. steel wool to abrade off the surface of the
to the finish. To aid in the cleaning you can add a pH- finish and expose good finish underneath.
For a few days you may be able to remove neutral soap such as dishwashing liquid. Then Usually the finish is destroyed all the way
the droplets by rubbing with a cloth damp- wipe the surface with a clean, damp cloth to through, however, so it has to be removed
ened with water, or soap and water. But once remove any residue that might be left from and replaced to fix the problem.
the droplets have hardened, you will need to the bleach or soap. Carefully dry off the sur-
rub them with a solvent. face with a dry cloth. To keep the mold and The Ultimate Fix
The solvent to use is toluene or xylene, mildew from returning, place the furniture With the possible exception of the wrinkled
which is the active solvent in commercial in drier conditions. finish, all of these problems can be corrected
products such as Goof Off and Oops!. Be by abrading – in effect, rubbing out the fin-
very careful using one of these solvents on Wrinkled Finishes ish, or at least a part of it. But this may cause
water-based finish or latex paint. A dirty, wrinkled and often sticky finish on sheen differences, so try the methods I suggest
Unlike latex paint, oil paint cannot be chair arms and backs, edges of tables, and above first. PW
removed easily from another paint or finish
without also damaging it. Only a very strong
solvent such as lacquer thinner or paint strip-
per will soften oil paint, and these solvents
will dissolve or soften every other paint or
finish on the piece, too. To remove oil paint
with the least damage to the underlying paint
or finish, you usually have to scrape or abrade
the paint off the surface.
Felt-tip Pen Marks

The binder used in felt-tip pens and Magic
Markers is similar to shellac in that it is usu-
ally soluble in alcohol, so the obvious cleaner
Finishes that have softened and become wrinkled
is alcohol. Of course, you won’t be able to Mildew spores can be killed (to stop further (and also dirty) because of extended contact with
avoid damaging a shellac surface, and you growth) by washing the surface with half-and- acids contained in body oils and sweat (as shown
will need to be very careful on lacquer and half household bleach and water. Dry the surface above) usually have to be stripped and replaced
water-based finish. quickly so the water doesn’t damage the finish. with a new finish.
popwood.com 87
PRODUCT INDEX
PAGE # CIRCLE # WEB ADDRESS PAGE # CIRCLE # WEB ADDRESS
ADHESIVES SAWMILLS & KILNS
EpoxyHeads 17 112 epoxyheads.com Granberg International 94 158 granberg.com
Gorilla Glue 16 118 gorillaglue.com Norwood Industries 94 136 norwoodindustries.com
BITS, BLADES & CUTTERS SCHOOL/INSTRUCTION

