Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)

Unit 7: Decorative Cosmetic Products – Eye Makeup

ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF HUMAN EYE • Follows the shape of the eyes and depending on the contour that
• The main application surfaces for eye makeup products include the: you make, it could help make the eyes look either bigger or
outer layer of the eyelids (upper and lower), eyelashes, and the base smaller.
of the eyelashes. • Common ingredients: emulsions consisting of water, texturizers,
pigments, emollients, and emulsifiers.
o Often, polymers are also incorporated to increase the
viscosity and add texture to the formula as well as increase
the adhesiveness of the product to the eyelids.
• Product types: pencil, liquid, gel/crème, and cake forms

EYEBROW LINERS
• Designed to accentuate the natural line and natural hair, create
fuller brows, or cover areas that have no hair.
• They are the same with eyeliners and lip liners, but eyebrow liners
are usually harder.

EYEBROWS EYESHADOWS
o We use eyebrow liner to make the eyebrows thicker, to give • Designed to add depth and dimension to the eyes drawing
color (brown or black), and to outline the eyebrows. attention to the eye appearance or eye color.
• Product types: both pressed and loose powders (predominant
EYELIDS form), gel, crème, sticks, pencils
• Where we apply eyeshadow.
• Protect the eyeball from local injury. EYE MAKEUP REMOVERS
• Regulates the light reaching the eye (liniliit mata para di masilaw, dark • Designed to remove any eye makeup from the eyelashes and
environment à linalakihan yung mata), tear film maintenance, tear eyelids.
flow, and in distributes the tear film over the eye’s surface during • It is important that the ingredients are compatible with the
blinking. delicate skin of the eyelids and eye area.
o Regular blinking (20–30 blinks per minute) protects the eyes • Product types: creams, lotions, and remover pads
from drying out by evenly distributing the tear. Mechanical
irritants (such as grains of sand) evoke the blink reflex. DISADVANTAGES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
• The thinnest skin of the human body (<1mm) 1. Dyes used to perform eyelash and eyebrow tinting may cause severe
eye injuries: swelling of the eyelids, inflammation of the eyelids, eye
EYELASHES infections, and even blindness.
• Where we apply mascara (colored / dark colored), makes eyelashes o Eyebrow tinting or perming is coloring or shading or outlining the
thicker or extends it. eyebrows permanently, stays for a number of months.
• The base is where we apply eyeliner, to outline the eyes and to make o It should be known, that no color additives are approved by the
it pop more (common practice in Asians). FDA for permanent tinting of the eyelashes and eyebrows.
• Made up of terminal hair, just like the hairs in your scalp but they are o Users often use their hair colorants on their lashes and eyebrow
smaller and grows slower than your scalp hair. to match the color of their eyebrow and eyelashes to their hair.
• Help protect vision by defending the eyes against debris and signaling However, it should be kept in mind that the FDA does not allow
the eyelids to close when something gets to their close proximity. the use of hair dyes on body parts other than scalp hair.
• The upper lid has twice the number of follicles, resulting in 100-150
lashes in the upper lid, as compared to the lower eyelid. 2. Liquid mascara can easily become contaminated with bacteria, yeast,
o Mas makapal upper eyelashes. and molds.
• They don’t lose their color or turn to white as we grow old. For some o Not recommended for sharing mascaras because the dirt from
people pumuputi pero madalas hindi as we age. the skin could be passed on to you.
• Lack the erector pili muscle, this is responsible for the goosebumps. o Dermatologists recommend discarding mascara after 3 months
• Not influenced by hormones like androgens, so they do not fall out. of use. The FDA states that users should never use saliva to
moisten the dried-up mascara since bacteria from the mouth
The normal growth cycle for eyelashes is typically 5–6 months, in contrast may grow in the mascara and cause infection. Similarly, it warns
to the scalp follicles (6–7 years). This is one of the reasons that scalp hair is users not to share their mascara since bacteria from another
so much longer. Additionally, eyelashes grow much slower, 0.12mm/day on user’s skin might be hazardous to them.
average, which is about half the growth rate of scalp hair.
3. Artificial lashes are typically held in place by methacrylate-based
TYPES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS adhesives and these glues, as well as the solvent used to remove
• These are used to enhance, define the eyes, and some products are artificial eyelashes, can result in irritation, redness of the eyes, and
used to clean the sensitive areas of the eyes. allergic reactions.
o Eyelash extensions increase or extends the eyelashes and
MASCARA increase volume.
• Designed to produce an intense look and make the eyelashes o It should be known, however, that these glues can result in
thicker, longer, and darker. irritation, redness of the eyes, and allergic reactions. Similarly,
• It brings out the contrast between the iris (i.e., colored part of the solvent used to remove artificial eyelashes can also cause
human eyes) and the sclera (i.e., the white of human eyes) and allergic reactions.
highlights and dramatizes the eyes.
• Common ingredients: a blend of waxes, pigments, texturizers, 4. Various eye cosmetics may cause damage and soilage to contact
emulsifiers, and solvents. lenses as a result of contamination.
• Product types: liquid (coomon), cake o The Association of Contact Lens Manufacturers and the
American Optometric Association have recommendations on
the safe use of eye cosmetics for people with contact lenses.
EYELINERS
They recommend that contact lenses are inserted before
• Designed to help draw a precise line at the base of the eyelashes
applying eye makeup, because it will help see what the user is
to contour the eyes.
putting on to the eyelashes or eyelids and will also reduce the
risk of soiling the lenses. For similar reasons, they recommend

