MILITARY SCIENCE (MS-1)

Name of Presenter
seamanship

SCOPE OF PRESENTATION
MARLINSPIKE

KNOTS, BENDS AND HITCHES

DECK SEAMANSHIP

PAINTING

MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Marlinespike Seamanship is the art of handling and working all kinds of fiber and
wire rope. It includes every variety of knotting, splicing, serving, and fancy
work.
Use line for tying up during mooring and docking and for rigging aloft or over the
side during painting details.
Use wire rope during replenishment of supplies and for highline transfers. These
are only a few of the jobs that require to use line or wire rope; there are many
more.
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Rope is manufactured from wire, fiber, and combinations of the two. Fiber
rope or line, as it is commonly called, is fashioned from natural or synthetic
fibers.

In the Navy, sailors refer to fiber rope as line, whereas they refer to wire rope
as rope, wire rope, or just wire. More clearly defined, a line is a piece of rope,
either fiber or synthetic, that is in use or has been cut for a specific purpose,
such as a lifeline, heaving line, or lead line.
Rope
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Line currently used in the Navy may be three-strand line, braided, or

plaited. In three-strand line, fibers are twisted into yarns or threads, the yarns
are twisted in the opposite direction into strands, and the strands are twisted in
the first direction, making line. Taking the process further, lines are twisted
into cable. Line can have various numbers of strands, and the direction the strands
are twisted determines the lay of the line. That is, if the strands are twisted to
the right, the line is said to be right-laid.
Construction of Line
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Coil right-laid line right-handed or clockwise. Flake down braided and plaited
line.
Keep line from touching stays, guys, or other standing rigging.
When surging line around bitts, take off enough turns so the line does not jerk
but surges smoothly.
If line becomes chafed or damaged, cut and splice. A good splice is safer than a
damaged section. However, do not cut a line without your supervisor's permission.
Do not lubricate the line.
Whip all line ends.
Use and Care of Line
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Inspect natural fiber line frequently for deterioration. Open the lay and inspect
the fibers. White, powdery residue indicates internal wear.
Dragging a line over sharp or rough objects cuts or breaks the outer fibers. When
line is dragged on the ground, other particles are picked up and eventually work
into the line, cutting the inner strands.
Natural fiber line exposed to the atmosphere deteriorates about 30 percent in 2
years from weathering alone. Natural fiber line received from supply that is 3
years old should be returned to supply noting uneconomical to use.
Use and Care of Line
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Line 1 1/2 inches or less in circumference is called small stuff. Its size
specification is governed by the number of yarns it contains (called threads in
this instance).
Small Stuff
USE OF SMALL STUFF
Round line is three-strand, right-laid tarred hemp is used for seizing
and servings on ships where neatness is required.
Sail twine is small stuff laid up right-handed by machine, like regular
line, but it is not much larger than fishing line is used for servings when a
fancier job than can be done with marline is desired.
Cod line is the light, white line formerly used in hammock clews (lines
for suspending a hammock) is used for decorative purposes.
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Never leave the end of a line dangling loose without a whipping to prevent it from
unlaying. The end of line will begin to unlay of its own accord. To prevent
fraying, you should put a temporary plain whipping on with anything, even a rope
yarn.
Securing Ends
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

The bowline is a good knot with many uses. It is used whenever a loop is
needed, such as in making a temporary eye in a mooring line.
According to a Seaman's use of the term knot, the line usually is bent to itself.
The knot forms an eye or knob or secures a cord or line around an object, such as a
package.
Knots
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Bending To a Hook, Ring or Spar

You can use a hitch to secure a line to a hook, ring or spar. We will describe
various hitches in this section. A hitch differs from a knot in that it ordinarily
is tied to a ring, around a spar or stanchion, or around another line. It is not
tied back on itself to form an eye or to bend two lines together.
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

To make an eye splice with manila or synthetic lines, you must untwist the strands
in the end of your line anywhere from 4 inches to 2 feet, depending on the size of
the line, and splice them into the standing part of the line by tucking the unlaid
strands from the end into the standing part.
Eye Splice
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP

Lines are short spliced together when a slight enlargement of the diameter of the
line is of no importance. Slings are made of pieces of line, with their own ends
short spliced together.
Short Splice
MARLINSPIKE SEAMANSHIP
Class 1 Knots - knots in the end of line, used in fastening a line upon itself or
around an object
Overhand Knot – used in making other knots. Never used alone
Bowline - a temporary eye in the end of a line. It will not slip or jam.
Running bowline – a convenient form of running an eye. Formed by making a bowline
over its own standing part.
Bowline on a bight – used to sling a man over the side. It will not slip and
constrict him
French Bowline – has the same purpose as the bowline on a bight. It gives two
loops that can be adjusted to fit.
FOUR CLASSES OF KNOTS

Class 1 Knots - knots in the end of line, used in fastening a line upon itself or
around an object
Spanish bowline - Can be used wherever it is desirable to have two eyes in the
line. Its primary purpose however is, as a substitute for the boatswains chair.
Sheepshank – used to shorten a rope in three parts, and half hitch each part
around the bight of the other two parts.
Cats Paw - a double loop formed by twisting two bights of a rope. The hook of a
tackle is passed through them.
Figure Eight – used to prevent the end of line form unreeling through a block or
eyebolt.
Black Wall Hitch – used to secure a line to a hook quickly
FOUR CLASSES OF KNOTS

Class 2 Knots - Knots for binding two lines together

Square or reef knot - used for tying reef points and bending lines together
Granny knot – usually mistaken for a square knot. It will slip under strain.
Sheet or becket bend (single) – used for bending line to becket and for bending
lines of different sizes together.
Sheet or becket bend (double) - same use as the sheet or becket bend (single)
Two bowlines – a safe and convenient way of bending two hawsers together
Carrick Bend – used to bend two hawsers together – it noll not slip or jam, and no
matter how long the hawsers are in the water it can e easily untied
Reeving line bend – used to bend together two lines that must reeve around a
capstan or which drum.
FOUR CLASSES OF KNOTS

Class 3 Knots - knots that secure a line to a ring or spar (hitches or bends)
Fisherman’s Bend - used to secure a rope to a toupee or a hawsers to the ring of a
anchor
Tolling hitch - used to bend a line to a spar or to the standing part of another
line
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches –used to secure the end of a line made around any
other object.
Clove or Ratline Hitch – convenient for making a line fast to a spar, the standing
part of another line, or a bollard.
Half hitch or two half hitch – used to secure a line temporarily around any object
Stopper hitch – used to check a running line
Cats paw – used to secure a line to a hook.
FOUR CLASSES OF KNOTS

Class 4 Knots - knots used to give finished to the end of a line and to prevent
unreeling or for ornamental purposes.
Wall knot - the reverse of a crown knot. It is never used alone, but always as a
part of a line. There are various combination of wall and crown knot.
Crown knot the simplest and best-known knots in the end of a line. It is never
used alone, but always as a part of some other knot.
Manrope - combination of a double crown and wall not. An ornamental knot worked
in the end of gangway (handrails made of line)
Mathew Walker - the navy standard knot for the end of hammock jackstay. The three
strands are bought back together, so they can be laid up again.
FOUR CLASSES OF KNOTS

Wire Rope
The basic unit of wire-rope construction is the individual wire made of steel
or other metal in various sizes. These wires are laid together to form strands.
Wire rope is made of annealed steel, traction steel, or improved plow steel.
The basic metal may be plain or galvanized.
The number of wires in a strand varies according to the purpose for which the
rope is intended. A number of strands are laid together to form the wire rope
itself.
Wire rope is designated by the number of strands per rope and the number of
wires per strand. Thus, a 6 X 19 rope has 6 strands with 19 wires per strand, but
has the same outside diameter as a 6 X 37 wire rope, which has 6 strands with 37
wires of much smaller size per strand.
WIRE ROPES