Amana Tool 6 103 amanatool.com Northwest Woodworking Studio 94 135 northwestwoodworking.com
CMT 12 108 cmtusa.com
Forrest 27 115 stores.yahoo.com/forrestman SHOP ACCESSORIES
Routerbits.com 94 142 routerbits.com Airware America 94 102 airwareamerica.com
Oneida Air Systems 13 137 oneida-air.com
BOOKS
Tormek USA 12 145 sharptoolsusa.com
Linden Publishing 94 130 lindenpub.com
TURNING SUPPLIES
FASTENERS
Augums Pen Works 94 105 augumspenworks.com
McFeely’s 81 134 mcfeelys.com Packard Woodworks 95 139 packardwoodworks.com
Red Top Screws 95 141 redtopscrews.com
WOOD & VENEERS
FURNITURE & PROJECT PARTS
M.L. Condon 94 131 —
Adams Wood Products 27 100 adamswoodproducts.com
Wall Lumber 17 148 walllumber.com
Architectual Products 94 104 archpro.com
Woodfinder 95 — woodfinder.com
Osborne Wood Products 89 138 osbornewood.com
Woodworker’s Source 94 156 woodworkerssource.com
HAND TOOLS
WOODWORKING CATALOGS
Adjustable Clamp 6 101 adjustableclamp.com
Hartville Tool 81 121 hartvilletool.com
Bessey 18 106 bessey.com
Woodcraft 10-11, 13 151, 152 woodcraft.com
Bob’s Rule 12 107 bobsrule.com
Woodworker’s Supply 81 157 woodworker.com
Fine Tool Journal 95 114 finetoolj.com
Glen-Drake Tool Works 81 117 glen-drake.com
Japan Woodworker 89 122 thejapanwoodworker.com
Lee Valley 21 127 leevalley.com
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks
Manny’s Woodworker’s Place
89
94
129
133
lie-nielsen.com
mannyswoodbooks.com 4FFTPNFUIJOHZPVXBOU
Tools for Working Wood 144 toolsforworkingwood.com
Traditional Woodworker
Wood Artistry
81
95
95
146
150
traditionalwoodworker.com
woodartistry.com
/FFENPSFJOGPSNBUJPO
6TFUIF'SFF*OGPSNBUJPO$BSEJOUIJTJTTVFUPSFDFJWFGSFF
HARDWARE BEWFSUJTFSJOGPSNBUJPO
Whitechapel Ltd. 12 149 whitechapel-ltd.com
Woodworker’s Hardware 81 155 wwhardware.com 'PSGBTUFSTFSWJDF HP POMJOF BUXXXQPQXPPEDPNBOE
DMJDLi'3&&*/'03."5*0/uPSGBYUIFDBSEUP
KITS & PLANS
Craftsman Plans
Klockit
95
27
—
159
craftsmanplans.com
klockit.com
8JOB-FJHI%%PWFUBJM+JH
Pygmy Boats 94 140 pygmyboats.com 8IFOZPVSFRVFTUJOGPSNBUJPO ZPVSFBVUPNBUJDBMMZFOUFSFEJO
U-Bild.com 94 147 u-bild.com PVSESBXJOHUPXJOB-FJHI*OEVTUSJFT%%PWFUBJM+JH5IJT
CFBVUJGVMMZFOHJOFFSFEKJHIBOEMFTXJEFCPBSETBOESPVUT
POWER TOOLS
UISPVHIEPWFUBJMTVQUP cUIJDLBOEIBMGCMJOETVQUP
Delta Machinery 31 110 deltamachinery.com
UIJDLmBMMXJUIJOàOJUFBEKVTUNFOUPGQJO UBJMXJEUIBOETQBDJOH
DeWalt 2 111 dewalt.com
Fein Power Tools 19 113 feinus.com GPSUIBUDMBTTJDIBOEDVUMPPL1MVTJUEPFTTMJEJOHEPWFUBJMT
General Mfg. 23 116 general.ca %PWFUBJMKPJOFSZIBTOFWFSCFFOFBTJFS8FMMTFMFDUPOFMVDLZ
Grizzly Industrial C2-1, 25 119, 120 grizzly.com XJOOFSGSPNUIFàSTUJOGPSNBUJPOSFRVFTUTSFDFJWFEGSPN
Jet Tools 14-15 123, 160 jettools.com UIJTJTTVF
Legacy Woodworking 94 128 legacywoodworking.com
Makita USA C4 132 makitatools.com
Ridgid 9 — ridgid.com
Sears Craftsman C3 143 craftsman.com
Woodstock International 7 154 woodstockinternational.com
POWER TOOL ACCESSORIES

Craftsman Gallery 95 109 thecraftsmangallery.com
Jointech 23 124 jointech.com
Keller & Company 27 125 kellerdovetail.com
Kreg Tool 5 126 kregtool.com
Leigh Industries 13, 27 — leighjigs.com
4FF"EWFSUJTFS*OEFYPS1SPEVDU*OEFYGPSDJSDMFOVNCFST
Woodpeckers 95 153 woodpeck.com

ADVERTISER INDEX
ADVERTISER PAGE # CIRCLE # WEB ADDRESS
Wood Products, Inc. Adams Wood Products 27 100 adamswoodproducts.com