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 1

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 7: Decorative Cosmetic Products – Eye Makeup
that lenses be removed before removing eye makeup. They b. Liquid mascara
suggest staying away from eye makeup, cleansers, and other o AKA cream mascara
types of products, such as hand creams that can leave a greasy o Water-resistant mascara
film on the lenses. § O/W emulsions (two immiscible liquids that is more on the
o None of these groups suggests using lash-extending mascara water-soluble side) that contain waxes, polymers,
since the fibers may fake off and get into the eyes, causing pigments, and other ingredients.
irritation. They recommend that users avoid waterproof § Resists smearing and smudging but it does not entirely
mascara, which is difficult to remove and may stain contact prevent the penetration of water.
lenses. o Waterproof mascara
§ Anhydrous formulations (no water in the formulation)
COSMETIC QUALITIES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS § Made by dispersing waxes in non-aqueous solvents
• Attractive shades Ø These solvents provide a water- proofing effect and
• Non-allergenic and non-irritant contribute to the quick drying properties of the
• Homogeneous color when applied formulation at the same time. They provide a long-
• Good coverage wearing film on the lashes, which is resistant to
• Long-lasting effect water, smudging, and smearing
• Easy to apply and remove without hurting the delicate skin round the § No smudging or smearing when subjected to water or
eye. tears.
• Firm adherence to eyelids and eyelashes without being brittle and § The major disadvantage of this type of mascara is that the
tacky. waterproof property makes them difficult to remove from
• Water resistance the lashes and necessitates the use of special eye makeup
• Quick drying after application remover.
• Mascara: no clumping and flaking
TYPICAL INGREDIENTS
• Eyeshadow sticks and eyeliners: good gliding, not too soft to run into
the small lines around the eyes.
SOLVENTS
• Vehicle that helps deliver other ingredients
TECHNICAL QUALITIES OF EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS
• Water-resistant mascara
• Long-term stability
o Water is used as the primary solvent.
• Dermatological safety
o Examples: glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol
• Appropriate rheological properties
• Waterproofing solvents
• High retention of color intensity without any change in shade
o Quickly evaporate right after application and make the mascara
• Pressed powders: good pay-off
dry quicker.
• Pressed/bulk powders: free-flowing nature to enable easy filling of o Examples: hydrocarbons (isododecane, isoeicosane,
the pans or godets and prevent adherence to the punches. polyisobutene), silicones (cyclomethicone), paraffin distillates
(C8-9 isoparaffin)
TECHNICAL QUALITIES OF EYE MAKEUP REMOVERS
• Good tolerance, no irritation STRUCTURANTS
• pH equal to that of human tear (pH 6.5 – 7.6, almost neutral) • Also known as consistency ingredients.
• Isotonicity to avoid irritation • Provide an optimal, creamy texture for the formulations that glide
• Sufficient cleansing power to remove eye makeup without insisting onto the lashes.
too much • Examples: primarily waxes (beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax,
• Pleasant or neutral odor ozokerite wax, cetyl alcohol)
• Non-greasy
• Non-tacky THICKENERS AND STABILIZERS
• Dermatological safety • Increase the viscosity and provide a good texture to the formulations.
• Examples:
MASCARA o Waxes, clays, cellulose derivatives, gums, acrylates copolymers,
• Suspensions (solvents dispersed in a liquid base) pigments in a film- certain emulsifiers that have thickening properties (stearic acid)
forming (helps adhere the mascara formular to the eyelashes) o Texturizing agents (to provide a better texture) – talc, kaolin,
medium to which various ingredients may be added. silica, starch