In general, rigging is a large part of deck seamanship. The ship's standing

rigging consists of lines, wires, turnbuckles, and other gear supporting and
attached to the stacks, the masts, and the topside structure. Running rigging
includes the rigging used in hoisting and lowering heavy weights or in positioning
and operating movable deck gear.
DECK SHIMANSHIP

Ground Tackles
Equipment used in anchoring and mooring with anchors and buoy mooring with chain
and appendages.
The following are defined as ground tackle:
Anchor chain, wire rope, synthetic line, or combinations of these materials, when
used with anchors
Appendages consisting of connecting shackles or links, detachable links, pear-
shaped links, end links, bending shackles, mooring shackles, mooring swivels,
detachable-link tool sets, clear hawse pendants, dip ropes, chain stoppers,
wrenches for chain stoppers, outboard swivel shots, chain cable jacks, mooring
hooks, chain hooks, anchor bars, and anchor buoys.
DECK SHIMANSHIP

Types of Anchor
Anchors used in the Navy today are grouped according to type. The most common types
used are stockless anchors, lightweight (LWT) or stock-incrown anchors, and two-
fluke balanced-fluke anchors. Stock anchors (old-fashioned) and mushroom anchors
are no longer specified as a part of Navy ship ground tackle.
DECK SHIMANSHIP

1. Stockless Anchor
Three designs of stockless anchors are in use on naval ships: commercial, standard
Navy, and the Mark 2.
TYPES OF ANCHOR

2. Lightweight Anchor
Two types of lightweight anchors are used on Navy ships: the Mk 2 LWT and the wedge
block LWT anchor.
TYPES OF ANCHOR

3. Two-Fluke Balanced-Fluke Anchor

The two-fluke balanced-fluke anchor is used for anchoring some surface ships
and the newer submarines and is normally housed in the bottom of the ship. This
anchor is used on certain combatant-type surface ships in place of a bower anchor,
which could interfere with the ship's sonar dome.
TYPES OF ANCHOR

4. Stock Anchor
Old-fashioned, or stock, anchors have been abandoned by large merchant and Navy
ships because they are extremely cumbersome and difficult to stow.
TYPES OF ANCHOR

5. Mushroom Anchor
Mushroom anchors are shaped like a mushroom with a long narrow stem serving as the
shank.
ring
shank
cup
TYPES OF ANCHOR

Navy anchor chain of the flash butt welded type is the Navy standard for new ship
constructions and replaces die-lock chain as required for back fit. An anchor chain
is made up of many parts besides common links and requires a variety of equipment
and fittings to use and maintain the chain. The following descriptions will
acquaint you with the details of anchor chain and some of the equipment associated
with using and maintaining the chain.
CHAIN AND APPENDAGES

1. Detachable Links
2. Chain Swivels
CHAIN AND APPENDAGES
30

3. Chain Stopper
4. Mooring Shackle
CHAIN AND APPENDAGES
31

5. Mooring Swivels
6. Clear Hawse Pendants
CHAIN AND APPENDAGES
32

Windlasses are installed on board ships primarily for handling and securing the
anchor and chain used for anchoring the ship and for handling anchor chain used for
towing the ship.
ANCHOR WINDLASS
33

Deck fittings are the various devices attached to the hull that assist in handling
the ship.
DECK FITTINGS
34

The protection of metal surfaces is the chief objectives of painting done

aboardship. Paints and varnishes are also used to decorate surfaces.
The only effective protection against rust is good paint properly applied to metal
surface that have been carefully prepared for painting.
PAINTING
35

Preparing Surfaces for Painting

Even the most expensive paint is of little value if it is applied on an insecure
foundation.
Loose old paint, rush, dirt, dust, moisture of grease on any surface will prevent
new paint from adhering to.
Before painting steel, it is necessary to remove all scale, grease, rust and
moisture. Rust spreads even if it is covered by paint.
Painting rusty surface causes paint to flake off.
Rust and old paint may be removed in several ways depending on the thickness of the
coating, thickness of steel underneath, and materials stored on either side of
steel plating.
PAINTING
36