Adjustable Clamp 6 101 adjustableclamp.com
7JTJUXXXPTCPSOFXPPEDPN Airware America 94 102 airwareamerica.com
GPSDPOWFOJFOUBDDFTTUPPVS Amana Tool 6 103 amanatool.com
MBSHFTUPDLPGXPPEUVSOJOHT Architectual Products 94 104 archpro.com
Augums Pen Works 94 105 augumspenworks.com
Bessey 18 106 bessey.com
Bob’s Rule 12 107 bobsrule.com
CMT 12 108 cmtusa.com
Craftsman Gallery 95 109 thecraftsmangallery.com
Craftsman Plans 95 — craftsmanplans.com
Delta Machinery 31 110 deltamachinery.com
DeWalt 2 111 dewalt.com
EpoxyHeads 17 112 epoxyheads.com
Fein Power Tools 19 113 feinus.com
Fine Tool Journal 95 114 finetoolj.com
Forrest 27 115 stores.yahoo.com/forrestman
General Mfg. 23 116 general.ca
Glen-Drake Tool Works 81 117 glen-drake.com
Gorilla Glue 16 118 gorillaglue.com
Granberg International 94 158 granberg.com
Grizzly Industrial C2-1, 25 119, 120 grizzly.com
Hartville Tool 81 121 hartvilletool.com
www.osbornewood.com Japan Woodworker 89 122 thejapanwoodworker.com
Jet Tools 14-15 123, 160 jettools.com
&BTZ0SEFSJOHt$VTUPNFS)JTUPSZ Jointech 23 124 jointech.com
5SBDLJOHt%9''JMFT $"%%SBXJOHT
.PSF Keller & Company 27 125 kellerdovetail.com
Klockit 27 159 klockit.com
#USTOMER3ERVICE Kreg Tool 5 126 kregtool.com
Lee Valley 21 127 leevalley.com
Legacy Woodworking 94 128 legacywoodworking.com
Leigh Industries 13, 27 — leighjigs.com
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks 89 129 lie-nielsen.com
Linden Publishing 94 130 lindenpub.com
M.L. Condon 94 131 —
Makita USA C4 132 makitatools.com
Manny’s Woodworker’s Place 94 133 mannyswoodbooks.com
McFeely’s 81 134 mcfeelys.com
Northwest Woodworking Studio 94 135 northwestwoodworking.com
Norwood Industries 94 136 norwoodindustries.com
Oneida Air Systems 13 137 oneida-air.com
Osborne Wood Products 89 138 osbornewood.com
Packard Woodworks 95 139 packardwoodworks.com
Pygmy Boats 94 140 pygmyboats.com
Red Top Screws 95 141 redtopscrews.com
Ridgid 9 — ridgid.com
Routerbits.com 94 142 routerbits.com
Sears Craftsman C3 143 craftsman.com
Tools for Working Wood 81 144 toolsforworkingwood.com
Tormek USA 12 145 sharptoolsusa.com
Traditional Woodworker 95 146 traditionalwoodworker.com
U-Bild.com 94 147 u-bild.com
Wall Lumber 17 148 walllumber.com
Whitechapel Ltd. 12 149 whitechapel-ltd.com
Wood Artistry 95 150 woodartistry.com
ow
SAW n Woodcraft 10-11, 13 151, 152 woodcraft.com
e a R AZOR our 102
s
urcha will include world’s Woodfinder 95 — woodfinder.com
rld P
u n d the wo of and we talog of the ols. Or Woodpeckers 95 153 woodpeck.com
en aro secret r page ca dworking to r sub-
Craftsm covered the o woo yea Woodstock International 7 154 woodstockinternational.com
ve d is . T he Raz finest .00 for a two . 155
ha
e r q u a lity work g and will s e n d $2 r C a ta log Woodworker’s Hardware 81 wwhardware.com
bett pullin te n to ou Woodworker’s Source 94 156 woodworkerssource.com
uts by more accura scriptio
Saw c a n er, rker.co
m
Woodworker’s Supply 81 157 woodworker.com
c le
give a lf the time. oodwo
w w.j apanw D e pt P1
a w
cut in h
CIRCLE NO. 122 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. popwood.com 89

AT THE LATHE
Solid Roots for Good Design

The first step to a
pleasing form is knowing
your possibilities and
limitations.
W hether or not you know it, every time