TWO MAIN TYPES EMULSIFIERS

a. Cake mascara • Stabilize the two immiscible parts of the formulation.
o Is solid and has a waxy texture • Examples: nonionics (steareth -2, glyceryl stearate, isoceteth 20)
o Applied to the eyelashes by wetting an applicator brush, rubbing
it onto the cake to pick up the product, and then using the brush COLOR ADDITIVES
to transfer the product to the lashes. • Most frequently used colors include black, brown, and blue.
o Based on a soap (dull appearance) /wax (increase glossy • Very important components in every mascara formulation since
appearance) /pigment blend à little water sensitivity (not consumers buy mascara to color their lashes.
waterproof).
§ Ideal formula: low soaps and higher wax and other fatty FILM-FORMERS
material concentration to provide water resistance to the
• Act as adhesion promoters and enhance film formation on the lashes.
mascara film.
• Examples: cellulosic polymers, cellulose, gums, acrylates copolymers,
other types of polymers like polyvinylpyrrolidine (PVP, also known as
Basic Ingredients:
polyvidone, povidone), PVP/VA (vinyl alcohol) copolymer, PVA
• Soaps – glyceryl monostearate, triethanolamine stearate
(polyvinyl alcohol), carboxy methyl chitosan
• Emollients – isopropyl myristate, lanolin
• Waxes – carnauba wax and beeswax PRESERVATIVES
• Pigments and antioxidants • Provide protection against microbial contamination.
• Very important in water-based formulations because they are more
prone to microbial contamination.
• Examples: parabens, potassium sorbate, and phenoxyethanol

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 2

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 7: Decorative Cosmetic Products – Eye Makeup
ANTIOXIDANTS D.1 EYESHADOW
• Prevent rancidification of waxes and oils.
3.1 POWDER EYESHADOWS
CHELATING AGENTS • Are applied to the upper eyelid by lightly stroking a soft sponge-tipped
• Helps sequester minerals that might contaminate the formulation. applicator or a fine brush across the skin.
• Examples: ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives, • Both pressed and loose powders are primarily composed of powder
such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA ingredients, but pressed powders contain binders to hold the powder
particles together in a pressed form.
EMOLLIENTS
• Used in combination with waxes to provide the required consistency TYPICAL INGREDIENTS
for the formulations; also, for mascaras to not dry up quickly.
• Examples: jojoba oil, palm oil, castor oil, provitamin B5, panthenol FILLERS
• White powders
LASH-ELONGATING SYNTHETICS • Provide a bulk for the pigments.
• Provide the illusion of false lashes. • Contribute to the ship and consistency of powders and help dilute
• Can build on the lashes and extend beyond the natural end of the colors, making them less intensive.
lashes. • Examples: talc, magnesium stearate, starch, bismuth, oxychloride,
• Examples: rayon, silk, nylon fibers micas

TRENDS IN EYELASH ENHANCEMENT ABSORBENTS

• False lashes, lash tinting, eyelash perming • Dense powders that increase the overall density of the eyeshadow
• Longer, fuller eyelashes are frequently considered a desirable physical powders, making them easier to compress.
attribute by women. Therefore, there are a lot of products avail- able • Provide a matte finish surface effect.
today on the market, in addition to mascara, to enhance the • Absorbents can be used to absorb liquids, such as fragrance prior to
appearance of the eyelashes. mixing them into the eyeshadow powder.
• Absorb sweat and oil on the face and make the skin velvety.
False lashes intensify the length of the lashes. There are products available • Examples: kaolin, starch, and calcium carbonate (chalk)
as entire strips or individual groups to be adhered to the eyelids with a non-
permanent adhesive. Mascaras with false lash ingredients, such as nylon or BINDERS
rayon fibers, are also marketed. • Help the cake stick together in the godet.
• Add water repellency to the formula.
Lash tinting. This process is similar to semi-permanent hair coloring. The • Provide adherence to the skin.
lash tint is mixed with hydrogen peroxide, and the mixture is then applied • Often used as pigment dispersing agents and emollients.
to the eyelashes. During the development time, some of the dye penetrates • Examples:
into the lashes. The effects of tinting generally last for up to 6 weeks. An o Solid – starches
important fact that should be kept in mind is that hairdressing products o Liquid – mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, and silicone oils
should not be used for tinting the eyelashes since hair dyes contain strong
chemicals, which are not suitable for use in the eye area. PRESERVATIVES
• To protect it from any microbiological contamination.
Eyelash perming is another example of today’s trends. Perming provides a
long-lasting effect similar to scalp hair perming. First, eyelashes are rolled COLORANTS
around a thin cotton tube. Then they are coated with a perming lotion, • Examples: inorganic colorants (iron oxides, ultramarines)
which is a high-pH lotion that penetrates into the lashes and breaks disulfide
bonds holding the keratin protein strands inside the lashes together. After CONTINUATION OF EYESHADOW
about 10–15min, a neutralizing product is applied to the lashes to reduce
the high pH (neutralize) and reform bonds in their new position after the D.2 CREAM EYESHADOWS
cotton tube is removed. • “cream-to-powder” eyeshadows
• Anhydrous emulsions based on oils thickened with either clay gelling
agents or waxes.
EYELINERS
• Can also be water-based emulsions containing oils, emollients, and
• Applied after the eyeshadow
thickeners to provide appropriate rheological behavior for products.
• Solvents used: either water or quickly evaporating hydrocarbons or
2.1 Liquid Eyeliners
silicon oils.
• Contain similar types of raw materials as mascaras but are less viscous.
• Applied with a fine pen-like applicator D.3 GEL EYESHADOWS
• Polymer thickeners – enough viscosity to avoid running and to dry fast • Water-free and water-based formulations, containing appropriate
to a smooth, strong film. solvents, thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, preservatives, and
pigments.
2.2 Pencil Eyeliners (Soft Crayon Pencils
• The leads are blends of waxes, hardened fats, oils, pigments, and D.4 EYESHADOW STICKS
pearls. • Are based on waxes, oils, and texturizing ingredients into which the
o Higher levels of hard, high-melting point waxes result in harder colors are dispersed.
leads.
• Provide creamy texture and glide easily onto the eyelids.
• Eye liners are softer since the skin around the eyes is more sensitive
than that of the lips. EYE MAKEUP REMOVERS
3 Main Types
EYEBROW LINERS 1. Cleansing milks based on O/W emulsions.
• Prepared in a range of colors: from black through brownish-black and 2. Cleansing waters in the form of aqueous solutions with ultra-mild
brown to blue. surfactants.
• Composition is similar to the of lip pencils – higher proportion of waxes 3. Cleansing pads and wipes impregnated with a makeup remover
to increase the hardness. solution.
• The skin under the eyebrow is not considered a highly sensitive area
à eyebrow liners can be harder.