Tools for Removing Rust and Old Paint

Scraper – used for removing rust on plating surfaces.
Wire Brush – used as welded areas.
Sand Paper – used as abrasive to polish.
Chipping Hammer – used for thick rust.
Scaling Hammer or Jitterbug – never used in plating less than ¼ inch in thickness.
Rotary Power Brush – it is operated by compressed air.
Power Sander – it is also operated by compressed air.
Rotary Chipping Tool.
Blow Torch – satisfactory but should be hot enough to blister the paint and to burn
wood underneath or to discolor paint.
PAINTING
37

Application of Paint for Brush

Hold brush firmly by the handle not by the stock. If held by the stock, hands
become covered with paint and may cause poisoning especially if small cuts are
exposed and lead paints are used.
Hold brush at right angle to the surface with the end of the bristles alone
touching and lift it clear to the surface when starting the return stroke.
Do not completely fill the brush with paint. Dip only the end of the bristles into
the paint. Do not charge the brush with paint until the preceding charge has
become sufficiently exhausted.
Apply paint with long stroke parallel to the grain of the wood.
Cross the work by laying on the paint over a small section with parallel strokes.
Then cross the first application with parallel strokes at right angle to the first
one, all laying off (final) should be lengthwise.
For vertical surfaces, work should be laid off vertically.
For overhead surfaces, ceiling panels should be laid off fore
and aft and the beams athwartships.
Keep paint well-mixed while work is proceeding.
Best result can be obtained by applying two coats of
thin or medium body paint than one coat of heavy paint
PAINTING
38

Types of Paint Brushes and Uses

Flat Paint Brush - large surface
Oval Sash and Trim Brush - small surface
Fitch Brush - small and very small surfaces
Oval Varnish Brush - rough
Flat Varnish Brush - medium work
French Bristle Brush - high grade work
Lettering Brush -small surface & large work
Painter Duster- cleaning work
PAINTING
39

Care of Brushes
Before using, rinse brushes with paint thinner and soak in boiled oil
for about 48 hours to make them more flexible and easier to clean.
Care after use:
Provide a container with compartments for stowing different types of brushes for a
short period.
The bristles must not touch the bottom as they eventually become distorted.
Brushes which are to be used the following day should be cleaned with proper
thinner and placed in the proper compartment of the container.
Brushes not to be used soon should be cleaned in thinner, washed with soap
and water and hang to dry. After drying, wrapped in waxed paper
and stowed flat.
Do not leave brush soaking in the water because it will cause the bristles to
separate into hunches, flares and become bushy.
PAINTING
40

Proper Cleaners for Brushes with Different Finishes

Oil base paints and varnishes -- turpentine or mineral spirits
Water based paint--------------- water
Shellac----------------------------- alcohol
Lacquer --------------------------- lacquer thinner
Enamel Paint ---------------------- paint thinner
PAINTING
41

Complete ventilation of the compartment is essential to ensure immediate removal

of vapors and paint dusts.
Personnel using spray gun should wear clothing which fits smartly or tightly at
the ankles, neck and wrist.
Approved respirator must be worn and parts of the body not protected by clothing
should be covered with petrolatum (Vaseline).
Smoking, open flames, welding, grounding of spray equipment, chipping, and other
spark-producing operations are prohibited in the compartment when spraying is in
progress.
Explosion proof portable lights should be used.
Bulbs must not be replaced in a compartment or tank being painted until flammable
or explosive vapors have been removed.
PAINTING SAFETY PRECAUTION
42

Painted compartments long closed without ventilation must be entered with caution.
Paint and varnish removers should not be used by persons having open cuts on their
hands, unless rubber gloves are used.
Paint and varnish removers should not be used in confined spaces because some have
dangerous anesthetic property.
If paint and varnish removers touch the skin and begin to burn, wash off with cold
water immediately and consult the medical officer.
Never use turpentine, spirits or other thinners for cleaning your hands after work
because they can be absorbed through the skin pores. Use hand soap and water only.
PAINTING SAFETY PRECAUTION
43

[email protected]
Sundalong guro FB page
END OF LECTURE