you make something you are designing.
What does that mean, exactly? This defini-
tion (from “The Random House Dictionary
of the English Language”) sums it up well:
“... to plan and fashion the form and structure
of an object.” You may do this as you go with-
out consciously thinking, using your experi-
ence (or possibly lack thereof) to determine
the structure, procedure and form of your
work. In other words, you do a certain step a
certain way because that is the one way you If you’re turning green wood, designing a bowl
know best or you don’t know any other way begins when you rough it out. Leave the bowl
to do it. Or you may carefully plan out every thick enough for the shape and detail you want.
step in advance, specifying materials, drawing Remember, you will lose a fair amount of the
thickness just getting it round again after it dries
the finished object before you even begin, etc.
and distorts. Pay special attention to the foot;
Photos by Al Parrish
Either way, you are a designer. a common problem is too little material left to
To design work for the lathe, you need to comfortably re-attach the piece to the lathe and
have a general idea of what you plan to make create a pleasing shape that harmonizes with the
and what kind or kinds of materials will be rest of the piece.
suitable for the project. For this article we
will use a wooden bowl as our example. You
will decide how to treat the wood based on each decision you make, will automatically consider any issues about the appearance or
its condition. For example, you could use it eliminate a great many possibilities that lie other characteristics of other species of wood,
as is, rough-turn and dry it, turn it green, etc. along other branches, but will also bring you and how those characteristics might affect
You also will decide how to attach it to the closer to your goal – the finished piece. So an your design or its execution. But you can now
lathe, and what tools and procedures, in what important tool in designing anything is an take into account what will be possible with
sequence, you will use to produce the work. understanding of how each decision will both the maple. Maple is hard and strong, and has
And eventually, even if by default, you will place limits on, and enable possibilities for, a close and even grain; you can make a very
decide what form the object will take; what it what comes next. thin bowl, or one with very tight, crisp detail,
will end up looking like. I’ll discuss form and For example, if you decide you’re going though you aren’t limited to doing so.
proportion in our October 2005 issue. to use clear hard maple, you need no longer If, on the other hand, you will be using
The process of designing anything is some- spalted maple that has gone somewhat soft,
thing like starting at the root of a tree, with by Judy Ditmer the nature of this material may preclude an
the tip of each and every twig on the tree a extremely thin bowl because it would not be
Judy, author of two turning books and many articles,
possible destination. You travel up the trunk, has been turning since 1985. She teaches and
strong enough to hold together if too thin.
taking one branch, and then another, and so demonstrates her skills throughout the United States Or you might have to avoid adding very tight
on, until you reach a final design. Each choice, and Canada. detail because it would require too much sand-

ing. In terms of aesthetics, such detail might or both sides. This might be done while the cedures and tools as you can. This increases
be inappropriate anyway; the wood itself is piece is between centers; it might mean cut- your “vocabulary” of solutions for a variety
visually dense, and too much detail could ting a recess on the bottom of the workpiece of problems or questions you will encounter
easily make the piece too busy. while it is initially mounted on a faceplate. in designing your work. And the larger your
Deciding how you will mount the work for Chuck mounts work well for medium-sized vocabulary is, the better able you will be to
each step in the turning process is a critical pieces, or pieces that will need to be removed clearly express your ideas, or even to have
part of designing it. If you will use a faceplate, and replaced several times. them in the first place.
you need to ensure that the area containing For small bowls, a waste or glue block is If you only know how to mount a bowl
the screw holes will be eliminated later. Usu- often the best choice for mounting. A piece using a chuck, you may tend not even to think
ally this isn’t an issue with the first mounting, too small to be effectively or safely mounted of designs that would work best, or would only
because the holes are in what will become the on a chuck is easily turned on a waste block, work, if mounted on a waste block. At best,
interior of the bowl. But if a faceplate will be and none of the workpiece is used up in the such designs could be difficult to execute if
used on the foot to turn the inside of the bowl, mounting. See “Mounting a Bowl” below for you only know one or two ways to mount a
then as you turn the exterior, be sure to leave more information on the subject. piece on the lathe.
enough wood on the bottom for the faceplate. Again, each move outward on your deci- There are many variables; experience will
So faceplate mounts are often a good choice sion tree both creates and limits possibilities. begin to open up the possibilities. In the mean-
for larger work; there is plenty of room for the A very big part of design, whether technical time, choose a particular way to proceed with
screw holes, and it is a very secure way to hold or aesthetic, is understanding these limita- this bowl, whether or not you are certain it
a large, heavy piece of wood. tions and possibilities and the complex ways is the very best one possible. Then make the
If you will be using a chuck, at some point in which they interact. best piece you can. Pay attention to that dance
you will need to prepare the workpiece for the It’s a good idea to learn to use as many between limits and possibilities. It describes
chuck by turning the appropriate shape on one different materials, mounting methods, pro- and defines what design is. PW
MOUNTING A BOWL
Mounting with a Faceplate and Waste Block
One of the most basic decisions in design- 1 A faceplate (not shown) is attached with screws
to what will be the interior of the bowl; the screw
ing your bowl will be how you will attach it
Button holes are in the part that will be excavated later.
to the lathe. There are many ways to do this,
and usually there will be at least two different The bottom is turned flat, leaving a small button
mountings: one (or more) for turning the exte- in the center (this will be used to center the bowl
rior and interior of the bowl, and one for fin- on the glue block). The entire exterior of the
ishing the foot. The method(s) you choose will bowl should be completed while on the face-
be influenced by the kind and size of the piece plate, including sanding and finishing (unless
finishing will be done off the lathe).
of wood, the type of bowl you’re making,
whether or not you have a chuck, etc. Here is
a simple sequence for mounting a small bowl
using a faceplate and waste block.
The workpiece has been