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 3

Cosmetic Product Development (Lecture)
Unit 7: Decorative Cosmetic Products – Eye Makeup
Special Considerations:
• Eye makeup removers should contain appropriate ingredients to
establish the same pH as makeup removers should be equivalent to
that of human tears, which is slightly alkaline, pH =7.4 (the usual range
is from 7.3 to 7.7).
• Should contain tonicity agents, if needed, to establish isotonicity with
tears (i.e., the saline concentration of the product should be equal to
that of the tears) to avoid discomfort and irritation.
• The osmotic pressure in tears is equivalent to 0.9% sodium chloride
solution.
• It should be noted that the eyes can usually tolerate solutions
equivalent to 0.5–1.8%. However, the optimal value should be kept in
mind when formulating such products.

TYPICAL QUALITY PROBLEMS WITH EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS

1. Breaking
o A typical quality problem of pressed powders, such as pressed
eyeshadows.
o Problems: air remaining in the powder mixture, inappropriate
breaking force.
o Solution: the pressing machine has to be adjusted to let the air
escape before the compression process is complete.
2. Smudging
o Common in liquid formulations
o Problem: high oil or glycerin concentrations
o Solution: use volatile silicones (when used it gives a powdery
effect à nagd-dry product agad / lesser tendency to smudge) as
base instead of oils, decrease glycerin concentration
3. Sticking
o Sticking of the powder blend to the pressing tools may result
from inadequate lubrication.
o Problem: inadequate lubrication
o Solution: properly designing the formulation
4. Drying up
o Means that a hard cake forms at the bottom of the container.
5. Poor pay-off
o When you apply a certain amount, it does not produce enough
color.
o Inappropriate or inadequate amount of colorant
6. Separation of emulsions
7. Microbiological contamination
8. Clumping
9. Rancidification
o Demands the use of antioxidants to be prevented.

EVALUATION OF MAKEUP PRODUCTS

1. Cake strength – drop test, penetration test
2. Flow properties of powders
3. Bulk density and tapped density
4. Compressibility of Powder Mixtures
5. Glazing and Pay-off – Pressure testing
6. Water resistance
7. Transfer resistance
8. Dispersion of pigments and color uniformity

SAFETY CONCERNS IN EYE MAKEUP PRODUCTS

• Microbiological contamination can occur in a number of cosmetic
products, therefore, all cosmetics should be adequately preserved to
prevent microbiological insults
• Eye irritation testing is of crucial importance in the case of eye
cosmetics to make sure they will not cause any allergy or other
irritation to consumers.
o Draize eye irritancy test – used to assess eye irritation caused by
various chemicals
§ A substance is placed in one eye, with the other eye serving as
the control. The eyes are evaluated after 1 h and then at 24-h
intervals for up to 14 days. Sometimes the eyes are continuously
evaluated for up to 3 weeks or more.
§ The level of irritation to the eyes is scored numerically by
observation of the three major tissues of the eye (cornea,
conjunctiva, and iris).

Audrey Macapagal and Cyra Tolentino (PHARM 2-A) 4