2 removed; a glue block
(shown left) has been
screwed onto the face-
plate, mounted on the
lathe, turned round and
faced off flat (I like to use
hard maple for this but any
hard close-grained wood
is suitable). Measure the
button on the bowl and
transfer the size to the glue
block. With the lathe on,
touch only the left point of 3
the caliper to the wood.
Cut a shallow recess to the diameter you have marked.
popwood.com 91
AT THE LATHE
4
Try the fit, and modify the recess as necessary. The button should
fit snugly into the recess so the workpiece won’t move off center,
and the bowl shouldn’t rock. You can test the fit with the lathe
running, by gripping the bowl securely and pressing it onto the
block; this will create burn or burnish marks and you will be able
to see any high spots. If you are not comfortable doing this (the
bowl could be twisted from your hands), just keep testing the fit
with the lathe turned off until you have it right. It may take some 5
trial and error. Glue the bowl onto the block with thick cyanoac- To remove the bowl, place a flat chisel or skew along the glue joint and strike the chisel
rylate glue on the bowl and accelerator on the block. Rotate the with a quick, sharp blow with a mallet. The bowl should pop right off of the waste
bowl to spread the glue evenly and hold for a few seconds until it block. (If you can’t manage to hold the chisel and the bowl with one hand, put a board
sets. Turn, sand and finish the interior of the bowl. covered with a towel or blanket across the lathe bed to cushion the bowl when it falls.)
A simple way to finish the foot (if

7 it will not be too deep) is to place
some padding over the glue block,
put the bowl over that, and bring up
the tailstock to hold it in place. Bring
the live center forward slowly and
gently; it is possible to split the bowl
if you use too much pressure. With
a fingernail-grind or detail gouge,
cut a slight hollow in the foot almost
to the center. Then remove the bowl
from the lathe, nip off the remaining
bit of waste with a hand chisel and
sand smooth.
Another way to remount the bowl to turn the

8 foot is in a doughnut jig. This jig holds the bowl
between a disc of plywood attached to a face-
plate and another disc with a hole cut into it;
the discs are held together with bolts and wing
nuts (the nuts always go on the side toward
the headstock). The bowl is cushioned with
carpet foam. This mounting is a good choice if
the foot will be deep or will have a lot of detail,
as it allows better access to turn the foot.
6
Usually the glue joint breaks cleanly, and there will
be only a little cleanup required.

Mounting with a Glue Block and Chuck
This is a good method if you own a chuck, but your workpiece is not
very thick. If you mount the piece using a recess that is too shallow,
the jaws of the chuck may break the piece when they are expanded to
hold it, or the workpiece may simply be pulled off the chuck as you turn
it. But a deeper recess would use up too much of the thickness of the
wood; you don’t want to lose any depth in the finished piece.
Here the waste block

(or glue block) has
1
been glued to what
will be the bottom of
the workpiece. I use
thick cyanoacrylate Waste
block
glue. Apply glue to one
surface, accelerator
to the other and twist
together.
2
The waste block and the bottom of the workpiece are then turned
together. Cut a straight shoulder (or a slight dovetail, depending on the
jaws of your chuck) on the waste piece for mounting in the chuck. (Here
I have cut a recess to indicate that you could also mount the piece by
expanding the jaws into it, if desired. You would be using one method
or the other, not both; your glue block should have only a shoulder or a
recess. Always remember: When mounting by expansion of the jaws, the
recess must be as deep as possible and the collar of surrounding wood as
wide as possible, so the wood will not split.) You should complete the bot-
tom of the workpiece, including sanding and finishing; you won’t want to
work on that side later with the jaws of the chuck spinning so close.
Mounting with a Glue Block and Faceplate
2
Round the glue block, and turn the outside and inside on this one mount-
ing. It can be more difficult to work on the back like this, but for smaller
pieces it works well and eliminates the need for a second mounting.
1 Larger, flatter pieces are much more difficult to turn this way; they are
Another way to turn using a glue block is to mount the waste piece on a face- best done as described above. (The extra time for the second mounting is
plate, then glue the workpiece to the waste block. made up for by easier access when turning the bottom.) — JD
popwood.com 93
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popwood.com 95
OUT OF THE WOODWORK
Woodshop Pest Control

One man’s trick to keeping his
lumberyard’s small mammal
population in check.
Illustration by Pat Lewis

W hen customers visit my lumber-
yard with unruly children, I have
a delicate job maintaining safety without
offending the parent. Dr. David Randall, a
psychologist, needed some curly maple for
a Queen Anne lowboy. He brought his 6-
year-old son, Webster. As David unrolled
his plans, Webster sprung onto the oak pile.
“No, Webster. Don’t climb on the lum-
ber,” he explained patiently. “You might fall
and hurt yourself. Come help me show these
plans to Mr. Sieling.” Webster leaped off the to bask in the warmth of the kiln, grow big- considered small mammals, too, although
oak, crashed on the concrete floor and began ger, shed a few skins, then disappear in late I don’t know what snakes think of them.
to howl. David knelt and comforted him. summer. I picked up the largest snake. They might be too big. Just in case, I recom-
Webster pulled away, picked up a handful “This is Cuddles,” I explained to Web- mend that kids stick close to their parents.”
of sawdust and threw it into the air. David ster. “He is the largest snake. His wife’s Cuddles wrapped his body tightly around
opened his plans. Webster found a piece of name is Snuggles. Do you know why I my arm and warily stared at Webster, his
scrap wood and began to beat the table saw named them that?” Webster shook his head. forked tongue flitting in and out. “He’s
blade. He found the bell-like tone enchant- His eyes showed white all around. “They are smelling you. Ow, Cuddles, I’m not a small
ing. “He is very musical,” David explained. constrictors. That means they like to wrap mammal!” I peeled him off my arm. “I guess
“He has an excellent sense of rhythm and themselves around their food and crush he’s hungry. They’ve pretty much cleaned
tone.” I cranked the blade below the table. it before eating. That way they can swal- the small mammals out of this place.”
As I pulled out some boards, Webster low things that are larger than themselves. Webster seemed quiet as we returned to
disappeared upstairs. “David, why don’t you They lurk quietly around the lumber piles his father. He stuck close to me.
see how these boards will fit your list. I’d like and catch things to eat. I like to have them David and I finished the order and ran
to show your son something educational.” around because they keep pests out of our it through the planer. David gave Webster
“Oh, of course,” David said. warehouse. Do you know what snakes eat?” a board to carry out to the van. Web-
I found Webster swinging a stick at the Webster shook his head. ster dropped it across a mud puddle, and
band saw switch. “Hey Webster, want to see “They like frogs and toads, small mam- stomped on it. David turned pale. “Webster,
the kiln snakes?” I pried the stick out of his mals, stuff like that. Do you know what a no! That board is not for jumping on. It’s for
hand and led him downstairs to the lumber small mammal is?” making furniture.”
kiln. We entered through the access door. “Mice and stuff.” “... Good for paddling backsides, too,” I
A blast of hot humid air blew out, accom- “That’s right; mice are small mammals, said, looking at Webster, who slowly picked
panied by the roaring of fans. “Feels kind of and rats and cats, too. Also the young of up the dripping board and set it in the van.
like a jungle, doesn’t it?” I suggested. larger mammals: baby rabbits, kids – I mean “Oh no, no.” David sputtered. “Children
Stretched out on the floor were half baby goats. I suppose children might be need to be nurtured gently.”
a dozen garter snakes and two large milk I waved at Webster as they pulled out. He
snakes. Like the buzzards of Hinckley, Ohio, by Peter Sieling glared back. “Goodbye, little mammal!” I
or the swallows of San Juan Capistrano, Peter owns Garreson Lumber Co., a hardwood called. He stuck out his tongue. We under-
Calif., the milk snakes return every spring supplier in Bath, New York. stood each other. PW

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CHEAT AT DOVETAILS: USE A TRIM ROUTER FOR THE DIRTY WORK

THE #1 HAND PLANE SECRET: A CURVED CUTTING EDGE WORKS WONDERS

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4 POPULAR WOODWORKING August 2005

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